MASTER 

NEGATIVE 
NO.  94-82080 


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Author: 


U.S.  Tariff  board 


Title: 


Wool  and  manufacturers 

of  wool    2V.  in 

Place: 

Washington,  D.C 

Date: 

1912 


mmpymmmmammmKHmm 


MASTER   NEGATIVE   * 


COLUMBIA  UNIVERSITY  LIBRARIES 
PRESERVATION  DIVISION 

BIBLIOGRAPHIC  MICROFORM  TARGET 


ORIGINAL  MATERIAL  AS  FILMED  -    EXISTING  BIBLIOGRAPHIC  RECORD 


-.■ 


Business 
D360.7 
Un395 


U.  S.  Tariff  board. 

Wool  and  manxtfactures  of  wool.  Message  of 
tlie  President  of  the  ^Tnited  States,  transmit- 
ting a  report  of  the  Tariff  board  on  schedule 
K  of  the  Tariff  law.  Washington,  Govt,  print, 
off.,  1912. 

2  V.  in  1.  illus.,  fold,  maps,  diagrs,, 
tables.   (62d  Cong.,  2d  sess.  House.  Docu- 
ment, no.  342) 


CONTfNUEO  ON  NEXT  CARD 


BUSINESS 

D360.7 
Un395 


U.  S.  Tariff  board.  Wool  and  manufactures 
of  wool.  1912.  (Card  2) 

Contents. — v.  1  (pts.  1-2)  Message  of  the 
President.  Letter  of  submittal,  with  summary 
of  findings.  Glossary.  Baw  wools  production 
and  shrinkage.— V.  2.  (pts.  3-5  and  Index) 
Manufacturing  costs,  tops,  yarn,  and  cloth. 
Ready-made  clothing.  Wages  and  efficiency  of 
labor  and  machinery  in  the  United  States. 


RESTRICTIONS  ON  USE: 


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BIBLIOGRAPHIC  IRREGULARITIES 

MAIN  ENTRY:    U.S.  Tariff  board 

Wool  and  manufacturers  of  wool 


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62d  Congress  ) 
2d  Session    J 


HOUSE  OF  REPRESENTATIVES 


Kent   Kail 
^giiunbiii-yiiivftHy 

\    No.^?2 


WOOL  AND  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL 


I 


MESSAGE  OF  THE 
PRESIDENT  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES 

TRANSMITTING  A 

REPORT  OF  THE  TARIFF  BOARD 

ON 

SCHEDULE  K 

OF  THE  TARIFF  LAW 


IN  TWO  VOLUMES 

VOLUME  I  (Parts  1  and  2) 

Message  of  the  President 

Letter  of  Submittal,  with  Summary  of  Findings 

Glossary 

Raw  Wool:  Production  and  Shrinkage 


Ifidcx  In  Volume  II 


Dfx'Ember  21,  1911.— Referred  to  the  Committee  on  Ways  and  Means 
and  ordered  to  be  printed  with  illustrations 


WASHINGTOK 
GOVERNMENT  PRINTING  OFFICE 

1912 


yj.j^m.j'^ 


3-0  /t' 

'  /         /2  Of  ^ 


r.^J^A^f.^^^L^'^i  0/  i?tfpre»m^af im  (fA«  SermU  concurring),  That  there  be 

IhTpifiH'SS?  ^^/;L^°°^*  9?Pje8  of  House  Document  No.  342,  beTng  the  message  of 

SchedXi  o   tl\.riff  w'^if^"'  transmitting  a  report  of  the  Tariff  BoaPf  on 

H vp«  «nH  «  n^  1     -^^f  ^?^'  ^^'^  P^'P^®^  ^°'  '^e  use  of  the  House  of  Representa- 
tives and  8,000  copies  for  the  use  of  the  Senate.  ^°^"ia 

Agreed  to  March  1, 1912. 


-  »  • 


CO 
en 


rr; 


CONTENTS. 


Message  of  the  President • 

Letter  of  submittal '.'..'.'.'.1'/, 7 

Parti:  Glossary  on  Schedule  K.     

Section  1.  Paragraphs  relating  to  raw  materials og 

Section  2.  Paragraphs  relating  to  manufactures 101 

Section  3.  Sheep  Industry  in  leading  countries joc 

Section  4.  Wool  manufactures  in  leading  countries  .         21» 

Appendix  A.  Duties  in  Austria-Hungary,  Belgium,  Canada,  Fr'ance', "Ger- 
many, Italy,  Japan,  Russia,  and  Switzerland 265 

Part  2^^AW  W^'  ^^°^P^^^*^^^*^  statement  of  United  States  duties,  1789-1909; ."  277 

Section  1.  Market  grades  and  comparative  production  costs  _  297 

Section  2.  Woo  shrinkages  and  methods  of  levying  duties  on  raw  wool ' '. '.  379 

feection  6.  Wools  of  Class  3 ^jj 

Addenda  ( 1 ) .  Special  report  on  types"of  British  sheep"  'and  "cost's'of  "main- 
tenance—Sheep  m  Canada 441 

Addenda  ( 2^ .  Special  report  on  the  wool  industry  "o*f Tus'traii'a" 459 

Addenda  (3).  Notes  on   flock  husbandry  in  New  Zealand  and"A"f"ric"a"A 

.  ^ape  <^oionies ^gg 

Addenda  (4  .  Notes  on  wool  growing  in  South  America 517 

States  ^^^  farming  in  Eastern,   Southern,  and  Mid"d"le'"w"es"t 

Addenda  (6).  Notes  on  s'heep  ranching  in"westera"u"nited"sta"t"e"s 591 

Addenda  (7).  Mohair  production  in  United  States '.'.'.'.'.'.[  609 

32080°— H.  Doc.  342,  62-2,  vol  1 1  ,„ 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 


Facing  I'm^'c. 

Wool  in  various  forms  (Illustration  1) 67 

Tf  pes  of  shoddy  (Illustration  2) 69 

Vdlue  of  products  of  wool  manufactures  in  United  States,  1860-1910  (Chart  1 ) .  86 

Consumption  of  cotton  in  wool  manufactures,  1869-1910  (Chart  2) 95 

Raw  wool,  cotton,  rags,  and  shoddy  and  wool  waste  and  noils  used  by  all 

branches  wool  manufactures,  1860-1910  ( Chart  3) 97 

Worsted  products  (Illustration  3) 104 

Basis  of  difference  between  carded  wool  and  worsted  goods  (Illustration  4) 113 

Number  of  sheep  in  United  States,  1890-1910,  classified  ( Chart  4 ) 1 . . .  200 

Importation  of  class  1,  2,  and  3  wools,  shoddy,  rags,  wool  waste,  and  noils, 

1890-1911  (Chart  5) 202 

Raw  wool,  latest  available  statistics  ( Diagram  K2) 299 

Map  showing  districta  in  western  United  States  visited  by  agenta  of  Tariff 

R)ard 303 

Standing  of  States  with  reference  to  number  of  sheep,  1890-1910  f  diagram) . .  305 
Steady  increase  in  mutton  supplies  and  diminished  marketing  of  cattle  and 

hogs  for  45  years  (diagram) 344 

Diagram  showing  freights  on  grease  wool  by  sea  and  railroad  to  Boston,  Mass. .  353 

Map  of  the  world  showing  origin  of  class  3  wools 413 

Lincoln  shearling  ram — Kent  or  Ronmey  Marsh  ram 443 

Blackface  mountain  ram— Cheviot  ram 444 

Cotswold  shearling  ram — Oxford  Down  ram 446 

Southdown  shearling  ram — Shropshire  S-shear  ram 448 

Hampshire  Down  ram — Dorset  horn  ram 450 

Special  Australian  stud  ewes  ( under  1 J  years) — ^Australian  merino  ram  that 

fioldfor$6,000 401 

Patagonian  estancia  house — Crossbretl  Romney  sheep  in  South  America 519 

Home  of  an  estanciero  in  Chubut,  Argentina— II aulingp^elts  in  South  America.  522 
Shearing  sheds  and  dipping  vat,  South  America — ^Frigorilico  on  Straits  of 

Magellan 526 

Delaine  0  type  merino  ram — Rambouillet  ram 545 

American  merino,  type  "A" — American  merino,  type  "  B  " 548 

Arizona  wool  awaiting  shipment  at  railroad— "Fleet"  of  camp  wagons  laid 

up  for  summer  in  Idaho 593 


MESSAGE. 


To  the  Senate  and  House  of  Representatives: 

In  my  annual  message  to  Congress,  December,  1909,  I  stated  that 
under  section  2  of  tlie  act  of  August  5,  1909, 1  had  appointed  a  Tariff 
Board  of  three  members  to  cooperate  with  the  State  Department  in 
the  administration  of  the  maximum  and  minimum  clause  of  that 
act,  to  make  a  glossary  or  encyclopedia  of  the  existing  tariff  so  as  to 
render  its  terms  intelligible  to  the  ordinary  reader,  and  then  to 
investigate  industrial  conditions  and  costs  of  production  at  home 
and  abroad  with  a  view  to  determining  to  what  extent  existing 
tariff  rates  actually  exemplify  the  protective  principle,  viz,  that 
duties  should  be  made  adequate,  and  only  adequate,  to  equalize  the 
difference  in  cost  of  production  at  home  and  abroad. 

I  further  stated  that  I  believed  these  investigations  would  be  of 
^eat  value  as  a  basis  for  accurate  legislation,  and  that  I  should  from 
time  to  time  recommend  to  Congress  the  revision  of  certain  sched- 
ules in  accordance  with  the  findings  of  the  board. 

In  the  last  session  of  the  Sixty-first  Congress  a  bill  creating  a  per- 
manent Tariff  Board  of  five  members,  of  whom  not  more  than  three 
should  be  of  the  same  political  party,  passed  each  House,  but  failed 
of  enactment  because  of  slight  differences  on  which  agreement  was 
not  reached  before  adjournment.  An  appropriation  act  provided 
that  the  nermanent  Tariff  Board,  if  created  by  statute,  should 
report  to  Congress  on  Schedule  K  in  December,  1911. 

Therefore,  to  carry  out  so  far  as  lay  witliin  my  power  the  purposes 
of  this  bill  for  a  permanent  Tariff  Board,  I  appointed  in  March,  1911, 
a  board  of  five,  adding  two  members  of  such  party  affihation  as 
would  have  fulfilled  the  statutory  requirement,  and  du-ected  them  to 
make  a  report  to  me  on  Schedule  K  of  the  tariff  act  in  December  of 
this  year. 

In  my  message  of  August  17,  1911,  accompanying  the  veto  of  the 
wool  bill,  I  said  that,  in  my  judgment,  Schedule  K  should  be  revised 
and  the  rates  reduced.  My  veto  was  based  on  the  ground  that,  since 
the  Tariff  Board  would  make,  in  December,  a  detaikd  report  on  wool 
and  wool  manufactures,  with  special  reference  to  the  relation  of  the 
existing  rates  of  duties  to  relative  costs  here  and  abroad,  public  policy 
and  a  fair  regard  to  the  interests  of  the  producers  and  the  manufac- 
turers on  the  one  hand  and  of  the  consumers  on  the  other  demanded 
that  legislation  should  not  be  hastily  enacted  in  the  absence  of  such 
information;  that  I  was  not  myself  possessed  at  that  time  of  adequate 
knowledge  of  the  facts  to  determine  whether  or  not  the  proposed  act 
was  m  accord  with  my  pledge  to  support  a  fair  and  reasonable  pro- 
tective pohcy;  that  such  legislation  might  prove  only  temporary  and 
mttict  upon  a  great  industry  the  evils  of  continued  uncertainty. 
m  ^^  lierewith  submit  a  report  of  the  Tariff  Board  on  Schedule  K. 
Ihe  board  is  unanimous  in  its  findings.     On  the  basis  of  these  findings 


4  BEPORT  OF  TABIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K, 

I  now  recommend  that  the  Congress  proceed  to  a  consideration  of  this 
schedule  with  a  view  to  its  revision  and  a  general  reduction  of  its  rates. 

The  report  shows  that  the  present  method  of  assessing  the  dutj  on 
raw  wool — this  is,  hy  a  specific  rate  on  the  erease  pound  (i.  e., 
unscoured) — operates  to  exclude  wools  of  high  shrinkage  in  scouring 
but  fine  quality  from  the  American  market  and  thereby  lessens  the 
range  of  wools  available  to  the  domestic  manufacturer;  that  the  duty 
on  scoured  wool  of  33  cents  per  pound  is  prohibitory  and  operates  to 
exclude  the  importation  of  clean,  low-priced  foreign  wools  of  inferior 
grades,  which  are  nevertheless  valuable  material  for  manufacturmg, 
and  wliich  can  not  be  imported  in  the  grease  because  of  their  heavy 
shrmkage.  Such  wools,  if  imported,  might  be  used  to  displace  the 
cheap  substitutes  now  in  use. 

To  make  the  precedmg  para^aph  a  little  plainer,  take  the  instance 
of  a  hundred  pounds  of  lirst-class  wool  imported  under  the  present 
duty,  which  is  11  cents  a  pound.  That  would  make  the  duty  on  the 
hundred  pounds  $11.  The  merchantable  part  of  the  wool  thus 
imported  is  the  weight  of  the  wool  of  this  hundred  pounds  after  scour- 
ing. If  the  wool  shrinks  80  per  cent,  as  some  wools  do,  then  the  duty 
in  such  a  case  w^ould  amount  to  $11  on  20  pounds  of  scoured  wool. 
This,  of  course,  would  be  prohibitorv.  If  the  wool  shrinks  only  50 
per  cent,  it  would  be  $11  on  50  pounds  of  wool,  and  this  is  near  to  the 
average  of  the  great  bulk  of  wools  that  are  imported  from  Australia, 
which  is  the  pnncipal  source  of  our  imported  wool. 

These  discrimmations  could  be  overcome  by  assessing  a  duty  in  ad 
valorem  tenns,  but  tliis  method  is  open  to  the  objection,  first,  that  it 
increases  admmistrative  difficulties  and  tends  to  decrease  revenue 
through  undervaluation;  and,  second,  that  as  prices  advance,  the  ad 
valorem  rate  increases  the  duty  per  pound  at  the  time  when  the  con- 
sumer most  needs  rehef  and  the  proclucer  can  best  stand  competition ; 
while  if  prices  decline  the  duty  is  decreased  at  the  time  when  the  con- 
sumer is  least  burdened  by  the  price  and  the  producer  most  needs 
protection. 

Another  method  of  meetmg  the  difficulty  of  taxing  the  grease  pound 
is  to  assess  a  specific  duty  on  grease  wool  in  terms  of  its  scoured  con- 
tent. This  obviates  the  chief  evil  of  the  present  system,  namely,  the 
discrimination  due  to  different  shrinkages,  and  thereby  tends  greatly 
to  equalize  the  duty.  The  board  reports  that  this  method  is  feasible 
in  practice  and  could  be  administered  without  great  expense.  The 
scoured  content  of  the  wool  is  the  basis  on  which  users  of  wool  make 
their  calculations,  and  a  duty  of  tliis  kind  would  fit  the  usages  of  the 
trade.  One  effect  of  this  method  of  assessment  would  be  that,  regard- 
less of  the  rate  of  duty,  there  would  be  an  increase  in  the  supply  and 
variety  of  wool  by  making  available  to  the  American  market  wools 
of  both  low  and  fine  quality  now  excluded. 

The  report  shows  in  detail  the  difficulties  involved  in  attempting 
to  state  in  categorical  terms  the  cost  of  wool  production  and  the  great 
differences  in  cost  as  between  different  regions  and  different  types  of 
wool.  It  is  found,  however,  that,  taking  all  varieties  in  account,  the 
average  cost  of  production  for  the  whole  American  clip  is  higher  than 
the  cost  in  the  chief  competing  country  by  an  amount  somewhat  less 
than  the  present  duty. 

The  report  shows  that  the  duties  on  noils,  wool  wastes,  and  shoddy, 
which  are  adjusted  to  the  rate  of  33  cents  on  scoured  wool  are  pro- 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K.  § 

hibitory  in  the  same  measure  that  the  duty  on  scoured  wool  is  pro- 
hibitory. In  general,  thev  are  assessed  at  rates  as  high  as,  or  higher, 
than  the  duties  paid  on  the  clean  content  of  wools  actually  imported. 
They  should  be  reduced  and  so  adjusted  to  the  rate  on  wool  as  to  bear 
their  proper  proportion  to  the  real  rate  levied  on  the  actual  wool 
imports. 

The  duties  on  many  classes  of  wool  manufacture  are  prohibitory 
and  greatly  in  excess  of  the  difference  in  cost  of  production  here  and 
abroad. 

This  is  true  of  tops,  of  yarns  (with  the  exception  of  worsted  yams 
of  a  very  high  grade),  and  of  low  and  medium  grade  cloth  of  heavy 
weight. 

On  tops  up  to  52  cents  a  pound  in  value,  and  on  yarns  of  65  cents 
in  value,  the  rate  is  100  per  cent  with  correspondingly  higher  rates 
for  lower  values.  On  cheap  and  medium  grade  cloths,  the  existing 
rates  frequently  run  to  150  per  cent  and  on  some  cheap  goods  to  over 
200  per  cent.  This  is  largely  due  to  that  part  of  the  duty  which  is 
levied  ostensibly  to  compensate  the  manuiacturer  for  the  enhanced 
cost  of  his  raw  material  due  to  the  duty  on  wool.  As  a  matter  of  fact, 
this  compensatory  duty,  for  numerous  classes  of  goods,  is  much  in 
excess  of  the  amount  needed  for  strict  compensation. 

On  the  other  hand,  the  findings  show  that  the  duties  which  run  to 
such  high  ad  valorem  equivalents  are  prohibitory,  since  the  goods  are 
not  imported,  but  that  the  prices  of  domestic  fabrics  are  not  raised 
by  the  luU  amount  of  duty.  On  a  set  of  1-yard  samples  of  16  English 
fabrics,  which  are  completely  excluded  by  the  present  tariff  rates,  it 
was  foind  that  the  total  fomgn  value  y/es  $4L84;  the  duties  which 
would  have  been  assessed  had  these  fabrics  been  imported,  $76.90;  the 
foreign  value  plus  the  amount  of  the  duty,  $118.74;  or  a  nominal  duty 
of  183  per  cent.  In  fact,  however,  practicaUy  identical  fabrics  of 
domestic  make  sold  at  the  same  time  at  $69.75,  showmg  an  enhanced 
price  over  the  foreign  market  value  of  but  67  per  cent. 

Although  these  duties  do  not  increase  prices  of  domestic  goods  by 
anything  like  their  full  amount,  it  is  none  the  less  true  that  such 
prohibitive  duties  ehminate  the  possibUity  of  foreign  competition, 
even  in  time  of  scarcity;  that  they  form  a  temptation  to  monopoly 
and  conspiracies  to  control  domestic  prices;  that  they  are  much  in 
excess  of  the  difference  in  cost  of  production  here  and  abroad;  and 
that  they  should  be  reduced  to  a  point  which  accords  with  this 
principle. 

The  findings  of  the  board  show  that  in  this  industry  the  actual 
manufacturing  cost,  aside  from  the  question  of  the  price  of  materials, 
is  much  higher  in  this  country  than  it  is  abroad;  that  in  the  making 
of  yarn  and  cloth  the  domestic  woolen  or  worsted  manufacturer  has 
in  general  no  advantage  in  the  form  of  superior  machinery  or  more 
efficient  labor  to  offset  the  higher  wages  paid  in  this  country.  The 
findings  show  that  the  cost  of  turning  wool  into  yarn  in  this  country 
IS  about  double  that  in  the  leading  competing  country  and  that  the 
cost  of  turning  yarn  into  cloth  is  somewhat  more  than  double. 
Under  the  protective  policy  a  great  industry,  involving  the  welfare 
of  hundreds  of  thousands  of  people,  has  oeen  established  despite 
these  handicaps. 

In  recommending  revision  and  reduction  I  therefore  urge  that 
action  be  taken  with  these  facts  in  mind,  to  the  end  that  an  important 
and  established  industry  may  not  be  jeopardized. 


V 


6 


BEPOKT  OP  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


The  Tariff  Board  reports  that  no  equitable  method  has  been  found 
to  levy  purely  specific  duties  on  woolen  and  worsted  fabrics  and  that, 
excepting  for  a  compensatory  duty,  the  rat©  must  be  ad  valorem  on 
Buch  manufactures.  It  is  important  to  realize,  however,  that  no  flat 
ad  valorem  rate  on  such  f&Drics  can  be  made  to  work  fairly  and 
effectively.  Any  single  rate  which  is  high  enough  to  equalize  the 
difference  in  manufacturing  cost  at  home  and  abroad  on  highly 
finished  goods,  involving  sucn  labor,  would  be  proliibitory  on  cheaper 
goods,  in  which  the  labor  cost  is  a  smaller  proportion  of  the  total 
value.  Conversely,  a  rate  only  adequate  to  equalize  this  difference 
on  cheaper  goods  would  remove  protection  from  the  fine-goods  manu- 
facture, the  increase  in  which  has  been  one  of  the  strilving  features 
of  the  trade's  development  in  recent  years.  I  therefore  recommend 
that  in  any  revision  the  importance  of  a  graduated  scale  of  ad  valorem 
duties  on  cloths  be  carefuflv  considered  and  applied. 

I  venture  to  say  that  no  legislative  body  has  ever  liad  presented  to 
it  a  more  complete  and  exhaustive  report  than  tliis  on  so  difficult  and 
complicated  a  subject  as  the  relative  costs  of  wool  and  woolens  the 
world  over.  It  is  a  monument  to  the  thoroughness,  industry,  impar- 
tiality, and  accuracy  of  the  men  engaged  in  its  making.  They  were 
chosen  from  both  political  parties,  but  nave  allowed  no  partisan  spirit 
to  prompt  or  control  their  inquiries.  They  are  unanimous  in  tlieir 
finainffs.  I  feel  sure  that  after  the  report  has  been  printed  and  studied 
the  value  of  such  a  compendium  of  exact  knowledge  in  respect  to  tliis 
schedule  of  the  tariff  will  convince  all  of  the  wisdom  of  making  such  a 
board  permanent  in  order  that  it  may  treat  each  schedule  of  the  tariff 
as  it  has  treated  this  and  then  keep  its  bureau  of  information  up  to 
date  with  current  changes  in  the  economic  world. 

It  is  no  part  of  the  function  of  tlie  Tariff  Board  to  propose  rates  of 
duty.  Their  function  is  merely  to  present  findings  of  fact  on  which 
rates  of  duty  may  be  fairly  determined  in  the  Light  of  adeouate  knowl- 
edge in  accord  with  tlie  economic  policy  to  be  followed.  This  is  what 
the  present  report  does. 

The  findings  of  fact  by  the  board  show  ample  reason  for  the  revision 
downward  of  Schedule  K,  in  accord  with  the  protective  principle,  and 
present  the  data  as  to  relative  costs  and  nnces  from  which  may  be 
determined  what  rates  will  fairly  equalize  the  difference  in  production 
costs.     I  recommend  that  such  revision  be  proceeded  with  at  once, 

Wm.  H.  Taft. 
The  White  House,  December  20,  191L 


Iwvivt   Hal 
^ttHiliia  UnivtfSlljr 


LETTER  OF  SUBMITTAL. 


The  PREsroENT: 


Office  of  The  Tariff  Board, 

Treasury  Building, 
Washington f  December  20 y  1911, 


Pursuant  to  your  instructions  to  report  to  you  in  December,  1911, 
on  Schedule  K  of  the  tariff  law  C'Wool,  and  manufactures  of"),  we 
have  the  honor  to  submit  the  following  report,  which  consists  of  five 
parts,  as  follows: 

Part  I.  Analysis  and  Glossary  of  Schedule  K  in  the  present  tariff 
act,  together  with  a  statistical  survey  of  the  woolen  industry  in 
leading  countries. 

Part  II.  Report  on  Raw  Wool,  Production  and  Shrinkage. 

Part  III.  Report  on  Manufacturing  Costs. 

Part  IV.  Report  on  Ready-made  Clothing  and  Wearing  Apparel. 

Part  V.  Report  on  Wages  and  Efficiency  of  Labor  and  Machinery 
in  the  United  States. 

GLOSSARY. 

In  Part  I  the  existing  tariff  act,  as  it  relates  to  wool  and  manufac- 
tures of  wool,  is  analyzed  paragraph  by  paragraph.  Under  each 
head  is  a  description  of  the  diflferent  articles  on  which  duties  are 
levied  by  the  paragraph  in  question,  with  a  brief  explanation  of  the 
process  of  manufacture  and  the  relation  of  each  commodity  to  the 
trade;  an  analysis  in  detail  of  the  present  duties  and  method  of 
assessment  with  a  statement  of  duties  in  ad  valorem  terms.  It  pre- 
sents statistics  as  to  production,  imports,  and  exports  of  each  com- 
modity, together  with  a  section  on  the  relation  of  the  various  branches 
of  wool  manufactures  to  raw  materials ;  and  an  explanation  of  the  origin 
and  theory  of  compensatory  duties.  To  this  is  added  a  statistical 
section,  which  shows  the  character  and  localization  of  the  industry  in 
the  leading  countries  of  the  world  and  the  movement  of  the  world's 
commerce  in  wool  and  manufactures  of  wool. 


RAW   WOOL. 


Part  II,  the  Report  on  Raw  Wool,  covers  an  extended  study  of  the 
general  conditions  surrounding  the  production  of  raw  wools,  not  onlv 
m  the  United  States  but  in  Australasia,  South  America,  the  South 
African  Cape,  Great  Britain,  and  other  countries.  Relative  costs  of 
production  have  been  developed  as  closely  as  possible  in  the  case  of 
the^  leading  clips  and  comparative  shrinkages  established  of  the 
various  important  varieties  of  raw  wool. 

Special  agents  gathered  full  information  as  to  the  expenses  attaching 
to  sheep  farming  and  ranching  at  home  and  abroad.     This  part  of  the 


8 


EEPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOAKD   ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


investkation  was  begun  in  1910  and  covered  m  the  United  Stateis  173 
countils  in  19  States.  In  all,  nearly  1,200  wool  growers  were  visited 
by  the  agents  of  the  Tariff  Board.  Special  agents  were  sent  to  Aus- 
tralia and  South  America,  as  well  as  to  England  and  the  C^ontinent. 

The  board  obtained  from  the  books  of  a  large  number  of  miUs,  both 
foreim  and  domestic,  the  actual  yield  of  clean  wool  as  compared  with 
the  grease  weights  of  the  more  important  grades  m  common  use  in 
tie  woolen  and  worsted  manufacturing  industry, 

MANUFACTURING   COSTS. 

Part  III,  the  Report  on  Manufacturing  Costs,  includes  a  study 
of  manufacturing  costs  in  the  United  States  and  the  leading  for- 
eign countries.  This  section  of  the  report  is  based  upon  compre- 
hensive detailed  cost  figures  secured  at  the  mills  by  the  board  and 

^*^In^this*investigation  the  number  of  American  mills  visited  by 
agents  of  the  board  from  which  properly  verified  information  was 
obtained  was  174.  These  mills  are  situated  m  20  different  States. 
They  represent  over  46,000  looms,  1,900,000  producing  spindles, 
and  109,000  employees.  They  are  not  only  representative  of  the 
industry,  but  comprise  in  looms  and  employees  ^T'^'^a},  ""^  tuI 
productive  capacity  of  the  industry  in  the  Umted  States  The 
cloth-making  mills  range  in  size  from  a  23-loom  estabhshment  to  one 
running  2,700  looms.  Of  the  mills  making  yarn  exclusively,  the 
rant^e  was  from  4,400  spindles  to  46,000.  ,  .    -.    * 

On  tops  and  worsted  yarns  actual  cost  figures  for  a  mven  penod  of 
production  were  obtained,  and  a  detailed  analysis  made  of  items  of 
cost  by  processes.  In  the  case  of  cloths  a  collection  of  samples  was 
made,  representing  the  chief  fines  of  goods  m  the  market,  and  careful 
cost  computations  were  made  at  the  mills,  from  their  records,  on 

individual  samples.  ,  ,      .,     i        i  •  u 

Detailed  cost  schedules  were  prepared  by  the  board  covenng  each 
process  in  manufacturing,  and  these  were  filled  m  by  the  agents  of  the 
board  in  consultation  with  the  cost  experts  of  the  mill.  In  all  cases  a 
detailed  statement  was  taken  of  "general  e:jq)enses  and  fixed 
charc^es  "  for  a  year's  period,  together  with  the  total  pay  roU  (operating 
wages)  for  the  same  period.  Overhead  expenses  were  then  prorated 
according  to  the  proportion  of  this  labor.  These  schedules  were  ac- 
companied by  similar  schedules  covering  tops  and  yarns  which  are 
filled  out  in  the  same  manner.  The  report  includes  detailed  returns 
of  this  character  on  55  different  fabrics.  .     j  j  x^ 

The  European  work  on  wages  and  cost  of  production  extended  to 
England,  France,  Germany,  Austria,  and  Belgium.  Estimates  of  the 
cost  of  production  on  specific  domestic  fabncs  taken  from  the  I  nited 
States  were  secured  from  various  manufacturers  m  ii^ngland,  yer- 
many,  and  France,  and  the  weavers'  rates  of  pay  per  yard  of  cloth 
secured  for  these  countries  and  for  Belgium.  . 

Wage  scales  covering  the  piece  rates  paid  weavers,  spmners,  and 
other  classes  of  labor  were  secured  from  all  of  the  countnes  visited  by 
agents  of  the  Tariff  Board,  and  these  are  tabulated  or  otherwise  pre- 
sented in  the  report.  .  ,        ^^^^o+;^^ 

Rates,  wages,  output,  or  production  per  machine  and  per  operative 
were  secured  for  weavers,  spinners,  carders,  and  many  others. 


EEPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


9 


It  is  believed  that  this  is  the  first  successful  attempt  to  couple 
foreign  rates  of  wages  and  earnings  with  the  real  efficiency  or  speed 
of  work  in  order  to  show  actual  labor  costs. 

Weavers'  rates  per  yard  and  the  number  of  yards  produced  per 
weaver  or  per  loom  are  given  on  all  the  sample  fabrics,  and  efficiency 
data  furnished  for  a  large  amount  of  other  fully  described  fabrics, 
showing  looms  attended,  speed  of  looms,  weavers'  rates  per  yard,  and 
yards  produced. 


READY-MADE    CLOTHING. 


Part  IV.  The  report  on  the  ready-made  clothing  industry  covers 
figures  representing  net  annual  sales  of  between  $80,000,000  and 
$90,000,000,  and  some  60  different  estabfishments.  The  houses 
visited  were  in  the  five  leading  centers  of  this  manufacture — New 
York,  Chicago,  Philadelphia,  Rochester,  and  Baltimore. 

The  inquiry  went  into  the  question  of  the  manufacturer's  costs  for 
his  business  as  a  whole,  and  also  for  typical  garments.  The  chief 
aim  kept  in  view  was  to  ascertain  the  importance  of  the  cost  of  cloth 
and  of  other  woolen  materials  in  the  manufacture  of  clothing. 

This  section  of  the  report  traces  the  wool  from  the  back  of  the  sheep 
to  the  back  of  the  consumer,  showing  the  relative  increase  in  cost  and 
price  at  each  stage  of  the  process. 

WAGES   AND   EFFICIENCY. 

Part  V,  the  report  on  wages  and  efficiency  of  labor  and  machinery, 
includes  a  study  of  employees  in  the  woofen  and  worsted  industry, 
covering  country  of  birth,  sex  and  age,  rates  of  wages  and  earnings, 
efficiency  of  employees,  and  efficiency  of  machinery,  including  the 
proportion  of  foreign-made  machinery  used  in  this  country,  the  age 
of  machines  in  use,  and  detailed  figures  on  the  variations  in  labor 
cost  per  pound  in  the  manufacture  of  tops  and  yarns. 

For  11,080  looms  there  was  kept  under  the  direction  of  represen- 
tatives of  the  board  a  loom  record  for  each  day  of  the  actual  time  the 
weavers  were  operating  the  looms  and  the  number  of  the  measured 
yards  of  cloth  woven  during  the  period  for  which  the  record  was  kept. 
The  speed  of  each  loom  and  the  number  of  picks  per  inch  in  each 
piece,  or  cut,  woven,  of  each  style  number,  with  weight  and  complete 
details  of  warp  and  filling  yarns,  ends,  shuttles,  and  harness  were 
secured  for  a  total  of  1,912,681  yards. 


It  was  impossible  within  the  time  limit  set  to  make  a  detailed 
inquiry  into  the  cost  of  production  here  and  abroad  of  all  of  the  great 
number  of  special  articles  included  under  the  provisions  of  Schedule 
K.  In  many  cases  this  would  not  be  necessary.  The  relative  con- 
ditions surrounding  the  manufacture  of  wool  in  general  here  and 
abroad  may  be  determined  from  the  conditions  prevailing  in  the  main 
lines  of  the  industry.  These  are  presented  in  this  report,  as  outlined 
above.  They  cover  raw  wool,  yarns,  cloths,  dress  goods,  ready-made 
clothing,  and  certain  other  articles  of  wearing  apparel. 

It  proved  impracticable  to  carry  out  at  one  and  the  same  time  an 
indennite  number  of  separate  cost  inquiries  and  bring  them  all  to 
conclusion  at  a  given  date.     For  this  reason  we  are  not  able  to  include 


10 


REPORT  OF   TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


in  the  present  report  data  as  to  the  cost  of  underwear  and  carpets, 
regarding  which  our  mvestigations  are  not  sufficiently  advanced  to 
make  the  results  practicaDv  useful.  In  Part  I  of  the  report,  however, 
an  analysis  is  made  of  eacn  paragraph  of  the  schedule  explaining  the 
character  of  the  articles  included,  the  process  of  manufacture,  the 
operation  of  existing  duties,  both  specific  and  ad  valorem,  tlie 
statistics  of  production,  imports  and  exports,  and  the  relation  of  the 
different  articles  to  the  whole  industry  of  wool  manufacture. 

Findings  of  the  Investigation. 

WOOL  costs. 

The  result  of  the  raw-wool  investigation  establishes  the  fact  that  it 
costs  more  to  grow  wool  in  the  United  States  than  in  any  other 
country;  that  the  merino  wools  required  in  such  great  volume  by  our 
mills  are  the  most  expensive  of  all  wools  produced;  that  the  highest 
average  cost  of  production  of  such  wool  in  the  world  is  in  the  State  of 
Ohio  and  contiguous  territory;  and  that  the  lowest  average  cost  en 
similar  wool  is  in  Australia. 

It  is  not  possible  to  state  in  exact  terms  the  actual  cost  of  producing 
a  pound  of  wool  considered  by  itself,  for  the  simple  reason  that  wool 
is  but  one  of  two  products  of  the  same  operation.  That  is  to  say, 
flocks  produce  both  fleeces  and  mutton — products  entirely  dissimilar 
in  character  and  yet  produced  as  the  result  of  the  same  expenditure 
for  forage  and  for  labor.  The  board  has  deemed  it  best,  therefore, 
for  the  purposes  of  this  inquiry,  to  treat  fleeces  as  tlie  sole  product 
and  charge  up  against  their  production  the  entire  receipts  from 
other  sources.  This  method  gives  an  accurate  return  so  far  as  the 
general  results  of  flock  maintenance  are  concerned;  results  which 
are  comparable  as  between  various  sheep-growing  regions. 

In  order  that  results  from  the  different  sections  and  from  different 
countries  might  be  more  comparable,  the  item  of  interest  on  invest- 
ment— which  varies  from  4  to  6  per  cent  in  Austraha  and  from  8  to 
10  per  cent  in  our  Western  States — was  left  for  consideration  in  con- 
nection with  profits.  For  a  similar  reason  the  actual  production  cost 
of  harvested  crops  fed  to  flocks  was  used  instead  of  the  market  value 
of  same.  On  this  account  the  expense  charges  shown  are  materially 
lower  than  those  commonly  quoted  in  the  industry. 

Figured  in  tliis  manner,  the  board  finds: 

That  after  crediting  the  flock  with  receipts  from  all  sources  other 
than  wool,  the  latter  product,  in  the  case  of  the  fine  merino  wools  of 
the  United  States,  is  going  to  market  with  an  average  charge  against 
it  of  not  less  than  12  cents  per  pound,  not  including  interest  on  the 
investment. 

That  the  fine  wools  of  the  Ohio  region  are  sold  bearing  an  average 
charge  for  production  of  19  cents  per  pound. 

That  in  the  States  east  of  the  Missouri  River  wool  production  ia 
incidental  to  general  farming.  Here  producers,  with  tne  exception 
of  certain-named  districts,  lay  more  stress  upon  the  output  of  the 
mutton  than  of  wool,  and  in  such  cases  the  receipts  from  the  sale  of 
sheep  and  lambs  ordinarily  cover  the  flock  expense,  leaving  the  wool 
for  profit.  Tlie  position  of  the  fine- wool  producers,  however,  not 
only  of  the  Ohio  region,  but  of  the  far  West,  ia  radically  different. 


1 


EEPOET  OF   TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  E:.|^^ 


ai 


That  in  the  western  part  of  the  United  States,  %mer 


C^lnniblA  Universitar 

,  wnera^oout  tjjiro-     ' 

thirds  of  the  sheep  of  tne  country  are  to  be  found,  thrf-^fin^  and 
''fine  medium"  wools  carry  an  average  charge  of  at  least  11  cents  per 
pound,  interest  not  included. 

That  if  account  is  taken  of  the  entire  wool  production  of  the 
country,  including  both  fine  and  coarse  wools,  the  average  charge 
against  the  clip  is  about  9}  cents  per  pound. 

That  in  Soutn  America  the  corresponding  charge  is  between  4  and  5 
cents  per  pound. 

That  in  New  Zealand  and  on  the  favorably  situated  runs  of  Aus- 
tralia it  seems  clear  that  at  the  present  range  of  values  for  stock 
sheep  and  mutton  the  receipts  from  other  sources  than  wool  are 
carrying  the  total  flock  expense.  So  that  taking  Australasia  as  a  whole 
it  appears  that  a  charge  of  a  very  few  cents  per  pound  lies  against  the 
great  clips  of  that  region  in  the  aggregate.  While  the  board  can  not 
undertake  to  name  an  exact  figure  in  that  case,  it  is  certain  that  the 
Australasian  costs  at  large  fall  materially  below  the  average  South 
American. 

That  in  the  western  United  States  the  capitalization  per  head  of 
sheep  (exclusive  of  land)  is  $5.30^  upon  which  a  gross  profit  of  6.2  per 
cent  was  realized  during  the  12  months  under  review.  The  interest 
rate  in  that  region  ranges  from  8  to  10  per  cent  per  annum. 

'Hiat  the  labor,  forage,  and  necessary  miscellaneous  expenses  in  the 
western  United  States  exceed  $2  per  head  per  annum  as  against  an 
estimated  cost,  covering  the  same  elements  of  expense,  of  less  than 
$1  in  Australia  and  about  $1.15  per  head  in  South  America. 

WOOL  DUTIES. 

The  board  finds  that  the  present  method  of  levying  the  duties  upon 
raw  wool  is  defective  in  that  it  operates,  by  reason  of  the  varying 
shrinkages  of  the  different  kinds  or  wool,  to  prevent  the  importation 
of  many  heavy  conditioned  sorts  which,  if  imported,  would  add  sub- 
stantially to  tne  stock  of  sound  staple  avaflable  for  the  manufacture 
of  woolen  fabrics. 

That  there  is  no  vand  reason  for  the  discrimination  that  now  exists 
as  between  the  wools  of  Class  I  (merino  and  crossbred)  and  Class  II 
(English,  medium  and  luster),  and  that  these  two  classes  could 
properly  be  consolidated. 

That  the  present  duty  of  33  cents  per  pound  on  scoured  wool  is 
prohibitive,  preventing  effectually  the  importation  of  clean,  low- 
priced  foreign  wools  of  the  lower  grades  that  would  be  exceedingly 
useful  in  the  manufacture  of  woolens  in  this  country,  and  if  so  used 
might  displace  in  large  measure  the  cheap  substitutes  now  so  fre- 
quently employed  in  that  industry.  The  fact  that  such  cheap  wools 
are  of  such  heavy  shrinkage  that  they  can  not  be  imported  in  an 
unscoured  state  emphasizes  all  the  more  the  prohibitive  character  of 
tli^present  scoured-pound  duty. 

That  an  ad  valorem  rate  is  open  to  graTe  objection  from  the  point 
of  view  of  administration  and  revenue,  in  the  case  of  a  crude,  bulky 
commodity  like  wool,  produced  in  many  remote  regions  and  finding 
Its  way  into  the  markets  through  so  many  various  channels  of  trade. 

That  furthermore  an  ad  valorem  rate  would  give  a  high  duty  per 
pound  when  prices  are  high;  that  is,  when  the  consumer  most  needs 


12 


EEPOKT  OF   TABIFP  BOABD  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


1 


EEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


13 


relief  and  the  producer  is  most  able  to  bear  competition.  With  a  low 
price  of  wool  the  duty  per  pound  would  be  low:  that  is,  at  the  time 
when  the  consumer  has  less  need  of  competing  wools  and  the  producer 
is  least  able  to  bear  competition. 

That  the  chief  objections  to  the  present  rate  on  the  grease  pound 
could  be  met  by  levying  some  form  of  specific  duty  based  on  the  clean 
or  scoured  content  of  the  wool  imported. 

That  the  necessary  macliinery  for  testing  at  ports  of  entry  could  be 
installed  promptly  and  cheaply  and  could  be  maintained  efficiently 
at  small  expense. 

SHRINKAGES. 

The  rates  of  Schedule  K  are  based  upon  the  assumption  that  wools 
in  the  grease  shrink  an  average  of  66 §  per  cent.  While  it  is  true  that 
considerable  quantities  of  wool  do  shrink  that  amount,  the  average 
is  well  below  that  figure.  Certain  very  heavy  wools  grown  at  the 
South  African  Cape  and  in  certain  districts  of  Australia,  South  Amer- 
ica, and  the  Western  United  States  shrink  as  high  as  70  to  75  per 
cent. 

From  actual  examination  of  domestic  miU  records  it  is  found  that 
the  average  shrinkage  of  the  fine  merino  wools  now  being  imported 
into  the  United  States  from  Australia  and  South  America  is  about 
48  per  cent. 

SimHar  wools  from  the  same  countries  finding  their  way  to  Euro- 
pean  markets  shrink  considerably  more,  which  fict  reflects  the  exclu- 
sion  of  the  heavier  conditioned  wools  from  our  markets. 

That  the  average  shrinkage  of  our  fine  western  wools  is  67  per  cent, 
the  average  shriiiage  for  all  the  wools  of  that  region  being  62  per 
cent. 

That  the  average  shrinkage  of  Ohio  and  other  fine  domestic  fleeces 
is  60  per  cent. 

That  the  average  shrinkage  of  the  lower  grade  domestic  sorts  is 
about  45  per  cent. 

That  the  national  average  shrinkage  would  fall  between  55  per 
cent  and  60  per  cent. 

That  Soutn  American  crossbred  wools  now  being  imported  shrink 
an  average  of  about  33  per  cent  and  the  Australian  crossbreds  about 
30  per  cent. 

That  the  Class  II  (English  washed)  wools  shrink  as  a  rule  from  18 
to  30  per  cent. 

In  tnis  connection  it  should  be  borne  in  mind  that  the  merino  and 
crossbred  fleeces  now  entering  our  market  have  been  as  a  rule 
'* skirted"  or  trimmed  before  shipment,  so  that  their  yield  cf  clean 
wool  is  higher  than  would  otherwise  be  the  case. 

NOU.S  AND   WASTES. 

PracticaUy  no  wool  wastes  or  shoddy  are  imported  under  the  pres- 
ent  rates,  which  are,  in  effect,  prohibitory.  The  same  duties  are 
applied  to  wastes  of  an  entirely  oifferent  character.  No  comparison 
as  to  the  cost  of  production  of  such  products  can  be  made.  Noils  and 
wastes  are  merely  by-products  of  the  worsted  industry,  and  their 
values  bear  in  the  main  a  certain  definite  relation  to  the  value  of  the 


' ^k 


scoured  wool  from  which  they  come.  The  present  duties  on  these 
products  are  in  theory  adjusted  to  the  actual  rates  of  duty  paid  on 
the  scoured  content  of  the  wools  imported,  but  are  not  so  adjusted 
in  fact. 

For  example,  the  duty  on  soft  wastes  is  nearly  half  as  high  again 
as  the  duties  levied  on  the  scoured  content  of  wools  actually  imported 
under  present  conditions,  and  the  rate  of  duty  on  noOs  is  practically 
equal  to  the  rate  of  duty  actually  paid  on  the  scoured  content  of 
imported  wool. 

BAGS   AND  SHODDY. 

The  duties  on  rags  and  shoddy  are  practically  prohibitory.  The 
duty  on  shoddy  bears  no  relation  to  the  cost  of  manufacture.  A 
much  lower  duty  would  equalize  the  difference  in  cost  of  production 
to  the  shoddy  manufacturer.  Shoddy,  however,  competes  with  wool, 
and  the  duty  acts  as  protection  to  the  woolgrower.  Although  all  shod- 
dies except  the  very  finest  are  of  much  less  value  than  scoured  wool, 
the  present  duty  is  higher  than  the  duty  on  the  scoured  content  of  the 
wool  actually  imported.  As  a  matter  of  fact,  however,  woolen  rags 
are  exported  very  largely  from  the  United  States  and  American  shoddy 
is  imported  into  Great  Britain  in  considerable  quantities. 

WOOL   MANUFACTURES. 

The  present  duty  practically  excludes  tops  from  importation  and 
all  yarns  except  worsted  yarns  of  the  greatest  fineness  and  value. 
The  same  is  true  of  low-grade  and  medium  cloth  for  men's  wear,  with 
the  possible  exception  of  very  light-weight  goods.  A  considerable 
quantity  of  the  fine  and  expensive  fabrics  are  imported.  In  the  fiscal 
year  1911  these  paid  a  duty  amounting  to  94.17  per  cent  ad  valorem. 
These  did  not  constitute  3  per  cent  of  the  total  consumption  of  the 
United  States.  Women's  dress  goods,  weighing  4  ounces  or  under 
per  yard,  are  stiU  imported  in  large  quantities,  and  these  paid  in  1911 
an  average  duty  of  102  per  cent. 

On  fabrics  there  are  two  duties,  a  specific  dutjr  levied  on  weight 
and  an  ad  valorem  duty.  The  specific  duty  theoretically  compensates 
the  manufacturer  for  the  extra  cost  of  his  raw  material  due  to  the 
duty  on  wool.  This  compensatory  duty  is  now  fixed  at  a  point  intended 
to  be  adequate  to  compensate  tiie  manufacturer  using  nothing  but 
foreign  wool  of  66§  per  cent  shrinkage.  Practically  no  wool  of  such 
heavy  shrinkage  is  imported  under  the  present  tariff  rates.  Conse- 
quently the  specific  duty  is  more  than  compensatory  for  manufac- 
turers using  wools  of  lighter  shrinkage. 

This  is  true  to  a  much  greater  extent  in  the  case  of  fabrics  made 
partly  or  whoUy  of  shoddy,  wool  waste,  and  cotton.  An  attempt  to 
adjust  the  compensatory  duty  to  the  character  of  the  material  used  in 
the  fabric  is  made  by  tne  present  tariff  act,  which  fixes  the  compen- 
satory duty  at  33  cents  a  pound  for  goods  worth  not  more  than  40 
cents  a  yard  as  against  44  cents  per  pound  for  goods  worth  more  than 
40  cents  a  yard.  The  lower  rate,  however,  for  the  cheaper  goods  is 
equally  in  excess  of  the  actual  compensation  needed  as  is  the  higher 
rate  on  medium  goods.  The  result  is  that  on  low-grade  goods  a 
specific  duty  of  33  or  44  cents  is  sometimes  in  excess  of  the  total  value 


14  BEFOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOAKD  ON  SCHEDUI^  K. 

0f  the  raw  material  in  this  country.  Consequently  the  nominal  duty 
on  certain  cheap  fabrics,  if  imported— which  is  impossible  under  the 
existing  duty— is  commonly  as  high  as  150  per  cent  ad  valorem,  and 
in  some  cases  even  over  200  per  cent. 

Much  of  the  objection  to  the  present  compensatory  duty  as  giving 
excessive  compensation  would  be  removed  by  puttmg  the  duty  on 
wool  on  the  scoured  basis  instead  of  on  the  grease  pound.  The 
compensatory  duty  in  that  case  could  be  adjust^  to  the  actual  wool 
content  in  the  case  of  all-wool  goods,  at  least,  and  would  be  entirely 
independent  of  the  disputed  pomt  of  grease-wool  shrinkages.  As  m 
the  present  act,  it  could  be  made  proportionately  lower  for  goods 
containing  other  materials  than  wool  by  means  of  a  separation 
according  to  value. 

On  cheap  and  medium  grades  of  cloth  for  men's  and  women's  wear, 
excepting  light-weight  dress  goods,  the  combined  specific  and  ad 
valorem  duties  are  much  in  excess  of  the  difference  in  the  cost  of 
production  here  and  abroad. 

RELATIVE  PRICES. 

On  the  other  hand,  prices  in  this  country  on  the  fabrics  j  ust  referred 
to  are  not  increased  by  the  full  amount  of  the  duty.  A  collection  of 
representative  samples  was  made  in  England  of  goods  ranging  from 
those  which  can  not  be  imported  at  all  to  those  which  are  imported 
continually.  These  were  then  matched  with  a  collection  of  samples 
of  American-made  cloths  which  were  fairly  comparable,  and  the 
mill  prices  compared  for  the  same  date.  It  is  found  that  on  goods 
entirely  excluded  the  nominal  rates  of  duty  would  reach  an  ad  valorem 
rate  of  150  or  even  over  200  per  cent,  but  that  the  American  fabric  is 
actually  sold  in  the  market  at  from  only  60  to  80  per  cent  higher  than 
similar  goods  sold  abroad. 

On  16  samples  of  foreign  goods,  for  instance,  none  of  which  are 
imported,  the  figures  are  as  follows: 

Total  of  foreign  prices - ; • ^J-  ^ 

Duties  which  would  have  been  aaeeased  had  they  been  unported i  J «    ? 

Forei<pi  price,  plus  the  duty,  if  imported lio.  74 

Actual  aomestic  price  of  similar  fabrics 69.  75 

Thus,  though  the  nominal  duties  on  such  fabrics  equal  184  per  cent, 
the  actual  excess  of  the  domestic  price  over  the  foreign  price  on  similar 
fabrics  of  this  kind  is  about  67  per  cent.  This  is  the  result  of  do- 
mestic competition.  .  .  . 

At  the  present  time  the  industry  m  general  is  on  a  competitive  basis. 
Certain  specialties  may  be  produced  in  limited  quantities  by  par- 
ticular firms  which  can  not  be  duplicated  successfully  by  their  com- 
petitors. This  might  be  the  result  of  secret  processes  or  of  some 
special  skill  in  desigmng  or  finishing.  This  may  mean  a  wide  margin 
ol  profit  per  unit  of  product  in  individual  cases.  It  should  also  be 
noted  that  even  in  the  case  of  standard  goods  the  industrv  is  one 
peculiarly  dependent  on  fashion,  and  the  manufacturer  who  happns 
to  succeed  in  anticipating  the  shifting  public  demand  may  sell  liis 
goods  upon  a  wide  margin  over  the  cost  of  manufacture  and  make 
large  profits.  Under  ordinary  circumstances  the  average  manufac- 
turer will  find  that  he  can  sell  a  part  of  his  output  with  a  good  margin 


< 

I 


BEPOBT  OF   TARIFF  BOAED  OK  SCHEDUlI^.^''^*^*   Lal»ytory 

Kent    Mattr 

of  profit,  and  that  another  part  which  does  not  meet  t}fe|ittWft*^^nW.Kff*^*y 
win  have  to  be  sold  close  to  the  cost  price  or  even  below^«vv  Vork 

As  to  the  productive  capacity  of  the  country  in  cloth  making  to  meet 
the  domestic  demand,  there  is  at  the  present  tune  no  indication  of 
any  lack  of  adeauate  equipment.  It  is  true  that  some  years  ago  a 
greatly  increased  demand  for  worsted  fabrics,  assisted  by  the  high 
tariff  on  worsted  goods  and  their  by-products,  made  the  manufacture 
of  such  goods  very  profitable  and  the  mvestment  alluring,  but  this  led 
to  a  rapid  increase  of  worsted  machinery  in  tliis  country  and  the 
building  of  great  modern  mills  in  rapid  succession  in  various  parts  of 
the  East,  A  very  considerable  part  of  this  increase  was  due  to  the 
inflow  of  foreign  capital  and  the  transfer  of  experienced  cloth  manu- 
facturers from  other  countries.  The  result  has  been  a  great  increase 
m  competition. 

KELATIVE   COSTS. 

The  cost  of  manufacturing  woolen  and  worsted  yarns  and  cloth  in 
the  United  States  is  much  higher  than  in  Europe.  The  mam  elements 
of  cost  of  production  are  cost  of  plant,  material,  and  labor. 
•  T^^.cos^^^  erectmg  and  equipping  both  woolen  and  worsted  mills 
IS  much  higher  m  this  country  than  in  England.  The  cost  of  erecting 
and  equippmg  a  woolen  mill  is  about  45  per  cent  greater.  The  same  S 
true  of  the  weavmg  department  of  a  worsted  mill  using  American 
machmery. 

The  excess  in  cost  in  the  case  of  worsted  spinning  is  greater,  as  most 
of  the  macluneiy  is  imported.  This  pays  a  duty  of  45  per  cent  ad 
valorem,  and  to  this  must  be  added  charges  for  packing,  n-eight,  etc. 
which  makes  the  foreign  machine  cost  70  per  cent  over  or  more  in 
this  country  than  abroad.  Nor  does  this  include  the  cost  of  erection 
as  does  the  price  to  the  English  manufacturer.  The  same  is  true  of 
weaving  machinery  when  imjjorted. 

The  material  is  increased  m  price  by  the  duty  on  raw  wool  The 
manufacturer  who  imports  his  wool  must  pay  the  full  amount'of  the 
duty,  and  this  means  either  additional  working  capital  or  an  additional 
interest  charge  to  be  paid.  Wools  grown  m  the  United  States  are  m- 
cre^ed  m  value  by  the  duty,  but  not  by  the  full  extent  of  the  duty 

VVages  are  much  higher  m  the  Unitecl  States,  but  wages  are  in  them- 
selves no  necessary  mdication  of  relative  cost  of  production.  Fre- 
quently it  is  found  that  high  wages  and  low  labor  costs  go  together 
Ihe  question  at  once  arises  whether  the  labor  in  American  woolen 
and  worsted  manufacturing  is  more  efficient  than  such  labor  abroad 
or  whether  by  more  efficient  management  or  greater  speed  in  machin- 
ery the  American  manufacturer  is  able  to  get  a  larger  product  per 
0})erative  m  proportion  to  the  difference  in  wages. 

It  appears  that  this  particular  industry  is  one  in  which  the  hish 
elements  of  costs  m  this  country  are  not  in  general  offset  by  any  pXr- 
ticular  advantage  or  by  any  marked  superiority  in  the  efficiency  of 
laoor.  1  o  a  certain  extent,  in  fact,  European  countries  have  the  advan- 
tage ot  us  m  this  latter  regard.  In  the  centers  of  the  industry  abroad 
JlnZ.f-  ^^.^^?quate  supply  of  labor  wliich  has  been  trained  for 
norf fnn  T.P  H^f  ''''?  industry.  In  the  United  States  a  considerable 
ITJiL  tJ^^labor  is  found  to  be  of  unskilled  immigrants  with  no 
LhI!??®  experience  m  manufacture;  and  in  certain  centers  this  popu- 
conitZn  ^  ^^"^  fluctuatmg  kind,  and  the  manufacturer  is  obliged 
conimuaUy  to  break  m  a  new  set  of  mexperienced  operatives. 


BEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOABB  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


17 


The  American  tendency  to  secure  the  maximum  output  is  notice- 
able in  some  cases,  but  comparing  this  country  with  England,  at  least, 
it  may  be  said  that  the  possibihties  of  speed  have  been  practically 
reached  in  the  latter  country.  So  far  as  worsted  spinning  is  con- 
cerned, the  best  mills  in  this  country  seem  to  be  able  to  operate  with 
fewer  operatives  per  machine  and  to  get  a  greater  product  per  opera- 
tive than  in  some  European  countries,  but  if  this  means  a  sacntice 
of  quality  of  product  to  output  it  is  not  really  a  decrease  m  cost. 
Looms  in  the  Bradford  distnct  run,  on  the  whole,  at  a  higher  rate 
of  speed  than  do  looms  in  the  United  States. 

Furthermore,  there  is  no  supenonty  m  Amencan  machmey  oyer 
foreim  machinery.  As  a  matter  of  fact,  a  large  amount  of  foreign 
machinery  is  used  in  this  country,  and  in  the  worsted  mills  covered 
bv  the  investigation  into  machine  efficiency  87  per  cent  of  all  the 
niachinery,from  the  scouring  of  raw  wool  through  to  the  finished  yam, 
was  imported.     Only  22.9  per  cent  of  looms  were  imported.        • 

It  may  be  said,  then,  that,  taking  the  mdustry  as  a  whole,  the 
American  manufacturer  practically  has  no  advantage  m  efficiency  of 
labor  and  equipment  over  liis  foreign  competitor,  although  this  state- 
ment is  suWec^  to  exceptions  in  the  case  of  particular  processes  at 
particular  nills.  On  certain  specialties  ^helai-gest  and  most  effi^^^^^ 
American  mills  are  able  by  skillful  organizations  matenaUy  to  reduce 

the  difference  in  cost.  ,      .  .        •    -r»    x 

Detailed  figures  as  to  relative  costs  of  Production  are  given  in  Part 
ni  o(  the  report.  Roughly  summarized  they  may  be  expressed  as 
follows: 

TOPS. 

The  differenoo  in  the  cost  of  turning  wool  into  tops  in  this  country 
and  England  varies  with  the  quaUty  of  the  tops.  Considering  aU 
grades,  it  may  be  stated  that  80  per  cent  presents  a  rough  approxima- 
tion of  the  excess  of  the  American  cost  over  the  English.     Tim, 

of  coui^e,  does  not  mean  80  per  cent  of  «' V*'"^'!!f  Innv^^An  ?n 
merely  80  per  cent  of  the  conversion  cost.  The  cost  of  conversion  m 
Sfe  case  of  tops  is  in  any  case  but  a  few  cents  and.but  a  sma  1  fraction 
of  th^total  vafue  of  the^,roduct,  including  '"^t^"!  J«  JTe'fcen? 
commission  combing  in  tlie  two  countnes  vary  about  60  per  CM^t. 
^^ason  for  the  tUvergence  of  the  cost  of  figures  from  the  commis- 
sion charges  is  explained  in  the  report. 

WORSTED  YARNS. 

The  cost  of  producing  yams  varies  in  different  '^""♦.'l^s  «««°^^^ 
to  particular  quaUties  and  methods.  I^/ng^fn^  the  method  of 
fraie  spinning  is  the  more  common,  and.  on  t^«  ^^ontment  mule 
sninning  The  latter  is  the  more  expensive  process.  Comparmg 
spmnmg.  f  "". '"^  ,  i  -.u  f^ame  sninning  in  the  United  States- 
frame  spmning  m  J^nglana  w  itn  irame  spuiiiuig  iii  i.  „uu„,,„i,  * i.Bre 
which  is  the  common  method  here-it  may  be  said  that,  f/">ough  there 
Ire  wide  variations  in  both  countries  from  «"".*«,?»"' t'f^''"^!'.'^'*^ 
cost  for  the  same  quality  and  cOunt  of  yams  in  the  United  States  is 
Xut  t.^'ice  that  L  England.  The  difference  m  Uie  cost  between 
the  United  States  and  Germany  is  not  so  great. 

This  refers  to  the  inere  cost  of  turning  t«P«  "^J^,  3^»™'  ,'^7„^£ 
course  does  not  mean  that  the  difference  in  cost  is  equal  to  100  per 
^nt^f  the  foreign  selling  value.    The  foreign  conversion  cost  of  yam 


from  tops,  except  in  the  case  of  the  finest  yams,  is  normally  less 
than  20  per  cent  of  the  total  market  value  of  the  yarn.  Care  should 
be  taken  not  to  confuse  the  ratio  between  manufacturing  costs  and 
the  ratio  between  total  values,  including  cost  of  raw  material. 

WOOLEN    AND   WORSTED   INDUSTRY. 

Tlie  difference  in  manufacturing  cost  here  and  abroad  of  woolen  and 
worsted  fabrics  (from  yarn  to  finished  cloth)  varies  greatly,  according 
to  the  character  of  the  fabrics.  The  main  processes  included  are 
weaving,  finishing,  and  dyeing.  The  figures  of  the  board  show  that 
the  cost  of  turning  yarn  into  cloth  in  the  United  States  compared 
with  England  is  all  the  way  from  60  per  cent  to  170  per  cent  higher, 
according  to  the  character  of  the  fabric.  For  a  great  variety  of  fabrics 
the  American  conversion  cost  is  from  100  to  150  per  cent  greater  than 
the  English  cost.  This  is  further  substantiated  by  the  fact  that  the 
weaving  scales  per  yard  of  product  in  the  two  countries  vary  in  ahnost 
exactly  the  same  proportions. 

The  difference  m  cost  of  manufacturing  in  France  and  the  United 
States  is  found  to  be  very  close  to  the  difference  between  England 
and  the  United  States.  On  the  other  hand,  the  difference  in  the 
cost  of  the  manufacture  in  the  United  States  and  Germany  is  some- 
what less. 

Further,  it  should*  be  pointed  out  that  the  statement  that  the  differ- 
ence in  the  cost  of  manufacturing  cloth  is  100  per  cent  or  more  does 
not  mean  100  per  cent  of  the  market  value  of  the  cloth.  It  merely 
means  that,  given  the  same  yarn,  the  cost  of  weaving  and  finishing 
in  this  country  is  generally  somewhat  more  than  double  that  in 
England.  It  is  impossible  to  express  this  difference  in  relation  to 
the  total  value  of  the  product,  since  the  material  going  into  two  differ- 
ent articles  having  the  same  conversion  cost  may  vary  widely  in 
value:  while,  on  the  other  hand,  the  material  for  the  production  of 
exactly  the  same  article  may  vary  widely  in  value  at  two  different 
periods  and  the  conversion  cost  remain  exactly  the  same. 

METHOD   OF   ASSESSING   DUTIES. 

If  an  ad  valorem  duty  be  placed  upon  raw  wool,  the  duties  on 
manufactures  of  wool  must  necessarily  be  ad  valorem  duties.  If  a 
specific  duty  be  placed  on  the  scoured  content  of  the  raw  wool,  it 
would  then  be  possible  to  levy  a  specific  duty  on  tops  and  yams.  The 
system  of  specific  duties,  as  is  well  known,  has  many  advantages  for 
administrative  and  revenue  purposes.  It  has  a  further  advantage 
from  the  point  of  view  of  adjusting  duties  to  difference  in  cost  of 
production  at  home  and  abroad.  The  duty  could  then  be  maintained 
at  a  constant  and  definite  figure  corresponding  to  a  definite  and  con- 
stant difference  in  cost  of  manufacture.  Under  an  ad  valorem  sys- 
tem the  amount  of  duty  varies  with  every  fluctuation  in  the  market 
value  of  the  raw  material,  whde  the  difference  in  the  cost  of  manu- 
facture remains  relatively  constant.  In  the  case  of  yams  which  are 
fairly  well  standardized,  and  where  the  cost  varies  in  a  fairly  definite 
relation  to  the  fineness  of  the  spinning,  a  scale  of  specific  duties 
graduated  to  the  different  sizes  of  yarn  could  be  readily  arranged  and 
administered. 

32080°— H.  Doc.  342,  62-2,  vol  1 2 


18 


KEPOBT  OF   TARIFF  BOABD  ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


However,  it  is  probably  impracticable  to  adopt  a  purely  specific 
system  of  duties  on  woven  fabrics.  These  are  not  standardized  and 
vary  widely  in  material,  in  construction,  and  in  conversion  costs.  No 
feasible  sctieme  of  classifying  and  describing  fabrics  in  terms  corre- 
sponding to  diiferences  in  conversion  cost  has  yet  been  worked  out. 
CJonsequently,  even  if  the  specific  system  of  duties  were  adopted  for 
wool  and  yarn  it  would  be  necessary  to  combine  a  specific  coAipensa- 
tory  duty  with  an  ad  valorem  rate  for  woven  fabrics. 

There  are  grave  difficulties,  however,  in  attempting  to  place 
a  flat  ad  valorem  rate  on  manufactures  of  this  kind.  In  certain 
grades  of  fabrics  the  value  of  the  material  is  a  very  large  proportion 
of  the  total  value  and  the  cost  of  manufacture  relatively  small.  In 
the  case  of  expensive  and  finely  finished  goods,  on  the  other  hand,  the 
cost  of  material  becomes  less  important  and  the  labor  or  conversion 
cost  becomes  an  increasingly  large  proportion  of  the  total  cost.  The 
result  is  that  a  flat  rate,  adequate  to  offset  the  difference  in  cost  of 
production  on  the  finer  goods,  must  be  prohibitive  on  cheaper  goods. 
Conversely,  the  rate  which  merely  equalizes  the  difference  in  cost  of 

Sroduction  on  cheaper  goods  would  be  inadequate  to  equalize  the 
ifference  in  the  cost  of  finer  goods.  A  fair  solution  seems  to  be  the 
adoption  of  a  graduated  scale  under  which  an  ad  valorem  rate 
assessed  properly  on  goods  of  low  value  should  then  increase  pro- 
gressively according  to  slight  increments  of  value,  up  to  whatever 
maximum  rate  should  be  fixed.  * 

A  single  specific  compensatory  duty,  if  adequate  for  all-wool  goods 
made  from  imported  wool,  would  be  excessive  for  low-grade  goods 
containing  cheaper  materials.  This  could  be  partly  offset  by  a  Tower 
ad  valorem  rate  on  such  goods;  and  furthermore  specific  compensa- 
tory duties  could  be  assessed  at  two  or  more  rates  according  to  value. 

KSADT-MADE   CLOTHING. 

Til©  investigation  into  the  ready-made  ciotliing  industry  shows  that 
the  cloth  is  the  largest  element  in  the  clothing  produced  and  is  equal 
to  one-third  of  the  net  wholesale  selling  price.  It  varies  with  the 
grades  of  clothing  produced,  being  highest  relatively  in  the  clieaper 
garments.  The  cost  of  linings  is  about  5  per  cent  of  the  net  wliolc- 
sale  selling  price.  The  total  cost  of  cloth  and  wo  >len  materials,  taken 
as  a  whole,  is  equal  to  ab<iut  40  per  cent  of  tliis  price. 

In  considering  the  importance  of  cloth  cost  to  the  wearer  of  cloth- 
ing, it  is  necessary  to  bear  in  mind  the  margin  between  wholesale  and 
retail  price.  The  retail  price  is  iisually  60  per  cent  or  more  above  th© 
net  wnolesale  price.  On  this  basis  about  25  per  cent  of  the  price 
paid  to  the  retailer  goes  to  the  manufacturer  of  cloth. 

Taking  the  industry  as  a  whole,  the  cost  of  material,  labor,  and  all 
other  expense  undergone  in  converting  material  into  finished  gar- 
ments is  80  per  cent  of  the  net  wholesale  selling  price  of  the  finished 
product.  Out  of  this  20  per  cent  margin  between  th©  total  manufac- 
turing cost  and  th©  manufacturer's  net  selling  price  comes  selling 
expense,  such  general  expense  as  can  not  be  charged  directly  to  manu- 
facturing or  selling,  and  profit.  These  figures  apply  particularly  to 
men's  clothing,  where  garments  are  more  standardized  and  represent 
costs  more  easy  to  determine. 

In  women's  garments  the  cloth  is  also  the  largest  single  item.  In 
skirts  it  is  equal  to  40  per  cent  of  the  net  wholesale  selhng  price;  on 


EEPOKT  OF   TAKIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE  K, 


19 


most  cloaks  equal  to  between  30  and  35  per  cent;  on  cheap  suits  it  is 
over  25  per  cent;  and  on  more  expensive  varieties  it  falls  below  20 
per  cent.  To  the  manufacturer,  therefore,  cloth  is  not  so  important 
an  element  of  cost  in  women's  clothing  as  in  men's.  On  the  other 
hand,  the  labor  and  manufacturing  expense  are  more  important  in 
women's  clothing.  The  margin  remaining  to  the  manufacturer  of 
women's  garments,  over  and  above  the  cost  of  materials  and  expense 
of  converting  them  into  wearing  apparel,  is  somewhat  less  than  m  the 
men's  clothing  industry,  but  selling  expenses  are  considerably  lower 
for  these  establishments. 

There  is  submitted  a  detailed  statement  for  an  actual  standard  high- 
grade  suit  of  all-wool  cloth,  which  traces  the  relation  of  costs  and 
prices  in  detail,  for  each  process  of  prduction  from  the  retail  price  to 
the  cost  of  the  wool  on  tne  farm. 

Three-piece  Suit. 

Begtilar  wholesale  price,  $16. 50^  n«t  wholesale  price,  $15.39;  retail  price,  $23  and  up. 

Cloth,  fancy  worsted. 

Clothing  manufacture. 

COST  OF  STOCK. 

Trimmings:  Bodj^  lining,  $0.38|  per  yard.  Sleeve  lining,  $0.18  per  yard.  Num- 
ber of  yards  per  suit:  <a)  Coat,  1.8;  (6)  pante,  1.35;  {c)  vest,  0.45.  Cost  of  cloth 
used  in  suit:  (a)  Per  yard,  $1,328;  (6)  total.  $4.78. 


Coat. 

Pfurts. 

Vest. 

Cost  of  cloth 

$2.39 
1.963 

$1,793 

.278 

fO  597 

Cost  of  trJanmings 

.527 

« 

Credit  waslo 

4.353 

.024 

2.071 
.018 

1.124 

oos 

Total  cost  of  stock 

4.329 
.025 

2.053 
.019 

1  118 

Add  freight 

Oflfi 

Total 

4.354 

2.072 

1.124 

CONVERSION  COST. 


Sponging  and  examining. 

Cattiag 

Trimming 

Fitting 

Operating 

Bastins. 


Finidiing 

Button  sewing '..'.'.. 

Buttonholes *I!!!1! 

I^ressing. 

BusholLng 

M  iscellaueous 

Examining  finished  product . 

Total  productive  labor. 


Coat. 

Pants, 

Vest. 

$3,040 

$0,030 

$0. 010 

.146 

.109 

.«S7 

.034 

.025 

.008 

.955 

.010 

.030 

.380 

.255 

.188 

.318 

.035 

.060 

.345 

.138 

.027 

.037 

.040 

.023 

.130 
.450 

.107 
.123 

•  iso 

.068 

.050 

.025 

.210 

.008 

.005 

.017 

.013 

.004 

2.230 

.863 

.647 

s«a. 


$0.08 
.292 
.067 
.095 
.825 
.413 
.510 
.10 
.237 
.723 
.143 
.223 
.034 


3.740 


SUMMARY 


Total  stock  cost 

Conversion  cost ".!!!]"]"""' 

Factor;jr  expense  d'istributed  to  each  garment  on  basis  of  pro^ 
ductive  labor  m  each  garment 


Total  factory  cost 

beUmg  expense  and  general  expense  distributed  to  each  gar- 
ment on  basis  of  ratio  of  total  selling  expense  to  total  value 
of  output 


Final  cost  (factory  cost  plus  selling  and  general  expense). 


$4,354 
2.230 

.669 


7.253 


$2,072 
.863 

.259 


3.194 


$1. 124 
.647 

.194 


1.905 


$7,550 
3.740 

1.122 


12. 412 
1.908 


14. 320 


20  BEPOET  OP  TARIFF  BOAED   ON   SCHEDULE   K. 

Cloth  making. 

Name  of  clotli,  fancy  worsted  Biiitiog. 

Number  of  warp  encla  to  1  incli '. 73 

Number  of  picks  to  1  inch ...'...'.  61 

Width  in  reed .V.  65J 

Width  of  goods  finished 57 

Weight  of  cloth  per  yard IIX 

Pounds  of  cloth  to  1,000  yards C93J 

COST  OF  STOCK  FOR  1,000  YARDS. 


Warp:  3992,  ends 
152,  ends 
Total  ends,  4144. 


Welt,  61  picks 


Total  stock 


Kind  of 
yam- 


Half  blood.. 

Silk 


Waste 

Half  blood . . 
Waste 


Count  of 
yam. 


2/40 

60/2 


2/40 


I^ounds. 


394.7 
3.4 

10 
351 

8.8 


"67.9 


Cost  of 

yarn  per 
pound. 


11.06 
3.90 


1.06 


Total 
cost. 


S4I8.  38 
13.26 

10.60 

372.06 

9.33 


823.63 


CONVERSION  COST  FOR  1,000  YARDS. 

Productive  or  direct  labor  is  actual  labor,  applied  directly  to  stock  in  its  conversion- 
including  proportion  of  wages  paid  to  second  hands  and  subforemen  properly  charge, 
able  to  eacJi  department. 

Nonproductive  or  indirect  labor  is  indirect  labor  employed  in  department,  including 
overseers,  foremen,  carriers,  etc.,  but  not  including  general  and  repair  labor,  which  are 
provided  for  under  general  expense. 

Department  materials  are  materials  other  than  stock  used  in  department.  For 
example,  soap  for  scouring,  oil  for  oiling  stock,  dyes  and  cliemicals  for  dyeing,  etc. 


Productive 

or  direct 

labor. 

Nonpro- 
ductive or 
indirect 
labor. 

Depart- 
ment ma- 
terials. 

Total 
cost. 

Dressing  (including  drawing  in) 

SIO.  94 

122.00 

10.00 

28.00 

4.50 

SI.  56 

38.00 

1.00 

1.00 

16.00 
11.20 

S18.50 

171.20 

11.00 

Weaving 

Burling 

Mending 

29  00 

Remending  and  specking,  etc 

.50 

5  00 

Dyeing  and  finishing 

^  00 

General  expense 

i^is  nn 

Total  conversion  cost 

441  70 

Cost  of  stock 

K23  6.1 

'" 

Net  manufacturing  cost,  1,000  yards 

1 

1 .  265. 33 

1 

Manufacturing  cost  per  vard. 
Selling  price  per  yard  (net).. 


$1,265 
1.328 


1 


BEPOET  OF   TAEIFF   BOARD   ON   SCHEDULE   K.  21 

Yam  making. 
SpinniTig  1,000  pounds  of  worsted  yam  No.  2140. 

COST  OF  STOCK. 

Pounds  tops  required  for  manufacture  of  1,000  pounds  yarn 1, 136 

Cost  of  tops  per  pound $0.  77 

Total  cost  of  tops $874.  72 

CONVERSION  COST. 


Drawing 

Spinning 

Twisting 

Spooling 

Warping  on  jack  spools. 
General  expense 


Total  conversion  cost. 
Cost  of  stock 


Total  cost 

Less  credit  waste  (85  pounds  at  $0.37) 


Net  manufacturing  co.st  per  1,000  pounds. 


Pounds  of 
material 
entering 

each 
process. 


1,136 

1,090 
1,037 
1,020 
1,010 


Productive 

or  direct 

labor. 


$20  18 
29.31 
24.54 
11.37 
12.51 


Nonpro- 
ductive or 
indirect 
labor. 


Total  cost. 


$1.62 

1.80 

1.02 

.75 

.75 


$21.80 
31.11 
25.56 
12.12 
13.26 

110.08 


97.91 


5.94 


213.93 

874. 72 


1,088.65 
31.45 


1,057.20 


Manufacturing  cost  per  pound,  $1.06. 

Top  making. 

COST  OF  STOCK  ENTERING  MANUFACTURE  OF  1,000  POUNDS  OF  TOPS. 


Raw  wool,  one-half  blood  Ohio  (unwashed). 
Less  credit  noils  and  waste 


Pounds. 


3,125 

180 

50 


Price  per 
pound. 


$0.25 
.32  \ 
.17  / 


Total 
cost. 


$781.25 
66.10 


Net  total. 


715. 15 


CONVERSION  COST  OF  1,000  POUNDS  OF  TOPS. 

■ 

Pounds 
of  mate- 
rial enter- 
ing each 
proce-sa. 

Produc- 
tive or 
direct 
labor. 

Nonpro- 
ductive 
or  indi- 
rect labor. 

Depart- 
ment 
materials. 

Totnl 
cost. 

Sorting  and  blending 

3,125 
3,125 
1,250 
1,200 

Scouring 

$7.22 
3.37 

4.88 

$5.18 

.61 

1.22 

$6.56 

$18.96 
3  98 

Carding 

Combing 

2.60 

8.70 
23  82 

General  expense 

_    ^    Total  conversion  cost 

15.47 

7.01 

9.16 

55  46 

Cost  of  stock 

71. "i  la 

Total  manufacturing  cost  of  1,000  pounds 

770.61 

Manufacturing  cost  per  pound,  $0.77. 


^M 


BEPOBT  OF   TABIFF  BOAED   ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


COST   OF   WOOI,  IN  SAMPLE   SUIT. 

a}^^„  estimated  that  the  half-blood  wool  grown  in  the  Ohio  region 
dunng  1910  carries  an  average  flock  expense  charge  of  at  least  16 

tn MrX'  r^  *"  profit  above  bare  production  cost  of  the  crops  fed 
to  the  flock  IS  ehnunated.     For  thw  wool  23  cents  a  pounS  was 

Z V^^'lr.T'*'- 1  -^J^  ^^?"r"  ?-^  y*^'^^  "f  '^'"tli  to  n^aSe  the  suit 
nf  1  R^»"f  *  "^""^  "\  ^^  "T^"'?  ^"'*  ^""'d  ^  9-7  pounds.  At  a  cost 
woifd^e^l^f.^T^  ^f^^*"^  f"'*  "^  ""^^^g  ^J^^^O"!  for  "'i«  suit 
mW^t„ri;   tV  ?^  ^  *^°*^  P,T  P""?'''  **^°  price  paid  by  the 

^J^r^'-wi-^"°^^^5^,^**"'^  "^^^^e  «2.23,  or  a  mannn  of 
68  cents.     While  the  average  Ohio  flock  covered  by  the  board's  mres- 

tT^Z^Z  n7?  fi^*^  ekewhere,  consists  of  about  200  sheep,  shearing 
!^t;tl  «f^.  ■  l:\  f?'"''^  °/  ^'^^'  t"^"  general  flock  aver^a^e  of  the 
fi  ^^lf„?  "^  k"*^^'  tT^  the  general  shearing  average  of  the  State 
6  5  pounds  per  head..  Using  this  as  a  basis  it  appears  tlat  at  23  cents 
per  pound  selhng  pnce  there  would  be  a  return  of  $1.49*  per  fleece 
the  actual  cost  o1  which  was  not  less  than  $1.04,  leaving  L  apparent 
profit  of  45J  cente  per  fleece.     This  indicates  that  the^owne?^  55 

« tK^„  ^Pi*''^]*"*™'^,"^'' "?  **"'  ^^^^^  flock  would  receive  $25.02 
as  the  proceeds  of  a  year's  maintenance. 

WAGES   AND   EFFICIENCY. 

The  investigation  as  to  wages  and  efliciency  covering  35  029  ner- 
swns  and  164  separate  occupations  shows  that  the  eamin|s  of 'weavers 

m«lic  „?,J  ^Q  t7f  ^  an  average  for  worsted  weavers  of  $12.36  for 
males  and  $9.54  for  females,  and  for  woolen  weavers  an  average  of 
«10.63  for  males  and  $10.54  for  females.     The  weeUy  enrnin4  are 

Sti^'^i^  ^SS'aL'"""'  ^^  ^«  «-  "^^  --^^'  ^--  ^-  ^^™ 

Of  the  total  7,990  scouiing,  carding,  combing,  drawing,  and  spin- 

mng  macliine^  and  12,337  weaving  lo^ms  investigated,  78  per  cenHf 

SicMne^'e^^^^^^^^  looms   and  87.8   p^er  cent  of  worsted 

m&clunery  exceptmg  looms  are  of  foreign  manufacture  and  22  per 
cent  of  American  make.  It  is  asserted  by  manufacturers  that 
American-made  maclimes  for  worsted  spinning  can  not  produce  the 
ilTfe  wJr^i'^  oneitenth^per  cent  Jf  the  Wi^ 

q^^^o^^ti  a'q?  employees,  36.5  per  cent  were  bom  in  the  United 
^ntWr  J.^  .f!^^  ^"""^'^  countries.     Thirty-five  and  one- 

Mv  ^PAcfTn  Lf  «^P/«3^^%^^'^r^  of  the  newer  immigration  from 
itahr,  eastern  and  southern  Europe.     The  supervisoi^  class  was 

Efe7Zd^SS  ^^^"^""^  ^"""^  "^  ^^^  ^"^^^^  ^^""^^  ^"^  ^^^^^ 

Eighty-three  and  three-tenths  per  cent  of  the  total  employees  had 
^"i  F^^?^f  .  ^P?™?^^  "^  the  woolen  or  other  manufacturing  or 
mechanical  industry  before  gomg  to  work  in  the  woolen  mills,  fifty 
and  mne-tenths  per  cent  of  these  came  directly  to  the  mill  from  the 


KEPORT  OF   TARIFF  BOARD   ON   SCHE^toM^fc'' '    l-al»rajfgpr 

)  Kent    flail 

school  or  the  home  and  32.4  per  cent  had  beefeotufilig^eldfib' «glily 
cultural,  transportation,  trade,    domestic  service,   ai<liv^tte]pk non- 
manufacturing  occupations.     About  one-sixth  (16.6  per  cent)  had 
been  in  the  industry  less  than  one  year  and  53.9  per  cent  less  than 
five  years. 

Eighty  per  cent  of  loom  production  on  worsteds  and  70  per  cent 
on  woolens,  with  20  per  cent  of  loom  stoppages  on  worsted  and  30 
per  cent  on  woolens  while  weaving,  are  tne  manufacturers'  desired 
standards  of  efficiency.  The  individual  records  kept  by  the  Tariff 
Board  of  weavers  operating  11,080  looms  show  that  the  weavers  oper- 
ating 4.1  per  cent  of  the  worsted  looms  and  2  per  cent  of  the  woolen 
looms  attained  a  productive  efficiency  of  90  per  cent  and  over.  On 
24.7  per  cent  of  worsted  and  12.9  of  woolen  looms  the  efficiency  was 
80,  but  less  than  90  per  cent.  On  30.9  per  cent  of  worsted  and  21.6 
per  cent  of  woolen  looms  the  efficiency  was  70  but  less  than  80  per 
cent.  On  34.1  per  cent  of  worsted  and  45.4  per  cent  of  woolen  looms 
the  efficiency  was  50  but  less  than  70  per  cent.  On  6.2  per  cent  of 
worsted  and  18  per  cent  of  woolen  looms  the  productive  efficiency  of 
the  weavers  fell  below  50  per  cent. 

Seventy  per  cent  of  the  weavers  were  bom  in  the  United  States, 
Germany,  and  the  British  Isles,  and  30  per  cent  in  Italy,  eastern  and 
southeastern  Europe.  Two  menders  and  burlers  were  employed  for 
every  four  weavers  and  nine  looms  to  correct  the  imperfections  in  the 
woven  cloth.  Two  and  eighteen  one-hundred tlis  per  cent  of  the 
yardage  produced  was  still  imperfect  after  mending  and  was  sold  as 
seconds. 

The  productive  efficiency  per  one  man  hour  for  machine  operatives 
and  machines  in  the  scouring,  carding,  combmg,  drawing,  and  spin- 
ning departments,  with  168  separate  labor  costs  per  pound,  show  wide 
differences  in  efficiency  and  cost,  but  indicate  in  general  that  the 
lowest  labor  costs  per  pound  were  in  mills  paying  the  highest  wages. 
Respectfully  submitted. 

Henry  C.  Emery,  Chairman, 

Alvin  H.  Sanders. 

James  B.  Reynolds. 

William.  M.  Howard. 

Thomas.  W.  Page. 


PART  I:  GLOSSARY  ON  SCHEDULE  K 


AN  ANALYSIS,  BY  PARAGRAPHS,  OF  SCHEDULE  K  OF  Tlffi 
TARIFF  ACT  OF  AUGUST  5,  1909,  AND  A  STATIS- 
TICAL SURVEY  OF  THE  INDUSTRIES 
AFFECTED  THEREBY. 


SECTION  1 


25 


PREFATORY  NOTE. 


Where  no  authority  for  the  statistics  used  in  the  following  report 
is  given,  they  have  been  compiled  from  original  and  official  sources. 
The  source  of  semiofficial  and  trade  statistics  is  given  with  each  table. 
The  production  of  wool  manufactures  in  the  United  States  for  1909 
is  furnished  in  advance  by  the  Census  Bureau.  These  figures  are 
preliminary  in  the  sense  that  they  may  be  changed  slightly  before 
publication  in  ofTicial  form  by  the  census;  but  in  any  case  such 
changes  will  be  small  and  can  be  disregarded. 

No  attempt  has  been  made  in  this  report  to  discuss  in  detail,  over 
a  period  of  years,  the  imports  by  articles  and  the  computed  ad 
valorem  rates  of  duty.     The  computed  ad  valorem  rates  on  the  vari- . 
ous  classifications  within  the  paragraphs  of  the  tariff  act  are  dis-| 
cussed  in  detail  for  1911  only.     These  import  figures  for  1911  are 

SubHshed  here  for  the  first  time  and  are  furnished  in  advance  by  the 
kireau  of  Statistics.  Other  import  figures  are  given  simply  for  repre- 
sentative years.  Those  interested  in  making  a  detailed  study  of 
imports  for  consumption  and  the  computed  ad  valorem  rates  of  duty 
for  each  year  since  1894  are  referred  to  House  Document  No.  1504,' 
Sixtieth  Congress,  second  session,  and  House  Report  No.  45,  Sixty- , 
second  Congress,  first  session.  The  imports  by  countries  into  the 
United  States  used  in  tliis  report  are  from  Table  3  in  Commerce  and 
Navigation  of  the  United  States.  Tlds  table  includes,  it  should  be 
remembered,  in  addition  to  the  imports  for  consumption,  the  imports 
into  Government  warehouses,  some  of  which  may  have  been  reex- 
ported. The  table  of  imports  by  countries,  therefore,  always  shows 
a  somewhat  larger  figure  than  the  imports  for  consumption,  which 
are  taken  from  Table  15  of  Commerce  and  Navigation. 

27 


l"^   ■■<**.•  ".IlLli 


« #*'»  I:. 


Kent   Hall 

Columbia  University 

New  York 

AN  ANALYSIS,  BY  PAKAGEAPHS,  OF  SCHEDULE  K  OF  THE 
TAKIFF  ACT  OF  AUGUST  5,  1909,  AND  A  STATIS- 
TICAL SURVEY  OF  THE  INDUSTRIES 
AFFECTED  THEREBY 


Section  1.— PAEAGRAPHS  EELATDfG  TO  RAW  MATERIALS. 

History  of  the  schedule, — ^The  basis  of  the  present  tariff  on  wool  and 
the  manufactures  of  wool  is  to  be  found  in  the  act  of  March  2,  1867. 
In  the  acts  of  1861  and  1864  attempts  v/ere  made  to  solve  the  problem 
of  adjusting  in  proper  ratio  the  duty  on  manufactures  and  the  duty 
on  the  raw  material,  but  no  satisfactory  arrangement  was  reached 
until  the  Syracuse  convention  of  December,  1865.  The  act  of  1867 
was  framecl  closely  in  accord  with  the  conclusions  of  this  convention. 
The  object  of  this  act  was  to  furnish  adequate  protection  for  both 
the  woolgrowers  and  the  wool  manufacturers,  whose  interests  in 
the  importation  of  foreign  wools  were  said  to  be  opposed.  In  gen- 
eral, the  principle  on  which  the  act  was  constructed — a  principle 
which  is  still  the  structural  basis  of  Schedule  K  in  the  act  of  1909 — 
was,  in  the  first  place,  to  levy  an  adequate  duty  on  imported  wools 
which  would  protect  the  woolgrower  m  the  home  market;  and,  in 
the  second  place^  to  levy  a  compound  duty  on  the  manufactures  of 
wool,  one  part  hemg  a  specific  duty,  which  in  theory  would  merely  com- 

Eensate  the  domestic  manufacturer  by  aiming  to  put  liim  on  the  same 
asis  as  though  he  had  free  wool,  and  the  other  part  being  an  ad 
valorem  duty  which  was  intended  as  a  protection  against  foreign  com- 
petition. In  principle.  Schedule  K  has,  with  the  exception  of  the  act 
of  1894,  remained  suDstantiahy  as  formulated  by  this  committee. 
Changes  that  have  been  made  relate  only  to  classification  and  adjust- 
ment of  rates.  In  1872  there  was  a  horizontal  reduction  in  the  ratea 
of  10  per  cent,  but  this  was  repealed  in  1875.  Again,  in  1883,  there 
was  a  reduction  in  rates.  In  the  revision  of  1890  the  rates  were 
increased  over  those  of  1883,  and  the  schedule,  in  addition  to  perpetu- 
ating the  principle  of  the  act  of  1867,  was  given  substantially  the 
classification,  the  phraseology,  and  rates  found  in  the  acts  of  1897 
and  1909.  The  only  radical  revision  which  Schedule  K  has  undergone 
was  in  1894,  when  raw  wool,  noils,  waste,  and  woolen  rags  were  placed 
on  the  free  list  and  the  compensatory  rates  of  duty  on  manufactures  of 
wool  were  removed. 


PARAGRAPH  360.— CLASSIFICATION'. 

All  wools,  hair  of  the  camel,  goat,  alpaca,  and  other  like  animals  shall  be  divided, 
lor  the  purpose  of  fixing  the  duties  to  be  charged  thereon,  into  the  three  following 

Paragraph  360  is  the  first  paragraph  in  Schedule  K  of  the  act  of 
August  5,  1909.  The  term  ''all  wools"  is  comprehensive  and  indi- 
cates that  all  fiber  produced  by  sheep  is  included  in  one  of  the  three 

29 


so 


BEPORT  OP  TARIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


classes  which  foQow.  Only  the  hairs  which  are  specified,  however, 
are  classified  with  the  wools.  These  are  earners  hair,  mohair,  alpaca, 
cashmere,  and  other  like  hairs.  Hair  of  the  common  goat,  horse, 
cattle,  and  like  animals  is  admitted  free  of  duty  under  paragraph 
683.  Hair  from  a  cross  between  the  sheep  and  common  goat,  known 
as  the  cabretta,  is  held  to  be  dutiable  as  wool.     (T.  D.  27258.) 

Distinction  between  wad  and  hair. — The  most  distinctive  physical 
characteristics  of  wool  are  its  curliness,  elasticity,  and  scale  or  ser- 
rated structure.  These  characteristics  give  to  wool  its  clinging 
property  wMch  makes  it  possible  to  spin  it  into  j^arn  or  to  felt  it  mto 
a  fabric  without  weaving.  The  fiber  of  the  fine  wools,  such  as  the 
merino,  has  the  liighest  number  of  scales.  In  some  cases  they  are 
found  as  high  as  4,000  to  the  inch.  The  fiber  of  the  fine  wools  is  also 
short  in  diameter  and  the  size  of  the  fiber  increases,  and  their  number 
per  square  inch  on  the  sheep  decreases,  as  the  wool  becomes  coarser. 
No  hard  and  fast  distinction  can  be  drawn  between  wools  and  hair. 
The  gradations  are  almost  imperceptible  between  mermo  wool,  at 
the  one  extreme,  and  coarse  hair  at  the  other.  As  fiber  approaches 
hair,  the  serrations  become  less,  the  diameter  increases,  and  the 
luster  becomes  greater.  The  luster  wools  of  the  second  class  in  the 
tariff  classification  have  some  of  the  characteristics  of  hair.  Mohair 
and  alpaca  show  the  scale  structure  in  a  slight  degree  under  the  micro- 
scope.   Their  cliief  value  is  in  producing  lustrous,  nonfelting  fabrics. 

Boms  of  wool  dassijication. — In  the  tariff  acts  of  1867  and  1883,  the 
three  classes  of  wool  were  designated,  respectively,  as  "Clothing 
wools,"  '^Combing  wools,"  and  ''Carpet  wools  and  other  similar 
wools."  These  terms  would  seem  to  indicate  that  the  framers  of  the 
act  intended  the  classification  to  be  according  to  the  possible  use  to 
which  the  wool  might  be  put.  If  this  were  the  basis  of  classification, 
it  was  immediately  disregarded  by  those  intrusted  mth  the  adminis- 
tration of  the  customs.  It  was  held  that  the  proper  classification 
was  by  race  and  blood  and  that  this  basis  was  to  be  adhered  to 
regardless  of  coarseness,  fineness,  or  possible  use  of  the  wool.  (T.  D. 
361,  Feb.  26,  1869.)     In  1883  it  was  further  stated  (T.  D.  6028) : 

The  theory  upon  which  the  wool  tariff  of  1867  was  adopted  was  a  di\i8ion  of  woola 
into  variouB  classes  according  to  race  and  blood,  and  their  claasffication  was  not  to  be 
determined  according  to  their  u»e.  This  distinction  has  be^i  maintained  from  the 
time  of  the  enactment  of  the  law  until  the  present. 

This  blood  classification  has  been  strictly  adhered  to  up  to  the 
present  time.  Imported  wools  showing  any  perceptible  trace  of 
meiino  blood  are  dutiable  as  wool  of  the  first  class;  those  from  sheep 
of  the  English  breeds  as  wool  of  the  second  class;  and  those  from 
native  or  unimproved  sheep  as  wool  of  the  third  class.  This  wool 
classification  has  caused  the  American  tariff  to  be  known  as  the  blood 
tariff.  In  the  revision  of  1890,  the  terms  "Clotliing  wools,"  ''Comb- 
ing wools,"  and  "Carpet  wools  and  other  similar  wools"  ceased  to  be 
the  class  designations,  but  the  classes  remained  substantially  the 
same.  These  terms  while  not  conclusive  of  classification  even  when 
the  original  Schedule  K  was  enacted,  were  more  descriptive  of  the 
use  of  the  various  classes  of  wool  than  they  would  be  to-day.  At  that 
time,  the  wools  of  the  first  class  were  used  almost  entirely  by  the 
carded  woolen  industry  for  making  fabrics  for  clothing;  the  wools  of 
the  second  class  were  then  used  by  the  infant  worsted  industry  for 
making   dress   goods    and    passementeries.     Since   that    time    the 


REPOET  OF   TABITF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


oJ. 


improvement  of  combing  machinery  and  the  expansion  of  the  worsted 
inclustry  has  made  class  1  wools  the  common  raw  material  of  both  the 
woolen  and  worsted  industries. 

All  wool  now  imported  into  the  United  States  is  classified  strictly 
according  to  the  race  of  the  sheep  from  wiiich  it  was  shorn. 

Paragraph  361.— CLASS  1  WOOLS. 

Class  one,  that  ia  to  say,  merino,  mestiza,  metz,  or  metis  wools,  or  other  wools  of 
merino  blood,  immediate  or  remote,  Down  clothing  wools,  and  wools  of  like  character 
with  any  of  the  preceding,  including  Bagdad  wool,  China  lamb's  wool,  Castel  Branco, 
Adriauople  skin  wool  or  butcher's  wool,  and  such  as  have  been  heretofore  usually 
imported  into  the  United  States  from  Buenos  Aires,  New  Zealand,  Australia,  Cape  of 
Good  Hope,  Russia,  Great  Britain,  Canada,  Egypt,  Morocco,  and  elsewhere,  and  all 
wools  not  hereinaftCT  included  in  classes  two  and  three. 

Tlie  merino. — The  merino  sheep  is  the  best-known  and  most  widely 
distributed  of  the  breeds.  Where  it  is  not  found  as  a  full  blood  it  is 
often  crossed  with  the  English  or  native  breeds.  It  is  a  comparatively 
small  sheep,  well  covered  with  dense,  crimpv  wool.  The  length  of  the 
staple  vanes  with  the  type  of  merino,  but  the  fiber  is  always  very  fine 
and  covered  with  numerous  scales  which  adapt  it  specially  to  the 
making  of  the  finest  fabrics.  On  some  types  the  skin  is  raised  in 
folds  on^  the  body — a  feature  at  one  time  cultivated  by  breeders 
because  it  increased  the  wool-bearing  surface,  but  now  generally  dis- 
couraged. Merino  fleeces  are  relatively  heavy  with  grease  anci  dirt. 
The  grease  covers  each  wool  fiber  with  a  thm  oily  coat,  which  pre- 
serves its  fineness  and  elasticity.  When  the  sheep  range  over  dusty 
pastures  the  dirt  readily  adheres  to  the  grease.  It  is  the  presence  of 
this  dirt  and  grease  which  gives  the  merino  fleeces  their  high  shrink- 
age. The  merino  is  very  hardy;  possesses  superior  ^^ flocking''  and 
"trailing"  qualities;  thrives  under  harsh  natural  conditions,  and 
for  tins  reason  is  a  prime  favorite  wherever  the  environment  seems 
forbidding. 

Tyfes  of  the  merino. — ^The  merino,  originally  of  Spain,  has  gone 
through  numerous  changes  in  adapting  itseK  to  new  environments. 
In  1765  it  was  taken  into  Saxony,  where  it  developed  into  the  Saxon 
merino,  the  finest  of  all  fine-wooled  sheep,  which  at  one  time  was  the 
main  source  of  raw  material  for  the  finest  broadcloths  of  England. 
The  Saxon  merino  was  once  popular  in  the  United  States  but  is  now 
seldom  found.  In  1786  the  merino  was  taken  over  the  Pyrenees 
mto  France  and  there  under  the  patronage  of  the  Government  devel- 
oped into  the  type  known  as  the  Kambouillet — a  breed  now  par- 
ticularly in  favor  in  the  United  States.  The  Kambouillet  is  larger 
than  the  original  merino  and  is  comparatively  free  from  wrinkles. 
I  he  fleece  is  dense,  with  a  good  staple.  This  type  is  the  most  com- 
mon on  tlie  ranges  in  the  Western  States  of  America.  In  1801  the 
Spanish  merino  was  introduced  into  the  United  States  and  by  care- 
ful breeding  was  developed  into  the  American  merino.  This  type 
was  origmally  characterized  by  many  folds  on  the  body  and  the 
fle^e  was  heavy,  frequently  weighmg  20  per  cent  of  the  live  weight 
of  the  animal.  It  has  undergone  various  modifications  in  recent 
years.  Probably  the  most  distinctive  of  the  American  merino  types 
are  the  delaines,  of  wliich  there  are  several  kmds.  These  sheep 
combme  mutton  quahties  with  the  production  of  fine  wool.     Delaine 


N 


32  BEPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K, 

wook  are  those. produced  ^7  ^ /f -Wo^^  '^^^^^^^ 
inches  or  better  mlen^han.1^^^^^^^^ 

are  found  chiefly  m, tlie  ii^asiem  »"JJi  ^"        "  mestiza,  metz,  or  metis 

if^tm,  rr^^^'^fj^J'^^Cti  S  tiSe  th"'e  wools,  which 

rfprXe™t>urASrica,  were  the  ones  wWch  compe^d 

were  P5°"","'"-tV  Amfirican  wool.    The  term  mestiza  is  the  bpamsn 

most  airectlj^  r^^j"  ^fCedt^  designate  wools  produced  bv  a  cross 
for''mixed   j^ndwas  usedtoa^^  ^^^.f^   ^^^^^  jUer.can 

SusheV     StioU^rep,  probably,  descended  fromsome^ 

f  ^liW^^ed  flocks  of  ^^^•,z^^:^JZi^n%'' « 

Argentma  about  1600  ^daUowMW^j  ^^  ^^  ^j^ 

wool  P^'duced  by  tlus  sheep  c^^^  ^^^  therefore  shrunk  heavily, 
grease  and  the  B^^nd  of  me  P^P*^  ^^  j  the"  American  menno, 
S:k^%:i^3"a,  -S  or  mS  are  no  longer  iu  commou 

S:SoTb  Aequ^tro'^^^^^^^  the  wool  as  possessing  mermo 

qualities.     (42  Fed.  RepM668.)      „-^         rlothin"  wools"  in  class  1 

^  I>o«m  doiAina  '«««i«;-TbV;XorXw?w^^^^^^  wools  gro^vn 
seems  to  be  little  else  than  a  tradition,  ^o^"  J  n^  ^  ^  ^j^ng  the 
on  the  medium  or  shot    woded  sh^p  o^  E^^^^^^ 

^^^^'y*  T^f„  m^  wookak  Soned.  A  number  of  the 
^  •'^TS^'onthSrri^  are  mentioned  among  the  class  2  sam- 

^eT  tef  £t  ^t  ?|ort  to^I^^^^^^^  -  Sg 

bl?  r^t  r Sder  I  -^  t^Clia.  ulJes^sT^^w^S 

Sr^^bi^rt^e'^f "  rij^f  Iv^S^^^^ 

?r^^KXtf  o^a^g^^one  of  the  Enghsh 

mutton  breeds  (seep.  3.8  .  ^^.'^f l^^^iJ;^^  ^^\ed  sheep,  swh 
by  crossing  the  mermo  with  one  of  the  long,  ^sterwo^^^         ^j^ 

J  the  Lincoln   Leicester,  or  Ronmey   orjitn  one  ^  ^^^, 

especially  the  Shropshire.    The  "se  of  the  CTOssorea  ,     ^^ 

fii^t  place,  to  the.development  of  the^zen  mutt^^^^^  ^^^^, 

as  itWame  possible  by  means  of  rWration  to  b«  p  ^^^.^j^, 

Australasia  and  Argentina,  the  ^of  ™„*^'15'!!erino  did,  but  also  a 
would  not  merelyyield  them  a  wool  crop  as  the  meM^^a^a  some  of 
meat  supply.    The  «ross  with  t^ie  mutton  breads  fij  ^ 

the  wool-producmg  qualities  of  the  merino  »««  ^\^  ^  ^  j^  com%mg 
market  lamb.    In  tie  second  P^^ce,  tiie  i^^^^^  ^^^^^^^  ^^% 

machinery,  making  it  possible  to  comb  ^^orur  w  ^ 
demand  for  wools  such  as  are  Foduced  on  the^cro^^^^^^^ 
with  the  expansion  of  the  worsted  industry  went  in  f    ^^^ 

of  crossbre.^  wools.    Crossbred  wool  is  coaler  tl^^^^         '  ^t 

making  hard  worsted  y^J^^l^.^  .^^^^^o  We  woo  because^f 
in  shrinkage  as  compared  with  the  mermo.     j.u<»d 


BEPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOABD  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


33 


I 


the  presence  of  merino  blood  are  all  classified  under  the  United 
States  tariff  as  class  1  wools. 

Third-class  wools  in  class  1. — ^At  the  time  of  the  debate  on  the  act  of 
1897  the  growers  made  the  persistent  claim  that  certain  of  the  better 
third-class  wools  were  being  used  in  the  manufacture  of  blankets  and 
coarse  clothing  and  therefore  supplanting  the  domestic  wool.  In 
order  to  meet  tliis  demand  certain  wools — ^Bagdad  wool,  China  lamb's 
wool,  Castel  Branco,  Adrianople  skin  wool,  and  Egyptian  wool — were 
taken  out  of  class  3  and  specifecally  mentioned  in  class  1  in  the  acts  of 
1897  and  1909.  Bagdad  wool,  as  the  name  indicates,  is  produced 
near  Bagdad,  Turkey.  Bagdad  wool  is  somewhat  better  than  kindred 
wools  known  as  Awassi  and  Karadi,  but  they  are  all  produced  by 
native  sheep.  Locally  Bagdad  wool  is  used  for  making  Arab  cloaks. 
China  wool  is  produced  by  the  native,  fat-rumped  and  long-legged, 
sheep  of  China.  China  lamb's  wool  is  finer  than  the  older  growth.  It 
is  limited  in  quantity.  Castel  Branco  is  a  coarse  hairy  wool  produced 
by  the  native  sheep  of  Portugal.  It  can  not  be  used  alone  in  making 
fabrics  but  may  be  mixed  with  other  wools.  Adrianople  skin  wools 
(known  as  Kassapbatchia  wools)  are  pulled  from  the  skins  of  slaugh- 
tered sheep  in  'fiirkey.  The  butchers  at  Constantinople  slaughter 
both  the  *'Karawan"  or  fat  tail,  native  breed,  and  the  "Kevergick" 
breed,  which  is  descended  from  the  Spanish  merino.  In  some  of  the 
pulleries  these  two  grades  of  wool  are  carelessly  mixed,  and  these 
mixed  wools  by  virtue  of  their  merino  blood  are  dutiable  as  class  1 
wools.  Samples  of  Kassapbatchia  wool  are  still  found  among  the 
samples  of  both  fii-st  and  tliird  class  in  the  wool  classification.  The 
better  grades  now  pay  the  higher  duty.  Egyptian  wools  are  from  fat- 
tailed  native  sheep.  The  staple  is  long,  coarse,  and  harsh,  and  must 
be  mixed  with  sorter  wools  before  it  can  be  used  in  goods.  All  these 
wools  are  produced  by  native  sheep  and  on  the  basis  of  blood  classifi- 
cation belong  in  class  3.  The  inclusion  of  them  in  class  1  modifies  to 
some  extent  the  blood  classification  of  the  tariff. 

COUNTRIES  PRODUCING  CLASS  1  WOOLS. 

Paragraph  361  now  proceeds  to  enumerate  the  localities  from 
^whicli  class  1  wools  may  be  imported,  viz,  Buenos  Aires,  New  Zea- 
land, Australia,  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  Kussia,  Great  Britain,  Canada, 
Egypt,  and  Morocco. 

South  American  wool. — Buenos  Aires  is  the  chief  point  of  export  for 
Argentine  wools.  In  1908  the  Argentine  census  reported  67,211,754 
sheep.  Ten  and  one-half  millions  of  these  were  native  or  third-class 
wool  sheep  and  a  little  over  450,000  of  them  were  English  or  second- 
class  wool  sheep.  All  the  remainder  (almost  56,000,000)  were  pro- 
ducers of  wools  of  class  1.  The  full-blood  merinos,  largely  Ram- 
bouillet,  numbered  less  than  300,000,  while  the  lincoln-Rambouillet 
cross  was  the  most  important.*  The  flocks  of  Uruguay,  numbering 
about  26,000,000,  have  a  lai^er  per  cent  of  merino  blood  than 
those  of  Argentina.  Montevideo  is  the  chief  point  of  export.  Punt  a. 
Arenas,  in  the  south  of  Chile,  has  within  recent  years  become  an 
important  point  of  export  for  wool. 


32080' 


»  See  p.  210  for  complete  tables  on  sheep  in  Argentma. 
-H.  Doc.  342,  62-2,  vol  1 3 


34  BEPOBT  or  XAKIFF  BOAED  OH  SCHEDULE  K 

Some  of  the  leading  South  American  wooL,  in  the  EugUsh  market 
aro  quoted  in  Table  1 : 

Table  l.-QuoMiam  in  Londm/or  South  Jmmean  woidi, 
[From  the droolar  of  JMamih  Schwartae  &  Co.,  Londoa.] 


Merino  and  first  super  combmp,  JOper  <«ot  ^^^"' 

Merino  good  combing,  36  per  «nt  basis • 

Merino  average,  30  per  cent  basis ■ 

Cro&5 bred  super  ( f! no ) ' 

Crossbred  flood  <inedmm) 

I»ijnte  Afenas  average ' 


CmUpn 


15.0-18.3 

12.*-15.6 
9.5-12.2 
14. 2-20. 3 
11.7-17.7 
11.7-16,7 


Cents  per 
p&nm. 
17.7-20.5 
15.2-17.5 
11.9-13.7 
18.3-21.3 
15.3-18.3 
16.7-21.3 


pound. 
19.5-30.8 
16.«>-17.7 
13.2-13.9 
20.a-21.3 
17.2-18.8 
lfi.8-2L8 


Cent*  per 

pound. 
^  'JO.  8 
2  20.3 

21^3 

a>.8 


1  45  per  cent  yield. 


1  SO  iier  cent  yield. 


It  is  cnstomarj:  to  buy  South  Ammcan^^ob^^^  ^l^n'^lo^J^ 
guaranteed  yield  m  clean  wo  .  „^  t^°|J"f  ™t  ^^^^"'refers^to 
If  a'mti;';fi^Xd\rn  :oi  i^tCflrc\rMo^  south 

^«^'«^f*?l'^?<t;-K"g;Vz^3^^^  AustraUa.  With  the 
duction  of  class  1  ^°°j!.*X^,^-u  n„mber  of  pure  English  sheep  in 
exception  of  a  comP«^a*i^7y.t™l^,^":?'r%  eitTier  mermos  or  cross- 
New'^Zealand,  the  sheep  of  Austral^f^M  6^0  she^  O^er  90  per 
breds.    In  1910  New  Zealand  had  24,-69,6-^0  s^^ieep.vr.^^^        p 

^"oftL  1      'OvefsO  per^cent  of  the  sheep  m  Austraha  are 

merinos  and  the  rest  are  crossbreds.  nnrtions 

Q^Xtions  for  the  leading  Australasian  wook  sold  on  the  auctions 

of  London  are  given  in  Table  2. 

Table  2.— Quotations  in  London/or  Australasian  wools, 
IFTom  tlie  dmOat  of  Helnrath  Schwnxtw  &  Co.,  I^don.l 


Port  Pltilllp  greasy,  snper  combing 

Port  Phillip  gr«asy,  good -  -  -  •  -  r ,- -  -  -  ■  ■ 

Port  PhilUp  scoured,  good  average  combing .. 

Sydney  greasy,  good  average.. 

Sydney  greasy,  aver^  (8lK)rt) 

Sydney  seonred.  good . . .  •------• 

Sydney  sconred,  average  (aliort) 

New  Zealand  greasy,  super 

Adelaide  graasy ,  average 

Crossbred  greasy,  super  (am).. 

Croasbred  greasy,  average  (fine) 

Cwwbred  greasy,  average  fmedium) 

Crossbred  greasy,  average  (coarse). 

Croasbred  greasy,  inferior  (common) 


pouna. 
27.4-31.4 
21.3-36.4 
38. 5-45. 6 
18.8-22.8 
1^2-20.3 
37.5-43.6 
29.4-35.5 
21.3-26.4 
13.7-17.7 
26. 4-31. 4 
19.3-2fi.4 
13.7-20.3 
11.7-18.3 
9. 4-15. 2 


Oti*«  per 
pouwi. 
^.  4-33.  :. 
24.3-29.4 
41.6-48.7 
21.3-25.9 
19.3-22.8 
39,5-46.6 
32. 4— vjf.  0 
24. 3-28. 4 
17. 2-2«).  3 
28. 4-34. 5 
22. 3-29. 4 
19-3-24.3 
15.7-20.3 
13.2-16.2 


Cents  per 
pmiwi. 
30.4-32.4 
26.4-28.4 
45.6-48.7 
23.3-25.4 
20.3-22.3 
43.6-47.7 
36.5-39.5 
26.  4-28. 4 
18.3-20.3 
30. 4-34. 5 
25. 4-28. 4 
21.3-24.8 
19.3-21.8 
16.2-18.3 


Cents  per 
poum. 
29.4 

26.4 


24.8 

22.  w 

43.  e 

33.5 

26.4 
18.3 
34.5 
27.4 

22.  S 
19.3 
17.2 


1  See  pagea  205  and  207  tor  more  detailed  ^  ol  ahaep  in  New  Zealand  .ad  AustoHa. 


BEPOKT  OF   TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDTJI^  K. 


35 


These  wools  are  classed  according  to  their  place  of  origin,  condition 
and  quahty.  Wools  designated  as  ^'Port  Plullip"  are  the  best! 
'Super  combing''  mdicates  that  the  wool  is  fitted  for  making  high 
class  worsted  yams.  "Greasy''  indicates  that  the  wool  is  sold  in 
the  conchtion  m  which  it  left  the  sheep's  back,  i.  e.,  full  of  such 
grease  and  dirt  as  may  have  accumulated  on  the  animal.  "Scoured 
wool  has  the  grease  and  dirt  removed.  These  wools  are  all  class  1 
wools. 

Within  recent  years  the  auction  sales  for  wools  in  the  leading 
cities  of  Australasia  have  thi-eatened  the  supremacy  of  London  as  a 
market  for  colonial  wools.  The  classification  of  wools  on  the  Aus- 
tralasian markets  is  substantially  the  same  as  that  of  those  in  London. 
Ihe  term  Come-back,"  however,  occurs  in  the  Austrahan  quota- 
tions. Come-baxik  wool  is  produced  by  a  sheep  with  tliree-fourths 
Menno  and  one-fourth  English  blood.  The  sheep  is  produced  by 
crossing  the  Merino  p,nd  the  English  mutton  sheep  and  then  using 
this  crossbred  as  a  foundation  for  merino  rams;  the  resulting  sheep  is 
called  a  come-back.      • 

The  prices  in  Austraha  are  as  a  rule  the  prices  of  the  London  auc- 
tions less  the  freight  rate  between  Austraha  and  the  United  Kingdom 

South  African  wools.— Cape  of  Good  Hope  and  the  other  States  of 
Bntish  South  Africa  had  in  1910  about  30,000,000  sheep,  the  majority 
of  wluch  were  producers  of  class  1  wool  There  were  a  few  pure 
native  sheep,  but  m  general  these  sheep  had  been  crossed  with 
Merinos.^  Quotations  of  the  leading  South  African  wools  are  pre- 
sented m  Table  3. 

Table  3. — Quotations  in  London  for  South  African  wools. 
[From  the  circular  of  Helmuts  Scliwartze  &  Co.,  London.] 


Kind  of  wool. 


Snow  white,  very  best  * 

Snow  white,  extxa  super » 

Snow  white,  medium  i ".I.!!!. 

Greasy  super  combing ',',[] 

Greasy  average  combing 

Greasy  Natai  average  (short) 


190S 


1909 


Cents  per 
pound. 
42.6-47.7 
3S.5-44, 
31.4-39, 
17.  ^-21. 
13. 2-17. 


11.7-15.2 


Cents  per 
pound. 
42.6-48.7 
38. 5-44. 6 
32. 4-39. 5 
19.3-22.3 
15. 2-17. 2 
13. 2-15. 2 


1910 


October, 
1911. 


Cents  per 
pound. 
48.7-50.7 
44.6-46.6 
38.5-41.6 
21.3-22.3 
17. 2-18. 3 
15. 2-16. 2 


Cents  per 

pound. 
37.5 
44.6 
35.5 
13.2 
14.7 
15.2 


1  Scoured  basis. 


The  term  "Snow  white"  refers  to  the  pecuKar  whiteness  which 
characterizes  the  best  Cape  wools.  The  best  Cape  wools  are  used  in 
the  very  finest  goods. 

Russia  produces  very  little  class  1  wool.  Some  of  the  Russian 
coarse- wooled  sheep  have  been  crossed  with  the  Spanish  merino, 
wh  ch  would  put  the  wool  m  class  1,  but  such  as  is  produced  is  gen^ 
l^^Jt^lf  ^^  wu  "i'^ "'a«turer  in  Russia.  Among  the  Trealurv 
samples  of  wool  there  is  one  of  mermo  wools  from  Russia  (Odessa, 
™^^o,  tleece,  unwashed).  ' 

Brif^fn  ?f  I***®  distinguishing  features  of  the  wool  trade  of  Great 
oPhTn^.l  '■^^^Pl'rt  of  foreign  wools.    Producing  no  class  1  wools 

miM^  hT^^'f-^^  ^"^^  °^  ^H^^\  "^^^^  ""^"^  """le  from  Great  Britain 
mustbe  foreign  wools  purchased  by  American  buyera  on  the  auctions 

>  Sm  p«ge  208  tor  further  sUtistics  of  sheep  in  South  AJrica. 


86  BEFORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 

presented  in  Table  4. 


Years. 


1907 

1908 

iiyuiii  •  ••••--•--•■-*■' 
1910 


Total  re- 
export from 
•     United 

Kingdom. 


Pounds. 
269,135,040 
312,073,305 
325,450,849 
390,106,753 
334,643,683 


Total 
reexport  to 
the  UBited 

States. 


Pounds. 
63,%7,800 
69,889,154 
57,474,119 

126,973,963 
62,467,261 


coarse  or  class  3  A\ooi  i^P^^^^  "'V/'\  pnlonial  or  other  class  1  wool 
S^nrl^L^edV^eSrC'ri^^^^^^^^  latter  cla. 

recefyJlVe  quantity  of  .coloni^  vrool,  the  precise  ongm  of  which 

^°^rirro/ciri^«^^^^ 

nrT  fKA  Tfin^ps  of  Alberta  and  Saskatchewan  the  menno  crosses  are 
?s^d%rm^^^^^^^^  Pro  Ws  where  th^^^^^^^^  P-  cent  of  the 
sheep  are  found  the  Engli^ ^j;^^^^^^^^  in  class  1  in  the 

Wools  from  Morocco  and  Egypt  ^^J®.  ®^^"^!lf„  ^  o„«,,:^h-merm^ 
re^sion  of  1897.    Morocco  wook  contain  a  strain  ^^  Spa^nsh  merino 

^XArl^^^^  i"e!  tfey  XTnSh'b^^^^^^^^ 

brids.     It  is  true  that  almost  aU  ^^^.^^^^^^^ 

Shropshire,  ^re  represented  ^^^^^^^^^^^^  anS 

are  used  for  crossing  and  ^ot  a^  pure  breds^    IZlm^^^^  are  pre- 

quotations  of  American  wools  on  the  13oston  woui  m  r 

sented  in  Table  5. 

Table  ^.—Quotutions  in  Boston  of  American  wooU.    • 


[From  Bulletin  of  Wool  Manufacturers.] 


1911, 
January- 
September. 


Ohio  Pennsylvania,  and  West  Virginia: 
\Vashed—  ^    ^ 

XX  and  above 

X.  ......"••••••*•*■■*' ••-• 

blood 

blood 

blood 

i'ine  delaine 

Unwashed — 

Fine 

I  blood 

1  blood 

I  blood 

jfine  delaine...  .t.. 


CeiUs  per 

Cents  per 

pound. 

pound. 

29-34 

34-37 

27-32 

32-35 

31-38 

3»-42 

31-37 

37-41 

30-35 

36-39 

32-38 

37-41 

20-28 

24-28 

24-32 

30-37 

24-31 

29-37 

22-29 

29-33 

24-31 

30-33i 

Cents  per 
pourCi. 
30-37 
29-35 
33-41 
33-41 
32-39 
33-39 

20-28 
28-37 
27-37 
26-35 
25-32 


Cents  per 
pound. 
27  -31 
26  -30 
30  -35 
29-34 
29-33 
29-34 

18-23 
24  -30 
23-29 
22-28 
22-27 


r 


REPORT  OF   TARIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE  K.*^'*^'"'    MaUg/|^ 

CoI'IIIiiMa  Utiiversi't^f 

Table  5.— Quotations  in  Boston  of  American  woofe-5)ontit^e#  Vork 


1908 


Hr.: 


Micliiean,  Wisconsin,  Xcw  York, 
Washed — 

i  blood 

I  blood 

I  blood .;;;.; 

Fine  delaine 

Unwashed — 

Fine 

blood ' .'  * " 

blood 

blood 

Fine  delaine 

Kentucky  and  Indiana— Unwashed:     ' 

l^^\ 

iblood 

Braid :: 

Missouri,  Iowa,  and  Illinois— Unwashed: 

I  blood 

i  blood 

Braid 

Texas — Scoured  basis: 

Spring,  fine,  12  months 

Spring,  fine,  6-8  months 

Spring,  medium,  12  months ... 

Spring,  medium,  6-8  months 

Fall,  fine 

Fall^  medium 

California— Scoured  basis: 

Spring,  Northern,  free,  12  months. . . 

Spring,  Northern,  free,  6-8  months ' 

Fall,  free 

Fall,  defective 

Territory  wool:  Montana,  Wyoming,"  UtahVldaho/Orol 
gon.  etc.— Scoured  basis: 

Staple,  fine  and  fine  medium 

Staple,  medium 

Clothing,  fine  and  fine  medium 

Clothing,  medium 

New  Mexico: 

Spring— Scoured  basis- 
No.  1 

No.  2 

No.  3 

No.  4 

Fall— Scoured  basis—  

No.l 

No.2 

No.  3 

No.  4 

Georgia  and  Southern— Unwashed . 


Cents  per 
pound. 
30-37 
30-35 
2S-33 
31-36i 

18-24J 

23-31 

23-30 

21-28 

23-2SJ 

24-30 
21-28 
18-24 

22-29 

20-27 
17-23 

50-67 
43-61 
43-59 
40-52 
38-48 
33-43 

46-^4 
41-58 
32-47 
25-40 


53-68 
48-61 
43-60 
40-52 


47-58 
38-50 
25-38 
20-30 

37-48 
31-40 
23-32 
20-28 
20-27 


1909 


Cents  per 
pound. 
37-41 
36-40 
35-39 
36-39 

22-27 
26-36 
28-36 
28-35 
28-33 

28-37 
28-35 
24-30 

27-34 
26-33 
23-30 

62-78 
53-68 
53-67 
47-62 
48-62 
43-55 

55-70 
51-65 
42-57 
33-45 


63-78 
56-73 
55-72 
52-67 


56-70 
46-60 
37-50 
34-45 

46-58 
38-52 
32-46 
30-42 
27-33 


1910 


Cents  per 
pound. 
32-40 
32-40 
31-38 
31-38 

19-27 
27-36 
27-35 
25-34 
23-31 

28-37 
»>-35 
22-30 

26-34 
24-33 
2(K-29 

58-73 
62-67 
52-67 
47-62 
48-62 
42-55 

54-68 
51-6-1 
44-55 
a3-45 


60-74 
55-68 
64-69 
50-65 


55-68 
45-58 
36-48 
34-45 

44-56 
38-.50 
33-45 
30-41 
24-31 


1911, 

January- 

Septem  ber. 


Cents  per 

pound. 
28-33 
27  -33 
27-32 
28-33 

17-21 
23  -29 
23  -28 
22J-27 
22-26 

23-29 
22-28 
20-23 

22-28 
22  -26 

19-23 

45-59 
42  -53 
42-^53 
38-48 
38  -48 
36-43 

45  -55 
42-51 
37-44 
30-37 


61  -62 
47-57 
45  -56 
40  -52 


45-56 
41  -47 
31  ^7 
30-35 


20-24 


Eastern  wools  are  sold  washed  (i.  e.,  washed  on  the  sheep's  back) 
WvT'i^^^'*^'-  !•'  "^  the  natural  grease).  The  first  quaUt/is  Pick- 
lock  and  does  not  appear  m  the  market  quotations  because  it  is  very 
"X^l-'^  '^*•'''  ^''^^'^^  produced  by  a  pure  Saxony  merino  sheep. 
q«™  JT4>1^  produced  by  a  cross  of  the  common  merino  and 
n  ^TrTi  F^  i!^^?^  "^  ^^P"'  ^  full-blooded  merino.  -X"  wool  is  from 
Lod  -  "(^^  \^^'"-f^^.^  i?"^^^-  ."Half-blood,-  -Three-eighths- 
in  f  h«  ^,  ^"^i^t^^-b-^?<>d.^  in^^  varying  percentages  of  merino  blood 
tL.A J     P  producing  the  wool.     It  should  be  noted,  however,  that 

whTrh  ^r^d  ""^^fl^  **'^  i^"*^"^^'  ^^*,"^  ^"^^  *^  *h«  bJ««d  ^  the  sheep 
^f  the  ?  W  '''^^^^  ^''''^  ^'.  to  the  relative  coarseness  and  fineness 
?L  wn!^l  •  u^M^*^"*^  ^f^^^  ^^^*^^  i^  ^  shegP  the  finer,  as  a  rule, 
ei^hZ  il  '  J'''^  V?  possible  to  have  a  wool,  fbr  example,  of  three^ 
Woorwi;  ""^  %r^*^  '*^.??  ^^-^^^  "^^«ss"  ^r  o^  a  pract  cally  full- 
eS  i^ f «.T*  1.^^^  ^^""^^  ^^'"  "half-blood,"  - three-eighths-bfood," 
Lerino  bWd  in  Thi'\''^'^^T?'l  ^«^^^«tion  with  the  proportion  if 
menno  blood  m  the  sheep  which  produced  the  wool  of  one  of  these 


I 


gg  BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 

designations;  and  when  they  «re  used  by  the  manufactarer  t^^^ 
suggest,  as  llo  the  designations  40s.. 50s.  ^Os.  etc-,  to  the  English 
manufacturer  the  working  and  spmnmg  quahty  of  the  ^"o'-   /^« 

te^'C  delaine"  indifat^  <" ■^'t^^K.'^Ttyjtldel^^^^ 
combine  of  2i  or  more  mches  m  length.  In  the  toade,  "owever, 
d^^Kr^ls  L  combing  wools  ^^ch  are  prep^ed  for  comW  ^^^^ 
carding  as  distinguished  from  the  long-luster  wools  which  are  pre 
p"ed^brforc  combing.  Braid  wool  is  a  coarse  wool 
^Western  wools  are  sold  on  the  scoured  basis-i.  e.,  the  price  mdicates 
thfiamount  paid  per  pound  for  wool  cleansed  of  its  grease.  In  Texas, 
SdifoTa  a^lfew^Iexico,  the  practice  of  shearing  t.nce  a  year- 
spring  and  fall-prevails  among  some  of  the  growers  ^"^  t\«  7"' >^ 
cLsSed  in  that  way.  The  staple  of  the  fall  chp  is  short  and  u^ed 
generally  in  felts  or  carded-woolen  goods. 

Paragraph  362.— CI-ASS  2  WOOLS. 

m».=  w«  *l,.t  «  In  eav  Leicester,  Cotswold,  Lincolnshire,  Down  combing  wools, 
cSS^^Mlr^'^c^lJngw^^^ 
the  terms  herein  used,  and  alao  hair  of  the  camel,  Angora  goai,  aii»u., »" 

asimala.  t  j.x     -v     v  v. 

Class  2  wools  are  those  grown  on  full-blood  sheep  of  the  Jl-nghsu 
tvpes^r  oiTCTOSsbreds,  othel  than  merino  crosses,  wfiich  show  a  per- 
5tfb?e  t^e  of  Enghsh  blood  The  blackface  ^f^^^-utio?  or 
Scotland  have  in  some  cases  been  crossed  Y^^h  th*  Che^^ot  m 
Leicester.  The  presence  of  the  Enghsh  Wood  n  t^.  .^°°1  P^^^"'^^^^ 
by  these  crosses  makes  it  dutiable  as  class  2771;,  „^»*^?Xr  wools 
We  been  included,  because  of  their  am^>"ty,,t°  *it  °?^j"fCi  Ru^ 
mohair,  alpaca,  and  other  like  haws.    Camel's  hair  other  than  ivuv 

sian  is  also  dutiable  under  class  2.  „,„j„norI  l,v  tlm 

Leicester,  GoUvxM,  ani  Lj«co  rM,A«re.-The  ^^"'f  P^°/"X.''y  ^ 

CKcellent  lustrous  dress  goods  and  braids. 

There  are  two  types  of  the  Leicester  sheep,  the  05i«  «f  1?^  t^^* 
BakeweU  Leicester,' the  other  the  Border  Leicester     The  Leicester 

produces  a  fleece  of  fine,  long  wool  weighmg  ^'f  ^*  .  .r^hf  tlnited 
Sotswold  has  probably  been  more  extensively  used  in  the  United 
Statrs  than  th^Leicester  or  the  Lincohi.    It  is  a  large  sheep  adap  ed 

S;th  to  wool  and  mutton  production.    T^«  ^t^'J^Fedleeo 
fleece  heavy.    The  Lincoln  w  the  largest  of  ^the  long-wooled  sheep. 
It  is  particularly  noted  for  its  long,  strong^,  lustrous  wool  a"J  for  its 
heavy  fleeces,  wfiich  weigh  14  to  16  pounds,    The  Lmcobi  and  Ron- 
ney  breeds  are  extensively  used  in  Argentma  and  N^*  Z**';*^^^^^^^^^ 

crying  with  merinos  for  the  purpff  »« "^^^^^^^  If  North  Mtak. 
of  the  lambs.    The  Cheviots,  one  of  the  hiU  breeds  of  North  Bntam, 

than  the  lustre  wools,  but,  since  the  improvement  of  <f^^^>"^f  .^^^ 
chinery,  they  can  be  readily  combed.    Some  of  the  i^?«J^,  \"^^^^^^^ 
breeds  producing  these  wools  are  the  Shropshire,  the  Oxford  Down, 
iKel^Se.    The  Shropshire  far  exceeds  in  number  any  other 


BEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE   K, 


39 


Enghsh  breed  in  the  United  States.  It  has  a  good  mutton  form  and 
produces  a  medium  wool  of  good  quahty.  It  is  frequently  used  on 
mermo  ewes  to  produce  deskable  market  lambs.  The  Oxford  is  the 
largest  of  the  Down  breeds.  It  produces  good  market  lambs  and  a 
wool  that  IS  long  and  rather  coarse.  Wool  from  the  Hampshire  is  of 
somewhat  similar  grade  to  the  Shropshire  wool,  but  the  reputation  of 
the  breed  rests  primarily  upon  its  great  value  as  a  producer  of  lambs 
for  market.  There  are  other  Down  breeds  that  might  be  mentioned, 
but  It  is  sufficient  to  indicate  here  breeds  that  are  typical.  In  general, 
these  breeds  are  good  producers  of  both  mutton  and  wool.  The  wool 
IS  coarser  than  mermo  wool  and  the  fleeces  contain  less  oil  and  dirt. 
All  Down  wools  when  imported  are  dutiable  as  wool  of  the  second 
class. 

Canada  long  wools,— When  the  act  of  1867  was  passed,  the  long 
wools  produced  on  sheep  of  the  Enghsh  breeds  in  Canada  were  the 
important  supply  of  raw  material  for  the  young  worsted  industry. 
They  are  still  by  far  the  most  important  wools  produced  in  Canada  for, 
especially  m  the  eastern  Provinces,  the  mutton  is  the  prmcipal  and 
wool  the  by-product.  The  Canadian  breeds  are  the  same  as  those  of 
England, . 

Wools  in  the  United  Kingdom.— The  United  Kmgdom  is  by  far  the 
most  important  country  producmg  class  2  wools.  Her  flocks  number 
over  31,000,000  sheep  and  lambs,  all  of  which  produce  class  2  wool, 
except  the  few  milhon  blackface  sheep  of  Scotland.  Some  of  the 
leadmg  Enghsh  wools  and  their  prices  are  reported  m  Table  6. 

Table  Q.—Qiiotations  in  England  for  leading  English  wools. 
[From  the  Bradford  Chamber  of  Commerce  report  and  the  Wool  Record.] 


Select  Kent  wethers 

North  hoggs 

North  wethers 

Select  Irisji  hoggs 

Select  Irish  wethers 

York.shire  hoggs 

Yorkshire  wethers 

Lincoln  hoggs 

Lincoln  wethers 

Wiltshire  tegs " . 

Wiltshire  ewes [ 

Nott's  half-bred  hoge:s... 
Nott's  half-bred  wethers. 
Shropshire  pick  hoggs. . . 
Shropshire  pick  wethers. 
Super  Stafford  hoggs 
Super  Stafford  wethers. . 

Southdown  tegs 

Southdown  ewes ..., 


1908 


Cents 
per  pound. 
16.2-22.8 
19. 3-25. 4 
17.2-23.3 
17.2-24.8 
14. 7-22. 3 
18. 3-22. 8 
15. 2-21. 3 
16. 2-22. 3 
13. 2-19. 8 
21. 8-24. 3 
19. 8-23. 8 
14. 2-23. 8 
15. 2-22. 8 
19.8-25.4 
19.3-23.8 
18. 8-24. 8 
17.7-23.8 


1909 


Cents 
per  pound. 
19.3-24.3 
23. 3-28. 4 
20.3-25.4 
2L8-25.9 
19.3-23.3 
21.3-23.8 
17. 2-19. 8 
18. 3-21. 8 
16. 7-18. 8 
23. 3-28. 9 
22.3-27.9 
21.3-26.4 
19.3-25.4 
24. 3-29. 4 
23. 3-27. 9 
22.3-27.4 
20.8-26.4 


1910 


Cents 
per  pound. 
21.3-25.9 
26. 4-28. 9 
23.3-26.4 
23.8-27.4 
21.8-25.4 
22. 3-24. 8 
20. 3-22. 3 
19. 3-21. 8 
18.3-20.8 
26.9-29.4 
26.9-27.9 
24. 3-26. 4 
22.8-24.8 
27. 4-29. 9 
26.»-28.9 
25.9-27.9 
24.8-26.4 
29.4^1.4 
28. 4-29. 4 


1911, 
January- 
November. 


Cents 
per  pound. 
22.3-23.3 
22.8-26.4 
22.3-23.3 
22.8-23.8 
2L3-22.3 
2L8-22.3 
20.3-20.8 
20.3-20.8 
19.8-20.3 
27.4-28.4 
26.9-27.9 


25i4-27.4 
25.4-26.9 
24.3-25.4 
23.3-24.3 
27.4-30.4 
27.4^29.4 


Teg,  hogg,  or  hogget  wool  is  wool  produced  on  a  sheep  1  year  old 
Which  has  not  previously  been  clipped.  The  fiber  is  pomted  and 
tapers  toward  the  end.  Hogg  wool  must  not  be  confused  with 
iamb  s  wool,  which  is  wool  removed  from  the  lamb  before  it  is  1  year 
Old,  say  at  the  age  of  6  or  8  months.  Shurled  hogget  wool  is  the 
tost  fleece  from  a  sheep  after  it  has  been  shorn  as  a  lamb.  In  the 
colonies  and  m  the  United  States  wether  wool  is  wool  produced  on  a 


40  REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 

EXtVe  c^^^^^^^  smaU  number  of  sheep  on  the  ranges  of 

land  for  Argentina  Lincoln  wools  are  presented  in  Table  7. 

Table  7.— Quotations  in  England  for  Argentina  Lincoln  wools. 

[Frota  tlio  circular  of  Ilelmuth  Schwartzc  &  Co.]  ___^_____ 


Lincoln  super. -- 
Linooin  average 


1908 


19C9 


1910 


Q».  per  lb. 

11.2-16.7 

9. 0-14. 7 


Cts.  per  lb. 
15.--2t).3 
13.2-16.7 


CU.  per  Ih. 
19.3-20.3 
16.2-17.2 


1911. 


CU.  per  lb. 
20.3 

17.  i 


New  Zealand  also  produces  a  small  amount  of  class  2  ^ym>L 
JMmr.^Mohair  Is  produced  by  ^ho  ^ff  ^^,^^^  ^^ece  M 

a  native  of  the  vilayet  of  Anojora,  Asia  tor.     I^P^£"^^^^^  it 

pure  white,  lustrous  hair  winch  is  from  4  to  10  i^^nes  in  len  t  . 
Unaci  in  well-formed  rindets  from  all  parts  of  the  body,     iue  iiDer 
Wt  Lui  ky^^^^^^^^  and  is  used  In  the  manufacture  of  plushes, 

Ted  t  the?o\"  in  tC iring  or  removed  by  combmg.    The  amount 
produced  by  one  goat  is  smaU.  ^  ^  j^g  „f 

*^  Alpaca.-Mpncf.  is  the  wool  wh^ch  gc^  "^^^J^s  from  7  to  15 
Peruvian  sheep,  a  genus  alUed  to  the  ^amei      xi  v 
inches  in  length  and  has  a  fair  luster.     It  is  usea  loi 

'"  Tronircoun?ries  producing  mohair  in  anv  quantity  are  Turkey 
ine  omy  couiiui^a  FY;^\     ,&^    .         mi^    Angora  goat  was  taken 
South  Africa,  and  the  United  htates      ^^^/^^^  South  Africa 

IVoiYi  Turkev  into  the  Umted  States  in  184y  ana  miu  P"";  .  . 
k^TsSfL  number  of  Angora  goats  in  Asia Jlinor  ^  "°lf  mO 
hii  still  a  ver>^  important  producmg  ^""-^^^^^t'^GlTlIope  In 
there  were  3,585,910  An-ora  goats  o^Ji'^.^!^^i,.*'Lo  United  States. 
1900  there  were  454,932  fleeces  of  mohair  ^'«'™  "^  *,^°  ^^ojucinc' 
Pern  and  contiguous  couafnes  are  the  only  countries  proaucm, 
aloaca.    Cashmere  is  produced  in  1  hibet.  „j  „„j,mprp  are  ore- 

^Quotations  in  Engird  for  alpaca,  mohair,  and  cashmere  are  pre 

sented  in  Table  8. 


■ft 


»! 


EEPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SdHEDULE  K. 

Table  8. — Quotations  in  England  for  alpaca,  mohair,  and  cashmere. 
[From  the  circular  of  Helmuth  Schwartze  &  Co.] 


41 


Almca,  super  Islajr  fleece 

Mohair,  Turkish  fair  average  (per  pound  less  5  per  cent) . 

Mohair,  Cape  firsts  (per  pound  net) 

China  cashmere,  first  brown 

China  camel's  hair,  best  firsui 


1908 


Cts.  per  lb. 
31.4-38.5 
30.4-34.0 
20.  ^26. 4 
29. 4-31. 4 
16.2-22.3 


1909 


1910 


Cts.  per  Z6. 
32.4-^6.5 
31.4-33.5 
22.a-27.4 
35.5-42.6 
22.3-28.4 


Cts.  per  lb. 
36.0-38.1 
33.0-33.5 
28.4-28.9 
30.4-36.5 
27.4-28.9 


September, 
1911. 


Cts. 


perJb. 
33.5 
31.4 

28.4 
30.7 
33.5 


Paragraph  363.— CLASS  3  WOOLS. 

Class  three,  that  is  to  say,  Donskoi,  native  South  American,  Cordova,  Valparaiso, 
native  Smyrna,  Russian  camel's  hair,  and  all  such  wools  of  like  character  as  have 
been  heretofore  usually  imported  into  the  United  States  from  Turkey,  Greece,  Syria, 
and  elsewhere,  excepting  improved  wools  hereinafter  provided  for. 

General  characteristics. — Third-class  wools  represent  a  heterogeneous 
group  of  wools  produced  by  native  sheep  in  all  parts  of  the  world. 
Wherever  they  are  grown,  it  is  a  sign  of  indifferent  breeding  or  of 
natural  conditions  which  prevent  the  raising  of  a  better  breed  of 
sheep.  If  the  shepherds  should  improve  their  flocks  by  introducing 
eithermerino  or  English  blood,  the  wool  would  immediately  be  rated 
in  a  higher  class. 

Generally  speaking,  these  wools,  because  of  the  inhospitable  con- 
ditions under  which  they  are  raised,  are  kempy — i.  e.,  having  white 
and  darl:  brittle  hau-s,  which  resist  dyeing — or  cotted — i.  e.,  matted 
or  felted.  While  some  of  these  wools  are  white,  many  are  cream- 
colored,  gray,  brown,  and  black,  or  several  of  these  colors  may  be 
found  in  the  same  fleece.  Their  fiber  is  coarse  and  covered  with  very- 
few  serrations  as  compared  with  finer  wools.  Practically  none  of 
these  wools  can  be  used  alone  in  making  cloth  such  as  is  used  in  gar- 
ments worn  by  the  American  people.  When  coarse  tweeds  and  chev- 
iots are  in  favor,  some  of  the  best  are  used  in  blending  with  better 
wools.  They  are  also  used  to  a  limited  degree  m  coarse  blankets  and 
felts.  The  carpet  industry  uses  the  great  majority  of  these  wools. 
The  best  wools  are  used  in  Wilton,  Axminster,  and  Brussels  carpets; 
the  poorer  grades  in  ingrain  carpets  and  cheap  floor  coverings. 

Russian  wools. — Donskoi  wools,  the  most  important  wools  grown 
in  Russia,  are  the  product  of  the  common,  coarse-wooled  sheep. 
They  are  an  excellent  carpet  wool,  having  a  long,  combing  staple. 
They  are  used  for  the  pile  of  Axminster  and  Wilton  carpets.  In  the 
United  States,  Donskoi  is  used  to  designate  Savolga,  Kasan,  Tscher- 
skoi,  and  Kuban  wools.  These  wools  are  similar  to  the  Donskoi  wools 
but  have  their  own  distinguishing  characteristics.  Kasan  wool, 
produced  in  the  district  of  that  name,  is  lustrous  and  has  a  downy 
undergrowth.  It  is  customary  to  subject  these  to  a  careful  washing 
after  they  are  shorn  from  the  sheep.  The  wools  are  soaked  in  tanks 
in  which  a  certain  amount  of  soap  is  used.  After  rinsing,  the  wool 
is  dried  in  the  sun.  Rostov  on  the  Don  is  the  chief  point  of  export  for 
these  wools. 

Some  of  the  best  wools  grown  in  the  Russian  Empire  are  from  the 
Province  of  Georgia,  and  are  collectively  known  as  the  Georgian  wools. 
Most  of  these  wools  are  packed  for  shipment  at  Tiflis.    Toucha  and 


42 


BEPOBT  OB*  TilEIFF  BOAKD   ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


REPOET  OP  TARIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


43 


Nouka  are  the  two  leading  grades,  the  former  being  the  better.  It 
is  used  in  high-grade  carpets.  Nouka  wool  contains  some  colored 
hairs  and  is  used  in  medium-grade  carpets.  These  wools  are  not 
generally  washed  after  shearing. 

Central  Asian  woofe.— Wools  from  Central  Asia  are  known  as  Bo- 
khara wools,  Turkestan,  Merv,  and  Transcaspian  wools,  and  Calmuc 
wools.  Bokhara  wools  are  shipped  from  the  city  of  that  name. 
They  are  gray  or  black  and  well  adapted  to  feltmg.  Turkestan, 
Merv,  and  Transcaspian  wools  are  similar  to  Bokhara  wool  and  used 
in  medium-grade  carpets.  Calmuc  wools  are  grown  on  sheep  owned 
by  the  nomadic  tribes  of  Kherghiz.  The  sheep  have  no  care  and  m  a 
result  the  wool  is  coarse  and  kempy .  It  is  used  only  in  low-grade 
carnets. 

The  trade  in  Afghan  wools  from  Afghanistan,  the  Kliorassan  wools 
from  the  eastern  part  of  Persia,  the  Kashgar  wools  from  Chinese 
Turkestan,  the  Urga  wool  from  central  MongoHa,  and  Manchurian 
wool  from  eastern  Mongolia  are  handled  largely  by  Russian  mer- 
chants. The  Kashgar  wools  are  the  best  of  this  group  and^  are  used 
now  by  the  Russians  to  make  woolen  cloth.  Afghan  and  Khorassaii 
wools  have  about  40  per  cent  of  colored  fiber.  The  autumn  clij)  is 
used  in  coarse  felts.  iJrga  is  a  high-grade  carpet  wool;  Manchurian 
wool  is  used  in  low-grade  carpets,  and  is  less  valuable. 

TMrd-chss  wools  tn  South  America. — Native  South  American  wools 
are  grown  on  the  Criolla  sheep  wliich  are  descended  from  the  churro 
and  aconchada  races  of  Spain.  Wools  shipped  from  Valparaiso, 
Chile,  are  known  as  Valparaxso  wools.  Cordova  wools  are  i^^rown  and 
packed  for  market  in  the  Provinces  of  Cordova  and  San  Lius,  Argen- 
tma.  All  South  American  third-class  wools  are  of  good  quality  and 
are  used  in  making  high-grade  carpets.  These  wools  are  declining 
in  supply,  due  to  the  crossing  of  the  native  sheep  with  improved 

Wools  in  Asia.— In  paragraph  363  the  only  terms  used  to  designate 
the  many  third-class  wools  produced  in  Asia  are  "native  Smyrna"  and 
**Syria.'^  All  wools  produced  in  Asia,  except  the  Panderma  wool 
which  has  some  infusion  of  Merino  blood,  and  Bagdad  wool  and  Cluna 
lamb's  wool  which  are  arbitrarily  classed  as  first-class  wools,  belong 
to  the  third  class.  ''Native  Smyrna  wooF'  belongs  to  the  Angora 
group  of  wools  raised  in  Asia  Minor.  They  contain  very  httlo  colored 
wool  and  are  adapted  to  making  the  best  carpets.  Smyrna  is  a  great 
carpet  manufacturing  center  and  tliis  industry  uses  much  of  this  wool. 
The  wools  from  Syna  are  known  as  Aleppo,  Orfa,  Damascus,  and 
Jaffa  wools.  These  wools  are  imported  washed ;  they  are  long  comb- 
ing wools  and  are  very  choice  for  making  carpets.  From  Mesopo- 
tamia are  exported  tlie  Bagdad  wool  (now  class  1  wool),  the  Awassi 
and  the  Karadi  wools.  Sometimes  whole  fleeces  of  these  wools  are 
colored  and  all  have  more  or  less  gray  hair  in  them.  Bussorah  wool 
is  more  irregular  and  tender  than  the  Awassi  and  Elaradi  wools  and 
its  shrinkage  is  heavier. 

Wools  from  India.— Wools  exported  from  India  (59,826,526  pounds 
IB  1909-10)  are  all  third-class  wools.  Most  of  them  are  sent  to  Liver- 
pool, where  they  are  sold  at  auction.  They  are  collectively  designated 
as  East  India  wools.  Joria  is  the  finest  of  these  wools.  Yicanere  wool 
ranks  next  to  Joria  in  quality,  and  is  sometimes  used  in  making 
homespun  and  cheviots.     Kandahar  wools,  which  come  into  India 


■'Vi 


I 


from  Southern  Afghanistan,  are  the  best  Indian  carpet  wools  and 
from  tliis  wool  the  natives  produce  the  well-known  Indian  carpets. 
Pacputan  wools  are  of  lower  grade  than  the  Kandahar  and  are  used 
for  cheap  carpets. 

Wools  from  Chirm, — Cliina  produces  about  one-third  of  the  wool 
of  the  tliii'd  class  imported  into  the  United  States.  The  central, 
northern,  and  western  parts  of  China  are  the  wool-growing  regions 
and  Shanghai  and  Tientsin  are  the  cliief  centers  for  sorting,  cleaning, 
and  shippmg  the  wools.  China  wools  vary  in  condition,  coarseness, 
color,  and  in  every  otlier  way,  and  many  of  them  are  without  any 
specific  name.  Tlie  term  China  Ball  wool,  often  seen  in  market 
reports,  is  wool  from  northern  China  and  is  in  the  form  of  rolls  or 
balls  of  wool  which  have  been  combed  or  torn  from  the  sheep.  Some 
of  these  are  of  fine  grade. 

CUss  S  xDool  in  Europe. — Turkey  and  Greece  are  mentioned  as 
sources  of  class  3  wools.  The  only  third-class  wool  grown  in  Turkey 
is  the  Albanian  wool  and  in  Greece  the  Volo  wool.  The  poorer  grades 
of  the  Kassapbatcliia  or  pulled  wool  from  the  puUeries  of  Constanti- 
nople and  other  centers  are  dutiable  as  class  3  wools.  As  for  Europe 
in  general,  the  amount  of  coarse  wool  raised  is  of  small  and  decreasing 
importance.  There  is  some  coarse  wool  in  France  and  Spain  known 
as  Pyrenean  wool  and  in  Austria-Hungary  as  Zackel  wool.  Much 
more  important  than  these  is  the  Blackface  wool  of  Scotland— a  wool 
which  is  a  carpet  wool  par  excellence.  It  grows  on  the  picturesque 
sheep  of  the  Scotch  Highlands  and  in  some  respects  has  no  rival  in 
tlie  world.  American  merchants  are  now  buying  most  of  the  wool 
produced  in  Iceland.  The  fine,  downy  undergrowth  of  these  wools 
yields  a  good  noil  when  combed.     They  are  excellent  carpet  wools. 

Rmsian  cameVs  Mir. — The  chief  use  of  camel's  hair  is  in  making 
bagging  for  pressing  cotton  seed.  For  this  purpose  the  long,  strong 
hau-s  are  tlie  most  desirable.  Orenburg  is  a  large  center  for  the  sale 
of  Russian  cameFs  hair. 

Number  of  native  sheep,— StSLtistics  relating  to  the  number  of  sheep 
producing  class  3  wool  are  only  approximately  correct.  Countries 
which  have  only  native,  unimproved  sheep  are  generally  deficient  in 
careful  statistical  reports.  Figures  given  are  estimates.  The  num- 
ber of  sheep  in  the  Kussian  Emphe,  including  the  Asiatic  Provinces, 
is  about  80,000,000;  m  the  Ottoman  Emphe,  41,000,000;  in  Chma, 
19,000,000;  in  British  India  (excluding  the  native  states),  18,000,000: 
m  Persia,  3,700,000;  and  in  Iceland,  500,000.  There  are  still  about 
10,500,000  native  sheep  in  Argentina.  The  number  of  sheep  produc- 
mg  class  3  wool  is  declining,  for  improved  breeds  are  in  many  coun- 
tries bemg  crossed  with  native,  which  immediately  takes  the  wool  out 
of  class  3. 

Prices  of  class  3  vxxds.—ln  the  majority  of  cases  wool  of  class  3  is 
^ught  bjr  pnvate  agreement  by  dealers  in  the  country  of  origin  and 
slapped  du-ect  to  the  consuming  country.  Quotations  on  class  3  wools 
lor  this  reason  are  not  so  common  as  for  other  wools.  London  quota- 
tions for  some  of  these  wools  are  presented  in  Table  9. 


1!«1S-«P«1I»1H»III 


44 


BEPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOABI>  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 

Table  9. — Quotatiana  in  Ijmdmi  of  wools  of  the  third  class. 

J, From  the  circuliir  of  Helmuth  Schwartze  &  Co.,  London.] 


East  India: 

Joria,  best  whit© 

Candahar,  best  white 

Pac  Pathan,  yellow 

Persian  Bagdad,  fair  averase 

Kassapbatchi,  first  white 

SjTian  unwashed 

Oporto  white  fieeoe 

Bonskoi,  average  white  caMinp 

Camel's  hair,  average,  Orenburg. . . 

China  wool 

Scotch  Blackface  wool ' 


1006 


Cts. 
IB. 
13, 
13. 

9. 
11. 

7. 
13. 
12. 
10, 
12 

9. 


per  lb. 
7-19.3 
7-18.3 
7-16.2 
4-11.7 
2-14.2 
6-9.6 
7-18.3 
7-16.  7 
1-13.2 
2-14.2 
6-15.2 


1909 


Cts.  per  lb. 
17. 7-25. 9 
16. 2-20. 3 
14.2-16.2 
12.2-13.9 
12. 2-13.  7 
10.6-11.7 
14. 2-17. 2 
14.2-16.2 
13. 2-15. 2 
14.7-16.7 
11.9-16.2 


1910 


Cts.  per  lb. 
23.^26.4 
19.3-20.8 
15.2-16.7 
14.2-14.7 
12.7-13.2 
10.1-11.2 
16.2-17.2 
16.2-16.7 
15.2 
17.7 
13.  7-15. 7 


September, 

1911. 


Cts, 


per  lb. 
21.3 
19.3 
16.2 


12.2 
10.1 
16.2 
16.7 
16.7 
17.7 
14.6 


»  From  the  reiwt  of  the  Bradfurd  Chamber  of  Commerce. 
Paragraph  364.— STANI>ARI>  SAMPLES. 

The  Btandard  eamples  of  all  wools  which  are  now  or  may  be  hereafter  deposited  in 
the  principal  customhouses  of  the  United  States,  under  the  authority  of  the  Secretary 
of  the  Treasury,  shall  be  the  etandards  for  the  clasaificatiou  of  woola  under  this  act, 
and  the  Secretary  of  the  Treasury  is  authorized  to  renew  these  etandards  and  to  make 
Buch  additions  to  them  from  time  to  time  as  may  be  required,  and  he  shall  cause  to  bo 
deposited  like  standards  in  other  cuetomhouees  of  the  United  States  when  they  may 
be  needed. 

The  standard  samples  of  all  wools  prepared  under  the  authority  of 
paragraphs  352  and  353  of  tlie  act  of  1897  are  in  force  under  the  pres- 
ent law  with  one  exception.  At  that  time  tlie  cabhiet  of  wool  sam- 
ples to  be  used  in  the  principal  customhouses  of  the  United  States  for 
•the  purpose  of  classifymg  wools  imported  was  prepared  in  accordance 
with  instructions  from  tlie  Treasury  Department  hj  WilUam  H. 
Dimond,  examiner  of  wool  at  the  port  of  Boston.  1  he  samples  of 
wool  are  placed  in  jars.  The  cabinet  as  made  by  Mi\  Dimond  con- 
tained 49  jars  with  samples  of  noils,  waste,  shoddy,  mungo,  flocks, 
and  rags;  127  jars  with  samples  of  class  1  wools;  44  jars  with  samples 
of  class  2  wools;  110  jars  with  samples  of  class  3  wools,  and  29  jars 
with  samples  of  goat  and  cattle  hair.  Each  sample  is  designated  in 
the  complete  list  given  in  Treasury  Decision  No.  20681,  made  on 
December  20,  1900.  The  only  change  in  wool  classification  made 
since  then  is  recorded  in  Treasury  Decision  No.  30786,  made  on 
July  15,  1910.  This  decision  withdrew  from  the  cabinet  samples 
Nos.  137  and  138,  which  classified  Cape  of  Good  Hope  native  skin 
wool  in  class  1,  and  placed  these  wools  among  the  class  3  wools  under 
the  No.  399-B.  .  .  ^     , 

When  wools  are  imported  they  are  classified  by  companson  with  the 
samples  in  the  jars.  These  samples  are  based  on  the  blood  classifica- 
tion and  determine  conclusively  whether  a  wool  is  dutiable  under 
classes  1,  2,  or  3. 


BEPOKT  OF  TABIFF  BOAED  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 
Paragraph  365.— IMPROVED  WOOLS. 


45 


Whenever  wools  of  class  three  shall  have  been  improved  by  the  iadmixture  of  merino 
or  English  blood,  from  their  present  character  as  represented  by  the  standard  samples 
now  or  hereafter  to  be  deposited  in  the  principal  customhouses  of  the  United  States, 
such  improved  wools  shall  be  classified  for  duty  either  as  class  one  or  as  class  two,  as 
the  case  may  be. 

All  native  wools  as  soon  as  they  are  improved  to  any  perceptible 
extent  by  the  infusion  of  merino  or  English  blood  are  thereby  made 
dutiable  under  either  first  or  second  class.  The  provision  in  para- 
graph 365  has  classed  wool  from  the  Cheviot-Blackface  and  Leicester- 
Blackface  crosses  in  class  2  and  the  merino-native  crosses  found  in 
South  Africa,  Argentina,  Morocco,  and  Asia  in  class  1.  The  phrase 
"improved  by  the  admixture  of  merino  or  English  blood,''  however, 
has  Deen  held  to  mean  that  there  must  be  sufficient  admixture  of 
blood  to  characterize  the  wool  as  improved,  and  that  Cape  sheepskins 
which  are  of  inferior  character  and  contain  much  hair  and  kemp  are 
not  witliin  the  purview  of  this  provision.     (T.  D.  28632.) 

Paragraphs  366  and  367.— UNWASHED,  WASHED,  AND  SCOUHED 

WOOLS. 

366.  The  duty  on  wools  of  the  first  class  which  shall  be  imported  washed  shall  be 
twice  the  amount  of  the  duty  to  which  they  would  be  subjected  if  imported  unwashed: 
and  the  duty  on  wools  of  the  first  and  second  classes  which  shall  be  imported  scoured 
shall  be  three  times  the  duty  to  which  they  would  be  subjected  if  imported  unwashed. 
The  duty  on  wools  of  the  third  class,  if  imported  in  condition  for  use  in  carding  or 
spinning  into  yarns,  or  which  shall  not  contain  more  than  eight  per  centum  of  dirt; 
or  other  foreign  substance,  shall  be  three  times  the  duty  to  which  they  would  oth^- 
wise  be  subjected. 

367.  Unwashed  wools  shall  be  considered  such  as  shall  have  been  shorn  from  the 
sheep  without  any  cleansing;  that  is,  in  their  natural  condition.  Washed  wools  shall 
be  considered  such  as  have  been  washed  with  water  only  on  the  sheep's  back,  or  on 
the  skin.  Wools  of  the  first  and  second  classes  washed  in  any  other  maimer  than  on 
the  sheep's  back  or  on  the  skin  shall  be  considered  as  scoured  wool. 

Nature  of  woolin grease . — ^'Unwashed  wools,''  paragraph  367  statues, 
''shall  be  considered  such  as  shall  have  been  shorn  from  the  sheep 
•without  any  cleansing."  Unwashed  wool  is  also  known  as  "wool  in 
the  grease."  This  is  the  natural  condition  of  wool.  Aside  from  the 
wool  fiber,  wool  in  the  grease  is  composed  of  {a)  wool  fat,  (Jb)  perspi- 
ration, and  (c)  the  impurities  or  dirt  which  mechanically  adhere  to 
the  wool.  The  wool  fat  and  perspiration  together  are  known  as  the 
yolk  or  suint.  The  wool-fat,  which  is  secreted  as  a  protection  to  the 
wool  fiber,  is  valuable  and  is  sometimes  reclaimed.  It  is  known  in 
commerce  as  degras.  It  is  a  clear,  greasy  material,  soluble  in  ether 
or  naphtha.  The  perspiration  is  composed  of  potassium  salts,  which 
are  soluble  in  water.  Greasy  wool,  i.  e.,  unwashed  wool,  is  moet 
common  in  the  market.  Washed  wool  is  least  common,  and  scoured 
wool  is  found  in  considerable  quantities  in  some  grades  of  wool. 

Nature  of  washed  wool — Paragraph  367  specifies  that  ''Washed 
wools  shall  be  considered  such  as  have  been  washed  with  water  only 
on  the  sheep's  back  or  on  the  skin."  Washed  wools  are  also  referred 
to  as  fleece-washed,  brook-washed,  or  back-washed  wools.  The 
process  of  washing  is  very  simple.  A  few  days  before  shearing  the 
sheep  are  either  driven  into  a  shallow  stream  where  the  wool  is 
squeezed  and  rinsed  while  on  the  back  of  the  sheep,  or  where  the 
pollution  of  the  streams  is  forbidden,  or  where  it  is  desired  to  reclaim 


46 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


EEPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


47 


II 


the  waste,  the  sheep  may  be  washed  in  vats.  The  result  of  wasliinff 
is  to  increase  the  per  cent  of  clean  wool  in  a  fleece  by  tlie  removal 
of,  first,  the  dirt  mechanically  adhering  to  the  wool,  and  second,  the 
perapiration  wMch,  as  has  been  said,  is  soluble  in  water. 

Washing  doss  3  wools, — ^Wools  may  be  waslied  otherwise  than  on 
the  sheep's  back  or  on  the  skins  and  still  be  washed  wools.  The  last 
clause  of  paragraph  367  says  that  ''Wools  cf  the/r«^  or  seamL  classes 
washed  in  any  other  manner  than  on  the  slieep's  back  or  on  the  skin 
shall  be  considered  as  scoured  wool."  Nothmg  is  said  here  about 
third-class  wools.  It  therefore  follows  that  these  wools  may  be 
washed  after  they  are  removed  from  the  sheep's  back,  i.  e.,  tub- 
washed,  provided,  as  stated  in  the  last  clause  of  paragraph  366,  the 
"washing  shall  leave  at  least  8  per  cent  of  dirt  or  other  foreign 
substances"  in  the  wool.  In  some  of  the  countries  producing  class  3 
wools  the  wools  are  washed  after  shearing. 

Scouring  as  defined  hy  the  law. — Scouring  as  defined  in  paragraphs 
366  and  367  is  not  preciselv  the  same  as  scouring  in  the  industiy. 
The  former  does  not  include  as  much  as  the  latter.  Wools  of  tho 
first  and  second  classes  to  be  classed  ''scoured"  under  the  tarilf  need 
only  to  be  waslied  in  some  way  other  than  on.  the  sheep's  back  or 
on  the  skin  Oast  clause  of  367).  Wools  of  tlie  third  class  are  classed 
as  scoured  when  they  are  "in  condition  for  use  in  carding  or  spiiming 
into  yams"  or  when  they  do  "not  contain  more  tlian  8  per  cent  of  dirt 
or  otner  foreign  substances"  Oast  clause  of  366). 

Scouring  in  the  industry. — The  manufacturer  buys  his  wool  either 
scoured,  washed,  or  in  the  grease.  Wlien  he  receives  it  in  either  of 
the  last  two  states  he  must  scour  it.  This  is  a  process  of  cleansing 
the  fiber  ready  for  the  carding  process.  Its  object  is  to  remove 
mechanically  the  wool  fat,  the  perspiration,  and  the  dirt  adhering 
to  the  wool.  Of  course,  if  tlie  wool  be  properly  washed  before  pur- 
chase, it  is  only  necessary  to  remove  the  wool  fat  in  order  to  have 
clean  wool.  These  foreign  materials,  if  left  on  the  wool,  would  pre- 
vent "working"  in  subsequent  processes,  and  the  wool  carrying  them 
would  not  readily  take  the  mordants  and  dyes  in  the  dyehouse. 

Methods  of  scouriwg. — In  scouring  in  the  United  States  and  in  the 
United  Kingdom  it  is  most  conmion  to  subject  the  wool  to  a  potash 
soap  bath.  If  the  wools  were  unwashed,  the  potash  salts  in  the  wool 
(i.  e.,  perspiration)  may  be  sufficient  to  scour  the  wool  without  the 
addition  ot  soap.  The  wool  is  passed  along  through  a  series  of  tuba 
by  means  of  mechanically  operated  rakes  or  forks.  The  water  is 
warm  and  mixed  with  such  chemicals  as  ammonia,  sodium  carbonate, 
etc.  Between  each  tub  is  a  pair  of  nip  rollers,  through  wliich  the 
wool  is  passed.  The  solution  is  thereby  squeezed  back  mto  each  tub 
and  the  wool  passed  along  into  the  comparatively  clean  solution  of 
the  next  tub.  As  a  rule,  the  wool  will  be  in  the  solution  about  eight 
minutes  and  in  that  time  pass  through  the  series  of  tubs,  from  48  to 
60  feet  in  length. 

Another  method  of  scouring,  which  is  of  growing  importance,  is 
known  as  the  degreasing  process.  The  wool  is  subjected  to  the  action 
of  petroleum-naphtha,  which  dissolves  the  wool  fat,  and  then  to  a 
water  bath,  which  removes  the  potash  salts.  While  requiring  more 
machinery  and  the  use  of  dangerous  materials,  this  process  has  the 
eminent  advantage  of  reclaiming  the  wastes  of  the  wool.    By  subse- 


quently volatilizing  the  petroleum-naphtha  the  wool  fat  or  degras  is 
reclaimed.     The  potash  salts  may  also  be  reclaimed  from  the  water. 
Double  duty  on  class  1  washed  wools. — Wools  of  class  1,  as  stated  in 
the  first  clause  of  paragraph  366,  when  they  are  imported  washed, 
i.  e.,  washed  on  the  sheep ^s  back  or  on  the  skin,  are  to  pay  "twice 
the  amount   of    the  duty  to  which    they  would    be  subjected  if 
imported  unwashed."    Just  what  "twice  the  amount  of  the  duty" 
means  was  a  subject  early  submitted  to  the  courts  (9  Fed.  Cas.,  573). 
The  importer  contended  in  this  case  that  the  duty  should  be  computed 
on  the  estimated  unwashed  weight  of  the  wool  and  the  amount  of 
the  duty  then  doubled.     The  Government  contended  that  the  law 
meant  twice  the  rate  of  duty  times  the  number  of  pounds  of  washed 
wool.     The  Government's  contention  was  sustained.^     The  duty  in 
the  act  of  1909  on  unwashed  wool  of  class  1  is  11  cents  per  pound.     By 
.  paragraph  366  the  duty  on  washed  wool  of  this  class  is  made  22 
cents  per  pound.     Washing  wool  on  the  sheep's  back  (except  for 
English  wools)  is  becoming  less  and  less  common,  and  no  statistics 
are  available  to  show  how  much  a  fleece  shrinks  in  the  washing. 
Since,  however,  wools  are  sold  on  the  basis  of  their  clean  weight,  the 
difference  in  price  between  washed  and  unwashed  wools  on  the  Bos- 
ton market  gives  some  indication  of  shrinkage  in  washing.     The 
shrinkage  by  this  test  is  not  over  15  or  20  per  cent.     At  least,  it  is 
certain  that  wools  do  not  shrink  50  per  cent  in  washing.     The  quan- 
tity of  washed  wools  of  class  1  imported  is  almost  negligible,  which 
would  indicate  that  more  clean  wool  can  be  imported  for  a  given  sum 
by  paving  11  cents  per  pound  on  the  greasy  weight  than  22  cents  per 
pound  on  the  washed  weight. 

No  double  duty  on  washed  class  2  and  class  8  wools. — Washed  wools  of 
class  2  and  class  3  are  subject  to  the  same  duty  as  unwashed  wools. 
When,  in  1867,  the  present  classification  of  wools  was  made,  the 
then  infant  worsted  industry  used  onlj  the  long  English  wools  of 
class  2.  Under  the  reciprocity  treaty  with  Canada  (1854-1866)  this 
mdustry  had  enjoyed  free  raw  material.  In  Canada  and  England, 
the  only  two  countries  producmg  class  2  wools  in  any  quantity,  the 
custom  of  fleece  washing  wools  was  general.  It  was  contended  that 
under  these  conditions  a  double  duty  on  class  2  wools  would  be 
equivalent  to  a  prohibition  of  their  importation.  Since  these  wools 
were  not  grown  m  the  United  States,  growers  made  no  serious  objec- 
tion and  the  duty  was  not  doubled  when  they  were  imported  washed. 
The  conditions  were  similar  regarding  class  3  wools.  In  many  sec- 
tions where  these  wools  were  raised  washmg  the  wool  was  JSmily 
fixed  in  the  customs  of  the  people,  as  it  still  is  to-day,  and  any  effort 
to  change  the  custom  would,  it  was  said,  be  futile.  The  provision 
regarding  the  washing  of  these  wools  is  even  m^ore  hberaf  than  on 
class  2  wools.  Class  3  wools  may  be  washed  after  they  leave  the 
sheep  s  back,  as  is  the  custom  in  some  countries,  and  if  the  process 
leaves  at  least  8  per  cent  of  du-t  m  the  wool,  it  is  still  subject  only 
to  the  smgle  duty.  ^ 

Tnphduty  on  scoured  wool— When  wool  of  any  class  is  imported 
scoured  (i.  e.,  scoured  as  defined  by  the  law),  it  is  subject  to  a  duty 
mree  times  the  duty  on  greasy  wool  of  the  same  classification.    This 

leK^wr1^Mm?r'5n^l?^*-  ^'  ^'^-  ,  ^^^  °^  ^"^  ^  "^"^^  "°<*«'"  ^^^  ^^  o^  1867  were:  Valued  at  32  cents  or 
vSS^atl  ^  pound+n  per  cent;  valued  over  32  cents  per  pound,  12  cents  per  pound+10 


48 


KEPOBT  OF  TAEIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


provision  fixes  the  duty  on  scoured  wool  of  class  1  at  33  cents  per 
pound:  on  scoured  wool  of  class  2  at  36  cente  per  pound;  and  on 
scoured  wool  of  class  3  at  12  or  21  centsper  pound.  In  order  to 
havTthe  triple  duty  on  a  parity  with  the  single  duty  on  greasy. wool 
aU  wook  should  BhLk  in  scouring  66i  per  cent  The  great  majority 
of  f^S  wools,  however,  shrink  less  than  66§  per  cent  Sixty-six 
^d  tw^thirds  per  cent  is  very  near  the  maximum  shrinkage,  while 
wools  and  hairs  shrink  all  the  way  down  to  10  or  15  per  cent. 

Faragraph  368.— SOBTING  CLAUSE. 

The  dntv  nDon  wool  of  the  sheep  or  hair  of  the  camel,  Angora  goat  alpaca,  and  other 
Hte  animSs^  eSas  one  and  clis  two,  which  shall  be  imported  in  any  o  her  than 
^In^^f^'dftion^r  which  haa  been  «^rted  or  iucrea^ed  in  value  by  the  rejection  of 
^vS  of  A^  Si^lT^e.  shall  be  twice  the  duty  to  which  it  would  be  otherwise 
^Lf^-PrmlM  rLt  skirted  wools  aa  imported  in  eighteen  hundred  and  ninety 
^^nrior  tihereto  arehereby  excepted.  The'^duty  upon  wool  of  the  Bheep  or  hair  of 
Se  cSXora  ^t,  alpaca  a^nd  other  like  animate  of  any  c la^  I^,l'\f;hich 
Saneed  in  itechaiScter  or  condition  for  the  purpose  of  evading  the  duty,  or  wmcn 
B^ie  reduced  in  value  by  the  admixture  of  dirt  or  any  other  foreign  substance,  shall 
^^ce  the  duty  to  whict  it  would  be  otherwise  subject.  When  the  du  y  assessed 
noorany  wool  eqmOs  three  times  or  more  that  which  would  be  assessed  i{^^'d  ^o"] 

wK^rred^un^a«hed,  the  duty  shall  not  be  ttidl'^hr^t  invoiced  or  enS 
sorted     If  any  bale  or  package  of  wool  or  hair  specified  m  this  act  invoiced  or  enierea 

Molany Weired  class"  or  c&imed  by  the  importer  to  be  f  "'f  "f  as  of  any  s^ed 
cLs,  Bhalfcontain  any  wool  or  hair  subject  to  a  higher  rate  of  <l"«y  ^„*"  *«  ^PIT 
Sed,  the  whole  bile  or  package  shall  be  subject  «  *«  I'lg'j,^' ™'^^!,1"^^^^^^^ 
aVle  on  wool  of  the  class  sub  ect  to  such  higher  rate  of  ^"^5^  »°\"  ?"y  °*  ?  "' P^^ 
be  claimed  hv  the  importer  to  be  shoddy,  mungo,  flocks,  wool,  hair,  or  other  material 

mnr^M  Baifl  niaterials.  or  of  any  other  material,  the  whole  bale  or  package  enaii  oe 
Xct  tTdu?;?^aX  4heet  lie  imposed  uiK)n  any  article  in  said  bale  or  package. 

SoHing  as  defined  in  paragraph  30S,—Wooh  in  order  to  be  "sorted," 

m  define^d  by  paragraplT  368   must  ^^^^^^^«^ /^^^f ^.^^^^^^^^ 
the  rejection  of  any  part  of  the  original  fleece/      ItJoUows  from  thia 
that  where  sorting  has  decreased  the  value  of  the  ^^F^^^^f,  f/^^^^^^^ 
the  elimination  of  the  better  sorts,  only  the  latter  and  not  the  former 

are  classed  as  sorted  wool.  (G.  A.  797.)  .  ^  .  .,  ,  •fl^^+ir.^^f 
Sorting  as  a  process. -^Sort'mg  in  the  industry  is  the  cla^sificat  on  of 
the  woof  fibers  in  a  fleece  according  to  lengtli,  soundness,  elasticity, 
fineness,  and  color.  When  the  fleeces  reach  the  «^^^/;,^,^  P^^^^^ 
on  a  table  and  with  great  skiU  and  accuracy  «;^l>f  ^^^^Sf  %^^^ 
sorts  requb-ed  bv  the  yams  on  which  the  mill  is  Avorking.  ihis 
process,  which  is  prelimmaiT  to  manufacturing,  is  made  necessary  by 
the  varVmg  quality  of  wool  on  different  parts  of  tlie  sheep  s  body. 
The  finer  sorts,  such  as  those  on  the  shoulder  and  back  of  the  sheep, 
are  used  in  making  finer  yams  than  are  made  from  the  tlownrignt, 

^%uhU^Sf^  '^^  t/^ofe.-When  wools  are  sorted  or  increased  in 
value  by  the  rejection  of  any  part  of  ^i^^ .^^\gf  *H.f^??^,^^,^^^'^^^^ 
which  have  been  increased  in  value  are  subject  to  ,  t^vlce  the  duty 
to  which  they  would  be  * '  otherwise  subject.'^  It  ^W^^^^^^^^J^^^^^^^ 
note  two  tliihgs:  First,  that  sorts  of  wool  less  valuable  than.the  ^;  ,^^^ 
fleeces  from  which  they  are  removed  are  not  subject  to  the  double 
duty;  and,  secondly,  that  the  duty  is  not  twice  the  duty  on  greasy 
Toll  but'twice  the  duty  to  which  it  would  be  ^thei^se  subie^^^^ 
Under  this  clause  the  rato  of  duty  on  classes  1  and  2  wools  which 
are  both  scoured  and  sorted  would  be  66  and  72  cents  per  pound, 


BEPORT  OF   TARIFF   BOARD  ON   SCHEDULi^^Stic«I   Llllii«t«lftr 

Hall 


the  duty  assessed  upon  any  wool  equals  three  times  or'Tnoi^  vixav 
which  would  be  assessed  if  said  wool  was  imported  unwashed,  the 
duty  shall  not  be  doubled  on  account  of  the  wool  being  sorted."'  In 
spito  of  this  proviso,  the  double  duty  on  sorted  wools  virtually  acts 
to  prevent  the  importation  of  sorted  wool. 

The  double  duty  on  sorted  wool  was  never  intended  to  protect 
the  process  of  sorting,  which  is  comparatively  inexpensive.  Ijbs  pur- 
pose was  to  make  effective  the  rates  of  duty  on  wool  and  to  prevent 
the  importation  of  only  the  choice  parts  of  the  fleeces.  In  operation 
It  acts  to  exclude  from  the  United  States  all  sorted  wool  oflTered  for 
sale  abroad,  and  this  affects  in  particular  pulled  wool,  which  is  com- 
monly sorted  when  pulled. 

SJartincf  cZaj^^.— Skirtmg  is  a  practice,  most  common  in  Australia, 
of  removing  from  the  edges  of  whole  fleeces  the  stained  or  inferior 
locks,  such  as  grow  on  the  belly,  legs,  and  neck  of  the  sheep.     Under 
the  law  of  1883  the  Treasury  Department  had  held  that  skirted  wools 
were  not  sorted  and  therefore  not  subject  to  double  duty.     In  the 
revision  of  1890  the  growers  were  emphatic  in  then-  demand  that 
sku-ted  wools  be  reguu-ed  to  pay  the  double  duty,  but  the  manufac- 
turers were  successful  in  then-  cont^ention  that  skirted  wools  are  not 
sorted  wools.     The  result  of  the  contest  was  the  proviso  in  the  sort- 
ing clause  of  the  law  of  1890,  'Hhat  sku-tcd  wools  as  now  imported 
are  hereby  excepted.''     Skirting  now  is  the  same  process  that  it  was 
m  1890,  but  in  order  to  prevent  the  abuse  of  the  proviso,  only  those 
wools  from  countries  where  skirting  was  practiced  in  1890  are  excepted 
from  the  sorting  paragraph.     The  proviso  in  the  present  law,  therefore, 
reads:     lliat  sku-ted  wools  as  imported  in  1890  and  prior  thereto  are 
hereby  excepted."     In  1891  it  was  stated :  ' ' That  the  following  wools 
besides  Austrahan  wools  were  imported  skkted  prior  to  the  passacre  of 
the  act  of  October  1,  1890,  viz:  Cape  of  Good  Hope  wool;  French 
wool;   German  wool;  Russian  wool;   Spanish  wool;  Saxony  wool:' 
bilesia  wool;  Montevideo  wool;  Buenos  Au-es  wool;  Damascus  wool- 
bmyrna  wool;  Aleppo  wool;  Angora  wool;  Salonica  wool;  Alpaca! 
Adnanople  Egyptian  Turkey,  and  Russian  Donskoi  combing  wools 
tHat  i^nghsh  and  Irish  wools  were  sold  skirted  or  unskkted,  at  the 
option  of  the  purchaser,  and  that  Syrian  wools  were  sometimes  im- 
ported skirted."     (T.  D.  11429.) 

Classing  of  fleeces.— Wool  classing  is  the  classification  of  whole 
fleeces  accordmg  to  quaHty.  Due  to  greater  uniformity  of  the  fiber  in 
merino  fleeces  than  other  fleeces,  skirtmg  is  all  that  is  sometimes  nec- 
essarv  to  prepare  some  of  them  for  the  manufacturing  process.  They 
are  classed  according  to  quaUty,  which  is  designated  by  the  count  of 
yarn  to  wluch  the  wool  will  spin.  They  are  classed  as  50's  fleeces. 
^  s  fleeces,  60  s  fleeces,  etc.— the  higher  the  count  the  finer  the  wool, 
i^iassing  of  fleeces  is  not  sortmg  under  the  sorting  clause.  Nor  is  the 
cia&sitication  of  fleeces  by  color  where  the  custom  has  long  existed 
nem  to  be  a  change  of  condition  for  the  purpose  of  evadmg  the  duty. 
Lhmiging  condition  or  character  o/ wooZs.—Paragraph  368  provides 
also  that  wools  of^'any  class  wliich  shall  be  changed  in  its  character 
rL?''''!^  '''''  ^?''  *i'^  Purpose  of  evading  the  duty,  or  wliich  shaU  be 
reduced  in  value  by  the  admixture  of  dirt  or  any  other  foreign  sub- 
stance, shaU  be  twice  the  duty  to  wliich  it  would  be  otherwise  subject." 

32080"— H.  Doc.  342,  62-2,  vol  1 i 


^ 


so 


BEPOBT  OF   TARIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDUIiE  K. 


i 
If 


WhDe  this  provision  appUes  to  -«rool  of  any  class,  it  npnUes  partic- 
ularlv  to  wook  of  class  3.    In  the  present  law  Uiese  wools,  if  valuwl 
at  12  Sniper  pound  or  less,  tlae  duty  shall  be  4  <>e«te  per  pound; 
a  valued  at  more  than  12  cents,  the  duty  shaU  be  7  centa  per  pound 
Undir  this  provision  there  is  a  temptation  ^  diange  the  ctaract.^^  of 

the  wools  by  sorting,  or  th^«<>'J'l>«^o°„**y  *J^«  i^^he  I  ^o  clLs^ 
forei<m  substances,  m  order  to  have  all  or  part  ot  the  wool  ciassea 
miXf  the  lower  duty.  The  classification  of  gray  and  yellow  fleeces 
^Sin  *  to  a  long-standing  practice  in  Uie  case  of  East  India  wools 
w^heK  to  be  a  changiSg^  character  for  the  purpose  of  evadn^ 
tixe  duty.  (55  Fed  Rep.,  278  )  .An  examine  ^O^^^,!;!^*^  ^^^^^^^^^^ 
means  «  found  in  Treasun^  Decision  27515.  .  A;,  b«l«  ^^^td 
pounds  of  white  Icelaiid  wool  aiid  40  pounds  of  gray  or  back  Iceland 
Wl  was  entered  at  tlie  port  of  Boston  May  4  1903  I*  ^as  sho^vn 
Siat  it  was  not  customary  to  mix  these  wools,  but  that  they  had  been 
^^d  Hrfer  that  th^duty  on  them  as  tlurd-class  ;|?ool8  might  ^ 
at  the  lower  rate  (4  instead  of  7  cente  per  pound).  -  The  wlute  woo 
wafvaW  at  6*  pence,  or  over  12  cents  per  pound,  the  black  wool 
Tt  5  penS  or  less^^Uian'  12  cents  per  pound,  which  would  make  the 
S4gate  value  of  the  contents  5}  l)ence  per  pound,  or  less  than  12 
S  The  importer  contended  that  the  whofo  bale  was  dutiable  at 
cents.     luoiiiAt'w  t  i.^ij    v,„wAVBr   that  tlie  wlute  wool. 


be  otherwise  sub  ect,"  or  14  cents  per  pouna ;  »"" 'T„  „wu  U  wmild 
was  not  mixed  "for  the  purpose  of  evadmg  the  duty  to  which  it  would 
be  other^o  subject,"  W  wa^  therefore  not  subject  to  a  fo  W 
duty   but  to  4  cents  per  pound.    Tlus  clause,  therefore,  is  directed 
tlLtL  changing  of  tfie,  character  or  condition  of  wool  withm  a 
cfass  and  is  parScularly  applicable  to  class  3  wools      It  prevento 
mixin-T  wools  of  diffcFent  values  or  mixmg  wools  with  dirt  m  order 
•  toreduce  the  valuation  below  the  12  cents  pe_r  pound  hmit. 
*°  m^ng  classes  of  wool,  shoMyelc.-Ti..  .S^^^f "^SefeEt'cS? 
368  deafe  with  nuxing  wools,  shoddy,  hair,  etc.,  of  a^«[«  u«  S 
It  covers  such  cases  as  mixing  first-class  wool  wth  third^^ass  wool 
new  wool  of  any  class  with  slioddy  or  wastes,  etc.     Thus  it  an 
&rt^  d^lares^a  bale  of  wool  to  be  class  3  wool  and  the  custom 
officials  find  the  bale  to  contam  some  unwashed  wool  of  class  1   the 

duty  on  the  whole  bale  will  be  the  duty  «« "f  ^'^^.^f  „7°i,«i*J*^TV 
which  is  the  "  higher  rate  of  duty  "  referred  to  m  the  paragraph.  If, 
to  take  aiiother  example,  a  bale'declared  as  shoddy  be  fomid  to  con- 
tain some  scoured  wool  of  class  2,  the  rate  of  duty  on  the  whole  bale 
^Sl  bTfiled  at  36  cents  per  pound-the  duty  on  scoured  wool  of 

*^  The 'sorting  provision,  like  the  washed  and  scoured  wool  P'ovisioM, 
is  intended  to  assist  in  making  effective  the  rates  on  wool  as  f«ed  m 
paragraplia  369  and  370.  Everj-  possible  device  is  provided  to  pre- 
sent th^  evasion  of  the  duty  and  tlie  penfltjf  *°'*y^'*''',f  !^!^ 
high  that  it  is  impractical  to  evade  it.  On  the  ««f  ^^aiy  the  prcm.o 
'■rVTien  the  duty  assessed  upon  any  wool  equals  tliree  tunes  or  more 
that  which  woid  be  assessed  if  said  wool  was  imported  unwashed 
the  duty  shaU  not  be  doubled  on  account  of  the  wool  bemg  sorted 


BEPOET  OF  TAEIFF  BOAED  ON  SCHEDULE  K.  51 

prevents  the  rate  of  duty  on  class  1  from  ever  being  higher  than  33 
cents  per  pound,  on  class  2  wools  36  cents  per  pound,  aid  on  class  3 
wools  21  cents  per  pound,  which  are  the  rates  of  duties  provided  for 
m  paragraph  366.  ^ 

Paragraph  368.— DTTTIES  ON  CLASS  1  AND  2  WOOLS. 

The  duty  upon  all  wools  andhairofthefirst  class  shall  be  eleven  cents  per  pound  and 
upon  aU  wools  and  hair  of  the  second  class  twelve  cents  per  pound        P'^^P""""^'' 

WOOLS   OF  CLASS    1. 

Bates  of  duty.— The  rate  of  duty  of  1 1  cents  per  pound  fixed  bv 
paragrapli  369  on  wools  of  class  1  is  on  the  greasy  weight  of  the  wool 
1.  e  in  Its  natiiral,  unwashed  condition.  The  rates  on  class  1  woob 
stated  m  the  light  of  paragraph  366,  which  doubles  the  duty  on  washed 
wool  of  class  1  and  tnp  es  the  duty  on  scoured  wool,  and  in  the  light 
of  paragraph  371,  which  provides  the  duty  for  wools  imported  on  the 

Unwashed  wool  of  class  1 :  cents  per  pound. 

Ontheskin .,« 

Not  on  the  skin ...'.'.'.'.'.'. i  V 

Washed  wool  of  class  1 :  ^ 

On  the  skin „- 

Not  on  the  skin .'.'.'*.* £1 

Scoured  wool  of  class  1 ".'.*.!!.".'.*."!.'.'"".'*.''.'.'*.'.'.*]*."; o| 

Imports  of  cUss^  1  wools  for  consumption.— The  imports  of  class  1 
wools  mto  the  United  States  for  the  fiscal  year  ending  June  30   1911 
^ wn  in  Ta WeTo  *^^^^^^^^  ^^^  ^^®  computed  ad  valorem  rates,  are 

Table  10.— Imports  of  wool  of  class  1  into  the  United  States  for  the  fiscal  year  endina 

June  30, 1911.  ^f  ^  j 


Wool 

Rates  of 
duty. 

Quantities. 

Values. 

Revenue 
derived. 

Ad  valorem 
rate  (com- 
puted). 

TJnwaslied: 

On  the  Rkin 

CerUsper 

■pound. 

10 
11 

21 

22 
33 

Pounds. 
2,612,23^25 
55,621,116.08 

47 
102 
436 

$602,145.48 
13,283,075.00 

15.00 

23.00 

206.00 

$261,223.83 
6,118,322.76 

9.87 

22.44 

143.88 

Not  on  the  skin 

43.38 

Washed: 

On  the  skin 

46.06 

Not  on  the  skin 

65.8 

Scoured 

97.57 

69.84 

Total  class  1 

"1 

58,233,939.33 

13,885,464.48 

6,379,722.78 

45.95 

As  Table  10  shows,  the  great  majority  of  wools  imported  under 
ckss  1  are  unwashed  not  on  the  sW n .  The  washed  and  scoured  wools 
are  for  all  practical  purposes  negligible.  A  glance  at  the  computed 
ad  valorem  rates  e^lains  this.  The  rato  on  unwashed  wool  was 
^nH  ^K^'f  '        ,®  *^?*  **°  ^^B^heA  wool  was  97.57  per  cent, 

ftn^  5.  *!?  ^"V^'*  "^^^  ®^?^  P^""  ^^'^t-  These  rates  on  washed 
?Qi  n^K  ^^  ^*'?'  T®'?  'T*'  ^^^"^  "^"*1  under  the  present  act.  In 
tl^*  the  computed  ad  valorem  rate  on  washed  woof  was  139.01  per 
cent    and    on    scoured    wool    218.38   per  cent.    The   imports   of 


I 

I' 

If 


w 


52 


EEPOBT  OF  TABIFF   BOARD   ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


wool  of  class  1  for  the  fiwal  year  ending  Jim©  30, 1911 ,  show  a  markecl 
falling  off  when  compared  with  1910.  The  importB  of  tnese  wools 
for  a  number  of  representative  jears  is  shown  m  Table  11 . 

Table  11.— Imports  of  unwashed,  wmhed,  and  scoured  teool  of  daf^s  1,  entered  for  con- 
sumption into  the  United  States. 


Fisc^al  year  cadiug  Jun*?  30- 


Quanlity. 


Value, 


Revenue 
derived. 


IJJOsl 

imi 

ii»:. 

1910 

1911 


117  a 

19,;>o9.62l 

70,7ti9,197 

112.0(59.780 

58,233/939 


119.512,199 

3,7t)O,096 

It),  258.052 

25.850,869 

13,885,«4 


$2.12<».lt97 
8.419,509 

12,289.701 
15.379,723 


Ad  valorem 
rate  of  duty 
(computed). 


(••) 


56.56 
51.79 
47.54 
45.95 


I  Wool  free  of  doty  under  the  Wilson  bill. 

/mpwte  of  class  1  wool  by  countries.— The  foimtries  from  wliich  the 
United  States  imports  class  1  wools  and  their  comparative  impor- 
tance is  shown  in  Table  12.  It  should  be  noted  that  the  total  im- 
ports in  this  table  are  not  identical  with  those  in  Table  11.  The  dif- 
ference is  due  to  the  fact  that  in  ''Commerce  and  Navigation  of  the 
United  States"  the  imports  by  countries  include  merchanihse  m 
warehouses  as  well  as  that  entered  for  consumption. 

Table  12.— Imports  of  raw  wool,  class  1,  by  counfrm,  enterefjffor  immediate  consumption 

and  for  warehmise  itiio  the  United  States. 

lExpwBsed  ill  tliouaands  of  pounds  and  thousands  of  dollars.) 


IfM 


Country  or  origin. 


■"WOOLS  OP  CLASS  1. 


Belgium 

France 

Germany 

United  Kingdom. 

Canada 

Mexico 

Ar^jcutiua 

Clllli!.. 

rriiguiiy 

Auslrdlasia 

British  Africa 

Other  countries... 


Quan- 
tity. 


6, 553 

3S3 

50. 404 

1,147 

95 

u,  129 

1,599 

8,078 

20.253 

8,102 

596 


Value. 


1900 


1905 


1910 


Qaanp 
tity. 


$1,244 

1,677 

CO 

9, 810 

214 

4 

871 

124 

ms 

3. 559 

8tiO 

36 


291 

109 

94 

13, 182 

237 

iii'.lia 

1,270 

211 

11,008 

429 

391 


Value. 


'149 

14 

IS 

2,018 

26 

1^985 

140 

51 

2,934 
90 
87 


Quan- 
tity. 


6,r.26 

708 

320 

36,221 

523 


Vahie. 


Quan- 
tity. 


II,  1S8 

1(>2 

100 

8,350 

127 


32, 737 

(j,  T.vl 

1,156 

174 

5. 155 

1,110 

26,60 

6,618 

36 

« 

744 

147 

2, 2iO 

371 

826 

35,647 

303 

61 

23,587 

230 

7.153 

40,891 

135 

130 


Wil'.i. 


1911 


Quan- 
tity. 


Value. 


1488 

85 
194 

8,630 
59 
11 

5, 4t3 
37 

1.779 

10.446 

23 

17 


42 


14,628 

143 

0) 

13, 432 

€0 

573 

11, 127 

94 

6 


19 

27 

2.563 

11 

124 

2,844 

17 

1 


1  IncludtHl  ii  other  countries. 


As  Table  12  shows,  the  cliief  countries  exporting  wool  to  the  Umted 
States  are  Australasia,  Argentina,  and  the  United  Kingdom  the 
United  Kingdom  produces  no  class  1  wool,  and  all  the  exports  oi  these 
wools  from  that  countrv  are  reexports  of  imported  wool.^  Australa- 
sian wools  (except  a  small  amount  of  long  wool  produced  in  New  Zea- 
land) are  class  1  wools  and  their  importation  into  the  Umted  btates 
is  of  increasing  importance.  Within  recent  years  the  direct  importa- 
tion of  wool  from  South  Africa  has  been  negligible.  Wool  imported 
from  Belgium  is  reexported  South  American  wool. 

»  See  Table  4  on  p.  36.    Tart  of  tiie  reexports  to  tue  I  mud  .^  tatcs  shown  on  p.  36  are  class  3  wools. 


EEPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K.  53 

Production  of  class  1  wooZs.— Production  figures  are  not  ffiven  bv 
classes   but  knowing  the  kind  of  wool  grown  m  the  important  coun- 
tries of  the  world  the  main  sources  of  class  1  wools  can  be  mven 
AU  wools  grown  in  AustraMa  belong  to  this  class.     In  1909  she  pro^ 
duced  718,000,000  pounds  of  wool.     Almost  all  the  wools  of  NewZea- 
lands  are  crossbreds,  and  hence  classed  as  class  1  wools.     In  1909  she 
produced  223,900,000  pounds  of  wool.     Argentina  produces  wool  of 
aJl  classes,  but  a  large  per  cent  of  her  wools  belong  to  class  1      In 
2m  onn  J?n^  """^^^  (excjusive  of  a  small  amount  consumed  at  home) 
401,200,000  pounds.     South  African  wools   are  also  class   1  wools 
In  1909  she  produced  130,900,000  pounds.     The  production  of  wool 
i^i;;^^^^'  mostly  class  1  (exclusive  of  a  small  local  consumption)  in 

irrJon  nnn^^'^^^'^^f  P^V?^^*  ^^?  <^ontinent  of  Europe  produced 
420,000,000  pounds  of  wool  in  1 909 ;  but  due  to  the  fact  that  ft  is  prac- 
tically all  consumed  where  raised  it  is  seldom  found  in  the  markets 
of  the  world.     The  great  majority  of  wools  produced  in  the  United 

toe  fL  n)r^  ^"^  t^^.  ^'  ,1"  1^09  o^r  prod\iction  was  reported  at 
328,100,000  pounds  of  wool.  ^ 

WOOLS   AND   HAIRS   OF   CLASS   2. 

Rates  ofduty.—F&T&m-a^h  369  fixes  the  duty  on  class  2  wools  at  12 
cents  per  greasy  pound.  As  explained  on  page  47,  the  duty  is  not 
doubled  on  these  wook  when  they  are  washed,  but  they  bear  a  triple 
duty  when  scoured.  They  are  also  affected  by  the  provision  relating  to 
wools  on  the  skin.  Stated  m  full  the  duties  on  class  2  wools  and  hau^ 
are  I 

Washed  and  unwashed  wool  of  class  2:  ^SnnS^' 

On  the  skin ^''°^- 

Not  on  the  skin jj 

Scoured  wool ] J^ 

Camel's  hair  of  class  2:  " ^ 

Washed  and  unwashed 

Scoured 'IV...... i^ 

Hair  of  the  Angora  goat,  alpaca,  and  other  like  animals:         

VV  ashed  and  unwashed ,^ 

Scoured ' if 

oo 

Irnports  of  class  2  wools  for  consumption-.— The  imports  of  class  2 
woo  s  and  hairs  into  the  United  States  for  the  fiscal  year  ending  June 
^0,  1911,  with  revenue  derived  and  the  computed  ad  valoreni  rates 
are  shown  in  Table  13. 

Table  13.— Imports  of  wool  and  hair  of  class  2  into  the  United  States  for  the  fiscal  vear 

ending  June  30,  1911.  '  ^ 


Rates  of  duty. 


Wool: 

Washed  and  unwashed— 

On  the  skin 

Not  on  the.  skin 

Scoured 

Camel's  hair: 

,  Washed  and  unwashed 

Hair  of  the  Angon  goat,  alpaca, 
and  other  like  animals: 
W^hed  and  unwashed . . 
Sorted 


Quantities. 


CtrU9  per  Ih. 
11 
12 
36 

12 


12 
24 


Total  class  2. 


Piunds. 
96,490 

8,766,205.50 
40 

26,694 


2,725,024.25 


Values. 


Revenue 
derived. 


Ad  valorem 

mte 
(computed). 


$20,307.00 

2,138,091.82 

12.00 

7,692.00 


986.615.00 
994.00 


11,615,953.75 


S10,613.88 

1,051,944.66 

14.40 

3,203.28 


327,002.92 
360.00 


3,153,711.82 


1,393,139.14 


52.27 
49.20 
120 

41.64 


33.14 
36.22 


44.17 


54  BEPOET  OP  TABIFP  BOABD  ON   SCHEDXTLE  K. 

Tn  Table  13  it  will  be  noticed  that  unwashed  and  washed  wools 
are  reported  together  because  the  duty  on  both  m  the  same  It  may 
b^^sumed,  however,  that,  since  the  custom  of  fleece  washmg  pre- 
JtibSThe  countries  producmg  these  wools  «id  smce  the  cleaner  the 
W  The  less  the  duty  per  clean  pound,  the  wools  "nported  are 
washed  The  computed  ad  valorem  rate  on  the  largest  part  of  the 
Srtation  was  49.20  per  cent.  The  smaU  quantity  of  scoured 
3  h^Dorted  paid  a  computed  rate  of  dutv  of  120  per  cent.  The 
TompZl  ad  vriorem  rateV  mohair  and  4aca  (33^4  per  cent)  u 
comoaratively  low  because  these  hairs  are  light  shrmking. 

tL  hnports  of  class  2  wools  for  several  representative  yeai-s  are 

shown  m  Table  14. 

T^BLE  U.^Imports  of  unwashed,  '™«'f'' .-•^^S'f""'''  "-^  ''"**  '  "'""''  ^°'  ""' 

mmphontnto  the  United  btates. 


Fiscal  year  ending  June  30— 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Revenue 
derived. 

Ad  valorem 
rate  of  duty 
(computed). 

POUTidS. 

10,608.208 

8,464,325 

19,296,833 

24,800,262 

8,862,736 

$2,274,441 
1,681,605 
4,493,869 
6,263,933 
2,158,411 

C) 

1896 ■ ■■ 

1900 

ims 

1910 

1911 ■ 

$1,009,536 
2,311,867 
2,976.279 
1,062,573 

60.03 
51.44 
47.51 
49.23 

»  Wool  free  of  dut y  under  the  Wilson  biU. 

ImpoHs  of  class  2  wool  lij  counfnVs. --The  imports  of  class  2  wools 
and  hairs,  %  countries,  are  shown  m  Table  15. 

Table  15  -ImmrlB  of  raw  wool  and  hair  of  class  2,  hy  'ounlj'^mjf'^  >''  ^'^'^^^^ 
TABLE  10.    ^'"^^^  J^p^ -^  ^^^pr  warehouse  into  the  United  States. 

[Expressed  in  thousands  of  pounds  and  thousands  of  dollars.]     ^^ 


1896 


1900 


Country  of  origin. 


WOOLS  OF  CLASS  2. 

Turkish  Empire 

United  Kingdom 

Canada 

Argentina 

Australasia 

Peru 

other  countries 


Quan- 
tity. 


1,172 
6,506 
3,817 

133 

26 

829 


Value. 


$454 

1,,W 

796 

464 

28 

10 

161 


Quan- 
tity. 


748 
9,450 
2,171 


Value. 


$261 

1,887 
425 


1905 


1910 


1911 


Quan- 
tity. 


26 


236 


54 


2,236 

20,075 

1,530 

551 


Value. 


Quan-    yjjiue. 
tity. 


1,082 
1,078 


1624 

4,846 
350 
112 


321 
268 


88 

26,908 

1.008 

1,386 


$21 

6,746 

425 

287 


Quan- 
tity. 


Value. 


1,118 
505 


342 
109 


1,025 
7,153 
1,072 
1,954 

96 
1,116 

41 


$392 

1,866 

261 

355 

21 

375 

11 


The  unports  from  the  Turkish  Empire  m  Table  15  are  mohair 
shipped  dWt  to  the  United  States.  The  United  Kmgdom  reex- 
ported to  the  United  States  432,682  pounds  of  mohair  ^  1909  and 
R9Q  001  nounds  in  1910.  Tliis  presumably  is  both  Cape  and  Turkish 
mohair  T 1909  the  United  Kingdom  reexported  to  the  United 
Ses  109  676  pounds  of  alpaca  and^  1910, 282,232  pounds.  Except 
for  rhesTre^xp^o,?^,  which%pear  i^  Table  15  as  irnporj^s  from  tte 
United  Kmgdom,  the  imports  tom  the  U«>tedKmgdorn  are  wools 
produced  by  her  own  sheep.    Canada  and  Argentma  are  the  only 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE   K. 


55 


other  countries  of  any  importance  in  the  production  of  class  2 
wools.  The  imports  from  them  rank  next  to  the  United  Kingdom  in 
importance.     Tlie  imports  from  Peru  are  alpaca. 

Production  of  class  2  wools.— Th^  United  Kingdom  is  the  greatest 
producer  of  class  2  wools.  For  the  last  10  years  the  British  clip  has 
been  somewhere  between  130,000,000  and  143,000,000  pounds  annu- 
ally. Canada  produces  about  12,000,000  pounds  of  wool  annually, 
the  great  percentage  of  which  is  class  2  wool. 

Class  2  cameVs  hair. — ^AU  camel's  hair  except  Kussian  is  dutiable 
at  12  cents  per  pound  when  imported  washed  or  unwashed,  and  at  36 
cents  per  pound  when  imported  scoured.  The  chief  country  from 
which  we  receive  this  hair  is  China. 

The  imports  of  camel's  hair  of  class  2  for  representative  years  is 
shown  in  Table  16. 

Table  \^.— Imports  ofcameVs  hair  of  class  2,  entered  for  consumption  into  the  United 

States. 


Quantity. 

Value. 

Revenue 
derived. 

Ad  valorem 
rate  of 

duty  (com- 
puted). 

Fiscal  year  ending  June  30— 

1896 

Pownds. 

578,297 

126,762 

89,903 

112 

26,694 

$101,238 

21,372 

24,949 

88 

7,692 

C) 
71.17 
43.24 
45.61 
41.64 

1900 

1908 

$15,211.44 

10,788.36 

40.14 

3,203.28 

1910 

1911 

Camel's  hair  free  of  duty  under  the  Wilson  bill. 


MoJiair,  alpaca,  etc, — Mohair,  as  has  been  said,  is  produced  outside 
of  the  United  States,  in  the  Turkish  Empire  and  South  Africa,  and 
alpaca  in  Peru.  The  rate  of  duty  on  these  and  hke  hau^  is  12  cents 
per  pound  if  they  are  washed  or  unwashed ;  36  cents  per  pound  if  they 
are  scoured.  The  imports  into  the  United  States  for  representative 
years  is  shown  in  Table  17. 


Table  17. 


-Imports  of  hair  of  angora  goats,  alpaca,  and  other  like  animal  hairs  entered 
for  consumption  into  the  United  States. 


w 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Revenue 
derived. 

Ad  valorem 
rate  of 

duty  (com- 
puted). 

Fiscal  year  ending  June  30— 

1896 

Pounds. 

2,016,105 

1,329,892 

2,625,575 

1.967,006 

2,726,524 

$782,828 
391,306 
749,764 
682.033 
987,609 

(0 
40.77 

42.  oa 

34.62 
33.14 

1900 

$159,550 
315,069 
236,094 
327,363 

1905 

1910 

1911 

1  Hair  free  under  tlie  Wilson  bill. 


Production  ofmoliair. — There  are  no  rehable  statistics  on  the  pro- 
duction of  mohair  in  Turkey.  Her  supply,  however,  is  practically  all 
used  by  the  United  Kingdom,  France,  and  the  United  States.  In 
1909  the  United  Kingdom  imported  from  Turkey  10,803,206  pounds 
of  mohair.     France  imported  460,761  pounds  of  mohair  from  Turkey. 


■OM 


5§ 


EEFOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


The  exports  of  mohair  from  South  Africa  m  1909  whicli  may  be  con- 
sidere/as  the  production,  was  43,318,302  pounds.  The  production 
of  mohair  in  the  Umted  States  accordmg  to  the  census  of  1910  is  not 
yet  available.    The  production  in  1900  is  shown  m  Table  18. 

Table  18. -Production  and  value  of  mohdr  atid  goat  hair  in  1809,  hy  geograjMe 

divisions. 


C  eograpl ;  ie  d  i  v  isiuns. 


The  United  States. 


North  Atlantic. 
South  Atlantic. 
North  Central.. 
South  Central.. 
Western 


Famis 
report- 
ing. 


Fleeces 
shorn. 


4]rliH5J^ 


43 

52 

6B5 

838 

2,463 


I  Weight  of 
I   fleeces  in 
'pounds  (un- 
washed). 


454,932 


1,16.1 

676 

21,234 

195,002 

235,867 


901,328 


Value. 


2,852 

1,718 

.58,095 

281,158 

617,505 


1267,804 


1,008 

501 

17,227 

79,185 

169,943 


In  1909  wool  manufactures  in  the  United  States  consumed  2,453,984 
pounds  of  domestic  mohair,  valued  at  $624,579.     Tins  is  a  good  mdex 

to  the  present  annual  production  of  7>^^JJ,^>J^^^Yt^^^;^.^  ^f 

World  commerce  in  m^hmr,  alpaca,  etc.— The  unports  and  ^^ports^ 

mohair,  alpaca,  and  like  hair  for  leadm-  forei^i  f  >"?t™^^^ 
in  Table  19.     The  large  imports  into  tlie  United  Kingdom  indicate 
ihe  supreme  place  which  the  Bradford  district  holds  m  the  production 
of  mohair  dress  goods. 

Tabi  e  19  -Imports  and  exports  oj  mohair,  alpaca,  and  me  animal  hairs  for  leading 

countries  in  1909  and  1910. 


Countries. 


XlRAf 


1910 


Imports. 


Exports. 


United  States 

Uniteti  Kingdom 

Germany 

France 

Austria-Hungary 

British  South  Africa.. 

Rmsia 

Peni 


Quantity. 


Founds. 

1,306,073 

35.6ll,.'i:» 

31,964,960 

997,8Cj2 

950,403 


Value. 


Quantity. 


$459,653 

8,782.188 

2  509.082 

327,569 

178,618 


Value. 


Pound*. 

Vf  ,353,920. 

2  3.3,56,5a3 

905,429 

148.149 

43,318.302 

1,687,732 

5,808,784 


Imports. 


Quantity. 


Value. 


1  $400,566 

2  498, 134 

166,4.57 

12,277 

4,W3,166 

178,192 

1,442.460 


Pounds. 
1,967,006 
35.828.426 
2  2,093,709 
1.4ft3,228 
1,243,615 
2,79{< 


$682,033 

8.945,:«)3 

8587,622 

437,338 

191,251 

141 


Exports. 


Quantity. 


Value. 


Pounds. 


11.623,884 

2  3,494,511 

980,165 

58,642 

39,279,R41 


1  $525,192 

1254,422 

171.577 

4,860 

4,395,248 


■■ 


1  Reexports, 


2  Includes  camels  hair. 


Paragraph  370.-DXrTIES  ON  CLASS  3  WOOLS. 

Oti  wonk  of  the  third  elass  and  on  cameVB  hair  of  the  third  class  the  value  wliereof 
ehTl? blTwelx4  ceZ  0^^         per  pound,  the  duty  ehall  be  four  cent^  per  pound     On 

t^\?ouLthirdrcla.«  ^-^^.^r^^^^^^  '^''' 

exceed  twelve  centa  per  pound,  the  duty  shall  bo  seven  cents  per  pound. 

RaUs  of  du^i/.-Paragraph  370  fixes  the  duty  on  aU  imported  wod^ 
produce  Jby  native  or  unimproved  sheep  and  on  Russian  camel  s  hair 
In  1867  class  3  wools,  valued  at  12  cents  per  pound  or  less   paid  3 
cents  per  pound  duty,  and  valued  over  12  cents  per  pound   6  cents 
pefpornd:    The^^  rates  were  changed  in  1883  to  2i  cents  and  5  cents 


i\ 


EEPORT   OF   TARIFF   BOARD   OK   SCHEDXILE   K. 


57 


per  pound.  In  1890  the  dividing  line  was  made  13  cents.  Wools 
valued  at  13  cents  and  below  paid  a  duty  of  32  per  cent;  those  valued 
above,  50  per  cent.  In  1897  the  rates  of  the-  present  law  were 
fixed,  which  are  the  highest  ever  levied  on  wool  of  class  3.  The 
present  rates  on  these  wools  and  Russian  camel's  hair,  stated  in  the 
light  of  paragraph  366  and  371,  are  as  follows: 

Class  S  wools.  , 

Valued  12  cents  or  less  per  pound:  Cents 

Washed  and  unwashed—  P«r  ix>und. 

On  the  skin 3 

Not  on  the  skin 4 

Scoured  wool 12 

Camel's  hair,  Russian — 

Washed  and  unwashed 4 

Scoured 12 

Valued  over  12  cents  per  pound  : 

Washed  and  unwashed  wool — 

On  the  skin. 6 

Not  on  the  skin 7 

Scoured  wool 21 

Camel's  hair,  Russian — 

Washed  and  unwashed i 7 

Scoured 21 

Imports  of  class  3  wools  for  consumption. — The  imports  of  class  3  wool 
and  camel's  hair  into  the  United  States  for  the  fiscal  year  ending  June 
30,  1911,  are  shown  in  Table  20. 

Table  20. — Imports  ofivool  and  cameVs  hair  of  class  3  into  the  United  States  for  the  fiscal 

year  ending  June  SO,  1911. 


Rates  of 

duty  (per 

pound). 

Quantities. 

Values. 

Revenue 
deri  ed. 

Ad  valo 
rem  rate 
(com- 
puted). 

Value  12  cents  or  less  per  pound: 
Wool- 
Washed  and  unwashed— 

On  the  skin 

Cents. 
3 
4 

4 

6 

7 

21 

7 

Pounds. 

1,326,260 

64,790,565 

500,699 

33 

20,403,801 

110 

2,909,478 

$131,737.00 
7,094,605.00 

66,058.00 

6.00 

4,789,641.00 

22.00 

450,413.22 

$39,787.80 
2,691,622.60 

22,427.90 

1  98 

1,852,466.09 

23.10 

203,663.40 

30.20 

Not  on  the  skin 

3&53 

Camel's  hair,  Russian- 
Washed  and  im washed 

Value  exceeding  12  cents  per  pound: 
Wool- 
Washed  and  unwashed — 

On  the  skin 

33.65 
33.00 

Not  on  the  skin 

38.68 

Scoured 

105.00 

Camel's  hair,  Russian — 

Washed  and  unwashed 

45.22 

Total,  class  3 

96,050,946 

12,533,082.22 

4,709,992.99 

37.58 

Table  20  shows  that  'the  largest  per  cent  of  class  3  wools  is 
purchased  abroad  for  12  cents  or  less  per  pound.  These  wools  are 
probably  unwashed,  while  those  valued  over  12  cents  per  pound  are 
probably  washed.  Donskoi  and  East  Indian  wools  are  thoroughly 
washed  before  shipment,  and  are  therefore  represented  in  the  wools 
imported  valued  over  12  cents  per  pound.  The  computed  ad  valorem 
rate  on  wool  not  on  the  skin,  valued  at  12  cepts  or  less  per  pound,  in 
1911  was  36.53  per  cent;  valued  over  12  cents  per  pound,  38.68 
per  cent.    Here,  again,  the  duty  on  scoured  wool  acts  to  prevent 


SB 


BEPOBT  OF   TABIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


importation.     The  smaU  amount  that  was  imported  paid  a  duty  of 

^^tKif^^^^^  of  w'^oof  of  class  3  valued  at  12  cents  or  less  per  pound 
fof  representative  years  are  shown  in  Table  21. 

Table  2l.-Imports  of  wool  of  chm  3  valued  aiU  cents  c^  leu  per  pound  entered  for 
^  ^  consumption  into  the  hmted  iitates. 


Quantity. 


Fiscal  year  ending  Jane  30— 

1900 

1905 

1910 

1911 


Pounds. 

94,592,255 
77,058,176 
84.692,275 
Gti,116,825 


Value. 


18,563,206 
7,759.300 
9, 309, 323 
7,226,342 


Rereniie 
derived. 


$3,774,492 
3,070,966 
3,373,779 
2,631,410 


Ad  valo 
rem  rata 
of  duty 
(com- 
puted). 


44.08 
39.58 
36.24 
36.41 


The  imports  of  wool  of  class  3  valued  over  12  cents  per  pound  for 
representative  years  are  shown  in  Table  22. 

Table  22.-Imporf.  of  toool  of  class  S  ^^^Y^fJ^rfJ^/^  ^^  ^  ^""^  ^"'^^ 

for  consumptmfi  into  the  Umtea  ii  tales. 


Quantity. 


Fiscal  year  ending  June  30— 

imo • 

1905 

1910 

1911 • 


Pounds. 

3,058,513 
33,028,110 
30,408,592 
26,463,944 


Value. 


$478,808 
6,887,706 
6,251,659 
4,789,669 


Revenue 
derived. 


$214,072 
2,311,968 
2.128,599 
1,852,490 


Ad  valo- 
rem rate 
of  duty 
(com- 
puted). 


44.71 
39.27 

40.53 
38.68 


ImpoHs  of  class  3  wools,  hy  countries. —The  imports  of  class  3  wools 
and  cameFs  hair  into  the  United  States,  by  countries,  are  shown  m 
Table  23. 

Table  2^.-Imports  of  raw  uool  of  class  3    and  Russian  cameVs  \^^.%f2^^^^^ 
entered  for  immediate  consumption  and  for  warehouse  into  the  United  states. 

[Expressed  in  tkoasands  of  pounds  and  tliouflands  of  dollars.l 


1890 


Quan- 
tity. 


Value. 


"WOOLS  Of  CLASS  3. 

Austria-Hungary.. . . 

Belgium.. 

France 

Germany 

Kussian  Empire 

Turkish  Empire  (in- 
cluding Egypt).... 
United  Kingdom — 

Argentina 

Cluna 

British  India 

Other  countries 


294 
1,290 
6,181 
1,558 

y,  if4X 

10, 137 
27,998 

13,3;J5 

24,5;i7 

43 

2,607 


1900 


1905 


Quan- 
tity. 


Value. 


$30 
147 

668 

1,135 

984 

3.272 

1,283 

1,600 

3 

212 


1  f  OWO 

wo 

3,784 

2, 188 

17,432 

8,221 
29,442 

9,467 

30,710 

690 

2,303 


$134 

28 

375 

233 

1,677 

835 

Of  lo«J 

691 

2,157 

66 

237 


Quan- 
tity. 


Value. 


1,287 

206 

4,017 

1,051 

28,050 

16,867 

20,398 

6,204 

27,644 

2,886 

4,065 


$167 

44 

548 

164 

3,482 

2,215 

3,610 

756 

3,129 

359 

566 


1910 


^TJ"  I  Value. 


853 

47 

3, 572 

2.075 

19,761 

11,914 

28,420 

3.675 

38,062 

6.396 

5,W 


1911 


Quan- 
tity. 


Value. 


$111 

7 

533 

267 
2,783 

1,777 

4,071 

412 

4,463 

826 

809 


940 

7 

2,690 

2,387 

15,404 

5.741 
21,026 

3,781 
28,089 

2,043 

2,977 


$123 
1 

364 

280 

2.087 

744 
3,101 

456 
3,070 

244 

424 


REPORT  OF   TARIFF   BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


59 


Table  23  shows  that  approximately  one-third  of  the  class  3  wools 
imported  into  the  Uiiitecl  States  are  from  China.  The  large  imports 
from  the  United  Eoiigdora  represent,  first,  some  Scottish  Blacldace 
wool  grown  in  the  Highlands  of  Scotland,  and,  secondly,  class  3 
wools,  especially  East  Indian,  sold  on  the  Liverpool  auctions  and  then 
reexported.  Tne  wools  from  Kussia  are  chiefly  Donskoi,  and  those 
from  tlie  Turkish  Empire  the  various  wools  produced  in  and  near 
Turkey  and  enumerated  under  paragraph  36^.  Argentma  appears 
in  diminishing  importance  as  a  producer  of  class  3  wools,  due  to  the 
crossmg  of  her  native  sheep  with  improved  stock. 

Production  of  class  3  wools, — ^Any  statistics  on  the  production  of 
class  3  wools  are  necessarily  approximations.  The  production  of 
wool  in  the  whole  Russian  Empire  is  estimated  at  238,800,000  pounds; 
in  the  Ottoman  Empire  at  137,100,000  pounds;  in  China  at  49,000,000 
pounds;  in  Persia  at  12,100,000  pounds:  and  m  Iceland  at  1,000,000 
pounds.  ,  Sheep  are  found  in  practically  everv  country  in  the  world 
(see  Table  184),  and  the  countries  backward  in  improved  pastoral 
methods  still  produce  some  class  3  wool,  but  the  tendency  m  many 
cases  is  to  unprove  these  flocks  with  Merino  or  English  blood,  so  that 
the  production  of  class  3  wools  may  be  expected  to  decline. 

Russian  caraeVs  hair, — Russian  camel's  nair  pays  a  duty  of  4  cents 
per  pound  if  valued  at  12  cents  or  less  per  pound,  7  cents  per  pound 
if  valued  over  12  cents  per  pound,  and  12  or  21  cents  per  pound  if 
scoured. 

The  total  imports  of  Russian  camel's  hak  into  the  United  States  for 
representative  years  is  shown  in  Table  24. 

Table  24. — Imports  of  Russian  cameVs  hair  entered  for  consumption  into  the  Unitsd 

States. 


Fiscal  year  ending  June  30— 

1896 

1900 

I9a5 

1910 

1911 


Quantity. 

Value. 

Revenue 
derived. 

Pounds. 

1,249,520 

1,319,576 

2,509.591 

2,6f.9,611 

3, 470, 177 

$114,003 
139, 137 
295,758 
329.388 
517,071 

$52, 783 
100,607 
124,237 

228,091 

Ad  valorem 
rate  of  duty 
(computed). 


(') 


37.94 
34.02 
37.72 
43.73 


1  Gamers  hair  free  of  duty  under  the  Wilson  bill. 


WorM^s  commerce  in  cameVs  hair. — The  imports  and  exports  of 
camel's  hair  of  all  kinds  for  leading  countries  which  report  it  are 
shown  in  Table  25.     The  exports  of  the  United  Kingdom  are  reex- 

gorts.     Of  the  total  amount  which  she  reexported  in  1909  the  United 
tates  received  2,996,370  pounds,  and  in  1910,  2,057,588  pounds. 


60 


KEFOBT  OF  TAMFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


Table  '2r>. —Imports  and  exports  of  camel's  hair  for  leading  conntnes  in  1909  and  1910. 


11K9 


Coontrka. 


Impdrtii 


Exports. 


.«'. 


Fmtnis. 

tJnlted  Stetes 14, 140, 593 

United  Kingdom. . . [s, 619, 590 

B'Uasia ! 

China ■ 


$523,045 
l,oo9) 83o 


Quantity.     Valtie. 


Pounds. 

7,256,614 
3,037,370 


1  $4(45.130 

701.414 

p«391,W7 


1910 


Imports, 


Qiiantlty. 


Ponndn. 

•2,«9,722 
8,3<>l,115 


Value. 


$329. 476 
1.539,752 


Exports. 


Quantity. 


Pounds. 
i2'.itii]536" 


Value. 


J$;i37,910 


I 


1  Reexport.  ,         ,      ,„,     x  ,     «.^.. 

2  Keported  as  <y3,814  taels;  conversion  valJO  of  a  taal  at  Tlontsin,  SJ.ulS. 

Paragraph  371.— WOOLS  ON  THE  SKIN. 

Tlie  duty  on  wools  on  the  skin  ehall  be  1  cent  leas  per  pound  than  is  imposed  in  this 
schedule  on  other  woola  of  the  same  claas  and  condition,  the  quantity  and  value  to 
be  ascertained  under  such  rules  m  the  Secretary  of  the  Treasury  may  prescribe. 

Pulkd  wool.—hx  1897  a  differential  of  1  cent  a  pound  was  intro- 
diiced  in  favor  of  wool  on  the  skin  for  thepiirpose  of  encouraging  the 
pulling  of  wools  in  tlie  United  States.  The  frozen-mutton  industry 
m  Australasia  and  Argentina  has  given  to  commerce  as  a  by-product 
a  gi-eat  quantity  of  sheepskins  with  the  wool  on  them.  They  are  the 
raw  material  of  the  wool-pulling  industry.  The  wool  when  removed 
from  the  skm  is  known  as  ^'pulled  wool."  The  most  important  center 
of  this  industry  in  the  world  is  in  and  near  Mazamet,  in  the  Depart- 
ment of  Tarn,  France.  Of  the  2,200  persons  employed  in  wool  pull- 
ing in  France  in  1906,  95  per  cent  were  employed  in  this  Depart- 
ment. In  1910,  Mazamet  received  sheepskins  with  the  wool  on  them 
as  follows : 

Pounds. 

From  the  River  Plate 81, 789, 981 

From  Australasia ^^»  ^J?*  ??7 

From  the  Cape,  Spain,  Africa,  etc ^  465, 664 

These  skins  reached  Mazamet  chiefly  tlirough  the  ports  of  Bor- 
deaux and  Marseille.  Forty-three  milhon  nine  hundred  and  thirty- 
seven  thousand  six  hundred  and  ninety-one  pounds  of  washed  wool 
and  11,782,129  pounds  of  scoured  wool  were  shipped  from  Mazamet  in 
1910.  Twenty-seven  million  nine  hundred  and  sixty-seven  thousand 
nine  hundred  and  seventy-four  pounds  of  the  washed  wool  was 
shipped  to  England.  The  remauamg  wool  was  taken  by  the  various 
other  countries. 

Process  ofpuMng  wool. — In  Mazamet  the  wool  is  removed  from  the 
skins  by  a  process  of  sweating.  The  wool  skins  are  hung  in  a  room 
with  moistened  atmospliere,  and  the  action  of  the  moisture  loosens 
the  roots  of  the  wool.  Great  care  must  be  taken  in  tliis  process,  for 
if  the  skins  are  left  hanging  too  long  they  rot.  It  is  used  in  the 
United  States  in  a  wry  limited  vv  ay  and  only  for  those  wool  skins  in 
which  the  skin  is  of  small  value. 

The  chief  method  of  removing  wool  from  skins  employed  in  the 
British  colonies  and  the  United  States  is  chemical.  After  washing, 
the  skins  are  painted  on  the  flesh  side  with  a  solution  of  sodium 
sulphide  or  some  similar  agent.     Tlie  skins  are  then  allowed  to  he. 


BEPORT  OF   TABIFF   BOAED   OInT    SCHEDULE    K. 


61 


usually  overnight,  during  which  time  the  roots  of  the  wool  become 
loosened.  The  actual  pulling  is  done  by  hand,  and  as  the  wool  is 
removed  from  the  skin  it  is  sorted.  When  lime  is  used  to  remove  the 
wool  from  the  skin,  the  wool  is  called  '^slipe"  v70ol. 

The  skins  after  tne  wool  is  removed  are  tanned  and  used  for  shoe 
linings,  hatbands,  book  and  roller  leather,  and  novelties.  Skins  from 
which  the  wool  has  been  pulled  are  admitted  to  the  United  States 
free  of  duty,  and  large  quantities  (66,960,763  pounds,  valued  at 
$11,256,921,  in  1910)  are  imported  in  pickle,  especially  from  England 
and  France,  and  subsequently  tanned  m  this  country. 

Pulled  wools  are  used  only  in  medium  and  low  grade  goods;  they 
are  used  extensively  for  blending  with  shoddy,  noils,  and  wastes. 
They  lack  spinning  properties,  are  harsh,  and  do  not  work  up  like 
"fleece"  wools,  but  are  a  valuable  raw  material  and  are  sure  to 
increase  in  importance  with  the  growing  emphasis  which  is  being 
placed  on  raising  sheep  for  their  mutton  as  well  as  their  wool. 

The  Secretary  of  the  Treasury  lias  prescribed  rules  as  authorized 
by  paragraph  371  for  determining  the  per  cent  of  wool  on  sheep- 
skins of  different  kinds.  (T.  D.  1017,  1100,  1219,  1399,  1659,  and 
1666.)  If,  however,  a  case  arises  not  provided  for  b}^  the  Treasury 
decisions,  the  collectors  are  authorized  to  find  the  net  weight  of  the 
wool  ascertained  by  estimates  based  on  actual  tests.  (T.  D.  18907 
and  21764.)  The  actual  test  employed  by  the  Government  is  not 
to  have  some  of  the  skins  of  the  lot  puUed,  but  to  have  them  closely 
sheared.  This  is  thought  to  be  more  equitable.  (T.  D.  22702.) 
The  duties  are  assessed,  then,  not  on  the  weight  of  the  skin,  but  on 
the  weight  of  the  wool  on  the  skin. 

Duty  on  wool  on  the  sJcin. — Paragraph  371  provides  that  'Hhe  duty 
on  wools  on  the  skin  shall  be  1  cent  less  per  pound  than  is  imposed 
in  tliis  schedule  on  other  wools  of  the  same  class  and  condition." 
The  rates  of  duty,  therefore,  are  as  follows : 

Cents  per 
Claas  1:  pound. 

Unwashed  wool  on  the  skin 10 

Washed  wool  on  the  skin 21 

Class  2: 

Washed  and  unwashed  wool  on  the  skin 11 

Class  3: 

Valued  12  cents  or  less  per  pound — 

Washed  and, unwashed  wool  on  the  skin 3 

Valued  over  12  cents  per  pound — 

Washed  and  unwashed  wool  on  the  skin 6 

Condition  of  wool  on  the  shin. — The  purpose  of  making  the  duty  on 
wool  on  the  skin  less  than  wool  not  on  the  skin  is  to  protect  the  cost 
of  puUin^  wool  in  the  United  States;  it  aims  to  put  wool  pulled 
from  foreign  pelts  on  an  equahty  with  imported  pulled  wool  which 
pays  the  same  duty  as  other  wools.  It  may  be  said  parenthetically 
that  no  wool  pulled  abroad  is  imported  because  it  is  generally  both 
washed  and  sorted  in  the  pulling  processes,  and  washed  wools  of 
class  1  and  sorted  wools  of  classes  1  and  2  are  practically  excluded  from 
this  coimtry  by  the  operation  of  the  duties.     (See  pp.  45  and  48.) 

Wool  on  the  skin  has,  as  a  rule,  a  higher  shrinkage  than  wool  not 
on  the  skin  of  Hke  origin  and  quahty.  This  is  due  to  the  fact  that 
sheep  on  the  way  to  the  market  and  in  the  slaughter  pens  accumulate 
more  vegetable  material  and  dirt  than  do  sheep  on  pastures.  When 
the  pelts  of  these  sheep  are  imported  under  the  present  act,  duty  is 


62 


BEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDU1.E  K. 


paid  on  the  foreign  matter  as  well  as  the  wool.  Certain  wools  when 
skiiied  are  still  subject  to  only  a  sinde  duty  (see  p.  49);  but  since 
il  is  impractical  to  skirt  these  wools  when  imported  on  the  skin,  the 
"skirts,"  wliich  are  the  dirty  locks  about  the  edges  of  the  fleeces, 
increase  the  shiinkage.  Whore  the  duty,  therefore,  is  levied  on  the 
weight  of  the  greasy  wool,  due  allowance  should  be  made  for  the 
extra  foreign  material  adhering  to  wools  imported  on  the  skin.  It  is 
estimated  that  there  is  10  per  cent  more  dnt  in  these  wools  than  in 
similar  wools  not  on  the  skm.  This  question  of  difference  in  shrink- 
age, of  course,  would  not  have  to  be  considered  where  the  duty  was 
levied  on  the  scoured  or  ad  valorem  basis. 

After  wool  on  the  skui  has  been  put  on  an  equal  basis  as  to  condi- 
tion vnth  wools  not  on  the  skin,  the  differential  should  be  adjusted  so 
as  to  cover  the  difference  in  cost  of  pulling  wool  in  the  United  States 
and  abroad.  If  the  differential  is  too  small,  these  wools  will  be 
excluded;  if  it  is  too  large^  the  importation  of  wool  on  the  skin  will 
be  encouraged,  to  the  detriment  of  wool  not  on  the  skin. 

Imports  of  wool  on  the  shin. — ^The  imports  of  wool  on  the  sldn  of  all 
classes  into  the  United  States  are  shown  in  Table  26.  These  imports 
do  not  include  the  v/eight  or  value  of  the  skins. 

Table  2^.— Imports  of  wool  on  the  »hin  of  all  classes  entered  for  comumptimi  into  tM 

United  States, 


Fiscal  year  ending  June  3C>— 


Quantity. 


Pound*. 

im I        1.624,017 

m6 - Ml^''B 

1910 6,517,  hio 

mi: 4.035,068 


Value. 


1172,461 
665,060 
851,2:i3 
754,210 


Revenue 

derived. 


Ad  valorem 
rateof  dutr 

(computed;. 


$91,608 
365,877 
455,274 
311,637 


53.12 
55.01 
53.48 
41.33 


Table  26  includes  all  wool  over  one-quarter  of  an  inch  in  length 
imported  on  the  skin.  It  therefore  includes  a  small  amount  of  wool 
which  was  not  pulled  in  this  country,  but  which  remamed  on  the 
skins  tlirough  the  tamiing  process.  These  tanned  wool  skms  are 
used  in  makmg  coats,  robes,  etc.  Very  recently  it  has  been  decided 
to  admit  free  of  duty  all  wool  skins  on  which  the  wool  is  1  mch  or 
less  in  length.  Hereafter  these  skins  will  be  classified  m  the  sta- 
tistics as  *^fur  skins." 

The  imports  of  wool  on  the  skm  for  1910  show  4,038,113  pounds 
of  class  1  wool.  88,298  pounds  of  class  2  wool,  and  1,391,181  pounds 
of  class  3  wool  valued  at  12  cents  or  less  per  poimd  and  244  pounds 
of  class  3  wool  valued  over  12  cents  per  pound.  The  imports  in 
1911  show  2,612,285  pounds  of  class  1  wool,  96,490  pounds  of  class  2 
wool,  and  1,326,260  pounds  of  class  3  wool  valued  at  12  cents  or 
less  per  pound  and  33  pounds  of  class  3  wool  valued  over  12  cents 

per  pound. 

Production  of  rniTkd  wools  in  the  United  States.— In  1904  there 
were  34  wool-pulling  establishments  w4th  a  capital  of  $2,534,029 
reported  to  the  United  States  Census.  Tlie  estmiated  production  of 
these  establishments  was  16,707,943  pounds  of  pulled  wool.  To  this 
w^as  added  9,201,196  pounds  pulled  under  contract  by  tannmg  and 
slaughtering  establishments  and  16,377,333  pounds  reported  as  a 


BEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON"  SCHEDULE  K. 


63 


by-product  of  slaughtering  and  meat-packing  establishments.  The 
total  wool  pulled  in  the  United  States  in  1904,  then,  was  42,286,472 
pounds.  An  independent  estimate  by  the  Bulletin  of  Wool  Manu- 
facturers gave  the  production  at  42,000,000  pounds,  which  goes  far 
to  confirm  both  figures.  The  bulletin  estimates  the  production  of 
pulled  wool  in  the  United  States  in  1910  at  40,000,000  pounds. 

SUMMARY  OF  RAW  WOOL  STATISTICS. 

Imports  of  all  wools  and  hairs. — The  total  imports  of  all  classes  of 
raw  wool  and  hair  in  all  conditions  into  the  United  States  for  repre- 
sentative years  are  presented  in  Table  27. 


Table  27.- 


■Total  imports  of  wool  and  hair  of  all  classes  entered  for  conmLmpiion  into 

the  United  States. 


Fiscal  year  ending  June  30— 


1896 
1900 
1805 
1910 
1911 


Quantity. 


Ponies. 
222. 647. 543 
128,250,945 
211,287,482 
256,606,637 
165,900,839 


Value. 


$32,144,454 
15,030,220 
35,444,449 
47,687.293 
29,572,259 


Revenue 
derived. 


87,3.52,642 
16,529,987 
21.128,729 
12,482,855 


Ad  valorem 
rate  of  duty 
(computed). 


0) 


48.90 
46.64 
44.31 
42.21 


1  Wool  free  of  duty  under  the  Wilson  bill. 

Table  27  shows  a  marked  falling  off  in  the  imports  of  wool  in 
1911 — a  condition  generally  ascribed  in  the  trade  to  lack  of  confidence 
and  fear  of  adverse  le^slation.  The  computed  ad  valorem  rates 
shown  in  the  table,  winch  ranged  according  to  prices  abroad  from 
42  to  48  per  cent,  are  typical  under  the  present  law.  If  the  duty  on 
scoured  wool  of  33  and  36  cents  per  pound  were  effective,  i.  e.,  if  all 
greasy  wools  imported  shrunk  on  scouring  66 §  per  cent,  the  com- 
puted ad  valorem  rate  would  be  much  higher.  But  due  to  the  fact 
that  the  fighter  shrinkage  a  wool  has  the  less  the  duty  per  clean 
pound,  the  manufacturers  purchase  abroad  the  light-shrinking  wools, 
and  this  condition  lessens  the  protection  which  m  theory  the  wool- 
grower  is  supposed  to  get. 

Exports  of  raw  wool. — In  marked  contrast  to  the  imports  of  raw 
wool  are  the  exports  of  raw  wool  from  the  United  States  which  are 
presented  for  representative  years  in  Table  28 : 

Table  28. — Exports  of  raw  wool  of  domestic  production j  by  countries,  from  the  United 

States. 


Country  of  destination. 

1806 

1900 

1905 

1910 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Belgium 

Pounds. 

412,797 

288,742 

209,397 

250 

l,a59,797 

2,360,470 

2,605,150 

9,378 

153,144 

47,968 

28,516 

16 

174,445 

311,992 

238,316 

1,653 

Pounds. 
75,894 

$18,604 

Pownds. 

Pounds. 

France 

"Germany 

79,676 

J!9,079 

JNetiierlands 

62,503 

1,631,167 

267,245 

163,500 

23,659 

289,909 

40,427 

14,640 

United  Kingdom 

Dominion  of  Canada. . . 
Mexico 

43,260 
,     1,008 

5,800 

186 

3 

32,623 
14,897 

S8,656 
1,421 

Other  coim  tries 

•> 

V04 


BEPORT  OF  T-IRIFF  BOAED  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


In  1896  the  exports  of  raw  wool  were  comparatively  largo  because 
there  was  Mttlo  or  no  demand  in  the  United  States  for  it  and  the 
growers  were  forced  to  seek  a  mai'ket  abroad.  In  recent  years  the 
exports  have  been  negligible.     None  are  reported  for  1911. 

Froduction  of  wool  in  the  United  States,  1890-1910, — The  production 
of  raw  wool,  washed  and  unwashed,  in  the  United  States  for  each 
year  during  the  hist  two  decades  by  main  divisions  of  the  country 
IS  presented  in  Table  29,  on  the  authority  of  the  Bulletin  of  Wool 
Manufacturers,  Boston. 

Table  29. — Productwn  of  wool,  washed  and  unwashed,  in  the  United  States^ 

[Expresaed  in  thousands  of  pounds.] 


Year. 

New 

EnRland 

States. 

Middle 

Atlantic 

&t&t«8. 

■ 

Southern 
States. 

North 
Central 
States. 

Central 
West 

States. 

Far 

Western 

States. 

rulled 
wool. 

Total. 

1S90.. 
1891.. 
1892.. 
1893.. 
1894.. 
189.'>. . 
1896.. 
1897.. 
1898.. 
1899.. 
1900.. 
1901.. 
1902.. 
1903.. 
1904.. 
1905.. 
1906.. 
1907.. 
1008.. 
1909.. 
1910. . 

7,640 
7,531 
8,130 
0,420 
6,294 
4,543 
3.961 

3,384 
3,451 
3,559 
3,525 
3,350 
3,108 
3,090 
2,820 
2,880 
3,193 
3,187 
3,304 
3,2P0 

16,225 
15,861 
16.810 
20,214 
18,140 
13. 128 
10.835 
9,781 
10.043 
10,320 
10,517 
11.214 
12,219 
9,999 
9,849 
9,865 
10,165 
11,012 
11,777 
11,857 
12,210 

51.015 
61,962 
56,970 
57,974 
48,545 
42,830 
37,908 
34,078 
31.207 
28.930 
27,332 
28.565 
24,508 
22,291 
22,078 
22,318 
22.ft38 
21,911 
22.512 
23,734 
23,608 

60,297 
i51,312 
66,023 
60,653 
53,630 
45,851 
35.916 
31,826 
32,956 
35.653 
37.7M 
30,3/8 
41,187 
55,020 
32,880 
32,568 
34,988 
37,382 
37,177 
42, 400 
45,200 

18,617 
16,780 
21,447 
25.140 
23,340 
19,861 
18,440 
10,667 
18,412 
18,618 
19.608 
21,212 
21,008 
20,890 
20.224 
19,722 
19,902 
10  MO 
23.005 
22,446 
23,245 

124.981 
118.955 
127,638 
132, 236 
129,3.^3 
128,054 
125,416 
123,446 
133.850 
141,464 
101,164 
101.578 
171,984 
154,142 
161,062 
166, 195 
166.252 
102,8-17 
172. 4S0 
183.370 
173,780 

40,000 
41,000 
46.000 
47,000 
47,000 
40,000 
40,000 
40,000 
36,801 
33,755 
28,664 
37,000 
42,000 
42.00f) 
42,000 
42,000 
42,000 
42,000 
41,000 
41.000 
40,000 

308,775 
303.401 
333,018 
34S,r>37 
325,211 
294,267 
272,475 
259,153 
206,721 
272,191 
288,637 
302.502 
316,346 
287,450 
291,783 
295,488 
298,915 
298,295 
311,138 
328. Ill 
321,363 

1  rrom  Bulletin  of  Vv'ool  Manufacturers. 


Table  29  shows  a  decided  decline  in  the  production  of  wool  in  the 
New  England,  Middle  Atlantic,  and  Southern  States.  In  the  North 
Central  and  Central  Western  States  the  production  has  remained  sta- 
tionary, while  in  the  far  Western  States  it  has  increased  substantially. 
The  production  of  wool  in  the  whole  United  States  has  remained 
stationary  since  1890. 

In  well-informed  trade  circles  the  presentations  in  tms  report  as  to 
the  number  of  sheep  maintained  and  the  quantity  of  wool  produced, 
not  only  in  the  United  States  but  in  otlier  countries,  are  at  best 
regarded  as  merely  fair  approximations.  It  se^ms  to  be  the  judgment 
of  those  inclose  touch  with  the  domestic  production  that  the  output 
of  w^ool  in  the  United  States  has  been  unitormly  understated,  the  tes- 
timony of  traffic  agents  of  railways  being  adduced  to  show  that  in 
some  eases  at  least  the  estimated  clips  for  given  States  have  been  well 
below  the  actual  shipments  for  a  given  period. 

Wool  produced  in  the  United  States,  hy  States,  i^iO.— Table  30  pre- 
sents the  production  of  wool  in  the  United  States,  by  States,  for  1910. 
It  is  here  estimated  on  the  authority  of  the  Bulletin  of  Wool  Manu- 
facturers that  the  average  greasy  w^eiglit  of  the  fleeces  shorn  in  the 
United  States  in  1910  was  6.7  pounds;  that  all  wools  produced  m  the 
United  States  shrink  on  an  average  of  CO  per  cent;  and  that  the 
average  price  of  wool  per  scoured  pound  on  October  1,  1910,  ,was  51 


eat    Hall 

BEPORT  OF   TABIFF   BOARD   ON   SCHEDULE  fc^^Ultlllla    I Jft6rt|.g||- 

cents.  The  greasy  weight  of  the  wool  produced,  281,362,750  pounds 
(exclusive  of  pulled  wool),  was  estimated  to  be  equal  to  112,605,813 
pounds  of  scoured  wool  valued  at  $57,429,838.  Table  30  also  shows 
the  relative  importance  of  the  different  States  in  the  production  of 
wool. 

Table  30. — Wool  product  of  the  United  States,  1910. 
(From  Bulletin  of  the  National  Association  of  Wool  Manufacturers,  December,  1910.] 


Maine , 

New  Hampsbire 

Vermont 

Massachusetts 

Rhode  Island 

Connecticut 

New  York 

New  Jersey 

Pennsylvania 

Delaware 

Maryland 

West  Virginia 

Kentucky 

Ohio 

Michigan 

Indiana 

Illinois 

Wisconsin 

Minnesota 

Iowa 

Missouri 

Virginia 

North  Carolina. 

South  Carolina 

Georgia 

Florida 

Alabama 

Mississippi 

Louisiana 

Arkansas 

Tennessee 

Kansas 

Nebraska 

South  Dakota 

North  Dakota 

Montana 

Wyoming 

Idaho 

Washington 

Oregon 

California 

Nevada 

Utah 

Colorado 

Arizona 

New  Mexico 

Texas 

Oklahoma  and  Indian 
Territory 


Total. 
Pulled  wool . 


Total  product,1910 


Number  of 
sheep  of 
shearing 

age.  Apr.  1, 
1910. 


210,000 

70,000 

180,000 

35,000 

7,500 

35,000 

825,000 

50.000 

1,050,000 

7.000 

130.000 

600.000 

800,000 

2.600,000 

1.700,000 

900,000 

700,000 

900,000 

375,000 

800,000 

860.000 

365,000 

204,000 

50,000 

225,000 

115,000 

160,000 

150,000 

155,000 

200,000 

291,000 

175,000 

250,000 

625,000 

270,000 

4,800,000 

4.(JoO,000 

2, 600, 000 

450,000 

1, 750, 000 

1,900,000 

850,000 

2. 100, 000 

1,400,000 

825,000 

3,200.000 

1,325,000 

80,000 


41,999,500 


Average 

weight 

of  fleece, 

1910. 


Pounds. 
6 
6 

6.5 
6.2 
5.3 
5.25 
6 

5.5 
6 

5.5 
5.2 
5.75 
4.75 
6.5 
6.75 
6.5 
7 

6.75 
6.8 
6.75 
7 

4.5 
3.75 
3.75 
3 
3. 
3. 
4 

3.7 
4 

4.25 
7.5 
6.5 
6.5 
6.5 
7 

7.75 
7.3 
9 

8.25 
7 
7 

6.75 
6.5 
6 
6 
6.75 

6.5 


,25 
.5 


G.7 


Wool 

washed  and 

unwashed, 

1910. 


Pounds. 

1,260,000 

420,000 

1,170,000 

217,000 

39,  750 

183,750 

4,950,000 

275,000 

6,300,000 

38,500 

676,000 

3,450,000 

3,800,000 

16,900,000 

11, 475, 000 

5,850.000 

4,900,000 

6,075.000 

2,550,000 

5,400,000 

6,020,000 

1,642,500 

765,000 

187,500 

675,000 

373,750 

500,000 

600,000 

573,500 

800,000 

1,236,750 

1,312,500 

1,625,000 

4,062,500 

1,755,000 

33,000,000 

36,037,500 

18.980,000 

4.050,000 

14,437.500 

13,300.000 

5,950,000 

14, 175, 000 

9,100,000 

4. 950. 000 

19, 200, 000 

8, 943, 750 

520,000 


281,362,750 
40,000.000 


321,362,750 


Per 
cent  of 
shrink- 
age, 1910. 


40 
50 
51 
42 
42 
42 
48 
47 
48 
45 
43 
49 
38 
51 
50 
45 
60 
47 
48 
48 
47 
37 
42 
42 

4d 
40 
42 
41 
40 
40 
64 
60 
60 
60 
64 
68 
65 
69 
68 
66 
68 
66 
65 
65 
65 
67 

67 


Wool 

scoiu-ed, 

1910. 


Pounds. 
756,000 
210. 


60 
27 


573 

125 

23 

106 

2,574 

145 

3,276 

21 

385 

1, 759 

2,356 

8,281 

5, 737 

3,217 

2,450 

3,219 

1,326 

2,808 

3,190 

1,034 

443 

108 

405 

224 

336 

348 

3.38 

480 

742 

472 

650 

1,625 

702 

12,096 

11,532 

6,643 

1,255 

4,620 

4,522 

1,904 

4,819 

3,185 

1,732 

6,720 

2,951 

171 


112,605 
29,200 


000 
300 
860 
055 
575 
000 
750 
000 
175 
320 
500 
000 
000 
500 
500 
000 
750 
000 
000 
600 
775 
700 
750 
000 
250 
000 
000 
365 
000 
050 
500 
000 
000 
000 
000 
000 
000 
500 
000 
000 
000 
500 
000 
500 
000 
438 

600 


813 
000 


141,805,813 


Average 

value  per 

scoured 

pound, 

Oct.  1, 

1910.1 


Cents. 
45 
49 
49 
45 
45 
45 
50 
46 
55 
46 
45 
57 
46 
55 
49 
46 
46 
42 
42 
46 
45 
47 
42 
41 
41 
41 
41 
41 
41 
40 
43 
52 
52 
54 
54 
56 
55 
52 
54 
53 
46 
54 
52 
47 
53 
51 
55 

48 


Total 

value, 

1910. 


51 
51.75 


51.12 


1  22.53=average  value  unscoured. 
32080°— H.  Doc.  342,  G2-2,  xo\  1 5 


$340,200 

102,900 

280,917 

56,637 

10,375 

47,959 

1,237,000 

67,045 

1,801,800 

9,741 

173, 394 

1,002,915 

1,083,760 

4,554,550 

2, 811. 375 

1,480,050 

1,127,000- 

1,352,295 

556,920 

1.291,680 

1,435,770 

486,344 

186,354 

44,588 

166,050 

91,943 

137, 760 

142,680 

138.730 

192,000 

319.082 

245, 700 

338,000 

877. 500 

»79,080 

6. 773,  760 

6,342.600 

3, 4,54, 360 

677,970 

2,448,600 

2,080,120 

1,028,160 

2,506.140 

1, 496, 950 

918,225 

3.427,200 

1,623,291 

82,368 


57, 429, 838 
15,010,000 


72, 439, 838 


66 


BEPORT  OF  TAEIFF  BOAED  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


Production  of  wool  in  leading  countries. — The  production  of  wool 
for  10  years  in  tlie  important  countries  of  the  world  producing  class 
1  and  2  wools  is  sho^n  in  Table  31.  The  figures  for  the  United 
Kingdom  and  the  Continent  of  Europe,  from  the  circular  of  Ilelmuth 
Schwartze  &  Co.,  London,  are  for  wool  washed  on  the  slieep's  back 
The  figures  for  Australia  and  New  Zealand,  from  official  publica- 
tions of  the  respective  countries,  include  wool  exported,  wool  con- 
sumed locally,  and  wool  on  the  skin.  The  figures  for  Argentina  and 
Uruguay,  from  the  circular  of  Wenz  &  Co.,  Rheims,  France,  are 
exports  and  do  not  include  a  few  million  pounds  used  locally.  South 
African  figures  are  also  exports  from  the  British  Colonial  Abstract. 


Table  31. — 


Production  of  raw  wool  in  tJie  leading  wool-produdnj  countries  of  the  world. 
[Expressed  in  millions  of  pounds.] 


Year. 

United 

States. 

United 
Kingdom 

(fleece 
washed). 

Continent 
"'(&'  Australia. 

washed). 

New 
Zealand. 

♦. 

Argentina . 

Uruguay. 

South 
Africa. 

1900 

288.6 

302.5 
316.3 
287.4 
291.8 
295.5 
298.9 
298.3 
311.1 
328.1 
321.4 

141 
138 
136 
133 
132 
131 
130 
131 
134 
142 
143 

dan  \          Ana  a 

156.2 
164.0 
167. 4 
177.6 
179.4 
171.7 
189.5 
207.8 
200.5 
223.9 

439.6 
379.0 
435.6 
437.4 
385.1 
377.4 
3T9.6 
357.6 
392.4 
401.2 
327.2 

88.2 

89.9 

89.1 

108.0 

89.1 

85.8 

80.7 

98.5 

111.6 

127.4 

124.3 

30.0 

76.0 

89.0 

77.0 

75.0 

77.0 

88.8 

97.8 

104.3 

130.9 

121.7 

1901 

450 
450 
450 

450 
440 
430 
420 
420 
420 
420 

543.1 
413.3 
414.1 

473. 6 
522.1 
577.7 
690.1 
642.2 
718.0 

1902 

1903 

1904 

1905 

1906 

1907 

1908 

1909 

1910 

Commerce  in  wool  for  hading  countries,— Ts^Aq  32  gives  the  imports 
and  exports  of  raw  wool  for  leading  countries.  The  reexports  of 
wool  from  the  United  Kingdom  have  been  included  in  her  exports, 
because  of  their  great  importance.  The  important  consuming  coun- 
tries appear  as  the  United  States,  the  United  Kingdom,  Germany, 
and  France.  Belgium,  Italy,  Austria-Hungary,  and  Kussia  are  sec- 
ond in  importance  only  to  the  above  countries.  The  great  producing 
and  exporting  countries  appear  as  Australia,  New  Zealand,  Soutli 
Africa,  Argentina,  and  Uruguay.  The  imports  and  exports  of  raw 
wool  for  other  countries  are  given  in  Table  229,  on  page  257. 


I 


KEPOET  OF   TAKIFF  BOAED  ON   SCHEDULE   K, 


67 


Table  32. — Imports  and  exports  of  raw  wool  for  leading  countries  in  1909  and  1910. 


United  States 

United  Kingdom  i 

Germany 

France 

Belgium 

Italy 

Austria-Hungary 

Eussia 

Australia  • 

New  Zealand 

British  South  Africa 

Argentina 

Uruguay 'i 


1909 


Imports. 


Exports. 


Quantity. 


Value. 


Quantity. 


Value. 


Founds. 

203,709,660 

803,432,648 

431,902,084 

621,751,213 

131,380,(585 

23,857,740 

66,272,481 

94; 975, 797 

648, 411 

144,376 

14,580 

179, 732 

3,589 


Dollars. 

33,775,211 

155,175,044 

84,917,210 

122,447,978 

34,504,801 

5, 897, 088 

16,719,599 

22,663,567 

114,747 

33,613 

1,421 

23,600 

421 


Pounds. 

28,376 
1452,375,953 

37,824,102 

90,888,383 

40,051,742 

4,253,990 

10,135,048 

20.685,087 

602,606,140 

189, 083, 703 

130,981,518 

389,513,137 

128,708,080 


DoUara. 

4,668 
190,841,009 

10,407,240 

26,257,285 

17,438,244 

1,212,135 

2,604,377 

2,532,685 

123, 728, 193 

30,087,604 

18,144,599 

57,824.490 

19,317,304 


United  States 

United  Kingdom  i. . 

Germany 

France 

Belgium 

Italy 

Austria-Hungary 

Australia' 

New  Zealand 

British  South  Africa. 
Argentina 


1910 


Imports. 


Quantity. 


Value. 


Exports. 


Quantity. 


Value. 


Pounds. 
251,969,909 

797, 418, 403 
436,386,081 
606, 473, 776 
355,584,811 
27,070,063 
60,019,353 


11,549 
243,245 


Dollars. 

46,675,784 

164,543,845 

92, 762, 880 

119,722,140 

80,936,432 

6, 257, 251 

15, 185, 422 

37,857 


1.329 
31,942 


Pounds. 

47,520 

1371,616,883 

36,312,627 

81, 705, 783 

241,457,748 

3,386,927 

8,721,618 

604,638,418 


121,672,258 
332,010,555 


Dollars. 

10,077 

178,995,802 

10,308,970 

23,604,479 

70,813,074 

1,032,745 

2, 448, 415 

139,395,267 

8  40,378,873 

18,643,143 

56,788,030 


1  The  exports  for  the  United  Kingdom  include,  for  1909,  390,106,753  pounds  of  reexported  wool,  valued 
at  $77,457,818;  for  1910,  334,043,583  pounds  of  reexported  wool,  valued  at  S09,007,1S1. 
>  Australian  data  for  1910  are  provisional. 
» From  Daily  Consular  and  Trade  Reports,  Dec.  6, 1911. 

Paragraph  372.— SOFT  WASTES. 

Top  waste,  Blubbing  waste,  roving  waste,  ring  waste,  and  garaetted  waste,  thirty 
cents  per  pound. 

Nature  of  soft  wastes  in  S72. — The  wastes  enumerated  in  paragraph 
372  (with  the  exception  of  garnetted  waste)  are  known  in  the  trade 
as  soft  wastes.  Soft  wastes,  which  are  produced  by  the  worsted 
industry,  are  confined  to  wastes  which  can  be  reconverted  into  the 
material  from  which  they  came  and  used  for  the  same  purpose  for 
which  that  material  was  originally  intended.  The  term  "waste" 
used  in  this  connection  is  in  fact  misleading.  Tlie  reconversion  of 
these  wastes  into  a  continuous  rope  of  wool  is  an  inexpensive  process 
and  from  this  form  they  may  be  spun  into  yarns  of  only  a  slightly 
lower  count  than  the  one  originally  intended.  Soft  wastes  seU  for 
approximately  the  same  price  as  scoured  wool  of  equal  quality. 

Kinds  of  soft  waste. — ^While  wool  is  being  combed,  i.  e.,  being  con- 
verted into  a  continuous  sliver  of  parallel  fibers  called  a  top,  and 
while  it  is  being  subsequently  gilled— a  process  consisting  of  both 


INTENTIONAL  SECOND  EXPOSURE 


EEPORT  OF   TAKIFF   BOARD  OX   SCHEDULE   K. 


67 


Table  32. — Imports  and  exports  of  ran:  wool  for  laidinfj  countrits  in  1909  and  1910. 


United  >tates 

liiiled  Kingdoiu  '... 

Cii-naauy 

FrancL- 

rieli^ium 

lt:,ily 

Ausiriu-lluiigdry 

Iliissiii 

Austnilia* 

Is'ew  Zealand 

liritish  South  Africa. , 

Art-'cr.nna 

LiLiguay 


I'JU'J 


Imports. 


1  Exports. 


Pounds. 
•2m,  7(19. 

431,902, 

(■.21,751, 

131.380, 

23,857, 

06.272, 

94,975, 

648, 

144, 

14, 

179. 


(it':) 
f.'i5> 
0S4 
213 
t>85 
740 
4S1 
797 
411 
370 
580 
732 
5S9 


Dollars. 

3:^.775.211 

155.175,044 

84.917,210 

122,4  47,978 

34.504,801 

5. 897, 088 

10.719,599 

22,003,507 

114,747 

33,013 

1.421 

23, 000 

421 


QuuolUy. 


rounds. 

2s. 370 

1  4.52  375, 953 

37,824,102 

90,888,383 

40,051,742 

4,25:5,990 

10,13.5,048 

20. 085, 087 

002,  (KX;,  140 

189.  (*3, 70:3 

130,981,518 

3S9,.513.]37 

128, 70S.  080 


\'alue. 


1 


Dollars. 

4.  or.s 

190.841,009 

10, 407, 2 10 

20,257,285 

17,438,244 

1,212,135 

2,004,377 

2, 532, 085 

123,728,193 

30,087,004 

18,144,599 

.57, 824. 490 

19,317,304 


1910 


liuporl<. 


Exports. 


United  States 

United  King<ioni  i 

f;  ermany 

I' ranee 

BelKiiua 

Italy 

Austria-Hungary 

Australia  2 

New  Zealand 

Brit  ish  Soutti  Africa 

ArKcutina 


Quantity. 


Pouyiis. 
251,9<i9,9i)9 
797.418.403 
430,380,081 
0(X),473,770 
355,584.811 
27,070,003 
00,019,353 


\'lllU(\ 


Dollars. 

40.075,784 

104.543,845 

82, 702, 880 

119.722,140 

80, 930. 432 

(1257,251 

15,185,422 

37 , 857 


1 1 . 549 
243.245 


1,320 
31.912 


Qisautiiy. 


round-'-:. 

47. 520 

1371,610,88.3 

.3(j,312,027 

81.705.7.8.3 

241,457,7-18 

3,38fi,927 

8,721,018 

C>'.4.!.:]8.418 


Value. 


121.(172,258 
332.010,5.55 


Dollars. 

lu 

<''77 

» 78,995 

80J 

10,308,970 

23.604,479 

70,813,074 

1,032, 

745 

2, 448, 

415 

139.. 395. 

2(;7 

3  40, 378, 

873 

18,043, 

143 

.'"'(;.78^. 

030 

1  The  exports  for  the  irnited  Kingdom  include,  for  1000,  3W,100,7.'3  pounds  of  reexported  wool,  valued 
at  S77,457,8lS;  lor  1910,  334.(;43,583  pounds  of  reexported  wool,  valued  at  St*9,t>07,i:il. 

2  Ausiralian  data  for  1910  are  provisional. 

3  From  Daily  Consular  and  Trade  Keports,  Dec.  0, 1911. 

Paragraph  372.— SOFT  WASTES. 

Top  waste,  Blubbing  waste,  roving  waste,  riii;2?  \va;~te,  and  gametted  waste,  thirty 
cents  per  pound. 

Nature  of  soft  wastes  in  372. — The  wastes  enumerated  in  paraj>rapli 
372  (witli  the  exception  of  garnetted  waste)  are  known  in  the  tiade 
as  soft  wastes.  Soft  wastes,  which  are  produced  by  tlie  worsted 
industry,  are  confined  to  wastes  which  can  be  reconverted  into  the 
material  from  which  they  came  and  used  for  the  same  purpose  for 
wliich^  that  material  was  originally  intended.  The  term  *' waste" 
used  in  tins  connection  is  in  fact  misleadinp^.  Tlie  reconversion  of 
these  wastes  into  a  continuous  rope  of  wool  is  an  inex])ensive  process 
and  from  this  form  tliey  may  be  spun  into  yarns  of  only  a  s%htlv 
lower  count  than  the  one  onginally  intentled.  Soft  wastes  sell  for 
approximately  the  same  price  as  scoured  wool  of  ec^ual  quality. 

Kinds  of  soft  waste. — While  wool  is  being  combed,  i.  e.,  being  con- 
verted into  a  continuous  sliver  of  parallel  libers  called  a  top,  and 
while  it  is  being  subsequently  gilled— -a  process  consisting  of  both 


68 


BEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


drawing  and  combing — pieces  of  the  top  are  broken  off  or  become 
entangled  in  the  machinery,  and  these  the  machine  tender  removes. 
These  pieces  are  top  waste.  Slubbing  and  roving  wastes  are  pro- 
duced m  drawing — a  sort  of  preUminary  spinning  process  found  in 
the  worsted  industry  between  combing  and  spmning.  The  wool 
when  it  enters  the  drawing  room  is  called  top;  after  the  first  twist 
has  been  given  to  the  sliver,  it  is  called  slubbing  and  any  broken 

J)ieces  of  slubbing  are  known  as  slubbing  waste.  When  the  wool 
eaves  the  drawing  room,  it  is  called  a  rovmg — a  comparatively  thin, 
continuous  strand  of  parallel  fiber  which  is  ready  to  be  spun  into  a 
yarn  without  excessive  draft.  Any  broken  bits  of  roving  are  roving 
waste.  In  the  French  system  of  worsted  spinning  (see  p.  112)  the 
bits  of  roving  which  encircle  the  clearer  rollers  o!  the  'Wle''  are 
called  ring  waste.  The  wool  when  pulled  off  the  rollers  by  the 
machine  tender  is  in  the  form  of  ringlets  which  may  be  recarded 
and  recombed  just  as  new  wool.  Garnetted  waste  properly  does  not 
belong  among  the  soft  wastes  since  it  can  not  be  reclaimed  in  its 
original  form.  In  the  process  of  spinning  a  small  per  cent  of  the 
yarn  becomes  entangled  in  the  rollers  and  must  be  removed  as 
thread  waste.  This  waste  reduced  to  fiber  by  a  gamett  machine  is 
garnetted  waste.  The  threads  are  unraveled  and  torn  by  the  action 
of  the  iron  teeth  on  the  cylinders  of  the  maclune.  As  a  rule,  this 
waste  is  sold  by  the  worsted  industry  to  other  branches  of  wool 
manufactures. 

Soft  wastes  are  seldom,  if  ever,  found  in  the  markets  of  the  United 
States.  Garnetted  waste,  however,  is  extensively  dealt  in.  It  is 
classified  according  to  the  quality  of  wool  from  wliich  it  was  made. 

English  quotations  for  waste. — Quotations  for  garnetted  waste  and 
laps  (soft  waste)  in  England  are  given  in  Table  33.  They  were 
obtained  by  the  American  consul  at  Bradford  from  leading  English 
trade  authorities. 

Table  33. — Quotations  in  England  for  garnetted  waste  and  laps  (soft  waste). 


Crossbred  garnetted  thread  waste 

Merino  garnetted  thread  waste 

Super  seventies  garnetted  thread  waste 

White  merino  laps 

Colored  merino  laps 

Wliite  crossbred  laps 


1909 


Cts.  per  lb. 
19. 3-19. 8 
37.0 
36.5-38.5 
46. 6-48.  2 
42. 6-43. 1 
21.3-22.3 


1910 


Ct».  per  lb. 
21.3-22.3 
37.0-37.5 
38. 5-39. 0 
49. 7-SO.  7 
43. 1-44. 6 
25.9 


1911 


Cts.  per  lb. 

22.3-2.3.3 
38.0 

39.0-40.1 
47.7 
42.1 

22. 8-23. 8 


Top  waste  under  the  act  of  1894. — '' '  Wool  waste '  as  employed  in  the 
tariff  acts,'*  the  court  says  in  46  Federal  Reporter,  461,  '' signifies  such 
parts  or  particles  of  wool  as  are  thrown  off  in  the  several  processes  of 
manufacture  of  wool  in  wool  or  worsted  fabrics,  and  does  not  include 
wool  which  has  been  prepared  for  spinning,  and  artificially  and  in- 
tentionally made  into  a  form  like  such  parts  or  particles,  even  if  some- 
times called  '  waste '  in  trade."  This  decision  was  rendered  necessary 
because  the  effort  was  made  under  the  act  of  1894  when  wool  wastes 
were  free  of  duty  to  import  as  top  waste  tops  intentionally  broken  up. 

Rate  of  duty  on  soft  wastes. — Top  waste,  slubbing  waste,  roving 
waste,  riiig  waste,  and  garnetted  waste  are  dutiable  at  30  cents  per 
pound.     These  wastes,  except  garnetted  waste,  may  be  used  as  sub- 


I 


n 


REPORT  OF   TARIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


•O 
G 
03 

a> 

C3 
CO 

2 


S  • 

•s  a 

fa 

-si 

C  a> 
03  __ 

o:t3 

OS  *^ 


£ 


<U  o 

^  o 

«  'So 

Eg 

"So 
^  .- 

^  s 

S  £ 


o 

»0 


Pu 


o 


s 


69 


stitutes  for  scoured  wool,  and  for  this  reason  the  duty  on  them  was 
made  approximately  the  same  as  on  scoured  wool.  (Class  1  scoured 
wool,  33  cents  per  pound.)  But,  as  shown  under  paragraph  369, 
the  duty  on  scoured  wool  acts  to  prevent  importation  and  it  follows 
that  the  duty  on  soft  wastes  does  likewise. 

Imports  of  soft  wastes. — There  was  no  importation  of  these  wastes 
either  in  1910  or  1911.  In  1909  there  was  imported  10  pounds  of 
slubbing,  ring,  and  garnetted  waste  on  which  a  computed  ad  valorem 
rate  of  150  per  cent  was  paid;  and  244  pounds  of  top  and  roving  waste 
on  which  the  computed  ad  valorem  rate  was  98.93  per  cent.  In  1905 
the  imports  of  top  and  roving  waste  amounted  to  20  pounds,  on  wliich 
the  computed  ad  valorem  rate  was  120  per  cent.  In  1900,  2,317 
pounds  of  these  wastes  were  imported,  on  wliich  the  computed  ad 
valorem  rate  was  84.77  per  cent.  The  lower  ad  valorem  rate  in  1900 
is  due  to  the  higher  price  paid  for  the  waste  abroad,  for  it  is  obvious 
that  under  a  flat  specific  rate  the  ad  valorem  duty  will  bo  less  on  high 
priced  than  on  low  priced  materials.  In  1896,  when  wastes  of  wool 
were  free,  the  fine  wastes  and  low  wastes  were  all  grouped  together 
in  the  import  statistics.  In  that  year  5,958,633  pounds,  valued  at 
$1,443,965,  were  imported.  The  average  foreign  price  as  shown  by 
these  figures  was  about  24  cents  per  pound,  from  wliich  we  may  infer 
that  the  largest  per  cent  of  this  waste  was  of  good  quality. 

All  the  wastes  mentioned  in  paragraph  372,  it  should  be  remem- 
bered, are  products  of  the  worsted  industry.  All-  of  them  except 
garnetted  wastes  are,  as  a  rule,  worked  up  in  the  worsted  mills;  the 

farnetted  waste  is  sold  to  the  carded  woolen  industry,  hosiery  and 
nit  goods  industry,  or  other  branches  of  wool  manufactures. 

Paragraph  373.— SHODDY,  NOILS,  AND  THE  HARD  WASTES. 

Shoddy,  tweiity-fi\-e  cents  per  pound;  noils,  wool  extract,  yam  waste,  thread  waste, 
and  all  other  wastes  composed  wholly  or  in  part  of  wool,  and  not  specially  provided 
for  in  this  section,  twenty  cents  per  pound. 

SHODDY   OR   RECLAIMED  WOOL. 

Shoddy  is  a  general  term  used  to  designate  any  wool  reclaimed  from 
woolen  rags.  Specifically,  as  distinguished  from  mungo  (par.  374),  it 
is  wool  reclaimed  from  soft  woolen  goods,  such  as  stockings,  sweaters, 
and  soft  merino  dress  goods.  The  French  call  shoddy  "renaissance 
wool,"  i.  e.,  wool  fiber  reborn  or  reclaimed  from  rags.  Shoddy  is  not 
necessarily  the  cheap,  undesirable  material  which  many  take  it  to  be. 
It  IS  not  customary  to  use  shoddy  alone,  but  blencled  with  wool, 
wastes,  or  noils,  it  makes  a  fabric  wliich  is  both  serviceable  and  cheap. 
Wool  extract  is  shoddy  made  from  the  wool  in  fabrics  which  are  macle 
m  part  of  cotton.  Before  the  rags  are  reduced  to  fiber  the  cotton  is  car- 
bonized out  of  them  by  a  chemical  agent,  such  as  sulphuric  or  hydro- 
chlonc  acid,  wliich  injures  the  animal  fiber  sHghtly  if  at  all.  The  proc- 
ess of  carbomzing  or  extracting  is  becoming  more  and  more  common, 
llie  old  method  subjected  the  rags  to  a  sulphuric  acid  bath,  but  the 
most  up-to-date  shoddy  mills  now  use  muriatic  acid  gas.  The  rags  are 
tirst  thorougldy  dried  and  then  subjected  to  the  action  of  muriatic 
acid  gas  for  several  hours.  Tliis  reduces  the  cotton  in  the  goods  to 
carbon  Dusting  and  washing  follow.  Carbonizing  in  some  mills 
nas  taken  the  place  of  seaming,  i.  e.,  the  removal  of  bits  of  cotton 
thread  and  hmng  by  hand.    In  these  mills  aU  rags  are  carbonized, 


INTENTIONAL  SECOND  EXPOSURE 


m 


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BEPOBT  OF   TAEIFF   BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


69 


stitutes  for  scoured  wool,  and  for  this  reason  the  duty  on  them  was 
made  approximately  the  same  as  on  scoured  wool.  (Class  1  scoured 
wool,  33  cents  per  pound.)  But,  as  shown  under  paragraph  369, 
the  duty  on  scoured  wool  acts  to  prevent  importation  and  it  follows 
that  the  duty  on  soft  wastes  does  liKewise. 

^  Imports  of  soft  wastes. — There  was  no  importation  of  these  wastes 
either  in  1910  or  1911.  In  1909  there  was  imported  10  pounds  of 
shibbing,  ring,  and  garnetted  waste  on  wliich  a  computed  ad  valorem 
rate  of  150  per  cent  was  paid;  and  244  pounds  of  top  and  roving  waste 
on  which  the  computed  ad  valorem  rate  was  98.93  per  cent.  In  1905 
the  imports  of  top  and  roving  waste  amounted  to  20  pounds,  on  wliich 
the  computed  ad  valorem  rate  was  120  per  cent.  In  1900,  2,317 
pounds  of  these  wastes  were  imported,  on  which  the  computed  ad 
valorem  rate  was  84.77  per  cent.  The  lower  ad  valorem  rate  in  1900 
is  due  to  the  liigher  price  paid  for  the  waste  abroad,  for  it  is  obvious 
that  under  a  flat  specific  rate  the  ad  valorem  duty  will  bo  less  on  high 
priced  than  on  low  priced  materials.  In  1896,  when  wastes  of  wool 
were  free,  the  fine  wastes  and  low  wastes  were  all  grouped  together 
m  the  import  statistics.  In  that  year  5,958,633  pounds,  valued  at 
$1,443,965,  were  imported.  The  average  foreign  price  as  shown  by 
these  figures  was  about  24  cents  per  pound,  from  wliich  we  may  infer 
that  the  largest  per  cent  of  this  waste  was  of  good  quality. 

All  the  wastes  mentioned  in  paragraph  372,  it  should  "be  remem- 
bered, are  products  of  the  woi-sted  industrj^  All  of  them  except 
garnetted  wastes  are,  as  a  rule,  worked  up  ih  the  worsted  mills;  the 
garnetted  waste  is  sold  to  the  carded  woolen  industry,  hosiery  and 
knit  goods  industry,  or  other  branches  of  wool  manufactures. 

Paragraph  373.~SHODDY,  NOILS,  AND  THE  HARD  WASTES. 

Shoddy,  twenty-five  cents  per  pound;  noils,  wool  extract,  yarn  waste,  thread  waste, 
and  all  other  wastes  composed  wholly  or  in  part  of  wool,  and  not  specially  provided 
for  in  this  section,  twenty  cents  per  pound. 

SHODDY   OR   RECLAIMED   WOOL. 

Shoddy  is  a  general  term  used  to  designate  any  wool  reclaimed  from 
woolen  rags.  Specifically,  as  distinguished  from  mungo  (par.  374),  it 
is  wool  reclaimed  from  soft  woolen  goods,  such  as  stockings,  sweaters, 
and  soft  merino  dress  goods.  The  French  call  shoddy  ''renaissance 
wool,"  i.  e.,  wool  fiber  reborn  or  reclaimed  from  rags.  Shoddy  is  not 
necessarily  the  cheap,  undesirable  material  wliicli  many  take  it  to  be. 
It  IS  not  customary  to  use  shoddy  alone,  but  blended  with  wool, 
wastes,  or  noils,  it  makes  a  fabric  wliich  is  both  ser\dceable  and  cheap. 
Wool  extract  is  shoddy  made  from  the  wool  in  fabrics  wliich  are  made 
m  part  of  cotton.  Before  the  rags  are  reduced  to  fiber  the  cotton  is  car- 
bomzed  out  of  them  by  a  cliemical  agent,  such  as  sulphuric  or  hydro- 
chloric acid,  which  injures  the  animal  fiber  shghtly  if  at  all.  The  proc- 
ess of  carbonizing  or  extracting  is  becoming  more  and  more  common, 
llio  old  method  subjected  the  rags  to  a  sulphuric  acid  bath,  but  the 
most  up-to-d  ate  shoddy  mills  now  use  muriatic  acid  gas.  The  rags  are 
lirst  thorougldy  dried  and  then  subjected  to  the  action  of  muriatic 
acid  gas  for  several  hours.  This  reduces  tlie  cotton  in  the  goods  to 
carbon.  Dusting  and  wasliing  follow.  Carbonizing  in  some  mills 
lias  taken  the  place  of  seaming,  i.  e.,  the  removal  of  bits  of  cotton 
tHread  and  hmng  by  hand.     In  these  miUs  aU  rags  are  carbonized, 


70 


REPORT  OF  TABIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDTTLE  K. 


71 


i 


which  insures  both  the  reduction  of  all  cotton  to  carbon  and  the  puri- 
fying of  tlie  rags.  Rags  wliich  have  been  carbonized  but  not  reduced 
to  shoddy  are  dutiable,  not  as  ra^,  but  as  shoddy.     (T.  D.  18151.) 

Process  of  making  shoddy. — In  Qie  process  of  making  shoddy  the  first 
operations,  already  mentioned,  are  carbonizing  or  seaming  and  dust- 
ing. The  rags  are  now  mixed  and  oiled,  the  oil  being  applied  to  make 
the  fibers  shp  more  readily  in  the  next  operation  of  grmding.  The 
rag  grinder  or  picker  consists  of  a  pair  of  rollers  between  winch  tlie 
rags  are  firmly  held  as  they  pass  mto  the  macliines.  Before  these 
roBers  is  a  rapidly  revolving  cyHnder  covered  with  steel  pins,  and 
these  pins  unravdL  and  tease  out  the  cloth  structure  until  it  is  reduced 
to  a  fibrous  mass.  The  tiireads  which  this  process  does  not  destroy 
are  subsequently  burs  ted  and  teased  out  on  a  garnett  macliinc  or  card. 
Shoddy,  although  short  in  staple  and  tender,  has  the  appearance  of 
dyed  wool.  It  is  either  left  the  color  of  the  rags  from  which  it  was 
made  or  it  is  redyed. 

Grades  of  shoddy. — There  is  no  such  clear-cut  classification  of  shod- 
dies as  there  is  of  wools,  yarns,  and  tops.  The  kinds  of  shoddies  are 
as  numerous  as  tlie  combmations  whicli  may  be  made  of  rags  of  vary- 
ing structure, color,  and  condition.  The  very  best  shoddies  are  made 
from  new  wliite  rags,  sucli  as  hght  dress  goods,  sweater  and  flannel 
clippings.  In  fact,  the  shoddies  made  from  new  rags  and  tailor 
chppings  are  generally  more  valuable  than  those  made  from  old 
rags.  Old,  soft,  woolen  rags,  such  as  stockings,  sweaters,  etc.,  make 
better  shoddies  than  fulled  and  hard-woven  rags.  It  is  from  these 
old  and  heavily  f ulle<l  as  well  as  hard-woven  rags  tliat  mungo  and  the 
very  cheap  shoddies  are  made.  These  are  used  in  cotton-warp  horse 
blankets,  coarse  felts,  etc.  Slioddies  are  designated  in  tlie  market 
report  by  the  name  of  the  rag  from  wliich  they  are  made.  The  quo- 
tations given  in  Table  34  are  furnished  by  an  authority  m  the  shoddj 
trade  and  are  quotations  in  th^  United  States  for  May,  1911.  As  it 
is  customary  to  sell  shoddies  by  sample,  tliese  prices  are  for  shoddies 
the  samples  of  which  are  in  the  office  of  the  Tariff  Board. 

Table  2A,—Quolaiims  in  the  United  Staleifor  shoddies. 

[From  a  tntlo  snirce.] 


Shoddy  from— 

Wliite  knit • ■■;^'-- ...  r; :. . 

Carbonized  fine  white  8oft 

Carbonized  red  flannel 

Mixed  bine  knit 

White  sweater  cuttings 

Carbonixed  coarse  dark  merinos 

Carboniased  fine  light  merinos 

Blnsaerge 

Carbonixed  mixed  ddaines 

Carbonized  soft  black  Brussels  carpet. 

Carbonized  wool  carpets 

Seamed  black  worsted  cloth 

Plain  black  skirted  cloth 

Dark  skirted  cloth 

Blue  skirted  worsted  cloth 

Fine  black  worsted  clips 

Carbonized  fine  lip;ht  worsted  cMpa 

Bark  worsted  clips 

Coarse  dark  clips 

Government  khaki  cUpa 


Mav, 
1911. 


Cents  pn 
pound. 
30 
U 
16 
13 
39 
10 
22 
14 
13 

ID 

16 

9 

8 

12 
26 
22 
13 
9 
33 


Representative  shoddy  prices  in  England. — Shoddies  vary  widely  in 
qualities,  and  at  best  the  names  by  which  thev  are  designated  define 
flie  shoddy  only  witMn  hmits.  The  Enghsh  quotations  given  in 
Table  35  were  obtained  by  the  American  consul  at  Bradford  from 
leading  English  trade  authorities  and  give  a  good  idea  of  the  general 
range  of  pickered  shoddy  prices  in  the  English  market.  They  are 
based  on  samples  retained  in  the  office  of  the  Tariff  Board.  These 
Enghsh  shoddies  are  not  as  thoroughly  pickered  and  carded  as  the 
American  shoddies  quoted  in  Table  34.  In  some  cases  they  are  Uttle 
mgre  than  unraveled  knit  stock  and  at  best  they  are  only  pickered,  bpt 
these  quotations  belong  under  this  section,  for  both  unraveled  and 
pickered  stock  are  dutiable  as  shoddy.  If  the  shoddies  presented  in 
Table  35  were  as  thoroughly  garnetted  and  carded  as  the  American 
shoddies  quoted  in  Table  34,  the  prices  would  be  several  cents  higher. 

Table  35. — Quotations  in  England  for  certain  representative  piclered  shoddies. 


Coarse  mixed  stocking  shoddy 

Red-gray  serge  shoddy,  pulled,  cleaned  (from  cotton,  but  not  quite 

free) 

Gray  serge  shoddy,  pulled,  carbonized  (free  from  cotton) 

Steel  serge  shoddy,  pulled,  cleaned  (from  cotton,  but  not  quite  free) 

Mixed  stocking  shoddy 

Red-gray  merino  shoddy,  cleaned,  pulled  (from  cotton,  but  not  free) 
Light  gray  worsted  shoddy,  pulled,  cleaned  (from  cotton,  but  not 

quite  free) 

Best  black  stocking  shoddy 

Red-gray  merino  shoddy,  pulled,  carbonized  (free  from  cotton) 

Light  red-gray  merino  shoddy,  pulled,  cleaned  (from  shoddy,  but 

not  quite  free) 

Medium  mixed  stocking  shodd v 

Light  gray  worsted  shoddy,  pulled,  carbonized  (free  from  cotton) 

Fine  mixed  "  Berlins  "  shoddy 

Blue-gray  merino  shoddy,  pulled,  cleaned  (from  cotton,  but  not 

quite  free) , 

Superfine  mixed  "  Berlins  "  shoddy 

Gray  worsted  shoddy,  pulled,  cleaned  (from  cotton,  but  not  quite 

free) 


1909 

1910 

Cents  per 
pound. 
6.6 

Cents  per 
pound. 
7.6 

7.6 

7. 6-  8. 1 

8.1 

9.6- 

10.1 

7.1 
7. 1-  7. 6 

7.6 
10.1 
10.1 

11.2 
11.2 

11.7 

11.2 
11.7 

11.7 

13.2 
11.7 
13.2 
13.7 

12.7-13.2 
12.2 
13.2 
13.7 

14.2-14.7 
15.7 

13.7-14.2 
15.7 

17.2 

17.2 

1911 


Cents  per 
pound. 
7.6 

7.1 
7.1 

7*6 
10.1 
10.1 

11.2 
11.7 
11.7 

11.7-12.2 
12.2 
1X2 
13.7 

12.7-13.2 
15.7 

17.2 


Rate  of  duty  on  shoddy  and  wool  extract. — Paragraph  373  fixes  the 
duty  on  shoddy  at  25  cents  per  pound  and  on  wool  extract  at  20  cents 
per  pound.  A  glance  at  the  prices  of  foreign  shoddies  given  above 
shows  the  restrictive  character  of  these  duties.  A  shoddy  valued  as 
high  as  25  cents  abroad  would  pay  100  per  cent  dutv  if  imported. 
Most  shoddies  sell  for  a  much  lower  price  tnan  this,  and.  under  the  flat 
specific  duty  the  lower  the  price  abroad  the  higher  the  computed  ad 
valorem  rate.  A  shoddy  valued  at  12^  cents  per  pound  abroad  would 
pay  a  duty  of  200  per  cent  of  its  value  if  imported;  one  valued  at  8 J 
cents  per  pound  abroad  would  pay  a  duty  of  300  per  cent  of  its  value 
if  imported. 

Imports  of  shoddy. — Consequently  the  imports  of  shoddy  into  the 
United  States  are  negligible.  No  shoddies  were  imported  during  the 
fiscal  year  of  1911.  In  1910,  30  pounds  of  shoddy  (probably  sam- 
ples) were  imported  and  paid  a  computed  ad  valorem  rate  of  375  per 
cent.  Under  the  act  of  1894  the  rate  of  duty  on  shoddy  was  15  per 
cent.  •  In  1896  the  importation  was  139,931  pounds,  valued  at  $12,873. 

Exports  of  shoddy. — The  exports  of  shodcly  from  the  United  States 
are  not  reported  separately  by  the  Bureau  of  Statistics.     They  were 


72 


IlEPOKT  OF   TABIFP  BOABD  ON   SCHEDXILE  K, 


REPOET  OF   TARIFF   BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


73 


*[i 


small  prior  to  1907,  but  since  then  have  been  increasing.  The  chief 
country  of  destination  for  these  exporta  is  the  United  Kingdom.  The 
imports  of  shoddy  into  the  United  Kingdom  from  the  United  States, 
presented  in  Table  36,  while  not  showing  the  total  exports  from  the 
United  States,  give  a  good  idea  of  how  the  exports  have  increased. 

Table  SQ.— Imports  ofakoddy  into  the  United  Kingdom  from  the  United  States,  1906-1910, 


Ymit. 


1906.. 

1907.. 
1908.. 
1909.. 
1910.. 


Quantity. 


Pound*. 

11,200 

292,506 

424,363 

1,185,282 

1,999,771 


Value. 


$545 

8,38S 

16,843 

75,134 

133,717 


Production  of  shoddy  in  the  United  States.— In  1909  there  were  88 
establishments  reported  in  the  shoddy  industry  of  the  United  States. 
These  had  a  capital  of  $6,877,959,  employed  2,041  wage  earners,  and 

Sroduced  products  valued  at  $7,446,364.  Tlie  industry  has  made  no 
ecided  growth  during  the  last  decade.  Tlie  number  of  estabUsh- 
ments  declined  and  the  value  of  products  increased  only  10.6  per 
cent  between  1899  and  1909.  In  1904  the  industry  showed  products 
of  greater  value  than  in  1909.  The  stationary  nature  of  the  mdustry 
is  largely  due  to  the  popularity  of  woi-steds,  into  the  making  of  which 
shoddy  does  not  enter.  Tlie  cliief  States  for  the  production  of 
shoddy  are  Massachusetts,  Ohio,  and  Pennsylvania.  The  largest  mills 
are  located  at  Cleveland,  Ohio.  Tlie  mills  of  the  United  States  used 
in  1909,  64,561,713  poimds  of  rags  and  tailor  clippings,  and  produced 
48,375,724  pounds  of  shoddy,  valued  at  $5,699,260.^  In  addition  to 
the  shoddy  made  in  shoddy  mills  the  carded-woolen  mills  in  1909 
made  31,021,323  pounds  of  shoddy  for  their  own  use.  It  appears 
from  this  that  shoddy,  or,  more  properly,  reclaimed  wool,  is  a  very 
important  material  in  cloth  production  in  the  United  States. 

Production  of  shoddy  in  Enahnd.— The  greatest  shoddy-producing 
<;enter  in  the  world  is  in  and  near  Batley  and  Dewsbury,  England. 
Of  the  900  rag-grinding  machines  in  the  United  Kingdom,  Yorkshire, 
in  wliich  Batley  and  Dewsbury  are  located,  has  881  macliines.  In  the 
whole  of  the  Lnited  States  there  are  only  346  rag-grinding  machines. 
In  1907  the  United  Kingdom  is  reported  to  have  produced  137,056,000 
pounds  of  shoddy,  valued  at  $8,749,967.  The  English  of  the  district 
of  Yorkshire  are  very  skillful  in  the  production  of  cloths  from  shoddy 
and  other  waste  products.  The  fabrics  produced  are  both  cheap  and 
substantial. 

Sh4>ddy  in  commerce. — ^Belgium  and  France  do  not  enumerate 
shoddy  separately  in  their  imports  and  exports.  The  commerce  in 
shoddy  for  other  leading  wool-manufacturing  countries  is  presented 
in  Table  37.  British  exports  are  sent  chiefly  to  Germany,  Portugal, 
Sweden,  and  Russia;  German  exports  chiefly  to  Austria-Hungary. 

1  For  furttker  details  of  sboddy  mdustry  in  the  United  Slates,  see  p.  214. 


Table  37. — Imports  and  exports  of  shoddy  and  mungo  for  leading  countries  in  1909 

and  1910. 


1909 

1910 

Countries. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Imports. 

ExxKjrts. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

TJnited  States ' 

Pounds. 

Pounds. 

Pounds. 
30 
6,837,114 
6.926,192 
3,985,035 

$2 
473,413 
673,064 
433,904 

Pounds. 

United  Kingdom 

Germany. 

4,512,128 
6,860,715 
3,655,668 

9323,596 
629,510 
373,471 

8,245,900 

10,378,816 

5,063,525 

$1,197,174 
1,019,592 

528,845 

11,956,600 

11,207,745 

4,966,964 

$1,701,912 
1,279,488 

AustriSrHungary 

513,385 

>  For  comments  on  the  exports  from  the  United  States,  see  p.  71. 

NOILS. 

Noils  defined. — ^The  process  of  combing  leaves  the  combed  wool  free 
from  all  vegetable  matter,  dirt,  or  other  foreign  substance  which  may 
have  adhered  to  the  wool  up  to  that  point  in  the  manufacturing 
processes.  Combing  also  removes  the  short  and  immature  fibers 
from  the  wool  and  the  fibers  left  in  the  top  are  more  or  less  parallel. 
The  short,  tangled  fibers  separated  from  the  combed  sliver  in  the 
combing  process  are  the  noil.  In  order  to  spin  a  uniform  worsted 
yarn  the  noil  must  be  removed,  but,  while  the  noil  is  waste  from 
combing,  it  is  by  no  means  a  valueless  product.  It  is  used  extensively 
in  making  carded  woolen  yarns  and  is  a  very  important  raw  material. 
(See  Illustration  3.) 

Carbonized  noils. — As  has  been  said,  the  noil  contains  a  varying 
amount  of  vegetable  material  in  the  form  of  bits  of  straw,  burs,  etc., 
which  are  removed  from  the  wool  by  the  comb.  In  order  to  make 
the  noils  more  marketable,  firms  which  deal  extensively  in  them  have 
them  carbonized,  a  process  which  reduces  the  vegetable  matter  in  the 
noil  to  carbon  by  subjecting  them  to  the  action  of  sulphuric  acid  or 
aluminum  chloride.  The  wool  fiber  is  left  more  or  less  unharmed 
and  the  absence  of  foreign  matter  improves  the  spinning  quahties  of 
the  noil.  Naturally,  the  carbonizing  of  noils  increases  their  value 
per  pound.     (See  Illustration  3.) 

Noils  from  reconohing. — For  making  the  best  worsted  yams,  i.  e., 
those  of  the  highest  counts,  some  spinners  recomb  the  top.  The  per 
cent  of  noil  in  the  second  is  much  less  than  in  the  first  combing,  but 
the  noil  is  cleaner  and  more  valuable.  Both  carbonized  and  second 
combing  noils  pay  the  same  rate  of  duty  when  imported  as  ordinary 
noils  do. 

Classification  cf  noils  in  the  United  States. — Noils  are  an  important 
article  of  commerce.  They  are  a  by-product  of  the  worsted  industry 
and  a  raw  material  of  the  woolen  and  Knitting  industries.  Firms  give 
their  whole  attention  to  buying  them  from  the  former,  grading  and 
carbonizing  them,  and  selling  them  to  the  latter.  They  are  classified 
according  to  the  qualitv  of  wool  from  which  they  were  combed,  as 
fine  domestic  noils,  half  blood  domestic  noils,  three-eighths  blood 
domestic  noils,  quarter  blood  domestic  noils,  coarse  domestic  noils. 
Tliis  same  general  classification  is  used  for  noils  from  Australian 
and  South  American  wools.  There  are  no  hard  and  fast  lines  between 
the  different  classifications  and  for  tliis  reason  a  noil  classified  by  one 
firm  as  low  quarter  blood  would  be  classified  as  coarse  by  another,  etc. 


74 


BEPORT  OP  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


REPORT  OF   TARIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


75 


imii 


Hence,  prices  vary  widely.  Tlie  quotations  nresented  in  Table 
38  are  representative  and  are  based  on  actual  sales  of  noils  made  in 
Philadelpnia  in  1910. 

Table  38. — Pricm  ofnmk  in  Philadelphia^  Fa.,  for  1910. 

(From  trade  sources.] 


Fine  domestic 

Half  blood  domestic 

Threenndiths  blood  doniestir . . 

Quarter  blood  domestic 

Coarse  domestic 

Fine  Australian 

Half  blood  Australian 

ThmM^ichths  blood  Australian 

Quarter  blood  Australian 

OBarse  AustraiiiMi 


Highest. 


Lowest. 


Cents  per 

Cents  per 

pouTtd. 

pound. 

50 

40 

45 

35 

40 

30 

35 

25 

25 

18 

G3 

57 

58 

52 

45 

43 

40 

35 

35 

32 

Classification  of  noils  in  United  Kingdom.— Tops  in  England  are 
designated  by  the  count  of  yarn  to  which  they  are  supposed  to  spin, 
e.  g.,  603  top,  70s  top,  etc.  Noils  are  classified  on  the  basis  of  the 
quality  of  top  from  which  they  are  combed.  A  50s  noil,  therefore, 
is  a  noil  combed  from  a  top  of  50s  quaUty,  and  so  with  all  the 
quahties  designated  in  Table  39.  It  may  be  said,  parenthetically, 
tnat  64s  to  70s  in  England  are  approxmiately  eq^uivalent  to  tfae 
fine  in  the  United  States  for  wool  of  the  same  origin,  58s  to  60s 
to  half  blood,  52s  to  56s  to  three-eighths  blood,  50s  to  high  quarter 
blood,  42s  to  46s  to  low  quarter  and  quarter  blood,  36s  to  40s 
to  coarse.  Tliese  equivalents  are  only  approximately  correct. 
The  opinion  of  men  m  tlie  trade  varies  widely  as  to  just  what  quaUty  a 
term  describes^  and,  for  this  reason,  any  comparison  must  be  taken 
with  quahfication. 

Quotations  for  noils  in  England,-~QuotfLilons  for  representative 
qualities  of  noils  in  England  are  presented  in  Table  39.  Thej  were 
obtained  by  the  American  consul  at  Bradford  from  leading  LngUsh 
trade  authorities. 


Table  39. — Quotations  f 

yr  Twils  in 

England. 

Quality. 

First 

quarter. 

Second 

quarter. 

Third 
quarter. 

Fourth 

quarter. 

M^  and  4^ 

1909. 

Cts.  per  lb. 
15.2 
16.2 
20.3 
24.3 
27.4 

16.2 
17.2 
19.3 
23.3 
28.4 

17.7 
19.3 
21.3 
24.3 
26.4 

Cts.  per  lb. 
16.2 
17.2 
20.3 
24.3 
29.4 

17.2 
18.3 

20.3 
24.3 
28.4 

18.3 
19.3 

22.3 
24.3 
26.4 

Cts.  per  lb. 
16.2 
17.2 
20.3 
24.3 
30.4 

17.2 
18.3 
20.3 
24.3 
27-4 

17.2 
18.3 
21.3 
23.3 

25.4 

Cts.  per  lb. 
15.7 

JiOs 

16.2 

ma      

19.3 

K«S 

23.3 

fim                           

27.4 

403  and  46s 

1910. 

17.7 

fiOa 

19.3 

SBs                              1 

21.3 

S8s 



24.3 

fiflS-           .                       1 

W.i 

JAS^  Alicl  4Ci3 

1911. 

17.2 

fSOB                                                        -    1 

18.3 

Mh.  . . 

■       ".. 

21.3 

figg                               

23.3 

ma 

25.4 

Another  authority  in  Bradford,  England,  reported  to  the  American 
consul  that  Botany  noils,  60s.  to  64s.  quality,  sold  in  1909  for  from 
27.9  to  31.9  cents;  in  1910,  from  30.4  to  32.4  cents;  and  in  1911,  from 
29.9  to  31.9  cents. 

Bate  of  duty  and  imports  of  noils. — ^The  rate  of  duty  on  noils  of  all 
qualities  fixed  by  paragraph  373  is  20  cents  per  pound.  This  flat 
specific  rate  acts  to  exclude  from  this  country  all  noils  except  a  small 
quantity  of  high-class  noils.  The  imports  of  noils  for  representative 
years  into  the  United  States  are  given  in  Table  40. 

Table  40. — Imports  of  noils  entered  for  consumption  into  the  United  States. 


Fiscal  year  ending  Juno  30— 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Tlevemie 
derived. 

Ad  valorem 
rate  of  duty 
(computed  J. 

18961 

Pounds. 

1,185,032 

144,306 

90,314 

122,227 

170,530 

$232,150 

50,413 

31.625 

76,253 

106,664 

'■^57.25 

1900 

$28,861 
18,063 
24,445 
34,106 

1905 

57.12 

1910 

32.06 

1911 

31.98 

»  Not  incliulinR  rarhonized  noils;  value,  $11,379;  duty,  15  jier  cent  ad  valorem;  revenue,  $1,707. 
•  Noils  free  of  duty  under  Wilson  bill. 

The  average  value  of  noils  imported  in  1910  and  1911  was  over 
60  cents  per  pound,  wliich  would  indicate  the  importation  of  only 
the  highest  quality  of  carbonized  noils.  The  lowest  average  value 
per  pound  of  noils  imported  under  the  acts  of  1897  and  1909  prior  to 
1910  was  26.6  cents  and  the  highest  41.9  cents.  Sixty  cents  for  1910 
and  1911  is  liigher  than  the  average  and  these  liigh  valuations  make 
the  computed  ad  valorem  rate  lower.  For  this  reason  the  computed 
ad  valorem  rate  of  32.06  per  cent  in  1910  and  31.9§  per  cent 
in  1911  is  not  representative  except  for  noils  of  maximum  value. 
Ordinary  noils,  as  shown  in  Table  39,  range  from  15  to  30  cents  in 
value  in  Bradford.  The  rate  on  noils  valued  at  20  cents,  if  imported, 
would  be  100  per  cent  of  their  value;  on  noils  valued  at  30  cents, 
66|  per  cent  of  their  value.  As  compared  with  the  quantity  of  noils 
offered  for  sale  in  the  United  States  (27,938,313  pounds  in  1909)  the 
importation  is  neghgible. 

Imports  of  noils  J  by  countries. — The  import  statistics  of  the  United 
States  by  countries  (Table  3  of  "Commerce  and  Navigation") 
classify  together  mungo,  shoddy,  wool  extract,  noils,  rags,  and  wastes. 
But  since  the  imports  of  all  these  materials  except  noi&  and  rags  are 
negligible  for  1900,  1905,  and  1909,  we  may  conclude  that  for  these 
yeai-s  the  figures  are  chiefly  noils  and  secondarily  rags.  The  imports 
for  1896,  when  wastes,  noils,  and  rags  were  free  of  duty,  include  all 
the  enumerated  materials.     These  imports  are  presented  in  Table  41. 


76 


BEPOET  OF  TARIFF   BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


Table  41. — Imports  ofmungo,  shoddy^  noils^  wool  extract,  rags  and  waste,  by  countries, 
entered  for  immediate  amsumption  or  for  tuarehotise,  into  the  United  States. 


18% 


Country  of  origin. 


■t 


Quantity.)    Value. 


Belgium 

France. 

Germany 

Itaiy 

Netherlands 

United  Kingdom. 

'Cuiada 

Otlier  countries.. 


Pounds. 

&18,386 

5,440,333 

2,975,2&4 

93,626 

86.396 

8,936,494 

£90,528 


Doiiars. 

95,088 

824,063 

516,446 

7,602 

4,324 

1,177,847 

25,837 


1900 


Quantity. 


Pounds. 

11,965 

112,263 

112,288 


182,560 
16,798 


Value. 


Dollars. 

4,780 

14,485 

6,276 


61,173 
173 


1905 


Quantity. 


Pounds. 
3,621 

200 


136,477 
13,304 
39,537 


Value. 


DdUirs. 

1,280 

29,453 

51 


47,284 
1.273 
7,637 


19091 


Quantity. 


Pounds. 
12,258 
56,031 
3,678 


379,638 

44,615 

53 


Value. 


Dollars. 

4,937 

22,680 

1,215 


112,262 

1,524 

7 


I  Included  in  "All  other  manufactures  of"  after  1909. 

Production  of  noils  in  the  United  States. — Noils  produced  by  the 
worsted  industry  in  the  United  States  are  presentea  in  Table  42. 

Table  42. — Production  of  noils  in  the  worsted  industry  of  the  United  States. 


Quantity poimds. . 

Value 


1909 

1899 

2<,  144.282 

$8,868,337 

12.032.814 
S3,33G,2ol 

Ter  cent 

of 
increase. 


125.21 
165.89 


The  increase  in  the  production  of  noils  during  the  decade  of  125.21 
per  cent  in  quantity  and  165.89  per  cent  in  value  is  one  of  the 
many  evidences  of  the  expansion  of  the  worsted  industrv.  There 
being  no  export  of  noils,  this  quantity  was  all  used  in  the  United 
States,  chiefly  by  the  carded  woolen  and  hosiery  industry  in  making 
woolen  yam. 

K  Table  42  does  not  include  the  comparatively  small  amount  of  noils 
reported  among  the  products  of  the  woolen  and  carpet  industries. 
In  1899  the  woolen  industrj  reported  124,029  pounds  of  noils,  valued 
at  $18,936,  and  the  carpet  mdustry  reported  674,188  pounds  of  noils, 
valued  at  $120,131.  In  1909  the  woolen  industry  reported  335,011 
pounds  of  noOs,  valued  at  $70,352,  and  the  carpet  industry  reported 
459,020  pounds,  valued  at  $96,830. 

Noils  produced  in  England. — The  statistics  for  noils  produced  in 
the  United  Kingdom  as  reported  in  the  census  of  1907  are  admitted 
so  incomplete  that  they  may  be  disregarded.  It  may  be  asaumed, 
however,  that  if  1,925  combs  in  the  worsted  industry  of  the  United 
States  produced  27,144,282  pounds  of  noils  in  1909,  the  3,000  combs 
of  the  United  Kingdom  produced  considerably  more. 

Commerce  for  leadina  countries  in  noils. — "The  import  and  export 
figures  of  noils  for  leading  foreign  countries  are  more  or  less  incom- 
plete, but  such  as  they  are,  they  are  presented  in  Table  43.  The 
United  Kingdom's  chief  markets  for  noils  are  Russia  and  Germany. 
Austria-Hungary  is  Germany's  chief  market  for  noils.  Unfortunately, 
noils  are  not  reported  separately  for  France. 


\ 


REPORT  OF   TARIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE   K.  77 

Table  43. — Imports  and  exports  of  noils  for  leading  countries  in  1909  and  1910. 


1909 

1910 

Countries. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

• 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

United  States 

Pounds. 
127,965 

*49,754 

PouTids. 

Pounds. 
122,227 

$76,253 

Pounds. 

United  Kingdom 

16,073,500 
9,265,493 

$4,829,646 
2,459,968 

17,232,700 
9,821,052 

$5,503,101 
2,750,804 

German  V 

6,090,741 

1,805,706 

6,201,981 

1,606,976 

France ' 

Austria-Hungary 

8,720,736 

2,441,727 

3,492,527 

778,845 

9,835,162 

2,526,026 

'3,'266,'383 

733.241 

1  Noils  are  included  in  waste  of  wool  (bourre  entifere).    See  Table  47. 
TARN    WASTES    AND    OTHER    WOOL    WASTES. 

Other  wastes  (f^^na?.— Paragraph  373  also  fixes  the  duty  on  ''yam 
waste,  thread  waste,  and  all  other  wastes  composed  wholly  or  in  part 
of  wool,  and  not  specially  provided  for  in  this  section."  The  chief 
wastes  provided  for  under  this  provision  are  the  hard  wastes  from  the 
worsted  spuming  room  known  as  yam  or  thread  waste.  They  are 
bits  of  yam  or  thread  which  are  broken  or  wasted  in  the  adjustment 
and  manipulation  of  the  spinning  frame.  By  the  comparatively  inex- 
pensive process  of  garnet  ting,  they  can  be  converted^  into  garnet  ted 
waste.  Among  the  other  wastes  dutiable  under  this  paragraph  are 
the  waste  from  the  cardmg  process;  burr  waste,  i.  e..  burrs  with 
particles  of  wool  clinging  thereto  knocked  out  of  the  wool  by  the  burr 
rollers  on  a  card  or  on  a  machine  made  specifically  for  that  purpose* 
cotton  waste  mixed  with  wool  (T.  D.  13217-21409);  waste  from' 
waterproof  garments  (T.  D.  15550);  and  wool  waste  and  raffs  mixed 
(T.  D.  12986).  ^ 

Quotations  for  thread  wa^te  in  England.— The  most  important  waste 
dutiable  under  paragraph  373  is  thread  or  spinning  room  waste. 
Uuotations  m  England  for  various  qualities  of  tliis  waste  are  given  in 
1  able  44.  Thejr  were  obtained  by  the  American  consul  at  Bradford 
from  leadmg  English  trade  authorities.  These  quotations  are  for 
1911  and  are  sHghtly  liigher  than  they  were  in  1909  and  1910. 

Table  44.— Quotations  for  worsted-thread  waste  in  England,  1911. 


Worsti'd 
Worsted 
Worsted 
Worsted 
Worsted 
Worsted 


•thread  waste,  60's 
-thread  waste,  56's 
■thread  waste,  50's 
■thread  waste,  46's 
■thread  waste,  40's 
■thread  waste,  36's 


1911  (cents 
per  pound). 


36.5 
28.4 
24.3 
21.3 
20.3 
19.3 


itr^H^fL*^  ^^i'^'^^'^^''''^  of  y^astes.— The  duty  on  the  hard  wastes 
^«f ^f  ^''/ll'^  ''^^^''  '^''''^  "^^^^f^  ^^  20  cents  per  pound.  Gametted 
iTn^it  "^"^  ^®i°i^'*^  properly  classed  here  than  with  the  soft  wastes 
iTmornr^^P^^?^'/f  ^  difference  of  10  cents  per  pound  in  duty 
18  more  than  sufficient  to  cover  the  inexpensive  operation  by  which 


78 


BEPOBT  OP  TARIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDITI>E  K. 


the  hard  wastes  may  be  reduced  to  garaetted  waste.     The  imports  of 
hard  and  other  unspecified  wastes  are  shown  in  Table  45. 

Table  45. — Imports  of  yarn ^  tkrmd,  and  other  unspecijied  wa&tesfor  conmmption  into 

the  United  States. 


Finral  year  ending  June  .^0— 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Revenue 
derived.  • 

Ad  valorem 
rate  of  duty 
(computed). 

liOO 

Pounds. 

11,547 

111,559 

92,938 

37,850 

13.447 

40,998 
32,063 
13,010 

f2,309 
22.312 

18,588 
7,570 

67  00 

1905 , 

1910 

1911 , 

54.42 
57.97 

58  19 

For  the  last  two  jea.m  the  average  %'alue  of  these  wastes  imported 
has  been  a  little  over  34  cents  per  pound,  which  would  indicate  waste 
of  good  quality.  Tlie  duty  of  20  cents  per  pound  practically  excludes 
the  lower  grades  of  wastes.  F-  F"        F  J 

Production  of  wastes  in  the  United  States, — The  soft  wastes,  as  has 
been  said,  are  reused  in  the  worsted  mills  where  they  are  produced. 
The  chief  wastes  bought  and  sold  in  the  United  States  are  garnet  ted, 
thread,  yarn,  knitting,  and  the  low  wastes.  The  production  of  wool 
waste  for  sale  in  the  United  States  in  1899  and  1909  is  presented  in 
Table  46. 

Table  46. — Wool  waste  produced  for  sale  in  the  United  States. 


Industry. 

1909 

1899 

Per  cent  of  increase. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Worsted 

Pounds. 

3,742,847 

1,620.675 

258,853 

11,324 

f3,3.\3.18S 

191,727 

67,334 

13,411 

1,489 

Pounds. 

7,184.821 

978,473 

330,351 

18,260 

tl,lfi2.610 

67,059 

21,133 

7,968 

182.  75 
382.52 
490.50 
141  7fi 

186.70 

28.*)  91 

Woolen 

Carpet  and  rugs 

318.63 
ifio  no 

Felt  goods 

Woof  felt  hats 



As  table  46  shows,  the  wastes  reported  by  the  worsted  industry  are 
by  far  the  largest  per  centum  of  the  production  in  the  United  States. 
Tiie  production  of  worsted  wastes  increased  during  the  decade  182.75 
per  cent  in  quantity  and  186.70  per  cent  in  vatue.  The  rates  of 
mcrease  for  the  woolen  and  carpet  industries  are  larger  than  for 
the  worsted  industry,  but  the  quantities  are  comparatively  small. 

Commerce  of  leading  countries  in  wastes. — ^Table  47  presents  the 
imports  and  exports  of  wool  wastes  for  the  leading  countries.  It 
should  be  noted  before  studying  this  table  that  the  term  wool  waste 
has  various  meanings  in  the  statistical  publications  of  foreign  coun- 
tries; it  should  alsobe  noted  that  the  qualitj  of  wastes  entering  into 
the  commerce  of  different  countries  varies  widely.  With  these  quali- 
fications, however,  the  table  gives  some  valuable  information.  It 
shows  how  extensively  wastes  of  wool  enter  into  the  commerce  of 
the  world  and  how  isolated  the  United  States  is  in  the  commerce. 


I 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K, 


79 


Table  47. — Imports  and  exports  of  wool  waste  for  leading  countries  in  1909  and  1910. 


CotUitry. 


1909 


Imports. 


Exports. 


1910 


Imports. 


Quantity, 


Value. 


United  States 

United  Kingdom... 

Germany 

France  * 

Austria-Hungary — 
Italy 


Pounds 

89,855 

3,687,181 

16,2f]t>,2(» 

25,656,473 

8,508,874 

7,355,648 


135,813 
48.3, 253 
2,633,946 
6,513,621 
1,096,898 
2,035,479 


Quantity. 


Pounds. 


49,336,523 
3,247,817 
1,380,741 


Value. 


12,521, 7aS 
2,523,752 
9,156,551 
438,983 
285,970 


Quantity. 


Pounds. 
92,938 

3,968,1.37 
17,032,078 
29,845,434 
10,491,912 

7,645,994 


Value. 


$32,063 

572,344 

2,758,182 


Exports. 


Quantity. 


Pounds. 


11,907,100 
19,504,978 


7,577,18058,665,067 


1,352,536 
2,141,092 


3,451,742 
1,682,110 


Value. 


$3,223,916 
2,999,990 
10,887,902 
444,972 
360,785 


1  Includes  noils,  except  a  very  small  quantity  of  dyed  noils. 
Paragraph  374.— WOOLEN  RAGS,  MXJNGO,  AND  FLOCKS. 
Woolen  rags,  mungo,  and  flocks,  ten  cents  per  pound. 

WOOLEN  BAGS. 

Baas  defined. — Rags,  both  old  and  new,  are  the  chief  raw  material  of 
the  shoddy  industry.  Old  rags  consist  of  worn  men's  and  women's 
garments,  such  as  suitings,  coatings,  sweaters,  stockings,  dress  goods, 
and  the  like.  Their  variety  is  as  diverse  as  woven  goods.  New  rags, 
having  the  same  diversity  in  quality,  color,  and  composition,  are  the 
clippings  which  fall  from  the  cutting  tables  of  ready-made  suit  and 
cloalc  houses,  tailor  shoos,  and  wherever  cuttings  from  woolen 
fabrics  may  arise.     (See  illustration  2.) 

Collection  of  rags. — The  old-rag  business  begins  with  the  familiar 
country  peddler  or  city  pushcart  man  who  gathers  all  kinds  of  old 
junk,  among  which  there  is  a  relatively  small  per  cent  of  woolen 
rags.  At  tne  end  of  his  day's  work,  the  peddler  disposes  of  his 
heterogeneous  collection  to  the  small  dealer  m  the  town  or  city. 
The  rags,  as  purchased  by  liim,  are  both  cotton  and  wool.  He  first 
separates  the  cotton  from  the  wool.  The  former  he  sells  to  the  paper 
mills  or  a  lobber;  the  latter  he  sorts  into  three  grades:  (a)  Kough 
cloth,  (b)  skirted  cloth,  (c)  soft  woolens.  Rough  cloth  is  made  up  of 
street  rags  and  other  coarse  and  much-worn  woolens  wliich  are 
ground  up  and  used  in  making  felt  paper  and  machine  waste. 
Skirted  cloth  is  the  hard-woven  fabrics,  chiefly  men's  suitings  and 
heavy  coats.  The  term  "skirted"  refers  to  the  tearing  out  of  the 
linings.  Soft  woolens  are  made  up  of  sweaters,  stockings,  hoods,  soft 
dress  goods  known  as  merinos,  and  hke  soft  and  loosely  woven  fabrics. 

Sorting  and  classifying  of  old  rags. — Skirted  cloth  and  soft  woolens 
are  sold  by  the  small  dealer  to  the  large  dealer,  who  finally  sorts  the 
rags  in  hundreds  of  sorts  according  to  the  demands  of  the  shoddy 
trade.  It  may  be  stated  parenthetically  that  the  organization  of 
rag  collection  is  not  as  uniform  as  indicated  by  this  short  review. 
Sometimes  the  small  dealer  sorts  his  rags  into  the  sorts  demanded  by 

%  f}^^^^y  trade.  Often,  also,  the  jobbers  intervene  between  the 
peddler  and  small  dealer  and  between  the  small  and  large  dealers.  As 
\^  'i  ^l^w®^®r>  t^e  rags  reach  the  large  dealer  in  the  form  of  old 
skirted  cloth  and  soft  woolens.  These  rags,  generally  very  dusty,  are 
sorted,  as  a  rule  by  women  poorly  paid,  into  the  numerous  sorts 
dependmg  upon  quahty,  structure,  composition,  and  color  of  the  rags. 


80 


iffiPOET  OF  TAKIFF  BOABD  OW  SCHEDULE  K. 


Without  trying  to  enumerate  exhaustively  the  many  sorts  made  by 
the  large  deajers,  the  following  will  indicate  their  nature: 

Sorts  from  old  skirted  cloths.— -Baik  skirted  cloth,  light  skirted  cloth,  blue  skirted 
cloth,  black  skirted  doth,  dark  skirted  worsteds,  blue  skirted  worsteds,  black  skirted 
worsteds,  light  skirted  worsteds,  blue  skirted  serge. 

Sorts  from  old  soft  woolens.— White  knit,  old  red  flannels,  white  stockings,  white 
hood  stock,  fine  dark  merinos,  fine  light  merinos,  fine  black  merinoe,  red  kmt,  brown 
knit,  light  gray  knit.  .  „ 

On  page  70  of  this  report  the  names  of  representative  sorts  of  rags 
are  given  in  connection  with  the  discussion  of  shoddy  and,  studied  in 
connection  with  the  sorts  enumerated  above,  give  some  idea  of  the 
varied  classification  of  woolen  rags.  The  prices  of  sorts  of  old  rags 
vary  all  the  way  up  from  ^' small  merinos,"  at  2  or  3  cents  per  pound, 
to  *' white  flannels^'  or  "white  knit,"  at  20  or  more  cents  per  pound. 

New  clip  business.— The  business  of  dealing  in  new  rags  is  also  very 
important.  These  rags  are  collected  from  the  small  tailor  establish- 
ments or  sweatshops  and  sold  as  ''mixed  new  chps"  to  the  large 
dealer.  The  dealer  also  buys  the  cuttings  from  the  large  ready-made 
clothing  establishments,  where  a  great  many  cMppings  are  wasted  in 
cutting  garments.  New  rags  are  smaller  than  old  rags,  and  therefore 
the  sorting  of  them  is  slower.  The  grades  of  them  are  made  on  the 
same  principle  as  the  grades  of  oldf  rags.  The  following  are  rep- 
resentative: 

Fine  light  worsteds,  clothing  clips;  blue  light  worsteds,  clothing  clips;  fine  lig^t 
cloth;  blue  cloth;  fine  unions;  white  worsted,  cloaking  clips;  dark  serges,  cloaking 
clips;  mixed  French  flannels. 

Rag  quotations  in  the  United  States^  1 904-1 91 L— Table  48  presents 
price  quotations  for  old  and  new  rags  in  the  United  States  for  each 
year  since  1904.  It  shows  a  general  lower  level  of  prices  on  almost 
all  grades  of  rags  since  1907,  when  exportation  of  rags  began  to  be 
important  (see  Table  52),  than  on  similar  grades  prior  to  that  time. 

Table  4^.— Price  quotations  in  cents  per  pound  on  old  skirted  cloth,  soft  woolen  ragt, 
and  new  tailor  clips  in  the  United  States,  January,  1904,  to  December  7,  1911. 

[From  the  American  Wool  and  Cotton  Reporter.] 


Old  stock: 

Skirted  cloth,  mixed 

Light  skirted  cloth 

Fine  light  skirted  cloth 

Blue  skirted  cloth 

Brown  skirted  cloth 

Black  skirted  cloth 

Dark  skirted  cloth 

Black  skirted  worsted 

Blue  skirted  worsted 

Dark  skirted  worsted 

Soft  woolen  No.  1 

Soft  old  red  flannels 

Soft  old  blue  flannels 

Soft  old  white  flannels 

N«w  stock: 

Mixed  French  flannels 

Fine  merchant  tailors,   all 
cjolors 

New  brown  cheviots 

New  scarlet  flannels 

New  black  flannels 

Light  cadet  clips 

Amiy  blue  clips,  pure  indigo. 


1904 


> 
5 


21 
7 

05 
7 

8i 

6 
18 


7 

llj 
19 
14 
14 
20 


6 

61 

6 


9 

6^ 

7 

lOJ 
11 

8 
20 


10 
12 
20 
15 
15 
23 


1905 


> 

s 


a*. 

P 

4 
4 


4 

8 

5 

6 

81 
10 

7 
18 


S 

lU 
19 
14 
14 
20 


si 

JSf 


Cts. 
6 

«i 
6 
5 
4J 


5 
11 

20 


11 
12 
20 
15 
15 
23 


1906 


> 
5 


6 
5 

5 

? 


9 

10 
8 

9 
12 

18 


9 

111 

19 

14 

14 
20 


s 


Cts. 
6 

^ 

7 


11 
9 

10 

13 
10 
20 


12 
12 
20 
16 
15 
23 


1907 


^ 
3 


Cts. 
4 
4 

7 
4 
4 

^ 
3 

i» 

7 

8 
12 

8 
18 


11 

llj 

19 

14 

14 

20 


i 


12 
12 
20 

16 
15 
23 


1908 


10 

Hi 

13 

10 

14 
20 


as 

^ 

5 

"k 
3 
9 

8 

8f 

8 
12| 

9 
20 


12 
12 
20 
15 
15 
23 


1909 


> 
2 


Cts 
3J 
4 
7 
3 
4 

?! 

t\ 

5 

9^ 

6 


7 

Hi 
5 

8 

13i 
14 


as. 

^ 

84 
4| 

4i 

4 

3 

7 

6i 
6 
f)| 
12 

n 

lOi 


Hi 

12 

15 
12 
18i 
22 


1910 


^ 

3 


as. 

2} 

3 

6 
2J 
2 
2 

^ 

4 
3 
4 

4 

15 


7 

Hi 
5 

6 
16 
16 


tc 


as 

4i 

5 

84 

i 

6 
5 

.?! 

7 
16i 


8i 
12 
18 
10 
18i 
18 


1911 


^ 
2 


as. 

3 
5 

i' 

2 
1{ 

4i 
3i 

2i 
4* 

71 
4 
15 

101 

5 

Hi 
17 

6 
16 
16 


12 

8 
12 
18 

iii 

IS 


if 

I 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


81 


Ouotaffwns  for  American  rags  %n  England.—TnoT  to  1907  the 
American  rag  busmess  found  a  market  for  its  rags  m  the  Umted 
States  and  3ie  prices  were  maintained  above  foreign  pnces  by  the 
high  tariff  rate.  Begmning  with  1907  and  increasing  rapidly  for 
ev^  year  since,  there  has  been  an  exportation  of  domestic  rags,  due 
to  tlie  lack  of  demand  for  them  in  this  country.  This  condition,  hrst, 
brought  American  prices  to  the  competitive  level  of  foreign  rags  and, 
seco^,  within  the  last  two  years  (1910  and  1911)  when  the  imports 
of  woolen  rags  into  the  United  Kingdom  from  the  Umted  States  were 
greater  than  from  any  other  country,  it  has  caused  the  foreign  prices 
to  dechne.  Present  quotations,  therefore,  represent  a  very  ]bw  price 
condition.  Quotations  for  American  rags  sold  m  Dewsbury,  England, 
in  1911  are  presented  in  Table  49.  They  were  obtained  by  the 
American  consul  at  Bradford  from  leading  rag  auction  hrms  m 
Dewsbury. 

Table  49.— Quotations  in  Dewsbury,  England,  for  specified  American  rags  in  1911. 


New  mixed  linseys. . . 
Dark  sknted  cloth . . . 

Unskirted  cloth 

New  Union  clips 

Black  skirted  cloth. . 
Blue  skirted  cloth — 
Brown  skirted  cloth. 
Light  skirted  cloth. . . 
Dark  skiried  worsted 
Mixed  skirted  cloth. . 
Black  serge 


1911 


Otwi 


per  lb. 

1.3-1.7 

1.7-1.8 

1.7-1.8 

1.8-2.4 

2.4-2.5 

2.4-2.5 

2.5 

2.7 

2.9 

3.0 

4.2 


Blue  skirted  yp-orsted 

j<  ine  dark  merinos 

Light  skirted  worsted 

Soft  woolens  (sweaters,  flannels,  etc.) 

Black  skirted  worsteds 

New  fine  dark  clips 

New  tailor  clips 

Tan  cloth 

Brown  stockings  and  knits 

New  black  flannels 

Billiard  cloth,  green 


1911 


Cts.  perJb. 

4.3-4.5 
4.6 

5.0-5.2 
5.2 

6.0-5.4 
5.9 

5.9-7.2 

6.a-6.7 
6.5 
6.5 
8.3 


Quotations  for  other  rags  in  England.— Bewshuryy  England,  is  the 
most  important  rag  market  in  the  world.  Kags  are  brought  there 
from  many  countries  and  sold  at  auction  as  raw  wool  is  sold  on  the 
colonial  sales  in  London.  In  general,  it  may  be  said  that  the  rag 
business  is  as  highly  systematized  as  any  connected  with  textile  raw 
materials,  and  great  skill  is  displayed  in  handhng  and  judging  them. 
In  Dewsbury  they  are  classified  according  to  the  country  of  ongm 
and  according  to  whether  they  are  mungo  rags  (i.  e.,  hard-woven 
goods)  or  soft  rags  (i.  e.,  kmtted  and  fight  dress  goods).  From 
among  the  many  rag  quotations  on  the  auction  circular  of  one  of  the 
leading  firms  in  Dewsbury  the  following  -are  chosen.  Kags  are 
quoted  in  shillings  and  pence  per  hundredweight  (112  pounds),  but 
the  quotations  given  in  Table  50  are  expressed  in  cents  and  decunals 
per  pound. 

32080"— H.  Doc.  342, 62-2,  vol  1 6 


82 


EEPOKT  OF  TAEIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 
Tablb  W. — QuotaHomfor  rags  in  Dewahwry^  England. 


Ifnngo  rags: 

Scotch  linsoys 

French  now  dark  cheviots 

Norwegian  new  mixed 

Scotch  Dlack  and  blue  worsted 

DanHi  new  blue  cheviots 

Scotch  best  stockings  and  comforters. . . 

French  new  steel  cheviots 

Scotch  new  fancy  worsted. 

French  new  black  worsted 

French  new  liancy  worsted,  large  pleoos 
Soft  rags: 

Scotch  lii^t  Angola 

Scotch  carpets -  - 

Scotch  si^-cond  stockings 

French  light  blue  molliton 

Danish  dark  gray  stockings 

Belgian  best  bhick  stockings 

Sco^h  first  stockings 

Dutch  first  black  stockings,  long  legs. . . 

Scotch  white  knitted 


1910 


1911 


CtM.perlb. 

CU.perlb. 

1.0 

1.0 

3.0 

4.1 

6.1 

5.8 

7.8 

6.5 

8.7 

6.1 

8.7 

8.0 

0.6 

9.3 

-     12.4 

12.4 

13.0 

10.9 

14.6 

14.3 

1.4 

1.6 

1.7 

1.8 

6.5 

5.3 

6.5 

5.9 

7.1 

7.8 

10.0 

KkS 

10.4 

9.8 

10.5 

10.3 

16.7 

15.2 

Eaie  of  duty  and  imports  of  rugs. — The  rate  of  duty  fixed  by  para- 
graph 374  on  woolen  rags,  both  new  and  old,  is  10  cents  per  pound. 
Since  the  price  of  only  the  best  rags  abroad  is  over  10  cents  per  pound, 
while  the  poorer  grades  often  sell  as  low  as  2  and  3  cents  per  pound, 
the  duty  acts  to  prevent  the  im|>ortation  of  all  except  tne  highest 
grades.  The  few  rags  which  were  imported  into  the  United  States  for 
the  indicated  years  are  shown  in  Table  51 . 

Table  51. — Imports  of  rags  amd  flocks  entered  for  consumption  into  the  United  States, 


Quantity. 


Fiscal  year  ending  June  30— 

18961 

1900 

1905 

1910 

1911 


Pounds. 

11,116,402 

155,802 

68,141 

362,525 

241,800 


Value. 


1643,945 
20,181 
12,734 
95,191 
68,263 


Bevenue 
derived. 


U5,580 

6,814 

36,252 

24,180 


Ad  valorem 
rate  of  duty 
(computed). 


(«) 


77.20 
53.51 
38.08 
35.43 


I  Ri^s  only.    "Mungo  and  flocks"  not  included;  value,  13,211;  duty,  15  per  cent  ad  valorem;  revenue^ 
Si82. 
>  Rags  were  flree  of  duty  under  the  Wilson  bill. 

These  figures  show  the  average  price  of  the  rags  imported  from 
abroad  in  1910  to  be  26  cents  per  pound  and  in  191 1  to  be  28  cents  per 
pound.  From  these  prices  it  must  be  inferred  that  only  the  finest 
rags  were  imported.  At  least,  any  rags  costing  26  to  28  cents  per 
pound  abroaa  would  be  a  very  superior  quality.  The  computed  ad 
valorem  rates  of  38.08  per  cent  in  1910  and  35.42  per  cent  in  1911 
represent  the  rates  therefore  on  the  very  best  grades  of  rags.  The 
rags  selling  in  Dewsbury  at  10  cents  per  pound  if  imported  would  pay 
a  duty  of  100  per  cent  of  their  value;  those  selling  at  5  cents  per  pound 
a  duty  of  200  per  cent  of  their  value;  and  the  cheaper  grades  would  of 
course  be  dutiable  at  a  still  higher  ad  valorem  rate. 

Exports  of  woolen  rags, — While  there  are  no  exports  for  rags  re- 
ported separately  in  Commerce  and  Navigation  of  the  United  States, 
It  is  a  well-known  fact  in  the  trade  that  a  large  and  increasing 
percentage  of  domestic  rags  are  being  exported.  The  exportation 
began  to  be  marked  in  1907  and  has  increased  steadily  ever  since. 


1 


BEPORT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


83 


The  United  Kingdom  being  the  chief  destination  of  these  rags,  the 
unports  into  the  United  Kingdom  from  the  United  States  give  some 
indication  of  the  growth  of  the  American  export  trade  in  rags.  They 
are  presented  in  Table  52.  There  was  also  some  export  of  rags  to 
other  countries  not  shown  in  this  table. 

Table  52. Woolen  rags  imported  into  the  United  Kingdom  from  the  United  States. 


Year. 


Quantity. 


1906.. 
1907.. 
1908.. 
1909.. 
1910.. 
1911.. 


Pounds. 

528,640 

4,519,040 

8,075,200 

19,745,600 

37,602,880 

137,105,600 


Value. 


$17,460 
114,676 
267,226 
729,407 
1,480,214 
11,552,701 


I  First  10  months  of  year  only. 


The  rapid  increase  in  the  exportation  of  rags  from  the  United 
States  into  the  United  Kingdom  has  been  at  least  in  part  due  to  the 
popularity  of  worsteds  and  the  diminished  demand  for  woolen  goods. 
The  imports  of  rags  into  the  United  Kingdom  from  the  United  States 
were  larger  in  1910  and  1911  than  the  importation  from  any  other 
country.  In  1910,  28.48  per  cent  of  all  the  imports  of  woolen  rags 
into  the  United  Kingdom  came  from  the  United  States,  and  of  all 
the  imports  of  woolen  rags  for  the  first  10  months  of  1911  into  the 
United  Kingdom^  34.01  per  cent  came  from  the  United  States. 
WhUe  this  situation  has  brought  the  prices  for  rags  in  the  United 
States  down  to  the  competitive  basis  of  forei^  markets,  the  situation 
has  given  American  dealers  a  chance  to  win  a  place  for  American 
rags  abroad,  and  the  increasing  exports  indicate  success  rather  than 
faflure  in  tneir  undertaking.  The  rag  business  is  really  the  only 
business  protected  by  Schedule  K  that  is  on  an  export  basis. 

Commerce  in  woolen  rags, — Table  53  presents  the  imports  and 
exports  of  woolen  rags  for  certain  leading  foreign  countries.  The 
imports  into  the  United  Kingdom  are  noticeably  large.  Her  manu- 
facturers have  attained  great  skill  in  reclaiming  the  wool  from  rags 
and  making  from  it  cheap  woolen  cloth.  The  chief  countries  from 
which  she  imports  are  Russia  (2,286  long  tons  in  1910),  Denmark 
(1.685  long  tons  in  1910),  Germany  (11,203  long  tons  in  1910),  Neth- 
erlands (3,833  long  tons  in  1910),  Belgium  (3,786  long  tons  in  1910), 
France  (14,425  long  tons  in  1910),  and  the  United  States  (13,787  long 
tons  in  1910). 

Table  53. — Imports  and  exports  of  woolen  rags  for  leading  countries  in  1909  and  1910. 


1909 

1910 

Country. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

United  States  1 

Pounds. 

32,773 

103,967,360 

28,868,576 

14,443,878 

$9,232 

4,376,833 

1,090,754 

758,687 

Pounds. 

Pounds. 

362,525 

132,034,560 

10,291,073 

15,393,840 

$95,191 
5,583,808 
3,173,920 

808,670 

Pounds. 

United  Kingdom... 

Germany' 

France 

62,429,422 
73,136,723 

$3,491,222 
4,930,077 

6.637,120 
56,330,176 
60,118,119 

$721,186 
3,525.256 
4,052,421 

» Including  flocks. 


>  Included  in  shoddy. 


>  Including  silk  and  other  textile  rags. 


84 


BEFOBT  OF  TABIFP  BOABD  01^  SCHEDULE  K. 


MUNQO  AND  PLOCKS. 


PaxaOTaph  374  provides  also  for  mungo  and  flocks.    Munffo  is  a 
low-grade  shoddy  made  from  hard-spun  felted  and  fuUed  doths  aa 

knitted  fabncs.  This  distinction,  however,  is  generaUy  disregarded 
m  the  Amencan  trade  and  mungos  are  classed  as  low-grade  shoddies 
Mocks  are  the  short  fiber  or  nap  shorn  from  the  surface  of  woven 
fabncs  in  the  fimshmg  room.  It  is  so  short  and  fine  that  it  dves  the 
impression  of  pulverized  wool.  After  the  nap  on  a  cloth  Eas  been 
/aised  by  gigging  it  must  be  leveled  and  finished  off  by  shearing  The 
t.f'^^  niachme  acts  hke  a  lawn  mower  in  cutting  the  rai^d  nap, 
and  the  short  wool  chpped  off  by  it  is  known  as  flocks.  Flocks  are 
sometimes  made  by  grinding  woolen  rags  up  into  a  powdered  state. 
Ihey  are  used  m  the  Mlmg  nrocess  to  give  body  and  weight  to  cheap 
fabrics  and  also  for  hmng  rubber  coats  and  like  articles 

Mate  of  duty  and  imports,— The  duty  on  these  articles  is  10  cents 
per  pound.  Mungo  Joes  not  often  appear  in  the  import  statistics  of 
ttie  Umted  States.  In  1911  the  maports  under  the  designation 
mungo-  amounted  to  11  079  pounds,  valued  at  $3,454.  %is  im- 
ported  matenaJ  could  hardly  be  what  is  known  generally  in  the  trade 
as  mungo,  for  its  foreign  valuation  was  about  31  cents  per  pound 

If  any  flocks  are  imported  they  are  included  with  woolen  rags. 
On  account  of  their  low  value  it  is  hkely  that  none  are  imported. 

Frodi^io^  of  mungo  and  jlodcs. —Such  mungo  as  is  produced  in  the 
Umted  States  is  mcluded  with  shoddy.  In  fact,  shoddy,  mungo,  and 
wool  extract  are  all  designated  in  the  trade  as  shoddy.  In  1904  the 
flocks  produced  m  the  United  States  amounted  to  697,295  pounds 
valued  at  $24,862.  This  shows  the  average  value  of  flocks  per- pound 
to  be  a  httle  over  3  cents.  ^     ^ 


I 


BAW  MATEIIIAI.S  IN  WOOL  MANTTTACTintES. 

Materials  used  hy  various  hranches  of  wool  mxinufactures, — ^The 
branches  of  textile  manufacture  affected  bv  the  duty  on  raw  material 
in  Schedule  K  are  the  worsted  industry,  tne  carded  woolen  industry, 
the  hosienr  and  knit-goods  industry,  the  carpet  and  rug  mdustry,  the 
rag  and  shoddy  industry,  and  the  felt-goods  industry.  The  interest 
of  these  branches  in  the  various  raw  materials  is  not  identical.  The 
worsted  industry  uses  more  wool  than  any  other  branch  of  wool  manu- 
factures. In  1909,  in  fact,  it  used  approximately  twice  as  much  wool 
as  all  the  other  branches  together.  The  kinds  of  wool  which  it  uses 
vary  widely.  It  uses  the  heavy  shrinking  territory  wools  as  weH  as  the 
Ohio  delaines ;  it  uses  the  AustraUa  merino  fleeces  as  well  as  the  wools 
from  the  English  breeds.  In  general,  however,  the  foreign  wools 
which  it  uses  are  the  crossbred  and  other  comparatively  light 
shrinking  wools  of  class  1  and  class  2.  It  also  uses  the  luster  EngEsh 
wools,  mohair,  alpaca,  and  some  cotton.  As  compared  with  the 
worsted  industry,  the  amount  of  wool  consumed  by  the  carded  woolen 
industry  is  inconsiderable.  In  the  making  of  mie  broadcloths  and 
other  mgh-class  woolens,  it  uses  the  heavy  shrinking  merino  fleeces, 
but  practically  all  class  1  and  class  2  wools,  except  the  long  luster 
wools,  can  be  worked  in  the  carded  woolen  process.  This  industry 
more  generally  than  the  worsted  buys  its  wool  scoured.  Of  at  least 
equal  importance  in  the  raw  materials  of  the  carded  woolen  industrv 
are  the  oy-products  of  the  worsted  industry  and  reclaimed  wool. 
The  primary  material  of  the  carpet  industry  is  the  native,  class  3, 
wools,  all  of  which  are  imported.  It  also  uses  a  considerable  quantity 
of  coarse  hair,  cotton,  ]ute,  and  other  vegetable  material.  The 
hosiery  and  knit-goods  industry,  while  using  chiefly  cotton,  uses  also, 
some  wool,  shoday,  noils,  and  wool  waste.  Hair,  shoddy,  and  wool 
are  used  in  making  felt  goods.  Rags  are  the  chief  material  of  the 
shoddy  industrjr. 

Effect  of  fashion  on  wool  manufactures  in  England. — The  worsted 
and  carded  woolen  branches  more  directly  compete  with  each  other 
than  any  other  branches.  During  the  last  part  of  the  nineteenth 
century  fashion  in  England  began  to  favor  the  producer  of  worsted 
to  the  detriment  of  the  producer  of  woolens.  Fine  broadcloths  were 
supplanted  by  fine  worsteds,  the  coarser  woolens,  such  as  tweeds 
ana  cheviots,  yielded  to  worsted  serges,  knitted  underclothing  made 
from  worsted  yarns  took  the  place  of  flannels.  In  order  to  meet  this 
change  in  fashion  some  carded-wool  manufacturers  turned  their 
attention  to  weaving  worsteds  and  this  caused  the  shipping  of  worsted 
yarns  into  districts  formerly  noted  for  their  woolens,  so  that  now  a 
district  like  Leeds  is  an  important  worsted  producer.  The  west  of 
England,  famous  for  its  broadcloths,  has  lost  ground  rapidly  within 
the  last  few  decades.  Some  manufacturers  from  that  section  blame 
their  loss  on  competition  with  fine  worsteds  from  the  Huddersfield 

85 


m 


BEPORT  OP  TARIFF  BOARD  OF  SCHEDULE  K. 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE   K. 


87 


I 


district.  The  so-called  Colne  Valley  goods — goods  produced  from 
wool  wastes,  noils,  shoddy,  and  cotton — ^have,  however,  held  their 
own. 

Ejfect  ofjkshion  on  wool  rrmmrfcLctures  in  France. — ^The  Eapport  de 
la  Commission  Permanente  des  Valeurs  de  Douane  pour  l^annee  1910, 
after  discussing  the  prosperous  condition  in  the  worsted  industry  in 
France  during  the  previous  year,  goes  on  to  say: 

The  carded-wool  spiiininf!^  industry  is  unfortunately  in  a  very  different  condition. 
Its  decline  corresponds  to  the  progress  of  the  worsted-yam  industry.  The  year  1908 
had  already  proved  unfavorable  to  the  carded-wool  spinners.  In  fact,  this  industry 
has  been  suffering  for  the  last  two  years  from  the  extraordinary  vogue  of  ttie  worsted 
fabrics  so  well  adapted  for  ladies'  tailored  costumes.  On  the  other  hand,  the  rise  of 
wool  prices  has  also  been  detrimental  to  the  carded-wool  interests.  The  wool  manu- 
facturers have  been  sending  to  the  combers  much  wool  which  imder  ordinary  cir- 
cumstances would  have  been  carded;  then  waste  and  noils  as  well  as  shoddy  raga 
have  been  fetching  very  high  prices,  owing  to  an  unusual  demand  in  foreign  markets, 
especially  in  Russia. 

^  Summing  up  these  various  causes,  the  carded-wool  spinning  industry,  with  very 
little  demand  for  its  goods  during  the  whole  year,  has  had  to  purchase  its  raw  mate- 
rials at  very  hifjh  prices;  therefore  its  condition  has  been  just  as  poor  as  that  of  the 
worsted-yam  spinning  was  prosperous. 

While  these  conaments  apply  to  the  conditions  for  one  year  only, 
they  show  the  place  wliich  fashion  and  public  demand  hold  in  the 
competition  between  the  woolen  and  worsted  industries.  The  woolen 
industry  of  France  is  comparatively^  small,  but,  such  as  it  is,  it  liaa 
suffered  generally  from  the  competition  with  the  worsted  industry. 
Sedan,  like  the  west  of  England,  once  famous  for  its  fine  woolens, 
now  holds  a  humble  and  unimportant  position  in  the  industry  of 
France.  Elboeuf  and  Rheims  have  also  dec  lined  in  competition  with 
Roubaix,  and  some  manufacturers  have  tried  to  rescue  tneir  position 
by  tumiiig  their  attention  from  woolens  to  worsteds. 

There  is  also  a  teclmical  reason  for  the  phenomenal  advance  in  the 
worsted  industry.  Improvements  in  combing  macliinery,  which  made 
possible  the  use  of  the  snort  so-called  clothing  wools  in  worsted  process. 
Before  these  improvements  the  worsted  industry  had  been  confined 
to  a  limited  supply  of  raw  material — the  long  luster  wools  and  hairs; 
after  these  improvements  it  was  able  to  use  the  whole  range  of  wools 
in  the  markets  of  the  world  and  from  these  wools  produce  fabrics 
which  competed  directly  with  woolen  fabrics. 

Competition  between  me  woolen  and  worsted  industries  in  the  United 
States. — ^The  change  in  fashion  in  favor  of  worsteds  and  the  great 
improvements  in  worsted  machinery  have  also  been  the  chief  causes 
of  the  decline  of  the  woolen  industry  and  the  rapid  rise  of  the  worsted 
industry  in  the  United  States.  (See  Chart  1.)  From  1859  to  1869 
the  value  of  worsted  products  increased  496.8  per  cent;  the  value 
of  woolen  products  increased  151.1  per  cent;  from  1869  to  1879 
the  value  of  worsted  products  increased  51.9  per  cent;  the  value 
of  woolen  products  3.3  per  cent;  from  1879  to  1889  the  value  of 
worsted  products  increased  136.1  per  cent,  while  the  value  of 
woolen  products  decHned  16.8  per  cent;  from  1889  to  1899  the 
value  of  worsted  products  increased  51.8  per  cent;  the  value  of  woolen 
products,  on  the  contrary,  declined  11.3  per  cent;  from  1899  to  1909 
the  value  of  worsted  products  increased  205.6  per  cent;  during  the 
same  decade  the  value  of  woolen  goods  declined  9.6  per  cent,  although 
from  1899  to  1904  there  was  an  mcrease  of  20.1  percent,  due  largely 
to  a  revival  in  the  popularity  of  woolen  goods  in  1904.     The  present 


^o      ip^o       i9^o      /yo      fyo  ^ 


ns  2 


o 

3 


IZS 


19^         mo         /890         /890       /<fOO  1*00 


CHART  1. 

Chaet  1.— The  value  of  products  in  millions  of  dollars  in  the  important  branches  of  wool  manufactures  la 

the  United  States,  1800-1913. 


«j« 


11^ 


II 


OO 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


year  (1911)  liaa  witnessed  another  revival  in  the  public  demand  for 
woolen  fabrics,  Cloakings  and  skirtings  made  from  carded  woolen 
yams  are  in  general  favor  among  women.  This  change  in  f asliion  has 
led  some  worsted  manufacturers  to  give  to  their  fabrics  the  rough, 
iinfinished  appearance  of  woolens  in  order  to  meet  the  competition. 
These  revivals  in  the  woolen  industry^  however,  have  never  regained 
for  it  the  position  of  supremacy  wliich  it  once  held.  It  is  undoubtedly 
true  that  the  popularity  with  the  pubHc  of  the  strong,  finished- 
looking  worsteds  as  distinguished  from  the  rough,  heavy  woolens  has 
been  largely  responsible  for  the  contrast  in  growth  between  these  two 
branches  of  wool  manufactures.  But  a  few  facts  about  the  relation 
of  the  two  branches  to  different  raw  materials  is  in  this  connection 
pertinent. 

OonsumpUon  of  raw  wool  in  wool  manufactures. — The  consumption 
of  raw  wool  in  the  various  branches  of  wool  manufactures  is  presented 
in  Table  54. 

Table  54. — Conwrnption  of  raw  wool  in  condition  purchtued  in  the  United  8tatee,  1899 

and  1909. 


Industry. 


Worsted 

Wooten. 

Hosiery  and  knit  goods . 
Carpets  and  rugs 

Felt  goods 

Woolfelt  hats 


1900 


Quantity. 


Pottfub. 

387,717,415 

87,037,d51 

7,068,788 
64,135,020 
12, 400,826 

1,203,496 


Value. 


$100,237,887 

27,429,030 

2,919,055 

11,752,396 

3,927,393 

404,127 


1899 


Quantity. 


Pounds. 

179,977,936 

150,200,616 

17,953,907 

51,871,334 

9,606,283 

2,713,374 


Value. 


144,306,141 

34,497,689 

6,262,136 

8,104,107 

2,196,440 

788,973 


Per  cent  of  increase. 


Quantity. 


115.42 
142.05 
160.63 
23.64 
29.18 
166.66 


Value. 


146.56 
120.49 
144.52 
45.02 
78.81 
148.78 


iDecrease. 


Not  only  did  the  worsted  industry  use  more  than  four  times  as 
much  raw  wool  in  1909  as  any  other  branch  of  wool  manufactures, 
but  it  shows  the  greatest  increase  in  consumption  during  the  decade. 
Its  consumption  of  raw  wool  increased  115.42  per  cent  in  quantity 
and  146.55  per  cent  in  value.  The  consumption  of  wool  in  the 
woolen  industry  during  the  decade  dechned  42.05  per  cent  in  quan* 
tity  and  20.49  per  cent  in  value.  This  decline  is  relatively  much 
greater  than  the  decline  in  the  value  of  woolen  products  for  the 
same  period.  In  the  hosiery  and  knit  goods,  the  consumption  of 
wool  decMned  60.63  per  cent  in  quantity  and  44.53  per  cent  m  value, 
but  the  value  of  products  for  the  same  period  increased.  The  carpet 
industry  shows  a  substantial  increase  of  23.64  per  cent  in  quantity 
and  45.02  per  cent  in  value  in  the  consumption  of  wool.  The  figures 
for  the  carpet  industry  in  Table  54,  however,  do  not  represent  aU 
the  wool  consumed  in  the  manufacture  of  carpets,  because  several 
million  pounds  are  used  by  the  woolen  and  worsted  mills  which 
make  carpet  yams  and  subsequently  sold  to  the  carpet  manufac- 
turers. The  felt-goods  industry  also  shows  an  mcrease  in  the  con- 
sumption of  woof  of  29.18  per  cent  in  quantity  and  78.81  per  cent 
in  value. 

Duty  on  grea^  wool. — ^No  raw  material  varies  more  widely  in 
quahty,  condition,  and  use  than  raw  wool.  Wools  in  their  natural 
condition  contain  a  widely  varying  percentage  of  grease  and  dirt. 


^ 


t 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


89 


The  wools  classed  as  class  1  and  2  vary  in  the  per  cent  of  waste 
material  which  they  contain  from  10  per  cent  at  one  extreme  to  80 
per  cent  at  the  other.  A  fleece  from  an  Angora  goat  or  Lincoln 
sheep  may  shrink  in  scouring  only  10  or  20  per  cent,  leaving  80  or 
90  ^er  cent  of  clean  wool;  a  Cape  or  AustraHan  merino  fleece,  on  the 
contrary,  may  shrink  as  high  as  50  to  70  per  cent,  yielding  only 
60  to  30  per  cent  of  clean  wool.  It  is  clear  that  under  such  condi- 
tions a  flat  specific  duty  of  11  and  12  cents  per  greasy  pound  will 
produce   many   variations.     A   manufacturer   counts   his   duty   as 

Eaid  on  the  scoured  contents  of  the  wool  which  he  buys.  Hence, 
e  who  buys  a  lot  of  heavy  shrinking  merino  fleeces,  shrinking,  say, 
60  per  cent,  pays  a  duty  on  the  clean  wool  of  27i  cents  per  pound; 
he,  on  the  contrary,  who  imports  an  Enghsh  fleece  shrinking  20 
per  cent  pays  15  cents  per  scoured  pound;  or,  he  who  imports 
crossbred  fleeces  shrinking  40  per  cent  pays  a  duty  of  18J  cents  per 
scoured  pound.  It  should  be  said,  however,  that,  generally  speak- 
ing, the  wool  fiber  in  heavy  shrinlong  fleeces  is  more  valuable  than 
the  wool  fiber  in  hght  shrinking  fleeces,  and  that  while  the  former, 
when  imported,  do  not  yield  as  much  clean  wool,  they  yield  a  more 
valuable  fiber  than  the  latter,  which  tends  to  equalize  the  apparent 
discrimination  against  them. 

Effect  of  no  double  duty  on  wa^Tied  class  2  wools. — ^From  1854  to  1866 
the  class  2  long  wools  of  Canada  were  admitted  free  of  duty  under  the 
reciprocity  treaty.  These  wools  were  then  the  only  raw  material  of 
the  worsted  industry,  at  that  time  in  its  infancy,  for  combing  machui- 
ery  had  not  yet  been  improved  so  that  class  1  wools  might  be  combed. 
When  the  question  of  fixing  duties  on  wool  was  discussed  in  1866  and 
1867,  it  was  recognized  that  the  custom  of  washiag  wool  on  the  sheep's 
back  was  practiced  generally  in  Canada  and  the  United  Kingdom — 
the  only  important  sources  of  the  long  wools.  In  order  to  make  effec- 
tive the  duty  on  greasy  wool  of  class  1,  the  duty  on  class  1  wools,  if 
washed,  was  doubled,  but  since  class  2  wools  (i.  e.,  those  of  English 
blood)  were  not  raised  in  the  United  States,  and  since  doubling  the 
duty  on  them  would  virtually  operate  to  prevent  their  importation, 
a  concession  was  made  to  the  then  infant  worsted  industry,  which  at 
that  time  used  only  the  long  English  wools,  and  the  duty  on  class  2 
wools  was  not  doubled.  Since  this  provision  of  Schedule  K  was  intro- 
duced, combing  machinery  has  been  improved  so  that  class  1  wools 
have  become  the  common  raw  material  or  both  the  woolen  and  worsted 
industries.  Although  at  the  present  time,  therefore,  class  2  wools  are 
used  almost  entirely  by  the  worsted  industry,  their  relative  impor- 
tance as  a  raw  material  is  comparatively  insignificant.  Substantiallv 
all  of  these  wools  consumed  in  the  United  States  come  from  abroad. 
In  the  fiscal  year  of  1909,  17,891,765  pounds  of  class  2  wools  and  hairs 
were  imported.  The  total  quantity  of  foreign  or  imported  wools 
however,  consumed  by  the  worsted  mdustry  in  1909  was  150,629,400 
pounds,  and  substantially  *  all  of  this,  except  thQ  comparatively  small 
amount  of  class  2  wools  imported,  was  of  class  1  wool.  The  woolen 
industry,  on  the  contrary,  consumed  in  1909  only  13,523,687  pounds 
of  foreign  wool.*     (These  figures  of  course  do  not  include  the  domestic 

1  In  the  wool  consumed  by  both  the  woolen  and  worsted  industries  is  included  a  comi)aratively  small 
Vwmtity,  not  reported  separately,  of  class  3  wools  which  was  consumed  by  woolen  and  worsted  mills  spin- 
ning carpet  yams.  But  for  purposes  of  comparison  the  amounts  used  by  the  r^pective  industries  may  be 
ocmsidered  as  ofisetting  each  other. 


90 


BEPORT  OP  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDtJIiE  K. 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOAR©  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


91 


II 


wool  consumed.)  From  these  facts  two  things  are  evident — (1)  that 
the  worsted  industry  uses  more  class  1  than  dtss  2  wools,  (2)  that  the 
worsted  industry  uses  more  class  1  wool  than  the  carded  woolen  indus- 
try. It  follows,  therefore,  that,  while  in  so  far  as  the  worsted  industry 
uses  class  2  wools,  the  absence  of  the  double  duty  on*  them,  when 
washed,  is  of  some  advantage,  the  double  duty  on  class  1  wools  now 
affects  the  worsted  more  than  it  does  the  woolen  industry. 

Effect  of  trifle  duty  on  scoured  wool. — ^While  mills  very  generally  in 
the  United  States  scour  their  own  wools,  this  practice  is  more  common 
in  the  worsted  than  in  the  woolen  mills.  This  is  due  both  to  the 
larger  size  and  more  speciaHzed  nature  of  the  worsted  mills  and  to  the 
use  of  by-products  and  reclaimed  wool  in  addition  to  new  wool  by  the 
woolen  mdustry.  Some  of  the  smaE  woolen  mills,  making  the  lower 
grades  of  goods,  purchase  in  the  scoured  condition  such  wool  as  they 
use  for  blending  with  wool  substitutes.  In  so  far.  therefore,  as  the  one 
industry  uses  more  scoured  wool  than  the  other,  it  is  put  at  some  dis- 
advantage by  the  triple  duty  on  scoured  wool,  which  virtually  acts  to 
exclude  all  wool  offered  for  sale  in  this  condition  abroad. 

Consumption  of  animal  hair  in  vx>ol  manufactures, — The  consump- 
tion of  animal  hair  of  all  kinds,  including  mohair,  alpaca,  camePs  ban-, 
cow  hair,  etc.,  in  the  United  States  is  presented  in  Table  55. 

Table  55. — CorimmptionofaniTrmlhairo/aUUndainthe  United  States,^  1899  and  1909. 


Industry. 


Worsted 

Woolen 

Cttrpet  and  rug. 

Felt  goods 

Woof  felt  hats. 


m» 


18SB 


Quantity. 


Potmdi. 

7,441,650 

17,719,863 

5,400,944 

8,148,411 

142,001 


Value. 


$2,137,222 

1,194,812 

474,057 

242,744 

280,134 


Quantity. 


Pounds. 
4.504,438 
21,034,607 
6,189,757 
2,819,521 
121,482 


Value. 


11,443,499 

1,584,964 

649,610 

125,803 

87,196 


Per  cent  of  increase. 


Quantity. 


65.21 
•15.76 
•12.74 
189.00 

16.89 


Value. 


48.06 
•24.62 
» 13. 78 

92.96 
221.27 


1  Includes  small  quantities  of  hatters'  fur. 


•Decrease. 


Hair  used  in  the  woolen  and  worsted  industries  in  1899  includes 
1,980,820  pounds  of  camel,  alpaca,  and  vicuna  hair,  valued  at 
$425,669,  and  in  1909,  4,564,080  pounds  of  camel,  alpaca,  and  vicuna 
hair,  valued  at  $1,395,331.  Monair  is  also  included  in  the  table. 
The  consumption  of  mohair  in  the  United  States  has  been  as  follows: 
In  1899,  3,023,146  pounds,  valued  at  $1,432,028;  in  1904,  2,684,573 
pounds  of  domestic  mohair,  valued  at  $839,731,  and  2,935,623  pounds 
of  foreign  fiaohair,  valued  at  $1,077,629;  and  in  1909,  2,453,984 
pounds  of  domestic  mohair,  valued  at  $624,579,  and  787,358  pounds 
of  foreign  mohair,  valued  at  $379,213.  These  figures  show  a  decrease 
between  1904  and  1909,  but  a  shght  increase  between  1899  and  1909. 
The  largest  decrease  between  1904  and  1909  was  in  the  consumption 
of  foreign  mohair.  The  hosiery  and  knit-goods  industry  also  used 
191,344  pounds  of  animal  hair,  valued  at  $62,363,  in  1909. 

The  remainder  and  the  largest  percentage  of  the  hair  reported  in 
Table  55  is  coarse  hair,  such  as  cattle  hair.  A  large  part  of  it  is 
reported  in  the  woolen  industry.  Practically  all  of  tms  nair  finds  its 
way  ultimately  into  the  carpet  industries  and  Httle,  if  any,  is  used  in 
making  cloth.    The  milk  which  use  it  make  carpet  yams,  but  are 


reported  by  the  United  States  Census  Bureau  with  the  woolen  indus- 
try. A  decUne  in  the  production  of  ingrain  carpets  largely  explains 
the  decline  of  15.76  per  cent  in  quantity  and  24.62  per  cent  in  value 
of  animal  hair  consumed  by  the  woolen  mdustr^r.  Tne  shoddy  indus- 
try also  consumed  a  small  amount  of  animal  hair  in  1909.  It  should 
be  noted  here  that  cattle  and  similar  hairs  are  admitted  to  the  United 
States  free  of  duty  under  paragraph  583  of  the  act  of  August  5, 1909. 
Consumption  of  waste  and  noils  in  wool  manufacture. — The  con- 
sumption of  wool  waste  and  noils  in  the  various  branches  of  wool 
manufactures  is  presented  in  Table  56. 

Table  56. — Consumption  of  waste  and  noils  in  the  United  States,^  1899  and  1909. 


Industry. 


Worsted 

Woolen 

Hosiery  and  knit  goods 

Carpets  and  rugs 

Felt  goods 

Wool  felt  hats 


1909 


Quantity. 


Pounds. 
2, 730. 136 
23,743,175 
8,586,261 
2,732,034 
4,874,712 
1,281,789 


Value. 


1840,381 
6,682,902 
2,813,129 

513,392 
1,220.110 

661,178 


1899 


Quantity. 


Pounds. 
1,941,546 
13,772,625 
5,408,189 
2.325,054 
2,653,590 
862,982 


Value. 


1571,350 

3,320,019 

1,527,764 

305,733 

552,992 

370,792 


Per  cent  of  increase. 


Quantity. 


40.62 
72.39 
58.76 
17.50 
83.70 
48.53 


Value. 


47.09 
101.29 

84.13 

67.92 
120.64 

78.31 


1  Includes  small  quantities  of  waste  and  noils  of  camel,  alpaca,  and  vicuna  hair,  and  mohair. 

Noils  and  waste,  reported  as  consumed  by  the  worsted  industry,  are 
consumed  by  those  mills  which,  although  predominantljr  worsted,  pro- 
duce some  woolen  yarns  or  fabrics.  The  carded- woolen  industry  is  the 
chief  consumer  of  these  by-products.  During  the  decade  the  amount 
it  consumed  increased  72.39  per  cent  in  quantity  and  101.29  per  cent 
in  value.  Their  consumption  in  the  hosiery  and  knit-goods  mdustry 
increased  58.76  per  cent  m  quantity  and  84.13  per  cent  in  value;  and 
in  the  carpet  and  rug  industry  17.50  per  cent  m  quantity  and  67.92 
per  cent  in  value;  and  in  the  felt  industry  83.70  per  cent  in  quantity 
and  120.64  per  cent  in  value.  The  shoddy  industry  also  reported 
7,567,579  pounds  of  waste  and  noils  among  its  materials  in  1909,  and 
4,236,028  pounds  in  1899. 

Effect  of  the  duties  on  noils  and  wastes. — ^The  'duties  on  noils  and 
waste  (20  and  30  cents  per  pound)  are  similar  to  all  duties  on  raw  and 
semimanufactured  products  in  that  they  protect  the  products  of  one 
industry  (the  worsted  industry)  and  raise  the  price  of  raw  materials  for 
others.  These  duties  are  also  intended,  indirectly,  to  protect  the  wool- 
grower  by  preventing  the  importation  of  materials  that  might  be  used 
as  substitutes  for  raw  wool.  The  high  duties  on  these  raw  materials, 
used  chiefly  by  woolen  and  knitting  mdustries,  confines  those  needing 
them  to  the  domestic  supply,  for  the  importation  of  them  is  negUgible. 
(See  pp.  75  and  78.) 

Consumption  of  woolen  rags  in  wool  manufactures. — The  consump- 
tion of  woolen  rags  in  the  United  States  is  shown  in  Table  57. 


m 


m 


4 


1 


92  BEPORT  OP  TAMFF  BOAED  ON  SCHEDXJIiB  K. 

Table  57.— Consumption  of  woolen  rags  in  the  United  States,  1899  and  1909. 


Industry. 


mm 


1890 


Quantity. 


oi.  ^j  Pounds. 

^^^y 64,561,713 

w«.,-.„  38,387:554 

527,302 
1,115,092 
2,014,906 


Value,       Quantity. 


Woolen 

Carpets  and  rugs. 

Felt  goods 

Woisted 


$3,051,045 

2,691,458 

21,020 

67,358 

165,506 


Pounds. 
79,623,312 


Value. 


Per  cent  of  decrease. 


Quantity.       Value. 


13,558,706 

2,817,663 

6,125 

60,098 


18.92 


14.27 

4.48 

1243.18 

114.49 


1  Increase. 


AU  the  rags  ia  the  above  table  are  domestic,  for  the  imports  of  raes 
axe  neghgible  on  account  of  the  high  duty  of  10  cenS  oer  nnn^ 
Tins  duty  in  theory  protects  the  domestic  r^  busine^rbut^at  p^resei 
It  13  moperative,  rfue  to  the  lai^e  export  trade  in  r^      (S^^n  s?> 

?8  ollfrr ^P*"^  ^  '^^  ^"r^  ^•f"«*'7  decuiSdTring^S  LSI 
18.92  per  cent  m  quantity  and  14.27  per  cent  in  value     The  vaJueof 

aho^TrtMiKLtT&f^STs:''^  '^"'^^"'"^^'•''^ "' 


Industry. 


Worsted 

Woolen 

Hosiery  and  knit  good's 

Carpets  and  rugs 

Felt  goods 


IWO 


Quantity. 


Pounds. 
1,335,882 
20,118,305 
7,482,563 
824,827 
2,536,243 


Value. 


1899 


Quantity. 


$223,147 

2,835,067 

919,970 

56,345 

261,878 


Pounds. 

1,807,827 
31,228,940 

3,770,626 
744,233 
712,373 


Value. 


Per  cent  of  increase. 


Quantity.    Value 


$303,644 

3,767,192 

488.792 

43,555 

80,737 


126.11 

135.58 

98.44 

10.83 

256.03 


126.61 

124.74 

88.21 

29.37 

224.36 


1  Decrease. 


iinl  H^  If  •  I'^T  ^?^^/^o^^y  Purchased  by  the  specified  industries 
me  tCZ     Tn  1  «a^^^^^      "^^^^  ^^  ^?^^^P'  carpet;  and  felt  mills  fo^ 

SVmiif tn'    f  if  ^>^0^   pounds   of   shoddy,    valued    at   $2,873,886 
Almost  all  of  this  waa  made  m  woolen  mills.     In  1909  the  wciolen 

?«t«7Ti^  ^*'''  i^^^  ^^  "^^  31,021,323  pounds  of  shodd/f^om 
SiS  ii?r«7fnnn  ''^' a  ^^e  f elt  goods^mills  also  produced  fS^ 

SF  ^^  Vj®  875,000  pounds  of  shoddy. 

Ihe  shoddy  purchased  by  the  woolen  mills  shows  a  decHne  of  35  58 
per  cent  m  quantity  and  24.74  oer  cent  in  value.  For  th^Zie  period 
32  72  n^!^!"^  *^^^^"^^t^*y  ot  wool  in  scoured  condition  useSw^ 
^oaH.^n!?  f  1  •  P!  consumption  of  shoddy  in  the  hosieiy  and  knit 
goods  and  f^t  mdustnes  however,  shows  an  increase. 

StaiStff^nx^f  ?•''''  '^y--^  sij^ddv  consumed  in  the  United 
btates  IS  of  domestic  manufacture.  The  duty  of  25  cents  per  pound 
mtended  m  part  to  protect  the  shoddy  industiy  in  the  l^iQ  i^ates 


BEPORT  OF   TARIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


98 


and  in  part  to  prevent  the  importation  of  a  material  that  would  com- 
pete with  raw  wool,  shuts  out  effectively  all  importation.  It  is  said 
m  justification  of  the  high  duty  on  shoddy  that  the  exclusion  of  it 
from  the  United  States  removes  the  temptation  to  use  the  cheap 
substitutes  offered  for  sale  in  the  markets  of  the  world  and  encourages 
the  use  of  new  wool.  On  the  other  hand,  it  is  claimed  that  there  is 
not  sufficient  new  wool  available  to  make  all  the  fabrics  required  for 
clothing  the  people  and  that  the  wider  choice,  therefore,  the  manu- 
facturer has  m  buying  his  wool  substitutes,  the  better  grades  he  will 


use. 


Consumption  of  cotton  and  cotton  yam  in  wool  manufactures. — ^The 
consumption  of  cotton  and  cotton  yam  in  the  United  States  is  pre- 
sented m  Table  59. 

Table  59. — Consumption  of  cotton  and  cotton  yam  in  the  United  States ^  1899  and  1909. 


Industry. 


Worsted 

Woolen 

Hosiery  and  knit  goods. 

Carpets  and  rags 

Felt  goods , 


1909 

• 

1899 

Per  cent  of  increase. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Pounds. 
26,503,554 
32,689,895 
292,403,634 
31,313,371 
1,638,895 

$7,225,423 
5,782,171 

66,969,258 

5,305,896 

220,728 

Pounds. 
18,697,341 
56,890,095 
181,271,369 
21,767,503 
1,277,557 

$3,556,554 
6,537,725 

25,766,510 

2,874,377 

87,340 

41.75 
142.64 
61.31 
43.85 
28.28 

103.16 
111.56 
121.10 
84.59 
152.72 

1  Decrease. 

The  decHne  during  the  decade  in  the  use  of  cotton  and  cotton  yam 
used  in  the  woolen  industrjr  was  42.54  per  cent  in  quantity  and  11.56 
per  cent  in  value;  the  estimated  scoured  weight  of  the  wool  used 
declined  at  the  same  time  32.72  per  cent.  While  the  amount  of 
cotton  and  cotton  yam  used  in  the  worsted  industry  increased  41.75 
per  cent  in  quantitv  and  103.16  per  cent  in  value,  the  estimated 
scoured  weight  of  tjae  wool  used  increased  123.13  per  cent.  From 
these  percentages  it  is  clear  that  the  consumption  of  cotton  and  cotton 
yam  m  the  woolen  industry  declined  faster  than  the  consumption  of 
raw  wool  and  that  their  consumption  by  the  worsted  industry  did  not 
increase  nearly  so  fast  as  the  consumption  of  new  wool.  The  worsted 
industry  buys  the  greater  percentage  of  its  cotton  in  the  form  of  yam, 
and  the  woolen  industry  buys  cotton  and  cotton  yarn  about  half  and 
half.  This  accounts  for  the  relatively  higher  valuation  of  the  cotton 
and  cotton  yarn  used  by  the  worsted  industry. 

Use  of  cotton. — Cotton  yarn  purchased  by  tne  woolen  and  worsted 
industries  is  used  almost  entirely  in  making  cotton-warp  dress  goods, 
the  so-called  cotton  worsteds  for  men's  wear,  which  generally  have  the 
warp  of  cotton  and  the  filling  of  worsted,  cotton-warp  blankets  and 
the  like.  Raw  cotton,  used  primarily  by  the  woolen  industry,  is  used 
for  making  merino  or  mixed  yams  from  which  cotton  mixed  or  union 
fabiics  are  made. 

Cotton  in  hosiery  and  Tcnit^oods  industry. — The  United  States  census 
of  1890  wjus  the  last  census  which  included  the  hosiery  and  knit-goods 
industry  under  "Wool  manufactures."  In  the  census  of  1900  it 
was  presented  in  connection  with  wool  manufactures,  but  as  a 
separate  division  of  the  textile  industries.  This  change  was  made 
because  of  the  rapid  increase  of  cotton  used  in  hosiery  and  knit 


94 


REPOBT  OF  TAEIFF  BOAKD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


BEPOET  OF  TARIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


95 


tHo     mo    /ggo    /g9o     /9oo    mo 


to 


3o 


.y 


J 
.^1 


I 


I 


f 


/ 

U 


I 


/ 


t 


J- 


^1 

o/ 


T 


300 


Z70 


ZHO 


Zto 


t9o 


tsozr 

0 

ar 

/20 


io 


Co 


do 


/ato      /^7o     feeo     isfo      i9qo     19  to 


CHART  2. 

Chabt  2.— Consumption  of  cotton  and  cotton  yam  in  %h»  spectfled  branciies  of  wool  manufactures, 

1860-1910. 


ffoodfl  and  there  still  being  a  substantial  amount  of  wool  used  in 
these 'goods,  they  could  not  be  included  in  cotton  manufactures. 
It  was  therefore  thought  desirable  to  discuss  these  goods  in  connec- 
tion with  wool,  both  because  wool  and  wool  products  are  used  in  them 
and  because  knit  goods,  even  when  made  wholly  of  cotton,  compete 
directly  with  woolen  goods. 

Chart  2  presents  graphically  the  cotton  and  cotton  yam  used  in 
the  various  or anches  of  wool  manufactures.  It  shows  a  very  decided 
increase  in  the  use  of  cotton  and  cotton  yarn  in  hosiery  and  knit 
goods  since  1890.  The  increase  in  the  use  of  cotton  and  cotton  yarn 
during  the  decade  of  1899-1909,  as  shown  in  Table  59,  was  61.31  per* 
cent  m  quantity  and  121.10  per  cent  in  value.  In  no  industry  is 
the  competition  between  wool  and  cotton  more  keen  than  the  making 
of  hosiery  and  knitted  goods,  and  cotton,  being  cheaper,  has  rapidly 
supplanted  wool.  Cheapness  of  the  product,  however^  is  not  the  only 
reason  for  the  greatly  increased  use  of  cotton  in  hosiery  and  under- 
wear. Improvements  in  heating,  and  change  even  in  pubHc  ideas  as 
to  what  sort  of  clothing  is  necessary,  has  led  to  the  substitution  of  the 
light,  nonshrinking  hose  or  undergarment  for  flannel  underclothing 
or  the  all-wool  hose.  This  pubHc  demand  for  Hght,  knitted  garments 
and  hose  is  the  most  important  cause  for  the  increased  consumption 
of  cotton  and  cotton  yarn  by  the  knitting  mills. 

Relative  increases  in  the  materials  used  in  wool  manufadfwres. — In  the 
discussions  of  the  consumption  of  the  various  raw  materials  used  in 
wool  manufactures,  absolute  increases  or  decreases  have  been  given 
primary  place,  and  relative  increases  have  only  been  mentioned  occa- 
sionally. The  increased  consumption  of  cotton  and  cotton  yam  in 
the  hosiery  and  knit-goods  industry  is  not  only  absolutely  larger,  but 
relatively  larger  than  the  consumption  of  wool  or  wool  products; 
in  some  cases  wool  products  show  a  greater  per  cent  of  increase  dur- 
ing the  decade  than  cotton  or  cotton  yarn,  but  those  that  show 
greater  increase  are  relatively  small  in  quantity.  (See  Table  214.) 
The  materials  used  in  the  woolen  and  worsted  industries  are  of  great 
importance  to  the  public.  The  relative  amounts  of  new  wool  (esti- 
mated on  the  scoured  basis),  wool  waste  and  noils,  shoddy,  and  cotton 
and  cotton  yarn  used  by  tnese  industries  in  1889,  1899,  and  1909  are 
presented  in  Table  60. 

Table  60. — The  relative  importance  of  principal  materials  itsed  in  the  woolen  and  worsted 

industries  of  the  United  States,  1909,  1899,  and  1889. 


1909 

1899 

1889 

Per  cent  of  totAl. 

1909 

1899 

1889 

Total 

Pounds. 
429,500,930 

Pounds. 
362,314,908 

Pounds. 
299,007,616 

100.00 

100.00 

100  00 

Wool  in  scoured  condition 

Wool  waste  and  noils 

290,706,970 
26,079,691 
63,620,820 
59,193,449 

192,705,519 
15,359,021 
68,662,932 
75,687,436 

155,215,840 
14,999,813 
54,471,228 
74,320,735 

67.69 

6.07 

12.46 

13.78 

64.70 

4.36 

19.49 

21.46 

51.91 
5  02 

Shoddy  1 

18.22 
24  Aft 

Cotton  and  cotton  yarn. . . ... 

1  Includes  shoddy  made  in  mill  lor  uso  therein. 


96 


BEPOHT  OF  TABIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDUIiE  K. 


EEPORT  OF   TARIFF   BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


97 


CHART  3. 

ClUMT  3.— Raw  wool,  cotton,  rags,  and  shoddy,  and  wool  waste  and  noils  izaed  by  all  the  branches  of  wool 

nta&unctuies,  1860-191Q. 


1 


In  1889  the  new  wool  used  in  the  woolen  and  worsted  industries 
represented  51.91  per  cent  of  the  raw  materials  mentioned  in  Table 
60;  in  1899  it  represented  54.70  per  cent;  and  in  1909  it  had  increased 
to  67.69  per  cent.  Wool  waste  and  noils  represented  5.02  per  cent 
of  these  raw  materials  in  1889,  4.36  per  cent  in  1899,  and  6.07  per 
cent  in  1909.  Shoddy  represented  18.22  per  cent  of  these  materials 
in  1889,  19.49  per  cent  m  1899,  and  only  12.46  per  cent  in  1909. 
Cotton  and  cotton  ya^^n  represented  24.85  per  cent  of  these  materials 
in  1889,  21.45  per  cent  in  1899,  and  only  13.78  per  cent  in  1909. 
The  table  shows  that  cotton,  cotton  yarn,  and  shoddy  were  relatively 
of  less  importance  as  compared  witli  new  wool  in  producing  woolen 
and  worsted  clothing  in  1909  than  in  1889  or  1899. 

Chief  materials  consumed  in  wool  manufactures,  1869-1909. — Table 
61  presents  materials  used  in  wool  manufactures,  including  the  hosiery 
and  knit-goods  industry,  in  the  United  States  from  1869  to  190&. 
Oiart  3  also  shows  the  facts  of  this  table  graphically,  which  relate  to 
raw  wool,  cotton,  shoddy,  and  wool  waste  and  noils.  The  tops  and 
yarns  reported  in  the  table  do  not  include  those  made  in  mills  for  use 
therein,  out  only  those  purchased. 

Table  61: — Materials  used  in  wool  manufactures  in  the    United  States:  Worsted  and 
woolen  goods,  felt  goods,  carpets  and  rugs,  wool  felt  hats,  hosiery  and  hiit  goods. 


Census 
of- 

Raw  wool 
in  condition 
purchased. 

Animal 
hair,  hair 
yam,  and 
nair  noils. 

Cotton  nnd 

cotton 

yam. 

Rags  and 
shoddy. 

Wool  waste 
and  noils. 

Tops. 

Woolen 

yam  and 

merino 

yam. 

Worsted 
yam. 

1869... 

Pounds. 
219,970,174 

296,192,229 
372, 797, 413 
412,323,430 
500,826,711 
559,572,498 

Pounds. 

Pounds. 
42,526,148 
92,315,902 
159, 053, 733 
279, 903, 8('5 
309,109,983 
384,549,349 

Pounds. 
19,574,261 
52,163,926 
61, 661, 619 
75, 267, 134 
124,330,950 
74,342,664 

Pounds. 

POttTWfo. 

Pounds. 
12, 68.'),  390 

14,708,862 
31,385,664 
47,411,070 
49,208,128 
39,360,740 

Pounds. 

1,958,880 

1879 

8,077,966 
27, 425, 689 
36, 204, 917 
44,650,081 
39,354  301 

9,436,952 

1889... 
1899... 

1904... 

iyj9. . . 

23,370,056 

26,390,993 

35,380,247 

143, 446;  599 

"'5,' 999,180" 
10,843,036 
20,949,810 

28,813,717 

40,200,951 
51,193,275 
80,811,524 

32080 


oao 


1  Contains  small  amount  of  hair  noils. 
-H.  Doc.  342, 62-2,  vol  1 7 


i   t 
I 


I 


PART  1:  GLOSSARY  ON  SCHEDULE  K 


SECTION  2 


11 

1  i 


U9 


t 


t 


1l 


Section  2.— PARAGRAPHS  RELATING  TO  MANUFACTURES. 

THE   COMPEXSATORY  DUTIES. 

Nature  of  compensatory  duties. — The  compensatory  duties  appear 
first  in  the  act  of  1909  in  the  paragraph  which  provides  for  the  duty 
on  combed  wool  (375),  and  they  contmue  to  the  end  of  the  schedule. 
All  specific  duties,  i.  e.,  duties  on  weight  in  pargaraph  375  and  there- 
after in  Schedule  K,  are  in  theory  intended  simply  to  compensate  the 
manufacturer  for  the  increased  price  which  he  must  pay  for  his  raw 
wool,  the  increase  being  measured  by  the  duty  on  raw  wool.  These 
duties,  if  adjusted  perfectly,  would  put  the  domestic  manufacturer 
on  the  same  basis  as  his  foreign  competitor  who  has  free  w^ool.  They 
are  intended  to  be  arranged  on  the  basis  of  the  quantity  and  quality 
of  raw  material  used  by  the  domestic  manufacturer  in  making  the 
specific  goods  to  which  the  duty  applies  and  in  theory  they  contain 
no  protection,  but  all  processes  and  skill  are  protected  by  the  ad 
valorem  duty  which  in  each  paragraph  follows  the  specific  duty. 

Origin  of  compensatory  duties. — Compensatory  duties  were  intro- 
duced for  the  first  time  into  legislation  relating  to  wool  manufactures 
in  the  act  of  March  2,  1861.  In  that  law  wools  that  competed  with 
American  fine  wool  (Mestiza  and  Cape  wools)  were  made  dutiable  at 
3  cents  per  pound. 

It  was  assumed  that  it  required  4  pounds  of  greasy  Mestiza  wool 
(a  heavy  shrinking  wool  from  South  America)  to  make  a  pound  of 
finished  cloth.  The  compensatory  duty,  therefore,  on  w^oolen  cloth 
was  fixed  at  four  times  3  cents,  or  12  cents  per  pound.  Wlien,  in  the 
act  of  June  30,  1864,  the  duty  on  competing  foreign  wool  was  fixed 
at  6  cents  per  pound,  the  compensatory  duty  on  cloths  was  fixed  at 
24  cents  per  pound. 

Compensatory  duties  in  the  law  of  1867. — In  1866,  when  the  com- 
mittee of  wool  manufacturers  took  up  the  consideration  of  the  tariff 
on  wool^  manufactures,  they  had  before  them  the  4  to  1  ratio  used 
already  in  two  laws  as  a  basis  for  compensatory  duties.  No  elaborate 
investigation  was  conducted  in  order  to  fincf  the  average  shrinkage 
of  wools,  but  one  test  was  -made  by  the  committee  to  determine  the 
amount  of  tlie  heaviest  shrinkmg  wool  then  m  the  American  market 
(Mestiza  wool)  recjuired  to  make  cassimeres  and  doesldns.  In  their 
report  to  the  United  States  Revenue  Commission,  the  committee 
says  that  they — 

obtained  from  the  books  of  the  Proctorville  Woolen  Mill,  situated  in  the  State  of 
Vermont,  a  statement  of  the  semiannual  production  of  cloth,  the  consumption  of 
wool  in  making  such  cloth,  and  the  weight  of  each  yard  of  cloth  manufactured.  From 
this  statement  it  appears  that  certain  lots  of  cloth  made  in  that  mill  from  the  let  day 
of  January,  1865,  to  the  last  day  of  Jime,  inclusive,  to  wit,  six  months,  and  from  the 
1st  day  of  July,  1865,  to  the  last  day  of  December,  1865,  were  manufactured  wholly 
trom  Mestiza  wool.  The  accounts  of  the  mill  show  that  there  were  manufactured  in 
the  mill,  wholly  from  Mestiza  wool,  in  the  first  six  months,  77,320  yards  of  black 
cafisimeres;  that  32.4  ounces  of  wool,  as  purchased  in  the  market,  were  consumed  in 

101 


102 


EEPOET  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  OK  SCHEDULE  K. 


EEPOET  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


II 


li 


If 


the  manufacture  of  each  yard  of  aaid  77,320  yards  of  cloth,  and  that  the  average  weight 
per  yard  of  the  cloth  was  8.2  ounces;  or,  m  other  words,  32.4  ounces  of  wool  were 
required  to  make  8.2  ounces  of  finished  cloth.  The  accounts  of  the  mill  show  that, 
in  the  last  six  months,  there  were  manufactured,  wholly  from  Mestiza  wool,  79,606t 
yards  of  black  doeskins;  that  the  average  weight  of  said  doeskins  was  8.2  ounces  per 
yard,  and  that  31.1  ounces  of  wool  were  required  to  make  8.2  ounces  of  such  cloth. 

The  ratio,  then,  during  the  first  six  months  of  this  test  was  32.4  to 
8.2;  during  the  second  six  months  31.1  to  8.2,  a  ratio  which  is  approxi- 
mately 4  to  1.  The  ratio  of  4  to  1,  still  found  in  several  paragraphs 
of  the  act  of  August  5,  1909,  is  therefore  based  on  the  shrinkage  of 
the  heaviest  shrinking  wools  in  the  American  market  in  1865,  and  it 
appears  to  have  been  true  that  these  wools  shrunk  75  per  cent  from, 
greasy  weight  to  finished  cloth. 

In  1866  the  manufacturei.  asked  for  a  compensatory  duty  of  53 
cents  per  pound  on  cloths.  (They  were  given  50  cents  m  the  law  of 
1867.)  Tlxe  woolgrowers  had  Auestel  a  duty  of  10  cents  per 
pound  and  10  pe?  cent  ad  valorem  on  wools  valued  at  32  cents 
or  less  per  pound.  (In  the  act  of  1867  the  duty  was  10  cents  per 
pound  and  11  per  cent  ad  valorem.)  Assuming  that  Mestiza  wools 
were  worth  15  cents  per  pound,  the  manufacturers  reduced  the  duty 
on  wools  valued  at  32  or  less  cents  to  a  specific  basis  of  llj  cents  per 
pound.  With  tliis  as  their  starting  poijit,  the  compensatory  duty 
was  computed  as  follows: 

The  committee  says: 

To  determine  the  amount  of  iwmbursing  specific  duties  which  the  manufacturer 
diould  receive  as  an  equivalent  for  the  proposed  increased  duty  on  wool,  we  must, 
in  the  first  place,  apply  the  rule  adopted  in  the  present  and  preceding  tariff  bills, 
and  multiply  the  proposed  duty  on  the  wool,  11|  cents,  by  four,  the  number  of  pounds 
of  wool  to  a  pound  of  fmished  cloth,  which  would  ^ive  46  cents.  To  this  should  be 
added  the  dutiee  upon  drugs,  dj^stuffs,  and  other  imported  materials,  although  these 
are  provided  for,  in  the  present  tariff  (i.  e.,  the  act  of  1864)imder  the  ad  valorem 
clause.  The  duties  are  estimated,  from  authentic  data,  at  an  average  of  2i  cents  to  a 
pound  of  cloth,  making  the  whole  direct  dutv  on  the  raw  material  48^  cents.  But 
the  manufacturers  are  subject  not  only  to  this  dut>'  directly,  but  to  charges  and  ex- 
penses in  consequence  of  the  duty.  Six  months  at  least  niust  ^apse  from  the  time 
of  pajing  the  duty  on  the  raw  material  before  payment  is  received  for  his  finished 
gO({ds.  lie  is  tlierefore  entitled  to  interest  for  sirraonths  upon  the  whole  duty  upon 
the  raw  material,  which  at  7  per  cent,  the  averas:e  rate  of  mterest,  would  be  3J  per 
cent.  He  is  also  subject  to  charges  for  commissions  on  sales  and  guarantees,  which 
commissions  are  increased  in  amount  in  proportion  to  the  amount  of  the  duty.  The 
average  rate  of  these  commissions,  as  determined  by  reliable  statements,  is  6i  per 
cent.  The  two  items  of  interest  and  commissions  on  sales  and  guarantees  together 
amount  to  10  per  cent  which,  upon  the  whole  duty,  is  4.85  cents,  which  sura  should 
be  added  to  the  direct  duty  on  raw  material  to  fully  reimburse  him. 

• 

The  elements  of  the  specific  dutiee  om  woolen  cloths  and  woolens  wouid  be  as  follows: 

Cents. 

I>utyon4poundsof  wool,  at  11|  cents  per  pound 46.00 

Duty  on  drugs,  dyestiiffs,  etc.,  per  iwund.  of  cloth 2.  50 

Total  duty  on  raw  material. 4S.m 

Charges  for  canying  duty,  at  10  per  cent  on  same 4  85 

Amount  of  reimbursiBg  specific  duti« UsS 

Comfensatory  duties  in  laier  a£ts, — In  the  law  of  1883  the  compen- 
satory duty  on  cloths  was  reduced  from  50  to  35  cents  i>er  pound.  In 
the  laws  of  1890, 1897,  and  1909,  no  effoit  was  made  to  compensate  for 
anything  except  the  wool  used,  i.  e.,  the  compensation  for  dnags  and 
for  carrying  tlie  duties  was  dropped,  and  phraseology  was  adopted 


103 


w|  • 


which  showed  precisely  the  basis  for  the  duties.  Thus,  it  was  stated 
in  the  law  of  1890  that  the  compensatory  duty  on  cloths  valued  over 
40  cents  per  pound  was  "four  times  the  duty  imposed  by  this  act  on  a 
poxmd  of  unwashed  wool  of  the  first  class,"  and  tliis  phraseology  has 
been  followed  ever  since. 

Minimum  compensatory  duties. — ^The  compensatory  duties  are  levied 
on  the  entire  weight  of  the  goods  imported.  It  is  evident  that  if  goods 
contain  wool  shrinking  less  than  75  per  cent  from  greasy  wool  to 
finished  goods,  noil,  shoddy,  wastes,  cotton,  or  other  materials  on 
which  no  compensation  or  aless  compensation  is  necessary  than  on  the 
heavy  shrinking  wools,  the  compensator}^  duty  wiU  be  more  than 
sufficient  to  comoensate  the  domestic  manufacturer  of  goods  similar 
to  those  imported  for  the  material  which  he  was  obliged  to  use.  The 
law  tries  to  remedv  tliis  difficulty  by  a  series  of  minimum  compen- 
satory duties  which  are  adjusted  according  to  the  valuation  of  the 
goods.  The  cheaper  goods  when  imported  pay  a  less  compensatory 
duty.  Thus  in  the  present  law  the  compensatory  rate  of  duty  on 
cloths  valued  at  40  cents  or  less  per  pound  is  reduced  to  three  instead 
of  four  times  the  duty  on  unwashed  wool  of  class  1 ;  the  compensatory 
duty  on  blankets  and  flannels  is  two  and  three  times  the  duty  on 
unwashed  wool  of  class  1,  and  the  duty  on  cotton- warp  dress  goods  is 
7  and  8  instead  of  1 1  cents  per  square  yard.  There  are  also  minimum 
duties  in  the  top  and  3'^arn  paragraphs.  These  reductions  attempt  to 
prevent  the  compensatory  duties  from  containing  more  than  com- 
pensation for  materials  used  in  the  cheaper  goo&,  but,  as  will  be 
sho\\Ti  in  discussiujg  the  separate  paragraph,  the  object  of  the 
reductions  has  only  in  part  been  accomplished. 

The  theory  of  compensatory  duties, — ^For  the  purpose  of  discussing 
generally  the  compensatory  duties  it  is  desirable  to  refer  only  to  the 
4  to  1  ratio,  both  because  it  is  the  most  important  and  because  it  is 
the  best  known.     In  justification  of  the  present  system  of  duties 
it  is  not  claimed  that  it  requires  4  pounds  of  any  grade  of  wool  that 
might  be  used  to  make  a  pound  of  every  finished  fabric,  but  that  it 
requires  4  pounds  of  exceptionally  heavy  shrinking  wool  to  make 
1  pound  of  fine  cloth.     It  is  argued  that  in  order  that  the  whole 
range  of  wools  may  be  open  to  the  American  manufacturer  he  must 
be  compensated  for  the  use  of  the  heaviest  shrinking  wools  and  that 
the  range  of  wools  available  to  the  manufacturer  is  defined  by  the 
compensatory  duty.     Thus,  on  the  4  to  1  basis,  he  in  theory  can 
use  any  wools  which  shrink  as  high  as  75  per  cent,  from  greasy 
woojj'^  finished  goods,  but  if  the  ratio  were  reduced  to  2  to  1,  wliich 
would  be  true  for  some  wools,  he  would  be  restricted  to  wools  slirink- 
mg  50  per  cent,  from  greasy  wool  to  finished  product.     Further- 
more, It  is  said  that,  unless  the  domestic  manufacturer  of  the  fine 
cloths,  m  which  the  heaviest  shrinking  wools  are  used,  is  given  full 
compensation  for  all  the  wool  which  he  must  buy,  he  is  at  a  disad- 
vantage with  liis  foreign  competitor,  who  gets   these  wools  free, 
llie  claim  is  not  that  the  4  to  1  basis  is  necessary  in  all  cases,  but 
f        ^\i.^.*^?^ry  fixes  the  shrinkage  hmit  of  wools  used  in  this  coun- 
rh    ^       l^  theory  these  contentions  are  true,  they  take  no  account 
ot  tlie  fact  that  the  efitort  merely  to  compensate  the  domestic  user  of 
the  heaviest  shrinking  wools  gives  to  the  domestic  user  of  the  fighter 
shrinking  wools  and  wool  substitutes  an  additional  protection  equal 
lo  the  excess  of  the  actual  over  the  necessary  compensation.     This 


Hi 


104 


BEPORT  OF   TARIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


|i 


difficulty  is  inherent  in  any  compensatory  duties  based  on  the 
greasy  weight  of  wool.  They  are  not  only  unequal  in  their  opera- 
tion, but  tney  can  not  be  otherwise.  If  all  wools  shrunk  75  per 
cent  from  greasy  wool  to  finished  cloth,  and  if  all  manufactured 
products  dutiable  under  the  compensatory  duties  were  made  of  all 
wool,  the  basis  of  4  to  1  would  be  a  perfect  system.  But  the  amount 
of  grease  and  dirt  in  wools  varies  from  10  to  70  per  cent,  and  goods 
containing  shoddv,  noils,  waste,  cotton,  and  other  materials  are 
dutiable  under  the  compensatory  provision  of  Schedule  K.  The 
effort  to  provide  by  minimum  compensatory  duties  for  the  presence 
of  wool  substitutes  in  fabrics  dutiable  under  the  schedule  is  only 
partly  successful.  The  duties  on  goods  of  medium  and  low  quality 
virtually  exclude  them  from  the  countr}\  In  justification  of  this 
it  is  said  that  to  allow  these  goods  to  be  imj^orted  would  force  the 
domestic  manufacturer  to  use  poorer  materials  in  order  to  meet 
the  foreign  competition.  These  goods,  however,  are  used  by  certain 
classes  in  the  community  which  can  not  afford  to  purchase  clothing 
in  which  high-classed  materials  are  used,  and  the  domestic  manu- 
facturer must  make  ^oods  to  meet  the  level  of  this  market.  He 
must  use  the  domestic  supply  of  wool  substitutes,  for  the  duties 
on  these  materials  (except  on  cotton)  act  to  exclude  them  from  the 
country.  The  production  of  goods  from  these  materials  is  pro- 
tected by  duties  wliich  secure  completely  the  domestic  market  to  the 
domestic  manufacturer. 

The  compensatory  duties  may  be  explained  in  still  another  wav: 
They  are  the  payment  of  the  duty  on  raw  wool  imported  in  the 
manufactured  form.  Greasy  wool  of  class  1  pays  11  cents  per 
pound  if  imported  in  the  condition  it  was  in  when  it  came  from  the 
sheep's  back;  if  4  pounds  of  this  wool  is  scoured,  spun,  and  woven 
mto  a  pound  of  fabric,  this  pound  when  imported  pays  44  cents  per 
pound  to  cover  the  duty  on  the  wool  contained  therein. 

Paragrapli  376.— TOPS. 

On  combed  wool  or  tops,  made  wholly  or  in  part  of  wool  or  camel's  hair,  valued  at 
not  more  than  twenty  cents  per  pound,  the  duty  per  pound  shall  be  two  and  one- 
fourth  times  the  duty  imposed  by  this  schedule  on  one  pound  of  unwashed  wool  of 
the  first  class;  valued,  at  more  than  twentv  cents  per  pound,  the  duty  per  pound  shall 
be  three  and  one-third  times  the  duty  imposed  by  this  schedule  on  one  pound  of 
unwashed  wool  of  the  first  class;  and  in  addition  thereto,  upon  all  the  foregoing,  thirty 
per  centum  ad  valorem. 

TofS  defined. — ^A  top  is  a  continuous  and  comparatively  thick  strand 
or  rope  of  combed  wool.  The  wool  fibere  in  the  top  are  parallel  and 
are  held  together  merely  by  the  clinging  nature  of  the  wool.  The  wool 
when  it  reaches  the  comb  in  the  manufacturing  process  is  composed 
of  two  parts:  {a)  The  short  fiber  known  as  noils,  (5)  the  longer  fiber 
known  as  top.  The  combing  operation  separates  these  two  materials. 
All  foreign  material  and  tangled  bits  of  wool  are  combed  out,  and  the 
top  emerges  from  tlie  comb  perfectly  clean  and  witJi  the  fibers  more 
or  less  parallel.  Combed  wool  or  top  is  the  first  distinct  product  of 
the  worsted  process.  In  Europe,  especially,  there  are  many  estab- 
lislmients  which  give  their  whole  attention  to  combing  wool  either  on 
commission  or  for  sale. 

Types  of  cmnhs  and  process  of  comhing. — There  are  four  types  of 
combs.    The  French  or  Heilmann  comb  is  suitable  for  combing  the 


• 

i 


Illustration  -.i— Worsted  produrts.—(l)  Top  or  comljed  wool;  (2)  slabbing;  (a)  worsted  roving; 

(4)  worsted  yarn;  (5)  noils;  (6)  carbonized  noils. 


1 


Nt 


INTENTIONAL  SECOND  EXPOSURE 


104 


BEPORT  OF  TAEIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


difFiculty  is  mherent  in  any  compensator}^  duties  based  on  the 
greasy  weidit  of  wool.  They  are  not  only  unequal  in  their  opera- 
tion,'but  uiey  can  not  be  otherwise.  If  all  wools  shrunk  75  per 
cent  from  greasy  wool  to  finished  cloth,  and  if  all  manufactured 
products  dutiable  under  the  compensatory  duties  were  made  of  all 
wool,  the  basis  of  4  to  1  would  be  a  perfect  system.  But  the  amount 
of  grease  and  dirt  in  wools  varies  from  10  to  70  per  cent,  and  goods 
containing  shoddy,  noils,  waste,  cotton,  and  other  materials  are 
dutiable  under  the  compensator}^  provision  of  Schedule  K.  The 
effort  to  provide  by  minimum  compensatory  duties  for  the  presence 
of  wool  substitutes  in  fabrics  dutiable  under  the  schedule  is  only 
partly  successful.  The  duties  on  goods  of  medium  and  low  quality 
virtually  exclude  them  from  the  countr}^  In  justification  of  this 
it  is  said  that  to  allow  these  goods  to  be  imjjorted  would  force  the 
domestic  manufacturer  to  use  poorer  materials  in  order  to  meet 
the  foreign  competition.  These  goods,  however,  are  used  by  certain 
classes  in  the  community  which  can  not  afford  to  purchase  clothing 
in  which  liigli-classed  materials  are  used,  and  the  domestic  manu- 
facturer must  make  goods  to  meet  the  level  of  tliis  market.  He 
must  use  the  domestic  supply  of  wool  substitutes,  for  the  duties 
on  these  materials  (except  on  cotton)  act  to  exclude  them  from  the 
countr}^  The  production  of  goods  from  these  materials  is  pro- 
tected'by  duties  which  secure  completely  the  domestic  market  to  the 
domestic  manufacturer. 

The  compensatory  duties  may  be  explained  in  still  another  wav: 
They  are  the  payment  of  the  '^duty  on  raw  wool  imported  in  the 
manufactured  form.  Greasy  wool*  of  class  1  pays  11  cents  per 
pound  if  imported  in  the  condition  it  was  in  when  it  came  from  the 
sheep's  back;  if  4  pounds  of  this  wool  is  scoured,  spun,  and  woven 
into  a  pound  of  fabric,  this  pound  when  imported  pays  44  cents  per 
pound  to  cover  the  duty  on  the  wool  contained  therein. 

Paragraph  376.— TOPS. 

On  combed  wool  or  tops,  made  wholly  or  iii  part  of  wool  or  camel's  hair,  valued  at 
not  more  than  twenty  cents  per  pound,  the  duty  per  pound  shall  be  two  and  one- 
fourth  times  the  duty  imposed  by  this  schedule  on  one  pound  of  unwashed  wool  of 
the  first  class;  valued  at  more  than  twenty  cents  per  pound,  the  duty  per  pound  shall 
be  three  and  one-third  times  the  duty  imposed  by  this  schedule  on  one  pound  of 
unwashed  wool  of  the  first  class;  and  in  addition  thereto,  upon  all  the  foregoing,  thirty 
per  centum  ad  valorem. 

Tops  defined.— X  top  is  a  continuous  and  comparatively  tliick  strand 
or  rope  of  combed  wool.  The  wool  fibers  in  the  top  are  parallel  and 
are  held  togetlier  merely  by  the  clinging  nature  of  the  wool.  The  wool 
when  it  roaches  the  comb  in  the  manufacturing  process  is  €onii)osed 
of  two  parts:  (a)  The  short  fiber  known  as  noils,  (h)  the  longer  fiber 
known  as  top.  The  combing  operation  separates  these  two  materials. 
All  foreign  material  and  tangled  bits  of  wool  are  combed  out,  and  the 
top  emerges  from  the  comb  perfectly  clean  and  with  tlio  libers  more 
or  less  parallel.  Combed  wool  or  top  is  the  first  distinct  product  of 
the  woisted  process.  In  Europe,  especially,  there  are  many  estab- 
lishments which  give  their  whole  attention  to  combing  wool  either  on 
commission  or  for  sale. 

Types  of  comhs  and  process  of  combing. — There  are  four  types  of 
combs.    The  French  or  Heilmann  comb  is  suitable  for  combuig  the 


\ 


V 


iLnsritvTKt.v  X—Worxlid  proilucts.—d)  Top  or  combed  wool;  (2)  slul)biiif,';  (;i)  worsted  roving; 

(1)  worsted  yarn:  (.".)  noils;  (ti;  carbonized  noils. 


m 


« 


> 


EEPOET  OF   TABIFF  BOAKD   ON   SCHEDULE   K.  105 

i 

very  short  wools,  especially  those  from  South  America.  It  is  used 
extensively  in  France  and  is  naming  in  favor  elsewhere  for  preparing 
soft  yarns  for  dress  goods.  The  square  motion  or  Holden  comb  is 
adapted  to  wools  of  medium  length,  but  it  has  not  been  widely 
adopted.  The  nip  or  Lister  comb  is  used  for  combing  the  long  Eng- 
lish wools,  mohair,  and  alpaca.  The  most  widely  used  comb,  espe- 
cially in  the  United  States,  because  of  its  adaptability  to  the  average 
wools,  is  the  Noble  comb.  This  comb  is  composed  of  three  circular 
combs,  two  smaller  ones  revohdng  inside  the  larger  and  touching  it 
at  two  points.^  Into  the  intersection  of  the  circular  combs,  wliich  are 
all  revolvmg  in  the  same  direction,  the  uncombed  rope  of  wool  is 
pressed  by  means  of  a  brush.  As  the  circles  diverge  the  wool,  now 
embedded  in  the  teeth  of  the  comb,  is  drawn  through  the  teeth  and 
left  protruding  from  the  inside  of  the  large  circle  and  from  the  out- 
side of  the  small  circles.  The  final  operation  collects  these  protruding 
ends  and  draws  them  off  in  a  continuous  more  or  less  parallel  rope  or 
top.  The  short  wool  or  noO,  which  is  removed  from  the  long  fiber,  is 
left  in  the  small  circles  and  from  there  it  is  removed  by  noil  knives 
and  falls  as  waste  under  the  comb. 

Conditioning  of  wool. — Wool  has  a  greater  affinity  for  moisture, 
which  it  absorbs  even  from  the  atmosphere,  than  any  other  textile 
fiber.  This  fact  is  an  important  factor  in  buying  and  selHng  wool, 
tops,  noils,  yarns,  and  cloth  by  weight.  In  such  wool  centers  as 
Bradford,  England,  and  Koubaix,  France,  there  are  official  condition- 
ing houses  to  which  the  wool  is  sent  before  it  is  sold.  There  a  sample 
is  taken  from  the  lot  of  wool  and  baked  bone  dry.  From  this  sample 
the  bone-dry  weight  of  the  lot  is  computed  and  to  the  bone-dry 
weight  the  official  regain  of  moisture  is  added  in  order  to  determine 
the  marketable  weight  of  tlie  wool,  tops,  yarns,  etc.  The  official 
regains  at  Bradford,  England,  are — 

Ppr  cent. 

Wool 16 

Tops,  oil-combed 19 

Top,  dry-combed 18} 

Noils 14 

Yarns 18^^ 

When,  therefore,  a  lot  of  oil-combed  tops  wool  is  to  bo  sold  in 
Bradford,  it  is  sent  first  to  the  conditioning  house;  there  by  actual 
test  the  bone-dry  weight  is  computed  and  to  it  19  per  cent  is  added. 
On  this  weight  the  tops  are  sold  or  commission  charged. 

The  hygi'oscopic  test  or  conditioning  of  wool  products  is  very 
important,  but  up  to  the  present  time  it  has  received  comparatively 
little  attention  in  the  United  States. 

Classijication  and  prices  of  tops. — ^There  are  no  regular  quotations  of 
top  prices  in  the  United  States.  Many  spinning  mflls  make  their  own 
tops  (a  condition  which  is  not  the  rule  abroad),  and  where  they  do 
purchase  tops  it  is  merely  by  private  agreement.  The  classification 
of  tops  for  the  purpose  of  sale  is  based  on  the  quality  of  wool 
from  which  they  were  combed.  Thus,  tops  in  the  United  States 
are  designated,  for  example,  as  "domestic  fine  tops,"  *' domestic 
"half  blood  tops,"  ''domestic  three-eighths  blood  tops,"  ''domestic 
quarter  blood  tops,"  and  "domestic  coarse  tops."  The  same 
classification  is  followed  for  tops  made  from  Australian  or  South 
Ainerican  wool.  Regular  quotations  of  top  prices  are  made  in  cer- 
tain European  centers,  especially  in  Antwerp,  Roubaix,  and  Brad- 


1 1 


106 


BEPORT  OF  TAEIFP  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


REPORT  OP   TARIFF  BOARD  0:5?   SCHEDULE  K, 


107 


ford.  In  the  first  two  places  tops  aro  bought  and  sold  for  future 
deliTery  and  the  prices  are  quoted  as  they  are  in  this  country  on  the 
grain  and  cotton  exchanges.  In  England  tops  are  classified  both 
according  to  the  kind  and  the  count  of  yam  winch  may  be  made  from 
them  Warp  yams,  for  example,  are  commonly  made  from  hogg 
wool  (see  p.  39).  A  top  quoted  as  thirty-twos,  forties,  sixties,  etc., 
will  in  theory  spin  to  yams  of  the  designated  counts.  The  low  quali- 
ties of  tops  are  designated  by  the  lower  counts  and  the  quality 
increases  as  the  count  increases. 

Top  quotations  in  England.— QuotSLiiom  for  tops  of  the  specilied 
qualities  are  presented  m  Table  62.  It  must  be  borne  in  mind  in 
consulting  these  quotations  that  they  are  slightly  higher  than  the 
quotations  for  the  average  top  of  a  given  quality  because  the  source 
from  wliich  the  Yorkshire  Post  and  Bradford  Chamber  of  Commerce 
obtained  them  produces  tops  which  range  in  value  above  the  average. 

Table  Q2.— Quotations  in  England/or  igps, 
[From  Ihe  report  of  the  Bmdford  Chamber  of  Commercc.l 


Qnality. 


1908 


1909 


Thirty-twos 

Thirty-aixes 

Fort-ks 

Forty-sixes 

Filties 

Fifty-sixes 

Fifty-eights 

gixties,  sup^T 

Bixty -fours 

Sevenlies 

Eiglities 


Centaper 

7-24. 8 
15,2-25.9 
l«i2-2t>.9 
19.3-28.9 
28.4-34.0 
31,5-46.6 

*4i.'««i.7' 

43.6-54.2 
47. 7-55. 8 
54. 8-<)0. 8 


CenU  per 
pound. 
20.8-25.4 
21.8-26.4 
23.8-28.4 
2f..^33.0 
33.0-41.6 
38.0-47.7 
44.6-52.7 
4f».t>-56.8 
49.2-57.8 
50. 7-58- 8 
58.8-63.9 


1910 


1911  I 
(January- 
November). 


CenU  per 
pound. 
24.8-27.9 
25.9-28.9 
28.4-^.9 
33.5-35.0 
39.5-43.6 
46. 6-49. 7 
50.2-54.8 
63.7-^58.3 
54. 8-59. 8 
57. 8-62. 9 
C«.  8-^.9 


Cents  per 
pourui. 
24.8-27.4 
25.4-28.4 
25. 4-29. 4 
28. 4-:a  4 
33.5-;i8.5 
39. 5-44.  G 
42.6-48.7 
49.7-^.2 
50. 7-55. 8 
51.7-57.8 
56.8-61.8 


t  Qaotation=J  fir  191 1  from  the  Wool  Record.    Tn  each  ca 
lirty-sixes,  forties,  and  lurty-iixei  were  "prepared     tops. 


Tn  each  case  they  are  for  "ookmial  tops."    Thirty-twos, 


thirt 


No  hard  and  fast  table  of  equivalents  can  be  made  of  the  English 
and  American  temiinologj-  for  top  (and  yam)  quahties.  1  hose  sug- 
eested  by  one  manufacturer  invariably  disagree  with  tliose  suggested 
ly  another.  Wool  varies  so  widely  in  quality,  both  with  tlie  local- 
itv  where  produced  and  with  the  breed  and  condition  of  Uie  sheep 
on  which  otowu,  that  any  comi)arisons  of  qualities  must  bo  approxi- 
mations. The  follo%dng  equivalents,  however  if  taken  with  the 
above  quahfications  will  assist  in  comparing  market  quotations  in  the 
United  States  with  those  in  Great  Britain.  If  anvthmg,  the  Englisli 
equivalents  given  below  are  high  as  compared  with  the  American. 


Enslish. 


Sixty-fours  to  seventies 

Fifty-eights  to  si.xties  > . . . . 
Fifty-twos  to  fifty-sixes. . . 

Forty-twos  to  fifties 

Thirty-sixes  to  forties 


American. 


Fine. 

I  bloocl. 

I  blood. 

I  blood. 

Common  and  braid. 


»  sixties  to  a  standard  for  comparison  of  market  prices. 


Duties  on  tops. — Under  tlie  act  of  1897  tops  were  dutiable  under  the 
soHjalled  "blanket^'  dause  (376  of  tlie  present  act),  under  which  they 
paid  the  same  duty  as  was  levied  on  finished  cloth.  In  the  act  of 
1909  they  were  nmde  dutiable  imder  a  separate  paragraph,  and  the 
duties  fijced  were  as  follows: 

Tops  valued  not  more  than  20  cents  per  pound,  24|  cents  per  pound  and  30  per  cent; 
tops  valued  more  than  20  cents  per  pound,  36f  cents  per  poimd  and  30  per  cent. 

Twenty  cents  per  pound  is  substantially  a  minimum  valuation  for 
tops  abroad.  Only  m  times  of  low  prices  would  tops  of  low  quality 
seU  for  20  cents  or  less.  For  all  practical  purposes  the  minimum 
compensatory  duty  of  24f  cents  per  pound  is  inoperative,  and  such 
tops  as  might  be  imported  pay  the  higher  compensatory  duty  of 
S6§  cents  per  pound.  The  minimum  compensatory  duty  on  tops  is 
based  on  um  tiieory  tliat  2  J  pounds  of  greasy  wool  of  class  1  are  used 
in  making  a  pound  of  top  valued  at  20  cents  or  less;  the  higher  com- 
pensatory duty  on  the  theory  that  3i  pounds  of  greasy  wool  of  class  1 
are  used  in  making  a  pound  of  top  valued  at  over  20  cents.  With  the 
duty  on  greasy  wool  of  class  1  at  1 1  cents  the  compensatory  duties 
are  24 f  and  S6§  cents  per  pound,  respectively.  A  duty  of  36f  cents 
per  pound  would  just  compensate  the  domestic  comber  who  uses 
wools  which  shrink  70  per  cent  in  grease,  noil,  and  waste,  but  the 
worsted  comber  does  not  as  a  rule  use  the  heavy  shrinking  foreign 
wools,  but  the  Hght  shrinking  wools  of  classes  1  aaid  2.  It  is  larg^y 
due  to  the  excess  of  actual  over  necessary  compensation  in  the  rates  on 
tops  that  the  rates  on  them  act  to  prevent  practically  all  importation. 

Imports  of  tops. — ^Under  the  act  of  1894,  when  tops  paid  a  duty 
of  20  per  cent,  there  was  a  reasonable  importation.  In  1896,  when 
raw  wool  was  free,  the  imports  amounted  to  1,147,461  pounds,  valued 
at  $438,417.  Under  the  Dingley  bill,  tops  were  classed  under  the 
so-called  "blanket"  clause,  for  wliich  the  importation  was  practically 
nothing — ^in  1900,  858  pounds;  in  1905,  1,571  pounds.  The  com- 
puted ad  valorem  rate  for  these  respective  amounts  was  90.53  and 
102.78  per  cent.  In  1910,  under  tlie  act  of  1909,  the  importation  of 
tops  amounted  to  only  1,868  pounds,  valued  at  S838.  The  com- 
puted ad  valorem  rate  of  duty  was  111.69  per  cent.  The  whole  of 
this  amount  was  valued  at  over  20  cents  per  pound.  If  we  subtract 
the  protective  ad  valorem  rate  of  30  per  cent  from  the  total  com- 
puted ad  valorem  rate  of  111.69  per  cent,  we  find  that  the  compen- 
satory duty  was  81.69  per  cent  ol  the  value.  In  1911  there  was  no 
importation  of  tops.  It  is  hardly  necessary  to  point  out  that  the 
domestic  comber  is  freed  by  the  duties  from  all  fomgn  competition 
in  the  home  market. 

Production  of  tops. — ^The  number  of  combs  in  the  United  States  in 
1899  was  1,207;  in  1904,  1,322;  and  in  1909,  1,978.  In  the  United 
Kingdom  in  1904  there  were  2,924  combs;  in  1907,  in  Germany,  2,119 
combs ;  and  in  France  there  were,  in  1909,  about  2,000  combs.  While 
the  productive  capacity  is  indicated  by  the  above  figures,  the  quan- 
tity produced  is  not  easily  obtained.  Abroad,  combing  is  a  separate 
industr}^  Manufacturers  have  specialized  in  that  alone  and  now 
they  either  comb  their  own  wool  or  comb  other  wool  on  commission, 
turning  oyer  to  the  spinner  the  top,  noils,  and -waste.  In  this  country 
tms  condition  does  not  prevail  to  anything  like  the  degree  that  it  does 
abroad.  Combing  and  spinnii^,  as  a  rule,  are  carried  on  in  the  same 
establishments  and  tops  are  reduced  to  yam  before  they  enter  the 


If 


-SHI 


IIIBII 


• 


108  BEPOBT  OF   TAKIFF  BOABD   ON   SCHEDULE  K. 

n^arket.    Those  tops  which  are  sdd  arejhe  --^g-^^f- XSf 
t^^SU    t^ST4"d^P  i  ;ar4  the'ame  u.i  in  which 

¥hV;Su^S?St;:  foi  S^ri  ^&  states  in  1904  and  1909 
is  presented  in  Table  63. 


1909 


1904 


Qtiaatity . 
Value 


pounds. 


11.321.279 
$8,027,231 


4.772, 5«2 
12,855,171 


Per  cent  of 
increase. 


137.22 
ISl.  15 


Although  as  ^- W^^V^e  Cen-^^^^ 
3?.!  ?W?oTc£  wa""ln  [909  the  total  ,>roduc£n  o 
wSdVm  m  the  United  States    --^^.f  ^(I^^SleTeTThl 
worsted  n^f  ^d  y«7„'o9  to  Sblf  ^^^  ''^  ""^'^^T  * 

tzhS^^''S''Jo:^Z.^'^^'^^  Kps  .^ado'in  Us  for 

tneir  own  use.  ,i„««.i  t^^  qoIp  in  1009  was  about  71 

The  average  value  of  tj^P«  ^oduc^^  "e  x^^^^^      w       ^^^  ^ 

cents  per  pound.    The  .™^rease  in  lue  piu  r  ^^^^ 

during  the  five-year  period  from  1904  to  IJUJ  was  lo/.      p 
wTniiSntitv  and  181.15  per  cent  in  value.  . 

"^  C  clr^merc.  i.  ^V^.j'^^^ , j-port«  -^^  SS  at^id  po^sition 
certain  leading  countries  is  shown  in  1  able  64.     i  ne  isomi,«    i 
Ke  TMted^States  should  be  particularly  noted. 

Ti^BLE  64.-/mport, andexvon* oJloV'Jor  leadingcounlTU^^ m9  and  1010. 


1909 


Country. 


Imports. 


iQuantity. 


Value. 


Exports. 


1910 


Imports. 


Exports. 


PoMwto. 


253  20 


'Uni'  ''■'S 

Unii.-i  iv.iigdom .      . 

Germany r'lr>tv^ 

fj^ty  "':::::: '16,877,536 

A  ustrKi-Hungary 22, 944. 375 

Russia... z,iw,wio 


D(Man. 


Quantity. 


Ptmndn. 


Value. 


Doter«, 


40,67* 

20,395,4ior2iU:fc,i;.;'f 

»i6,l'24k>3,993,3tK) 
9.4^j7.669 
12,W7.002 
1,094,407 


Quantity. 


Pmknis. 

1,S0S 


3,748 
259.040 


..344 

\) ,  *.''0,848' 

29,710.161 


Value.    (Quantity.     Value. 


45,KJ0,825 

615.745 

2,UHVl6,235..j.'rf> 

138,9l0;24,002,;i02 


Dollars. 

838 

11,' 


Pounds.     Dollars. 


42.129.4tM) 

121,907, 110 

,6,277.045 

3,748 

126,103 


IC,,4>4,720 
10.691,674 
26,158,641 
2.100 

6.S,194 


The  chief  markets  for  the  top  of  theljut.cl 
Germany,  Italy  ^^^^  Japan.^  k  ^^^      her  exp^Us  si     ^^  ^^^^  ^ 
1,521,500  pounds  to  Germany  ^""^J^W'^^^^^    the  Netherlands  it 

lands:  but'  since  t^^.KmHirf^^^^^  '^  ^''  P^^^^ 

is  safe  to  assume  that  the  g^^^^^^^^l^nty  oi  ^"P^^    y  ^j^^  ^his  con- 
had  for  its  ultimato  destmation  Germany.    li-viaeuLe 


EEPOBT  OF  TARIFF   BOAKD   ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


109 


elusion  is  correct  is  found  in  the  fact  that  the  direct  exports  to 
Germany  for  each  year  between  1906  and  1909,  inclusive,  was  over 
11,000,000  pounds  and  in  1906  amounted  to  16,605,300  pounds.  In 
1910  the  United  Kmgdom  exported  to  Sweden  4,749,300  pounds  of 
tops;  to  Italy,  3,517,200  pounds  of  tops,  and  to  Japan,  5,516,800 
pounds  of  tops.  Belgium  and  Germany  are  France^s  chief  markets 
for  tops.  In  1910  Belgium  took  from  her  30,880,273  pounds  and 
Germany  took  13,959,527  pounds.  It  is  probable  that  some  tops 
sent  to  Germany  by  the  United  Kingdom  and  France  have  for  their 
ultimate  destination  Austria-Hungary,  Russia,  and  Italy.  In  gen- 
eral, Table  64  shows  that  the  United  Kingdom  and  France  are  doing 
a  large  part  of  the  combing  for  the  rest  of  Europe.  As  far  as  Germany 
is  concerned,  hoAvever,  this  condition  is  rapidly  coming  to  an  end  and 
she  is  developing  her  own  combing  industry. 

Paragraph  376.—"  BASKET  "  CLAUSE. 

Wool  and  hair  which  have  been  advanced  in  any  manner  or  by  any  j)roce8s  of  manu- 
facture beyond  the  washed  or  scoured  condition,  not  specially  provided  for  in  thia 
section,  shall  be  subject  to  the  same  duties  as  are  imposed  upon  manufactures  of  wool 
not  specially  provided  for  in  this  section. 

Chief  materials  dutiahle  under  376. — Paragraph  376  provides  that 
wool  and  hair  advanced  in  any  manner  or  by  any  process  of  manu- 
facture beyond  the  washed  or  scoured  condition  not  specially  pro- 
vided for  in  other  paragraphs  in  the  schedule  shall  be  dutiable  at  the 
rates  of  paragraph  378.  Tops  were  dutiable  under  this  section  in 
the  act  01  1897,  out  are  provided  for  in  paragraph  375  of  the  present 
act.^  The  chief  materials  dutiable  under  paragraph  376  are  car- 
bonized wool,  carded  wool,  slubbing,  and  roving.  These  are  wool 
advanced  beyond  the  scoured  state  and  not  provided  for  elsewhere 
in  the  schedule. 

Carhonized  wool. — Wool  which  is  burry  or  full  of  other  vegetable 
mxaterial  is  sometimes  carbonized,  i.  e.,  subjected  to  a  bath  of  sul- 
phuric or  similar  acid  which  reduces  the  vegetable  material  to  carbon. 
This  process  is  particularly  necessary  in  case  of  certain  wSouth  Ameri- 
can wool,  whicn  contains  the  so-called  Mestiza  burr.  This  burr,  if 
left  in  the  wool,  will  open  out  into  threadlike  form  on  the  cards  and 
be  carried  through  all  the  processes  until  it  shows  as  a  defect  in  the 
dyehouse.  Carbonized  wool  can  hardly  be  classed  as  a  manufactured 
product. 

Carded  wool, — Carded  wool  is  the  product  of  the  process  which 
immediately  follows  scouring  and  which  in  the  carded  woolen  industry 
immediately  precedes  condensing  and  in  the  worsted  immediately 
precedes  combing  (except  where  backwashing  intervenes).  Carding 
was  first  done  by  hand  cards  covered  with  nne  teeth  by  means  of 
which  the  locks  of  wool  were  teased  out  and  disentangled.  The  same 
result  is  now  produced  by  machinery.  The  machine,  known  as  a 
card,  is  a  series  of  revolving  cylinders  covered  with  a  clothing  of  fine 
vertical  wires.  The  wool  is  carried  along  on  certain  of  these  cylinders 
while  others  which  work  into  the  former  catch  the  locks  of  wool  and 
disentangle  them.  As  the  wool  passes  through  the  card  it  becomes 
more  and  more  uniform  in  structure  until  when  it  leaves  the  final 
cylinder  it  is  in  a  uniform  gauzelike  sheet  in  which  the  wool  fibers 
cross  and  recross  in  every  direction.  This  sheet  of  wool  is  then  either 
condensed  into  one  thick  strand  or  into  numerous  small  pithlike 
strands  of  wool  called  carded  woolen  rovings.    In  the  carded  woolen 


J&..JL\if 


REPORr  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


REPORT  OF   TARIFF   BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE   K. 


Ill 


process  these  rovings  nre  taken  directly  from  the  caxd  to  the  spinning 
room.  There  is  here  no  process  corresponding  to  drawing  in  the 
worsted  husiness. 

Process  of  drawing. — ^The  process  of  drawing  is  &  sort  of  preliminary 
spinning.  The  wool  enters  the  drawing  room  in  the  form  of  the 
comparatively  thick  top  or  strand  of  combed  wool.  The  purpose  of 
drawing  is  to  reduce  this  top  to  a  thin  sliver  or  roving  so  small  that 
it  can  D3  conveniently  spun  into  a  thread.  This  is  accomplished, 
first,  by  elongating,  and,  secondly,  by  doubling,  the  former  bemg 
intended  to  reduce  the  size  of  the  sliver,  the  latter  to  prevent  uneven- 
ness  in  it.  When  the  wool  sliver  (in  the  English  drawing  system)  has 
imparted  to  it  a  slight  twist  for  the  purpose  of  preventing  breakage 
and  slipping,  it  is  called  a  slubbing.  Further  elongation,  doubling, 
and  twisting  reduces  the  slubbing  to  a  worsted  roving. 

Systems  of  drawing, — There  are  three  distinct  systems  of  drawing, 
viz:  the  open  drawing,  cone  draifving,  and  French  drawing.  The  dis- 
tinction between  open  and  cone  drawing  is  higliljr  technical.  In  the 
open  drawing  system  the  bobbin  is  loose  on  the  spindle  and  the  wind- 
ing of  the  wool  shver  onto  the  bobbin  is  accxjmplLshed  through  the 
lagging  of  the  bobbin.  This  system,  therefore,  due  to  the  strain 
placed  on  the  wool,  is  adapted  only  to  strong  wool.  In  the  cone 
drawing  system,  which  is  adapted  to  drawing  weaker  and  shorter 
wools,  the  spindle  is  positivelv  driven,  and  this  nermits  the  use  of 
larger  bobbins  and  the  speed  of  the  spindle  is  regulated  as  the  bobbm 
fills.  The  cone  system  is  in  favor,  since  it  g^ves  greater  production, 
both  because  of  the  size  of  the  bobbins  and  because  of  the  greater 
speed;  and  since  the  roving  produced  by  it  has  less  twist,  it  is  there- 
fore softer.  The  distinffiiisnmg  feature  of  French  drawing  is  the  fact 
that  no  twist  is  imparted  to  the  wool,  and  by  the  use  of  a  spme-covered 
wheel,  called  the  porcupine,  the  openness  of  the  fiber  is  preserved 
dovm  to  the  roving.  French  drawing  is  adapted  to  prq)armg  short 
staple  wools  for  spinning  soft  dress  goods  and  hosiery  yarns.  The 
more  generid  use  of  the  open  and  cone  drawing  in  England  and  of  the 
French  drawing  in  Franco  explains  to  some  extent  the  supremacy  of 
the  former  in  tlie  hard-woven  goods  and  the  supremacy  of  the  latter 
in  soft  dress  goods,  although  both  systems  are  used  in  both  countries. 

Rate  of  duty  and  imports.— The  duties  as  fixed  by  paraCTaph  376  on 
carbonized  wool,  carded  wool,  slubbing,  roving,  and  similar  producta 
advanced  beyond  the  washed  and  scoured  state  and  not  specifically 
provided  for  m  other  paragraphs  are  duties  of  paragraph  378.  They 
are  ais  follows: 

Valued  nofc  more  than  40  cents  per  potind ,  33  cents  per  pound  and  50  per  cent;  valued 
above  40  and  not  above  70  cents  per  pound,  44  centa  per  pound  and  50  per  centi 

valued  over  70  cents  per  pound,  44  cents  per  pound  and  55  per  cent. 

These  duties  are  obviously  the  result  of  oversight  and  could  not  be 
intended  in  any  logical  scheme  of  tariff  rates.  They  levy  on  wool 
products  less  advanced  in  manufacturing  than  yarn  the  same  duties 
that  are  levied  on  finished  cloth.  If  imported  they  woidd  be  subject, 
if  valued  over  40  cents  per  pound,  firat,  to  a  compensatory  duty  based 
on  the  assumption  that  four  pounds  of  creasy  wool  of  cLiss  1  were  used 
in  tbeir  making,  and,  secondly,  to  an  ad  valorem  duty  of  60  or  55  per 
cent,  the  purpose  of  which  is  to  protect  the  labor  and  capital  employed 
in  making  the  most  advanced  of  wool  products.  It  is  needless  to  say 
that  the  rates  act  to  prevent  all  but  a  very  small  importation. 


I* 


I 


The  total  imports  under  paragraph  376  are  presented  in  Table  65. 

Table  65. — ImporU  of  wool  and  hair  advanced  in  any  manner,  or  by  any  proems  q^ 
mani^acturey  beyond  the  washed  or  scoured  mndition,  not  specially  jjrovvdedfor. 


Quantity. 

Value. 

TlcTtnue 
derived. 

Ad  valorem 
rate  of 

duly  (com- 
puted). 

Fiscal  year  ending  June  30— 

1900       - 

Fouvdx. 
858 
1,571 

124 

$1,056 

1,439 

291 

130 

1956 

1,479 

252 

m 

90.53 

loni; 

102.78 

IQIQ 

86.59 

1911 

90.00 

Paragraph  377.— YABNS. 

On  yams  made  wholly  or  in  part  of  wool,  valued  at  not  more  than  thirty  cents  per 
pound,  the  duty  per  pound  sliall  be  two  and  one-half  times  the  duty  imposed  by  this 
section  on  one  pound  of  unwashed  wool  of  the  first  class,  and  in  addition  thereto  thirty- 
five  per  centum  ad  valorem*  valued  at  more  than  thirty  cents  per  pound,  the  duty 
per  pound  shall  be  three  and  ooe-half  times  the  duty  impoeed  by  this  section  on  one 
pound  of  unwashed  wool  of  the  j&rst  class,  and  in  addition  thereto  forty  per  centum  ad 
valorem. 

Kinds  of  yam. — Yam  may  be  said  to  be  a  fully  drawn  and  twisted 
roving.  In  wool  manufactures  the  fundamental  distinction  between 
yams  is  the  distinction  between  worsted  yam  and  woolen  yarn. 
(See  illustration  4.)  Tlio  former  is  made  from  wool  which  has  been 
combed  and  drawn,  and  for  this  reason  the  fibers  m  it  lie  more  or  less 
parallel;  the  latter  is  made  from  wool  wliich  has  been  carded  only, 
and  the  fibers  of  wool  therefore  are  mixed  and  interlaced  indiscrimi- 
nately. As  compared  with  woolen  yam,  wliich  is  rough  and  shaggy, 
the  worsted  yarn  is  smooth  and  comparatively  strong.  Woolen 
yams  have  a  fullness  of  appearance  and  softness  of  handle  wliich  do 
not  characterize  the  woreted  yarn.  In  the  distinction  between  woolen 
and  worsted  yams  rests  the  distinction  between  worsted  products 
and  carded  woolen  products.  Thus,  worsted  yarns  are  adapted  to 
making  smooth-faced,  light  fabrics,  which  may  be,  but  wliich  are  not 
generally,  fulled,  wMle  woolen  yarn  is  adapted  to  making  rough,  heavy, 
fulled  goods.  Merino  yam  is  a  carded  woolen  or  worsted  yarn  made  m 
part  of  cotton.  The  term  '^merino"  has  no  connection  whatever 
with  the  wool  from  the  sheep  of  that  name. 

Woolen  mule  spinrdng.  — ^In  the  carded- woolen  process  the  pithlike 
roving  is  taken  directly  from  the  condenser,  attached  to  the  card,  to 
the  spinning  **mule.''  The  mule  consists  of  a  permanent  frame  on 
which  tlie  spools  of  rovings  are  placed.  To  and  from  this  frame  runs 
a  carriage  containing  a  series  of  spindles.  The  operation  of  spinning 
begins  with  the  carriage  in  contact  wth  the  frame.  The  roving 
passes  between  a  pair  of  rollers  and  is  fastened  to  one  of  the  spindles. 
Tlie  carriage  then  begins  to  move  away  from  the  permanent  frame 
and  as  it  docs  so  the  rovmg  is  fed  out.  When  the  carriage  has  tra- 
verped  about  one-third  or  more  of  the  distance,  the  rollers  stop 
delivering  roving.  The  carriage  moves  the  remainder  of  the  distance 
and  in  doing  so  draws  or  drafts  and  twists  the  yarn  into  the  required 
Mze.  The  snindle  draft,  as  this  operation  is  called,  gives  the  yam  a 
desirable  fullness  and  softness.  As  the  carriage  moves  back  in  order 
to  repeat  the  operation,  the  finished  yarn  is  wound  on  bobbins. 


Hi 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF   BOABD   ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


113 


11 ' 

lllf  1 
I 


112 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOABB  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


Worsted  mule  spinning.— Worsted  mule  spmnmg  is  the  complement 
of  the  French  drawing  process.  (See  p.  1 10.).  It  will  be  remembered 
that  in  that  system  of  drawing  no  twist  is  imparted  to  the  rovmg. 
This  roving  is  dra^vn  out  into  a  yam,  not  by  the  spindle  draft,  as  in 
the  woolen  mule,  but  between  two  pairs  of  roUcrs  at  the  back  of  tlie 
mule,  the  front  pair  traveling  faster  than  the  back  roUer.     JNo  twist 


\ 


^7;;t>. 


1 


2 


IixtTSTRATioN  4.-The  basis  of  the  difference  ^t^^;^  carded 
woolon  and  worsted  goods.  ( ^ ).  Warded  vvooUm  yarn  sbow- 
ing  the  indiscrimmato  interlacing  of  the  wool  fl»erf.  v2) 
worsted  yarn  showing  the  fibers  more  or  less  paraUel  and 

•  the  twist 

is  inserted  in  the  yarn  untd  it  has  passed  the  rollers.  ,^^1^^/^^!  m^^^^^ 
spiiming  has  two  advantages— firet,  short  weak  wools  which  could 
not  staf d  the  strain  of  frame  spinning  can  be  spun  mo  worsted  y^^^^^ 
and,  secondly,  the  worsted  yam  nroJucedon  ^^^^^^^^^^^ 
loftiness  and  softness  which,  makes  it  weU  adapted  to  makmg  solt 
dress  goods  and  knitted  fabrics. 


Worsted  frame  spinning. — There  are  three  other  methods  for  spin- 
ning worsted  yarns,  known  collectively  as  frame  or  English  spinning. 
The  operations  in  frame  spinning  are,  first,  the  drafting  or  drawing 
out  the  roving  to  the  desired  count  of  yarn.  This  is  accomplished  by 
the  use  of  two  sets  of  rollers,  the  front  traveling  faster  than  the  back, 
and  by  means  of  these  the  parallel  fibers  of  the  roving  are  shpped  on 
each  other  until  the  roving  is  reduced  to  the  yarn  size.     In  the  second 

Elace  a  twist  is  imparted  to  the  yarn,  and  finally  it  is  wound  on  the 
obbins.  The  three  methods  of  frame  spinning  are  the  flyer,  the  cap, 
and  the  ring.  The  flyer  frame  is  comparatively  slow  of  production, 
but  due  to  tne  way  in  which  the  wool  goes  onto  the  bobbin  a  peculiar 
smoothness  is  imparted  to  the  yarn.  This  makes  it  particularly 
adapted  to  spinning  long  luster  English  wools,  hairs,  and  crossbred 
wools.  In  cap  spinning  the  spindle  and  cap  are  stationary.  A  tube 
on  the  stationan''  spindle  carries  the  boboin,  and  the  winding  of 
the  yarn  on  the  bobbin  is  only  due  to  its  retardation  in  revolutions 
while  passing  around  the  edge  of  the  stationary  cap.  The  speed  to 
which  these  tubes  can  be  run  on  the  stationary  spindle  is  very  great. 
For  this  reason  it  is  popular  in  the  United  States,  since  it  gives  a  large 
production.  It  produces,  however,  because  of  the  great  centrifugal 
force,  a  rougher  yarn.  It  is  best  adapted  to  the  finer  crossbred  and 
merino  yarns.  The  ring  frame  is  practically  universal  in  the  cotton 
industry,  but  used  to  some  extent  in  making  softer  and  smoother 
worsted  yarns  than  are  produced  by  the  cap  spindle. 

Classijlcation  of  yams. — Yarns  are  classified  according  to  their  size, 
the  units  of  measure  being  variously  known  in  the  Umted  States  as 
'*run,"  ''cut,"  and  "count."  The  run  is  used  in  the  United  States 
(except  in  and  near  Philadelphia)  to  designate  the  size  of  woolen 
yarns;  1,600  yards  of  1-run  yarn  weighs  1  pound,  3,200  yards  of 
2-run  yarn  weighs  1  pound,  4,800  yards  of  3-run  yam  weighs  1  pound, 
etc.  The  number  ojf  yards  in  a  pound  of  woolen  yarn  is  always  1,600 
times  the  number  of  the  run.  Obviously,  the  coarser  the  yam  the 
lower  the  number  of  the  mn.  A  1  or  2  run  yam  is  coarse  and  used 
in  overcoatings,  blankets,  and  cotton-warp  goods  where  all  the  weight 
is  furnished  by  the  filling;  3 J  to  4  run  yams  are  medium  yams;  and 
6i  to  8  run  yarns  are  fine. 

In  Philadelphia  the  cut  system  is  used  for  measuring  the  size  of 
woolen  yams;  300  yards  of  1-cut  yarn  weighs  1  pound;  600  yards  of 
2-cut  yarn  weighs  1  pound;  900  yards  of  3-cut  yarn  weighs  1  pound, 
etc.  The  number  or  yards  in  a  pound  of  woolen  yam  is  always  300 
times  the  number  of  the  cut.  It  therefore  follows  that  yarns  of  low 
cuts  are  coarser  and  that  the  yarn  increases  in  fineness  as  the  cut 
increases.  A  5-cut  yarn  is  coarse;  18  to  21  cut  yarn  is  medium; 
and  30  to  35  cut  yam  is  fine. 

The  count  system  is  used  universally  in  the  United  States  and  the 
United  Kingdom  for  measuring  worsted  yarns;  560  yards  of  No.  1 
worsted  yarn  weighs  1  pound;  32  times  560  yards  of  No,  32  worsted 
yarn  weighs  1  pound ;  60  times  560  yards  of  No.  60  worsted  yam  weighs 
1  pound,  etc.  The  low  counts  of  worsted  yam  are  seldom  quoted 
on  the  market.  They  are,  in  fact,  roving  yams,  and  when  used  at 
all  are  used  in  knitting  very  heavy  worsted  sweaters.  No.  30  (writ- 
ten 30's>  to  40's  are  comparatively  coarse  yarns;  forties  to  fifty-sixes 
are  medium;   and  sixties  up  as  high  as  one-hundreds  are  fine  yams. 

32080°— H.  Doc.  342,  62-2,  vol  1 8 


-jcx^'iiiiiiimiiiiiHMiM 


114 


BEPOET  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


Sixties  is  the  standard  worsted  yam  and  can  be  made  of  wool  known 
in  the  United  States  as  good  half-blood  wool.  Counts  above  eighties 
are  infrequent.  When  two  sixties  yams  are  twisted  together  the 
yam  is  designated  as  2/60's  (two-sixties).  In  the  same  way  there 
are  two-forty-eights,  two-eighties,  four-fifty-sixes,  etc.  Worsted 
yams  are  sold  either  by  weight  or  by  gross  hanks  (a  hank  being  560 
yards  of  yam).  Remembering  that  1  pound  of  yarn  is  equal  to 
660  yards  times  the  coimt,  if  we  divide  the  number  of  hanks  (144) 
by  the  count  of  yam,  we  obtain  the  number  of  pounds  in  the  gross. 

Quotations  in  England  for  worsted  and  hair  yams  are  presented  in 
able  66.    All  quotations  per  gross  have  been  reduced  to  quotations 
per  pound. 

Tablb  66.  —Quotations  in  England  for  wonted  and  hair  tfamt, 
[From  report  of  Bradlord  Chamber  of  Commerce  aad  the  Wool  Record.) 


Quality. 


Worsteds: 

Two-thirty-twos,  worsted 

Two-forties,  worsted 

Thirties,  super  luster 

Thirties,  super  demi 

Thirty-sixes,  super  demi 

Thirty-sixes,  demi 

Single  sixties,  botany 

Two-forties,  botany  white 

Two-forty-eiehts,  botany 

Two-sixties,  botany  white 

Ifohairs  and  alpacas! 

Two-thirty-twoe,  mohair  plush 

Two-thirty-twos,  mohair  low  quality. 

Two-forties,  mohair  medium 

Stagle  twenty-eights,  alpaca 

Single  twenty-eights,  alpaca  low 


1906 


Cts.perU>. 
27.1-38.5 
32.4-44.6 
38.0-48.2 
25.4-40.6 


33.  5-47. 2 
60.  .»^73. 5 


61.»-76.0 


AiHAI 


di.perlb. 

38.6-47.7 
38.0-43.1 
31.7-41.8 
87.3-47.2 


64.6-74.8 
65.9-76.0 


1910 


Ch.perlb. 
39.5-43.6 
48.7-52.7 
43. 1-46. 1 
41.8-44.4 
47.2-50.2 


73.6-83.7 


71.0-77.1 
75.0-«l.l 

66.ft-67.9 
66.8-58.8 
83. 1-85. 2 
66.8-59.2 
48.5-49.7 


1911 


(January- 
November.) 


Cta.perlb. 
37.0-43.8 
46.6-52.7 
44.4-46.9 
89.9-45.0 


47.9-51.2 
7L  0-76.1 


69.0-76.1 
77.1-82.1 

63.9-66.9 
56.8-58.8 
86. 2-87. 2 
52.1-58.6 
43.»-48.5 


Duties  on  yam. — The  duties  on  yarns  made  wholly  or  in  part  of 
wool  are: 

Valued  not  more  tliaii  30  cento  per  pound,  27J  cento  per  pound  and  35  per  cent. 
Valued  more  than  30  cento  per  pound,  38i  cento  per  pound  and  40  per  cent. 

Yarns  are  classified  for  duty  purposes  into  those  valued  at  30  cents 
or  less  per  pound  and  those  valued  over  30  cents  per  pound.  Yarns 
selling  m  low  as  30  cents  or  less  per  pound  abroad  are  in  practically 
every  case  carded  woolen  yams  into  the  composition  of  which  shoddy, 
n^ils,  waste,  and  cotton  have  gone.  Any  all-wool  or  all-worsted  yam 
purchased  abroad  would  be  dutiable  under  the  higher  duty.  The 
specific  duties  on  yams  are  said  simply  to  compensate  the  domestic 
manufacturer  for  the  material  which  he  puts  into  domestic  yarns. 
It  is  assumed  that  in  yarn  similar  to  that  valued  at  30  or  less  cents 
abroad  the  domestic  manufacturer  will  use  materials  on  which  he 
w^ould  have  to  pay  duty  equal  to  ''two  and  on^half  times"  the  duty 
on  greasy  class  1  wool,  or  27J  cents;  and  that  in  yarns  valued  over 
30  cents  per  pound  abroad  he  will  have  to  use  materials  on  which  he 
would  have  to  pay  duty  equal  to  "three  and  one-half  times"  the  duty 
on  class  1  wool,  or  38i  cents.  The  ad  valorem  duties  in  each  case 
are  intended  to  protect  the  labor  and  capital  invested  in  producing 
yams  in  the  Umted  States. 


) 


*  n 


EEPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDUIiE   K. 


115 


Imports  of  yam,  191 L — ^The  imports  of  yarns  of  all  kinds  into  the 
United  States  for  the  fiscal  year  ending  Juno  30,  1911,  are  presented 
in  Table  67.  The  imports  for  this  year  are  comparatively  small, 
due  to  uncertainties  in  the  industry. 

Table  67  — Imports  of  yams  into  the  United  States  during  the  fiscal  year  ending  June  SO, 

1911. 


Made  wholly  or  in  part  of  wool: 

Valued  not  more  than  30  cents  per 

pound 

Valued  more  than  30  cents  per 

pound 


Total  yams. 


Kate  of  duty. 


Cents 
per 
•pound. 
27J 

38^ 


Perct. 
35 

40 


Quantity. 


Pounds. 
35.75 

177,489.73 


177,525.48 


Value. 


18.62 

186,645.41 


186,654.03 


Revenue 
derived. 


S12.86 
142,991.88 


143,004.74 


Ad  valorem 
rate  (com- 
puted). 


149. 19 
76.61 


76.61 


Yams  valued  at  SO  cents  or  less  per  pound, — ^As  appears  in  Table  67 
(and  also  in  the  imports  of  yarn  for  1909  and  19*10)  the  computed  ad 
valorem  rate  on  yarns  imported  valued  at  30  cents  or  less  per  pound 
is  substantially  twice  the  computed  ad  valorem  rate  on  yarns 
imported  valued  over  30  cents  per  pound.  Tliis  discrimination 
against  low-grade  yarns  is  due  to  the  fact  that  the  compensatory 
duties  exceed  the  amount  necessary  for  compensation.  If  we  sub- 
tract the  protective  ad  valorem  rates  of  35  and  40  per  cent  from 
the  computed  ad  valorem  rates,  we  find  that  the  compensatory  duty 
on  low-grade  yarns  imported  in  1911  amounted  to  114.19  per  cent, 
while  the  compensatory  duty  on  yarns  imported  in  1911  valued  over 
30  cents  per  pound  was  36.61  per  cent.  The  excess  of  the  actual  over 
necessary  compensation  is  the  reason  why  the  importation  of  yarns 
valued  at  30  cents  or  less  per  pound  is  negligible.  A  glance  at  the 
rates  themselves  explains  the  unequal  operation  of  the  compensatory 
duties.  The  liighest  priced  yarn  that  can  be  imported  under  the 
minimum  provision  of  the  yarn  paragraph  is  30  cents  per  pound. 
The  compensatory  rate  of  27i  cents  per  pound  is  91§  per  cent  of  this 
maximum  value,  and  would  of  course  be  higher  on  cheaper  yarns. 
In  addition  to  this  duty,  the  cheaper  yarns  pay  an  ad  valorem  rate 
of  35  per  cent  of  their  value.  The  average  value  of  yarn  per  pound 
imported  in  1909  was  26  cents;  in  1910,  22  cents;  and  in  1911,  24 
cents. 

Yams  valued  over  30  cents  per  pound. — Importation  even  of  yams 
valued  over  30  cents  per  pound  where  there  is  no  upward  liioit  of 
valuation  is  also  insignificant  (359,761  pounds  in  1910  and  177,490 
pounds  in  1911).  The  amounts  are  given  here,  not  because  they  are 
of  much  importance  to  the  domestic  industry,  but  to  show  the  restric- 
tive character  of  the  duties.  The  yarns  imported  amount  to  less  than 
a  tenth  of  1  per  cent  of  the  yarns  consumed  in  this  country.  Those 
which  are  imported  are  special  yarns  with  a  high  valuation,  and  can 
hardly  be  said  to  compete  with  the  domestic  product.  The  aver- 
age value  of  yarns  valued  over  30  cents  per  pound  imported  into 
the  United  States  in  1909  was  82  cents;  m  1910,  91  cents:  and  in 
1911,  $1.05. 


If 


t 


I 


116 


EEPOKT  OF   TAEIFF  BOABD  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


The  compensatory  duty  on  these  yarns  is  based  on  the  assumption 
that  the  domestic  manufacturer  uses  3i  pounds  of  greaser  wool  of 
class  1  in  making  a  pound  of  like  yarn,  and  that  the  pnce  ot  im 
wool  is  enhanced  tlie  whole  amount  of  the  duty  on  wool.  If  all 
wool  shrunk  7  If  per  cent  from  greasy  wool  to  yarn,  the  compen- 
sation would  be  perfect,  but  since  the  worsted  manufacturers  use 
the  foreign  light-shrinking  wools,  the  compensatory  duty  even  on 
yarns  valued  over  30  cents  exceeds  the  compensation  actually 
necessary.  The  whole  duty  on  yarns  valued  over  30  cents  imported 
in  1909  was  86.77  per  cent  of  flieir  value;  in  1910,  82.38  per  cent 
of  their  value;  and  in  1911,  76.61  per  cent  of  then-  value.  But 
if  their  value  had  been  the  average  value  of  yarns  produced  m 
the  United  States,  the  computed  ad  valorem  rates  would  be  consid- 
erably higher.  The  fact  is  that  the  duties  on  varus  virtually  ex- 
clude from  the  country  all  but  special  and  very  highest-class  yarns, 
and  the  consumption  of  these  is  comparatively  limited. 

Imports  of  yarns  for  representative  years.— The  imports  of  yarns  mU> 
the  United  States  for  certain  representative  years  is  shown  m  Table  68. 
It  must  be  remembered  in  consulting  this  table  that  all  but  a  small 
amount  of  the  yarn  reported  for  1900,  1905,  1910,  and  1911  is  valued 
over  30  cents  per  pound,  and  that  the  computed  ad  valorem  rates 
of  duty  are  measures  of  the  duties  on  the  highest  grade  of  yam,  not  on 
yams  valued  at  30  cents  or  less  per  pound. 

Table  68.— Jmporto  of  yam  entered  for  conmmptwn  into  the  United  Statet, 


Fiscal  yBM  andlng  June  30— 


18961. 
IflOO.. 
1905.. 
1910. . 
1011.. 


Qnantlty. 


Pounds. 
1,995,902 
172,988 
187, 676 
359,888 
177,525 


Value. 


$1,031,077 
115,985 
133,721 
326,886 
186,654 


Revenue 
derived. 


$397,541 
112,887 
125,276 
269,296 
143,005 


Ad  valorem 
rate  of  dutv 
(computed). 


38.56 
97.33 
93.68 
82.38 
76.61 


1  Under  the  Wilson  blU,  when  there  was  no  compensatory  duty. 

The  imports  of  yam,  by  countries,  into  the  United  States  for  repre- 
sentative years  is  shown  m  table  69. 

Table  %^  .—Importa  of  yams  of  wool,  by  countries,  entered  for  immediaU  consumption 

and  for  warehouse,  into  the  United  States. 


1806 

1900 

1905 

1909^1 

Country  of  origin. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Belcrium 

Pounds. 

26,380 

326,660 

478,404 

169,685 

1,021,570 

310 

$9,565 
137,869 
279,735 

78,911 

544,495 

146 

Pounds. 

8 

2,056 

147,063 

2,830 

32,875 

430 

S4 

1,677 

102.376 

2,368 

23,042 

221 

Pounds. 
2,068 
13,908- 
118, 170 

11,828 
11, 193 
84,694 

Pounds. 

2 

70,965 

173, 490 

2,723 

36,627 

686 

n 

67,295 

136,976 

2,367 

"Franc©              

Ciermanv 

Switzerland 

United  Kingdom 

Other  countries 

48,388 
677 

31,633 

388 

27,659 
406 

1  Included  in  "All  other  xnaaulacturea  of"  after  IflOft. 


BEPORT  OF   TAEIFF  BOABD   ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


117 


SpindUs  producing  woolen  yam, — ^The  productive  capacity  of  the 
important  woolen  yarn  producing  countries  is  shown  in  Table  70. 

Table  70. — Number  of  woolen-producing  spindles  in  specified  countries.^ 


Country. 


United  States 

United  Kingdom. 

Germany 

France 

Belgium 


Number. 


1,785,205 

2, 707, 147 

1,956.342 

684,619 

274,210 


1  Includes  only  spindles  reported  for  woolen  and  worsted  mills. 

Production  of  woolen  yam  in  the  United  States. — The  census  of  1910 
reported  for  the  first  time  the  amount  of  woolen  yam  made  in  mills 
for  their  own  use.  Prior  to  this  time  we  only  have  a  record  of 
woolen  yarn  made  for  sale.  The  woolen  yarn  reported  for  1909  in 
the  two  tables  which  immediately  follow  represent  the  productive 
capacity  of  the  woolen  spindles  of  the  United  States  for  that  year. 

Some  mills,  which  are  classed  as  worsted  mills  because  their  prod- 
ucts are  primarily  worsteds,  make  some  woolen  yarn.  The  carded 
woolen  yarn  produced  in  these  mills,  including  a  small  amount  of 
worsted  mixed  yarn  not  reported  separately,  is  shown  in  Table  71. 

Table  71. — Production  of  woolen  yam  in  worsted  mills  in  the  United  States,  1899  and 

1909. 


1909 

1899 

Per  cent  of 
increase. 

Made  for  sale: 

Woolen  yam,  all  wool- 
Pounds 

6,432,729 
12,108,800 

3,827,647 
13,537,141 

10,743,304 
1,163,759 

3,556,375 
$1,052,508 

2,537,303 
$1,903,639 

80  88 

Value 

100  36 

Woolen  or  worsted  yam,  nnion  or  merino — 

Poimds 

10  8S 

Value 

85.81 

Made  in  mill  for  use  therein: 

Woolen  yam,  pounds 

Woolen  or  worsted  yarn,  union  or  merino,  pounds 

By  far  the  largest  percentage  of  carded  woolen  yarn  produced  in 
the  United  States  is  naturally  produced  in  woolen  mills.  The 
amount  produced  in  1899  and  1909  is  presented  in  Table  72. 

Tabi^e  72. — Production  of  woolen  yam  in  woolen  mills  in  the  United  States,  1899  and 

1909. 


Made  for  sale: 

Woolen  yam,  all  wool- 
Pounds  

Value ...iy.[[""[  [ 

Woolen  or  worsted  yam ,  union  or  merino^ 

Pounds 

Value 

Made  in  mill  for  use  therein: 

Woolen  yarn,  pounds 

Woolen  or  worsted  yam,  union  or  merino*  pounds 


1909 


22,087,764 
$5,396,612 

10,183,715 
$2,129,087 

80,761,458 
30,124,141 


1899 


29,143,476 
$5,752,118 

13,437,264 
$2,764,486 


Per  cent  of 
decrease. 


24  21 
6.18 

24.21 
22.98 


118 


BEPOET  OF  TABIFF  BOAKD  OF  gCHEDUIiE  K. 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD   ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


119 


I 


The  total  amount  of  all-wool  woolen  yam,  produced  for  sale  by  the 
woolen  and  worsted  industries,  as  shown  by  Tables  71  and  72,  was 
28,520,493  pounds  in  1909,  valued  at  $7,505,412,  as  compared  with 
32,699,851  pounds  in  1899,  valued  at  $6,804,626.  As  will  be  seen, 
the  average  value  per  pound  of  this  yam  is  comparatively  low,  being 
26  cents  m  1909  and  21  cents  in  1899.  A  large  part  of  it  contains 
cattle  and  like  animal  hair  and  wool  substitutes  and  is  produced 
largely  by  those  mills  which  spin  carpet  yams.  While  no  doubt  some 
of  these  yams  produced  for  sale  find  their  way  into  cheap  cloth, 
woolen  mills,  as  a  rule,  do  not  purchase  their  yams  but  make  them  in 
the  mills  where  they  are  woven  into  fabrics.  The  total  amount  of 
all-wool  woolen  yam  produced  in  1909  by  woolen  and  worsted  mills 
for  their  own  use  was  91,504,762  pounds.  This  does  not  include  the 
woolen  and  worsted  yams  made  m  part  of  cotton  produced  m  these 
mills,  which  in  1909  amounted  to  31,287,900  pounc^. 

Woolen  yam  produced  in  United  Kingdom, — In  1907  the  United 
Kingdom  is  reported  as  producms  62,225,000  pounds  of  woolen  yarn, 
valued  at  $11,747,731.  All  duplications  were  eliminated  from  the 
census  of  the  United  Kingdom  and,  for  that  reason,  this  figure  is 
much  smaller  than  the  production  of  her  spindles.  This  figure  cor- 
responds somewhat  to  woolen  yams  produced  for  sale  m  the  industry 
in  the  United  States,  but,  as  here,  so  m  the  United  Kingdom,  the  large 
percentage  of  woolen  yams  are  made  in  woolen  mills  for  their  own 
use  and  the  above  figure  is  only  a  relatively  small  part  of  the  produc- 
tion of  woolen  spindles  in  the  United  Kingdom. 

Production  o^ woolen  yam  in  France,— The  production  of  woolen 
yam  in  France  is  presented  in  Table  73,  on  the  authority  of  M.  Georg 
Seydoux,  of  Paris.  Mr.  Seydoux  kindly  furnished  these  figures  to 
the  Tariff  Board  in  August,  1911.  They  were  subsequently  pub- 
lished in  the  "  Rapport  de  la  Commission  Permanente  des  Valeurs  de 
Douane"  of  France  for  1911,  which  goes  far  to  confirm  their  value. 

Table  7Z.— Woolen  yams  produced  in  France  in  1910. 
[From  M.  Oeorg  Seydoux,  Paris.] 


Table  74. — Imports  and  exports  of  woolen  yam  for  leading  countries  in  1909  and  1910, 


Locality. 


Total 

Fourmies,  Cambresis,  Avesnes,  Alsne 
Roubaix,  Tourcoing 

Ardennes 

Seine-Inferieure,  Eure 

Somme 

Mame 

Territoire  de  Belfort 

Mazamet 

Vlenne 

Chateauroiir 

Lavelanet 

Miscellaneous  departments 


Quantity. 


Pounds. 
82,117,000 


1. 
12, 
11, 
12, 

4, 

20, 
9, 
1. 
2, 
4, 


058,000 
346,000 
574,000 
842,000 
302,000 
762,000 
339,000 
494,000 
037,000 
940,000 
485,000 
938,000 


Value. 


129,975,000 


371,000 
4,323,000 
5,373,000 
6,183,000 

146,000 
1,668,000 

118,000 
4,918,000 
2,175,000 
1,248,000 
1,523,000 
1,729,000 


Commerce  of  leading  countries  in  woolen  yams, — Table  74  presents 
the  imports  and  exports  of  woolen  yam  for  certain  leading  countries. 
The  large  imports  of  the  United  Kingdom  find  their  complement  in 
the  exports  of  Belgium.  In  1910  the  United  Kingdom  imported  from 
Belgium  15,679,287  pounds  of  woolen  yam. 


i.'l 


1909 

1910 

Country. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

1 
United  States.. 

Pounds. 
i 299,254 

123,985,703 

3,134,500 

541,670 

208,077 

22,266 

1,733,036 
2,059,381 

IS246,339 

111,879,214 

1,341,844 

253,751 

82,392 

10,509 

741,439 
1,075,389 

Pouni^. 

Pounds. 
1359,888 

»  26,540, 953 

3, 450, 199 

559,968 

239, 761 

14,991 

1,939,607 
3,375,805 

> 1326,886 

« 12,876,506 

1,558,424 

267,498 

98,828 

6,913 

1,052,713 
1,669,403 

Pounds. 

United    King- 
dom 

2,488,300 

1,078,711 

1,409,842 

18,337,885 

68,784 

118,387 

$1,155,906 

441,014 

•550,291 

7,235,416 

31,492 

40,830 

4,053,700 

940,262 

1,030,430 

20,954,192 

42,328 

255,513 

11,864,332 

381,990 

381,947 

8,632,782 

23,380 

92  735 

Germany 

France 

Belgium 

Itajy 

Austria  -  Hun- 
ear  v  

Canada 

>  Including  small  amount  of  worsted  yams. 

«  Not  including  626,580  pounds  of  woolen  and  worsted  yam,  not  separately  itemized,  valued  at  $419,604, 
used  for  other  purposes  than  weaving. 

Spindles  producing  worsted  yam, — ^The  productive  capacity  of  im- 
portant worsted-yam  producing  countries  is  shown  in  Table  75. 

Table  75. — Number  of  worsted-prodvxdng  spindles  in  specified  countries.^ 


Country. 


United  States 

United  Kingdom . 

Germany 

France 

Belgium 


Number. 


1,655,400 
2,844,412 
2,263,364 
1,997,196 
288,876 


I  Includes  only  spindles  reported  for  worsted  and  woolen  mills. 

Production  of  worsted  yam  in  the  United  States, — Prior  to  the  census 
of  1910  worsted  tops  and  worsted  yams  produced  for  sale  were  re- 
ported together  and  worsted  yam  produced  for  use  in  mills  where 
produced  was  not  reported  at  all.  Table  76,  however,  presents 
worsted  yams  and  tops  produced  for  sale  in  1899  and  1909  and  in 
addition  the  amount  of  worsted  yams  produced  in  1909  in  worsted 
mills  for  their  own  use. 


Table  76.- 


-Productix>n  of  worsted  yam  {including  some  tops  made  for  sale)  in  the  worsted 
industry  of  the  United  States,  1899  and  1909. 


1909 

1899 

Made  for  sale: 

Worsted  yam- 
Pounds 

87,900,953 
$80,051,612 

11,321,279 
$8,027,231 

76,457,382 

Value 

Worsted  tops  and  Blubbing— 

Pounds 

.   141,659,360 
$29,358,066 

Value 

Made  in  mm  for  use  therein: 

Worsted  yam,  pounds 

C) 

iPoundo. 


a  figures  not  available. 


120 


BEPORT  OP  TABU-F  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


REPORT  OF  TABIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


121 


■t 


I 


If 


The  average  value  per  pound  of  worsted  yam  produced  for  sale  in 
the  worsted  industry  in  1909,  as  shown  in  Table  76,  was  91  cents. 
The  total  production  of  worsted  yam  in  1909,  counting  both  that 
made  for  sale  and  that  made  in  the  mills  for  their  own  use,  was 
164,358,335  pounds.  Woolen  mills  also  made  3,097,658  pounds  of 
worsted  yam  for  their  own  use. 

Worsted  yam  ^produced  in  the  United  Kingdom, — In  1907  the  census 
of  the  United  Kmgdom  reported  159,940,000  pounds  of  worsted  yam 

Sroduced,  valued  at  $78,146,257,  which  shows  an  average  value  of  a 
ttle  over  49  cents  per  pound.  This  figure  is  also  free  from  duphca- 
tions  and  corresponds  somewhat  to  worsted  yam  produced  for  sale  in 
the  United  States.  It  does  not  include  yam  woven  into  fabrics  where 
produced. 

Production  of  worsted  yam  in  France. — Table  77  presents  the  pro- 
duction of  worsted  yam  in  France,  by  Departments,  on  the  authority 
of  M.  Georg  Seydoux,  of  Paris.  Mr.  Seydoux  kindly  furnished  these 
statistics  o!  production  to  the  Tariff  Board  in  August,  1911.  They 
were  subsequently  published  in  the  "Rapport  de  la  Commission  Per- 
manente  des  Valeurs  de  Douane"  of  France  for  1911,  which  goes  far 
to  confirm  their  value. 

Table  77. — Worsted  yams  produced  in  France  in  1910, 
[From  M.  Oeorg  Seydoux,  Paris.] 


Locality. 


Total 

Fommfes,  Cambresis,  Avesoes,  Alsne 

Roubaix 

Tourcoing 

Seine-Inferieure 

Euro,  8omme,  Pas  de  Calais 

Mame 

Territoire  de  Belfort 

IfisoeHaoeous  Departments 


Quantity. 


PountU. 
110,076,000 


Value. 


$67,455,000 


50,276,000 

17,012,000 

26,223.000 

351,000 

6,732,000 

8,377,000 

866,000 

1,239,000 


30,810,000 

10,425,000 

16,069,000 

215,000 

3,513,000 

6,134,000 

630,000 

760,000 


Commerce  of  leading  countries  in  worsted  yam. — The  imports  and 
exports  of  worsted  yams  for  certain  leading  foreign  countries  are  pre- 
sented in  Table  78.  The  United  Kingdom  and  France  are  the 
important  exporting  countries.  Germany  is  by  far  the  most  impor- 
tant market  lor  the  United  Kingdom.  France  exports  worsted  yam 
chiefly  to  the  United  Kingdom,  Belgium,  and  Germany.  Austria- 
Hungary,  Russia,  aad  Sweden  are  Germany's  chief  markets.  The 
increasiug  export  of  worsted  yam  from  the  United  Kingdom  and 
France  indicates  that  the  countries  which  were  once  their  markets 
for  fimished  cloth  are  now  developing  their  own  weaving  industry.  ^ 


L 


Table  78. Imparts  and  exports  of  worsted  yams  for  leading  countries  in  1909  and  1910. 


1909 

1910 

Country. 

Tinports. 

Exports. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Quantity. 

Value.    .Quantity. 

Value. 

United  States 

Pounds. 
1299,254 

11246,339 

Pounds. 

Pounds. 

1359,888 

2  378,939 

2,-550,722 

1,644,808 

1,320,114 

15,073,512 

36,284,850 

11326,886 

2  308,551 

1,457,922 

933,297 

973,874 

9,508,438 

17,708,390 

Pounds. 

TTnitpd  Kin^doiU  . 

55,772,866 

19,411,062 

3,571,249 

325,399 

3,882,080 

17,326,392 

12,781 

$57,263,298 

11,991,363 

2, 157, 173 

231,150 

2,180,363 

11,782,904 

1736 

63,840,000 
24,290,283 

3,958,930 
657,543 

3,852,759 
21,100,888 

$30,006,026 

yjanoe      

2,737,672 

1,733,360 

1,303,360 

12,280,604 

38,788,835 

» 14, 038, 707 

1,567,363 

982,828 

969.855 

7,419,212 

18,004,700 

18,568,599 

13,503,245 

Beleium 

2,389,880 

Italy          

416,901 

Austria-Hungary  . 
Geniiany 

2,279,123 
15,510,698 

Russia  .    

» Includes  woolen  yams. 

f  Not  including  626,580  pounds  of  woolen  and  worsted  yam,  not  separately  itemized,  valued  at  $419,604, 
used  for  other  purposes  than  weaving. 

Mohair,  alpaca,  and  other  hair  yams. — Yams  made  from  mohair, 
alpaca,  and  like  hairs  are  dutiable  under  paragraph  377.  They  are 
not  reported  separatelv  in  the  imports  of  the  united  States.  It  is 
more  than  probable  that  none  are  imported,  for,  due  to  the  light 
shrinkage  of  hairs,  the  compensatory  duties  are  higher  than  necessary 
and  act  to  prevent  their  importation.  A  small  amount  of  mohair  and 
alpaca  yarns  are  produced  m  the  United  States.  The  census  of  1905 
reported  1,058,748  pounds  of  mohair  yarn,  valued  at  $820,357,  pro- 
duced for  sale.  It  is  probable  that  in  some  miUs  where  hair  yams  are 
produced  they  are  made  up  into  dress  goods  and  therefore  do  not 
appear  in  the  statistics.  The  United  Kingdom  is  the  most  important 
producer  of  these,  for  she  holds  a  preeminent  place  in  the  production 
of  dress  goods  in  which  hair  yarns  are  used.  In  1907  she  produced, 
in  addition  to  the  amount  woven  into  fabrics  in  the  mills  where  pro- 
duced, 20,316,000  pounds  of  mohair  and  alpaca  yarns,  valuea  at 
$11,494,673.     (See  prices  of  hair  yarns  on  p.  114.) 

Commerce  of  hading  countries  in  hair  yams. — The  imports  and 
exports  of  hair  yams  for  certain  leading  foreign  countries  are  pre- 
sented in  Table  79.  Here  again  Germany  is  the  most  important 
market  for  the  United  Kingdom;  the  former^s  imports  are  largely  the 
latter's  exports. 

Table  79. — Imports  and  exports  of  yams  made  of  mohair,  alpaca,  and  like  hair,  for 

leading  countries  in  1909  and  1910. 


1909 

1910 

Country. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Tmi)orts. 

Exiwrts, 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

United  Kingdom. . . 

Pounds. 

Pounds. 

16,808,800 

150,354 

1,179 

1271,166 

120,062 

$9,372,086 

84,252 

320 

181,926 

12,476 

Pounds. 

Pounds. 

17,372,100 

115,080 

10,992 

>  231,483 

> 19,400 

$10,655,124 

64,023 

2,957 

154,796 

10,808 

Gennany 

Belgium 

11,434,158 
162,371 

1  4,198,220 
1 1,722,234 

$8,348,088 

45,010 

2,666,788 

1,070,554 

10,939,005 
156. 758 

1  4,646,635 

2  2,030,657 

$8,267,168 

42,816 

2,934,165 

1,135,998 

Austria-Hungary. . 
France 

1  Includes  a  small  amount  of  camel's-hair  yam. 


s  Moliair  only. 


122 


EEPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOABI>  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


BEPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE   K. 


123 


if  j 


Paragraph  378.— CLOTHS,  KNIT  FABRICS,  AND  UNSPECIFIED  MANU- 
FACTURES OF  WOOL. 

On  cloths,  knit  fabrics,  and  all  manufactures  of  every  description  made  wholly  or 
in  part  of  wool,  not  specially  provided  for  in  this  section,  valued  at  not  more  than 
forty  cents  per  pound,  the  duty  per  pound  shall  be  three  times  the  duty  imposed 
by  this  section  on  a  pound  of  unwashed  wool  of  the  first  class;  valued  at  above  forty 
cents  per  pound  and  not  above  seventy  cents  per  pound,  the  duty  per  pound  shall 
be  four  times  the  duty  imposed  by  this  section  on  one  pound  of  unwasned  wool  of 
the  first  class,  and  in  addition  thereto,  upon  all  the  foregoing,  fifty  per  centum  ad 
valorem;  valued  at  over  seventy  cents  per  pound,  the  duty  per  pound  shall  be  four 
times  the  duty  imposed  by  this  section  on  one  pound  of  unwashed  wool  of  the  first 
class  and  fifty-five  per  centum  ad  valorem. 

Manufactures  of  wool  dutiable  under  paragraph  378  will  be  consid- 
ered under  four  heads:  (a)  Woolen  and  worsted  cloth,  (h)  Knit  fab- 
rics, not  wearing  apparel,  (c)  Plushes  and  other  pile  fabrics,  and  (d) 
All  other  unspecified  manufactures  made  wholly  or  in  part  of  wool. 
Parasraph  378  is  in  many  respects  the  most  important  paragraph  in 
Scheaule  K  dealing  with  manufactures.  In  the  nrst  place,  it  protects 
a  larger  amount  of  capital  and  labor  in  the  United  States  than  any 
other  paragraph;  secondly,  the  most  famihar  and  extensive  applica- 
tion of  the  compensatory  duties  is  found  in  it;  and,  thirdly,  the  autiea 
levied  under  it  are,  by  virtue  of  provisions  in  paragraphs  376,  379, 
380,  and  381,  applicable  to  certam  manufactures  under  these  para- 
graphs. 

WOOLEN   AND   WORSTED  CLOTH. 

Nature  of  woolen  and  worsted  fabrics. — ^The  term  cloth  is  specifically 
applied  to  heavy  goods  made  from  carded  woolen  yam  butinpara- 
OTaph  378  it  is  used  in  the  popular  sense  of  fabric.  It  covers  all 
fabrics  made  by  interfacing  or  weaving  together  yams  made  wholly 
or  in  part  of  wool  or  worsted,  except  those  specincally  provided  for 
in  other  paragraphs  of  the  tariff  act.  These  are  classified  generally 
as  woolen  cloths  and  worsted  fabrics.  Woolen  cloths  are  made  from 
yam  produced  by  the  carded  woolen  process.  They  are  fulled  and 
shrunk  in  the  finishing  room,  which  obliterates  the  weave  and  leaves 
the  surface  of  the  cloth  uniformly  rough.  Typical  woolens  are 
broadcloths,  beavers,  meltons,  kerseys,  tweeds,  cheviots,  doeskins, 
and  cassimeres.  Worsted  fabrics  are  made  from  yarn  produced  by 
combing,  drawing,  and  frame  or  French  mule  spinning.  Except 
when  the  fabrics  are  given  a  rough  surface  by  the  process  of  gigging 
in  the  finishing  room,  these  fabrics  are  smooth  and  the  weave  is 
visible.  Clay  and  unfinished  worsteds  and  serges  are  typical  plain 
worsteds  and,  in  addition,  there  are  those  known  as  fancies  where 
the  pattern  is  developed  by  weave  and  colored  yam.  These  are  the 
most  costly  to  produce. 

Process  of  weaning. — ^The  yam  which  mns  parallel  with  the  length 
of  a  fabric  is  called  the  "warp;"  the  yam  which  crosses  the  warp  at 
right  angles  is  called  the  '  Veft "  or  '  'filling."  Weaving  is  the  process 
of  interlacing,  according  to  some  fixed  plan,  the  warp  and  filhng 
yarns.  Weaving  consists  of  three  distinct  operations,  shedding, 
picking,  and  beating  up.  Shedding  is  the  dividing  of  the  warp 
threads  so  that  the  filling  yam  may  pass  between.  Picking  is  the 
throwing  of  the  shuttle  bearing  the  filling  yarn  through  the  opening 
made  by  the  shedding  motion.  Beating  up  is  pressing  home  into  the 
body  of  the  woven  cloth  the  filling  yam,  called  a  pick.    The  control 


of  the  shedding  motion  determines  the  particular  weave  of  the  cloth 
and  leads  into  the  highly  technical  subject  of  designing  fabrics. 
The  weave  of  a  fabric  is  one  of  its  distinguishing  features.  Weaves 
are  as  numerous  as  the  combinations  which  can  be  made  of  warp 
and  weft  threads.  The  most  simple  is  the  plain  weave,  which  is  the 
simple  interlacing  of  the  weft  with  every  other  warp  yam.  The 
twin  weave  is  a  simple  variation  from  the  plain  weave.  Here  the 
first  filling  yarn  passes  over  one  and  under  two  of  the  warp  threads. 
The  next  filhng  yarn  takes  a  set  obhque  to  the  former  by  throwing 
up  one  of  those  depressed  by  the  former  filling  yarns.  This  form  of 
weaving  produces  diagonal  lines  in  the  cloth.  The  cassimere  or 
shalloon  twill  is  one  of  the  most  useful  weaves.  In  it  each  warp  yam 
passes  over  two  pick  yams  and  each  pick  yain  flushes  two  warp  yams. 
It  is  referred  to  as  the  "two  up  and  two  down"  weave.  There  are 
many  other  weaves  used  to  produce  desired  effects  in  fabrics.  They 
vary  from  the  plain  weave  in  simphcity  to  the  weaves  of  the  Jacquard 
loom  in  complexity. 

Duties  of  woolen  and  worsted  fabrics, — The  rates  of  duty  on  woolen 
and  worsted  fabrics  imported  into  the  United  States  are  as  follows: 

Valued  not  more  than  40  cents  per  pound,  33  cents  per  pound  and  50  per  cent. 
Valued  more  than  40  and  not  more  than  70  cents  per  pound,  44  cents  per  pound  and 
50  per  cent. 

Valued  above  70  cents  per  pound,  44  cents  per  pound  and  55  per  cent. 

Fabrics  valued  abroad  at  40  cents  or  less  per  pound  are  fabrics  in 
the  making  of  which  wool  substitutes  and  cotton  have  been  used. 
Great  quantities  of  these  goods  are  made  abroad,  especially  in  Eng- 
land, from  shoddy,  noils,  waste,  and  a  small  percentage  of  wool. 
They  are  the  clothing  of  the  poorer  classes.  The  compensatory  rate 
of  33  cents  on  these  goods  assumes  that  the  domestic  manufacturer 
who  makes  similar  goods  has  the  raw  material  which  he  uses  in  each 
pound  of  fabric  enhanced  in  price  by  the  tariff  33  cents,  i.  e.,  "  three 
times  the  duty  imposed  by  this  section  on  a  pound  of  unwashed  wool 
of  the  first  class.  The  compensatory  rate  of  44  cents  on  fabrics 
valued  over  40  cents  per  pound  assumes  that  the  domestic  manufac- 
turer of  these  fabrics  has  the  price  of  his  raw  material  in  each  pound 
of  product  enhanced  in  price  by  the  tariff  44  cents,  i.  e.,  "four  times 
the  duty  imposed  by  this  section  on  1  pound  of  unwashed  wool  of 
the  first  class.''  All  fabrics  valued  at  70  cents  or  less  per  pound  are 
subject,  when  imported,  to  a  protective  duty  of  50  per  cent  in  addi- 
tion to  the  compensatory  duty;  fabrics  valued  over  70  cents  pay  a 
protective  duty  of  55  per  cent — ^larger  than  the  duty  on  cheaper 
fabrics,  for  the  reason  tnat  more  labor  and  capital  are  expendea  in 
their  making. 

Imports  of  woolen  and  worsted  clothj  1911. — The  imports  of  woolen 
and  worsted  cloth  into  the  United  States  for  the  fiscal  year  ending 
June  30,  1911,  are  presented  in  Table  80. 


ii 


124 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFE  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


EEPORT  OF  TABIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


126 


'i  I 


II   » 


ti    I 


If 


Table  m.— Imports  ofcUdhs,  woolen  or  -timsted,  into  the  United  States  during  the  fiscal 

year  ending  June  SO,  1911. 


Clotbs,  woolen  or  wwsted. 

Rate  of  duty. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Revenue 
derived. 

Ad  valo- 
rem rate 
(com- 
puted). 

Valued  not  more  than  40  cents 

per  pound. 
Valued  more  than  40  and  not 

more  than  70 cents  per  pound. 
Valued  above   70  cents   per 

pound. 
Valued  above  70  cents  per 

pound    (recim-ocity    treaty 

with  Cuba). 

33  cents  per  pound 
plus  50  per  cent. 

44  cents  per  pound 
plus  50  per  cent. 

44  cents  per  pound 
plus  55  per  cent. 

44cents  per  pound 
plus  56  per  cent, 
minus20  percent. 

Poufxft. 
7,738.75 

353,937.80 

4,461,846.53 

30.00 

$2,564.40 

211,275.75 

5,012,657.92 

53.00 

13,835.98 

261,370.47 

4,720,174.60 

33.88 

149.59 

123.71 

94.17 

63.92 

Total  cloths,  woolen  or 

4,823.553.08 

6,226,561.07 

4,985,414.93 

95.39 

worsted. 

Duties  on  fabrics  valued  at  40  cents  or  less  per  pound. — ^The  most 
noticeable  fact  shown  in  Table  80  is  that  the  cheaper  the  goods  the 
higher  the  duty.  The  law  was  framed  so  that  this  condition  would 
result,  ostensibly  in  order  to  prevent  the  importation  of  goods  made 
of  shoddy  and  other  wool  substitutes,  it  being  said  that  the  American 
people  needed  protection  against  these  goo(£,  and  that  if  they  were 
imported  the  domestic  manufacturer  would  be  forced  to  use  cheaper 
materials  in  order  to  meet  foreign  competition.  In  addition  to  the 
objection  to  sumptuary  legislation,  fabrics  made  from  wool  substi- 
tutes are  not  necessarily  undesirable,  as  is  claimed.  They  meet  a 
market  demand  which  is  fixed  by  the  amount  the  purchaser  is  able  to 
pay,  and  the  real  question  is,  not  whether  they  snail  be  used  in  the 
United  States,  but  who  shall  produce  them.  It  is  the  excess  of  actual 
over  necessary  compensation  on  these  goods  which  acts  to  exclude 
them  from  the  United  States.  This  is  clearly  shown  if  we  take  the 
computed  ad  valorem  rates  in  Table  80  and  subtract  therefrom  the 
protective  ad  valorem  rates.  This  shows  that  in  1911  the  compen- 
satory duty  on  goods  valued  at  40  cents  or  less  per  pound  was  99.59 
per  cent  of  their  value;  on  goods  valued  over  40  and  not  more  than  70 
cents  per  pound,  73.71  per  cent  of  their  value;  and  on  goods  valued 
over  70  cents  per  pound,  only  39.17  per  cent  of  their  value. 

The  compensatory  rate  on  the  cheaper  goods  is  made  33  cents 
instead  of  44  cents  in  the  present  law  in  an  effort  to  adjust  the  duties 
to  the  materials  used  in  these  goods.  The  maximum  value  of  goods 
dutiable  under  this  provision  is  40  cents  per  pound.  It  follows,  there- 
fore, that  the  very  least  compensatory  duty  that  can  be  levied  must 
be  82.5  per  cent  of  the  value  of  the  goods.  The  average  value  per 
pound  of  goods  valued  at  40  cents  or  less  per  pound  imported  in  1910 
was  35  cents  and  in  191 1,  33  cents.  Only  a  negligible  quantity  of  these 
fabrics  are  imported.  The  price  of  raw  materialused  oy  the  domestic 
manufacturer  in  one  pound  of  similar  goods  is  by  no  means  enhanced 
by  the  tariff  33  cent»  over  the  price  paid  by  his  foreign  competitor, 
and  in  so  far  as  it  is  not  he  received  additional  protection  in  the 
so-called  compensatory  duty. 

Duties  on  fabrics  valued  over  Ifi  cerds  per  pound. — The  compensatorv 
duty  on  fabrics  valued  over  40  cents  per  pound  is  44  cents  per  pound. 
This  duty,  which  is  four  times  the  auty  on  greasy  wool  of  the  first 
class,  is  based  on  the  theory  that  four  pounds  of  this  wool  is  used  by 


the  domestic  manufacturer  in  every  pound  of  fabric  produced  which 
competes  with  imported  fabrics  valued  over  40  cents  per  pound,  and 
it  also  assumes  that  the  price  of  the  wool,  because  of  the  tariff,  is  1 1 
cents  higher  per  pound  to  the  domestic  manufacturer  than  to  his 
foreign  competitor.  If  all  wools  lost  75  per  cent  from  greasy  wool  to 
cloth,  this  4  to  1  ratio  would  be  perfect  as  a  basis  for  compensation, 
but  only  in  making  the  best  fabrics  from  heavy-shrinking  wools  is  so 
much  compensation  necessary.  Cotton  mixea  woolens,  cotton  warp 
worsted,  in  fact,  the  majority  of  woolen  and  worsted  fabrics  made  in 
the  United  States,  do  not  require  compensation  equal  to  four  times 
the  duty  on  class  1  wool.  The  average  price  per  pound  of  fabrics 
valued  over  40  and  not  over  70  cents  per  pound  imported  in  1910  and 
1911  was  60  cents.  The  average  pnce  per  pound  of  fabrics  valued 
over  70  cents  per  pound  imported  in  1910  was  $1.07  and  in  1911,  $1.12. 
The  only  fabrics  imported  m  any  quantity  into  the  United  States  are 
those  valued  over  70  cents  per  pound.  There  being  no  maximum 
value  in  this  class  of  goods,  the  best  are  imported.  But  even  here  the 
whole  duty  paid  in  1911  was  94.92  per  cent  of  the  value  of  the  goods 
imported. 

Imports  of  woolen  and  worsted  fabrics  for  representative  years  into  the 
United  States. — The  imports  of  woolen  and  worsted  cloth  into  the 
United  States  (substantially  all  of  which,  except  in  1896,  under  the 
Wilson  bill,  was  valued  over  70  cents  per  pound)  are  shown  in  Table 
81.  The  imports  for  1896  are  greater  because  in  the  act  of  August  27, 
1894,  there  were  no  compensatory  rates,  but  only  the  ad  valorem  rates 
were  in  operation. 

Table  81* — Imports  of  woolen  and  worsted  cloth  entered  for  consumption  into  the  United 

States. 


Fiscal  year  ending  June  30— 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Revenue 
derived. 

Ad  valorem 
rate  of  duty 
(computed). 

1896  1 

Pounds. 
32,257,886 
4,860,777 
3,630,424 
5,897,630 
4,823,553 

$20,037,898 
4,925,345 
3,878,802 
6, 104, 140 
5,226,551 

$9,646,354 
4,818,040 
3,722,067 
5,937,754 
4,985,415 

4R  14 

1900 

07  82 

1905 

95  96 

1910 

07  27 

1911 

95  39 

1  Under  the  Wilson  bill. 


Imports  of  cloths,  by  countries, — The  imports  of  cloths  of  wool  into 
the  United  States  is  shown,  by  countries,  in  Table  82.  The  United 
Kingdom  appears  as  the  leadmg  importing  country.  The  average 
value  per  pound  of  her  imports  is  much  higher  in  1900,  1905,  1910, 
and  1911  than  under  the  lower  duties  of  1896. 


126 


EEPOKT  OF  TAEIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


Table  82. — Imports  of  cloths  of  wool,  by  countries,  entered  for  immediate  consumption 

and  for  warehouse  into  the  United  States. 


Country  of  origin. 


AiBtria-Hungary 

Belgium 

France 

Germany 

United  Kingdom. 

Canada 

Other  countries.. 


1896 


Quantity. 


Pound$. 

172,650 

636,326 

640,522 

3,033,590 

32,249,886 

39,176 

9,422 


Value. 


tl57,863 

547,500 

620,220 

2,584,464 

17,937,401 

31,800 

7,580 


1900 


Quantity. 


Pounds. 

62,1Mj1 

140,925 

142,434 

1,082,582 

3,481,591 

8,404 

5,209 


Value. 


$56,898 

127,538 

190,594 

1,080,429 

3,660,501 

8,053 

5,516 


1906 


Quantity. 


Pounds. 

154,425 

213, 117 

168,569 

1,182,397 

2,018,114 

7,115 

2,960 


Value. 


«135,70S 

204,976 

212.572 

1,129,925 

2,282,936 

7,857 

3,088 


Country  of  origin. 


Austria-Hungary 

Belgium 

France 

Germany 

United  iCingdom, 

Canada 

Other  countries.. 


1910 


1911 


Quantity. 


Value. 


Pounds. 

308,753 

633,101 

115,406 

1,718,263 

3,432,399 

19,530 

5,338 


t293,594 

624,656 

138,272 

1,585,997 

3,754,961 

21,642 

6,542 


Quantity. 


Pounds. 

171,560 

517,616 

97,970 

1,013,456 

2,904.863 

17,369 

4,545 


Value. 


1163,329 

560,642 

136,826 

994,671 

3,258,426 

20,796 

7,817 


Power  looms  in  leading  countries. — ^There  are  no  figures  which  would 
show  just  the  per  cent  of  the  looms  in  the  woolen  and  worsted  indus- 
tries of  different  countries  running  on  the  heavier  woolens  and  worsted 
class,  under  paragraph  378,  as  distinguished  from  the  per  cent  running 
on  dress  goods,  blankets,  etc.,  dutiable  under  paragraphs  379,  380, 
and  381,  but  the  total  number  of  looms  in  the  woolen  and  worsted 
industries  gives  a  basis  for  comparing  productive  capacity.  The 
number  of  power  looms  in  the  specified  countries  is  given  in  Table  83. 

Table  83. — Number  of  looms  in  woolen  and  worsted  industries  of  specified  countries. 


Country. 


United  States 

United  Kingdom.. 

Oemiany 

France 


Number. 


72,185 
103.082 
»  95, 841 
«55,000 


» Approximately  one-fourth  of  these  are  hand  looms. 
«  Power  looms  only.    Hand  looms  not  reported. 

Hand  looms  are  still  of  some  importance  in  parts  of  France  and 
Germany,  but  they  are  declining  in  competition  with  power  looms 
and  the  factory  system.  Within  recent  years  the  improvement  in 
the  transmission  of  electric  power  has  led  to  the  use  of  this  power  in 
the  cottages  where  the  looms  were  formerly  propelled  by  hand. 

Production  of  worsted  fabrics  in  the  United  States. — In  1909  there 
were  324  establishments,  with  an  aggregate  capital  of  $295,057,923, 
producing  worsted  goods.  In  these  establishments  the  average 
number  of  wage  earners  was  111,248;  the  wages  paid,  $47,151,871; 
the  materials  used  were  valued  at  $207,786,936,  and  the  total  value 
of  products  was  $312,624,663.* 

>  For  further  particulars  of  the  worsted  industry,  see  p.  219. 


BEPOBT  OF  TAEIFF  BOAKD  ON  SCHEDULE   K. 


127 


The  production  of  all-worsted  fabrics  for  men's  wear  in  the  United 
States  (a  small  part  of  which  were  produced  in  mills  classed  as  woolen 
mills)  is  shown  in  Table  84. 

Table  84. — Production  of  all-worsted  fabrics  for  men''s  wear  in  the  United  States  ^ 

1899  and  1909. 


Worsted  coatings,  serges,  and  suitings  for  men's  wear: 

Square  yards 

Value 

Worsted  overcoatings  and  cloaldngs  for  men's  and  women's 
wear: 

Square  yards 

Value 


1900 

1899 

119,655,069 
$101,903,153 

654, 404 

f 821, 688 

54,033,679 
$43,003,550 

877,133 
$567,390 

Per  cent  of 

Increase, 

1899-1909. 


121. 45 
136.96 


125.39 
44.82 


1  Decrease. 


The  figures  in  Table  84  include  fancy  worsted,  piece-dyed  worsteds, 
staple  serges,  etc.,  for  men's  wear.  The  production  of  worsted  suit- 
ings and  coatings  increased  during  the  decade  121.45  per  cent  in 
quantity  and  136.96  per  cent  in  value.  Heavy  worsted  goods  not 
as  commonly  used  as  woolens  for  overcoatings  and  cloakings,  show  a 
small  production  and  a  decrease  during  the  decade  of  25.39  per  cent 
in  quantity.  The  increase  of  44.82  per  cent  in  value  indicates  that 
such  worsted  overcoatings  and  cloakmgs  as  were  made  were  sold  at 
a  higher  price  than  those  made  10  years  before. 

The  production  of  cotton-warp  worsteds  for  men's  wear  is  shown 
in  Table  85.  The  term  cassimeres,  doeskins,  and  tweeds  are  used 
loosely  here  by  the  census;  they  generally  refer  only  to  woolens. 

Table  85. — Production  of  worsted-filled  woven  goods  for  men^s  wear  in  the  United  States, 

1899  and  1909. 


1909 

1899 

Per  cent  of 
increase, 
1899-1909. 

Worsted-filling  cassimeres,  doeskins,  jeans,  tweeds,  etc.,  and 
other  cotton-warp  goods  for  men's  wear: 
Square  yards 

29,530,236 
$15,204,081 

12,663,719 
$7,267,508 

133. 19 

Value 

109  21 

The  production  of  these  goods  shows  a  relatively  greater  increase 
during  the  decade  than  the  all-worsted  goods,  but  the  quantity  pro- 
duced, although  relatively  larger  in  1909  than  in  1899,  was  in  1909 
stiQ  only  about  one-fourth  as  great  as  the  production  of  all-worsted 
goods.  The  production  increased  during  the  decade  133.19  per  cent 
m  quantity  and  109.21  per  cent  in  value.  These  cotton  worsteds  for 
men's  wear  are  used  in  making  cheap  clothing  demanded  by  the  same 
market  which  uses  woolens  contaimng  reclaimed  wool  and.  wastes. 

Production  of  woolen  fabrics  in  the  United  States.— In  1909  there 
were  m  the  United  States  587  estabhshments  with  a  capital  of 
$120,317,070  producing  chiefly  carded  woolen  goods.  These  estab- 
lishments employed  62,183  wage  earners,  used  materials  valued  at 


128 


BEPOBT  OF  T.iBIFF  BOABD  ON   SCHEDU1.E  K. 


BEPOET  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  QN   SCHEDULE  K. 


•i««l 


$65,651,634,  and  produced  products  the  total  value  of  which  was 
$107,118,858.^ 

Woolen  cloths  are  made  from  yarn  spun  by  the  carded  woolen  proc- 
ess. These  yarns  are  fuller  and  softer  than  worsted  yarns  and 
produce  a  fabric  which  is  weaker  than  a  worsted  fabric  of  like  weight. 
Typical  woolens  are  broadcloths,  beavers,  meltons,  tweeds,  cassi- 
meres,  and  doeskins.  A  broadcloth  is  made  from  fine  wool  and  has 
a  glossy,  finished  surface.  A  tweed  is  a  twilled  woolen  with  a  rough, 
unfinished  face.  The  south  of  Scotland  is  particularly  noted  for  its 
Harris  tweeds.  In  the  United  States  the  term  ^'cassimere"  is  used 
to  designate  almost  any  woolen  cloth  and  this  meaning  of  the  word 
is  used  in  the  United  "States  census  classification.  A  doeskin  is  a 
soft,  compact  woolen  cloth  with  a  highly  finished  surface. 

The  production  of  all-wool  cloths  in  the  woolen  and  worsted  indus- 
tries of  the  United  States  is  shown  in  Table  86. 

Table  86. — Prodwction  of  all-wool  cloths  for  Tnen^s  wear  in  the  woolen  and  worsted 

industries  in  the  United  States,  1899  and  1909. 


1909 

1890 

Per  cent 

of  increase, 

1899-1909. 

Wool  cloths,  etc.,  for  meo's  wear: 

Sauare  vards      .. - 

40.843.979 
$29,291,059 

14,697,770 
$11,230,856 

34,298,426 
$22,645,869 

18.729,194 
$16,131,709 

19.06 

Value          . 

29.34 

Woolen  overcoatings,  cloakings,  kerseys,  etc. 
women's  wear: 
Rniiara  vards                      

,  for  men's  and 

121.6a 

Value  .   

130.38 

>  Decrease. 

Table  86  shows  that  wool  cloths  for  men's  wear  increased  during 
the  decade  19.08  per  cent  in  quantity  and  29.34  per  cent  in  value. 
On  the  contrary,  all-woolen  overcoatings,  cloakings,  and  similar  heavy 
fabrics  for  men's  and  women's  wear  declined  during  the  decade  21.52 
per  cent  in  quantity  and  30.38  per  cent  in  value. 

The  production  of  cotton-mixed  woolen  cloths,  i.  e.,  goods  made 
from  merino  yam,  in  the  United  States  is  shown  in  Table  87. 

Table  KJ .— Production  of  cotton-mixed  woven  goods  for  men's  wear  in  the  woolen  indus- 
try of  the  United  StaUs,  1899  and  1909. 


1909 

1899 

Per  cent 
of  decrease, 
1899-1909. 

Union  tweeds,  casslmeree,  cheviots,  etc.,  for  men's  wear: 

Rniiam  viirdii                      ... 

15,381,479 
$6,241,809 

4,242,245 

$2,342,506 

29,588,901 
$12,815,389 

6,675,464 
$3,164,749 

48.2 

Vftltift                             -    ... ...••.... 

51.29 

Overcoatings  and  cloaMngs: 

fin  11  Am  vftrdfi - -• 

25.25 

VaIiia                                     ... ..................•...•------•- 

25.98 

The  production  of  both  the  medium-weight  and  heavy-weight 
cotton-mixed  goods  has  declined  decidedlv  during  the  decade. 
Union  tweeds,  cassimeres,  and  cheviots  used  for  men's  wear  declined 

1  For  further  particulaia  of  the  woolen  industry,  see  p.  225. 


48.2  per  cent  in  quantitv  and  51.29  per  cent  in  value,  and  overcoat- 
ings and  cloakings  mad.e  from  wool  and  cotton  declined  25.25  per 
cent  in  quantity  and  25.98  per  cent  in  value.  In  addition  to  the 
cotton-mixed  goods  reported  in  Table  87,  the  worsted  industry  pro- 
duced 3,658,118  square  yards  of  cotton-mixed  woven  goods  valued 
at  $1,617,890. 

The  production  of  wool-filled  woven  goods  for  men's  wear,  i.  e., 
goods  with  cotton  warp  and  wool  filling,  in  the  United  States  is  given 
m  Table  88. 


Table  88.- 


-Production  of  wool-filled  woven  goods  for  men's  wear  in  the  United  States, 

1899  and  1909. 


Wool-filling  cassimeres,  doeskins,  jeaiJis,  tweeds,  etc.,  and  other 
cotton  warp  goods  for  men's  wear: 

Square  yards 

Value 

Wool-filled  overcoatings  and  cloakings: 

Square  yards 

Value 


1909 

1899 

45,244.866 
$12,107,320 

1,914,609 
$651,795 

37,160,449 
$11,024,538 

3,917,498 
$1,430,430 

Per  cent  of 

increase, 

1899-1909. 


21.7$ 
9.82 

151.13 
154.43 


1  Decrease. 


.  The  production  of  the  medium  weight  cotton  warp  wool-filled  goods 
increased  during  the  decade  21.76  per  cent  in  quantity  and  9.82  per 
cent  in  value.  The  greater  increase  in  quantity  as  compared  with 
value  indicates  that  the  price  per  square  yard  has  declined.  The 
production  of  wool-filled  overcoatings  and  cloakings,  on  the  contrary, 
declined  51.13  per  cent  in  quantity  and  54.43  per  cent  in  value. 

Production  of  woolen  ana  worsted  fabrics  in  the  United  Kingdom. — 
The  production  of  woolen  and  worsted  fabrics  in  the  United  Kiugdom 
in  1907  is  presented  in  Table  89. 

Table  89. — Production  of  woolen  and  worsted  tissues,  excluding  dress  goods,  in  the  United 

Kingdom  in  1907. 


Quantity. 

V^ue. 

"Woolen  tissues  (all  wool  or  mixed  with  other  materials,  including  mixture  of 
woolen  and  worsted  yams): 
Broad 

Yards. 
143,246.000 
40,350,000 

51,104,000 
7,435,000 

$71,819,807 

Narrow 

8,516,375 

Worsted  tissues  (all  wool  or  mixed  with  other  materials),  worsted  coatings 
and  trouserings  of  all  kinds: 
Broad 

40. 732.601 

Narrow 

3,523,346 

Commerce  of  leading  countries  in  woolen  and  worsted  fabrics. — Table 
90  presents  the  imports  and  exports  of  woolen  and  worsted  fabrics 
for  certain  leading  foreign  countries. 

32080°— U.  Doc.  342,  62-2,  vol  1 9 


It  It 


1^0 


BXPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOABO  ON  SCHEDTTLE  K. 


Table  90. — Imports  and  exports  of  woolen  and  worsted  ehthy  for  leading  cmmtnes.  ti 

1909  and  1910. 


1909 

1910 

C!ouBtry. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Imports. 

Exjwits. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

United  States... 

'4.472,635 
»2, 714, 260 
15,845,938 
%,  946; 826 

$4,777,447 
1,966,898 
5,. 501, 614 
4,731,321 

W,'  47i  i  666  $67  *  050,'  486 
110,115,807   11,512,646 

'5.897,630 
«2, 549, 589 
l6,,^'»,327 
a9, 752, 743 

$6,104,140 
1,949,427 
5,966,016 
6,749,014 

United  Kingdom 

PT?inr« 

n20,960,000 
112,793,735 

$82,649,663 
12,376,125 

Canada....  -,..,. 

I  Pounds. 


»  Yards. 


Germany  does  not  report  in  her  official  returns  the  imports  and 
exports  of  woolen  and  worsted  fabrics  as  distinguished  from  dress 

foods,  and  for  this  reason  no  figures  are  given  for  her  in  Table  90. 
Q  1910,  however,  she  imported  5,344,171  pounds  of  woolen  and 
worsted  fabrics,  including  dress  goods,  valued  at  $6,074,950,  and 
exported  55,271,747  pounds  of  woolen  and  worsted  cloth,  including 
dress  goods,  valued  at  $49,888,846.  Corresponding  figures  are  slightly 
lower  for  1909. 

The  exports  of  woolen  and  worsted  fabrics  from  the  United  King- 
dom are  so  important  that  they  are  presented  in  detail  in  Table  91. 

Table  91. — Exports  of  woolen  and  worsted  cloth  (excluding  dress  goods)  from  the  United 

Kingdom  in  1910. 


Woolen  tissues: 

Heavy,  broad- 
All  wool 

Mixed  with  other  materials. 

Heavy,  narrow- 
All  wool 

Mixed  with  other  materials. 

Light.  broad- 
All  wool 

Mbced  with  other  materials. 


Light.  narrow- 
All  wool. 


Mixed  with  other  materials. 
Worsted  tissues: 
Coatings,  broad- 
All  wool 

Mixed  with  other  materials. 
Coatings,  narrow- 
All  wool 

Mixed  witli  other  materials. 


Quantity. 


Yards. 
20,978,800 
24,199,900 

588,300 
505,100 

11,801,200 
23,140,600 

5.056,800 
9,003,400 


16,265,400 

8,376,400 

500,000 
644,500 


Total 120,960,000 


Value. 


$26,076,012 
12,002,361 

476,578 
165,680 

10,742,599 
7,278,075 

1,591,282 
1,823,706 


16,324,509 
4,731,625 

345,906 
192,329 


82,649,663 


KNIT   FABRICS    (NOT    WEARING   APPAREL). 

Knitted  piece  goods. — Only  knitted  piece  goods  are  dutiable  under 
paragraph  378.  All  knitted  wearing  apparel,  such  as  hosiery, 
sweaters,  etc.,  are  dutiable  under  the  higher  rates  of  paragraph  382. 
Knitted  piece  goods  are  cut  up  and  shaped  into  various  garments, 
such  as  gloves,  jackets,  sweaters,  etc.  The  difference  between  the 
rates  of  paragraphs  382  and  379  is  intended  to  protect  the  process  of 
making  piece  goods  into  garments. 


EEPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDUI.E  K. 


131 


Knitting. — ^As  distinguished  from  weaving,  knitting  is  the  forma- 
tion of  a  fabric  by  causing  a  yarn  to  make  continuously  loops  with 
itself.  It  is  accomplished  by  a  series  of  hooked  needles,  each  pro- 
vided with  a  latch  device  for  holding  and  subsequently  releasing  the 
yarn.  The  yarn  is  drawn  by  the  needle  through  the  loop  made  in 
itself  and  the  moment  the  new  loop  is  complete  the  needte  is  freed. 

Duties  on  and  imports  of  knitted  fabrics. — The  rates  of  duty  on 
knitted  fabrics  are  the  same  as  those  on  woolen  and  worsted  cloth, 
and  the  explanation  on  page  123  applies  to  the  former  as  well  as  the 
latter.  The  rates  of  duty  are  presented  in  Table  92  in  connection 
with  the  imports  of  knit  fabrics  into  the  United  States  for  the  fiscal 
year  ended  June  30,  1911. 

Table  92.— Imports  of  knit  fabrics  (not  wearing  apparel)  into  the  United  States  for  the 

fiscal  year  ended  June  SO,  1911. 


Rate  of  duty. 

Quanti- 
ties. 

Values. 

Revenue 
derived. 

Ad  valo- 
rem rate 
(com- 
puted). 

Knit  fabrics  (not  wearing  ap- 
parel): 
Valued  at  not  more  than  40 

cents  per  poimd. 
Valued  at  above  40  and  not 
above  70  cents  per  pound. 
•Valued  at  over  70  cents  per 
pound. 

33  cents  per  pound+50  per 

cent. 
44  cent«  per  pound+50  per 

cent. 
44  cents  per  pormd+56  per 

cent. 

Pownds. 
197 

1,653 

12,813 

163 

1,060 

13,734 

196.51 

1,257.32 

43,050.42 

153.19 

118.62 
e&.09 

Total   knit   fabrics   (not 

14,363 

14,857 

14,413.25 

»7.01 

wearing  apparel). 

Analysis  of  imports  of  knit  fabrics, ^Tlie  same  discrimination  which 
we  founci  against  cheaper  cloths  appears  also  in  Table  92.  The  dis- 
crimination is  in  the  compensatory  or  specific  duties.  The  compensa- 
tory duty  on  knit  fabrics  imported  in  1911  valued  at  40  cents  or  less 
per  pound  is  103.19  per  cent  of  their  value;  on  knit  fabrics  valued 
over  40  and  not  above  70  cents  per  pound,  68.62  per  cent  of  their 
value;  and  on  knit  fabrics  valued  over  70  cents  per  pound^  only  40.09 
per  cent  of  their  value.  The  imports  of  the  best  grades  of  knit  fabrics 
are  small  and  the  imports  of  tho  cheapest  are  negligible.  The  cheaper 
kmt  fabrics  contam  cotton,  shoddy,  noils,  and  similar  wool  substi- 
tutes, and  the  domestic  manufacturer  does  not  need  a  compensation 
of  33  cents  per  pound  on  goods  valued  at  40  cents  or  less  per  pound 
or  44  cents  per  pound  on  goods  valued  over  40  and  not  over  70  cents 
per  pound.  Anv  fabrics  m  the  making  of  which  4  or  even  3  pounds 
of  greasy  wool  of  class  1  were  used  would  be  classed  as  valued  over  70 
cents  per  pound.  It  is  becoming  more  and  more  common  to  mix 
cotton  and  wool  in  knit  goods,  and  in  so  far  as  cotton  is  used  the 
domestic  manufacturer  gets  added  protection  in  the  compensatory 
duties.  The  average  pnce  of  knit  fabrics  valued  at  40  cents  or  less 
per  pound  imported  in  1910  was  about  40  cents  and  in  1911  about  32 
cents  per  pound;  the  average  price  of  knit  fabrics  valued  over  40 
cents  and  not  over  70  cents  per  pound  imported  in  1910  was  61  cents 
and  m  1911,  64  cents  per  pound;  the  average  price  of  knit  fabrics 
valued  over  70  cents  per  pound  hnported  in  1910  and  1911  was  about 
11. lu. 


I 


if  I 


H 


rt 


132 


BEPOET  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  OK  SCHEDULE  K. 


Imports  ofJcnitfahricsfor  revreserUatwe  years.— The  imports  of  kmt 
fabrics,  not  wearing  apparel,  into  the  United  States  for  certain  rep- 
resentative years  is  presented  in  Table  93. 

Table  93  -Imports  of  hnU  fabrics,  not  wearing  apparel,  entered  for  conmmption  into 

the  United  States. 


Qnantlty. 

Value. 

Revenne 
derived. 

Ad  valo- 
rem rate  of 
duty  (com- 
puted). 

Fiscal  vear  ending  June  30— 

issmi 

1900 

1905 

1910 

1911 

Pounds. 

1,066,611 

5.102 

7,705 

34,663 

14,363 

1405,695 
6,115 

7,864 
37,000 

14,857 

$146,378 

6,479 

7,714 

35,431 

14,413 

36.06 
89.69 
98.10 
95.76 
97.06 

1  Under  the  Wilson  bill. 


Imports  of  hnit  fahncs,  hj  coun<m«.— The  imports  of  knit  fabrics 
into  the  United  States,  by  countries,  for  certam  representative  years 
is  given  in  Table  94. 

ImpoHs  of  hnit  fabrics  of  wool,  by  countries,  entered  for  immediate  consump- 
tion and  for  warehouse,  into  the  United  States. 


Table  94.— 


Country  of  origin. 


France 

Germany 

Switzerland 

United  Kingdom . 
Other  countries.. 


1896 


S62,057 
1,184,587 

122,507 

1, 169, 438 

3,063 


1900 


19,110 
293,894 

47.239 

144,877 

841 


1905 


118, 118 

36,166 

77,592 

92,479 

28 


1910  » 


S390 

10,877 

111 

6,493 

387 


1  Included  in  "All  other  manufactures  of"  after  1910. 
PLUSHES    AND    OTHER    PILE    FABRICS. 

Nature  of  plusli,  velvet,  dc— Although  not  specially  mentioned. 
plnsltTvlets,  and  similar  pile  fabrics  made  wholk  or  chiefly  of 
Wool,  are  dutiable  under  paragraph  378  Velvets  and  pl^^^hes  com- 
monly made  from  cotton  and  sUt  are  also  made  ^^^  wool  camels 
hair  alpaca,  and  mohair.  The  pile  or  nap  on  these  fabrics  consists 
&S  which  stand  out  perpendicularly  from  the  body  of  the  fab- 
ric In  plushes  the  nap  is  longer  than  in  velvets,  which  gives  plushes 
a  softer  and  more  yielding  fel.  In  weavmg  plushes  and  velvets  an 
extra  warp  thread  Is  usecf,  which  is  woven  over  wires  inserted  auto- 
matTca%  on  the  foundation  of  the  other  warp  and  the  miing  As 
Lse  wiJes  are  withdrawn  from  under  the  l«<^f  >  ^^^^^^^^^^^^ 
cut  the  loops  and  leave  the  pde  standmg  erect  and  umform  over  the 

^''mHS'm^^^^  ofplefalHcs.-The  rates  of  d;jty  o^^^^^^^^ 

and  nile  fabrics  are  the  same  as  those  on  page  123  for  woolen  ana 
worsted  fabrics.     Pile  fabrics  valued  at  40  cents  or   ess  Per  ^^^^^ 
pay  a  duty  of  33  cents  per  pound  and  50  per  cent ;  valued  ^lore  tjian 
lo  and  not  more  than  70  cents  per  pound,  44  cents  per  pound  and  50 
per  cent;  and  valued  over  70  cents  per  pound,  44  cents  per  pound 


\ 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


133 


and  55  per  cent.     The  imports  of  pile  fabrics  in  1911  are  presented  in 
Table  95. 

Table  95.~Imports  of  plushes  and  other  pile  fabrics  into  the  United  States  for  the  fiscal 

year  ending  June  SO,  1911. 


Plushes  and  pile  fabrics: 

Valued  at  above  40  cents  and  not  above  70  cents  per 

pound 

Valued  at  over  70  cents  per  pound 

Total  plushes,  etc 


Quantity. 


Pounds. 
2.790 
10,227 


Value. 


11,698 
10,011 


Revenue 
derived. 


Ad  valo- 
rem rate  of 
duty  (com- 
puted). 


f2,07G.f)0 
10,005.93 


122.30 
99.95 


13,017 


11,709  I    12,082.53 


103.19 


No  imports  of  plushes  and  other  pile  fabrics  valued  at  40  cents  or 
less  per  pound  are  reported  for  1911;  nor  are  any  reported  in  1909 
and  1910.  Pile  fabrics,  even  when  made  entirely  of  wool  or  hair,  are 
made  from  the  light-shrinking  wools,  mohair,  camel's  hair,  and  the 
like,  and  seldom  would  the  domestic  manufacturer  of  like  fabrics 
need  a  compensatory  duty  e^nsl  to  four  times  the  duty  on  greasy  wool 
of  class  1.  And,  of  course,  in  so  far  as  he  uses  cotton  or  other  textile 
•  ?  ^^  ^^^®  ^^^^  ^^  ^^^^  ^^  ^^^^  products,  he  receives  extra  protection 
m  the  compensatorv  duties  against  the  importation  of  like  goods. 
The  compensatory  duty  on  pile  fabrics  valued  over  40  and  not  over 
70  cents  per  pound  was,  in  1911,  72.3  per  cent  of  then-  value,  and  on 
pile  fabrics  valued  over  70  cents  per  pound,  44.95  per  cent  of  their 
value.  In  each  case  the  compensatory  duty  is  44  cents  per  pound, 
but,  due  to  variations  in  materials  used,  operates  unequally.  The 
average  price  of  pile  fabrics  valued  over  40  cents  and  not  over  70 
cents  per  pound  imported  into  the  United  States  in  1910  and  1911  was 
60  cents  per  pound;  the  average  price  of  those  valued  over  70  cents 
per  pound  imported  in  1910  was  $1.06;  and  in  1911,  98  cents  per 
pound.  ^ 

Imports  of  pile  fabrics  for  representative  years.— The  unports  of 
plushes  and  other  pile  fabrics  into  the  United  States  for  certain  rep- 
resentative years  is  presented  in  Table  96. 

Table  9Q.— Imports  of  plushes  and  other  pile  fabrics  entered  for  consumption  into  the 

United  States. 


Quantity. 


Fiscal  year  ending  June  30— 
189G  1  .  ^^ 

1900 

1905 

1910 

1911 


Pounds. 
118,821 
15,105 
10,641 
18,421 
13,017 


Value. 


$128,637 
18,651 
14.354 
16,726 
11,709 


Revenue 
derived. 


$G4,312 
16,882 
12,555 
17,118 
12,083 


Ad  valorem 
rate  of 

duty  (com- 
puted). 


49.99 

90.52 

87.46 

102.34 

103.19 


»  Under  the  WUson  bill. 


II 


I ! 


134 


MBPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOAKD  ON  SCHEDULE  K* 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD   ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


135 


Commerce  of  leading  countries  in  pUe  fabrics. — The  imports  and 
exports  of  plushes  and  pUe  fabrics  of  wool  for  certain  leadmg  foreign 
countries  are  presented  in  Table  97. 

Table  97.— Imports  and  exports  of  plushes  and  pile  fabrics  for  leading  countries  in  1909 

and  19107 


1909 

1910 

Country. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Imports. 

• 

Exports. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

United  States 

J  37, 488 

136,217 

U8,421 

f  16, 726 

'*8  302  ,'766' 
13,063,953 
137,037 

«40:i,900 
» 2, 640. 890 

121,820 

$342,465 

2,032,996 

26,930 

S356,554 

Gcrmanv 

» 42, 328 
>  318, 124 

34,272 
466,969 

» 30,203 
1323,635 

24,752 
357,605 

2,316,216 

Austria-Hungary  . . 

30,604 

1  Pounds. 


'Yards. 


ALL  OTHER  MANUFACTURES   OP   WOOL    (N.  S.  P.  F.). 

Typical  articles  dutiable  under  this  provision, — A  heterogeneous  col- 
lection of  articles  is  dutiable  under  paragraph  378  under  the  blanket 
provision  "All  manufactures  of  every  description,  made  whoUy  or 
in  part  of  wool,  not  specially  provided  for  in  this  section."  These 
articles  are  generally  in  chief  value  of  wool,  but  they  may  be  m  weight 
chiefly  of  other  materials.  Some  of  the  articles  which  havepaid  duty 
under  this  provision  are:  Portieres;  press  cloth  made  of  animal  hau-; 
endless  belts  and  machine  blankets;  antique  tapestries;  bareges; 
fancy  baskets  composed  of  ^\^llow.  metal,  and  wool;  bombazines; 
card  cloth;  caslmiere  cloth  for  making  shawls;  cattle  hau-  fabncs- 
chak  seating  composed  of  woven  bamboo  seating  hned  with  wool 
and  jute  cloth  stuffed  with  straw;  cotton  quilts,  with  wool  fringe; 
cottonettes  of  wool  and  cotton,  cotton  principally  m  quantity,  wool 
in  value;  dolls'  wigs  of  goat  hair  attached  to  a  cotton  foundation; 
dusters  composed  of  wooden  handles  to  which  are  attached  strips  of 
woolen  cloth  commonly  known  as  list;  furniture  of  wood  and  wool 
tapestiT,  wool  chief  value;  hat  crowns  of  wool  and  silk;  lap  robes; 
musical  instrument  key  pads  of  leather,  cotton,  and  woolen  fabrics, 
wool  cliief  value;  ornaments  composed  of  bisque  dolls,  heads  glued  to 
disks  of  pasteboard  covered  with  several  layers  of  woolen  cloth,  com- 
mercially known  as  penwipers,  although  not  designated  for  actual 
use  as  such;  painter^s  tapestry  or  canvas;  penwipers  composed  of 
wool  and  metal;  powder  pads  or  puffs,  consisting  of  fiat  cu-cular 
pieces  of  a  woolen  fabric  used  for  applying  face  powder;  scapulanes 
of  wool  and  cotton,  with  rehgious  emblems  prmted  thereon;  traveling 
ru^  and  upholstering  goods  of  wool,  silk,  and  cotton,  wool  chief 

value.  ,  rw«     .  . 

Imports  under  tie  ''Uanlcet''  provision  of  378,  %n  1911. —The  imports 
of  unspecified  manufactures  of  wool  into  the  United  States  for  the 
fiscal  year  ending  June  30,  1911,  are  shown  in  Table  98. 


f 


Table  98. — Imports  of  unspecified  manufactures  of  wool  into  the  United  States  for  the 

fiscal  year  ending  June  SO,  1911. 


All  other  manufactures  wholly  or  in  part  of  wool: 
.  Valued  at  not  more  than  40  cents  per  pound. . 
Valued  at  above  40  cents  and  not  above  70 

cents  per  pound 

Valued  at  over  70  cents  per  pound 


Quantity. 


6,167.50 

98,586.00 
192,424.32 


Value. 


$1,886.70 

49,569.00 
285,449.99 


Revenue 
derived. 


$2,978.63 

68,162.34 
241,664.39 


Ad  valorem 
rate  of 

duty  (com- 
puted). 


157.88 

137.51 
84.66 


Imports  analyzed. — It  is  not  possible  to  say  just  what  articles  are 
included  in  the  imports  of  Table  98,  bu*t  they  are  made  up  of  articles 
similar  to  those  enumerated  in  the  paragraph  immediately  preceding 
the  table.  In  general,  they  are  made  in  part  of  materials  other 
than  wool,  and,  while  wool  may  be  chief  in  value,  the  other  mate- 
rials are  often  chief  in  weight.  The  compensatory  duties  are  levied 
on  the  entire  weight  of  these  articles,  regardless  of  the  per  cent  of 
wool.  We  therefore  find  rubber,  iron,  wood,  cow's  hair,  and  other 
materials  paying  a  duty  when  imported  in  connection  with  wool, 
wliich  compensates  the  domestic  manufacturer  of  like  articles  on 
the  theory  that  4  pounds  of  wool  was  used  in  making  every  pound 
of  these  articles.  If,  for  example,  a  chair  is  imported  whose  uphol- 
stering of  wool  is  the  most  valuable  part  of  the  chair,  but  whos6 
chief  weight  is  made  up  of  wood  and  fiUing,  the  whole  chair,  if 
valued  over  40  cents  per  pound,  pays  a  duty  of  44  cents  per  pound 
on  its  whole  weight  m  addition  to  the  ad  valorem  duty.  Or,  to 
take  another  example,  cattle-hair  fabrics  pay  the  compensatory 
duty,  but  cattle  hair  is  on  the  free  list,  and  it  would  seem  that  the 
manufacturer  of  them  in  the  United  States  needs  no  compensation 
whatever. 

Table  98  shows  that  the  compensatory  duty  (excluding  the  ad 
valorem  duty  of  50  per  cent)  on  unspecified  manufactures  of  wool 
valued  at  40  cents  or  less  per  pound  in  1911  was  107.88  per  cent  of 
their  value;  on  those  valued  over  40  and  not  over  70  cents  per 
pound,  87.51  per  cent  of  their  value;  and  on  those  valued  over  70 
cents  per  pound,  29.66  per  cent  of  their  value. 

Imports  of  unspecified  manufactures  of  wool  for  representative 
years. — Imports  of  unspecified  manufactures,  made  wholly  or  in 
part  of  wool,  into  the  United  States  for  certain  representative  years 
is  presented  in  Table  99. 

Table  99. — Imports  of  unspecified  manufactures,  wholly  or  in  part  of  wool,  entered  for 

consumption  into  the  United  States. 


Quantity. 

Value. 

Revenue 
derived. 

Ad  valorem 
rate  of 

duty  (com- 
puted). 

Fiscal  year  ending  June  30— 
1900 

Pounds. 
297,927 
230, 102 
362,947 
297,190 

$273,946 
298,423 
393,  *11 
336,930 

$268,933 
259,393 
371, 761 
312,820 

98  17 

1905 

86  92 

1910 

94  51 

1911 

92.84 

BEPOBT  OF   TAKIFP  BOAKD  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


Production  of  carridae  doihs  and  robes, — It  is  not  possible  in  many 
cases  to  give  the  production  in  this  country  of  articles  enumerated 
under  the  *' blanket"  provision  of  paragraph  378.  They  can  be 
given,  however,  for  carnage  robes  and  cloths,  and  the  production  of 
these  in  the  United  States  is  presented  in  Table  100 : 


Table  100. 


-Prodwction  of  all-wool  and  cotton-warp  carriage  robes  and  clolhs  in  the 
United  States,  1899  and  1909. 


All-wool  carriage  cloths: 

Square  yards 

Value 

Cotton-warp  carriage  robes: 

Square  yards 

I       Value.. 


1900 

1899 

1,246,423 
$623,981 

2,882,171 
$1,376,595 

1,220,408 
$696,999 

1.250,233 
1815,233 

Per  cent  of 
increase. 


2.13 
U0.4& 

130.53 

t8.86 


>  Decrease. 


Commerce  in  wool  upJiolstering  goods. — The  imports  and  exports 
of  wool  upholstering  goods  for  certain  leading  foreign  countries  is 
presented  m  Table  101 : 

Table  101. — Imports  and  exports  of  upholstering  fabrics  and  similar  goods  for  leading 

countries  in  1909  and  1910. 


1909 

1910 

Country 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Qnantity. 

Value. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Qimntity. 

Value. 

TTnited  KinErdoin..... 

Pounds. 

Pounds. 

133,100 

1,023,156 

1,044,099 

$83,825 

724,472 

1,301,216 

Pounds. 

Pounds. 

197,600 

1,194,011 

847,669 

441 

$144,559 

Oemiany 

173, 502 

10,803 

441 

$159,23 

10,638 

371 

224,208 

16,755 

220 

$236,672 

16,598 
185 

774,214 

France 

894, ie» 

Itaiv 

371 

Faragrapli  370.— BLANKETS  AND  FLANNEL  FOB  UNDERWEAR. 

On  blankets,  and  flannels  for  underwear  composed  wholly  or  in  part  of  wool,  valued 
at  not  more  than  forty  cents  per  pound,  the  duty  per  pound  i^half  be  the  same  as  the 
duty  imposed  by  tliis  section  on  two  pounds  of  unwashed  wool  of  the  first  class,  and 
in  addition  thereto  thirty  per  centum  ad  valorem;  valued  at  more  than  forty  cents 
and  not  more  than  fifty  cents  per  pound,  the  duty  per  pound  shall  be  three  times  the 
duty  imposed  by  this  section  on  one  pound  of  unwashed  wool  of  the  first  class,  and 
in  addition  thereto  thirty-five  per  centum  ad  valorem.  On  blankets  composed  wholly 
or  in  part  of  wool,  valued  at  more  than  fifty  cents  per  pound,  the  duty  per  pound 
shall  be  three  times  the  duty  imposed  by  this  section  on  one  pound  of  unwashed  wool 
of  the  first  class,  and  in  addition  thereto  forty  per  centum  ad  valorem.  Flannels 
composed  wholly  or  in  part  of  wool,  valued  at  above  fifty  cents  per  pound,  shall  be 
classified  and  pay  the  same  duty  as  women's  and  children's  dress  goods,  coat  linings, 
Italian  cloths,  and  goods  of  similar  character  and  description  provided  by  this  sec- 
tion: Provided,  That  on  blankets  over  three  yards  in  length  the  same  duties  shall  be 
paid  as  on  cloths. 

Paragraph  379  provides  import  duties  on  bed  blankets,  horse  blan- 
kets, and  similar  heavy  fabrics  made  wholly  or  in  part  of  wool,  and 
on  flannels  for  underwear.  Flannels  for  outer  garments  are  dutiable 
as  dress  goods  under  paragraphs  380  and  381. 


f 


^ 

i 


EEPOET  OF   TABIFF  BOABD   ON   SCHEDUliE  K. 


BLANKETS. 


137 


Blankets  defined. — A  blanket  is  a  heavy,  woven  fabric  made  of 
carded  woolen  yarn  and  shrunk  or  fulled  until  the  weave  structure 
is  obhterated.  Onlv  the  very  best  blankets  are  made  entirely  of  new 
wool.  Shoddy,  noils,  wool  waste,  cotton,  and  other  wool  substitutes 
are  extensively  used.  It  is  a  marvel  to  the  uninitiated  the  shortness 
and  poorness  of  wastes  and  shoddy  that  can  be  spun  into  a  yam 
and  finally  put  into  a  cotton-warp  blanket.  The  poorest  wool  sub- 
stitutes are  put  into  horse  blankets  and  hospital  blankets  which  must 
be  burned  after  the  recovery  or  death  of  the  patient. 

When  a  blanket  comes  off  the  loom,  it  is  very  unsightly.  It  may  be 
said  to  be  ''made''  in  the  finishing  process,  the  chief  operation  of  which 
is  fulling.  Fulluig  felts  and  shrmlis  the  fabric,  giving  it  more  thick- 
ness and  more  weight  to  a  given  area.  Three  things  are  necessary  in 
fulling — ^heat,  moisture,  and  pressure.  The  moisture  is  applied  in  the 
form  of  soap  and  water  and  pressure  by  means  of  heavy  rollers  or  a 
huge  hammer  which  falls  on  the  fabric  or  by  boards  pressing  laterally 
or  lineally  on  the  fabric.  The  process  bursts  the  original  yams  and 
destroys  the  weave  structure. 

Rates  of  duty  on  Uankets. — Blankets  3  yards  or  less  in  length, 
when  imported  into  the  United  States,  are  subject  to  the  following 
rates  of  duty: 

Valued  not  more  than  40 cents  per  pound,  22  cents  per  pound  and  30  per  cent;  valued 
more  than  40  and  not  more  than  50  cents  per  pound,  33  cents  per  pound  and  35  per 
cent;  valued  at  more  than  50  cents  per  pound,  33  cents  per  pound  and  40  per  cent. 

The  reduction  of  the  compensatory  duties  as  it  appears  in  these 
rates  is  a  recognition  of  the  fact  that  wool  substitutes  are  used  exten- 
sively in  blankets,  especially  in  those  of  the  lower  grade.  By  these 
duties  the  domestic  manufacturer  of  blankets  similar  to  those  valued 
abroad  at  40  cents  or  less  per  pound,  is  compensated  on  the  assump- 
tion that  the  raw  material  used  in  his  product  is  advanced  in  price  by 
the  tariff  22  cents  per  pound ;  i.  e.,  the  duty  on  "  2  pounds  of  wool  of  the 
first  class."  The  compensation  given  to  the  domestic  manufacturer 
who  makes  blankets  similar  to  those  valued  abroad  at  over  40  cents 
per  pound  assumes  that  he  is  forced  by  the  tariff  to  pay  33  cents  more 
for  the  raw  material  used  in  1  pound  of  blanket  than  his  foreign  com- 
petitor. The  assumptions  on  which  these  duties  are  based  may  or  may 
not  be  true,  dependmg  on  the  nature  and  condition  of  the  material 
chosen  by  the  domestic  manufacturer.  In  addition  to  the  compen- 
satory duties  on  blankets,  the  ad  valorem  duties  of  30,  35,  and  40  per 
cent  are  levied  on  the  different  grades  of  blankets.  A  higher  per- 
centage of  protection  is  given  to  the  better  blankets  because  more 
labor  and  capital  are  employed  in  their  production. 

Blariket  w'oviso.— In  order  to  prevent  heavy,  felted,  woolen  cloth, 

Au  ^^^^^  ^®  classed  as  blanket  material,  but  be  used  for  overcoats 

and  heavy  clothing,  from  being  imported  at  the  relatively  low  rates 

assessed  on  blankets,  a  proviso  is  mtroduced  into  the  paragraph  as 

cl^*  °^  blankela  over  8  yaids  in  length  [the  same  [duties  [shall  be  paid  as  on 

c  '^l^  proviso  first  appeared  in  the  act  of  1894.  Three  yards  was 
saia  t^  be  the  standard  length  of  a  blanket  and  the  proviso  was  in- 
tended to  prevent  importers  from  taking  advantage  of  the  lower 


Xuo 


EEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOAKB  ON  SCHEDUIiE  K* 


KBPOET  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


13d 


1 


ll 

m 


blanket  rates  for  the  purpose  of  getting  lieavy  woolen  cloth  into  the 
United  States.  The  proviso  makes  the  higher  rates  of  paragraph  378 
applicable  to  blankets  over  3  yards  in  length.  These  rates  are  as 
follows: 

Valued  not  more  than  40  cents  per  pound,  33  cents  per  pound  and  50  per  cent: 
valued  more  than  40  and  not  more  than  70  cents  per  pound,  44  cents  per  pound  and 
60  per  cent;  valued  more  than  70  cents  per  pound,  44  cents  per  pound  and  55  per  cent. 

The  theory  of  these  duties  was  explained  on  page  123.  The 
specific  duties  of  33  and  44  cents  per  pound  in  theory  put  the  domestic 
manufacturer  on  the  same  basis  as  his  foreign  competitor  who  has 
free  wool,  and  the  ad  valorem  duties  of  50  and  55  per  cent  protect 
American  capital  and  labor  against  competition  from  abroad. 

Imports  of  blankets  into  the  United  States,— Table  102  ffives  in 
detail  the  blankets  imported  into  the  United  States  during  the  fiscal 
year  ending  June  30,  1911.  The  effect  of  the  proviso  on  the  com- 
puted ad  valorem  rate  of  duty  should  be  particularly  noted. 

Table  102.— Imports  of  blankets  irUo  the  United  States  Jor  the  fiscal  year  ending  June 


Rate  of  duty. 

Quanti- 
ties. 

Values. 

Revenue 
derived. 

Ad  valo- 
rem rata 
(com- 
puted). 

Blankets: 

Valued  at  not  more  than  40 

cents  per  poiiiid. 
Valued  at  more  than  40  and  not 
more  than  60  cents  per  pound. 
Valued  at  more  than  50  cents  per 

pound. 
Valued  at  more  than  fiO  cents 
per  pound  (reciprocity  treaty 
with  Cuha). 
More  than  3  yards  in  length— 
Valued  at  not  more  than  40 

cents  per  pounds 
Valued  at  above  40  and  not 
above  70  cents  per  pound. 
Valued  at  over  70  cents  per 
pound. 

22  cents  per  pound 
plus  30  per  cent. 

33  cents  per  pound 
plus  35  per  cent. 

33  cents  per  pound 
plus  40  per  cent. 

33  cents  per  pound 
plus  40  per  cent 
minus  20  per  cent. 

33  cents  per  poimd 
plus  60  per  cent. 

44  cents  per  pound 
pltis  50  per  cent. 

44  cents  per  pound 
plus  55  per  cent. 

1,561.50 

1,096.49 

38,711.60 

8.00 

664.50 
4,479.13 
5,897.59 

$523.00 

800.30 

40,220.23 

0.00 

185.00 
2,630.00 
6,459.00 

S500.43 

839.98 

31,267.71 

4.99 

311.79 
3,285.83 
5,597.39 

05.68 

104.95 

67.64 

65. 4« 

1G8.54 
124.04 
102.54 

Tntal  blAiikets           .... 

63,024.90 

65,832.53 

41,806.12 

74.88 

BlankeU  3  yards  or  less  in  len^th.—The  compensatory  duty  of  22 
cents  per  pound  on  blankets  3  yards  or  less  m  length  and  valued 
at  40  cents  or  less  per  pound  was  in  1911  equal  to  65.68  per  cent 
of  the  value  of  the  blankets  imported;  the  compensatory  duty  of 
33  cents  on  hke  blankets  valued  over  40  and  not  over  50  cents  per 
pound  was  in  1911  equal  to  69.95  per  cent  of  the  value  of  blankets 
imported;  and  the  compensatory  duty  on  this  class  of  blankets  valued 
over  50  cents  per  pound  was  in  1911  equal  to  27.64  per  cent  of  the 
value  of  the  blankets  imported.  It  appears  from  these  percentages 
that  in  spite  of  the  reduction  of  the  compensatory  duties  to  the  2  to  1 
and  3  to  1  instead  of  the  4  to  1  basis,  they  still  bear  most  heavily 
on  the  cheaper  blankets.  The  importation  of  blankets  3  yards  and 
less  in  length  and  valued  at  50  cents  or  less  is  negligible,  and  this  is 
due  to  the  fact  that  the  law  in  its  effort  to  compensate  the  domestic 
manufacturer  for  materials  used  on  which  he  had  to  pay  duty,  gives 
him  added  protection  equal  to  the  excess  of  actual  over  necessary 
oompensation. 


The  average  value  of  blankets  3  yards  or  less  in  length  and  valued 
at  40  cents  or  less  per  pound  imported  in  1911  was  33  cents  (in  1910, 
35  cents) ;  of  those  valued  over  40  and  not  over  50  cents  per  pound, 
47  cents  (in  1910,  47  cents);  and  of  those  valued  over  50  cents  per 

Eound,  $1.19  (in  1910,  $1.17).  The  higher  valuation  per  pound  on 
lankets  valued  over  50  cents  per  pound  explains  why  the  specific 
duty  of  33  cents  per  pound  bears  so  lightly  on  these  goods  as  com- 
pared with  cheaper  goods. 

Blankets  more  than  3  yards  in  lejigth,. — The  excess  of  actual  com- 
pensation over  necessary  compensation  is  more  marked  on  blankets 
over  3  yards  in  length  than  on  those  3  yards  or  less  in  len^h. 
Wliile  these  blankets  may  be  made  of  the  same  material  and  in 
the  same  manner  as  the  shorter  blankets,  the  proviso  makes  them 
dutiable  at  the  rates  of  cloths.  Under  these  duties  they  pay 
compensatory  duties  based  on  the  theory  that  3  or  4  pounds 
of  greasy  wool  of  class  1  are  used  in  their  making.  Here,  the 
compensatory  duty  on  blankets  valued  at  40  cents  or  less  per 
pound  in  1911  was  118.54  per  cent  of  the  value  of  those  imported; 
on  those  valued  over  40  and  not  over  70  cents  per  pound,  74.94  per 
cent  of  the  value  of  those  imported;  and  on  those  valued  over  70  cents 
per  pound,  47,54  per  cent  of  the  value  of  those  imported  in  1911.  It 
is  needless  to  point  out  that  the  addition  to  these  duties  of  50  or  55 

Eer  cent  according  to  the  classification  makes  the  importation  of 
lankets  over  3  yards  in  length  next  to  impossible.  The  average 
value  of  the  664^  pounds  of  these  blankets  valued  at  40  cents  or  less 
per  pound  imported  in  1911  was  28  cents  per  pound  (38  cents  in 
1910) ;  the  average  value  of  the  4,479  pounds  of  these  blankets  valued 
#ver  40  and  not  over  70  cents  per  pound  imported  in  1911  was  60 
cents  per  pound  (60  cents  in  1910);  the  average  value  of  the  5,898 
pounds  of  these  blankets  valued  over  70  cents  per  pound  imported 
m  1911  was  93  cents  per  pound  ($1  in  1910). 

From  the  above  analysis  of  the  rates  on  blankets,  several  things 
are  evident.  In  the  first  place,  the  rates  on  cheap  blankets  are  higher 
than  on  the  better  grades  of  blankets.  Secondly,  these  rates  are  not 
apparently  higher  but  are  higher  because  the  compensatory  duties 
more  than  cover  the  compensation  due  the  domestic  manufacturer 
of  cheap  blankets  for  the  enhancement  in  price  in  his  raw  materiaL 
As  a  matter  of  fact,  the  specific  duty  on  blankets  in  excess  of  neces- 
sary compensation  acts  to  exclude  substantially  all  importation  of 
cheap  blankets  made  from  reclaimed  wool  or  other  wool  substitutes. 
Imports  of  blankets  into  the  United  States  for  representative  years.  — 
Table  103  presents  the  total  importation  of  blankets  into  the  IJnited 
States  for  certain  representative  years.  It  should  be  noted  before 
examining  this  table  that  the  average  computed  ad  valorem  rates  of 
duty  indicated  are  not  a  fair  average  of  the  duties  on  the  various 
classes  of  blankets.  By  examining  Table  102  it  will  be  seen  that  only 
the  very  highest  grades  of  blankets  are  imported  in  any  quantity, 
f^^  *^^^®  lact  that  the  compensatory  duties  bear  more  lightly  on 
these  than  on  the  cheaper  grades.  Hence,  when  the  importations  of 
all  classes  are  added  together,  the  liigher  ad  valorem  rates  on  the 
cheaper  grades  are  obHterated  in  the  Tower  ad  valorem  rates  of  the 
more  valuable  grades.  Those  wishing  to  see  the  effect  of  the  duty  on 
the  vanous  grades  of  blankets  must  consult  Table  102. 


Ill^lll 

ll^llj 
^11 


'*! 


140  REPOBT  OF   TARIFF  BOARD  OJT   SCHBDHLE  IR. 

Table  im,— Imports  of  hUnkeU  entered  for  consumption  into  the  United  States. 


REPORT  OF   TARIFF  BOARD   ON   SCHM)ULE   K. 


141 


liacal  year  ending  June  SO— 
18961 

1900.. 

1905 

1910 

1911 


Quantity 


Pounds. 
172,901 
45,688 
35,336 
43,113 
53,025 


160,975 
27,967 
29,770 
45,995 
56,833 


Revenue 

derived. 


Ad  valorem 
rate  of  duty 
(computed), 


$18,144 
26,800 
26,234 
33,768 
41,806 


I 


29.78 
05.86 
88.12 
73.42 
74.88 


1  Under  the  Wilson  bill. 


Exports  of  UanTceU  and  flannels,  hy  countries —The  mP^^ts  of 
blanfetrby  countries  axe  not  reportea  separately  m  Commerce  and 
Zt^loZi  the  United  States     The  export  ^g-^^^^^o^^^^^^ 
flannels  for  underwear  are  classified  together.  J^^  f ^^7  T?  v^^^^^ 
articles  bv  countries  of  destination  are  given  in  Tab  e  104.     It  should 
fe  Se^i^  stu^^^       this  table  that  the  chief  markets  of  the  United 
sL?es  are  her^^^^^        and  the  countries  of  the  Western  ^em^^^^^^^ 
but  the  exports  even  to  these  became  so  smaU  m  1911  that  they 
were  included  in  "AE  other  manufactures. 

Table  m.-Exports  of  blankets  and  flannels  of  domestic  manufacture,  hy  countries, 

xjLox^is.  f         J  ^^^^  ^^^  United  States.  _^_^__ 


Country  of  destination. 


United  Kingdom 

Canada 

Nicaragua — 

Mexico 

Cuba. 

Cbile 

China 

Brazil 

Colombia 

Venezuela 

Alaska 


Iq96 


Hawaii ■-- 

Philippine  Islands.. 

Porto  Rico 

other  countries 


11,188 

8.W7 

324 

3,139 

60 

""265" 
1,300 
1,846 
1,607 

'i6,"6ii 


1900 


8,078 


$44, 176 

55,846 

96 

1,601 

2,284 


368 
1,761 

"16*921 


1905 


17,410 


f 1.280 

6,003 

20 

935 

1,325 

45,258 

15,905 

160 

3,643 

160 

20,035 

7,612 

60 

21,615 

6,817 


19101 


SI, 397 

6,452 

2.495 

2,509 

2,318 

23,967 

9,899 

486 

114 

791 

36,179 

14,494 

12,114 

556 

6,489 


I  Included  in  "  All  other  manulactures  of"  alter  1910. 


Production  of  lUnlcets  in  fie    United  ^^^""f^]^^^^ 
tinctlv  a  product  of  the  carded  woolen  branch  of  wool  manufactures. 
Thf  prXction  of  them  in  the  United  States  is  shown  m  Table  105. 

Table  105  -Production  of  blankets  in  the  woolen  industry  of  the  United  StaUs,  1899 

and  1909. 


AU-wool  blankets: 

Square  yards 

Value 

Cotton  mixed  blankets: 

Square  yards 

Value 

CSotton  warp  blankets: 

Square  yards 

Value 

Cotton  warp  horse  blankets: 

Square  yards 

Value 


4,402,330 
$2,563,019 

1,717,758 
$650,714 

8,903,680 
$2,505,409 

4,197,932 
$1,674,509 


5.266,643 
$2,274,774 

1,530,696 
$561,649 

11,107,104 
$2,241,342 

6,702,315 
$1,252,824 


Per  cent  of 
increase, 
1899-1909. 


116.41 
12.67 

12.22 
15.86 

119.81 
1L78 

126.38 
33.66 


1  Decrease. 


During  the  decade  from  1899  to  1909  the  production  of  all-wool 
blankets  declined  in  quantity  16.41  per  cent,  but  increased  in  value 
12.67  per  cent.  Cotton  mixed  blankets,  i.  e.,  blankets  made  from 
merino  yam,  increased  in  quantity  during  the  decade  12.22  per  cent 
and  in  value  15.86  per  cent.  Cotton  warp  blankets  dechned  in  pro- 
duction during  the  decade  19.84  per  cent  and  increased,  on  the  con- 
trary, in  value  11.78  per  cent.  Cotton  warj)  horse  blankets  dechned 
in  quantity  26.38  per  cent,  but  increased  in  value  33.66  per  cent. 
This  decrease  in  quantity  is  no  doubt  in  part  due  to  the  extensive  use 
of  the  automobile.  In  general.  Table  105  shows  that  while  the  num- 
ber of  square  yards  of  blankets  produced  dechned  during  the  decade, 
there  was  a  general  increase  in  the  price  per  square  yard  of  those  that 
were  produced.  This  increase  in  price,  however,  does  not  necessarily 
mean  that  the  quality  of  the  blankets  improved;  it  may  merely 
mean  that  there  was  a  general  rise  in  price,  and  due  to  this  rise  in 
price  there  was  a  falling  off  in  consumption. 

Production  of  blankets  in  the  United  Kingdom, — In  1907  there  were 
produced  in  the  United  Kingdom  3,115,000  pairs  of  blankets,  valued 
at  $7,056,425.  The  cliief  center  of  production  of  these  blankets  is 
near  Dewsbury,  and  Batley,  in  the  Colne  Valley,  which  is  the  center 
of  shoddy  production. 

Commerce  of  leading  countries  in  blankets, — ^Table  106  shows  the 
imports  and  exports  of  certain  leading  foreign  countries  in  blankets 
and  traveling  rugs.  Traveling  rugs  are  included  here  because  they 
are  so  classified  in  the  statistics  of  certain  foreign  countries. 

Table  106. — Imports  and  exports  of  blankets  and  traveling  rugs  for  leading  countries  in 

1909  and  1910. 


1909 

1910 

Country. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Quantity. 

Value 

United  States 

Pounds. 
28,864 

I  $25, 928 

Pounds. 

1  $49,351 

1,353,125 

747,752 

114,746 

Pounds. 
43,113 

< 125, 637 
22,701 
26,455 
73,791 

$45,995 
76,253 
15,054 
12,506 

6  31,458 

Pounds. 

$69,031 

2,170,435 

855,762 

132,255 

United  Kingdom*. . . 

8  648,888 

1,725,540 

242,726 

•962,824 

2,102,307 

279,764 

France. ...." 

10,141 
38,140 
78,109 

6,747 

18,030 

6  27,101 

Italy 

Canada 

1  Including  flannels.  M 

'Imports  for  1910  in  square  yards;  exports  do  not  include  traveling  rugs,  coverlets,  and  wrappers,  as 
follows:  1909,  number,  1,858,572;  value,  $2,448,093.    1910,  square  yards,  2,260,600;  value,  $1,056,000. 
»  Pairs. 

*  Square  yards. 
6  Values  include  90  bed  comforters  ($241)  in  1909;  146  bed  comforters  ($261)  in  1910. 

FLANNELS   FOR   UNDERWEAB. 

Flannels  defined. — Flannels  are  loosely  woven  fabrics  made  either 
from  woolen  or  French  spun  worsted  yarns.  The  yarn  necessary  in 
th|ir  making  must  be  shghtly  twisted  and  have  an  open  structure, 
tlie  object  being  to  produce  a  soft,  springy,  elastic  fabric.  Formerly 
flannels  were  made  entirely  of  woolen  yams,  but  within  recent  yeara 
t^e  lofty  French  spun  worsted  yarn  has  been  found  to  be  particularly 
Adapted  to  making  them".  In  the  finishing  room  flannels  are  only 
shghtly  fulled;  that  is,  just  enough  to  bring  out  the  wool  effect  and 


142 


EBPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOABD  OK  SCHEDULE  K. 


remove  tlie  thread  structure.  Flannels  then  have  a  nap  raised  on  the 
surface  by  the  process  of  teaslin^.  This  nap  is  sometimes  sheared, 
but  generaUy  pressed  flat  oa  the  face  of  the  cloth. 

Boies  of  duty  onjlanndfor  underwear, — Flannels  for  underwear  are 
made  dutiable  by  the  present  tariff  under  three  different  para^aphs, 
viz,  379,  381,  and  378.  In  the  first  place  those  flannels  valued  at  50 
cents  or  less  per  pound  are  dutiable  under  paragraph  379,  as  foUows: 

Valued  not  more  than  40  cents  per  pound,  22  cents  per  pound  and  30  per  cent: 
talued  more  than  40  and  not  more  than  50  cents  per  pound,  33  cents  per  pound  ana 
35  per  cent. 

At  this  point  flannels  for  underwear  are  taken  out  of  paragraph 
379  and  made  dutiable  under  paragraph  381  by  the  provision: 

Flannels  composed  wholly  or  in  part  of  wool,  valued  at  above  50  cents  per  pound, 
shall  be  classified  and  pay  the  same  duty  as  women's  and  children's  dress  goods, 
coatings,  linings,  Italian  cloths,  and  goods  of  similar  character  and  description  provided 
by  this  section. 

On  flannels,  therefore,  valued  at  over  50  cents  per  pound  (and 
weighing  4  ounces  or  less  per  square  yard)  tiie  rates  of  duty  are: 

Valued  more  than  50  and  not  more  than  70  cents  per  pound,  11  cents  per  square 
yard  and  50  per  cent;  valued  above  70  cents  per  pound,  11  cents  per  square  yard  and 
55  per  cent. 

Finally,  flannels  for  underwear  valued  at  more  than  50  cents  per 
pound  and  weighing  more  than  4  ounces  to  the  square  yard  are  made 
dutiable  under  paragraph  378  by  the  proviso  in  paragraph  381, 
which  reads: 

That  on  all  the  forejgoing  weighing  over  4  ounces  per  square  yard  the  duty  shall  be 
the  same  as  imposed  by  this  schedSe  on  cloths. 

This  proviso,  therefore,  makes  all  flannels  for  underwear  valued 
over  50  cents  per  pound  and  weighing  over  4  ounces  per  square  yard 
dutiable  as  follows: 

Valued  more  than  50  and  not  more  than  70  cents  per  pound,  44  cents  per  pound  and 
SO  per  cent;  valued  more  than  70  cents  per  pound,  44  cents  per  pound  and  55  pei  cent. 

Compensatory  duties  on  fianneh. — There  are  four  different  com- 
pensatory rates  of  duty  levied  on  flannels  for  underwear.  Flannels 
valued  at  40  cents  or  less  per  pound  pay  22  cents  per  pound,  on  tlie 
assumption  that  tlie  domestic  manufacturer  of  similar  flannels  has 
to  pay,  because  of  the  tariff,  22  cents  more  for  the  material  used  in  1 
pound  of  flannel  than  his  foreign  competitor.  For  similar  reasons,  33 
cents  per  pound  is  levied  on  fknnels  valued  over  40  and  not  over  50 
cents  per  pound.  On  flannels  valued  over  50  cents  per  pound  tho 
compensatory  rate  of  duty  is  either  44  cents  per  pound  or  11  cents 
per  square  yard,  the  latter  being  applicable  to  flannels  weighing  4 
ounces  or  less  per  square  yard;  the  former  to  flannels  weigliing  over 
4  ounces  to  the  square  yard.  If  all  flannels  dutiable  at  1 1  cents  per 
square  yard  weipied  4  ounces  and  no  less,  the  compensatory  duty 
would  be  precisely  the  same  as  44  cents  per  pound.  Forty-four  cents 
per  pound,  on  the  one  hand,  is  four  times  the  duty  on  greasy  wool  of 
the  first  class  (11  cents),  and,  on  the  other  hand,  1 1  conts  on  a  square 
yard  which  weighs  4  ounces  is  1 1  cents  on  one-fourth  of  a  pound,  or 
44  cents  on  the  pound.  The  duty  of  11  cents  per  square  yard  on 
goods  weighing  less  than  4  ouncos  per  square  yard  is  more  tlian  44 
cents  per  pound.  For  example,  the  compensatory  duty  on  flannels 
weighmg  2  ounces  per  square  yard  is  equal  to  88  cents  per  pound. 


BEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD   ON   SCHEDUI^   K. 


148 


Both  of  the  provisos  affecting  flannels  for  underwear  raise  the  duties 
above  those  found  in  paragraph  379.  In  absence  of  the  proviso  in 
379,  flannels  valued  over  50  cents  per  pound  would  pay  a  duty  of  33 
cents  per  pound  and  40  per  cent;  under  the  proviso,  they  pay  either 
11  cents  per  square  yard  and  50  or  55  per  cent,  or,  when  they  weigh 
over  4  ounces  to  the  square  yard,  44  cents  per  pound  and  50  or  55  per 
cent.  ^ 

^  Imports  of  flannels  in  191L— The  imports  of  flannels  for  underwear 
mto  the  Umted  States  for  the  fiscal  year  ending  June  30  1911  is 
given  in  detail  in  Table  107.  The  effect  of  the  provisos  should'be 
particularly  noted. 

-Imports  oJjlannehJoT  underwear,  into  the  United  States  for  the  fiscal  year 

ending  June  SO,  1911. 


Table  107.- 


Rate  of  duty. 


Flannels  for  underwear: 

Valued  at  not  more  than  40 

cents  per  pound. 
Valued  at  more  than  40  and  not 

more  than  50  cents  per  pound. 
Valued  at  above  60  and  not 

above  70  cents  per  pound. 
Valued    above    70   cents   per 

W pound, 
eighing  over  4  ounces  per 
equare  yard- 
valued  at  above  50  and  not 
above  70  cents  per  pound. 
Valued  at  over  70  cents  per 
pound. 


Total,  flannels,  etc. 


22   cents   per   pound 

plus  30  per  cent. 
33   cents   per   pound 

plus  35  per  cent. 
11   cents   per  square 

yard  plus  50  per  cent. 
11  cents  per   square 

yard  plus  55 per  cent. 

44  cents  i>er  pound 
plus  50  per  cent. 

44  cents  per  pound 
plus  55  per  cent. 


Quanti- 
ties. 


Values. 


Pounds. 
18.00 

2.20 

I  108.00 
'27,801.00 


3,318.00 
89,359.14 


Revenue 
derived. 


Ad  valo- 
rem rate 
(com- 
puted). 


SG.80 

1.00 

56.00 

8,434.00 


2,030.50 
75,501.00 


86,029.30 


IG.0O 

1.08 

39.88 

7,606.81 

2,475.16 
80,843.57 


91,062.50 


88.24 

108.00 

71.21 

91.26 

121.90 
107.08 


105.85 


*  Square  yards. 

Flannels  valued  at  not  more  than  50  cents  per  pound,— Tahle  107 
shows  that  a  negligible  quantity  of  flannels  valued  at  not  more  than 
50  cents  per  pound  was  imported  into  the  United  States  in  1911.  The 
same  condition  prevailed  in  1909  and  1910.  Any  conclusions  based 
on  the  few  pounds  that  have  been  imported  would  be  misleading. 
Ihe  smallness  of  importation  is  due  both  to  the  decline  in  the  use  of 
flannel  for  underwear  and  the  high  duties. 

tunnels  impoHed  under  dress-goods  duties,— Tohle  107  shows  that 
me  imports  of  flannels  for  underwear  valued  above  50  cents  per  pound 

unlr/ll  V^  ^  ''''''5^^  """^  ^^^!  P^^  ^^"^^^  y^^^'  Which  are  dutiable 
averaU  v«fc  rates  of  paragraph  381,  are  also  small.     The 

70  n!f  ?  ^  P^^  ^:?^^^?  y^^^  ^^  flannels  valued  over  50  and  not  over 
Im^n^fA^^^L^.        ^^^  weighing  4  ounces  or  less  per  square  yard 

Sua!  W  ^  T  ^^  r^^?  ^^^  ^^^^^  ^^  1^1^)-  Tlie  average  value 
per  square  yard  on  flannels  valued  over  70  cents  per  pound  and  weigh- 

m  C9nu''t^  Zhf  P^^^sq^are  yard  imported  m  1911  was  30  celts 
ti^m^roimfx,.!!  ^'  ^.^^  compensatory  duty  on  these  two  valua- 
oUhf^^^^^^^^  P-  cent  and  36.26  per  cent 

weihW  nx.^'^r'^''^  """^''^  ^^^^^  duties.-The  imports  of  flannels 
^i^d   1  rr     ^V^^^^s  per  square  yard  and  valued  over  50  cents  per 

KiiiaU  Th?  ^7^^^'  ^?^'  ^^^^  ^^^^^  ^^^^  ^^^  ^ther  classf  is 
«*iso  small.    The  average  price  per  poun^  of  flannels  weighmg  over 


144 


EEPOBT  OF  TABITF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDrU!  K. 


BEPOHT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDTJLE  K. 


145 


4  ounces  per  square  yard  and  valued  over  50  and  not  oyer  70  cents  per 
jHmnd  imported  in  1911  was  61  cents  (61  cents  in  1910).  The  avw- 
Le  price  V  pound  of  flannels  weighing  oyer  *  «"°«««,  Pf/ *2««'-« 
vard  and  v^ued  at  over  70  cents  per  yound  imported  in  1911  was  82 
^nte  (87  cents  in  1910).  The  compensatory  duty  on  the  former  cIms 
was  71.90  per  cent  of  the  value  of  the  flannels  imported,  and  on  the 
latter  52.08  per  cent  of  the  value  of  the  flannels  imported. 

ImvorU  offiannelfor  representat%ve  years.— The  imports  of  flannels 
for  underwear  into  the  United  States  for  certam  representative  years 
is  given  in  Table  108. 

Table  108  —Importt  of  tUmntU  Jot  underwtar  mtmd/or  comumption  into  the  United 

States. 


Quantity. 

Value. 

Revenue 
derived. 

Ad  valo- 
rem rate 
of  duty 
(com- 
puted). 

Fiscal  year  ending  June  30— 

189&— Pounds  i 

1900— Pounds 

Square  yards 

tOi\K "Prmnrlo ....-•- 

196,326 

43,508 

468 

53,653 

5,153 

127,176 

38,379 

92,697 

27,909 

$127,285 
\    36,677 

V    46,271 

\  122,894 

}    86,029 

$60,654 
38,982 

49,538 

127,645 

91,062 

47.65 
106.29 

107.06 

Square  yards 

103.87 

lWll/~^i  ouiiua ...•.-•..----•-- ••- 

Dquare  y arua 

1911— Pounds 

STquare  yards 

105.86 

1  Under  the  Wilson  bill. 


The  increased  importation  in  1896  is  due  to  the  removal  of  the  com- 
pensat^  duties  in  the  act  of  1894.  In  any  case  the  miports  of 
iannels  &  not  large  and  the  computed  ad  valorem  rate  of  duty  under 
the  acts  of  1897  and  1909  was  over  100  per  cent.  „     ,„^Hn,,  nf 

Prodmtwn  of  flannels  in  the  Umted  Sto<e*.-The  product,ion  of 
flannels  for  undefwear  in  the  United  States  is  presented  in  Table  109. 

Table  109. -ProdMtion  offiamuUfor  vnderw^inthe  woolen  industry  of  the  United 

Statu,  1899  and  1909. 


All-wool  flannels: 

Square  yards 

Value  ....«»•.•--'-•••••**■""" 

Cotton  mixed  flannels: 

Square  yards. 

Value 

C!otton-warp  Domett  flannels  and  shirtings: 

Square  yards 

Value 


3,399,913 
$.♦52,978 

7,063.572 
$1,308,309 

4.571,765 
$911,967 


9,324,720 
$2,344,559 

6,217,094 
$1,284,678 

4,555,013 
$976,465 


Per  cent  of 
increase, 

1899-1909. 


163.54 
159.35 

13.62 
1.85 

.37 
16.52 


1  Decrease. 


Flannels  are  primarily  a  product  of  the  ^a^^^^Y^^^/^^./^^^^f^^ 
although  some  French-spun  worsted  yarns  are  used  in  feir  making. 
The  Deduction  of  aH-wool  flannels  Ij  the  woolen  industry  of  the 
IMtTd  States  dechned  during  the  decade  63  54  per  cent  m  quantity 
aiJd  59.35  per  cent  in  value.  ^Cotton-mixed  flannels  show  an  increase 
of  13.62  POT  cent  in  quantity  and  only  a  very  shght  mcrease  of  l.»a 


per  cent  in  value.  Cotton-warp  flannels  remained  practically  tha 
same  in  quantity  and  dechned  in  value  6.52  per  cent.  The  decline 
in  the  production  of  flannels  is  largely  ascribable  to  the  substitution 
of  knitted  and  cotton  for  flannel  underwear.  The  former  has  in- 
creased rapidly  in  production,  because  the  general  public  have  found 
the  meshed  and  knitted  underclothing  made  in  part  of  wool  or  the 
woven  cotton  undergarments  more  adapted  to  their  tastes  than  the 
flannel  underwear.  This  is  a  good  illustration  of  the  change  of 
public  taste  in  the  matter  of  textiles.  The  flannel  industry,  having 
lost  its  control  of  the  underwear  market,  has  turned  its  attention  to 
making  fine  flannels  for  outer  garments.  These  are  classified  in  the 
tariff  act  as  dress  goods. 

Flannels  in  the  united  Kingdom. — ^The  production  of  flannels  and 
delaines  in  the  United  Eangdom  in  1907  was  49,749,000  yards, 
valued  at  $8,530,975.  The  United  Kingdom  exported  in  1909  flan- 
nels and  delaines  amounting  to  7,500,400  yards,  valued  at  $1,382,782; 
and  in  1910,  8,433,000  yards,  valued  at  $1,579,116. 

Paragraphs  380  and  381.— DRESS  GOODS. 

380.  On  women's  and  children's  dress  goods,  coat  linings,  italian  cloths,  and  goods 
of  similar  descrii)tion  and  character  of  which  the  warp  consists  wholly  of  cotton  or  other 
vegetable  material,  with  the  remainder  of  the  fabric  composed  wholly  or  in  part  of 
wool,  valued  at  not  exceeding  fifteen  cents  per  square  yard,  the  duty  shall  be  seven 
cents  per  square  yard ;  valued  at  more  than  fifteen  cents  per  square  yard,  the  duty  shall 
be  eight  cents  per  square  yard ;  and  in  addition  thereto  on  all  the  foregoing  valued  at  not 
above  seventy  cents  per  pound,  fifty  per  centum  ad  valorem;  valued  above  seventy 
cents  per  pound,  fifty-five  per  centum  ad  valorem:  Provided,  That  on  all  the  foregoing, 
weighmg  over  four  ounces  per  square  yard,  the  rates  of  duty  shall  be  five  per  centum 
less  than  those  imposed  by  this  schedule  on  cloths. 

381.  On  women's  and  children's  dress  goods,  coat  linings,  italian  cloths,  bunting, 
and  goods  of  similar  description  of  character  composed  wholly  or  in  part  of  wool,  and 
not  specially  provided  for  in  this  section,  the  duty  shall  be  eleven  cents  per  square 
yard ;  and  in  addition  thereto  on  all  the  f  ore.^oing  valued  at  not  above  seventy  cents  per 
pound,  fifty  per  centum  ad  valorem;  valued  above  seventy  cents  per  pound,  fifty-five 
per  centum  ad  valorem:  Provided,  That  on  all  the  foregoing,  weighing  over  four  ounces 
per  square  yard,  the  duty  shall  be  the  same  as  imposed  by  this  schedule  on  cloths. 

Paragraphs  380  and  381  may  be  properly  considered  together,  since 
they  provide  for  those  fabrics  known  as  dress  goods.  The  distinction 
between  the  two  paragraphs  is  that  goods  dutiable  under  380  must 
have  a  warp  consisting  **  wholly  of  cotton  or  other  vegetable  material 
with  the  remainder  of  the  fabric  composed  wholly  or  in  part  of  wool/' 
and  that  goods  dutiable  under  381  may  have  either  the  warp  or 
fining  composed  "wholly  or  in  part  of  wool."  The  former  must 
have  a  cotton  warp  and  may  have  a  fiUing  either  wholly  or  in  part 
of  wool ;  the  latter  may  have  either  the  warp,  the  filhng,  or  both,  com- 
posed wholly  or  in  part  of  wool.  All-wool  dress  goods  are  dutiable 
under  paragraph  381. 

Nature  of  dress  goods. — Dress  goods  is  a  general  term  used  to  desig- 
nate light  fabrics  made  wholly  or  in  part  of  wool  or  worsted  and  used 
for  women's  and  children's  gowns  and  frocks.  The  finest  dress  goods 
represent  some  of  the  very  best  work  in  textile  art.  In  producing 
these  goods  in  France  and  the  United  Kingdom  the  greatest  care  is 
taken,  especially  m  the  finishing  room,  to  get  brilliant  and  lustrous 
ettects.  On  the  contrary,  many  very  cheap,  unsubstantial  fabrics 
are  turned  out  by  mills  in  great  quantities  and  put  on  the  market  as 
clress  goods.  Dress  goods  are,  as  a  rule,  light  in  weight,  but  in  com- 
position, quahty,  and  structure  they  vary  more  widely  than  any  other 

3208O'~H.  Doc.  342,  62-2,  vol  1 ^10 


146 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  OK  SCHEDUUE  K. 


147 


3 


wool  or  worsted  goods.  The  English  stuffs,  produced  extensively  m 
Bradford,  consist  of  a  cotton  warp  and  a  worsted  or  mohair  tiiiing. 
In  making  such  goods  from  hard-spun  worsted  yarn  the  United  hang- 
dom  is  a  leader ;  France,  on  the  contrary,  excels  in  the  production  of 
the  soft,  fuller  dress  goods,  made  from  the  lofty  or  elastic  mule-spun 
yarns.  A  few  of  the  familiar  dress  goods  are  mentioned  below. 
Fiannels  for  outer  garments  are  a  soft,  loosely  woven  cloth  made 
from  woolen  or  French-spun  worsted  yam.  Coat  linings  are ,  as  a 
rule,  made  with  a  cotton  warp  and  an  alpaca  or  worsted  filling. 
The  sateen  weave,  i.  e.,  the  weave  which  throws  either  the  warp  or 
weft  thieads  predominantly  on  tlie  surface,  is  often  used.  Itahan 
cloth  is  a  lining  and  is  made  nearly  always  with  cotton  warp  and 
worsted  weft.  An  alpaca  is  a  fabric  in  which  the  weft  is  made  from 
the  hair  of  the  alpaca  goat.  Henrietta  is  a  cloth  made  from  a  silk 
warp  and  a  fine  worsted  weft.  Orleans  cloth  is  made  from  a  fine 
cotton  warp  and  worsted  fiUing.  A  briUiantme  is  a  cotton  warp 
fabric  with  a  luster  or  demiluster  weft  predominatmg.  Taffeta  is  a 
term  used  generally  in  connection  with  silk  fabrics,  but  also  designates 
a  fine  cloth  with  silk  warp  and  worsted  fiUing.  It  is  even  loosely  used 
to  designate  cheaper  goods  of  cotton  and  wool.  Bunting  is  a  light, 
loosely  woven  fabric  made  wholly  or  in  part  of  wool  and  used  for  light 
garments  and  flags.  Panama  is  a  fight,  loosely  woven  dress  goods, 
either  aU  or  in  part  of  hard  worsted  yarn.  Light  serges  are  also 
classed  as  dress  goods.  The  distinction  between  the  numerous 
varieties  of  dress  goods  is  highly  technical.  It  is  important  to  know 
that  they  are  fight  in  weight  and  are  produced  m  many  yaned  and 
fancy  effects  bjr  the  use  of  different  colors,  weaves,  combinations  of 
materials,  and  sizes  of  yams.  r«i     ^    .  j-  •  •        tit. 

Bates  of  duty  on  cotUrrwwatf  dress  goods,— The  first  (hvisioA  of  fab- 
rics for  duty  purposes  is  found  in  the  proviso  at  the  end  of  para^aph 
380,  which  fimits  the  duties  in  that  paragraph  to  goods  weighmg  4 
ounces  or  less  per  square  yard.  The  next  provision  to  be  noted 
divides  these  fabrics  for  the  purpose  of  levying  the  compensatory 
duties  into  those  valued  at  15  cents  or  less  per  square  yard  and  those 
valued  over  15  cents  per  square  yard.  On  the  former  the  compensa- 
tory rate  is  fixed  at  7  and  on  the  latter  at  8  cents  per  square  yard. 
Finally,  for  the  purpose  of  fixing  the  ad  valorem  duties  each  one  of 
these  groups  is  further  subdivided  into  fabrics  valued  at  70  cents  or 
less  per  pound  and  those  valued  at  over  70  cents  per  pound.  On  the 
former  class  the  ad  valorem  rate  is  50  per  cent;  on  the  latter,  55  per 
cent.  We  may  therefore  have  dress  goods  paying  a  compensatery 
rate  of  7  cents  per  square  yard,  because  valued  at  15  cents  or  less  per 
square  yard  and  either  50  or  65  per  cent,  depending  upon  whether 
ffiey  are  valued  at  70  or  less  cents  or  over  70  cents  per  pound.  In 
Mke  manner  goods  may  pay  a  compensatory  rate  of  8  cents  per  square 
yard,  because  valued  over  15  cents  per  square  yard  and  either  50  or 
65  per  cent,  according  to  their  per  pound  value. 

The  rates  of  duty  up  to  this  point,  then,  are  as  foUows: 
Breas  goods  with  cotton  warp  weighing  4  oimcea  or  lees  per  square  yard  • 
Valued  not  exceeding  15  centa  per  square  yard—  -,      ■,  r« 

Valued  not  above  70  cent3  per  pound,  7  cents  per  square  >^rd  and  50  per  cent. 

Valued  above  70  centa  per  pound,  7  cents  per  tjquare  yard  and  55  per  cent. 
Valued  above  15  centa  per  square  yard —  j      j  r^  *, 

Valued  not  above  70  cents  per  pound,  8  cents  per  square  yard  and  50  per  c^nt. 

Valued  above  70  centa  per  pound,  8  centa  per  square  yard  and  o5  per  cent. 


\ 


Compensatory  rates  of  7  and  8  cents  per  square  yard. — ^The  com- 
pensatory rates  of  7  and  8  cents  per  square  yard  are  intended  to  com- 
pensate the  domestic  manufacturer  for  the  increase  in  the  price  of 
Gs  wool,  due  to  the  tariff,  wliich  he  uses  in  making  cotton-warp 
dress  goods.  In  these  goods  all  the  yams  running  lengthwise  in  the 
fabric  are  of  cotton  on  which  no  compensation  is  necessary  and  the 
yarn  running  across  the  fabric  may  be  in  whole  or  in  part  of  wool. 
Seven  cents  per  square  yard  is  the  compensation  given  the  domestic 
manufacturer  who  makes  goods  similar  to  those  valued  abroad  at  15 
cents  or  less  per  square  yard.  If  he  uses  2  ounces  of  wool  in  each 
square  yard,  the  7  cents  per  square  yard  compensation  is  equal  to 
66  cents  per  pound,  i.  e.,  he  is  compensated  on  the  theory  that  he 
used  5^  pounds  of  greasy  wool  for  each  pound  of  wool  in  the  cotton- 
warp  goods.  If  in  these  goods  the  filling  were  heavier  than  the  warp 
and  as  much  as  3  ounces  of  wool  was  used  in  each  square  yard  of 
fabric,  the  7  cents  per  square  yard  would  be  equal  to  37 J  cents  per 
pound,  so  that  in  taking  the  extreme  possibihty  of  wool  in  cotton- 
warp  dress  goods,  the  compensation  is  still  only  6§  cents  less  than  the 
maximum  compensation  allowed  on  cloth  (44  cents  per  pound). 
If  we  take  the  other  extreme  and  assume  that  there  is  only  1  ounce  of 
wool  in  a  given  square  yard  of  dress  goods,  the  compensation  of  7 
cents  per  square  yard  is  equal  to  112  cents  per  pound.  The  same 
observations  apply  in  general  to  the  8  cents  per  square  yard  compensa- 
tion levied  on  cotton-warp  dress  goods  valued  over  15  cents  per 
square  yard.  If  these  goods  contain  1  ounce  of  wool  to  the  square 
yard,  the  compensation  is  equal  to  128  cents  per  pound ;  if  they  con- 
tain 2  ounces  to  the  square  yard,  the  compensation  is  equal  to  64 
cents  per  pound;  if  they  contain  3  ounces  to  the  square  yard,  the 
compensation  is  equal  to  42  §  cents  per  pound.  It  should  be  remem- 
bered that  under  the  discussion  of  cloths,  44  cents  per  pound 
compensation  was  found  to  be  the  maximum  compensation  needed. 

Rates  under  the  proviso  of  380. — The  proviso  at  tne  end  of  paragraph 
380  reads : 

That  on  all  the  foregoing,  weighing  over  4  ounces  per  square  yard,  the  rates  of 
duty  shall  be  5  per  cent  lees  than  those  imposed  by  this  schedule  on  cloths. 

By  this  provision  all  dress  goods  with  cotton  warp  weighing  over 
4  ounces  per  square  yard  are  m^de  dutiable  at  5  per  cent  less  than 
the  rates  on  cloths  in  paragraph  378.     These  rates  are  as  follows: 

Dress  goods  with  cotton  warp  weighing  over  4  ounc^  per  square  yard:  Valued  not 
more  than  40  cents  per  pound,  33  cents  per  pound  and  50  per  cent  less  5  per  cent: 
valued  more  than  40  and  not  more  than  70  cents  per  pound,  44  cents  per  pound  and 
50  per  cent  less  5  per  cent;  valued  mcare  than  70  cents  per  pound,  44  centa  per  pound 
and  55  per  cent  less  5  per  cent. 

In  these  duties  the  only  recognition  of  the  fact  that  the  fabrics 
dutiable  under  them  are  all  but  universally  half  cotton  and  some- 
times more  than  half  cotton  is  the  5  per  cent  subtracted  from  the 
whole  duty.  This  was  one  of  the  reductions  made  in  the  revision  of 
1909,  but  its  effect  was  for  all  practical  purposes  nothing.  The 
compensatory  duties  here  assume  that  in  cotton-warp  dress  goods 
valued  over  40  cents  per  pound  there  is  used  4  pounds  of  greasy  wool 
of  the  first  class. 

Rates  of  duty  on  dress  goods  wkoUy  or  in  part  of  wool. — The  compen- 
satory duties  m  paragraph  381  are  higher  Decause  the  goods  dutiable 
there  may  be  of  all  wool.     They  may  also,  it  should  be  noted,  be 


148 


BEPOET  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON   SCHEDXTLE  K. 


m 


almost  entirely  of  cotton  mth  a  small  portion  of  wool  in  either  warp 
or  filling.  But  the  theory  of  the  compensatoiy  duties  in  Schedule 
K — and  this  must  be  kept  in  mind — is  to  give  the  highest  compensa- 
tion necessary  on  any  goods  that  may  be  imported  under  a  paragraph 
and  allow  the  domestic  manufacturer  of  the  cheaper  goods  to  benefit 
from  the  added  protection  due  to  the  excess  of  actual  over  necessary 
compensation. 

The  rates  of  duty  on  dress  goods  weighing  4  ounces  or  less  per  square 
yard  are  as  follows : 

Dress  goods,  wholly  or  in  part  of  wool  weighing  4  ounces  or  less  per  square  yard: 
Valued  not  above  70  cents  per  pound,  11  cents  per  square  yard  and  50  percent;  valued 
above  70  cents  per  pound,  11  cents  per  square  yard  and  55  per  cent. 

Compensatory  rate  of  11  cents  per  square  yard. — The  compensatory 
rate  of  1 1  cents  per  square  yard  on  all  dress  goods  weigliing  4  ounces 
per  square  yard  (and  no  less)  is  precisely  the  same  as  the  duty  of  44 
cents  per  pound  already  explained  under  paragraph  378.  As  in  the 
latter  case,  it  is  assumed  mat  it  requires  4  pounds  of  greasy  wool 
of  the  first  class  to  make  1  pound  of  clotli.  so  in  the  former  it  is  assumed 
that  it  requires  1  pound  of  greasy  wool  of  the  first  class  to  make  a 
square  yard  of  goods  weighing  one-fourth  of  a  pound.  The  duty  on 
greasy  wool  of  class  one  being  11  cents  per  pound,  the  compensatory 
duty  in  one  case  is  stated  as  44  cents  per  pound  and  in  the  other  at 
1 1  cents  per  square  yard  weigliing  4  ounces.  The  compensatory  duty 
on  the  square  yard,  however,  is  only  equal  to  the  44  cents  per  pound 
in  paragraph  378  when  the  goods  weigh  the  maximum  amount  of  4 
ounces  per  square  yard.  On  dress  goods  weighing  less  than  4  ounces 
per  square  yard,  the  compensatory  duty  does  not  adjust  itself  as  it 
does  when  it  is  levied  on  weight,  but  these  goods  continue  to  pay  the 
same  compensatory  duty  that  goods  weighing  4  ounces  per  square 
yard  do.  Dress  goods,  then,  weighing  3  ounces  per  square  yard  pay 
a  compensatory  duty  based  on  me  assumption  that  it  reauires  16 
ounces  of  greasy  wool  of  class  one  to  make  3  ounces  of  fabric;  or, 
stating  it  another  way,  the  greasy  wool  making  an  all-wool  goods  of 
3  ounces  should  shrink  from  greasy  wool  to  goods  81 J  per  cent  if 
the  duty  just  compensated.  All-wool  dress  goods  weigliing  2  ounces 
per  sauare  yard  pay  a  compensatory  duty  based  on  the  assumption 
that  the  wool  used  in  their  making  shrunt  87i  per  cent  from  greasy 
wool  to  cloth.  Due  to  the  fact  that  the  compensatory  duty  on  dress 
goods  changes  from  the  rate  per  poimd  applied  to  cloths  under  para- 
graph 378  to  the  rate  per  square  yard,  the  duty  on  dress  goods  weigh- 
mg  less  than  4  ounces  per  square  yard  is  more  man  44  cents  per  pound 
and  therefore  the  actual  is  greater  tlian  necessary  compensation. 
The  compensatory  duties  on  dress  goods  weighing  less  than  4  ounces 
per  square  yard  is  liigher  than  that  on  cloth. 

In  discussing  the  compensatory  rates  it  has  been  assumed  up  to  this 
point  that  the  dress  goods  were  all  wool,  and  that  therefore  the  duties 
would  be  more  than  compensatory  only  when  the  goods  were  made  of 
wool  and  hair  shrinking  less  than  75  per  cent  from  greasy  wool  to 
finished  goods.  But  many  kinds  of  dress  goods  are  made  in  part  of 
cotton  and  other  materials  which  are  on  the  free  fist,  and  therefore  do 
Bot  need  to  be  compensated  for.  In  paragraph  381  the  compensatory 
duty  is  fixed  on  the  theory  not  only  that  the  goods  dutiable  under  it 
are  all  wool,  but  that  they  are  made  of  wool  shrinking  75  per  cent  from 
greasy  wool  to  finished  goods.    Many  of  the  fabrics,  however,  dutiable 


BEPOET  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


149 


1) 


\ 


r 


\ 


A* 


under  this  paragraph  are  in  part  of  cotton,  silk,  or  other  free  material, 
and  just  in  so  far  as  these  materials  are  present  in  the  goods  the  com- 
pensatory duty  is  more  than  a  compensation  to  the  manufacturer  who 
makes  similar  goods  in  the  United  States. 

Rates  under  the  proviso  of  381. — The  proviso  at  the  end  of  paragraph 
381  is  the  same  as  the  one  at  the  end  of  380,  except  the  whole  of  the 
rates  instead  of  5  per  cent  less  than  the  rates  on  cloths  in  paragraph 
378,  are  levied  on  all  dress  goods  wholly  or  in  part  of  woof  weighing 
over  4  ounces  per  square  yard.     These  rates  of  duty  are: 

Dress  goods  wholly  and  in  part  of  wool  weighing  over  4  ounces  per  square  yard: 
Valued  more  than  40  cents  per  pound,  33  cents  per  pound  and  50  per  cent;  valued  more 
than  40  and  not  more  than  70  cents  per  pound,  44  cents  per  pound  and  50  per  cent; 
valued  more  than  70  cents  per  pound,  44  cents  per  pound  and  55  per  cent. 

Dress  goods  provisos. — ^As  already  stated,  both  paragraphs  380  and 
381  have  provisos  which  make  all  dress  goods  weighing  over  4  ounces 
per  square  yard  dutiable  under  the  rates  of  paragraph  378.  The  one 
m  paragraph  381  reads: 

That  on  all  the  foregoing  weighing  over  four  ounces  per  square  yard  the  duty  shall 
be  the  same  as  imposed  by  this  schedule  on  cloths. 

A  proviso  having  precisely  the  same  effect  as  this  one  is  found  in 
the  act  of  1867,  and  the  committee  that  framed  that  act  explained 
the  proviso  as  follows: 

The  proviso  in  relation  to  all  goods  weighing  four  ounces  and  over  per  square  yard 
is  inserted  to  prevent  cloakings  and  heavy  goods,  which  should  pay  duty  as  cloth, 
coming  in  at  a  less  duty  as  dress  goods  because  adapted  to  women's  and  children'^ 
wear. 

There  is,  however,  another  reason.  This  proviso  is  vitally  con- 
nected with  the  4  to  1  ratio  of  compensatory  duties.  The  com- 
pensatory rate  on  dress  goods  dutiable  under  paragraph  381  and 
weighing  4  ounces  or  less  per  sauare  yard  is  11  cents  per  square  yard. 
Assuming  that  all  goods  classea  here  weigh  4  ounces  per  square  yard, 
as  the  law  does,  and  remembering  that  the  rate  on  1  pound  of  un- 
washed wool  of  class  1  is  11  cents,  it  is  clear  that  11  cents  on  goods 
weighing  one-fourth  of  a  pound  per  square  yard  is  the  same  as  a  duty 
of  44  cents  per  pound  on  cloth.  This  proviso,  therefore,  prevents 
goods  weighing  over  4  ounces  per  square  yard  from  coming  m  under 
the  compensatory  rate  of  11  cents  per  square  yard  and  makes  them 
dutiable  under  a  paragraph  (378)  where  they  have  to  pay  the  full 
compensatory  rate,  based  on  the  theory  that  it  requires  4  pounds  of 
greasy  wool  of  class  1  to  make  a  pound,  of  cloth. 

Since  the  act  of  October  1,  1890,  two  paragraphs  have  been  devoted 
to  dress  goods,  both  of  which  have  had  identically  the  same  proviso 
at  the  end,  until  changed  in  the  act  of  August  5,  1909.  This  was  one 
of  the  few  changes  made  in  Schedule  K  at  that  time.  As  a  conces- 
sion to  those  who  contended  that  the  cotton  in  the  dress  goods 
dutiable  under  paragraph  381  needed  no  compensation  the  proviso 
was  made  to  read: 

That  on  all  the  foregoing  weighing  over  four  ounces  per  square  yard  the  rates  of 
duty  sHall  be  five  per  centum  less  than  those  imposed  by  this  schedule  on  cloths. 

Impor^  of  dress  goods  in  1911. —The  imports  of  dress  goods  into  the 
Umted  btatesfor  the  fiscal  year  ending  June  30,  1911,  are  shown  in 
1  able  110.  TTie  importation  under  each  classification  and  proviso  is 
here  given  and  should  be  noted  carefully. 


i\ 


150 

Tabls  110. 


BEPOBT  OF   TAMFF  BOABB  OK   SCHEDULE  K. 

-ImporU  of  drem  goods  into  the  United  States  for  the  fiscal  year  endifig 

June  30,  1911. 


BEPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDUUS  K. 


151 


Bates  o{  duty. 


]}ns8  ffoods,  women's  and  chil- 
Sren's  coat  It'xin^,  Italian  flUk$, 
and  goods  of  mmUar  descriptioH. 

The  warp  consisting  wholly  of 
cotton  or  other  vegetable  ma- 
terials, with  th«  remainder  of 
the  fabric  composed  wholly  or 
inpart  of  wool: 
Weighing  4  ounces  or  leas  per 
square  yard- 
Valued  at  not  exeee<3mc 
15  oouts   per  square 
yard- 
Not  above  70  cents 
per  pound. 

Above  70  cents  per 
pound. 

Valued  at  more  than  15 
cents  per  square  yaiti— 
Not  above  70  cents 
per  pound. 

Above  70  cents  per 
pound. 

Weighing  over  4  ounces  per 
square  yard — 

*  Valued  at  not  more  than 

40  cents  per  poimd. 

Valued  at  above  40  and 
not  above  70  cents  per 
pound 

Valued  at  over  70  cents 
per  poimd. 

Composed  wholly  or  in  part  of 
wool^ 
Weighing  4  ounces  or  less  per 
square  yard- 
Valued  at  not  aboi'e  70 
cents  per  pound. 

Valued  above  70  cents 
per  pound. 

Weighing  over  4  ounces  per 
square  yard — 
Value<l  at  not  mo»e  than 

41)  c«rits  per  jwund. 
Value<i  at  above  40  and 
not  above  70  cents  per 
pound. 
Valued  at  over  70  cents 
per  pound. 

Total  dress  goods,  etc 


7  oents  per  mtiare 

yard  plus  50  per 

cent. 
7  cents  per  square 

yttrdptuaSSper 

cent. 


8  cents  per  square 
yard  pas  SO  per 
cent. 

8  cents  per  square 
yard  plus  55  per 
cent. 


33  cents  per  poimd 
plus  50  per  cent 
minus  5  per  cent. 

44  cents  per  f>ound 
plus  50  per  cent 
minus  5  percent. 

44  cents  per  pound 
plus  55  per  cent 
miiim5|>ercent 


11  cents  per  square 

yard  plus  50  per 

cent. 
11  cents  per  square 

yard  pliB  55  per 

cent. 


33  cents  per  pound 
plus  50  per  cent. 

44  cents  per  povmd 
plus  50  per  cent. 

44  cents  per  pound 
plus  55  per  cent. 


Quantities. 


Values. 


Square  yards. 
7,247,614.26 


1,198,830.25 


301,805.50 


5,521,564.74 


» 918. 00 


$950,265.00 


172,278.00 


51,756.00 


1,124,685.50 


346.00 


137,837.05        23,066.00 


1252,042.50 


24,877.76 
10,400,807.97 

1186.00 
1279,347.21 


Revenue 
derived. 


Ad  val- 
orem rate 
(com- 
puted). 


i»82, 465.51 


178,671.02 


50,022.44 


1.0e0.3«2.22 


452. 14 


26,772.44 


228,932.05       224,971.07 


5,030.50 
2, 333, 034.. 32 

57.00 
162,114.00 


11,400,909.24  1,312,708.50 


5,251.80 
2,427,257.89 

80.88 
203,969.77 

1,338,390.18 


6,364,272.87 


6,498,616.36 


» Pounds. 


103.39 
103.71 

96.65 

94.  «8 

130.68 

116.07 

98.27 


104.40 
104.04 

157.68 
125.82 

101.96 


102. 11 


Imports  ajholyzed,— 'Table  110  sliows  that  only  in  a  few  cases  are  the 
computed  ad  valorem  rates  on  dress  goods  under  100  per  cent;  none 
are  under  90  per  cent,  and  from  this  they  range  upward  to  over  150 
per  cent.  These  computed  rates,  it  should  be  remembered,  mclude 
both  the  protective  ad  valorem  rates  and  the  compensatory  rates. 
Unlike  other  paragraphs  of  Schedule  K,  the  veiy  cheapest  dress  goods 
dutiable  under  these  paragraphs  show  a  large  importation.  The 
imports  of  cotton-warp  dress  goods  weighing  4  ounces  or  less  to  the 


\ 


r 


square  yard,  valued  not  exceedmg  15  cents  per  square  yard  and  not 
over  70  cents  per  pound,  in  1911  was  7,247,614  square  j^ards,  on 
which  a  duty  was  paid  equal  to  103.39  per  cent  of  their  value; 
63.39  per  cent  of  this  was  compensatory  duty  and  50  per  cent  pro- 
tective duty.  The  lowest  duties  under  these  paragraphs  are  on  cotton- 
warp  dress  goods  weighing  4  ounces  or  less  per  square  yard,  valued 
over  15  cents  per  square  yard  and  over  70  cents  per  pound.  On  the 
5,521,565  square  vards  imported  in  1911,  the  protective  duty  was 
55  per  cent  and  tne  compensatory  duty  39.28  per  cent  of  the  value 
of  tiie  goods  imported.  The  proviso  which  makes  cotton-warp  dress 
goods  w^eighing  over  4  ounces  per  square  yard  dutiable  at  5  per  cent 
less  than  cloth,  raises  the  rate.  Under  this  proviso  the  few  fabrics 
valued  at  40  cents  or  less  imported  in  1911  paid  130.68  per  cent  duty. 
The  largest  importation  in  1911  (also  in  1909  and  1910)  is  of  dress 
goods  made  w^holly  or  in  part  of  wool,  w^eighing  4  ounces  or  less  per 
square  yard  and  valued  over  70  cents  per  pound.  Of  these  10,400,808 
square  yards  were  imported  in  1911  over  a  duty  composed  of  55  per 
cent  protective  duty  and  49.04  per  cent  compensatory  duty.  The 
effect  of  the  proviso  on  dress  goods  made  wholly  or  in  part  of  w^ool 
is  to  raise  the  rates.  On  the  small  importation  of  goods  in  1911 
weighing  over  4  ounces  per  square  yard  and  valued  at  40  cents  or 
less  per  pound,  the  protective  duty  was  50  per  cent  and  the  compen- 
satory duty  107.68  per  cent  of  the  value  of  goods  imported. 

It  is  noticeable  in  Table  110  that  the  large  importations  of  dress 
goods  into  the  United  States  are  both  the  finest  and  the  cheapest. 
Medium  grades  are  not  imported  in  large  quantities.  The  largest 
importation  is  of  dress  goods  composed  whollv  or  in  part  of  wool, 
weighing  4  ounces  or  less  per  square  yard  and  Valued  over  70  cents 

§er  pound.  The  next  largest  importation  in  1911  was  of  cotton- warp 
ress  goods  weighing  4  ounces  or  less  per  square  yard,  valued  at  15 
cents  or  less  per  square  yard,  and  valued  at  70  cents  or  less  per  pound. 
Cotton-warp  dress  goods,  weigliing  4  ounces  or  less  per  square  yard, 
valued  over  15  cents  per  square  yard,  and  valued  over  70  cents  per 
pound,  also  show  a  large  importation  in  1911.  The  total  value  of  the 
maports  under  the  dress-goods  paragraphs  is  generally  liigher  than  on 
the  imports  under  any  other  paragrapli  providing  rates  on  manufac- 
tures of  wool. 

Imports  of  dress  goods  for  representative  years. — Table  111  presents 
the  imports  of  dress  goods  of  all  countries  into  the  United  States  for 
certain  representative  years.  Except  the  figures  for  1896,  the 
imports  expressed  in  square  yards  represent  the  dress  goods  weighing 
4  ounces  or  less  per  square  yard,  and  the  imports  expressed  in  pounds 
represent  those  weighmg  more  than  4  ounces  per  square  yard. 


m 


J 


H 


152 


EEPOBT  OF  TAKIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


Table  111. — Imports  of  dress  goods  entered  for  consumption  into  the  United  States. 


Fiscal  year  ending  June  30— 

189tj— Founds » 

190O— Square  yards 

Pounds 

1905— Square  yards 

Pounds 

1910— Square  yards 

Pounds 

1911— Square  yards 

Pounds 


Quantity. 


24,614.717 
15,308,474 

2,980,4(18 
41,906,112 

1.860,711 
35.210.594 

3,227,640 
24,(105,500 

1,971,240 


Value. 


} 


fl9,494,208 
5,895,820 

8,807,452 

9,218,374 

6, 3v}  1,273 


Revenue 

derived. 


Ad  valorem 
rate  of 

duty  (com- 
puted). 


S9. 020,517 
5,848,320 

8,966,386 

9,481,207 

6,498,616 


49.35 
99.19 

101.80 

102.85 

102.11 


1  Under  the  Wilson  bOl. 

Imports  of  dress  gocds,  hy  countries.— The,  imports  of  dress  goods 
from  specified  foreign  countries  into  the  United  States  for  representa- 
tive years  is  given  in  Table  112.  In  tliis  table  the  chief  countries 
of  origin  in  their  order  of  importance  are,  the  United  Kmgdom, 
France,  and  Germany. 

Table  112.— Imports  of  dress  goods,  hy  countries,  entered  for  immediate  consumption  and 

for  warehouse  into  the  United  States. 


1896 


1900 


1905 


Coimtry  of  origin. 


Quantity. 


Value.       Quantity.       Value 


Austria-IIungary . 

Belgium 

France 

Germany 

Italy. 


United  Kingdom . 

Japan 

Other  countries.. 


Pounds. 

33,542 

5.237 
8.087,111 
6,891,692 


11.281,020 

3 

» 58,230 


$28,709 

3.967 

6.290.344 

6,939,936 


7,615,074 

3 

51,892 


Sq.  yds. 
4.536 
117.512 

7.088.726 

4,808.854 

147 

13,321,543 


2,680 


32,915 

2.109,878 

1,201,271 

30 

2,526,171 


920 


Quantity. 


Sq.  yds. 

167,920 

140 

8.524,206 

4,707,901 

119 

31,680.549 

24,375 

5,060 


Value- 


$48,261 

44 

2,080,518 

1,143,028 

53 

5,332,746 

5,931 

1,482 


1910 


1011 


Coi:nt:-\-  <.ri,-r:::in. 


Quantity. 


Austr  ia-Hungary . 

Belgium 

France 

Germany 

Italy 

United  Kingdom. 

Japan 

Otlier  countries... 


Sq.  yds. 

81.714 

$22,703 

19,991 

5,755 

12.968.267 

2.870.374 

9,167.031 

2,187.6S0 

3,836 

1,018 

26,054.902 

4,275,049 

46.585 

10,476 

2,758 

1,085 

Value. 


Quantity.       Value. 


Sq.  vis. 
71,055 
134 

8.906,749 

4,i>91,737 

26 

16,793,766 

47.047 

3,829 


$20,299 

27 

1,943,121 

1,164,122 

12 

3,122,355 

11.323 

1,307 


1  Of  these,  Switzerland  had  53,709  pounds,  valued  at  $48,819. 

Exports  of  dress  goods  from  the  United  States.— The  exports  of  dress 
goods  of  clomestic  manufacture  from  the  United  States  shown  m 
Table  113  are  in  marked  contrast  to  the  imports  shown  m  Table  112. 
They  became  so  small  in  1911  that  they  were  included  by  the  Bureau 
of  Statistics  in  ''All  other  manufactui-es.'' 


tv 


t    I 


KEPORT  OF   TARIFF  BOARD  01^   SCHEDULE   K. 


153 


Table  113.^ — Exports  of  dress  goods  of  dojnestic  manufacture,  hy  countries,  from  the 

United  States. 


Country  of  destination. 


1900 


1905 


Quantity 


Germany 

United  Kingdom . . 

Canada — 

Mexico 

Cuba 

Argentina 

Japan 

Alaska 

Hawaii 

Philippine  Islands. 

Porto  Kico 

Other  countries... 


Yards. 

400 

827 

33,543 

936 


Value. 


$200 

780 

21,078 

657 


2,460  I        1,666 


Quantity. 


Value. 


Yards. 
1,212 
1,400 
4,617 
90 
7,493 
1,000 


3,101 

61,269 

12 


4,081 


$987 

1,075 

3,356 

54 

5,168 

900 


1,906 

45,826 

4 


4,028 


19101 


Quantity.'    Value, 


Yards. 

10,775 

1,648 

16,860 

4,971 

1,078 

1,645 

1,721 

18,242 

66,149 

608 

06,400 

938 


19,826 

1,270 

6,438 

1,975 

761 

2,009 

3,872 

11,543 

100,644 

890 

58,270 

865 


1  Included  in  "All  other  manufactures  of"  after  1^10. 

Production  of  dress  goods  in  the  United  States. — ^The  production  of 
both  woolen  and  worsted  dress  goods  in  the  United  States  for  1899 
and  1909  is  shown  in  Table  114.  This  table  does  not  include  378,000 
square  yards  of  mohair  dress  goods  reported  only  in  1909.  (See 
Table  197.) 

Table  114. — Production  of  dress  goods  in  the  woolen  and  worsted  industries  of  the  United 

States,  1899  and  1909, 


All-wool  dress  goods: 

Wool  dress  goods,  etc.,  opera  and  similar  flannels,  and  other 
similar  all-wool  dress  goods — 

Square  yards 

Value 

Worsted  dress  goods,  cashmeres,  serges,  etc.,  for  women's  wear, 
and  buntings — 

Square  yards 

Value 

Cotton-mixed  dress  goods: 

Sackings,  tricots,  dress  goods  for  women's  wear,  and  opera  and 
similar  flannels— a 

Square  yards 

Value 

Cotton-warp  dress  goods: 

Wool-filling  dress  goods,  and  similar  goods,  and  repellents—' 

Square  yards 

Value 

Worsted-filling  dress  goods,  delaines,  cashmeres,  etc.,  and  other 
stuffs,  for  women's  wear— » 

Square  yards 

Value 

Linings,  Italian  cloths,  and  lastings— ' 

Square  yards 

Value 


1909 


29,099,956 
$16,385,498 


105,801,349 
$54,030,376 


4,246,914 
$1,721,752 


12,268,822 
$2,587,274 


64,468,422 
$14,597,359 

26,514,518 

$8,767,464 


1899 


Percent 

of 
increase, 
1899-1909. 


33,594,212 
$12,976,489 


57,712,086 
$16,316,392 


10,105,548 
$3,341,341 


7,149,016 
$1,735,446 


39,611,517 
$8,466,106 

6,987,330 
$1,953,139 


U3.38 
26.27 


83.33 
231.14 


»57-97 
I4&47 


71.63 
49.08 


62.75 
72.42 

279.47 
348.89 


*  Decrease. 

"  Does  not  include  small  amount  made  in  worsted  mills. 

»  Does  not  include  small  amount  made  in  woolen  mills. 

In  general,  Table  114  shows  that  the  production  of  dress  goods 
made  from  woolen  yarn  dechned  during  the  decade  while  the  pro- 
duction of  those  made  from  worsted  yarn  increased.  AU-wool  dress 
goods,  such  as  opera  and  similar  flannels,  declined  in  quantity  13.38 


SKUIiBBiiliP 


154 


KEPOET  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  BCHEDTJI^  K. 


,i|Mu|| 


ii' 


llfl 

III 


per  cent  but  increased  in  value  26.27  per  cent.  Cotton-mixed  dress 
goods,  such  as  flannels  for  women's  wear,  declined  57.97  per  cent  m 
quantity  and  48.47  per  cent  in  value.  Worsteds,  casiuneres,  serges, 
etc  for  women's  wear,  and  bunting  increased  83.33  per  cent  m  quan- 
tity and  231.14  per  cent  in  value.  Cotton-warp  goods  m  every  case 
increased  in  production.  Those  with  wool  fillmg  mcreased  71.62 
per  cent  in  quantity  and  49.08  per  cent  m  value.  Worsted  filled 
dress  goods,  such  as  delaines  and  cashmeres,  mcreased  62.75  per  cent 
in  quantity  and  72.42  per  cent  in  value.  The  largest  relative  mcrease 
shown  during  the  decade  is  in  linings,  ItaHan  cloths,  and  lasting. 
These  increased  279.47  per  cent  in  quantity  and  348.89  per  cent  m 

value 

Production  of  dress  goods  in  the  United  Kingdom.-— In  1907  the 
United  Kingdom  produced  142,852,000  yards  of  worsted  stuffs,  dress 
goods,  Hnings,  lastings,  etc.,  valued  at  $32,235,696. 

Cmmmrce  of  foreign  countries  in  dress  goods.— T&bie  115  presents 
the  imports  and  exports  of  dress  goods  for  certain  leachng  foreign 
countries  in  1909  and  1910.  No  figures  are  given  here  for  Germany 
because  dress  goods  are  not  reported  separately  m  her  statistics. 

Table  115.— Jmpor/«  and  eiports  of  dress  goods  or  stuffs  for  Uadiny  countries  in  1909 

and  1910. 


1909 

1910 

Country. 

Im  porta. 

Exports. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Quantity.    Value. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Quantity. 

Value, 

Quantity. 

Value. 

United  States. 

United  Kingdom... 
France 

Yards. 

69,' 728,957 
11,224,876 
/3. 361, 538 
\  a  312, 388 

17,019,284 

26,024,232 

1,261,077 

1    977,137 

Yards. 
22,212 
71,859,300 
121,680,036 

$13. 786 
16.014.610 
23,401,699 

Yards. 

,11.016,982 
/5, 795. 194 
\'-'374,241 

10,218,374 

23.310,637 

1,081,186 

|l, 509, 687 

l^cri*. 
40.244 
78. 116. 700 
»28,&43,486 

$27,906 
18,305.2.'>8 

21,776,962 

Cannda 

1 

I  Pounds. 


«  Square  yards. 


In  order  to  show  the  predominance  of  cotton-mixed  dress  goods 
produced  in  the  United  Kingdom,  her  exports  are  presented  sepa- 
rately in  Table  116.  This  table  shows  that  m  1910  she  exported 
59,753,800  yards  of  dress  goods  which  were  m  part  of  cotton  and 
other  similar  materials,  while,  on  the  contrary,  she  exported  only 
9,929,900  yards  of  all-wool  dress  goods. 

Table  116.— Exports  of  dress  goods  from  the  United  Kingdom  for  1910. 


Class, 


Worsted  stuffs,  dress  goods,  Unings,  lastings,  etc..  all  ^'>oV#k';.;h*«;V,;«;;;i«i;* 
Worsted  stuffs,  dress  goods,  linings,  lastings,  etc.,  mixea  witli  other  materials. 


Quantity. 


Yards. 
9.929,900 
69,763,800 


Value, 


$,3,071,131 
13,655,000 


\ 


EEPOBT  OF  TAErFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDUI^  K. 
Paragraph  382.— WEARING  APPAREL  AND  FELTS. 


155 


On  clothing,  ready-made,  and  articles  of  wearing  apparel  of  every  description,  ^ 
including  shawls  whether  knitted  or  woven,  and  knitted  articles  of  every  descnption 
made  up  or  manufactured  wholly  or  in  part,  felts  not  woven,  and  not  Bpeciallv  pro- 
vided for  in  this  section,  composed  wholly  or  in  part  of  wool,  the  duty  per  pound  shall 
be  four  t  mes  the  duty  imposed  by  this  section  on  one  pound  of  unwashed  wool  of  the 
first  class,  and  in  addition  thereto  sixty  per  centum  ad  valorem. 

Paragraph  382  provides  rates  on  (a)  wearing  apparel  of  every 
description  and  (h)  unwoven  felts.  No  basis  whatever  exists  for 
classifying  these  together.  The  compensatory  rate  levied  by  the 
paragraph  is  the  maximum  compensatory  rate  levied  by  paragraph 
378  on  cloths  (44  cents  per  pound),  and  the  ad  valorem  rate  is  5  per 
cent  higher  than  the  maximum  ad  valorem  rate  levied  on  cloths. 

WEARING    APPAREL   OF   WOOL. 

Classification  of  wearing  apparel. — Wearing  apparel  of  wool  duti- 
able under  paragraph  382  is  classified  as  follows:  (a)  Hats  of  wool; 
(6)  hosiery,  underwear,  sweaters,  and  other  knitted  apparel  made 
wholly  or  in  part  of  wool;  (c)  knitted  and  woven  shawls,  and  (d) 
all  other  ready-made  clothing,  cloaks,  and  similar  wearing  apparel. 
Hats  of  all  descriptions  made  wholly  or  in  part  of  wool  are  dutiable 
under  paragraph  382.  In  addition  to  the  ordinary  felt  and  wool 
hats  the  following  have  been  mentioned  in  Treasury  Decisions: 
Alpaca  hats;  Argyle  hats;  miner  hats  of  wool  and  resin,  wool  chief 
value;  felt  and  fez  caps;  hats  of  hair  and  straw;  mortar-board  caps; 

Eith  helmets  covered  with  mohair;  turbans;  hat  bodies  of  wool  or 
air,  etc.  Knitted  piece  goods  are  dutiable  under  paragraph  378, 
but  all  articles  and  parts  of  articles  of  apparel  knitted  on  knitting 
machines  or  otherwise,  or  made  into  garments  from  knitted  piece 
goods  are  dutiable  here.  Knitted  wearing  apparel  includes  under- 
clothing, hosiery,  gloves,  sweaters,  fascinators,  cardigan  jackets, 
hoods,  scarfs,  and  the  like.  Both  knitted  and  woven  shawls  are  duti- 
able here.  "All  other  wearing  apparel''  includes  men's  and  women's 
suits;  cloaks,  ulsters;  skirts;  overcoats;  raincoats  of  cotton,  rubber, 
and  wool  (T.  D.  31350);  raincoats  in  part  of  wool  with  rubber  chief 
value  (T.  D.  31720),  and  all  similar  light  and  heavy  weight  garments 
for  men's,  women's,  and  children's  wear.  Garments  of  wool  and  fur, 
of  which  fur  is  chief  value,  are,  however,  now  dutiable  under  para- 
graph 439  (T.  D.  31811). 

Rates  on  wearing  apparel. — The  rate  of  duty  on  articles  of  wearing 
apparel  of  every  description  made  wholly  or  in  part  of  wool  is  44 
cents  per  pound  and  60  per  cent  ad  valorem.  The  compensatory 
rate  or  44  cents  per  pound  is  the  same  that  is  levied  on  the  best 
cloths  imported  under  paragraph  378.  It  is  said  that  since  it  requires 
4  pounds  of  greasy  wool  of  the  first  class  to  make  1  pound  of  certain 
of  the  best  fabrics,  and  since  these  fabrics  may  be  put  into  garments, 
the  compensatory  rate  must  give,  according  to  the  theory  of  the  law, 
compensation  on  all  equal  to  the  compensation  required  on  the  best 
garments.  No  minimum  duties  are  fixed  to  provide  for  cheaper 
clothing  which  may  contain  cotton,  shoddy,  noils,  wool  waste,  not 
to  mention  trimmings  and  the  hke  on  the  garments.  Garments  very 
frequently  contam  other  materials  than  wool  and  wool  waste.  Felt 
hats  may  contain  shoddy,  hau:,  and  coarse  wool,  and  knitted  articles 


|:| 


11 


156 


BEPORT  OP  TAEIFF  BOAKD  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


as  a  rule  are  made  only  in  part  of  wool  (except  when  made  entirely 
of  cotton,  when  they  are  dutiable  as  cotton  goods).  Ready-made 
clothing  contains  buttons,  linings,  braids,  etc.,  which  are  not  of  wool, 
yet  the  compensatory  duties  are  levied  on  the  entire  weight  of  wear- 
ing apparel,  and  all  the  materials,  whether  wool  or  not,  pay  a  rate  of 
44  cents  a  pound  in  addition  to  the  ad  valorem  rate.  The  compen- 
satory duties  on  clothing  more  than  compensate  the  manufacturer, 
both  because  materials  other  than  wool  are  used  m  their  making  and 
because  wool  generally  shrinks  less  than  75  per  cent  frona  greasy 
wool  to  cloth.  The  ad  valorem  rate  of  60  per  cent  on  ready-made 
clothing  is  higher  than  the  duty  on  cloths  (50  and  55  per  cent  ad 
valorem),  because  the  garment  is  more  advanced  m  the  inanufac- 
turing  process  than  the  finished  cloth  and  therefore  more  labor  and 
capital  involved  in  its  production  must  be  protected. 

Total  imports  of  wearing  apparel— The  total  unports  of  wearing 
apparel,  both  knitted  and  woven,  into  the  Umted  States  for  certain 
representative  years  are  shown  in  Table  117. 

Table  117— Total  imports  of  wearing  apparel  entered  for  consumption  into  the  UniUd 

States. 


Fiscal  yotir  ending  June  30— 


Quantity. 


Value. 


Eevenue 
derived. 


Ad  valorem 
rate  of  duty 
(computed). 


18961. 
1900.. 
1905.. 
1910.. 
1911.- 


Pounds. 


838.798 

853,294 
mo,  413 
926,616 


$4,154,477 
1,513.650 
1,691.751 
1,776,236 
2,257,374 


$1,944,848 
1,277,261 
1,390.494 
1,444,297 
1,762,094 


46.81 
84.38 
82.20 
81.31 
78.06 


"  Under  the  Wilson  bill. 


Imports  of  wearing  aprnrd,  hy  countries. —TliQ  imports  of  wearmg 
apparel  into  the  United  States,  by  countries,  are  shown  m  Table  118. 
Tlie  most  important  countries  of  origin  are  the  Umted  l^mgdom, 
Germany,  France,  and  Switzerland. 

Table  llS.— Imports  of  wearing  apparel  of  wool,  hij  countries    entered  for  immediate 

cmisumption  and  for  warehouse  into  the  I  nitcd  States. 


Country  of  origin. 


Austria-Hungary. 

Belgium 

France 

Germany 

Italy 

Switwrland 

United  Kingdom. 

Canada 

China 

Mexico 

Other  countries.. 


18W 

1900 

19a5 

S41.042 

111.028 

f 10, 131 

»,330 

3,2,=>1 

3,818 

176,601 

221,660 

345.578 

804,834 

456.594 

641.924 

4.024 

1,621 

4.601 

13.845 

23.662 

6,532 

610,641 

336,052 

400.943 

11,009 

5,427 

14,462 

18,780 

5,246 

2,178 

4,716 

981 

406 

5,201 

7,042 

6,755 

1910  J 


$19,787 

3,099 

401,823 

552,834 

20,586 

93,930 

697,958 

11,050 

1,744 

786 

9,945 


1911 


$24,479 

4,712 

358,502 

709,811 

14,508 

122,159 

989,141 

14,174 

3,425 

688 

33,157 


J  After  1906  shawls  are  included  in  "All  other  manufactures.*! 

Exports  of  wearing  apparel,  hij  countnes.— The  exoorts  of  woolen 
weaiTiiff  apparel  of  domestic  manufacture  from  the  United  btates,  by 
countries,  is  shown  in  Table  1 19.  Canada  is  by  far  the  most  impor- 
tant  market  which  the  United  States  has  for  wearmg  apparel.  Mexico 
and  our  colonies  rank  next  m  importance. 


I 


\ 


BEPOBT  OF  TAEIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


157 


Table  119. — Exports  of  woolen  wearing  apparel  of  domestic  vianufacture,  htj  countries, 

from  the  United  States. 


Country  of  destination- 


Germany  

United  Kingdom 

Canada,  Newfoundland,  and  Labrador, 

Panama 

Mexico 

Cuba 

Argentina 

Colombia 

Japan 

British  Australasia 

British  Africa 

Alaska 

Hatvaii 

Philippine  Islands 

Pcrto  K  ico 

Other  countries 


1896 


$18,935 

80,477 

150,088 


21,310 

369 

700 

20,235 

2,218 

2,528 

279 


40,762 


150 
27,260 


1900 


$3,775 

21,719 

342,827 


57,307 
6,073 
6,353 
1,314 
5,123 
2,383 
4,007 


94,420 

1,395 

493 

23,200 


1905 


$18,814 

99,777 

1,072,632 

5,712 

237,605 
11,989 
33,707 
13,933 
17,867 
10,218 
18,501 

504,744 

155,959 
11,637 
65,450 
72,080 


1910 


1911 


$9,739 

19,456 

1,010,463 

44,840 

335,692 

36,722 

27,960 

2,547 

3,965 

2,575 

5,343 

581,867 

97,087 

17,805 

48,021 

38,077 


$2,685 

21,557 

947,260 

9,141 

278,802 

19,565 

66,507 

228 

460 

3,229 

15,465 


44,993 

0) 

40,585 


1  Figures  not  available. 


Imports  of  wool  hats. — The  imports  of  hats  of  wool  into  the  United 
States  for  certain  representative  years  is  presented  in  Table  120. 

Table  120. — Imports  of  hats  of  wool  entered  for  consumption  into  the  United  States. 


Fiscal  year 

ending  June 

30- 

Rate  of  duty. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Revenue 
derived. 

Ad  valo- 
rem rate 
of  duty 
(com- 
puted). 

18961 

45  per  cent  or  50  per  cent 

Pounds. 

232,604 

6,771 

2,406 

19,557 

19,630 

$144,372 

11,575 

4,926 

33,306 

47,145 

$50,452 

9,924 

4,014 

28,589 

36,925 

34  95 

1900 

44  cents  per  pound  and  60  per  cent 

85  74 

1905 

44  cents  per  pound  and  60  per  cent... 

81  50 

1910 

44  cents  per  pound  and  60  per  cent 

85  84 

1911 

44  cents  per  pound  and  60  per  cent 

78  .'12 

1  Under  the  Wilson  bill. 

Production  of  wool-felt  liats. — ^The  industry  producing  wool-felt  hats 
in  the  United  States  consisted  in  1909  of  31  establishments  having  a 
capital  of  $2,475,748.  The  number  of  wage  earners  was  1,986.  The 
materials  used  were  valued  at  $2,472,263  and  the  total  value  of  the 
products  was  $4,382,411.  The  products  of  this  industry  are  pre- 
sented in  detail  for  1899  and  1909  in  Table  121. 

Table  121.— Products  of  wool-felt  hat  industry  in  the  United  States,  1899  and  1909. 


Total  value 

Wool-felt  hats: 

Dozens 

Value *.'..'."...' 

Wool-felt  hat  bodies  and  hats  in  the  rough 

Dozens 

Value ', 

All  other  products 


1909 


$4,382,411 


590,957 

$3,646,787 

53,896 
$309, 492 
$426, 132 


1899 


$3,591,940 


Per  cent  of 
increase, 
1899-1909. 


22.01 


811,425 
$3,161,361 

56,006 
$120,262 
$310,317 


1 27. 17 
15.36 

8.77 

157.35 

37.33 


1  Decrease. 


•it 


I 


*4 


158 


BEPOBT  OF  TASXrV  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


BEPOBT  OF  TAEIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDTILE  K. 


159 


Table  121  shows  that  the  total  value  of  the  products  of  the  wool- 
felt  hat  industry  increased  during  the  decade  22.01  per  cent  m  value. 
The  production  of  wool-felt  hats  declined  dunng  the  decade  27.17 
per  cent  in  quantity,  but  increased  in  value  15.36  per  ceiit.  llie 
production  of  partially  manufactured  hats,  such  as  hat  bodies, 
increased  in  quantity  3.77  per  cent  and  157.35  per  cent  m  value. 

Imporis  of  JcniUed  articles.— Imports  of  knitted  garments  or  parts 
of  garments  into  the  United  States  for  certain  representative  years 
are  shown  m  Table  122.  If  we  subtract  the  protective  ad  valorem 
rate  from  the  computed  ad  valorem  rate  on  kmtted  articles  miported 
into  the  United  States,  we  find  that  the  compensatoiy  rates  are  just 
over  30  per  cent  of  the  value  of  the  articles  imported. 

Table  l22.'-Imports  of  knitted  articles  entered  for  consumption  into  the  United  State9. 


Fiscal  year 

ending 
June  30— 


18961. 
1900.. 
1905.. 
1910. . 
1911.. 


Rate  of  duty. 


45  per  cent  or  50  per  cent 

44  cents  i^er  poxind  and  60  per  cent. 
44  cenbJ  per  pound  and  60  per  cent. 
44  cents  per  pound  and  60  per  cent. 
44  cents  per  pound  and  60  per  cent. 


Quantity. 


Pounds. 


411,633 
413.. 557 
286,333 

272,808 


Value. 


12,458,427 
541,982 
5.38,532 
354,283 

367,708 


Revenue 
derived. 


$1,172,744 

505,084 
338,556 
340,660 


Ad  valorem 
rate  of 

duty  (com- 
puted). 


47.70 
93.43 
93.80 

WO-'  tAf 

92.64 


I  Under  the  Wilson  bill. 


Extent  of  the  Tiosiery  and  Tcnit-qoods  industry.— In  1910  there  were  m 
the  UnitcH  States  1,374  estabhshments  producing  hosiery  and  knit 
goods,  with  a  capitai  of  $163,641,171.  llie  average  number  of  wage 
lamera  employed  was  129,287,  to  whom  were  P"^  ^^5^  ffl°"°^H« 
to  $44,743,822.  The  total  cost  of  materials  used  was  $110,048,b7b, 
and  the  total  value  of  products  was  $200,143,527.1 

Methods  of  making  Icnitted  garments.— Kmtted  garments  are  some- 
times made  by  cutting  up  knitted  piece  goods  accordmg  to  a  pattern 
«id  sewing  them  into^  the  shape  ok  the  garment  designed  Circular 
knitting  now,  however,  is  most  common  There  are  mf^/ tyPf  "^.^t- 
In  general  it  forms  a  knitted  circular  webby  means  of  latched  needles 
which  draw  the  yam  through  loops  made  m  itself  and  is  released  when 
^e  ^nd  loop^is  formed^  ThiV  circular  web  must  be  cut  up  and 
iomed  together  wth  other  parts  in  order  to  complete  the  garment. 
Another  type  of  machine  fasliions  the  article  to  conform  to  the  shape 
of  the  foot,  leg,  or  body.  These  msclunes  are  used  especially  for 
hosiery.  Macfines  are  also  made  which  produce  plait«d  goods  which 
have  both  sides  wool  and  the  inside  cotton  or  any  combination  of 
materiab  that  may  be  dedred.  ^Kb  kmttin^  is  g^^^^ng^^^^^'^^^ 

mZTart  ^f  the^garmmt  is' maX  b/fi^t  Suiting  to  have  such  parts 
ZVcuSs  or  slefves  and  the  tops  of  socks  kmtted  by  the  nb  process. 
The  rib  is  produced  by  reversmg  every  other  or  every  third  stitch 

pJodudL  of  hosi^,. -Kmtted  piece  goods  are  produced  m  the 
U^ted  States  on  flat  looms,  but  it  is  the  cu.^om  to  cut  and  shape  the^e 

into  garments  in  the  mill  where  made..  The  '^^i'^l'^J.fl,^^^ M^^.^ 
produced  by  the  hosiery  and  knit-goods  mdustry  m  the  Umted  States 

■  see  p.  236  for  farther  details  relating  to  Uie  hoeiery  and  knit^goods  industry. 


\ 


\ 


I      I 

ill 


is  produced  on  the  circular-knitting  machine.  The  products  of  this 
industry  are  reported  by  the  United  States  Census  only  in  articles  of 
wearing  apparel.  Cotton  is  used  in  larger  quantities  tlian  any  other 
textile  material.  Cotton  as  well  as  silk  products  are  included  in 
Table  123  along  with  the  woolen  and  worsted  products  for  the  purpose 
of  comparison. 


Table  123. 


-Hose  and  half  hose  produced  by  the  hosiery  industry  in  the  United  States, 

1899  and  1909. 


, 

1909 

1S99 

Per  cent  of 

increase, 

1899-1909. 

Total,  doien 

62,825,069 

«68, 721.825 

29,903,899 
$2*/,  420, 029 

110.09 

Total,  value 

150.63 

Cotton: 

Dozen 

57,305,021 

$55,909,987 

2.227,964 

54,445,227 

2,8.57,670 
$4,766,195 

434,414 
$3,600,416 

26,380,254 

821,182,677 

2,116,662 
$4,006,216 

1,394,411 
$2,044,723 

12,572 
$186,413 

117.23 

Value 

163.94 

Woolen  or  worsted: 

Dozen 

5.26 

Value 

10.96 

Merino  or  mixed: 

Dozen 

104.94 

Value 

133. 10 

Silk: 

Dozen 

3,355.41 
1,831.42 

Value 

Table  123  shows  that  the  increase  in  the  production  of  cotton  and 
cotton-mixed  hosiery  was  much  greater  during  the  decade  than 
that  for  woolen  and  worsted  hosiery.  Cotton  hosiery  increased 
117.23  per  cent  in  quantity  and  163.94  per  cent  in  value.  Cotton- 
mixed  hosiery  increased  104.94  per  cent  in  ouantitv  and  133.10  per 
cent  in  value.  While,  on  the  contrary,  woolen  and  worsted  hosiery 
increased  only  5.26  per  cent  in  quantity  and  10.96  per  cent  in  value. 
By  far  the  largest  relative  increase  during  the  decade  was  in  silk 
hosiery,  which  increased  3,355.41  per  cent  in  quantity  and  1,831.42 
per  cent  in  value,  but  the  quantity  produced  is  small. 

Production  of  knitted  underwear. — The  production  of  knitted  under- 
wear in  the  United  States  for  1899  and  1909  is  shown  in  Table  124, 


IjBO 


BEPORT  OF  TAEIFF  BOAKD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


KEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


161 


m 


}^i 


nil 
■I 


:||' 


i>i 


Table  124  —Knit  underwear  produced  by  the  knit-goods  industry  in  the  United  States, 

1899  and  1909. 


1909 


Total,  dozen 

Total,  value 

Shirts  and  drawers: 

All  cotton— 

Dozen 

Value 

All  wool- 
Dozen 

Value 

Medno  or  mixed- 
Dozen,... 

Value 

Silk  or  silk  mixed— 

•     Dozen 

Value 

Combination  suits: 

All  cotton- 
Dozen 

Value 

All  wool- 
Dozen 

Value 

Merino  or  mixed- 
Dozen 

Value 

Bilk  or  silk  mixed- 
Dozen 

Value 


27,810,922 
$84,446,353 


1899 


16.860.565 
$49,367,441 


22,567,121 
$50,007,598 

178,163 
$1,820,521 

2,536.473 
$17,055,024 

56,062 
$709,074 


2,047.637 
$9,713,597 

50,102 
$683,289 

364.387 
$4,217,432 

10,977 
$239,218 


12,058,431 
$26,882,902 

1,085,046 
$4,980,818 

2,675,416 
$13,293,829 

54.807 
$518,045 

824,632 
$2,240,566 

9.601 
$201,667 

139.994 
$1,133,328 

12.728 
$116,286 


Per  cent  of 
increase, 
1899-1909. 


64.95 
71.06 


87.15 
86.02 

193.58 
163.45 

15.19 

28.30 

2.29 
36.87 


148.31 
333.53 

427.33 
238.82 

160.29 
272.13 

U3.78 
105.72 


» Decrease. 


The  production  of  all-cotton  shirts  and  drawers  during  the  decade 
increased  87.15  per  cent  in  quantity  and  86.02  per  cent  m  value.  The 
production  of  all-wool  shirts  and  drawers,  however,  declined  93.58 
per  cent  in  quantity  and  63.45  per  cent  in  value.  The  production  of 
mixed-cotton  shirts  and  drawers  declined  in  quantity  5.19  per  cent, 
but  increased  28.30  per  cent  in  value.  Table  124  also  shows  that  the 
rate  of  increase  for  combination  suits  was  much  greater  than  for 
sint'le  sliirts  and  drawers,  but  the  quantity  produced  is  comparatively 
small.  All-cotton  combination  suits  increased  during  the  decade 
148.31  per  cent  in  quantity  and  333.53  per  cent  in  value.  The 
all-wool  combination  suits,  although  still  insignificant  in  quantity, 
increased  in  production  at  a  greater  rate  than  the  all-cotton  combi- 
nation suits;  i.  e.,  427.33  per  cent  in  quantity  and  238.82  per  cent  in 

Production  of  Icnitted  fancies.— The  production  statistics  for  fancy 
knitted  articles  reported  by  the  hosiery  and  knit  goods  industry  do  not 
state  of  what  material  the  articles  are  composed.  We  can  only 
assume  that  the  percentage  of  wool  in  these  Articles  is  probably 
greater  than  the  percentage  of  wool  in  the  articles  covered  by  lable 
123  and  Table  124.  The  production  of  knitted  fancy  articles  m  the 
United  States  for  1899  and  1909  is  presented  in  Table  125. 


Table  125. —  Knit  fancies  produced  by  the  Init-goods  industry  in  the   United  States, 

1899  and  1909. 


1909 

1899 

Per  cent  of 
increase, 
1899-1909. 

Total  value. • 

$32,945,689 

$8,745,275 

276.73 

Gloves  and  mittens; 

Dozen 

2,383,889 
$7,296,887 

888,223 
$3,217,985 

2,221.410 
$22,430,817 

1,898.587 
$4,244,046 

343,429 
$1,002,392 

594.090 
$3,498,837 

125.56 

Value 

71.93 

Hoods,  scarfs,  nubias,  etc.: 

Dozen 

158.63 

Value 

221.03 

Cardigan  jackets,  sweaters,  fancy  jackets,  etc.: 

Dozen 

273.92 

Value 

541.00 

The  increase  in  production  during  the  decade  of  gloves  and  mittena 
was  125.56  per  cent  in  quantity  and  71.93  per  cent  in  value.  The 
increase  in  the  production  of  hoods,  scarfs,  nubias,  etc.,  was  158.63 
per  cent  in  quantity  and  221.03  per  cent  in  value.  Cardigan  jackets, 
sweaters,  fancy  jackets,  etc.,  show  the  largest  increase.  They  in- 
creased 273.92  per  cent  in  quantity  and  541.09  per  cent  in  value. 

Knitting  industry  abroad. — Saxony  is  the  chief  State  in  Germany 
in  the  production  of  knitted  goods,  and  Chemnitz  the  chief  city  in 
Saxony.  The  German  statistics  of  1907  do  not  indicate  the  materials 
which  were  used  by  this  industry.  While  we  must  assume  that  cot- 
ton was  the  chief  material  used,  wool  no  doubt  was  used  ta  a  con- 
siderable extent.  In  1907  there  were  103,996  persons  employed  in 
the  knit-goods  industry  in  Germany;  64,716  or  these  were  women. 
Leicester  is  the  great  hosiery  center  in  England.  In  1907  there 
were  18,979  persons  employed  in  the  industry  in  that  city.  The 
total  number  employed  in  the  United  Kingdom  in  the  hosieTy  in- 
dustry was  39,791.  Harwich  is  also  an  important  center  of  pro- 
duction. The  value  of  all  knit  goods  of  whatever  materfal  com- 
posed made  in  the  United  Kingdom  in  1907  was  $41,934,630.  In 
1906  there  were  employed  in  making  knit  goods  composed  of  all 
textile  materials  in  France,  56,700  persons. 

Commerce  in  Tcnitted  goods. — ^The  imports  and  exports  of  knit 
fabrics,  including  hosiery  and  other  knitted  articles,  for  leading 
countries  are  shown  in  Table  126.  This  table  includes  only  knitted 
fabrics  made  wholly  or  in  part  of  wool. 


Table  126. — Imports  and 

exports  of  knit  fabrics,  including  hosiery,  knit  gloves, 
leading  countries  in  1909  and  1910. 

etc.,  for 

1909 

1910 

Country. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Imports. 

Exports. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

United  States 

Pounds. 
326,  .525 

$398,412 
2,256,105 
294,882 
462,355 
356,718 
145,551 
277,044 
1,416,718 

PouTids. 

Pounds. 
320,895 

$391,283 
2,700,304 
311,066 
558,156 
377,874 
176,141 
316,913 
2,052,681 

Pounds. 

United  Kingdom.... 

$6,653,338 

6,724,690 

1,041,298 

338,262 

685,439 

309,610 

88,1.51,475 

Germany 

269,182 
307,762 
448,876 
109,128 
170,636 

7,892,468 
779,767 
371,096 
648, 152 
276,457 

284.834 
383.159 
485,433 
132.276 
200,398 

8.619,545 

2,953,282 

445.578 

682,103 

333,336 

7,552,454 

1,859,169 

494,636 

720.324 
364,502 

France 

Belgium 

Italy 

Austria-Hungary 

Canada 

32080°— II.  Doc.  342,  6^2,  vol  1 11 


162 


RBPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOAItD  ON   SCHEDULE   IL 


Germany  appears  in  this  table  as  the  important  exporting  coimtrv. 
It  must  be  remembered,  however,  that  this  table  does  not  show  the 
total  exports  and  imports  of  knitted  goods  for  the  various  foreign 
countries.  It  only  gives  the  knit  goods  composed  wholly  or  in  part 
of  wool,  and  since  cotton  is  the  predfominant  material  in  this  industry, 
these  figures  would  be  much  larger  if  cotton  knit  goods  were  included. 

Imports  of  shawls. — The  importa  of  shawls,  both  knitted  and  woven, 
into  the  United  States  for  certain  representative  years  are  shown  in 
Table  127: 

Tam-e  127.— Imports  of  MhawU,  knitted  or  woven,  entered  for  consumption  into  the 

United  States. 


'"Fiscal  year 
ending 

Itine3(>— 


^900. 

1910. 
1911- 


Kmtc  of  duty. 


45  per  oeet  or  50  per  oemt 

44  cents  per  pound  find  m  per  aent. 

do --■ 

do 

do 


Quantity. 


PoundM. 

454,979 
70,839 
60,106 
S,974 
2S,il55 


Valua. 


$446,762 
76,573 
65,7C1 
35.036 
48,306 


Revenue 
derived. 


1178,411 
77,113 
65,903 
33,764 
40,800 


Ad  Talorem 

rate  of  duty 

(ootn- 

puted). 


S9.ffi 

100.71 

100.22 

96.40 

84.46 


1  Under  the  Wilson  l>ilL 


Imports  of  other  reuiy-made  clothing. — The  imports  into  the  United 
States  of  ready-made  clothing,  heavy  cloaks,  and  outer  garments, 
and  other  articles  of  wearing  apparel  not  already  enumerated,  are 
presented  in  Table  128. 

-Imports  of  read^-made  clothing,  chdhi,  and  other  outer  garments  eniered 
/or  consumption  into  the   United  States. 


Table  128. 


Wiatai.  year  ending  June  30— 


Ii06> 
1900- 

906.. 
1910. 
1911. . 


Quantity. 


VSi'UHB* 


Fmmia. 
S40a.423 

.349.555 

3""^    one 

S3&M9 
i07,S22 


$740,740 

88:?.  521 

1.082.532 

1,353.622 

1.704.214 


Revenue 
derived. 


$365,653 

(i83.016 

815,493 

1.043.388 

1,343,708 


Ad  valorem 
rate  of  duty 
(computed). 


48.77 
77.41 
7S.33 

74*  ao 


1 1'^nder  the  ^Vilson  bill  • 

1  Does' not  iiielude'  chj-An,  dolmatis,  faetetR,  talmaR.  liBtera.oii  other  outside  ^rraents  tor  ladles' awl 
Children's  apparel  to  the  value  of  $155,175:;  revenue  derived,  $177,688;  ad  valorem  rate  of  duty,  50. 

Production  of  ready-made  clothing  in  the  United  States.— T\iQ  produc- 
tion of  ready-made  clothmg,  both  for  men's  and  women's  wear,  is  very 
large  in  the  United  States.  By  far  the  greater  per  cent  of  woolen 
and  worsted  fabrics  produced  in  this  country  are  made  up  mto  ready- 
made  clothing  before  they  reach  the  ultimate  consumer.  These  gar- 
ments ar«  produced  cluefly  in  the  large  cities,  both  l)y  women  and 
men  working  in  their  homes  on  contract  work  or  by  tiie  large  ready- 
made  clothing  and  cloak  establishments.  The  census  ligur«^  for  wear- 
ing apparel  do  not  designate  whetlier  the  clothiiig  is  made  from  wool, 
cotton,  or  other  textile  fiber.  We  therefore  can  only  enumerate  the 
articles  which  are  produced  and  give  the  total  value  of  their  product. 


REPORT  OF   TARIFF   BOARD   ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


163 


The  total  value  of  men's  clothing  produced  in  the  five  cities  men- 
tioned below  in  1909  was  $485,677,493.  These  products  consisted 
of  men's,  boy's,  and  children's  clothing,  and  such  garments  as  overalls, 
market  frocks,  butcher's  aprons,  uniforms,  bathiiig  suits,  knee  pants, 
gymnasium  and  sporting  clothing,  etc.  The  chief  cities  engaged  in 
the  production  oilmen's  clothing  are  Rochester,  N.  Y.,  New  York 
Oty,  Philadelphia,  Baltimore,  and  Chicago.^  In  these  cities  in  1909 
the  total  value  of  women's  clothing  made  up  was  $384,751,649. 
This  clothing  consisted  of  the  following  articles:  Cloaks,  capes, 
jackets,  wrappers,  slnrt waists,  dresses,  skui;s,  cloak  linings,  imder- 
wear,  mfants*^  clothing,  dress  stays,  quilted  linings,  belts,  dress 
shields,  pleatings,  apions,  sleeves,  petticoats,  kimonas,  dressing  sacks, 
hose  supporteis,  and  night  robes. 

^  Commerce  in  wearing  apparel. — ^The  imports  and  exports  of  woolen 
wearing  apparel,  not  including  knit  goods,  for  leading  foreign  countries 
are  presented  in  Table  129.  It  should  be  noted  before  examining 
this  table  that  the  figures  for  France  and  Belgium  include  wearing 
apparel  made  from  other  textiles  than  wool.  This  inclusion  was 
made  unavoidable  by  the  classification  of  the  statistics  of  those 
countries. 

Table  129. — Imports  and  exports  of  woolen  wearing  apparel  {not  including  knit  goods) 

Jor  leading  countries  in  1909  and  1910. 


Country. 


United  States 

United  Kingdom. 

Germany 

France  1 

Belgium  ^ 

Italy 

A  ustria-Hungary . 
Canada 


1909 


Iir  ports. 


Quantity. 


Pounds 

423, 574 


273, 591 

1,206,324 

3,242,025 

343, 477 

112, 104 


Value. 


$1,082,1% 

4,232,906 

415, 311 

2,048,764 

2,363,374 

565,424 

512.280 

1,523,894 


Exports. 


Quantity. 


Pounds. 


7.418,699 
7,916,992 
5,075,038 
191,139 
1,317,028 


Value. 


$1,420,125 
11,387,766 

9,501,198 
28,076,150 

2,368,474 
317,929 

2,047,168 


1910 


Imports. 


Exports. 


Quantity. 


Pounds. 

574,080 


281,307 

1,431,667 

3,450.046 

408,512 

113, 757 


Value. 


$1,421,953 

4,079,679 

437.206 

2,279,909 

2,684,291 

672.968 

477, 186 

1,677,791 


Quantity, 


Pounds. 


Value. 


8,551.423 

12,066,658 

6,a*i0.389 

143,740 

1,560,416 


$1,555,184 
14,596,673 
11,300,002 
33,625,811 

2,810,108 
239,088 

2,405,051 


»  Woolen  wearing  apparel  not  separated  from  wearing  apparel  of  other  textiles, 

UNWOVEN   FELTS. 

Process  of  felt  malcing. — ^A  felt  is  an  unwoven  fabric  produced  by 
matting  or  felting  together  hair  or  wool.  It  is  a  fiber  fabric  as  dis- 
tinguished from  a  thread  or  woven  fabric.  Felting,  a  property 
peculiar  to  wool  and  to  some  hairs,  causes  the  fiber  to  interlock  and 
unite  in  the  presence  of  moisture  and  heat.  This  property  is  duo  to 
the  curliness  of  the  wool  and  the  serrations  on  each  fiber  which  assist 
in  the  interlocking. 

The  process  of  making  felts  is  the  same  as  the  carded  woolen  pro- 
cess through  the  carding  operation.  If  wool  is  used,  it  is  sorted  and 
scoured  and  then  mixed  and  blended  with  other  materials,  if  desired; 
it  then  is  scribbled  and  worked  on  the  card.  As  it  leaves  the  card  it 
is  distributed  in  gauze-like  films,  say  40  to  80  inches  wide,  one  on  top 

I  For  further  particulars  on  wearing  apparel,  see  p.  241, 


='i;i 


I 


I  ■ 


164 


BEPOBT  OF  TAKIFF  BOAKD  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


of  the  other,  until  the  thickness  of  the  material  reaches,  say,  4  or  5 
inches.  This  somewhat  tender  thickness  of  wool  is  now  passed 
through  an  ironing  process,  consisting  either  of  steam-heated  rollers 
which  have  a  rotary  and  vibrating  motion,  or  a  huge  vibrating  flat- 
iron  under  which  the  cloth  is  automatically  fed.  By  this  process  the 
films  of  wool  are  pressed  together.  Finally,  this  layer  of  wool  is  sub- 
jected to  the  action  of  liquid  soap,  heat,  and  pressure — a  process 
known  as  fulling — and  here  the  actual  felting  takes  place.  The 
action  of  the  heat,  moisture,  and  pressure  causes  the  wool  mass  to 
shrink  and  the  fibers  to  unite  with  each  other  so  that  a  firm  fabric  is 

{)roduced.  Felts,  on  the  one  hand,  are  used  for  cheap  clothing,  end- 
ess  belts,  jackets  for  steam  boilers,  linings,  carpets,  and  upholstery, 
and,  on  the  other  hand,  the  better  grades  are  used  for  billiard  tables, 
piano  covers,  hats,  etc. 

Rate  Off  duty  on  felts. — ^The  rate  of  duty  on  unwoven  felts  is  44  cents 
per  pound  and  60  per  cent  ad  valorem.  There  is  no  reason,  from  the 
point  of  view  of  either  the  industry  or  tariff  classification,  why  felts 
should  be  subjected  to  the  same  rates  as  wearing  apparel.  The  effect 
of  the  rates  is  to  protect  the  domestic  manufacturer  of  felts  with  (1)  a 
compensatory  duty  which  is  adequate  for  the  finest  cloths  and  which 
compensates  the  American  producer  on  the  theory  that  he  does  or 
might  use  4  pounds  of  greasy  wool  of  class  1  in  making  a  pound  of 
felt ;  and  (2)  an  ad  valorem  rate  of  60  per  cent,  which  is  5  per  cent 
higher  than  any  other  ad  valorem  rate  levied  by  Schedule  IT  (except 
the  duty  on  woolen  small  wares  in  paragraph  383,  which  is  also  60 
per  cent). 

Imports  of  felts. — The  imports  of  felts,  not  woven,  into  the  United 
States  for  certam  representative  years  are  given  in  Table  130. 

Table  130. — Imports  oj  felts,  not  woven,  entered  for  consumption  into  the  United  States. 


Fiscal  year 

ending 

June  30— 

Rate  of  duty. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Revenue 
derived. 

Ad  valorem 
rate  of  duty 
(com- 
puted). 

18961 

25  per  cent,  30  per  cent,  3&  per  cent,  45  per 
cent,  or  50  per  cent 

Pounds. 
211,494 
46.429 
77.869 
90.023 
78.249 

1144,792 

64, 19G 

91.410 

107.018 

96,892 

•• 

$62,343 
58.946 
89.108 

10:j,821 
92,665 

43.06 

1900 

1906 

44  cents  per  pound  and  60  per  cent 

do 

91.82 
97.48 

1910 

do 

97.01 

1911 

do 

95.53 

1  Under  the  Wflaon  bill. 


The  important  fact  to  note  in  Table  130  is  the  average  price  of  felts 
imported.  Under  the  lower  rates  of  the  act  of  1894  the  cheaper  felts 
could  be  profitably  imported,  and  the  imports  for  1896  show  the  aver- 
age value  per  pound  of  the  felts  imported  to  have  been  68  cents. 
Under  the  nigh  rates  of  the  acts  of  1897  and  1909  the  average  value 
per  pound  was  over  $1.  In  1900  it  was  $1.38;  in  1905,  $1.17;  in 
1910,  $1.19;  and  in  1911,  $1.23.  These  values  indicate  that  only  the 
best  felts  are  imported  under  the  present  rates,  and  the  cheaper  grades 
are  barred  by  tnem.  The  importation  of  even  the  highest  qualities, 
as  shown  in  Table  130,  is  small,  and  the  computed  ad  valorem  rate 
on  these  is  just  over  95  per  cent  of  their  value. 


BEPOET  OF  TABIFF  BOAED  OK  SCHEDULE  K. 


165 


Productwn  of  felt  goods  in  the  UnUed  StaUs.-A.  good-sized  mdustnr 
«  SSted  by  the  duties  on  felts.  In  1909  there  were  43  estabMi- 
menTs  i^  the%nited  States  engaged  in  producing  ff  g^^d?.;^*^  » 
SaUf  $12,754,833.  The  P^'^^-.^'^Pl^^d^Oe  and  the  v^re  of 
ferZtltS^^^^  the 

United  States  is  presented  m  Table  131. 

Table  131. -Felt  goods  produced  by  the  felt  industry  in  the  UnUed  States,  1899-1909. 


Total  value. 


1909 


111,852,626 


Felt  cloths: 

Square  yards " 

Trimmingsand  lining  felts,  felt  skirts,  etc.: 

Square  yards - 

Value 

Saddle  felts: 

Pounds 

Value 

Endless  belts:  I       3,243,034 


1809 


16,461,691 


Per  cent  of 
increase 
1899-1909. 


3,754,468 
$1,381,854 

5,953,410 
$1,329,686 

1,650,991 
$575,849 


Pounds. 

Value 

Boot  and  shoe  linings: 

Square  yards 

Value 

Hair  felting: 

Square  yards 

Value • 

All  other  felts,  value 

All  other  i)roducts,  value. 


$3,417,822 

1,661,090 
$514,456 

1.159,999 

$331,045 

$3,549,876 

$552,038 


2,056,002 
$548,543 


2,469,830 
$796,718 


1,114,357 
$1,084,835 

1,052,538 
$540,110 

125,000 

$56,950 

$2,261,918 

$1,172,617 


83.43 


82.61 
151.91 


I 


191.02 
215.05 

57.82 
M.75 

828.00 

832.48 

56.94 

152.92 


1  Decrease. 


Table  131  shows  that  the  total  value^of  the  products  of  the  felt- 
goods  hidust^  increased,  from  1899  to  1909,  83  43  Per  cent.     Kelt 
Sloth  produced  increased  82.61  per  cent  m  quantity  and  151.91  per 
cent  in  value.    Trimmings  and  Immg  felts  and  felt  skirts,  etc. ,  and 
saddle  flits  were  aU  included  together  m  1899,  but  saddle  felts  are 
SvS  separaXfrom  the  others  &  1909.    The  endless  belts  nicreased 
Eg  tFie  decaL  in  production  191.02per  cent  m  <jnanUty  anf  215^5 
per  cent  m  value,     feoot  and  shoe  Immgs  or  felt  "^^reased  57  82  pOT 
Ut  in  quantity  but  declined  4.75  per  cent  m  value.  Jhe  production 
of  hair  felting  shows  the  relatively  largest  mcrease.    It  mcreased  828 
per  cent  in  quantity  and  832.48  per  cent  m  value. 
^  WorU  cZrmrceinfelt  jroo^Zs.-The  unports  and  f  JP^^s  "^  f«^ 
goods  for  certain  leadmg  countries  are  showi  in  Table  132     ieltliata 
ire  included  here,  although  under  the  tanflF  classification  they  beione 
with  wearmg  apparel.    The  felts  made  from  haur  are  also  included 
here,  althou|h  excluded  from  Table  229,  where  only  manufactures 
made  wholly  or  in  part  of  wool  are  reported. 


166 


BEPOBT  OF  TAMFW  BOABB  ON   SCHEBULB  K, 


^ 


m 


I 


Tablb  132. — Imports  and  exports  of  felt  and  feli  goods,  for  leading  countries ^  in  1909 

and  2910J 


United  states 

United  Kingdum. 

Germany 


Franeo 

Aiistrj»-Hiingary 
Italy 


1909 


Imports. 


Quantity. 


Value, 


« 83, 890 


199,659 
314,336 


f  1,372,  32<;\.     j3|j     nan 

«87,964'r'       ' 


•678,398;! 
t25«,615l 
•578, 6451 
«  862, 219  f 

s  232,  36a/ 


516,307 
80&,532 
272,803 


ExportJi. 


QuanJlty. 


>6,307,tiOUlS4,tiO» 
"1,154,168 
«2,W1,536 
'  »713,36» 

« 922, 625 

'990,596 
'1.893,310 
»  4,819,418 

« 322, 533 


{' 


1910 


Imporfj. 


Exports. 


Quantity. 


Value. 


« 90, 023 
•625,332 
1,505,410 
« 149,031 
•781,483 
•291,007 
•640,007 
•765,658 

•71,561 
•268,741 


$107,018 
319,062 

d, 845, 928 
608,125 
o3v,  4y6 ' 
320,110 


Quantify. 


406  S5 


•7,785, 
[•1,208,915 
i»  2,853, 634 
•  760, 100 
•947,537 
!•  1,011,491 
i«  2, 136,478 
1*6,862,204 
L   •430,338 


Value. 


1,585,428 
k2,  044, 182 

893,970 

1,700,867 

i4, 121,996 


t  Hot  including  fez  cape. 


•  rounds. 


•Hats. 


Paragraph  383.— WOOL  SMALL  WARES. 


Webbing,  gorings,  suspenders,  braces,  bandings,  beltings,  bindings,  braids,  gal- 
loons, edgings,  inseriings,  flouncings,  fringes,  gimps,  cords,  cords  and  tassels,  ribbons, 
ornaments,  fiicee,  trimmings,  and  articles  made  wnoUy  or  in  part  of  lace,  embroideries 
and  all  articles  embroidered  by  hand  or  machinery,  head  nets,  nettings,  but- 
tons or  barrel  buttons  or  buttons  of  other  forms  for  tassels  or  ornaments,  and  manu- 
factures of  wool  ornamented  with  beads  or  spangles  of  whatever  material  composed, 
any  of  the  foregoing  made  of  wool  or  of  which  wool  is  a  component  material,  whether 
containing  india  rubber  or  not,  fifty  cento  per  pound  and  sixty  per  centum  ad  valorem. 

aamificaiion  under  ^^5.— Paragraph  383  provides  rates  (1)  on 
small  wares,  sometimes  spoken  of  as  passementeries,  made  wholly  or 
in  part  of  wool,  and  (2)  on  ''manufactures  of  wool  ornamented  with 
beads  or  spangles  of  whatever  material  composed."  The  only  appar- 
ent reason  for  the  exhaustive  enumeration  of  smaU  wares  here  would 
seem  to  be  to  prevent  the  enumerated  articles  from  coming  in  under 
the  lower  duties  of  the ''blanket*'  provision  of  paragraph  378,  which 
provides  for  unspecified  manufactures  of  wool. 

Artides  defined, — Below  are  defined  the  various  articles  and 
materials  mentioned  in  paragraph  383.  Webbing  is  a  stout,  close- 
woven  tape,  intended  to  be  used  where  heavy  strains  are  carried. 
Banding  and  binding  are  narrow  strips  of  cloth  used  to  strengthen 
or  ornament  garments.  Galloon  is  also  a  narrow  tape-like  binding 
or  trimming  used  to  edgje  and  border  cloth,  especially  a  bordering 
or  binding  of  rich  material,  such  as  gold  or  silver,  as  well  as  wool. 
Edging  is  lace  or  embroideiy  used  for  trimming  the  edges  of  gar- 
ments. Belting  is  material  used  for  making  belts.  Goring  is  mate- 
rial used  for  making  gores;  i.  e.,  tapering  or  triangular  pieces  of  cloth 
used  to  insert  in  a  garment  to  give  it  a  tapering  effect  or  a  varying 
width.  Gimp  is  a  flat  trimming,  often  stiffened  with  wire,  used  for 
borders  of  curtains,  furniture,  etc.  Cord  is  a  general  name  for  strands 
of  textile  material  twisted  into  a  small  rope.  Inserting  is  lace, 
embroidery,  or  needlework  made  to  be  inserted  in  plain  material  to 
omanaent  it.  Flouncing  is  used  to  make  flounces;  i.  e,,  strips  of 
material  which  are  sewed  on  by  their  edge  and  left  hanging  with  a 
full  effect,  as  on  the  bottom  of  a  skirt.  Ornaments  and  trmimings 
are  general  terms  used  to  cover  anything  that  might  have  escaped 
enumeration.    Astrakhan  trimmings  and  epaulots  have  been  made 


BEPOBT  OF  TARLFP  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


167 


dutiable  under  this  designation.  Tassels  are  pendent  ornaments 
consisting  generally  of  a  roundish  mold  covered  with  twisted  thread. 
Fringe  is  an  ornamental  border  consisting  of  loose  threads  or  strips 
attached  to  a  band  of  the  same  material  as  the  fringe. 

Paragraph  383  includes  also  netting,  braids,  ribbons,  buttons,  and 
embroideries.  These  articles  are  now  made  both  by  hand  and  by 
machinery.  The  term  netting  covers  numerous  open-meshed  fabrics 
such  as  veils  and  is  a  general  term  which  includes  all  forms  of  net-like 
materials.  The  making  of  braids  is  an  extensive  industry.  They 
are  produced  on  power  machines  which  are  adapted  to  making  flat, 
tubular,  stripe,  or  lace  braids.     The  buttons  mentioned  in  this  para- 

frapli  are  those  covered  with  cloth  made  m  whole  or  in  part  of  wool, 
he  covering  of  the  buttons  is  cut  with  a  die  and  mallet  and  then 
fastened  to  the  metal  or  material  which  forms  the  foundation  of  the 
button.  Embroidery  is  a  series  of  ornamental  designs  made  by 
needlework.  They  are  made  both  by  hand  and  by  machinery. 
Elastic  materials,  including  both  india  rubber  and  wool,  are  classified 
under  paragraph  383. 

Many  of  the  articles  mentioned  in  tliis  paragraph,  such  as  ribbons, 
braids,  laces,  etc.,  represent  important  branches  of  the  textile  indus- 
try. As  a  rule,  however,  cotton,  silk,  and  other  textile  materials  are 
used  in  making  small  wares  or  passementeries  more  extensively  than 
wool,  and  unless  wool  is  chief  value  in  small  wares  imported  they  are 
not  dutiable  under  this  section. 

Duties  on  small  wares. — The  rate  of  duty  on  small  wares  made 
wholly  or  in  part  of  wool  and  on  manufactures  of  wool  ornamented 
with  small  wares  is  50  cents  per  pound  and  60  per  cent.  The  com- 
pensatory duty  of  "50  centsper  pound"  is  a  survival  of  the  plirase- 
ology  of  the  act  of  1867.  Wlien  that  act  was  framed  it  was  stated 
that  53.35  cents  was  necessary  to  compensate  the  manufacturer  for 
the  increased  price  of  his  materials  due  to  the  tariff.  (See  p.  102.) 
In  the  act  of  1867  the  compensatory  duty  on  small  wares  was  "50 
cents  per  pound." '  In  later  acts  the  compensatory  duty  on  cloths 
was  fixed  at  44  cents  per  pound,  but  the  compensatory  duty  on  small 
wares  was  raised  to  60  cents  per  pound  in  1890  and.  reduced  to  50 
cents  per  pound  in  1897  and  1909.  The  probable  purpose  in  fixing 
this  duty  liigher  on  small  wares  than  on  cloths  was  the  possibility  that 
in  making  the  former  there  might  be  more  waste  than  in  making  the 
latter.  If  the  theory  of  fixing  the  compensatorv  duties  on  the  basis 
of  the  maximum  amount  of  material  that  might  be  used  in  any  article 
within  a  given  classification  be  once  admitted,  50  cents  per  pound  is 
not  too  high  on  small  wares.  In  making  a  pound  of  fine  all-wool 
ribbons,  laces,  or  nettings  4y«j-  pounds  of  high-shrinking  wools  of  class 
1  midit  be  used.  It  is  needless  to  say  that  these  cases  are  excep- 
tional. As  a  general  rule  the  compensatory  rate  in  paragraph  383  is 
much  more  than  is  necessary  for  compensation.  In  the  first  place 
small  wares  are  frequently  made  in  part  of  other  materials  than  wool. 
1  hey  contain  cotton,  india  rubber,  metal,  and  other  like  materials 
winch  require  no  compensation  whatever.  The  wool  used,  in  the 
second  place,  in  braids,  webbings,  covers  for  buttons  and  the  Hke, 
never  shrinks  from  greasy  wool  to  finished  product  as  much  as  the 
compensatory  duty  of  paragraph  383  assumes.  The  best  braid  wools 
are  the  long  English  wools  and  also  mohair.     These  not  only  slirink 


W' 


M 


168 


BEPOET  OF  TABIFF  BOAED  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


lightly,  but  when  washed  the  duty  on  them  is  not  doubled  as  in  the 
case  of  class  1  wools.     (See  p.  47.) 

Imports  ofsmaU  wares. — ^The  imports  of  small  wares  of  wool  and 
manufactures  of  wool  trimmed  with  small  wares  into  the  United 
States  for  certain  representative  years  is  given  in  Table  133. 


Table  133. 


-Imports  of  small  wares  of  wool  and  manufactures  of  wool  trimmed  vrUh 
small  wareSj  entered  for  consumption  into  the  United  States. 


Fiscal    rear 
ending 
June  30— 

Rate  of  duty. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Revenue 
.  derived. 

Advalorem 
rate  of  duty 
(computed.) 

18961 

50  Der  cent 

$114,104 

113,542 

25,318 

77,162 

74,718 

$57,052 
88,069 
18,564 
67,175 
63,331 

50.00 

190O 

50  cents  per  pound  and  60  per  cent 

50  cents  per  pound  and  60  per  cent 

50  cents  per  pound  and  60  per  cent 

50  cents  per  pound  and  60  per  cent 

39,927 

6,761 
41,756 
36,999 

77.68 

1905 

73.32 

1910 

1911 

87.06 
84.79 

1  Under  the  Wilson  bill. 


The  average  value  per  pound  of  the  manufactures  dutiable  under 
paragraph  383  in  1910  was  $1.99;  in  1911,  $2.02.  Subtracting  the 
nominal  protective  duty  of  60  per  cent  from  the  computed  ad  valorem 
duty,  we  find  that  the  compensatory  duty  in  1910  on  these  goods 
amounted  to  27.06  per  cent  of  their  value,  and  in  1909  to  24.76  per 
cent  of  their  value.  The  imports  of  these  materials  are  very  small; 
the  average  value  comparatively  hidi. 

Production  of  small  wares  in  the  united  States. — The  production  of 
small  wares  of  wool  in  the  United  States  is  not  large  enough  to  justify 
the  census  in  making  it  a  separate  branch  of  the  wool  manufactures. 
Cotton  small  wares,  however,  are  classified  separately.  In  1904  this 
industry  used  only  8,000  pounds  of  woolen  yarn  and  21,173  pounds 
of  worsted  yarn.  "  The  cloth  buttons  produced  in  the  United  States 
in  1904  amounted  to  2,990,750  gross,  valued  at  $766,091,  but  the 
material  from  which  they  were  made  is  not  specified. 

Production  of  small  wares  in  the  United  Kingdom. — In  1907  the 
United  Kingdom  produced  $520,716  worth  of  wool  and  mohair  braid, 
laces,  and  small  wares. 

Production  of  small  wares  in  France. — France  is  a  very  important 
country  in  the  production  of  small  wares,  but  her  statistics  mclude 
the  small  wares  of  all  textile  materials  together.  The  number  of 
pereons  employed  in  making  small  wares,  including  ribbons,  etc.,  of 
silk,  wool,  cotton,  and  other  materials  in  1906  was  48,350. 

Commerce  of  leading  countries  in  small  wares. — The  imports  and 
exports  of  certain  leadmg  countries  in  small  wares  of  wool  is  presented 
in  Table  134. 


I 


1 


BEFORT  OF   TABIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


169 


Table  134. — Imports  and  exports  of  woolen  small  wares  for  leading  countries  in  1909  and 

1910. 


Country. 


United  States 

United  Kingdom.... 

Germany 

France 

Belgium 

Italy 

Austria-Hungary. . . . 


1909 


Imiwrts. 


Quantity 


Pounds. 
18,409 


13,669 
115,217 
28,307 
38, 797 
60,847 


Value. 


$36,664 
209,332 
16,660 
70,256 
16,568 
56,141 
68,639 


Exports. 


Quantity. 


Pounds. 


57,540 

1,395,565 

514 

257,535 

225,310 


Value. 


$1,929,042 

56,882 

1,726,559 

470 

338,777 

177,203 


1910 


Imports. 


Quantity 


Pounds. 
41,756 


11,243 
109,128 
31,513 
44,985 
61,971 


Value. 


$77,162 
69,810 
11,662 
64,462 
18,947 
66,219 
82,156 


Exports. 


Quantity. 


Pounds. 


61,588 

1,646,616 

481 

297,802 

267,418 


Value. 


$2,392,566 

52,838 

1,424,340 

477 

390,409 

aB8,3oa 


CARPETS  DUTIABLE  UNDER  SCHEDULE  K. 

Paragraphs  384  to  393,  inclusive,  of  the  act  of  August  5,  1909, 
fix  the  duties  on  the  various  grades  of  carpets  and  rugs.  Before 
considering  each  paragraph  in  detail,  certain  facts  and  figures  relating 
to  carpets  m  general  must  be  set  down. 

Compensatory  duties  on  carpets  in  1867. — Compensatory  duties 
appear  on  carpets  and  carpetmgs  for  the  first  time  in  the  act  of 
March  2,  1867.  With  carpets  a  new  principle  for  fixing  these  duties 
is  introduced  into  Schedule  K.  Since  carpets  are  made  from  the 
coarse  class  3  wools,  the  compensatory  duties  could  no  longer  be 
based  on  the  amount  of  class  1  wool  used  in  a  given  unit  of  carpet. 
In  1867  a  substantial  duty  was  levied  on  carpet  wools,  not  to  pro- 
tect their  production  in  the  United  States,  for  this  was  small,  but 
both  for  revenue  purposes  and  because  the  woolgrowers  feared  that 
they  would  be  used  in  clothing  and  thereby  supplant  domestic  wool. 
The  duty  fixed  in  1867  on  third-<;lass  wool  valued  at  12  cents  and 
less  was  3  cents  per  pound  and  valued  over  12  cents  per  pound,  6 
cents  (present  law  is  4  and  7  cents).  In  addition  to  this,  the  manu- 
facturers desired  compensation  on  linen  and  tow  yams  and  on 
chemicals  used.  Representatives  of  five  large  carpet  establish- 
ments therefore  made  a  report  to  the  United  States  revenue  com- 
mission in  1866  in  which  they  stated  the  compensatory  rates  that 
they  thought  were  then  necessary  on  the  chief  grades  of  carpets 
which  they  then  produced.  The  results  of  their  report  are  summed 
up  in  Table  135. 


170 


1 
i 


lEPOKT  OP  TABIFF  BOAED  ON  SCHEBULE  K. 
Tabui  1Z5.~ Compensatory  dut'm  on  carpets. 


{Table  showing  the  araoont  of  duties  and  chanres  on  me  materialfl  n«.ri  in  f  t,-  «,„«.,#    *         • 
and  a  square  yard  of  the  leading  varieties  ofSrneS  thn  f«5.^j«n!  «?SaV*  *    .  "manufacture  of  a  runnin, 
by  decimals.]  *^  vanouea  oi  ourpets,  tue  fracliona  of  cents  and  of  ounces  being  expresse 


Itema. 

Ingrain  carpets. 

Tapestr  r  carpets 

printed  on  the 

warp. 

Carpets  wrought 
by  the  Jacquard 
machine. 

Two-ply. 

Three- 
ply. 

Brussels. 

Velvet. 

Brussels. 

Wilton. 

Neutralizing  duties  and  charg«s: 
Dut  iea  on  the  wools  used 

€mt9, 

11.70 

Cents.        Ctnts. 

Cents. 
17.71 
8 

4.50 

Cents. 
24.92 
0 

3 

Cents. 

Duties  on  the  linen  or  tow  yarn 

19.  ifia 

ii.au 
6 

3 

39.36 

Duties  on  drugs  and  other  imported 
matetiils. 

2 

2.50 

8 



4 

1  otai  of  neutralizing  duties 

Ciiargea  on  account  of  duties,  id  per 

13.70 
1.37 

17.73 
1.77 

20.80 
2.08 

30.21 
3.02 

33.92 
3.30 

51.36 

Total  of  neutraliting  duties  and 
charges,  per  running  yard . 

5.13 

15.07 
15.07 

19.50 
19.50 

22.88 

30.50 

33.23 
44.31 

37.31 
49.75 

Total  of  neutralizing  duties  and 
charges,  per  square  yard 

54.49 

75.32 

^tlt  neutral^ing  duties  per  square  yard  of  each  of  the  specified  kinds 
of  carpets  m  Table  135  were  used  as  the  basis  for  the  Jompem^Jv 
duties  in  the  act  of  1867.     In  tlieory  they  put  the  manufStr  S 

^Ai^f^r^  III  ^  ""^^^^"^  *of  t^e  compensation  for  wool.Unen 
and  tow  yam,  and  chemicals,  a  charge  of  10  ner  cent  is  hA.La  t^ 

£  ridTc^tL^'he  "sjTare-ya'&b^^^^^^ 

three-fourths  of  a  ya^  S  '  ^  ''''^^  ^^'^  *^^  "^"""^  ^^"^ 

It  was  stated  by  the  committee  that  in  the  making  of  ingrain  car- 
pets the  combed  or  worsted  yam  forms  the  warp  and\3eTvam 
made  from  the  nods  the  fillmg  of  the  carpet,  i^r  this  reW^?h^ 
f^n^t^  R*  ^  f '**  Y'^^^g  i'^^i"^  "«  P"e  carpets     In^akW 

are  waste,  and  tlierefore  more  wool  is  needed.    Tow  and  Unen  varn 
are  also  used  for  making  the  foundation  of  these  camets  ^ 

Manujacturer  8  statement  oflmo  duties  were  Jlxed.—The  followinff  m 
a  detailed  statement  by  the  committee  of  1866  of  how  the  a)m3«i^ 
toiy  duties  on  carpets  in  Table  135  were  fix^  compensa- 

the  duty^n  the  wool  in  th^  finThed  ^^^sT9%T^nU  ^^^^ZT'JlT^  *M 
to  0.585  cent  per  ounce.  Three  dollarsfthe  duty  o„Tw  MunWurw^Ln  ^''"f 
divided  by  32  pounds  of  carpets,  givej  the  S  LSt     We  n^L^^.f^l'':"?.'' 

triiich  multi^^bvO^djn.^.h!  Y  7*'^'''  °"  *"  ^'"''^'''  20  ounces  per  yard, 

of  A  on"'ri.tl'^uSor'a%'7tCpTc%^^^^^  ''''  ^^^'^  ^  »'"'  ^"^^ 
A  Ko-T'V^.^^^f^  ^®^^^'  ^^  ^  average,  26  ounces  pcr'yard   which   multinliprl  h.r 

^^^ed  L^y^d^Jf  ?hre:!pT;'4e1.^^-^^  '=«"*^  ^  ^«  ^o^t  Sft ty-on  gfw^^ 


KEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


Tavestrv  carpets  and  carpds  wrought  by  the  Jacquard  machine.— The  wools  of  which 
these  carpeta  are  made  consist,  on  an  average,  of  1  part  of  Canada  combing  wool  to 
4  parts  of  Cordova  or  other  similar  wool  paying  a  like  duty,  the  Canada  wool  being 
required  for  certain  colore.  ,       ,  ,«  x    j      i  v.-  t. 

The  duty  on  Canada  wool  is  12  cents  per  pound  and  10  per  cent  ad  valorem,  which 
13  equal  to  16.50  cents  per  pound,  and,  as  2  pounds  of  wool  are  required  for  1  pound 
of  worsted,  it  follows  that  the  duty  on  the  wool  in  the  worsted  amounts  to  33  cents 

per  pound.  ,    .  i        i       «  j 

The  duty  on  Cordova  and  other  suitable  wools  is  6  cents  per  pound,  and,  as  3  pounds 
of  such  wools  are  required  to  make  1  pound  of  worsted,  it  follows  that  the  duty  on 
the  wool  in  the  worsted  amounts  to  18  cents  per  pound.  Now,  as  4  pounds  of  this 
worsted  are  used  to  1  pound  of  the  Canada,  the  average  amount  of  duty  paid  on  the 
wool  in  the  worsted  used  is  as  follows:  Four  pounds  of  Cordova,  etc.,  worsted,  at  18 
cents  per  pound,  72  cents;  1  pound  of  Canada  worsted,  at  33  cents  per  pound,  33 
cents;  5  pounds  divided  into  105  cents  gives  21  cents  per  pound. 

Average  duty  on  the  wool  for  1  pound  of  worsted,  21  cents  per  pound,  is  equal  to 
1.312  cents  per  ounce. 

Tapestry  Brussels  carpeta  of  standard  quality  require  9  ounces  of  worsted  per  run- 
ning yard,  which,  multiplied  by  1.312  cent^,  the  duty  per  ounce,  gives  11.80  cents 
as  the  amount  of  duty  on  the  wool  used  for  a  yard  of  tapestry  Brussels  carpet. 

Tapestry  velvet  carpets  of  standard  quality  require  13.50  ounces  of  worsted  per 
runnmg  yard,  which,  multiplied  by  1.312  cents,  the  duty  per  ounce,  gives  17.71 
cents  as  the  anount  of  duty  on  the  wool  used  for  a  yard  of  tapestry  velvet  carpet. 

Brussels  carpets,  five-frame,  of  standard  quality,  wrought  by  the  Jacquard  machine, 
require  19  ounces  of  worsted  per  running  yard,  which,  multiplied  by  1.312  cents,  the 
duty  per  ounce,  gives  24.92  cents  as  the  amount  of  duty  on  the  wool  used  for  a  yai'd 
of  this  kind  of  carpeting. 

Wilton  carpets,  five-frame,  of  standard  quality,  wrought  by  the  Jacquard  machine, 
require  30  ounces  of  worsted  per  running  yard,  which,  multiplied  by  1.312  cents,  the 
duty  per  ounce,  gives  39.36  cents  as  the  amount  of  duty  on  the  wool  used  for  a  yard 
of  tnis  kind  of  carpeting. 

Duties  on  the  linen  yam. — Linen  yam,  of  the  quality  used  in  the  manufacture  of 
the  carpets  above  designated,  costs  abroad,  on  an  average,  23  cents  j^er  pound,  on 
which  the  30  per  cent  duty  amounts  to  6.90  cents  per  pound;  and  if,  in  addition  to 
this,  wo  mako  the  usual  allowance  for  the  waste  of  the  yam  in  working  it,  the  amount 
of  the  duty  on  a  pound  of  linen  yam  in  the  carpet  will  be  at  least  8  cents  per  pound. 
Now,  as  tai>estry  velvets  and  Wilton  carpets  each  require  1  pound  of  linen  yam  per 
running  yard,  the  duty  on  the  linen  yarn  for  these  carpets  will  be  8  cents  per  yard; 
and,  as  tapestry  Brussels  carpets  and  Brussels  carpets  wrought  by  the  Jacquard 
machine  each  require  only  three-fourths  of  a  pound  of  linen  -yam  per  mnning  yard, 
the  duty  on  the  linen  yam  for  these  carpets  will  be  6  cents  per  yard. 

Changes  in  carpet  compensatory  duties  since  1867. — The  duty  on 
class  2  wools  valued  over  32  cents  per  pound  in  1867  was  12  cents  per 
pound  and  10  per  cent  ad  valorem;  under  the  present  law  it  is  12 
cents  per  pound  on  all  class  2  wools.  In  1867  the  duty  on  class  3 
wools  valued  at  12  cents  or  less  was  3  cents  per  pound  and  valued 
over  12  cents  per  pound  6  cents  per  pound.  These  duties  are  now 
4  and  7  cents,  respectively.  Three  of  the  compensatory  rates — those 
on  Brussels,  velvet,  and  tapestry  Brussels  carpets — are  the  same  in 
the  present  law  as  they  were  in  the  law  of  1867.  Two  others — those 
on  Aubusson,  etc.,  carpets  and  on  rugs — have  been  introduced  since 
1867,  and  the  remaining  compensatory  duties  on  carpets  have  under- 
gone slight  changes.  Aubusson,  Axminster,  moquette,  chenille,  and 
Wilton  carpets  were  given  their  present  rate  of  60  cents  per  square 
yard  in  1890.  At  this  time  druggets  were  also  given  their  present 
rate.  In  1897  the  compensatory  rate  on  rugs  was  fixed  at  90  cents 
per  square  yard  and  the  rates  on  ingrain  carpets  were  also  given  their 
present  form.  For  the  purpose  of  comparison,  the  changes  in  the 
carpet  compensatory  duties  since  1867  are  presented  in  Table  136. 


i 


H 


172 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON   SCHEDtJLB  K. 


Tabib  l^.—Compmmtory  duties  on  carpets  and  carpetings  in  the  iarif  acts  from  1867  to 

1909. 


Kind  of  carpet 


Compensatory  duties,  in  cents  per  square 
yard,  imdcr  the  act  of— 


Aubusson,  Axminstcr,  moquette,  and  chenille  carpets.. 

W  il ton  carpets 

Brussels  carpets 

Velvet  and  tapestry  velvet  carpets 

Tapestry  Brussels  carpets 

Treble  ingrain  carpets. 

2-pIy  ingrain  carpets 

Hugs  of  every  description 

Druggets  and  bockings 


1867 


1883 


70 

10 

28 
17 
12 


25 


45 
45 
30 
25 
20 
12 
8 
45 
15 


1880 


60 
60 
44 
40 
28 
19 
14 
60 
22 


1897 


60 
60 
44 
40 

28 
22 
18 
90 
22 


1900 


«0 
60 
44 
40 

28 
22 
18 
90 
22 


Total  imports  of  carpets  and  rugs. — The  total  imports  of  carpets  and 
rugs  into  tne  United  States  for  certain  representative  years  are  pre- 
sented in  Table  137. 

Table  1^7.— Imports  of  carpets  and  rugs  of  all  kinds  entered  for  consumption  into  thi 

United  States. 


Fiscal  year  ending  June  30— 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Revenue 
derived. 

Ad  valo- 
rem rate  of 
duty  (com- 
puted). 

1896 1 

Sq.  ifards. 

$2,025,317 
2.552,620 
2,909,092 
4,619,170 
3,887,734 

$805,580 
1,675,696 
1,831,572 
2,802,212 
2,399,369 

89.79 

65.65 
62.96 
60.66 

61.72 

1900. . : 

820, 731 

814,389 

1.143,163 

1,011,525 

1906 

1910 

1911 

*  Under  the  Wilson  bill. 


The  average  value  of  carpets  imported  in  1910  was  $4.04  per  square 
yard,  and  in  1911  $3.84  per  square  yard.  The  imports  are  composed 
chiefly  of  oriental  and  other  high-class  rugs,  as  the  average  values 
above  shown  would  indicate.  Carpets  such  as  compete  directly  with 
those  produced  in  the  United  States  are  imported  only  in  negligible 
quantities.  If  we  take  the  nominal  protective  rate  of  40  per  cent 
from  the  computed  ad  valorem  rate  we  find  that  the  compensatory 
duty  in  1910  on  all  carpets  amounted  to  20.66  per  cent  of  the  value 
of  those  imported,  and  in  1911  to  21.72  per  cent  of  the  value  of  those 
imported. 

Imports  of  carpets  and  carpetings  hy  countries. — Imports  of  carpets 
and  carpetings  into  the  United  States,  by  countries,  for  certain  repre- 
sentative years  are  presented  in  Table  138. 


« 


BEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE   K. 


173 


Table  IZS.—Imports  of  carpets  and  carpetings,  hy  countries,  entered  for  immediMe  con- 
sumption and  for  warehouse  into  the  United  States. 


Country  of  origin. 


1896 


1900 


AustrlarHungary.. 

France 

Germany 

Ottoman  Empire, 
including  Egypt 
and  Bulgaria — 

United  Kingdom., 

British  East  In- 
dies  

Persia 

Russian  Empire... 

Other  countries... 


Quan- 
tity. 


Sq.yds. 

509 

12,193 

34,170 


42,286 
521,337 

4,688 

<'} 
(') 
11,414 


Value. 


$1,392 
30,421 
51,700 


115,651 
675,148 

12,640 


6,992 


Quan- 
tity. 


Sq.yds 
2,077 
10,057 
4,186 


521,941 
279,428 

45,491 

23,350 
17,766 


Value. 


$11,512 
30,074 
18,288 


1,784,816 
643,284 

166,181 


51,992 
42,646 


1905 


Quan- 
tity. 


Sq.  yds. 

9,912 

14,967 

13,106 


609,860 
178,102 

40,658 

0) 
10,450 

41,795 


Value. 


$44,049 
52,828 
44,148 


2,047,099 
405,846 

126,762 


25,326 
131,935 


1910 


Quan- 
tity. 


Sq.  yds 
25,215 
18,264 
27,776 

753,337 
150,308 

33,559 

156,426 

31,322 

9,775 


Value. 


$111,859 
72, 185 
76,704 


3,287,340 
371,696 

99,247 

437,673 

93,718 

41,299 


1911 


Quan- 
tity. 


Sq.  yds 
28,953 
28,621 
19,836 

407,408 
138,766 

37,600 

281,601 

62,381 

8,576 


Value. 


$135,797 
95,127 
65,558 


1,900,870 
393,131 

101,451 

944,561 

140,586 

30,724 


1  Not  given  separately. 


In  this  table  it  should  be  noted  in  particular  that  by  far  the  largest 
imports  are  from  the  Ottoman  Empire  and  Persia,  wliich  shows  con- 
clusively that  oriental  rugs  make  up  the  majority  of  the  imports  of 

carpetings  into  this  country.  r„  , ,    .  „^  ^    xt. 

Exports  of  carpets  from  the  United  States.— T&hle  139  presents  the 
exports  of  carpets  of  domestic  manufacture,  by  countries,  from  the 
United  States.  As  compared  with  the  size  of  the  industry  m  this 
country  and  the  possibility  of  foreign  markets,  the  exports  are  exceed- 
ingly small.  They  became  so  small  in  1911  that  they  were  mcluded 
in  **A11  other  manufactures"  of  wool. 


Table  139.- 


-Exports  of  carpets  of  domestic  manufacture,  hy  countries,  from  tJie  United 

States. 


Country  of  destina- 
tion. 


United  Kingdom... 

Bermuda 

Canada 

Mexico 

British  Australasia. . . 

Alaska 

Hawaii 

Porto  Rico 

Other  countries .... 


1896 


1900 


Quantity. 


Yards. 

248,067 

210 

39,074 

2,114 

3,952 


Value.    Quantity. 


$161,796 

75 

18,957 

1,598 

2,088 


49,051 


40,693 


Yards. 

94,432 

168 

8,242 

3,716 

26,830 


Value. 


$76,475 

143 

6,331 

2,954 

15,842 


275 
12,450 


159 
13,148 


1905 


19101 


Quantity. 


Yards. 

9,904 

1,047 

1,725 

19,321 

21,613 

18,173 

2,499 

4,948 

23,262 


Value. 


$10,321 

1,025 

1,260 

14,973 

16,261 

13,864 

2,665 

4.607 

20,801 


Quantity. 


Yards. 

6,664 

5,947 

9,184 

11,786 

10,683 

26,336 

14,407 

11,841 

11,232 


Value. 


$8,559 
6,277 
10,527 
10,943 
9,664 
25,009 
15,350 
11,094 
11,182 


•  1  Included  in  "All  other  manufactures  of"  after  1910. 

Carpet  industry  in  tie  United  States.— In  1909  there  were  139  estab- 
lishments in  the  United  States  producing  carpets  and  rugs,  with  a 
capital  of  $75,627,010.  These  establishments  employed  33,307  wage 
earners,  used  materials  valued  at  $39,458,308,  and  produced  goods 
valued  at  $71,188,152.  The  increase  in  the  value  of  products  durmg 
the  last  decade  was  47.71  per  cent.* 

1  See  page  232  for  further  particulars  regarding  the  carpet  industry. 


174 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  OM  SCHEDULE  K. 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


175 


fill 

II 


pPf 


Produdion  &f  carpets  in  the  United  Kingdom, — In  1907  the  United 
Kingdom  projuced  26,159,000  yards  of  carpets  valued  at  $16,239,511 
and  3,859,000  square  yards  of  rugs  valued  at  $2,949,099  and  178,000 
rugs,  returned  by  number,  valued  at  $179,526. 

Fersons  employed  in  carpet  industry  in  France  and  Germany, — Per- 
sons employed  in  Germany  in  1907  in  making  carpets  numbered  4,614. 
In  1906  there  were  7,500  persons  employed  in  the  manufacture  of 
carpets  in  France. 

Commerce  in  carpets  for  leading  forei^/n  countries, — The  imports  and 
exports  of  carpets  and  rugs  for  certain  leading  foreign  countries  is 
given  in  Table  140. 

Table  140. — Imports  and  exports  of  carpets  and  rugs  of  wooly  for  leading  countrieSf  in 

1909  and  1910. 


Country. 


United  States 

United  Kingdom... 
Germany 

fnmce 


Bdglmn 

Italy 

Austria-Hungary. . . 

Russia 

Persia.. 

Ottoman  Empire  *. 
Canada* 


XvUif 


Imports. 


Eiqwrts. 


1010 


Imports. 


Quantity. 


Pounds. 

1988,000 

11,544,003 

2,012,800 

/    261,906 

\U76,285 

421,254 

697,976 

1.315.484 

A  f  Uif/  fi  «««uf5 

41,165 


M  ,382, 300 


Vahie. 


$3, 748. 
2,7tK). 

}    771, 

211, 
360, 
956, 
614, 
15, 


5.5(1 
035 
246 

463 

527 

512 
191 
182 

785 


950,603 


Quantity 


Pounis. 

167,088 

16,844,600 

3.931,463 

ri.  548,511 

I      U,263 

472.415 
14,091 

732.809 
2.2SS.901 
6,599,781 


Value. 


166. 6.S3 
4,282.038 
1,810,228 

\    690,044 

« 164, 939 

5,250 

297,363 

1,015,358 

4,358,664 


Quantity. 


Pounds. 

il,143,l(i3 

11,660.9 

2,388,404 

"    268,9*31 

1211.936 

531,. S97 

788.365 

1,794,765 


{ 


s  1,996, 289 


Value. 


«4, 
2, 
2, 


1, 


619,170 
954. 7»>8 
224,686 

900,538 

29o. 098 
407,199 
480,629 


1,334,534 


Exports. 


Quantity 


Pounds. 

155,496 
19,071,400 
4,151.262 
1,814,380 
15,289 
529,585 
15,212 
823,859 


{ 


Value. 


) 


S57,152 
6,389.082 
1,874,012 

845,533 

180,483 

5,327 

361, 162 


» Square  yards. 
>  Includes  tapestry. 

*  For  exprts  from  Ottoman  Empire,  see  Table  156. 

«  Tliese  figures  do  not  Include  mats  and  rags,  for  which  vahie  only  was  glTcn,  as  follows:  In  1909,  $296,394; 
to  1910.  $414,874. 
•Yards. 

Paragraph  384.— AITBXTSSON",     AXHINSTEB,    MOQXTETTE,    AND 

CHENILLE   CABPETS. 

Aubusson,  Axminster,  moqiiette,  and  clienille  carpets,  fibred  or  plain,  and  all 
carpets  or  carpeting  of  like  character  or  de-scription,  sixty  cents  per  square  yard  and  in 
addition  thereto  forty  per  centum  ad  valorem. 

Making  Auhisson  and  Axminster  carpets. — ^The  carpets  dutiable 
under  paragraph  384  are  of  high  quality.  Aubusson  and  the  original 
Axminster  caipets  are  fine  hand-made  tufted  carpets.  The  former, 
bearing  the  name  of  the  city  in  France  where  it  is  made,  is  wrought 
on  a  tapestry  loom  in  one  |)iet  o  and  in  imitation  of  Indian  Carpets; 
the  latter,  named  for  the  citj  in  England  where  it  was  first  made, 
is  a  tufted  carpet  made  in  miitation  of  oriental  rugs.  In  making 
the  Aubusson  carpets  the  warp  is  mounted  on  the  tapestry  frame 
and  the  weft  is  inserted  by  the  weaver's  hand.  The  body  is  woven 
until  the  weaver  comes  to  the  figure,  when  another  yam  of  the  ap- 
propriate color  is  chosen  and  inserted.  The  Savoimene  carpets^  niaae 
on  a  high  warp  tapestry  loom,  may  bo  classed  in  q^uality  with  Au- 
busson carpets.  In  making  the  nand-made  Axminster  the  wara 
is  mounted  on  a  large  beam.    Before  the  loom  sit  the  weavers.  eacL 


»1 


of  whom  has  a  part  of  the  fabric  to  weave.  Each  weaver  hAs  his 
pattern  before  him,  guided  by  which  he  chooses  the  appropriate 
yam  and  ties  it  to  the  warp  strand,  and  then  cuts  the  end  of  the 
yarn  so  as  to  leave  tufts  erect  on  the  carpet.  When  one  row  of 
tufts  is  complete,  a  strong  filling  thread  is  used  to  bind  the  carpet 
together.  Each  tuft  of  wool  goes  throuo^h  to  the  back  of  the  carpet, 
so  that  a  hand-made  Axminster  will  last  tmtil  worn  completely 

through,  ,  _ 

Mogmtte  carpets. — Moquette  and  chenille  carpets  are  machine-made 
in  imftation  of  carpets  like  the  Axminster  and  other  fine-tufted  fab- 
rics. The  moquette  carpet  is  peculiarly  an  American  product  and 
is  made  by  an  ingenious  power  loom  wliich  ties  the  tufts  of  wool 
iuto  the  warp  in  a  way  similar  to  the  fingers  of  the  hand  weaver. 
The  term  Axminster  is  now  used  generally  to  designate  this  and 
similar  carpets  and  is  so  used  in  the  classification  of  the  United 
States  census.  Tliey  really  should  be  spoken  of  as  machine-made 
Axminsters  to  distinguish  them  from  the  finer  handmade  carpets  of 
that  name.  Moquette  and  machine-made  Axminster  carpets  consist 
of  a  ribbed  back  of  coarse  vegetable  material  and  a  deep  tufted  pile 
of  wool.  The  warp  to  wliich  the  tufts  are  fastened  and  the  body 
warp  which  gives  body  to  the  carpet  are  drawn  taut  on  tlie  loom: 
another  warp  is  mounted  with  these  but  left  looser  so  that  it  will 
weave  round  the  weft  thiead.  The  yam  for  making  the  tufts  is 
mounted  on  spools  opposite  where  it  is  to  enter  the  fabric.  When  the 
loom  is  in  motion  the  tufting  yarn  is  seized  and  caiiied  down  under 
the  tufting  warp  and  then,  while  being  held  in  place,  a  knife  cuts  the 
yarn  so  as  to  leave  two  ends  of  yarn  to  form  a  part  of  the  gro"v\Tiig  pile 
of  the  carpet. 

CTieniUe  carpets. — Chenille -carpets  are  woven  with  a  stout  vege- 
table fiber  yam  as  warp  and  a  chenille  filling.  Chenille  is  a  com- 
paratively thick  fringed  rope  which  resembles  a  caterpillar.  The 
making  of  chenille  is  an  independent  weaving  operation.  A  fabric 
is  first  woven  with  the  binding  warps  an  inch  or  more  apart.  It  is 
then  cut  midway  between  these  warps  and  the  ends  of  the  filling  yarn 
are  left  projectmg  with  the  warp  yarn  as  their  center.  This  soft, 
velvety  cord  is  now  used  in  a  loom  as  the  filling  for  chenille  carpets 
or  Smyrna  rugs.  The  chenille  forms  both  the  back  and  face  of  the 
carpet  and  gives  it  the  appearance  of  the  oriental  rug. 

Mate  of  duty  on  Aubusson,  etc.,  carpets. — The  rate  of  duty  on 
Aubusson,  Axminster,  moquette,  and  chenille  carpets  is  60  cents  per 
square  yard  and  40  per  cent  ad  valorem.  A  compensatory  rate  was 
first  levied  on  these  carpets  in  1883.  It  was  then  fixed  at  45  cents 
per  square  yard.  In  the  acts  of  1890,  1897,  and  1909  the  compen- 
satory rate  was  fixed  at  the  same  rate  as  on  Wiltons,  i.  e.,  60  cents 
per  square  yard.  In  general,  the  60  cents  per  square  yard  paid  on 
these  carpets  when  imported  is  reputed  to  compensate  the  domestic 
manufacturer  for  the  increase  in  the  price  of  liis  wool,  vegetable 
fiber,  and  chemicals,  due  to  the  tarilf  on  these  materials.  The 
nominally  protective  duty  is  40  per  cent  ad  valorem. 

Imports  of  Aubusson,  etc.,  carpets. — The  imports  of  Aubusson, 
Axminster,  moquette,  and  chenille  carpets  into  the  United  States  for 
certain  reT)resentative  years  is  sliown  in  Table  141.  The  average 
value  of  the  carpets  dutiable  under  paragraph  383  in  1896  was  S2.46 
per  square  yard;  in  1900,  $2.61  per  square  yard;  in  1905,  $2.04  per 


f 


M 


ill 
11 


176 


BEPOBT  OP  TAKIFF  BOAKD  ON  8CH1:DUI.E  K. 


square  yard;  in  1910,  $2.71  per  square  yard;  and  m  1911,  $1.92  per 
square  yard.  The  imports  are  comparatively  small,  and  the  com- 
puted rates  range  between  60  and  70  per  cent  ad  valorem.  The  rates 
act  to  prevent  the  importation  of  the  cheaper  grades  of  carpets. 

Table  Ul.—ImpoHs  ofAuhumm,  Axminster,  moquette,  and  chenille  carpets  entered  into 

the  United  States  for  consumplvyn. 


Fiscal  year 

ending 
June  30— 


1896 ». 
1900.. 
1905.. 
1910.. 
1911.. 


Rate  of  duty. 


40  per  cent -;•■:;« ;' 

60  cents  per  square  yard  and  40  per  cent. 

do 

do 

do 


Quantity. 


Square  fd». 

105,378 
10, 159 
18,748 
23,065 
24,351 


Value. 


1258,975 
26,504 
38,178 
62,700 
46,935 


Revenue 
derived. 


$103,590 
16,697 
26,520 
38,931 
33,385 


Ad  vatorem 
rate  of  duty 
(com- 
puted). 


40.00 
63.00 
69.46 
62.09 
71.13 


1  Includes  rugs.    Vnder  the  Wilson  bill. 


Production  of  AxmimUr  and  moqueUe  carpets.-^The  production  of 
machine-made  Axminster  and  moquette  carpets  m  the  Umted  btates 
in  1899  and  1909  is  shown  in  Table  142. 

Table  l42,-'Production  of  macMne-made  Axminster  and  moquette  carpets  in  the  United 

States.^ 


. 

1909 

1899 

Per  cent  of 
increase,    , 
1899-1909. 

12,507,261 
$13,680,806 

5,026,778 
$4,762,260 

148.81 
187.27 

DuuaTe  yaras. 

ValiiA                                                

V  aiuo ......--•••••••••••••-••••••• 

•  Includes  rugs  made  by  sewing  strips  ot  carpet  together. 

The  average  value  of  these  carpets  produced  in  the  United  States 
is  much  lower  than  the  average  value  of  the  carpets  unported  under 
the  paragraph  now  under  discussion.  In  1899  the  average  value  per 
squ^e  yird  was  95  cents;  in  1909,  $1.09.  Table  142  shows  that  the 
production  of  Axminster  and  moquette  c?^f  ^  "icrea^d  148  81  per 
cent  in  quantity  and  187.27  per  cent  m  value  between  1899  and  1909. 

Paragraphs  386  and  386.-BBTISSELS  AND  WILTON  CABPETS. 

or  description,  forty-four  cents  per  square  yard  and  m  addition  thereto  forty  per 
centum  ad  valorem. 

Carpets  of  385  and  386  defined.— Bm^n  and  Wilton  carpets  are 
amoni  the  ^est  made  by  machinery.  A  Brussels  carpet  has  a  veee- 
table-lber  back  with  a  worsted  warp  raised  on  it  m  the  form  of  a 
looped  pile.  A  Wilton  carpet  is  structurally  the  same  as  Brussels, 
except  tliat  the  pile  mstead  of  bemg  left  m  loops  is  cut  so  as  to  leave 
the  wool  fibers  erect  on  the  body  of  the  carpet.  This  gives  the  Wilton 
a  deep,  plush-Uke  surface.  More  wool  is  requu-edm  the  pile  of  a 
Wnton  than  in  the  pile  of  a  Brussels  carpet  and  it  is  therefore  more 


BEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  01^  SCHEDULE  K. 


177 


valuable.  A  Saxony  carpet  is  Wilton  carpet  made  in  oriental  pat- 
terns. A  Toumay  velvet  carpet  is  a  fine  quality  of  tapestry  velvet 
carpet  discussed  on  page  179. 

Processes  of  making  Brussels  and  Wiltons. — ^A  Brussels  carpet  haa 
two  warps.  The  one  is  the  basis  of  the  back  or  foundation  of  the 
fabric  and  is  made  of  coarse  vegetable  fiber;  the  other  consists  of 
worsted  and  forms  the  surface  of  the  carpet.  The  warps  are  mounted 
on  spools  at  the  back  of  the  loom,  a  separate  spool  bemg  usually 
devoted  to  each  color  in  the  surface  warp.  These  warp  yarns  are 
fed  into  the  loom  and  there  the  surface  warp  is  controlled  in  the 
weaving  operation  by  a  device  known  as  the  Jacquard  attachment. 
While  tills  device  is  complicated  in  mechanism,  it  is  simple  in  opera- 
tion. It  mechanically  selects  certain  warp  threads  and  raises  or 
lowers  them  according  to  the  pattern  to  be  woven,  and  it  makes  it 
possible  to  weave  varied  and  complicated  designs  which  would  be 
impossible  on  an  ordinary  loom.  The  warp  yarns  which  are  raised  in 
the  shedding  motion  are  woven  over  wires,  and  when  these  wires  are 
withdrawn  to  be  reioserted  mechanically  again  before  the  growing 
body  of  carpet  they  leave  the  loops  of  worsted  bound  firmly  mto  the 
back  of  the  carpet  by  means  of  a  linen  or  cotton  weft.  Stated  in 
another  way:  The  looped  and  yielding  pile  of  a  Brussels  carpet  is 
produced  by  interruptmg  the  worsted  warp  and  forcing  it  to  loop 
Itself  over  wires  which  are  subsequently  withdrawn.  The  weaving 
of  the  vegetable  foundation  of  the  carpet  goes  on  simultaneously  with 
the  surface  weaving.  The  number  of  frames,  as  the  tiers  of  spools  of 
warp  at  the  back  of  the  loom  are  called,  determines  the  number  of 
colors  that  can  appear  in  the  surface  of  the  carpet  in  anv  one  straight 
line.  If  each  frame  contains  one  color,  the  number  of  colors  in  the 
carpet  is  determined  by  the  number  of  frames.  If  the  frames  contain 
more  than  one  color  each,  there  still  can  be  no  more  colors  in  exactly 
a  straight  line  in  the  carpet  than  there  are  frames.  The  number  of 
frames  is  one  of  the  factors  which  determines  quality  in  Brussels  and 
Wiltons;  the  more  frames,  the  higher  the  quahty. 

The  Wilton  is  made  like  the  Brussels,  except  that  when  the  wires 
are  withdrawn  from  under  the  loops  formed  in  the  surface  warp  a 
knife  attached  to  the  end  of  the  wire  cuts  the  loops  and  leaves  the 
worsted  standing  erect  on  the  foundation  of  the  carpet.  This  velvety 
surface  is  then  leveled  by  shearing. 

Duties  on  Brussels  and  Wiltons, — ^The  rate  of  duty  on  Brussels 
carpet  imported  into  the  United  States  is  44  cents  per  square  yard 
and  40  per  cent,  and  on  Wilton  carpet  60  cents  per  square  yard  and 
40  per  cent.  The  compensatory  duty  on  Wiltons  (60  cents  per  square 
yard)  is  higher  than  on  Brussels  carpet  (44  cents  per  square  yard) 
because  more  wool  is  employed  in  the  making  of  the  pile  of  the  former 
than  of  the  latter.  The  pile  on  Wiltons  is  longer  and  has  more  fibers 
of  wool  in  a  given  area  than  Brussels  carpet.  The  loops  in  the  pile  of 
the  Brussels  enables  the  manufacturer  to  cover  the  surface  of  the 
carpet  by  employing  less  wool. 

Imports  ofjBrussds  carpet, — ^The  imports  of  Brussels  carpet  into  the 
United  States  for  certain  representative  years  is  presented  in  Table  143. 

32080"— H.  Doc.  342, 62-2,  vol  1 ^12 


Ml 


IM 


■  I 


178 


BEPORT   OF  TABIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


Table  14Z.— Imports  ofBrvmeh  carpets  entered  for  consumption  into  the  United  Statei. 


Fiscal  year 

ending 
June  30— 


1896". 
1900.. 
1905.. 
1910.. 
1911.. 


Rate  of  duty. 


40  per  cen  t 

44  cents  per  square  yard  and  40  per  cent. 

do 

do 

do. 


Quantity. 


Sq.  vardM. 

138,4^8 

28,388 

13,223 

6,782 

5,S07 


Value. 


$143, 165 

30,299 

14,705 

8,222 

7,567 


Revenue 
derived. 


$57,266 

24,010 

11,700 

6,273 

5,450 


Ad  valo- 
rem rate  of 
duty  (cora- 

putedj. 


40.00 
81.22 
79.57 
76.30 
72.02 


1  Under  the  Wilson  bill. 

The  average  value  per  square  yard  of  Brussels  carpet  imported  in 
1896  was  $1.03;  in  1900,  $1.07;  in  1905,  $1.11;  in  1910,  $1.21;  in 
1911,  $1.37.  The  imports  of  these  carpets  into  the  United  States  are 
negligible,  as  the  table  shows. 

Imports  of  Wilton  carpet. — The  imports  of  Wilton  and  similar  car- 
pets mto  tKe  United  States  for  certam  representative  years  is  shown 
m  Table  144. 

Table  144.— Imports  of  Samny,  Wilton,  and  Toumay  velvet  carpets  entered  for  con- 

sumption  into  the  United  States. 


Fiscal  year 

ending 
June  30— 


18961. 
1900.. 
1905.. 
1910.. 
1911.. 


Rate  of  duty. 


40  per  cent 

60  cents  per  square  yard  and  40  per  cent. 

do 

do 

do 


Quantity. 


8q.  ynrda. 
85,832 
54,938 
25,381 
20.451 
17,204 


Value. 


$128,^57 
89,773 
44,690 
40,711 
40,183 


Revenue 
derived. 


$51,223 
68,872 
33,104 
28,555 
26,396 


Ad  valo- 
rem rate  of 
duty  (com- 
puted). 


40.00 
76.72 
74.07 
70.14 
65.09 


I  Under  the  Wilson  bill. 

The  average  value  of  the  Wilton  carpets  imported  into  the  United 
States  is  higher  than  the  average  value  of  the  Brussels  carpets 
imported.  The  average  value  per  square  yard  of  Wilton  carpets 
imported  in  1896  was  $1.49;  in  1900,  $1.69;  in  1905,  $1.76;  in  1910, 
$1.99;  and  in  1911,  $2.33.     The  importsof  these  carpets  is  also  small. 

Production  of  Brussels  carpet  in  the  United  States, — The  production 
of  Brussels  carpet  in  the  Umted  States  for  1899  and  1909  is  shown  in 
Table  145. 

Table  145. — Frodwtion  of  Brussels  carpet  in  the  United  States.^ 


Square  yards. 
Value 


1900 


3,960,626 
$5,216,607 


1890 


2,686,493 
$2,979,867 


Per  cent 
of  increase, 


47.43 

75.06 


1  Includes  rugs  made  by  sewing  strips  of  carpet  together,  but  not  seamlesa  rugs. 

The  average  value  per  square  yard  of  these  carpets  produced  in 
1899  was  $1.11,  and  in  1909,  $1.32.    The  increase  in  production 


i 


EEPOET  OF  TARIFF  BOAED  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


179 


during  the  decade  amounted  to  47.43  per  cent  in  quantity,  75.06 

per  cent  in  value.  .^  .    ,  ^  ^.  ,       . 

Production  of  Wilton  carpets  in  the  Umted  States. — ^The  production 
of  Wilton  carpets  in  the  United  States  in  1899  and  1909  is  shown  in 
Table  146. 

Table  146. — Production  of  Wilton  carpets  in  the  United  ^States} 


Square  yards. 
Value 


1900 


4,576,368 
$8,737,768 


1800 


Per  cent 

of  increase, 

1899-1909. 


'3,587,128 
•$4,030,842 


27.58 
116.77 


I  Includos  rugs  made  by  sewing  strips  of  carpet  together,  but  not  seamless  rugs. 
«  Wilton  velvet  carpets  are  included  with  Wiltons  in  1899. 

These  figures  are  not  precisely  comparable,  since  Wilton  velvet 
carpets  are  included  in  the  figures  for  1899  and  not  in  1909,  but 
even  with  this  difference  in  favor  of  1899  the  increase  during  the 
decade  was  27.58  per  cent  in  quantity  and  116.77  per  cent  in  value. 
The  average  value  of  Wiltons  produced  in  1909  was  $1.91  per  square 
yard. 

Paragraphs  387  and  888.— TAPESTRY   BB.TTSSELS    AND    TAPESTRY 

VELVET  CARPETS. 

387.  Velvet  and  tapestry  velvet  carpets,  figured  or  plain,  printed  on  the  warp  or 
otherwise,  and  all  carpeta  or  carpeting  of  Uke  character  or  description,  forty  cents  per 
square  yard  and  in  addition  thereto  forty  per  centum  ad  valorem. 

388.  Tapestry  Brussels  carpets,  figured  or  plain,  and  all  carpets  or  carpeting  of  like 
character  or  description,  printed  on  the  warp  or  otherwise,  twenty-eight  cents  per 
square  yard  and  in  addition  thereto  forty  per  centum  ad  valorem. 

Tapestry  carpets  defined. — A  tapestry  Brussels  carpet  is  composed 
of  a  strong  vegetable-fiber  back  and  a  face  of  worsted  yarn.  As  dis- 
tinguished from  bodv  Brussels,  in  the  making  of  which  the  worsted 
yarn  is  mixed  with  the  body  of  the  fabric  in  tlie  process  of  weaving, 
the  tapestry  Brussels  has  all  the  worsted  yarn  on  the  surface.  For 
this  reason  it  is  less  durable  and  cheaper  than  the  body  Brussels. 
In  appearance  the  two  carpets  are  much  ahke,  both  having  the  looped 
and  varicolored  pile.  The  colors  in  the  tapestry  Brussels,  however, 
are  less  clear-cut  and  distinct  than  in  body  Brussels,  due  to  the  process 
of  manufacture,  which  will  be  explained.  Velvet  and  tapestry  velvet 
carpet  are  tapestry  Brussels  carpet  with  the  pile  cut.  They  tear  the 
same  relation  to  tapestry  Brussels  that  Wiltons  bear  to  body  Brussels 
carpets. 

Process  ofmaJdn^  tapestry  carpets. — The  phrase  "printed  on  the 
warp''  used  in  both  paragraph  387  and  388  suggests  the  distinguishing 
feature  of  the  process  of  making  tapestry  carpets.  The  elaborate 
arrangement  of  warps  in  frames  and  tne  Jacquard  attachment  neces- 
sary in  making  Brussels  and  Wilton  carpets  are  made  unnecessary  in 
tapestry-carpet  weaving  by  dyeing  the  warp  according  to  the  desired 
pattern  before  it  is  mounted  on  the  loom.  The  warp  is  dyed  in  care- 
fully adjusted  sections,  allowance  being  made  for  any  take-uj)  that 
may  occur  in  the  weaving  process.  When,  then,  the  warp,  as  in  the 
case  of  Brussels,  is  woven  over  wires,  the  colors  in  the  continuous 
warp  adjust  themselves  to  the  preconceived  pattern.     This  carpet 


f1 


Ml 


1 1  ill 


180 


REPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


can  be  made  on  a  common  loom  with  the  wire  attachment  for  raismg 
the  pile.  The  pile  of  velvet  carpets  is  produced  by  cutting  the  loops 
by  means  of  kmves  attached  to  thg  ends  of  the  wires.  Velvet  carpets 
have  a  plushlike  surface  similar  to  that  of  the  Wilton,  but  the  colors 
are  not  so  distinct  in  the  former  as  in  the  latter,  due  to  the  lack  of 
precise  harmony  in  dyeing  the  warp.  ^         , 

Duties  on  tapestry  carpets.— The  rate  of  duty  on  tapestry  Brussels 
carpet  is  28  cents  per  square  yard  and  40  per  cent,  and  on  velvet  and 
tapestry  velvet  carpets  40  cents  per  square  yard  and  40  per  cent. 
Less  wool  is  used  in  the  production  of  these  carpets  than  is  used  m 
either  Brussels  or  Wilton  carpets,  because  all  the  wool  is  on  the  sur- 
face, while  in  the  Brussels  or  Wilton  carpets  part  of  the  wool  is 
embedded  in  the  vegetable-fiber  foundatiofi.  For  this  reason,  the 
compensatory  rates  are  lower  on  the  tapestry  carpets.  Tapestry  vel- 
vet nas  a  higher  compensatory  rate  than  tapestry  Brussels  for  the 
same  reason  that  the  compensatory  rate  is  higher  on  Wiltons  than  on 
body  Brussels  carpet,  i.  e.,  because  more  wool  is  required  to  make  a 
plush-pile  surface  than  a  looped-pile  surface. 

Imparts  of  tapestry  Brussels.— The  imports  of  tapestry  Brussels  car- 
pets mto  the  United  States  for  certain  representative  years  axe  pre- 
sented in  Table  147.  The  average  value  per  square  yard  of  these 
carpets  imported  in  1896  was  59  cents;  in  1900,  71  cents;  m  1905, 
$1.33;  in  1910,  $1.15,  and  in  1911,  91  cents.  The  imports  are  eiven 
liere  not  because  they  are  of  importance  but  because  their  smaUness 
is  the  chief  significant  fact  relating  to  them. 


Table  147.- 


'ImporU  of  tapestry  Brussels  carpet  enUredfor  consumption  into  the  United 

States. 


Fiscal  year 

ending  June 

30— 


1896» 

1900 

1905 

1910 

1911 


Rate  of  duty. 


Quantity. 


42|  per  cent - • 

28  cents  per  square  yard  and  40  per  cent. 

do 

do 

do 


8q.  mrds. 

41,653 

483 

91 

163 

446 


Value. 


124,513 
343 
121 
187 
407 


Revenue 
derived. 


S10,418 

273 

73 

120 

288 


Ad  va]o> 
rem  rate  of 
duty  (com- 
puted). 


42.50 
79.47 
61.00 
64.41 
70.76 


1  Under  tlie  Witeon  bilL 


Imports  of  velvet  carpets.— The  imports  of  velvet  and  tai>estry  velvet 
carpets  into  the  UmW  States  for  certain  representative  years  is 
shown  in  Table  148. 

Table  US  ^Imports  of  velvet  and  tapestry  velvH  carpdM  enUredfor  consumpti^m  into 

the  United  States. 


Fiscal  year 

ending  June 

30— 


1900.. 
1905.. 
1910., 
1«11.. 


Rate  of  duty. 


40  per  cent -  ■  •  • ■  • 

40  cents  per  square  yard  and  40  per  cent. 

do 

do 

do 


Quantity. 


Sq.vards. 
75,919 
25,564 

27,286 
23,067 
23,004 


1102,356 
32,160 

41,058 
45,288 


Revmue 
derived. 


$40,942 
23,096 
29,284 
25,646 
27,317 


Ad  vak>- 
remrateof 
duty  (com- 
puted). 


40.00 
71.82 
63.74 
62. 4A 

caa2 


>  Under  ttu)  WiJson  bilL 


\ 


EEPOBT   OF   TARIFF   BOABD  ON   SCHEDTJLE   K. 


181 


These  carpets,  being  of  liigher  quality  than  tapestry  Brussels,  show 
a  higher  value.  The  average  value  per  square  yard  of  those  imported 
in  1896  was  $1.34;  m  1900,  $1.26;  in  1905,  $1.69;  in  1910,  $1.78;  and 
in  1911,  $1.97. 

Production  of  tapestry  Brussels  in  the  United  States. — The  production 
of  tapestry  Brussels  in  the  United  States  is  shown  in  Table  149. 

Table  149. — Production  of  tapestry  Brussels  carpets  in  the  United  States.^ 


Square  yards. 
Value 


1909 


11,405,514 
$8,576,906 


1899 


8,737,449 
$5,520,665 


Per  cent  of 
increase, 
1899-1909. 


30.54 
55.36 


» Includes  rugs  made  by  sewing  strips  of  carpet  together,  but  not  seamless  rugs. 

The  average  value  per  square  yard  of  tapestry  Brussels  carpet  pro- 
duced ia  the  United  States  in  1899  was  63  cents,  and  in  1909,  75  cents. 
The  increase  in  the  production  of  these  carpets  during  the  decade  was 
30.54  per  cent  in  quantity  and  55.36  per  cent  in  value. 

Production  of  velvet  carpets  in  the  United  States. — The  production  of 
tapestry  velvet  and  similar  carpets  in  the  United  States  in  1899  and 
1909  is  shown  in  Table  150. 

Table  150. — Production  of  tapestry  velvet  and  similar  carpets  in  the  United  States.^ 


Square  yards. 
Value 


1909 


6,927,198 
$5,514,130 


1899 


'4,280,066 
s $3, 743, 353 


Per  cent  of 
increase, 
1899-1909. 


61.85 
47.30 


» Includes  rags  made  by  sewing  strips  of  carpet  together,  but  not  seamless  rugs. 
«  Wilton  velvet  carpets  not  included  in  1899. 

The  average  value  per  square  yard  of  tapestry  velvet  carpets  pro- 
duced in  the  United  States  m  1909  was  79  cents.  The  figures  for  1909 
include  Wilton  velvet  carpets  which  are  not  included  in  1899.     This 

Qualification  must  be  considered  only  in  the  study  of  the  increase 
uring  the  decade  of  61.85  per  cent  in  quantity  and  47.30  per  cent  in 
value.  If  these  carpets  had  been  included  in  1899  the  rate  of  increase 
would  not  be  as  great.  * 

Paragraphs  380  and  300.— INGRAIN  CABPETS. 

389.  Treble  ingrain,  three-ply,  and  all  chain  Venetian  carpets,  twenty-two  cents 
per  square  yard  and  in  addition  thereto  forty  per  centum  ad  valorem. 

390.  Wool  Dutch  and  two-ply  ingrain  carpets,  eighteen  cents  per  square  yard  and 
in  addition  thereto  forty   per  centum  ad  valorem. 

Ingrain  carpets  defined. — ^As  distinguished  from  Brussels,  Wilton, 
and  tapestry  carpets,  ingrain  carpets  have  no  pile  but  are  woven  flat. 
The  name  "ingrain"  refers  to  the  fact  that  the  material  in  these  car- 
pets is  dyed  in  the  grain  before  manufacture.  They  consist  of  webs 
mterlaced  together,  the  warp  being  worsted,  the  filling  woolen  yam. 
When  two  webs  of  material  are  woven  together,  the  carpet  is  called 


Ill 

I 


til 


H 


I 


182 


BEPORT  OF  TABIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDUIiE   K. 


2-ply  ingrain;  when  three  webs  are  woven  together  it  is  called  treble 
ingrain.  These  carpets  are  called  Kidderminster  carpets  in  England 
(from  the  town  of  that  name).  Ingrain  carpets  are  generally  less 
valuable  than  pile  carpets.  They  are  made  on  looms  with  a  Jacquard 
attachment  which  raises  and  depresses  the  warp  threads  in  orcler  to 
produce  the  pattern  desired. 

A  chain  Venetian  carpet  is  a  species  of  inexpensive  inOTain  carpet 
made  with  a  worsted  or  cotton  warp  and  a  jute  filling.  It  is  woven 
in  stripes  and  squares  and  used  for  covering  such  places  as  stairs 
and  hall  floors. 

Wool  Dutch  carpet,  now  little  used,  is  a  coarse,  heavy  carpet  woven 
in  stripes  and  similar  in  appearance  to  ingrain  carpet. 

Duties  on  ingrain  carpets. — ^The  rate  of  duty  on  2-ply  ingrain  car- 
pet is  18  cents  per  square  yard  and  40  per  cent,  and  on  treble-ingrain 
carpet  22  cents  per  square  yard  and  40  per  cent.  In  making  ingrain 
carpets,  both  the  top  or  combed  wool  and  the  noil  or  short  wool  can 
be  used,  the  former  for  the  warp  and  the  latter  for  the  filling.  Because, 
therefore,  the  noil  can  be  used  in  ingrain,  the  amount  of  the  wool 
required  per  square  yard  is  less  than  m  pile  carpets  in  the  making  of 
which  the  noil  is  considered  waste.  For  this  reason,  the  compensa- 
tory rates  are  lower  on  the  former  than  on  the  latter.  Two-ply 
ingrain  carpets  when  imported  pay  18  cents  per  square  yard  to  put 
the  domestic  manufacturer  on  the  same  basis  as  his  foreign  com- 
petitor who  has  free  materials.  More  material  is  used  in  treble- 
mgrain  carpets  and  the  compensatory  rate  is  therefore  higher  (22 
cents  per  square  yard).  These  rates  are  of  course  more  than  neces- 
sary for  compensation  on  those  carpets  in  which  vegetable  fiber  m 
extensively  used. 

Imports  ofB'ply  ingrain  carpet.— The  imports  of  2-ply  mgram  car- 
pet into  the  United  States  for  certain  representative  years  are  pre- 
sented in  Table  151.  The  imports  in  this  table  are  so  small  that  any 
comments  based  on  them  would  be  misleading. 

Table  151.— Jmporto  of  Dutch  wool  and  2-ply  ingrain  carpets  entered  for  consumption 

into  the  United  States. 


Fiscal  year 

ending 
June  30— 


18861. 
1900.. 
1005.. 
1910.. 
1911.. 


Rate  of  duty. 


30  per  cent 

18  cents  per  square  yard  and  40  per  cent . 

do 

do 

....do 


Quantity. 


Sq.  yards. 

24,853 

9,350 

2,256 

27 

10 


Valoe. 


.$14,646 

5,231 

2,270 

22 

12 


Revenue 
dwived. 


$4,393 

3,776 

1,314 

13 

A 


ALdvaloretli 

rate  of 
duty  (com- 
puted). 


30.00 

72.17 
57.88 
62.50 
60.00 


I  Under  the  Wilson  bill. 


Impiyrts  of  irelleAngrain  carpets. — ^The  imports  of  treble-mgrain 
carpets  into  the  United  States  for  certain  representative  years  are 
presented  in  Table  152.  The  average  value  per  square  yard  of 
treble-ingrain  carpets  imported  in  1896  was  75  cents;  in  1900,  73 
cents;  in  1905,  77  cents;  in  1910,  90  cents;  and  in  1911,  88  cents. 


i 


BEPOET  OF  TABIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDXTLE  K. 


183 


Table  152. — Imports  of  treble  ingrain,  S-ply,  and  all  chain  Venetian  carpets  entered  for 

consumption  into  the  United  States. 


Fiscal  year 

ending 
June  30 — 

Bate,  of  duty. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Revenue 
derived. 

Ad  valorem 
rate  of 

duty  (com- 
puted). 

18961 

32i  per  cent 

Sg.  yards. 

23,737 

11,056 

14,205 

1,863 

4,836 

$17,745 

8,105 

11,000 

1.675 

4,253 

$5,767 
6,674 
7,525 
1,078 
2,766 

32.60 
70  oi 

1900 

22  cents  per  square  yard  and  40  per  cent. 
do 

1905     .... 

Aft  41 

1910 

do 

64.36 
6.^  01 

1911 

do 

t  Under  the  Wilson  bill. 


Production  of  ingrain  carpets  in  the  United  States. — The  production 
of  all  ingrain  carpets  in  the  United  States  for  1899  and  1909  is  shown 
in  Table  153. 

Table  153. — Produt^ion  of  ingrain  carpets  in  the  United  States.^ 


1900 

1899 

Per  cent  of 
decrease, 
189»-1909. 

Bquare  yards 

17,799,762 
$6,749,672 

39,920,849 
$14,368,930 

5S.41 
53.08 

Value 

I  Includes  both  2  and  3  ply  ingrains,  but  not  ingrain  art  squares. 

The  average  value  per  square  yard  of  ingrain  carpets  produced  in 
the  United  States  in  1899  was  36  cents,  and  in  1909,  38  cents,  a  value 
much  below  the  value  of  those  imported.  The  production  of  these 
carpets  shows  a  decided  decline  during  the  decade,  a  decline  of  55.41 
per  cent  in  quantity  and  53.03  per  cent  in  value.  In  part,  at  least, 
this  decline  may  be  ascribed  to  the  popularity  and  cheapening  in 
production  of  velvet  and  tapestry  Brussels  carpet.  These  pile  fabrics 
being  more  attractive  than  ingrain,  they  have  come  more  generally 
into  use.  The  desire  of  the  pubHc,  also,  for  polished  floors  and  rugs 
has  caused  the  production  or  ingrain  carpets  to  decline  and  the  pro- 
duction of  ingrain  art  squares  to  increase.     (See  Table  155.) 

Paragraph  391.-— BUGS. 

Carpets  of  every  description,  woven  whole  for  rooms,  and  Oriental,  Berlin,  Auhusson, 
Axminster,  and  similar  rugs,  ten  cents  per  square  foot  and  forty  per  cent  ad  valorem: 
Provided,  That  in  the  measurement  of  all  mats,  rugs,  carpets  and  similar  articles,  of 
whatever  material  composed,  the  selvage,  if  any,  shall  be  included. 

Rugs  dutiable  under  paragraph  391  are  of  two  kinds,  (a)  machine- 
made  rugs,  which  are  structurally  like  the  carpets  mentioned  in 
paragraphs  384  to  391,  inclusive,  but  which  are  woven  whole  for 
rooms  on  the  loom;  (b)  hand-made  rugs,  such  as  the  Aubusson  from 
France,  the  Axminster  from  England,  and  the  Oriental  rugs  from 
both  the  Near  and  Far  East. 

Machine-made  rugs  are  made  on  looms  of  similar  structure  to  the 
carpet  looms,  except  that  they  are,  for  large  rugs,  wider.  Many  rugs 
are  produced  in  the  United  States  on  10  and  12  foot  looms. 


». 


A04 


REPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


11 


Oriental  rugs  are  imported  chiefly  from  India,  Persia,  and  the 
Ottoman  Empire.  A  Mgh  duty  is  levied  upon  their  importation, 
both  for  revenue  purposes  and  in  order  to  nrevent  them  from  supplant- 
ing machine-made  domestic  carpets.  Oriental  rugs  are  made  by 
hand.  The  weaver,  sitting  before  the  simple  loom,  chooses  a  yam 
from  an  assortment  previously  prepared  and  attaches  it  to  the  warp 
thread  by  a  running  knot.  The  knot  is  pressed  home  with  a  rude 
comb  and  the  pile  leveled  with  a  pair  of  shears.  The  artistic  effects 
in  Oriental  rugs  are  well  known,  but  any  attempt  to  describe  their 
variety  and  style  would  require  more  space  than  it  is  possible  to  give 
here. 

Oriental  rugs  are  classed  as  Turkish,  Persian,  Daghestan,  and 
Indian.  The  Daghestan  are  the  rugs  made  in  or  near  the  Caucasus 
Mountains.  The  Indian  rugs  are  made  by  the  natives  of  India. 
The  increasing  demand  for  these  oriental  rugs  has  led  to  the  organ- 
ization of  the  industry  in  the  Orient.  Merchants  have  established 
factories  both  in  Turkey  and  Persia.  Constantinople  is  the  greatest 
oriental  rug  market  in  the  world.  Smyrna  is  of  mcreasing  import- 
ance. The  oriental  rug  industry  uses  maiw  of  the  same  kinds  of 
carpet  wools  as  aie  ^pped  to  tne  United  States  for  the  use  of  our 
manufacturers. 

Rua  jproviso, — ^Before  the  act  of  1909,  the  importers  had  claimed 
that  m  measuring  the  square  yards  in  a  carpet  the  selvedge,  i.  e..  the 
edge  of  the  carpet  which  prevents  ravehng  out  of  the  body  of  the 
fabric,  should  not  be  included.  The  Government  won  its  conten- 
tion that  it  should,  but  all  doubt  was  removed  by  the  inclusion  of  the 
proviso  in  the  law  of  1909. 

Duties  on  rti^«.— The  rate  of  duty  on  rugs  of  eveiy  description  is 
90  cents  per  square  yard  and  40  per  cent.  The  compensatory  duty 
here  of  90  cents  per  square  yard  is  stated  m  paragraph  391  as  ''10 
cents  per  square  foot.'*  Just  why  the  phraseology  was  changed  in 
this  paragraph  from  what  it  is  in  the  others  is  not  evident.  It  is  the 
only  compensatory  rate  m  Schedule  K  levied  on  the  square  foot .  This 
duty  is  30  cents  per  square  yard  higher  than  the  compensatory  rate 
on  carpets  which  are  structurally  the  same,  dutiable  under  paragraph 
384.  when  it  is  remembered  that  the  compensatory  rate  is  intended 
onlv  to  compensate  the  domestic  manufacturer  for  materials  used  in 
carpeting  similar  to  those  imported,  it  is  not  clear  why  the  compen- 
satory rate  should  be  higher  on  a  square  yard  of  rug  than  on  a  square 
yard  of  carpet  of  like  structure  and  material.  It  is  true  that  there 
IS  slightly  more  yam  waste  on  a  broad  rug  loom  than  on  a  narrow 
carpet  loom.  This,  however,  does  not  justify  raisuig  the  compensa- 
tory duty  60  per  cent.  It  is  said  that  the  duty  should  be  higher 
on  oriental  and  other  high-grade  rugs  because  they  are  articles  of 
luxury.  Granting  this  to  be  true,  the  increase  in  rates,  if  the  theory 
on  which  Schedule  K  is  constmcted  is  to  be  followed,  should  be,  not 
in  the  specific  or  compensatory  rates,  but  in  the  ad  valorem  or  pro- 
tective rates.  A  rate  levied  on  the  weight  of  ni^  does  not  bear  so 
heavily  on  the  expensive  as  on  the  cheap  rugs.  In  fact,  the  rate  of 
90  cents  per  square  yard  acts  to  prevent  the  importation  of  all  rugs 
except  the  very  highest  grades  ana  the  market  for  cheap  and  medium 
rugs  is  supphed  entirely  by  the  domestic  products.  It  follows, 
therefore,  tnat  the  compensatory  rate  on  mgs  not  merely  compensates 
the  domestic  manufacturer  but  also  gives  him  added  protection. 


i 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOARD   ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


185 


I 


f 


Imports  of  rugs  into  the  United  States. — The  imports  of  oriental  and 
other  similar  rugs  into  the  United  States  for  certain  representative 
years  are  presented  in  Table  154. 

Table  154. — Imports  of  oriental,  Berlin,  Auhitsson,  Axminster,  and  other  similar  rugs, 

entered  for  consumption  into  the  United  States. 


Fiscal  year 

ending  Jiui« 

30- 

Rate  of  duty. 

Quantity. 

Vahie. 

Revenue 
derived. 

Ad  valorem 
rate  of  duty 
(computed). 

1900 

90  cents  per  square  yard  and  40  i>er  cent. . 
do 

Square  yds. 

649,111 

684,334 

1,004,009 

886,151 

$2,329,106 

2,708,744 
4,392,786 
3,686,367 

SI,  515, 842 
1,699,398 
2,660,723 
2,272,083 

fA  (M 

1905 

€\0  7A 

1910 

do 

AO  h7 

1911 

do 

61  fi3 

More  carpetings  are  imported  under  paragraph  391  than  under  any 
of  the  carpet  paragraphs,  and  imports  here  consist  chiefly  of  oriental 
rugs,  which,  while  to  some  extent  taking  the  place  of  domestic-made 
rugs  in  the  home  market,  are  of  greater  value  than  any  produced  in 
this  country.  The  average  value  per  square  yard  of  rugs  imported 
in  1910  was  $4.37,  and  in  1911,  $4.11. 

Production  of  rugs  in  the  United  States. — The  production  of  rugs  in 
the  United  States  m  1899  and  1909  is  shown  in  Table  155. 

Table  155. — Production  of  seamless  rugs  in  the  United  States. 


Ruga  woven  wbole: 
Square  yards. 
Value 


Axminster  and  moquette — 

Square  yards 

Value 

Wilton- 
Square  yards 

Value 

Ingrain  art  squares— » 

Square  yards 

Value 

Smyrna — 

Sqixare  yards 

Value 

All  other  rugs- 
Square  yards 

Value 


1909 


24,042,152 
$18^490,449 


3,184,097 
$3,691,900 

767,248 
$1,381,562 

6,131,862 
$2,408,960 

1,400,233 
$1,660,322 

12,558,712 
$9,347,705 


1899 


Per  cent  of 
increase, 
1S99-1909. 


12,171,289 
$8,145,232 


327,598 
$342,262 

339,784 
$545,967 

2,722,323 
$1,175,961 

3,651,661 
$3,680,618 

5,129,923 
$2,400,434 


97.53 
127.01 


871.95 
978.68 

125.80 
153.05 

125.24 
104.85 

>61.65 

*M.m 

144.81 
289.42 


>  The  production  of  ingrain  art  squares  in  1904  was  7,135,546  square  yards,  valued  at  $2,785,457. 
'  Decrease. 

The  increase  in  the  production  of  rugs  during  the  decade  as  shown 
in  Table  1 55  is  veiy  significant.  It  shows  that  the  pubhc  is  demanding 
its  carpetings  in  tne  form  of  rugs  now  much  more  than  it  did  10  years 
ago  and  that  carpet  mills  are  meeting  this  demand  now  by  weaving 
more  seamless  rugs  instead  of  by  sewing  together  strips  of  carpeting. 
The  increase  in  the  production  of  Axminster  and  moquette  rugs  during 
the  decade  was  871.95  per  cent  in  quantity  and  978.68  per  cent  in 
value.  Wilton  rugs  increased  in  production  125.80  per  cent  in  quan- 
tity and  153.05  per  cent  in  value.  Ingrain  art  squares  increased  in 
production  125.24  per  cent  in  quantity  and  104.85  per  cent  m  value 


186 


REPORT  OP  TABIFF  BOABD  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


during  the  decade,  but  the  output  in  1909  was  less  than  in  1904. 
Smjma  rugs — i.  e.,  rugs  made  from  chenille  yams— are  the  only  rugs 
which  show  a  decrease.  They  decreased  61 .65  per  cent  in  quantity  and 
64.89  per  cent  in  value. 

Exports  of  rugs  from  the  Ottoman  Empire, — ^Export  figures  for  the 
Ottoman  Empire  are  so  unreliable  that  it  has  been  thought  best  not 
to  use  them.  Some  index,  however,  of  the  exports  of  rugs  from  the 
Ottoman  Empire  may  be  obtained  from  taking  the  imports  of  carpet- 
ings  into  the  leading  countries  of  the  world  from  the  Ottoman  Empire. 
These  facts  are  presented  in  Table  156. 


Table  156.- 


-Imports  of  woolen  ceayetsfrom  Ottoman  Empire  into  the  leading  countriei 

during  1910. 


Country. 


United  States.... 
United  Kingdom. 

Fnwce 

Oennany 

Italy 

Belgium 

Austria-Hungary. 
Netberiands 


Quantity. 


Square  yds. 
750,615 
370,305 
153,336 

U,  761,034 

S«40,786 

156,782 

11,360,238 


Value, 


$3,263,631 

1,315,284 

494,852 

1,783,096 

«21,066 

49,000 

1,238,479 

*  4,223 


1  Pounds. 


«  Figures  for  1909. 


Paragraph  392.— BBXTOaETS  AND  BOCKINOS. 

Druggets  and  bockings,  printed,  colored,  or  otherwise,  twenty-two  cents  per  square 
yard  and  in  addition  thereto  forty  per  centum  ad  valorem. 

A  dnigget  is  a  coarse  woolen  material,  felted  or  woven,  used  as  a 
carpet  lining  or  as  carpet.  Baize  is  dutiable  under  this  head.  Book- 
ing is  a  name  for  a  coarse  woolen  drugget  or  baize.  The  name  comes 
from  Bocking,  England,  where  it  was  first  made. 

Duty  on  druggets,  etc.— The  rate  of  duty  on  druggets  and  bockings 
is  22  cents  per  square  yard  and  40  per  cent.  This  is  the  same  duty 
as  is  levied  on  treble  ingrain  carpets. 

Imports  of  druggets  and  hochings,— The  imports  of  druggets  and 
bocking  into  the  United  States  for  certain  representative  years  are 
shown  m  Table.  157. 

Table  157. — Import*  of  druggeit  and  bockings  entered  for  consumption  into  the  United 

States. 


Fiscal  year 

ending 
June  30— 


18961. 
1900.. 
1905.. 
1910. . 
1911.. 


Rate  of  duty. 


30  per  cent 

22  cents  per  square  yard  and  40  per  cent. 

do 

do 

do 


Quantity. 


Valua 


Square  yds. 

1,592 

4,409 

5,992 

36,638 

24,867 


$778 

2,367 

3,854 

30,587 

21,524 


Revenue 
derived. 


1234 

1,917 

2,860 

20,273 

14,080 


Ad  valorem 
rate  of  duty 
(computed). 


30.00 
80.99 
74.20 
66.28 
66.41 


t  Under  the  Wllaon  bilL 


I.* 


BEPORT  OF  TAEIFF   BOARD   ON   SCHEDULE  K, 
Paragraph  393.— CABPETS,  N.  S.  P.  P. 


187 


Carpets  and  carpeting  of  wool,  flax,  or  cotton,  or  composed  in  part  of  any  of  them, 
"y  provided  for  in  this  section,  and  mats,  matting,  and  rugs  of  cotton,  fifty 
per  centum  ad  valorem. 


not  specially 


Cotton  carpets  and  rugs,  straw  mats,  matting,  felt  carpets  and  all 
other  carpets  not  specially  provided  for  in  the  schedule  are  dutiable 
under  paragraph  393.  (Jarpets,  mats,  and  rugs,  however,  made  in 
chief  value  of  flax,  hemp,  and  jute,  are  dutiable  under  paragraph  344 
in  Schedule  J. 

Duty  on  carpets,  n.  s.  p.f — Due  to  the  fact  that  the  majority  of  the 
carpets  or  carpeting  dutiable  under  this  paragraph  contain  no  wool, 
no  compensatory  duty  is  levied  on  their  importation.  The  protective 
duty  is  50  per  cent  ad  valorem. 

Imports  of  felt  carpeting. — The  imports  of  felt  carpeting  into  the 
United  States  for  certain  representative  years  are  presented  in 
Table  158: 

Table  15S.— Imports  of  felt  carpeting  entered  for  consumption  into  the  United  States. 


Fiscal  year  ending 
June  30— 

Rate  of  duty. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Revenue 
derived. 

Ad  valorem 
rate  of 
duty. 

1890 

30  per  cent 

Sq.  yds. 

6,346 

1,422 

1,795 

42 

46 

$3,097 

533 

2,635 

43 

193 

$929 

266 

1,317 

21 

96 

30 
50 
50 
50 
50 

1900 

50  Der  cent . . 

1905 

do 

1910 

.....  do. ........ 

1911 

do.... 

Imports  of  carpets. — Imports  of  carpets  not  specially  provided  for 
are  shown  in  Table  159: 

Table  159. — Imports  of  carpets  entered  for  consumption  into  the  United  States. 


Fiscal  year  ending 
June  30— 

Rate  of  duty. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Revenue 
derived. 

Ad  valorem 
rate  of 
duty. 

1896 

30  'Dcr  cent 

8q.  yds. 
18,291 
25,035 
21,097 
27, 11-i 
25,103 

$16,507 
26,758 
36,949 
40,762 
35,005 

$4,952 
13,379 
18,474 
20,381 
17,503 

80 
50 

50 
50 
60 

1900 

50  Der  cent . . . 

1905 

do 

1910 

do.... 

1911 

do 

Paragraph  394.— ARTICLES  MADE  OP  CARPET  MATERIAL. 

Mats,  rugs  for  floors,  screens,  covers,  hassocks,  bed  sides,  art  squares,  and  other 
portions  of  carpets  or  carpeting  made  wholly  or  in  part  of  wool,  and  not  specially  pro- 
vided for  in  this  section,  shall  be  subjected  to  the  rate  of  duty  herein  imposecf  on 
carpets  or  carpetings  of  like  character  or  description. 

Paragraph  394  merely  provides  that  articles  made  from  carpets 
shall  pav  the  same  duty  as  the  carpet  or  carpetings  from  which  they 
are  made  would  have  to  pay.  Screens  made  from  Brussels  carpet, 
for  example,  would  pay  a  duty  of  44  cents  per  square  yard  and  40  per 
cent. ;  hassocks  made  of  treble  ingrain  carpet  would  pay  a  duty  of 
22  cents  per  square  yard  and  40  per  cent  ad  valorem,  etc.     The 


T 


m 


188 


BEPORT   OF   TABIFF  BOARD   ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


I 


imports  under  this  paragraph  never  amount  to  more  than  a  few 
dollars  in  value. 

SITMMABT  OF  MANTTFACTXTBES  OP  WOOL. 

Imports  ofaM  manwfactures  of  wool, — The  imports  of  all  manufac- 
tures of  wool  into  the  United  States,  excluding  partially  manufactured 
products  and  yam,  are  presented  in  Table  160. 

Table  160. — Total  imports  of  manufactures  of  wool  (excluding  yams  and  other  parHallif 
manufactured  products)  entered  for  consumption  into  the  United  States. 


Value. 

Revenue 
derived. 

Ad  valo- 
rem rate 
of  duty 
(computed). 

Fiscal  year  ending  June  30— 

18961 

146,807,631 
15,428,519 
17,800,506 
22,518,120 
18,412,900 

122,527,828 
14,123,429 
16,373,626 
20,422,187 
16,273,576 

48.13 
91.54 
91.98 
90.fi9 
8a  38 

1900 #. 

1905 

1910 

1911 

>  Under  tlie  Wilson  bUl. 

The  imports  for  the  years  1900,  1905,  1910,  and  1911  are  repre- 
sentative under  the  rates  of  the  present  law  (the  laws  of  1897  and 
1909  were  substantially  the  same).  The  computed  ad  valorem  rate 
of  duty  must  not,  however,  be  taken  as  a  measure  of  the  rates  on 
manufactures  under  Schedule  K.  It  is  rather  a  measure  of  the  rates 
on  the  goods  imported  xmder  the  highest  value  classifications  in 
Schedule  K.  The  one  important  exception  to  this  statement  is  the 
importation  of  cheap  dress  goods.  A  little  over  70  per  cent  of  the 
imports  in  1910  consisted  of  oriental  ru^  and  dress  goods  and  cloths 
classified  in  the  highest  value  classifications  of  the  schedule,  and  the 
remainder  of  the  imports  were  distributed  under  all  the  other  classi- 
fications of  the  paragraphs  treating  with  manufactures.  This  pro- 
portion of  high-grade  goods  to  the  medium  and  cheaper  grades  is 
typical  under  the  rates  of  the  acts  of  1897  and  1909.  The  compen- 
satory rates,  which  bear  most  heavily  on  the  cheaper  goods,  virtually 
operate  to  exclude  them  from  the  country.  The  computed  ad  valo- 
rem rate,  which  includes  both  the  compensatory  and  ad  valorem 
rates,  on  such  goods  as  were  imported  in  1900,  was  91.54  per  cent; 
in  1905,  91.98  per  cent;  in  1910,  90.69  per  cent;  and  in  1911,  88.38 
per  cent.  Under  the  act  of  1894  the  compensatory  rates  were  absent; 
the  computed  ad  valorem  rate  on  the  importations  of  1896  was  48.13. 
The  imports  at  that  time  included  goods  of  all  grades.  If  the  cheaper 
grades  of  goods  had  been  imported  under  the  acts  of  1897  and  1909 
m  the  same  value  or  even  quantity  as  the  liigh-grade  goods,  the 
computed  ad  valorem  rates  for  the  years  since  1897  would  be  con- 
siderably higher  than  they  are. 

Imports  OfaM  manufactures,  hy  countries. — ^The  imports  of  all  man- 
ufactures or  wool,  including  yam,  into  the  United  States,  by  countries, 
are  shown  in  Table  161.  The  United  Kingdom,  Germany,  and 
France  are  the  important  source  of  these  imports.  The  substantial 
imports  from  the  Turkish  Empire  are  rugs. 


EEPOET  OP  TABIFF  BOAKD  ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


189 


Table  161. — Imports  of  all  manufactures  of  wool  {including  yams),  by  countries,  entered 
for  immediate  consumption  or  for  warehouse  into  the  United  States. 


Country  of  origin. 


Austria-Hungary 

Belgium 

France 

Germany 

Italy 

Netherlands 

Russian  Empire 

Switzerland 

Turkish   Empire,   including   Egypt   and 

Bulgaria 

ITnited  Kingdom 

Canada 

Mexico 

British  East  Indies,  including  India 

Japan 

other  countries 


1896 

1900 

1905 

1910 

$237,638 

195,873 

$260,197 

$456,211 

623,884 

166,691 

211,829 

638,257 

7,684,706 

2,705,651 

2,868,288 

3,866,616 

11,304,516 

3,341,719 

3,260,561 

4,785,888 

12.884 

5,607 

10,260 

29,277 

4,724 

5,406 

3,900 

6,805 

727 

52,710 

29,072 

94,002 

282,069 

87.377 

87,388 

108,021 

1,202,584 

1, 80^,517 

2,049,338 

3,288,095 

29,312,706 

7,559,004 

8,727,569 

9,612,444 

47,509 

21,912 

30,877 

41,851 

8,247 

5,680 

7,664 

13,186 

31,697 

169.601 

128,974 

100,467 

•ij  yuy 

8,379 

8,039 

23,696 

30,552 

46,530 

132,829 

472,359 

1911 


$357,124 

568,880 

2,760,010 

3,209,604 

24,007 

24,207 

141,405 

132,645 

1.901,614 

8,271,773 

44,311 

18,309 
104,177 

18,226 
977,490 


Total  output  of  the  wool-using  industries  in  the  United  States. — Table 
162  presents  the  total  output  of  all  products  of  the  wool-using  indus- 
tries in  the  United  States  in  1899  and  1909.  The  output  of  the 
hosiery  and  knit-goods  iudustry  includes  cotton  knit  goods. 

Table  162. —  Total  products  of  wool  manufactures  in  the  United  States j  1899  and  1909, 


Industry. 


Worsted  goods 

Woolen  ^ods 

Hosiery  and  knit  goods 

Carpets  and  rugs 

Felt  goods 

Woolfelthats 


1909 


$312,624,663 

107,118,858 

200,143,527 

71,188,152 

11,862,626 

4,382,411 


1899 


$120,314,344 

118,430,158 

96,482,566 

48,192,361 

6,461,691 

3.501,946 


Percent 
of  increase, 
1899-1909. 


159.84 
19. 5S 

109.61 
47.71 
83.43 
22.01 


1  Decrease. 


Table  162  includes  a  certain  amount  of  duplication.  Partially 
manufactured  products,  such  as  tops  and  yams,  and  by-products, 
such  as  waste  and  noils,  are  reported  as  products  made  for  sale  by 
some  mills  and  many  of  them  are  purchased  subsequently  by  other 
mills  and  are  incorporated  in  the  value  of  the  product  of  these  ndUs. 
Not  all  the  partially  manufactured  products,  however,  made  for  sale 
are  counted  twice  in  the  census  returns.  Some  of  these,  particularly 
yams,  are  sold  for  use  in  shop  and  households  where  they  are  madfe 
mto  knitted  and  other  articles  by  hand.  In  order  to  get  at  the  net 
product,  the  census  subtracts  from  the  gross  products — those  in 
Table  162 — the  value  of  the  waste  and  noils,  tops,  woolen  and  worsted, 
and  merino  yarns  and  hat  bodies  reported  as  materials.  If  the 
imports  and  exports  of  partially  manufactured  products  or  by-products 
were  of  any  importance,  they  would  further  complicate  the  problem, 
but  they  are  so  small  that  they  may  be  disregarded. 

Imports  and  production  of  yams  and  tops  compared. — ^It  is  interesting 
to  make  a  comparison  between  the  imports  and  production  of  tops  and 
yarns  in  the  United  States. 

As  already  shown  on  page  168,  tops  are  practically  not  imported  at 
all.  At  no  time  since  the  act  of  1897  went  into  effect  has  the  annual 
importation  of  tops  exceeded  4,000  pounds.    The  Census  Bureau  does 


190 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


I  ?        ' 

IM 


EEPOBT  OF  TAEIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


191 


not  report  the  amount  of  tops  made  in  worsted  mills  for  their  own  use. 
fi"*-.^?  o^^  entirely  safe  in  saying  that  the  production  of  tops  in  the 
Umted  States  m  1909  was  over  170,000,000  pounds.  (See  p  108  ) 
,  At  no  time  smce  the  act  of  1897  went  into  effect  has  the  annual 
miportation  of  yarns  amounted  to  over  400,000  pounds  and  this  yarn 
was  only  of  the  highest  count  and  value.  It  could  hardly  be  said  to 
compete  with  domestic  yarn.     In  any  case  the  yam  imported  is  less 

;5*^^  ,  ?^^^  ^^  ^  P^^  ^^^  ^^  *^®  yarns  produced  in  the  country 
(See  Tables  196,  202,  209,  214,  and  217.)  ^' 

Imports  arid  production  of  manufactures  of  wool  C(mjpared. —Com- 
parjLson  of  production  and  miports  of  manufactures  of^wool  can  be 
made  only  by  values,  for  the  units  of  quantity  vary.  Comparisons 
by  value  always  favor  imports,  because,  as  has  been  pointed  out 
repeatedly  m  this  report,  the  average  value  of  the  goods  imported  is 
hjgher  than  the  average  value  of  goods  produced  in  the  United  States. 
4.  ui  ^^^*  ®^^"ld  b®  kept  in  mind  in  studying  the  table  which  foUows. 
1  able  163  presents  the  imports  and  production  in  1909  of  certain 
manufactures  of  wool  and  also  the  percentage  which  each  is  of  the 
total  of  the  two. 

Table  IGS.— Production  and  imports  of  specified  wool  prodwts  in  the  United  States  in 
1909  and  the  percentage  which  each  is  of  the  total  of  the  two. 


Item. 


Woolen  and  worated  cloth,  production  and  imparts 

Production 

Imports 


Blanlcets  and  flannels,  production  and  imports 
Production 


Value. 


Imports. 


Dress  i!oods,  production  and  imports 

Production 

Imports 


Carpets,  production  and  imports 

Production 

Imports 


Bugs,  production  and  imports 

Production 

Imports 


$185,994,603 

181,217,156 

4,777,447 

10,602,112 

10,566,965 

126,147 

105,258,569 

98,239,276 

7,019,284 

48,670,997 

48,475,889 

196,106 

22,043,897 

18,490.449 

3,563,448 


Per  cent  of 
total. 


100.00 

97.43 

2.67 

100.00 

98.83 

1.17 

100.00 

93.33 

6.67 

100.00 

99.60 

.40 

100.00 
83.88 
16.12 


TT  ^®,  production  and  imports  of  woolen  and  worsted  cloth  for  the 
United  States  m  1909  was  valued  at  $185,994,603;  97.43  per  cent  of 
this  was  domestic  production  and  2.57  per  cent  was  imports.  The 
imports  were  substantially  all  under  the  highest  value  classification 
of  paragraph  378. 

The  production  and  imports  of  blankets  and  flannels  for  the  United 
States  m  1909  was  valued  at  $10,692,112:  98.83  per  cent  of  this  was 
domestic  production  and  1.17  per  cent  of  it  was  imports 
.  The  production  and  imports  of  dress  goods  for  the  United  States 
m  1909  was  valued  at  $105,258,559;  93.33  per  cent  of  this  was 
domestic  production  and  6.67  per  cent  waa  imports.  The  imports 
mcluded  both  the  low  and  high  grade  dress  goods. 
.^^®  production  and  imports  of  carpets  for  the  United  States  in 
1909  was  $48,670,997;  99.60  per  cent  of  this  was  domestic  production 
and  0.40  per  cent  was  imports. 


The  production  and  imports  of  rugs  for  the  United  States  in  1909 
was  $22,043,897;  83.88  per  cent  of  this  was  domestic  production  and 
16.12  per  cent  was  imports.  The  imports  consisted  chiefly  of  expen- 
sive oriental  rugs  valued  abroad  at  over  $4  per  square  jrard.  The 
average  value  per  square  yard  of  rugs  produced  in  the  United  States 
in  1909  was  77  cents.     (See  Table  155.) 

Exports  ofaU  domestic  mxinufactures  of  wool, — The  total  export  of  all 
domestic  manufactures  of  wool  is  shown  in  Table  164. 

Table  1^.— Exports  of  all  domestic  manufactures  of  wool,  hy  countries,  from  the  United 

States. 


Country  of  destination. 

1896 

1900 

1905 

1910 

1911 

Belcrium 

126,697 

48,711 

267,644 

385,091 

10,508 

6,901 

$2,679 

10,628 

152,235 

817,092 

1,901 

2,078 

S3, 649 

23,015 

126,430 

1,241,414 

14,988 

3,645 

9,218 

280,786 

23,924 

38,602 

47,428 

19,156 

31,830 

28,397 

27.281 

598,427 

240,723 

12,226 

133.811 

103,065 

S5,409 
64,162 

305,716 

1,204,833 

13,276 

6,123 

63,324 

395,736 
60,231 
61,594 
24,738 
3,514 
16,060 
15,989 
12,867 

665,285 

265,279 
40,357 

138,836 
95,357 

$9,966 

Germanv - 

39,459 

United  Kingdom 

244,690 

Canada,  meluding  Newfoundland  and  Labrador.. 
Guatemala. 

1,195,715 
14,770 

Nicaracrua 

4,238 

Panama .      .  .          .  .  . 

16,031 

Mexico 

87,036 

1,107 

2,067 

669 

23,664 

249 

8,503 

7,331 

71,484 

12,251 

6,767 

292 

2,282 

1,259 

14,905 

24,577 

326,683 

Cuba 

32,905 

Argentina. 

107,088 

ChSe 

7,978 

Colombia 

1,179 

China 

8.521 

Janan 

37,209 

Australasia. - 

11,173 

Alaska      . 

0) 

Hawaii      

61,614 

111,689 
1,395 

1,835 
65,013 

(9 

PhillDDine  Islands. 

85,426 

Porto  Kico 

195 
41,722 

0) 

Othw  countries 

150,442 

1  Figures  not  available. 

The  most  conspicuous  thing  to  be  noted  in  Table  164  is  the  small- 
ness  of  the  exports.  They  consist  chiefly  of  woolen  wearing  apparel. 
Canada  is  our  most  important  market.  Mexico,  our  colonies,  and 
Argentina  are  next  in  importance. 

As  far  as  the  rest  of  the  world  is  concerned,  the  wool  manufactures 
of  the  United  States  are  isolated.  The  high  tariff  rates  secure  for 
them  the  domestic  market,  and  such  goods  as  are  imported  over  the 
tariff  barrier  can  not  be  said  to  compete  seriously  with  the  domestic 
products.  On  the  contrary,  the  duty  on  raw  wool  increases  the  cost 
of  production  to  the  domestic  manufacturer  so  that  he  can  not  com- 

fete  in  neutral  markets  with  his  foreign  competitor  who  has  free  wool, 
t  may  be  generally  said,  then,  that  Schedule  K  confines  the  American 
consumer  to  wool  goods  of  American  manufacture,  and  it  also  con- 
fines the  domestic  producer  to  the  home  market. 


m 


PART  I:  GLOSSARY  ON  SCHEDULE  K 


' 


SECTION  3 


"Wfi 


32080°— II.  Doc.  342,  G2-2,  vol  1 13 


193 


m 


1 


m 


Section  3.— SHEEP  INDUSTRY  IN  LEADING  COUNTRIES. 

SHEEP   INDUSTRY   IN   THE   UNITED   STATES. 

Review  of  sheep  growing  in  the  United  Stat^. — In  the  thirties  of  the 
last  century  sheep  raising  reached  its  supremacy  in  the  East  of  the 
United  States.  The  census  of  1840  shows  Vermont  to  have  had 
1,682,000  sheep;  New  York,  5,119,000;  Pennsylvania,  1,768,000; 
Virginia,  1,294,000;  Kentucky,  1,008,000;  and  Oliio,  2,028,000.  The 
sheep  in  these  six  States  represented  about  66.7  per  cent  of  all  the 
sheep  in  the  country.  No  sheep  were  reported  from  the  far  western 
territory.  During  the  decade  ending  with  1840  the  sheep  industry 
prospered  both  because  of  the  flourishing  condition  of  domestic 
manufacture  and  the  absence  of  any  serious  foreign  competition. 
By  1860,  as  shown  by  the  census  of  that  year,  the  number  of  sheep  in 
Vermont,  New  York,  and  other  Eastern  States  had  begim  to  declme, 
while,  on  the  contrary,  the  number  in  the  Middle  Western  States 
showed  an  increase.     For  that  year  Ohio  reported  3,547,000  and  Mchi- 

fan  1,273,000.  The  whole  number  of  sheep  in  the  country  increased 
etween  1840  and  1860  only  about  3,000,000.  After  the  Civil  War 
the  wools  from  Australasia  and  the  Kiver  Plate  began  to  come  in 
competition  with  domestic  wools,  and  along  with  this  competition 
came  the  tariif  rates  of  1867  to  protect  the  domestic  grower.  The 
most  dominant  influence  in  the  wool-growing  industry  of  the  United 
States  after  the  war  was  the  rise  of  sheep  raising  in  the  West.  The 
frontier  country  proved  particularly  adapted  to  the  pasturing  of 
flocks,  and  in  competition  with  the  western  wool  the  number  of  sheep 
in  the  East  continued  to  decHne.  By  1890  the  whole  number  of 
sheep  in  the  New  England  and  Middle  Atlantic  States,  according  to 
tlie  census  of  that  year,  was  ^only  4,278,000.  The  States  in  that 
year  with  over  1,500,000  each  were  Texas,  Ohio,  Michigan,  Montana, 
lltah.  New  Mexico,  California,  and  Oregon.  The  far  western  States 
have  continued  their  advance.  In  1900  they  contained  55.78  per 
cent  of  all  the  sheep  in  the  country  and  in  1910  they  contained  58.41 
per  cent  of  all  the  sheep  in  the  country. 

Number  of  sheep  in  the  United  States,  1860-1910. — The  number  of 
sheep  in  the  United  States  as  reported  by  each  census  since  1860  is 
presented  in  Table  165. 

.195 


t' 


Table  165.- 


EEPOET  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE   K. 

■Number  of  sheep  {excluding  Iambs)  on/arms  and  ranges  in  the  United  States, 
as  reported  or  estimated  by  the  census. 


[Ex 

pressed  in  thousands 

1 

States  and  Territories. 

1910 1 

1900  s 

1890  » 

1880  > 

1870  < 

1860  ' 

The  United  States 

39,187 

39.853 

40,876 

42,192 

28,478 

23,975 

North  Atlantic  Division.. 

1,566 

150 

31 

84 

23 

4 

14 

606 

17 

637 

2,533 
252 

65 
182 

34 
7 

23 
085 

26 
059 

4,133 

371 

132 

334 

51 

11 

38 

1,529 

55 

1,612 

4,971 

566 

212 

440 

68 

17 

59 

1,715 

117 

1,777 

5,546 

435 

249 

5S0 

79 

24 

84 

2,182 

120 

1,794 

6,335 

Maine       

514 

■•  New  Hampshire 

317 

Vermont 

Massachusetts 

770 
123 

Rhode  Island 

38 

Conne'lictit 

lao 

New  York 

2,621 

New  Jersey 

Pennsylvania      

117 

1,685 

Rniith  Atliintic  Division 

1,549 

5 

126 

1,706 

7 

111 

2,445 

12 

133 

2,579 

22 

171 

2,110 

23 

130 

1 

370 

552 

463 

125 

419 

27 

2.855 

Delaware 

19 

Maryland 

District  ol  Columbia           

157 

Vireinia 

438 

140 
28 

153 
95 

392 
573 
209 
62 
259 
103 

495 
785 
402 

80 
440 

98 

497 
675 
462 
119 
527 
106 

1,1.56 

^Vftst  Virt'inia                       

North  Carolina 

624 

South  Carolina         

234 

Georcia 

633 

Florida 

32 

North  Central  Division 

10.050 

2,888 

812 

658 

1,545 

629 

452 

769 

1,114 

238 

601 

240 

204 

10,0)6 

2,648 

1,011 

629 

1,628 

9S6 

300 

6.58 

664 

451 

507 

3.36 

180 

12,3,32 

4.061 

i,asi 

923 
2,400 
985 
399 
547 
951 
136 
2.39 
209 
401 

13,663 

4,903 

1,101 

1.0.37 

2,189 

1,337 

268 

455 

1,411 

85 

13.638 

4,929 

1,613 

1,568 

1,986 

1,069 

132 

855 

1.3.52 

2 

8,. 521 

Ohio      

3,679 

Indiana 

1,023 

Illinois    

803 

Michigan 

W  isconsin 

Minnesota 

1,.320 

345 

16 

Iowa     • 

281 

Missotiri 

1,033 

North  Dakota » 

Bouth  Dakota  " 

Nebraska 

247 
630 

23 
109 

2 

Kansas 

19 

South  Central  Division 

3,133 

777 
470 
109 
155 
139 
1,.^39 
47 

" 97' 

3,329 
716 
308 
229 
2.36 
169 

1,440 

49 

13 

169 

7,027 
937 
.541 
3S6 
4.52 
1S6 

4,264 
17 

6,397 

1,(MX) 

673 

347 

2S8 

136 

3,651 

3,232 

937 
827 
242 
233 
119 
714 

4,0.32 

Kentucky 

1.006 

Tennessee - 

Alabama                    

803 
383 

Mississinni  

3.54 

Louisiana 

Texas 

Oklahoma 

Indian  Territory  ^ 

Arkauisas 

203 
1,074 

,55 
247 

itii 

244 

209 

Western  Division 

Mfintfinfi                                   

22,  ,889 
4. 953 
■l.M'7 
1.304 
2,833 

796 
1,670 

787 
2,070 

293 
1,9,56 
1 , 4(X) 

1^.229 
4.215 
3.327 
1,3.53 
3,334 

069 
2,553 

668 
1,966 

658 
1.901 
1,725 

14,9.39 

2,353 

713 

897 

2,475 

515 

1,937 

273 

358 

265 

1,7<S0 

3,373 

14,5S2 

279 

450 

1.092 

3.939 

467 

523 

231 

117 

389 

1.368 

5,727 

3.9,52 

2 

6 

121 

610 

1 

60 

11 

1 

44 

318 

2,768 

2,2;J2 

"W^vnniinf                                      

Colorado  1 

New  Mexico     

972 

A  fr|i|>jn|n<ri 

Utah 

42 

"N^pvarhi 

Ti^ciHrt 

Washington 

10 

Omprrnn 

97 

CalifornitX       

1,111 

1  Preliminary  figures,  sul)]e(  t  to  correction.    Exclusive  of  spring  lambs. 

2  Exclusive  of  spring  lambs.  .    ,    .    ,  ,      , 

f  Reported  by  enumerators  and  probably  includes  some  lambs.  o,n  i„  1  civ.  ynn^^r^  i« 

*  Indoles  no  estimates  unenumerated  sheep  on  ranges  as  do  other  years:  1,505,810  in  1860;  7,000,000  in 
18S0;  4,940,948  in  1890. 

6  Dakota  Territory  prior  to  1890. 

•  Included  in  Dakota  Territory  prior  to  1890.  ,      ^      ,^  t    ,ooa 
1  No  report  of  sheep  or  wool  prior  to  1900  except  estimates  of  sheep  on  ranges  in  1880. 

In  studying  Table  165  particular  attention  should  be  given  to  the 
decline  in  the  number  of  sheep  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  United  States 
and  the  decided  increase  in  the  far  western  States.    A  dechne  appears 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


197 


I  f 


I 


even  in  such  important  eastern  States  as  Ohio  and  Michigan,  wlule 
Montana,  Wyoming,  New  Mexico,  Utah,  Idaho,  and  Oregon  all  show 
a  decided  increase.    California  has  fewer  sheep  to-day  than  in  1880 

or  1890.  ^   ^ 

Imports  of  sheep  into  the  United  States. — The  imports  of  sheep  mto 
the  United  States  are  given  in  Table  166  by  averages  for  five-year 
periods  beginning  with  1890.  These  imports,  it  should  be  noted,  are 
given  in  two  classes,  (a)  those  imported  free  of  duty  for  breeding 

Purposes,  and  (b)  those  imported  under  a  duty  for  other  purposes, 
heep  for  breeding  purposes  come  chiefly  from  Canada  and  the 
United  Kingdom.  Canada  supplies  a  small  number  of  sheep  and 
lambs  for  slaughtering  purposes,  and  some  of  those  paying  duty  are 
imported  for  the  purpose  of  improving  American  flocks  or  producing 
crossbreds  with  the  merino  flocks  of  this  country, but  owing  to  the  fact 
that  they  are  not  registered  sheep  they  do  not  come  in  free. 

Table  IQQ.— Imports  of  sheep  into  the  United  States  from  specified  countries. 


Five 

years 
end- 
ing— 

Grand 

average 

of  sheep 

imxwrted. 

Average  number  of  sheep  imiwrted,  free 
of  duty,  for  breeding  purposes  from— 

Average   number   of  sheep   imported, 
dutiable,  for  other  purposes  from— 

Total 
imports. 

Canada. 

United 
Kingdom. 

other 
countries. 

Total 
imports. 

Canada. 

Mexico. 

other 
countries. 

1875.... 

1880 

1885..-. 
1890.... 
1895.... 
1900 

i401,.5C)0 
356,234 
354.211 
430,866 
344,018 
369,668 
265, 020 
183,825 

""26,'287' 
4,666 
2,840 
1,856 
4,513 

""3,"  566' 
2,385 
2,530 
1,526 
4,054 

578' 

1,611 
310 
299 
431 

"i6,"i43' 
670 

"4i6,"579' 
339,352 
366,828 
263,164 
179,312 

"464,' 823' 
336,878 
343.749 
260,178 
163,265 

"  '5,'765' 
2,335 

2:^,013 
2,943 

15,970 

51 

139 
66 

1905 

1910.... 

31 
28 

43 
81 

1  Average  for  4  years. 

Exports  of  sheep  from  the  United  States. — The  exports  of  sheep  from 
the  IJnited  States  are  given  in  Table  167  by  averages  for  five-year 
periods.  The  table  shows  that  the  exports  were  small.  Such  as  were 
exported  were  sent  chiefly  to  the  United  Kingdom  and  Canada. 
Among  these  exports  are  included  the  fine  merino  rams  which  were 
exported  at  various  times  in  our  history  for  the  improvement  of  the 
flocks  of  Australia  and  the  Cape. 

Table  167. — Exports  of  sheep  from  the  United  States  to  specified  countries. 


Five 

years 

ending— 

Grand 

average 

of  sheep 

exported. 

Average  number  of  sheep  exported  to — 

United 
Kingdom. 

Canada. 

Mexico. 

British 

South 

Africa. 

British 

West 

Indies. 

Austral- 
asia. 

British 
Guiana. 

other 
countries. 

1875 

79,212 
179,628 
233,046 
127,897 
136,657 
240,887 
280,65t> 

98,261 



20 

41,446 

46,879 

6,522 

86,051 

178, 194 

188,631 

35,665 

4,784 
9,464 
13.330 
26,776 
39,740 
46,933 
79,874 
63,180 

68,958 

122.957 

167,527 

89,672 

3,927 

3,083 

2,882 

6,518 

2,788 
2,335 
2,681 
2,989 
1,658 
2,370 
1,453 
459 

4 

873 
1,702 
1,862 
1,456 
1,448 
1,262 
779 
390 

1,785 

1880 

1,724 

1885 

136 
42 
11 
87 
40 
3 

631 

1890 

440 

1895 

3,822 

1900 

8,958 

1905 

1910 

932 
192 

6,0(>5 
"1,854 

198 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD   ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


iiiHU 

i 

i 


Hi' 


mil 

i 


Numher  of  sheep  in  the  United  States  in  1910.— The  number  of 
sliwp  ill  tli6  United  States  according  to  the  census  of  1910  is  pre- 
sented in  Table  168.  These  figures  are  compiled  from  the  prelimmarv 
statements  of  the  census  and  are  subject  to  slight  correction,  which 
will  not  in  any  case  be  over  1  per  cent.  These  figures  do  not  include 
234,856  ewes,  81,128  rams  and  wethers,  and  58,371  lambs  not  on 
farms  and  ranches. 

Table  168  —  Xumber  of  sheep  and  lambs  in  1910.    {lUpoHed  by  the  United  States  Census 

Bureau.) 

[Note,— The  figures  are  preliminary  and  subject  to  correction.] 


REPORT  OF   TARIFF   BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


199 


f» 


State. 


The  United  States. . . 

North  Atlantic  Division. .. 

Maine 

New  Hampshire 

Vermont 

Massachusetts 

Rhode  Island 

Connecticut 

New  York 

New  Jersey 

Pennsylvania 

South  Atlantic  Division... 

Delaware 

Maryland 

Virginia 

West  Virginia 

North  Carolina 

South  Carolina 

Georgia 

Florida 

North  Central  Division 

Ohio 

Indiana 

Illinois 

Michigan 

Wisc'onsin 

Minnesota 

Iowa 

Miasouri 

Nortli  Dakota 

South  Dakota 

Nebraska 

Kansas 

South  Central  Division 

Kentucky 

Tennessee 

Alabama 

Mississippi 

Louisiana — 

Texas 

Oklahoma 

Arkansas 

Western  Division 

Montana 

Wyoming 

Colorado 

New  Mexico 

Arizona 

Utah 

Nevada 

Idaho 

Washington 

Oregon 

California 


Number 
of  farms 

and 
ranches. 


609,323 


Ewes 

bom 

before 

Jan.  1, 

1910. 


31.582,097 


7,604,672   12,622,299   .51,809,068 


71,469 

ll.WX) 

2,230 

5,033 

1,027 

243 

740 

24,829 

875 

25.426 

76, 188 

266 

6,228 

26,014 

14,604 

1.721 

5. 136 

633 

326,231 

71,523 

38,191 

26,240 

54,865 

30,040 

24,549 

21.789 

44,010 

3,«T73 

5, 15.5 

3,(M3 

3, 153 

107.441 

45,063 

29,953 

6,614 

5,687 

3,629 

6,683 

831 

8,381 

27,994 

2,267 

1,641 

1,693 

3,113 

1,025 

2,416 

316 

2,995 

2,116 

6,318 

3,801 


1,346,560 

14;i,738 

29,075 

78,996 

20,887 

3,952 

12,771 

568,409 

15,539 

473. 193 

1,341,974 

3,924 

119,806 

412,566 

496,623 

120,(35 

22,2S)4 

105,008 

61, 118 

8,581,827 

2,187,524 

742,576 

582,879 

i.4,'i:?.2a'i 

588,628 

417,239 

676, 158 

1,012,513 

183,752 

412,276 

177,876 

167, 113 

2,40:1,579 

722,566 

429,365 

80,276 

108,481 

100, 45<') 

902,078 

40,073 

80,284 

17,848,157 

3,247,183 

3,957,916 

1,109,5;J2 

2,3(M.292 

654,6:J9 

1,339,775 

(i51,330 

1,780,837 

226,196 

1,445,981 

1,130,476 


Bams 

and 
wethers 

bom 
before 
Jan. 1, 

1910. 


Lambs 

bom  after 

Jan. 1, 

1910. 


Total 
number  of 
sheep  and 

lambs. 


Average 

number 

of  sheep 

and  lambs 

per 

farm  or 

ranch. 


219,463 

6,196 

2,126 

5,364 

1,785 

254 

1,262 

37.246 

1.054 

im.  176 

207,  (H6 

491 

6,445 

25,422 

67,755 

19,249 

6,537 

48,203 

33,944 

1,467,915 

700,5<)3 

60,851 

74,994 

111,978 

39.911 

34,389 

93,184 

101,673 

54.023 

62,237 

36,740 

6(%,963 

54,361 

40,408 

28,834 

46,885 

3.8,807 

4.36,380 

7,057 

16.231 

5,041,285 

1,706,347 

868,802 

194,060 

528.82:i 

141. 185 

330,271 

136,027 

289,347 

66,887 

510,144 

269,392 


707,435 

56,500 

12,571 

34,191 

9,997 

2,583 

8,365 

323,892 

245, 483 

958.  .397 

3,391 

110.886 

365, 5«>4 

341,715 

74,292 

9,602 

34,378 

18,569 

4,545,315 

1,018,9<>8 

624,540 

401, 199 

761,2'J5 

301,244 

185, 405 

375,241 

603,822 

51,579 

110,080 

53,383 

68,619 

1,  .500, 109 

.584,073 

324, 190 

33,815 

38,914 

38,954 

419, 626 

12,862 

47, 675 

4,911,043 

419, 109 

568,241 

120,595 

430,897 

265, 5;}9 

1.5(),431 

316,532 

880.350 

178,438 

740.654 

834,257 


2,273,458 
206, 434 
43,772 
118,551 
32.669 
6,789 
22,398 
929,547 
30,446 
882,852 
2,507,417 
7,806 
237, 137 
803,  ,552 
906,093 
214,176 
37,433 
187, 589 
113.631 
14.595.057 
3,907.055 
1.336.967 
1.059,072 
2,306,476 
929,783 
637,033 
1.144,583 
1,808.038 
289.354 
610,728 
293, 496 
272, 472 
4.632.651 
1.361.000 
793. 9(a 
142,925 
194,280 
178.217 
1,7.58,084 
59.992 
144, 190 
27,800,485 
5,  ,372, 639 
5,  .394, 959 
1,424,187 
3.264,012 
1.061.3f)3 
1.826,477 
1,103,889 
2,950,5.34 
471.521 
2,696,779 
2,234,125 


Total 
value. 


85  1230,  .532, 817 


32 

19 

20 

24 

32 

28 

30 

37 

36 

35 

33 

29 

38 

37 

35 

15 

22 

37 

180 

45 

56 

35 

40 

42 

31 

26 

63 

41 

79 

118 

96 

86 

43 

30 

27 

22 

34 

49 

263 

72 

17 

993 

2,370 

3,288 

841 

1,049 

1,035 

766 

3,493 

986 

223 

427 

588 


10,775,726 
813,976 
192,346 
539,091 
156,303 
32,637 
112.214 
4,836,069 
160,138 
3,932,962 
9,064.575 
36,898 
1,142,965 
3,294,385 
3,386,694 
658,552 
80,981 
308.054 
256,046 
62.237.845 
14,932,790 
5.908.496 
4,838.900 
9, 646. 565 
3,669,572 
2, 690.  .598 
5.744.398 
7,874.678 
1,235,220 
2.999,711 
1.486,936 
1,209.921 
16,332,797 
5,564,638 
3.005,538 
299,895 
414,479 
342.894 
6,138,426 
239,041 
327,886 
132.121.874 
28.999.2.39 
29,648.616 
6.848.463 
11.905,380 
3,796.668 
8,632,029 
4,887,257 
15,631,797 
1,913,488 
12,197,477 
7,661,460 


There  are  some  features  of  Table  168  which  require  particular 
emphasis.    Tlie  table  shows  that  609,323  farms  or  ranches  reported 


*'■ 


1 


V 


i» 


sheep  on  April  15,  1910.  It  also  shows  the  average  size  of  the  flocks 
hi  the  various  States.  The  average  size  of  the  flock  in  the  whole 
United  States  was  85  sheep.  The  average  size  of  flock  m  the  North 
Atlantic  States  was  32  sheep;  in  the  South  Atlantic  States,  33  sheep; 
in  the  North  Central  States,  45  sheep;  in  the  South  Central  States 
43  sheep;  while  in  the  Western  division,  where  the  industry  takes 
on  the  cliaracter  of  ranching  operations,  the  average  size  of  the  flocks 
is  given  as  993  sheep.  The  flocks  m  Montana,  Wyommg,  New 
Mexico,  Arizona,  and  Nevada  are  reported  as  averagmg  over  1,000 
sheep  each.  It  should  be  noted  also  in  this  table  that  the  value  of 
the  flocks  in  the  United  States  was  m  1910  $230,532,817. 

Sheep  industry  in  the  United  Kingdom  compared  with  that  of  the 
United  States. — ^For  purposes  of  comparison  with  the  United  States, 
the  number  and  distribution  of  sheep  and  lambs  in  the  United  King- 
dom are  presented  in  detail  in  Table  169. 

Table  169. — Number  of  sheep  and  lambs  in  United  Kingdom  in  1910. 


United  Kingdom. 


England. 


Bedford 

Berkshire 

Buckingham 

Cambridge 

Chester 

Cornwall 

Cumberland 

Derby 

Devon 

Dorset 

Durham 

Essex 

Gloucester 

Hampsh  ire 

Hereford 

Hertford 

Huntingdon 

Kent 

Lancaster 

Leicester 

Lincoln 

London 

Middlesex 

Monmouth 

Norfolk 

Northampton 

Northumberland 

Nottingham 

Oxford 

Eutland 

Salop 

Somerset 

Stafford 

Suffolk 

Surrey 

Sussex 

Warwick 

Westmoreland 

Wiltshire 

Worcester 

York,  East  Riding 

York,  North  Riding 

York,  West  Riding 

Wales 

Scotland 

Ireland 

Isle  of  Man,  Jersey,  and  Guernsey. 


Ewes  kept 

for 
breeding. 


12,281,507 


6,140,062 


37,391 

77,218 

74,511 

69,218 

35,819 

161,863 

215,  796 

56. 192 

368,474 

169,558 

91.447 

97,990 

152,292 

168,313 

145,034 

42,453 

30, 170 

338, 024 

128,203 

113. 717 

395.278 

426 

5,699 

108,981 

184, 648 

137,860 

453,044 

68,813 

90,554 

30,420 

200,336 

195.361 

89,333 

150,930 

23,149 

165,453 

97,222 

163,228 

205,614 

68,694 

161,944 

294,808 

274,684 

1,537,741 

2,987,841 

1,580,519 

35,344 


Other  sheep. 


One  year 
and  above. 


6,267,650 


3,338,401 


18.933 

29,398 

44,249 

35,852 

21,318 

65,804 

150,285 

42,052 

164,017 

47,016 

63,031 

51,207 

63,328 

64,302 

68, 162 

25.208 

20.554 

309, 261 

54,437 

91,849 

229.802 

2,105 

8,278 

41,251 

116,374 

114,906 

167,530 

52,417 

42,921 

24.908 

95,104 

129,120 

44,960 

48,675 

18, 412 

111,954 

61.831 

79,386 

75,994 

35,732 

124,395 

150,350 

131, 733 

813,792 

1,335,124 

774, 174 

6,159 


Under  one 
year. 


12,615,430 


Total. 


31,164,587 


6,795,055  I     16,273.518 


40,998 

70,022 

86,020 

63,708 

42,324 

17^,903 

221,569 

66,941 

391,204 

130,055 

105.196 

104,848 

175,347 

139, 726 

160,694 

38,966 

36,693 

377.649 

141,844 

140, 107 

472,843 

410 

7,193 

102,607 

239, 197 

169, 897 

520,339 

89,238 

97,604 

35,275 

235.184 

197.895 

117.362 

179, 795 

23,475 

167, 473 

121,160 

157.361 

202,086 

84,784 

214, 525 

338,043 

308,435 

1,333.248 

2,821,681 

1,624.823 

40,623 


97.322 

176.638 

204,780 

168,778 

99.461 

406,570 

587,650 

165,185 

923,755 

346,629 

259,674 

254.045 

390.967 

372,341 

373.890 

106,627 

87, 417 

1,024,934 

324,484 

345,673 

1,097,923 

2.941 

21, 170 

252,839 

540,219 

422,663 

1,140,913 

210,468 

231,079 

90,603 

630,624 

622,376 

251,655 

379,400 

65,036 

444,880 

280,213 

399,975 

483,694 

189,210 

500,864 

783.201 

714, 752 

3,684,781 

7, 144. 646 

3,979.516 

82.126 


'  ■-r" 


200 


BEPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


201 


II 


Table  169  shows  that  the  United  Kingdom  with  an  area  of 
77,690,240  acres,  contained  in  1910,  31,164,587  sheep  and  lambs. 
The  United  States,  on  the  contrary,  with  an  area  of  1,903,461,760 
acres,  contained  in  1910,  52,183,423  sheep  and  lambs  (including  those 
not  on  farms  and  ranches).  It  thus  appears  that  the  United  King- 
dom has  one  sheep  or  lamb  for  every  2.5  acres  whUe  the  United  States 
has  one  sheep  or  lamb  for  every  36.5  acres.  If  we  consider  England 
and  Wales  alone,  there  is  one  sheep  and  lamb  for  every  1.8  acres. 
The  above  table  shows  that  almost  all  the  counties  of  England  con- 
tain sheep  and  lambs.  Those  having  over  1,000,000  each  are  Kent, 
Lincoln,  Northumberland,  and  Yorkshire,  including  the  three  ridings. 

Sheep  in  ranch  States  and  farm  States,  1890-1910. — In  the  Middle 
West  and  the  East  of  the  United  States  sheep  at  the  present  time  are 
handled  mainly  as  an  incident  to  a  system  of  mixed  liusbandry .  In 
the  far  West  and  in  certain  sections  of  Ohio  and  adjacent  territory 
woolgrowing  is  an  important  specialty.  As  a  general  rule  farm  con- 
ditions prevail  in  the  middle  western  and  eastern  States,  while  ranch 
conditions  prevail  in  the  far  West.  It  is  important  therefore  to  com- 
pare the  number  of  sheep  over  a  period  of  years  in  the  ranch  and  farm 
States  separately.  This  is  shown  in  Table  170.  The  figures  are  from 
the  Bulletin  of  Wool  Manufacturers.  These  same  facts  are  shown 
graphically  in  Chart  4,  which  foUows  the  table. 

It  may  be  said  parenthetically  that  while  the  number  of  sheep 
declined  rapidly  in  the  East  and  Middle  West  of  the  United  States 
from  1893  to  1897,  the  number  of  hogs  and  stock  cattle  dechned  in 
approximately  the  same  proportion.  Hogs  and  stock  cattle  were 
unaffected  by  the  tariff. 

Table  170. — Number  of  sheep  over  a  period  of  years  on  April  l,for  leading  States  where 

farm  and  where  ranch  conditions  prevail.^ 

[Expressed  in  thousands.] 


Year. 

Ranch  States.* 

Farm  States.' 

TotAl. 

1890 

24,217 
23, 615 
23,874 
23,445 
22,400 
22,090 
21.121 
21.047 
21,949 
23.011 
26,203 
26,760 
26,518 
25,268 
24,996 
25,495 
24,866 
24,585 
25, 4.30 
26,675 
25,850 

20, 119 
19,816 
21, 0(^4 
23,829 
21, 102 
17,859 
15,349 
13,737 
13,723 
13, 8W 
14,065 
15, 161 
15,668 
14,016 
13,346 
13, 126 
13,675 
14,280 
14,882 
15,618 
16,150 

44,336 

1891 

43, 431 

1892 

44,938 

1893 

47,274 

1894 

43,502 

1895 

39,949 

1896 

36,470 

1897 

34, 784 

1898 

35,672 

1899 

36,905 

1900 

40,268 

1901 

41,921 

1902 

42,186 

1903 

39, 284 

1904 

1905 

38,342 

38, 621 

1906 

38,541 

1907 

38.865 

1908 

40,312 

1909 

42,2a3 

1910 

42,000 

1  statistics  taken  from  Bulletin  of  Wool  Manufactures. 

« Includes  Arizona,  California,  Colorado,  Idaho,  Montana,  Nevada,  New  Mexico,  Oregon,  Texas,  Utali, 
Washington,  and  Wyoming. 
•  Includes  all  other  States. 


^ 


1 


<0       Q       V       1^       <*»       45       o>       g>       >j. 


jj 


o 

> 

H 
4^ 


/9fO 


Chaet  4.— Number  of  sheep  in  the  United  States,  1890-1910,  classified  as  to  ranch  and  farm  conditions. 

(The  lacts  of  Table  170  presented  graphically.) 


202 


EEPORT  OP  TAEIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


i 


Imports  of  wool y  1868-1911, — ^TIi©  imports  of  raw  wool  by  classes 
into  the  United  States  from  1868  to  1911  for  consumption  are  shown 
in  Table  171  in  millions  of  pounds  and  millions  of  dollars. 

Table  171. — Imports  of  raw  wool  hy  classes  into  the  United  States. 
[Expressed  in  millions  of  pounds  and  millions  of  dollars.] 


Year. 


Class  1. 


Quantity. 


1868 

1869 

1870 

1871 

1872 

1873 

1874 

1875 

1876 

1877 

1878 

1879 

1880 

1881 

1882 

1883 

1884 

1885 

1886 

1887 

1888 , 

1889 

1890 , 

1891 

1892 

1894 

1885 

1896 

1897 

1898 

1899 

1900 

1901 

1902 

1903 

1904... 

1905 

1906 

1907 

1908 

1909 

1910 

1911 


Founds. 

4.6 

2.5 

6.5 

6.0 

16.9 

6.0 

2.4 

13.1 

8.6 

9.3 

9.9 

6.2 

26.8 

20.6 

13.5 

11.6 

20.7 

Xtf  •  o 

23.3 

16.9 

23.0 

21.4 

26.5 

38.6 

35.4 

7.9 

106.5 

117.5 

200.5 

18.1 

9.6 

19.4 

35.8 

55.2 

46.7 

39.9 

76.8 

93.5 

9L5 

60.6 

99.9 

112.0 

58.2 


Value. 


Dollars. 

0.9 

.5 

1.2 

1.2 

4.2 

1.8 

.8 

8.6 

2.2 

2.2 

2.4 

1.1 

6.4 

4.8 

3.0 

2.6 

4.7 

3.0 

4.4 

4.3 

3.7 

4.8 

4.8 

6.0 

7.7 

6.6 

16 

16.6 

19.5 

34.3 

3.3 

1.6 

3.7 

6.8 

8.2 

7.2 

7.3 

16.3 

21.8 

22.6 

14.4 

20.6 

25.9 

13.9 


Class  2. 


Quantity. 


Pounds. 

1.9 

4.5 

2.8 

17.7 

41.1 

49.5 

27.1 

7.8 

3.2 

2.5 

3.0 

1.7 

13.3 

4.4 

2.3 

1.4 

4.5 

3.9 

4.9 

9.7 

5.6 

6.6 

7.0 

7.0 

5.4 

7.0 

1.3 

14.7 

13.0 

37.9 

3.9 

2.2 

7.3 

6.7 
13.7 
13.7 
21.9 
16.4 
12.1 
11  6 
17.9 

11.6 


Value. 


Dollars. 
0.4 
1.1 

.8 
3.2 
9.0 
12.7 
6.2 
2.2 
1.2 

.8 
1.0 

.4 

a-  O 

1.3 

.7 

.3 

1.1 

.9 

1.1 

2.3 

1.3 

1.5 

1.8 

1.7 

1.2 

1.5 

.3 

2.9 

3.1 

7.2 

.8 

.6 

2.1 

1.6 

1.2 

2.5 

2.8 

5.2 

4.4 

3.6 

3.2 

6.9 
3.2 


Class  3. 


Quantity. 


Founds. 

18.1 

27.7 

29.4 

26.5 

36.3 

28.7 

27.3 

30.8 

28.5 

28.3 

26.9 

33.2 

59.3 

42.4 

47.2 

40.1 

62.5 

50.8 

79.7 

81.6 

74.7 

96.6 

79.9 

85.9 

90.6 

133.2 

36.5 

144.5 

98.1 

111.8 

48.3 

65.6 

99.0 

81.7 

98.6 

119.2 

108.1 

112.6 

109.6 

92.4 

63.9 

91.4 

117.8 

96.1 


Value. 


Total. 


Quantity. 


Dollars. 

2.7 

3.7 

3.4 

3.3 

6.4 

6.0 

4.6 

4.4 

4.5 

4.0 

3.6 

4.0 

7.7 

6.0 

6.6 

5.6 

7.8 

5.6 

8.3 

9.7 

9.1 

11.1 

9.3 

9.4 

8.8 

10.3 

3.4 

13  1 

9.5 

11.7 

4.6 

6.2 

9.2 

7.7 

9.0 

11.6 

12.2 

13.9 

14.7 

14.3 

9.1 

10.2 

14.9 

12.5 


Value. 


Founds. 

24.6 

34.7 

38.7 

50.2 

94.3 

84.2 

66.8 

61.7 

40.3 

40.1 

39.8 

40.1 

99.4 

67.4 

63.0 

53.0 

87.7 

68.2 

107.9 

114.4 

97.2 

126. 2 

108.3 

119.4 

134.6 

175.6 

45.7 

265.7 

228.6 

350.2 

70.3 

77.4 

128.3 

124.8 

160.4 

179.6 

161.7 

211.3 

219.5 

196.0 

136.0 

209.2 

256.6 

165.9 


Dollars. 
4.0 
5.3 
5.4 
7.7 
19.6 
20.5 

n.6 

10.2 
7.9 

7.0 

7.0 

5.5 

17.9 

12.1 

10.3 

8.5 

13.6 

9.6 

13.8 

16.3 

14.1 

17.4 

15.9 

17.1 

17.7 

18.4 

6.2 

32.6 

32.1 

53.2 

8.7 

8.4 

15.0 

16.0 

18.4 

21.3 

22.3 

35.4 

40.9 

40.5 

26.7 

34.7 

47.7 

29.6 


# 


In  studying  Table  171  the  imports  must  be  considered  in  the  light 
of  the  conditions  of  the  country  and  tariff  legislation.  Under  free 
wool  in  1895,  1896,  and  1897  the  importations  were  large.  The 
imports  for  1897,  however,  were  abnormally  large.  It  was  expected 
during  that  year  that  in  the  pending  revision,  which  resulted  in  the 
act  of  1897,  a  duty  would  again  be  placed  upon  raw  wool.  Dealers 
therefore  naturally  endeavored  to  get  into  this  country  all  the  wool 
possible  before  the  new  tariff  went  into  effect.  Under  these  condi- 
tions 350.2  million  pounds  of  wool  were  imported.  This  excessive 
supply,  at  least  in  part  and  probably  largely,  explains  the  small 
importation  of  wool  in  1898  and  1899.  During  these  years  the  coun- 
try was  using  up  the  surplus  supply  of  1897.     (See  Chart  5.) 


REPORT  OF   TARIFF   BOARD   ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


203 


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CaiiKT  5.— The  inii^ortation  of  class  1,  2,  and  3  wools,  slioddy,  rugs,  wool  waste,  and  noils  into  the  United  States,  1890-191L 


204 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


Hill 


Imports  of  rags,  sJioddy.  waste,  and  noih. — These  same  remarks 
apply,  in  general,  to  wool^i  rags,  shoddy,  wool  waste,  and  noils.  (See 
Chart  5.)  The  importation  of  these  materials  into  the  United  States 
from  1890  to  1911  is  shown  in  Table  172. 

Table  172. — Imports  of  rags,  shoddy,  noils,  and  wool  waste  from  1890  to  1911. 


X  i9BUr« 


1890 
1891 
1892 
1893 
1894 
1805 
1896 
1887 
1898 
1899 
1900 
1901 
1902 
1903 
1904 
1906 
1906 
1907 
1908 
1909 
1910 
1911 


RagH  and  shoddy. 

Noils. 

Wool  waste. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

584,172 

$226,106 

1,559,192 

1276,029 

4,401,094 

$1,811,625 

1,245,076 

453,063 

12,043 

8,440 

2til,310 

98,504 

103,011 

30,952 

10,973 

6,502 

159,185 

68,778 

158,300 

46,128 

40,777 

13.193 

93,477 

33,564 

48,606 

15,570 

45,350 

16,966 

10,929 

4,335 

6,55*»,199 

408,048 

1,110,149 

2t)7,2ti3 

4,«)5,417 

826,509 

11,268,104 

tti0,029 

1,247,558 

243,529 

5,986,810 

1,44<>,887 

28,192,399 

1,739,470 

7,934,5C7 

1,497,717 

9,033,88ti 

2,107,471 

1,156,070 

75,062 

479,170 

109,242 

435.036 

145, '250 

86,177 

14, 191 

132,078 

39,877 

35,041 

10,193 

156,427 

20,247 

144,306 

50,413 

13,864 

4,267 

14,627 

3,833 

217,814 

73,950 

216,698 

72,264 

57,703 

8,366 

98,245 

32,045 

130,952 

38,998 

62,796 

10,  .328 

90,897 

34,876 

177,264 

62,243 

24,403 

4,084 

79,576 

29,190 

70,357 

21,751 

68,241 

12, 748 

90,314 

31,625 

111,579 

41,003 

242,499 

69,027 

393,491 

161,094 

450,936 

164, 157 

151,346 

46,468 

443,611 

175,335 

153,153 

66,377 

33,992 

11,680 

167,107 

70,026 

70,081 

27,898 

32,773 

9,232 

127,9fi5 

49.754 

89,855 

35,813 

362,5.55 

95,193 

122,227 

76,253 

94,806 

32,901 

252,879 

71, 717 

170,530 

106,664 

37,850 

13,010 

The  importation  in  1897  of  the  materials  shown  in  Table  172  was 
stimulated  by  the  desire  to  get  these  materials  into  the  country 
before  any  change  was  made  in  the  rates  then  existing.  They  were, 
therefore,  not  normal.  The  imports  in  1896  under  the  act  of  1894 
are  probably  representative  of  importation  under  free-wool  condi- 
tions. It  should  also  be  noted  that  it  would  be  misleading  to  cite 
the  totals  of  the  imports  in  tliis  table  as  imports  of  '* Shoddy,  etc.," 
since  they  include  noils  and  various  high-grade  wool  wastes  which 
have  never  been  worked  up  into  manufactured  form. 

Production  of  wool  in  the  United  States. — Table  173  presents  the 
production  of  wool  for  each  year  since  1890  as  reported  by  the  Bulle- 
tin of  Wool  Manufacturers.  In  addition  to  the  number  of  sheep, 
number  of  pounds  of  washed  and  unwashed  wool,  the  table  shows 
the  Bulletin's  figures  for  the  average  weight  of  fleece,  percentage  of 
shrinkage,  average  scoured  price,  and  total  value  of  the  clip. 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  ROARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


205 


Table  173. — Wool  produced  in  the  United  States,  1890  to  1911  {not  including  pulled 

wool). 

[From  Bulletin  of  Wool  Manufacturers.] 


Year. 


1890. 
1891. 
1892. 
1893. 

imi. 

1895. 
1896. 
1897. 
1898. 
1899. 
1900. 
1901. 
1902. 
1903. 
1904. 
1905. 
1906, 
1907. 
1908. 
1909. 
1910. 


Number 

Average 

of  sheep 

weight  of 

AprU  1. 

fleece. 

Pounds. 

44,336,000 

6.06 

43,431,000 

6.04 

44,938,000 

6.50 

47,274,000 

6.38 

43,502,000 

6.395 

39,949,000 

6.375 

36,470,000 

6.38 

34,784,000 

6.30 

a5, 672, 000 

6.44 

36,905,000 

6.46 

40,268,000 

6.46 

41,921,000 

6.33 

42,186,000 

6.50 

39,284,000 

6.25 

38,342,000 

6.50 

38,621,000 

6.56 

38,541,000 

6.66 

38,865,000 

6.60 

40,312,000 

6.7 

42,293,000 

6.8 

42,000,000 

6.7 

Wool, 

washed 

and 

unwashed. 


Pounds. 
268,775,000 
262,401,000 
287,018,000 
301,637,000 
278,211,000 
254,267,000 
232,475,000 
219,153,000 
229,860,000 
238,437,000 
259,973,000 
265,502,000 
274,346,000 
245,450,000 
249,783,000 
253,488,000 
256,915,000 
256,295,000 
270,138,000 
287,111,000 
281,363,000 


Per  cent 
of 

shrink- 
age. 


59.0 

59.27 

59.71 

60.0 

60.7 

60.1 

61.0 

60.7 

61.1 

60.6 

60.0 

60.8 

61.6 

61.3 

61.08 

60.6 

60.5 

60.9 

60.0 


Scoured 
wooL 


Pounds. 

115,208,000 

112,327,000 

117,700,000 

122,799,000 

112,092,000 

101,139,000 

91,285,000 

87,366,000 

89,545.000 

93,706,000 

101,025,000 

104,615,000 

109,771,000 

96,226,000 

95,795,000 

97,967,000 

100,011,000 

100,959,000 

105,799,000 

113,542.000 

112,606,000 


Average 

value  per 

scoured 

pound. 


41.1 
45.1 
48.8 
54.1 
65.4 
63.8 
62.3 
46.6 
63.6 
51.0 


Total  value 
of  wool. 


$43,010,000 
49,498,000 
46,574,000 
51,789,000 
64,033,000 
63,777.000 
63,532,000 
49,742,000 
72,195,000 
57,430,000 


SHEEP  INDUSTRY  IN   AUSTRALIA. 

Wool  produced. — At  the  end  of  the  year  1909  there  were  in  Aus- 
tralia, including  Tasmania,  91,676,281  sheep.  The  total  wool  pro- 
duced by  these  sheep  amounted  to  718,037,132  pounds.  Of  this 
amount,  676,520,093  pounds  was  shorn  or  pulled  wool  exported, 
33,255,381  pounds  was  the  estimated  net  export  of  wool  on  the  skins, 
and  8,261,658  pounds  was  consumed  in  local  mills.  The  total  esti- 
mated value  of  this  wool  was  $135,410,365.50,  which  gives  an  average 
value  of  19  cents  per  pound. 

Size  of  flocJcs. — Eiglity-five  and  twenty-eight  one-hundredths  per 
cent  of  the  sheep  of  AustraUa  are  in  flocks  of  1,000  or  over;  50  percent 
of  them  are  in  flocks  of  10,000  and  over.  The  number  of  sheep  in 
AustraUa,  classified  by  States  and  size  of  flocks,  is  shown  in  Table  174. 


Table  174.- 


■Classijication  of  sheep  flocks  in  the  several  States  of  the  Commonwealth  oj 
Australia,  excluding  Tasmania,^  on  Dec.  SI,  1909. 


Size  of  flocks. 

New  South 
Wales. 

Victoria. 

Queens- 
land. 

South 

Australia. 

Western 
Australia. 

Common- 
wealth. 

Under  500 

2,122,448 

2,845,033 
4,903,584 
8,258,996 
6,062,339 
7,403,259 
9,483,248 
3,932,843 
1.190,228 

2,624,725 

2,276,982 
2,109,279 
1,926.349 
1,433; 405 
1,481,005 
1,086,238 

157,704 
261,594 
371.658 
1.180,762 
1,790,719 
2,747,430 
4,582,396 
5,313,733 
3,187,795 

1,233,151 
888,217 
806,631 
865,281 
808,284 
624,862 

1,023,903 
225, 102 

484,565 
350,714 
326,768 
485,061 
390,645 
1,150,801 
1,111,611 
431,572 

6, 622, 593 

500  and  under  1,000 

6, 623. 140 

1.000  and  under  2,000 

8,517,920 

2.000  and  under  5,000 

12, 716, 449 

5.000  and  under  10.000 

10,485.392 

10,000  and  under  20,000 

20,000  and  under  50,000 

50,000  and  under  100,000 

13,407.357 

17,287,396 

9,903.250 

100,000  and  upward 

4,378,023 

Total 

46,202,578 

12,937,983 

19,593,791 

6,475,431 

4,731,737 

89,941,520 

1  Total  number  of  sheep  in  Tasmania  was  1,734,761. 


206 


EEPORT  OF   TARIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


207 


i^Rnl 


The  largest  flocks  are  in  Queensland  and  in  New  South  Wales.  In 
these  States  there  are  some  flocks  containing  100,000  sheep  and  over. 
The  classification  which  contains  the  largest  number  of  sheep  is  from 
20,000  to  50,000.     In  flocks  of  this  size  there  were  17,287,396  sheep. 

Size  of  holdings  for  pasturing  sheejp.—Ahoni  59  per  cent  of  the  sheep 
in  Austraha  in  1909  were  depastured  on  holdings  of  land  of  10,000 
acres  and  over.  On  holdings  of  100,000  acres  each  there  were  23, 1 1 7,- 
187  sheep.  The  largest  holdings  are  in  Queensland  and  New  South 
Wales.  Tkc  number  of  sheep  in  Austraha  in  1909,  classified  accord- 
ing to  the  area  of  holdings,  is  presented  in  Table  175. 

Table  175.— Classijicatwn  of  sheep  according  to  area  of  holdings  on  which  depastured 
in  the  several  States  of  the  Commonwealth  of  Australia,  exclvdinq  Tasmania^  on  Dec 
SI,  1909.  ^  f  if  ,  . 


Area  of  holdings. 


1  and  under  50  acres 

5<)  and  under  1(X)  acres 

100  and  under  500  acres 

500  and  under  1,000  acres .... 
1,000  and  under  5,000  acres. . , 
5,000  and  under  IC.OOO  acres., 
10,000  and  under  20,000  acres. 
20,000  and  under  50,000  acres. 
50,000  and  under  100,000  acres 

100,000  and  upward 

Ill-defined  areas 

Total 


New  South 
AVales. 


27,103 

50,511 

1,138,079 

2,332,503 

11,051,542 

6,026.868 

6,298,223 

7,535,127 

4.886,760 

7,941,397 

314,465 


4ti,202,578 


Victoria. 


45,160 
83. 3.33 
1,592,944 
2,293,097 
4,9a3,689 
1,255,231 
1,492,544 
1,033,487 
89, 219 


149,279 


12,937,983 


Queens- 

South 

Western 

land. 

Australia. 

Australia. 

689 

5,930 

2,992 

1,486 

13,780 

2,543 

61,911 

327,854 

65,741 

138,025 

656,354 

175,2.39 

667,948 

1,771,009 

739. 100 

628,771 

672,983 

240,899 

1,401,483 

659,0-32 

244,104 

2,585,134 

927,376 

200,950 

2,930,789 

294,261 

225,525 

11,131,930 

1,215,210 

2,828,644 

45,609 

30,976 

19,593,791 

6,475,431 

4, 731, 737 

Common- 
wealth. 


81,890 

151.653 

3,186,529 

6,595,218 

19,1.33.348 

8.324,7.52 

9,09.5.986 

12,288.074 

8,426,554 

23,117.187 

540,-329 

89,941,520 


>  Figures  for  Tasmania,  1,734,761. 

Distribution  and  breeds  of  sheep  in  Australia. — ^In  1909  the  sheep  of 
Australia  were  distributed  as  follows:  50.40  per  cent  in  New  South 
Wales,  14.11  per  cent  in  Victoria,  21.37  per  cent  in  Queensland,  7.07 
per  cent  in  South  Australia,  5.16  per  cent  in  western  Australia,  and 
1.89  per  cent  in  Tasmania. 

Something  over  80  per  cent  of  the  flocks  of  Austraha  are  composed 
of  merino  sheep.  In  western  Australia  and  parts  of  Queensland  where 
semidesert  conditions  preyail,  the  merino  is  the  universal  type;  but 
in  the  more  settled  and  more  fertile  states  the  flockmasters  have 
yielded  to  the  demand  for  mutton  and  crossed  some  of  their  merinos 
with  mutton  sheep.'  The  number  of  sheep  in  New  South  Wales  in 
flocks  of  100  and  over,  classified  as  merino  and  crossbreds,  is  shown  in 
Table  176.  From  tins  table  it  will  be  seen  that  even  in  New  South 
Wales  the  crossbreds  have  not  reached  great  importance. 

Table  17Q.— Number  of  sheep  in  New  South  Wales,  Australia,  in  flocks  of  100  and  over, 

classified  by  breeds. 


Class  of  slieep. 

Hams. 

Ewes.        Wethers. 

Lambs. 

Total. 

Merino 

550.151 
101.010 

19,626,422 

2,056.;/'/ 

10,440.995 
1,249,592 

8,029.096 
1,490,. 528 

39,24«.,C«4 
4,897,907 

Crossbreds 

Total 

(151,101 

21,fKS3,199     11,690,587 

10,119,624 

44,144,-571 

Further  proof  of  the  predominance  of  merino  sheep  is  shown  in  the 
exports  of  wool  from  Australia  classified  as  meruio  wool  on  the  one 


M 


hand,  and  crossbreds  and  longwools  on  the  other.  The  exports 
expressed  in  bales  (about  350  pounds)  are  presented  in  Table  177, 
on  the  authority  of  Dalgety  &  Co.  of  Australia.  The  per  cent  of 
merino  and  crossbred,  etc.,  wool  is  given  opposite  the  number  of  bales. 

Table  177, — Australian  wool  exported  in  bales. 
[Compiled  by  Dalgety  &  Co.] 


Year. 


1900-1. 
1901-2. 
1902-3. 
1903-4. 
1904-5. 
1905-6. 
1906-7. 
1907-8. 
1908-9. 
1909-10 


Total  ex- 
ports. 


Bales. 
1.222.990 
1.267.936 
1,014.768 
994.796 
1,218,969 
1.4,54,820 
1.663.130 
1,620.890 
1,796,  .347 
1,921,507 


Merino. 


Bales. 
1,027,312 
1,103,104 
872,700 
855,525 
1,072,693 
1,265,693 
1,446.923 
1,393.965 
1,562,822 
1,652,666 


Per  cent. 

84 
87 
86 
86 
88 
87 
87 
86 
87 
86 


Crossbred  and  strong 
wools. 


BaJes. 
195,678 
164,832 
142,068 
139.271 
146,276 
189,127 
216.207 
226,925 
233,525 
269,039 


Per  cent. 


16 
13 

14 
12 

13 
14 

14 


SHEEP  IN   NEW   ZEALAND. 

Wool  produced,, — ^In  April,  1910,  there  were  24,269,620  sheep  in  New 
Zealand.  In  April,  1911,  there  were  23,996,126  sheep  in  New  Zealand, 
or  273,494  less  than  a  year  before.  In  1909  New  Zealand  produced 
192,822,002  pounds  of  wool,  of  which  5,202,821  pounds  were  used  in 
local  mills  and  187,619,181  pounds  were  exported.  Eighty-two  and 
forty  one-hundredths  per  cent  of  the  wool  exported  was  m  the  grease, 
17.09  per  cent  was  scoured  and  pulled  wool,  and  0.51  per  cent  was 
washed  wool. 

Size  of  flocks. — ^The  average  size  of  the  flocks  in  New  Zealand  in  1886 
was  1,659  sheep;  in  1896,  1,081  sheep;  and  in  1909,  1,074  sheep. 
Table  178  gives  the  number  of  flocks  of  sheep  in  New  Zealand  classi- 
fied according  to  their  size.  The  table  indicates  that  the  tendency  is 
toward  smaller  flocks. 

Table  V7%.— Number  and  me  of  flocks  of  sheep  in  New  Zealand,  1901,  1906,  and  1909. 


Size  of  flock. 


Under  500 

600  and  under  1,000 

1,000  and  under  2,500. . 
2,500  and  under  5,000 . . 
6,000  and  under  10,000. 
10,000  and  under  20,000 
20,000  and  upward 

Total 


1901 

1906 

11,700 

11.793 

3,059 

3,431 

2,189 

2,558 

688 

782 

397 

394 

189 

213 

138 

94 

18,360 

19,265 

1909 


12,389 

4,219 

3.391 

1,044 

510 

227 

78 


21,858 


Distribution  and  breeds.— In  1886  there  were  5,285,907  sheep  in  the 
North  Island  of  New  Zealand.  In  191 1  this  number  had  increased  to 
12,814,353.  In  1886  there  were  9,888,356  sheep  in  the  South  Island. 
In  1910  this  number  had  increased  to  11,181,773.  At  first  the  in- 
crease of  the  flocks  m  the  North  Island  was  retarded  by  the  wars  with 
the  Maori  inhabitants  and  because  the  land  was  rugged  and  wooded. 
in  recent  years,  however,  the  flocks  in  the  North  Island  have  increased 
much  more  rapidly  than  in  the  South  Island. 


I 


208 


BEPOBT  OF  TAKIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


BEPOET  OF  TAEIFF  BOAED  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


209 


About  90  per  cent  of  the  sheep  in  New  Zealand  are  mutton  sheep. 
In  1911,  excluding  the  breeding  stock,  there  were  21,525,084  crossbred 
and  long-wooled  sheep  and  only  1,765,419  merinos.  It  is  the  frozen 
mutton  export  trade  which  has  made  the  crossbred  so  important  in 
the  flocks  of  New  Zealand.  There  are  22  freezing  works  in  opera- 
tion in  New  Zealand  and  in  1909  the  exports  of  frozen  sheep  and 
lambs  amounted  to  5,189,057  carcasses.  Even  with  this  lar^e  ex- 
port of  slaughtered  sheep,  the  flocks  of  New  Zealand  are  not  seriously 
mipaired.  Table  179  snows  the  breeds  of  sheep  in  New  Zealand, 
showing,  on  the  one  hand,  the  prominence  of  the  English  breeds 
among  the  breeding  stock,  and  the  negligible  number  of  merinos 
among  the  flock  sheep. 

Table  179, — Number  of  sheep  in  New  Zealand  on  Apr.  SO,  1911. 


Table  180. — Number  of  sheep  in  British  South  Africa,  by  subdivisions,  in  1910. 


Breed. 


Stud  sheep  and  flock  rams: 

Merinos 

Lincoln 

Ronmey 

Border  Leicester 

English  Leicester 

Shropshire 

Southdown 

Other  breeds 

Total 

Flock  sheep: 

Crossbred  and  other  long-wools 
Merinos 

Grand  total 


North 

South 

Island. 

Island. 

11,778 

42,142 

88,576 

11,727 

184,945 

71,070 

14,950 

81,625 

17,394 

82,061 

7,664 

18,245 

20,497 

8,422 

6,242 

38,295 

352,036 

353,587 

12,407,320 

9,117,764 

54,997 

1,710,422 

12,814,353 

11,181,773 

Total  for 
Dominion. 


53,920 

100, ao3 

256.015 
96.575 
99,455 
25,899 
28,919 
44,537 


705,623 

21.525,084 
1,7(»,419 


23,996,126 


SHEEP  INDUSTRY   IN   BRITISH   SOUTH  AFRICA. 

Wool  produced. — The  number  of  merino,  crossbreds,  and  native 
sheep  in  British  South  Africa  in  1910  was  about  31,000,000.  About 
two-thirds  of  these  sheep  are  merinos.  The  remaining  one-third  is 
composed  of  the  woolless  native  sheep  or  its  cross  with  the  merino. 
The  merino  wool  produced  by  the  Cape  is  of  liigh  quality  but  is  not 
imported  into  the  United  States  because  of  its  heavy  shrinkage. 
Reliable  figures  on  the  production  of  wool  in  British  South  Africa 
are  not  available,  but  since  practically  all  wool  produced  is  exported, 
the  exports  of  wool  from  British  South  Africa  are  a  good  index  of 
the  production.  The  exports  of  wool  were:  In  1908,  104,300,000 
pounds;  in  1909,  130,900,000  pounds;  and  in  1910,  121,700,000 
pounds.  The  exports  for  1910  consisted  of  14,1 10  pounds  of  washed 
wool,  4,208,461  pounds  of  scoured  wool,  and  117,449,687  pounds  of 
wool  in  the  grease.    The  wool  in  the  grease  was  valued  at  $17,395,869. 

Distribution  of  sheep. — The  Cape  Province  proper  contains  one- 
half  of  the  sheep  in  British  South  Africa.  Nine  million  six  hundred 
and  forty-one  tnousand  nine  hundred  and  ninety-four  of  her  sheep 
in  1910  were  merinos  and  6,023,859  crossbreds  or  natives.  Orange 
Free  State  has  a  larger  per  cent  of  merinos  than  this.  Six  million 
fifty-nine  thousand  eight  nundred  and  tliirteen  of  her  7,621,164  sheep 
were  reported  as  meiinos.  The  sheep  in  the  up-country  States,  sucn 
as  Rhodesia,  are  native  stock.  The  number,  distribution,  and  breeds 
of  sheep  in  British  South  Africa  are  given  in  Table  180,  on  the 
authority  of  United  States  consuls. 


Division. 


Sheep. 


Merino  or 
Avooled. 


Cape  of  Good  Hope: 

Cape  Province  (proper) 

Bechuanaland 

Transkei 

Tembuland 

Griqualand  East 

Pondoland  (East  and  West). 

Orange  Free  State  > 

NataP 

Transvaal 

Rhodesia  i 


Total. 


9,641,994 
215, 78:3 
503,257 
838,372 

1,048,666 
231,246 

6,059,813 


2,019,614 


Crossbreds 
or  native. 


6,023,859 

492, 764 

36 

10,964 

15,408 

4,535 

1,561,351 


1,150,094 


Total. 


15,665,853 

708,547 

503,293 

849,336 

1,064,074 

235, 781 

7,621,164 

1,068,998 

3,169,708 

215,715 


31,102,467 


1  Figures  for  1909. 


Goats  in  *Jie  Cape. — South  Africa  being  one  of  the  three  important 
countries  of  the  world  in  the  production  of  mohair,  the  number  of 
Angora  goats  there  is  important.  These  figures  are  available  only 
for  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  and  are  given  in  Table  181. 

Table  181.— Number  of  goats  in  the  Cape  of  Good  Ilope  in  1910. 


TGiritorial  divi<?fon 

Goats. 

Angora. 

Others. 

Cape  of  Good  Hope 

3,585,910 

4,965,381 

Cape  Province  (proper) 

3,295,694 
181,075 

3,484,304 
617,073 
234,954 
246,379 
278,085 
204,586 

Bechuanaland 

Transkei 

Tembuland 

28,693 
80,448 

Griqualand  East 

Pondoland 

SHEEP   INDUSTEY  AT   THE   RIVER   PLATE. 

Wool  produced. — The  number  of  sheep  reported  by  the  Argentina 
census  of  1908  was  67,211,754.  In  1910  there  were  reported 
26,286,296  sheep  in  Uruguay.  Wenz  &  Co.,  Rheims,  France,  esti- 
mate the  wool  produced  in  Argentina  in  1910  for  export  to  have 
been  327,200,000  pounds,  and  for  local  consumption  13,200,000 
pounds.  Wool  produced  in  Uruguay  for  export  in  1910  is  estimated 
at  124,300,000  pounds,  and  for  local  consumption  2,500,000  pounds. 
Distribution  of  sheep.— The  Province  of  Buenos  Aires  still  contains 
approximately  one-half  of  the  sheep  in  Argentina,  but  within  recent 
years  agriculture  has  encroached  on  the  sheep  pastures  and  the 
flocks  are  being  driven  toward  the  Andes.  Table  182  presents  the 
number  of  sheep  by  provinces  and  territories  in  Argentina.  It  also 
sliows  the  proportions  of  improved  and  native  stock.  The  provinces 
near  the  coast,  it  should  be  noted,  contain  a  larger  percentage  of 
improved  sheep  than  those  toward  the  mountains. 

32080°— H.  Doc.  342.  62-2.  vol  1 14 


210  ^PORT  OP  TABIPF  BOARD  Ol?  SCHEDULE   K. 

Table  1S2.— Number  of  sheep  in  Argentina,  by  Provinces,  in  1908. 


Provlnc©  or  territory. 


Breed  of  sheep. 


Thorough- 
bred. 


Province: 

Buenos  Aires 

Santa  Fe 

Entre  Rioa 

Corrientes 

Cordoba 

San  Luis 

Santiago  del  Estero. 

Tucnman 

Mendoza 

San  Juan 

La  Rioja 

Catamarea 

Salta 

^    Jujuy 

Temtory: 

Chaco 

Chubut 

Formosa 

1,03  Andes 

Misiones 

Neuquen 

La  Pampa 

Rio  Negro 

Santa  Crux 

Tierra  del  Fuego 


786,251 

25,048 

02,138 

32.656 

22.070 

3,724 

21 

42 

1,391 

829 

339 

222 

404 

378 

2 

10,302 


Half-bred. 


Native. 


Total, 


6,416 

151,116 

39,293 

6,673 
667 


1,179,482 


33,119,442 

623,237 

5,968,950 

2,702,920 

921,465 

316,446 

1,433 

3,074 

24,496 

27,836 

828 

3,107 

9,796 

1,670 

1,454 

1,425.705 

1,232 

3 

887 

390,599 

4,123.863 

3,305,193 

1.228,781 

1,246.334 


Total. 


65,448,749 


609,279 
320,521 
914,381 
402,987 
1,048,575 
547,246 
738,753 
121,132 
264,236 
68,156 
131,672 
151,000 
326,426 
599,919 

8,533 

687,621 

21,251 

54,130 

8,746 

276,942 

634,098 

1,380,358 

1,152,112 

95,450 


34,604,972 

969, 406 

7,005,469 

3,138,563 

1,992,110 

867,416 

740,207 

124,248 

290,123 

96,820 

132,837 

154,329 

336,628 

601,967 

9,989 

2,123,628 

22,483 

64,133 

9.633 

672,957 

4,809,077 

4,724,844 

2,387,566 

1,342,361 


10,583,523 


67,211,754 


Breeds  of  sheep.— -The  improved  flocks  in  Uruguay  are  chiefly 
menno.  The  crossbred  influence  has  not  affected  the  flockmasters 
there  as  it  has  those  in  the  Argentine.  In  1908  there  were  18,307,216 
full  blooded  and  crossbred  Lincoln  sheep  in  Argentina;  8,961,267  fuU 
blood  and  crossbred  Rambouillet,  and  10,583,523  native  sheep  The 
remainder  of  the  sheep  were  Negretes,  Southdowns,  Shropshires. 
Leicesters,  and  unspecified  breeds.  The  number  of  sheep  in  Ar^en- 
tma  IS  shown  by  breeds  in  Table  183.  i  «= 

Table  1S3. —Wumber  of  sheep,  by  breeds,  in  Argentina  in  1908. 


Breed. . 


Thorough- 
bred sheep 


Rambouillet 

Negret e '  *  * 

Lincoln '.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'. 

Southdown '.'.'.'.'.". 

Shropshire '.'.'.'.'.'.'.. 

Leicester 

Other  and  not  specified " '  * ' 

Thorough-bred  and  half-bred  wethers '.. 

Thorough-bred  and  half-bred  young  wethers. 

Thorough-bred  and  hatf-bred  lambs 

Native  stock 


25,449 
1.910 

56,018 

1,078 

3,905 

368 

14,636 


Half-bred 
sheep. 


178, 441 
4,768 

316,817 

7,638 

11.024 

2,425 

98,326 


Thorough- 
bred ewes. 


Total. 


2a5,43C 

11,790 

367,936 

10,129 

14,149 

2,849 

151.654 


Half-bred 
ewes. 


8,561,941 

370, 4C4 

17,566,445 

281,364 

275,872 

84,846 

0,003,994 


Total. 


8,961,267 

388.938 

18,307,216 

300,209 

304,950 

90,488 

6,268,510 

8,324,930 

12,354,247 

1,327,476 

10,583,523 


67,211,754 


BJSPOET  OF  TARIFF  BOABD   ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


SHEEP  IN   OTHER   COUNTRIES. 


211 


Statistics  of  the  number  of  sheep  in  countries  other  than  those 
alread;^  discussed  in  this  report  are  of  widely  varying  accuracy. 
Statistics  for  European  countries  are  reliable.  Those,  on  the  con- 
trary, for  countries  backward  in  economic  progress  are  mere  estimates. 
Table  184  gives  the  number  of  sheep  in  countries  not  discussed  in  this 
report  separately. 

Table  184. — Number  of  sheep  in  specified  countrle.%  from  the  latest  returns  or  estimates. 


Country. 


Number  of 
sheep. 


Russian  Empire  i 
ottoman  Empire, 

British  India 

China 

France 

Spain 

Austria-Hungary . 

Italy 

Algeria 

Bulgaria 

Germany 

Roumania 

Greece 

Chile 

Persia 

Mexico 

Servia 

Portugal 

Peru 

Canada 


82,672,123 

41,000,000 

21.824,000 

18,900,000 

17,357,640 

15,471,183 

13,991,500 

11,160,000 

9,032,177 

8,131,000 

7,703,710 

5,655,444 

4,570,000 

4,244,266 

3,700,000 

3,424,000 

3,160,166 

3,150,000 

3,000,000 

2,598,470 


German  East  Africa 

Sudan 

Norway 

Sweden 

Denmark 

Egypt 

Tunis 

Colombia 

Fallcland  Islands 

Netherlands 

Montenegro 

Iceland 

Central  America 

Brazil 

Cyprus 

Senium 

Switzerland 

Ceylon 

West  Indies  (except  Cuba) 
Philippines ! 


Number  of 
sheep. 


1,560,000 

1,421,721 

1,378,517 

1,024,510 

1,003,000 

920,000 

685,027 

746,000 

689,000 

607,000 

496,856 

495, 100 

442,950 

380,000 

302,000 

236,000 

209,997 

96,300 

61,400 

30,400 


1  Includes  European  Russia,  Siberia,  and  the  nine  Asiatic  provinces. 

WOOL  MARKETS   AND   REPRESENTATIVE   PRICES. 

London  wool  auctions. — ^The  most  important  wool  auction  in  the 
world  is  held  in  the  Wool  Auction  House,  Coleman  Street,  London, 
E.  C.  The  chief  wools  sold  here  are  from  the  British  colonies,  from 
Australasia  and  the  Cape.  Table  185  shows  the  number  of  bales 
(about  350  pounds)  and  their  origin  catalogued  for  sale  in  1908,  1909, 
and  1910,  as  reported  by  Helmuth  Schwartze  &,  Co. 

Table  185. — Colonial  wools  catalogued  and  aclvxilly  sold  in  London. 


Sydney 

Queensland 

Port  Phillip """[["" 

Adelaide 

Tasmania 

Western  Australia 

New  Zealand [[',[', 

Australasian 

Cape 

Colonial  catalogued 

Actually  sold  (of  first-hand  wools) 


Total,  1910. 


Bales. 

137,432 

100,632 

95,745 

30,500 

10,612 

69,091 

378,269 


822,281 
41,929 


864,210 


807,000 


Total,  1909. 


Bales. 

171,630 

102,036 

91,072 

36,500 

11,134 

69,747 

400,146 


872,265 
41,972 


914,237 


874,000 


Total,  1908. 


Bales. 

235,011 

127,330 

133,870 

38,085 

16,474 

49,468 

430,940 


1,031,178 
52,108 


1,083,286 


1,005,000 


212 


KEPORT  OF  TABIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


BEPOKT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


213 


The  amount  of  British  colonial  wool  sold  on  the  London  auctions 
which  wr  retained  in  the  United  Kingdom  for  honie  c?nsumption 
and  the  amount  that  was  reexported  to  other  countries  is  shown  m 
Table  186. 

Table  1S6.— Distribution  of  the  wool  sold  on  the  London  colonial  sales. 


Bales  retained  for  eonsumplion  in  the  United  Kingdom. 
Purchased  for  reexport  to  other  countries 


1910 


458,000 
349,000 


1909 


454.000 
420,000 


1908 


528,000 
477,000 


Auctions  in  Australasia.— Wiihm  comparativeljsr  recent  years  the 
wool  auctions  held  at  various  points  in  Australasia  have  become 
important  and  tliere  seems  to  be  an  increasing  tendency  among  buy- 
ers to  buy  the  wool  in  the  country  of  origin  rather  than  in  London 
Sales  held  in  Sydney,  Melbourne,  Adelaide,  Brisbane,  and  other 
centers  have  threatened  the  supremacv  of  the  Lonfo"  sales  Tab  e 
187  shows  the  number  of  bales  of  woof  sold  at  auction  in/"^tralasia 
in  the  season  of  1910-11,  classified  by  places  of  sale  and  quality  of 
wool. 

Table  1S7.— Merino  and  crossbred  sales  in  Australasia,  1910-11. 


Description. 

Sydney. 

Melbourne. 

Geelong. 

AdeJaide. 

Fremantle. 

Merino            •... -•• 

Boies. 
739,001 

44.708 

94 
6 

BaUs. 

219,740 

146,494 

PM. 

60 

40 

Boies. 
68,794 

52,139 

P.ct. 
53 

Boies. 
130,321 

P^t. 
90 

10 

Bales. 
1,145 

305 

P.ct. 
79 

Crossbred  and  all  strong 
wool  breeds 

47     14, 728 

21 

784,309 

366,234    

110,933 

145,049 

1 

.     1,450 

Total -- 

Description. 

Brisbane. 

Tasmania. 

14 

New  Zealand. 

Total,  1910-11. 

ILfpflfi/i                                  .•...*> 

Bales. 
212.398 

2,762 

P.ct. 

99 

1 

Bales. 
8,599 
10,821 

P. 

Bales. 
7,512 
215, 100 

P.ct. 

3    ] 
97 

Bales. 
1,378,110 
487,057 

P.ct. 
74 
26 

Crossbred  and  all  strong  wc 

K)!  breeds.. 

5t> 

Total 

215,  IGO 

19,420 

222,012 

11,865,167 

0<A«raMrfi0TW.-Coarse  wools  (in  the  United  States  tariff  classifica- 
tion, class  3,  wools)  are  sold  to  sonae  extent  m  London  ^utL^^^^^^^ 
is  the  chief  center  of  d.s  ribut.on  >n  England  East  India  wools  are 
the  most  important  m  her  sales.  Tlie  Antwerp  wool  sales  Handle 
more  extensively  than  any  others  the  South  American  wools.  South 
American  bales  weigh  approxunately  1,000  pounds  Vn<Tl«nd 

Prices  of  representative  foreign  wools.— Fuces  of  wool  m  ^nglana 
arf  f"  Wy  representative  of  the  world  conditions  of  wool  production 
both  beLus^  that  country  is  so  important  as  a  distributmg  center 
and  because  no  legislation  interferes  with  the  free  mgress  and  egress 
^tool  Table  188  presents  the  prices  in  England  ot  representative 
wools  and  hairs  for  each  year  since  1877.  The  first  four  wools  are  m 
the  United  States  tariff  classification,  class  1,  wools;  Donskoi  la 
third  class;  and  mohair  and  alpaca  are  second  class. 


Table  188.—. 


Prices  per  pound  in  England  for  each  year  since  1877  of  some  foreign  wools 
as  reported  by  the  Bradford  Chamber  of  Commerce. 


Year. 


1877 

—1878 

ri87y 

/   1880 

*n881-.   .. 

1882 

1883 

1884 

1885 

18feG 

1887 

1888 

1889 

18W 

1891 

1892 

1893 

1894 

1895 

1896 

1897 

1898 

1899 

1900 

1901 

1902 , 

1903 

1904 , 

1905 

1906 

1907 

1908 

1909 

1910 


Port  Phillip 

(grease, 

good, 

average). I 


24.  C 
24.3 
23.6 
27.4 
24.3 
25.4 
24.0 
23.3 
20.3 
19.8 
20.5 
20.8 
23.3 
21.8 
20.3 
17.7 
17.5 
16.2 
17.7 
19.0 
18.8 
19.8 
24.8 
23.3 
19.3 
26.4 
24.3 
26.4 
27.4 
27.4 
26.4 
25.4 
27.4 
26.4 


Adelaide 

(grease, 

average).* 


Cape 
Eastern 
(average 
fleece)  .1 


Buenos 

Aires 

(average 

grease).* 


18.5 
18.5 
17.2 
21.5 
18.8 
18.3 
17.2 
16.5 
13.7 
13.7 
14.2 
14.2 
16.7 
15.2 
13.9 
12.2 
12.2 
10.9 
11.4 
12.9 
12.  2 
13^4 
17.2 
16.0 
12.9 
17.2 
16.2 
17.2 
18.3 
18.8 
17.7 
17.2 
19.3 
18.3 


25.4 
23.6 
22.6 
25.6 
22.8 
23.6 
22.8 
21.0 
18.3 
17.7 
18.3 
17.5 
20.5 
19.3 
17.7 
15.7 
15.7 
15.0 
14.2 
15.2 
14.4 
16.5 
22.3 
19.8 
14.2 
18.8 
18.3 
19.8 
20.8 
21.3 
20.3 
17.7 
20.3 
20.3 


12.7 

11.7 

13-7 

15.2 

14.2 

13.7 

13.2 

12  2 

9.1 

11.7 

10.4 

12.2 

13.7 

11.7 

10.1 

9.9 

9.4 

7.6 

8.9 

8.6 

8.6 

10.4 

»16.2 

»8.6 

8  9.4 

Ml.  7 

8  11.9 

8  12.2 
12.9 
13.7 
12.7 
11.9 
13.4 
13.2 


Donskoi 
(average 

white 
carding). 


Alpaca 

(Arcquipa). 


Mohair. 


18.8 
15  2 
19.3 
21.3 
19.3 
17.7 
16.2 
14.7 
14.7 
17.2 
14.2 
14.2 
15.2 
14.7 
14.2 
13.7 
14.2 

ia2 

14.2 
14.2 
12.7 
11.7 
•12.2 
8  11.7 
11.2 
13.2 
13.7 
18.3 
17. 
18. 
16. 
15. 
16.2 
16.7 


53.  7-57. 8 

31.  4-33. 5 

32.  4-38.  5 
2a  4-31.  4 

30.  4-34. 5 

26.  4-30.  4 

31.  4-34. 5 
28.4-33.5 
25.  4-29.  4 

22.  3-28.  4 
22. 3-27. 4 
20.  3-23.  3 
21. 8-48.  7 
44.  6-29.  4 
29. 9-24. 8 

23.  3-31.  4 

27.  4-33.  0 
28. 9-33. 5 
28. 9-54. 8 
29.4-^.6 
26. 9-29. 9 

24.  3-28.  4 
24. 3-36. 5 

32.  4-26.  4 

25.  4-32.  4 

31.  4-39. 5 
38.5-46.6 
38.  5-34. 5 
31. 4-36. 0 
34. 5-31. 9 

32.  4-41.  6 
29.  4-36.  0 
33. 5-36. 0 
36. 0-3&  0 


66.9  71  60.8 
60.8-66. 
36. 5^  54. : 

54.8  71  42.6^ 
42.6-38.; 
38. 5-45. 6 
40. 6-43. 6 
37. 5-45. 6 
28.  4-38. 5 
23. 3-32.  4 
25. 4-29. 4 
24.  a-28. 4 
25.4-42.6 
36. 5-27. 4 

28.  4-24. 3 
24.  3-29. 4 
24.3-37.5 
27.  4-31. 4 
28.4-60.8 
31.  4^2. 7 

29.  4-36. 5 
30.4-38.5 
34. 5-42. 6 
41.6-34  5 
38.5-34.5 

30.4 
27. 4-30. 4 
27. 4-32.  4 
27.4-32.4 
31.4-34.5 
33. 5-36. 5 
35. 5-30. 4 
32.5-35.5 
33.5-34.5 


I  Average  prices. 

8  Prices  of  Buenos  Aires  based  tliroughout  upon  30  per  cent  yield. 

•  Prices  at  end  of  year. 


This  is  a  heavy  shrinking  wool. 


CONSUMPTION   OF   RAW   WOOL. 

Hclmuth  Schwartze  &  Co.,  of  London,  estimate  that  the  available 
supply  of  raw  wool  in  condition  received  in  1910  was  2,546,000,000 
pounds  and  that  this  amount  was  equal  to  1,403,000,000  pounds  of 
clean  wool.  Assuming  the  population  of  Europe  and  North  America 
to  be  510,000,000  there  were  available  in  1910  4.99  pounds  of  wool  in 
condition  received  for  each  head  of  population,  and  this  is  equal  to 
2.75  pounds  of  clean  wool  per  head  of  population.  The  amount  of 
wool  left  for  consunaption  is  reported  for  each  year  since  1899  by 
Helmuth  Schwartze  &  Co.  in  Table  189. 


214 


BEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  02^-  SCHEDULE  K. 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


215 


ji| 


i| 


Tablb  189. — Raw  wool  lejt/or  amsumpHon  in  Europe  and  North  America, 
[As  estimated  by  Helmutli  Schwartze  &  C<f ,  London.] 


Year. 

Raw  wool  left  for  consmuption  (in  million  pounds). 

Popalatior. 

Europe  and 

North 

America. 

Left  for  consumption 
per  head  of  popula- 
tion. 

Unite*! 
Kingdom. 

Continent. 

North 
America. 

Grand  total. 

Raw  wool. 

Clean 
wool. 

1899 

1901) 

1901. 

1902 

1903 

1904 

1906 

1906 

1907 

1908 

1909 

1910 

523 

502 
541 
490 
44B 
437 
468 
515 
691 
524 
536 
613 

1,359 
1,081 
1,270 
1,244 
1,271 
1,197 
1,214 
1,267 
1,375 
1,307 
2,390 
1,423 

879 
412 
441 

606 
476 
495 
657 
610 
602 
464 
657 
610 

2,261 

2,025 
2,252 
2,240 
2,195 
2,129 
2,239 
2,292 
2,468 
2,295 
2,592 
2,546 

Milliona. 
450 
455 
460 
465 
470 
475 
480 
486 
492 
498 

mi 

610 

Pounds. 
5.02 
4.45 
4.90 
4.82 
4.67 
4.48 
4.66 
4.72 
5.02 
4.61 
5.14 
4.99 

Pounds. 
2.75 
2.47 
2.60 
2.67 
2.60 
2.50 
2.59 
2.63 
2.77 
2.53 
2.83 
2.75 

The  aTerage  quantity  of  clean  wool  per  head  of  population  at  the  dis- 
posal of  the  wool  industry  in  Europe  and  North  America  from  18G1 
to  1870  was  2.26  pounds;  from  1871  to  1880,  2.43  pounds,  an  increase 
of  7i  per  cent;  from  1881  to  1890,  2.57  pounds,  an  increase  of  6  per 
cent;  from  1891  to  1900,  2.76  pounds,  an  increase  of  7 J  per  cent;  from 
1901  to  1910,  2.65  pounds,  a  decrease  of  4  per  cent.  These  figures 
are  also  from  the  circular  of  Helmuth  Schwartzo  &  Co. 

SHODDY   INDUSTRY   IX   THE   UNITED   STATES. 

Development  arid  organization  of  the  industry. — In  its  relation  gener- 
ally to  wool  manufactures,  the  shoddy  industry  is  a  raw-material  in- 
dustry. Its  products  are  used  as  substitutes  for  raw  wool,  and  while 
in  itsVelation  to  rags  it  is  a  manufacturing  industry,  in  its  relation  to 
the  larger  field  of  wool  manufactures  it  is  a  raw-material  industry.     | 

The  process  of  reclaiming  wool  from  woolen  rags  was  invented  in 
England  between  1810  and  1820,  but  was  not  used  to  any  extent  in  tliis 
country  until  the  middle  of  the  century.  In  1859,  the  census  reported 
30  estabHshments  producing  shoddy  products  valued  at  $402,590. 
The  shoddy  indust^has  remained  prac  tic  all v  stationary  since  1889, 
when  the  value  of  the  products  was  larger  than  thcv  were  either  in 
1899  or  1909.  The  products  of  this  industry  were  larger,  however, 
in  1904  than  in  any  other  year  reported.  The  statistics  of  the  shoddy 
industry  do  not  show  the  total  production  of  shoddy  in  the  country, 
because  many  woolen  mills  buy  and  grind  up  their  own  rags  into 
shoddy  for  their  own  use. 

Table  190  presents  a  comparative  summary  of  the  shoddy  industry 
since  1859. 


Table  190. — Comparative  summary  of  the  shoddy  industry  in  the  United  States  1859  to 

1909. 


Number  of  establishments 

Capital 

Salaried  ofBcials,  clerks,  etc., 

number 

Salaries 

Wage  earners,  average  number- 
Total  wages 

Miscellaneous  expenses 

Cost  of  materials  used 

Value  of  products 


Census. 


1909 


1904 


88 
$6,877,959 

196 

$289,685 

2,041 

$906,691 

$448,886 


97 
$5,804,164 

172 

$245, 403 

2,089 

$834,822 

$461,527 


1899 


105 


1889 


1879 


1869 


1859 


94l 


73 


$5, 000, 706  $6, 055, 731 


$7,446,364 


$8,406,425 


$5,272,929$3,754,0G3$l,lG5,10O{    $815,950 


139 

$166,704 

1,926 

$748,948 
$293,149 


U44 

»  $149, 483 

2,155 

$707,099 

$238,094 


$4,875,19216,003,035 
$6,730,974i$7,887,000 


(2) 

(«) 
1,282 

$400,326 


56 


632 
$198,372 


$3,366,650;it,098,603 
$4,989,61511,768,592 


30 

$123,500 

(*) 
(*) 

290 
$54,124 

(») 
$227,925 


» Includes  proprietors  and  firm  members,  with  their  salaries;  number  only  reported  m  1900  and  1906 
but  not  included  in  this  table.  •>      ^  "^  «"^  ^j~«» 

•  Not  reported  separately. 
»  Not  reported. 

Table  190  shows  that  the  greatest  relative  advance  in  the  shoddy 
industry  was  from  1859  to  1869,  when  the  value  of  the  products 
increased  339.3  per  cent.  From  1869  to  1879  the  value  of  products 
increased  182.1  per  cent,  and  from  1879  to  1889  they  increased  58.1 
per  cent.  From  1889  to  1899  there  was  a  decline  of  14.7  per  cent 
and  a  slight  increase  of  10.6  per  cent  from  1899  to  1909.  The  capital 
invested  in  the  shoddy  industry  varied  in  about  the  same  propor- 
tion as  the  value  of  the  products.  The  wages  paid  in  1909  were 
$906,691,  w^hich  shows  an  increase  over  1899  of  21  per  cent.  Mate- 
rials used  in  1889  were  valued  at  $6,003,035;  they  had  declined  in 
value  in  1899,  18.8  per  cent,  and  from  that  increased  only  2.4  per 
cent  in  1909.  The  largest  increase  in  value  of  the  product,  as  com- 
pared with  the  cost  of  the  material  between  1899  and  1909,  is  due 
to  the  decided  fall  in  the  price  of  rags. 

Distrihution  of  tie  shoddy  industry. —The  distribution  of  the  shoddy 
mdustry  m  the  United  States  is  shown  in  T  ble  191. 

Table  191. —Shoddy  hidustry  in  the  United  States,  hy  States,  1909. 


Numlxir  of  establishments 

Persons  employed,  number 

balaned  employees,  number 

.\^  age  earners  (average  number).. 
Capital 

Expenses,  total .'.'..', 

Services 

Salaries '.[ 

Wages .'.!]";:::; 

Miscellaneous  expenses. .  . 

Materials,  total  cost 

Products,  total  value  . 


United 

States. 


Massa- 
chusetts. 


88 

2,237 

196 

2,041 

$6,877,959 

$6,641,046 

$1,196,376 

$289,685 

$906,691 

$448,886 

$5,000,706 

$7,446,364 


27 

497 
55 

442 

$1,518,773 

$1,608,530 

$290,948 

$88,696 

$202,252 

$124,181 

$1,193,401 

$1,765,609 


New 
York. 


14 

248 

25i 

223 

$905,363 

$806,326 

$139,558 

$33,265 

$106,293 

$42,782 

$623,986 

$869,364 


Ohio. 


Pennsyl- 
vania. 


4 

468 

30 

438 

$1,095,562 

$1,137,725 

$262,149 

$62,379 

$199,770 

$133,932 

$741,644 

$1,257,173 


20 

486 

36 

450 

$1,627,096 

$1,770,058 

$232, 779 

$47,039 

$185,740 

$74,061 

$1,463,218 

$2,051,118 


All  other 
states. 


23 

5,538 

50 

488 

$1,671,165 

$1,318,407 

$270,942 

$58,306 

$212,636 

$73,930 

$978,457 

$1,503,100 


\r.  T^  l^^^^y  industry,  as  might  be  expected,  is  located  cliiefly 
m  the  btates  where  the  carded  woolen  manufacturers  are  the  most 
numerous.     In  1909  the  27  miUs  in  Massachusetts  produced  prod- 

wlf^T^/'^  •^^'^^^'^^^'  ^t  2^  estabhshments  of  Pennsylvania, 
located  chiefly  m  and  near  Phdadelphia,  returned  products  valued 


216 


EEPOKT  OF  TAKIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


at  $2,051,118,  and  the  4  establishments,  of  Ohio  returned  products 
vahied  at  $1,257,173.  The  figures  for  OMo  show  that  the  unit  of 
shoddy  production  in  that  State  is  much  larger  than  in  the  others. 
The  4  estabUshments  there  turned  out  products  almost  equal  in 
value  to  the  products  turned  out  by  the  27  estabhshments  in  Massa- 
chusetts, and^two-thirds  greater  than  the  products  turned  out  by  the 
14  estabhshments  in  New  York.  Cleveland  is  the  chief  center  of 
shoddy  manufactures  in  Ohio. 

Mechanical  equipment  of  shoddy  miUs, — The  macliinery  of  a  shoddy 
mill  is  comparatively  simple.  It  consists  of  the  picker— i.  e.,  a 
macliine  which  first  breaks  the  weave  structure  of  the  rag  and  reduces 
it  to  a  fibrous  mass,  and  the  final  reduction  of  this  fibrous  mass  to 
the  form  of  shoddy  is  accomplished  by  means  of  cards  or  gamett 
machmes.  In  1909  there  were  in  the  United  States  346  pickers, 
453  sets  of  cards,  and  158  gamett  machines  producing  shoddy. 

Materials  used  in  the  shoddy  industry.— The  quantity  and  cost  of 
materials  used  in  the  shoddy  mdustry  m  the  United  States  is  shown 
in  Table  192. 

Table  192.— Materials  used  in  the  shoddy  industry  of  the  United  States,  1909  and  1899. 


Item. 


Total  cost ;  - 

Wool,  foreign  and  domestic,  in 

condition  purchased.. 

Wool,  foreign  and  domestic,  in 

scoured  condition 

Tailors'  clippings,  rags,  etc 

Waste  and  noils  of  wool,  camel's- 

hair,  mohair,  etc 

Chemicals  and  d vestuffs 

Fuel,  rent  of  power,  mill  supplies, 

and  all  other  materials 


1909 


1899 


Pounds. 


237,097 

196.097 
64,561,713 

7,567,579 


Cost. 


15,000,706 
98,032 


3,051,045 

917,976 
138,241 

795,412 


rounds. 


422,349 

242.997 
79,623,312 

4,236,028 


Cost. 


$4,875,192 
127,099 

"*3,*  558,"  706' 

693,972 
111,095 

384,320 


rer  cent  of  increase. 


Pounds. 


Cost. 


143.86 

119.30 
U8.92 

78.65 


2.57 
122.87 


114.27 

32.28 
24.43 

106.  »7 


1  Decrease. 


Table  192  shows  that  a  small  amount  of  both  foreign  and  domestic 
wool  is  used,  chiefly  for  mixmg,  in  the  shoddy  industry  in  the  United 
States.  It  shows  also  that  during  the  decade  the  amount  of  this 
wool  used  in  these  mills  has  dechned.  The  waste  and  noils  of  wool 
used  increased  duringthe  decade  78.65  per  cent  m  quantity  and  32.28 
per  cent  in  value.  The  noils  were  used  generally  for  mixmg  with 
shoddy  to  improve  its  spinning  qualities;  the  wastes  were  used  in 
making  garnetted  stock.  Tailors'  chppmgs  and  rags,  both  new  and 
old,  are  the  chief  raw  material  of  UiQ  shoddy  mdustry.  In  1909 
there  were  consumed  64,561,713  pounds  of  rags,  which  is  18.92  per 
cent  less  than  was  consumed  in  1899.  ,       .    ,  ,       , 

Products  of  shoddy  industry.— In  1909  the  industry  produced 
48  375,724  pounds  of  shoddy,  valued  at  $5,699  260.  The  remainder 
of 'the  $7,446,364  worth  of  products  consisted  chiefly  of  garnetted 
waste  wool  extract,  and  the  amounts  received  for  commission  work. 
The  quantity  of  shoddy  produced  in  1904  was  54,401,295  pounds, 
valued  at  $6,831,689,  aud  in  1899  it  was  39,014,661  pounds,  valued 
at  $5,388,378. 


r 


i 


PART  I:  GLOSSARY  ON  SCHEDULE  K 


SECTION  4 


217 


SECTIOBT  4.— WOOL  MAHUFACTXJEES  UST  lEADXITG   COTJITTEIES. 


I 


i 


WORSTED   INDUSTRY  IN   THE  UNITED    STATES. 

Development, — Until  comparatively  recent  times  wool  combing  was 
done  by  hand.  Just  prior  to  the  middle  of  the  nineteenth  century 
the  inventions  of  Lister,  Heilmann,  Donisthorpe,  Holden,  and  Noble 
raised  mechanical  combing  to  a  basis  of  conmaerical  success.  Before 
this  time  the  labor  involved  in  hand  combing  made  it  practical  to 
comb  only  the  long-luster  Enghsh  wool.  In  1867,  when  Schedule  K 
was  drafted,  therefore,  the  worsted  industry  was  a  comparatively 
small  and  infant  indiistry  in  the  United  States,  confined  to  the  pro- 
duction of  dress  goods, 'braids,  etc.  Under  the  reciprocity  treaty 
with  Canada  (1854-1860)  it  had  had  access  to  free  raw  materials, 
but  the  high  cost  of  hand  combing  and  the  limited  demand  for  a  spe- 
ciahzed  product  found  the  industry,  even  in  1859,  with  products  valued 
at  only  $3,701,378,  and  these  were  produced  by  three  mills. 

While  the  duty  placed  on  long  class  2  wools  by  the  tariff  of  1867 
was  a  sUght  check  to  the  worsted  industry,  the  high  rates  on  ita 
products  and  the  rapid  improvement  in  combing  machinery  caused 
the  industry  to  increase  rapidly.  By  1869  there  were  102  worsted 
establishments  in  the  United  States,  which  turned  out  a  product  val- 
ued at  $22,090,331.  The  improvement  in  combing  machinery  made 
it  possible  to  comb  the  short  wool.  This  fact  and  the  growth  of  the 
frozen-mutton  trade  in  the  countries  of  the  Southern  Hemisphere 
encouraged  the  raismg  of  crossbred  wool,  and  tliis  wool,  in  turn,  stim- 
ulated the  production  of  worsteds  for  men's  wear.  In  addition, 
fashion  favored  the  smooth  worsted  fabric  as  against  the  rough 
woolen,  and  the  industry  went  ahead  at  an  unprecedented  rate.  Some 
carded  woolen  manufacturers  turned  their  attention  to  weaving 
worsted  yarns  and  thus  became  a  market  for  large  combing  and  spin- 
nmg  worsted  mills.  .  ^      , 

From  1869  to  1879  the  value  of  worsted  products  mcreased  only  to 
$33,549,942,  but  the  inroads  that  the  new  industry  was  making  on 
the  carded  woolen  manufacture  were  already  evident.  The  value 
of  the  products  of  the  latter  increased  between  1869  and  1879  only 
3.3  per  cent,  while  the  value  of  the  products  of  the  worsted  industry 
increased  during  the  same  period  51.9  per  cent.  From  1879  to  1889 
the  products  of  the  worsted  mills  more  than  doubled,  and  stood  in 
1889  at  $79,194,652,  while  the  products  of  the  carded  woolen  branch 
declined  from  $160,606,721  in  1879  to  $133,577,977  in  1889.  By  1899 
the  worsted  industry  had  passed  the  woolen  industry.  Its  products 
were  valued  at  $120,314,344  and  the  products  of  the  woolen  mdustry 
were  valued  at  $118,430,158.  By  1909  the  value  of  the  products  of 
the  worsted  branch  of  the  industry  rose  to  $312,624,663,  while,  on  the 
contrary,  the  value  of  the  products  of  the  woolen  branch  of  the 
industry  declined  to  $107,118,858. 


^ii 


220 


BEPORT  OF  TABIFF  BOARD  OK  SCHEDULE  K. 


Organization  of  the  worsted  industry.— The  distinctive  features  of 
the  present  organization  of  the  worsted  industry  are  the  large  average 
size  of  the  mills  and  the  specialization  in  processes.  The  average 
value  of  products  per  establishment  in  1909  was  $964,891,  and  in  1899 
it  was  only  $646,851,  thus  showing  an  unmistakable  growth  in  the  size 
of  the  producing  unit.  In  the  carded  woolen  branch,  on  the  con- 
trary, tlie  average  value  of  products  per  establishment  in  1909  was 
only  $182,485,  and  in  1899  only  $114,425.  This  is  also  anmcrease  due 
in  part  to  the  disappearance  of  a  large  number  of  small  country  mills, 
but  the  fact  still  remains  that  the  worsted  industry  is  composed  of 
much  larger  mills  than  the  woolen  industry. 

In  the  worsted  industry  there  are  a  large  number  of  mills  which 
weave  only;  there  are  others  which  comb  and  spin,  and  a  number 
which  buy  tops  and  do  nothing  but  spin,  and  a  very  few  which  comb 
only.  A  comparatively  few  mills  carry  the  raw  material  through 
BYerj  process  from  raw  wool  to  finished  cloth.  These  are  some  of 
the  largest  mills  in  the  world  and  turn  out  a  large  proportion  of  the 
total  output  of  the  industry.  In  these  mills,  however,  there  is  a 
noticeable  specializing  in  processes,  for  scouring,  combing,  spinning, 
weaving,  and  finishmg  are  performed  at  least  in  separate  depai-tments, 
and  often  in  separate  and  distinct  plants.  The  tendency  toward 
specialization  is  on  the  increase,  but  the  mdustry  in  this  country  h^ 
not  yet  reached  the  stage  in  this  respect  that  it  has  reached  abroad, 
where  the  subdivision  of  processes  is  carried  much  further. 

In  the  woolen  industry,  on  the  contrary,  the  tvpical  mill  combines 
all  processes  from  raw  wool  to  finished  cloth.  There  being  no 
combing  and  drawmg  in  the  woolen  process,  there  are  fewer  separate 
steps,  and  the  machinery  reciuu-ed,  as  compared  with  tlie  worsted 
machinery,  is  more  simple  and  less  costly.  A  few  woolen  mills  spin 
only,  but  these  make  yam  for  carpet  and  knitting  industries  rather 
than  for  sale  to  carded  woolen  manufactures.  Table  193  presents, 
in  a  comparative  summary,  the  progress  of  the  worsted  mdustnea 
since  1859. 

Tablb  W^.— Comparative  mmmanj  of  worsted  industry  in  the  United  States,  1859  to  1909. 


Number  of  establish- 
ments  

Capital 

Number  salaried  offi- 
cials, clerks,  etc 

Salaries 

Average  number  wage 
earners 

Total  wapes 

Miscellaneous  expenses 

Cost  of  materials  used,. 

VaJue  of  products 

Number  of  spindles — 

Number  of  looms 

Number  of  combing 
machines 


Census  of — 


1909 


1904 


324  220 

$295, 057, 923  $162, 464,  m 


3. 
$6,034, 


213 
747 


ill. 
$47,131, 

$14,854. 
$207,786. 
$312,624, 
2,624, 
4o>270i 


248 
871 
507 
936 
663 
230 


1,925 


1.S47 


1899 


$2, 


1,369 
342,218 


69,251 

$26,269,787  $20, 

$8,301,579  $6, 

$109,658,481  $77. 

$165, 745, 052  $120, 


1889 


1879 


1869 


1859 


186      143 
$132, 168, 110  $88, 085, 116  $20, 


1  615 
I  $935,217 


1,618.207 
30,910 

1,312 


1, 


57,008  42, 
002,738  814,944, 
767,611  $4,917, 
075,222l$50,706, 
314, 344  $79, 194, 


15, 


371,026 
26,372 


755. 
19, 


978 

966 

760 

769;$22, 

652  $33, 

080 

095 

ft73 


76 
374,043 

(*) 

683,027 

(») 

013,628 

549,942 

240. 118 

14,411 

288 


102 
$10,085,778 

12,920 
$4,368,857 

(») 
$14,308.198'$2.442,775 

$22,090,331i$3,701,378 


$3,230,000 

(«) 
{') 

2,378 
$543,684 
(») 


200,617 
6,128 

161 


(») 
(J) 


» Includes  proprietors  and  Qrm  members,  with  their  salaries;  number  only  reported  in  1900  and  1905, 
but  not  included  in  this  table. 
»  Not  reported  separately.  • 

8  Not  reported. 


EEPOKT  OF  TAEIFF   BOAKD   ON   SCHEDULE   K* 


221 


The  phenomenal  increase  of  the  worsted  mdustry  is  shown  in  Table 
193.  The  capital  invested  in  it  increased  between  1859  and  1869, 
212!3  per  cent;  between  1869  and  1879,  102  per  cent;  between  1879 
and  1889,  234.2  per  cent;  between  1889  and  1899,  94.1  per  cent;  and 
between  1899  and  1909,  123.2  per  cent.  In  1909  the  amount  of 
capital  invested  in  the  324  worsted  mills  was  $295,057,923.  The 
total  amount  of  wages  paid  did  not  increase  as  fast  as  capital  invested, 
except  between  1859  and  1869  and  between  1899  and  1909.  Wages 
paid  increased  between  1899  and  1909  134.7  per  cent.  The  cost  of 
materials  used  increased  between  1859  and  1869  485.7  per  cent; 
between  1869  and  1879,  53.9  per  cent;  between  1879  and  1889,  130.3 
per  cent;  between  1889  and  1899,  52  per  cent;  and  between  1899 
and  1909,  169.6  per  cent.  The  increase  in  the  value  of  products 
between  1899  and  1909  (205.6  per  cent)  was  greater  than  the  increase 
in  the  cost  of  material. 

The  figures  relating  to  the  value  of  product  of  worsted  as  well  as 
other  branches  of  wool  manufactures  contain  a  certain  amount  of 
duplication,  because  they  include  the  value  of  partially  manufactured 
products  of  some  mills  which  were  subsequently  used  as  raw  mate- 
rials in  other  mills.  They  were  therefore  counted  both  in  the  former 
case  as  partially  manufactured  products  made  for  sale,  and  are 
included  again  in  the  value  of  the  finished  products  into  which  they 
enter  in  the  mill  purchasing  partially  manufactured  products.  As 
specialization  in  top  making  and  yarn  spinning  increases,  this  dupli- 
cation of  products  will  become  more  and  more  important. 

Distribution  of  the  worsted  industry. — The  distribution  of  the  worsted 
industry  in  the  United  States  is  shown,  by  States,  for  1909,  in  Table 
194. 

Table  1^4^.— Worsted  industry  in  the  United  States,  hy  States,  1909. 


Item. 


Number  of  establishments 

Persons  employed,  number 

Salariea  employees,  number 

Wage  earners  (average  number)  — 

Capital 

Exi)enses,  total 

Services 

Salaries 

Wages 

Miscellaneous  expenses 

Materials,  total  cost 

Products,  total  value 

Item. 

Number  of  establishments 

Persons  employed,  number 

Salariea  employees,  number 

Wage  earners  (average  number) 

Capital 

Expenses,  total 

Services 

Salaries 

Wages 

Miscellaneous  expenses 

Materials,  total  cost 

Products,  total  value 


United  States. 


Connecticut. 


Massachusetts. 


324 

114,461 

3,213 

111,248 

$295,057,923 

$275,828,061 

$53,186,618 

$6,034,747 

$47,151,871 

§14,854,507 

$207,786,936 

$312,624,663 


17 

3,826 

165 

3,661 

$10,790,252 

$9,298,388 

$1,881,764 

$278,771 

$1,602,993 

$269,493 

$7,147,131 

$10,172,044 


74 

38,109 

998 

37,111 

$99,158,231 

$90,570,395 

$18,626,229 

$1,867,134 

$16,759,095 

$5,887,615 

$66,056,551 

$106,099,221 


New  Jersey. 


21 

10,972 

339 

10,633 

$29,551,141 

$24,019,287 

$4,862,488 

ri6,368 

$4,146,120 

$838,642 

$18,318,157 

$29,641,621 


New  York. 


15 

5,670 

177 

5,493 

$14,560,384 

$11,689,598 

$2,488,933 

$376,223 

$2,112,710 

$937,993 

$8,262,672 

$12,797,041 


Pennsylvania. 


99 

20,454 

659 

19,795 

$57,519,759 

$54,765,798 

$8, 879,. 'WO 

$1,227,292 

$7,652,208 

$2,582,888 

$43,303,410 

$59,416,106 


Rhode  Island. 


67 
23,491 

660 

22,831 

$63,813,671 

$62,352,913 

$11,697,783 

$1,207,287 
$10,490,496 

$2,530,466 
$48,124,664 
$69,869,048 


All  other  States. 


31 

11,939 

215 

11.724 

$19,664,485 

$23,131,682 

$4,749,921 

$301,672 

$4,388,249 

$1,807,410 

$16,574,351 

$24,629,582 


I 


BEPOBT  OF  TAKIFF  BOABB  ON   SCHEDUIiE  K. 


REPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD   ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


2^3 


kll 

m 


The  worsted  industry  in  the  United  States  is  higUy  centralized. 
By  far  the  largest  percentage  of  the  worsted  products  was  produced, 
in  the  order  of  their  importance,  in  the  States  of  Massachusetts, 
Rhode  Island,  and  Pennsylvania.  If  the  worsted  goods  produced  in 
and  near  the  three  cities  of  Lawrence,  Mass.,  Providence,  R.  I.,  and 
Philadelphia,  Pa.,  be  subtracted  from  the  total  products  of  the  woi-sted 
industry,  the  resulting  figure  will  be  comparatively  small.  There  are, 
it  is  true,  numerous  small  worsted  mills  scattered  through  Connecti- 
cut, New  Jersey,  New  York,  and  other  States.  There  are  also 
occasional  large  worsted  mills.  A  good  example  of  tliis  latter 
fact  is  a  worsted  mill  in  Cleveland,  Ohio,  contauaing  a  thousand 
looms;  but  it  is  nevertheless  true  that  the  three  cities  mentioned 
above  are  the  important  centers  of  worsted  production  in  tlie  United 
States.  Massachusetts  shows  the  greatest  actual  increase  in  tlie 
value  of  products  since  1904.  Its  value  of  worsted  products  then  was 
$51,973,944  as  compared  with  $106,099,221  in  1909.  In  1904  the 
value  of  products  in  New  Jersey  was  $1 1 ,925,126  and  this  had  increased 
in  1909  to  $29,641,621.  The  gain  in  this  State  was  largely  due  to  the 
growth  of  a  few  large  concerns  built  by  German  capital. 

Mechanical  equipmeni  of  worsted  mills. — Tlie  macliinerj  used  in  the 
worsted  industry  m  the  United  States  in  1909  is  shown  m  Table  195. 

Table  195. — Machinery  used  i/i  the  worstai  industri/  in  the  United  States  in  1909* 


Table  196. — Materiab  used  in  the  worsted-goods  industry  in  the  United  States,  1909  and 

1899. 


Item. 


Sets  of  cards,  total  number 

Woolen 

Worsted 

Cot  ton 

Producing  spindles,  total  number 

Woolen 

Worsted 

Doubling aJad lirtstingspindles,  totai number 

Woolen 

Worsted 

Cotton 

Looms,  total  number 

Woolen 

Worsted 

Cotton 

Wool-combing  macMncs 


Number. 


2, 
1, 

1,995. 

307. 

1,606, 

81, 

628, 

28, 

596, 

5, 

45, 

6. 

39, 

1, 


389 
702 
557 
130 

622 
850 
(.04 
168 

im 

590 
398 
620 
270 
892 
128 
250 
925 


The  most  important  index  of  the  productive  capacity  of  worsted 
p>i]1.q  is  the  number  of  combing  maciiines.  In  1909  there  were  of 
these  1,925  in  the  United  States;  631  were  reported  from  Massachu- 
setts, 265  from  New  Jersey,  332  from  Pennsylvania,  461  from  Rhode 
Island,  and  the  others  from  various  other  States.  In  1904,  of  the  1,312 
combs  in  this  industry  1,053,  or  80.26  per  cent,  were  of  foreign  manu- 
facture. 

Materiah  used  in  the  worsted  industry. — The  materials  used  in  the 
worsted  industry  in  the  United  States  in  1899  and  1909  are  presented 
in  Table  196. 


Item. 


Total  cost 

Wool,  foreign,  in  condition  purchased: 

Founds 

Cost 

Wool,  domestic,  in  condition  purchased: 

Founds 

Wool,  foreign  and  domestic,  in  scoured  condition,  pounds 

Camel,  alpaca,  and  vicuna  hair: 

Founds 

Cost 

Mohair: 

Pounds 

Cost 

Cotton: 

Founds 

Cost 

Rags,  tailors'  clippings,  etc.: 

Founds 

Cost 

Shoddy,  mungo  and  wool  extract: 

Founds 

Cost 

Wool  waste  and  noils:  ^ 

Founds 

Cost 

Tops,  not  made  in  mill: 

Founds 

Cost 

Yarns,  not  made  in  mill: 
Woolen- 
Founds 

Cost 

Worsted- 
Pounds 

Cost 

Merino  (woolen  and  worsted) — 

Pounds 

Cost 

Cotton- 
Pounds 

Cost 

Silk- 
Pounds 

Cost 

Spun  silk- 
Pounds 

Cost 

All  other  materials  which  are  components  of  the  product,  cost 

Chemicals  and  dyestufFs,  cost 

Fuel,  mill  supplies,  soap,  oil,  and  all  other  materials,  cost 

Materials  made  in  mill  for  use  therein; 

Woolen  yam,  pounds 

Worsted  yam,  pounds 

Merino  yarn  (woolen  and  worsted),  pounds 


1909 


$207,786,936 


1899 


177,075,222 


150, 629, 400 
$47,999,085 

237,088.015 
$61,238,802 
230,580,497 

4,570,129 
11,400,170 

1.945,238 
$652,319 

4,222.667 
$588,990 

2,014,906 
$165,508 

1.-335,882 
$223, 147 

2,699.393 
$833,511 

20,269,307 
$14,201,937 


593,091 
$388,077 

53,327,377 
$50,457,209 

95,636 
$53,589 

22,280,887 
$6,636,433 

108,641 
$601,358 

102,936 

$313,986 

$1,958,040 

$5.4.50,427 

$14, 624, 348 

10, 743,  .304 

76. 457,  .382 

1, 163, 759 


57,263,393 
$15,159,048 

122,714.543 

$29,147,093 
103,338,616 

1,742,573 
$391,. 332 

1,905,967 
$972,207 

5,276,751 

$524,515 


1,807,827 
$303,644 

1,885,867 
$558,494 

5,260,775 

$2,701,582 


2,847,091 
$1,402,189 

18,896.863 
$14, 704, 172 

419,4.34 
$147,891 

13, 420,  .590 
$3,032,039 

26, 418 
$144,971 

47,533 

$166,672 

$168,403 

$2,627,140 

$4,923,830 

(') 
(») 
(') 


Per  cent  of 
increase. 


169.59 


163.05 
210.  U 

93.20 
110.10 
123. 13 

162.26 
257.80 

2.06 
»  32. 90 

»  19.98 
12.29 


126.11 
»  26.51 

43. 14 
49.24 

285.29 
425. €9 


1  79. 17 
1  72. 32 

182.29 
243.15 

I  77. 20 
163.76 

66.02 
118.88 

311.24 
314.81 

116.56 

88.  .30 

1,062.71 

107. 47 

197.01 


I  Decrease. 

«  Does  not  include  camel,  alpaca,  vicuna,  or  mohair  noils. 

»  Figures  not  available. 

The  total  cost  of  materials  used  in  the  worsted  industry  in  1909,  as 
shown  in  Table  196,  was  $207,786,936,  or  an  increase  during  the 
decade  of  169.59  per  cent.  The  amount  of  foreign  wool  used  in  con- 
dition purchased  increased  163.05  per  cent  in  quantity  and  216.64 
per  cent  in  value,  while  the  amount  of  domestic  wool  used  in  condi- 
tion purchased  mcreased  only  93.20  per  cent  in  quantity  and  110.10 
per  cent  in  value.  The  scoured  weignt  of  both  foreign  and  domestic 
wool  used  in  1909  was  230,580,497  pounds,  an  increase  of  123.13  per 
cent  for  the  decade.  The  amount  of  camel,  alpaca,  and  vicuna  hair 
used  increased  during  the  decade  162.26  per  cent  in  quantity  and 


'I  ill 


224 


BEPOBT  OF  TAKIFF  BOAKD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


REPORT  OF  TABTFF  BOAKD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


225 


257.80  per  cent  in  value.  There  was  practicaUy  no  i^c^.^'^,^^*^^ 
amount  of  mohair  used.  The  raw  cotton  consumed  declmed  19.98 
per  cent  in  quantity  and  increased  12.29  ner  cent  m  value.  Over 
against  this  smaU  decrease,  however  should  be  set  the  amount  of 
cotton  yam  consumed  by  the  worsted  mdustry.  The  amount  of  th^ 
used  increased  during  the  decade  66.02  per  cent  m  q^^nUty  aM 
118  88  per  cent  in  value,  a  rate  of  mcrease  smaller  than  that  for  raw 
wool  The  larffe  amount  of  cotton  yam,  as  distmguished  from  raw 
cotton,  used  indicates  that  the  industry  buys  its  cotton  m  the  form 
of  yari  and  does  not  spin  cotton  for  itse  f ,  The  ra^s,  shoddy,  wool 
waste,  etc.,  reported  m  this  table  as  used  m  worsted  mills,  are  used 
in  those  miUs  which  are  predominantly  worsted  but  which  also  make 
some  carded  woolen  goods.  The  quantity  of  tops  not  made  m  mdl 
used  m  1909  was  20,269,307  pounds,  or  an  mcrease  of  285.29  per  cent 
during  the  decade.  The  quantity  of  worsted  yam  made  m  the  miU 
for  uS  therein  was  76,457,382  pounds  in  1909.  In  addition  to  this, 
worsted  miUs  purchased  53,427,377  pounds  ^^  ^^^"^^^^  P"^' rry,^  ... 
Production  ofaU-wool  woven  goods  by  the  worsted  industry.— i  he  toM 
production  of  all-wool  woven  goods  in  the  worsted  mdustry  of  the 
United  States  in  1899  and  1909  is  shown  m  Table  197. 

Table  197  —All-wool  woven  goods  produced  by  the  worsted  industry  in  the  United  States, 

1899  arid  1909. 


Total  square  yards. 
Total  value - 


1909 


Woolen  cloths,  etc.,  for  men's  wear: 

Square  yards 

Value *'" 

Woisted  coatings,  serges,  and  suitings,  for  men's  wear: 

Square  yards 

Woolen  overcoaVingsVcfoakings,  kerseys,  etc.,  for  men's  or  wo- 
men's wear: 
Square  yards 

Worsted  oVercoatings'and  cloaking',  for'men's  or  women's  wear: 
Square  yards 

Wool  dress  gtwl's". etc!  'operaand  similar  flannels, and  otlier  simi- 
lar all-wool  dress  goods: 
Square  yards 

Worsted  dress  goods,  caslimeres,  serges,  etc.,  for  women's  wear, 
and  buntings: 

Square  yards 

Value 

Mohair  dress  goods: 

Square  yards 

Value 

JUl  other: 

Square  yards 

Value 


231,417,399 
SltiO,887,116 


5,740.393 
14,743,903 

114,595,341 
$97,633,617 


1,067.8&1 
51,021,579 

$595,915 


3.540.919 
$2,617,312 


103.811.093 

378,000 
$149,552 

1,828,829 
$1,360,284 


1899 


113,599,033 

$(K),482,528 


3,582,788 
$2,506,918 

50,201,572 
$39,562,773 

1,718,008 
$1,705,646 

16,690 
$7,778 


3,330,974 
$1,598,450 


.')4. 480. 569 
$U,9W,513 


Per  cent  of 
increase, 
1899-1909. 


103.71 
166.01 


275,432 
$114,442 


60.22 
89.  Q8 

128.26 
146.99 


137.84 
140.11 

2,625.94 
7,661.54 

6.62 
63.74 


90.55 
252. 5d 


663.99 
1,068.62 


I  Decrease. 


In  1909  the  worsted  industry  nroduced  231,417^399  squa^^^ 
of  all-wool  woven  goods  valued  at  $160,887,116.  Ihis  snows  an 
LcreLn  103.71  pfr  cent  in  quantity  and  166.01  per  cent  m  vdu^ 
The  carded  woolen  fabrics  reported  in  this  table  were  made  m  mills 
which  are  predominantly  worat^d  but  which  make  m  addition  certain 
Sd  woolen  fabrics.    The  woolen  overcoatmgs,  etc.,  produced 


in  these  mills  declined  decidedly  during  the  decade.  The  most  im- 
portant increase  in  production  during  the  decade  was  in  worsted 
coatings,  serges,  etc.,  for  men's  wear.  These  increased  128.26  per 
cent  in  quantity  and  146.59  per  cent  in  value.  The  largest  relative 
increase  was  in  worsted  overcoatings  and  cloakings,  but  the  quantity 
of  these  is  comparatively  insignificant.  Worsted  dress  goods  in- 
creased 90.55  per  cent  in  quantity  and  252.56  per  cent  in  value. 

Production  of  cotton  warp  woven  goods  in  the  worsted  industry. — The 
production  of  cotton  mixed  and  cotton-warp  woven  goods  produced 
by  the  worsted  industry  in  the  United  States  in  1899  and  1909  is 
shown  in  Table  198. 

Table  198. — Cotton-mixed  and  cotton-warp  woven  goods  produced  by  the  worsted  industry 

in  the  United  States,  1899  and  1909. 


1909 


Cottor-mixed  woven  goods  and  goods  woven  on  cotton  warps, 
with  weft  partly  or  wholly  of  wool,  worsted,  or  hair: 

Total  square  yards 

Total  value 

Cotton-mixed  woven  goods: 

Square  yards 

Value 

Wool-filling  cassimeres,  doeskins,  jeans,  tweeds,  etc.,  and 
other  cotton-warp  goods,  for  men's  wear: 

Square  yards 

Value 

Worsted -filling  cassimeres,  doeskins,  jeans,  tweeds,  etc.,  and 
other  cotton-warp  goods,  for  men's  wear: 

Square  yards 

Value 

Worsted-filliDg  dress  goods,  delaines,  cashmeres,  etc.,  and 
other  stuffs,  for  women's  wear: 

Square  yards 

Value 

Linings,  Italian  cloths,  and  lastings: 

Square  yards 

Value 

JUl  other  cotton-warp  goods: 

Square  yards 

Value ~ 


123,652,993 
$40,320,724 


3,658,118 
$1,617,890 


1.114,720 
$822,738 


25,903,081 
$13,796,737 


64,468.422 
$14,397,359 

26,514.518 

$8,767,464 

1,994,134 
$718,536 


1899 


62,223,766 
$19,895,061 


2,662.120 
$1,562,548 


2,073,990 
$1,356,735 


10,540,927 
$6,401,491 


39,611,517 
$8,466,106 

6,987,330 
$1,953,139 

347,882 
$155,042 


Per  cent  of 
increase, 
1899-1909. 


98.72 
102.67 


37.41 

3.54 


»  46. 25 
>39.36 


145.  74 
115.52 


62.75 
72.42 

279. 47 
348.89 

473.22 
363.45 


1  Decrease. 


The  amount  of  cotton-mixed  woven  goods,  i.  e.,  goods  made  from 
merino  yarn,  produced  by  the  worsted  industry  is  comparatively 
small.  The  total  production  of  cotton-warp  worsted  goods,  including 
the  small  amount  of  cotton-mLxed  goods,  was,  in  1909,  123,652,993 
square  yards,  or  an  increase  of  98.72  per  cent  during  the  decade,  and 
valued  at  $40,320,724,  or  an  increase  of  102.67  per  cent  during  the 
decade.  The  worsted  fabrics  with  wool  filling  show  a  decline,  but  the 
worsted  cotton-warp  fabrics  with  worsted  filling  increased  during  ^he 
decade  145.74  per  cent  in  quantity  and  115.52  per  cent  in  value. 
Worsted-filled  dress  goods  and  linings  of  various  Kinds  also  show  a 
v«ry  decided  increase. 

THE   WOOLEN   INDUSTRY   IN  THE   UNITED   STATES. 

Development  and  organization. — The  manufacture  of  carded  woolens 
began  as  a  household  industiy  among  the  earliest  settlers  in  America. 
Power  carding  machines  were  first  introduced  in  1 794,  power  spin- 
ning between  1810  and  1820,  and  power  weaving  between  1820  and 

32080"'— H.  Doc.  342,  62-2,  vol  1 15 


226 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  OK  SCHEDULE  K. 


1830.  The  hand-spinning  ^lenny  and  hand-power  loom,  however, 
continued  in  common  use  until  the  Civil  War.  Fiior  to  1859  practically 
all  fabrics  were  made  by  the  carded  woolen  process,  and  the  country 
was  covered  with  a  large  number  of  small  mills  which  supplied 
local  needs  only.  Tlie  prmcipal  fabric  manufactured  during  the  first 
half  of  the  nineteenth  century  w^as  broadcloth,  but  in  1840  tne  manu- 
facture of  cassimeres  had  been  begun  on  power  looms,  and  by  1859 
these  had  largely  superseded  broadcloths.  In  1859,  when  the  worsted 
industry  had  hardly  begun  to  exist,  there  were  1,260  woolen  mills, 
with  a  product  valued  at  $61,894,986.  The  extraordinary  demand 
for  woolen  fabrics  to  supply  the  armies  during  the  Civil  War  caused 
the  industry  to  expand  rapidly,  and  by  1869  there  were  2,891  mills, 
with  a  product  valued  at  $155,405,358.  Since  that  time  the  number 
of  woolen  mills  has  steadily  decreased,  and  although  from  1869  to 
1879  the  industry  a  httle  more  than  held  its  own  in  value  of  products, 
the  decade  between  1879  and  1889  marked  the  partial  displacement 
of  woolen  fabrics  by  the  more  popular  worsteds.  By  1889  the  value 
of  output  had  fallen  to  $133,577,977.  ^  Many  small  mills  throughout 
the  country  were  forced  out  of  business  by  the  products  of  the  large 
worsted  and  woolen  mills  of  the  East,  and  many  large  w^oolen  mills 
abandoned  the  manufacture  of  carded  woolens  and  took  up  the  weav- 
ing of  worsteds.  Since  1889  the  output  of  the  carded  woolen  mills 
has  generally  declined,  with  an  occasional  revival,  such  as  that  of 
1904,  due  either  to  the  low  prices  of  rags,  shoddy,  waste,  noils,  and 
high-shrinking  wook,  or  to  tne  popular  demand  for  the  rough-finish 
cheviots,  tweeds,  and  cassimeres.  The  decline  of  this  industry  finds 
its  contrast  in  the  increase  in  the  output  of  worsted  mills,  and  the 
fundamental  reason  for  the  decKne  on  the  one  hand  and  increase  on 
the  other  is  the  change  in  fashion.  Table  199  presents  a  comparative 
summary  of  the  progress  of  the  woolen  industry  in  the  United  States 
from  1859  to  1909. 

Table  199. — Comparative  summary  of  woolen  goods  industry  in  the  Untied  States,  1859 

to  1909, 


C«nsus  of— 


1904 


Number  ol  estab- 
lishments  

Capital 

Number  of  salaried 
ofBcials,  clerks, 
etc 

Salaries 

Avwage  number  of 
wage  earners 

Totalwages 

Miacellaneooa  ex- 
penses  

Cost  of  materials 
used 

Value  of  products.. 

Nimiber  of  spindles 

Number  of  looms. 


587 

8120,317,070 


2.111 
$3,322,068 

52,183 
122,576,175 

16,530,031 


$65,651,634 
1107.118,858 
1,663,310 
27,262 


792 
$140,302,488 

2.477 
$3,430,855 

72,747 
$28,827,556 


$8,218,766 

$87,830,825 

$142,196,668 

2,129.727 

32,957 


1800 


1889 


1,035 


1.311 


$124, 386, 262  $130, 989, 940 


2,246 
$2,934,048 

68.893 
$24,757,006 

$7,268,634 

$71,011,956 

$118,430,158 

1,906,581 

34,881 


12.436 
J  $2,339,737 

76,915 
$26,139,194 

$8,402,623 

$82,270,335 
$133,577,977 
1,815,380 
39,118 


1S79 


1869 


1,990 
$96,095,564 


(»> 

86,504 
$25,836,392 

(») 

$100,845,611 

$160,606,721 

1,756,746 

35,634 


2,891 
$96,824,531 


1,260 
$30,862,654 


(») 
(*) 

80,053 
$26,877,575 

(») 

$96,432,601 
$155,405,358 
1,845.496 
84,183 


1859 


(*) 
{«) 

41,360 
$9,610,254 

(») 

$36,586,287 
$61,894,980 

<'^ 
(« 


t  Includes  proprietors  and  firm  members,  with  tbek  salaries;  number  only  reported  in  1900  and  1906, 
but  not  included  in  this  table. 
t  Not  reported  separately. 
•  Not  reported. 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


227 


The  capital  invested  in  the  carded  woolen  industry  increased  be- 
tween 1859  and  1869,  220.2  per  cent;  between  1869  and  1879  it 
decUned  2.8  per  cent;  between  1879  and  1889  it  increased  again  36.3 
per  cent;  between  1889  and  1899  it  decreased  5  per  cent,  and  between 
1899  and  1909  it  declined  still  further  3.3  per  cent. 

The  total  wages  paid  in  the  carded  woolen  industry  increased 
between  1859  and  1869,  179.7  per  cent;  between  1869  and  1879 
decUned  3.9  per  cent;  between  1879  and  1889  increased  1.2  per  cent; 
between  1889  and  1899  decreased  5.3  per  cent,  and  between  1899  and 
1909  decreased  8.8  per  cent. 

In  each  case  the  census  of  1904  shows  an  increase  over  the  previous 
census.  In  fact,  the  output  during  that  year  of  the  cardea  woolen 
mills  was  greater  than  in  any  census  since  that  of  1879. 

Distribution  of  the  woolen  industry. — The  distribution  of  the  woolen 
industry  in  the  United  States,  by  States,  in  1909  is  shown  in  Table 
200. 

Table  200.— Woolen  industry  m  the  United  States,  by  States,  1909. 


Item. 


Number  of  establishments 

Persons  employed,  number 

Salaried  employees,  number 

Wage  earners  (average  number). . 

Capital 

Expenses,  total 

Services 

Salaries 

Wages 

Miscellaneous  expenses 

Materials,  total  cost 

Products,  total  value 


United  States. 


587 

54,294 

2,111 

52,183 

$120,317,070 

$98,078,908 

$25,897,243 

$3,322,068 

$22,575,175 

$6,530,031 

$65,651,634 

$107,118,858 


Connecticut. 


36 

4,010 

145 

3,865 

$8,479,116 

$7,545,726 

$2,031,948 

$270,265 

$1,761,683 

$337,770 

$5,176,008 

$8,447,886 


Maine. 


55 

6,775 

225 

6,550 

$15,861,086 

$11,559,949 

$3,199,845 

$323,650 

$2,876,195 

$707,293 

$7,652,811 

$12,803,297 


Massachusetts. 


94 

15,933 

480 

15,453 

$32,020,912 

$29,922,365 

$8,108,437 

$910, 786 

$7,197,651 

$1,979,832 

$19,834,096 

$32,216,705 


Item. 


Number  of  establishments 

Persons  employed,  number 

Salaried  employees,  number 

Wage  earners  (average  number). 

Capital.. : 

Expenses,  total : 

Services 

Salaries 

Wages 

Miscellaneous  expenses 

Materials,  total  cost 

Products,  total  value 


New  Hamj)- 
shire. 


33 

•   3,825 

150 

3,675 

$9,494,518 

$7,084,297 

$1,840,137 

$187, 186 

$1,652,951 

$452,633 

$4,791,527 

$7,772,921 


New  York. 


30 
2,325 

72 
2,253 

$5,260,575 
$4,398,956 
$1,183,418 

$134,925 
$1,048,493 

$285,840 
$2,929,698 
$4,945,364 


Pennsyl- 
vania. 


104 

7,207 

333 

6,874 

$15,811,911 

$14,732,234 

$3,410,002 

$466,829 

$2,943,173 

$1,096,884 

$10,225,348 

$16,033,077 


Rhode 
Island. 


21 

2,156 

63 

2,093 

$5,052,949 

$4,310,462 

$1,162,383 

$115, 180 

$1,047,203 

$247,367 

$2,900,712 

$4,731,192 


All  other 
States. 


214 
12,063 

643 
11,420 

$28,336,003 

$18,524,919 

$4,961,073 

$913,247 

$4,047,826 

$1,422,412 

$12,141,434 

$20,168,416 


The  carded-woolen  industry  is  much  more  widely  distributed  than 
the  worsted  industry.  The  States  in  the  order  of  their  importance  in 
tlie  value  of  woolen  products  produced  in  1909  were  Massachusetts, 
Pennsylvania,  Maine,  Connecticut,  New  Hampshire,  New  York,  and 
Rhode  Island. 

Mechanical  equipment  of  woolen  rmUs. — The  machinery  used  in  the 
carded-woolen  industry  in  the  United  States  in  1909  is  shown  in  Table 
201.  The  important  things  to  note  in  this  table  are  the  number  of 
sets  of  cards  and  the  producing  woolen  spindles.  The  combs  and 
worsted  and  cotton  spindles  reported  in  the  table  show  that  in  some 
of  tlie  carded-woolen  mills  some  worsted  and  cotton  products,  prob- 
ably cotton  warp  for  wool  or  worsted  filled  goods,*are  produced. 


BEPOKT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDTH.E  K. 


Table  Wl.—Maekinery  used  in  the  woolen  industry  in  the  United  States  in  1909. 


It«m. 


Wool-€ombing  machines,  total  number 

Sets  of  cards,  total  number 

Woolen 

Worsted 

Cotton ; - 

Producing  spindles,  total  number 

Woolen 

Worsted 

Cotton -.-•:.-■-••■. v  ■  •  • 

Doubling  and  twisting  spmdies,  total  number. 

Woolen 

WOTSted 

Cotton 

Jjooms,  total  number 

Woolen 

Worsted 

Cotton 


Number. 


1, 
1, 


63 

3,92ft 

3,798 

24 

104 

557,572 

477,355 

48,79ft 

31,421 

105,738 

80,414 

20,303 

5,022 

27,2G2 

26,  soft 

359 

97 


Materials  used  in  iU  woolen  industry. —The  materials  used  in  the 
carded-woolen  industry  in  the  United  States  in  1899  and  1909  are 
shown  in  Table  202. 

Table  2G2.~Matenal8  uad  in  the  woolen  goods  industry  in  the  United  States,  ^909  and 

1899. 


Item. 


Per  cent  of 
decrease. 


Total  cost. 


Wool,  foreign,  in  condition  purchased: 

Pounds 

f»0g* 

Woo!,  d(wnestie,  in  condition  purchased: 

Pounds 

r^-jgt  

Wool,  foreign  ind  doinestic,  in  scoured  condition,  pounds. . . 
Camel ,  al  paca,  and  vicuna  nair  and  mohair: 

Pounds 

Cost 

All  other  animial  hair  and  fur: 

Pounds 

Cost 

Cotton: 

Pounds 

£»|jg'(;  ^,_.. 

Rags,  tailors' dippings,  etc.: 

Pounds 

Cost - - 

Shoddy,  mungo,  and  wool  extract: 

Pounds 

Cost 

Wool  waste  and  noils: 

Pounds 

Camel,  aipa(»V  vicuna,  and  mohair  noils: 

Pounds 

Cost 

Tops: 

Pounds 

OosI " 

1  Figures  not  available. 


13.523,687 
$3,649,504 

73,514,264 

$23,779,436 

60,126,473 

1,290,055 
$346,634 

16,429,806 
$848,178 

15,801,394 
$1,926,419 

38,387,554 
$2,691,458 

20,118,305 
$2,835,067 

23,380,298 
$6,590,130 

962,877 
$92,772 

558,938 
$412,590 

sXjQcnnMi* 


22,521,954 
$4,598,624 

127,678,662 

$29,899,066 

89,366,903 

1,355,426 
$494,168 

19,679,181 
$1,090,796 

34,967,959 
$2,755,485 

0) 
$2,817,663 

31.228,940 
$3, 767, 192 

13,473,154 
$3,249,982 

299,471 
$70,037 


305,333 
$163,iK>4 


39.95 
20.64 

42.42 
20.47 
32.72 

4.82 
29.86 

16.51 
22.24 

54.81 
30.09 


4.48 

35.58 
24.74 

2  73.53 
•102.77 

«21.17 
132.46 

«83.05 
s  151. 63 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD   ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


229 


Table  202. — Materials  u^ed  in  the  woolen  goods  industry  in  the  United  States,  1909  and 

J599— Continued. 


Item. 


Vams  purchased: 
Woolen — 

Pounds 

Cost 

Worsted- 
Pounds  

Cost 

Merino  (woolen  and  worsteds- 
Pounds  

Cost 

Cotton- 
Pounds 

Cost 

Silk  and  spun  silk- 
Pounds  

Cost 

All  other  materials  which  are  components  of  the  product,  cost- 

Cliemieals  aiid  dyestuffs,  cost 

Fuel,  mill  supplies,  soap,  oil,  and  all  other  materials,  cost 

Materials  made  in  mill  for  use  therein: 

Woolen  yam ,  pounds 

AVorsted  yarn,  pounds 

Merino  yam,  pounds 

Cotton  yarn,  pounds 

Shoddy,  pounds 


1909 


338,131 
$170, 193 

5.821,394 
$5,576,492 

1.876,073 
$264,867 

16,888,501 
$3, 855, 752 

70,959 

$227, 319 

$1,804,739 

$3,370,501 

$7,209,493 

80,761,458 
3,097,658 

30,124,141 
2,639,899 

31,021,323 


1899 


3,059,771 
$1,272,954 

6,214.076 
$4,791,079 

3,215.245 
$516,636 

21.922.136 
$3,782,240 

57,964 

$218,146 

$600,383 

$3,968,020 

$6,955,522 

<•? 
(«) 

(») 
2, 783, 739 
35,626,165 


Per  cent  of 
decrease. 


88.95 
86.63 

6.32 
116.39 

41.65 

48.73 

22.9ft 
U.94 

'22.42 

»4.20 

»  200. 60 

15.06 

13.65 


5.17 
12.93 


I  Increase. 


2  Figures  not  available. 


The  quantity  and  value  of  almost  all  important  raw  materials, 
except  wool  waste  and  noils,  used  by  the  woolen  industry  decUned 
between  1899  and  1909.  The  amount  of  foreign  wool  in  condition 
purchased  used  in  1909  was  13,523,687  pounds  and  the  amount  of 
domestic  wool  in  condition  purchased  used  was  73,514,264  pounds. 
The  scoured  weight  of  this  foreign  and  domestic  wool  was  60,126,473 
pounds,  which  is  a  decline  of  32.72  per  cent  in  comparison  with  1899. 
Cow  hair  and  similar  animal  hairs  used  in  1909  amounted  to  16,429,808 
pounds.  This  was  practically  all  spun  into  yarn  and  sold  to  the  car- 
pet industry.  The  cotton  used  shows  a  decline  during  the  decade  of 
54.81  per  cent  in  quantity.  Thirty-eight  million  tliree  hundred  and 
eighty-seven  thousand  five  hundred  and  fifty-four  pounds  of  rags, 
tailor  clippings,  etc.,  were  used  in  makmg  31,021,323  pounds  of 
shoddy  made  for  use  in  the  mill.  The  amount  of  shoddy  purchased 
m  1909  was  20,118,305  pounds,  or  a  decrease  of  35.58  per  cent,  and 
the  amount  of  wool  waste  and  noils  purchased  was  23,380,289  pounds, 
or  an  increase  of  73.53  per  cent.  It  should  be  noted  that  wool  as  a 
raw  material  is  not  as  important  in  the  carded  woolen  industry  as 
m  the  worsted  industry,  and  that  shoddy,  noils,  waste,  and  other 
materials  are  extensively  used.  The  large  amount  of  woolen  and 
merino  yam  made  in  the  mill  for  use  therein  and  the  comparatively 
small  amount  of  yams  purchased,  indicate  that  the  mills  produce  the 
yarn  which  they  consume.  Cotton  yam  used,  however,  is  almost 
entirely  purchased  from  cotton  spinners. 

All-wool  woven  fabrics  produced  hy  the  woolen  industry. — All-wool 
woven  goods  produced  by  the  woolen  industry  in  the  United  States 
m  1899  and  1909  are  shown  in  Table  203. 


230 


BEPOKT  OP  TAKIFF  BOABD  ON   SCHEDUIiE  K. 


EEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD   ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


281 


Table  20X-All-wool  woven  goods  produced  by  the  woolm  industry  in  the  United  Statm, 

1899  and  1909, 


Total  square  yards. 
Total  value 


Wool  cloths,  etc.,  for  men's  wear: 

Square  yards 

Worsted  coatings,'  sergesj  and  suitings  for  men's  wear: 

Square  yarm 

Value  ••• - > 

Woolen  overcoatings,  cloakings,  kerseys,  etc.,  for  men  s   or 

women's  wear: 

Square  yards 

Value       ....,......••.•--•- .....-- 

Worsted  overcoatings  and  cloakings  for  men's  or  women  s  wear: 
Square  yards ■■• 

Wool  dress  goods*  etc'.,'  opera  and  simUar'flannels,  and  other  simi- 
lar all-wool  dress  goods: 
Square  yards 

Worsted  di^ 'goods,' ©adimeres,  serges,  etc.,  for  women's  wear, 
and  buntings: 
Square  jrards 

Value -.; 

Carriage  cloths  of  all  weights: 

Square  3rards 

Flanneb  for  underwear: 

Square  yards 

Value 

Blankets: 

Square  yards 

Value 

All  other 

Square  yards 

Value 


IwW 


1890 


91,526,966 

$58,966,651 


35,103,586 
$24,547,156 

5,059,728 
$4,369,536 


13,629,906 
$10,209,277 

199,444 
$225,773 


25,550,037 
$13,788,186 


1,990,256 
$1,165,422 

1,246,423 
$623,981 

3,399.913 
$952,978 

4,402,330 
$2,563,019 

686,343 
$541,323 


102,760,660 
$57,274,641 


Per  cent  of 

increase, 
1899-1909. 


30. 715, G38 
$20,136,951 

3,829,107 
$3,450,777 


17,011,18« 
$14,426,064 

860,443 
$559,612 


30,273,238 
$11,378,030 


3,231,517 
$1,321,879 

1,220,408 
$006,999 

9.324,720 
$2,344,559 

5,266,643 
12,274,774 

1.027,769 
$684,996 


1  10.93 
2.95 


11.03 
21.90 

32.14 

26.62 


119.88 
»29.23 

176.82 
159.66 


U5.57 
21.01 


I  38. 41 
111.84 

2.13 
U0.48 

163.54 
159.35 

116.41 
12.67 

18.90 
120.97 


I  Decrease. 


The  production  of  all-wool  woven  goods  by  the  woolen  industry  m 
the  Umted  States  declined  10.93  per  cent  in  quantity  and  increased 
2.95  per  cent  in  value.  There  was  an  increase  in  the  production  of 
wool  cloths  for  men's  wear  of  11.03  per  cent  m  quaxitity  and  21.90 
per  cent  in  value.  The  production  of  woolen  ^Jf  ^^^^^^f '  $^^^^^^^^ 
Stc,  however,  decUned  19.88  per  cent  m  quantity  and  29.23  per  cent 
in  value  The  production  of  wool  dress  goods  dechned  1 5.57  per  cent 
m  quantity,  but  increased  21.01  per  cent  m  value. 

CoUon  mixed  woven  goods  pr^uce<i.---The,  production  of  cotton 
mixed  woven  goods  produced  by  the  woolen  industry  m  the  Umted 
States  in  1899  and  1909  is  shown  in  Table  204. 


Table  204. — Cotton-mixed  woven  goods  produced  by  the  woolen  industry  in  the  Unitm 

States,  1899  and  1909. 


Total  square  yards. 
Total  value 


Union  tweeds,  cassimeres,  cheviots,  etc.,  for  men's  wear: 

Square  yards 

Value 

Overcoatings  and  cloakings: 

Sq  uare  yards 

Value 

Sackings,  tricots,  dress  goods  for  women's  wear,  and  opera  and 
similar  flannels: 

Square  yards 

Value , 

Flannels  for  underwear: 

Square  yards 

Value '. 

Blankets: 

Square  yards 

Value [[[\ 

All  other: 

Square  yards 

Vaiue '' 


1909 


33,795,633 
$12,710,083 


1809 


54,672.450 
$21,549,148 


15,381,479 
$6,241,809 

4,242,245 
$2,342,505 


4,246,914 
$1,721,752 

7,063,572 
$1,308,369 

l,n7,758 
$650,714 

1,143,665 
$444,934 


Per  cent 

of  increase, 

1899-1909. 


138.19 
141.03 


29,588,901 
$12,815,389 

148.02 
151.29 

5,675,464 
$3,164,749 

125.2.5 
125.98 

10,105,548 
$3,341,341 

• 

»67.97 
148.47 

6,217,094 
$1,284,578 

13,62 
1.85 

1,530,696 
$561,649 

12.22 
15.86 

1,554,747 
$381,442 

126.44 
16.65 

>  Decrease. 

The  production  of  cotton-mixed  woven  goods  in  the  carded  woolen 
mdustry  declined  during  the  decade  38.19  per  cent  in  quantity  and 
41.02  per  cent  in  value.  The  products  aJl  show  a  decHne  except 
flannels  for  underwear  and  blankets,  which  show  slight  increases. 

Cotton-warp  woven  goods  produced. — The  production  of  cotton-warp 
woven  goods  by  the  woolen  industry  in  the  United  States  in  1899 
and  1909  is  shown  in  Table  205. 

Table  205.— Cotton-warp  woven  goods  produced  by  the  woolen  industry  of  the  United 

States,  1899  and  1909. 


Total  square  yards.. 
Total  value 


Wool-fllhng  cassimeres,  doeskins,  jeans,  tweeds,  etc.,  and  other 
cotton-warp  goods,  for  men's  wear: 

Square  yards 

Value "]] 

Woreted-fiUing  cassimeres,  doeskins,' jeans,' twwds,  etc.,' jm^ 
otner  cotton-warp  goods,  for  men's  wear: 

Square  yards 

Value 

Wool-fiHingovercoatings'and'cloakings: 

Squareyards 

Value 

Wo<g-fiUing  dre^  goods,'an'd'  si'mi'lar'goods,'  aiid  repe'lients: 

Value -'.'................. 

Domett  flannels  and  shirtinas: 

Squareyards 

Value 

Cotton-warp  blankets: 

Squareyards 

Value 

Horse  blankets:    

Squareyards 

Value 

Carriage  robes:  

Squareyards 

,^  Value 

Another:  

Squareyards 

Value 


1909 


90,351,206 
$23,563,020 


1899 


Per  cent  of 
increase, 
1899-1909. 


93,316,938 
$24,105,286 


44,130,146 
$11,284,582 


3,317,171 
$1,212,344 

1,914,609 
$651,795 

12.268,822 
$2,587,274 

4,571,765 
$911,967 

8,903,680 
$2,505,409 

4,197.932 
$1,674,509 

2,882,171 
$1,376,595 

8,164,910 
$1,358,545 


35,086,459 
$9,667,803 


2,122,792 
$866,017 

3,917,498 
$1,430,430 

7,149.016 
$1,735,446 

4,555,013 
$976,465 

11,107,104 
$2,241,342 

5,702.315 
$1,252,824 

1,250,233 
$815,233 

22,426,506 
$5,119,726 


»3.18 

12.25 


25.78 
16.72 


56.26 

1  51. 13 
154.43 

71.62 
49.08 

.37 

16.53 

U9.84 
11.78 

»26.38 
33.66 

130.53 

68.86 

163.59 
173.4A 


^Decrease. 


ill 


232 


lEPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  OH  SCHEDULE  K. 


Table  205,  wliile  showing  in  general  a  decline  in  the  production  of 
cotton-warp  woolen  goods,  shows  some  noticeable  increases.  Woolen- 
filled  cassimeres,  etc.,  for  men's  wear  increased  25.78  per  cent  in 
quantity  and  16.72  per  cent  in  value.  Worsted-filled  cassimeres  for 
men's  wear  increased  56.26  per  cent  in  quantity  and  39.99  per  cent  in 
value.  Wool-filled  dress  goods  increased  71.62  per  cent  in  quantity 
and  49.08  per  cent  in  value. 

THE  CABPET  AND  BUG  INDU8TBY  IN   THE  UNITED  STATES. 

Development  and  organisation. — ^The  carpet  industry  in  the  United 
States  is  as  important  as  in  any  country  in  the  world.  The  principal 
looms  which  contributed  to  the  making  of  carpets  by  macliinery  were 
invented  by  Americans.  Carpet  weaving  emerged  from  the  hand 
loom  stage  m  1844  when  Erasmus  B.  Bigdow,  of  Boston,  invented  a 
power  loom  for  weaving  ingrain  carpets  and  later  on  invented  a 
power  loom  for  weaving  pile  carpets.  Power  looms  for  Axminsters 
were  not  put  into  operation  until  1867,  and  Smyrnas  were  not  woven 
by  power  until  1889.  Power  looms  were  in  operation  in  New  York 
and  New  England  before  1870,  but  the  transition  from  hand  looms  in 
Philadelphia,  the  most  important  center,  did  not  begin  until  1873. 
Practically  all  carpets  now  made  in  the  United  States  are  made  on 
power  looms. 

In  1849  the  census  reported  116  carpet  mills,  with  products  valued 
at  $5,401,234.  The  development  of  this  industry  has  been  rapid, 
especially  since  1859.  In  1869  the  value  of  the  products  from  215 
mills  was  $21,761,573.  From  1869  to  1889  there  was  a  steady 
decline  in  the  number  of  establishments,  owinff  to  the  increase  in  the 
size  of  the  producing  unit,  but  the  value  of  the  output  increased  so 
that  in  1899  it  was  $48,192,351.  In  1909  the  value  of  the  product  had 
further  increased  to  $71,188,152. 

A  Httle  over  40  per  cent  of  the  woolen  and  worsted  yam  used  by 
the  carpet  and  rug  industry  in  the  United  States  in  1909  was  pur- 
chased from  spinning  mOls  classified  with  the  woolen  and  worsted 
industries. 

A  comparative  summary  of  the  carpet  and  rug  industry  in  the 
United  States  since  1859  is  presented  in  Table  206. 

Table  206. — Comparative  sumrmary  of  carpet  and  rug  industry  in  the  United  Statetj  185$ 

to  1909. 


Number  of  establislmieiits 

Capital 

Number  of  salaried  offi- 
cials, clerks,  etc. 

Salaries 

Average  number  (tf  wage 
eamars 

Total  wages 

Ifjscellaneoiu  expenses . . . 

Cdst  of  material  s  used .... 

Vahie  of  products 

Number  of  spmdles. 

Number  of  looms 


Census  of— 


1900 


139 
175,627,010 

1,265 
12,209,042 


1904 


33,307 

$15,536,050113 

f6. 008, 014 

139,458,306 

171,188,152 

252,096 

12,005 


1899 


139 
156,781,074 

1,023 
11,396,691 


133 
144,449,299 

687 
1881,396 


33,221    28,411 
,724,233  $11,121,383 


$4,162,146 

$37,947,954 

$61,586,433 

255,347 

13,853 


1889 


173 

$38,206,842 

385 
» $510,857 

28,736 

$11,122,259 

$2,751,879  $1,819,441 

$27, 228, 719  $28, 644, 905 

$47,770,193 

206,858 

11,235 


$48,192,351 
200,206 
12,511 


1879 


1869 


195 

$21,468,587 


(«) 

20,371 
$6,835,218 

(«) 
$18,984,877^13 
$31,792,802 

115,109 
7,252 


215  213 

$12,540,750|$4,721,768 


12,098 
$4,681,718^1 

(») 
,577,993 
$21,761,573 

(») 
5,426 


1859 


6,681 

(') 
$4,417,96$ 
$7,857,636 


1  Includes  proprietors  and  firm  members,  with  tbeir  salaries;  number  only  reported  in  1000  and  1905, 
but  not  included  in  this  table. 
«  Not  reported  separately. 
»  Not  reported.  ^ 


I 


BEPORT  OF  TABIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


233 


The  capital  invested  in  the  carpet  and  rug  industry  in  the  United 
States  hfus  increased  steadily  since  1859.  During  the  decade  between 
1859  and  1869  it  increased  165.6  per  cent;  between  1869  and  1879, 
71.2  per  cent;  between  1879  and  1889,  78  per  cent;  between  1889 
and  1899,  16.3  per  cent;  and  between  1899  and  1909,  70.1  per  cent. 

The  total  amount  of  wages  paid  also  increased,  but  generally  not 
so  much  as  capital.  They  increased  between  1859  and  1869, 202.9  per 
cent;  between  1869  and  1879,  46  per  cent;  between  1879  and  1889, 
62.7  per  cent;  between  1889  and  1899  the  increase  was  practically 
nothing,  and  between  1899  and  1909  the  increase  was  39.7  per  cent. 

The  cost  of  materials  used  for  the  first  few  decades  under  review 
did  not  increase  as  fast  as  wages,  but  since  1899  they  have  increased 
not  only  faster  than  wages  but  faster  than  the  value  of  product. 
Between  1859  and  1869  the  cost  of  materials  increased  207.3  per 
cent;  between  1869  and  1879,  39.8  per  cent;  between  1879  and  1889, 
50.9  per  cent;  between  1889  and  1899  there  was  a  decrease  of  4.9 
per  cent;  between  1899  and  1909  the  increase  was  44.9  per  cent. 

Distribution  of  the  carpet  industry. — The  distribution  of  the  carpet 
industry  in  1909  in  the  United  States,  by  States,  is  presented  in 
Table  207.  ^ 

Table  201.— Carpet  and  rug  industry  in  the  United  States,  by  States,  1909. 


Item. 


Number  of  establishments 

Persons  employed,  ninnber 

Salaried  employees,  number.. 

Wage  earners,  average  number 

Capital 

Expenses,  total 

Services 

Salaries. 

Wages. 

Miscellaneous  expenses 

Materials,  total  cost 

Products,  total  value 


United 
States. 


$75, 
$62, 
$17, 
$2, 
$15, 

$39, 
$71, 


139 

34,572 

1,265 

33,307 

627,010 

206,414 

745,092 

209,042 

536,050 

003,014 

458,308 

188, 152 


Massacbu* 

setts. 

New  York. 

Pennsyl- 
vania. 

All  other 
Statfss. 

11 

16 

93 

19 

6,248 

12,261 

11,970 

4,093 

294 

363 

460 

148 

5,954 

11,898 

11,510 

3,945 

$11,450,0% 

$27,527,617 

$24,720,792 

$11,928,505 

$11,202,188 

$21,680,151 

$22,632,265 

$6,691,810 

$3,229,050 

$6,556,714 

$5,931,545 

$2,027,783 

$465,787 

$686,416 

$762,270 

$294,569 

$2,763,263 

$5,870,298 

$5,169,275 

$1,733,214 

$472,028 

$1,808,265 

$2,052,422 

$670,299 

$7,501,110 

$13,315,172 

$14,648,298 

$3,993,728 

$12,811,981 

$25,606,262 

$24,879,232 

$7,890,677 

In  Pennsylvania,  which  until  1909  had  always  been  the  leading 
State  m  carpet  manufacture,  the  value  of  the  products  dechned  from 
$27,120,311  in  1904  to  $24,879,232  in  1909.  New  York  with  16  miUs 
mcre^ed  its  output  from  $19,404,133  in  1904  to  $25,606,262  in  1909. 
New  York  leads  now  in  the  number  of  persons  employed,  total  wages 
paid,  and  total  value  of  products.  Pennsylvania,  however,  leads  in 
the  cost  of  materials  used. 

Mechanical  equipment  of  the  carpet  industry. — Table  208  shows  the 
machinery  used  in  the  carpet  industry  of  the  United  States  in  1909. 

Table  20S.— Machinery  used  in  the  carpet  and  rug  industry  in  the  United  States  in  1909, 


Item. 


Wool-combing  machines,  total  number 

Cards,  number  of  sets 

Woolen 

Worsted "'.'.'.'.. 

Cotton 

Producing  spindles,  total  number 

Wooloi 

Worsted '..'.'.".' 

Cotton 

Bonbling  and  twisting  spindles,  total  numbo-' 
Carpet  and  rug  looms,  total  number 


Nimiber. 


132 

745 

456 

180 

109 

211,472 

97,298 

95,046 

19,128 

40,624 

12,006 


234 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


BEPOET  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


235 


The  number  of  carpet  and  rug  looms  in  the  United  States  in  1909 
ia  reported  here  as  12,005.  Until  recently,  the  loom  has  been  a  fairly 
good  index  of  the  productive  capacity  of  carpet  mills,  but  the  ten- 
dency to  use  wide  looms,  in  the  fabrication  of  seamless  rugs  has 
detracted  from  their  value  in  this  connection,  for,  as  the  loom  becomes 
wider,  the  products  produced  by  it  increase  in  value,  yet  the  loom 
itself  only  counts  as  one  unit  in  the  statistics.  Five  thousand  six 
hundred  and  thirty-seven  looms  of  those  reported  in  the  table  were 
in  Pennsylvania,  and  they  include  a  number  of  ingrain  carpet  looms 
which  were  idle  a  part  of  the  year.  Three  thousand  two  hundred 
and  thirty-eight  looms  were  reported  from  New  York,  and  they  pro- 
duced a  value  of  product  greater  than  the  5,637  looms  reported  for 
Pennsylvania. 

Materials  used  in  the  carpet  industrtf, — The  materials  used  in  the 
carpet  industry  in  the  United  States  in  1899  and  1909  are  shown  in 
Table  209. 

Table  209. — Materials  vscdin  the  carpet  and  rug  industry  in  the  United  States,  1899  and 

1909. 


Item. 


Total  cost. 


Wool,  foreign  and  domestic.  In  condition  purcliaaed: 

Pounds 

Cost 

Wool,  forelra  and  domestic.  In  scoured  condition,  pounds. 

Animal  hair:  * 

Pounds 

Cost 

Raw  cotton: 

Pounds 

Cost 

Bags,  tailors'  clippings,  etc.: 

Pounds 

Coat 

Shoddy,  mungo,  and  wool  extract: 

Pounds 

Cost 

Wool  waste  and  noils: 

Pounds 

Cost 

Yams  not  made  in  miU: 
Woolen  and  merino- 
Pounds 

Cost 

Worsted- 
Pounds 

Cost 

Cotton- 
Pounds 

Cost 

Linen- 
Pounds 

Cost. . : 

Jute  and  other  vegetable  fiber: 

Pounds 

Cost 

All  other  materials  which  are  components  of  the  product,  cost — 

Chemicals  and  dyestuffs,  cost 11,729,492 

Fuel,  mill  supplies,  and  all  other  materials,  cost 12, 185, 231 

Materials  made  in  mill  for  use  therein—  --  ,«^  «„ 

Woolen  yam ,  pounds 37, 184, 277 

Worsted  yam,  pounds (     14,093,571 


1900 


139,458,308 


64,135,030 

$11,752,396 

51,474,353 

5,309,568 
1458,061 

5.147,130 
$533,302 

627,302 
121,020 

824,827 
t56,345 

2,624,171 
1485,030 


26,302,035 

15,122,068 

11,292,749 
S5, 588, 915 

26, 166. 241 
$4,772,594 

8,792,876 
$1,606,009 

55,592,343 
$3,926,694 
$1,211,151 


1890 


Percent 

of 
increase. 


$27,228,719 


44.91 


51,871,334 
$8, 104, 107 
37,560,231 

6.707,281 
$471,104 

1,943,942 
$129,449 

$6,125 

744,233 
$43,555 

2,238,946 
$301,944 


33,234,286 
$5,069,648 

9.218,267 
$3,544,860 

19,823,561 
$2,744,928 

8,388,211 
$1,164,826 

38,846,413 
$2,476,029 
$671,601 
$1,151,726 
$1,348,817 


23.64 
45.02 
37.04 

•6.97 
»2.77 

164.78 
311.98 


243.18 

10.83 
29.37 

17.21 
63.95 


>20.86 
1.03 

22.50 
67.66 

32.00 
73.87 

4.82 

37.88 

43.11 
58.59 
80.34 
60.17 
62.01 


>  Does  not  include  small  quantities  of  camel,  alpaca,  and  vioona  hafr.  and  mohair. 

s  Decrease. 

a  Figures  not  available. 


The  amount  of  domestic  wool  used  by  the  carpet  industry  in  the 
United  States  is  less  than  500,000  pounds  and  is  included  in  the  above 
table  with  foreign  wool.  The  quantity  of  wool  used  in  condition  pur- 
chased by  the  mdustry  increased  23.64  per  cent  during  the  decade, 
and  the  value  increased  45.02  per  cent.  This  larger  increase  in  value, 
as  compared  with  quantity,  mdicates  a  decided  rise  in  the  price  of 
third-ckss  wools  purchased  by  the  industry  abroad.  The  amount  of 
animal  hair,  raw  cotton,  rags,  shoddy,  wool  waste,  etc.,  used  in  the 
unmanufactured  condition  by  the  industry  is  comparatively  small, 
but  no  doubt  a  large  quantity  of  them  are  used  by  the  industry  in  the 
semimanufactured  form  of  yarn.  The  cotton,  linen,  jute,  and  other 
vegetable  fiber  yarns  purchased  by  the  industry  are  used  chiefly  for 
the  backs  of  pile  carpets.  The  table  shows  that  37,184,277  pounds 
of  woolen  yarn  and  14,093,571  pounds  of  worsted  yarn  were  made  in 
the  carpet  mills  for  use  therein.  | 

Production  of  carpets  and  rugs  in  the  United  States. — ^The  production 
of  carpets  and  rugs  in  the  United  States  for  1899  and  1909  is  pre-, 
sented^in  Table  210. 

Table  210. — Carpets  and  rugs  produced  by  the  carpet  and  rug  industry  in  the  United 

States,  1899  and  1909. 


i 


- 

1909 

1899 

Percent 

of 

increase, 

1899-1909. 

Total  value 

$71,188,152 

$48,192,351 

47.71 

Carpets  and  mgs: 

Sauare  vards .. 

81,218,881 
$66,966,338 

57,176,729 
$48,475,889 

12,507,261 
$13,680,806 

4,576,368 
$8,737,768 

3,960,626 
$5,216,607 

« 6, 927, 198 
* $5, 514, 130 

11,405,514 
$8,576,906 

17,799,762 
$6,749,672 

24,042,152 
$18,490,449 

3,184,097 
$3,691,900 

767,248 
$1,381,562 

6,131,862 
$2,408,960 

1,400,233 
$1,660,322 

12,558,712 
$9,347,705 
$4,221,814 

76,410,050 
$43,551,158 

64,238,761 
$35,405,926 

5,026,778 
$4,762,269 

« 3, 587, 126 
•$4,030,842 

2,686,493 
$2,979,867 

4,280,066 
$3,743,353 

8,737,449 
$5,520,665 

39,920,849 
$14,368,930 

12,171,289 
$8,145,232 

327,598 
$342,262 

339,784 
$545,967 

2,722,323 
$1,175,951 

3,651,661 
$3,680,618 

5,129,923 
$2,400,434 
$4,641,193 

6.29 

Value 

53.76 

Carpets,  including  rugs  made  by  sewing  together  strips  of  carpet: 
Sauare  vards. 

110.99 

Value 

36.91 

Axminster  and  moquette — 

Sauare  vards 

148.81 

Value..... 

187.27 

WUton— 

Sauare  vards 

27.58 

Value. 

116.77 

Brussels— 

Sauare  vards 

47.43 

Value 

75.06 

Tapestry  velvet  and  similar  carpets— 

Sauare  vards. 

61.85 

Value. 

47.30 

Tapestry  Brussels  and  similar  carpets— 

Sauare  vards. 

30.64 

Value 

55.36 

Ingrain — 

Sauare  vards - 

»55.41 

Value.  ... 

153.03 

Bugs  woven  whole: 

Sauare  vards. 

97.53 

Value.....  

127.01 

Axminster  and  moquette— 

Sauare  vards. 

871.95 

Value. 

978.68 

Wilton- 

Sauare  vards. 

125.80 

Value  

153.05 

Ingrain  art  squares — 

Sauare  vards 

125.24 

Value. 

104.85 

Bmyma— 

Sauare  yards. 

161.65 

Value  

154.89 

All  other  mgs— 

Sauare  vards. 

144.81 

Value 

289.42 

All  other  nroducts.  value. 

19.04 

1  T)Acr6&s6 

*  Wilton  velvet  carpets  are  included  with  Wilton  in  1899  and  with  tapestry  velvet,  etc.,  In  1900. 


1 


236 


BEPORT  OF  TABIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


BEPORT  OF  TABIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


237 


The  total  production  of  carpets  aiid  nigs  together  increased  from 
76,410,050  square  yards  in  1899  to  81,218,881  square  yards  in  1909. 
The  quantity  of  seamless  rugs  increased  from  12,171,289  square  yards 
to  24,042,152  square  yards,  or  97.53  per  cent.  The  quantity  of  car- 
pets and  carpeting  declined  during  the  same  penod  10.99  per  cent. 
This  decline  is  due  to  the  lar^e  decline  in  ingram  carpets;  aU  other 
carpets  show  an  increase  durmg  the  decade.  These  hgures  do  not 
indicate  the  entire  extent  to  which  rugs  have  supplanted  carpets, 
because  a  large  quantity  of  rugs  are  made  bv  sewmg  together  strips 
of  carpets,  and  these  are  mcluded  in  figures  for  carpets. 

THE    HOSIEBY    AND    KNIT   GOODS    INDUSTRY    IN    THE    UNITED    STATES. 

Development  and  arganizatim,— Although  mechanical  knitting  was 
introduced  into  the  United  States  as  early  as  1832,  some  time  elapsed 
before  sufficient  improvements  were  made  to  aUow  the  manufacture 
of  knitted  hosiery  and  underwear  to  develop  extensively.  In  1849 
there  were  85  knitting  mills,  most  of  them  sma  1,  usm^c  hand  machines, 
with  a  product  valued  at  only  $1,028,102  Since  the  Civil  War  the 
advance  of  this  industry  has  been  rapid,  and,  although  it  is  sUU 
behind  the  worsted  industry  in  value  of  product,  it  has  passed  the 

woolen  industry  since  1899.  .     .     ,        ^    .  ,        j  i      .u^ 

In  its  early  days  wool  was  the  prmcipal  material  used  by  ine 
hosiery  and  \nit-goods  industry,  and  for  this  reason  t^e  census 
classified  it  with  wool  manufactures.  Begmning  with  1899,  how- 
ever it  has  been  treated  as  a  separate  division  of  ^he  textile  mdustry 
on  account  of  the  increase  in  its  use  of  cotton.  In  its  organization 
the  industry  is  composed  largely  of  knittmg  miUs  proper,  i.  e.,  the 
majority  of  them  do  not  spm  their  own  yarns,  but  buy  them  ready- 
made  from  spinning  mills  which  are  classified  bv  the  census  as  cotton, 
woolen,  or  worsted  miUs.  according  to  the  character  of  the  yams 
made.    Some  knitting  mills,  however,  spin  their  own  varn. 

A  comparative  summary  of  the  development  of  the  hosiery  and 
knit-goods  industry  in  the  United  States  since  1859  is  presented  m 
Table  211. 

Table  211.— Comoorafm  mmmaru  of  hosiery  and  Jcnit-goods  industry  in  the  United 

States,  1859  to  1909. 


Number  of  establish- 
ments  

Capital 

Samried  officials,  clerks, 
etc 

Salaries 

Wage  eamefs,  average 
number 

Total  wages 

Miscellaneous  expanses. 

Cost  of  materials  used . . 

Value  of  products 


Census— 


1909 


1904 » 


1.374 
1163,641,171 

5  721 
17,523!^ 


1,079 
1106,663,531 


12d,287 

$44,743,822 

113,055,794 

$110,048,676 

$200,143,527 


1899 


4y  tRMI 

$4,436,941 

103,715 

$31,536,024 

$10,320,176 

$76,593,782 

$136,558,139 


921 
$81,860,604 

2,809 
$3,124,798 

83,387 

$24,368,627 

$6,599,865 

$51,071,859 

$95,482,566 


loov 


796 
$50,607,738 

« 1,621 
'$1,685,153 

59.588 

$16,678,119 

$3,627,245 

$35,861,585 

$67,241,013 


1879 


$15,579,591 

$6,701,475 

(*) 
$15,210,951 

$29,167,227 


197 
$10,931,260i$4,035,510 


1860 


1859 


14,788 
$4,429,085 

(*) 

$9,835,823 
$18,411,564 


9,103 
$1,661,972 

(*) 

$3,202,317 
$7,280,606 


1  Exclusive  of  the  statistics  of  5  establishments  engaged  urimsu-ilym  the  manu^^^  of  other  products. 
Th^SSblfchments  manutoctured  hosiery  and  knit  goods  t?  the  va^ue  of  «^7^m^  in  1900  and  1905. 

J  Includes  proprietors  and  firm  members,  with  thefr  salaries;  number  only  reportea  in  isw  ana  iwra, 
Init  not  included  in  this  table, 

>  Not  reported  separately. 

«  Not  reported. 


The  capital  invested  in  this  industry  increased  between  1859  and 
1869,  170.9  per  cent;  between  1869  and  1879,  42.5  per  cent;  between 
1879  and  1889,  224.8  per  cent;  between  1889  and  1899,  61.8  per  cent: 
between  1899  and  1909,  99.9  per  cent.  The  amount  of  wages  paid 
also  increased,  but  in  general  not  so  fast  as  the  capital  invested.  This 
increased  between  1859  and  1869,  166.5  per  cent;  between  1869  and 
1879,  51.3  per  cent;  between  1879  and  1889,  147.4  per  cent;  between 
1889  and  1899,  46.9  per  cent;  and  between  1899  and  1909,  83.7  per 
cent.  The  cost  of  materials  used  increased  between  1859  and  1869, 
207.1  per  cent;  between  1869  and  1879,  54.6  per  cent;  between  1879 
and  1889,  135.8  per  cent;  between  1889  and  1899,  42.4  per  cent; 
between  1899  and  1909,  115.5  per  cent. 

Distribution  of  the  hosiery  and  Jcnit  goods  industry. — Table  212  pre- 
sents the  distribution  of  the  hosiery  and  knit  goods  industry  in  the 
United  States,  by  States,  in  1909. 

Table  212.— Hosiery  and  knit  goods  industry  in  the  United  States,  by  States,  1909. 


Item. 


Number  of  establishments. . . 
Persons  employed ,  number . . 

Salaried  employees. . 

Wage  earners 

Capital 

Expenses,  total 

Services 

Salaries 

Wages 

Miscellaneous  expenses. . 

Materials  used,  total  cost 
All  products,  total  value 


United 
States. 


1,374 

135,008 

6,721 

129,287 

$163,641,171 

$175,371,720 

$52,267,250 

$7,523,428 

$44,743,822 

$13,055,794 

$110,048,676 

$200,143,527 


Connecti- 
cut. 


21 

3,522 

182 

3,340 

$6,463,632 

$5,225,820 

$1,687,385 

$324,237 

$1,363,148 

$489,888 

$3,048,547 

$5,800,692 


Illinois. 


43 
3,101 

188 

2.913 

$5,115,992 

$4,938,859 

$1,337,496 

$221,020 
$1,116,476 

$368,998 
$3,232,365 
$5,946,737 


Massachu- 
setts. 


65 

10,250 

309 

9,941 

$12,477,388 

$12,287,791 

$4,370,901 

$516,073 

$3,854,828 

$945,284 

$6,971,606 

$14,736,025 


New 
Hampshire. 


21 

3,198 

69 

3,129 

$3,529,826 

$4,157,043 

$1,240,125 

$96,898 

$1,143,227 

$281,246 

$2,635,673 

$4,764,119 


Item. 


Number  of  establishments. . . 
Parsons  employed,  number. . 

Balaried  employees 

Wage  earners 

Capital 

Exi)enses,  total 

Services 

Salaries 

Wages 

Miscellaneous  expenses. . 

Materials  used,  total  cost 
All  products,  total  value 


New  York. 


$52 
$59 

$16 
$1 

$14 
$4 

$38 
$67 


360 

37,370 

1,421 

35,949 

582,240 

589,470 

716,039 

8^3,784 

842,255 

196,118 

677,313 

130,296 


Pennsylvar 
nia. 


464 

39,740 

1,533 

38,207 

$38,989,088 

$43,667,741 

$13,408,339 

$1,657,953 

$11,750,386 

$3,265,833 

$26,993,569 

$49,657,506 


Rhode 
Island. 


17 

1,840 

66 

1,774 

$2,878,478 

$3,381,983 

$782,367 

$147,248 

$635,119 

$155,159 

$2,4^,457 

$3,865,792 


All  other 
States. 


383 

35,987 

1,953 

34,034 

$41,604,527 

$42,123,013 

$12,724,598 

12,686,215 

$10,038,383 

$3,353,269 

$26,045,146 

$48,242,360 


The  hosiery  and  knit  goods  industry  in  the  United  States  is  widely 
distributed,  although  confined  primarily  to  the  eastern  half  of  the 
United  States.  The  States  rank  in  the  order  of  value  of  product  as 
follows:  New  York,  Pennsylvania,  Massachusetts,  Illinois,  Connecti- 
cut, New  Hampshire,  and  Rhode  Island.  In  the  production  of  under- 
wear, both  flat  and  ribbed,  and  of  fancy  knit  goods,  New  York  leads. 
Pennsylvania  leads  in  the  production  of  hosiery.  Massachusetts  and 
Wisconsin  are  also  important  States  in  the  production  of  hosiery. 
Next  to  New  York  in  the  production  of  flat  underwear,  rank  Con- 
necticut and  Massachusetts.  In  the  production  of  ribbed  underwear 
next  to  New  York,  rank  Pennsylvania  and  Ohio,  and,  in  addition, 
there  are  numerous  mills  scattered  over  the  Southern  States  produc- 
ing ribbed  underwear.  In  the  production  of  fancy  knit  goods,  Illinois, 
Pennsylvania,  and  Ohio  rank  after  New  York. 


ti  1 


238' 


EEPOBT  OF   TARIFF  BOARD   ON   SCHEDUIiE  K, 


REPORT   OF   TARIFF   BOARD   ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


239 


Mechanical  eqmpjnerU  ofkniUing  miUs, — The  machinery  used  in  the 
hosiery  and  kmt  goods  industry  m  the  United  States  in  1909  is  pre- 
sented in  Table  213.  The  number  of  knitting  machines  is  the  chief 
index  of  production,  and  the  sewing  machines  are  used  primarily  for 
the  making  of  garments  from  knitted  piece  goods,  and  sewing  seams 
in  partially  kmtted  garments. 

Table  213.— Machinery  %md  in  the  hosierif  and  knit  goods  industry  in  the  United  States 

in  1909. 


Item. 


Woolen  cards 

Producing  spindles,  total 

Cotton... 

Woolen  and  worsted 

Doubling  and  twisting  spindles. 
Knitting  machines 

Sprmg  beard  needle 

Latch  needle 

Sewing  machines 


Number. 


854 

729,935 

472, 773 

257, 162 

6,855 

112,206 

14,573 

97,633 

43,885 


Materials  used  in  the  Initting  industry.— The  materials  used  in  the 
hosiery  and  knit  goods  industry  in  the  IJnited  States  in  1899  and  1909 
are  presented  in  Table  214. 

Table  2U.— Materials  used  in  the  hosiery  and  knit  goods  industry  in  the  United  States, 

1909  and  1S99. 


Total  cost.. 


Wool,  foreign,  in  condition  purchased: 

Pounda 

rjugt • 

Wool,  domestic,"  in  oondliUon  purchas^ 
Poimds 

Cost  ......,......»....-.--• 

Wool,  foreign  and  domestic,  scoinred,  poimds. 
Cotton: 

Pounds 

Cost 

Wool  waste  and  noils: 

Pounds 

Cost 

Shoddy,  mungo  and  wool  extract: 

Pounds 

Cost. 


Tops,  not  made  in  mill: 
Pounds 


Cost 

Yarns  not  made  in  mill: 

Woolen- 
Pounds 

Cost 

Worsted- 
Pounds 

Cost 

Merino — 

Pounds 

Cost 

Cotton- 
Pounds 

Cost....* 

Sftk  and  spun  silk— 

Pounds 

Cost 

Linen,  jute,  and  other  vegetable  fiber— 

Potmds 

Cost 

Chemicals  and  dyestufls,  cost . . :-•,:•  \v V  Js"  \ '  'lli;" " ' ' 

Fuel,  rent  of  power,  mill  supplies,  and  all  other  materials,  cost — 


1909 


$110,241,053 


472,707 
$252,419 

6,596,061 

$2,666,636 

5,582,839 

75.416,023 
$8,803,509 

8,586,261 
$2,813,129 

7,482,553 
$919,970 

121.565 
$92,995 


6,140,265 
$3,834,09i 

10,370,004 
$10,116,32S 

4,014,609 
$2,667,051 

216,987,611 
$48,165,749 

982,753 
$3,606,599 

241,754 

$180,818 

$2,541,939 

$23,579,820 


1899 


$51,195,868 


3,446,838 

$1,344,397 

14,507,060 
$3,917,738 
13,031,308 

49,451,301 
$3,501,592 

6,276,464 
$1,487,907 

3,770,626 
$488,792 

133,614 
.  $92,103 


2,621,893 
$1,257,687 

5,823,215 
$4,865,304 

1,981,484 
$642,535 

131,820,068 
$22,204,918 

266,247 
$946,801 

116,160 

$111,205 

$1,023,161 

$9,251,768 


Per  cent 
of  in- 
crease. 


115.33 


186.29 
181.22 

154.53 
131.93 
157.15 

52.51 
147.18 

62.73 
89.07 

98.44 
88.21 

19.02 
.97 


134.19 
204.88 

78.08 
107.93 

102.61 
315.  OS 

64.61 
116.91 

269.11 
280.93 

106.12 

62.51 

148.44 

154.87 


While  the  amount  of  raw  wool  in  condition  purchased  used  by  the 
hosiery  and  knit  goods  industry  declined  between  1899  and  1909,  the 
amount  of  wool  waste,  noils,  shoddy,  woolen,  worsted,  and  merino 
yarn  used  increased  during  the  same  decade.  Raw  wool  used  calcu- 
lated on  the  scoured  basis  amounted  in  1909  to  5,582,839  pounds, 
which  is  57.16  per  cent  less  than  was  used  in  1899.  But  in  1909  there 
were  also  used  by  the  industry  8,586,261  pounds  of  wool  waste  and 
noils  (an  increase  of  62.73  per  cent) ;  7,482,553  pounds  of  shoddy  (an 
increase  of  98.44  per  cent);  6,140,265  pounds  of  woolen  yarn  (an 
increase  of  134.19  per  cent);  10,370,004  pounds  of  worsted  yard  (an 
increase  of  78.08  per  cent);  and  4.014,609  pounds  of  merino  yarn  (an 
increase  of  102.61  per  cent).  The  consumption  of  cotton  and  cotton 
yarn  far  exceeds  the  consumption  of  wool  in  all  its  forms.  In  1909 
the  raw  cotton  consumed  by  the  industry  amounted  to  75,416,023 
pounds,  valued  at  $8,803,509  (an  increase  over  1899  of  52.51  per  cent 
m  quantity  and  147.18  per  cent  in  value).  In  1909  the  industry  con- 
sumed 216,987,611  pounds  of  cotton  yarn,  valued  at  $48,165,749  (an 
increase  over  1899  of  64.61  per  cent  in  quantity  and  116.91  per  cent 
in  value) . 

Products  of  {he  knitting  industry. — ^The  products  of  the  hosiery  and 
knit  goods  industry  have  already  been  discussed  on  pages  159  to  161 
of  this  report. 

THE   FELT-GOODS   INDUSTRY   IN   THE   UNITED   STATES. 

Development. — Although  felt  was  one  of  the  earhest  forms  in  which 
wool  was  manufactured  in  the  United  States,  the  industry  did  not 
receive  recognition  by  the  census  until  1879.  In  that  year  there 
were  reported  26  mills  with  a  product  of  $3,619,652.  The  value  of 
the  products  of  this  industry  have  steadily  increased.  From  1889 
to  1899  the  increase  was  38.8  per  cent,  and  from  1899  to  1909,  83.4 
per  cent.  A  comparative  summary  of  the  progress  of  the  felt-goods 
mdustry  in  the  United  States  since  1889  is  presented  in  Table  215. 

Table  215. — Comparative  summary  of  the  felt-goods  industry  in  the  United  S tales y 

1889-1909. 


Census- 


Number  of  establishments 

Capital 

Salaried  officials,  clerks,  etc.,  number 

Salaries 

Wage  earners,  average  number 

Total  wages 

Miscellaneous  exjMnse 

Cost  of  materials  used 

Value  of  product 


1909 


43 

$12,754,833 

293 

$614,271 

3,544 

$1,711,880 

$874, 194 

$6,967,206 

$11,852,626 


1904 


$9,667,136 

201 

$350,594 

3,254 

$1,366,754 

$612,766 

$5,754,026 

4Pc>>  <MpC>^  %3nr% 


1899 


36 

$7,126,276 

136 

$231,065 

2,688 

$1,024,836 

$356, 164 

$3,801,028 

$6,461,691 


1889 


34 

$4,460,621 

1124 

1  $157,916 

2,142 

$883,380 

$232,871 

$2,809,937 

$4,654,768 


1  Includes  proprietors  and  firm  members  and  their  salaries;  number  only  reported  in  1900  and  1905,  but 
not  included  in  this  table. 

The  capital  invested  in  the  felt-goods  industry  increased  between 
1889  and  1899,  59.7  per  cent,  and  between  1899  and  1909,  79  per  cent. 
The  total  wages  paid  increased  between  1889  and  1899,  16  per  cent, 
and  between  1899  and  1909,  67  per  cent.  The  cost  of  materials 
increased  in  about  the  same  proportion  as  the  value  of  the  products. 


tl 


240 


BBPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


241 


They  increased  between  1889  and  1899,  35.3  per  cent,  and  between 

'X'hIS  oS  Mustry.^rhe  distribution  of  the  felt- 

good^  Ss^^^^  States,  %  Stat^  for  1909  is  presented 

ITTable  216  The  States  in  the  oraer  of  their  importance  as  to 
value  of  product  were  New  York,  Massachusetts,  New  Jersey,  Con- 
necticut,  and  Pennsylvania. 

Tablb  2U.-'Felt-ffOoda  industry  in  the  United  StaU$,  by  StaUSy  1909. 


Number  of  establish- 
ments  -■- 

Persons      employed, 

number 

Salaried  employ- 
ees, number 

Wage  earners,  av- 
erage number . , 

Capital 

Expenses,  total 

Services 

Salaries 

Wages , 

Miscellaneous  ex- 
penses  

Materials,  cost... 
Value  of  products 


United 
States. 


Connecti- 
cut. 


43 

3,837 
293 

Of  3nfk 

112,754,833 
$10,167,551 

12,326,151 
1614,271 

$1,7U,880 

SS74,194 

$6,967,206 

$11,862,626 


chusetts. 


273 

10 

263 
$741,754 
$670,266 
$135,003 
$14,542 
1120,481 

$20,239 
$515,003 
$743,298 


10 

682 

il 

«31 

$2,044,861 

$1,093,316 

$443,549 

$l4l,452 

$302,097 

$143,809 
$1,406,958 
$2,349,108 


New 

Jersey. 


217 

9 

208 
$833,255 
$725,503 
$117,829 
$11,875 
$105,954 

$53,614 
$554,060 
$856,640 


IPeno* 
sylvania. 


12 

1,314 

80 

1,225 

$4,565,211 

$3,801,812 

$867,707 

$257,948 

$609,759 

$2n,042 
$2,657,063 
$4,482,258 


206 

23 

183 

$1,034,110 

$475,577 

$131,960 

$31,413 

$100,647 

$69,364 
$274,253 
$566,421 


AU  other 
States. 


S 

1,145 
HI 

1,034 

$3,535,042 

$2,501,078 

$630,083 

$157,041 

$473,042 

$310,126 
$1,560,869 
$2,851,901 


Materwh  med  in  tkefeU^oods  industry. —The  matmaJs  used  in  the 
felt  g^^  industry  in  tfie  United  States  fn  1899  and  190?  axe  shown  in 
Tabfe  217.    The  largest  rates  of  increase  shown  ^T^^^^^  J^^ 
animal  hair,  shoddy,  wool  waste,  noils   etc.,  but  tbe  amount  of  raw 
wool  used  is  larger  than  any  other  smgle  item. 
Table  217. -MateriaU  med  infelt-goodi  industry  in  the  United  States,  1909  and  im. 


Item. 


Total  cost. 


Wool,  foreign  and  domestic,  in  condition  parohaasd: 

Pounds 

rvjg* "■■ 

Wool  foreign  and  domestic^  in  scoured  condition,  pounds. . . . 
Animal  hair  and  fur 

Pounds 

Cost 

Cotton: 

Pounds 

Cost 

Rags,  tailors*  clippings,  etc: 

Pounds r 

Cost  ..,......•.••.-•»•»••"••--••-*••*""■"*•'"' 

Shoddy,  mungoVand  wool  extract: 

Pounds 

(^Oglt 

Waste  and  noils'  of  v/ool,  mohair,  camel  hair,  etc.: 

Pounds 

Cost 

Cotton  3mm,  not  made  in  mill: 

Pounds 

All  other"  materi^'which  arc  components  of  the  product,  eost . 

Chemicals  and  dyestufls, cost- • ;: •  ■  •-„:;;x- -,;•  ii;j ' 

Fuel,  rent  of  power,  miU  supplies,  and  all  other  materials,  cost. 
Materials  made  hi  mUl  for  use  therem: 


IWO 


$6,967,206 


1b9v 


$3,801,028 


Woolen  yam,  pounds. 
Shoddy,  pounds.. 


12,409.826 

$3,927,393 

9,308,172 

8.148.411 
$242,744 

1.375,670 
$155,815 

1,115.092 
$57,368 

2.536,243 
$261,878 

4.874,712 
11,220,110 

263,226 

$64,013 

$380,916 

$219,801 

$427,180 

4,543,267 
876,000 


9,606,263 

$2,196,440 

6,468,097 

2.819,621 
$125,803 

1,225.850 
$77,683 

a) 

$60,098 

712.373 
$80,737 

2.653,500 
$552,902 

51,707 

$9,657 

$109,480 

$128,296 

$370,833 


Per  cent  of 
increase. 


83.30 


29.18 

78.81 
43.91 

189. 00 
92.96 

12.22 
100.58 


l,^% 


835 


14.49 

2.'i6.03 
224.36 

83.70 

120.64 

409.07 

572. 18 

95.46 

71.39 

12.47 


•29. 93 


.■■llllli il 


Products  of  the  felt-goods  industry.— The  products  of  the  felt-goods 
industry  have  already  been  presented  and  discussed  on  page  165  of 

this  report. 

Summary  of  wool  felt  liats.— In  1909  there  were  31  establishments 
reported  by  the  census  as  producing  wool-felt  hats.  These  establish- 
ments employed  1,986  wage  earners,  had  a  capital  of  $2,475,748, 
used  materials  valued  at  $2,472,263,  and  turned  out  products  valued 
at  $4,382,411.  The  products  have  been  presented  in  detail  on 
page  157. 

THE    CLOTHING   INDUSTRY   IN   THE   UNITED   STATES. 

Men's  clothing.— The  products  of  the  clothing  industry  in  this 
country  are  of  great  diversity  and  the  census  does  not  attempt  to 
give  them  separately  according  to  the  textile  fiber  of  which  they  are 
composed,  rroducts  of  wool,  cotton,  and  other  materials  are 
reported  together.  The  products  of  men's  clothing  include  men's, 
boys',  and  diildren's  clothing  and  such  garments  as  overalls,  market 
frocks,  butchers'  aprons,  uniforms,  bathing  suits,  knee  pants,  gym- 
nasium and  sporting  clothing,  etc.  While  onhr  a  portioli  of  these 
are  composed  m  whole  or  in  part  of  wool,  the  figures  relating  to  the 
industry  are  significant.  In  1909  there  were  5,584  establishments 
engaged  in  the  production  of  men's  clothing  in  the  five  leading  cities 
of  Rochester,  New  York  City,  Philadelphia,  Baltimore,  and  Chicago, 
employing  218,255  persons  and  turning  out  products  valued  at 
$485,677,493.  Table  218  presents  the  summary  of  this  industry  for 
1909. 

Table  2t8. — Summary  ofmen^s  clothing  industry  in  the  United  States  for  1909. 


Item. 


Number  of  establish- 
ments  

Persons    engaged     in 

manufactures 

Proprietors  and  firm 

members 

Salaried  employees. 
Wage  earners  (aver- 
age number) 

Capital 

Expenses 

Services 

Salaries 

Wages 

Materials 

Miscellaneous 

Value  of  products 


United 
States. 


5,584 

218,255 

7.375 
19,697 

191.183 

8230,703.112 

$438,488,649 

$112,727,058 

$23,082,137 

$89,644,921 

$252, 522. 567 

$73,239,024 

$485,677,493 


Rochester. 


196 
8,559 

241 

686 

7,732 

$10,808,113 

$17,355,581 

$4,970,713 

$1,162,151 

$3,808,562 

$8,681,561 

$3,703,307 

$18,878,508 


New  York 
City. 


Philadel- 
phia. 


2,350 

70,637 

3,368 
6,994 

61,275 

$78,372,785 

$176,761,862 

$42,707,495 

$7,314,866 

$35,392,629 

$99,428,640 

$34,625,727 

$195,555,371 


Baltimore. 


414 

9,480 

592 
655 

8,233 

$11,396,544 

$19,267,471 

$5,092,802 

$815,431 

$4,277,371 

$10,819,420 

$3,355,249 

$21,852,"261 


310 

16,974 

430 
1,454 

15,090 

$15,624,572 

$26,817,911 

$7,925,505 

$1,590,697 

16,334,808 

$15,818,020 

$3,074,386 

$29,236,539 


Chicago. 


37,537 

812 
3,835 

32,890 
$35,753,963 
$75,278,065 
$19,624,413 
$4,195,296 
$15,429,117 
$42,033,777 
$13,619,875 
$83,735,584 


Women's  clothing. — ^As  in  the  case  of  the  products  of  the  men's 
clothing  industry,  the  women's  clothmg  industry  includes  in  its 
products  those  made  of  wool,  cotton,  and  all  other  materials.  These 
products  include  cloaks,  capes,  jackets,  wrappers,  shirt  waists, 
dresses,  skirts,  cloak  linings,  underwear,  infants'  clothing,  dress 
stays,  quilted  linings,  belts,  dress  shields,  suits,  pleating,  aprons, 
sleeves,  petticoats,  Idmonas,  dressing  sacks,  hose  supporters,  and 
night  robes.  The  total  number  of  establishments  engaged  inpro- 
ducing  these  articles  in  1909  in  the  cities  of  Rochester,  New  York, 


I  Figaxes  not  avaOablek 


sDecratse. 


32080'— H.  Doc.  342,  62-2,  vol  1- 


46 


242 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOAED  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


Philadelphia,  Baltunore,  and  aiicago,  was  4,558,  employing  179,021 
persons  and  turning  out  products  valued  at  $384,751,649.  lable 
219  presents  the  summary  of  this  industry  for  1909,  togethei  with 
the  proportion  produced  in  each  of  the  cities  mentioned  above. 

Table  219.— Summary  ofwomm*8  chthing  industry  in  the  United  States  for  1909. 


Item. 


establish- 


Number     of 

ments 

Persons  engaged  in  man- 

ofactures 

Frapiietora  and  finn 

members 

Salaried  employees. . 
Wage  earners  (aver- 
age number) 

Capital 

JSxpenses 

Services 

Salaries 

Waces 

Materials 

Miscellaneous 

Valne  of  products 


United 

O'tates. 


4,sm 

179,021 

«»482 

18,79ft 

153,743 
$129,301,057 
$341,489,2^ 

$98,986,029 
»20,417,768 
178,568,261 

$206,788,226 
$33,715,001 

$384,751,649 


Rochester. 


4 

92 

1 

16 

75 
106,915 

$147,380 
$41,179 
$11,459 
$29,720 
$82,959 
$13,242 

$153,086 


New  York 
City. 


2,995 
110,567 

4,332 

11,977 

94,258 
$80,761,9'26 

$2:^6.090,095 
$66, 616, 938 
$13,099,250 
$53,517,688 

$144,845^007 
$24,628,130 

$266,477,381 


Philadel- 
phia. 


351 

15,627 

576 
1,551 

13.500 

$10,590,279 

$26,293,811 

$8,104,608 

$1,530,733 

$6,573,875 

$16,665,940 

$1,523,263 

$30,132,842 


Baltimore. 


m 

2,953 

99 
282 

2.572 

$1,685,753 

$3,919,147 

$1, 148, 323 

$270, 207 

$878,116 

$2,279,483 

$491,311 

$4,333,171 


Clilcagu. 


304 

6,666 

354 
TOT 

5.615 

$5,193,048 

$14. 136. 673 

$3,911,981 

$915,022 

$2,996,959 

$8,658,2«) 

$1,566,443 

$15,676,925 


WOOL  MANUFACTURES   IN   THE   UNITED   KINGDOM. 

Distnbution.— In  1907,  71.68  per  cent  of  the  persons  emoloyed  in 
the  woolen,  worsted,  and  shoddy  industnes  of  the  Umted  Kingdom 
were  employed  wthin  the  comparatively  small  area  of  the  West 
Riding  of  Yorkshire.  Bradford  is  the  most  important  city.  It  is 
important  aa  a  distributing  center  of  raw  materials,  as  the  center  of 
worsted  combing  and  spinning,  and  as  a  center  for  the  production  of 
worsted  stuffs  or  dress  goods  for  women's  wear.  Huddersneld  is  the 
cjenter  for  the  production  of  the  best  worsted  goods  for  men's  we^r. 
Fancy,  cheap  woolens  made  in  imitation  of  Scotch  tweeds  are  made 
in  the  Colne  Valley  near  Huddersfield.  Heavy  woolens,  overcoat- 
ings, cheap  cloakings,  blankets,  and  army  cloths  are  made  m  and 
near  Dewsbury  and  Batley.  Tliis  is  the  center  of  the  shoddv  and 
rag  business,  and  much  of  the  reclaimed  wool  is  turned,  by  skillful 
blending  and  manipulation,  into  cheap  but  serviceable  fabrics. 
Fabrics  made  at  Morley  are  the  lowest  quahty  made.  Leeds,  once 
noted  for  its  broadcloths,  has  now  taken  up  the  manufacture  of 
woreted  coatings,  seizes,  etc.  Halifax  is  best  known  as  a  producer 
of  worsted  yarn.  Rochdale,  in  Lancashire,  is  unportant  for  its 
t\  Siimels 

The  southern  part  of  Scotland  is  noted  for  its  Scotch  tweed  trade. 
Galashiels  is  the  most  important  center.  The  Scotch  tweed  industry 
employs  about  12,000  persons,  318  sets  of  cards,  243,000  spmdles, 

and  3,100  looms.  -     ..    ^      i       j  i  xt         j 

The  "West  of  England,"  once  famous  for  its  fine  broadcloths  and 
other  woolens,  has  declined  in  competition  with  the  worsteds  of 
Yorkshire.  Stroud,  however,  has  still  the  reputation  of  using  the 
finest  wools  in  the  world.  Kidderminster  is  the  most  important  car- 
pet center  and  Leicester  and  parts  of  Nottingham  and  Derby  are 
important  in  the  production  of  hosiery. 


REPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOAED  ON  SCHEDULE  K, 


243 


Within  recent  years  the  increasing  difficulty  of  finding  a  foreign 
market  for  specialized  goods  has  led  to  a  greater  diversity  of  products 
in  certain  centers,  so  that,  while  a  center  is  chiefly  noted  for  one 
type  of  goods,  it  also  makes  others.  It  should  also  be  noted  in  this 
connection  that  the  term  ''Colne  Valley"  designates  not  only  a 
locality  but  a  type  of  goods.  Colne  Valley  goods,  i.  e.,  cheap  woolens, 
are  made  chiefly  in  the  Colne  Valley,  but  they  may  be  made  in  a  so- 
called  Colne  Valley  mill  located  elsewhere  in  the  United  Kingdom. 

The  distribution  of  the  woolen,  worsted,  shoddy  (wool),  and  hosiery 
industries  in  the  United  Kingdom  is  shown  by  persons  employed  in 
each  locaHty  in  Table  220. 

Table  220. — Persons  employed  in  1907  in  wool  and  hosiery  industries  in  the  United 

Kingdom. 


Locality. 


North  London 

South  London 

West  London 

East  London 

Northampton 

Norwich 

Ipswich 

Bristol 

Southampton 

Plymouth 

Swansea 

Cardiff 

Dublin 

Cork 

Birmingham 

Worcester 

Wolverhampton 

Walsall 

Stoke 

Leicester 

Nottingham , 

Dwby 

Wrexham 

Leeds 

HuU 


Wool. 


21 

90 

1,071 

250 


6,838 

144 

1,248 

1,020 

92 

1,588 

1,431 

1,065 

7,848 

490 

14 

71 

2,804 

335 

633 

823 

21,053 

23 


Hosiery. 


13 

3 

54 


33 

171 

2 

130 


337 
143 


346 
108 
448 


15 

18,979 

7,377 

3,786 

77 

238 


Locality. 


Sheffield 

Huddersfield 

Halilax 

Bradford 

Newcastle 

Stockton 

Manchester 

Oldham 

Rochdale '. . . 

Bolton 

Stockport 

Liverpool 

Blackbura 

Preston 

Glasgow 

Kilmarnock 

Edinburgh 

Dundee 

Aberdeen 

Inverness 

Belfast 

Londonderry 

United  Kingdom 


Wool. 


907 

57,007 

24,546 

85,770 

99 

521 

1,040 

2,505 

7,674 

53 

393 

91 

3 

1,594 

6,046 

4,681 

11.464 

4,704 

1,455 

537 

631 

453 


Hosiery. 


5 

116 

57 

358 


32 


208 

564 

46 

8 

39 

169 

1,912 

1,500 

1,918 

45 

5.52 

19 

100 


261,192 


39,791 


Organization  of  the  woolen  and  worsted  industry  in  the  United  King- 
dom.— Statistics  show  that  the  average  number  of  spindles  and  looms 
per  factory  is  higher  in  the  worsted  than  in  the  woolen  industry. 
Assuming  that  there  are  spindles  ai^d  looms  in  every  factory  (an 
assumption  which  is  not  warranted,  especially  in  the  worsted  industry) 
there  were  on  the  average  1,898  spindles  and  37  looms  in  each  woolen 
factory,  and  on  the  average  3,493  spindles  and  63  looms  in  each 
worsted  factory  in  the  United  Kingdom  in  1904.  The  larger  size  of 
the  worsted-producing  unit  as  shown  by  these  figures  is  further 
accentuated  by  the  fact  that  the  worsted  industry  is  much  more 
specialized  than  the  woolen  industry  and  therefore  many  of  the  fac- 
tories used  in  making  the  above  averages  had  neither  looms  nor 
spindles  (i.  e.  were  combing  mills),  or  had  looms  or  spindles  only;  all 
01  which  could  tend  to  make  the  average  number  of  worsted  spmdles 
running  in  one  place  still  greater. 

At  the  basis  of  worsted  specialization  is  the  wool  comber,  who 
either  combs  on  the  commission  or  makes  tops  for  sale.  The  so-called 
top  maker  in  the  United  Kingdom  is  not  a  manufacturer  but  a 
merchant  who  buys  raw  wool,  has  it  combed  on  commission,  and 


i  } 


244 


REPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOAED  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


sells  in  the  form  of  top.  The  demand  for  a  great  variety  of  yarns  and 
fabrics  has  led  also  to  specialization  in  worsted  spinning  and  weaving. 
The  weavers  have  found  it  impossible  to  spin  all  the  varying  kinds  of 
yarns  required  in  their  fabrics  and  have  found  it  convenient  and 
profitable  to  buy  from  those  spinners  who  make  the  particular  yam 
needed.  The  absence  of  specialization  in  the  woolen  industry  is  in 
part  due  to  the  nature  of  the  raw  material  used.  The  blenoing  of 
shoddy,  noils,  wool,  etc.,  is  the  most  important  operation  in  making 
cheap  fabrics  and  the  manufacturer  can  not  afford  to  entrust  tliis  to 
one  outside  his  mill. 

Persons  employed. — ^The  number  of  persons  employed  in  the  woolen, 
worsted,  and  shoddy  factoiies  of  the  United  Kingdom  in  1895  was 
282,401;  in  1897,  265,744;  in  1901,  259,909;  and  in  1907,  261,192. 
The  persons  employed  in  these  factories  in  1907  are  given  in  Table  221 
by  age,  and  process  in  which  they  were  employed. 


Table  221.- 


Xumber  of  operatives  in  wool  and  worsted  (including  shoddy)  factories  of 
the  United  Kingdom  in  1907. 


Process. 


Sorting,  combing,  etc 

Spinning.. 

Weaving 

Otber  processes 

Total 


Half- 
timers. 

Full-timers. 

Under  18 
years. 

18  years 
and  above. 

Total. 

3 

7,G23 

439 

51 

848 

31.350 

17,092 

4,075 

13.484 

59,591 

102,569 

24, 167 

14,335 

98,464 

120,100 

28,293 

8,118 

53,265 

199,811 

261,192 

Table  221  shows  that  8,116  persons  were  employed  at  half  time 
and  that  253,076  persons  were  employed  full  time;  of  the  latter, 
53,265  were  under  18  vears  of  age  and  199,811  were  18  years  of  age 
and  above.  The  table  also  shows  that  14,335  persons  were  em- 
ployed in  sorting,  carding,  combing,  and  other  preparatory  processes; 
that  98,464  were  employed  in  spinning;  and  that  120,100  were  em- 
ploved  in  weaving. 

Mechanical  equipment  of  mill  in  United  Kingdom. — In  the  woolen, 
worsted,  and  shoddy  industries  of  the  United  Kingdom  in  1904 
there  were  2,780,565  mule  spindles  and  2,844,912  worsted  spindles. 
One  milhon  six  hundred  and  two  thousand  two  hundred  and  fifteen 
of  the  former  and  2,614,727  of  the  latter  were  in  Yorksliire.  Nine 
hundred  rag-grinding  machines  were  reported,  881  of  wliich  were  in 
Yorkshire.  There  were  104,514  power  looms  in  the  United  Kingdom 
and  69.09  per  cent  of  these  had  a  reed  space  of  60  iaches  or  over. 
(The  reed  space  is  an  index  of  the  width  of  the  fabric  produced.)  The 
mechanical  equipment  and  persons  employed  in  the  woolen,  worsted, 
and  shoddy  mills  of  the  United  Kingdom  for  1867,  1874,  1885,  1889, 
and  1904  are  shown  in  Table  222. 


KEPOKT  OF  TAKIFF  BOAKD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


245 


Table  222.- 


■  Mechanical  equipment  and  persons  employed  in  the  woolen,  worsted,  and 
shoddy  industries  in  the  United  Kingdom. 


1867 


Factories 

Rag-grinding  machines 

Woolen  carding  sets 

Worsted  combing  machines. 
Spinning  spindles: 

Mule 

Other 

Doubling  spindles 


2,649 


1,038 


}6. 455, 879 
519,629 


Power  looms: 

Up  to  40  inches  reed  space 

Over  40  and  under  60  inches. . 
CO  inches  reed  space  and  over. 


Total  power  looms 

Total  number  of  persons  employed. 


118,875 


262,283 


1S74 


2,617 


1,27C 

5,449,495 
558,914 


140,274 


280,133 


1885 


2,751 


5,375,102 
769,492 


139,902 


282,255 


1889 


2,517 


1904 


2,382 

900 

6.700 

2,924 


5,604,535  /  2,780,565 


969.812 


131,506 


301,556 


844,912 
1,059,049 


9,456 
22,843 
72,216 


104,514 


261, 192 


Output  of  woolen  and  worsted  factories  in  the  United  Kingdom. — The 
output  of  the  woolen  and  worsted  factoiies  of  the  United  Kingdom 
as  reported  by  their  census  of  1907  is  presented  in  Table  223.  These 
figures  are  reputed  to  be  free  from  duplications.  The  partially  manu- 
facttired  products  reported  are  those  made  chiefly  for  export,  although 
some  of  tnem  may  have  been  used  in  mills  other  than  those  in  which 
they  were  made,  for  producing  more  finished  products.  The  yarns 
are  exclusive  of  those  made  in  mills  for  use  therein.  The  figures  for 
finished  products  may  be  taken  at  their  face  value: 

Table  223. — Output  of  the  woolen  and  worsted  factories  in  the  United  Kingdom  in  1007. 


Wool,  sorted,  blended,  et«.: 

Sheep  or  lamb's  wool 

Other  sorts 

Woolen  rags,  carbonized,  dved,  etc. 

Tops * 

Noils 

Flocks 

Waste 


Shoddy,  mungo,  etc 

Yams  (all  wool  or  mixed  with  other  materials): 

Woolen  (carded) 

Worsted  (combed  or  carded) 

Alpaca  and  mohair 

Other  hair  or  wool 

Woolen  tissues  (all  wool  or  mixed  with  otlier  materials,  including  mixtures  of 
woolen  and  worsted  yarns): 

Broad 

Narrow 

Worsted  tissues  (all  wool  or  mixed  with  other  materials): 

Worsted  coatings  and  trouserings  of  all  kinds- 
Broad  

Narr  o  w ; 

Worsted  stuffs,  dress  goods,  linings,  lastings,  etc 

Damasks,  tapestry,  and  other  furniture  stuffs 

Wool  and  mohair  plushes 

Flannels  and  dclames 

Carpets  (not  being  rugs) 

Rugs  other  than  traveling  rugs: 

Returned  in  square  yards 

Returned  by  number 1 .!...!  i  1 !!  T. !!!".!!!.!!] ! 


Blankets. 


Shawls 

Coverlets,  traveling  rugs,  or  wrappers .........'.'.'.'..... 

Wool  and  mohair  braids,  laces,  and  other  small  wares. 

Manufactures  of  wool  and  worsted,  unenumerated 

All  other  products 


Grand  total. 


Quantity. 


Pounds. 
29,602,000 
8,352,000 
51,192,000 

188,769,000 
31,589,000 
26,947,000 
33,988,000 

137,056,000 

62,225,000 

159,940,000 

20,316,000 

10,942,000 

Yards. 

143,246,000 

40,350,000 


51,104,000 

7,435,000 

142,852,000 

2,608,000 

3,077,000 

49,749,000 

26,159,000 

3,859,000 
178,000 

Pairs. 
3,115,000 

Number. 
1,290,000 
828,000 


Value. 


$1,883,336 
1,270,157 
2,034,197 

13,115,218 

2,958,832 

691,043 

3,207,024 

8,749,967 

11,747,731 

78,146,257 

11,494,673 

1,975,799 


71,819,807 
8,516,375 


40,732,605 
3,523,346 

32,235,686 
1,202,026 
1,005,945 
8,530,975 

16,239,511 

2,949,099 

199,527 


7,056,425 


1,104.696 
1,148,494 
520,716 
3,839,669 
3,766,671 


342,265,812 


246 


BEPORT  OF   TABIFF  BOABD  OH   SCHEDULE  K. 


BEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD   ON  SCHEDTJUE  K. 


247 


Exports  from  ihe  United  Kingdom ,  1910. — ^The  year  1910  was  the 
most  prosperous  year  the  woolen  and  worsted  industries  of  the 
United  Kingdom  have  ever  had.  Due  to  the  fact  that  these  industries 
depend  so  largely  on  foreign  markets,  the  exports  of  woolen  and 
worsted  goods  are  a  good  index  of  their  prosperity.  Before  1910,  the 
record  year  for  exports  of  all  kinds  of  woolen  and  worsted  manufac- 
tures and  partially  manufactured  products  was  1872.  In  that  year 
the  industries  of  France  and  Geraiany  had  not  fully  recovered  from 
the  effects  of  the  Franco-Prussian  War  and  the  industries  of  the  United 
Kingdom  found  little  competition  in  the  markets  of  the  world.  The 
total  value  of  the  exports  from  the  United  Kingdom  in  1872  of  man- 
ufactured and  partially  manufactured  woolen  and  worsted  products 
was  $195,093,070.  This  figure  was  passed  in  1910  for  the  first  time,  in 
which  year  the  total  value  of  the  exports  of  manufactured  and  par- 
tially manufactured  products  was  $207,583,531. 

WOOL   MANUFACTURES   IN    GERMANY. 

Disiribution. — ^Practically  every  Kingdom,  Duchy,  and  Principality 
in  the  German  Empire  contains  persons  employed  in  the  wool  indus- 
tries. There  are  no  outstanding  centers  tnat  compare  with  Brad- 
ford in  England  and  Roubaix  m  France.  There  are  commission 
combing  mills  at  Blumenthal  near  Bremen,  Hamburg,  Leipzig, 
Dohren  near  Hanover,  and  Mylau.  Important  worsted  spinning 
mills  are  located  at  Leipzig,  Zwichau,  Plauen,  and  Mulilhausen  in 
Alsace.  In  the  small  Principahties  of  Reuss,  with  their  capitals  at 
Gera  and  Greiz,  there  were  in  1907,  16,802  persons  employed  in  the 
woolen  and  worsted  industries.  They  produce  chiefly  dress  goods 
of  the  Bradford  type.  In  1907  the  Rhine  Province  of  Prussia 
employed  38,354  persons  in  the  woolen  and  worsted  industries. 
Aachen  is  the  chief  city  and  is  primarily  noted  for  its  woolens,  but 
also  makes  worsteds.  The  Province  of  Brandenburg  in  1907  reported 
36,924  persons  employed  in  this  industrv  and  Silesia  employed 
11,583  persons.  The  woolen  industry  predominates  in  this  section 
although  worsted  yams  are  spun  at  Liegnitz  and  Breslau.  The  town 
of  Forst  is  the  largest  carded- wool  center  in  Germany.  The  number 
of  persons  employed  in  the  woolen  and  worsted  industries  in  Bavaria 
in  1907  was  10,184,  in  Saxony  52,359,  and  in  Alsace  19,905.  It  fol- 
lows from  what  has  been  said  that  the  woolen  and  worsted  industries 
of  Germany  are  widely  scattered.  The  distribution  of  the  industry 
is  shown  in  detail  in  Table  224. 


Table  224.— Establishments  and  persons  employed  in  wool  preparing,  spinning,  wear- 
ing,  dyeing,  and  finishing  in  1907,  in  the  German  Empire,  by  States  and  subdivisions. 


German  Empire 


Kingdom  of  Prussia 

Province  of  East  Prussia 

Province  of  West  Prussia 

City  of  Berlin 

Province  of  Brandenburg 

Province  of  Pomerania 

Province  of  Posen 

Province  of  Silesia 

Province  of  Saxony 

Province  of  Schleswig-Holstein 

Province  of  Hanover 

Province  of  Westphalia 

Province  of  Hessen-Nassau 

Province  of  Rhineland 

Holienzollem 

Kingdom  of  Bavaria 

North  Bavaria 

South  Bavaria 

Eheinpfalz 

Kingdom  of  Saxony 

Kingdom  of  Wurttemburg 

Grand  Duchy  of  Baden 

Grand  Duchy  of  Ilessen 

Grand  Duchy  of  Mecklenburg-Schwerin. . . 

Grand  Duchy  of  Saxony 

Grand  Duchy  of  Mecklenburg-Strelitz 

Grand  Duchy  of  Oldenburg 

Duchy  of  Brunswick 

Duchy  of  Saxe-Meiningen 

Duchy  of  Sax©- A 1  ten  burg 

Duchy  of  Saxe-Coburg-Ootha 

Duchy  of  Anhalt 

Principality  of  Schwarsburg-Sondershau- 

sen 

Principality  of  Schwarzburg-Rudolstadt.. 

Principality  of  Waldeck 

Principality  of  Reuss  (elder  line) 

Principality  of  Reuss  (younger  line) 

Principality  of  Schaumburg-Lippe 

Principality  of  Lippe 

Hansstown  of  Lu  beck 

Hansstown  of  Bremen 

Hansstown  of  Hamburg 

Crown-land  of  Alsace-Lorraine 


Total 
number 
of  estab- 
lish- 
ments. 


15,925 


6,538 

72 

27 

218 

1,560 

168 

20 

1,038 

1,173 

255 

215 

115 

163 

1,510 

4 

1,178 

1,019 

99 

60 

5,072 

176 

75 

73 

83 

609 

24 

15 

15 

88 

110 

8 

3 

3 
4 

3 

218 

109 

1 

15 

7 

4 

15 

1,479 


Of  these  there  are- 


Main 

establish' 

ments. 


14,545 


6,156 

72 

25 

215 

1,544 

159 

18 

1,010 

1,005 

234 

186 

107 

138 

1,441 

2 

1,094 

937 

97 

60 

4,625 

162 

66 

49 

79 

479 

22 

13 

15 

82 

104 

8 

3 

3 

3 

3 

211 

103 

1 

10 

6 

4 

15 

1,229 


Subsidi- 
ary 
establish- 
ments. 


1,380 


382 


2 

3 
16 

9 

2 

28 

168 

21 

29 

8 
25 
69 

2 
84 
82 

2 


447 

14 

9 

24 

4 

130 

2 

2 


Number  of  main  establish- 
ments classed  according 
to  number  of  persons  em- 
ployed. 


Employing— 


1. 


6,647 


2,360 

48 

9 

99 

305 

79 

7 

386 

568 

69 

63 

45 

28 

653 

1 

156 

131 

24 

1 

2.620 

33 

18 

17 

19 

249 

13 

1 

7 


6 

21 

6 

81 

3 

i 

2 

7 

90 

6 

48 

1 

5 

4 

1 

3 

1 

1 

250 

899 

From  2 
to  50. 


6,856 


Over  SO. 


3,246 

23 

16 

110 

l,04i 

80 

11 

568 

415 

150 

108 

53 

93 

574 

1 

902 

791 

64 

47 

1,774 

111 

36 

28 

60 


13 
2C2 


1,043 


550 

1 


6 
195 


S6 
23 
15 
IS 
9 
17 
214 


36 
15 

9 

12 

231 

18 

12 

4 


214 
9 
8 
6 
42 
16 
5 
2 

16 

4 

S 

19 

8 

1 

3 
2 
1 

76 
29 

1 

45 
26 

6 
3 
3 

Hff'i 


248 


KEPORT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  OK  SCHEDULE  K. 


Table  224. — Establishments  and  persons  employed  in  wool  preparing,  spinning,  weath 
ing,  dyeing,  and  Jluishing  in  1907,  in  the  German  Empire,  by  Stales  and  subdivi- 


sions — Continued. 


Persons  employed  inside  eatablisliments  (including  mana* 

gers). 


German  Empire 

Kingdom  of  Prussia 

Province  of  East  Prussia 

Province  of  West  Prussia 

City  of  Berlin 

Province  of  Brandenburg 

Province  of  Pomerania. 

Province  of  Posen 

Province  of  Silesia 

Province  of  Saxony 

Province  of  Schlc^wig-IIolstein 

Province  of  Hanover 

Province  of  Westj)haHa 

Province  of  Hessen-Nassau 

Province  of  Rhineland 

Hoheiuoliem 

Kingdom  of  Bavaria 

North  Bavaria 

South  Bavaria 

Rheinpfalz 

Kingdom  of  Saxony 

Kingdom  of  Wurttemburg 

Grand  Duchy  of  Baden 

Grand  Duchy  of  Hessen 

Grand  Duchy  of  Mecklcnburg-Schwerin . , 

Grand  Dvichy  of  Saxony 

Grand  Duchy  of  Mecklenburg-Strelitz . . . 

Grand  Duchy  of  Oldenburg 

Duchy  of  Brunswick 

Duchy  of  Saxe-Meiningen 

Duchy  of  Saxe-Altenburg 

Duchy  of  Saxe-Coburg-Grotha 

Duchjr  of  Anhalt 

Principality  of  Schwarsburg-Sondershau 

sen 

Principality  of  Schwarzburg-Rudolstadt. . 

Principality  of  Waldeck 

Principality  of  Reuse  (elder  line) , 

Principality  of  Reuss  (younger  lino) 

Principality  of  Schaumburg-Lippe 

Principality  of  lapiw 

Haosstown  of  Luoeck 

Hansstown  of  Bremen 

Hansstown  of  Hamburg 

Crown-land  of  Alsace-Lorraine 


On  June  12, 1907. 


Total. 


Women. 


228,130 


110,170 

269 

77 

1,834 

36,d24 

649 

59 

11,583 

G,161 

3,448 

6,490 

1,617 

38.354 

3 

10,184 

4,732 

2,246 

2,206 

52,359 

4.232 

1,960 

581 

264 

3,613 

68 

2.091 

262 

3.281 

1,395 

66 

212 

2C 

185 

4 

8.452 

8,350 

1 

16 
8 
7 


109,724 


50,950 

179 

38 

756 

17,853 

220 

41 

7,134 

3,440 

1,486 

2.365 

477 

1.002 

15,958 

1 

4.798 

2,188 

1,043 

1,567 

27,934 

2.074 

1,097 

201 

59 

1,603 

27 

918 

159 

1.576 

845 

46 

134 

4 
86 


Married 
women. 


32,037 


Workers 

under  16 

years. 


15,794 


3.960 
4.063 


13,318 

5 

9 

126 

7,102 

32 


2.245 

787 

478 

568 

56 

50 

1,860 


1.179 

257 

575 

347 

8,391 

394 

192 

26 

23 

314 

1 

322 

81 

656 

401 

22 

49 


12 


1,885 
2,209 


3 

I 

1 

SOS 

8     0Q41 


114 

2,448 


7,411 

6 

2 

37 

1,705 

14 

1 

532 

707 

111 

379 

129 

293 

3,610 


Highest 
number  of 
employed 

persons. 


233,442 


953 

266 

202 

485 

3.306 

580 

269 

64 

5 

239 


145 
25 

3,54 

35 

2 

13 


35 


SOO 

213 


47 
1,797 


112,492 

289 

77 

1,893 

37,262 

720 

59 

11,896 

6,360 

3,526 

0,577 

1,660 

2,735 

39,435 

3 

10,474 

4,8.57 

2,342 

3,275 

53,449 

4.243 

1,963 

509 

260 

3,637 

76 

2,094 

278 

3,284 

1,565 

70 

212 

22 

185 

4 

8,884 

9,108 

1 

16 

8 

7 

449 

20,053 


Organisation  of  the  industry  in  Germany. — One  of  the  features  of  the 
German  %\ool  industry  which  distinguishes  it  from  the  industry  in  the 
United  Kingdom  is  the  household  production.  There  are  still  in 
Germany  thousands  of  persons  employed  chiefly  in  weaving  in  their 
homes.  These  w^eavers  are  scattered  widely  over  the  Empire,  but 
are  concentrated  in  western  Saxony  near  the  twin  towns  of  Glauchau 
and  Meerane,  in  and  near  Solingen  north  of  Cologne,  and  in  northern 
Bavaria.  This  household  industry  is  declining  in  competition  with 
the  factory  organization.  In  1 882  there  were  23,603  persons  employed 
in  weaving  in  their  homes;  in  1895,  27,790  persons;  and  in  1907, 
13,724.  But  even  with  this  decline  the  household  inciustry  is  a 
factor  in  production  that  must  be  reckoned  with.  In  addition  to  the 
weaving  there  were  in  1907,  224  persons  employed  in  the  wool  prepa- 


KEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOARD   OK   SCHEDULE   K. 


249 


ratory  processes  in  their  homes,  584  in  spinning,  and  850  in  finishing. 
In  this  connection  the  number  of  hand  looms  is  pertinent.  In  1907 
the  number  of  looms  actually  reported  as  propelled  by  hand  in  Ger- 
many was  15,990,  including  381  nbbon  looms.  The  number  of  power 
looms  reported  was  45,819,  including  206  ribhon  looms.  At  the  same 
time  34,779  looms  were  reported  without  designation  of  the  motive 
power.  Of  the  looms  for  which  the  motive  power  is  actually  reported 
the  hand  looms  are  approximately  equal  to  one-fourth  of  the  number, 
and  if  we  assume  that  the  undesignated  looms  are  in  the  same  pro- 
portion it  is  evident  that  the  hand-loom  production  in  Germany  ia 
still  of  some  importance.  It  should  not  be  inferred  from  what  has 
been  said  that  the  household  industry  and  the  hand-loom  industry  are 
coextensive.  Until  a  few  years  ago  the  looms  in  the  homes  were, 
generally  speaking,  hand  looms,  but  with  the  improvements  in  the 
transmission  of  electric  power  through  the  country  an  increasing  num- 
ber of  these  looms  are  being  converted  into  power  looms,  yet  still 
remain  a  part  of  the  household  industry.  Both  the  number  of  hand 
looms  and  the  number  of  household  establishments,  however,  have 
tended  to  decline. 

The  larger  establishments  in  Germany  have  tended  to  increase;  in 
1882  there  w^ere  666  establishments  employing  more  than  50  persons; 
in  1895,  975  establishments;  and  in  1907,  1,081.  The  average  num- 
ber of  persons  employed  in  one  place  in  establishments  having  over 
50  employees  was  in  1882,  138  persons;  in  1895,  168  persons;  and  in 
1907,  158  persons.  Table  225  presents  in  detail  tlie  extent  and 
organization  of  the  woolen  and  worsted  industry  in  Germany.  It 
was  compiled  from  official  sources  by  the  '^Handworterbuch  der 
Staatswissenschaften '' : 

Table  225. — Number  of  cstahlishments,  persons  employed,  and  motor  power  used  in  wool 
preparing,  spinning,  weaving  {including  carpets),  arul finishing  in  the  German  Empire 
in  1882,  1895,  and  1907. 


Establishments  for— 


Wool  preparing: 

1882 

1895 

1907 

Wool  spinning: 

1882 

1895 

1907 

Wool  weaving: » 

1882 

1895 

^  1907 

Wool  dyeing,  print- 
ing, and  finishing: 

1882 

1805 

1907 

Total: 

1882 

1895 

1907 


J) 
•->  a 

3.2 

o 
H 


o 


11 

gS 


3  «  B  R 


1.354 
9G9 
873 

5,859 
2,611 
1,270 

28.201 
26,035 
12, 701 


2,678 
1,789 
1,705 

.38, 092 
31.404 
16,549 


1,025 

a34 

787 

5.181 
2.320 
1,193 


5,798 
16,358 
21,612 

47. 347 
54.448 
58,498 


26.026  108,007 
23.756  i  153, 098 
11,566  132,487 


2,424 
1,053 
1,585 


20,611 
22,731 
25,251 


34,656  181,763 
28,569  246,635 
15.131  ,237,848 


a 

o  • 


21 
40 
60 

164 
185 
212 


3  0)  Ol 


3.226 
11,846 
15,458 

28.670 
42.468 
46,361 


406  51.294 
605  97, 668 
669  95, 620 


75 

85 

120 

666 

975 

1,081 


8.734 
11,880 
13,746 


5-3 
•C  ea 


g  O 


0) 


.=,.3  ^ 


3  V  R  0^ 


196 
105 
220 

1,915 
705 
209 

19.122 

19,755 

9,648 


288 
245 
512 


91,924  ,  21,521 
163,862  1  20,810 
171,185  10,589 


119 
204 
224 

1.990 
931 

584 

23,  C03 
27,790 
13,724 


461 
891 
860 


26, 173 
29,816 
15, 382 


CO  jS> 
3S  O 

03  ^ 
♦i  bo 

2^  • 

fc42fe 
III 


176 
382 


902 
879 


1.507 
1,584 


827 
866 


e 

o 
W 


9.701  ! 

25,288        1,386 


61,  703 
86,515 


2,639 


6.3.746    

78,776  *      4,184 


16.873 
27,071 


2,868 


3.412   152,023 
3,711   217,650 


9,691 


1  Carpet  manufacturing  included. 


250 


BEPOBT  OF  TAKIFF  BOJlRD  OK  SCHEDULE  K. 


BEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD   ON   SCHEDULE   K, 


251 


Persons  employed. — In  1907  the  number  of  persons  employed  in  the 
German  Empire  in  the  preparatory  processes  of  wool  manufacture, 
such  as  sortmg,  combing,  etc.,  was  21,612;  in  spinning,  58,498;  in 
weaving,  132,487  (including  9,718  persons  engaged  in  carpet  weaving) ; 
and  in  finisliing  processes,  25,251.  Tliis  makes  237,848  persona 
employed  in  wool  manufactures  in  Germany,  excluding  103,996 
engaged  in  producing  hosiery  and  knit  goods  from  cotton,  wool,  and 
other  textile  fiber,  and  7,298  engaged  in  the  production  of  all  kinds 
of  felts,  including  toys.  This  number  (237,848)  is  a  decrease  of  3.56 
per  cent  from  the  number  of  employees  reported  in  1895,  but  an  in- 
crease of  30.86  per  cent  over  the  number  reported  in  1882. 

Mechanical  power  and  equipment — ^Tlie  number  of  wool-working 
establishments,  including  carpets  but  excluding  the  knit  and  felt 
industries,  employing  motor  power  in  the  German  Empire  in  1907 
was  3,711.  Tne  power  employed  amounted  to  217,650  horsepower 
and  9,691  electric  kilowatts,  'the  mechanical  equipment  of  the  wool- 
working  industries,  including  carpets  but  excluding  knit  and  felt 
industries,  in  the  German  Empire  is  presented  in  Table  226.  All 
figures,  except  those  for  woolen  spindles,  are  from  the  "Hand- 
worterbuch  der  Staatswissenschaften.^' 

Table  226. — Mechanwal  equipment  of  the  wool-worhing  milh  of  the  German  Empire  in 

1907. 


Name  of  machine. 


Wool  preparing: 

Cards 

Combing  machines 

Bcouriiig  machines 

Carbomzing  machines 

Spinning: 

Woolen  producing  spindles 

Worsted  producing  spindles 

Woolen  twisting  spindles 

Worsted  twisting  spindles 

Weaving: 

Jacquard  hand  looms 

Jacqiiard  power  looms 

Jacquard  looms  without  special  designation 

Hand  looms  without  Jacquard  attachment 

Power  looms  without  Jacquard  attachment 

Looms  without  motive  power  d«vsignated  and  without  Jacquard  attachments. 

Hand  looms  without  further  dtisi^nation 

Power  looms  without  further  designation 

Hand  ribbon  looms 

Power  ribbon  looms 

Ribbon  looms  without  further  designatioa -• 

Carpet  manufacture: 

Jacquard  looms 

Looms  without  Jacquard  attachment 

Hand  looms  without  furthft  designation. 

Wool  dyeing,  printing,  and  fimslung :  • 

Fulling  machines 

Cylinder  printing  machines 

Cloth  washing  machines 

Hydrcxxtracting  maciiinfis 

Dyeing  apparatus 

Teasling  or  napping  macliines 

Drying  machines 

Shearing  machines 


Presses. 

gteam  finishing  machines. 


Number. 


2,119 
378 
107 

1,956.. 342 

2,263,364 

23,0.36 

555,705 

486 

2,379 

6,984 

15,0;^2 

42.972 

27,635 

91 

262 

381 

206 

lOO 

778 

4;oii 

48 

2,306 

267 
1,894 

926 
1.816 
1,831 

246 
1,713 
1,297 

423 


1  The  "  Handwdrterbuch  "  report  1,721.    If  by  a  card  is  meant  tlie  same  as  Is  meant  in  the  United  States 
tbis  figure  would  seem  to  be  too  low. 


Table  226  shows  several  significant  things.  In  the  first  place,  it 
shows  that  the  worsted  industry  in  Germany  has  passed  the  woolen 
industry  in  size.  There  were  in  1907,  2,263,364  worsted  producing 
spindles  as  agamst  1,956,342  woolen  spindles.  The  2,119  combs  also 
indicates  the  strength  of  the  worsted  mdustry.  This  means,  among 
other  things,  that  Germany  will  soon  cease  to  be>the  chief  market  for 
French  and  English  tops  and  yams.  She  will  tend  more  and  more 
to  import  raw  wool  which  her  industry  wiQ  work  up  into  tops  and 
yarns  instead  of  importing  wool  in  partially  manufactured  form. 
Secondly,  the  table  snows  approximately  the  extent  of  the  hand  as 
against  the  power  loom  in  the  industry.  In  1907  there  were  in 
addition  to  4,837  carpet  looms,  34,779  looms  for  which  the  motive 
power  was  not  specified,  45,819  power  looms,  and  15,990  hand  looms. 
If  we  assume  that  the  unspecified  looms  are  divided  between  hand 
and  power  in  the  same  proportion  as  the  specified  looms,  there  are 
about  three  times  as  many  power  looms  as  nand  looms  in  Germany. 

Wool  scouring  and  carhonizing  in  Germany. — There  were  in  1907, 
34  wool  scouring  and  carbonizing  establishments  in  Germany. 
Thirty-one  of  these  filled  out  schedules  on  production  and  the  remain- 
ing three  were  so  small  that  it  was  said  they  might  be  disregarded. 
The  31  establishments  scoured  or  carbonized  55,219,520  pounds  of 
wool  and  carbonized  7,182,510  jpounds  of  noils  and  waste.  They 
turned  out  23,736,487  pounds  of  scoured  wool,  of  which  14,943,947 
pounds  were  merino  wool  and  8,792,555  were  crossbred  wool.  They 
also  turned  out  2,107,075  pounds  of  carbonized  wool  and  5,041,283 
pounds  of  carbonized  noils.  The  difference  between  these  figures  of 
production  and  those  given  above  shows  the  loss  in  scouring  or 
carbonizing.  \ 

Wool  combing  in  Germany, — Forty  combing  estabhshments  were 
reported  in  Qermany  in  1907.  These  estabhshments  consumed 
310,959,284  pounds  of  wool,  65.5  per  cent  of  which  was  merino  wool 
and  34.5  per  cent  of  which  was  crossbred  wool.  From  this  wool 
136,771,863  pounds  of  tops  were  produced,  of  which  56.4  per  cent  were 
merino  tops  and  43.6  per  cent  crossbred  tops.  The  quantity  of  noils 
was  16,165,415  pounds,  and  other  wastes  12,761,947  pounds.  = 

Worsted  yam  production  in  Germany. — In  1907  there  were  107 
worsted  spinning  and  twisting  establishments.  The  following  figures 
are  for  105  estabhshments,  the  two  wliich  are  omitted  beinginsignifi- 
cant.  These  mills  contained  2,263,364  spinning  spindles.  They  con- 
sumed 156,364,780  pounds  of  tops,  52.1  per  cent  oi  which  were  merino 
tops  and  47.9  per  cent  crossbred  tops.  From  this  was  produced 
146,583,184  pounds  of  single-ply  yarn.  The  loss  in  yarn  waste  was 
8,426,438  pounds;  84,275,846  pounds  of  this  one-ply  yarn  was  twisted 
and  it  produced  83,380,113  pounds  of  twisted  yarn,  as  follows: 

Pounds. 

2-ply  twist 41,967,969 

3-ply  twist 4,396,874 

4  or  more  ply  twist 28, 010, 305 

Unspecified  twist 9, 004, 965 

Finally,  the  total  value  of  worsted  yam,  one-ply,  twisted,  bleached, 
unbleached,  dyed,  etc.,  produced  was  $97,774,432. 


252  BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOAM)  ON   SCHEDUI-E  K. 

Production  of  carded  woolen  yam  in  Germany.— The  q^uantity  of 
materials  worked  up  for  their  own  use  in  carded  woolen  spinning  and 
weaving  establishments  making  woolen  and  half-woolen  fabncs  in 
1907  was  as  follows:  ^^^^^^ 

Sheep's  wool  in  scoured  condition 61. 012, 395 

Noils  and  wool  wastes 20, 405,  zm 

l^ttfc:;:::::::::::::::::::::::;::::::::::::::::::::^^  a'lP^fo 

Other  spiimable  materials 2, 088,  362 

Total 207,176,105 

The  amount  of  carded  woolen  yarn  made  from  the  above  materials 
for  use  in  the  mills  where  spun  was  199,661,557  pounds  and  was 
valued  (including  twisting^  dyeing,  etc.)  at  $54,492,458.  These  same 
mills  also  made  24,230,313  pounds  of  carded  woolen  yarn  on  commis- 
sion for  outside  mills.  ,   ,     , ,  ,       i  . 

Shoddy  produced  in  Germany.— The  amount  of  shoddy  produced  m 
the  cardecf  woolen  spinning  mills  of  Germany  in  1907  was  67,115,939 
pounds.  In  addition,  mills  producing  only  shoddy  gro.und  up  on  theu- 
own  account  in  1907  83,146,635  pounds  of  rags,  etc.,  into  55,959,613 
pounds  of  shoddy,  valued  at  $4,760,575.  These  mills  also  made 
8,779,328  pounds  of  shoddy  on  commission  for  outside  mills.  , 

Production  of  carded  woolm  fabrics  in  Gerirmny.— The  weaving  estab- 
lishments producing  woolen  and  half-woolen  fabrics  m  Germany  in 
1907  used  143,731,263  pounds  of  carded  woolen  yarn  produced  m 
the  same  estabhshments  and  137,119,504  pounds  of  textile  hber 
received  from  elsewhere.  From  tiiis  matenal  were  produced  249,- 
902,475  pounds  of  men's,  women's,  and  children's  fabrics  (including 
linings),  valued  at  $184,333,068.  In  addition,  these  weaving  estab- 
lishments produced  on  commission  20,424,071  pounds  of  mens, 
women's,  and  children's  fabrics,  including  Mnings. 

WOOL    MANUFACTUEES    IX    FRANCE. 

Distrihution.— The  Department  of  the  North,  which  borders  on 
Belgium,  is  by  far  the  most  important  wool-manufacturmg  center 
in  France.  This  Department  has  almost  a  complete  monopoly  of 
combing.  In  1906  it  employed  87  per  cent  of  the  persons  employed 
in  wool  combmg  in  France  and  73  per  cent  of  the  persons  employed 
in  France  in  spinning  worsted  yarn.  It  emplojred  51  per  cent  of  the 
persons  employed  in  weavmg  wool  fabrics  in  France.  It  is  also  rep- 
resented in  other  operations  of  manufacture.  The  chief  centers  m 
the  Department  are  the  adjoining  towTis  of  Koubaix  and  Tourcomg. 
Fourmies  in  the  same  Department  and  Rheims  m  the  Department  of 
Mame  do  some  combing,  but  they  are  declming  m  competition  with 
Roubak.  There  are  wool-working  miUs  scattered  over  the  Depart- 
ments of  Aisne  and  Ardennes.  The  town  of  Elboeuf  m  Normandy 
compares  with  Leeds  in  England ;  it  does  a  miscellaneous  business  in 
both  woolens  and  worsteds.  Vienne  on  the  Rhone  is  the  center  of 
shoddy  cloth,  and  the  Department  of  the  Rhone  employs  48  per  cent 
of  the  persons  engaged  in  the  manufacture  of  blankets.  Mazamet  m 
the  Department  of  Tarn  is  the  center  of  wool  pulling.  Ihe  Depart- 
ment of  Somme  leads  in  the  production  of  velvets  of  wool  and  cotton, 
and  the  Department  of  Aisne  has  a  monopoly  of  makmg  plushes. 


BEPOET   OF   TARIFF   BOAKD   ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


253 


The  number  of  persons  employed,  the  number  of  establishments,  and 
the  distribution  of  each  suodivision  of  avooI  manufactures  in  France 
is  presented  in  Table  227 : 

Table  227. — Summary  of  wool  manufactures  in  France. 


Total  persons 
employed. 

Number 

of  es- 
tablish- 

A p  p  0  r  tion- 
ment     of 
e  s  t  a  b  I  ish- 

• 

Industry. 

1906 

1901 

1896 

ments 
in  which 

over  6 
persons 
are  cm- 
ployed. 

ments      ac- 
cording    to 
number    of 
olGcials  and 
wage    earn- 
ers in  1906. 

Principal  departments 
of     production— Per 
cent  for  each  depart- 
ment   indicated    of 
total     number    em- 
ployed in  the  jndu&* 
try  in  France. 

1901 

44 
39 

115 

54 
23 

172 

16 
101 

40 
202 

21 

283 

65 

18 

1 
4 
6 

44 

63 

40 

1896 

6  to 
50 

51  to 
500 

15 
4 

8 

16 

6 

49 

7 

90 

12 

100 

13 

95 

43 

12 

1 

Over 
500 

1 

9 

5 

1 

10 

1 

9 

15 
1 
....  - 

- 

WOOL. 

Wool  pulling 

2,200 
1,000 

3,000 

2,500 

1,300 

9,900 

10,600 

ir.,eoo 

2,500 
39,400 

2,800 

27,700 

28,000 

3,900 

100 
050 
200 

4,400 

7,500 

7,100 

1,750 
1,050 

2,000 

2,200 

1,450 

8,600 

10,300 

15.900 

2,000 

42,400 

2,000 

26,000 

25,800 

4,000 

400 
750 
200 

4,500 

7,100 

7,000 

1,150 
800 

650 

1,450 

5,000 

7,150 

11,100 

17,()00 

1,300 

48,500 

1,400 

29,900 

36,300 

2,600 

1,000 

600 

1,050 

5,100 

6,100 

5,500 

36 

26 

17 

28 

104 

125 

21 

128 

22 

281 

24 
325 

142 

20 

2 
3 

24 

05 
64 

37 

29 
35 

107 

38 

17 

122 

"b 
27 
92 

7 

179 

7 
5 

5 
17 
29 
24 

Tarn  (95). 

Scouring,  burr  picking,  car- 
bonizing, and  washing  of 
wool. 

Beating,  breaking,  and  sorting 
of  wool. 

Manufacture  of  felt  and  felt 
cloth. 

Spinning  of  wool  and  spinning 
of  waste  of  wool. 

Carding  of  wool  and  spinning 
of  carded  wool. 

Combing  of  wool 

Spinning  of  combed  wool 

W  inding  and  twisting  of  wool. . 

Wool  weaving  and  manufac- 
turing of  woolen  fabrics,  etc. 

Manufacture  of  elastic  fabrics. . 

Manufacture  of  cloth:  fulling 
and  burling,  etc.,  of  cloth. 

Manufacture  of  woolen  goods, 
fancy  wool  fabrics,  and  cloth. 

Manufacture  of  velvets,  of  cot- 
ton or  wool. 

Manufacture  of  plushes 

Shearing  of  velvet  and  plushes. 

Bouches  -  du  -  Rhone 
(30),  Nord  (25). 

Nord  (33),  Seine  -  In- 
fgrieure  (18),  Tam 
(18),  Mame  (9). 

Charente  (28),  Mame 
(9),  Ardennes  (12). 

Nord  (25). 

Nord    (24),    Ardennes 

(19). 
Nord  (87),  Mame  (13). 
Nord  (73). 

Nord  (64),  Seine  (24). 
Nord  (51),  Marne  (19), 

Aisne  (13). 
Seine-Inf6rieure     (59), 

Loire  (20). 
Seine-Inf6rieure    (25), 

Isere  (14),  lam  (11), 

Ardennes  (8). 
Nord  (100). 

Somme  (76),  Nord  (15). 

Aisne  (100). 

Sonmie  (88),  Rhone  (9). 

Manufacture  of  cashinere  and 

shawls. 
Manufacture  of  blankets 

Manufacture    of    carpet    and 

darning  of  carpets. 
Manufacture   of   upholstering 

fabric. 

1 

27 
32 

21 

2 

1 

Eure  (50),  Aisne  (30), 

Nord  (20). 
Rhone  (48),  Loiret  (18), 

Nord  (18). 
Creuse  (36),  Nord  (31), 

Oise  (17). 
Nord  (85). 

Organization. — The  combing  business  in  France  resembles  that  of 
England  in  organization.  It  is  a  distinct  industry  and  as  a  rule  does 
combing  on  commission  for  merchants  or  spinners.  Spinning  and 
weaving  are  also  specialized.  The  French  industry  is  predominantly 
worsted;  its  chief  supremacy  is  in  making  soft  dress  goods  from 
mule-spun  yarns.  Tnis  is  the  chief  technical  distinction  between 
the  English  and  French  industries.  The  former  excels  in  producing 
goods  from  hard  spun  yarns  which  have  been  drawn  and  spun  on  the 
frame  system;  the  latter  excels  in  the  production  of  soft  goods  made 
from  the  full,  sc^f t  yarns  drawn  and  spun  by  the  French  system.  The 
rural  hand  loom  holds  a  very  important  place  in  the  French  industry. 
Accurate  statistics  of  recent  date  as  to  number  of  hand  and  power 
looms  are  not  available,  but  in  1887  there  were  44,682  power  looms 


254 


BEPOKT  OF  TAKIFi^'  BOAKD  ON  SCHEDULE  K* 


BEPORT  OF  TAEIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


255 


ill  I 
'■■■If  I 


**l||l" 


and  25,399  hand  looms  in  France.  While  it  is  certain  that  the  num- 
ber of  hand  looms  has  declined  since  1887,  it  is  safe  to  say  that  there 
are  still  between  15,000  and  20,000  in  the  country.  These  looms  are 
closely  connected  with  France's  supremacy  in  the  production  of 
novelties  and  artistic  fabrics  of  wool.  The  constant  change  in  fashion 
to  which  large  mills  witli  difficulty  adjust  themselves  are  met  by  the 
adaptability  and  skill  of  tlie  hand  weaver.  They  find  time  to  give 
character  and  individuality  to  theu*  work.  In  some  parts  of  France 
the  looms  in  the  homes  are  now  run  by  electric  power.  As  electric 
power  is  transmitted  through  the  country  this  improvement  will  be 
adopted  in  the  homes  more  and  more,  so  that  a  decline  in  hand  looms, 
which  will  probably  be  rapid,  does  not  necessarily  mean  a  decline  in 
the  household  industry. 

The  household  weavers  are  organized  by  a  middle  man,  called  in 
French  " contremaitre  pour  tissage  h  domicile.''  He  takes  orders 
from  some  large  domestic  or  foreign  firm  for  a  particular  fabric,  and 
then  bargains  with  tlie  home  weavers  for  the  product.  He  furnishes 
the  yam  and  sometimes  the  Jacquard'  harness.  Nine  hundred  and 
eighty-five  persons  were  reported  by  the  French  census  of  1906  as 
having  the  occupation  of  ^' contremaitre  pour  tissage  k  domicile." 
Household  weavers  have  been  driven  almost  entirely  from  the  lai^c 
centers  of  production,  but  are  still  found  in  considerable  numbere  m 
the  villages  near  Cambrai,  Le  Cateau,  St.  Quentin,  and  in  various 
parts  of  the  Departments  of  the  North,  Aisne,  and  Somme. 

Persons  employed  and  mechanical  eqaifment — In  1906  the  French 
census  reported  a  little  over  171,000  persons  employed  in  that  country 
in  wool  manufactures.  Ten  thousand  six  hundred  of  these  were 
employed  in  combing  wool,  16,600  in  spinning  worsted  yam,  39,400  ir  j 
weaving  wool  fabrics,  and  the  others  are  variously  distributed  amonj^^' 
the  different  departments  of  the  industry  as  indicated  above  in" 
Table  205.  There  were  in  1910  approximatelv  2,000  combs  in  opera^ 
tion  in  France.  Her  producing  worsted  spindles  numbered  1 ,997,186, 
and  twisting  worsted  spindles  368,412.     The  carded  woolen  industry, 


pow 
hand  looms  one-third  as  many. 

Production  in  France. — Statistics  relating  to  production  in  Franco 
are  meager,  but  some  figures  may  be  given  which  indicate  the  outputJ 
The  RoubaLx  consular  district,  which  includes  Roubaix,  Tourcomg,' 
Le  Cateau,  and  Fourmies,  has  a  practical  monopoly  in  the  produc-, 
tion  of  tops  or  combed  wool.  It  is  the  custom  in  France  to  send  the 
tops  produced  to  the  conditioning  houses  before  they  are  turned  over 
by  the  commission  comber  to  the  spinner,  m  order  to  determine  the 
l^al  weight  (see  p.  105).  The  amount  of  tops,  therefore,  passmg 
through  the  conditioning  houses  of  the  Roubaix  district  is  a  good  index 
of  the  amount  produced.  The  United  States  consul  reports  that  in 
1910, 132,701 ,032  pounds  were  conditioned  in  the  district  of  Roubaix. 

M.  G.  Seydoux  of  Paris  estimates  the  production  of  worsted  vara 
in  France  in  1910  at  110,075,000  pounds,  valued  at  $65,455,000;  and 
of  woolen  yam,  82,117,000  pounds,  valued  at  $29,975,000.^ 

I  These  statistics  are  published  in  the  "Rapport  de  la  Commission  Permanente  des  Valeurs  de  Douane" 
(acflsioii  de  1911).  The  section  of  this  report  wlatiug  to  wool  (pp.  332-«>t))  is  the  most  valuable  existing 
surrey  of  the  industry  in  France. 


SUMMARY  OF  WOOL  MANUFACTURES. 

Belaium,  Italy ,  Aiistria,  Ritssia,  and  Japan. — Ranking  next  only  to 
the  United  States,  the  United  Kingdom,  Germany,  and  France  in 
wool  manufactures,  are  Belgium,  Italy,  Austria-Hungary,  and  Rus- 
sia. In  comparison  with  the  former  group,  this  group,  it  is  true,  is  of 
minor  importance,  but  it  is  nevertheless  worthy  of  consideration. 
Belgium  is  located  so  that  she  does  work  for  the  United  Kingdom, 
Germany,  and  France.  She  furnishes  England  with  a  large  quantity 
of  woolen  yarn  annually  and  much  of  the  wool  used  by  the  industries 
of  the  continent  is  scoured  in  her  large  scouring  plants  in  order  to  save 
freight.  The  most  important  city  is  Verviers.  The  industry  in 
Italy  is  located  in  the  north  where  there  is  an  abundance  of  water 
power,  used  either  direct  or  to  make  electricity.  Her  labor  supply 
is  good  and,  while  her  products  are  not  a  serious  competitor  in  neutral 
markets  as  yet,  they  will  become  increasingly  important.  Austria- 
Hungary's  statistics  are  not  recent.  In  1890  her  industry  was  said 
to  have  429,475  woolen  spindles  and  276,239  worsted  spindles.  Her 
imports  are  a  better  index  of  her  production.  In  1910  she  imported 
60,019,353  pounds  of  raw  wool,  24,002,362  pounds  of  tops,  1,939,607 
pounds  of  woolen  yam,  and  15,073,512  pounds  of  worsted  yam. 
Lodz,  in  Poland,  and  Moscow  are  the  most  important  wool  manufac- 
turing centers  in  Russia.  Russia's  industry  consumes  a  part  of  the 
merino  wool  which  she  produces  and  a  considerable  quantity  of  wool 
which  she  imports  (94,975,797  pounds  in  1909).  She  also  works  up 
'some  of  her  coarse,  native  wools,  especially  the  Bokhara  wool,  into 
blankets  and  army  and  peasant  cloths.  Within  recent  years  wool 
manufacturers  in  Japan  nave  shared  in  the  industrial  expansion  of 
that  country.  She  has  no  raw  wool  supply  of  her  own,  but  Japanese 
[are  buying  extensively  at  the  Austrahan  sales.  Her  chief  product  is 
mousseline  de  laine,  a  light  dress  goods  which  is  either  left  plain  or 

Jrinted  with  oriental  designs.     The  output  of  wool  manufactures  in 
apan  in  1909  was  as  follows: 

HMousseline  de  laine  (37,806,745  yards) $5, 034,  774 

Flannel  (77,603  pieces) 193, 965 

Wool  serge 347, 203 

Wool  blankets 515, 868 

Rugs  and  shawls  (247,350  pieces) 190, 257 

Wool  cloth 902,000 

Total 7, 184, 067 

Comparison  of  leading  manufacturing  countries. — Any  comparison 
^of  products  of  wool  manufactures  in  the  United  States,  United  King- 
dom, Germany,  and  France,  would  be  misleading  because  of  the 
|variety  of  products,  the  years  for  which  output  is  reported,  and  the 
variations  m  classification.  Nor  are  production  statistics  for  foreign 
countries  extensive  enough  to  warrant  comparison  with  our  own. 
This  is  true,  however,  in  only  a  limited  way  of  the  mechanical  equip- 
ment of  the  mills.  Machinery  in  the  mills  does  not  change  so  quickly, 
so  that  comparisons  made  between  different  years  for  different 
countries  are  still  approximately  right.  Table  228  presents  the 
mechanical  equipment  and  persons  employed  in  the  woolen  and 
worsted  mills  of  leading  countries. 


256 


BEPOKT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


BEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


257 


Table  22S. —Prodwthe  equiprnent  of  woolen  and  worsted  mills  in  leading  producing 

countries. 


Items. 


United 
States 
(1909).! 


Nnmber  of  establlshmenta . 

Sets  of  cards 

Combing  machines 

Spinning  spindles: 

Woolen 

Worsted 

Twisting  spindles 

Looms 

Horsepower  employed 

Persons  em^oyed 


fill 

C,061 
1,978 

1.785,205 

1,655,400 

723,704 

72,185 

848,283 

163,431 


United 

Kingdom 

(1904). 


2.218 
6,381 
2,924 

2,707,147 

2,844,412 

1,066,529 

103,082 


Oermany 
(1907). 


•  261, 192 


•  15,925 
1,721 
2,119 

1.956,342 
2,263,364 
578, 741 
«  95, 841 
214.856 
228,130 


France 

(1906  and 

1909). 


>  1,357 
■"2,666 


684,619 

1,997,186 

396,198 

6  55,000 


Belgium 
(1909). 


274,210 

288,878 
93,592 


171.350 


1  Macbinery  for  L^nlted  States  does  not  Include  a  few  cotton  machines  in  woolen  and  worsted  mills. 

« Includes  household  establlshmenta. 

;  &S!^X^^^^^^^  the  number,  but  doe.  not  include  747  ribbon  loom. 

"^^^D^  no\*^indude  hand  looms,  which  are  approximately  one-third  as  numerous  as  power  looms. 
•  Includes  several  thousand  persons  employed  in  shoddy  industry. 

Table  228  presents  one  problem  which  can  only  be  stated  here. 
Those  wishing  an  answer  to  it  must  consult  the  part  of  the  Tariff 
Board  report  which  deals  with  efficiency.  The  work  done  by  one 
comb,  one  spmdie,  one  loom,  or  one  person  m  one  country  is  not 
necessarily  equivalent  to  the  work  done  by  a  machme  of  hke  name 
or  a  person  in  another  country.    The  speed  of  a  spmdie  may  be 

f  eater  in  the  United  States  than  in  Germany ;  the  looms  of  the  U mted 
Lngdom  may  run  more  picks  to  the  minute  or  have  on  the  average 
a  wKler  reed  space  than  the  looms  in  France ;  the  production  turned 
out  by  a  man  or  woman  in  an  American  mill  may  be  greater  for  a 

flven  time  than  by  a  man  or  woman  abroad.  These  facts  must  be 
ept  in  mind  in  studying  this  table.  The  table  shows  m  general, 
however,  that  the  United  Kingdom  has  the  greatest  productive 
capacity;  that  the  French  industry  is  predominantly  worsted;  and 
that  Germany  now  ranks  well  up  among  the  woolen  and  worsted- 
producing  countries.  It  also  shows  that  the  mdustry  in  the  United 
States  is  ahnost  as  large  as  the  industry  in  Germany  and  the  Umted 

Kingdom.  /•       7     mi.    .c     i 

Commerce  of  the  world  in  wool  and  manufactures  oj  wool, —  Ine  Una! 
table  of  this  report  presents  the  imports  and  exports  of  raw  wool, 
reworked  wool,  tops,  yarns,  and  manufactures  of  wool  for  practically 
all  the  countries  of  tbe  world  that  pubhsh  import  and  export  sta- 
tistics. A  careful  study  of  this  table  wiU  reveal  the  source  and  des- 
tination of  all  the  wool  and  wool  products  which  enter  mto  the  com- 
merce of  the  world.  It  shows  the  great  exportmg  and  great  import- 
ing nations,  and  in  general  the  distribution  of  wool  products  to  the 
various  countries.    These  facts  are  presented  in  Table  229. 


OS 

o 
o 


•D 

» 

IS 

i 

e 

8 
:§ 

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BEPOBT  OF   TABIFF  BOABD  02f   SCHEDULE  K. 


EEPOKT   OF   TARIFF   BOARD   02^   SCHEDULE   K. 


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PART  I:  GLOSSARY  ON  SCHEDULE  K 


APPENDIXES  A  AND  B 


2a 


Hi      ' 


III 


1  i 


mil 


Appendix  A.— DUTIES  ON  RAW  WOOL  AND  CERTAIN  ARTICLES 
OF  WOOL  MANUFACTURE  IN  AUSTRIA-HUNGARY,  BELGIUM, 
CANADA,  FRANCE,  GERMANY,  ITALY,  JAPAN,  RUSSIA,  AND 
SWITZERLAND. 

The  United  States,  by  virtue  of  its  most-favored-nation  and  com- 
mercial treaties  with  Austria-Hungary,  Belgium,  Germany,  Italy, 
Japan,  Russia,  and  Switzerland,  enjoys  the  lowest  rates  of  duty 
applicable  to  imports  of  wool  and  woolens  into  said  countries.  In 
the  case  of  Canada  and  France,  however,  such  imports  are  dutiable 
under  their  general  tariff  when  originating  from  the  United  States. 
Canada  has  a  "triple"  tariff — the  general  tariff  for  countries  which 
have  no  most-favored-nation  treaty  with  it;  the  intermediate  tariff, 
the  duties  under  which  are  applied  to  imports  from  most-favored- 
nation  treaty  countries;  and  the  British  preferential  tariff,  which, 
as  the  name  indicates,  covers  imports  from  Great  Britain  and  certain 
of  its  colonies.  France  has  a  "dual"  tariff — the  general  tariff,  cor- 
responding to  the  Canadian  general  tariff;  and  the  minimum  tariff, 
corresponding  to  the  Canadian  intermediate  tariff.  The  rates  under 
all  three  tanffs  in  the  case  of  Canada,  and  under  both  in  the  case  of 
France,  are  given  in  the  annexed  tables  covering  those  countries,  for 
purposes  of  comparison. 

The  rates  g^ven  for  all  the  countries  enumerated  have  been  coUated 
from  the  original  tariffs,  the  Brussels  translations,  and  tariff  clippings 
from  numerous  papers  containing  information  in  advance  of  the  Brus- 
sels supplements  regarding  changes  in  rates  by  virtue  of  treaties,  etc., 
received  up  to  November  9. 

The  units  of  weight,  measure,  and  currency  that  obtain  in  these 
countries  have  been  converted  into  the  units  ootaining  in  the  United 
States,  and,  with  one  or  two  exceptions,  the  rate  of  duty  has  been 
reduced  to  the  100-pound  basis.  Because  of  this  conversion  of  the 
units  of  weight  and  measure  into  United  States  standards,  the  divid- 
ing lines  should  only  be  considered  as  very  close  approximations  and 
not  as  absolute  dividing  lines  for  classification  purposes  when  enumer- 
ated under  paragraph  numbers  where  the  classification  of  a  piece  of 
cloth,  for  instance,  varies  in  the  original  tariff  according  to  the 
variation  in  the  weight  of  the  cloth  of  1  gram  per  square  meter.  This 
is  necessitated  by  the  fractional  loss  in  conversion,  sufficient,  at 
times,  to  seemingly  bring  a  given  piece  of  cloth  under  one  dividing 
line  as  converted,  when  it  should  properly  come  under  the  next  preced- 
mg  dividing  line. 

263 


■ 


A* 


264 


EEPOKT  OF   TABIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


Austria-Hungary. 
Duties  paid  on  raw  wool  and  certain  articles  of  wool  when  imported  from  the  United  States, 


TartJl 
Ko. 


iH>1 


220 


221 
223 
225 


220 


227 
228 
229 


Article, 


Wool,  raw,  washed,  combed,  dyed,  lileached,  millpd,  and  waste 

Ad. — Wool  in  the  grease,  washed,  eoiiihed,  and  waste. 
Note.— Wool  combed  in  the  shape  of  coarse  tlireads,  half  finished,  is  dutiable  under 

No.  225. 
Wadding  of  wool  and  hair;  hat  wadding  and  hat  felt  (the  felting  merely  begxm,  not 

workedj 

Mohair,  alpaca  (also  mottled  alpaca)  and  genappes  yani;  all  these  of  only  one  or  two 

threads,  unbleached,  imported  at  certain  specified  customhouses 

Combed  yam,  not  specially  mentioned: 
{A}  Unbleached;  single— 

1.  Up  to  No.  45  metric 

2.  Over  No.  45  metric 

(B)  Unbleached,  of  two  or  more  threads— 

1.  Up  to  No.  45  metric 

2.  Over  No.  45  metric 

Note.— Combed  yam,  not  specially  mentioned,  unbleached,  of  one  or  two  threads, 

over  No.  30  and  up  to  No.  4o  metric,  inclusive,  for  the  manufacture  ol  passementerie, 

by  permission  and  under  control 

Double  yarn  called  '  lasting"  of  No.  40  up  to  No.  (i5  metric,  for  the  weaving  of  lasting, 

by  permission  and  under  control 

(<7)  Bleached,  dyed,  printed,  single — 

1.  Up  to  No.  45  metric 

2.  Over  No.  45  metric 

(D)  Bleachwl,  dyed,  printed,  of  two  or  more  threads  — 

1.  Up  to  No.  45  metric 

2.  Over  No.  45  metric 

(E)  Mixed,  dyed,  or  printed  in  the  wool,  also  combed  yam  mixed  with  unbleached 
wool — 

1.  Single 

2.  Of  two  or  more  threads,  also  yams  of  threads  of  different  colors 

Note. — Printed  yarns  for  the  warp  of  carpets,  by  permission  and  under  control 

Carded  yam,  and  spun  yam  resembling  carded  yarn  not  si*etially  mentioned: 

(A )  Unbleached,  single 

(B)  Unbleached,  of  2  or  more  threads 

(C)  Bleached,  dyed,  printed— 

1.  Single 

o.  Bleached,  printed 

6.  Dyed 

2.  Of  2  or  more  threads 

NOTS.— Yam  faintly  colored  in  order  to  render  it  distinct  for  the  purpose  of  weaving 

(yam  intentionally  clouded;)  is  dutiable  as  yam  not  colored.    This  jam  is  distin- 
guished from  dyed  yam  by  its  faint  color,  which  disapiiears  on  its  being  washed  in 
tepid  water  (15'  C). 
Notes  to  Noe.  225  and  226: 

1.  Yam  composed  of  2  strands  of  different  color  (yam  with  1  strand  clouded) 
which  has  received  a  certain  degree  of  twisting  by  the  self-actor  is  considered  as 
single,  and  is  dutiable  under  No.  225  E-1  or  No.  228  C-1. 

2.  Fancy  yam  included  under  No.  225  B-,  D-,  and  E-2,  and  under  No.  226  B- 
and  C-2 

Under  this  heading  are  included  yams  of  2  or  more  strands,  unbleached,  bleached, 
dyed,  printed  or  mixed,  the  spinning  of  which  is  intermpted  by  knots,  loox)s,  spirals, 

61*0* 

Yams  strongly  twisted,  which  form  such  knots  or  loops  bv  touching  each  other  and 
which  come  straight  again  when  pulled,  are  not  included  under  this  heading,  but  are 
dutiable  according  to  their  kind. 

Yam  made  up  for  retail  sale 

Common  woolen  coverlets  ("  Kotzen  ");  halina  cloth;  cloth  list 

Woolen  tissues,  not  otherwise  mentioned,  printed  or  not: 

(A )  Weighing  more  than  1  pound  4  ounces  281  grains  per  square  yard 

(B)  Weighing  more  than  5  ounces  392  grakis  and  up  to  1  pound  4  ounces  281  grains 
per  square  yard ' 

1.  Weighing  more  than  5  ounces  392  graina  and  up  to  14  ounces  325  grains  per 
sauare  yard 

2.  Weighing  more  than  14  ounces  325  grains  and  up  to  1  pound  4  ounces  281 
grains 

(C)  Weighing  5  ounces  392  grains  and  less  per  square  yard 

Notes: 

1.  Chemical  foundation,  mordanted  (woolen  tissues  specified  in  No.  22&-C),  for 
embroidery  aerienne,  with  permission  and  under  control 

2.  Use<l  packing  of  coarse  goat  and  similar  hair  for  further  manufacture  after 
breaking  up  the  tiasue,  by  permission  and  under  control 


Rate  of 

dutv 
(per  ioo 
pounds). 


Free. 


S2. 113 
Free. 


1.104 
1.033 

1.565 
2.67 


Free. 

J"ree. 

2.  07 
3.499 


499 

419 


3.038 
3.499 
2.07 

1.749 
2.67 

2.67 
2.67 
2.302 
3.499 


2.302 


4.78 
2.67 

11.049 

18.416 

>  18.416 

»  16.574 
24. 125 


9.208 
Free, 


I  These  2  rates  were  fixed  by  treaty  with  Germany,  and  are  applicable  to  imports  from  the  United  States. 


EEPOET   OF   TABIFF   BOARD    ON    SCHEDULE    K. 


265 


AusTRiA-HuxGARY — Continued. 

Duties  paid  on  raw  wool  and  certain  articles  *^f  wool  when  irn ported  froni  the  United  States — 

Continued. 


Tariff 
No. 


230 
231 
232 

233 


234 

235 
230 
237 


238 


239 


Article. 


657 


«?) 


Velvet  and  tissues  similar  to  velvet  (with  cut  or  uncut  pile),  printed  or  not 

Ribbons 

1'as.sementerie  and  button-makers'  wares ] . . . 

Knitted  wares  and  hosiery: 

(A)  Knitted  stuffs  and  hosiery  in  the  piece  (to  be  sold  bv  the  rr.eter) 

(5)  Sto^^kingsandsocks— 
l.  ^\'eighing  more  than  2.2046  pounds  p^  dozea  pairs 

a.  With  needlework 

6.  Other 

2.  Weighing  2.2046  yxjunds  or  less  i>er  dozen  pairs 

a.  With  needlework 

6.  Other 

Gloves — 

1.  \Vith  needlework 

2.  Other 

(D)  Not  specially  mentioned — 

1.  AVith  needlework 

2.  Other 

Shawls  and  tissues  similar  to  shawls;  lace  and  lace  kerchief?;  tulle  and  netted  stufls 

similar  to  tulle 

Tissues  embroidered  with  silk 

Tissues  embroidered  with  other  materials 

Carpets: 

(A )  Of  dog,  calf,  or  cattle  hair,  with  or  without  a  slight  admixture  of  wool 

(B)  Knotted  carpets  ( Kniipfteppiche) 

(C;  Other,  and  carpets  of  felt,  printed  or  not 

Felt  and  felt  wares  (except  carpets): 

(A )  Coarse  fclts  of  animal  hair  (whether  cut  out ,  tarred,  lacquered,  or  not) 

{B)  Other  felt  and  felt  wares — 

1.  Not  printed 

2.  Printed 

Articles  for  technical  purposes: 

{A )  Sieve  bottoms,  ropes,  and  cordage,  of  horsehair:  coarse  network,  knotted  nets, 

and  similar  technical  articles  not  otherwise  mentioned 

Curled  horsehair  (krollhaare)  mixed  or  not  with  other  coarse  animal  hair  or 
with  vegetable  fiber 

(B)  Press  cloths  and  filter  cloths  weighing  more  than  14  otmces  325  grains  per 
square  yard 

Note.— Press  cloths  and  filter  cloths  weighing  less  than  14  ounces  325  grains  will  be 
treated  as  woolen  tissues  not  specially  mentioned. 

(C)  Hose,  woven  or  knitted;  girths 

(  2> )  T  ransmission  belts 

AVoolen  rags  for  paper  making 


Rate  of 

duty 

(per  100 

pounds). 


$20,257 
20.257 
20.257 

22.099 

23.02 

23.02 

20.257 

29.465 

29.465 

23.94 

30.386 
27.624 

23.02 
18.416 

43.83 

55.248 

4(3.04 

2.762 
10. 574 
11.049 

2.946 

11.049 
17.495 


3.222 
1.381 
8.747 


8.747 

8.287 
Free. 


266 


BIPOKT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


EMi'IUBl. 

IhUim  paid  on  raw  wool  and  certain  oriieieM  ofimml  when  imported  from  the  Un  ited  States. 


w 
% 


Tariff 

No* 


18 
24 


17 
54 


■ 


64 


Article. 


Woolen  rags 

Carded  woolen  yarn 

Combed  woolen  yarn  (Including  "mixed  yarn"): 
Single- 
Not  dyed 

Dyed 

Twisted— 

Not  dyed 

Dyed 

Yarns  of  tho  goat,  alpaca,  llama,  vicuna,  and  cuniei's  hair 

Yarn  prepared  for  retail  sale  (on  spools,  bobbins,  small  skeins,  turds,  or 
in  any  other  form  for  retail  sale). 

Raw  wool 

Bands  of  woolen  tissue  for  filter  presses 

Felt  rolls  for  alTLxing  to  brick-molding  machines 

Felts  for  use  in  the  manufacture  of  electric  accumulators 

Mantles  of  wool  for  covering  spinning  or  combing  loom  rollers 

Felted  woolen  tissue  for  use  in  faience  and  porcelain  works 

Roller  cloth  for  covering  machine  rollers 

Felted  tissues  and  mantles  of  felted  tissues  for  paper  mills 

Note  to  paragraph  54.— Importers  must  prove  to  the  satisfaction  of  the 
customs  otncials  that  these  are  really  intended  for  the  aforesaid  purposes. 

Shawls  and  scarfs  of  Indian  cashmere 

Woolen  tapestry 

Carpets  and  table  covers  of  wool: 
Floor  carpets— 1 

With  knotted  or  twisted  pile,  weighing  pw  square  yard- 
Less  than  5  pounds  8  ounee^*  208  grains » 

5  pounds  8  ouncea  208  grains  or  more 

Printed' 

Other 

Table  covOTa:»'< 

Mixed  with  silk 

O  ther 

Shawls  and  scarfs  of  wool: » 
Of  pure  wool— • 

Weighing  less  than  7  ounces  l<i2  grains  per  square  yard 

Weighing  7  ounces  162  grains  ana  over  per  square  yard 

Mixed  with  silk,  the  wool  predominating  in  weight  •..'. 

Others 

Woolen  tissues  weighing  less  than  5  ounces  392  grains  per  square  yard: 

Mixed  with  slli,  the  wool  predominating  in  weight 

Other 

All  other  tissues  (Including  coverings  simply  hemmed) 


Rate  of  duty  (per  100 
pounds). 


Free. 

fl).437. 


fi.sn. 

$1.75. 

11.75. 

12.188. 

to.  137. 

S  per  cent  ad  valorem. 


Free. 

5  per 
per 
per 

per 
per 
per 
per 


cent  ad 
cent  ad 
cent  ad 
cent  ad 
cent  ad 
cent  avi 
deut  ad 


valorem, 
ralorem, 
valorem, 
valorem, 
valorem, 
valorem, 
valorem. 


5  per  cent  ad  valorem. 
15  per  cent  ad  valorem. 


S13.1.31. 
$8,754. 
$4..377. 
16.128. 

$26,262. 

$13,131. 


$15,757. 
$12.25«^. 
$36.2t}2. 
17.003. 

$35,034. 
$13,131. 
10  per  cent  ad  valorem. 


» Including  articles  hemmed,  bordered,  or  furnLshed  with  fringes,  Joined  or  not. 

«  Under  this  head  are  included  carpets  with  knotted  or  twisted  pile,  of  any  origin,  including  imitation 
thereof.  Carpets  with  "knotted"  pile  are  those  In  which  the  threads  of  wool  forming  the  pile  are  fixed  hv 
means  of  a  Imot;  the  pile  is  called  ♦'  twisted ' '  when  the  threads  of  wool  completely  surround  the  foundation 
thread. 

»Thi3  category  comprises  only  ''Brussels"  carpets  In  which  the  designs  or  tints  are  obtained  by  printing 
on  tho  warp. 

^Covers  for  card  and  other  tables  manufactured  in  the  same  way  as  carpets,  and  weighing  2  pounds  3 
ounces  164  graias  or  more  per  square  yard,  siiall  be  dutiable  as  carpets. 
6  Excluding  Indian  cashmere  shawls  and  scarfs. 
«  The  following  shall  be  assimilated  to  articles  of  pure  wool  specified  in  this  category: 

a.  Articles  composed  in  greater  part  of  wool  and  a  proportion  of  silk  not  exceeding  5  per  cent,  even 

If  they  contain  textile  materials  other  than  wool  and  silk. 
6.  Articles  of  wool  mixed  with  textile  materials  other  than  silk,  if  the  proportion  of  such  textiles 
does  not  exceed  10  per  cent. 
» Only  articles  containing  more  than  5  per  cent  of  silk  are  regarded  as  being  ml.xed  with  silk.    By  "  silk  " 
is  understood  silk  properly  so  called,  floas  silk,  and  artificial  silk. 

•  This  category  comprises  shawls  and  scarfs  of  mixed  wool,  the  wool  predominating  in  weight,  not  specially 
mentioned  or  included  elsewhere. 

NoTK.— In  measuring  the  sw-face  of  floor  carpets  to  determine  the  weight  per  square  yard,  only  the  surface 
'occupied  by  tho  body  of  tho  carpet  ia  takea  into  account,  to  the  ejoslusiou  of  the  fringes. 


BEPORT   OF   TABIFF   BOARD   ON   SCHEDULE   K.  267 

Canada. 

Ditties  paid  on  raw  wool  and  certain  articles  of  wool  when  imported  into  Canada.     Imports 
from  the  United  States  are  dutiable  under  the  ^'General  tariff." 

[Per  cent  ad  valorem  unless  specifically  mentioned  otherwise.] 


Tariff 
No. 


520 

629 
£30 
533 

554 


555 


556 

557 

55S 


559 


560 
501 


662 
563 


664 

565 

50C 


667 


668 
568aj 
570 
572 

673a 
575 


681 


Article. 


Bats,  batting,  and  sheet  waddinp;  of  wool,  cotton,  or  other  fiber,  cot- 
ton warps  and  cotton  yarns,  dyed,  or  not,  u.  o.  p 

Prunella  cJoth  of  wool 

Bolting  cloth,  not  made  up 

Waste  or  shoddy  from  cotton,  woolen,  or  other  fabrics,  or  from  yam  or 
thread,  machined,  garnetted,  or  prepared  for  use 

Wool  and  the  hair  of  the  camel,  alpaca,  goat,  and  other  like  animals, 
not  further  prepared  than  washed,  n.  o.  p.;  noils,  being  the  short 
wool  which  rails  from  the  combs  in  worsted  factories,  and  worsted 
tops,  n.  o.  p 

Wool,  viz,  Cotswold,  Lincolnshire,  Southdown  combing  w^ools,  or 
wools  known  as  luster  wools  and  other  like  combing  wools,  such  as  are 
grown  in  Canada per  pound. . 

"Worsted  tops  made  from  such  wools  as  are  mentioned  in  the  next  pre- 
ceding item 

Yams,  woolen  and  worsted,  n.  o.  p 

Yams,  composed  wholly  or  in  part  of  wool,  worsted,  the  Ixair  of  the 
^oat,  or  like  animal,  n.  o.  p.,  co&ting  30  cents  per  pound  or  over,  when 
imported  on  the  cop,  cone,  or  tube,  or  in  the  nank,  by  manufacturers 
of  woolen  goods  for  use  exclusively  in  their  own  factories 

Wool  or  worsted  yams,  when  genapped,  dyed,  or  finished  and  imported 
by  manufacturers  of  braids,  cords,  tassels,  buttons,  and  fringes  for 
use  exclusively  in  the  manimcturo  of  such  articles  in  their  o'rti  fac- 
tories 


Yarns  spim  from  the  hair  of  the  alpaca,  and  mohair  yarn 

Lastings,  molialr  cloth,  or  other  manufactures  of  cloth,  woven  or  made 
in  pattern  of  such  size,  shape,  or  form,  or  cut  In  such  manner  as  to  be 
fit  only  for  covering  buttons,  when  imported  by  manufacturers  of 
buttons  for  use  exclusively  in  the  manufacture  of  such  articles  in 
their  own  factories 

Oiled  silk,  and  oiled  cloth,  and  tape  or  otlier  textile,  India  rubbered, 
flocked  or  coated .  n.o.p 

Women's  and  children's  dress  goods,  coat  linings,  Italian  cloths, 
alpacas,  Orleans,  cashmeres,  henriettas,  serges,  buntings,  nun's 
cloth,  bengaline-s.  whip  cords,  twills,  plains,  or  jacquards  of  similar 
fabrics,  composed  wholly  or  in  part  of  wool,  worsted,  the  hair  of  the 
camel,  alpaca,  goat,  or  like  animal,  not  exceeding  in  weight  6  ounces 
to  the  square  yard,  when  imported  in  the  gray  or  unfinLshed  state  foi 
the  purpose  of  being  dyed  or  finished  in  Canada,  under  regulations 
prescribed  by  the  minister  of  customs 

Fdt,  pressed,  of  all  kinds,  not  filled  or  covered  by  or  with  any  woven 
fabrics 

Blankets,  composed  wholly  of  pure  wool 

Flanneb,  plain,  not  fancy;  fabrics  of  wool  or  of  cotton  and  wool,  com- 
monly described  and  sold  as  lusters,  mohair,  alpaca,  and  Italian 
linings 

Fabrics,  manufactures,  wearing  apparel  and  readv-made  clothing, 
composed  wholly  or  In  part  of  wocrf,  worsted,  the  hair  of  the  goat,  or 
other  like  aninial,  n.  o.  p.;  cloths,  doeskins,  cassimeres,  tweeds, 
coatings,  overcoatings,  ana  felt  cloth,  n.  o.  p 

Undershirts,  drawers,  and  knitted  goods,  n.  o.  p 

Socks  and  stockings  of  all  kinds 

Mats,  door  or  carriage,  other  than  metal ,  n.  o.  p 

Turkish  or  Imitation  Tm-klsh  or  other  floor  rugs  or  carpets,  and  carpets, 
n.  o.  p 


Church  vestments  of  any  material. 

Embroideries,  n.  o.  p.;  lace,  n.  o.  p.;  braids,  n.  o.  p.;  fringes,  n.  o.  p.; 
cords;  elastic,  round  or  flat;  garter  elastic;  tassels;  handkerchiefs  of 
al!  kinds ;  lace  collars  and  all  manufactures  of  lace;  nets  and  nettings 
of  cotton,  linen,  silk,  or  other  material,  n.  o.  p.;  shams  and  ciulains, 
when  made  up,  trimmed  or  untrimmed;  corsets  of  all  kinds;  linen 
or  cotton  clothing,  n.  o.  p 


Junk,  old;  rags  of  cotton,  jute,  hemp,  and  wwA;  paper  waste  clippingV, 
waste  of  all  kinds,  n.  o.  p.;  except  me  " 


and 

glass  cullett. 


metallic;  broken  glass  or 


British 
prefer- 
ential. 


Free. 
Free. 

7J 


Free. 


»2 

10 
20 


12J 


Inter- 
mediate 
tariff. 


Free. 
Free. 


Free. 
20 


15 

15 
22^ 


22J 


30 
22i 
25 
25 

25 
12^ 


25 
Free. 


22J 
Free. 
Free. 

10 


Free. 


12J 

12§ 
27i 


17J 


Free. 
Free. 


Free. 
27} 


Gen- 
eral 
tariff. 


22} 

22} 
30 


30 


35 
30 
32} 
30 

30 
17} 


32} 
Free. 


Cents. 


25 
Free. 

Free. 

12| 


Free, 


13 

15 
30 


20 


Free. 
Free. 


Free. 
30 


25 

25 
35 

35 


35 
35 
35 

35 
20 


35 
Free. 


268 


BEPORT  OF   TABIFF  BOARD   ON    SCHEDULE  K. 

•France. 


BuOes  pa%d  on  raw  wool  and  certain  articles  of  w^ool  imported  into  France,  the  duties 
un(kr  the  general  tarijf  applying  to  imports  from  the  United  States, 


Tariff 

No. 


23 


372 


t 


M 


373 


373  bis. 


It 


li 


Articles. 


Rate  of  duty 

(per  100 

pounds). 


General 
tariff. 


Wools,  including  alpam,  llama,  vicuna  wool;  also  hair  of  the  yak,  camel,  and 
cashmere  goat: 

Raw,  and  on  the  skin 

Raw,  dyed,  and  noils,  dyed 

Combe*!  or  carded , 

Combed  or  carded,  dyed 

Wastes 

Yam  of  pure  wool: 

Single,  m(»asurinK  to  the  pound— 
Bleached  or  not  - 
Combed— 

Not  more  than  2.),090  yards 

More  than  2fl,fW  yards  but  not  exceeding  25.(i51  yarris 

More  iliaii  2.%<151  yaitls  but  not  exeee<iing  'Mi,r)l2  yani? 

More  than  30,012  yards  but  not  exceefling  34,973  yards 

More  than  34,973  vards  but  not  exceeding  39,934  yards 

More  than  39,984  yards  but  not  exceeding  44,895  yards 

More  than  44.895  yards  but  not  excec<ling  49.s,w  yards 

More  than  49,866  yards 

Carded  — 

4,961  vards  or  less 

More  than  4,iM>l  yards  but  not  excwding  7,4-Jl  yards 

More  tlmn  7,441  yards  but  not  exceeding  9,921  yards 

More  than  9,921  yards  but  not  excifeding  15,130  yards 

More  than  15,130  yards 

Dye<i  or  printed — 
Combed— 

Not  more  than  20,090  yarns 

More  than  '20,090  vanls  but  not  exceeding  25,051  yards 

More  than  25,061  vanls  but  not  exceeding  30,012  yards 

More  than  .1),012  vards  but  not  exceeding  34,973  yards 

More  than  34.97:}  Vards  but  not  exceeding  39.934  yards 

More  than  :i9,9M  yards  but  not  exceeding  44,895  yards 

More  than  44,H95  vards  but  not  exceeding  49,866  yards 

More  than  49,850  yaixls 

Carded— 

4,901  yards  or  less 

More  than  4,9t>l  vards  but  not  exceeding  7,441  yards 

More  than  7,441  yards  but  not  exceeding  9.921  yards. 

More  than  9,921  yards  but  not  exceeding  15,130  yards 

More  than  15,i;>0  vards 

Twisted,  measuring  to  the  pound  of  single  thread— 
Fdr  weaving- 

Bleached  or  not  — 
Combt'd  — 

Not  more  than  20,090  yards 

More  than  20.090  vards  but  not  exceeding  25.051  yards 

More  than  25,031  yards  but  not  exceeding  30,012  yards 

More  tfmn  30,012  vards  but  not  exceeding  34.973  yards 

More  than  34,973  yards  but  not  exceeding  .39,934  yards 

More  than  39,934  yards  but  not  exceeding  44,805  yards 

More  than  44,896  yards  but  not  exceeding  49,850  yards 

More  than  49,8S6  yards 

4,%1  vards  or  less 

More  than  4,9«)1  yards  but  not  exceeding  7,441  yarfis 

More  than  7,441  vards  but  not  exceeding  9,921  yards 

More  than  9,921  yards  but  not  exceeding  15,i;iO  yards 

Mor:?  than  15,130  yards 

Dyed  or  prinie<l  — 
Combed— 

Not  more  than  20,090  yards 

More  than  20,090  yards  but  not  exceeding  25,a'>l  \  ir ! ; 

More  than  25,051  yards  but  not  exceeding  :{ft,012  yanls 


More  than  30,012  yards  but  not  exceeding  34,973  yards. 
More  than  34,973  yards  but  not  exceeding  39,934  yards. 


More  than  39,934  yards  but  not  exceeding  44,8ft5  yards 

More  than  44,895  yards  but  not  exceeding  49,85(1  yards 

More  than  49,866  yards 

Cardai— 

4  961  yards  or  less 

liore  "than  4,901  yards  biit  not  exceeding  7,441  yards 

More  than  7,441  yards  but  not  exceeding  9,921  yards 

More  than  9,921  yards  but  not  exceeding  15,130  yards 

More  than  15,130  yards 


Free. 

$2.85 
2.85 
3.06 

Free. 


3.76 
4.91 
5.95 
7.09 
8.14 
9.19 
10.32 
10.85 

l.Cl 
2.45 
3.24 
4.03 
4.91 


0.47 

7.62 

8.67 

9.80 

10.85 

11.91 

13.04 

13.56 

4.38 
5.17 
5.96 
6.74 

7. 02 


4.91 

6.30 

7.70 

9.10 

10.51 

11.91 

13.31 

14.10 

2.45 
3.24 
4.03 
4.91 
5.60 


7.62 

8.67 

9.80 

10.85 

12.08 
13.31 
14.63 

15.23 

.'■).  17 
5.95 
(i.  74 
7.(»2 
8.40 


Mini- 
mum 
tariff. 


Free. 

12.19 
2.19 
2.41 

Free. 


2.45 
3.16 
3.85 
4.66 
6.25 
5.95 
C.C5 
7.00 

1.31 
1.93 
2.f»3 
3.24 
3.94 


4.64 
6.34 
6.03 
6.74 
7.44 
8.14 
8.83 
9.19 

3.24 
3.76 
4.28 
4.73 
5.34 


2.98 
3.89 
4.M 
5.. 51 
0.30 
7.17 
8.06 
8.42 

1..58 
2.36 
3.16 
3.85 
4.73 


5.17 
5.95 
6.82 
7.01 
8.50 
9.28 
10.15 
10.59 

3.50 
4.11 
4.73 
5. 25 
6.95 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


France— Continued . 


269 


Duties  paid  on  ram  tvool  and  certain  articles  of  wool  imported  into  France,  the  duties 
under  the  general  tariff  applying  to  imports  from  the  United  Stales — Continued. 


Tariff 
No. 


374 


375 


376 


I 


439 


440 
441 


441 
441 


bis 

ter 


442 


Articles. 


Yarn  of  pure  wool— Continued. 

Twisted,  measuring  to  the  pound  of  single  thread— Continued. 
For  carpets,  rugs,  and  tapestry,  combed — 
Bleached  or  not — 

Not  more  than  20,090  yards 

More  than  20, 090  yards  but  not  exceeding  25, 051  yards 

More  than  25, 051  yards  but  not  exceeding  30. 012  yards 

More  than  30, 012  yards  but  not  exceeding  34, 973  yards 

More  than  34, 973  yards  but  not  exceeding  39. 934  yards 

More  than  39, 934  yards  but  not  exceeding  44, 895  yards 

More  than  44, 895  yards  but  not  exceeding  49, 856  yards 

More  than  49, 856  yards 

Dyed  or  printed—  -  ■ 

Not  more  than  20,090  yards. . .' 

More  than  20.090  yards  but  not  exceeding  25,051  y^ards 

More  than  25.051  yards  but  not  exceeding  30,012  yards 

More  tiian  30,012  yards  but  not  exceeding  34,973  yards 

More  than  34,973  yards  but  not  exceeding  39,934  yards 

More  than  39,934  yards  but  not  exceeding  44,895  yards 

More  than  44,895  yards  but  not  exceeding  49,856  yards 

More  than  49,856  yards 

Yams  of  wool  mixed  with  fibers  other  than  alpaca,  llama,  vicuna,  yak.  Cash- 
mere goat,  or  camel's  hair;  the  wool  predominating  in  weight:  Dutiable  as 
yams  of  pure  wool .  •  -  •  *'*•  ■>    -«—  • 

Yarns  of  alpaca,  llama,  vicuna,  yak.  Cashmere  goat,  or  camel's  hair: 
^ixed—  --     ^ 

With  wool  in  whatever  proportions:  Dutiable  as  yarns  of  pure  wool. 
With  other  fibers,  but  the  yarn  of  alpaca,  llama,  vicuna,  yak,  cashmere 
goat,  or  camel's  hair  predominating  m  weight:  Dutiable  as  yarns  of 
_  ^  ,       pure  wool     ,  ..^  ^^,., 

Fabrics  oipure  wool: 

Cloths,  cashmere  and  other  milled  fabrics,  and  short-napped  fabrics  not 
fulled— 
For  upholstery,  weighing  more  than  11  ounces  347  grains  per  square 

yard 

Moir6 

Fabrics  for  clothing,  drapery,  etc.,  weighing  to  the  square  yard,  selvage 
included— 

7  ounces  162  grains  or  less 

More  t  han  7  ounces  162  grains  but  not  exceeding  11  ounces  347  grains. 
More  than  11  ounces  347  grains  but  not  exceeding  1  pound  95  grains. 
More  than  1  pound  95  grains  but  not  exceeding  1  pound  4  ounces 

281  grains 

More  than  1  pound  4  ounces  281  grains 

Muslin  delaine,  printed 

Fulled,  plain,  dyed  in  the  piece,  called  "amazone,"  combed  and  carded  or 
entirely  carded,  weighing  per  square  yard,  including  the  selvage— i 

Not  more  than  11  ounces  347  grains 

More  than  11  ounces  347  grains:  Dutiable  under  Nos.  440-441  bis,  according 
to  kind. 
Carpets: 

With  knotted  or  tv^isted  pile,  of  any  origin,  including  imitations—* 

Of  200  rows  or  less 

201  to  350  rows 

More  than  350  rows 

Made  on  Jacquard  looms,  chenille  or  velvet 

Plain  or  printed ,  velvet 

Plain  or  printed,  chenille 

Other 


Rate  of  duty 

(per  100 

pounds). 


General 
tariff. 


$5. 69 
7.35 
8.93 
10.59 
12.17 
13.83 
15.49 
16.28 

8.40 
10.06 
11.64 
13.31 
14.88 
16.54 
18.21 
18.99 


Mini- 
mum 
tariff. 


10.85 
6.57 


18.39 
23.63 
20.14 

16.63 
12.26 
19.70 


30.20 


13.68 
4.73 
5.78 

6.82 
7.88 
8.93 
9.98 
10.61 

5.86 

6.91 

7.97 

9.01 

10.06 

11.11 

12.17 

12.60 


8.75 
4.38 


12.28 

19.26 
15.75 

12.26 

9.63 

13.66 


20.14 


»1.61 

«1.05 

8  1.94 

S1.29 

»2.90 

S1.94 

10.60 

7.00 

7.26 

4.81 

5.95 

3.94 

10.50' 

7.00 

>  This  number  does  not  apply  to  fabrics  merely  milled,  the  nap  of  which  does  not  lie  in  a  definite  direc- 
tion, or  to  satins  or  "armures." 

•The  surface  is  measured  on  the  body  of  the  carpet,  inclusive  of  fag  end,  salvage,  and  fringes.  An 
allowance  of  2  per  cent  is  made  in  countmg  the  rows.  The  unit  in  counting  the  rows  is  the  meter  in  the 
same  direction  as  the  warp.  The  test  is  made  in  a  distance  of  1  cm.,  disregardmg  fractions  of  a  row;  the 
result,  multiplied  by  10,  gives  the  number  of  rows  per  meter.  For  carpets  of  which  the  texture  is  not 
uniform,  the  rows  are  counted  as  above,  once  for  the  part  most  closely  woven  and  once  for  the  part  least 
Closely  woven.  The  average  of  the  two  figures  determines  the  classification.  Fractions  in  the  result 
are  disregarded. 

»  Dollars  per  square  yard. 


BEPOaT  OF  TABIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 
FiiAMCi— f  ootinned . 


JhiHai  pM  4m  raw  wml  and  eertmn  artieim  of  n'mt  imported  into  France,  the  dittm 
under  ^  penend  iunf  apflfmg  to  importi/rmti  the  L'mted  Stai€»-~Vominmd. 


Tariff 
No. 


Articles. 


Rate  0*  duty 

(per  100 

pounds). 


General 
tariir. 


443 


iHliJ 
llfll 


WMM 


445 
446 
447 

450 
451 
452 
453 
453  bis 

453  ter 
454 


Fabrics  of  pure  wool: 
KMt  Roods— 

Gloves 

Other  articles — 


Fabrics  in  the  peiet  weMiinf  mr  wawm^  7unl — 
-     ith«»ifoa«»41S|5f»&.7: 


2  oont^cs  415  grams  but  not  exeecdiiig  4  winctn  185  grains 

More  than  4  oaBem  im  grains  btit  not  eawjeetling  7  ocmces  102 

graina 

7  oaoeni  W2  gnam  btit  not  eatetediig  i  i  oonceV  347 


More  tlukQ  11  omxm  347  graios  but  not  fsxceeding  1  pound' 95 

grains 

More  tlian  1  pound  M  gradiw  Imt  not  exeeediniF  1  pound  4 

ounces  281  graina 

Mafe  than  1  pound  4  onnees  281  grains ••---■ 

All  otiier  articles.  inclodbicganBciitssaid  partsVhereof",  fitted  or  not 
AU  artiekss,  other  than  kofl  gloTta^  embnridcred  bv  hand  or  machine, 

or  ornamented  vftlilue or  trlnxBiiiigsi .'.,. t.. 

Trimmings  and  ribbons: 

Of  pure  wool 

Mixed  witbsiik  or  flaM«li,th«iroolfmknsiihiatinfi^ 

Fezorredeaps 

Tapestry 


Shawls,  broch^d  or  fignred,  other  than  Indian  cashmere  etmwh  or  knitted 


Bolting  cIoCli,  seomlem 
Blankets 


kQcmii  m  Straeburg  ilioeii. 


VPS  IIInS 


List  slippers^  ami  fiir-Mned 

Cloth  Ifet 

Velvet  tor  upholstery  * 

Fabrics  of  wool,  mixed: 

Lasting,  of  wool  warp  and  cotton  woof. 

Cloth-s,  caahDtteriit,  and  other  miBed  fabrics  witft  warp  of  cotton,  and  irtiort- 
nftpped  fabf  icst  not  milled,  with  warp  of  cotton,  the  wool  predominating  in 
weight,  weighing  per  squwre  yard— 

SonneeeSlSlgransorhaR. 

More  than  5  ounces  392  grains  but  not  exceeding  8  ounces  3<i8  grains. 

More  than  8  oancea  368  grains  but  not  exceeding  11  oonces  347  grains 

More  tiian  11  oonees  Ml  grains  bat  not  exceeding  1  pound  96  grains. 

More  than  1  pound  95  grains  but  not  exceeding  1  pocmd  4  ounces  2S1  gniins . . 

Exceedin||^lpoii!id4oancea281gndns. 

Fabrics  containing  In  warp  or  woof  in<we  than  10  per  cent  of  silk  or  floas  silk, 

the  wool  predominating  in  weight 

Fabrics  with  warp  entirelv  of  silk  or  fleaaaiUE,  tbe  wwA  predominatfeg  In  wH?ltt. 
Carpets  of  wool  mixed  with  other  mai|eflBi%  wtaotteirer  be  their  proportion: 

Dutiable  as  carpets  of  ptuv  woot. 
Knit  eeods,  the  wool  predoiniiMiting  in  weight:  Dotfabtoas  knit  goods  of  pore 

wool. 
Other,  the  wool  predominating  in  weight:  Dutiable  as  fabrics  of  pure  wool 
according  to  kind. 


178.79 

38.08 
34.14 

30.20 

26.26 

22.32 

18.39 
14.45 
39.39 

78.79 

26.26 

*.  m  »6 

54w2S 

34.75 

17.33 

7.62 

8.75 

(») 
26.26 

19.70 


Mini- 
mum 
tariff. 


19.70 

16.45 

13.13 

9.81 

7.88 

5.95 

31. 51 


152.53 

25.39 
22.70 

20.14 

17.51 

14.88 

12.26 

9.63 

20. 26 

52.53 

17.51 
26.26 
«.068 
43.77 

28.01 

14.01 

4.81 

7.62 

19.52 

13.13 


13.13 
10.94 
8.75 
6.57 
5.25 
3.94 

21.01 
26.28 


\  Knit  gBods  tttmaied  with  crochet,  Isco,  rilxbom,  tape,  g»Uooas>  and  other  onMunents  shall  not  be  con- 
■dered  aa  embroidered  or  ornamented  with  lace  or  tcinuuing,  provided  that  such  additions  be  siinnle 
wccssorles  iaoreastag  tlw  vatue  of  the  article  by  kas  tkaa  15  per  cent  (applies  only  to  the  minimum  tariff) 

» Each.  ' 

•Free. 

«  UtrecM  Telvets  of  mohair  or  of  wool,  pure  or  mixed,  the  mohair  or  wool  predominating  In  weight,  with 
Off  witliout  a  luixtaie  of  silk  in  a  proponiun  of  leas  than  10  per  cent,  are  included  under  this  head. 


BJEPOET   OF   TABIFF  BOABD   ON  SCHEDULE   K. 


Germany. 


271 


DuM&t  paid  on  raw  wool  and  certain  articles  of  wool  when  imported  into  Germany  from  Urn 

United  States. 


Tariff 
No. 


413 

414 
416 
417 


418 


419 


420 


421 


422 


423 


424 


425 


426 
428 


429 


431 


Articles. 


Sheep's  wool  (also  glover's  wool);  hair  of  the  goat  and  liare  (also  rabbit),  etc.;  combed, 

bleached,  dyed,  curled,  or  milled 

Artificial  wool  (shoddy),  dyed  or  undyed 

Wool  or  other  animal  hair,  carded  or  combed,  other  than  crisp  hair  (krollhaare) ... 
Yarn  of  the  hair  of  cattle,  deer,  dogs,  or  hogs,  or  other  coarse  animal  hair,  mixed  or  not 
with  other  animal  or  vegetable  textile  material  or  jraans,  except  silk  or  oottcm,  of  one 
or  two  strands: 

Unbleached  (in  the  gray) 

Bleached,  dyed,  printed 

Genappes,  mohair,  and  alpaca  yarn,  mixed  or  not  with  other  animal  or  vegetable  tex- 
tile material  or  yams,  except  silk  or  cotton: 
Unbleached  (m  the  gray)— 

Single 

Of  2  or  3  threads '.S.V.'"'V. 

Of  4  or  more  threads * ] " . " 

Bleached,  dyed,  or  printed— 

Single , 

Of  2  or  3  threads 

Of  4  or  more  threads '"_ 

Hard-combed  yam  of  lustrous  wool,  over  7.87i  inches  in  length,  mixed  or  not  with 
other  animal  hair,  if  the  yarn  has  not  lost  the  quality  of  hard-combed  yam  as  a 
result  of  the  mixture: 
I' nb leached  (in  the  gray)— 

Sir^hj 

Of  2  or  3  threads ] 

Of  4  or  more  threads 

Bleached,  dyed,  printed— 

Single 

Of  2  or  3  threads !.""""!.'! 

I  Of  4  or  more  threads 

Yam  of  wool  or  other  animal  hair,  mixed  or  not  w  ith  vegetable  textile  materiais,' 
except  cotton,  not  coming  mider  Nos.  417  to  421: 
Combed  yam  (worsted  yam)  unbleached  (in  the  gray)— 

Single 

O  f  2  or  3  t h  read s 1 ..'"!!!.'!!""!.'!  i 

O f  4  or  more  threads .V.\    ," 

ComT>ed  yam  (worsted  yam) ,  bleached,  dyed,  printed— 

Single 

Of  2  or  3  tlireads 1 ".].!...!..!.! !        ! 

Of  4  or  more  threads ' ... 

Carded  yam,  unbleached  (in  the  gray)— 

Single 

Of  2  or  3  threads 

Of  4  or  more  threads 

Carded  yam,  bleached,  dyed,  printed— 

Single 

Of  2  or  3  threads '..',[ 

Of  4  or  more  threads 

Yam  of  all  lands  of  w  ool,  mixed  or  not  with  v(^table  textile  materiaJs,  except  cotton" 

made  up  for  retail  sale , 

Carpets  made  with  indication  for  cutting  (without  sewmg),  or  in  the  pleoeVprinted  or 

Of  dyed  or  undved  yam,  other  than  "of  the  hair  of  cattle,  deer,  hogs,  or  similar 
c<mrse  animal  hair,  mixed  or  not  with  jute,  manila  hemp,  aloe  fiber,  pineapple 
Iltjer,  or  cocoanut  fiber,  without  regard  to  proportion:'^  eOso  other  than  "that 
mixed  with  other  vegetable  textile  materials  in  which  the  animal-hair  yam  pr©. 
dommates" —  ^ 

Knotted 

Woven !.!"!!! 

Close-woven  tissues  for  fumittife  or  upho*lstery'(except  velvet  and  phis^ 
similar  to  velvet  and  plush),  dyed,  printed,  or  woven  in  colors: 
In  the  ])iece,  for  sale  by  measure — 

Weighing  more  than  5  ounces  392  grains  to  the  square  yard 

weighing  5  ounces  392  grains  or  less  to  the  square  yardf. 

Made  witii  Indkjatlon  for  cutting  (as  curtains,  hangings,  coverlets,  etc.)  with  or 
wIttoutGdglngs  or  fringes—  ^ 

ard 


Rate  of 

duty 

(per  100 

pounds). 


Weighing  more  than  5  ounces  392  grains  to  the  square  ya 
Weighing  5  ounces  392  grains  or  less  to  the  square  yard . . 


Velvet  and  plush,  and  tissues  similar  to  x^xe.i  and  plush  (with'cut'or  unciit  pile") 
flguiedornot 


Frea. 

Free. 

$0,215 


•  323 
.539 


.215 
.215 
2.15 

-215 
.647 
2.15 


.871 
.431 

2.59 

.647 
1.511 
2.90 


.868 

1.079 
2.590 

L295 
1.943 
2.590 

.863 
1.295 
2.590 

1.408 
2.269 
2.914 

3. 233 


16. 193 
10.795 


14.574 
23.75 


17. 812 
26.989 

16.193 


272 


BBPOirr  OF  TABIFF  BOARD   ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


Germany — Continued. 


Duties  paid  on  raiv  wool  and  certain  articles  oj  wool  when  imported  into  Germany  from  the 

United  States — Continued. 


Tariff 
Ko. 


i 


4S2 


433 
4M 


437 
514 


Artlcleg. 


Tissues  not  included  under  Nos.  427  to  431: 

Weighing  more  than  1  pound  4  ounces  2Sl  grains  to  the  square  vard 

Weighing  more  tlian  5  ounces  392  grains  and  up  to  1  pountl  4  ounces  281  grains  to 

the  square  yard 

Weighing  5  ounces  392  grains  or  less  to  the  square  yard 

Felt  cloths  of  wool,  endless  woven,  unbleached,  for  the  maiwfacture  of  wood 

pul  p ,  e  tc 

Tissues  with  such  admixture  of  horsehair,  as  gives  to  the  tLssue  the  appearance 
of  stiJ  materials,  even  though  neither  warp  nor  weft  consist  entirely  of  horse- 
hair   

Knitted  and  netted  stulfs 

Lace  of  all  kinds,  including  insertions,  edgings,  and  lace  p'mce  goods,  with  or  without 

vravy  or  scalloijed  edges 

Tulle 

Trimmings  (edgings,  ri bbons,  cords,  laces ,  tapes, and  similar  wares) 

Felt,  fmished-otf  carpets  of  felt,  and  other  unsewn  felt  goods:  Of  wool,  even  in  com- 
bination with  vegetable  textile  materials.or  with  admixture  of  silk 


Bate  of 

duty 

(per  100 

poimds). 


$14,574 

16.193 
23.75 

8.636 


4.858 
10. 795 

32.386 
37.784 
21.59 

10.795 


Italy. 

Duties  on  raw  wool  and  certain  articles  ojwool  paid  in  Italy  when  imported Jrom  the  United 

States,  on  the  lOO-pound  basis. 


Tariff 

No, 


130 


131 
134 


135 
13G 


137 

138 


Articles. 


Wool: 

a.  Natural  or  in  the  grease  and  washed  wool , 

6.  Dyed , 

e.  Carded— 

1.  Not  dyed , 

2.  Dyed , 

d.  Coml>ed— 

1.  Not  dyed 

2.  Dyed 

i.  Shoddy— 

1 .  Not  dyed 

2.  Dyed 

Waste  wool  and  flocic 

Yam  of  carded  wool,  single: 

0.  Unbleached,  measuring  per  pound— 

1.  Up  to  4,961  yards 

2.  More  than  4,fi61  yards 

6.  Bleached  (same  duty  as  on  unbleached  yarn,  with  an  additional  20  per  cent). 
c.  Dyed  *  Same  duty  as  on  unbleached  yarn,  with  an  additional 

Yam  of  carded  wool,  twisted :  Bame  duty  as  on  single  yam,  with  an  additional 

Yams  of  combed  wool,  single: 

o.  Unbleached,  measuring  t>er  pound— 

1.  Up  to  24.806  yards 

2.  More  than  24,8<)6  yards 

h.  Bleached  (same  duty  as  on  luibleached  yam,  with  an  additional  20  per  cent). 
c.  Dyed:  Same  duty  as  on  unbleached  yam,  with  an  additional 

Yams  of  combed  wool,  twisted  (same  duty  as  on  single  yam,  with  an  additional... 
Tissues  of  wool: 

a.  Carded,  weighing  per  square  yard— 

1.  8  ounces  370  grains  or  less 

2.  More  than  8  ounces  370  grains,  but  not  more  than  14  ounces  325  grains  .... 

3.  More  than  14  ounces  325  grains 

Press  cloths  of  wool  weighing  more  than  1  pound  13  ounces  212  grains  per 
square  yard 

Woven  felts  for  the  manufacture  of  wood  or  straw  pulp,  cellulose,  and 
paper,  without  distinction  of  weight 


Rate  of 

duty 

(per  100 

pounds). 


Free. 

ia875 

a  875 
1.75 

1.313 
2.188 

0.70 
0.70 
Free. 


3.939 
4.814 

2.188 

X.  4olf 


5.252 
9.5C5 

2.188 
1.488 


16.195 
14.007 
12.256 

10.505 

9.029 


BEPOBT  OF  TAKIFF  BOAKD   ON   SCHEDULE   K. 

Italy — Continued . 


273 


Duties  on  raw  wool  and  certain  articles  of  wool  paid  in  Italy  when  imported  from  the  United 

States,  on  the  100-pound  5a«wr— Continued. 


Tariff 
No. 


138 


Articles. 


Tissues  of  wool — Continued. 

6.  Combed,  weighing  per  square  yard— 

1.  5  ounces  392  grains  or  less xa;***V ' 

2.  More  than  5  ounces  392  grains,  but  not  more  than  14  ounces  325  graina 

3.  More  than  14  ounces  325  grains 

Press  cloths  of  wool  weighing  more  than  2  pounds  190  grains  per  square 


139 


142 


143 


yopd  ...... - 

Smooth  tissues,"  not  fuUed,  of  wool  pure  or  mixed  with  silk  or  floss  silk  in 
a  quantity  less  than  12  per  cent  and  weighing  per  square  yard- 

5  ounces  392  grains - ^ -  - . 

More  than  5  ounces  392  grains,  but  not  more  than  14  ounces  325  grains . . 
Stuffs  for  furniture  weighing  more  than  14  ounces  325  grains  per  square 

Note  —Woolen  tissues'oontaining  combed  wool,  although  that  material  may  not  pre- 
dominate in  weight,  as  well  as  woolen  tissues  containing  less  than  12  per  cent  of  silk, 
are  treated  as  tissues  of  combed  wool.  j.   ^  •  ^  ^*v  .,„  »^^;*{^«„i 

c   Printed :  Same  duty  as  on  the  tissues,  according  to  kmd,  with  an  additional. . . . 

d.  Brocaded:  Same  duty  as  on  the  tissues,  with  an  additional 

**    1.  Chain  stitch:  Same  duty  as  on  nonembroidered  tissues,  with  an  additional.. 
2.  Lock  stitch:  Same  duty  as  on  nonembroidered  tissues,  with  an  additional. . 

0.'  Up  to  0.11811  inch  in  thickness:  Same  duty  as  on  tissues  of  carded  wool. 

b.  More  than  0.11811  inch  in  thickness 

Felt  soles  for  footwear 

Of  ox,  goat,  or  sheep's  hair,  not  dyed,  with  warp  of  Unen  or  cotton 

Carpets  of  wool  or  waste  wool,  including  those  in  which  textile  materials  other  than 
Bilk  predominate  in  weight 


Bate  of 

duty 

(per  100 

pounds). 


121.886 
19.259 
16.633 

10.50S 


19.259 
17.508 

8.754 


2.626 
3.601 

13. 131 
17.508 

1.75 
1.75 
3.501 

5.252 
8.754 

8.754 


Japan. 


Duties  paid  on  raw  wool  and  certain  articles  of  wool  whenAmported from  the  United  States, 


282 
283 


284 


295 
301 


Sheep's  wool,  goat's  hair,  and  camel's  hair,  including  those  carded  or  combed 

Woolen  or  worsted  yams: 

Undyed  or  imprinted—  ,  ^  ^     ^^ 

Yarn  made  by  twisting  woolen  and  worsted  yams  t<^ther — 

Yams  made  by  twistmg  those  of  difEerent  number  together  and  loop  yams. . . 
Other- 
Worsted— 

Not  exceeding  No.  32  metnc 

Other 

T'STooIgh        .,,...,..,.,.•..••-.♦--••••--•--•---•-•-"---•-"*""••••"■""•'*• 

Other— Same  dutyas  on  undyed  or  unprinted  with  an  addition  of 

Mixed  yarns  of  cotton  and  wool: 

1.  Undyed  or  unprinted -  - .  - 

2.  Other— Same  duty  as  on  undyed  or  unprmted,  with  an  addition  of 

Waste  or  old  fibers,  waste  yams,  and  waste  threads . . . 

Tissues  of  wool,  and  mixed  tissues  of  wool  and  cotton,  of  wool  and  suk,  or  of  wool, 

cotton,  and  silk:  .  ^    „        ^  j. 

1.  Velvets,  plushes,  and  other  pile  tissues,  with  piles  cut  or  uncut— 

A.  Partly  of  silk 

B.  Other 

Other— 

A.  Of  wool—  - 

a.  Weighing  not  more  than  5  ounces  392  grams  per  square  yard 

c.  Weighing  not  more  than  14  ounces  325  grains  per  square  yard 

d.  Other 

Of  wool  and  cotton— 

a.  Weighing  not  more  than  2  ounces  415  grams  per  square  yard 

b.  Weighing  not  more  than  5  ounces  392  grains  per  square  yard 

c.  Weighing  not  more  than  14  ounces  325  grains  per  square  yard 

d.  Other » 


Rate  of 

duty 

(per  100 

pounds). 


Free. 


2. 


B. 


$4,968 

6.587 

4.517 

.941 

3.726 
1.129 
Free. 


67.763 
18.82 


21.643 
16.938 
15.056 

20.702 

19.761 

11.292 

6.776 


1 15  per  cent  ad  valorem. 
32080"— H.  Doc.  342, 62-2,  vol  1 ^18 


274 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIPP  BOAED  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


EBPOET  OF  TABIFF  BOAED  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


275 


Japan — Continued. 

Duties  paid  on  raw  wool  ctnd  certain  articles  of  wool  when  imported/rmn  the  United  States — 

Continued. 


Tarill 
No. 


301 


Articles. 


N 


307 
326 
327 
328 


329 
330 

335 
336 


337 
Ml 
342 


Tissues  of  wool,  and  mixed  tissaes  of  wool  and  cotton,  of  wool  and  silk,  or  of  wool 
cotton,  and  silk— Continued.  ' 

2.  Other -Continued. 

C.  Of  wool  and  silk  or  of  wool,  cotton  and  silk— 

C-1.  Containing  not  more  than  10  per  cent  by  weight  of  silk— 

a.  Weighing  not  more  than  2  ounces  415  grains  per  square  yard 

b.  WeMiing  not  more  than  5  ounces  392  grains  per  square  yards 

c  Weighing  not  more  than  14  ounces  326  grains  per  square  yard  . .    . 
d.  Other 

C-2.  Containing  not  more  than  25  per  cent  by  weight  of  silk— 

a.  Weighing  not  more  than  2  ounces  415  grains  per  square  yard 

b.  Weighing  not  more  than  5  ounces  392  grains  per  square  yard 

c.  Weighing  not  more  than  14  ounces  325  grains  per  square  yard 

d.  Other 

C-3.  Other 

Felts,  of  wool,  or  wool  and  cotton 

Single  blankets,  of  wool,  or  wool  and  cotton 

Traveling  rugs,  single,  other  than  whdly  or  partly  of  silk 

Carpets  and  carpeting: 

1.  Wholly  or  paruy  of  wool— 
(a)  Woven  with  pUee— 

A-1.  Having  piles  conatitated  with  warp  or  woof  of  one  system— 

a.  With  cut  piles 

b.  Other 

A-2.  Other— 

a.  With  cut  piles 

b.  Other 

B.  Of  felt 

C.  Other .■■...* 

Tablecloths,  single,  of  wool,  or  wool  and  cotton ." 

Curtains  and  window  blinds,  of  wool,  or  wool  and  cotton 

Air  cushions  other  than  wholly  or  partly  of  silk 

Bed  quilts  and  cushions,  other  than  wholly  or  partly  of  silk: 

A.  Stuffed  with  feathers  or  down 

B.  Other 

Woven  belting  for  machinery  and  woven  hoses,  other  than  of  cotton 

Bags 

Tissues  not  otherwise  provided  for 


Bate  of 

duty 

(per  100 

pounds). 


$54.20 
51.192 
48.181 
45.17 

70.766 
67.755 
64.743 
61.732 

(») 

17.842 
11.443 
22.585 


13.588 
8.055 

16.75 
10.238 
6.436 

(») 

36.964 
35.006 
46. 675 

46.675 

29.398 

9.034 

Free. 

(») 


1 40  per  cent  ad  valorem. 


s  30  per  cent  ad  valorem. 


Tbe  following  table  gives  the  weight  in  ounces  per  linear  yard  of 
various  widths  of  cloths,  corresponding  to  the  weights  enumerated 
in  the  tariff: 


Weight  per  square  yard. 

2  ounces 
415  grains. 

5  ounces 
392  grains. 

14  ounces 
325  grains. 

Weight  per  linear  yard  of— 

27-inch  width 

Ounces. 

2.212 
2.458 
2.622 
2.949 
3.277 
4.424 
4.588 

Ounces. 
4.424 
4.915 
6.243 
5.898 
6.554 
8.848 
9.175 

Ounces. 
11.059 
12.289 
13.108 
14. 746 
16.385 
22.119 
22.939 

30-inch  width. 

32-inch  width. 

36-inch  width 

40-inch  width 

54-inch  width 

56-inch  width- 

Russia. 

Duties  paid  on  raw  wool  and  certain  articles  of  wool  when  imported  from  the  United 

States — Continued . 


Tariff 
No. 


U6 


108 


109 


900 
201 


ao2 


|i|li 


ao3 

206 
207 
208 


Articles. 


Bate  of 

duty 

(per  100 

pounds). 


Wool  and  down  (fluffy  hairj,  uncombed,  unspun: 

1.  Unwashed  or  washed,  undyed;  wool  combings  and  waste  undyed,  carded  or 

not 

2.  Dyed;  artiflcial  and  milled;  wool  combings  and  waste,  dyed,  carded  or  not; 

mixtures  of  vegetable  fibers  with  wool 

Wool,  combed,  spun,  or  twisted: 

1.  Combed— 

a.  Undyed 

b.  Dyed 

2.  Spun— 

a.  Up  to  and  including  No,  67  (metrical  system)— 

Undyed 

Dyed 

b.  Above  No.  57  (metrical  system) — 

Undyed 

Dyed 

3.  Twisted,  prepared  from  yam  of  the  following  numbers: 

a.  Up  to  and  including  No.  57 — 

Undyed 

Dyed 

b.  Above  No.  57— 

Undyed 

Dyed 

4.  Fancy,  of  all  sorts  (with  knots,  eyes,  rings,  and  the  like) — 

a.  Undyed 

b.  Dyed 

Notes.- Bleached  wool  is  dutiable  as  undyed  wool.  Spun  and  twisted  wool  speci- 
fied under  No.  186,  subdivisions  2  and  3,  are  dutiable  at  the  rates  fixed  for  those  sub- 
divisions even  if  mixed  with  cotton,  flax,  or  hemp. 

Woolen  felt  and  felt  nmterials  of  all  kinds;  articles  not  separately  designated,  cut  out 
of  felt 

Felts  of  wool  or  felted  tissues  of  wool,  pure  or  mixed  with  cotton,  for  use  in  factories 
or  workshops 

Woolen  materials,  woven,  not  separately  designated: 

Measuring  2,605  square  inches  (approximately  18  sq.  ft.)  or  less  to  the  pound 

Measuring  more  than  2,605  square  inches  to  the  j)ound 

Note.— Woolen  materials,  woven,  not  separately  designated,  will  pay  the  duties  fixed 
under  No.  199,  even  if  mixed  with  cotton. 

The  articles  specified  in  Nos.  198  and  199,  printed  (same  duties  as  shown  under  those 
numbers,  increased  by  30  per  cent). 

Tissues,  shawls,  and  scarfs,  in  the  nature  of  cashmeres,  of  a  woolen  warp,  with  a  weft 
of  colored  wool  or  of  colored  wool  and  colored  silk,  with  or  without  admixture  of  cot- 
ton; also  genuine  cashmeres  and  French  cashmeres 

WoolOTi  manufactures  for  use  in  factories: 

1.  Continuous  woolen  breadths  for  use  in  factories,  vsrith  a  circumference  of  more 

than  280  inches 

Tissues  of  wool  and  half  wool  and  cloth  for  use  in  factories  and  workshops . . . 
Filter  and  press  cloth 

2.  (in)  Press  and  filtering  cloths 

Woolen  carpets  of  all  kinds 

Note.— Warps  of  wool  for  carpets  with  stamped  figures  are  dutiable  at  the  rate  of . . . 

Tulle,  in  the  piece  or  in  cuttings,  other  than  of  cotton  or  silk 

Lace  and  lace  manufacttu-es,  other  than  of  silk  or  with  an  admixture  of  sUk. 

Embroideries,  embroidered  tissues,  and  tulle: 

1.  Of  all  kinds,  except  those  enumerated  in  subdivision  2  of  the  present  nimiber 

(208)— 
ex.  b.  All  other  kinds,  except  those  of  silk  or  half  silk,  embroidered  with  silk, 

fold,  silver,  or  tinsel 
Imbroldered  with  common  materials 

2.  Tissues  and  tulle,  of  not  less  than  28  inches  in  width,  embroidered  on  one  edge 

to  a  width  not  exceeding  1 J  inches— 
b.  If  embroidered  with  silk,  gold,  silver,  or  tinsel  they  pay  duty  according  to 
the  material  of  the  tissue,  increased  by  50  per  cent. 
2-b.  If  embroidered  with  materials  other  than  those  named  under  the  letter  "a" 
of  this  subdivision  they  pay  duty  according  to  the  material  of  the  tissue, 
increased  by  30  per  cent. 


S4.278 
9.260 


11.765 
16.756 


17.690 
20.607 

19. 679 
22.532 


19.822 
22.674 

23.245 
26.097 

23.245 
26.097 


51.34 

11.408 

85.567 
114.089 


256.701 


11.408 
11.408 
11.408 
19.965 
37.649 
10.695 
285.223 
268.11 


616.083 
399.314 


N.  B.— Duty  paid  on  imported  wool  Is  refunded  when  the  wool  is  used  in  factories  for  conversion  into 
broadcloth  for  export. 


276 


BEPOKT  OF   TARIFF  BOAEI>  ON   SCHEDUIiE   K. 


Switzerland. 


Duties  on  raw  wool  and  certain  articles  of  wool  paid  in  Switzerland  on  imports  from  the 

United  States,  on  the  lOO-pound  basis. 


Tariil 
No. 


455 
456 

457 
459 


462 
463 
4M 


4fiS 

467 
468 
468 

470 

471 
472 
473 


'474 
i75 


476 
«77 
478 
479 

480 


481 
482a 


482b 

483 
488 


489 

491 
492 


Artidefl. 


Wool,  raw,  washed,  dyed 

Waste  (flock,  noils) 

Combed  wool. 

Wool  sliver  (trait) 

Woolen  wadding  (includes  carded  wool  in  layers,  whether  glued  or  not) 

Woolen  yarn,  unbleached: 
Of  carded  wool- 
Single 

Of  several  threads 

Of  combed  wool- 
Single 

Of  several  threads 

W  oolen  yam,  gassed 

WoolOT  yam,  bleached,  dyed,  printed,  etc.: 
Of  carded  wool- 
Single 

Of  several  threads 

Of  combed  wool- 
Single 

Of  several  threads 

Yam  of  alpaca,  mohair,  and  camel'a  hair  (includes  woolen  yam  on  cops  and  on  bobbins 

cross  wound) 

Woolen  yams  made  up  for  retail  sale  (on  reels,  in  IwUls  or  skeins,  etc.) 

Woolen  tissues,  unbleached: 

O  f  yam  of  carded  wool 

Of  yam  of  combed  wool 

Gassed  stuffs  for  embroidery :vi ;•, ; y-AV 

Woolen  tissues,  bleached,  dyed,  printed,  woven  of  dyed  yam  (tissues  of  yam  of  carded 
or  combed  wool): 

Weighing  more  than  8  ounces  370  grahis  per  square  yard 

Weighing  less  than  8  ounces  370  grains  per  square  yard— 

a.  Zanella  and  serge  for  lining,  from  54.33  inches  to  65.90  inches,  inclusive,  hi 
breadth 

b.  Other 

Ad  474/475— Shawls  and  scarfe  in  the  piece  (uncut):  Wovct.     (See  also  No.  483.) 
Ad  471/475— Woolen  tissues,  also  with  paper  glued  on  one  side. 

Worsted  shag,  stuff  called  "Krimmer"  (astrachan) 

Ad  476— Tissues  of  half-wool  called  sealskin. 

Lasting  for  the  manufacture  of  boots  and  shoes - 

Ad  477— Lastings,  unbleached  or  dyed. 

C^oth  list 

Cioverings  (bed  and  table  covers,  etc.),  with  borders:  ,    .  . 

Without  needlework  <»  trimming,  even  with  fringes  made  in  weavmg  or  merely 

knotted 

Ad  479— Woolen  tissues,  hi  the  piece,  for  ooverhigs. 

With  needlework  or  trimming - ;--;-a' 

Ad  480— Woolen  coverings,  wJloon  edged;  woolen  oovenngs  composed  of  2 
pieces  sewn  together  (travelmg  rugs,  etc.). 
Carpets  and  rugs:  „        ,    ,^     ,... 

Not  wovenlike  velvet,  without  fringe  or  needlework  other  than  sewn  ot  spun  hems. 

Carpets  and  rugs  not  woven  like  velvet,  with  warp  of  twisted  unbleached  woolen 

yam  and  weft  of  dyed  woolen  yam,  with  fringes  made  in  weavfaig  and  merely 

knotted 

Other 

Ad  481/482— Woolen  tissues  for  carpets  and  rugs,  in  the  piece. 

Shawls,  scarfis,  fichus,  etc.,  woven ;;••-:.• c-^wwv ;*•■ 

Felted  woolen  tissues  (felted  woolen  tissues  are  endless  tissues,  such  as  felt-like  woolen 
cylinder  covers,  drying  felts,  etc.,  for  the  manufacture  of  wood  pulp,  straw,  fiber, 

cellulose,  and  paper) •^•'^•r ;*i*»  j-*"j"'V 

Felt  stuffs  (Ught  cloth  felt,  as  supple  as  stuffs,  but  merely  fulled  and  not  woven,  e.  g., 

for  articles  of  clothing,  petticoats,  jackets,  shoes,  etc.) 

Manufactures  of  felt,  without  needlework: 

Hat  shapes  of  woolen  felt 

Other- 
Unbleached  

Ad  492— Felt  waddhig,  covered  with  paper,  for  cartridges;  pieces  of 
stuffs  for  soles,  made  from  cloth  refuse,  agglutinated  by  pressure. 

Bleached,  dyed,  printed 

Ad  492/498— Felt  blankets,  felt  carpets;  stiffened  felt  (beer  felt,  etc.) 
and  generally  all  thick  felt  not  as  supple  as  stuffs. 


Rate  of 
duty. 


Free. 
Free. 
Free. 
Free. 
SO.  612 


.525 
.525 

.525 

.700 

1.050 


1.400 
1.575 

1.225 
1.75 

.175 
3.064 

2. 626 

5.252 

.875 


6.565 


2.626 
8.754 


3.5(a 
.70 
.350 

3.  .501 
5.252 

2.626 


2.188 
4.377 

8.754 


6.565 
2.188 
2.620 
2.188 

3.501 


f 


I 


) 


Appendix  B.— COMPARATIVE    STATEMEITT  OF  DXTTIES  ON  WOOI 
AITD  MAirUFACTURES  OF  WOOL  FEOM  1789  TO  1909. 

The  following  two  tables  present  a  comparative  statement  in 
parallel  columns  of  the  rates  of  duty  on  wool  and  manufactures  of 
wool  from  the  first  tariff  ever  enacted  by  the  United  States  until  the 
act  at  present  in  force. 

Table  1  contains  the  rates  under  the  acts  from  1789  to  1883. 
Table  2  those  under  the  acts  from  1890  to  1909. 

The  tables  represent  the  first  published  comprehensive  compila- 
tion of  rates  jf  duty  not  only  on  articles  specincally  mentioned  in 
the  various  tariff  acts,  but  also  on  those  not  specially  provided  for, 
but  ( overed  by  Treasury  or  court  decisions. 

The  published  Treasury  Decisions  begin  with  the  year  1868,  and 

all  these  decisions  bearing  on  wool  or  manufactures  of  wool  have 

been  gone  over  and  used  in  the  preparation  of  these  tables.     For 

the  f  ts  anteceding  1868  only  such  court  decisions  as  were  readily 

1  Me  were  utilized. 

-i.rticles  and  rates  not  specifically  mentioned  in  the  tariff  are 
printe(i  in  italics  in  the  two  tables.  Before  the  act  of  April  27,  1816. 
any  article  not  named  would  be  covered  by  the  provision  for  all 
nonenumerated  articles.  The  act  oi  1816  contained  a  provision  for 
*Voolen  manufactures  of  aU  descriptions"  which  would  cover  any 
woolen  goods  not  enumerated.  After  1842  any  article  not  enumer- 
ated, if  entirely  of  wool  or  of  which  wool  was  the  component  material 
of  chief  value,  was  dutiable  as  manufactures  of  wool  not  specially 
provided  for;  if  composed  in  part,  but  not  in  cliief  value,  of  wool, 
it  would  be  covered  by  the  so-callea  similitude  provision,  which  reads 
as  foUows: 

Section  20,  act  of  August  30,  1842: 

There  shall  be  levied,  collected,  and  paid  on  each  and  every  nonenumerated 
article  which  bears  a  similitude,  either  in  material,  quality,  texture,  or  the  use  to 
which  it  may  be  applied,  to  any  enumerated  article  chaigeable  with  duty,  the  same 
rate  of  duty  which  is  levied  and  charged  on  the  enumerated  article  which  it  most 
resembles  in  any  of  the  particulars  before  mentioned;  and  if  any  nonenumerated 
article  equally  resembles  two  or  more  enumerated  articles,  on  which  different  rates 
of  duty  are  chargeable,  there  shall  be  levied,  collected,  and  paid  on  such  nonenumer- 
ated article,  the  same  rate  of  duty  as  is  chargeable  on  tiie  article  which  it  resemblea 
paying  the  highest  duty. 

277 


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References  for  Table  2, 

1  The  followlne  articles  liave  been  held  to  be  dutiable  as  manufactures  of  wool ,  n .  s.  p.  f . : 

I  ™ Sq^e  tlS^^^  67  Fed.  Kep    532  (act  of  1890).  ,  .       n>  t.  io77n  /o^  «f  i«Q7^ 

1  bb  Articles  of  braid  shaped  to  fit  at  the  neck  of  women's  cloaks  or  waists.    T.  D.  19770  (act  oi  1887). 

I  ee  Printedfeltsauares forottomansorfurnitvire.    T.  D.  172G0  (act of  1894). 

I  a  Astrakhans.    T.  D .  14290;  52  Fed.  Rep.,  941;  66  Fed.  Rep.,  477  (act  of  1890). 

1 6  Rareees     T.  D.  19627  (act  of  1897).  .    _ 

1  e  BSIte  fancy,  composed  of  willow,  metal,  and  wool.    T.  D.  9403  (act  of  1883). 

Id  Bombazines.    25Fed.Cas.,456(actof  1824). 

I  ccidcloth.    T. D.9012(actof  1883)  14503 (actof  1890) 

I  ee  CarriaKe  aprons  of  waterproofed  cloth.    T.  D.  13754  (act  of  1890). 

»/ Cashmere clotnformakiag shawls.    T.D. 21650 (act of  1897). 

Iff  rattle  hair  fabrics.    T.D.  28592, 29390, 29825, 29839  (act  of  1897).  ^  ^     ,_    ^ 

•  h  Chair  seating,  composed  of  woven  bamboo  seating.lined  with  wool  and  jute  cloth,  stuffed  with  straw. 

T  D  26708(abstract8019)(actof  1897). 
I  /cottonqullts  with  wool  fringe.    113  Fed.  Rep.,  816;  120  Fed.  Rep.,  1021  (act  of  1897). 
I  i  DoUs'  wijrs  of  goat  hair  attached  to  a  cotton  foundation.    T.D.  14921  (act  of  1890). 
I  k  Dusters  composed  of  a  wooden  handle  to  which  are  attached  strips  of  woolen  cloth,  commonly  known 

1  I^imltuTe  S  wS  and  wijl  tep^try,  wool  chief  value.   T.  D.  13225  (act  of  1890),  31492  (act  of  1909). 
,     niat  crowns  of  wool  and  silk.    T.  D.  10541  (act  of  1883). 

*nHat crowns, worsted, embroidered.    T.D.  14130 (axjt of  1890).  ,    ^     „  ^  ^^,„  ,,o -c  ^   ^        c«t 
1  n  Horse  bandages  forsick  horses,  composed  of  flaimel  orwoolen  cloth.    T.  D.  23619;  113  Fed.  Rep.,  856 

1 0  Interlining! so-called  dometts.    T.  D.  28536  (abstract  17348)  (act  of  1897). 

p  Jackets,  jacketing,  couch  roll  covers,  and  endless  felts.    T.  D.  11381  (act  of  1890). 
I  q  Lap  robes.    113  Fed.  Rep.,  816;  120  Fed.  Rep.,  1021  (act  of  1897).  ^  ^  ^         ^.  ,  ^ 

I  r  Machine  blankets.    T.  I).  554  (act  of  1867),  3147  (act  of  1875),  11381, 15705, 16947;  65  Fed.  Rep.,  496  (act 

of  1890). 
H  Machine  belting.    T.  D.  29172  (act  of  1897).  ,  «  ^  .^...^^    *   ,,c«nN 

I  <  Mats  or  rugs  made  of  dressed  sheepskins  with  the  wool  on.    T-D.  10745  (act  of  1890).  ,,,„,„„♦ 

I  u  Musical-instrument  key  pads,  of  leathei,  cotton,  and  woolen  fabric,  wool  chief  value.    T.  D.  11353  (act 

of  1890). 
I V  Nuns'  veiling.    T.  D.  12237  (act  of  1890).  .  ^       ^  j  _,.t.  , , 

1  w  Ornaments  composed  of  bisque  dolls'  heads,  glued  to  disks  of  pasteboard  covered  with  several  layers 
of  woolen  cloth,  commerciaUy  known  as  penwipers  although  not  designed  for  actual  use  as  such.    T.  D. 

^^pSnters'  tapestry  or  canvas.    T.  D.  12234;  14062  (act  of  1890).    ^  „^^^  ,    ^   ,  ,^^, 
I »  Penwipers  composed  of  wool  and  metal,  metal  chief  value.    T.  D.  24595  (act  of  1897). 

1 1  Powderpads  or  puflfs,  consistmg  of  flat  circular  pieces  of  a  woolen  fabric,  used  for  applymg  face  powder. 
T.  D.  28142;  28222;  28300  (Ab.  16050)  (act  of  1897). 

I A  Press  cloth  made  of  camel's  or  some  dutiable  goat's  hair.  T.  D.  21200;  26569;  27792;  27873  (Ab.  14202); 
28776;  29352;  29548  (suit  4835)  (act  of  1897). 

I »  Scapularies  of  wool  and  cotton  with  religious  emblems  printed  thereon.    T.  D.  11842  (act  of  1890). 

1*^  Sieves  composed  of  animal  hair  and  wood,  wood  chief  value.    T.  D.  12946  (act  of  1890). 

I »  Toflca  nets.    T.  D.  14760  (act  of  1890). 

1  ^  Traveling  rugs.  T.  D.  13964  (act  of  1890);  17280;  17353  (act  of  1894);  24819  (act  of  1890);  124  Fed  Rep., 
295  (act  of  1890).    (Under  the  act  of  1883  as  rugs.    53  Fed.  Rep.,  1008.) 

1 '  Upholstery  goods  of  wool,  sDk,  and  cotton,  wool  chief  yalue.  T.  D.  10664;  28146  (circuit  court)  (act  of 
1883). 

1  ®  Wool  prepared  and  crimped  to  resemble  human  haii.    T.  D.  12331  (act  of  1890). 

«  The  following  articles  have  been  held  to  bo  dutiable  as  wool  trimmings: 

•o  Astrakan  trimmings.    T.  D.  14565;  65  Fed.  Rep.,  420;  71  Fed.  Rep.,  692  (act  of  1890). 

«6  Mohair  gimps,  insertion,  edge,  volants,  braid  gimp8,[feincy  braids,  garnitures,  hussar  sets. 

(act  of  1897). 
«e  Mohair  plush  trimmings  (cotton  and  goat  hair).    T.  D.  14694  (act  of  1890).  - 

*d  Narrow  woven  fabrics,  decorated  with  superadded  ornamentation.    T.  D.  26049;  28329  (act  of  1897). 

•  The  following  articles  have  been  held  to  be  dutiable  as  wool  dress  goods:  .   ,,   ^ 

•o  Bengalines,  of  silk  and  worsted,  under  act  of  1890.  T.  D.  12840.  Later  it  was  held  tha*  as  bengalmes 
were  used  for  sleeves  or  waists  they  were  not  dress  goods.  T.  D.  20924;  91  Fed.  Rep.,  115  (act  of  1894). 
The  proviso  to  paragraph  403,  act  of  1909,  relegates  these  goods  to  the  wool  schedule.      ^„  .„  ,    .   . 

•  b  Dress  goods  of  silk  and  wool  or  worsted,  silk  chief  value.  T.  D.  12840;  13287  (act  of  1890);  26943  (act  ot 
1894);  28580  (act  of  1897);  T.  D.  26248  (abstracts  5560-3  and  5598-9);  143  Fed.  Rep.,  919  (act  of  1894);  156  Fed. 
Bep.,  940  (act  of  1897).    Dress  goods  of  wool  and  silk  or  worsted  and  silk.    T.  D.  10343;  10782  (act  of  1883). 

•  c  Dress  goods  in  part  embroidered  with  silk  or  metal.  T.  D.  10781  (act  of  1883);  11975;  13983;  14302  (act 
of  1890);  25155;  25340;  26122;  26538  (act  of  1897);  60  Fed.  Rep.,  465;  66  Fed.  Rep.,  283  (act  of  1890);  123  Fed. 
Rep.,  193  (act  of  1897).  „  ,  ^         ,„„  ,t   « 

•d  Dress  goods  of  wool  and  cotton.  T.  D.  10326;  11391;  38  Fed.  Rep.,  30;  40  Fed.  Rep.,  529;  139  U.  S., 
608;  139  U.S.,  612  (act  of  1883).  ^  m  t>   ,.„^ 

•  e  Fancy  French  flannels  used  for  making  ladies'  sacks  and  dresses  and  not  for  underwear.  T.  D.  17079 
(act  of  1894). 

•  /Flannels,  certain,  used  as  women's  and  children's  dress  goods.    T.  D.  11866  (act  of  1890). 
iff  Facings  of  haircloth  for  dress  skirts.    T.  D.  18228  (act  of  1894). 

«*  G  loria  cloth,  without  border,  composed  of  wool  or  worsted  and  cotton,  or  of  silk  and  wool  or  worsted,  silk 

chief  value.    T.  D.  12230, 14713, 16305;  54  Fed.  Rep.,  158;  59  Fed.  Rep.,  452  (act  of  1890);  16305,  also  act  of 

1894. 
«  Henriettas,  sUk  warp.    T.  D.  10571  (act  of  1883).  ,        ,  «»  > 

«i  Persian  flannels  composed  of  worsted,  cotton,  and  silk,  worsted  chief  value.    T.  D.  17385  (act  of  1894). 
Wt  Scotch  flannels,  used  chiefly  in  the  manufacture  of  outing  shirts.    T.  D.  17971  (act  of  1894). 
» I  Shirtings  of  cotton,  wool,  and  sUk.    T.  D.  10682  (act  of  1890). 

•m  Thibet  cloths  or  coatings.    37  Fed.  Rep.,  778  (act  of  1883).  .  .    ,.  „  ^ 

to  So-called  "brush  bindii^s,'*  for  protectmg  the  bottom  of  women's  skirts.    Dutiable  as  bmdings.    T.  D. 

21959  (act  of  1897). 
«*  Woolen  or  worsted  bhidMgs.    29  Fed.  Cas.,  1055  (act  of  1832).  ,  ^    _   ^^^ 

•a  Horse  blankets  are  dutiable  as  blankets.    T.  D.  15021  (act  of  1890);  22985;  24701;  25826  (abstract  4000) 

(act  of  1897). 

320S0°— H.  Doc.  342,  62-2,  vol  1 19 


T.  D.  21060 


290 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


291 


•»  Mexican  tarapes,  dutiable  as  blankets.    T.  D.  22377  (act  of  1897). 

*e  Cotton  blankets  containing  about  6  per  cent  of  wool,    T.  D.  20398  (act  of  1897). 

•  The  following  articles  have  been  held  to  be  dutiable  as  braids  of  wool  or  hair: 
•b  Braid  ornaments  of  horsehair.    T.  D.  11342  (act  of  1890). 

•6  Braids  composed  of  horsehair  and  cotton,  or  other  vegetable  fiber,  and  of  felt,  grass,  wood  shavings, 
cotton,  and  ramie.    T.  D.  11368;  12;J59;  12546;  13009;  15163  (act  of  1890).  _ 

•c  " Coxcomb "  braid  of  worsted  and  metal  threads,  metal  threads  chief  value.    T.  D.  16361  (act  of  1894). 

M  Worsted  braids  intended  to  ornament  women's  cloaks  or  waists.    T.  D.  19770  (act  of  1897). 

T  The  growth  on  skins  of  the  cabretta,  a  cross  between  a  sheep  and  a  goat,  is  dutiable  as  WOOL  T.D.  25411 
(abstract  1980);  26487;  27191;  27258;  28538  (act  of  1897). 

•  The  growth  on  Cape  sheepskins  as  third-class  wool.  T.  D.  11357;  (act  of  1890)  28632;  29119  (abstract 
19295);  31543  (abstract  25428)  (act  of  1897).  As  first-lass  wool.  T.  D.  10492  (act  of  1883);  29058;  29138  (act 
of  1897) 

•  Carbonhdng  Is  the  treatment  of  wool  with  a  bath  of  sulphuric  acid,  which  does  not  Iniure  the  animal 
flbw,  but  decomposes  the  burrs  and  other  vegetable  matter.  T.D.  1814  (act  of  1894).  Carbonized  wool  is 
provided  for  by  name  only  in  the  act  of  1S94.  Being  wool  advanced  beyond  the  washed  or  scoured  condition, 
ft  is  covered  by  paragraph  376  (1909);  364  (1897)7390  (1890). 

»  The  act  of  1894  provides  for  carbonized  noils  16  per  cent,  and  noils  free.  In  the  acts  of  1890, 1897,  and 
1909  noils  without  qualification  are  made  dutiable. 

"  Carded  waste  Is  not  provided  for  by  name  in  the  acts  of  1890, 1897,  and  1909,  but  is  covered  by  the  pro- 
vision for  all  other  wastes  not  specially  provided  for. 

w  Carpeting  composed  of  cotton  and  straw  or  grass,  cotton  chief  value,  dutiable  as  cotton  carpet.  T.  D. 
14315  (act  of  1890). 

Ma  Felt  carpeting  In  pieces  1 J  yards  wide  and  70  to  80  yards  long  dutiable  as  carpeting  of  wool.  T.  D.  20008 
(act  of  1897). 

"  h  Unwoven  wool  felt  commercially  known  as  felt  carpeting  dutiable  as  carpeting  of  wool.  T.  D.  21401 ; 
00  Fed.  Rep.,  260  (act  of  1897).  ,    ,        ,        ^  ^ 

H  ScKjaUed  "Angola  carpetmg",  composed  of  wool,  grass,  and  cotton,  held  to  be  a  two-ply  ingrain.  T.  D. 
1463  (act  of  1867). 

M  "Mats,  rugs  for  floors,  screens,  covers,  hassocks,  bed  sides,  art  squares,  and  other  portions  of  carpets  or 
carpeting,  made  wholly  or  in  part  of  wool,  and  not  specially  provided  for  in  this  section,  shall  be  suljjected 
to  the  rate  of  duty  herein  imposed  on  carpets  or  carpeting  of  like  character  or  description."  Par.  394  (1909); 
par.  382(1897);  par.  296(1894);  par.  408(1890).  „.  ^   ^^  ,    .    ,,o«x 

w  So-called  French  moquetto  carpeting  foimd  to  be  the  same  as  Axminster.    T.  D.  2638  (act  of  1875). 

w  Tapestry  Brussels  and  tapestry  velvet  carpet  claimed  dutiable  as  wool  carpet.  Overruled  because 
provided  for  by  name.    T.  D.  6060  (act  of  1883).  ^  .    .  . 

w  Mosaic  velvet  carpeting,  or  flgtiied  or  plain  velvet  carpethig,  composed  of  mohair,  jute,  or  cotton, 
dutiable  as  velvet  carpeting  and  not  as  Toumay  velvet  carpet.    T.  D.  13803  (act  of  1890). 

»»  A  certain  so-called  Dutch  wool  carpet  found  to  be  in  fact  Venetian  chain  carpet.    T.  D.  9632  (act  of  1883). 

»«  A  certain  carpet  woven  in  one  solid  color,  not  like  any  of  the  enumerated  carpets  held  to  be  dutiable 
as  wool  carpet.    T.  D.  4921  (act  of  1875).  ^   .     ^.  .     ,         „  -r.  ,««.«,    .   ,.«««v 

»  6  Carpeting  composed  of  horsehair,  cotton,  jute,  and  flax,  hair  chief  value.    T.  D.  13673  (act  of  1890). 

»  c  "  Drannick"  carpet  dutiable  as  wool  carpet.    T.  D.  13806  (act  of  1890). 

»d  Japanese  rugs  or  carpets  composed  of  cows'  hair,  hemp  or  jute,  and  cotton.    T.  D.  11542  (act  of  1890). 

»  «  Mats  compwed  of  cotton,  jute,  and  wool,  wool  chief  value.    T.  D.  14560  (act  of  1890). 

»  /  Pieces  of  wool  carpeting  with  woolen  lining.    T„  D.  15721  (act  of  1890). 

»  g  Rugs  made  of  woo!.    T.  D.  14732  (act  of  1890). 

»*  A  so^alled  "  durrie'*  carpet  as  wool  carpet.    T,  D.  18817.  .   .^.^.^    , 

«  The  commercial  distinction  between  a  carpet  woven  whole  and  a  rug  U  that  the  former  covers  entire 
floor,  but  the  latter  does  not.    T.  D.  9174  (act  of  1883). 

Bo  So^alled  Turkish  nigs  105  to  208  square  feet  held  to  be  carpets  woven  whole.    T.  D.  2577  (act  of  1872). 

«6  A  seamless  carpet  made  in  accordance  with  drawings  and  specifications  to  fit  a  particular  room  held 
to  be  a  carpet  woven  whole.    T.  D.  10926  (act  ot  1883). 

n  The  following  have  been  held  to  be  wool  cloth:  ,«  ^  ,,„.„,    . 

a  a  Cottonettes  of  cotton  and  wool,  cotton  predominating  in  quantity,  wool  In  value.    T.  D.  11853  (act 

a  b  Flannel  lawn-tennis  shirthig;  T.  D.  12960  (act  of  1890). 

"  e  A  heavy  felted  woolen  cloth.    T.  D.  12330  (act  of  1890). 

«cl  House  flannel,  so  called.     T.  D.  12238  (act  of  1890).  ,,,..,     ^  ,      ,^ 

»  «  Mackintosh  cloth,  a  woolen  cloth  and  a  woolen  and  cotton  cloth  joined  together  with  a  preparation 
Of  India  rubber,  wool  chief  value.    T.  D.  11699  (act  of  1890).  ^  t>  ,nmv.  /    *.looo^ 

a  /  Shirtings  composed  of  wool,  silk,  and  cotton,  wool  chief  value.    T.  D.  10726  (act  of  1883). 

a  <;  Tennis-ball  cloth.     T.  D.  17493  (act  of  1894).  ,     ..i.      ,  v  .^  *    u    ^  *,  u, 

a»  Under  the  act  of  1883  a  cloth  composed  of  cotton,  silk,  and  wool,  silk  value,  was  held  to  be  dutiable 
t8  a  nonenumerated  manufactured  article.    (135  U.  8.,  237.)  ,,..,.     ^  .  .    . 

a  i  So-called  cotton  skirting,  a  mercerized  colored  cotton  cloth  covered  with  polka  dots  composed  of 
goat  hair.    T.  D.  22082;  113  Fed.  Rep.,  817  (act  of  1897).  .  ^  .,  . , 

a  The  hair  of  the  Cashmere  goat,  sometimes  called  Chhia  brown  cashmere  wool,  dutiable  as  second-class 
WOOL    T.D.  23179  (act  of  1897).  ,    ^.  ,      ,       ^  *•  v.,  .    *         ,        ,       ^ 

«  Chenille  yam,  composed  of  wool  and  cotton,  wool  chief  value,  dutiable  as  manufacture  of  wool  and 
not  as  manufacture  of  fur.    T.  D.  17261  (act  of  1894).  tt  ^     *v       *     *,oo,      ^iono 

a  Under  the  acts  of  1890  and  1894  cloaks  were  provided  for  by  name.  Under  the  acts  of  1897  and  1909 
they  are  covered  by  the  provision  for  wearing  apparel  of  every  description. 

»  a  Cloaks  of  fur,  lined  with  wool,  or  vice  versa,  fur  chief  value,  held  dutiable  as  wool  wearing  appareL 
T.  D.  17952  (act  of  1894);  19249  (act  of  1897).    Note  new  provision  m  par.  439,  act  of  1909. 

»  b  Wool  cloaks,  beaded.    T.  D.  17941  (act  of  1894). 

a  a  Chuiese  trousers.    T.  D.  13674  (act  of  1890). 

a  6  Boys' suits.    T.  D.  10351  (act  of  1883). 

a  The  provision  by  name  for  coml>ed  wool  Is  found  only  in  the  act  of  1909. 

aC!ravenettecloth  Is  a  wool  cloth  subjected  to  a  process  which  renders  it  practically  waterproof  and  is 
used  principally  for  making  waterproof  coats  for  men  and  women.  It  was  classified  as  woolen  cloth,  but 
claimed  to  be  dutiable  as  waterproof  cloth,  n.  s.  p.  f.jpar.  369,  act  of  1890;  par  273,  act  of  1894.  The  Board 
of  General  Appraisers  susteined  the  assessment  hi  T.  D.  13792;  16066;  16303  (act  of  1890),  but  were  over- 
ruled by  the  courts  In  T.  D.  25139;  26124;  26170  (act  of  1890).  The  provisions  for  waterproof  cloth  hi  the 
acts  of  1890  and  1894  were  as  follows:  Valued  at  25  cents  or  less  per  square  yard.  1890,  40  per  cent;  1894,  25 
per  cent.    Valued  above  25  cents  per  square  yard,  1890,  15  cents  per  square  yard  and  30  per  cent;  1894, 

Under  the  acts  of  1897  and  1909  the  provision  for  waterproof  cloth  is  limited  to  such  as  is  composed  ol 
ootloa  or  other  vegetable  fiber,  whether  oompoeed  in  part  of  India  rubbw  or  otherwise 


T.  D.  23402  (act  of  « 
T.  D.  12925  (act  of  1890) 

T.  D.  16846  (act  of  1894). 
Under  the  acts  of  1897  and  1909 


i 


HnriAr  the  act  of  1909  raincoat  material  composed  of  cotton,  wool,  and  rubber,  rubber  chief  value,  haa 
i^rSd  to^  dutSble  as^manufacture  of  hidia  rubber.  T.  D.  31708.  The  Government  has  appealed 
O^  D  318^),  holdln|X?theTaterlal  is  a  cloth  composed  hi  part  of  wool  and  that  this  is  more  speclflo 
than  manufactures  of  Indiarubber  U.S.  p.  f.    ^     ,  ^.  , ,  ^    -^    j 

»The  followmg  articles  have  been  held  to  be  dutiable  as  embroideries: 

BaDjidjuns,  Turkish  portieres.    T.D.  24999  (act  of  1897). 

»  6  Mottoes  of  papet ,  celluloid,  ete.,  paper  chief  value,  embroidered  with  wool. 

a  c  A  woven  woolen  fabric  embroidered  with  metal  threads  for  women's  hats. 

a  d  Wearing  apparel  embroidered  with  wool.    T.  D.  22954  (act  of  1897). 

a  Wool  fascinators  are  dutiable  as  knit  wearmg  apparel  and  not  as  shawls. 

n  v»it  parnetin?  is  nrovlded  for  by  name  In  the  acts  of  1890  and  1894.    Ui 
u"s  outiaSe  i  cli?e?iS^  of  wool.    T.  D.  1011  (act  of  1867);  12249  (act  of  1890);  20008;  21401;  99  Fed.  Rep., 

^iS^rteilf"lappmg."    T.  D.  17167  (act  of  1894). 
aVhe  following  have  beeai  held  to  be  felts  not  woven: 
a  a  Com  plasters.    T.D.  12665;  17930  (act  of  1890). 

M  c  Feltenot^woven,  used  for  polishmg  glass,  composed  principally  of  cow  hair,  calf  hair,  and  goat  hair. 

'^M?S^tiSt-o^an  covers,  composed  of  unwoven  felt  printed  with  a  fancy  pattern.    T.D.  21402  (act  of  1897). 

a  Mohau- flocks,  as  flocks.    T.  D.  13002  (act  of  1890). 

ai  Beaded  cloth  fringes.    T.  D.  17189  (act  of  1890).         .      .  .        ^  •«    ^    •       *• 

M  iJnder  the  acts  of  1890, 1894,  and  1897  house  or  cabmet  furniture  of  wood  was  a  more  specific  designation 
than  manufactures  of  wool  not  specially  provided  for,  and  furniture  of  wood  and  wool  tepestry,  whether 
or  not  wool  was  chief  value,  was  dutiable  as  furniture  of  wood.  Under  the  act  of  1909  such  furmture  must 
be  whoUy  or  m  chief  value  of  wood.    T.D.  29645;  30211;  30504  (act  of  1897).  m  tm  on^o  /  «*  «f  i  «»n^ 

a  a  Goat  hau-  selected  and  bunched  for  brush  makers'  use,  24  cents  per  pound.    T.  D.  13942  (act  of  1890). 

»  6  Goat  hair  selected,  scoured,  bleached,  and  bunched  for  brush  makers'  use,  36  cents  per  pound.    T.  D, 

*»  ElStic^goruig'for  shoes,  composed  of  worsted,  cotton,  and  India  rubber,  as  gorings  and  not  as  india- 
rubber  fabrics.    38Fed.  Rep.  97;  144  U.S.  603  (act  of  1883). 
K  Hats  of  wool  were  provided  for  by  name  under  the  acts  of  1890  and  1894. 
The  following  articles  have  been  held  to  be  dutiable  as  hats: 
w  o  Alpaca  hats,  trimmed.     T.  D.  137S3  (act  of  1890). 
a  6  Argyle  hats  (ladies'  quilted  Alpme  hats).    T.  D.  12942  (act  of  1890). 
a  s  Camel's-hah-  hats.    T.  D.  18673  (act  of  1894). 
a  d  Felted  wool  hats,  varnished.    T.  D.  10565  (act  of  1883). 
a  «  Miners'  hats  of  wool  and  resm,  wool  chief  value.    T.  D.  13380  (act  of  1890). 
a*  The  following  articles  of  headwear  have  been  held  to  be  dutiable  as  wool  wearmg  apparel: 
ai  a  Felt  caps.    T.  D .  10860  (act  of  1890). 
ai  6  Fez  caps.    T.  D.  12025  (act  of  1890);  16655  (act  of  1894). 
al  e  Hats  of  hair  and  straw.    T.  D.  12938  (act  of  1890). 
a|  d  Oxford  caps  or  mortar  boards.    T.  D.  21026  (act  of  1897). 
at  e  Pith  helmets  covered  with  mohair.    T.  D.  14386  (act  of  1890). 
aj  /  Scotch  caps.    T.  D.  6718  (act  of  1883);  10961  (act  of  1890);  20620  (act  of  1894). 
«7J  a  Wool  caps.    T.  D.  12653  (act  of  1890).  ,    ,  ._..,/         ««^x      ^ 

a  The  act  of  1890  had  a  provision  for  articles  of  wearing  apparel  of  every  description  (par.  396)  and  one 
for  knit  fabrics  (par.  392).  Considerable  litigation  resulted  from  the  claims  of  importers  that  knit  hosiery 
should  be  assessed  under  par.  392  and  not  under  par.  396.  The  act  of  1894  provided  for  wool  knit  wearmg 
apparel,  and  the  acts  of  1897  and  1909  for  knitted  articles  of  every  description.  Wool  knit  hosiery  wasthe 
subject  of  the  foUowmg  decisions:  T.  D.  10335  (act  of  1883);  13888  (act  of  1890);  16310;  16657  (act  of  1894); 
26  Fed.  Rep.  303  (act  of  1875);  46  Fed.  Rep.  510;  147  U.  S.  494  (act  of  1890).  „,    ^  ,,«,,,     ^    ,  ,ooax. 

a  Ice  wool  squares  made  of  Angora  wool,  on  knittmg  machmes,  as  shawls.    T.  D.  14251  (act  of  1890), 
90  Fed.  Rep.,  796  (act  of  1894). 
«  Italian  cloth.    T.  D.  19252;  94  Fed.  Rep.,  641  (act  of  1894).  ^  ^      ^         _.  •      * 

«i  Jackets  are  provided  for  by  name  m  the  acts  of  1890  and  1894,  but  are  covered  by  the  provision  for 
wearing  apparel  of  every  description  in  the  acts  of  1897  and  1909.  .  .^ ..    .„  „  ^ 

a  a  &iit  fabrics  cover  piece  goods  only.    T.  D.  10817;  13888  (act  of  1890);  17818  (act  of  1894);  46  Fed. 
Rep.,  510  (act  of  1890). 
a  b  Baby-carriage  robes  as  wool  knit  fabrics.    T.  D.  16856  (act  of  1894). 

a  c  Hosiery  as  wool  knit  fabrics.    T.D.  10736  (act  of  1890).  ,       ^  ,  .    -^  j* 

a  Knit  wearing  apparel  held  to  mclude  articles  fashioned  by  knittmg  and  such  as  are  cut  from  a  knitted 
fobric  and  sewn.    T.  D.  16537  (act  of  1894). 
The  following  articles  have  been  held  to  be  knit  wearmg  apparel: 
«  a  Fascinators.    T.  D.  16846  (act  of  1894). 

a  b  Gloves,  cashmere.    T.  D.  10335  (act  of  1883);  16537  (act  of  1894). 
«  c  Hosiery  and  underwear.    T.  D.  10335  (act  of  1883);  16310;  16657  (act  of  1894). 

«  d  Knit  underwear  composed  of  wool  and  silk,  and  of  cotton,  wool,  and  silk.    T.  D.  10552  (act  of  188S). 
a  e  Knit  wearing  apparel  whether  outside  garments  or  not.    T.D.  16321  (act  of  1894). 
«  /  Ladles'  vests  of  wool  and  silk.    T.D.  10572  (act  of  1883). 
a  0  Scoteh  "bonnets."    33  Fed.  Rep.,  617  (act  of  1883). 
a  *  Scoteh  caps,  crocheted.    T.  D.  20620  (act  of  1894). 
a  i  Tam  O'Shanter  caps.    T.D.  16954;  16958;  20922  (act  of  1894). 

♦*  o  ChantlU  V  laces  composed  of  slDc  and  mohah,  silk  chief  value,  as  wool  lace.    T.  D.  14628  (act  of  1890). 
a  6  Horsehair  and  cotton  laces,  hair  chief  value.    T.  D.  17247  (act  of  1894). 
a  c  Silk  and  mohair  laces,  silk  chief  value.    87  Fed  Rep.,  193  (act  of  1890). 
a  d  Wool  lace.    T.  D.  25665  (abstract  3103)  (act  of  1897). 

a  Tb    growth  on  Mocha  sheepskms  held  to  be  not  wool.    T.D.  21739;  28190;  28195;  28210  (suite  423»-40); 
28248  (act  of  1897). 
«  a  Alpaca  noils  as  noils.    T.  D.  12680  (act  of  1890). 

a  6  Carded  wool  noils  from  improved  Turkish  wool  of  merino  blood,  scoured,  as  scoured  wool,  class  1. 
T.  D.  10495  (act  of  1883). 
a  c  Chmese  camels'  hair  noils  as  noils.    T.  D.  15232;  17207;  75  Fed.  Rep.,  834  (act  of  1890). 
*»d  Noils  as  wool.    T.  D.  379;  961  (act  of  1867). 

a  o  A  woolen  cloak  Imed  with  fur.  fur  chief  value.    T.  D.  19249  (act  of  1897). 
a  6  A  woolen  overcoat  lined  with  fur,  fur  chief  value.    T.  D.  31811  (act  of  1909). 

a  c  Fur-lined  wool  garments.  T.  D.  17282;  17283;  17952;  (act  of  1894).  The  act  of  1909 has  anew  pro- 
vision for  "articles  of  wearing  apparel  of  every  description,  partly  or  wholly  manufactured,  composed  of 
or  of  which  fur  Is  the  component  material  of  chief  value."    (par.  439.)    This  specific  provision  covers  gar- 


292 


REPOKT  OF  TABIFF  BOAKD  ON   SCHEDUtiE  K, 


BEFORT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD   ON   SCHEDUIiE  K. 


293 


i 


w. 


•1 


meats  which  underprevkms  acts  were  held  to  be  dutiable  under  the  general  provision  for  wearing  apparel 

UQ  U.1I3  wool  SCIiGUiUo* 

«o  Certain  Panderma  wool  held  to  be  third  class.    T.  D.  24082  (act  of  1897). 

«  Panderma  wool,  represented  by  standard  sample  No.  146,  held  to  befirstdass.    T.  D  25424  (actof  1897) 

«a  Piano  and  table  covers  as  manufactures  of  wool  unless  embroidered.    T.  D.  12365'  15545  (act  of  1«90) 

«»i>  Table  covers  composed  of  wool,  cotton,  and  metal,  cotton  chief  value.    T.  D.  10672  (act  of  1883). 

«•  The  following  articles  have  l>een  held  to  be  dutiable  as  pile  fabrics: 

>«a  So-called  "cream  lambskins."    T.  D.  12970  (act  of  1890). 

•«>  Certain  dress  goods  oommerolaUy  know  as  dross  goods  and  also  as  pile  fabrics.  V.  D.  14068  (act  of 
1890). 

««  Lap  robes  woven  with  a  looped  surface,  loops  cut.    T.  D.  11198  (act  of  1890) 

Md  Moquette  fabric  of  much  lighter  weight  than  carpeting.    T.  D.  11345  (act  of  1890). 

Me  Certiiin  upholstery  cloth.    T.  D.  12142  (act  of  1890). 

"/  Slipper  patterns  resembling  Brussels  carpet.    T.  D.  10895  (act  of  1890) :  24908  (act  of  1897) . 

Mo  Plushes  composed  of  goat  haJr,  silk,  and  cotton,  goat  hair  chief  value,  as  manufacture  ol  goat  hair 
and  not  as  manufacture  of  silk.    T.  D.  10677  (act  of  1883);  23  Fed.  Cas.,  1159  (act  of  1842). 

!1  «^?^®^  composed  of  cotton,  worsted,  and  silk  worsted  chief  value.    T.  D.  11073  (act  of  1883). 

aa  "The  word  'rags'  has  no  established  and  uniform  commercial  designation,  but  would  seem  to  cover 
any  old  torn  pieces,  smaU  or  large,  of  any  woven  fabric  which  has  subserved  one  purpose  and  comes  into 
the  market  as  second-hand  material."    T.  D.  28202  (act  of  1897). 

Ma  Portions  of  material  clipped  from  the  piece  in  the  course  of  making  garments  held  to  be  rags  rather 
than  waste.    T.  D.  21595;  25317;  26394;  26407  (act  of  1897).  -sa     t  « 

/  '?  Y,*^?"^  ®®^^°  ^^^  indiscriminately  mixed.    T.  D.  311  (act  of  1867);  3535;  4098  (act  of  1876);  24588 
(act  of  1897). 

M  Ribbons  made  of  wool  are  first  provided  for  by  name  in  the  act  of  1909.  They  were  covered  in  the 
previous  acts  by  the  provision  for  galloons  and  trimmings.    T.  D.  2C049;  28329  (act  of  1897). 

M  Ring  waste  and  white  ring  waste.    T.  D.  10728;  10752  (act  of  1883). 

»  The  practice  of  including  the  selvage  in  the  measurement  of  rugs  was  disputed  by  the  importers,  but 
decided  m  favor  of  the  Government  in  T.  D.  23470;  25384;  25878;  26041  (suit  3288);  26187  (act  of  1897),  and 
has  been  embodied  in  the  act  of  1900  in  a  provision  to  paragraph  391, "  That  in  the  measorement  of  all  mats, 
rugs,  carpet^s,  and  similar  articles,  of  whatever  material  composed,  the  selvage,  if  any,  shall  be  included.*' 

Rugs  made  as  rugs  distiimilshable  as  such.    157  U.  S.,  155  (act  of  1883). 

Chinese  goatskins,  tanned  with  the  hair  on.  not  dutiable  as  wool  rugs.    152  U.  S.,  681  (act  of  1883) 
f  ^/^JSS?  ^  ^^'  ^^*^  woolen  lining  and  border,  fUr  chief  value,  not  dutiable  as  wool  rug.    T.  D.  24301 

(act  Ol  1897). 

M  Cotton  rugs  made  as  rugs  and  not  made  up  from  carpeting,  held  dutiable  as  manufactures  of  cotton, 
n.  8.  p.  f.    T.  D.  24857  (act  of  1897).  * 

m"^.^^?^  ^^f  composed  of  jute,  hemp,  or  ramie  and  wool,  with  a  single  cut  pile  face,  as  oriental  rugs. 
Jl .  JU.  1^394  (act  of  1894). 
Mft  SUk  oriental  rugs.    T.  D.  18014  (act  of  1894). 

M  "Shawls,  being  articles  worn  upon  the  person,  are  nnquestionably  wearing  apparel."  T,  D.  22674 
(act  of  1897). 

Shawls  have  been  the  subject  of  the  following  decisions:  T.  D.  1535  (act  of  1867);  2821:  2838:  3104-  5117- 
6256  (act  of  1875);  59^;  91S0(actof  1883);  12247;  13878;  14251;  15021:15587;  17587  (act  of  1890);  16  Fed'.  Cas.! 
600  (act  of  184G);  49  Fed.  Rep.,  826;  53  Fed.  Rep..  1011  (act  of  1890);  16  How.,  251  (act  of  1846). 

'» Wool  or  worsted  shawls  embroidered  with  silk,  held  not  to  be  wool  embroideries.  T.  D.  2821  (act  ol 
1875);  12247;  13878;  17587;  49  Fed.  Rep.,  826;  53  Fed.  Rep.,  1011  (act  of  1890). 

•o  Alum-tanned  sheepskins,  wool  thereon  as  class  2  wool.    T.  D.  13804  (act  of  1890). 

•ft  Angora  goat  skins,  wool  thereon  as  class  2  wool.  T.  D.  11385  (act  of  1890).  As  raw  fur  akins  free. 
T.  D.  15699  (act  of  1890). 

•c  Australian  sheepskins,  as  raw  fur  skins  free.    T.  D.  31318  (act  of  1897), 

«M  Cabretta  skins,  the  growth  thereon  as  wool.  T.  D.  36487;  27191;  27258;  27649  (abstracts  13004)-  28538- 
28370;  124  Fed.  Rep.,  1000  (act  of  1897).    140  Fed.  Rep.,  116;  159  Fed.  Rep.,  189.  ^  ' 

•«  Cape  sheepskins,  growth  thereon  held  to  be  wool.  T.  D.  10492  (act  of  1883):  11357  (act  of  1890);  26404: 
28632;  29119  (abstract  19295),  29138;  31543  (abstract  25428)  (act  of  1897).  If  imported  prior  to  July  15,  1910 
as  class  1  wool,  according  to  standard  sample  137.  Subsequent  to  July  15, 1910,  as  class  3  wool  accordinie 
to  standard  sample  399  B.    Note  T.  D.  30786.  ^ 

•/  Dressed  sheepskins  as  manufacture  of  fur,  35  per  cent.    T.  D.  31680  (act  of  1909). 

«>ir  Hawaiian  sheepskins,  the  wool  thereon  dutiable.    T.  D.  3414  (act  of  1875). 

«»  Mocha  sheepskins,  under  the  act  of  1897.  T.  D.  25499  (abstracts  2365  and  2401);  26404;  the  growth 
thereon  as  class  3  wool  T.  D.  27190;  27279;  as  raw  skins  free  28190;  28195;  28210  (suits  4239/40);  28248. 

•oi  Partly  tanned  sheepkins,  as  skins  dressed  and  finished.    T.  D.  8502  (act  of  1883). 

•i  Shearlings,  so-called,  containing  from  IJ  to  2  pounds  of  wool,  the  wool  thereon  dutiable.  T.  D.  10208 
(act  of  1883). 

»*  Rules  for  finding  weight  of  wool  on  sheepskins.    T.  D.  1017;  1100;  1219;  1666;  22702. 

«  Extracts  cheviots  as  shoddy.    T.  D.  18151  (act  of  1894). 

«  Talmas  were  enumerated  in  the  acts  of  1890  and  1894.  Covered  by  the  provisions  for  wearine  annarel 
of  every  description  in  the  acta  of  1897  and  1909. 

«  The  act  of  1894  contained  a  provision  for  knit  wearing  apparel,  which  covered  these  goods  T.  D. 
10864:  16958;  20922. 

•*  Tennis  balls  of  rubber  and  wool,  rubber  chief  value,  under  the  act  of  1883  were  dutiable  as  manufac- 
tures of  wool.    T.  D.  10511. 

In  each  of  the  succeeding  acts  manufactures  in  chief  value  of  rubber  is  a  more  specific  provision  than 
manufactures  of  wool.  n.  s.  p.  f.    T.  D.  20822  (act  of  1894):  21673;  22300;  22360  (act  of  1897). 

«a  Broken  tops  dutiable  as  tope.    T.  D.  I(i086;  18737  (act  of  1894);  159  U.  S  ,  500  (act  of  1883). 

«fe  Swatches  of  scoured,  combed  and  dyed  Angora  goat  hair  adapted  for  use  In  making  dolls'  wigs  as  tons. 
T.  D.  17437  (act  of  1894).  o  i~- 

•c  Tops  in  balls,  as  manufactures  of  wool,  n.  s.  p.  f.    T.  D.  16085  (act  of  1894). 

*^«X**P*  ^°™  "P  *°^°  fragments  as  manufactures  of  wool,  n.  s.  p.  f.  46  Fed.  Rep.,  461  (act  of  1883). 

••  The  act  of  1890  contained  a  provision  for  rugs  (paragraph  408)  and  it  was  claimed  that  traveling  ruga 
were  included,  i^e  53  Fed.  Rep.,  1008  (act  of  1883).  In  the  acta  of  1894,  1897  and  1909  the  words  "for 
Doors    were  added. 

«7a  Wool  knit  undershirts  and  drawers  as  wo<^  wearing  apparel  under  the  act  of  1890  and  as  knit  wool 
weM-mg  apparel  under  the  act  of  1894.    T.  D.  13888  (act  of  1890);  16657  (act  of  1894);  46  Fed.  Rep.,  510;  147 

«6  Wool  and  silk  imderwear,  silk  chief  value,  as  silk  wearing  apparel.    T.  D.  14811  (act  of  1890) 
"Veils  held  to  be  wearing  apparel.    T.  D.  12342;  14714;  15866;   61  Fed.  Rep.,  52;  66  Fed.  Rep.,  724  (act 

••  Wool  waste  and  cotton  waste  mixed  as  wool  waste.    T.  D.  13217  (act  of  1880);  21409  (act  of  1897);  66 


'4  9 


L^^tjroro«^n%Sng?r  LthStoolJu  ?^;^^fp'Xloi  1846,    16  Jed.  Casjl2 

"'nfsweepings  from  mills  containing  not  over  1  per  cent  wool,  not  wool  waste,  but  tree  as  paper  stock. 

'^•J?.n?}hi^i°of^th?*words  'wearing  apparel'  Congress  intended  to  make  the  purpose,  adaptetion  and 
o^  of  Ml  artSte  Sid  LTTte  ooSSLS^signatioSfthe  test  of  its  dutiable  description."    1^  Fed.  Cas., 

*^h?^foUowfS"articles  have  been  held  to  be  wool  we^  oruioo /o^f  «f  1fia7^ 

4i  Automobae^at  of  fur,  Uned  with  a  woolen  fabric,  fur  cluef  value.    T.  D.  25629  (act  of  1897). 


m  ca"t^s"^f  wwCb^aded. '  T.  D.  17941  (act  of  1894) 

ne  chjWs'  blouse  ornamented  with  braid,    T.  D.  12954  (act  of  1890). 


T.D. 
T.D. 
T.  D. 


"dcwlr^  sES'SFSorcom^^^^^^^  the  soles  of  wood  fiber,  animal 

^^"ifoffiWwfeoth.-'r.Dao^^^^^^  ,     ,     ,         ^  .,    , 

nf  ESbroiderTw^rSg  apparel  whoUy  or  in  part  of  wool,  as  wearing  apparel  and  not  as  embroidered 

articles.    T.  D.  22893  (act  of  1897).    ,      ^      ^        ,       ,       m  t^  t«e.iA/'o«f«fi8ai^ 
no  Fascinators,  as  wearing  apparel  and  not  as  sbawls.    T  D.  1^  (act  of  1894). 
nh  Felt  caps,  as  wearing  apparel,  not  as  hats.  J v?- j^  (^^  of  1890) 
ni  Fez  caps,  as  wearing  apparel,  not  as  hats.    T.  D.  12025  (act  of  1890),  16655  (act  ol  1894),  w  i*ea.  Kep., 

*^i  FiVhni^ool  embroidered  with  silk,  not  as  shawls.    T.  D.  15329  (act  of  1890).  ,„  „  ^    _*  .,  \ 
«»HSrouI,^S^"iSs."T.D. '29449  (Ab.  20340)  29545  (Ab.  20609);  31214  (U.  S.  Court  Customs 

^^^Hai^o^f  hiS'straw.    T.  D.  12938  (act of  1890). 
Win  Hechima  slippers  in  part  of  wool.    T.  D.  17501  (act  of  1890). 
72«  Ladies' knit  shuts.    T.  D.  12998  (act  of  1890). 
no  Miners'  hats  of  wool  and  resin.    T.  D.  21674  ^t  of  1^7). 
»p  MuflHers  as  wearing  apparel,  not  as  shawls.    T.  D.  10864  (act  of  1880;. 
nq  Nuns'  veils.    T.D.I  1244  (act  of  1890). 

«f  Oxford  caps.    T.  D.  21026  (act  of  1897).  ^   ,iooA^ 

nt  Pith  helmets  covered  with  mohair.    T.  D.  14386  (act  of  1890). 
m  Raincoats  ol  wool,  cotton,  and  rubber,  cotton  chief  value.    T.  !>•  3W50  (act  of  1909). 
« u  Scotch  cans,  as  wearing  apparel,  not  as  hats.    T.  D.  10961  (act  of  1890). 
JsSwls.    ?.  D^  2821  (a?t  of  1875);  22674  (act  of  1897);  12  Fed.  Cas.,  836  (act  of  1832). 
WW  Shetland  veils,  not  as  shawls.    T.  D.  13979  (act  of  1890).  rioo^v  m  -n  ~v.~, 

nx  Tennis  jackets  of  cotton  and  wool,  cotton  ch^ef  value.  lOOF^.  Rep.,  ^„  (f  *  «/ /f  7)^;^:  ?JtSbv 
wy  Undershirts,  drawers,  hosiery,  and  gloves.  T.  D.  13888;  46  Fed.  Rep.,  510;  147  U.  S.,  494  (act of  1890J. 
nz  Waterproof  garments.    T.  D.  10389  (act  of  1883).  oo«7^ /onf  «f  1fi07^ 

w>»  Wearmg  apparel  of  cotton  and  wool,  cotton  chief  v^ue.    T-D.  22674  (^pf  1897). 
wfi  Wool  and  sUk  wearing  apparel,  wool  chief  value.    T.  D  J^12  (act  pj  lo9p;- 
n^  Wool  and  silk  wearing  apparel,  silk  chief  value.    T.  D.  20993  (act  of  1897). 
'•^P  Wool  caps  axj  not  hats.    T.  D.  12653  (act  of  1890).  ,^.„  ,    ^   ,^n«.,^ 

n«Woolen?amentslined  with  fur.    T.b.l7282;  17283  (act  of  1894);  19249  (act  of  1897). 
Woo  "Clown  sets"  and  other  imiforms  for  children  held  to  be  toys  and  not  wool  wearing  apparel. 

^S'nlte  oFhS^hSi  iTt^woJfwe^  apparel  under  the  act  of  1897;  by  similitude,  as  straw  hats. 
OQAQo   30226 
»  vfebbing  of  wool,  cotton  and  India  rubber,  India  rubber  chief  value,  as  wool  clastic  webbing. 

^^f?The^diviS  of  wools  for  duty  purposes  into  three  classes  accordmg  to  the  character  of  the  fleece  and 
the  use  to  which  applied  was  first  introduced  into  the  act  of  March  2, 1867,  wherem  it  was  provided  t^ 
"  All  wools,  hair  of  the  alpaca,  goat,  and  other  like  animals,  as  aforesaid,  shall  be  divided,  for  the  purpose 
ol  fixing  the  duties  to  be  charged  thereon,  into  three  classes,  to  wit:  „^i„  ^#  ,««„•«« 

Class  1.—  Clothing,  u'ooZ.— That  is  to  sav,  merino,  mestiza,  metz.  or  metis  wools,  or  otner  wools  of  mermo 
blood,  immediate  or  remote;  down  clothing  wools,  and  wools  of  like  character  with  any  of  the  preceding, 
including  such  as  have  been  heretofore  usually  imported  into  the  Umted  States  from  Buenos  Aires,  New 
Zealand,  Australia,  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  Russia.  Great  Britain,  Canada,  and  elsewhere,  and  also  mcludmg 
all  wools  not  hereinafter  described  or  designated  in  classes  two  and  three.    ,  .       ^  ,  .  , 

Class  2.— Combing  wools.— ThAt  is  to  say,  Leicester,  Cotswold,  Lincolnshire,  down  combing  wools,  or 
other  like  combing  wools  of  English  blood,  and  usually  known  by  the  terms  herein  used,  and  also  aU  hair 
of  tlie  alpaca,  goat,  and  other  like  animals.  ^  ^      ,    .       ^.      c     ^^^   x        -^      n-.-^«„« 

Class  3.— Carpet  wools  and  other  similar  wools.— Such  as  Donskoi,  native  South  American,  Cordova, 
Valparaiso,  native  Smyrna,  and  including  all  such  wools  of  like  character  as  have  been  heretofore  usually 
imported  into  the  United  States  from  Turkey,  Greece,  Egypt,  Syria,  and  elsewhere.' 

The  acts  of  1883  and  1890  contained  the  identical  provision  for  class  1  wools.  In  the  acts  of  1897  and 
1909  the  provision  was  somewhat  enlarged,  as  follows:  .      ».,    j  . 

"Class  one,  that  is  to  say,  merino,  mestiza,  metz,  or  metis  wools,  or  other  wools  of  mermo  blood,  imme- 
diate or  remote.  Down  clothing  wools,  and  wools  of  like  character  with  any  of  the  preceding,  mcludmg 
Bagdad  wool,  China  lamb's  wool,  Castei  Branco,  Adrianople  skin  wool  or  butcher's  wool,  and  such  as 
have  been  heretofore  usually  imported  into  the  United  States  from  Buenos  Aires,  New  Zealand,  Aus- 
tralia, Cape  of  Good  Hope,  Russia,  Great  Britain,  Canada,  Egypt,  Morocco,  and  elsewhere,  and  aU  wools 
not  hereinafter  included  in  classes  two  and  three."  .     „  .     .     j     -xt.  j_i 

The  act  of  July  14,  1832,  provided  that  if  any  unported  wool  "shall  be  fine  wool  mixed  with  dirt  or 
other  material,  and  thus  reduced  in  value  to  8  cents  per  poimdj  or  under,  the  appraisers  shall  appraise 
saiii  wool  at  such  price  as  in  their  opinion  it  would  have  cost  had  it  not  been  so  mixed,  and  a  duty  thereon 
shall  be  charged  iu  conformity  with  such  appraisal."  .  jj  j  v     • 

A  similar  provision  was  con  tamed  in  the  succeeding  tariff  acts  and  other  -nrovisions  were  added  l^vmg 
tot  their  object  the  prevention  of  practices  by  which  the  payment  of  the  proper  duty  might  be  evaded. 

These  provisions  are  contained  m  paragraph  368  of  the  act  of  1909,  which  is  as  follows:  "  The  duty  up<m 
wool  of  the  sheep  or  hair  of  the  camel,  Angora  goat,  alpaca,  and  other  like  animate,  of  class  one  and  claa 
two,  which  shall  be  imported  ui  any  other  than  ordinary  condition,  or  which  has  been  sorted  or  increased 
in  vame  by  tlie  rejection  of  any  part  of  the  origmal  fleece,  shall  be  twice  the  duty  to  which  it  would  be  other- 
wise subject:  Provided,  That  skuted  wools  as  imported  in  eighteen  hundred  and  ninety  and  prior  thereto 
■re  hereby  excepted.  The  duty  upon  wool  of  the  sheep  or  hair  of  the  camel.  Angora  goat,  alpaca,  and 
other  like  aniinais  of  any  class  which  shall  be  changed  in  its  character  or  condition  for  the  purpose  of 


294 


BEPORT  OF  TABIFF  BOABB  OIT  SCHEDULE  K. 


*  BEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDUL»E  K. 


295 


i 


erading  the  duty,  or  which  shall  be  reduced  in  value  by  the  admixture  of  dirt  or  any  other  foreign  sab. 
stance,  shall  be  twice  the  duty  to  which  it  would  be  otherwise  subject.  When  the  duty  assessed  uSmi  any 
wool  equals  three  times  or  more  that  which  would  be  assessed  iAsaid  wool  was  iniportpd  unwashed  the 
duty  shaU  not  be  doubled  on  account  of  the  wool  being  sorted.  If  any  bale  or  package  of  wool  or  hair 
specified  to  this  act  tovoiced  or  entered  as  of  any  spetifted  cltiss,  or  claimed  by  the  importer  to  be  duti- 
able as  of  any  specified  class,  shall  contain  any  wool  or  hair  subiect  to  a  higher  rate  of  duty  than  the  class 
so  specified,  the  whole  bale  or  package  shall  be  subject  to  the  highest  rate  of  duty  chargeable  on  wool  of 
the  class  subject  to  such  higher  rate  of  duty,  and  if  any  bale  or  package  be  claimed  by  the  Importer  to  be 
shoddy,  mungo,  flocks,  wool,  hair,  or  other  material  of  any  class  specified  to  this  act,  and  such  bale  con- 
tarn  any  admixture  of  any  one  or  more  of  said  materials,  or  of  any  other  material,  the  whole  bale  or 
Sickage  shall  be  subject  to  duty  at  the  highest  rate  imposed  upon  any  article  to  said  bale  or  package." 
ote  T.  D.  25168,  27515. 

Paragraph  395,  act  of  1909:  "Whenever,  to  any  schedule  of  this  act,  the  word  'wool'  Is  used  to  connec- 
tion with  a  manufactured  article  of  which  it  is  a  component  material,  it  shall  be  held  to  toclude  wool  or 
hair  of  the  sheep,  camel,  goat,  alpaca,  or  other  animal,  whether  manufactured  by  the  woolen,  worsted, 
felt,  or  any  other  process.' 

Manufectures  wholly  or  in  part  of  horsehair  not  as  wool,  but  accordtog  to  other  component  materials. 
T.  D.  21786,  24639  (act  of  1897J. 

Cattle  hair  felt  not  as  wool.    T.  D.  34S10  (act  of  1897). 

Kid  hair  as  wool.    T.  D.  27348  (abstract  11213);  27417  (act  of  1897). 

SAMPLSfl. 

Paragraph  364,  act  of  1909:  "The  standard  samples  of  all  wools,  which  are  now  or  may  be  hereafter  de- 
posited m  the  principal  customhouses  of  the  Umted  States,  under  the  authority  of  the  Secretary  of  the 
Treasury,  shall  be  the  standards  for  the  classification  of  wools  under  this  act,  and  the  Secretary  of  the 
Treasury  is  authorized  to  renew  these  standards  and  to  make  such  additions  to  them  from  time  to  time 
m  may  he  required,  and  he  shall  cause  to  be  deposited  like  standards  to  other  customhouses  of  the  United 
States  when  they  may  be  needed." 

Paragraph  365:  "  Whenever  wools  of  class  3  shall  have  been  improved  by  the  admixture  of  merino  or 
English  blood,  from  their  present  character  as  represented  by  tno  standard  samples  now  or  hereafter 
to  be  deposited  to  the  prtocipal  customhouses  of  the  United  States,  such  improved  wools  shall  be  classified 
lor  duty  either  as  class  1  or  as  class  2,  as  the  case  may  be." 

The  standard  samples  now  in  use  are  described  to  T.  D.  22681,  which  also  contains  a  useful  report  by 
Mr.  O.  W.  Bond  on  classification  of  wool.    (See  also  T.  D.  30786.) 

w  «  Unwashed  wools  shall  be  considered  such  as  shall  have  been  shorn  from  the  sh'>ep  without  any  cleans- 
ing; that  is,  in  their  natural  condition.  Washed  wools  shall  be  considered  such  as  have  been  washed  with 
water  only  on  the  sheep's  back,  or  on  the  skto."    ( Par.  367,  act  of  1909.) 

The  provision  that  the  duty  on  washed  wool  shall  T)e  twice  the  amount  of  unwashed  means  double  the 
rate  and  not  a  computation  of  the  amount  of  duty  on  the  weight  of  the  unwashed  wool  and  then  double 
this  amount.    (9  Fed.  Cas.,  573;  R.  8.,  sec.  2504.) 

w  "  Wools  of  the  first  and  second  classes  washed  to  any  other  manner  than  on  the  sheep's  back  or  on  the 
skto  shall  be  considered  as  scoured  wool."    (Par.  367,  act  of  1909.) 

^  The  provision  for  second-class  wool  remained  the  same  to  the  acts  of  1883, 1890, 1897,  and  1909,  except 
that  in  the  last  two  acts  hair  of  the  camel  was  added  and  goat's  hair  was  limited  to  Angora  goat's  ha&. 
"  Wool  picktogs"  from  Canada  as  second  class.    T.  D.  136  (act  of  1867). 

»  The  provision  for  thh-d-class  wool  was  unchanged  to  the  act  of  1883;  to  the  acts  of  1S90, 1897,  and  1909 
Russian  camel's  hair  was  added  and  the  further  provision  that:  "Whenever  wools  of  class  3  shall  have 
been  improved  by  the  admixture  of  mertoo  or  English  blood  from  their  present  character  as  represented 
^  the  standard  samples  now  or  hereafter  to  be  deposited  to  the  prtocipal  customhouses  of  the  United 
States,  such  improved  wools  shall  be  classified  for  duty  either  as  class  1  or  as  class  2,  as  the  case  may  be." 
Karkouk  wool  as  third  class.  T.  D.  26261  (abstract  1222)  (act  of  1897). 
Marwar  wool  as  third  class.    T.  D.  26164  (abstract  5200)  (act  of  1897). 

Quality  and  not  place  of  orlgto  of  wool  governs  classification.    116  Fed.  Rep.  99  (act  of  1897). 
Wool  classified  according  to  blood,  regardless  of  coarseness,  fineness,  etc.    T.  D.  361  (act  of  1867). 
In  the  phrase  "wools  of  merino  blood.  Immediate  or  remote,"  "remote"  is  limited  to  me^n  within  the 
limits  of  merino  blood  requisite  to  characterize  the  wool  as  possesstog  merino  qualities  and  adding  to  the 
value.    42  Fed.  Rep.  668  (act  of  1883). 

Wool,  remotely  of  mertoo  blood,  from  the  Island  of  Curacao,  held  to  be  class  1  wool.    T.  D.  21345  (act 
011897). 
Lekjester  wool,  irrespective  of  country  of  origin.  Is  dutiable  as  class  2  wool.    T.  D.  26606  (act  of  1897). 
w  Under  the  act  of  1890  wools  on  the  skto  paid  the  same  rate  as  other  wools. 

•o  Wool  and  flax  fabrics,  flax  chief  value,  were  decided  to  be  dutiable  as  flax  fabrics.    T.  D.  25258,  25431, 
27897,  27921 J  28105,  28516,  28588,  28648  (act  of  1897),  31624  (abstract  25308)  (act  of  1909). 
The  provisions  for  flax  fabrics  are  as  follows: 

Act  of  1890:  If  containing  over  100  threads  per  squaw  Inch,  35  percent;  If  oontalntog  not  over  100  threads 
per  square  inch,  50  per  cent. 
Act  of  1894:  All  manufactures  of  flax,  35  per  cent. 

Act  of  1897:  Weighing  4^  ounces  or  more  per  square  yard,  oontalntog  not  over  60  threads  to  square  Inch, 
li  cents  per  square  yard+30  per  cent;  contatatog  over  60  but  not  over  120  threads  to  square  inch,  2f  centa 
per  square  yard4-30  per  cent;  contatotogover  120  threads  but  not  over  180  to  square  inch,  6  cents  per  square 
yard+30  per  cent;  containing  over  180  threads  to  square  inch,  9  cents  per  square  yard+30  per  cent.  None 
Of  the  foregotog  shall  pay  less  than  60  per  cent. 

Weightog  less  than  4  J  ounces  per  square  yard,  oontalntog  over  100  threads  to  square  inch,  35  per  cent; 
oontaintag  not  over  100  threads  to  square  inch,  45  per  cent. 

Act  of  1909:  Simflar  to  acl  of  1897,  except  that  provision  for  fabrics  weightog  less  than  4  J  ounces  per  square 
yard  is  limited  to  plain  woven  fabrics,  and  those  containtog  not  over  100  threads  to  square  toch  pay  30  per 
cent  instead  of  46  per  cent. 

'^  Prior  to  the  act  of  1890  manufactures  of  wool  and  manufactures  of  worsted  were  dutiable  at  different 
rates.    (144U.S.  1.) 

The  foUowtog  articles  were  held  to  be  manufactures  of  worsted:  Cloths  known  as  "diagonals,"  "cork- 
■crews,"  "fancy  weaves,"  etc.  30  Fed.  Rep.  425;  41  Fed.  Rep.  921;  137  U.  S.  95  (act  of  1883).  Cotton 
canvas  embroidered  with  worsted.  38  Fed.  Rep.  95  (act  of  1883).  Astrakhans.  T.D.  11678  (act  of  1883). 
Moreens.  T.D.  11218  (act  of  1883).  Worsted  dress  goods.  169  U.  S.  209  (act  of  1894).  T.  D.  11086  (act  ol 
1890);  15335  (act  of  1894). 

Act  of  May  9, 1890:  "Beit  enacted  hp  (he  Senate  and  House  of  Representatives  of  the  United  States  of  A  merieti 
in  Congress  asseml>led.  That  the  Secretary  of  the  Treasury  be,  and  he  hereby  is,  authorized  and  directed 
to  classify  as  woolen  cloths  all  Imports  of  worsted  cloth,  whether  known  under  the  name  of  worsted  cloth 
or  under  the  names  of  worsteds,  or  diagonals,  or  otherwise."  Promulgated  In  T.  D.  10020.  "Worsted 
ooattogs''  and  "oottoa  backed  worsteds^'  under  the  act  of  1883.   (39JPed.  Rep.  190.) 


..I 


«l  Ooftt-haif  yam  from  the  hair  of  the  common  goat  as  wool  yam.  T.  D.  31624  (abstract  K37p)  (act  of 
1  Jw^  SoS  led  c^t  yarn, composed  of  wool  waste, cows'  hair  etc. ,  as  wool  yarn.  T.  D.  323  (act  of  1867). 
*^<'ai,,^nt  ovS  40  (ints  per  iwund,  33  cents -per  pound  and  50  per  cent;  valued  over  40  cents  and  not 
orerl^^li&P^^d^^^^Pomid  and^50  per  cent;  valued  over  70  cents  per  pound,  44  cents 

^^e'lfiS^Sj^noTprovided  for  by  name  to  the  acts  of  1897  and  1909.    Dutiable  as  carpeting  of  wool. 
S  vSKt^ver  70  ^nte  per  poundf  11  cents  per  square  yard  and  50  per  cent;  valued  ovw  70  cents  per 

^^otton'^JSS^'eJ^iyJxctod^^^^^  '^iP^iT.^PJi.Pn^f  ?Sq^7^/ D*^^?^  ^^  ^^ 

ffTanh  381  but  are  dutiable  as  manufactures  of  cotton^  paragraph  322,  act  of  1897.    T.  D.  24857. 
^^vS)l'baidings  are^^     provided  for  by  name  to  eicfier  the  acts  of  1890  or  1894,  but  are  generaUy  of  the 
same  character  as  some  of  fhe  goods  covered  by  paragraphs  398  and  286,  respectively. 

^MS^tSSof  wool  beadid  are  not  provided  for  by  name  in  the  act  o(l894.  If  "known  commer- 
ciTuvMlSSS  beaded  or  jet  trimmtogs  or  ornaments,"  covered  by  paragraph  354  at  35  per  cent.  U  not 
^kJown,  w)vered  by  pariigraph  283,  at  40  per  cent  if  valued  not  over  50  cents  per  pound;  at  60  per  cent  if 

^i^SinuhtS^re  of  wSo^'Cded  are  not  provided  for  by  name  to  the  act  of  1890.    Covered  by  paragraph 

^^l  UnderThe  act^of^89?theprovision  was  as  foUows:  Valued  not  over  30  cents  per  pound,  25  per  cent; 
valued  over  30  cents  and  not  over  40  cents  per  pound,  30  per  cent;  valued  over  40  cents  per  pound,  35  per 

**w  Under  the  act  of  1890  the  provision  was  as  follows:  Valued  not  over  30  cents  per  pound,  16i  cents 
oound  and  30  per  cent;  valued  over  30  cents  and  not  over  40  cents  per  pound,  22  cents  per  pound  and  35 
percent-  valued  over  40  cents  and  not  over  60  cents  per  pound,  33  cents  per  pound  and  35  per  cent; 
valued  over  50  cents  per  pound,  38i  cents  per  pound  and  40  per  cent.      ,     ^      ^  „„       4.  ^  « 

w  In  the  act  of  1894  the  line  of  division  was  50  cents  per  pound;  those  valued  not  over  50  cents  were  duti- 
able at  40  per  cent;  those  valued  over  50  cents,  at  60  pr  cent.  x.««-4.# 

M  Tournay  velvet  carpets  being  specially  provided  for  held  not  to  be  covered  by  paragraph  297,  act  or 
1894.  which  postponed  the  takmg  effect  of  the  act  on  "manufactures  of  wool"  untU  January  1,  1895.  71 
Fed!  Rep.  513.    Daghestan  mgs  held  to  be  dutiable  at  same  rate  as  Tournay  velvet  carpets.    48  Fed.  Rep., 

M  In  the  act  of  1894  the  duty  on  wool  yams  was  30  per  cent  if  valued  not  over  40  cents  per  pound,  and 
40  per  cent  if  valued  over  40  cents  per  poimd.  ,     .    ^   ^        .,  ,«  ^   r/.  * 

»«Valued  at  less  than  $1.50  per  pound,  45  per  cent;  valued  at  above  $1.50  per  pound,  50  per  cent. 

••  Valued  not  over  60  cents  per  pound,  40  per  cent;  valued  over  50  cents  per  pound,  50  per  cent. 

••  Wool  edgings  are  not  mentioned  by  name  to  the  acts  of  1890  or  1894,  but  were  dutiable  as  laces  under 
paragraphs  398  and  286,  respectively.  j  ,    xv       *     #  lon^   -.a 

^1  "The  provision  "all  articles  embroidered  by  hand  or  machmery"  is  not  found  to  the  acts  of  1890  ana 

1894 

M  Valued  not  over  40  cents  per  pound,  35  per  cent;  valued  over  40  cents  per  poimd,  40  per  cent. 

w  Flouncmgs  were  not  separately  provided  for  to  the  acts  of  1890  and  1894,  which,  however,  contatoed  a 
nrovision  for  dress  trimmmgs.    Silk  and  mohair  flounctog.    T.  D.  18843  (ac^t  of  1890.)      .      ^      ^ 

100  Men's  cashmere  gloves,  cut  and  fashioned  from  a  knit  fabric,  as  kmt  weanng  apparel  and  not  as  wool 
wearmg  apparel  n.  s.  p.  f.    T.  D.  10335  (act  of  1883);  16537  (act  of  1894).  ^        ,    „  *^  *  # 

"I  The  acts  of  1890  and  1894  contatoed  no  provision  for  msertings,  but  these  goods  assttnilated  to  some  of 
the  articles  enumerated  to  pars.  398  and  286,  respectively.  ^   .^  4. 

i«  Valued  not  over  40  cents  per  pound,  35  per  cent;  valued  over  40  cents  per  pound,  40  per  cent. 

«a  Spangled  manufactures  of  wool  were  not  provided  for  by  name  to  the  acts  of  1890  and  1894,  but  were 
mostly  such  articles  or  fabrics  as  were  covered  by  pars.  398  and  286,  respectively. 

iM  Under  the  act  of  1890  the  provision  for  buntmg  was  as  follows:  Weighmg  not  over  4  ounces  to  the 
square  yard,  12  cents  per  square  yard  and  60  per  cent;  weightog  over  4  ounces  to  the  square  yard,  44  cents 

per  pound  and  50  jier  cent.  ,,.^  ^ij  nn       *.  x,  4.  „..«. 

*io5*valued  not  over  30  cents  per  pound,  33  cents  per  pound  and  40  per  cent;  valued  over  30  cents  but  not 
over  40  cents  per  pound,  38J  cents  per  pound  and  40  per  cent;  valued  over  40  cents  per  pound,  44  cents  per 
pound  and  50  per  cent.  .  ^„,        ,  . 

io«  In  the  act  of  1890  the  duty  on  wool  yams  was:  Valued  not  over  30  cents  per  pound,  27*  cents  per  pound 
and  35  per  cent;  valued  over  30  cents  but  not  over  40  cents  per  pound,  33  cents  per  pound  and  36  per  cent; 
valued  over  40  cents  per  pound,  38i  cents  per  pound  and  40  per  cent.  ,^.    4.     ,. 

i«  Valued  not  over  30  cents  per  pound,  lt>i  cents  per  pound  and  30  per  cent;  valued  over  30  cents  but  not 
over  40  cents  per  pound,  22  cents  per  pound  and  35  per  cent;  valued  over  40  cents  but  not  over  60  cents 
per  pound,  33  cents  per  pound  and  35  per  cent;  valued  over  50  cents  per  pound  and  weighmg  not  over  4 
ounces  per  square  yard,  12  cents  per  square  yard  and  60  per  cent;  valued  over  50  cents  per  pound  and 
weighmg  over  4  ounces  per  square  yard,  44  cents  per  pound  and  50  per  cent.  .    „         1         ». 

"»  Knit  wearmg  apparel,  such  as  undershirts,  drawers,  hosiery,  gloves,  etc.,  made  up  whoUy  or  to  part 
on  knitting  machmes  or  frames,  comiwsed  whoUy  or  to  part  of  wool,  worsted,  etc.,  dutiable  as  weanng 
apparel  and  not  as  knit  fabrics.    T.  D.  13888  (act  of  1890).  ....         ,«       .  j 

108  Under  the  act  of  1890,  third-class  wool  was  dutiable  at  32  per  cent  if  valued  not  over  13  cents  per  pound; 
at  50  per  cent  if  valued  over  13  cents  per  pound.  .     ■,   . .  ,.1        « 

»")o  Ramcoats  to  part  of  wool  (wool,  cotton  and  robber,  cotton  chief  value),  held  to  be  dutiable  as  "wear- 
ing apparel  to  part  of  wool"  and  not  as  "wearing  apparel  of  which  cotton  is  the  component  material  of 
^ef  value  n.  s.  p.  f."    T.  D.  31350  (act  of  1909).  ,  ,    *    *   * 

110  6  Ramcoats  to  part  of  wool,  robber  chief  value.  Held  to  be  dutiable  as  "wearing  ^VP^^**^ 
composed  ♦  •  •  to  part  of  wool"  and  not  as  manufactures  of  todia  robber,  n.  s.  p.  i.  T.  D.  3172IL 
(act  of  1909). 


11 


PART  II.  RAW  WOOLS-SECTION  1. 


MARKET  GRADES  AND  COMPARATIVE  PRODUCTION 

COSTS. 


J 


297 


( 


REDUCTION 


RATIO 


^3^m  ■    m 


GIRMAITT         BULGAKU 

25.6  23.7 


AKGorriiA 

414.0 


UVITID 
STATIS 

328.1 


RUSSIAI 
IMPISB 

238.8 


ZIALAITDI 

174.6 


UVITID 
DSOBOHl 

142.3 


129.9 


USUGUAT 


n  Fi  r=i  Fi  f=i  Fi 

84.3  ■          65.01  52.01  49.0 p  41.6^  |35.0p 

FRAVCI                   BSITISH  SPAUT  CHIHISI  AUSTRU-  ITALY 

JSDIA  UPISI  EiniGAST 


aggaaaaa 


CHILI  ROUMAjRIA        grxeck  pkksia 

20.8  15.6  15.0  12.2 


S£RVIA 
11.1 


CAITADA        POSTUGAL 

10.7         10.0 


47.61 


MEXICO  ALL  OTHSS 

COUHTRIES 


nouu  s 
COMPARATIVE  NUMBER  OF  SHEEP 


PRINCIPAL  COUNTRIES  OF  THE  WOBLI) 
1909 


THE  TARIFF  BOARD 

RAW  WOOL 

LATEST  AVAILABLE 
STATISTICS 


COMPILED 
MAY19U 


^ 


^ 


** 


uauaiTi  OF  40  mhuoi  wwm 
or  puuLKD  woof 


Mouse  Doc.  No.  342    ;  e2d  Cong..  2d  Sms. 


REDUCTION 


RATIO 


12:1 


o 
a: 


^. 


> 
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IMPORTS  OF  WOOL 


■T  eoiyvnns  asb 


YEAR  ENDING  JUNE  30.  1»10 


WHH:mp*  «if  riiit»«i«T  iiii.i.i««»  ur  r«»««i» 


•SO 


7M 


IM 


TOTAL  WORLD 
PRODUCTION 

2,985.0 


neuBi  t 


WORLD  PRODUCTIOlf  OF  WOOL 


BY  PRINCIPAL  COUNTRIES 


1909 


rwriiK*  mrsMEHT  MiLLWiia  or  rovvsa 


0TT01IAV 


718.0 


131.0 


BRITISH  soirra 

AHD  KAST 
AFRICA 


UR1 


!• 


ALGERIA 
33.0 


GIRMi^n 

25.6 


^ 


PERU 


mzico 


OTTOKAH  SMPIRS 


»S    CO      ^ 


^  i  3  i  H I 


M     S     d     eS        3 

^  ?  S    ^ 


51      5     g 


nerai4 
COMPARATIVE  WOOL  PRODUCTION 

or 
PRINCIPAL  REGIONS  OF  THE  WORLD 

1909 


BRITISH  IHBUi 


nW  ZIALAV]>(6.3, 


FRAVCBfS. 


GSRMAHY^ 

2.9 


PRODUCTION  OF  RAW  WOOL  IN: 


BELGIUK 
2.3 


CAlfABAi 

L9 


nevii  6 
DOMESTIC  WOOL  PRODUCTION 

BY  STATES 
1910 


CLASS  8 


PERSIA 

1.6 


AIX  OTHER 
COUHTRIES 


GLASS  8 


I 


/  ^^^ 


J^ 


.# 


J" 


<P-  4^  J^         c^        ^  ^ 

6,-        /"^         /^^'        /"^  O^  ^  ^         ^  ^         ^ 

(-9  (-)  ©  0  0  g  ©*  @*  0^ 


iHCLUSTTI  of  40  KnUOH  POUVM 
OF  PULLED  WOOL> 


rwf  NOftms  F£Ti.  <■:.  .;o.    a'.a5H,;.', 


MMtMl  WaMt  Rt 


WORLD 

»ncnoH 


b85.0 


▲QSTSiLLU 

718.0 


AMsanaA 
414.0 


UVITID 
8TAT1S 

328.1 


RUSSIAV 

mpiRi 

238.8 


vxw 

ZEALAVB 

174.6 


xoreooxi 
142.3 


lOH  OF  WOOL 


COUNTBIES 


137.1 


131.0 


129.9 


10 


84.3 


11 


It 


65.0 


52.0 


OTTOMAV 


«iu.i*wi  •»  mtnmm 


BRITISH  SOUTH 

ABB  SAST 

AFRICA 


URUGUAY 


FRAHCI 


BRITISH 
IHBIA 


IT 


It 


It 


ALGERIA 
33.0 


GIRMAHT 
25.6 


BULGARU 
23.7 


CHILI 

20.8 


M 

KomiAinA 
15.6 


GRXICI 

15.0 


PIKSIA 

12.2 


^ 


47.6 


PERU 


MEXICO         ALL  OTHER 
COUHTRIES 


nGTJlS  3 


COMPARATIVE  NUMBER  OF  SHEEP 


nr  Tm 


PRINCIPAL  COUNTRIES  OF  THE  WORLD 


1909 


la 


14 


It 


49.0 


41.6 


35.0 


AUSTKU- 
HDVGAST 


HALT 


a  3  g 


&  n 


SERVU 
11.1 


CAIADA 

10.7 


PORTITGAL 
10.0 


THE  TARIFF  BOARD 


RAW  WOOL 


LATEST  AVAILABLE 


COMPILED 

MAY19U 


House  Doc.  Ho.  342    ;  62d  Cong.,  2d  Sou. 


) 


;v 


WOOL  PEODITCTIOlSr    HT  THE   XTinTED    STATES  AITO    DST   THE 

LEADnrG  COMPETING  COUITTRIES. 

The  results  of  the  inquiry  conducted  by  the  board  in  regard  to  raw 
wool  are  presented  in  tnree  parts: 

First.  A  study  of  the  relative  conditions  surrounding  the  produc- 
tion of  the  various  leading  clips  falling  under  Classes  I  and  II  of  the 
tariff  act. 

Second.  An  investigation  as  to  the  relative  shrinkages  of  these 
wools  in  the  scouring  process. 

Tliird.  The  sources  and  uses  of  the  wools  imported  under  Class  III 
of  the  existing  law. 

The  United  States  has  been  producing  in  recent  years,  accordmg 
to  generally  accepted  estimates,  around  325,000,000  pounds  of  wool, 
consisting  mainly  of  the  ^e  and  medium  grades,  the  so-called 
*' carpet"  and  ''luster"  wools  comprising  but  a  comparatively  small 
percentage  of  the  total.     These  figures  are  believed  by  well-informed 

Eeople  in  the  wool  trade  to  be  somewhat  below  the  real  production; 
ut  nevertheless,  the  clip  lacks  something  Uke  35  per  cent  of  supplying 
the  normal  demands  of  all  our  mills.  We  do  not,  and  at  present  can 
not,  sell  either  wool  or  manufactures  thereof  in  foreign  markets 
to  any  extent.  Large  importations  of  wool,  including  various  special 
grades  not  grown  by  our  own  people,  are  required  to  keep  our  looms 
m  operation.  The  usual  requirements  of  our  manufacturers  extend 
to  a  total  of  near  500,000,000  pounds  of  wool  in  the  grease  per 
annum. 

The  leading  foreign  sources  of  supply  for  the  grades  recjuired  in 
cloth  making  are  the  great  pastoral  regions  of  Australasia,  South 
America,  and  the  South  African  Cape;  so  that  we  first  undertake  to 
compare  the  general  conditions  surrounding  production  in  the  United 
States  with  those  prevailing  in  the  Southern  Hemisphere ;  such  general 
survey  being  followed  by  a  detailed  analysis  of  comparative  operating 
expense,  at  home  and  abroad;  the  whole  supplemented  further  on  by 
certain  special  reports  giving  details  which  seemed  too  elaborate  for 
incorporation  in  the  main  body  of  this  report. 

GRADES   OF  DOMESTIC   WOOL. 

The  great  bulk  of  the  wool  grown  in  this  country  would,  if  imported, 
fall  under  Class  I.  There  are  large  numbers  of  the  English  mutton 
sheep  maintained  on  various  farms  and  ranches,  but,  except  where 
bred  in  their  purity  for  reproductive  purposes,  the  British  types 
covered  by  Class  II  of  the  wool  tariff  have  found  their  chief  commer- 
cial use  as  a  cross  upon  our  most  widely  disseminated  domestic 
breed,  the  merino,  the  mingling  of  these  bloods  producing  lambs 
that  are  in  demand  for  feeding  purposes,  and  at  the  same  time  a 
fleece  of  medium  wool  which  competes  with  crossbred  wools  grown,  as 
shown  by  this  report,  at  much  less  expense  in  South  Amenca,  Aus- 
tralia, and  elsewhere. 

299 


800        BEPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 

Before  passing  to  a  discussion  of  production  proper  it  may  be  of 
interest  to  present  a  few  facts  as  to  the  approximate  relative  per- 
centages of  merino  and  crossbred  wools  grown  at  home  and  in  the 
chief  competing  countries,  with  some  general  references  to  their 
respective  uses  and  to  the  actual  points  of  competition. 

It  is  estimated  that  about  two-tliirds  of  the  wool  grown  in  the 
United  States  west  of  the  Missouri  River  is  '  'fine ''  or  *  'fine  medium." 
The  wools  produced  east  of  the  Mississippi  will  probably  run  in  the 
aggregate  around  25  per  cent  to  30  per  cent  ''fine."  The  figures 
herewith  submitted  have  been  compiled  for  the  board  by  dealers 
specializing  in  home-gi*own  wools. 

Classifying  "fine  medium,"  wliich  is  a  grade  between  half-blood 
and  "fine,"  as  "fine,"  we  arrive  at  the  following  conclusions.  Divid- 
ing the  country  mto  two  sections,  in  the  territory  group,  or  Class  A. 
are  placed  all  the  States,  with  the  exception  of  Minnesota,  Iowa,  and 
Missouri,  lying  west  of  the  Mississippi  Kiver.  In  the  "fleece"  group, 
or  Class  B,  we  put  the  States  of  Minnesota,  Iowa,  and  Missouri  and 
all  the  States  lying  east  of  the  Mississippi  River. 

Fim  and  Jim  medium  wooh. 

Percent. 

Territory  or  Cla«  A 06 

Fleece  or  €ks8  B 23 

Entire  country 52 

Half-blood  vx>oh. 

Territory  or  Class  A 22 

Fleece  or  Class  B *  g 

Entire  country ;:;.-■;;:.';;;;;:;:::    i? 

Wools  grading  |  and  Mow. 

Territory  or  Class  A 12 

Fleece  or  Class  B 69 

Entire  country .'        3x 

LEABINO   FOREIGN   WOOLS. 

In  the  case  of  the  foreign  wools  entering  our  markets,  roughly 
speaking,  75  per  cent  of  the  wools  from  Australia  are  merinos  used 
largely  for  fine  dress  goods,  broadclotlis,  and  fine  worsteds.  Tasmania 
ana  Victoria  produce  the  finest  and  best  wools  exported  from  Aus- 
traha;  wools  known  for  their  fine  working  qualities,  style,  strength, 
and  light  condition.  The  Queensland,  Adelaide,  and  Sydney  wools 
are  not  so  well  giown  or  fine,  nor  as  liglit  in  condition  as  the  Vic- 
torian and  Tasmanian.  This  is  due  mostly  to  the  nature  of  the  land 
and  general  climatic  conditions.  The  remaining  25  per  cent  of  the 
Australian  clip  consists  of  fine  crossbreds  and  what  are  known  as 
"comebacks,"^ produced  by  a  mingling  of  merino  and  Lincoln  bloods. 
These  wools  are  liked  for  ladies'  fine  white  dress  goods. 

About  90  per  cent  of  the  wools  exported  from  New  Zealand  are 
crossbreds  and  10  per  cent  merinos.  Of  the  crossbred,  around  70  per 
cent  are  of  a  low  cnaracter,  40s  and  44s,  and  are  used  principally  for 
dress  goods  and  linings.  The  lower  qualities,  36s  and  32s,  or  pure 
Lincoln,  are  used  mostly  for  luster  dress  goods  and  are  at  times  mixed 
or  blended  with  mohair.  The  finer  grades,  46s/56s,  are  used  and 
blended  along  with  the  Australian  crossbreds  for  cream  and  white 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOAED  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


301 


I 


.,  • 


dress  goods.     The  merinos  are  blended  and   used   along  with   the 
Austr^ian. 

Argentine  wools  are  not  generally  considered  as  good  as  those  of 
New  Zealand  and  Australia.  They  lack  the  working  qualities, 
although  the  breed  has  been  considerably  improved  during  the  past 
10  years,  but  the  wool  has  not  yet  the  finish  of  Colonial  wools.  The 
native  Criolla,  or  South  American  wool,  was  or  is  of  a  wild  and  hairy 
character,  and  the  present  stock  has  been  produced  from  this  sheep 
by  continued  crossing  with  imported  rams,  principally  from  Eng- 
land, \yhich  has  had  the  effect  of  elevating  the  standard.  At  the 
same  time  the  trace  of  the  native  sheep  is  still  to  be  seen  with  the 
result  that  top-makers  report  that  the  wool  as  a  whole  does  not  ordi- 
narily work  nor  finish  so  well  as  the  Colonial  wools.  Argentine  wools 
are  to  a  certain  extent  mixed  judiciously  with  NewZeal  and  wools  and 
go  into  dress  goods  or  worsteds,  and  the  finer  crossbreds  possibly  go 
mto  knitting  wool  yarns.  A  good  proportion  of  the  medium  grades 
are  used  for  men's  suitings  and  overcoats.  The  proportion  of  grades 
shipped  from  Argentina  in  1909  was  20  per  cent  merinos,  10  per 
cent  fine  crossbreds  or  comebacks,  and  the  rest  medium  crossbreds  and 
Lincolns. 

Montevideo  wools  have  the  same  general  characteristics  as  the 
Argentine,  but  the  proportion  shipped  runs  about  80  per  cent  merino 
and  20  per  cent  fine  and  low  crossbreds. 

WHEEE    COMPETITION   CENTERS. 

In  the  domestic  clip  there  is  probably  around  eight  to  ten  million 
pounds  of  what  is  known  in  the  trade  as  "fine  Montana  staple"  that 
meets  the  competition  of  the  Australian  64s  to  66s.  Wyoming  grows 
perhaps  10,000,000  pounds  of  fine  staple  of  similar  quahty  to  the 
Montana,  perhaps  shrinking  somewhat  heavier.  There  is  a  fine 
Oregon  staple  produced  to  the  extent  of  around  8,000,000  pounds, 
and  some  5,000,000  pounds  of  fine  Idaho,  which  is  said  to  rank  with 
Australian  66s  to  70s,  Victorian  Geelong  and  best  Sydney  wools. 

The  Michigan  ^e  combing  is  said  to  meet  the  Sydney  and  Adelaide 
64s.  There  is  no  appreciable  quantity  of  wool  grown  m  this  counti-y 
that  equals  Australian  80s  and  finer. 

The  Delaine  wools  of  Ohio,  Pennsylvania,  ete.,  are  claimed  to 
be  the  strongest  wools  of  merino  blood  raised  in  the  world.  The 
special  competitors  of  our  Delaines  are  the  merino  combings  of 
Australia.  The  price  of  Delaines  in  this  market  is  governed  largely 
by  the  price  of  these  Austrahan  combings.  The  mills,  however,  use 
Delames  and  fine  Austrahan  together  if  making  a  blend.  The  Delaine 
gives  strength,  the  Australian  luster.  The  percentages  in  the  blend 
^^^7  ^^?^®what  according  to  which  class  works  out  the  cheaper  for  the 
mill.  The  most  direct  foreign  competitor  of  the  fine  clothing  Ohio  and 
similar  wools  may  be  said  at  present  to  be  the  merino  wools  of  Monte- 
video. These  wools  perhaps  approximate  the  staple,  grade,  and 
characteristics  of  the  fine  clothing  Ohios  closer  than  any  other 
fpreim  wool.  The  Australian  ''combings/'  and  sorts  designated  as 
clothings  while  not  coming,  perhaps,  in  such  direct  competition 
with  our  fine  unwashed  clothing  wools^  accordmg  to  trade  experts,  still 
have  a  material  bearing  on  the  relative  value  in  our  market  of  the 
nne  unwashed. 


302 


KEPOBT  OF  TAEIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


With  these  general  statements  in  mind  the  relative  costs  attending 
the  growing  of  these  various  wools  in  the  different  leading  producing 
countries  mil  be  taken  up  in  detaU. 

VABIOUS   PHASES  OF  THE  INDUSTRY  IN  THE   UNITED   STATES. 

The  sheep  industry  of  the  United  States  viewed  as  a  whole  is  of  two 
well-defined  types.  In  the  region  west  of  the  Missouri  River  most 
of  the  flockowners  devote  practically  all  their  time,  and  many  devote 
not  only  all  of  their  own,  but  borrowed  capital  as  well,  to  sheep 
raising. 

The  industry  in  that  section  is  usually  found  to  exist  on  land  which 
is  either  suitable  for  no  other  purpose  or  has  not  yet  been  brought 
under  cultivation.  Other  animals  are  raised  only  incidentally  and 
are,  as  a  rule,  used  in  connection  with  the  sheep;  and  such  crops  as 
are  grown  are  usually  fed  to  the  sheep.  Since  the  sheep  are  the  chief 
source  of  the  owners'  income,  the  flocks  are  usually  large. 

In  the  region  east  of  the  Missouri,  on  the  other  hand,  the  flock- 
owner  is,  as  a  rule,  a  general  farmer  who  carries  on  sheep  raising  on 
agricultural  land,  which  he  also  uses  for  crops,  under  a  system  of 
rotation.  Although  the  flock  in  this  case  is  more  or  less  intimatelv 
connected  with  the  other  farming  operations,  the  raising  of  other 
animals  and  the  growing  of  crops  are  independent  sources  of  income. 
In  this  region,  therefore,  the  flocks  are  usually  small. 

The  leading  sheep  States  west  of  the  Missouri  are  Texas,  Arizona, 
New  Mexico,  Colorado,  California,  Nevada,  Utah,  Wyominfir.  Mon- 
tana, Idaho,  Washington,  and  Oregon.  In  aU  these  StateTff  careful 
study  has  been  made  of  the  conditions  of  the  industry  and  schedules 
of  costs  have  been  secured  from  typical  flocks  representing  the  vari- 
ous conditions  under  which  sheep  are  run. 

East  of  the  Missouri,  although  sheep  raising  is  seldom  more  than  a 
secondary  industry,  there  is  a  certain  region,  comprising  Ohio,  south- 
em  Michigan,  western  Pennsylvania  and  western  West  Virginia  in 
which  it  plays  a  much  more  important  rdle  than  elsewhere.  Hence, 
although  the  general  conditions  of  the  industry  in  the  East  and  South 
and  in  the  States  of  the  Mississippi  Valley  have  been  studied,  the 
securmg  of  detailed  cost  data  has  been  confined  to  the  region  above 
mentioned,  which  is,  in  this  connection,  designated  as  the  Ohio  region. 

The  breeds  of  sheep  and  the  conditions  of  the  industry  in  other 
sheep-raising  States  east  of  the  Missouri  vaiy  considerably  !rom  those 
of  the  Ohio  region.  In  all  the  States  not  included  in  the  western  and 
the  Ohio  distncts,  the  board  finds  that  sheep  are  maintained  prima- 
rUy,  as  a  rule,  for  their  utiHty  as  consumers  of  forage  that  would  other- 
wise go  largely  to  waste;  for  their  fertilizing  value  on  the  fields  and 
pastures;  for  the  production  of  market  lambs,  and  only  incidentallv 
for  their  wool.  The  investigations  were  extended  far  enough  outside 
the  fine-wool-growing  section  proper  to  cover  a  sufl[icient  number  of 
cases  of  this  kind  to  enable  us  to  discuss  in  a  comparative  wav  the 
results  of  the  operations  of  those  who  are  running  sheep  as  a  ^'gen- 
eral purpose"  rather  than  as  a  special  wool-growing  proposition. 

Inasmuch  as  the  bulk  of  our  domestic  production  is  grown  under 
ranch  conditions  fairly  comparable  with  those  obtaining  in  the  chief 
competing  countries,  we  reserve  discussion  of  eastern  conditions  for 
subsequent  treatment  in  connection  with  some  consideration  of  the 


MAP  SHOWING  DISTRICTS  IN  WESTERN  UNITED  STATES  VISITED  BY  AGENTS  OF  THE  TARIFF  BOARD. 


BEPOET  OF   TAEIFF  BOARD   ON    SCHEDULE   K. 


803 


I 


4., 


I 


industry  as  it  exists  in  the  settled  agricultural  districts  of  Great 
Britain,  France,  and  Germany. 

SHEEP   RANCHING   IN   THE   WESTERN   STATES. 

The  total  number  of  sheep  and  lambs  in  the  United  States  in  1910 
was,  in  round  numbers,  52,000,000  head.  The  investigation  by  the 
board  covered  12  Western  States:  Texas,  Arizona,  Colorado,  New 
Mexico,  California,  Idaho,  Wyoming,  Montana,  Nevada,  Utah,  Wash- 
ington, and  Oregon,  lying  in  what  is  generally  known  as  the  Rocky 
Mountain  region. 

The  accompanying  map  shows  the  leading  centers  visited  by  repre- 
sentatives of  the  Tariff  Board  to  secure  information  regarding  the 
sheep  and  goat  industries  in  the  12  States  named. 

Within  these  States  are  29,558,569  head  of  sheep  of  all  classes,  or 
considerably  more  than  one-half  of  the  total  number  in  the  United 
States.  The  rnajority  of  these  sheep  are  grazed  in  laree  flocks,  either 
upon  the  public  domain  or  privately  owned  lands,  \mere  in  general 
their  feed  consists,  especially  during  the  summer  months,  of  the 
native  grasses  and  forage  plants.  Throughout  this  region,  with  few 
exceptions,  sheep  are  handled  under  the  herding  system,  resulting 
in  a  nigh  labor  cost  per  sheep.  In  California  a  few  sheep  are  grazed 
within  fenced  inclosures  without  the  immediate  attention  of  the 
regular  herder.  While  the  average  wages  paid  are  lowest  in  the 
Southwest,  the  total  amount  paid  is  very  nearly  the  same  for  both 
sections.  This  is  due  to  the  rai^e  conoitions,  which  require  more 
men  per  thousand  sheep  in  the  Southwest  than  in  the  Northwest. 
In  both  sections  the  losses  from  wild  animals,  poisonous  plants, 
storms,  and  other  causes  add  materiall;y^  to  the  cost  of  production. 

In  the  Northwest  the  investment  in  lands,  improvements,  and 
equipment  is  much  higher  than  in  the  Southwest.  This  is  also  true 
of  the  comparative  prices  paid  for  rental  of  grazing  lands  in  each 
section. 

In  handling  the  sheep  upon  these  ranges,  the  majority  of  flocks  are 
driven  in  the  early  summer  months  to  the  mountain  ranges,  where 
they  are  grazed  until  the  approach  of  winter  forces  them  into  the 
lower  country.  In  the  fall  as  they  come  from  the  mountain  ranges, 
ttie  lambs  mtended  for  market  are  taken  from  the  flocks  and  sold. 
The  remaining  sheep  are  then  grazed  during  the  winter  months  upon 
the  open  desert  ranges,  the  majority  of  them  without  receiving  any 
artificial  feed. 

Taking  the  western  or  Kocky  Mountain  region  as  a  whole,  the  mini- 
mum cost  of  production  by  States  for  the  flocks  under  consideration 
appears  to  be  m  New  Mexico,  the  maximum  in  Idaho. 

Comparing  the  two  sections  from  a  climatic  point  of  view,  the  sheep 
raiser  m  the  Northwest  has  to  meet  long,  severe  winters  with  heavy 
snows,  while  m  the  Southwest  he  often  experiences  periods  of  drought, 
when  for  want  of  precipitation  the  sheep  suffer  both  for  grass  and 
Mraier. 

In  the  Northwest  few  owners  dare  enter  the  winter  without  having 
sutiicient  hay  to  feed  their  flocks  during  periods  of  storm  and  snows. 
In  the  Southwest  very  Httle  winter  feeding  is  done. 

At  the  present  time  practically  every  acre  of  grazing  land  in  the 
West  IS  m  use  and  somewhat  overstocked,  resulting  m  occasional 
neavy  losses. 


804 


BEPOBT  OF   TAKIFF  BOABB  ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


The  majority  of  these  lands  are  more  adapted  to  the  grazing  of 
sheep  than  any  other  domestic  animals,  and  if  the  lands  are  not  oc- 
cupied by  the  sheep  the  areas  will  probably  remain  nonproductive 
siTid  idle 

The  accompanying  diagram  and  Table  A  show  the  relative  stand- 
ing of  leading  States,  arranged  with  reference  to  the  numbers  of  their 
sheep  in  the  20  years  between  1890  and  1910.  Of  especial  mterest  is 
the  rapid  rise  shown  by  several  Western  States. 


STATE3.  1890. 


1900. 


19ia    STATES. 


1  Texm*  .    . 

2  Callfornfa. . 

3  Ohkh     .    . 

4  New  Mexico, 

5  Oregon.     . 

6  Michigan,  . 

7  Utah,     .    . 

8  Montana,  . 

9  Colorado, . 
fO    NewYorIc, 

11  Indiana,     . 

12  Missouri,  . 

13  Wyoming.  . 

14  Pennsylvania 

15  Wisconsin. 

16  Kentucky . 

17  Nevada,    . 

18  Arizona,     . 

19  Illinois,  .   . 

20  Washington, 

21  Maine,  (a). 

22  Tennessee,  (b) 

23  West  Virginia, 

24  Idalio,  ..    .    • 

25  Iowa,     .    .    • 

26  Virginia,     .    . 

27  Kansas,  (a)    . 


Wyoming, .    .     1 
Montana,  .    .     2 
Ohio,     ...     3 
New  Mexico,      4 
Idaho.   .    •    .     5 
Oregon,     .    %    6 
Michigan.  •    •     7 
California*     .    8 
Utah.     ...    9 
Missouri,  .    .10 
Texas,      .    .11 
Colorado,      •    12* 
Kentucky,      .   13 
Indiana,     •    .14 
Iowa,    .    .    •    18 
Nevada,    *    .16 
Arizona,     .    .    17 
Illinois,      .    .    18 
Wisconsin,    .    1 9 
New  York,     .    20 
West  Virginia,    21 
Pennsylvania,    22 
Virginia,     .    .    23 
Tennessee,  (b)  24 
Minnesota,     .    25 
South  Dakota,   26 
Washington,      27 


(a)  Among  the  first  27  States  in  1890  only, 

(b)  Amoug  the  first  27  Stales  In  1890  and  1910  but  not  In  1900, 

(c)  Among  the  first  27  only  In  190Qt 


BEPORT   OF  TAEIFF   BOAED   ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


305 


Table  A. — First  27  States  in  number  of  sheep  and  lambs  in  the  United  States  for  yean 

1890,  1900,  and  1910. 


De- 
scend- 
ing 
order. 


1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

7 

8 

9 

10 

11 

12 

13 

14 

15 

16, 

17 

18, 

19. 

20. 

21. 

22. 

23. 

24. 

25. 

26. 

27. 


State. 


1890 


Texas 

California 

Ohio 

New  Mexico . . 

Oregon 

Michigan 

Utah 

Montana 

Colorado 

New  York 

Indiana 

Missouri 

Wyoming 

Pennsylvania . 

Wisconsin 

Kentucky 

Nevada 

Arizona 

Illinois 

Washington. . . 

Maine 

Tennessee 

West  Virginia. 

Idaho 

Iowa 

Virginia 

Kansas 


4,752,640 

4,035,120 

3,943,589 

3,092,736 

2,929,830 

2,240,841 

2,055,900 

1,989,845 

1,783,891 

1,548,420 

1,278,000 

1,198,200 

1,017,373 

945,002 

809,009 

805,978 

700,986 

698,404 

688,587 

673,060 

542,248 

511,118 

508,6.54 

487,357 

475,816 

444,563 

438,313 


State. 


New  Mexico . 

Montana 

Wyoming 

Ohio 

Idaho 

Oregon 

Texas 

Utah 

Colorado 

California 

Michigan 

Arizona 

New  York... 
Pennsylvania 
Washington.. 

Wisconsin 

Indiana 

Nevada 

Illinois 

Iowa 

Missouri , 

Kentucky 

West  Virginia 

Minnesota 

South  Dakota 

Virginia 

North  Dakota 


1900 


3, 

3, 

2, 

2, 

2, 

2, 

2, 
o 

"t 

2, 
2, 

h 
1, 


973,439 
884, 179 
840,190 
839,690 
658,662 
446,695 
416,721 
370,983 
185,327 
001,501 
389,073 
024,430 
846,165 
814,322 
790,217 
744,656 
677,905 
657,773 
637,719 
619,476 
597,619 
549,832 
426,814 
419,218 
381,882 
376,918 
374, 110 


State. 


Wyoming 

Montana 

Ohio 

New  Mexico . . 

Idaho 

Oregon 

Michigan 

California 

Utah 

Missouri 

Texas 

Colorado 

Kentucky 

Indiana 

Iowa 

Nevada 

Arizona 

Illinois 

Wisconsin 

New  York . . . 
West  Virginia 
Pennsylvania , 

Virginia 

Tennessee 

Minnesota 

South  Dakota, 
Washington.., 


1910 


5,394,959 

5,372,639 

3,907,055 

3,264,012 

2,950,534 

2,696,779 

2,306,476 

2,334,125 

1,826,473 

1,808,078 

1,758,084 

1,424,187 

1,361,000 

1,336,%7 

1,144,583 

1,103,889 

1,061,363 

1,059,072 

929,783 

929,547 

906,093 

882,852 

803,552 

793,963 

637,033 

610,728 

471,521 


AUSTRALIA. 


The  total  number  of  sheep  in  Australia,  including  Tasmania,  was 
estimated  for  1910  at  approximately  100,000,000.  Of  this  number 
approximately  one-half  are  in  the  State  of  New  South  Wales. 

In  Australia  sheep  are  handled  in  large  flocks  under  the  paddock 
or  fencing  system,  which  reduces  the  labor  costs  to  a  minimum.  From 
the  woolgrower's  point  of  view  Australian  land  laws  are  almost 
perfect.  Xarge  areas  of  grazing  land  maj^  be  leased  at  very  low 
prices  with  long  periods  of  occupancy,  thus  insuring  permanence  and 
stability  to  the  business. 

The  cUmatic,  forage,  and  other  conditions  surrounding  the  raising 
of  sheep  in  Australia  are  excellent,  the  carrying  capacity  of  the 
ranges  nigh,  and  while  there  are  no  long,  cold  winters,  periodical 
droughts  occasionally  cause  heavy  losses.  These  losses,  however, 
will  probably  never  again  be  so  severe  as  in  the  past,  because  of 
improved  railroad  facilities.  The  Australian  wool  is  clean,  of  a  low 
shrinkage,  and  particular  attention  is  given  to  the  demands  of  the 
trade  regarding  classification,  handling,  and  shipment  of  the  fleeces. 

The  Australian  sheep  are  a  type  peculiar  to  the  country,  com- 
bining in  one  animal  many  of  the  oest  characteristics  of  the  mutton 
and  merino  types  of  sheep. 

Of  the  total  number  of  sheep  in  Australia  probably  80  per  cent 
are  merinos,  and  of  the  wool  shipped  out  of  that  country  75  per 
cent  is  classed  as  merino.  The  majority  of  the  merino  sheep  are 
grazed  in  the  drier,  more  arid  regions,  w^here  that  type  naturally 
thrives  best   and  conditions  compare  somewhat  with  the  ranges 

32080°— H.  Doc.  342,  62-2,  vol  1 ^20 


806        BEPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOABD  OH  SCHEDTILE  K. 

in  western  America.  The  mutton  breeds  in  Australia  are  found  in 
ISe  morrferWe  portions  along  the  coast  where  convenient  access  is 
hl^Tthe  large^freezing  wor\s,  and  the  growers  find  an  excellent 

'°Law''wSrp2dXost  as  much  as  in  the  United  States,  does 
not  cS'so  mucrin  the  aggregate  l^^cause  of  the  paddock  ystem, 
Xch  enables  one  man  to  care  for  very  large  numbers  of  sheep. 

KEW  ZEALAND. 

Thft  total  number  of  sheep  in  New  Zealand  in  1910  was  approxi- 

*  f„  ol  fl^  o^n  hpad     The  dominion  consists  in  the  mam  of  two 

W  \SoT'£ds    affordi^  the  sheep  raiser  excellent  shipping 

Sitier^no  flock  can  be  more  than  a  reasonable  distance  from 

'"O^inl'to  dZ?" 'Smother  conditions,  fully  90  per  cent  of 
IhS  Z^alS  sheen  are  of  the  -"on  b^ds   *h-  ^  wiS 

^i^Jo^JSYu^rrofgr-adfKoi  as^wV^a  ftdTeX-nt  S 
the  lambs  into  good  mutton.  A„atrRlia  and  in 

Sheep  are  handled  ge«e''^"yj\P'^'*°i*^  ™  ^"f*to  whkh  t^ 
South  Island  there  are  several  high  mountwn  ranges  into  ^mcn^  me 

sheep  are  driven  in  the  sprmg,  leaving  before  the  umter  snows  come, 
exactly  as  in  the  western  Umtecl  btates.  ™.„^;r,ff  i<.  at 

^TraLcaUy  .aU  land  in  New  ^^X^^^tlcfS  ^  n1 

P  The  s/stem  of  Teasing   ^^^^^  »  «mi^'f  >,*J^^^^^ 
fdVhX't^rte  laliTaSst  an/ o^r  gLtlheep-raising 

TLS  are'  aZuJ  the  same  as  in  Australia,  but  the  number  of  men 
empgedil  somewhat  higher  than  there,  resulting  m  a  higher  average 
labor  cost. 

SOUTU    AFRICA. 

T     iQin  c;nnth  Africa  had  approximately  30,000,000  sheep,  of 

w\  lO^cS  w^i^  Cape  Province,  the  most  southerly  part  of 

StJtWSrfon"  tL  rest  are  found  in  the  Provmces  1,-mg 

"^3  theSd  r^-for  sheep  grazing  seem^^ow  to  be  in  usj 

^SaSSditions  -  S„Wy  fod,  ^^  ^emg  no  severe^^^^^^^ 
but  occasional  droughts  biMg^heavy  '"s^-  ^^^J^j  .^^ 

'"'^ir.T^a^^r.nfl^^^^^^  buU^bS^riTw'iiough'nV  of  a 
Sheep  are  generally  ^^^J"*'"'  V  .,     ,  •  j^    ^^^  of  matenal  and 

high  de-ree  ^1  i^telli^^^ce     O^^^  e  ^^^^^^ 

the  treeless  nature  of  the  countpr,  renciug  mio,  ^i*         r 
not  been  very  generally  fioptecl.  ^    ^  .        ^^^^ 

Under  present  methods  of  handling  slieep  ."^ J^r"  ' 

invesimen^t  f or  improvements  and  equipment  is  not  large. 


BEPOET  OF  TAEIFF  BOAED  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


307 


Most  of  the  sheep  are  of  merino  blood,  although  the  raising  of  the 
woolless  type  for  mutton  purposes  has  been  very  profitable  and  the 
local  markets  are  not  usually  overstocked  because  of  the  diffi- 
culties of  raising  other  meat-producing  animals  in  South  Africa. 

SOUTH   AMEBIC  A. 

According  to  the  latest  reliable  authority  there  are  approximately 
67,000,000  sheep  in  the  Republic  of  Argentina.  In  Uruguay  there 
are  over  26,000,000,  and  for  the  entire  continent  approximately 
100,000,000  head. 

The  extreme  southern  point  of  the  continent,  the  Island  of  Tien*a 
del  Fue^o,  belongs  in  J3art  to  Chile  and  in  part  to  Argentina.  On  this 
small  island  there  are  1,341,000  head  of  sheep  on  the  Argentina 
portion  alone,  which  proves  the  wonderful  carrying  capacity  of  its 
ranges. 

Tnis  land  is  regarded  by  expert  judges  as  one  of  the  best  sheep- 
raising  regions  in  the  world,  and  it  is  to-day  fully  stocked.  Its  ranges 
are  covered  mth  a  heavy  grass  sod  of  great  feeding  value,  carrying 
a  sheep  to  approximately  IJ  acres,  sometimes  in  large  areas,  a  sheep 
to  each  acre.  The  climate  is  cool  with  plenty  of  rain;  there  is  no 
disease,  and  losses  from  all  causes  are  very  low. 

North  of  Tierra  del  Fuego  is  the  Argentine  Territory  of  Santa 
Cruz,  a  vast  region  with  varied  ranges  of  a  fair  carrying  capacity,  now 
stocked  with  about  2,000,000  sheep  and  estimated  to  be  able  to  carry 
that  many  more  without  overcrowding  the  ranges. 

North  of  Santa  Cruz  is  the  Territory  of  Chubut,  a  great,  semi- 
desert  region  with  ranges  of  moderate  capacity,  now  about  one-half 
stocked  with  over  2,000,000  sheep. 

Still  farther  north  is  the  Territory  of  Rio  Negro,  with  a  range  and 
climate  similar  in  most  respects  to  Chubut,  but  rather  more  subject 
to  droughts.  Rio  Negro  has  about  5,000,000  head  of  sheep,  and  the 
range  is  capable  of  carrying  several  times  as  many. 

The  Province  of  Buenos  Aires  has  approximately  35,000,000 
sheep,  or  over  one-half  of  the  total  number  in  the  Republic.  The 
ranges  are  fully  stocked  and  the  number  of  sheep  is  decreasing, 
owing  to  the  inroads  on  the  ranges  by  wheat  farmers. 

The  soil  is  rich  and  the  carrying  capacity  of  the  range  extremely 
high.  The  demand  for  the  lands  will  doubtless  decrease  the  number 
of  sheep  from  now  on. 

North  of  Buenos  Aires  are  several  other  provinces  of  Argentina  with 
large  numbers  of  sheep,  Entre  Rios  with  7,000,000  head  being  the 
most  important.  The  climate  of  these  provinces  is  very  good.  The 
ranges  are  excellent,  with  a  high  carrymg  capacity. 

Tlirough  all  Argentina  surface  water  is  scarce  and  the  flocks  must  be 
supj>lied  m  many  places  from  wells. 

The  cost  of  sheep  raising  in  Ai^entina  is  low,  the  paddock  system 
of  Australia  being  generally  practiced,  although  there  are  some  ex- 
tensive ranges  whicb  are  not  under  fences.  There  are  few,  if  any, 
wild  animals  and  little  loss  from  disease  or  poisonous  plants.  In 
some  of  the  northern  Provinces  internal  parasites  cause  losses  during 
wet  seasons. 

Uruguay  has  a  much  warmer  cUmate,  ^dth  periods  of  drought. 
While  differing  somewhat  in  many  characteristics  from  Argentina, 


808 


BEPOET  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


in  a  general  way  conditions  under  which  sheep  are  handled  are  much 
the  same. 

The  whole  of  Uruguay  is  covered  with  a  heavy  sod  of  native 
grasses  of  varying  values,  the  pastures  have  a  very  high  carrying 
capacity,  and  the  majority  of  the  sheep  find  their  entu*e  sustenance  in 
tlie  native  grasses  on  the  ranges. 

Wool  was  originally  the  sole  product  of  South  American  sheep, 
but  with  the  coming  of  freezing  works  the  mutton  breeds  have 
rapidly  taken  place  of  the  merinos  wherever  the  pastures  lie  close 
enougn  to  either  railroad  or  water  transportation. 

CAPITALIZATION,  EQUIPMENT,  EXPENSES,  AND  RECEIPTS  OF  THE  SHEEP 
BUSINESS   IN   THE   WESTERN   UNITED   STATES. 

The  board  has  conducted  a  detailed  investigation  of  the  financial 
aspects  of  the  wool-growing  industry  as  it  now  exists  in  the  western 
United  States,  in  the  prosecution  oi  which  every  effort  was  made  to 
obtain  figures  that  were  both  accurate  and  reliable.  In  a  majority 
of  cases  growers  had  not  kept  their  accounts  in  such  shape  as  ti  ren- 
der the  desired  information  readily  obtainable.  However,  the 
familiarity  of  the  agents  of  the  board  with  the  industry  was  such  that, " 
with  the  hearty  cooperation  of  the  growers  themselves,  results  were 
obtained  that  fairly  reflect  the  general  conditions  prevailing  in  that 
region. 

The  study  was  commenced  in  Texas  in  February,  1911,  and  during 
the  ensuing  six  months  the  operations  of  some  500  different  concerns, 
representing  almost  every  phase  of  the  business  in  the  various  West- 
em  States,  were  placed  under  personal  examination.  Not^vdthstand-* 
ing  the  fact  that  every  effort  was  made  to  perfect  a  schedule  of 
receipts  and  expenditures  in  the  case  of  all  operations  studied,  it 
was  found  impossible  in  some  instances  to  secure  data  sufficiently 
exact  to  meet  the  necessary  requirements  of  the  investigation;  and 
whenever  this  condition  developed,  such  incomplete  or  unperfect 
schedules  were  omitted  from  the  final  calculations.  Abnormal  situa- 
tions and  conditions  of  every  nature  were  eliminated  so  far  as 
possible.  The  results  presented  below,  therefore,  in  tabular  form 
rest  upon  such  a  large  amount  of  carefully  scanned  data  that  it  is 
believed  that  the  figures  are  exact  beyond  any  others  previously 
obtained  from  an  industry  of  this  character.  From  its  very  nature 
the  inquiry  was  a  difficult  one.  There  seemed  to  bo  no  uniformity  in 
the  accounting  methods  of  those  whose  operations  were  under  inquiiy , 
so  that  the  board  was  compelled  to  formulate  a  general  scheme  of 
tabulation,  which  should  insure  results  at  once  comparable  and 
reliable.  In  order  that  the  figures  presented  may  be  fully  under- 
stood, the  tables  are  prefaced  with  the  subjoined  detailed  state- 
ment as  to  the  method  of  computation  employed. 

The  capital  invested  in  the  flock  industry  is  embodied  in  land 
owned  and  its  improvements,  equipment,  and  stock  on  hand  at  the 
beginning  of  the  fiscal  year  under  review.  When,  as  is  often  the 
case,  flock  husbandry  is  tne  sole  business  of  the  Western  producer,  the 
entire  investment  and  operating  expenses  are  chargeable  to  the 
sheep ;  when  this  is  not  the  case  the  investment  and  operating  expenses 
occasioned  by  the  raising  of  other  animals  or  the  production  or  crops 
not  fed  to  sheep  are  eliminated. 


REPORT  or  TARIFF  BOARD   ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


309 


THE  PROBLEM  OF  LAND  VALUES. 

The  land  owned  by  the  flock  owner  plays  decidedly  different  rdles 
in  different  parts  of  the  region  under  consideration.  In  some  parts 
the  sheep  owners  possess  but  little  land,  often  only  enough  to  give 
them  control  of  water  rights,  etc.,  while  in  other  parts  the  land 
owned  by  them  represents  a  large  investment  and  occasions  a  heavy 
charge  against  the  sheep.  But  all  the  flock  owners  depend,  to  a 
greater  or  less  extent,  on  land  which  they  do  not  own.  Such  land  is 
either  free  grazing  land  belonging  to  the  National  Government, 
national  forest  land  on  which  grazing  is  permitted  on  the  payment 
of  a  fee,  or  land  leased  for  a  definite  sum,  either  from  the  Government 
through  the  Reclamation  Service  or  the  Indian  Bureau,  from  the 
State,  from  private  corporations  such  as  railroads,  or  from  individuals. 
The  payments  for  the  use  of  such  land  are  a  matter  of  record  and 
occasion  few  difficulties. 

The  land  owned  consists  of  grazing  land  and  land  on  which  crops 
are  grown  for  sheep  forage.  For  land,  on  which  such  crops  are  grown 
a  rental  value,  fixed  according  to  the  nature  of  the  crop,  is  allowed. 

For  land  used  for  gazing  the  rental  value  charged  is  fixed  accord- 
ing to  the  actual  grazing  value.  Much  of  this  land  was  bought  years 
ago,  and  in  many  cases  has  greatly  increased  in  value.  This  is  true 
or  the  land  fit  only  for  grazing,  but  more  especially  of  land  which, 
while  still  used  for  grazing,  is  regarded  as  suitable  for  agricultural 
purposes.  It  therefore  happens  that  many  flock  owners  possess  large 
tracts  of  land  which  they  use  for  grazing  but  on  which  they  place  a 
high  value,  owing  to  the  growing  demand  for  such  land  for  agricul- 
tural or  other  purposes.  It  is  evident  that  the  burden  of  such  land 
values  should  not  be  borne  by  the  sheep,  and  that  the  charge  against 
them  for  such  land  should  be  based  upon  its  grazing  value.  This 
grazing  value  has  been  determined  on  the  basis  of  prices  actually 
paid  for  the  use  of  similar  land  leased  or  rented  in  the  same  region. 

An  example  will  make  this  point  clearer.  Suppose  that  in  1900 
10,000  acres  of  land  were  bought  for  grazing  purposes  at  $2  an  acre, 
exclusive  of  improvements,  or  $20,000  for  tne  tract,  and  that  the 
grazing  value  or  this  land  was  then  10  cents  an  acre;  that  in  1910 
this  land  is  valued  by  the  flock  owner  at  $10  an  acre,  or  $100,000  for 
the  tract;  and,  owing  to  the  increased  demand  for  grazing  land, 
would,  if  leased,  bring  20  cents  an  acre.  It  is  seen  that  wmle  the 
grazing  value  of  the  land  has  doubled,  its  valuation  by  the  owner  has 
mcreased  five  times.  If  the  charge  for  the  use  of  this  land  is  to  be 
based  on  the  current  valuation,  it  is  evident  that  the  sheep  should  be 
credited  with  the  $80,000  increased  valuation,  less  any  expense  which 
the  owner  may  have  incurred  for  improvements,  etc.  But  such  a 
procedure  is  not  admissible,  because  tne  gains  or  losses  arising  from 
the  ownership  of  land  have  no  bearing  on  the  cost  of  wool  produc- 
tion; and  even  if  they  had,  such  gains  or  losses  would  often,  on 
account  of  their  magnitude,  overshadow  those  arising  from  the  sheep 
operations.  Hence  the  charge  against  the  sheep  for  this  owned  land 
is  20  cents  an  acre,  the  amount  which  it  would  bring  if  leased  for 
grazing  purposes  to  another  flock  owner. 


810 


BEPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K, 


IMPEOVEMBNTS  AND  EQUIPMENT. 

The  value  of  improvements  has  been  ascertained  apart  from  that 
of  the  land  and  a  10  per  cent  depreciation  has  been  allowed.  Account 
has  been  taken  of  the  nature  of  the  improvement  and  the  date  of  its 
construction,  and  when  there  has  been  no  depreciation  or  the  depre- 
ciation has  already  been  written  off  no  depreciation  has  been  allowed. 

Many  articles  of  equipment  depreciate  rapidlv  on  account  of  their 
nature  or  of  carelessness  in  their  use,  while  others  depreciate  much 
more  slowly.  There  is  a  part  of  the  equipment  on  which  the  average 
rate  of  depreciation  is  much  more  rapid  than  on  improvements, 
while  on  the  remaining  part  the  depreciation  is  slight,  but  an  average 
depreciation  of  10  per  cent  on  the  entire  equipment  has  been  allowed. 

No  additional  allowance  has  been  made  for  maintenance  and  re- 
pairs, as  these  are  covered  by  the  depreciation. 

INVENTORIES   AND   DEPRECIATION. 

The  value  of  the  stock  on  hand  at  the  beginning  of  the  fiscal  year, 
as  reoorted  by  the  owner,  has  been  accepted. 

A  flock  of  sheep  may  be  made  up  of  ewes,  lambs,  wethers,  and  rams. 
A  ewe  produces  lier  first  lamb  when  2  years  old  and  her  period  of 
service  varies  from  four  to  six  years,  depending  largely  upon  the 
nature  of  the  grazing.  It  has  teen  assumed  that,  on  an  average, 
after  producing  five  lambs  a  ewe  will  be  replaced^nd  that  she  is  then 
worth  about  one-half  as  much  as  at  two  years.  Tlierefore  a  deprecia- 
tion of  10  per  cent  has  been  aUowed  on  breeding  ewes.  For  example, 
if  at  the  age  of  2  years  a  ewe  is  worth  $4,  and  if  the  average  rate  of  ner 
depreciation  during  her  five  years  of  service  is  10  per  cent,  her  total 
depreciation  is  $2,  which,  together  with  the  $2  for  which  she  may  be 
sold  at  the  end  of  this  period,  wiD  suffice  to  replace  her. 

For  rams  also  the  period  of  service  is  from  four  to  six  years,  but 
the  average  period  of  service  is  shorter  than  in  the  case  of  ewes,  and 
at  its  close  the  rams  are  of  little  value.  For  breeding  rams  therefore 
m  25  per  cent  depreciation  has  been  allowed. 

The  rate  of  depreciation  on  wethers  is  radically  aflfected  by  the 
conditions  under  wliich  they  are  run,  but  if  not  retained  too  long 
there  is  only  slight  depreciation.  In  case  there  is  depreciation,  its 
rate  is  determined  for  each  flock  separately. 

LOSSES. 

Annual  losses  are  of  two  well-defined  classes.  The  first  class 
comprises  those  which  necessarily  result  from  the  nature  of  the  indus- 
try and  occur  regularly  from  year  to  year  and  which  can  therefore  be 
closely  estimated.  When  the  sheep  are  turned  out  to  graze  in  the 
spring,  the  owners  know  that  thev  will  lose  a  certain  number  as  a 
result  of  death  from  disease  or  the  eating  of  poisonous  plants,  of 
attacks  by  predatoiy  animals,  etc.  The  amount  of  such  losses  is  a 
part  of  the  regular  expense  of  running  sheep  and  is  therefore  a  legit- 
imate item  of  cost.  After  careful  consideration  of  the  losses  reported 
on  the  schedules,  and  in  view  of  the  fact  that  the  amount  allowed  for 
depreciation  was  considered  to  cover  some  losses,  the  amount  has 
been  taken  as  3  per  cent  of  the  value  of  the  flock  at  the  beginning  of 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD   ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


311 


the  year  under  consideration.  This  is  not  supposed  to  cover  losses 
of  unweaned  lambs;  for  since  the  rate  of  mortality  before  weaning  is 
very  uncertain,  only  weaned  lambs  are  r^arded  as  raised  and  included 
in  the  annual  increase. 

In  addition  to  these  annually  reciurent  and  calculable  losses  the 
sheep  industry  in  the  West  is  subject  to  occasional  losses  which  can  not 
be  anticipated,  averted,  or  calculated.  A  favorable  summer  may  be 
followed  bv  a  winter  so  severe  as  to  threaten  the  very  existence  of 
the  flock;  large  numbers  of  sheep  may  die  and  the  rest  be  left  in  so 
emaciated  a  condition  as  to  preclude  the  possibility  of  a  normal  wool 
clip  or  increase.  On  the  other  hand,  a  favorable  winter  may  be  suc- 
ceeded by  a  summer  of  severe  drought,  bringing  disaster  in  its  wake; 
a  chilling  rain  after  shearing  may  bring  death  to  hundreds  of  the 
flock;  a  thousand  sheep  may  die  in  a  single  night  from  eating  poison- 
ous plants.  As  a  result  of  such  losses  the  rate  of  income  varies  greatly 
frona  year  to  year,  and  in  an  attempt  to  determine  the  average  profit  of 
the  industry  these  losses  must  be  taken  into  account.  But  owing  to 
their  adventitious  nature,  they  can,  obviously,  not  be  included  in  an 
estimate  of  normal  annual  costs. 


EXPENSE   OF  OPERATION. 

Operating  costs  are  divided  in  the  schedule  into  Miscellaneous 
Costs  and  Costs  of  Labor,  Forage,  Shearing,  and  Selling,  respec- 
tively. But  in  the  tables  Shearing  and  Selling  Costs  are  included 
under  Miscellaneous  Costs. 

The  items  under  Miscellaneous  Costs  need  little  explanation.  In 
cases  where  the  industry  is  carried  on  under  a  salaried  manager 
employed  by  either  a  company  or  an  individual  a  charge  for  admin- 
istration is  allowed.  When  the  owner  devotes  himself  to  the  care  of 
his  flock  he  is  allowed  compensation  usually  as  an  item  of  labor 
costs,  according  to  the  time  which  he  gives  and  the  nature  of  his 
services.  The  amount  allowed  is  that  which  he  would  otherwise 
have  had  to  pav  for  the  performance  of  these  services.  If  this  allow- 
ance had  not  been  made  the  comparability  of  the  schedules  would 
have  been  seriously  affected. 

RECEIPTS. 

The  receipts  consist  of  "receipts  from  wool"  and  ''receipts  from 
other  sources."  The  receipts  from  other  sources  comprise  the  net 
receipts  from  sales  of  sheep  which  were  on  hand  at  the  beginning  of 
the  tiscal  year  under  review,  the  value  of  the  lambs  raised  during 
this  year,  whether  sold  or  retained  in  the  flock,  and  certain  mis- 
cellaneous receipts.  Since,  in  general,  receipts  from  other  sources 
consist  mainly  of  receipts  from  mutton,  the  latter  term  is,  for 
convenience,  used  mstead  of  the  former  in  the  following  discussion: 

THE  COST   OF  A   POUND  OF  WOOL. 

In  the  attempt  to  determine  the  expense  charge  against  a  pound  of 
wool  two  methods  have  hitherto  been  used.  One  method  is  based  on 
an  apportionment  of  the  total  costs  between  the  wool  and  the  mutton 
on  the  basis  of  the  receipts  from  each   respectively.     Suppose,  for 


812 


BEPOBT  OP  TAKIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


BEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K, 


313 


example,  tliat  the  receipts  from  a  flock  consist  of  500  pounds  of  wool 
worth  20  cents  a  pound,  or  $100,  and  8,000  pounds  of  mutton,  worth 
5  cents  a  pound,  or  $400,  so  that  the  total  receipts  are  $500,  and  that 
the  total  costs  are  $400 ;  then,  by  this  method,  the  receipts  from  wool 
are  one-fifth  of  the  total  receipts  and  those  from  mutton  four-fifths 
of  the  total  receipts ;  the  costs  chargeable  to  wool  are  one-fifth  of  $400, 
or  $80,  and  those  chargeable  to  mutton  are  $320.  Hence  the  cost  of 
producing  1  pound  of  wool  is  $80  divided  by  500,  the  number  of  pounds 
of  wool,  or  16  cents.  A  moment*s  thought  wiU  show  that  this  method 
is  incorrect,  since  costs  do  not,  as  here  assumed,  bear  a  defimte  relaUon 
to  receipts.  Any  change  in  the  relation  between  the  receipts  from 
wool  and  the  receipts  from  mutton  would  change  their  respective 
costs  of  production.  If,  for  example,  the  receipts  from  wool  should 
remain  $100,  and  the  receipts  from  mutton  should,  owing  to  a  fall  m 
price,  drop  to  $300,  the  costs  chargeable  to  wool  would  now  be  one- 
fourth  of  $400,  or  $100,  and  the  cost  of  producing  a  pound  of  wool 
would  be  20  cents.  Thus  it  is  manifestly  impossible  to  determine  the 
cost  of  a  pound  of  wool  by  apportioning  the  costs  on  the  basis  of 

receipts. 

Another  method  is  to  consider  wool  the  chief  product  and  mutton 
the  by-product  and  to  charge  the  total  operating  costs  to  the  mutton 
and  credit  the  net  income  of  the  business  to  the  wool.  Ihus  the 
excess,  if  any,  of  the  total  operating  expenses  over  the  receipts  from 
mutton  is  regarded  as  the  cost  of  producing  the  wool,  and  the  cost  of 
producing  a  pound  of  wool  is  found  by  dividing  this  amount  by 
the  total  wool  chp.  When,  however,  the  receipts  from  mutton  equal 
the  operating  costs,  the  cost  of  producing  a  pound  of  wool  as 
found  by  tliis  method,  is  notliin^;  and  when  the  receipts  from  mutton 
exceed  the  operating  costs  it  is  less  than  nothing. 

For  example,  suppose  that  a  flock  produces  500  pounds  of  wool 
worth  20  cents  a  pound,  or  $100,  that  there  are  no  receipts  from 
mutton,  and  that  the  costs  are  $200.  The  cost  of  producing  a  pound 
of  wool  is  evidently  $200  divided  by  500,  or  40  cents.  But  suppose 
that  the  receipts  from  mutton  are  $20.  Then,  by  this  method,  the 
cost  of  producing  the  wool  is  $200,  minus  $20  or  $180,  and  the  cost 
of  producing  a  pound  of  wool  is  $180  divided  by  500,  or  36  cents. 
And  suppose,  to  cite  a  third  case,  that  the  receipts  from  mutton  are 
$200  or  [ust  equal  to  the  total  costs.  Then  the  cost  of  producmg  the 
wool  is  zero.  It  therefore  appears  that  while  the  total  costs  have 
remained  the  same,  the  cost  of  producing  a  pound  of  wool,  as  deter- 
mined by  this  method,  has  varied  from  40  cents  to  nothing. 

It  is  evident  that  this  method  also  is  inadmissible  because  the  cost 
of  producing  a  pound  of  wool,  thus  determined,  vanes^^th  the  relative 
importance  of  the  receipts  from  wool  and  mutton.  When  wool  is  the 
chief  source  of  income  and  the  receipts  from  mutton  are  merely  inci- 
dental and  relatively  small,  this  method  is  approximately  correct;  but 
as  the  receipts  from  mutton  become  relatively  more  important,  the  de- 
gree  of  error  increases,  and  when  mutton  is  the  chief  source  of  income 
and  the  receipts  from  wool  are  merely  incidental,  the  f utiUty  ot  the 

method  is  clearly  apparent.         ,         ,        ,  ,  ,  -  ^ 

The  conclusion  is  inevitable  that  when  the  woolgrower  s  recemts 
are  derived  partly  from  wool  and  partly  from  mutton,  it  is  impossible 
to  apportion  the  costs  between  the  two  products,  and  that  therefore 
we  can  not  obtain  a  result  which  can  accurately  be  termed  the  cost  ot 


} 


producing  a  pound  of  wool.  However,  this  need  occasion  no  concern, 
since  the  bearing  of  the  receipts  from  wool  on  the  returns  from  flock 
husbandry,  as  carried  on  in  the  region  under  consideration,  can  be 
ascertained  and  the  object  of  this  investigation  can  thus  be  accom- 
plished. 

To  this  end  we  have  considered  wool  as  the  chief  product  and  the 
receipts  from  mutton  are  offset  against  costs.  When  the  receipts 
from  mutton  are  less  than  the  total  flock  expense,  the  difference  is 
called  the  ^'net  charge  against  wool. "  When,  on  the  other  hand,  the 
receipts  from  mutton  are  greater  than  the  expense,  the  difference  is 
the  *  net  credit  to  wool."  And  this  net  charge  against  or  net  credit  to 
wool,  divided  by  the  number  of  pounds  of  wool,  is  the  *'net  charge 
against  or  net  credit  to  a  pound  of  wool." 

This  net  charge  against  or  net  credit  to  a  pound  of  wool,  taken  in  its 
relation  to  the  net  selling  price  of  a  pound  of  wool,  is,  normally,  an 
index  to  the  profit  or  loss  represented  by  the  entire  operation. 

The  western  flock  owner  regulates  his  type  of  sheep  with  a  view  to 
maintaining  such  a  balance  between  wool  and  mutton  as  will  give  the 
greatest  possible  return.  While  the  receipts  from  mutton  majr  equal 
or  exceed  the  receipts  from  wool,  he  does  not  lose  sight  of  the  impor- 
tance of  the  wool  or  permit  its  amount  and  value  to  be  seriously 
affected  by  the  emphasis  which  he  places  on  mutton.  Furthermore, 
the  capital  required  to  cany  on  the  Dusiness  is  about  the  same  if  such 
a  balance  is  maintained  as  if  the  business  were  carried  on  for  the  sake 
of  either  mutton  or  wool  alone.  That  is,  under  the  conditions  pre- 
vailing in  the  West,  the  size  and  value  of  the  wool  clip  are  independent 
of  the  receipts  from  mutton  and  of  the  amount  of  the  investment. 

For  example,  if  a  flock  of  merino  sheep  shears  on  an  average  7  pounds 
of  wool,  worth  $1.40,  with  no  receipts  from  mutton,  a  flock  of  cross- 
bred sheep  might,  under  the  same  conditions  and  with  the  same 
investment,  shear  about  the  same  amount  of  wool  of  approximately 
the  same  value  and  may  also  jdeld  $2  worth  of  mutton  per  head. 

Since  this  is  the  case,  the  net  charge  against  or  net  credit  to  a  pound 
of  wool,  taken  in  its  relation  to  the  selling  price  of  a  pound  of  wool,  is, 
normally,  an  index  of  the  success  or  failure  of  the  year's  operations. 

For  example,  when  the  receipts  from  other  sources  suffice  to  cover 
operating  costs,  the  value  of  the  wool  clip  constitutes  the  income  of 
the  business,  the  net  charge  against  the  wool  is  nothing  or  less  than 
nothing,  and  the  rate  of  mcome  on  the  investment  is  correspondingly 
high. 

INCOME   ON   INVESTMENT — INTEREST   NOT   INCLUDED. 

The  receipts  from  wool,  minus  the  net  charge  against  or  plus  the 
net  credit  to  a  pound  of  wool,  constitute  the  net  income  of  the  busi- 
ness; and  the  percentage  which  this  sum  bears  to  the  capital  invested 
is  the  rate  of  mcome  on  the  investment. 

The  investment  consists  of  land  owned,  improvements,  equipment, 
and  the  flock;  but,  since  the  investment  in  the  land  has  already 
been  charged  against  the  industry  in  the  form  of  graziag  value  or 
rent,  this  item  has  been  left  out  of  account  in  computing  the  rate  of 
income. 

The  investment  per  head  of  sheep  has  been  determined  by  dividing 
the  total  investment,  exclusive  of  lands,  by  the  size  of  the  flock.    The 


814 


REPOET  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


inyestment  in  land  hm  he^n  excluded  because  of  ite  widely  varying 
adgiiificance  in  different  sections  and  even  among  flock  owners  of  the 
same  section. 

In  examining  our  various  tabulations  it  should  be  remembered  that 
no  interest  is  allowed  on  capital  invested  or  on  capital  borrowed. 
Our  schedules  contained  statistics  of  the  amount  of  capital  borrowed 
and  the  rate  of  interest  paid ;  but,  notwithstanding  the  fact  that  it  has 
been  tJie  practice,  in  discussing  the  sheep  industry,  to  consider  interest 
as  an  item  of  cost,  it  has  been  thought  advisable  in  this  investigation 
to  consider  it  in  connection  with  profits.  Since  some  flock  owners 
use  much  more  borrowed  capital  tnan  do  others,  this  elimination  of 
interest  from  costs  makes  the  schedules  more  comparable. 

In  the  western  United  States  the  prevailing  rate  of  interest  varies 
from  8  per  cent  to  10  per  cent;  in  Australia  from  4  per  cent  to  6 
per  cent,  and  in  South  America  from  5  per  cent  to  6  per  cent. 

HOUBSS    COVERING    MORE    THAN   THREE    MILLION    HEAD    OF    SHEEP 
AND  OVER  TWENTY  MILLION  POUNDS  OP  WOOL. 

With  this  general  outline  of  the  method  adopted  in  developing 
the  facts  as  to  general  production  expense  in  the  western  United 
States  the  results  are  herewith  appended:  arranged  first  in  groups 
illustrating  the  wide  variations  naturally  looked  for  in  an  industry 
of  this  character,  the  net  averages  afterwards  being  shown  by  States, 
by  sections,  and  for  the  region  as  a  whole. 

The  schedules  upon  whicli  these  calculations  are  based  were  filled 
out  by  agents  of  the  Tariff  Board,  who  personally  visited  each  flock 
owner.  As  far  as  possible  such  flock  owners  were  selected  as  had 
kept  partial  or  complete  accounts  of  their  operations  and  were 
therefore  especially  qualified  to  furnish  the  information  required. 
Among  the  large  flock  owners  of  the  West  full  accounts  are  often 
kept,  and  in  every  instance  access  to  them  was  freely  granted.  The 
Btatistica  thus  obtained  are  deemed  sufliciently  comprehensive  and 
typical  to  afford  a  basis  for  conclusions  as  to  tlie  present  condition 
of  the  sheep  industry  of  the  western  United  States. 

The  results  of  the  investigation  of  tlie  flock  industry  west  of  the 
Missouri  River  are  summanzed  in  the  following  six  tables,  which 
apply  to  3,151,731  slieep,  producing  20,764,713  pounds  of  wool. 

Table  I  represents  those  cases  in  wliich  the  net  charge  against  a 
pound  of  wool  is  20  cents  and  above. 

Table  II,  those  in  which  it  is  15  cents  and  under  20  cents. 

Table  III,  those  in  which  it  is  10  cents  and  under  15  cents. 

Table  IV,  those  in  wliich  it  is  5  cents  and  under  10  cents. 

Table  V,  those  in  which  it  is  under  5  cents. 

Table  Yl,  those  in  which  there  is  a  net  credit  to  wool. 


BEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


315 


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326 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


Tlie  statistics  contained  in  tlio  forejjoing  tables  are  further  sum- 
marized in  the  following  Tables  VII,  VIII,  and  IX. 


TABLE   Vn. 


Net  charge. 

Cases. 

Sheep. 

Pounds  of  wool. 

Table 

Num- 
ber. 

Percent- 
age of 
total. 

Number. 

Percent- 
age of 
total. 

Average 
size  of 
flock. 

Number. 

Percent- 
age of 

total. 

I 

n 

20  tents  and  abovo 

15  cents  and  iindtT  20 

cents 

40 

59 

71 

74 
42 
44 

12.1 

17.9 

21.5 

22.4 
12.7 
13.4 

418,541 

594,268 
807,775 

077,545 

3,52,912 
280,000 

13.9 

18.9 

25.6 

21.5 

11.2 

8.9 

10,964 

10,072 

11,377 

9,156 
8,403 
6,379 

2,630,297 

3,830,815 

5,459,088 

4,605,141 
2,293,087 
1,874,285 

12.7 

18.5 

26.3 

22.5 

9.0 

11.0 

III 

IV 
VI 

1            ;  and  under  15 

S  cents  and  under   10 

cents 

Under  5  cents 

Net  credit 

Total 

330 

100.0   3,151.731 

100.0 

9,651 

20,704,713 

100.0 

Net  charge. 

Net  charge  against  wool. 

Selling  price. 

Differ. 

Table. 

Highest. 

Ijowest 

Actual 
■    average. 

Highest. 

Lowest. 

Actual 
average. 

tween 
average 

net 
charge 

andf 

average 

selling 

price. 

I 
II 

20  cents  and  above 

15  cents  and  under  20 
cents 

SO.  384 
.198 
.148 

.098 

.043 
.20<i 

f0.20 

.15 

.10 

.051 
.001 
.001 

•0.237         fO.235 

10.113 

.087 

.11 

.097 

.09 

.097 

80.182 

.171 

.153 

.157 
.153 
.140 

—.055 

'  III 

IV 

V 
VI 

10  cents  and  under  15 

cents 

5  cents  and   under  10 

cents 

Under  5  cents 

Net  credit 

Total 

.119 

.077 

.027 

+.0.19 

.  22 

.242 
.223 
.215 

.003 

.034 

.08 

.126 

.179 

.109 

.159 

.05 

1 

It  wiU  be  noticed  that  the  flock  owners  of  gi'oup  IV  wlio  are 
producing  wool  at  an  average  net  charge  per  pound  of  7.7  cents  and 
mth  an  average  profit  per  pound  of  8  cents,  are  the  most  numerous 
of  the  six  groups,  whereas  the  next  largest  group—group  Ill—are 
producing  wool  at  an  average  net  charge  per  pound  of  11.9  cents 
and  with  an  average  profit  per  pound  of  3.4  cents,  and  that  these  two 
groups  of  flock  owners  together,  constituting  about  one-half  of  the 
total  number  of  owners,  owning  about  one-half  of  the  total  number 
of  sheep  and  producing  about  one-half  of  the  total  number  of  pounds 
of  wool,  conducted  the  year's  operations  at  an  average  net  charge 
per  pound  of  wool  of  about  10  cents  and  mth  an  average  gain  per 
pound  of  wool  of  about  5.5  cents,  maldng  (as  shown  in  Table  IX)  an 
average  net  income  of  7.3  per  cent. 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K, 


327 


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BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


EEPOET  OF  TABIFF  BOAED  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


329 


The  above  table  shows,  witli  regard  to  the  average  costs  per  head 
that  in  the  average  forage  costs  per  head  there  is  wide  variation  and 
that  both  the  average  forage  costs  per  head  and  the  average  miscel- 
laneous costs  per  liead  are  high  in  those  groups  where  there  is  a  hic^h 
net  charge  against  wool,  altliough  the  miscellaneous  costs  vary  less 
widely  than  do  the  forage  costs.  Concerning  receipts,  this  table 
shows  that  m  group  VI  the  average  receipts  from  wool  per  head  are 
lower  and  the  average  receipts  from  otlier  sources  very  much  higher 
than  m  any  other  group,  but  that  if  group  VI  be  left  out  of  account 
there  is  but  little  variation  in  the  average  receipts  from  wool  per 
head. 

It  will  be  noticed  that  the  average  capital  per  head  varies  but  little 
Wie  extremes  being  $5.33  and  $5.62,  but  that  in  the  average  rate  of 
mcome  on  capital  there  is  wide  variation,  from  a  loss  of  9.1  per  cent 
to  a  gain  of  24.2  per  cent,  the  average  being  a  gain  of  6.2  per  cent, 
while  for  48.5  per  cent  of  the  total  number  of  flockomiers  the  year's 
operations  resulted  in  an  income  of  10.7  per  cent  or  more. 


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COMPARATIVE   OPERATING   COSTS    BY   COUNTRIES. 

The  countries  which  are  either  actually  or  potentially  competi- 
tors of  the  United  States  in  the  production  of  wool  are  Aus- 
tralasia, including  Australia  and  New  Zealand,  South  America, 
including  Argentina,  Uruguay,  and  Chile,  and  South  Africa.  It  has 
not  been  possible,  nor  has  the  board  deemed  it  necessary,  to  present 
detailed  tables  of  costs  for  these  countries,  as  has  been  done  in  the 
case  of  the  United  States.  And  while  the  statistics  of  comparative 
costs  presented  in  the  following  pages  are  for  the  most  part  based  on 
information  collected  in  the  countries  concerned  by  special  agents 
or  representatives  of  the  board,  it  should  be  remembered  that  from 
the  nature  of  things  this  information  is  not  so  complete  as  that  col- 
lected for  the  United  States  and  that  consequently  the  statistics 
partake  more  of  the  nature  of  estimates  or  approximations  than  do 
those  given  for  the  United  States.  The  board  oeheves,  however,  that 
the  statistics  of  costs  presented  are  sufficiently  typical  and  closely 
enough  approximate  the  costs  incurred  during  normal  seasons  and 
under  conditions  necessitating  no  abnormal  expenses  to  bring  out  the 
comparative  conditions  existing  in  the  United  States  and  these  other 

countries. 

The  board  has  not  thought  it  necessary  or  desirable  to  include  all 
the  countries  above  mentioned  in  the  detailed  comparison  of  costs, 
but  has  confined  such  comparison  to  Australia  and  South  America, 
and  in  the  case  of  New  Zealand  and  South  Africa  has  presented  only 
comparative  statements  of  general  costs. 

Unless  otherwise  indicated,  the  statistics  here  presented  are  for  the 
year  1909-10,  and  those  given  for  the  United  States  apply  only  to 
the  region  west  of  the  Missouri  Kiver. 

Comparative  investment, — In  the  United  States,  as  represented  by 
the  region  west  of  the  Missouri  River,  the  average  investment  per 
head  oi  sheep  in  the  case  of  the  flocks  studied  is  $5.30.  In  Austraha 
and  South  America  it  is  estimated  as  $6  and  $4,  respectively. 
This  investment  consists  of  investment  in  the  flock  and  investment 
in  improvements  and  equipment. 

In  our  Western  States  the  investment  in  the  flock  is  $4.40  per 
head,  and  in  Austraha  and  South  America  $4  and  $2.75,  respec- 
tively. These  are  the  values  obtaining  during  the  early  months  of 
1909.  Since  then  the  sheep  industry  of  the  United  States  has  under- 
gone decided  depression,  with  the  result  of  a  shrinkage  of  flock 
values,  in  some  cases  amounting  to  25  to  50  per  cent.  In  Austraha, 
on  the  contrary,  the  industry  has  been  in  a  highly  flourishing  con- 
dition, and  this  has  created  a  strong  demand  for  stock  sheep;  so 
that  there  has  probably  been  some  increase  in  the  average  value  of 
the  flock.  And  in  South  America  the  industry  has  continued  to 
flourish  and  the  flock  values  have  remained  practically  unchanged. 

The  fact  that  the  average  investment  in  the  flock  is  lower  in  Aus- 
traha and  in  South  America  than  in  the  United  States  is  due  to  the 
greater  average  distance  of  the  sheep  runs  from  the  market  and  to 
the  decidedly  higher  percentage  of  wethers  and  immature  sheep  in 
the  flocks.  And  the  fact  that  the  flock  values  are  lowest  in  South 
America  is  due  to  local  conditions  and  to  the  inferiority  of  the  South 
American  sheep  as  compared  with  those  of  Australia. 


1 


O04 


BEPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


EEPOKT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


335 


The  investment  other  than  investment  in  the  flock,  comprisinsf 
investment  in  improvements  and  investment  in  equipment,  amoimta 
in  the  Western  States  to  S0.87  and  in  Australia  and  Soutli  America 
to  $2.10  and  11.25,  respectively. 

Improvements  comprise  such  items  as  buildings,  which  include 
dwelhng  houses  and  shelter  for  sheep  and  other  stock  used  in  sheep 
husbamlry,  and  for  crop;  lambing  and  shearing  sheds,  wells,  wind- 
mills, tanks,  ditches,  dipping  vats,  etc.  The  nature  and  extent  of 
the  improvements  vary  greatly  from  region  to  region  and  from  ranch 
to  ranch,  according  to  the  varying  conditions  and  needs.  The 
Western  flock  owner  as  a  rule  snends  but  little  money  on  ranch 
dwellings,  as  he  himself  frequently  Mves  in  town,  and  most  of  his 
employees  lead  a  nomadic  life  with  the  slieep.  In  the  Soutli  west, 
moreover,  on  account  of-  the  mild  climate,  shelter  for  the  flock  and 
lambing  sheds  are  not  required,  and  since  the  sheep  graze  the  year 
rounds  there  are  no  harvested  crops  to  be  housed.  But  farther 
north,  sheep  shelters,  bams  and  lambing  sheds  are  necessary,  and 
some  provision  must  be  made  for  housing  a  portion  of  the  extensive 
crops  raised  to  carry  the  sheep  through  the  wint-er.  This  advantage 
of  the  Southwest  in  regard  to  improvements  is  largely  offset  by  the 
greater  investmenii  required  for  the  supplving  of  water. 

In  the  Northwest  there  is  as  a  niie  a  natural  water  supply,  whereas 
in  tlie  more  arid  Southwest  the  requisite  supply  can,  in  many  cases, 
be  assured  only  by  means  of  expensive  dams,  wells,  reservoirs, 
ditches^  etc.,  and  consequently  the  average  expenditure  for  improve- 
ments IS  about  as  great  in  the  Southwest  as  in  the  Northwest. 

In  the  Western  States  sheep  are  almost  universally  herded,  and, 
aside  from  corrals,  fences  are  built  only  to  protect  grazing  lands 
from  cattle  and  horses.  The  extent  of  such  fences  varies  in  different 
regions,  but  is  nowhere  great. 

The  investment  in  shearing  plants  is  not  important  in  the  United 
States,  except  on  the  largest  ranches,  since  the  general  practice,  in 
the  West  is  to  drive  the  sheep  to  some  central  shearing  plant  near  a 
railroad,  thus  avoiding  the  long  haulage  of  wool. 

The  average  value  of  improvements  in  tlie  United  States  is  low 
in  comparison  with  their  importance  to  the  industry.  They  are  too 
often  clieaplY  constructed,  owing  m  some  cases  to  the  fact  that  they 
are  built  on  land  held  under  uncertain  leases,  in  others  to  the  immi- 
nent probability  of  the  substitution  of  agriculture  for  flock  husbandry, 
and  in  general  to  the  lack  of  stability  and  permanence  of  the  industry 
and  the  consequent  scarcity  of  capital  and  high  rates  of  interest. 

The  unsubstantial  nature  of  tne  improvements  entails  a  heavy 
burden  on  the  industry  and  explains  tlie  high  charges  for  mainte- 
nance and  repairs  and  for  depreciation,  which  together  amount  to 
nearly  5  cents  a  head.  Until  the  industry  can  be  put  on  a  more  per- 
manent footing  it  will  apparently  be  impossible  to  reduce  this  item. 

The  investment  for  equipment  is  an  important  item  in  the  United 
States,  being  on  an  average  about  45per  cent  of  the  total  investment 
in  improvements  and  equipment.  The  equipment  is  of  two  classes, 
that  which  is  used  in  connection  with  the  direct  care  of  the  sheep 
and  that  which  is  used  in  cultivating  and  harvesting  crops  for  the 
sheep  or  in  providing  for  the  needs  of  the  employees. 

The  equipment  comprises  such  items  as  horses  and  pack  animals, 
harness,   saddles,   freight  wagons,  camp  outfits,  including  specially 


fitted  up  herders'  wagons,  tents,  etc.  Horses  form  an  important 
part  of  the  equipment,  being  required  for  hauling  provisions  long 
distances  and  as  mounts  for  the  men.  Many  flock  owners  econo- 
mize by  raising  their  own  horses. 

The  maintenance  of  the  equipment  in  this  country  is  a  constant 
source  of  expense.  Many  items  are  of  a  perishable  nature;  there  are 
heavy  losses  from  breakage  and  theft;  and  owing  to  the  hard  roa<ls 
and  the  hot,  dry  climate,  the  expensive  herders'  wagons  must  frequently 
be  replaced.  How  heavy  this  burden  is  appears  from  the  fact  that 
the  maintenance  ani  repairs  and  the  depreciation  amount  to  4  cents 
per  head  of  sheep. 

The  gradual  breaking  up  of  the  ranges,  necessitating  the  running 
of  the  sheep  in  smaller  bands,  will  involve  an  increasing  expenditure 
on  equipment;  and  as  long  as  the  present  system  of  runnmg  sheep 
remains  in  vogue  any  material  reduction  or  this  item  seems  to  be 
impossible. 

In  Australia  the  investment  other  than  that  in  the  flock  is  now 
almost  entirely  devoted  to  improvements,  because  the  sheep  are 
as  a  general  practice  no  longer  lierded,  but  are  run  on  the  paudock 
system,  so  tnat  the  equipment  is  small  in  comparison  with  that 
needed  in  the  United  States.  In  South  America  also  the  paddock 
system  is  in  general  use,  and  where  herding  is  resorted  to  the  ranges 
are  large  and  open,  and  the  conditions  are  such  that  relatively  little 
equipment  is  required.  In  both  these  countries  shelter  for  sheep  and 
lambing  sheds  are  not  required  and  there  are  no  harvested  crops  to 
be  stored.  The  investment  for  water  supply  is,  however,  heavy, 
especially  in  Australia. 

In  Australia  sheep  raising  is  a  permanent  and  highly  specialized 
industry.  Abundant  capital  has  been  available,  at  a  low  rate  of 
interest,  and  extensive  well-constructed  improvements  are  the  rule. 
Since  the  flocks  are  not  migi'atory  and  the  ranches  are  far  from  the 
centers  of  population,  permanent  dwellings  for  all  the  employees  are 
required.  Moreover,  tne  paddock  system  involves  a  heavy  outlay  for 
fencing. 

While  the  investment  other  than  that  in  the  flock  is  much  higher 
in  AustraUa  than  in  the  United  States,  the  superiority  of  the  im- 
provements, together  with  the  fact  that  no  great  investment  in 
perishable  eauipment  is  necessary  and  the  further  fact  that  interest 
on  capital  is  low,  makes  the  expenditures  for  maintenance  and  repairs 
and  depreciation  smaller  in  proportion  to  the  investment  than  in  the 
United  States,  although,  owing  to  the  greater  amount  of  the  invest- 
ment the  absolute  amount  of  these  expenditures  is  somewhat  higher 
than  here. 

In  South  America  the  position  of  the  industry  as  regards  the  invest- 
ment other  than  that  in  the  flock  is  exceptionally  favorable,  owing 
to  the  fact  that,  except  in  the  isolated  regions,  the  raising  of  sheep  is 
carried  on  in  connection  with  that  of  other  animals,  which  bear  a  part 
of  the  burden  for  improvements. 

GENERAL   AND   MISCELLANEOUS   COSTS. 

The  average  "Operating  costs  per  head,"  approximately  $2.11  in 
the  Western  States,  are  estimated  at  $0.93  in  Australia  and  $1.15  in 
South  America.  These  costs  comprise  '^Miscellaneous  costs,  labor 
costs,  and  forage  costs." 


836 


REPOBT  OP   TABIFF  BOABD  OH  SCHEDITLE  K. 


The  average  "Miscellaneous  costs  per  head"  are  approximatelv 
10.83  in  the  United  States,  $0.78  in  Australia,  and  $0.57  in  South 
America.  This  is  a  heavy  charge,  and  some  attention  should  therefore 
be  given  to  the  various  items. 

Administration  has  been  included  under  this  head  m  the  figures 
given  for  Australia.  In  the  United  States  the  flocks  are  not  often 
large  enough  to  warrant  the  employment  of  special  administrators. 
Tho  admin^trative  functions  are  usually  performed  by  overseers  and 
superintendents,  and  these  have  been  considered  under  the  head  of 
labor.  This  is  also  true  of  South  America;  but  m  Australia,  with  its 
highly-organized  and  well-systematized  sheep  industry  and  its  large 
flocks,  administrators  are  usually  employed,  and  the  average  admin- 
istration charge  is  about  5  cents  per  head.  .     ,    ,    ,      -.i    xi 

The  "Costs  of  maintenance  and  repairs"  are  mcluded  with  the 
"Costs  of  depreciation."  The  rate  of  depreciation  of  the  flock  is 
about  the  same  in  South  America  as  in  the  Umted  States;  but  in 
Australia,  since  the  period  of  service  of  breeding  ewes  is  soniewhat 
shorter,  a  slightly  higher  rate  of  depreciation  should  be  aUowed. 
O^ing,  however,  to  the  lower  average  value  of  the  flock,  the  average 
costs  of  depreciation  per  head  are  about  the  same  in  Austraha  as  m  the 
United  States,  namely,  about  $0.36  as  against  $0.26  in  South  America. 

The  ret^ular  annual  losses  constitute  a  heavy  burden  m  the  Umted 
States,  "^hey  are  chiefly  due  to  poisonous  plants,  predatory  animals, 
and  certain  conditions  growing  out  of  the  herdmg  system  Ihere 
are  practically  no  losses  from  disease.  In  Australia  and  boutli 
America,  on  the  other  hand,  there  are  no  poisonous  plants,  and  the 
ravages  of  predatory  animals  are  not  severe,  owing  partly  to  the  fact 
that  animals  which  prev  on  sheep  are  not  numerous  in  these  countries, 
and  partly  to  the  protection  afforded  by  the  paddock  system.  More- 
over, the  losses  from  disease  are  not  important,  although  m  some 
regions  certain  pests  cause  the  flock  owner  some  trouble  and  expense. 
However,  the  losses  among  breeding  ewes  are  probably  higher  m  both 
Australia  and  South  Amenca  than  m  the  Umted  States,  owing  to  the 
fact  that  under  the  pecuHar  conditions  of  the  Umted  States  flock 
ownei-8  are  forced  to  give  the  ewes  more  attention  at  lambing  time. 
But  tliis  advantage  of  the  United  States  is  more  than  counterbalanced 
by  the  greater  losses  from  other  causes,  so  that  we  may  estimate  the 
average  rate  of  losses  on  the  flock  in  the  United  States  at  3  per  cent, 
as  against  2  per  cent  in  Austraha  and  South  America.  But  it  should 
be  noted  that  this  does  not  cover  the  total  charge  against  predatory 
animals.  In  the  United  States  the  flock  owner  must  wage  a  war  of 
extermination  against  such  animals,  spending  large  sums  on  bounties 
and  ammunition ;  and  at  lambing  time  various  devices,  such  as  fires, 
lanterns,  powder  explosions,  etc.,  must  be  resorted  to  m  order  to  ward 
the  animals  off.  The  average  amount  annuaUy  spent  to  protect  the 
flocks  of  the  United  States  from  predatory  animals,  mcludmg  dues 
to  local  associations  organized  for  this  purpose,  is  nearly  1  cent  per 
bead,  which  in  the  case  of  a  large  flock  constitutes  a  considerable  item. 
The  expenditures  for  this  puq>ose  are  much  lower  m  Australia  and 
nearly  negligible  in  South  America,  although  in  the  former  country 
the  flock  owners  are  obliged  to  expend  considerable  sums  on  rabbit- 
proof  fences  and,  in  some  States,  to  pay  special  taxes,  which  are 
expended  on  the  protection  of  the  flocks  from  predatory  animals  and 
from  disease- 


BEPOBT  OF   TAHIFF  BOABD   ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


337 


In  the  United  States  a  skin  disease  known  as  scab  is  widely 
prevalent  among  sheep,  so  that  a  large  percentage  of  the  flock  owners 
are  forced  to  resort  to  dipping,  which,  iii  the  worst  infected  regions, 
must  be  done  two  or  three  times  a  season.  The  average  expense  of 
dipping,  for  the  country  as  a  whole,  is  about  2  cents  a  head.  In 
Austrfdia,  on  the  other  hand,  the  disease  has  been  practically  erad- 
icated and  occasions  no  considerable  charge  against  the  industry, 
although  in  certain  restricted  regions  dipping  is  still  necessary.  But 
in  South  America  the  disease  is  prevalent  in  a  much  more  severe 
form  than  in  the  iJnited  States,  and  the  average  cost  of  dipping  per 
head  is  fully  twice  as  much. 

In  the  United  States  taxation  is  a  heavy  burden,  amounting  to  nearly 
5  cents  a  sheep.  Both  sheep  and  improvements  are  taxed  in  aU  the 
States  investigated.  The  larger  owners  pay  a  national  incorporation 
tax,  and  some  States  impose  a  license  tax  on  flocks  brought  in  from 
other  States  for  grazing  purposes.  Grazing  conditions  frequently 
make  it  necessary  to  move  sheep  from  one  part  of  a  State  to  another, 
and  it  sometimes  happens  that  the  same  sheep  are  taxed  twice  during 
the  same  year. 

In  Australia  the  taxation  on  sheep,  including  the  small  tax  already 
mentioned  as  levied  for  the  protection  of  the  flocks,  local  taxes,  and 
an  income  tax,  amounts  to  about  half  as  much  as  in  the  United  States. 
In  South  America  the  average  tax  on  sheep  is  about  4  cents  a  head. 

Shearing  costs  are  comparatively  high  in  the  United  States.  The 
flock  is  usually  driven  a  long  distance  to  a  common  shearing  plant, 
consisting  of  little  more  than  a  shelter  for  the  men  and  paddocKs  for 
the  sheep.  After  being  removed  by  the  shearer,  the  entire  fleece  is 
tied  into  a  bundle  and  tossed  to  the  packer,  who  tramps  it  into  a  bag. 
No  attempt  at  sorting  or  cleaning  is  made,  and  as  a  rule  but  little 
care  is  used  to  protect  the  fleece  from  dirt  and  other  foreign  sub- 
stances. That  is  to  say,  the  charge  for  shearing,  which  is  about  9J 
cents  a  head,  is  a  charge  for  simply  removing  the  wool  from  the  sheep, 
tving  it  into  a  bundle,  and  carelessly  tramping  it  into  bags.  Tne 
snearer  himself  sometimes  rolls  and  ties  the  fleece,  so  that  no  work 
remains  to  be  done  except  to  tramp  the  fleece  into  the  bag. 

In  Australia,  on  the  other  hand,  each  ranch  is  equipped  with  a 
durably  constructed  and  well-arranged  shearing  plant,  and  the  work 
of  removing  and  caring  for  the  fleece  is  all  done  on  clean  floors,  the 
greatest  care  being  exercised  to  protect  the  fleece  from  contact  with 
foreign  substances.  After  the  fleece  is  removed  it  passes  to  the 
"sorter,"  who  separates  the  inferior  parts  (bellies,  tags,  leg  pieces, 
locks,  sofled  parts,  etc.)  from  the  main  part,  known  as  the  ''fleece," 
a  process  which  is  cafled  ''skirting,''  and  puts  them  into  different 
bins.  The  fleece  itself  is  then  roUed  and  secured  by  twisting  in  one 
end,  no  strings  being  used.  The  sorters  are  higlily  sldlled  men,  who 
m  many  cases  have  had  experience  in  sortmg  wool  in  English  mills. 
They  work  under  the  direct  supervision  of  the  "classer,"  who  bears 
the  responsibility  for  the  proper  skirtmg  of  the  fleeces  and  their  final 
classification  into  "combing,^  "clothing,"  etc.  The  packing  is  done 
♦K  V^f^^*  care,  and  hydraulic  presses  are  used  to  reduce  the  size  of 
the  bales.  Bv  this  means  diflFerent  ranches  estabhsh  a  reputation  in 
tne  market  that  gives  value  to  the  brand,  and  there  is  rivalry  to 
attain  the  honor  and  the  financial  rewards  that  come  firom  topping 

32080°--H.  Doc.  342, 62-2.  vol  1 22 


# 


-338 


BEPOBT  OF  TABITF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


BEPOET  OF  TARIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


339 


the  market.    This  serves  as  a  constant  stimulus  to  better  breeding 

and  careful  handling  of  the  clip.    ,      .  ,,■    ■    ^Van  »<>  nbout 

TK«  ftvprflire  totS  cost  of  sheanng  m  Austraha  is  given  as  aoou* 
8  2s^  ifead  Of  this,  7  centslSes  to  the  shearers  the  men  who 
di^ctWait  on  them,  aid  those  who  pack  the  wool,  so  tta*  th^ 
Bmonnt  Z  Daid  for  work  for  which  9i  cents  is  paid  _m  the  United 
S  ThrremainL  amount,  about  1  cent,  w^ch  is.e^Pe^ded  in 
Australia  goes  to  pay  for  the  more  careful  preparation  of  the  ^ooHor 
^e  maK  and  U this  there  is  no  corresponding  expenditure  m 

*^Thetft  Kgs  has  not  been  included  in  the  shearing^  When 
oTdinarv  iute  ba^  are  used  their  cost  is  about  the  same  as  in  the 
TW^^^States  b^  lest  loose  fibers  of  jute  may  become  mixed  with 
the  wool  it  is  the  uTual  practice  in  iustralia  to  singe  these  bags 
in  the  Wde  The  more  careful  flock  owners,  however,  are  using 
bLs  linXwith  paper,  which  about  doubles  the  cost.  The  bales  are 
mwkKth  the^olner's  name  and  with  a  statement  of  the  qua hty 
Td  clasTof  the  wool  contained,  and  the  grower's  identity  is  not  lost 

'^t  '^jrl^^^:ii!'^eX^^s  are  l-er  th«.  in  ^^  ^ 

asfaTmethor^  preparing  wool  for  the  market  are  F^^uf  y  S^^^Jf 
adopted  in  South  Wica,  the  methods  prevailmg  m  that  country 
more  nearly  approach  those  of  the  Umted  States.  ^„„™Hp™d 

^e  items  of  iiisceUaneous  expenses  winch  remain  to  be  ^ns^ered 
ammmt  approximately  on  an  average  per  head  o  |i  c|^t^^  the 
TTnitnH  States  8  cents  in  Austraha,  and  4  cents  in  boutn  America,. 
B^i  since  o~vlt  of  the  differing  conditions  of  the  mdustry  m  the 
toee  co^?ri^,  it  has  been  necessary  to  g«>"Pfe  items  djf^eren^^^^^^ 
these  amounts  are  not  «>"«^tly  compara^^^^^^^^^  ^7ot  XortS 

KoSer"rco3S.'  To/e1amKm^^^^^ 
^leVsuli'aVr^arly  obUged  to  mo- their  s^  hund^^^^^^^^^ 

r^^ffiha?iaiSaSr^1Sh^ 

fet  settti  the  fo«?e  r^^^      by  the  sheep  during  transit,  andf, 

country  important  items  of  expense,  and  they  do  not  normauy  oci. 

fJ^e42S.    This  .^tmJly  v»«  «!»"?  J»»  ?»'  •»  J""' 
iw.irv,\.ii«4ATi  fn  TPmon  and  even  from  ranch  to  rancn.     ^  ,.         , 

South  America  is  the  cost  of  hauhng  wool,  often  long  distances,  to  me 


market      In  the  United  States  this  expense  is  considerably  less, 
because  the  shearmg  plants  are  located  near  the  radroad. 

COMPARATIVE   LABOR   COSTS. 

The  average  costs  of  labor  per  head,  including  the  cost  of  food  and 
lodging  are  about  $0.82  in  the  Western  States,  about  $0.07  m  Aus- 
tralia  and  about  $0.23  in  South  America. 

In  the  United  States  the  laborers  consist  of  supenntendents  or 
overseers,  herders,  camp  tenders,  cooks,  general  ranch  laborers  and 
extra  laborers  employed  at  lambing  time.  Of  the  total  average 
charge  of  about  $0.82,  about  $0.63  goes  to  the  first  three  classes,  who 
are  usii  ally  employed  throughout  the  year.  The  following  table  shows 
the  average  wages  per  month,  including  board,  paid  in  the  different 
States. 


Arizona 

California 

Colorado 

Idaho 

Montana 

Nevada 

New  Mexico 

Oregon 

Utah 

Washington 

Wyoming 

The  region 


Sui)erin- 
teadents. 


84.80 

94.05 

76.24 

101.98 

102.22 

111.50 

66.21 

85.52 

89.08 

89.60 

113.80 


90.72 


Camp 
tenders. 


50.38 
68.76 
45.83 
69.03 
68.39 
64.93 
39.61 
62.52 
63.06 
61.33 
69.00 


59.82 


Herders. 


49.18 
54.18 
41.44 
66.66 
62.70 
59.42 
33.03 
58.04 
64.34 
60.85 
64.64 


62.40 


Extra 
labor. 


49.38 
55.13 
37.20 
65.70 
62.72 
63.02 
32.72 
67.87 
62.13 
67.54 
66.61 


Number 

of  sheep 

to  one 

maiL 


867 
1,355 

897 
1,399 
1,788 
1,088 

756 
1,418 
1,247 
1,100 
1,112 


50.37 


1,119 


The  wide  variations  are  due  to  several  factors,  one  of  which  is  the 
different  nationaUty  of  employees.  This  affects  both  wages  proper 
and  food  costs.  In  the  Southwest,  for  example,  where  Mexican  labor 
is  employed,  the  average  monthly  wages  of  a  nerder  range  from  about 
$22  to  $35,  and  the  cost  of  his  food  ranges  from  about  $11  to  $14, 
making  a  total  average  monthly  charge  of  from  about  $33  to  $49 ; 
whereas  in  Idaho  the  average  monthly  wages  of  a  herder  are  about 
$48  and  the  cost  of  his  food  $18,  making  a  total  charge  of  about 
$66.  Owing,  however,  to  the  greater  efficiency  of  American  labor, 
the  actual  difference  in  the  labor  costs  is  much  less  than  the  figures 
indicate. 

Labor  costs  are  also  affected  by  the  local  demand  for  labor  in  other 
industries,  which  varies  from  region  to  region;  and  a  third  factor 
affecting  comparative  labor  costs  is  the  varying  cost  of  freighting 
provisions  from  the  nearest  railroad. 

It  mav  be  stated  that  in  general  it  is  difficult  for  flock  owners  to 
secure  the  necessary  labor,  owing  partly  to  the  general  scarcity  of 
labor  and  partly  to  the  hardships  of  life  on  the  range  under  existing 
conditions,  and  that  they  are  therefore  forced  to  pay  high  wages  and 
to  meet  the  demands  of  the  men  with  regard  to  the  quahty  of  their 
board.  The  conditions  of  the  range  are  such  that  with  the  exception 
of  mutton,  provisions  must  usually  be  bought;  and  owing  to  the 
nomadic  life  of  the  herder,  supervision  of  supplies  is  difficult  and  there 
is  much  waste. 


840 


REPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


Since  the  system  under  which  sheep  are  run  in  Australia  and  South 
America  differs  radically  from  that  employed  in  the  United  States,  the 
classes  of  laborers  there  employed  are  not  strictly  comparable  to 
those  of  this  country.  In  both  these  countries  superintendents  form 
a  distinct  class  and  their  average  salaries  are  higher  than  in  the  United 
States.  The  work  done  by  the  boundary  riders  roughly  corresponds 
to  that  done  in  this  country  by  the  camp  tenders  and  herders,  and  the 
station  hands  correspond  m  a  general  way  to  the  ranch  hands.  In 
neither  Australia  nor  South  America  is  extra  labor  required  at  lamb- 
ing time. 

In  Austraha  the  average  monthly  wages,  including  food  and  lodg- 
ing, of  boundary  riders  are  about  $40,  and  those  of  station  hands 
about  $40  to  $50.  Of  these  amounts,  about  $20  represents  in  each 
case  the  charge  for  board,  which  is,  on  an  average,  about  the  same  in 
Australia  as  m  the  United  States.  The  wages  of  native  laborers, 
whom  the  Austrahan  flock  owners  are  sometunes  forced  to  employ, 
are  decidedly  below  these  averages;  but  such  labor  is  uncertain  and 
inefficient  and  does  not  play  an  important  r61e. 

In  South  America  the  labor  costs  are  less  than  in  Australia  because 
of  the  employment  of  much  native  labor,  which  is  fairly  efficient. 
Not  only  are  the  average  wages  lower,  but  on  account  of  the  compara- 
tively low  standard  of  living  of  the  natives,  the  cost  of  their  food 
and  lodging  is  only  about  half  as  much  as  in  the  United  States  and 
Australia. 

Under  our  shepherding  system  much  more  labor  is  required  than 
under  the  paddock  svstem,  and  the  unfavorable  range  conditions  of 
the  United  States  still  further  increase  the  amount  of  labor  required. 
Whereas  in  Australia  and  South  America  the  cost  of  the  actual  labor 
of  caring  for  the  sheep  is  merely  nominal,  in  the  United  States,  on  the 
other  hand,  this  item  alone  is  a  heavy  burden,  constituting  about 
$0.48  of  the  $0.82,  which  is  the  average  total  labor  charge  per  head. 

Most  of  the  large  free  ranges  of  the  early  days  of  western  sheep 
raising  have  been  broken  up  by  the  coming  of  the  homesteader;  and 
in  order  to  utilize  the  free  range  remaimng  the  flock  owner  must 
now  run  liis  sheep  in  comparatively  small  bands.  Furthermore,  the 
land  policy  of  the  United  States  has  been  unfavorable  to  the  holding 
of  large  tracts  of  land,  and  therefore  grazing  land  belonging  to  flock 
owners  or  leased  by  them  from  the  State  or  from  private  parties  often 
consists  of  scattered  sections. 

Furthermore,  the  grazing  lands  are,  as  a  rule,  the  waste  parts  of 
the  country,  mountainous,  semiarid,  and  producing  but  scant  herbage, 
and  are,  to  a  great  extent,  fit  only  for  sheep  grazing.  Thus,  while 
forage  may  be  obtained  free  or  at  a  low  cost,  the  remoteness  of  the 
grazing  lands,  the  nomadic  nature  of  the  grazing,  the  scarcity  of 
water,  the  danger  of  predatory  animals,  and  the  constant  need  of  care 
to  prevent  trespassing,  necessitate  an  expenditure  for  labor  so  great 
as  almost  entirely  to  overshadow  the  advantage  of  the  cheap  forage. 

Owing  to  these  conditions  the  number  of  men  required  in  the  United 
States  for  the  direct  care  of  sheep — that  is,  the  number  of  herders 
and  camp  tenders— has  for  some  years  steadily  increased,  until  at 
present  one  man  is  required  for  about  1,000  sheep,  whereas  one 
boundary  rider  can  attend  to  10,000  to  20,000  sheep  in  Australia  and 
10,000  to  15,000  in  South  America,  according  to  the  carrying  capacity 
of  the  land;  and  in  those  regions  of  South  America  where  the  shep- 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


341 


herding  system  is  in  vogue,  the  large  open  ranges  make  it  possible  for 
one  man  to  care  for  about  5,000  sheep. 

In  the  United  States  an  extra  force  of  men  must,  moreover,  be 
employed  for  from  four  to  six  weeks  at  lambing  time.  These  men 
receive  about  the  usual  wages  of  herders,  and  since  the  average 
number  employed  is  approximately  3  per  1,000  breeding  ewes,  the 
extra-labor  charge  is  a  serious  one.  As  no  extra  labor  is  required  at 
lambing  time  in  either  Australia  or  South  America,  the  flock  owners 
of  these  countries  escape  this  expense. 

It  is  difficult  to  compare  the  costs  of  miscellaneous  labor  in  the 
three  countries  because  the  items  are  not  always  comparable.     The 

groportion  which  these  costs  constitute  of  the  total  labor  costs  is, 
owever,  much  lower  in  the  United  States  than  in  either  Austraha 
or  South  America.  But  the  average  charge  per  head  for  miscella- 
neous labor  in  the  United  States  is  greater  tnan  the  average  total 
labor  charge  in  either  of  the  other  two  countries. 

The  seemingly  heavier  total  expense  for  labor  in  South  America 
as  compared  with  Australia  is  partially  explained  by  the  fact  that 
the  costs  of  hauling  wool  to  the  coast  in  the  former  country  are 
included  under  labor,  while  in  the  latter  this  expense  has  been  included 
under  miscellaneous  expenses. 

The  causes  of  the  comparatively  high  costs  of  labor  in  the  United 
States  may  be  summarized  as: 

(1)  The  great  amount  of  labor  required  owing  (a)  to  the  shei> 
herding  system,  which  necessitates  the  employment  of  much  more 
labor  than  the  paddock  system — so  much  more,  indeed,  that  the 
Australian  flock  owner  estimates  that  by  means  of  the  latter  system 
he  can,  in  ^ve  years,  save  his  entire  costs  of  fencing — and  (6)  to 
unfavorable  climatic  and  range  conditions,  and 

(2)  The  high  rate  of  wages. 

COMPARATIVE   FORAGE    COSTS. 

The  "costs  of  forage"  comprise  the  costs  of  all  feed  consumed  by 
the  sheep,  including  harvested  crops.  These  costs  amount,  approxi- 
mately, on  an  average  per  head  of  sheep,  to  $0.45  in  the  Western 
States,  $0.08  in  Australia,  and  $0.35  in  South  America. 

In  the  United  States  forage  costs  vary  widely  from  region  to 
region,  owing  to  the  varying  extent  of  the  public  lands  and  the  varying 
supply  of  winter  grazing.  In  the  Southwest  there  are  great  semiarid 
wastes  on  which  grazing  for  sheep  may  be  obtained,  either  free  or  at 
a  very  low  charge,  and  where,  owing  to  the  mild  climate,  the  grazing 
^^sts  throughout  the  year  and  no  winter  feeding  is  necessary.  In  the 
neighborhood  of  the  national  forests,  moreover,  flock  owners  can 
obtain  excellent  grazing  at  rates  which,  in  comparison  with  those 
obtaining  m  regions  where  the  grazing  must  be  done  on  private  lands 
and  where  competition  has,  in  many  cases,  forced  grazing  values  to  a 
high  level,  are  merely  nominal.     But  the  grazing  in  the  national 

vm!^  ^^  usually  confined  to  a  few  summer  months. 

When  grazing  lands  were  more  abundant  it  was  the  custom  to  set 
aside  large  tracts  for  winter  grazing,  and  harvested  crops  were  seldom 
led  to  either  sheep  or  horses.  But  as  the  settlement  of  the  country 
Has  made  winter  range  more  and  more  difficult  to  secure,  the  feeding 
Of  harvested  crops  for  some  months  of  the  year  has  gradually  become 


o^A 


BEPORT  OF  TABBPF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  'ON   SCHEDUIiE  K. 


348 


tlie  rule  in  ^e  Northwest,  where  the  cost  of  winter  feeding  now  over- 
shadows that  of  summer  grazing,  constituting  about  $0.74  out  o£ 
about  $0.94,  which  is  the  average  total  amount  of  forage  costs  per 
head  in  the  Northwest.  In  the  Southwest,  however,  except  in  periods 
of  drought,  harvested  crops  are  not  fed  to  a  great  extent  except  to 
rams  and  animals  used  in  caring  for  the  sheep,  and  the  cost  of  such 
crops  constitutes  only  5  to  8  cents  out  of  the  20  cents  which  is  approxi- 
mately the  average  total  amount  per  head  of  forage  costs  in  the  South- 
west. And  in  the  entire  region  the  average  cost  of  winter  feeding 
constitutes  32  cents  out  of  the  45  cents,  which  is  the  average  total 
amount  of  forage  costs  per  head.  It  should,  however,  be  noted  that 
a  part  of  this  increase  in  the  cost  of  winter  feeding  represents  improved 
flock  husbandry  and  a  material  reduction  of  the  risKs. 

Forage  costs  are  low  in  AustraUa  on  account  of  the  abundance  of 
public  lands,  which  it  is  the  policy  of  the  Government  to  lease  in  large 
tracts  for  long  terms  and  at  low  rates.  Since  the  Australian  flock 
industry  depends  mainly  on  such  lands,  forage  costs  on  freehold  lands 
have  not  been  considered  in  computing  the  averages  given.  In  Aus- 
tralia harvested  crops  are  not  usually  fed. 

The  great  disadvantage  of  South  America,  as  compared  with  Aus- 
tralia, in  the  matter  of  forage  costs,  is  attributable  to  the  fact  that  the 
sheep  are  often  grazed  on  valuable  land  which  is  suitable  for  agricul- 
ture, although,  m  the  unsettled  regions,  flock  owners  can  still  secure 
grazing  lands  on  exceedingly  favorable  terms,  in  which  case  sheep  live 
on  the  range  the  year  around,  and  forage  charges  are  nominal. 

COMPARATIVE   RECEIPTS. 

The  receipts  from  the  flock  comprise  receipts  from  wool  and  receipts 
from  other  sources.  Receipts  from  other  sources  include  receipts 
from  the  sale  of  sheep  and  lambs,  either  for  mutton  or  for  breeding 
purposes,  the  value  or  the  lambs  unsold,  and  receipts  from  the  sale  of 
pelts,  tallow,  etc.  It  should  be  borne  in  mind  that  these  receipts  con- 
sist mainly  of  receipts  from  mutton  and  that  therefore  any  discus- 
sion of  the  receipts  from  other  sources  is  reallv  a  discussion  of  the 
receipts  from  mutton.     This  is  especially  true  of  the  United  States. 

The  average  total  receipts  per  nead  for  the  flocks  under  examina- 
tion in  the  Western  States  was  $2.56.  It  is  estimated  that  the  corre- 
sponding figure  for  Australia  would  normally  be  about  $2.23  and  for 
South  America  about  $2.12. 

The  average  receipts  from  wool  in  our  western  flocks  was  about 
$1.17,  or  approximately  45.7  per  cent  of  the  total  receipts  per  head. 
In  Australia  these  are  estimated  at  about  $1.31,  or  approximately  58.7 
per  cent  of  the  total,  and  in  South  America  at  about  $1.28,  or  approxi- 
mately 60.4per  cent  of  the  total. 

In  the  Western  States  the  average  weight  of  the  total  clip  per 
head  of  mature  sheep  is  about  7.3  pounds  and  the  average  price  per 
pound,  delivered  at  the  nearest  shipping  point,  was  about  $0.16,  so 
that  the  average  value  of  wool  per  nead  of  sheep  shorn  was  $1.17. 
No  allowance  is  here  made  for  the  cost  of  haulage  to  the  railroad, 
since  this  has  already  been  included  under  operating  costs. 

The  figures  usually  quoted  for  the  average  weight  of  the  clip  per 
head  and  the  average  price  of  wool  per  pound  in  Australia  are  not 
strictly  comparable  to  those  given  for  the  United  States.    The 


average  weight  of  the  fleece  of  a  mature  sheep  in  Australia  is  probably 
slightly  less  than  8  pounds,  but  lamb's  wool,  which  constitutes  about 
5  per  cent  of  the  total  clip,  is  included  with  the  clip  of  the  mature  sheep, 
making  the  average  clip  per  head  of  all  sheep  and  lambs  shorn  about 
7J  pounds. 

Whereas  in  the  United  States  one  price  is  quoted  for  the  entire 
fleece,  in  Australia  the  wool  is  carefully  sorted  and  the  best  part — the 
'* fleece" — is  baled  and  sold  separately  and  the  price  usually  quoted 
is  that  of  this  superior  wool,  which,  under  the  most  favorable  con- 
ditions, probably  constitutes  not  more  than  80  per  cent  and  on  an 
average  probably  from  60  to  70  per  cent  of  the  total  clip.  Of  the  part 
removed  from  the  "fleece,"  known  as  the  "skirtings,"  a  portion, 
constituting  about  10  per  cent  of  the  entire  clip,  is  scoured,  and  this 
scoured  wool  is  often  included  with  the  unscoured  in  the  export 
statistics  of  Australian  wool. 

In  Australia  the  average  price  per  pound  net  to  the  grower  is 
estimated  at  about  $0.18,  making  the  average  price  per  head  of  sheep 
and  lambs  shorn  $1.31.  The  cost  of  haulage  and  railway  freights 
are  included  in  operating  expenses. 

In  South  America  the  average  weight  of  the  clip  per  head  is  about 
7i  pounds,  and  the  average  price  per  pound,  delivered  at  the  sea- 
board, is  about  $0.17,  so  that  the  average  receipts  from  wool  per 
head  of  sheep  shorn  are  about  $1.28.  Haulage  charges  are  included 
under  operating  costs. 

The  average  expense  per  head  of  sheep  is  about  $2.11  in  our 
western  flocks,  about  $0.93  in  Australia,  and  about  $1.15  in  South 
America.  Hence,  if  the  only  receipts  were  those  from  wool,  the  cost 
of  wool  would  be  about  $0.29  in  the  United  States,  and  as  the  aver- 
age selling  price  is  about  $0.16,  there  would  be  a  loss  of  about  $0.13 
per  pound;  in  Australia  the  cost  of  wool  would  be  approximately 
$0.13,  and  as  the  average  selling  price  is  about  $0.18,  there  would 
be  a  profit  of  about  $0.05  per  pound;  and  in  South  America  the  cost 
of  wool  would  be  approximately  $0.15,  and  as  the  average  selling 
price  is  about  $0.17,  there  would  be  a  profit  of  about  $0.02  per  pound; 
and  since,  in  the  Western  States,  the  capital  per  head  of  sheep  is 
approximately  $5.30,  there  would  be  a  loss  of  about  2.5  per  cent  on 
the  capital  invested;  in  Australia,  on  the  basis  of  a  capital  invest- 
ment of  approximately  $6.07  per  head,  there  would  be  a  gain  of 
eight-tenths  of  1  per  cent;  and  in  South  America,  with  a  capital 
investment  of  $4  per  head,  there  would  be  a  gain  of  five-tenths  of 
1  per  cent. 

MUTTON   AN   IMPORTANT  FACTOR. 

These  figures  indicate  that  under  present  conditions  sheep  raising 
can  not  be  profitably  carried  on  for  the  sake  of  the  wool  alone;  and 
that  if  the  industry  is  to  prosper,  the  receipts  from  mutton  must 
cover  a  large  part  of  the  costs.  The  loss  incurred  in  exclusive  wool 
production  is  the  result  of  two  causes:  (1)  The  gradual  encroach- 
ment of  agriculture  on  grazing  lands  and  the  consequent  great 
increase  m  the  costs  of  sheep  growing;  and  (2)  the  gradual  decline 
of  wool  values. 

The  decline  in  the  profits  of  wool  production  has,  however,  been 
accompanied  by  an  increase  in  the  demand  for  mutton,  resulting 
from  the  fact  that  the  production  of  pork  and  beef  has  not  kept  pace 


844  RBPOBT  OF  TABrfP  BOAED  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 

with  the  growth  of  population.  And  at  the  same  time  the  develop- 
ment of  refrigerating  facilities  has  made  it  possible  for  the  flock 
owners  of  countries  which,  like  Australia  and  South  America,  are 
far  from  the  centers  of  population,  to  market  their  mutton. 

The  extent  of  the  increase  in  mutton  consumotion  is  mdicated  by 
the  statistics  of  receipts  of  sheep,  cattle,  and  hogs  m  the  Chicago 
stockyards  during  the  last  40  years.  In  1870  there  were  received, 
in  round  numbers,  350,000  sheep,  533,000  cattle,  and  1,690,000  hogs; 
in  1880,  336,000  sheep,  1,382,000  cattle,  and  7,060,000  hogs;  in  1890, 
2,180,000  sheep,  3,484,000  cattle,  and  7,660,000  hogs;  in  1900, 
3  550,000  sheep,  2,729,000  cattle,  and  8,109,000  hogs;  and  m  1910, 
5  229,000  sheep,  3,053,000  cattle,  and  5,587,000  hogs;  and  it  is^esti- 
mated  that  in  1911  there  will  have  been  received  5,668,000  sheep, 
2,920,000  cattle,  and  7,031,000  hogs.  The  receipts  of  cattle  reached 
a  maximum  m  1892  and  since  then  have  gradually  declined.  Ihe 
receipts  of  hogs  reached  a  maximum  in  1898  and  have  undergone  a 
sharp  decline  since  that  year.  But  the  number  of  sheep  received 
has  constantly  and  rapidly  increased,  havmg  passed  the  receipts  from 
cattle  in  1894  and  being,  at  the  present  time,  almost  equal  to  the 
receipts  of  hogs.     These  figures  are  embodied  m  the  foUowmg  table: 


Sheep 
Cattle 
Hogs. 


1«70 


350,000 

533,000 

1,690,000 


1880 


336,000 
1,382,000 
7,060,000 


1890 


2,180,000 
3,484,000 
7,660,000 


1900 


3.550,000 
2,729,000 
8,109,000 


1910 


5,229,000 
3,053,000 
6,587,000 


1911 
(efltlmated). 


5,668,000 
2,920,000 
7,031,000 


This  movement  is  shown  somewhat  more  in  detail  by  the  chart 
which  will  be  found  on  page  345. 

But  these  figures  do  not  fully  mdicate  the  mcrease  in  the  receipts 
of  mutton  as  compared  with  those  of  beef  and  pork,  smce  the  average 
weight  of  sheep  has  been  increasing,  while  that  of  cattle  and  hogs 

respectively  has  declined.  ,     .    ^i.    tt  -x  j  c*  * 

The  annual  consumption  of  sheep  and  lambs  m  the  United  btates 
at  the  present  time  is  thought  to  he  about  17,000  000  head,  repre- 
senting a  total  weight  of  about  630,000^000  pounds.  The  average 
weight  of  the  lambs  marketed  at  Chicago  is  about  70  pounds  and  that 
of  mature  sheep  about  100  pounds,  and  they  dress  about  50  per  cent 
and  48  per  cent,  respectively.  The  important  place  which  mutton 
holds  to-day  among  meats  is  further  shown  by  the  fact  that  m  the 
vear  1910  Great  Britain  imported,  principally  from  Australia  and 
South  America,  589,000,000  pounds  of  refngerated  mutton  and 
16,832,704  pounds  of  preserved  mutton,  makmg  a  total  of  605,8^-^,704 

^^The  receipts  from  other  sources  amount  approximately  on  an  aver- 
age per  head  to  $1.39  in  the  Western  States,  $0.93  in  Australia,  and 
3^.84  in  South  America,  and  constitute  approxmiately  m  the  United 
States  54.3  per  cent,  in  Australia  41.3  per  cent,  and  m  South  America 
39.6  per  cent  of  the  total  receipts.  And  they  cover  approxmiately 
in  the  United  States  65.9  per  cent,  in  Austraha  98.9  per  cent,  and  m 
South  America  73  per  cent  of  the  total  costs.      ,    .     ,  .        ^,        . 

That  receipts  from  other  sources  are  largely  derived  from  the  sale 
of  mutton  is  attributable  to  the  fact  that  for  some  years  the  sheep 


BEPORT  OP  TABIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


345 


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346 


BBPOBT  OF  TABTFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDT7LE  K. 


industry  of  our  western  region  has  not  been  expanding;  indeed,  dur- 
Sg^ast  18  months  fc  has  been  a  sharp  ^^^^^fj^^^^'^l 
number  of  sheep.  A  laree  percentage,  rangmg  normally  from  70  per 
^^  to  80  per  ^nt,  of  the  sheep  annuaUy  placed  on  the  market  are 
kmbs  Wuse  it  d<ies  not  ordinarily  pay  to  run  wethers  for  their  wool, 
an^  the^wer  retains  only  enough  lambs  to  replace  the  unserviceable 
^t  whfch  he  annuaUy  cui  from  his  flock,    "^e  ?"««  f.  "^"t^'^J'^^ 

varied  but  slightly  for  a  number  of  y^^^^.f  «^Xr!Jo  maS  frSI 
table,  which  gives  the  average  prices  paid  m  the  Chicago  martet  :rom 

1907  to  1911,  inclusive. 

Average  prices  per  pmmdfor  wether,,  tamh,,a«d  OBet  in  the  Chicago  nvarket  /ram  1907 


Wethers. 
Lambs.. 
Ewes — 


1907 


$5.74 
7.19 
6.19 


1906 


15.14. 
6.11 
4.88 


1909 


15.58 
7.34 
5.04 


1910 


5.46 
7.66 
6.19 


1911 


14.22 

6.00 
3.75 


The  declines  shown  in  1911  are  attnbuted  to  ^e^^.  ^^f  ^^^^^^^^^^ 
on  the  part  of  western  growers.  It  would  appear  that  in  noraaali 
times  tile  annual  receipts  from  mutton  have  ^^"^^^"J^^^tl^.;^^^^^^^ 
during  this  period;  but  unless  there  is  some  marked  change  m  condi- 
S no  material  increase  of  this  amount  is  to  be  expected  m  normal! 

^T Austraha  the  receipts  from  mutton  constitute  a  much  sm^^^^^^^ 
proportion  of  the  receipts  from  other  sources.  This  is  partly  due 
toXe  fact  that  the  great  sheep  runs  of  the  mtenor  are  unfavorably 
sLated  as  regards  marketing  but  in  a  larger  measure  to  the  fact 
that  these  groleiB  place  greater  emphasis  on  the  production  of  wool 
than  on  ttat  of  mutton  and  run  their  flocks  accordingly,  as  ev-j 
denced  by  their  custom  of  keeping  large  numbers  of  wethers  for  theu-| 
wool     In  New  South  Wales,  fo?  example,  wethers  constitute  over! 

'"sinf  tt  tt^^^^^^  has  been  an  enonnous  expansion  | 

of  the'lustraha/flock  industry,  and  this  ^^V^^'Zf  ^^'\f^fZ^^ 
While  the  development  of  agriculture  has  encroached  on  the  grazing 
lands!  the  farmei  have,  on  the  other  hand,  taken  up  sheep  racing, 
and  ks  a  result  of  the  opening  up  of  new  regions  through  the  exten- 
sbn  ^f  tr^portation  Mties  the  industiy  has  pushed  into  the 
Tterior.  tS  expansion  of  the  industnr  has  created  a  fong  demand 
tostocksheep;  andtheretums  from  t£e  sales  ^^^^P^^f  ^^?;^ff.^^ 
with  the  value  of  those  retained  in  the  flock,  constitute  alarge  item 
of  the  total  receipts  from  other  sources.  This  explains  whv,  at 
?he  present  timef  Austraha  most  of  the  ^^/^^  «^^^^^^ 
discarded  ewes  and  wethers  and  cuUed  lambs.  In  New  bouth  \\  ales, 
foTexample,  in  1909,  about  6,000,000  mature  sheep  and  about 
430,000  lambs  were  slaughtered.  ,  ^  u  w,^^^  ^T«r.l.flflm 

ik  the  agricultural  regions  near  the  coast  much  more  emphasis 
is  placed  ofmutton,  but  of  Australia    as  ^  .^}'f;^'\f'r^^^^^ 
should  the  industiy  cease  to  exnand  the  receipts  from  other  bo^^^^ 
would  be  veiT  seriously  reduced  and  the  loss  could  be  repaired  only 
brdeve^^^^^    the  mutton  side  of  the  industry,  which  would  mvolve 
modifications  of  the  flock  and  the  finding  of  a  market. 


BEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


847 


Both  the  AustraUan  and  the  South  American  growers  have  a 
marked  advantage  over  those  of  the  Western  United  States  in  that, 
owing  to  their  superior  range  conditions,  especially  the  abundance 
of  excellent  natural  grasses,  they  are  able  to  send  their  sheep  fat  to 
the  market  without  feeding. 

South  America  is  especially  well  adapted  to  the  production  of  mut- 
ton and  has  developed  an  excellent  type  of  crossbred  sheep.  But 
inadequate  transportation  and  refrigeration  have  hitherto  linuted  the 
profitable  marketing  of  the  surplus  sheep;  and  since,  as  the  industry 
13  scarcelv  holding  its  own  in  that  continent,  there  is  no  strong 
demand  for  stock  sheep,  the  grower  is  not  always  able  to  dispose 
advantageously  of  his  surplus.  Facilities  for  transportation  and 
refrigeration  are,  however,  constantlv  improving,  and  it  is  probable 
that  the  receipts  from  mutton  wiU  come  to  constitute  a  much 
higher  percentage  than  at  present  of  the  total  receipts. 

The  growing  importance  of  mutton  has  led  to  the  extensive  dis- 
placement of  the  small  merino  in  South  America,  New  Zealand,  and 
eke  where  by  the  English  breeds,  such  as  the  Komney  and  the  Lin- 
coln, which  produce  a  large  carcass  of  excellent  mutton  and  a  heavy 
fleece  of  coarse  combing  wool.     The  objections  to  these  sheep  are 

(1)  that  despite  the  improvements  in  manufacture  their  wool  is  not 
adapted  to  meet  the  prevailing  demand  for  clotlis  made  of  fine  wool; 

(2)  that  they  are  not  hardy  enough  to  thrive  under  the  severe  range 
conditions  under  which  flock  industry  must,  for  the  most  part,  be 
carried  on;  and  (3)  that  since  they  can  not  be  successfully  herded  in 
large  flocks  and  since  their  fleeces  are  easily  torn  by  bushes,  etc.,  they 
are  especially  unfitted  to  Uve  under  the  peculiar  range  conditions 
of  the  united  States. 

The  increased  emphasis  on  mutton  has  also  resulted  in  the  devel- 
opment, by  skillful  manipulation  of  merino  bloods,  of  a  large-bodied 
French  sheep — the  Rambouillet;  of  various  useful  tvpes  which 
have  been  originated  in  the  United  States,  and  of  the  large-bodied 
merino  in  Austraha,  which  produce  the  characteristic  mermo  fleece 
and  lambs  and  mutton  of  good  quahty.  The  development  of  this 
class  of  sheep  represents  a  distinct  advance  in  flock  husbandry  and 
has  given  the  incfiistry  a  new  lease  of  life  in  many  regions. 

But  it  has  been  found  that  the  largest  returns  can  be  obtained  by 
means  of  the  crossing  of  the  wool  and  mutton  breeds.  The  progeny 
of  such  a  cross  gives  a  large  carcass  of  superior  mutton  and  a  fleece  of 
sufficient  fineness  to  meet  the  demands  of  the  manufacturer.  But 
since  further  crossing  toward  the  mutton' form  unfits  the  sheep  for 
harsh  range  conditions  and  results  in  deterioration  of  the  quahty  of 
the  wool,  there  must  be  a  constant  return  to  the  wool  type.  That  is 
to  say,  the  predominant  blood  in  range  sheep  must  be  mermo.  Hence 
the  lambs  are  usually  sold  off  for  mutton  and  the  breeding  ewes  are 
kept,  for  their  lambs  and  their  wool,  as  long  as  they  are  serviceable, 
and  are  then  replaced.  If,  therefore,  the  flock  owner  is  not  in  a  posi- 
tion to  maintain  a  merino  flock  from  which  to  renew  his  commercial 
flock,  he  must  resort  to  purchase.  Hence,  there  is  a  constant  move- 
ment of  sheep  from  one  re^on  to  another.  In  much  of  our  south- 
western grazing  country  omy  the  hardy  merino  can  thrive,  and  the 
supply  of  ewes  of  this  region  is  largely  drawn  on  by  the  northern  flock 
owners  and  the  farmers  of  the  corn  belt. 


S48 


BEPORT  OP  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


BEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


849 


This  intimate  connection  between  the  flock  owner  of  the  SonthwMf 
and  the  farmer  of  the  com  belt  is  exceedinXKS     The 

1  3  w'^lhiVr'f  ,"'*'™"*f  °  *yP1  «^  ^^P'^  «°^bled  to  make 
a  prolit  by  the  saJe  of  his  surplus  stock,  while  the  latter  who   bv 

virtae  of  his  smaU  flocks  and  abundant  f  eei,  is  peculiarly  well  StuitS 

difClftorSse"hk'„'l  f»>°V°^^  topar^itic  dis^ales  Sh 
thrflpm»n-i=  f  *r  °^  breeding  ewes,  is  m  turn  enabled  to  meet 
the  demands  of  the  market  for  both  wool  and  mutton. 

in  Australia  a  similar  connection  exists  between  the  OTowera  of 
'"Th?ff^lfP  !f^*^"  flock  owners  who  lay  stress  on  mutt^ 
tRjnin.,  r=\i^*'"'*T  **'  T?^  country  must  bear  the  burden  of  main- 
taming  Its  mermo  foundation  and  there  is  a  decided  limit  to  iSe 
po^ibTe  mcrease  of  the  receipts  from  mutton,  by 'WW-"  i  p 
If  the  process  is  carried  bevond  a  certain  point  the  consequent'deteri- 
oration  of  the  ouality  of  tte  wool  and  uniting  of  tChlep  for  thSr 

^d  Son*  ^^  *''°"'  *  ''"'''"^  ^  *^"  production  of  tt  wool 

thJwIfri^'i?/*"*  rfiows  the  importance  of  the  merino  blood  in 
.•„  *!,  fl  r°  S^'^tes,  as  indicated  by  the  statistics  of  the  breeds  in  use 
in  the  flocks  covered  by  our  schedules:  "J«eu8  m  use 


Arizona 

CaJafomia 

Colorado 

Idaho 

Montana 

Nevada 

New  Mexico 

Oregon 

Utah 

Washinjjton.. 

Wyoming 


The  importance  of  the  merino  blood  in  the  trhree  crreat  wool. 
Foducmg  States  of  AustraHa  is  indicated  by  the  foUowinri^rlent 

In  New  South  Wales  about  85  ner  cent  of  the  rams  and  90  per  cent 
of  the  ewes  are  pure  meripos.     6f  the  remaining  sheep  whfie  some 

crossbred  with  a  menno  foundation,     f n  Victoria,  which  is  tL  chief 
muttpn-producing  district  of  Australia,  84  per  cent  of  all  the  ^^^ 

m  Queensland  96  per  cent  of  the  sheep  are  pure  merinos. 

COSTS  m  NEW  ZEALAND. 

fhl^  ?!®T  ^^^^"^  ^^?  ^^e^^e  costs  of  flock  husbandry  are  higher 
than  m  Austraha,  owing  to  the  fact  that  the  industiy  is  partiX 

^imo^li^rT"'^^^  ^>^  Pr^  agriculture,  andThe  sEeep  ^I 
run  upon  lands  of  comparatively  high  value 

U.JL  l^^^^f.^l®  ^f  the  climatic  conditions  of  New  Zealand  that,  while 
large  quantities  of  special  crops  are  grown  for  sheep,  no  winter  fe^in| 


ifl  necessary.  For  this  reason  and  as  a  result  of  the  exceUent  natural 
S-asses  and  the  system  of  rotation  employed,  the  forage  costs,  on  an 
fverage  for  New  Zealand  as  a  whole,  though  much  ^ig^er  tha,n  m 
Australia,  are  lower  than  in  the  western  Umted  Stat^  and  about  the 
same  as  in  South  America.  .  r,    i     j  xi,„„  :« 

The  average  miscellaneous  costs  are  lower  m  New  Zealand  than  m 
Australia.  Although  the  New  Zealand  flocks  are  somewhat  more  sub- 
iect  to  disease,  the  losses  from  this  cause  are  kept  at  a  low  level  by 
careful  flock  husbandry;  and  owing  to  the  equable  climate,  the  losses 
from  other  causes  are  also  low.  Haulage  and  freight  charges  are 
much  lower  than  in  Australia,  on  account  of  the  shorter  distances  to 
the  markets,  and  in  consequence  of  the  stress  laid  on  mutton  and  of 
a  system  of  management  by  which  mature  sheep  are  culled  from  the 
flock  whUe  still  fit  for  good  mutton,  the  rate  of  depreciation  on  the 

^Th^aveSgr  total  receipts  from  the  flock  are  hiffher  in  New  Zealand 
than  in  Australia,  and  the  same  statement  holds  good  of  both  the 
receipts  from  wool  and  the  receipts  from  other  sources.  While  in 
Austraha  the  predominant  type  of  sheep  is  the  menno  m  New  Zea- 
land the  greater  emphasis  is  placed  on  mutton,  and  most  of  the  sheep 
are  crossbreds.  But  owing  to  the  exceedingly  favorable  climate,  the 
average  fleece  is  not  only  considerably  larger  than  m  Austraha,  but 
also  of  such  a  quaUty  that  the  average  price  received  for  the  wool  of 
these  sheep  is  not  greatly  below  that  of  the  Australian  merino.  It  is 
probable  that  the  average  price  for  all  the  New  Zealand  wool  is  higher 
than  the  average  price  for  all  the  Australian  wool.  Moreover,  the  rate 
of  increase  is  considerably  higher,  the  difference  amounting,  accordmg 
to  some  authorities,  to  20  per  cent.  ,.     .       .       i 

Owing  to  the  type  of  sheep  kept,  to  the  excellent  natural  grassy, 
and  to  Uie  extensive  growing  of  special  crops  for  fattemng  sheep,  the 
mutton  of  New  Zealand  surpasses  that  of  Austraha  both  m  quantity 
per  head  of  sheep  and  in  quality. 

The  average  receipts  from  other  sources  are  therefore  so  much 
higher  as  to  leave  Httle  room  for  doubt  that  despite  the  considerably 
higher  costs  of  production,  these  receipts  cover  all  expense;  so  that 
under  favorable  conditions  there  should  be  Httle,  it  any,  charge 
against  wool. 

COMPARATIVE    COSTS   SUMMARIZED. 

It  now  becomes  possible  to  make  a  reasonably  close  comparison 
as  to  the  relative  positions  of  the  flock  owners  of  the  Western  States 
and  those  of  the  chief  competing  countries.  The  conclusion  can  not 
be  escaped  that  our  western  growers  are  operatmg  under  substan- 
tially higher  costs  than  their  South  American  competitors  and  that 
the  average  net  charge  against  the  great  wool  clips  of  Austraha  and 
New  Zealand  under  prevailing  prices  for  stock  sheep  is  near  the 
vanishing  point.  .  .    , 

The  average  receipts  per  head  in  the  case  of  the  operations  studied 
m  detail  by  our  agents  in  the  Western  States  is  found  to  be  $2.56. 
While  we  can  not  undertake  to  name  with  equal  confidence  the  cor- 
responding figure  for  Australia,  it  is  perfectly  plain  that  a  return  of 
about  $2.20  per  head  is  common  in  that  country  at  this  time  and 
that  in  South  America  the  receipts  average  about  $2.10  per  head. 
The  American  return  of  $2.56,  less  $2.11  operating  costs,  leaves  aa 


850 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDTJL.E  K. 


351 


w 


the  net  American  receipts  45  cents  per  head  per  annum.  The  Aus- 
traUan  figure  quoted  above,  less  the  operatmg  costs,  which  have  been 
estimated  at  about  95  cents,  leaves  as  the  possible  net  return  of 
the  more  fortunately  situated  Austrahan  grower  $1.25  per  head  per 
annum.  In  South  America,  with  an  average  expense  of  about  $1.15 
per  head,  the  countries  investigated  mdicate  a  return  of  97  cents 

per  head  per  annum.  ,     ,      .      ,  j.-        c     u+«„«f;«« 

^  There  remains,  therefore,  only  the  smiple  operation  of  subtractmg 
from  the  flock  expenses  the  receipts  from  other  sources  than  wool, 
to  reveal  the  fact  that  as  against  a  clearly  demonstrated  f^t  charge 
against  the  western  American  wool  of  from  10  to  11  cents,  there  la 
probably  not  more  than  4  to  5  cents  per  pound  against  the  bouth 
American  chp;  and,  if  the  season  is  normal  and  the  sheep  market 
steady,  Uttle;  if  any,  charge  against  ^he  Austrahan.  Indeed  weU 
managed  stations  in  many  parts  of  Australia  are  showing  at  the 
present  time  a  profit  before  any  wools  are  sold.  It  is  not  safe  to 
assume,  however,  that  the  more  remote  runs  are  domg  so  well,  and 
there  is  always  the  possibihty  of  paralyzing  droughts. 

An  agent  of  the  board,  whose  extended  report  on  general  Aus- 
tralian conditions  is  filed  herewith,  says,  touching  this  pomt: 

Th«  flock  owners  whose  sales  of  surplus  stock  yield,  in  normal  years,  an  income 
sufficient  to  paTth^  worSng  expenseeS  their  nms'are  mostly  occupiers  of  land  within 
300  miles  of  a  port. 

A  leadmg  grower  gave  an  agent  of  the  board  figures  from  a  rm  m  the 
low  rainfall  district-known  a^  ^drv  country^-m  New  South  W^^^^ 
about  290  mUes  from  Sydney  marW.  He  kept  50,000  sheep  and 
sold  a  mixed  lot  of  8,000  every  year  at  an  average  pnce  of  6s.  per  Head. 
His  return  from  this  surplus  wa^  therefore  £2,400  per  year,  a  sum  suf- 
ficient  to  cover  about  two-thirds  of  his  workm^  expenses.  fc>mce  he 
had  this  experience,  several  years  ago,  the  market  price  of  sheep  has 
advanced  L  a  result  of  the  increased  exports  of  frozen  mutton. 
-But  remember,''  he  remarks,  -that  such  %«8  ^^^^/^^f^J^^ 
years  of  normal  rainfall.  Even  a  small  drought  m  that  district  would 
leave  the  sheep  in  too  poor  a  condition  for  the  market. 

This  qualification  is  generaUy  applicable  to  the  stock  trade  m  all 
of  the  larger  sheep  distficts  of  Australia.  Statements  similar  to  the 
above  are  made  by  two  other  prominent  owners  with  regard  to  returns 
from  surplus  stoct  in  Queensland  and  Western  Aus^j;«l^*^%  -^"/^^^^^^ 
say  that  in  good  years,  and  on  well-managed  runs,  the  sales  of  sheep 
&  enough  to  pay  workmg  expenses  One  of  these  anticipates 
that  m  view  of  the  increasmg  exports  of  Australian  mutton  and  lamb, 
the  surplus  station  stock  wiS  in  future  years  give  an  annual  return 
considerably  in  excess  of  the  amount  of  the  workm^  expenses-- 
^^Xg  that  no  large  addition  is  made  to  the  cost  of  labor  m  the 

"^iTS  Hght,  therefore,  of  the  best  mformation  to  be  obtamed,  the 
board  believes  that  at  the  present  time  the  enth-e  Australian  output 
5f  mer^o  and  crossbred  wool  (interest  being  left  out  of  account,  as 
S  the^e  of  the  United  States)  is  moving  to  market,  under  present 
receipts  from  sales  of  sheep,  with  a  net  average  charge  of  but  a  few 
cents  per  pound;  and  this  estimate  apparently  holds  good  of  New 
Zealand  and  the  African  Cape  as  well. 


RAIL   AND   OCEAN   FREIGHTS   ON   RAW   WOOLS. 

A  very  appreciable  element  in  the  cost  of  wool  in  the  United  States 
grows  out  of  the  great  distance  separating  the  chief  producers  from  the 
important  centers  of  the  cloth  industry.  The  amount  of  wool  that 
is  scoured  before  being  shipped  is  negligible;  therefore,  though  the 
railroads  quote  rates  for  scoured  wool  they  are  of  little  practical  im- 
portance, and  it  is  the  rate  on  greasy  wool  that  concerns  the  industry. 

The  accompanying  diagram,  based  so  far  as  United  States  rail 
freights  are  concerned  upon  a  chart  prepared  by  Mr.  John  T.  Mar- 
chand  for  the  Interstate  Commerce  Commission,  gives  at  a  glance 
the  cost  of  shipping  wool  in  the  grease  to  Boston.  It  shows  that  from 
the  Pacific  coast  terminals  the  rate  is  $1  on  a  hundred  pounds,  and 
that  from  other  points  the  rate  is  made  by  various  combinations. 
From  the  interior  the  rate  ranges  from  $1.72  J  at  Colorado  common 
points  to  $2.13,  the  latter  rate  prevailing  at  the  great  majority  of  the 
points  from  which  wool  is  sliipped;  $2  a  hundred  pounds  is  believed 
to  be  a  fair  estimate  for  the  average  cost  of  transportation  of  grease 
wool  from  the  West  to  Boston. 

Two  elements  enter  into  the  cost  of  transportation  of  foreign  wool 
landed  in  the  United  States:  First,  the  rate  from  the  interior  to  the 
seaboard ;  second,  the  ocean  rate  to  America. 

In  Australia  the  rate  on  grease  wool  to  the  seaboard  varies  greatly 
in  the  different  Provinces,  as  is  shown  by  the  following  statement 
prepared  in  terms  of  American  money  by  an  agent  of  the  Tariff  Board: 

NEW   SOUTH   WALES. 

Cents  per  100  lbs. 

190  miles $0.  52i 

336  miles 66| 

460  miles 73 

464  miles 73J 

608  miles 75^ 

VICTORIA. 

Cents  p»  100  lbs. 

150  miles $0.46| 

200  miles 53i 

250  miles 60* 

300  miles 671 

400  miles 80| 

SOUTH   AUSTRALIA. 

Cents  per  100  lbs. 

150  miles $0. 47i 

200  miles ,. 6l| 

300  miles 85f 

400  miles 1,  07| 

500  miles 1.  26f 

WESTERN  AUSTRALIA. 

Cents  per  100  lbs. 

225  miles $0.  7l§ 

330  miles 9o| 

400  miles 1. 12f 

600  miles i.48| 


852 


REPOBT  OF  TAIOTT  BOABD  OH  SCHEDULE  K. 


Quotations  of  rates  on  grease  wool  in  Queensland  are  lacking,  but 
the  rate  on  scoured  wool  is  much  higher  than  in  the  other  Provinces. 

With  rates  varying  so  widely,  it  is  impossible  to  do  more  than 
approximate  the  average  cost  of  transpoytmg  the  Australian  clip  to 
the  seaboard.  The  most  that  can  be  said  is  that  an  estimate  of  90 
cents  per  hundred  would  probably  not  be  far  from  right,  from  shearing 
pens  to  dock,  or  an  average  of  between  65  and  70  cents  per  100 
pounds  for  the  railroad  rate  to  dock,  allowing  about  20  or  25  cents 
per  100  pounds  for  wagon  haul  from  pens  to  railroad  platform. 

Little  wool  comes  to  this  country  direct  from  Australia.  For  such 
as  did  come  direct  during  1909-1911,  the  rates  from  Melbourne  and 
Sydney  were  from  $1.37i  to  $1.70i,  which  would  make  the  cost  of 
transportation  from  the  Australian  producer  to  Boston  range  be- 
tween $1.84 J  and  $3,191,  with  a  probable  average  of  between  $2 
and  $2.50. 

Most  of  the  Australian  wool  consumed  in  this  country  comes  via 
London,  and  the  rates  over  this  route  have  fluctuated  widely. 
Thus  Dalgety's  Wool  Review  reports  the  average  rate  from  Australia 
to  European  ports  during  the  busy  season  of  1908-9  as  50  cents  a 
hundred^ pounds;  in  1909  the  rate  varied  between  $1  and  $1.25  a 
hundred,  and  in  1910  between  50  cents  and  $1.50. 

From  English  ports  in  former  years  rates  were  subject  to  frequent 
fluctuations,  and  have  been  as  low  as  5  shillings  a  ton,  but  in  the 
recent  past  there  have  been  fewer  cuts.  During  the  years  1904-1 907, 
inclusive,  the  average  rate  from  London  paid  by  an  important  Ameri- 
can consumer  was  24  cents  a  hundred  pounds  plus  10  shillings  a  ton 
''shipping  charges."  Since  then  the  ''shipping  charges^'  have 
remained  the  same,  while  the  average  rate  for  four  years  has  risen, 
according  to  the  books  of  the  same  consumer,  to  30  cents  a  hundred. 
The  rate  quoted  bv  the  White  Star  Line  in  October,  1911,  on  greasy 
wool  in  heavy  bales  was  30  shillings  per  long  ton  plus  5  per  cent 
primage;  but  the  records  of  the  port  of  New  York  sliow  that  during 
the  year  enduig  June  30,  1911,  that  line  landed  in  New  York  from 
England  3,497,424  pounds,  at  an  average  rate  of  15  shilling  per  ton. 
When  to  the  rates  from  Australia  to  London  and  from  London  to 
Boston  are  added  certain  payments  for  transshipment,  net  delivery, 
railage,  stamp  duties,  and  other  items,  it  appears  that  the  cost  of 
transportation  over  this  route  approximates  tne  cost  over  the  direct 
route  from  Melbourne  to  Sydney. 

From  some  South  American  points  the  direct  ocean  rates  on  wool 
are  relatively  few.  Steamship  agents  quote  $2  to  $2.50  per  ton  of 
40  cubic  feet  from  Buenos  Aires.  South  American  wool  is  packed  in 
bales  of  35  to  40  cubic  feet,  weighing  1,100  to  1,300  pounds.  The 
rate,  therefore,  ranges  from  Hi  to  23i  cents  a  hundred  pounds.  The 
costs  of  transportation  in  the  ulterior  of  South  America  vary  within 
wide  limits.  Wool  reaches  Buenos  Aires  from  points  on  the  Rio 
Uruguay  at  a  little  more  than  22  cents  a  hundred,  while  the  trans- 
portation thither  by  rail  from  Neu^en  costs  over  $1  a  hundred. 
Quotations  from  18  other  interior  pomts  show  an  average  rate  of  50 
cents.  Further  south  the  rates  are  very  uncertain.  From  the 
interior  of  the  Territory  of  Chubut,  Argentina,  the  agent  of  the  Tariff 
Board  found  that  woof  had  to  be  hauled  to  the  coast  by  ox  teams,  at 
a  cost  of  from  $3  to  $7  a  hundredweight. 


fttGLMftO. 


DIAGRAM   SHOWING  FREIGHTS  ON  GREASE  WOOL,  BY  SEA  AND  RAILROAD.  TO  BOSTON.  MASS. 

[Compiled  from  data  from  Interstute  Conmierce  Commission  and  other  sources.    Mileaga  on  coast  terminals  based  upon  coast  points.    Others  on  capitals  of  States.    El  Paso  and  Fort  Worth,  Tex.,  actual  distances.    All  rates  quoted  are 

based  upon  100-i>ound  shipments.] 


BEPOET  OF  TABIFF  BOAED  ON   SCHEDtrL.E  K. 


353 


The  accompanying  diagram  shows  raU  and  ocean  freights  on  raw 
wools. 

WOOLGKOWING  IN   THE   EASTERN  UNITED  STATES. 

For  the  purpose  of  this  investigation  the  region  east  of  the  Missis- 
sippi Rive?  ^regarded  as  comisting  of  three  parts-the  upper 
XWppi  Valley;  the  region  which  adjoins  this  on  the  east, with  the 
KoTShio  as  Its  centir;  and  the  Atlantic  coast  region,  including 
New  England  and  the  highlands  of  certain  Southern  States. 

In  theSlississippi  Valfey  there  is  not  much  waste  land  and  com- 
parativelv  httle  permanent  pasture,  most  of  the  land  bemg  cropped  m 
LtS  Hence,  gracing  is^not  forced  upon  the  farmers  by  naturd 
SndWons  ^d  c'al  be  carried  on  only  \n  sharp  competition  with 

^'inthe'^S  Ohio  Valley,  however,  there  is  a  considerable  percent- 
age of  roiXland  not  so  weU  adapted  to  tillage,  which  the  owners 
Kally  SfeX  keep  under  grass.  Here,  therefore,  sheep  raising 
h^to  c^oSte  for  the^most.plrt  not  with  g«««'-'^»  ^^'^^"^ti* 
with  other  lorms  of  stock  raising.  In  vanous  parts  of  this  re^on, 
^g  t^  the  difficulty  of  gro^g  harvested  crops,  some  form  of 

pastoral  husbandry  seems  a  necessity.  tt^;*.^  ^t«fp«   fhn 

Tr.  ttio  Piirlipr  davs  of  sheep  growing  m  the  United  btates,  tne 
JusS  wa^^l^^^^^^^^^  £-t,    The-fertne  tossrpm 

Valley  was  and  still  is  mainly  devoted  to  gram  growmg,  and  the  feed- 
CT  battle  and  hogs,  butVith  the  gro^^K^?^^^^^^  ?^P"iSi 
^ep  raising  became  more  prominent  in  the  Middle  West  and  small 
foZ  w^iept  by  many  f a^rmers.    Merinos  were  largely  in  evidence 
at  one  time  in^dSerent^ections,  but  the  decHning  price  of  wool  and 
the  growmg  demand  for  mutton  led  to  the  general  introduction  of  the 
mutton  types  of  sheep.     Subsequent  experience,  however,  seems  to 
have  sho^that  sheep  carrying  some  merino  blood  are  Marcher  and 
better  adapted  to  ordinary  f armmg  conditions,  so  that  while  many 
pure-bred  mutton  flocks  are  to  be  found,  crossbred  sheep  are  the  rule. 
Even  a  greater  change  in  this  regard  has  taken  place  m  New  ii.ng- 
land  and  the  other  sheep-raising  sections  of  the  eastern  region  once 
noted  for  fine  merino  flocks.     Here  the  f  alhng  wool  pnces  and  growing 
demand  for  mutton,  together  with  proximity  to  good  lamb  mark^^^^^^^ 
inevitably  resulted  in  a  change  from  wool  to  mutton      This  was  for 
the  most  part  accomplished  by  replacmg  the  mennos  mth  sheep  of  the 
English  type,  and  while  there  has  been  some  crossbreeding  the  menno 
bl^d  plays  a  less  prominent  r6le  in  this  region  than  m  the  Mississippi 
VaUey.     So  strong  has  the  emphasis  on  mutton  become  among  the 
growers  of  the  Atlantic  States  that  "hot-house  lambs    and  the  grow- 
mg of  distinctively  mutton  sheep  has  replaced  woolgrowmg  m  dis- 
tricts once  famous  for  fine  fleeces.  v  i  .   -,  ^  :„ 
During  the  earUer  years  of  the  mdustry  there  was  shght  denaanci  m 
the  United  States  for  mutton,  whereas  fine  wools  were  m  high  favor 
and  sold  for  large  prices.     This  led  to  the  breedmg  of  the  famous 
American  merino,  for  the  sake  of  its  heavy  fleece  and  with  httle 
regard  to  fitness  of  the  carcass  for  mutton,  and  extraordinary  sheep 
were  produced.    There  are  recorded  examples  of  rams  that  sheared 
as  much  as  48  pounds  (probably  of  more  than  12  months  growtn)  of 
a  heavy-conditioned  wool  that  might  scour  no  more  than  25  per  cent 
to  30  per  cent  of  clean  wool.    The  ra^e  for  the  very  heavy  fleeces  waa 

32080°— H.  Doc.  342. 62-2.  vol  1 ^23 


S54 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


355 


intensified  by  the  fact  that  owing,  perhaps,  to  the  flocks  being  rather 
small  it  was  the  custom  of  wool  buyers  to  pay  a  nearly  uniform  price 
for  the  wool  clips  of  a  county.  ITiis  put  a  premium  on  heavy  wools 
and  placed  the  man  producmg  wools  of  light  shrinkage  at  a  disad- 
vantage. A  certain  amount  of  oil  is  necessary  to  a  strong  merino 
wool  Sber.  Breeders  no  doubt  overestimated  its  importance,  how- 
ever, and  there  were  yeaiB  when  Ohio  wools,  thougn  of  very  high 
quality,  were  of  heavier  shrink  than  was  desirable. 

In  the  Ohio  region,  while  the  depression  in  wool  prices  led  some 
growers  to  replace  their  small  merinos  with  sheep  of  tne  Enghsh  type 
Ind  these  eventuaUy  with  crossbred  sheep,  many,  however,  at- 
tempted  to  meet  the  situation  by  means  of  an  improved  merino  type 
of  steep.  This  led  to  the  introduction  of  the  French  Kamboumet 
and  the  development  from  our  own  small  merino,  of  the  Black  Top 
and  various  Delaine  types.  On  account  of  their  hardiness,  their 
apparently  greater  resistance  to  the  parasites  which  infest  permanent 
pastures  in  this  climate  and  their  ability  to  live  mainly  on  ordinary 
forage,  with  a  minimum  amount  of  the  more  expensive  harvested 
crops,  these  types  are  well  adapted  to  the  peculiar  conditions  of  the 
Ohio  region  as  a  whole  and  consequently  they  are  in  high  favor  among 
the  growers  of  this  section.  Another  mfluence  which  contributed  to 
produce  this  result  was  the  demand  from  the  West  for  merino  breed- 
ing stock.  The  improved  merinos  now  predominate  in  this  section, 
although  there  are  many  growers  scattered  through  the  region  who 
are  raising  crossbred  sheep  and  also  many  who  continue  to  Iteep  the 
smaller  merinos. 

The  paramount  importance  of  the  merino  m  this  region  is  indicated 
by  the  character  of  the  wool  produced  in  tile  State  of  Ohio,  and  in 
adjacent  sections  of  Pennsylvania  and  West  Vir^ia. 

In  the  "fine"  woolgrowing  section  of  Ohio,  which  is  the  more  hilly 
part  of  the  State,  comprising  most  of  the  eastern  portion  of  Coshoc- 
ton County,  the  southern  part  of  Tuscarawas  County,  JeflPerson, 
Harrison,  Carroll,  Guernsev,  Muskingum,  Noble,  Monroe,  Washing- 
ton, Morgan,  Athens,  and  Meigs  Counties,  the  number  of  sheep 
producing  "medium"  wool  has,  according  to  the  statements  of  leaa- 
mg  dealers,  steadily  decreased  during  the  last  10  years,  so  that  at 
the  present  time  it  is  said  that  not  more  than  5  per  cent  of  the  wool 
produced  in  this  section  grades  below  "fine  medium." 

In  the  "mixed"  section,  which  may  be  said  to  comprise  Medina, 
Wayne,  Holmes,  Coschocton,  Licking,  Fairfield,  Ferry,  Franklin. 
Delaware,  Knox,  Morrow,  Richland,  Marion,  Crawford,  Ashland, 
Huron,  Wyandot,  and  Union  Counties  (and  which  is  better  adapted 
for  general  agriculture  than  the  "fine"  section),  the  fine  wool  still 
makes  up  the  bulk  of  the  clip,  possibly  from  60  to  65  per  cent;  the 
rest  being  "medium." 

In  the  third  or  "medium"  section,  comprising  the  remaining  wool- 
growing  counties  of  the  State,  the  medium  wools  probably  constitute 
75  per  cent  of  the  total  chp. 

The  board's  investigation  was  mainly  confined  to  the  "fine"  and 
"mixed  "  sections  of  the  Ohio  region,  wliich  included  adjacent  parts  of 
Pennsylvania  and  West  Virginia,  and  certain  counties  of  southern 
Michigan.  The  results  clearly  differentiate  three  types  of  flocks: 
(1)  Crossbred  flocks  producing  a  good  medium  fleece  and  showing 
receipts  from  other  sources,  chiefly  mutton,  which  are  sufficient  or 


i 


nearly  sufficient  to  cover  the  cost  of  maintaining  the  flock;  (2)  pure- 
bred or  high  grade  flocks  of  improved  merinos,  producing  a  somewhat 
heavier  chp  of  superior  wool  and  showing  receipts  from  other  sources 
which,  although  usually  not  sufficient  to  cover  the  costs  of  mainte- 
nance, are  in  many  cases  large  enough  to  afford  the  grower  a  fair  profit, 
and  (3)  flocks  that  produce  a  lighter  fleece  and  show  receipts  from 
other  sources  which  are  far  from  sufficient  to  cover  the  costs  of 
maintenance;  so  that  as  the  receipts  from  wool  are  not  large  enough 
to  cover  the  flock  expense,  the  industry  seems  to  be  carried  on  either 
at  a  very  narrow  margin  or,  in  many  cases,  at  a  decided  loss. 

Whatever  the  special  type  of  merino  utilized,  the  majority  of  the 
growers  of  merino  sheep  m  the  Ohio  region  are  placing  the  chief 
emphasis  on  wool  production.  This  is  clear  from  an  examination  of 
the  accompanying  tables. 

Before  the  study  made  of  the  financial  results  attending  these 
operations  is  presented,  the  method  of  arriving  at  comparable  results 
should  be  explained. 

METHODS   OF   COMPUTING   COSTS   IN   OHIO   REGION. 

In  this  district,  since  the  flock  industry  is  intimately  bound  up  with 
other  farming  operations,  it  is  in  general  impossible  to  determine  the 
amount  of  the  mvestment  for  sheep  alone.  In  the  case  of  pasture 
lands  owned  by  the  woolgrower  the  grazing  value  as  determmed  by 
the  prevailing  local  rent  is  charged  to  the  flock.  This  is  based  on 
the  value  of  the  land  for  grazing  and  not  on  its  possible  value  for 
other  purposes.  In  instances  where  the  aftermath  of  meadows, 
other  secondary  crops,  or  crops  grown  especially  for  sheep  have  been 
used  as  pasturage  the  grazing  value  is  charged.  Where  sheep  and 
other  animals  are  grazed  together,  charges  have  been  apportioned 
between  the  sheep  and  other  animals  according  to  their  respective 
consumption  of  forage. 

No  accurate  estimate  of  the  investment  in  buildings  for  housing 
sheep  is  possible.  Such  buUdings  vary  widely  in  value,  and  except 
in  the  case  of  special  sheep  sheds  are  often  used  for  other  animals  as 
well.  Similarly,  no  accurate  apportionment  can  be  made  of  the 
investment  in  buildings  for  the  housing  of  crops,  and  therefore  no 
attempt  has  been  made  to  fix  a  flat  rate  of  depreciation  on  buildings 
of  either  class.  After  full  consideration  of  aU  the  facts  bearing  upon 
this  point  an  annual  charge  of  20  cents  for  each  mature  sheep  was 
allowed  to  cover  expense  arising  from  the  depreciation  of  such  build- 
ings and  equipment  as  might  be  required  to  meet  the  necessities  of 
the  flock. 

All  miscellaneous  expenses  incurred  exclusively  for  sheep,  such  as 
expense  for  taxes,  insurance,  salt,  etc.,  are  charged  to  the  nocks. 

The  value  of  the  harvested  crops  fed  to  the  sheep  has  been  esti- 
mated in  two  different  ways  and  the  results  presented  in  parallel 
columns.  By  the  method  commonly  used  by  most  farmers  the  sheep 
are  charged  with  the  market  value  of  the  crops,  as  representing  the 
price  wmch  they  would  have  brought  the  owner  had  ne  sold  them 
and  which  he  would  have  had  to  pay  had  he  been  obliged  to  buy 
them.  Probably  most  of  these  flock  owners,  however,  grow  sucn* 
harvested  crops  as  they  feed  to  their  sheep,  and  since  the  allow- 
ance of  the  market  price  may  involve  either  a  profit  or  a  loss  on 


356 


HBPOKT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDUUE  K. 


857 


their  production  it  is  deemed  fairer  to  use  the  actual  cost  of  growing 
the  haj  and  grain  in  order  to  eliminate  intermediate  profits  or  losses. 
By  this  method  the  sheep  are  charged  only  with  the  cost  of  raising 
these  crops  in  the  locality  concerned  during  the  year  under  con- 
sideration. This  was  determined  by  an  investigation  by  the  Bureau 
of  Statistics  of  the  United  States  Department  of  Agriculture,  and  the 
figures  so  compiled  are  used  in  the  subjoined  tabulations. 

Since  the  eastern  flock  owner  usually  meets  the  deterioration  of  his 
flock  hj  replacing  unserviceable  sheep  from  the  increase  and  since 
the  period  of  service  of  both  breeding  ewes  and  rams  varies  widely,  no 
attempt  has  been  made  to  fix  a  flat  rate  of  depreciation  on  either  ewes 
or  rams.  No  aUowance  is  made  for  lambs  which  are  retained  in  the 
flock  to  maintain  its  original  standard  and  receipts  from  sales  of  culled 
ewes  are  credited. 

Aflowance  is  made  for  the  amount  of  the  regular  annual  losses 
as  reported  on  the  individual  schedules,  but  with  the  deduction  in 
the  case  of  losses  by  dogs  of  any  compensation  received  from  public 
authorities. 

Sheep  render  a  useful  service  by  keeping  a  farm  free  of  weeds, 
and  the  fertilizing  value  of  the  flock  is  so  universally  conceded  that 
farmers  generaS?  agree  that  these  two  items  offset  the  ordinaiy 
farm  labor  involved  in  caring  for  the  sheep.  Hence  no  charge  is 
made  under  that  head.  Shearing  costs,  however,  are  allowed  under 
misceDaneous  expenses. 

Interest  is  usually  figured  as  a  part  of  production  cost  in  such 
operations,  but  as  rates  are  not  uniform  it  gives  a  fairer  basis  of  com- 
pensation to  omit  any  charge  on  that  account,  leaving  that  item  for 
the  consideration  of  each  individual  as  bearing  upon  the  question 
of  his  profit  rather  than  his  cost. 

It  w3l  be  observed  that  strikingly  different  results  are  obtained  by  the 
two  methods  of  charging  up  hay  and  grain,  ranging  up  to  18  cents  per 
pound  on  the  wool.  The  result  obtained  by  the  usual  method  repre- 
sents  the  real  cost  to  the  man  who  buys  aJl  his  grain  and  hay.  The  costs 
of  those  who  buy  some  forage  to  supplement  the  home-grown  crops 
fed  to  the  sheep  would  fall  somewhere  between  the  two  cost  columns 
presented.  The  fact  that  many  growers  continue  in  the  business  in 
the  face  of  an  apparent  loss,  as  computed  on  the  basis  of  market 
values  of  crops  fed,  is  in  a  measure  explained  by  the  tabulation  of  pro- 
duction cost  of  grain  and  hay.  A  measure  of  profit  is  clearly  being 
reaped  in  the  case  of  the  market  value  compilation  by  selling  grain 
and  h&j  to  the  flock  at  a  material  advance  over  the  actual  cost  of 
production.  Corn  that  was  grown,  for  example,  at  a  cost  of  35  cents 
may  be  charged  to  the  flock  by  the  former  method  at  a  price  of  65 
cents.  Strictly  speaking,  pasturi^  also  should  be  charged  only  at 
cost  of  production,  but  there  is  no  known  method  of  determining  such 
cost.  Hence  the  value  rather  than  the  cost  in  that  case  is  the  only 
obtainable  figure. 

The  tables  v/hich  follow  show  the  results  of  the  investigation  made 
by  agents  of  the  Tariff  Board  into  the  management  of  543  different 
farm  flocks,  408  of  which  were  of  straight  merino  breeding  and  135 
crossed  with  rams  of  a  mutton  type. 


I 


K4 


\ 


The  first  six  of  these  tables  have  been  made  on  a  basis  of  the  net 
charge  against  a  pound  of  merino  wool,  while  the  seventh  gives  the 
statistics  for  crossbred  sheep. 

Table  XIII  includes  those  cases  in  which  the  net  charge  against 
wool  is  35  cents  a  pound  or  over. 

Table  XIV  shows  those  cases  in  which  the  net  charge  is  30  cents 
and  under  35  cents. 

Table  XV,  those  in  which  it  is  25  cents  and  under  30  cents. 

Table  XVI,  those  in  which  it  is  20  cents  and  under  25  cents. 

Table  XVII,  those  in  which  it  is  under  20  cents,  and 

Table  XVIII,  those  in  which  there  is  a  net  credit  to  wool. 

Table  XIX,  those  in  which  there  is  an  average  net  credit  of  2  cents 
per  pound. 

PRODUCTION   OP   MERINO    WOOL  IN    REPRESENTATIVE    EASTERN    DISTRICTS. 

Table  XIII. — Net  charge  against  wool  per  pound  35  cents  and  upward. 

[Interest  on  investment  not  included.] 


Net  charge 

Receipts. 

Exi)ense  on  basis 
of— 

against 
wool  per 
pound  on 
oasis  of— 

Pounds 
of  wool. 

Grade 

of 
wool. 

SeU- 
ing 

price 
I)er 

Num- 
ber of 
sheep. 

Average 

Mar- 
ket 
price 

of 
grain 

Aver- 
age 
cost 

of 
pro- 
duc- 
tion 

fit 

Ex- 
pense 

per 
head. 

From 
wool. 

From 

other 

sources. 

Total. 

Market 

price  of 

grain 

and  hay. 

cost  of 
produc- 
tion of 
CTain 

pound. 

**^o,i. 

* 

and  hay. 

axjvK 

hay. 

grain 

and 

hay. 

102 

976 
1,822 

XX 
XX 

$214.  50 
610. 16 

$214.50 
720.31 

$468.59 
1,377.57 

$337.84 
1,030.07 

$0.48 
.64 

$0.35 
.44 

$0.22 
.28 

$3.31 

464 

"S2i6.'i6' 

2.22 

350 

2,000 

XX 

600.00 

25.00 

625.00 

1,124.66 

847.45 

.55 

.41 

.30 

2.42 

400 

2,600 

XX 

754.00 

137.50 

891.50 

1,652.98 

1,048.48 

.58 

.35 

.29 

2.62 

79 

290 

XX 

58.00 

59.00 

117.00 

236.43 

176. 18 

.61 

.40 

.20 

2.23 

606 

2,000 

X 

450.00 

450.00 

1,096.41 

885.12 

.54 

.44 

.22J 

1.46 

200 

1,141 
900 

X 
XX 

330.89 
252.00 

330.89 
332.00 

767. 86 
655.25 

449.47 
469.65 

.67 
.64 

.39 
.43 

.29 
.28 

2.25 

137 

""so."  66" 

3.43 

249 

1,000 

XX 

280.00 

160.00 

440.00 

863.80 

604.05 

.70 

.44 

.28 

2.43 

142 

975 

XX 

292.50 

60.00 

352.50 

535.17 

406.07 

.49 

.35 

.30 

2.86 

101 

647 
3.150 

XX 
XX 

194.  10 

945.00 

194.10 
1,328.00 

277.69 
2,178.69 

235.19 
1,590.30 

.43 
.57 

.37 
.39 

.30 
.30 

2.33 

560 

'"*383."66" 

2.84 

66 

275 

XX 

82.50 

67.00 

139.50 

218.75 

175.00 

.69 

.43 

.30 

2.65 

401 

1,365 

982 

1,598 

XX 
XX 
XX 

409.50 
216.04 
399.50 

409.50 
216.04 
511.80 

843.72 
474. 42 
998.97 

670. 47 
348.96 
673. 02 

.62 
.48 
.55 

.49 
.35 
.35 

.30 
.22 
.25 

1.67 

112 

3.12 

270 

""iii'so' 

2.49 

49 

230 

XX 

46.00 

23.00 

69.00 

152.46 

113.95 

.56 

.39 

.20 

2.33 

106 

584 

XX 

128.48 

50.00 

178.48 

348.74 

282.89 

.51 

.40 

.22 

2.67 

97 

447 

XX 

102.81 

30.00 

132.81 

296.93 

235.  79 

.60 

.46 

.23 

2.43 

105 

566 

XX 

141.50 

18.20 

159.  70 

342.76 

289.21 

.59 

.48 

.25 

2.75 

181 

487 

XX 

107. 14 

33.00 

140.14 

420.27 

338.94 

.79 

.63 

.22 

1.87 

242 

1.495 

XX 

448.50 

125.00 

573.50 

833.50 

692.78 

.47 

.37 

.30 

2.86 

375 

2,200 

XX 

649.00 

280.00 

929.00 

1,350.99 

1,072.11 

.49 

.37 

.29i 

2.88 

200 

1,429 

X 

410. 18 

150.00 

660.18 

933.47 

660.97 

.55 

.36 

/.20 

\.29 

.30 

).3.30 

ai5 

1,860 

XXX 

558.00 

144.00 

702.00 

1,185.55 

862.55 

.66 

.39 

2.74 

42 

360 

M 

90.00 

69.00 

159.00 

266.98 

193.  21 

.55 

.35 

,25 

4.60 

305 

1,650 

478.50 

285.00 

763.50 

1,123.65 

881.39 

.51 

.36 

.29 

2.88 

143 

838 

XX 

251.40 

75.00 

326.40 

473.64 

386.04 

.48 

.37 

.30 

2.70 

96 

422 

XX 

118. 16 

40.00 

158.16 

291.22 

209.22 

.60 

,40 

.28 

2  09 

90 

750 
2,072 

XX 
XX 

225.00 
621.60 

225.00 
921.60 

446.91 
1,621.91 

317.  91 
1,241.35 

.60 
.64 

.43 
.46 

.30 
.30 

3.53 

378 

"moo" 

3.28 

292 

824 

XX 

230.72 

45.00 

275.72 

630.84 

428.11 

.59 

.46 

.28 

1.46 

6,455 

37,734 

10,595.68 

2,951.15 

13,546.83 

24,491.69 

18,163.73 

J.  58 

».40 

1.28 

12.81 

I  Average. 


858 


BEPOBT  OF   TAMFF  BOABD  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


Table  XIV. — Net  charge  against  wool  per  poundj  SO  cents  and  under  S5  cents. 


Net 

charge 

■ 

Beceipts. 

Expense  on  basis 
of— 

against 
wool  per 
pound  on 
basis  of— 

Potmds 
of  wool. 

Grade 

of 
wooL 

SeU- 

ing 

price 

per 

pound. 

Num- 
ber of 
iheep. 

From 
wool. 

From 

other 

sources. 

Total. 

Market 

price  of 

grain 

and  hay. 

Average 
cost  of 
produc- 
tion of 
grain 
and  hay. 

Mar- 
ket 
price 

of 

grain 

and 

hay. 

Aver- 
age 
cost 

of 

pro- 
duc- 
tion 

of 

grain 

and 

Ex. 

pcnse 

per 

head. 

hay. 

7! 

mi 

XX 

$145.74 

II45.74 

$314.24 

$222.39 

SO.  45 

$0.32 

$0.21 

$3.02 

1S2 

1,152 

XX 

345.60 

$30.00 

375.60 

570.07 

473.57 

.47 

.30 

.30 

3.12 

226 

2,043 
580 

XX 
XX 

612.00 
162.40 

612.90 
249.90 

1,084.97 
347.29 

647.76 
281.29 

.53 
.45 

.32 
.33 

.30 

.28 

2.87 

132 

87.60 

2.13 

192 

1,196 

XX 

358.80 

165.00 

523.90 

731.27 

577. 97 

.47 

.34 

.30 

3.01 

83 

530 

XX 

132.50 

35.00 

167.50 

237.35 

202.35 

.38 

.32 

.25 

2.47 

163 

1,620 

XX 

405.00 

128.10 

533.10 

1,008.21 

619.46 

.54 

.30 

.25 

2.35 

270 

1,966 

XX 

471.60 

44.00 

515.60 

881.41 

649.91 

.42 

.30 

.24 

2.41 

95 

658 

XX 

16450 

75.00 

239.50 

357.98 

271.73 

.43 

.30 

.25 

2.86 

133 

840 

XX 

226.20 

80.00 

306.20 

512.13 

347.23 

.51 

.32 

.27 

2.61 

271 

1,694 

XX 

508.20 

100.00 

608.20 

894.08 

660.65 

.45 

.32 

.30 

2.44 

422 

2,134 

XX 

661.54 

176.00 

837.54 

1,198.04 

872.64 

.48 

.33 

.31 

2.07 

278 

2,680 

XX 

670.00 

291.00 

961.00 

1,664.33 

1,123.09 

.51 

.31 

.25 

4.03 

106 

1,075 

XX 

215.00 

88.00 

303.00 

477. 19 

409.79 

.36 

.30 

.20 

3.87 

407 

3,120 

XX 

748.80 

225.00 

973.80 

1,574.15 

1,245.65 

.43 

.33 

.24 

3.06 

300 

2,400 
514 

XX 

XX 

552.00 
113.00 

552.00 
216.50 

1,100.03 
407.43 

802.53 
273.65 

.46 
.59 

.34 
.33 

.23 
.22 

2.67 

77 

103.50 

3.55 

025 

4,074 

XX 

1,018.50 

283.25 

1,301.75 

2,363.10 

1,620.73 

.51 

.33 

.25 

2.60 

1S6 

990 

XX 

227.70 

88.00 

315. 70 

545.65 

411.05 

.46 

.33 

.23 

2.21 

406 

2,800 

XX 

868.00 

200.00 

1,068.00 

1,546.40 

1,0.-^4.30 

.48 

.30 

.31 

2.57 

234 

1,212 

XX 

369.66 

135.00 

504.66 

693.20 

507.46 

.46 

.31 

.30^ 

2.17 

845 

3,651 

X 

1,095.30 

71.57 

1,166.87 

1,627.63 

1,2;M.13 

.43 

.32 

.30 

1.46 

315 

2,310 

XX 

716. 10 

16.00 

732.10 

1,082.00 

824.30 

.46 

.34 

.31 

2.62 

III 

1,000 

XX 

250.00 

100.00 

350.00 

554.50 

405.00 

.45 

.30 

.25 

2.87 

54 

582 

XX 

145.50 

61.00 

206.50 

323.85 

243.85 

.45 

.31 

.25 

4.51 

682 

4,100 

XX 

1,025.00 

516.00 

1,541.00 

2,048.88 

1,854.38 

.37 

.32 

.25 

2.72 

235 

1,700 

XX 

425.00 

195.00 

620.00 

1,065.70 

765.70 

.51 

.33 

.25 

3.28 

185 

925 

XXX 

277.50 

165.00 

442.50 

664.95 

473. 16 

.54 

.33 

.30 

2.55 

686 

4,000 

XX 

1.200.00 

498.25 

1,698.25 

2,724.40 

1,8%.  90 

.66 

.34 

.30 

2.68 

156 

861 

XX 

249.69 

60.00 

309.69 

476.03 

327.03 

.48 

.30 

.29 

2.09 

139 

865 

XX 

242.20 

90.00 

332.20 

470.88 

372.09 

.44 

.32 

.28 

2.OT 

52 

470 

XX 

141.00 

33.00 

174.00 

241.35 

181.05 

.44 

.32 

.30 

2.14 

81 

577 

XX 

161.56 

50.00 

211.56 

283.75 

234.55 

.41 

.33 

.28 

2.90 

8,876 

57,083 

15,386.79 

4,511.67 

19,898.46 

31,342.43 

22,960.54 

».47 

».32 

1.27 

12.50 

ATeragfli» 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON   SCHEDULJE  K.  359 

Table  XV.— Net  charge  against  wool  per  pound,  25  cents  and  under  SO  cents. 


!■ 


■'•I 


%i 


Num- 
ber of 
sheep. 


209 
482 
430 
109 
178 
360 
134 
130 
153 
242 
367 
392 
168 
310 
139 
216 
206 
123 
166 
148 
154 
122 
220 
222 
338 
90 
427 
82 
133 
100 
262 
119 
201 
171 
173 
120 
334 
70 
44 
77 
282 
486 
294 
310 
136 
435 
100 
434 
271 
125 
247 
203 
169 
317 
190 
145 
151 
87 
153 
147 
129 
115 


Pounds 
of  wool. 


13,561 


1,450 
3,022 
2,801 

539 
1,299 
1,870 

667 
1,040 
1,487 
2,296 
2,936 
2,730 
1,202 
2,200 

900 
1,597 
1,414 

750 

771 
1,160 
1,120 

775 
1,330 
1,640 
3,300 
1,025 
2,900 

650 

935 

544 
1,184 

789 
1,220 

839 
1,150 

705 
2,020 

351 

264 

503 
1,976 
3,340 
1,564 
1,123 

857 
1,757 

650 
2,950 
1,863 
1,000 
1,430 
1,400 
1,050 
1,975 
1,664 

995 
1,284 

680 
1,276 
1,120 
1,260 
1,014 


Grade 

of 
wool. 


90,886 


XX 
XX 
XX 
XX 
X 

XX 
XX 
XX 
XX 
XX 
XX 
XX 
X 

X 

XX 

XX 

X 

X 
XX 

X 
XX 

X 
XX 
XX 
XX 
XX 
XX 
XX 
XX 
XX 
XX 
XX 
XX 
XX 
XX 
XX 
XX 
XX 
XX 
XX 
XX 
XX 
XX 
XX 
XX 
XX 
XX 
XX 

X 
XX 
XX 
XX 
XX 
XX 
XX 
XX 
XX 
XXX 

X 

XX 
XX 
XX 


Receipts. 


From 
wool. 


$333.50 
755.50 
840.30 
166.31 
311.76 
661.00 
160.00 
272.00 
342.00 
528.00 
822.08 
627.90 
276. 46 
638.00 
220.50 
400.00 
353.50 
225.00 
231.30 
336.  40 
336.00 
232.50 
332.50 
410.00 
825.00 
246.00 
681.50 
149.50 
224.40 

114. 24 
355.20 
236.70 
353.80 
235.00 
230.00 
155.10 
606.00 

70.20 
58.08 
100.60 
592.80 
968.60 
437.92 
320.05 

214. 25 
527.10 
195.00 
885.00 
558.90 
240.00 
350.35 
350.00 
262.50 
493.75 
499.20 
223.87 
359. 52 
190.40 
357.28 
313.60 
352.80 
283.92 


From 

other 

sources. 


24,06L14 


$87.00 
350.00 


80.00 

75.00 

126.00 

150.00 

147.00 

227.50 

354.91 

100.00 

330.00 

100.00 

198.00 

144.00 

105.00 

150.00 

135.00 

85.00 

120.00 

81.00 

82.80 

202.00 

168.30 

240.34 

100.00 

375.00 

75.00 

166.00 

70.00 

225.00 

75.00 

72.40 

100.00 

86.50 

49.50 

360.00 

39.00 

27.50 


249.00 
309.20 
187.80 
240.00 
105.00 
466.26 
25.00 
142.50 
115.50 
150.00 
120.00 
151.50 
119.30 
228.50 
135.00 
136.00 
90.00 
90.00 
124.00 
156.00 
107.50 
105.00 


Total. 


9,678.51 


$420.50 

1,105.50 
840.30 
236.31 
386.76 
687.00 
310.00 
419.00 
669.50 
882.91 
922.08 
957.90 
376.46 
836.00 
364.50 
505.00 
503.50 
360.00 
316.30 
456.40 
417.00 
315. 30 
534.50 
678.30 

1,065.34 
346.00 

1,056.50 
224.60 
390.40 
184.24 
680.20 
311. 70 
426.20 
335.00 
316.50 
204.60 
966.00 
109.20 
85.58 
100.60 
841.80 

1,277.80 
625.72 
560.05 
319.25 
993.36 
220.00 

1,027.50 
674.40 
390.00 
470. 35 
501.50 
381.80 
722.25 
634.20 
359.87 
449.52 
280.40 
48L28 
469.60 
460.30 
388.92 


Expense  on  basis 
Of-r 


Market 

price  of 

grain 

and  hay. 


33,739.65 


$698.76 
1,374.21 
1,087.81 
352.00 
601.03 
920.07 
492.35 
554.52 
904.06 
1,471.75 
1,269.69 
1,602.12 
467.90 
1, 109. 58 
540.28 
722.88 
731.73 
455. 12 
353.90 
587.30 
551.77 
418. 19 
663.73 
739.09 
1,438.75 
510. 41 
1,527.77 
333.63 
571. 70 
298.57 
740.15 
353.01 
657.48 
599.35 
461.49 
326.47 
1,295.13 
184. 84 
107. 21 
184.60 
950.88 
1,935.49 
784.05 
771.05 
483.08 
1,294.31 
325. 87 
1,253.00 
869.03 
536.48 
704.28 
750.75 
578.93 
856.54 
690.66 
496.35 
594.98 
293.84 
721.35 
676. 75 
693.20 
523.83 


Average 
cost  of 

produc- 
tion of 
grain 

and  hay. 


46,686.33 


$448.86 
1, 114. 21 
707.39 
230.75 
440.03 
672.07 
320.74 
406.68 
613.58 
911.78 

1,075.52 
402.27 
794.58 
383.78 
501.73 
504.98 
309.99 
266.55 
457.90 
395.60 
311. 78 
524.73 
589.09 

1,126.80 
398. 91 

1, 118. 27 
246.88 
425.20 
223.62 
611.09 
288.51 
415.48 
344.85 
389.16 
242.90 
929.42 
133.37 
101.63 
147.69 
732. 38 

1,136.20 
687.70 
535.41 
330.63 
944.81 
209.32 
988.84 
681.98 
390.59 
611.64 
534.75 
408.53 
783.22 
554.66 
382.01 
431.48 
273.04 
468.40 
465.37 
455.84 
404.74 


Net  charge 

against 

wool  per 

pound  on 

basis  of— 


Mar- 
ket 

price 
of 

grain 
and 

hay. 


$0.42 
.34 
.39 
.50 
.40 
.42 
.61 
.39 
.45 
.49 
.40 
.47 
.31 
.41 
.44 
.39 
.41 
.43 
.35 
.40 
.42 
.43 
.35 
.35 
.36 
.40 
.40 
.40 
.43 
.42 
.44 
.35 
.48 
.59 
.33 
.39 
.46 
.42 
.30 
.37 
.36 
.49 
.38 
.47 
.44 
.47 
.46 
.38 
.40 
.39 
.41 
.43 
.44 
.32 
.33 
.36 
.39 
.30 
.47 
.38 
.39 
.41 


33,854.78 


Aver- 
age 
cost 

of 

pro- 
auc- 
tion 

of 

grain 

and 

hay. 


1.41 


$0.25 
.26 
.25 
.27 
.27 
.29 
.25 
.25 
.26 
.26 
.26 
.27 
.26 
.26 
.27 
.25 
.25 
.24 
.24 
.28 
.28 
.29 
.25 
.26 
.27 
.29 
.26 
.26 
.27 
.28 
.25 
.27 
.28 
.29 
.27 
.27 
.28 
.27 
.28 
.29 
.25 
.25 
.26 
.26 
.26 
.27 
.28 
.29 
.29 
.25 
.28 
.28 
.28 
.29 
.25 
.25 
.26 
.27 
.27 
.28 
.28 
.29 


Sell- 
ing 
price 
per 
pound. 


Ex- 
pense 

per 
head. 


$0.23 
.25 
.30 
.29 
.24 
.30 
.24 
.26 
.23 
.23 
.28 
.23 
.23 
.29 
.24) 
.25 
.25 
.30 
.30 
.29 
.30 
.30 
.25 
.25 
.25 
.24 
.23) 
.23 
.24 
.21 
.30 
.30 
.29 
.28 
.20 
.22 
.30 
.20 
.22 
.20 
.30 
.29 
.28 
.28) 
.25 
.30 
.30 
.30 
.30 
.24 
.24) 
.25 
.25 
.25 
.30 
.22) 
.28 
.28 
.28 
.28 
.28 
.28 


1.27 


$2.15 
2.31 
L65 
2.12 
2.47 
1.87 
2.39 
3.13 
4.01 
3.77 
2.33 
2.74 
2.39 
2.56 
2.76 
2.32 
2.45 
2.52 
1.61 
3.09 
2.57 
2.56 
2.39 
2.65 
3.33 
4.43 
2.62 
3.01 
3.20 
2.24 
1.95 
2.42 
2.07 
2.02 
2.25 
2.02 
2.78 
1.91 
2.31 
1.92 
2.60 
2  34 
2.00 
L73 
2.43 
2.17 
2.09 
2.28 
2.52 
3.12 
2.07 
2.63 
2.42 
2.47 
2.92 
2.63 
2.86 
3.14 
3.00 
3.17 
3.53 
3.52 


1.27 


12.50 


I  Average. 


860 


BBPORT  OF  TAKIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


EEPOBT  OF  TAKIFF  BOARD   ON   SCHEDXJLiE  K. 


361 


Tablb  XVI. — Net  charge  against  wool  per  pounds  20  cents  and  under  25  cents. 


Table  XVII. — Net  diarge  against  wool  per  pound  under  20  cents. 


Net 

charge 

Beceipts. 

mil 

Expense 
ol 

!on  basis 

against 
wool  per 
pound  on 
basis  of— 

Sell- 

ing 

price 

per 

pound. 

Nnm- 
her  of 
fiheep. 

Pounds 
of  wool. 

Grade 

of 
wool. 

From 
wool. 

From 

other 

sources. 

Total. 

Market 

price  of 

grain 

and  hay. 

Average 
cost  of 

produc- 
tion of 
grain 

and  hay. 

Mar- 
ket 

price 
of 

grain 
and 

hay. 

Aver- 
age 
cost  of 
pro- 
duc- 
tion of 
grain 
and 
hay. 

Ex- 
pense 

per 
head. 

217 

1,616 

XX 

S371.68 

8100.00 

8471.68 

S714.18 

$453.28 

SO.  38 

10.22 

$0.23 

$2.09 

170 

1,176 

XX 

352.80 

98.00 

450.80 

627.10 

451.60 

.36 

.21 

.30 

2.66 

217 

1,600 

XX 

480.00 

163.00 

643.00 

776.62 

613. 12 

.38 

.21 

.30 

2.36 

80 

432 

XX 

120.96 

32.00 

152.96 

193.88 

138.28 

.37 

.24 

.28 

1.73 

23tt 

2,229 

XX 

668.70 

95.00 

763.70 

953.67 

612.17 

.39 

.24 

.30 

2.59 

135 

706 

XX 

211.50 

62.50 

274.00 

340.30 

239.20 

.39 

.24 

.30 

1.77 

2Z2 

1,200 

XX 

276.00 

213.00 

489.00 

602.47 

453.47 

.32 

.20 

.23 

2.04 

275 

2,054 

XX 

492.96 

190.00 

682.96 

945.79 

633.48 

.37 

.22 

.24 

2.30 

106 

1,170 

XX 

292.50 

296.70 

589.20 

1,109.75 

581.81 

.69 

.24 

.25 

3.50 

265 

2,500 

XX 

650.00 

280.00 

830.00 

1,046.01 

794.81 

.31 

.21 

.22 

3.12 

146 

1,057 

XX 

264.25 

107.50 

371.75 

477.95 

322.15 

.35 

.20 

.25 

2.21 

152 

762 

XX 

228.60 

111.00 

339.60 

389.50 

281.16 

.37 

.22 

.30 

1.85 

169 

1,017 

XX 

254.26 

117.50 

371.75 

481.47 

346.22 

.36 

.23 

.25 

2.05 

121 

651 

XX 

195.30 

123.00 

318.30 

381.11 

225.07 

.40 

.21 

.30 

1.86 

353 

1,776 

X 

550.56 

195.00 

745.56 

753.68 

581.29 

.31 

.21 

.31 

1.65 

IM 

1,005 

XX 

301.50 

100.00 

401.50 

380.60 

308.65 

.28 

.21 

.30 

2.11 

184 

1,187 

XX 

356.10 

180.00 

536.10 

539.76 

432.26 

.30 

.21 

.30 

2.35 

130 

600 

XX 

180.00 

160.00 

340.00 

427.39 

283.39 

.45 

.21 

.30 

2.18 

070 

6,216 

XX 

1,616.96 

502.00 

2,118.96 

2,223.44 

1,635.65 

.33 

.21 

.31 

2.44 

483 

3,160 

XX 

948.00 

407.00 

1,365.00 

1,459.05 

1,072.09 

.33 

.21 

.30 

2.22 

753 

3,900 

XX 

1,170.00 

716.50 

1,886.50 

2,061.79 

1,594.06 

.34 

.22 

.30 

2.12 

im 

1,992 

XX 

607.56 

180.00 

787.56 

783.33 

627.63 

.30 

.22 

.301 

2.69 

123 

1,240 

X 

310.00 

121. 7« 

431.76 

472. 63 

365.38 

.28 

.20 

.26 

2.97 

210 

1,800 

XX 

450.00 

212.95 

662.95 

748.43 

569.93 

.30 

.20 

.25 

2.67 

307 

1,315 

XX 

328.75 

219.00 

647.75 

640.96 

480.16 

.32 

.20 

.25 

2.32 

ao6 

1,750 

XX 

437.50 

150.00 

687.60 

706.15 

533.75 

.32 

.23 

.25 

2.57 

82 

492 

XX 

123.00 

90.00 

213.00 

262.40 

205.40 

,35 

.23 

.25 

2.50 

82U 

2,500 

XX 

625.00 

326.00 

951.00 

1,173.93 

918.93 

.34 

.23 

.25 

2.79 

105 

1,000 

X 

250.00 

125.00 

375.00 

411.86 

334.36 

.29 

.21 

.26 

3.18 

473 

3,800 

XX 

912.00 

332.00 

1,244.00 

1,470.38 

1,141.58 

.30 

.22 

.24 

2.41 

342 

2,400 

X 

552.00 

240.00 

792.00 

982.67 

784.67 

.31 

.23 

.23 

2.29 

mo 

724 

XX 

217.20 

54.00 

271.20 

261.32 

194.92 

.29 

.20 

.30 

1.95 

74 

540 

XX 

162.00 

72.00 

234.00 

276.49 

183.49 

.38 

.21 

.30 

2.48 

1,210 

6,720 

XX 

2,083.20 

350.00 

2,433.20 

2,435.35 

1,827.85 

.31 

.21 

.31 

1.51 

365 

2,517 

XX 

755.10 

156.00 

911. 10 

1,150.78 

730.36 

.40 

.24 

.30 

2.00 

448 

2,832 

XX 

679.00 

392.00 

971.00 

1,407.22 

924.97 

.39 

.20 

.22 

2.06 

178 

1,214 

XX 

279.22 

152.00 

431.22 

655.23 

404.29 

.33 

.20 

.23 

2.27 

869 

4,647 

XX 

1,301.16 

820.00 

2, 121. 16 

2,501.86 

1,715.28 

.36 

.20 

.28 

2.00 

249 

1,736 

XX 

486.08 

205.72 

691.80 

787.66 

549.45 

.34 

.20 

.28 

2.21 

198 

1,485 

XX 

371.25 

143.00 

614.25 

671.66 

436.72 

.35 

.20 

.25 

2.21 

W 

4,413 

XX 

1,348.90 

663.97 

1,902.87 

2,273.67 

1,492.92 

.39 

.21 

.30 

2.00 

275 

1,700 

XX 

382.50 

164.00 

546.50 

822.91 

626.88 

.39 

.22 

.221 

1.92 

llA 

643 

XX 

180.00 

72.00 

252.00 

326.80 

214. 78 

.40 

.22 

.28 

1.85 

119 

2,352 

XX 

658.66 

225.00 

883.56 

1,112.12 

777.22 

.38 

.23 

.28 

2.44 

132 

786 

XX 

240.85 

70.00 

310.85 

396.22 

268.61 

.41 

.24 

.30 

2.03 

231 

1,523 

XX 

380.75 

210.00 

590.75 

883.19 

584.83 

.44 

.24 

.25 

2.53 

325 

2,134 

XX 

522.83 

400.00 

922.83 

1,256.66 

902.16 

.40 

.24 

.24} 

2.78 

214 

1,884 

XX 

414.48 

186.00 

600.48 

696.88 

666.69 

.27 

.20 

.22 

2.60 

35 

216 

XX 

54.00 

27.00 

81.00 

99.48 

73.36 

.34 

.21 

.26 

2.10 

81 

53.1 

XX 

117.26 

81.00 

198.26 

284.53 

205.52 

.38 

.23 

.22 

2.54 

687 

3,574 

XX 

893.50 

265.00 

1,158.60 

1,507.02 

1,028.22 

.34 

.21 

.25 

1,75 

298 

1,619 

XX 

446.92 

190.60 

637.42 

759. 17 

525.64 

.35 

.21 

.28 

1.76 

172 

1,020 

XX 

295.80 

50.00 

345.80 

355.60 

266.87 

.30 

.21 

.29 

1.65 

SB 

2,287 

XX 

548.88 

159.00 

707.88 

780.60 

674. 62 

.27 

.22 

.24 

2.14 

127 

1,358 

XX 

387.03 

165.00 

552.03 

691. 14 

472.94 

.31 

.22 

.28  J 

3.72 

140 

850 

XX 

255.00 

120.25 

375.25 

479. 70 

310. 61 

.42 

.22 

.30 

2.22 

447 

3,504 

XX 

1,011.00 

396.00 

1,407.00 

2,021.34 

1, 189. 84 

.46 

.22 

.29 

2.66 

191 

1,687 

XX 

396.75 

232.00 

628.75 

749.56 

583.74 

.33 

.23 

.25 

3.06 

122 

90O 

XX 

225.00 

91.00 

316.00 

482.45 

304.28 

.43 

.23 

.25 

2.49 

117 

731 

XX 

219.30 

73.60 

292.80 

433.51 

243.01 

.49 

.23 

.30 

2,06 

273 

1,955 

XX 

586.50 

220.00 

806.50 

943.90 

674.64 

.37 

.24 

.30 

2.47 

164 

1,400 

X 

350.00 

140.00 

490.00 

663.79 

415.50 

.30 

.20 

.25 

2.53 

278 

2,633 

X 

691.16 

206.50 

897.66 

1,036.10 

743.10 

.31 

.20 

.2(^ 

2.67 

83 

623 

XX 

186.90 

85.50 

272.40 

287.15 

213.05 

.32 

.21 

.30 

2.57 

898 

2,739 

XX 

684.75 

409.00 

1,093.75 

1,456.09 

969.70 

.38 

.21 

.25 

2.44 

120 

flS6 

XX 

224.64 

108.00 

332.64 

473.30 

317.20 

.39 

.22 

.24 

2.64 

196 

1,510 

XX 

422.80 

89.40 

512.20 

496.05 

391.85 

.27 

.20 

.28 

2.00 

177 

1,142 

XX 

326.47 

180.00 

505.47 

545.61 

404.71 

.32 

.20 

.28} 

2.29 

236 

2,660 

X 

744.80 

98.00 

842.80 

865.82 

663.88 

.29 

.21 

.28 

2.81 

216 

2,580 

XX 

722.40 

260.00 

982.40 

1, 106. 16 

863.62 

.33 

.23 

.28 

4.00 

18,649 

129,160 

35,207.97 

14,314.75 

49,522.72 

59,423.51 

42,337.59 

1.35 

1.22 

».27 

»2.27 

I 


1 


Net  charge 

Receipts. 

Expense  on  basis 
of— 

against 
wool  per 
pouna  on 
basis  of— 

Pounds 
of  wool. 

Grade 

of 
wool. 

Sett- 
ing 
price 
per 
pound. 

Num- 
ber of 
sheep. 

From 
wool. 

From 

other 

sources. 

Total. 

Market 

price  of 

grain 

and  hay. 

Average 
cost  of 
produc- 
tion of 
grain 
and  hay. 

Mar- 
ket 

price 
of 

grain 
and 

hay. 

Aver- 
age 
cost 
of 

pro- 
duc- 
tion 
of 

grain 
and 

Ex- 
pense 

per 
head. 

hay. 

147 

1,599 

XX 

$343.79 

$36aoo 

$703.79 

$517.02 

$372.77 

$aio 

$0.01 

$a21} 

$2.63 

458 

4,146 

XX 

953.58 

1,800.00 

2,753.58 

2,931.17 

2,132,53 

.27 

.08 

.23 

4.66 

183 

1,272 

XX 

318.00 

325.00 

643.00 

617. 36 

456.96 

.23 

.10 

.25 

2.49 

65 

660 

XX 

168.40 

7&00 

236.40 

203.67 

151,55 

.19 

.11 

.24 

2.33 

134 

1,300 

XX 

286l00 

16a  00 

446.00 

438.33 

320.96 

.21 

.12 

.22 

2.40 

141 

1,064 

X 

212.80 

159.90 

372.  70 

422.79 

298.79 

.25 

.13 

.20 

2.12 

67 

425 

X 

97.75 

120.00 

217.  75 

253.69 

192.22 

.31 

.17 

.23 

3,37 

372 

2,450 

XX 

735.00 

464.45 

1,199.45 

920.95 

611. 15 

.19 

.07 

.30 

1.64 

67 

913 

XX 

182.60 

140.00 

322.60 

29a  11 

238.73 

.17 

.11 

.20 

3.56 

162 

2,029 

XX 

507.25 

217.00 

724.25 

854.57 

686.63 

.31 

.17 

.25 

3.85 

34t 

2,404 

XX 

625.04 

120.00 

745.04 

901.97 

67a  42 

.33 

.19 

.26 

1.67 

187 

1,266 

XX 

379.80 

280.00 

659.80 

462.47 

290,97 

.14 

.003 

.30 

1.55 

107 

660 

XX 

162.40 

112.00 

274.40 

228.55 

146.00 

.21 

.06 

.29 

1.36 

360 

2,170 

XX 

651.00 

660.96 

1,220.96 

1,061.87 

767.  77 

.23 

.10 

.30 

2.16 

933 

6,500 

XX 

1,950.00 

718.50 

2,668.60 

3,454.03 

1,649.88 

.42 

.14 

.30 

1,77 

89 

700 

XX 

196.00 

68.50 

254.50 

244,48 

153.26 

.27 

.14 

.28 

1,72 

92 

683 

XX 

157.09 

106.00 

263.09 

331.79 

2ia  74 

.33 

.16 

.28 

2,29 

186 

830 

XX 

257.30 

127.00 

384.30 

430.19 

258.70 

.37 

.16 

.31 

1,39 

174 

912 

X 

273.60 

156.00 

429.60 

417. 27 

320.44 

.29 

.18 

.30 

1.84 

62 

350 

X 

80.50 

75.00 

155.50 

128.39 

96.39 

.15 

.06 

.23 

1.85 

90 

960 

XX 

192.00 

250.00 

442.00 

423.32 

308.14 

.18 

.06 

.20 

3,42 

148 

1,274 

X 

300.00 

260.00 

560,00 

501.07 

363.07 

.19 

.08 

.23i 

2.52 

164 

1,335 

XX 

307.05 

307.34 

614.39 

472.  81 

364.25 

.12 

.04 

.23 

2.22 

294 

1,746 

XX 

436.50 

396.00 

832.50 

712.08 

529.94 

.18 

.08 

.25 

1,80 

'      90 

610 

XX 

152.50 

150.00 

302.50 

285.46 

203.46 

.22 

.00 

.25 

2.25 

UO 

1,440 

XX 

360.00 

48.00 

408.00 

283,55 

271. 16 

.23 

.15 

.25 

2.46 

197 

1,687 

XX 

421.75 

294.10 

715.85 

860,01 

666.34 

.34 

.17 

.25 

2.88 

77 

625 

XX 

162.60 

127.50 

290.00 

352.88 

240.68 

.36 

.18 

.26 

3.12 

315 

3,080 

XX 

770.00 

459.66 

1,229.66 

837, 52 

643,70 

.13 

.06 

.26 

2.04 

102 

909 

XX 

227.25 

216.00 

443.25 

411.25 

303,58 

.21 

.09 

.26 

2.98 

167 

1,206 

XX 

289.44 

217.00 

506.44 

444.01 

376. 82 

.19 

.13 

.24 

2.25 

199 

1,400 

X 

350.00 

140.00 

490.00 

444.45 

400.62 

.22 

.16 

.26 

2.01 

66 

658 

XX 

157.92 

87.00 

244.92 

230.46 

186,08 

.22 

.16 

.24 

2.82 

150 

1,000 

XX 

220.00 

190.00 

410.00 

429.06 

359.16 

.24 

.17 

.22 

2.39 

72 

560 

XX 

128.80 

194.00 

322.80 

272,60 

195.15 

.14 

.002 

.23 

2.71 

77 

619 

XX 

117.61 

,     120.00 

237.61 

206,21 

168.86 

.14 

.06 

.19 

2.18 

87 

240 

XX 

67.60 

96,00 

153.60 

136.29 

113.  79 

.17 

.07 

.24 

3.08 

99 

800 

XX 

192.00 

196.00 

388.00 

323,33 

255.08 

.16 

.08 

.24 

2.67 

231 

1,980 

X 

476.20 

468.00 

943.20 

887,97 

629.91 

.22 

.08 

.24 

2.73 

130 

1,034 

X 

206.80 

120.00 

326.80 

288.92 

237,47 

.16 

.11 

.20 

1.83 

306 

1,910 

XX 

439.30 

240.00 

679.30 

649.75 

596,35 

.21 

.17 

.23 

1.94 

105 

1,000 

X 

250.00 

269.53 

519.53 

336.93 

260.43 

.07 

.03 

.25 

2.48 

302 

2,218 

XX 

488.00 

165.00 

653.00 

697. 41 

371. 91 

.19 

.09 

.22 

1.23 

178 

1,610 

XX 

402.50 

248.75 

651.25 

563,55 

415.05 

.20 

.10 

.25 

2.33 

18C 

1,601 

X 

400.00 

200.00 

600,00 

482.88 

360.13 

.18 

.10 

.25 

1.94 

227 

1,734 

XX 

433.50 

240,00 

673,50 

660,43 

458.41 

.24 

.12 

.25 

2.02 

91 

728 

X 

182.00 

190.00 

372.00 

396.76 

286.81 

.28 

.13 

.25 

3.15 

140 

1,014 

XX 

233.22 

126.00 

359,22 

397,66 

273.91 

.27 

.14 

.23 

1.96 

216 

1,445 

XX 

361.25 

154,00 

615.25 

570. 99 

382.34 

.29 

.16 

.25 

1.77 

147 

1,712 

XX 

393.76 

214.50 

608.26 

740,99 

482. 19 

.31 

.16 

*.23 

3.28 

130 

1,038 

X 

259.50 

100.00 

359,50 

327.30 

261.55 

.22 

.16 

.25 

2.01 

311 

2,000 

XX 

500.00 

276,00 

776,00 

969.23 

633,63 

.35 

.18 

.25 

2,04 

167 

1,837 

XX 

459.00 

433.75 

892,75 

1,075.71 

775. 11 

.35 

.19 

.25 

4.64 

132 

1,700 

X 

425.00 

490.05 

915,05 

622.20 

548.19 

.08 

.03 

.25 

4,15 

130 

1.585 

X 

348.70 

360.00 

708.70 

632.71 

481.01 

.17 

.07 

.22 

3.71 

285 

3,500 

X 

875.00 

875.00 

1,750.00 

1,623.42 

1,355.72 

.21 

.14 

.25 

4,76 

102 

900 

X 

225.00 

225.00 

450.00 

445,85 

314.61 

.24 

.16 

.25 

3.08 

127 

1,400 

XX 

304.51 

161.00 

465,51 

367.95 

272.76 

.15 

.08 

.211 

2,14 

150 

1,160 

XX 

353.80 

126.75 

480,55 

309.98 

235.68 

.16 

.09 

.301 

1.57 

120 

1,965 

XX 

564.20 

228.00 

792.20 

584.86 

489.61 

.18 

.13 

.281 

4.08 

267 

1,768 

XX 

621.56 

296.00 

817.56 

744.11 

592.46 

.25 

.17 

.29 

2.22 

306 

2,276 

XX 

682.80 

336.00 

1.018.80 

893.23 

739.23 

.24 

.18 

.30 

1.96 

261 

2,552 

XX 

765.60 

375.00 

1,140.60 

1,101.09 

824.31 

.28 

.18 

.30 

3.16 

130 

1,450 

XX 

362.50 

291.10 

653.60 

484.59 

372.59 

.13 

.06 

.25 

2.87 

164 

1,200 

XX 

300.00 

257.00 

657.00 

466.93 

36|3.93 

.17 

.08 

.25 

2.22 

'  AveragB. 


,i 


362 


EEPOBT  OF  TAEIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


\ 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF   BOARD   ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


363 


Tablb  XVII. — Net  charge  agednst  wool  per  pound  under  20  cents — Continued. 


Net  charge 

Receipts. 

Expense  on  basis 
of— 

against 
wool  per 
pound  on 
basis  of— 

Pounds 
of  wool. 

Qrade 

of 
wooL 

• 

SeU- 

ing 

price 

per 

pound. 

Num- 
ber of 
abeep. 

From 
WOOL 

From 

other 

soorces. 

Total. 

Market 

price  of 

grain 

and  hay. 

Average 
cost  of 
produc- 
tion of 
grain 
and  hay. 

Mar- 
ket 

price 
of 

grain 
and 

hay. 

Aver- 
age 
cost 
of 

pro- 

auo- 

tion 

of 

grata 
and 

Ex- 
pense 

per 
head. 

hay. 

181 

1,440 

X 

1360.00 

1249.00 

1609.00 

$527.66 

1416.06 

$0.19 

$0.11 

$0.26 

$2.29 

190 

1,500 

XX 

345.00 

316.00 

661.00 

646.16 

495.46 

.22 

.12 

.23 

2.16 

170 

1,520 

XX 

380.00 

230.00 

610.00 

637.70 

421.20 

.20 

.12 

.25 

2.48 

133 

1,400 

XX 

350.00 

168.00 

618.00 

463.78 

352.18 

.21 

.13 

.25 

2.65 

165 

1,101 

XX 

275.25 

321.00 

696.25 

626.02 

480.52 

.28 

.16 

.25 

2.91 

70 

660 

XX 

156.80 

150.00 

306.80 

307.90 

233.30 

.28 

.15 

.28 

3.33 

291 

2,868 

XX 

659.64 

665.50 

1,225.14 

1,396.56 

1,024.55 

.29 

.16 

.23 

3.52 

211 

1,960 

XX 

429.00 

306.00 

734.00 

826.03 

623.03 

.27 

.16 

.22 

2.95 

277 

2,300 

X 

629.00 

389.70 

918.70 

1,031.92 

769.42 

.28 

.16 

.23 

2.78 

1S6 

1,500 

XX 

375.00 

60.00 

425.00 

397. 10 

302.10 

.23 

.17 

.25 

1.94 

858 

2,280 

XX 

647.20 

373.88 

921.08 

934.74 

744.74 

.25 

.17 

.24 

2.89 

01 

600 

XX 

160.00 

78.88 

228.88 

242.87 

184.37 

.27 

.18 

.25 

2.02 

2(^ 

1,920 

XX 

480.00 

306.00 

786.00 

881.34 

668.34 

.30 

.19 

.25 

3.26 

160 

1,000 

XX 

250.00 

220.00 

470.00 

490.54 

416.44 

.27 

.19 

.25 

2.60 

103 

1,800 

XX 

288.00 

440.00 

728.00 

658.18 

482.18 

.12 

.02 

.16 

4.57 

164 

700 

X 

143.50 

230.80 

374.30 

353.92 

280.92 

.18 

.07 

.20^ 

1.71 

90 

900 

XX 

189.00 

206.00 

395.00 

357.83 

273.98 

.17 

.06 

.21 

3.04 

269 

1,800 

XX 

414.00 

336.25 

750.25 

612.56 

484.25 

.15 

.08 

.23 

1.80 

177 

1,400 

XX 

350.00 

280.60 

630.60 

625.44 

401.69 

.18 

.09 

.25 

2.28 

71 

480 

XX 

110.40 

117.00 

227.40 

236.81 

162.81 

.25 

.10 

.23 

2.29 

265 

2,080 

XX 

478.40 

225.00 

703.40 

658.59 

497.09 

.21 

.14 

.23 

1.88 

242 

1,900 

XX 

437.00 

420.00 

857.00 

995.87 

706.07 

.30 

.16 

.23 

2.92 

268 

1,860 

XX 

425.50 

342.00 

767.50 

852.60 

648.50 

.28 

.16 

.23 

2.42 

290 

2,600 

XX 

698.00 

200.00 

798.00 

1, 107. 86 

697.11 

.36 

.16 

.23 

2.06 

111 

900 

XX 

207.00 

140.00 

347.00 

387.00 

279.75 

.27 

.16 

.23 

2.52 

103 

1,060 

XX 

220.60 

78.00 

298.60 

348.03 

262.38 

.26 

.18 

.21 

2.55 

201 

1,780 

XX 

409.40 

200.00 

609.40 

661.84 

534.54 

.26 

.19 

.23 

2.66 

252 

1,474 

XX 

464.31 

187.50 

651.81 

616.46 

361.17 

.22 

.09 

.311 

1.43 

347 

1,532 

XX 

459.60 

332.25 

791.85 

744.31 

525.06 

.27 

.12 

.30 

1.61 

201 

1,193 

XX 

352.00 

147.60 

499.50 

477. 70 

331.70 

.28 

.16 

.29} 

1.65 

67 

476 

XX 

142.50 

45.00 

187.50 

192.82 

124.07 

.31 

.16 

.30 

2.18 

82 

365 

XX 

109.60 

69.60 

169.00 

188.65 

129.45 

.35 

.19 

.30 

1.57 

202 

1,224 

XX 

367.20 

124.50 

491. 70 

695.48 

371.23 

.38 

.19 

.30 

1.83 

424 

3,776 

XX 

944.00 

840.00 

1,784.00 

1,235.67 

871.30 

.10 

.01 

.26 

2.05 

101 

700 

XX 

196.00 

209.50 

406.50 

318.24 

221.56 

.16 

.02 

.28 

2.19 

157 

1,304 

XX 

267.32 

271.60 

638.82 

486.00 

.    335.01 

.16 

.04 

.20§ 

2.13 

74 

460 

XX 

126.70 

126.00 

262.70 

219. 89 

149.56 

.20 

.05 

.27 

2.02 

144 

1,087 

XX 

353.27 

175.00 

628.27 

380.32 

276.51 

.19 

.09 

.321 

1.92 

229 

2,454 

X 

540.00 

350.00 

890.00 

99-;.  21 

699.09 

.26 

.10 

.22 

2.62 

180 

1,465 

XX 

366.25 

182.50 

648.75 

465.89 

346.64 

.19 

.11 

.26 

1.93 

300 

2,500 

XX 

600.00 

378.00 

878.00 

946.84 

654.49 

.22 

.11 

.20 

2.78 

174 

1,136 

XX 

284.00 

143.15 

427.15 

444.77 

297.80 

.26 

.13 

.26 

1.71 

389 

2,453 

XX 

688.72 

388.50 

977.22 

1,006.87 

799.27 

.25 

.16 

.24 

2.06 

262 

1,672 

XX 

376.20 

183.00 

659.20 

620.41 

471.35 

.26 

.17 

.22) 

1.80 

144 

978 

XX 

244.60 

112.50 

357.00 

424.08 

279.39 

.32 

.17 

.25 

1.94 

155 

1,160 

XX 

287.60 

159.80 

447.30 

680.73 

372.31 

.37 

.18 

.26 

2.40 

134 

862 

XX 

172.40 

79.50 

261.90 

376.77 

238.77 

.34 

.18 

.20 

1.92 

172 

735 

XX 

161.70 

117.00 

278.70 

329.80 

261.97 

.29 

.18 

.22 

1.47 

60 

462 

XX 

92.40 

122.26 

214,66 

162.94 

123.78 

.09 

.003 

.20 

2.47 

172 

2,021 

XX 

486.04 

500.00 

986.04 

810.20 

670.03 

.15 

.03 

.24 

3.31 

200 

1,642 

XX 

385.50 

378.26 

763.76 

698.20 

467.35 

.14 

.06 

.25 

2.33 

151 

1,248 

XX 

262.08 

228.00 

490.08 

428.48 

300.36 

.16 

.06 

.21 

1.99 

98 

1,057 

XX 

286.25 

143.20 

428.45 

362.74 

258.38 

.21 

.11 

.27 

2.63 

64 

618 

XX 

136.96 

120.00 

255.96 

286.21 

186.78 

.27 

.11 

.22 

2.92 

IM6 

6,110 

XX 

1,226.40 

913.00 

2, 139. 40 

2,501.67 

1,643.46 

.31 

.14 

.24 

3.02 

75 

637 

XX 

140.14 

104.50 

244.64 

278.59 

213.33 

.27 

.17 

.22 

2.84 

76 

670 

XX 

125.40 

89.76 

215. 16 

267.85 

192.60 

.31 

.18 

.22 

2.53 

26;{ 

1,904 

XX 

400.00 

274.75 

674. 75 

918.39 

648.92 

.34 

.19 

.21 

2.46 

173 

1,384 

XX 

318.32 

186.00 

504.32 

635.42 

447.85 

.32 

.19 

.23 

2.60 

169 

1,100 

XX 

231.00 

345.00 

676.00 

515. 11 

368.86 

.15 

.02 

.21 

2.32 

336 

2,990 

XX 

627.90 

681.50 

1,309.40 

1,285.90 

934.20 

.20 

.08 

.21 

2.78 

193 

950 

XX 

199.50 

225.00 

424.50 

398-40 

309.20 

.18 

.08 

.21 

1.60 

77 

689 

XX 

129.58 

120.00 

249.58 

170.93 

126.35 

.09 

.01 

.22 

2.22 

U 

342 

XX 

66.40 

70.00 

138.40 

106.10 

89.99 

.11 

.06 

.20 

1.4S 

Table  XVII.— Net  charge  against  wool  per  pound  under  20  cmis— Continued. 


Net  charge 

Receipts. 

Expense  on  basis 
of— 

against 
wool  per 
pound  on 
basis  of— 

SeU- 

ing 

price 

per 

pound. 

Aver- 

Ex- 

Knm- 
berof 
iheep. 

Pounds 
of  wool. 

Grade 

of 
wotiL 

"T^               - 

Market 

Average 
Cost  of 

Mar- 
ket 

age 

cost 

of 

pensa 

p«* 

head. 

From 
wool. 

From 

other 

sources. 

Total. 

price  of 

grata 

and  hay. 

produc- 
tion of 
grata 

and  hay. 

price 

of 

grain 

and 

hay. 

pro- 
duc- 
tion 
of 
grain 
and 
hay. 

116 

990 

XX 

$217.80 

$118.50 

$336.30 

$228.68 

$194.88 

$0.11 

$ao7 

$0.22 

$1.68 

97 

710 

XX 

142.00 

93.71 

235.71 

267.27 

200.16 

.24 

.14 

.20 

2.06 

82 

423 

X 

84.60 

45.00 

129.60 

124.45 

105.34 

.19 

.14 

.20 

1.28 

214 

458 

XX 

100.76 

163.60 

254.36 

315.50 

224.44 

.36 

.16 

.22 

1.05 

47 

350 

XX 

87.60 

67.00 

144.50 

184.94 

117.53 

.36 

.16 

.26 

2.50 

110 

789 

XX 

173.68 

83.00 

256.58 

274.06 

216. 49 

.24 

.16 

.22 

1.97 

151 

1,370 

XX 

301.40 

114.00 

415.40 

378.99 

339.89 

.19 

.17 

.22 

2.25 

77 

608 

XX 

111.76 

71.50 

183.26 

212. 67 

158.40 

.28 

.17 

.22 

2.06 

47 

609 

XX 

122.16 

61.00 

173. 16 

208.24 

140.20 

.31 

.18 

.24 

3.00 

166 

816 

XX 

163.20 

84.00 

247.20 

297.49 

242.59 

.26 

.19 

.20 

1.46 

196 

900 

X 

207.00 

378.00 

585.00 

610.80 

456.75 

.26 

.09 

.23 

2.33 

181 

1,300 

XX 

297.80 

316.96 

614.76 

657.24 

404.20 

.26 

.06 

.20 

2.23 

286 

2,574 

XX 

772.20 

422.00 

1,194.20 

797.49 

665.02 

.16 

.06 

.30 

1.98 

166 

1,303 

XX 

391.00 

255.00 

646.00 

634.60 

422.60 

.29 

.13 

.30 

2.54 

813 

4,356 

XX 

1,306.80 

696.75 

1,903.55 

1,504.23 

1,157.63 

.21 

.13 

.30 

1.42 

67 

402 

XX 

120.60 

66,50 

177. 10 

135.26 

119.26 

.20 

.17 

.30 

1.78 

230 

1,512 

XX 

370.44 

172.50 

642.94 

660.21 

422.88 

.26 

.17 

.24* 

1.84 

201 

1,920 

XX 

676.00 

100.00 

676.00 

646.80 

450.68 

.28 

.19 

.30 

2.24 

340 

1,946 

XX 

583.80 

350.00 

933.80 

965.43 

700.87 

.32 

.19 

.30 

2.06 

407 

2,347 

XX 

704.10 

343.74 

1,047.84 

1,120.87 

788.61 

.33 

.19 

.30 

1.94 

101 

956 

XX 

238.75 

298.00 

636.75 

4^.27 

313.33 

.18 

.02 

.25 

3.10 

150 

1,592 

X 

398.00 

426.00 

824.00 

682.51 

621.61 

.16 

.06 

.25 

3.48 

235 

2,132 

X 

533.00 

405.00 

938.00 

787,26 

639.98 

.18 

.06 

.25 

2.30 

67 

490 

XX 

122.50 

113.90 

236.40 

241.09 

146.34 

.26 

.07 

.25 

2.18 

111 

1,200 

X 

300.00 

218.50 

618.50 

457.82 

342.77 

.20 

.11 

.25 

3.09 

96 

780 

XX 

195.00 

202.50 

397.50 

369.30 

284.80 

.21 

.11 

.25 

2.96 

99 

920 

XX 

230.00 

202.00 

432.00 

616. 14 

303.87 

.34 

.11 

.25 

3.07 

216 

2,030 

XX 

538.00 

241.21 

779.21 

676.57 

486.57 

.21 

.12 

.26J 

2.25 

247 

2,100 

XX 

625.00 

359.65 

884.65 

951.29 

683.75 

.28 

.15 

.26 

2.77 

212 

2,250 

XX 

606.25 

750.00 

1,256.25 

1,030.31 

780.12 

.12 

.01 

.22J 

3.68 

191 

1,455 

XXX 

407.40 

308.00 

715.40 

649.08 

626,79 

.23 

.14 

.28 

2.76 

80 

336 

XX 

94.08 

90.00 

184.08 

195.13 

142.73 

.31 

.16 

.28 

1.78 

267 

1,800 

XX 

540.00 

380.00 

920.00 

858.86 

683,79 

.27 

.18 

.30 

2.56 

65 

640 

XX 

115.20 

170.40 

285,60 

228.68 

175. 13 

.09 

.01 

.18 

2.79 

173 

1,400 

XX 

350.00 

408.00 

758.00 

572.82 

428.77 

.12 

.01 

.25 

2.48 

175 

1,260 

XX 

275.00 

464.00 

739.00 

664.02 

496.52 

.16 

.03 

.22 

2.84 

66 

710 

XX 

163.30 

184.50 

347.80 

298.51 

218.21 

.16 

.05 

.23 

3.31 

51 

372 

X 

79.98 

131.50 

211.48 

208.98 

148.81 

.21 

.06 

.21i 

2.92 

220 

1,104 

XX 

253.92 

476.60 

730.52 

730.99 

532.94 

.23 

.06 

.23 

2.42 

203 

2,500 

X 

525.00 

625.00 

1,050.00 

940.18 

682.51 

.17 

.06 

.21 

3.36 

96 

680 

XX 

142.80 

160.00 

302.80 

263,30 

212.05 

.15 

.07 

.21 

2.21 

87 

783 

XX 

168.34 

166.70 

335.04 

315.46 

231.66 

.19 

.09 

.21i 

2.66 

182 

1,508 

X 

346.84 

344.10 

690.94 

692.51 

609.16 

.23 

.11 

.23 

2.79 

114 

1,026 

XX 

225.72 

158.75 

384.47 

373.33 

285.13 

.21 

.13 

.22 

2.50 

158 

870 

XX 

191.40 

380.16 

671.56 

688.54 

494.54 

.35 

.13 

.22 

3.13 

133 

1,243 

XX 

273.46 

219.60 

492.96 

417.30 

311,84 

.16 

.07 

.22 

2,36 

226 

1,304 

XX 

260.80 

390.60 

651.30 

695.60 

404.92 

.16 

.01 

.20 

2.26 

31,673 

248,519 

61,391.89 

46,451.60 

106,843.49 

103,396.28 

74,661.12 

1.23 

».12 

1.24 

12.36 

t  Average. 


364 


BBPOBT  OF  TAEIFF  BOAED  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 
Table  XVIII. — Net  credit  to  wool  per  pound. 


\ 


BEPOBT  OF   TABIFF  BOABD   ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


365 


Net  credit  to 

Ponnda 
of  WOOL 

Orade 

Of 

WOOL 

Beoefpts. 

Expense  OQ  basis 

wool  per 
pound  on 
oasis  of— 

Sell- 

ing 

price 

per 

pound. 

Ex- 
pense 

per 
head 

i 

Nnm- 
ber  of 
sheep. 

From 
wool. 

From 

other 

aouroes. 

TotaL 

Market 

price  of 

grain 

and  hay. 

Average 

cost  01 

produc- 
tion of 
grain 

and  hay. 

Mar- 
ket 
Iffice 

of 

grain 

and 

hay. 

Aver- 
age 
cost 
of 

pro- 
duc- 
tion 
of 
grain 
and 

hay. 

1 

85 

850 

XX 

1170.00 

t217.44 

S387.44 

$290.45 

|201.95's0.09 

+10.01 

SO.  20 

S2.38 

135 

1,266 

X 

278.30 

375.00 

653.30 

457.86 

364.36 

.07 

+    .01 

.22 

2.70 

33 

219 

XX 

60.23 

90.00 

160.23 

105.26 

75.01 

.07 

+    .07 

.274 

2.27 

119 

960 

X 

225.60 

503.80 

729.40 

417.54 

305.04+.09 

+    .21 

.23A 

2.56 

88 

^'2^ 

X 

264.00 

300.00 

564.00 

387.79 

269.54 

.08 

+    .03 

.25 

3.06 

71 

232 

XX 

51.00 

81.00 

132.00 

87.44 

61.19 

.03 

+    .09 

.22 

.86 

2m 

3,475 

XX 

764.50 

1,245.01 

2,009.51 

1,250.27 

963.92 

.002 

+    .08 

.22 

3.58 

142 

1,150 

XX 

287.50 

400.00 

687.50 

491. 16 

368.66 

.08 

+    .03 

.25 

2.59 

176 

1,630 

XX 

374.90 

617.00 

991.90 

791.99 

608.29 

.10 

+    .02 

.23 

3.46 

133 

1,800 

X 

450.00 

455.00 

906.00 

668.04 

430.54 

.06 

+    .01 

.25 

3.16 

58 

484 

XX 

113.20 

144.00 

257.20 

186.19 

121.60 

.09 

+    .05 

/    .30 

I  ..22 

.29 

}  2.10 
1.67 

167 

1,198 

XX 

347.42 

280.44 

627.86 

336.26 

279.26 

.05 

+    .01 

53 

236 

XX 

49. 56 

132.00 

181.56 

117.11 

86.21 

+.06 

+    .19 

.21 

1.63 

135 

1,500 

XX 

345.00 

821.00 

1,166.00 

800.24 

668.07 

+.01 

+    .17 

.23 

4.13 

129 

636 

XX 

137.85 

310.00 

447.85 

430.87 

303.62 

.19 

+     .01 

.21J 

2.35 

51 

400 

X 

96.00 

275  00 

371.00 

278.60 

»       224.85 

.01 

+    .13 

.24 

4.41 

100 

900 

XX 

225.00 

382.00 

607.00 

382.50 

272.10 

.006 

+    .12 

.26 

2.72 

99 

924 

XX 

231.00 

517.00 

748.00 

615.22 

471.67 

+.11 

+     .05 

.25 

4.76 

254 

2,350 

XX 

587.50 

750.00 

1,337.50 

991.70 

718.01 

.10 

+    .01 

.25 

2.83 

144 

750 

XX 

165.00 

461.88 

626.88 

517.29 

373.00 

+.08 

+    .11 

.22 

2.59 

168 

1,200 

XX 

270.00 

647.00 

917.00 

804.30 

671.90 

.13 

+     .06 

.22i 

3.40 

91 

652 

X 

143.44 

257.60 

401.04 

331.70 

239.  76 

.11 

+    .03 

.22 

2.63 

81 

810 

XX 

178.20 

249.44 

427.64 

330.82 

253.52 

.10 

+     .01 

.22 

3.13 

110 

798 

XX 

159.60 

347.20 

506.80 

328.22 

274.89 

+.02 

+     .09 

.20 

2.50 

119 

560 

X 

128.80 

296.74 

425.54 

348.28 

281.46 

.09 

+     .03 

.23 

2.37 

206 

1,776 

X 

363.87 

640.00 

903.87 

639.03 

494.64 

.06 

+     .02 

.201 

2.38 

96 

790 

X 

158.00 

236.00 

394.00 

276.22 

170.72 

.05 

+     .09 

.20 

1.80 

48 

340 

X 

85.00 

149.50 

234.50 

176. 71 

131. 15 

.08 

+    .05 

.25 

2.73 

*  fl 

77 

648 

XX 

149.00 

245.00 

394.00 

298.84 

199.34 

+.08 

+    .08 

.23 

2.50 

3,438 

29,588 

6,869.47 

11,328.06 

18,185.52 

13,037.90 

9,674.27 

».02 

1+   .06 

1.23 

»2.81 

Avera^ 


.M 


PRODUCTION    OF   WOOL   PROM   CROSSBRED   SHEEP  IN   OHIO   REGION. 

Table  XIX. — Mill  grade  of  fleeces  mostly  three-eighths  and  one-quarter  blood. 


Net  charge 

against  or 

Eftceipts— 

Expense  on  basis  of— 

net  credit 
to  wool  per 

pound  on 
basis  of— 

• 

Sell- 
ing 
price 
per 
potmd. 

Num- 
ber of 
Bbeep. 

Pounds 
of  wooL 

Market 

Average 
cost  of 

Mar- 
ket 

Aver- 
age 
cost 
of 

Ex- 
pense 

per 
head. 

« 

From  wool. 

From  other 
sources. 

Total. 

price  of 

^ainand 

hay. 

produc- 
tion of 
grain  and 
hay. 

price 

of 

grain 

and 

pro- 
duc- 
tion 
of 

hay. 

grain 
and 

hay. 

880 

600 

tl32.00 

$54.00 

$186.00 

$365.47 

$272. 47 

$0.52 

$0.36 

$0.22 

$3.10 

331 

1,133 

243.60 

350.00 

593.60 

912. 81 

798.91 

.49 

.39 

.21 J 

2.41 

76 

362 

87.00 

120.00 

207.00 

310.86 

249.85 

.53 

.37 

.24 

3.29 

325 

2,850 

655.50 

109.80 

765.30 

1, 492. 30 

1,005.70 

.48 

.31 

.23 

3.09 

112 

728 

160.00 

288.00 

448. 00 

699.19 

528.44 

.57 

.33 

.22 

4.72 

272 

1,213 

351.77 

670.00 

1,021.77 

1,173.18 

1,030.44 

.42 

.30 

.29 

3.79 

153 

1,150 

264.50 

192.00 

456.50 

823.08 

530.51 

.55 

.29 

.23 

3.47 

233 

1,600 

368.00 

400.00 

768.00 

1,032.06 

794.46 

.40 

.25 

.23 

3.41 

144 

1,219 

280.37 

375.00 

655.37 

957.35 

714.90 

.48 

.28 

.23 

4.28 

161 

980 

220.60 

250.00 

470.50 

602.02 

455.52 

.36 

.21 

.22i 

3.02 

77 

525 

126.00 

138.00 

264.00 

310. 75 

246.75 

.33 

.21 

.24 

3.20 

102 

612 

150.00 

200.00 

350.00 

495.36 

347.06 

.48 

.24 

.24i 

3.40 

251 

1,470 

390.00 

584.00 

974.00 

1,252.35 

932.60 

.45 

.24 

.25 

3.72 

965 

6,250 

1,562.60 

1,400.00 

2,962.50 

3,402.78 

2,873.78 

.32 

.24 

.25 

2.98 

70 

342 

75.24 

96.83 

172.07 

226.81 

177.52 

.38 

.23 

.22 

2.54 

175 

800 

184.00 

214.00 

398.00 

492. 40 

370.73 

.35 

.20 

.23 

2.12 

344 

2,428 

658.44 

593.28 

1,151.72 

819.38 

627.68 

.09 

.01 

.23 

1.82 

63 

367 

84.41 

95.00 

179.41 

227.11 

167.86 

.36 

.19 

.23 

2.66 

80 

600 

125.00 

140.00 

265.00 

188.99 

172.  48 

.10 

.06 

.25 

2.16 

•  244 

1,700 

425.00 

530.00 

955.00 

831.10 

634.60 

.18 

.07 

.25 

2.60 

49 

258 

64.50 

143.00 

207.50 

196.89 

154.65 

.21 

.04 

.25 

3.16 

230 

1,380 

386.40 

459.00 

845.40 

708.72 

554.72 

.18 

.07 

.28 

2.41 

116 

950 

237.50 

426.00 

663.50 

578.96 

432.56 

.16 

.01 

.25 

3.73 

80 

585 

146.25 

185.00 

331.25 

252.30 

190.35 

.12 

.01 

.25 

2.38 

210 

980 

225.40 

326.50 

551.90 

493.93 

383.43 

.17 

.05 

.23 

1.83 

70 

400 

92.00 

142.00 

234.00 

233.16 

173. 91 

.23 

.08 

.23 

2.48 

284 

1,680 

394.80 

400.00 

794.80 

705.14 

567.14 

.18 

.10 

.23i 

2.00 

216 

1,250 

287.50 

330.00 

617.50 

632.66 

481.41 

.23 

.11 

.23 

2.23 

.  317 

1,480 

333.00 

276.00 

609.00 

601.17 

454.67 

.22 

.12 

.22i 

1.43 

121 

525 

105.00 

277.00 

382.00 

474.37 

348.12 

.38 

.14 

.20 

2.88 

132 

1,040 

239.20 

150.00 

389.20 

418. 10 

305.  40 

.26 

.16 

.23 

2.31 

121 

614 

141.22 

125.40 

266.62 

299.60 

221.60 

.28 

.16 

.23 

1.83 

233 

1,111 

276. 35 

456.00 

732.35 

794.85 

661.61 

.31 

.19 

.21 

2.84 

136 

1,088 

272.00 

270.00 

642.00 

339.66 

292.26 

.06 

.02 

.25 

2.15 

82 

460 

115.00 

195.00 

310.00 

246.72 

287.65 

.11 

.03 

.25 

3.26 

73 

590 

147.50 

150.00 

297.50 

200.70 

175. 76 

.09 

.04 

.25 

2.41 

1,840 

11,700 

2,925.00 

4,500.00 

7,425.00 

6,478.10 

6, 192. 60 

.17 

.06 

.25 

2.82 

117 

800 

200.00 

358.00 

558.00 

567.20 

410.60 

.26 

.07 

.25 

3.51 

113 

820 

205.00 

362.50 

567.50 

561.56 

437. 92 

.24 

.09 

.25 

3.88 

41 

330 

76.00 

170.00 

246.00 

256.39 

205.71 

.26 

.11 

.23 

6.02 

101 

810 

162.00 

265.00 

427.00 

465.30 

371. 02 

.25 

.13 

.20 

3.67 

248 

1,205 

228.95 

532.12 

761.07 

893.31 

608.00 

.30 

.07 

.19 

2.45 

151 

1,007 

231.61 

355.75 

587.36 

495. 24 

455.44 

.13 

.09 

.23 

3.02 

100 

837 

192. 51 

375.00 

567.51 

416.93 

376.83 

.05 

.002 

.23 

3.76 

39 

312 

81.12 

175.08 

256.20 

226.12 

182.  77 

.16 

.02 

.26 

4.69 

75 

562 

140.50 

237.00 

377.50 

320.67 

268.54 

.15 

.06 

.25 

3.58 

58 

280 

64.40 

139.30 

203.70 

186.76 

173. 16 

.17 

.12 

.23 

2.99 

75 

500 

110.00 

162.00 

272.00 

216.60 

166.06 

.11 

.01 

.22 

2.21 

122 

793 

198.25 

641.00 

739.25 

695.33 

566.35 

.19 

.03 

.25 

4.64 

181 

1,629 

407.25 

1,200.00 

1,607.25 

1,409.29 

1,201.81 

.13 

.001 

.25 

6.64 

96 

450 

90.00 

425.00 

515.00 

277.65 

190. 65 

+.33 

+.52 

.20 

1.99 

S38 

3,300 

825.00 

889. 00 

1,714.00 

1, 100. 22 

832.72 

.06 

+.02 

.25 

2.46 

198 

1,600 

352.00 

626.00 

978.00 

63L34 

655.34 

.003 

+  .04 

.22 

2.80 

314 

2,590 

647.60 

1,000.00 

1,647.50 

1,053.80 

835.80 

.02 

+  .06 

.25 

2.66 

157 

544 

163.20 

541.84 

905.04 

400.61 

282.11 

+.26 

+.47 

.30 

L80 

144 

1.150 

287.50 

624.00 

911.50 

879.75 

590.11 

.22 

+.03 

.25 

4.10 

160 

1,200 

300.00 

600.00 

900.00 

706.35 

573.85 

.09 

+.02 

.25 

3.59 

102 

600 

168.00 

325.00 

493.00 

376.60 

301.40 

.09 

+.49 

.22 

2.96 

124 

724 

166.52 

812.50 

979. 02 

529.22 

462.50 

+.39 

+.48 

.25 

3.73 

155 

1,250 

287.60 

808.00 

1,095.50 

639.75 

468.98 

+.13 

+  .26 

.23 

3.03 

108 

618 

135.96 

428.00 

563.96 

476.25 

395.75 

.08 

+.05 

.22 

3.84 

142 

568 

124.96 

687.20 

812. 16 

452.67 

289.67 

+.06 

+.35 

.22 

2.04 

366 


BEPOET  OF   TABIFP  BOABB  ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


Table  XIX.— Mill  grade  of  fleeces  mostly  three-eighths  and  one-quarter  blood— Continued, 


\ 


KEPORT   OF   TARIFF   BOARD   ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


367 


Num- 
ber 
of 

aheep. 


( 


166 
217 

117 

92 

103 

127 

216 
63 
610 
330 
208 
379 

100 

137 

155 

70 

146 

228 
153 

229 

m 

183 

156 
91 

125 

995 
45 

100 
57 

819 

61 
198 

51 

63 

33 
194 
145 
150 
204 
104 

80 
325 
689 

53 
201 

32 

25 

50 
2Si 

88 
213 

85 

40 

69 
159 

95 

139 

29 

228 

228 

66 

111 

35 


Receipts- 


Pounds 
of  wool. 


From  wool. 


648 
1,325 
798 
610 
750 
810 
1,358 
450 
2,856 
2,738 
2,868 
3,200 
1,670 
800 
1,025 
1,273 
600 
11,376 
1,200 
900 
738 
1,361 
1,283 
1,155 
1,400 
378 

4,025 
190 
650 
&10 
2,000 
400 
1,200 
350 
171 
256 
1,440 
1,100 
1,050 
1,177 
740 
540 
1,550 
3,445 
318 
1,200 
176 
125 
355 
1,750 
315 
900 
552 
350 
412 
520 
697 
790 
216 
624 
773 
466 
357 


1174.96 
291.50 
191. 52 
146.40 
172.50 
188.32 
298.76 
94.50 
656.88 
711.88 
458.88 
704.00 
417.50 
180.00 
235.75 
264.77 
138.00 
2,844.00 
276.00 
225.00 
221.40 
306.22 
282.26 
231.00 
308.00 
94.50 
131.66 
1,006.25 
43.70 
165.75 
135.00 
460.00 
104.00 
300.00 
84.00 
42.75 
&1.00 
360.  {» 
275.00 
262.  50 
211.  86 
177.60 
135.00 
372.00 
826.80 
76.  32 
300.00 
52.80 
28.75 
106.35 
393.06 
78.75 
252L00 
135.60 
84.00 
9176 
124.80 
170.  76 
181. 70 
54.00 
143.52 
193.12 
107.07 
82.11 

oaoo 


From  other 
sources. 


1636.80 
785.00 
425.00 
299.20 
470.00 
1,002.00 
1,134.00 
130.00 
1,113.92 
324.11 
450.00 
1,756.00 
262.00 
90.00 
363.50 
220.00 
112.00 
4,300.00 
500.00 
761.00 
366.00 
783.00 
750.06 
557.45 
573. 18 
138.02 
264.39 
6,016.10 
1G8.00 
583.00 
600.00 
1,106.50 
235.00 
795.00 
199.00 
172.00 
240.00 
910.00 
621.00 
609.00 
665.00 
570.00 
310.00 
1,604.70 
3,184.34 
237.00 
668.75 
192.00 
160.25 
239.20 
1,326.00 

630.00 

194.98 

214.25 

283.00 

345.12 

326.83 

496.00 

I06.I7 

780.00 

5ai.00 

250.00 

272  21 

200.00 


Total. 


1811.76 
1,076.50 
616. 52 
445.60 
642.50 
1,190.32 
1,432.76 
224.50 
1,770.80 
1,035.99 
908.88 
2,460.00 
679.50 
270.00 
599.25 
484.77 
250.00 
7,144.00 
776.00 
986.00 
587.40 
1,089.22 
1,032.26 
788.45 
881.18 
232.52 
395. 95 
6,222.35 
211. 70 
748.75 
735.00 
1,566.60 
339.00 
1,095.00 
283.00 
214.75 
304.00 
1,270.00 
896.00 
871.50 
876.86 
747.60 
445.00 
1,976.70 
4,011. 14 
313. 32 
96S.75 
244.80 
189.00 
345.55 
1,719.06 
357.55 
882.00 
330.58 
298.25 
377.76 
469.92 
497.  59 
677.  70 
210.17 
923.52 
717. 12 
357.07 
354.32 
260.00 


Expense  on  basis  of— 


Market 

price  of 

grain  and 

hay. 


t660.90 
756.69 
629.91 
232. 46 
296.81 
518.25 
847.15 
291.06 
1,840.91 
1,150.75 
1,073.60 
1,231.77 
619. 05 
299.79 
518. 49 
607.79 
257.00 
6,158.03 
500.06 
762. 15 
661.  21 
764.28 
734. 78 
601.35 
492. 94 
190.35 
411.84 
3,993.19 
119.  48 
351.60 
469.40 
1,179.76 
243.45 
1,001.  36 
264.78 
196.49 
201.53 
872.95 
541,31 
671. 75 
833.04 
660.20 
345.82 
600.60 
1,171.41 
128.17 
607.74 
140.84 
136.86 
203.55 
1,657.56 
293.77 
721.74 
267.86 
177.17 
262.43 
422.77 
373.65 
544.20 
114.48 
474.34 
672.53 
227.67 
217.64 
119. 10  I 


Net  charge 
against  or 
net  credit 

to  wool  per 
pound  on 
basis  of— 


Average 
cost  of 
produc- 
tion of 
grain  and 
hay. 


Mar- 
ket 

price 
of 

grain 
and 

hay. 


Aver- 
age 
cost 
of 

Jro- 
uc- 
tlon 
of 
grain 
and 
hay. 


1427.88 
566.69 
421.11 
206.76 
261.11 
491. 11 
514.28 
201.60 
1, 198. 41 
761. 75 
880.80 
951. 77 
493.75 
213.29 
353.82 
471. 16 
185.63 
4,818.63 
386.11 
585.20 
478. 14 
648.34 
519. 98 
522.78 
365. 61 
156.19 
316. 19 
3, 157. 98 
90.33 
264.40 
37a  65 
740.85 
183.64 
711.61 
194.58 
151. 17 
153.98 
639.70 
426.76 
613.  95 
686.92 
516.20 
27^82 
622.00 
1,058.61 

110. 17 
607.74 
107.67 
116.17 
151.68 

1,207.18 

211. 18 
520.00 
192.68 
154.44 
222.43 
325.22 
317.  00 
452.00 

89.07 
471.  54 
616.05 
175. 56 
229.36 
103.84 


10.19 
+.02 
.13 
+.11 
.30 
+.60 
.36 
.36 
.25 
.30 
.22 
+.16 
.25 
.26 
.15 
.30 
.23 
.16 
.01 
.001 
.40 
+.01 
+.01 
.11 
+.06 
.14  I 
.25 
+.25 
+.26 
+.36 
+.24 
.04 
.02 
.17 
.19 
.14 
+.15 
+.03 
+.07 
.06 
.14 
.12 
.07 
+.65 
+.58 
+.34 
+.05 
+.29 
+.18 
+.10 
.13 
.05 
.10 
.13 
+.11 
+.06 
.15 
.07 
.06 
+.19 
+.49 
.06 
+.05 
+.15 
+.34 


+•0.17 
+    .16 


Sell- 
ing 
price 
per 
pound 


+ 


+ 

+ 
+ 
+ 
+ 


+ 

+ 

+ 

+ 

+ 

+ 

+ 

+ 

+ 

+ 

+ 

+ 

+ 

+ 

+ 

+ 

+ 

+ 

+ 

+ 

+ 

+ 

+ 

+ 

+ 

+ 

+ 

+ 

+ 

+ 

+ 

+ 

+ 

+ 

+ 

+ 

+ 

+ 


.0041 

.15 

.27 

.63 

.45 

.16 

.03 

.15 

.14 

.25 

.13 

.15 

.09 

.19 

.11 

.04 

.09 

.20 

.15 

.17 

.18 

.03 

.15 

.06 

.09 

.46 

.41 

.49 

.41 

.18 

.13 

.07 

.01 

.12 

.33 

.19 

.17 

.09 

.07 

.07 

.06 

.70 

.62 

.40 

.13 

.48 

.34 

.26 

.07 

.21 

.13 

.01 

.17 

.15 

.04 

.01 

.05 

.30 

.50 

.01 

.17 

.12 

.40 


10.27 
.22 
.24 
.24 
.23 
.23 
.22 
.21 
.23 
.  26 
.16 
.22 
.25 
.224 
.23 
.22 
.23 
.25 
.23 
.26 
.30 
.22i 
.22 
.20 
.22 
.25 
.22 
.25 
.23 
.25J 
.25 
.23 
.26 
.25 
.24 
.25 
.26 
.25 
.25 
.25 
.18 
.24 
.25 
.24 
.24 
.24 
.25 
.30 
.23 
.30 
.22 
.25 
.28 
.24 
.24 
.23 
.24 
.24} 
.23 
.25 
.23 
.25 
.23 
.23 
,25 


Ex- 
pense 

per 
head. 


S2.58 
2.61 
3.60 
2.25 
2.54 
3.87 
2.38 
3.20 
2.35 
2.31 
4.23 
2.51 
2.19 
2.13 
2.58 
3.04 
2.65 
3.05 
2.64 
2.57 
3.13 
2.39 
4.44 
2.86 
2.34 
1.72 
2.53 
3.17 
2.01 
2.64 
6.61 
2.32 
3.01 
3.59 
3.82 
2.40 
4.67 
3.30 
2.95 
3.43 
2.87 
4.96 
3.49 
1.61 
1.54 
2.08 
2.49 
3.36 
4.65 
3.03 
4.25 
2.40 
2.44 
2.27 
3.86 
3.22 
2.05 
3.34 
3.2s 
3.07 
2.07 
4.46 
2.66 
2  07 
2.97 


Table  XIX. — Mill  grade  of  fleeces  mostly  three-eighths  and  one-quarter  blood — Continued. 


Net  charge 

against  or 

Receipts— 

Expense  on  basis  of— 

net  credit  to 
wool  per 
pound  on 
basis  of— 

SeU- 
ing 

Num- 

Pounds 

Aver- 

Ex- 
pease 

per 
head. 

ber  of 

of 

age 

price 

aheep. 

wool. 

Market 

Average 
cost  of 

Mar- 
ket 

cost 
of 

per 
IMund. 

From  wool. 

From  other 
sources. 

Total. 

price  of 

Ijainand 

hay. 

produc- 
tion of 
grain  and 
hay. 

price 

of 

grain 

and 

pro- 

duo- 

tlon 

of 

hay. 

grain 

and 

hay. 

86 

342 

185  50 

$160.00 

$245.60 

$153. 82 

$124.22 

+$ao2 

+$0  10 

$a25 

$3.45 

87 

330 

66.00 

176.00 

242.00 

171. 61 

148.86 

+    .01 

+    .08 

.20 

4.02 

110 

625 

99.75 

610.00 

709.75 

664.85 

620.60 

.10 

+    .18 

.19 

4.73 

51 

382 

95.50 

240.35 

335.85 

232.43 

198.65 

+    .02 

+    .11 

.25 

3.90 

66 

520 

135.20 

365.00 

500.20 

418. 61 

339.11 

.10 

+    .05 

.26 

£.14 

46 

354 

81.42 

188.00 

269.42 

202.93 

184.11 

.04 

+    .01 

.23 

4.00 

TO 

660 

134.40 

330.53 

464.93 

322.83 

239.95 

+    .01 

+    .16 

.24 

3.43 

433 

2,856 

714.00 

1,768.80 

2,482.80 

1,618.12 

1,411.18 

+    .05 

+    .12 

.25 

3.26 

25,990 

159,396 

38,061.69 

76,018.05 

114,099.74 

92,771.05 

72,225.05 

.11 

+    .02 

.24 

2.78 

The  statistics  contained  in  the  foregoing  tables  are  further  sum- 
marized in  the  following  statements; 


If 
if 


368 


EEPOBT  or  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


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KEPOST  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDUI-E  K, 


371 


These  tables  show  that  the  smallest  group  is  that  in  which  the  net 
charge  against  wool  per  pound  is  highest,  that  is,  over  35  cents  a 
pound,  and  that  the  largest  group  is  that  in  which  the  net  chaise 
against  wool  is  lowest,  that  is,  under  20  cents  per  pound.  It  will  be 
noticed  that  the  proportion  of  the  total  number  of  cases,  of  sheep, 
and  of  pounds  of  wool,  respectively  represented  by  any  one  group, 
steadily  increases  as  the  net  charge  against  a  pound  of  wool  decreases. 
Table  XVil,  comprising  the  largest  group,  shows  43  per  cent  of  the 
flocks,  39  per  cent  of  the  sheep,  and  42  per  cent  of  the  wool  cHp.  These 
percentages  are  about  double  those  of  any  other  group,  and  the  net 
charge  against  wool,  which  varies  from  2  mills  to  19  cents,  is,  on  an 
average,  12  cents  per  pound.  Since  the  average  selling  price  is  24 
cents  a  pound  for  this  table  there  is  left  a  margin  of  pront  for  every 
grower  included. 

Table  VI  includes  those  cases  m  which  the  receipts  from  sources 
other  than  wool  (sales  of  sheep  and  value  of  unsold  lambs)  equal  or 
exceed  the  expenses,  thus  giving  a  net  credit  per  pound  of  wool. 
Tills  group  includes  the  superior  merino  flocks,  where  purebred  and 
high-grade  lambs  are  being  raised  for  stock  purposes,  and  also  those 
flocks  where  there  are  also  considerable  sales  of  mutton.  The  re- 
maining cases  in  which  the  operations  result  in  a  net  credit  per 
pound  of  wool  appear  in  Table  XIX.  These  are  chiefly  crossbred 
flocks  where  the  receipts  from  the  sales  oi  mutton  are  of  pa^^mount 
importance. 

The  receipts  from  other  sources,  which  include  the  returns  from  sales 
of  sheep  and  lambs  and  the  value  of  unsold  lamha  which  have  gone  in 
to  maintain  tlie  flock,  bear  almost  the  same  proportion  to  the  total  re- 
ceipts in  each  of  the  first  four  tables ;  in  Tables  XVII  and  XVIII,  where 
the  net  charge  against  a  pound  of  wool  becomes  very  low  or  disappears 
altogether,  they  show  a  decided  mcrease,  rishag  to  62  per  cent  in  the 
case  of  Table  XVIII. 

It  is  mteresting  to  note  that  the  variations  in  the  selling  price  cor- 
respond to  some  extent  with  the  variations  in  the  net  chaise  against  a 
pound  of  wool.  Table  XIII  shows  the  highest  seUing  price  andhas  also 
the  highest  net  charge  per  pound,  and  Table  XVIII,  having  the  lowest 
net  charge  per  pound,  has  also  the  lowest  selling  price.  This  variation 
IS  explained  on  the  ground  that  the  farmers  who  are  getting  a  high 
pnce  uniformly  wash  their  wool,  which  increases  the  price  obtained 
from  3  to  5  cents  per  pound. 

The  wide  variation  from  Table  XIII  to  Table  X\^II  in  the  net  charge 
agamst  wool  depends  in  the  mam  upon  certain  conditions  which  have 
already  been  discussed— the  particular  sort  of  flock  kept,  whether 
crossbred  or  pure  wool;  whether  woolgroning  is  combmed  with 
breeding;  the  importance  for  different  purjwses  of  the  annual  increase 
of  lambs;  the  extent  to  which  wethers  are  kept;  the  amount  and 
quality  of  wool  produced,  and  the  methods  employed  in  the  farm 
operations. 

An  mspeetion  of  the  average  net  charge  per  head  for  each  of  the  seven 
tables,  which  appears  m  a  tabular  statement  below,  shows  that  in  the 
table  where  there  is  a  net  credit  to  wool  per  pound  the  net  charge  per 
head  is  the  same  as  m  the  tables  m  which  the  net  charge  is  highest, 
namely,  Tables  Xni  and  XVIII,  while  in  Table  XIX  it  is  almost  a^ 
high. 


372 


BEPOBT  OF   TAMFF  BOABD  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


REPOET  OF   TAEIFF  BOAED   ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


373 


It  will  also  bo  seen  that  at  the  point  where  the  profitableness  of 
the  industry  begins,  namely,  in  Table  XVI,  the  charge  per  head  is 
lowest  and  rises  from  this  point  as  the  profits  increase. 


Net  charge  i>er  pound  of  wool. 

Net 

charge 

per  head. 

Receipts  per  head. 

Table. 

Wool. 

Other 
sources. 

Total. 

XIII 

35  cents  and  above 

$2.81 
2.m 
2.50 
2.27 
2.30 
2.81 
2.78 

$1.64 

i.ra 

1.77 
1.89 
1.94 
1.99 
1.47 

10.46 

.51 

.71 

.77 

1.44 

3.29 

2.93 

$2.10 
2.24 
2.49 
2  fin 

XIV 

30  cents  and  under  35  cents 

XV 

25  cents  and  under  30  cents 

XVI 

20  cents  and  under  25  cents 

XVII 

Under  20  cents 

3.38 
5.29 
4.38 

XVIII 

Net  credit 

XIX 

Crossbred 

Of  the  135  crossbred  flocks  represented,  121,  or  90  per  cent,  show 
receipts  from  other  sources  which  equal  or  exceed  the  receipts  from 
wool,  and  on  an  average  for  all  these  flocks  the  receipts  from  other 
sources  constitute  about  two-thirds  of  the  total  receipts.  Of  the 
408  merino  flocks,  on  the  other  hand,  only  74,  or  18  per  cent,  show 
receipts  from  other  sources  which  equal  or  exceed  the  receipts  from 
wool;  while  about  one-half  show  receipts  from  otlier  sources  ranging 
from  22  to  29  per  cent  of  the  total  receipts,  and  on  an  average  for  all 
the  merino  flocks,  the  receipts  from  other  sources  constitute  a  little 
less  than  one-third  of  the  total  receipts. 

In  tlie  case  of  crossbred  flocks  the  receipts  from  other  sources  are 
derived  almost  entirely  from  mutton,  and  since  the  schedules  show 
but  few  mature  sheep  sold  except  the  ewes  culled  from  the  flock, 
such  receipts  must  consist  mainly  of  returns  from  sales  of  fat  lambs. 
The  wool  sold  is  chiefly  from  the  breeding  ewes,  as  but  few  or  no 
wethers  are  kept. 

In  the  case  of  the  merino  flocks,  on  the  other  hand,  any  considerable 
receipts  from  other  sources  arise  from  sales,  not  of  mutton,  but  of 
stock  sheep.  It  should,  however,  be  pointe^  out  that  the  board  has 
endeavored  not  to  include  in  these  calculations  flocks  kept  especially 
for  supplying  registered  breeding  stock. 

That  the  growers  of  this  region  are  depending  mainly  on  wool 
is  further  shown  by  the  fact  that  of  the  total  number  of  merino 
sheep  reported  in  the  schedules  21  per  cent  are  wethers.  The  per- 
centages for  certain  typical  merino  counties  are  as  follows: 

Belmont  County,  Ohio,  40  per  cent;  Coshocton  County,  Ohio,  25 
per  cent;  Harrison  County,  Ohio,  36  per  cent;  Green  County,  Pa., 
43  per  cent;  Marshall  County,  W,  Va.,  34  per  cent. 

Since  the  only  source  of  regular  income  from  wethers  is  wool  and 
the  costs  of  maintenance  are  not  materially  lower  than  for  breeding 
ewes,  it  is  evident  that  though  the  fleece  of  the  wethers  may  be  superior 
to  that  of  the  ewes  the  higher  the  proportion  of  wethers  in  a  flocJk  the 
greater  is  likely  to  be  the  net  charge  against  wool,  since  under  the  con- 
ditions now  prevailing  in  this  region,  the  tables  indicate  that  the 
fleece  of  a  sheep  alone  does  not  pay  for  its  maintenance. 

The  average  total  cost  of  maintenance  per  head  is  $2.78  in  the  case 
of  the  crossbred  flocks  and  $2.44  in  the  case  of  the  merino  flocks. 
The  greater  expense  of  maintaining  the  crossbred  sheep  is  due  prob- 
ably to  the  fact  that  they  are  naturaUy  larger  feeders  than  the  straight 


■ 


merinos  and  partly  to  the  fact  that  mutton  production  reguires 
heavier  feeding  than  wool  production.  That  the  difference  is  not 
greater  is  attributable  to  the  fact  that  some  of  the  merino  flocks 
represent  a  superior  type,  kept  partly  with  a  view  to  the  sale  of  stock 
sheep,  and  to  the  further  fact  that  the  crossbred  sheep  are  usually 
grown  in  agricultural  sections,  where  harvested  crops  can  be  raised 
at  relatively  small  expense. 

In  the  case  of  the  crossbred  flocks  the  average  total  maintenance 
costs  per  head  are,  as  already  stated,  $2.78,  and  the  average  receipts 
per  head  from  other  sources  than  wool  are  $2.92.  The  receipts, 
therefore,  pay  the  total  costs  and  afford  a  balance  of  16  cents,  which, 
added  to  the  total  receipts  per  head  from  wool — $1.46 — produces  a 
total  of  $1.62  per  head  as  profit. 

■f  In  the  case  of  the  merino  flocks,  the  average  total  maintenance 
costs  per  head  are  $2.44  and  the  average  receipts  from  other  sources 
per  head  are  only  about  $1.07,  leaving  a  difference  of  $1.37  to  be  cov- 
ered by  the  average  receipts  from  wool;  and,  since  these  amount  to 
$1.88  per  head,  there  remains  50  cents  per  head  as  average  profit. 
■  The  majority  of  the  merino  sheep  are  found  in  the  southeastern 
part  of  Oliio  and  the  adjacent  regions  of  Pennsylvania  and  West 
Virginia  and  in  southern  Michigan.  The  statistics  of  merino  flocks 
presented  in  the  tables  concern  flocks  of  more  than  the  average  size 
m  the  region,  but  the  board  is  convinced  that  the  statistics  presented 
would  also  hold  true  of  the  smaller  flocks,  and  that,  therefore,  the 
average  net  charge  of  19  cents  against  a  pound  of  wool  may  be  accepted 
as  the  average  net  charge  for  the  entire  region. 

Of  the  10,000,000  crossbred  sheep,  a  considerable  part  are  kept  un- 
der such  conditions  as  to  yield  larger  profits  than  do  the  crossbred 
flocks  considered  in  Table  AlX  of  this  report.  On  the  other  hand, 
many  of  them  are  kept  under  conditions  more  unfavorable  than  those 
of  the  crossbreds  reported.  But  it  is  probably  true  that  in  an  average 
for  the  crossbred  flocks  of  the  region  as  a  whole  the  receipts  from  other 
sources  are  quite  sufficient  to  meet  the  total  costs  of  mamtenance,  and 
therefore  the  receipts  from  wool  remain  as  profit. 

COSTS  IN  ENGLAND,  FRANCE,  AND  GERMANY. 

In  England  many  small  flocks  are  kept  by  farmers  who  depend 
chiefly  on  grain  growing  or  some  other  form  of  general  agriculture, 
but  most  of  the  sheep  are  run  in  comparatively  large  flocks  in  regions 
of  more  extensive  agriculture,  where  the  soil  is  so  light  that  if  cropped 
it  must  be  constantly  fertilized.  In  both  cases  the  fertilizing  power 
of  the  flock  pla3^s  an  important  r6le  and  the  system  of  flock  hus- 
bandry is  planned  with  a  view  to  deriving  the  greatest  possible 
benefit  from  this  source.  Both  large  and  small  flocks  are  carefully 
shepherded  and  are  constantly  moved  about  for  the  purpose  of  giv- 
ing the  sheep  change  of  feed  and  in  order  to  prevent  disease  and 
keep  the  health  of  the  flock  at  a  high  level.  Careful  farm  economy 
reauires  the  expenditure  of  much  labor  in  order  that  the  best  pos- 
sible use  may  be  made  of  the  by-products  and  waste  of  the  farm 
and  the  maximum  value  derived  from  the  manure  of  the  sheep.  In 
the  United  States  the  flock  owner,  as  already  noted,  estimates  that 
the  value  of  the  fertilizer  offsets  the  cost  of  the  labor  of  caring  for 
the  flock,  but  in  England  the  feeding  methods  are  such  that  the 


374 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOAED  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


BEPOKT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


375 


value  of  the  manure  far  outweighs  the  labor  costs,  although  so  much 
more  labor  ia  expended  on  the  cai-e  of  the  flock  that,  despite  the  lower 
rates  of  wages,  these  costs  are  somewliat  higher  than  m  the  United 
States. 

Although  land  values  and  rents  are  often  higher  in  England  tlian 
in  the  United  States,  forage  costs  are  no  higher  and  if  the  real 
effectiveness  of  the  forage  be  taken  into  account  they  can  scarcely  be 
considered  as  high.  Tins  is  due  to  the  fact  that  in  England  the  pas- 
tures receive  careful  attention  and  many  crops,  such  as  rape,  roots, 
etc.,  are  grown  especially  for  the  sheep,  so  that  the  breeoing  flock 
does  not  require  expensive,  concentrated  foods,  whereas  m  the 
United  States  pastures  receive  less  attention  and  many  flock  owners 
are  not  willing  to  take  the  trouble  to  grow  special  crops.  In  the 
investigation  into  conditions  in  the  Ohio  region  indeed,  the  number 
of  farmers  who  reported  special  crops  grown  for  sheep  was  so  small 
as  to  be  negligible.  It  should,  however,  be  pointed  out  that,  since 
the  winter  mmate  of  our  com  belt  is  much  more  severe  than  that  of 
England,  more  extensive  feeding  of  harvested  crops  is  necessarv. 

The  English  flock  owner  considere  wool  a  by-product,  and  there- 
fore his  net  charge  against  wool  is  not  of  much  sigiulicance  as  throw^- 
ing  light  on  the  conditions  of  flock  husbandry.  Estimates  made 
especially  for  the  board  by  a  prominent  English  authority  show  that 
about  one-fifth  of  the  total  receipts  from  the  flock  are  derived  from 
wool  and  that  the  average  yield  per  head  of  sheep  is  about  5  pounds 
of  wool,  worth  about  $1,  and  one  lamb,  worth  aoout  $5,  and  since 
this  same  authority  estimates  that  the  entire  costs  per  head  of  sheep, 
including  labor  costs,  are  about  $4.16,  it  is  seen  that  English  sheep 
husbanihy  is  fairly  profitable. 

That  tne  industry  is  a  Mttle  more  than  holding  its  own  is  shown  by 
the  fact  that  whereas  in  1900  there  were  approximately  15,900,000 
sheep  in  England,  in  1909-10  there  w^re  somewhat  more  than 
16,000,000. 

In  so  far  as  general  flock  husbandry  is  concerned,  what  has  been 
said  of  England  is  equally  true  of  France  and  Germany.  There  is 
careful  shepherding;  the  sheep  are  made  the  gleanere  of  the  farm; 
and  the  greatest  possible  use  is  made  of  their  fertilizer.  But  labor 
costs  are  probably  somewhat  liigher  in  France  and  somewhat  lower 
in  Germany  than  in  England,  and  in  neither  of  these  countries  do 
sheep  play  as  important  a  role  as  in  England  in  general  farm  economy. 
In  France  tliis  is  due  to  the  greater  intensiveness  of  agriculture, 
wliile  in  Germany  it  is  partly  due  to  the  lower  esteem  in  wiiich  mut- 
ton is  held. 

In  France  the  production  of  mutton  has  gradually  become  the 
chief  object  of  flock  husbandrv  and  the  transition  has  been  made  by 
means  of  the  development  of  a  mutton  type  of  merino,  the  Ram- 
bouiUet,  and  of  another  type  quite  equal  to  the  Rambouillet,  the 
Dishley  merino,  produced  by  crossing  the  merino  with  an  English 
mutton  tjrpe.  In  these  sheep  the  French  have  combined  many 
qualities  of  the  merino  fleece  with  a  large  carcass  of  excellent  mutton. 

In  certain  famous  flocks  visited  by  an  agent  of  the  board,  the 
sheep  were  shearing  as  high  as  from  9  to  11  pounds  of  fine 
medium  wool,  bringing  the  grower,  in  1910,  from  18  to  20  cents  a 
pound,  and  lambs  worth,  when  fat,  from  $8  to  $10.  Owing  to 
the  fact  that  in  France  sheep  are  usually  run  on  higher  priced  land 


than  in  England,  the  costs  of  production  per  sheep  are  somewhat 
higher;  but  this  difference  is  quite  made  up  by  the  fineness  of  the 
fleece  and  the  high  price  of  mutton,  so  that,  measured  by  the  net 
returns  per  head  of  sheep,  flock  husbandry  is  possibly  more  profitable 
in  France  than  in  England.  Still,  the  industry  is  scarcely  holding 
its  own,  as  shown  by  the  fact  that  whereas  in  1900  there  were 
20,000,000  sheep  in  France,  in  1909-10  there  were  only  about 
17,000,000. 

Germany  has  long  been  noted  for  its  production  of  the  fine  Saxony 
merino  wools,  and  as  the  sheep  producing  this  wool  was  the  prevailing 
type  in  Germany  and  has  little  mutton  value,  the  fall  in  the  price  of  wool 
was  a  serious  blow  to  the  industry.  In  those  regions  of  Germany 
where  conditions  have  been  favorable  and  the  emphasis  has  been 
shifted  from  wool  to  mutton,  conditions  approach  those  in  France. 
But  the  readjustment  has  not  been  carried  so  far,  and  many  German 
flock  owners  still  raise  the  fine- wool  sheep,  which  barely  pay  for 
their  keep.  That  the  industry  as  a  whole  is  declining  is  snown 
by  the  fact  that  while  in  1900  there  were  about  10,000,000  sheep 
in  Germany,  in  1909-10  there  were  only  about  half  as  many. 

WAS  THE  YEAR  UNDER  REVIEW  A  NORMAL  ONE? 

It  is  apparent  that  in  the  year  under  review  the  costs  of  wool 
production  were  higher  in  the  United  States  than  in  any  other 
countries  considered.  Therefore,  unless,  owing  to  unusual  weather 
conditions  or  abnormal  prices,  this  period  is  to  be  regarded  as  having 
been  an  abnormal  year  for  flock  husbandry  in  some  of  the  countries 
under  consideration,  the  evidence  of  the  statistics  presented  may 
be  accepted  as  indicative  of  the  general  situation  as  to  wool  produc- 
tion in  the  Western  States  and  the  other  countries  concerned. 

Climatic  variations  from  year  to  year  affect  the  flock  industry 
much  more  seriously  in  some  of  these  countries  than  in  others. 
In  New  Zealand  and  South  Africa,  while  there  may  be  decided 
climatic  variations  from  year  to  year,  especialljr  in  the  latter  country, 
the  intimate  connection  of  the  flock  industry  with  agriculture  enables 
the  sheep  growers  to  meet  these  extremes  without  appreciable  effect 
on  their  returns. 

^  In  the  eastern  region  of  the  United  States,  also,  flock  husbandry 
is  so  intimately  associated  with  general  agriculture  as  to  be  but 
slightljr  affected  by  climatic  variations  from  year  to  year.  Such 
variations  do,  it  is  true,  affect  the  prices  of  the  harvested  crops 
fed  to  sheep;  but  since  the  costs  of  producing  such  crops  do  not 
fluctuate  very  widely  from  year  to  year,  httle  account  need  be 
taken  of  climatic  influences  in  such  connection. 

In  the  western  region  of  the  United  States,  in  Austraha,  and  in 
South  America  there  is  no  such  association  of  the  flock  industry 
with  agriculture,  and  the  very  great  climatic  extremes  profoundly 
affect  the  prosperity  of  the  flock  owner.  In  the  western  United  States 
climatic  variations  from  year  to  year  are,  however,  so  different  in 
different  parts  of  the  region  and  even,  in  many  cases,  on  different 
ranges  of  the  same  locahty  as  to  produce  no  appreciable  effect  on  the 
average  returns  from  the  flock  industry  of  the  region  as  a  whole. 

In  Austraha,  on  the  other  hand,  climatic  extremes  are  much  more 
severe  and  widespread,  and  sometmies  result  in  general  prostration  of 


376 


REPOBT  OP   TABIFF  BOARD   ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


EEPORT  OF   TARIFF  BOARD   ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


377 


the  industry,  as  in  the  case  of  the  drought  of  1902.  Since  that  year 
Austrahan  flock  husbandry  has  enjoyed  a  high  degree  of  prosperity, 
and  within  this  period  the  year  1909-10  may  be  regaraed  as  one 
of  average  conditions.  Since  the  profits  of  these  lat  years  wOl 
surely  have  to  be  shared  with  lean  years  yet  to  come,  the  conditions 
of  1909-10  must  be  regarded  as  somewhat  more  favorable  than  the 
average.  But  it  is  to  be  remembered  that  part  of  the  operating  costs 
of  that  year  were  incurred  in  anticipation  of  less  favorable  conditions 
and  that  as  a  result  of  such  preparations  and  the  improvement  of 
transportation  facihties  the  Australian  flock  owners  are  now  better 
able  than  ever  before  to  bear  the  strain  of  unfavorable  years,  so  that 
in  all  probabihty  such  a  disaster  as  that  of  1902  will  not  recur  and  the 
future  average  prosperity  of  the  industry  should  closely  approximate 
that  of  1909-10. 

The  situation  of  South  America  with  regard  to  the  influence  of 
climatic  variations  on  its  flock  industry  is  similar  to  that  of  Australia. 
The  year  1909-10  was  one  of  rather  exceptionally  favorable  condi- 
tions for  South  American  flock  husbandry;  but  since  the  industry  had 
not  fuUy  recovered  from  the  severe  drought  of  the  year  before,  the 
statistics  for  1909-10  may  be  regarded  as  fairlv  typical. 

It  may,  therefore,  be  concluded  that  as  far  as  the  influence  of 
unusual  weather  conditions  is  concerned  the  year  1909-10  was  prac- 
tically a  normal  year  for  flock  husbandry  in  all  the  countries  under 
consideration. 

The  average  price  received  for  mutton  in  the  United  States  in 
1909-10  was  about  the  same  as  the  five-year  average,  while  that 
received  for  wool  was  about  3  cents  under  the  five-year  average. 
And  since  this  year's  output  of  wool  and  mutton  was  about  normal 
the  receipts  of  the  industry  were  somewhat  below  the  average.  It  is 
clear  that  in  former  years  profits  have  been  greater  in  the  western 
United  States  than  they  were  during  the  period  covered  by  this 
inquiry. 

In  the  other  countries  considered  wool  and  mutton  prices  were 
about  normal  in  1909-10,  but  in  Australia  and  New  Zealand  receipts 
from  sources  other  than  wool  were  somewhat  higher  than  the  five-year 
average,  owing  to  the  increased  emphasis  on  mutton  production  and 
the  strong  demand  for  stock  sheep;  but  unless  disaster  overtakes  the 
industry  these  receipts  are  not  likely  to  become  less,  and  conse- 
quently it  seems  fair,  in  a  consideration  of  the  future  of  the  Austra- 
lasian flock  industry,  to  accept  the  returns  of  1909-10  as  normal. 

Since,  therefore,  there  seems  to  be  no  evidence  that  in  any  of  the 
countries  under  consideration  the  returns  from  flock  husbandry  in 
the  period  under  review  were  other  than  practicaUy  normal,  the  con- 
clusion seems  inevitable  that  under  present  conditions  wool  produc- 
tion is  less  profitable  in  the  United  States  than  in  any  of  these  other 
countries. 

A  NATIONAL  AVERAGE   CHARGE   PER  POUND   OP  WOOL  IN  THE  UNITED 

STATES   OP   9 J  CENTS. 

The  situation  may  be  summed  up  as  follows: 

In  the  western  region  of  the  United  States,  with  approximately 
35,000,000  sheep,  the  net  charge  against  a  pound  of  wool  is  about  1 1 
cents.    In  the  other  sections,  with  about  15,000,000  sheep,  the  net 


( 


charge  against  a  pound  of  wool  from  the  merino  sheep,  which  number 
approximately  5,000,000,  is  about  19  cents,  and  the  net  charge  against 
the  wool  grown  on  sheep  of  the  crossbred  type  is  negligible. 

On  an  average  for  the  United  States  as  a  whole  the  net  charge 
against  a  pound  of  "fine"  wool  is  a  fraction  over  12  cents. 

Accepting  19  cents  as  the  average  charge  against  a  pound  of  wool 
of  a  distinctly  fine  or  fine  medium  character  grown  in  the  farming 
States,  11  i3ents  as  a  fair  average  for  the  western  States,  and  assum- 
ing that  on  an  average  the  smaller  farm  flocks  of  a  distinctly 
mutton  or  coarse  wool  type  pay  for  their  own  wool,  and  giving  each 
class  its  approximate  relative  weight  in  the  calculation,  a  general 
average  for  the  entire  clip  of  the  country,  aU  grades  included,  would 
be  about  9  J  cents  per  pound. 

As  intimated  above,  while  the  expenses  in  the  United  States  during 
the  year  under  review  were  fully  up  to  the  average  for  a  series  of 
yeai*s,  the  receipts  fell  below  the  average.  It  is  but  fair,  therefore, 
to  assume  that  the  estimated  income  of  6.2  per  cent  should,  under 
normal  receipts,  [be  considerably  increased.  There  is  no  contin- 
gency, however,  in  sight  that  can  by  any  possibility  place  domestic 
growers  on  an  equality  in  the  matter  of  costs  with  their  competitors 
m  South  America,  Australasia,  and  the  Cape  Colonies. 

The  foregoing  deals  mainly  with  production  costs.  Certain  details 
touching  the  general  conditions  surrounding  production  in  the  various 
competing  countries  are  presented  elsewhere  in  the  form  of  special 
reports. 


PART  11.  RAW  WOOLS -SECTION  2. 


WOOL  SHRINKAGES  AND  METHODS  OF  LEVYING  DUTIES 

ON  RAW  WOOL. 


379 


WOOL  SHRIirKAGES  AS  RELATED  TO  TARIFF  RATES. 


Wool  contains,  when  it  leaves  the  back  of  the  sheep,  various  sub- 
stances that  must  be  removed  before  it  can  be  sent  to  the  cards.  In 
its  natural  condition  it  is  usually  known  as  *^raw  wool''  or  '^grease 
wool."  After  the  removal  of  the  impurities  it  is  known  as  ''clean  wool " 
or  ''scoured  wool.''  The  loss  in  weight  due  to  the  cleaning  process 
is  the  "shrinkage"  of  the  wool,  and  the  amount  of  this  shrinkage 
varies  greatly  with  wools  of  differing  grades,  qualities,  and  countries. 

For  obvious  reasons  the  manufacturer  is  concerned  to  know,  not 
the  amount  of  grease  wool  in  a  lot  that  is  offered  for  sale,  but  rather 
the  yield  or  amount  of  clean  wool  that  may  be  procured  from  the 
lot  after  it  is  scoured.  His  object  when  purchasing  foreign  wool 
under  the  present  method  of  levying  the  duty  is  to  select  those  lots 
of  the  quality  he  needs  that  have  the  lightest  shrinkage,  the  duty 
being  the  same  on  lots  of  equal  weight  in  the  raw  state,  however 
different  their  shrinkage  may  be.  As  one  result  of  this,  various  wools 
of  heavy  shrinkage  can  not  be  profitably  imported  into  the  United 
States.  Another  result  is  the  practice  abroad  of  preparing  and 
selecting  the  light-shrinking  sorts  that  are  peculiarly  suitable  for  the 
American  trade.  Certain  manufacturers  complain  of  the  first  result, 
on  the  ground  that  it  prevents  them  from  using  the  heavier-condi- 
tioned wools  of  foreign  origin.  Domes  tic- wool  growers,  on  the  other 
hand,  complain  of  the  second  result  on  the  ground  that  it  enables 
manufacturers  to  procure  clean  wool  of  the  light-shrinking  sorts  at  a 
materially  lower  net  rate  of  duty  than  the  law  apparently  contem- 
plated. 

The  board  finds  that  both  of  these  complaints  are  well  founded  and 
that  steps  should  be  taken  to  remove  the  cause.  We  have  samples, 
for  example,  of  fine  Cape  and  Austrafian  greasy  fleeces  that  would 
shrink  up  to,  sav,  73  per  cent  in  the  scouring.  These  are  short  wools 
of  very  desirable  quality  for  woolen  manufacture;  but  it  is  apparent 
that  fleeces  that  yield  but  27  pounds  of  clean  wool  per  hundredweight, 
entered  upon  the  basis  of  11  cents  in  the  grease,  would  really  be  paying 
a  duty  of  40  cents  per  pound  of  clean  content.  Such  a  rate  is  essen- 
tially prohibitive.  Certain  woolen  manufacturers  desire  access  to 
the  world's  supply  of  the  low-grade,  cheap  byproducts  of  the  skirting 
and  sorting  processes.  The  wool  thus  separated  from  the  main  body 
of  a  fleece  may  be  very  short,  it  may  be  coarse,  and  it  is  almost  certain 
to  be  heavily  weighted  with  dirt.  In  Australia  this  skirting  refuse 
is  often  scoured  before  being  shipped,  because  it  brings  such  a  low 
price  in  the  grease  and  is  so  heavy  that  it  is  unprofitable  to  send  it 
forward  in  the  greasy  state.  As  the  present  duty  on  scoured  wool, 
however,  is  33  cents  per  pound,  it  is  obviously  impracticable  for 
manufacturers  to  import  these  low-grade  sorts.  Since  they  could 
profitably  be  utiHzed  for  fiUing  purposes,  it  seems  certain  that  if  the 
law  were  to  be  modifiied  so  as  to  permit  of  their  importation  such 
wools  might  be  introduced  into  the  weaving  of  fabrics  which  now 
admittedly  carry  large  percentages  of  shoddy  or  cotton. 

381 


382 


BEPOKT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  OK  SCHEDULE  K. 


The  complaint  of  the  grower  of  domestic  wools  that  he  is  not  now 
and  has  not  during  ail  these  years  been  receiving  the  amount  of  i)ro- 
tection  nominally  extended  by  the  11-eent  duty  on  the  grease  pound 
is  based  upon  the  heavy  shrinkage  of  the  domestic  fleece  as  agamst 
the  light-conditioned  skirteil  wools  selected  for  importation  primarily 
for  their  large  net  yield.  An  examination  of  the  existing  duties  will 
show  that  the  schedule  is  constructed  upon  the  theory  that  wool 
shrinks  661  per  cent  in  the  scouring.  Since,  however,  it  is  certain 
that  the  wools  actually  imported  shrink  sometliing  less  than  40  per 
cent,  it  is  obvious  that  instead  of  paying  $11  duty  for  every  33i 
pounds  of  actual  wool  brought  in,  the  importer  is  really  securing  some 
60  pounds  at  a  rate  of  not  to  exceed  18  cents  per  scoured  pound. 

In  order  that  this  matter  may  be  more  clearly  understood,  the 
board  has  prepared  a  tabular  statement  in  which  the  full  effect  of 
shrinkages  upon  the  actual  operation  of  the  existing  wool  duties  is 
shown : 

Table  I.—Presml  gream-pound  reits  with  computed  scoured-pound  equivaUnU. 


Kirlnlcaflt. 


75  per  cent. 
70  per  cent, 
dfiperoent. 

GO  per  c^at . 
56  percent. 
50  per  cent. 
45  per  cent . 
40  per  eeut . 
35  per  cent . 
30  per  cent . 
25  per  eent . 
20  per  cent . 


Actual  duty  on  scourfd 
content. 


Class  I 
wools.— 
Duty  per 

pound, 
11  cents. 


Class  I  [ 
wools. — 
Duty  per 
pouna, 
12  cents. 


As  will  appear  further  on,  the  real  point  of  interest  in  the  case  of 
Class  I  wool  IS  that  part  of  the  computation  affecting  wools  shrinking 
35  per  e^nt  and  upward,  and  in  the  case  of  Class  II  wools  the  actual 
business  is  handled  at  the  iigures  appearing  in  the  lower  half  of  the 

column. 

It  should  be  stated  that  practically  all  of  the  domestic  clip,  if 
offered  for  entry  at  our  ports,  w^ould  fall  under  Class  I  of  the  existing 
law.  That  is  to  sav,  the  great  bulk  of  the  wool  grown  in  the  United 
States  shows  the  lise  of  merino  blood,  either  immediate  or  remote, 
in  its  production.  Imports  under  Class  II  are  relatively  ummportant 
and  tfiere  is  no  longer  valid  reason  for  the  maintenance  of  the  dis- 
tinction as  between  the  English  and  merino  wools  so  long  in  force. 

It  must  be  obvious  from  a  consideration  of  these  figures  that  no 
proper  understanding  of  the  operation  of  any  given  specific  rate  of 
dutv  is  possible  without  full  knowledge  of  relative  shnnkixges;  that 
is  to  sav,  of  the  actual  clean  wool  content  of  the  various  leading 
cUps  of  the  United  States  and  other  large  producing  countnes.  On 
account  of  the  importance  of  this  question  the  board  has  endeavored 


EEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  OK  SCHEDUUE  K. 


383 


to  develop  the  facts,  first  by  a  careful  examination  of  a  large  number 
of  records  of  actual  scourings  of  unbroken  and  unblended  lots  in  both 
foreign  and  domestic  estabUshments,  and  where  these  were  not 
accessible,  by  obtaining  carefully  computed  estimates  from  recog- 
nized and  disinterested  authorities. 

The  practice  common  to  n[iany  manufactiirers  of  blending  various 
foreign  and  domestic  grades  before  scouring  rendered  the  figures 
obtained  from  many  mills  useless  for  the  purpose  in  view,  and  these 
were  accordingly  discarded.  But  the  board  has  ascertained  the  clean 
yield  of  so  many  milUons  of  pounds  of  straight  unblended  lots  that 
it  believes  the  results  establish  beyond  any  reasonable  doubt  the 
shrinkage  of  the  leading  competing  clips,  as  actually  marketed. 

THE    SHRINKAGE   OF  FINE   WOOLS. 

First  and  foremost  comes  the  question  of  the  relative  shrinkages 
of  the  fine  sorts  that  are  so  largely  produced  in  Australia  and  the 
United  States.  South  America  also  grows  large  quantities  of  merino 
fleeces — more  especially  in  Uruguay — and  the  African  Cape  figures 
prominently  in  this  trade.  New  Zealand,  Argentina,  ana  portions 
of  Australia  produce  the  famous  "crossbred"  wool  so  useful  in  the 
worsted  trade,  wliile  the  Class  III  or  carpet  wools  come  from  a  great 
number  of  sources,  largely  Asiatic. 

It  should  be  stated  at  the  outset  th.at  in  the  case  of  both  Ohio  and 
Territory  (domestic)  wools,  the  figures  deal  with  the  unwashed  fleece 
substantially  as  it  comes  from  the  sheep's  back;  whereas  the  foreign- 

frown  wools  of  like  character,  scoured  in  American  nulls,  have  usually 
een  shorn  of  their  locks,  necks,  bellies,  etc.,  and  selected  from  clips 
produced  in  districts  comparatively  free  from  sand,  burs,  and  other 
undesirable  substances.  This  fact  should  also  be  borne  in  mind  in 
comparing  prices  paid  for  the  domestic  and  foreign  fleeces.  In  other 
words,  we  are  dealing  with  our  own  wools  in  bulk  and  with  the  com- 
peting wool  on  a  net  basis,  after  manipulation  designed  to  lighten 
their  condition  to  the  last  degree  possible  without  having  recourse  to 
washing  or  scouring.  This  explains  the  marked  difference  developed 
by  the  actual  scouring  returns  we  have  obtained  from  the  records  of 
American  mills  as  between  the  foreign  and  domestic  fleece.  The 
figures  from  European  sources  demonstrate  the  truth  of  the  assertion 
that  the  heavier  foreign  wools  tinder  the  operation  of  our  present  law 
naturally  find  their  way  into  British  and  continental  markets. 

Table  II. — Amount  and  per  cent  of  shrinkage  of  clean  wool  resulting  from  scouring 
specified  grades  of  fine  wool  having  their  origin  in  given  localities. 


Eastern 
United 

States, 

In  United 

BtJit«» 

miriB. 

Western 

United 

States, 

la  United 

Statin 

mills. 

South  American. 

Australian. 

In  United 
States 
mills. 

In  foreign 
mills. 

In  United 
States 
millf). 

In  foreign 
mil  Ik. 

Pounds  in  greaae.. 

PouikIs  ncuured 

4,262,813 

I, TOP, 002 

60.00 

46,996,576 

15,390.892 

67.25 

1,^¥«.666 

674,755 

47.64 

8,846.401 

3,550,597 

59.90 

11,067,147 

5,730,238 

4S.22 

29,967,258 

I2,y3;,mi 

56.  S2 

Per  cent  of  siiriokage. 

884  REPORT  OF   TARIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 

In  th©  preparation  of  these  figures  care  was  used  to  eliminate  all 
data  whicn  from  any  cause  seemed  lacking  in  the  elements  essential 
to  the  accuracy  of  such  a  computation.  Many  millions  of  pounds 
were  thus  rejected;  so  that  the  board  regards  the  results  obtained, 
for  all  practical  purposes,  dependable.  The  calculation,  it  will  bo 
observed,  is  based  upon  the  cleaning  of  100,000,000  pounds  of  fine 
wool  in  various  American  and  European  plants. 

The  table  shows  that  the  fine  wools  of  Australia  and  South  America 
shrink  less  than  do  the  &^e  wools  of  this  country,  a  fact  due,  as  already 
stated,  largely  to  the  removal  of  the  ''skirt."  Therefore,  the  Ameri- 
can purchaser  of  100  pounds  of  fine  fleece  in  the  grease  secures  a 
yield  in  clean  wool  of — 

From  wool  of  the  Western  States pounds. .  32. 75 

From  wool  of  the  Ohio  region ao fi'^ 

From  wool  of  Australia ^^ ^^-  J° 

From  wool  of  South  America - ^^ ^^-  ^ 

It  is  clear  from  this  table  that  wool  of  heavy  shrinkage  from 
Australia  and  South  America  comes  to  this  country  in  very  small 
quantities.  From  South  Africa,  a  region  where  the  shrmkage  is 
heavier  than  in  either  of  the  other  foreign  countnes,  relatively  littlo 
wool  of  any  sort  is  imported— «o  little,  indeed,  that  in  the  American 
mills  investigated  the  Tariff  Board  did  not  find  enough  to  tabulate  its 
scoured  yield.  It  is  highly  valued  for  fine  felting  purposes  and  m 
the  manufacture  of  very  fine  woolens.  ,    ,       , 

Hehnuth  Schwartze  &  Co.,  of  London,  advise  the  board  that  less 
than  20  per  cent  of  the  merino  wools  produced  in  Austraha,  South 
America,  and  the  Cape  would  shrink  over  65  per  cent.  They  also 
estimate  that  out  of  this  total  production  only  about  5  per  cent  to  8 
per  cent  should  shrink  up  to  70  to  75  per  cent. 

Eiver  Plate  wools  shipped  to  Europe  contam  fully  6  per  cent-  more 
burs  than  those  imported  into  America.  In  both  England  and 
Germany  cards  are  fitted  with  special  appliances  for  elimmatmg 
these.  Probably  75  per  cent  of  the  Argentine  wool  imported  into  the 
United  States  is  bought  on  the  basis  of  a  guaranteed  peld. 

The  value  of  these  figures  readily  appears  when  applied  to  the 
table  firet  above  presented.  It  is  certam  that  the  Australian  and 
South  American  merinos  are  entering  our  markets  to-day  upon  a 
computed  basis  of  about  21  cents  per  scoured  pound. 

CROSSBREDS. 

There  is  an  enormous  quantity  of  wool  produced  m  Australasia 
and  South  America  known  in  the  trade  as  *' crossbred"  that  haa 
practically  no  equivalent  in  our  domestic  production.  Large  quan- 
tities of  I  blood  and  J  blood  are  grown  locaUy  into  the  production  of 
which  merino  blood  has  entered.  ,.     i    ,.       .-,  x 

There  are  some  of  the  British  long-wooled  rams  (mcludmg  Cx)t9- 
wolds)  used  by  domestic  growers,  but  relatively  they  are  m  the 
minority  for  this  particular  use  in  this  country.  Hence  the  cross- 
bred wools  of  the  Southern  Hemisphere  and  the  so-called  luster 
grades  may  be  said  to  represent  types  not  largely  m  evidence  in  the 
domestic  suonlv 

Crossbred  fleeces,  like  the  southern  merinos,  usually  come  to 
market  graded  and  skirted,  and  as  all  coarser  wools  carry  less  oil 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD   ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


385 


naturally  than  the  fine  we  find  the  foreign  crossbreds  going  tlirough 
the  scouring  mills  with  a  comparatively  light  percentage  of  shrink 
and  a  good  yield  of  clean  wool. 

Table  III. — Amount  of  clean  wool  and  per  cent  of  shrinkage  resulting  from  scouring 
foreign  crossbreds  and  dom£Stic  wools  grading  one-half  blood  and  under. 


I  blood  and  under  (domestic  wools): 

Pounds  in  grease 

Pounds  scoured 

Per  cent  of  shrinkage 

§  blood: 

Poimds  In  grease 

Pounds  scoured 

Per  cent  of  shrinkage 

I  blood: 

Pounds  in  grease 

Pounds  scoured 

Per  cent  of  shrinkage 

J  blood: 

Pounds  In  grease 

Pounds  scoured 

Per  cent  of  shrinkage 


Eastern 

United 

States, 

in  United 

States 

mills. 


9,101,974 

4,858,984 
46.  C2 


Western 
United 
States, 

in  United 
States 
mills. 


15,917,633 

6,003,731 

62.28 

3,213.783 

1, 483, 743 

53.83 

1,510,985 

785,474 

48.09 


South  American. 


In  United 
States 
mills. 


738, 711 

373,482 

49.44 

4,215.956 

2, 785, 513 

33.93 

12,537,310 

8.379,071 

33.17 


In  foreign 
mills. 


Australian, 
in  United 

States 

mills. 


3,720,225 

1,  G70, 291 

65.01 


27.394,408 

17,431,779 

36.44 


4,467,078 

2,540,609 

43.13 

1.995,100 

1,252^492 

37.26 

145,267 

102.557 

29.40 


It  thus  appears  that  there  is  a  similar  thougli  not  so  great  a  dis- 
crepancy between  the  yield  of  the  lower  grades  of  wool  grown  in  the 
United  States  and  that  imported  from  abroad  as  there  is  in  the  case 
of  the  finer  wools.  The  fact  is  that  South  American  and  other  for- 
eign wools  in  all  grades  for  wliich  trustworthy  scouring  records  were 
obtained  show  a  higher  shrinkage  in  foreign  mills  than  in  the  mills 
of  the  United  States.  The  same  condition  prevails  with  regard  to 
grades  for  which  scouring  records  were  not  secured,  but  the  degree  of 
difference  in  such  cases,  being  a  matter  of  estimate,  can  not  be  given 
in  exact  figures. 

The  board  has  procured  a  large  amount  of  data  from  various  for- 
eign combing  and  conditioning  plants — British,  French,  German,  and 
Belgian — bearing  upon  the  shrinkage  of  various  wools,  but  some  of 
this  material  was  lor  various  reasons  not  strictly  comparable,  and 
is  therefore  not  submitted.  In  so  far  as  it  can  be  brought  to  a  rea- 
sonably fair  basis  of  comparison,  it  substantiates  not  only  the  figures 
printed  above,  but  tends  to  confirm  the  accuracy  of  two  interesting 
estimates  especially  prepared  for  the  board  by  the  well-known  house 
of  Helmuth  Schwartze  &  Co.,  of  London,  which  are  herewith 
appended.  Needless  to  say,  this  firm  can  not  and  does  not  extend  any 
guarantee  as  to  actual  results  from  individual  purchases  of  wool  of 
the  different  qualities  hsted;  but  their  standing  is  such  as  to  give  con- 
fidence in  the  approximate  accuracy  of  any  computations  of  this 
character  made  under  their  supervision. 

They  were  asked  to  prepare  two  statements — one  covering  the 
colonial  wools,  regarded  as  most  nearly  coming  within  the  range  of 
United  States  buying,  under  the  operation  of  our  existing  tariff,  and 
another  dealing  with  the  shrinkages  of  the  heavier  grades,  commonly 
supposed  to  be  virtually  excluded  from  the  American  market.  The 
figures  follow: 

32080"— H.  Doc.  342,  62-2,  vol  1 25 


■Hi 


mm 


S86 


BEPOKT  OF  TAEIFF  BOAIB  OH  SCHEDULE  K, 


Table  IV.—Eatmate  of  the  approximate  shrinhages  of  Colomal  grease  wools  {based  am 

an  average  year)'. 

IPrepared  with  special  reference  to  the  Ughter-conditioned  wools  suitable  for  the  American  market  under 
'      *  existing  coaditions.1 


Description  according 
to  quality  (counts). 


Merino: 

708-808,  clothing. 

70s 

64a-708 

&48,  waff 

64s,  combing 

6Qs 

588 

CrasBbred: 

608,  comeback 

SSb 

fi6s,  |bkx>d 

fiOs,  I  blood 

466,  i  blood 

i(lB-44s,  low  J 

86s-40s 


Oeelong, 

Port 
Phillip. 


Per  cent. 

47-49 
4e-48 
45-47 
U-45 
4S-47 
46-48 
44-46 

S»-40 
37-38 
37-38 
35-36 
31-32 
2&-30 
2&-26 


R'.verina, 

Port 
PMlUp. 


Per  cerU. 

fiO-52 
46-48 
4£^-46 
46^18 
48-SO 
4&-43 

4(M2 
3»-40 
3&-40 
36-37 

m-m 

27-28 


Sydney 
(New 
South 

Wales). 


land. 


Adelaide 

(south 

Au»- 

tralia). 


Percent. 
50-52 

46-48 

47-49 


') 


Per  cent. 
S2-54 

Slv'''''SSi 

47-49 
46-48 
48-50 

susa 


Percent. 


54-56 

53-55 
53-55 
62-64 
62-M 
50-62 


South 
Aus- 
tralia, 
south- 
eastern 
district, 
including 
Portland 
Bay. 


Per  cent. 
48^50 
49-51 
48-50 
48-50 
48-50 
4«>-48 


West 
Aus- 
tralian. 


Per  cent. 


40-42 
3SM0 
39-tO 
36-37 
33-34 
30-32 
26-28 


80-52 
48-50 
51-53 

51-53 
50-52 


New  Zea- 
land. 


Per  cent. 
5&-56 
62-54 
52-54 
50-^52 
52-54 
63-55 


40-12 
38-40 
32-36 
28-30 
25-27 
20-23 


»  Quantity  small. 

CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE  AND  NATAL. 

Per  cent. 

C3alfdofi  (10  months) ffif 

Mosael  Bay  (10 months).. ^I^ 

Karoo  70s  (12  months) **^*^^ 

Kaffrarian:  ,   ^  rocK 

.      Farmers  (12  months) ^T^ 

Fanners  (6  months) ^T?! 

Natal  (good  average  combing) ^TJ^ 

Orange Kiver  Colony  (average combmg) ----  "'^^ 

Tablb  Y.^Esiimatea  of  approximaie  shrinkages  of  the  Umer  grades  of  colonial  grease 

wools. 


Descriptlan  according  to 
ginning  qualities  (co*ints). 


Mermo: 

FkeceTOs 

Fleece  70s,  very  wasty. . . 

Fleece  64s,  vay  wasty. .  - 

FlaeceeOB 

Fleece  608,  very  wasty. . . 

Broken  fleeces  60s 

Broken  fteeces  6Qb,  wasty. 
Crossbred: 

58s 

668... 

mi.  .>••. 


New  Booth 

Wales.. 


Mon- 
aro 

(blue). 


Per  el. 
65-59 
67-61 
64-58 

66^60 

64r^ 

fi6-60 

64-56 
66-68 


40s-4l8. 


Albert 
and 

Lach- 
lan 

(red). 


Per  a. 

66-60 
69-62 
66-38 
57-61 

6&-58 
66-60 

64-66 


Victoria 
( I'ort 
Phil- 
lip). 


Peret. 

6&-60 
69-62 
66-68 
57-61 
65-58 
66-CO 
50^2 
66-68 

40-42 
38-40 
36-38 
33-35 
30^32 


Queens- 
land. 


Per  et. 
60-62 
63-65 
68-60 
61-64 
66-58 
68-60 
54-56 
66-68 


Ado- 
laido 
(red). 


PerdL 

60-62 
63-65 
68-60 
62-M 
57-59 
60-62 
56-58 
60-61 


West 
Aus- 
tralia 
(blue). 


Peret. 

6^57 
6»-80 
54-56 
67-59 
66-58 
60-62 
0) 


41M7 
42-44 
40-43 
38-40 


West 

Aus- 
tralia 
(red). 


Peret. 

67-59 
60-62 
66-58 
69-61 
68-60 
63-65 
55-57 
68-60 


New 
Zea- 
land. 


Peret. 

66-68 
60-62 
65-57 
58-60 
66-58 
69-61 
&4-56 
66-68 

45-47 
42-44 
40-42 
38-40 
32-36 
28-31 


Punta 
Arraiaa 
(Pata- 
gonia 
and 
Chile). 


PereL 


6Wi7 
61-53 
48-50 
44-46 
40-43 
37-39 


t  Too  mixed 


BEPOET  OF  TAKIFF  BOABD  OIT   SCHEDULE  K. 


387 


CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE  AND  NATAL. 

Percent. 

Karoo  70s  (12  montlis) J2-«4 

Do.  (very  wasty ) T^^ 

East  lyondon  (12  months) Yt^ 

Do.  (very  wasty) ii»-Ti 

I 

It  will  be  observed  that  we  do  not  undertake  to  give  an  average 
shrinkage  for  all  the  wool  of  any  country.  This  is  due  to  the  fact  that 
records  were  obtained  for  very  different  quantities  of  the  different 
grades,  and  unless  it  were  possible  to  ascertain  the  proportion  of  the 
production  of  ea<^  grade  in  a  country  to  the  total  production  of  that 
country  a  fair  average  shrinkage  of  the  whole  wool  cUp  could  not  be 
given.  It  may  be  said  in  this  connection,  however,  that  the  estimates 
of  Helmuth  Schwartze  &  Co.  are  universally  accepted  in  the  trade. 
The  shrinkage  of  the  total  wool  production  of  the  leading  countries, 
calculated  from  their  circular  of  March  14, 1911,  is  in  percentages,  as 
follows: 

The  United  Kingdom  (fleece  washed),  25.1;  European  contment 
(fleece  washed),  33.33;  North  America,  54.96;  Australasia,  48.54; 
Cape  of  Good  Hope,  58.4;  River  Plata,  51.04. 

A  detailed  estimate  of  the  usual  yields  and  shrinkages  of  all  the 
leading  *' sorts"  of  foreign  wools  of  Class  I  and  Class  II,  compiled  for 
the  board  by  a  well-known  trade  authority  in  Bradford,  England,  is 
filed  in  supplementary  form. 

THE   EXISTING   LAW   IN   OPERATION. 

To  illustrate  the  actual  operation  of  the  present  law,  there  is  pre- 
sented below  a  complete  record  of  the  purchases  of  foreign  wool  by  a 
representative  American  mill  a^egating  more  than  10,000,000 
pounds.  The  facts  contained  in  this  record  have  been  tabulated  to 
show  the  actual  amount  of  the  present  duty  on  such  Class  I  wool  as  is 
now  largely  imported  when  reckoned  on  the  scoured  pound  and  when 
computed  m  aa  valorem  terms. 

Table  VI. — A  record  of  actual  importations  and  semirings  in  a  representative  American 
millj  covering  nfwre  than  10,000,000  pounds  of  Class  I  wool. 

AUSTRALIAN  MERINOS. 


Date  of  importation. 

Nnmber 
of  bales. 

Net 
wdght. 

Yield. 

Price  per 

pound 

scoured. 

Duty 
paid  per 

pound 
scoured. 

Price  per 
pound 

scoured, 
duty 
paid. 

Duty 
paid  ad 
valorem. 

1905. 
Dec.6 

52 
35 

107 
27 

23 
117 

64 
90 
197 
93 
72 
22 
14 

Pounds. 

14,855 

12,171 

85,093 

7,715 

7,796 
41,067 

21,814 
25,837 
65,668 
31,946 
22,655 
6,760 
4,983 

Percent. 
60.98 
48.00 
55.00 
49.59 

49.60 
54.00 

62.81 

61.10 
66.00 
60.18 
61.50 
61.50 
61.50 

Cents. 
61.03 
50.68 
50.60 
53.82 

53.32 
57.13 

*  54.56 
53.64 
57.00 
55.44 
53.64 
55.64 
65.64 

Cents. 
21.57 
22.92 
20.00 
22.18 

22.18 
30.37 

20.83 
21.36 
20.00 
21.92 
21.36 
21.36 
21.36 

Cents. 
72,60 
73.60 
70.60 
76.00 

75.50 
77.50 

75.39 
75.00 
77.00 
77.36 
75.00 
77.00 
77.00 

Per  cent. 
42.3 

Dec.9 

45.2 

Dec.ll 

39.5 

Dec.  22 

41.2 

1906. 
Jan.  13 

41.  S 

Mar.  30 !'".!!".!!.*!.!.... 

3S.7 

1907. 
Jan.  24 

38.3 

Jan.  24 

39.8 

Jan.  24 

35.1 

Jan.  29 

39.5 

Jan.  31 

39.  S 

Jan. 31 

38.4 

Jan.  31 

3S.4 

OOO 


BfiPOKT  OF   TARIFF   BOARD   02^"   SCHEDULE   K. 


Table  VT. — -4  record  of  actual  importations  and  scourings  in  a  representative  Ammcan] 
millj  covering  more  than  10,000,000  pounds  of  Class  Iivool — Continued. 


AUSTRALIAN  MERINOS— Continued. 


Date  of  importation 


Tan.  31 . 
Jan.  31 . 
Jan.  31 . 
Feb.  1.. 
Feb. 8.. 
Mar.  16. 
Oct.  4.. 
Nov.  23 . 
Nov.  25. 
Nov.  18. 
Nov.  19. 
Nov.  19. 
Nov.  25 . 
Nov.  25 . 
Nov.  23. 
Nov.  16. 
Nov.  23. 
Dec.  30. 

Dec.  6.. 
Dec.  10. 


Jan. 
Jan. 

Jan. 
Jan. 
Jan. 
Jan. 
Jan. 
Jan. 
Jan. 
Jan. 
Oct. 
Dec. 
Nov. 
Nov, 
Nov, 
Nov, 
Nov. 
Nov. 
Nov. 
Nov. 
Nov. 
Nov. 
Nov. 

Dec. 

Dec. 
Dec. 


Jan.  9 

Jan.  27 

Jan.  27.... 

Jan.  29 

Jan.  29.. . . , 

Jan.9 

Feb.5 

Feb.6 

Feb.  6 

Feb.  2 

Jan. 18 

Jan.  18 

Jan.  18 

Jan. 18 

Jan.  16 

Jan. 16..... 

•Jan.  23 

Jan.  23 

Jan.  25 

Jan.  25 


Xl^Ul . 


1008. 


6 

6 

25 

31 

31 

11 

31 

11 

20 

20 

25 

9 

11 

,  ZJ 

I  ifO  *  •  w  .  • 

,23 

21 

21 

28 

•  28 . . . . . 

28 

28 

28 

28 

2 

21. 

21 

15 

15 


1909. 


Number 
of  bales. 


17 
106 
203 

268 

223 

231 

163 

105 

86 

C8 

50 

69 

57 

61 

65 

39 

104 

80 

43 

51 

120 


7 

90 

99 

41 

36 

14 

58 

56 

131 

107 

54 

210 

190 

6 

132 

446 

190 

160 

40 

92 

174 

81 

117 

416 

67 

54 

13 

96 

52 


146 

140 

378 

120 

45 

268 

14 

45 

6 

431 

78 

28 

128 

220 

302 

51 

233 

26 

94 

148 


Net 
weight. 


Pounds. 

5,394 

33.528 

63.477 

103,953 
74,906 
84,739 
61.505 
33.623 
26,538 
23,457 
14,764 
22,574 
14,887 
18,608 
20,327 
10.986 
29,142 
19,618 
10,936 
17.160 
30,888 


2,106 
10, 171 
32,298 
1«,004 
11,560 

3,266 
20,091 
15,424 
35,127 
29.919 
18,896 
72,931 
64,102 

1,493 
41,903 
142,579 
61, 314 
44.111 
13, 157 
28,489 
60,542 
27,016 
37,Cfi8 
137, 178 
17,093 
19,166 

4,564 
31.610 
16,591 


41,790 
47.136 

129,  g45 
33.358 
13,737 
74,030 
4,236 
17,483 
2,014 

125,854 
27,448 
8,822 
44,112 
70,244 
97,818 
16,661 
74,369 
9,494 
32,064 
49,320 


Yield. 


Per  cent. 
51.50 
50.25 
50.51 
52.36 
52.35 
49.50 
50.00 
47.00 
47.60 
51.00 
54.00 
55.60 
53.00 
53.00 
63.66 
51.76 
52.67 
52.00 
52.00 
53.50 
52.50 


52.50 
53.50 
52.15 
54.00 
61.00 
62.50 
51.25 
52.50 
51.50 
51.00 
62.50 
60.25 
60.00 
53.00 
62.00 
62.92 
49.45 
49.21 
52.50 
53.00 
62.25 
49.86 
49.21 
50.20 
48.98 
54.00 
50.00 
53.21 
55.43 


54.50 
50.50 
50.75 
50.69 
51.22 
54.50 
51.50 
48.75 
52.00 
52.50 
52.00 
53.00 
51.50 
50.00 
49.50 
49.00 
50.58 
50.00 
63.49 
6a  96 


Price  per 

pound 

scoured. 


(kntt. 
53.64 
64.61 
66.44 
47.24 
60.24 
51.28 
64.75 
56.60 
53.84 
51.43 
56.63 
60.20 
56.25 
69.25 
59.51 
68.75 
66.12 
68.85 
65.85 
62.44 
51.05 


66.05 
59.44 
56.91 
60.63 
49.43 
63.05 
49.54 
56.05 
52.64 
55.43 
56.05 
50.11 
60.00 
51.25 
50.85 
51.21 
49.76 
49.65 
50.05 
52.25 
61.95 
49.94 
49.65 
47.08 
49.54 
60.63 
45.00 
46.33 
62.16 


63.82 
50.22 
50.33 
50. :« 
50.53 
63.82 
45.64 
49.43 
45.85 
49.00 
48.85 
60.25 
50.64 
50.00 
49.78 
47.53 
50.25 
48.00 
51.44 
60.41 


Duty 
paid  per 

pound 
scoured. 


Cents. 

21.36 
21.89 
21.78 
21.01 
21.01 
22.22 
22.00 
23.40 
23.16 
21.57 
20.37 
19.80 
20.75 
20.75 
20.49 
21.25 
20.88 
21.15 
21.15 
20.56 
20.95 


20.95 
20.56 
21.09 
20.37 
21.57 
20.95 
21.46 
20.95 
21.36 
21.57 
20.95 
21.89 
22.00 
20.75 
21.15 
20.79 
22.24 
22.35 
20.95 
20.75 
21.05 
22.06 
22.35 
21.92 
22.46 
20.37 
22.00 
20.67 
19.84 


20.18 
21.78 
21.67 
21.70 
21.47 
20.18 
21.36 
22.57 
21.25 
21.00 
21.15 
20.75 
21.36 
22.00 
22.22 
22.47 
21.75 
22.00 
20.56 
21.69 


Price  per 
pound 

scoured, 
duty 
paid. 


CerUs. 
75.00 
76.50 
77.22 
68.25 
71.25 
73.50 
76.75 
80.00 
77.00 
73.00 
77.00 
80.00 
77.00 
80.00 
80.00 
80.00 
77.00 
80.00 
77.00 
73.00 
72.00 


77.00 
80.00 
78.00 
71.00 
71.00 
74.00 
71.00 
77.00 
74.00 
77.00 
77.00 
72.00 
72.00 
72.00 
72.00 
72.00 
72.00 
72.00 
71.00 
73.00 
73.00 
72.00 
72.00 
69.00 
72.00 
71.00 
67.00 
67.00 
72.00 


74.00 
72.00 
72.00 
72.00 
72.00 
74.00 
67.00 
72.00 
67.00 
70.00 
70.00 
71.00 
72.00 
72.00 
72.00 
70.00 
72,00 
70.00 
72  00 
72.00  1 


Duty 
paid  ad 
valorem. 


PereenL 

39.8 
40.1 
39.3 
44.5 
41.8 
43.3 
40.2 
41.3 
43.0 
41.0 
36.0 
32.9 
36.9 
35.0 
34.4 
36.2 
37.2 
35.9 
37.9 
39.2 
41.0 


37.4 
34.6 
37.1 
40.2 
43.6 
39.5 
43.3 
37.4 
40.6 
38.9 
37.4 
43.7 
44.0 
50.5 
41.0 
40.0 
44.7 
45.0 
41.8 
39.7 
40.5 
44.2 
45.0 
46.6 
55.3 
41.0 
48.9 
44.0 
38.0 


37.5 
43.4 
43.1 
43.1 
42.0 
37.5 
46.8 
45.7 
46.1 
42.9 
43.3 
41.3 
42.2 
44.0 
44.6 
47.2 
43.3 
45.8 
400 
42.8 


REPORT  OF   TARIFF  BOARD   ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


389 


Table 


VT. — A  rward  of  actual  importations  and  scouring s  in  a  representative  American 
mill,  covering  more  than  10,000,000  pounds  of  Class  I  wool — Continued. 


1^ 


I 


AUSTRALIAN  MERINOS— Continued. 


Date  of  importation. 


ICOO 

Jan.  25 

Jan.  25 

Jan.  25 

Jan.  25 

Jan.  30 

Jan.  30 

Feb.l 

Fob.5 

Feb.6 

Feb.6 

Feb.  13 : 

Feb.  20 

Feb.  27 

Mar.2 

Mar.8 

Mar.8 

Mar.8 

Mar.8 

Mar.l7 

Mar.l7 

Mar.  17 

Mar.  17 

Mar.24 

Mar.24 

Mar.24 

Mar.24 

Mar.  20 

Oct.  18 

Oct.  23 

Oct.2() 

N0V..15 

Nov.  15 

Nov.  24 

Nov.  24 

Nov.  24 

Nov.  24 

Nov.  30 

Nov.30 

1911 
Mar.6 

Total 


Number 
of  bales. 


149 

14 

52 

29 

50 

59 

40 

57 

69 

15 

118 

57 

24 

593 

125 

37 

30 

142 

143 

168 

29 

130 

21 

125 

13 

74 

13 

146 

19 

24 

155 

5 

85 

36 

142 

261 

111 

6 


512 


13,067 


Net 
weight. 


Pounds. 
45,383 

4,054 
13,299 

8,127 
13,955 
18,340 
12, 157 
10, 113 
19,542 

4.957 
33.000 
17,515 

7,925 

168,845 

37,246 

12,302 

8,938 
39,674 
4(>,402 
52, 105 

6,676 
36, 152 

7,791 
39,773 

3,257 
20,841 

4,776 
50,544 

0,360 

8,853 
66,253 

1,790 
30,469 
11,585 
45,724 
91,023 
37,013 

1,790 


161,562 


4,142,681 


Yield. 


Per  cent. 
50.17 
53.00 
55.31 
54.50 
49.80 
62.69 
56.50 
50.38 
49.72 
53.31 
51.91 
50.33 
52.00 
50.75 
53.27 
52.06 
50.88 
50.45 
52.72 
60.88 
52.12 
50.88 
51.50 
50.96 
50.00 
51.19 
53.75 
48.75 
50.75 
47.75 
50.52 
52.00 
51.27 
54.00 
48.34 
51.27 
47.70 
49.50 


49.73 


Price  per 

pound 
scoured. 


Cents. 
50.08 
50.25 
64.12 
51.82 
47.91 
49.12 
50.53 
48.17 
47.88 
49.37 
48.81 
48.15 
48.85 
48.83 
52.35 
49.87 
51.39 
49.20 
52.13 
49.39 
51.90 
49.39 
51.64 
49.41 
51.00 
49.51 
49.53 
50.43 
51.33 
49.96 
56.23 
52.85 
56.55 
53.63 
55.25 
52.55 
52.94 
49.78 


51.88 


Duty 
paid  per 

pound 
scoured. 


Cents. 
21.92 
20.75 
19.88 
20.18 
22.09 
20.88 
19.47 
21.83 
22.12 
20.03 
21.19 
21.85 
21.15 
21. 07 
20.65 
21.13 
21.61 
21.80 
20.87 
21.61 
21.10 
21.61 
21.36 
21.59 
22.00 
21.49 
20.47 
22.57 
21.07 
23.04 
21.77 
21.15 
21.45 
20.37 
22.75 
21.45 
23.06 
22.22 


22.12 


Price  per 

pound 

scoured, 

duty 

paid. 


AUSTRALIAN  CROSSBREDS. 


1905. 

Dec.  9 

Dec.  13 

Dec.  2-) 

Dec.  28 

1906. 

Jan.  2 

Jan.  13 

Mar.  30 

Dec.  3 

Dec.  8 

Dec.l7 

Doc.  22 

Dec.  31 

Dec.  31 

Dec.31 

Dec.  31 

1907. 

Jan. 12 

Jan.  12 

Jan,  U) 

Jan.  23 

Feb.  8 


28 

7,693 

7 

2,078 

42 

11,714 

70 

18,750 

30 

10,178 

23 

7, 105 

19 

5,520 

22 

0,056 

68 

15,431 

71 

19, 144 

146 

39,724 

36 

10,935 

117 

34,756 

42 

13, 711 

80 

27,614 

167 

47,910 

49 

16,964 

40 

11,045 

31 

8,657 

11 

3,304 

Cents. 
72.00 
71.00 
74.00 
72.00 
70.00 
70.00 
70.00 
70.00 
70.00 
70.00 
70.00 
70.00 
70.00 
70.50 
73. 
71. 


,00 
.00 


73.00 
71.00 
73.00 
7L00 
73.00 
7L00 
73.00 
7L00 
73.00 
71.00 
70.00 
73.00 
73.00 
73.00 
78.00 
74.00 
78.00 
74.00 
78.00 
74.00 
76.00 
72.00 


74.00 


Duty 
paid  ad 
valorem. 


Per  cent. 
43.7 
4L3 
36.7 
38.9 
46.1 
42.5 
38.5 
45.3 
46.2 
41.8 
43.4 
45.3 
43.3 
44.3 
39.4 
42.4 
42.0 
44.2 
40.0 
43.9 
46.0 
43.7 
4L3 
43.7 
43.2 
43.4 
4L3 
44.7 
42.2 
46.1 
38.7 
40.0 
37.9 
37.9 
4L2 
40.8 
43.0 
44.0 


42.6 


63.32 

4.5. 63 

17. 37 

63.00 

72.00 

47.72 

15.28 

63.00 

62.68 

45.45 

17.55 

63.00 

61.43 

45.09 

17.91 

63.00 

65.35 

46.17 

16.83 

63.00 

59.16 

44.41 

18.59 

63.00 

6.5.00 

55.08 

16.92 

72.00 

68.25 

48.88 

10.12 

65.00 

01.53 

47.12 

17.88 

65.00 

04.31 

48.90 

17.10 

66.00 

65.23 

49.14 

16.86 

66.00 

60.83 

49.92 

18.08 

68.00 

63.11 

60.67 

17.43 

68.00 

62.38 

50.37 

17.63 

68.00 

69.00 

49.36 

18.04 

68.00 

66.78 

48.53 

16.47 

65.00 

59.50 

49. 51 

18.49 

68.00 

58.92 

49.33 

18.67 

68.00 

62.00 

50.26 

17.74 

68.00 

m.w 

60.26 

17.74 

68.00 

38.1 
32.0 
38.6 
39.7 


36.5 
4L9 
30.7 
32.9 
37.9 
34.9 
34.3 
36.2 
34.4 
35.0 
37.7 


33.9 
37.3 
37.8 
35.3 
36.3 


390 


BEPORT  OF  TAEIFF  BOAHD  OH  SCHEDULE  K. 


BEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


391 


i 


Table  VI. — A  record  of  actual  importatwiM  and  scmiringg  in  a  representatwe  American 
mill,  cohering  more  than  10,000,000  pounds  of  Class  /wool— Continued. 

AUSTRALIAN  CROSSBREDS-Contlnued. 


Date  of  impartation. 


Sept.  18... 
aept.18... 
Oct.  9..... 

Oct.9 

vlCto  12. . . , 

Oct.  16 

Oct.  16.... 
Oct.  18.... 

Oct.  18 

Oct.  23 

Oct,  23 

Oct.  23 

Nov.  3 

Not.  3 

Nov.  15 

Nov.  24.... 
Nov.  29.... 


1SIW« 


Number 
of  bales. 


Net 
weight. 


Jan.  12. 
Jsa.  17. 
Jan.  17. 
Jan.  17. 
Jan.  17. 
Jam.  31. 
Jan.  31. 
Jan.  21. 
Feb.  23. 


1910. 


40 
49 
81 

9 
23 
21 

8 
103 
42 
53 
56 
22 
68 
75 
28 
13 
39 


57 
45 
93 
5 
24 
40 
157 
47 
30 


Total. 


2,315 


Pmtnia. 

12,703 

16,428 

25,906 

3.254 

6.198 

6,  t>56 

2,422 

29.968 

11,273 

16,817 

16.278 

6,396 

17.532 

20,369 

8,410 

3,6:^5 

14,792 


16,877 
12.661 
27,  M4 
1,468 
8, 106 
11,804 
44,457 
15,650 
10,632 


Yield. 


686,536 


Percent. 

67.59 
58.36 
63.61 
55.00 
63.00 
65.25 
63.50 
64.50 
66.75 
61.25 
63.00 
57.00 
57.50 
63.00 
73.50 
69.00 
66.00 


62.75 
72.25 
68.75 
62.50 

68.50 
€6.00 
&t.00 

Vjif  p  Jpl) 


Price  per 
pound 
scoured. 


Duty 
paid  per 

poimd 
scoured. 


CctUs. 
50.90 
49.15 
50.71 
50.00 
50.54 
51.14 
52.68 
50.95 
60.62 
48.04 
50.54 
50.70 
50.87 

Oil.  5n 

40.  (M 
50.06 
49.33 


42.47 
42.77 
44.00 
38.82 
41. 51 
41.94 
42.06 
42.81 
42. 12 


Cents. 
19. 10 
18.85 
17.29 
20.00 
17.46 
16.86 
17.32 
17.06 
19.38 
17.96 
17.46 
19.30 
19.13 
17.46 
14.% 
15.94 
16.67 


17.63 
15.23 
16.00 
18.18 
18.49 
16.06 
15.94 
17.19 
15.88 


Price  per 
pound 

sooured, 
duty 
paid. 


Omti. 
70.00 
68.00 
68.00 
70.00 
68.00 
68.00 
70.00 
68.00 
70.00 
06.00 

08.  oe 

70.00 
70.00 
68.00 
55.00 
66.00 
66,00 


60.00 
58.00 
60.00 
57.00 
60.00 
58.00 
58.00 
60.00 
58.00 


SOUTH  AMERICAN  MERINOS. 


Mar.  19- 
Jolyl3. 
Aug.  17. 
Aug.  14. 
Dec.  27. 


1906. 


Mar.  19. 
Mar.  19. 
Mar.  16. 

Mar.  28. 
Mar.  28. 


1907, 


Oct.  8.. 
Oct.  8.. 
Oct.  15. 


1909. 


Total. 


39 

114 

217 

25 

27 


200 
199 
100 
102 
1HI2 


17 

00 

65 

205 


1.472 


37,289 

112,112 

217,953 

25,183 

26,793 


207,781 

2l).5.872 

101,  I9;i 

90,380 

Ml  001 


16,915 

.'58,025 

64,950 

201, 1G2 


1,455,602 


50.00 
50.00 
51.00 
61.00 


48.50 
49.50 
48.50 
47.00 
53.00 


48.00 
47.00 
45.00 
46.00 


46. 67 
51.00 
50.25 
51.68 
61.68 


52. 32 
53.53 
62.32 
47.08 
47.08 


51.09 
49. 35 
48.56 
48.59 


22.  a3 
22.00 
22.00 
21.57 
21.57 


22.68 
22.22 
22.68 
23.40 
20.76 


22.91 
Zi.lO 
24.44 
23.91 


69.00 
73.00 
72.25 
73.25 
73.26 


75.00 
75.  75 
75.00 
70.48 
67.83 


74.00 
72.75 
73.00 
72.50 


SOUTH  AMERICAN  CROSSBREDS. 


1906. 

Sept.  27 

Sept.  27 

Sept.  27 

Nov.28 

Nov.  28 

Dec.  20 

Dec.  12 

Dec.  22 

Dec.  20 


22 

19,879 

62.  Oil 

39.  ?6 

17.74 

57.00 

50 

43,416 

66.00 

38.08 

16.92 

66.00 

46 

19,879 

66.00 

36.08 

16.92 

53.00 

39 

36,347 

67.50 

40.71 

16.20 

67.00 

.'i5 

51,858 

63.00 

34.54 

17. 46 

52.00 

11 

9,888 

&5.00 

40.08 

16.92 

57.00 

60 

46.407 

66.00 

39.  60 

16.67 

56.27 

23 

20,(562 

&t.00 

41.81 

17.19 

59.00 

60 

47,.m'> 

66.00 

39.  m 

16.67 

56.27 

76 

70,758 

GB.00 

39.82 

16.18 

66.00 

Duty 
paid  ad 
valorem. 


Per  cent. 
37.5 
38.3 
34.1 
40.0 
^4.5 
32.9 
32.9 
33.4 
38.3 
37.4 
34.5 
38.1 
37.6 
34.5 
37.3 
31.8 
33.8 


41.3 
35.6 
36.4 
46.9 
44.5 
38.3 
37. « 
40.1 
37.4 


47.8 
43.1 

43.7 
41.7 
41.7 


43.3 
41.5 
43.3 
49.7 
44.1 


44.8 
47.4 
60.  .1 
40.2 


45.3 
44.4 
46.7 
40.0 
50.5 
42.2 
42.1 
41.1 
42.1 
40.6 


1  fi, 


Table  VI. — A  record  of  actual  importations  and  scourings  in  a  representative  American 
mill,  covering  more  than  10,000,000  pounds  of  Class  I  wool — Continued. 

SOUTH  AMERICAN  CROSSBREDS-Contlnued. 


Date  of  imjwrtation. 


1907. 

Jan.  7 

Mar.  14 

Dec.  28 

1908. 

Jan.  2 

Jan.  2 

Jan.  13 

Apr.  7 

Apr.  28 

Ahr.28 

May  15 

June  20 

June  27 

1909. 

Feb.  19 

Jan. 26 

Jan.  30 

Feb.S 

Mar.l 

Mar.l 

Apr.  19 

Apr.  19 

May  27 

May  28 

Julys 

July  7 

Oct.  1 

Oct.  1...- 

Oct.l 

Oct.l 

Oct.  1 

Oct.  1 

Oct.  1 

Oct.8 

Oct.8 

Oct.8 

Oct.8 

Oct.8 

Oct.8 

Nov.  15 

Nov.  15 

1910. 

Jan.  25 

Jan.2.'i 

Jan.  25 

Total 


Number 
of  bales. 


Net 
weight. 


200 

35 

100 


100 
100 
100 
100 
100 
100 
100 
100 
100 


100 

100 

100 

100 

100 

100 

100 

100 

537 

360 

56 

165 

21 

10 

36 

10 

19 

14 

8 

6 

36 

49 

49 

22 

14 

100 

100 


60 
195 
145 


4,457 


Pounds. 

184,675 

31,886 

93,715 


94,322 
91,244 
94,048 
93,885 
93,557 
94,313 
93,837 
98,230 
97,889 


97,000 

89,542 

89,917 

92,024 

91,491 

92,002 

87,860 

86,255 

272,668 

332,476 

52,305 

75,026 

12,972 

6,789 

23,716 

6,876 

13,081 

9,207 

3.836 

3,216 

24,940 

34,607 

34.928 

10,  .359 

5,091 

91,321 

88,396 


57,342 
186,075 
138, 370 


3,736,690 


Yield. 

Price  per 

poumi 

scourod. 

Duty 
paid  per 

pound 
scoured. 

Price  per 

pound 

sooured, 

duty 

IMid. 

Percent. 

Cents. 

Cents. 

Cents. 

66.50 

39.60 

16.54 

56,14 

58.00 

48.03 

18.97 

67.00 

67.50 

29.92 

16.29 

46.21 

66.75 

29.04 

16.48 

45.52 

64.00 

32.56 

17.19 

49.75 

66.50 

29.04 

16.54 

45.58 

66.50 

24.20 

16.64 

40.74 

66.50 

23.32 

16.54- 

39.86 

66.50 

22.00 

16.54 

38.54 

66.50 

22.00 

16.54 

38,54 

67.00 

22.82 

16.42 

39.  .30 

66.00 

22.88 

16.67 

39.55 

60.00 

34.67 

18.33 

53.00 

62.50 

32.56 

17.60 

50.16 

62.50 

32.66 

17.60 

50.16 

62.50 

33.88 

17.60 

51.48 

63.00 

33.88 

17.46 

5L34 

63.00 

34.32 

17.46 

51.78 

66.50 

28.60 

16.79 

45.39 

65.00 

28.60 

16.92 

45.62 

59.25 

35.44 

18.56 

51.00 

63.50 

30.80 

17.32 

48.12 

54.55 

41.84 

20.16 

62.00 

57.00 

44.28 

19.50 

63.78 

64.00 

39.82 

17.18 

67.00 

62.00 

39.26 

17.74 

57.00 

62.00 

37.26 

17.74 

55.00 

62.00 

39.26 

17.74 

57.00 

62.00 

34.26 

17.74 

52.00 

62.00 

34.26 

17.74 

52.00 

64.00 

37.82 

17.18 

55.00 

60.00 

46.67 

18.33 

65.00 

63.00 

43.54 

17.46 

61.00 

64.00 

39.82 

17.18 

57.00 

64.00 

39.82 

17.18 

67.00 

63.50 

43.68 

17.32 

61.00 

62.00 

41.26 

17.74 

69.00 

66.00 

35.20 

16.67 

51.87 

66.00 

35.20 

16.67 

51.87 

55.50 

45.19 

19.81 

65.00 

60.00 

42.67 

18.33 

61.00 

63.00 

38.04 

17.46 

55.60 

Duty 

paid  ad 

valorem. 


Per  cent. 
41.8 
39.5 
54.4 


56.7 
62.8 
56.9 
68.3 
70.9 
75.2 
76.2 
71.8 
72.9 


52.9 
54.0 
51.0 
51.9 
5L5 
50.9 
58.7 
50.2 
52.3 
56.2 
48.2 
44.0 
43.1 
45.1 
47.6 
45.1 
51.7 
51.7 
45.4 

40.0 
43.1 
43.1 
39.6 
42.9 
47.3 
47.3 


43.8 

42.9 
46.8 


It  is  evident  from  the  preceding  tables  that  American  manufac- 
turers can  not  import  heavy  shrinlang  wool  under  the  present  system 
of  levying  the  duty  except  at  a  relatively  high  cost.  Furthermore, 
there  are  certain  sorts  of  wool, 'such  as  the  snort  clippings  from  the 
neck  and  legs,  the  britch  locks,  etc.,  in  the  main  those  portions  of  a 
fleece  that  are  commonly  removed  by  skirting,  which  though  less 
valuable  than  the  longer  and  cleaner  sorts,  yet  have  their  use,  par- 
ticularly in  the  carded  woolen  industry.  These  as  a  matter  of  course 
can  not  be  profitably  imported  under  the  operation  of  a  specific  duty 
upon  the  grease  pound. 


«i 


S92 


BEPOBT  OF  TAEIFF  BOAED  OF  SCHEDULE  K. 


BEPORT  OF  TABIFF  BOAED  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


393 


HOW    CAX    THE    OBJECTIONS    TO    THE    PRESENT    SYSTEM    OF    LEVYING 

DUTIES  BE   OVERCOME. 

Various  methods  are  suggested  to  remedy  the  unequal  working  of 
the  present  law  and  permit  the  importation  of  the  various  sorts  of 
wool  on  approximately  equal  terms. 

The  first  method  is  to  substitute  an  ad  valorem  for  our  present 
specific  duty  on  wool  in  the  grease.  It  is  claimed  by  those  who  favor 
an  ad  valorem  duty  that  aU  the  variations  in  the  character  of  grease 
wool,  both  as  to  the  amount  of  impurities  which  it  carries  and  as  to 
the  quality  of  its  fiber,  are  registered  in  the  price  paid  for  it.  Conse- 
quently, it  is  asserted  that  a  duty  assessed  on  the  value  would  at  once, 
without  any  elaborate  macliinery,  either  of  clasdfication  or  collection, 
correspond  closely  to  the  character  of  the  wool. 

As  to  the  operation  of  such  a  duty  in  the  case  of  raw  wool  it  is 
impossible  to  state  a  final  conclusion  in  the  absence  of  experience  in 
the  matter.  It  is  claimed,  on  the  one  hand,  that  it  is  oifficult  for 
even  the  most  expert  to  determine  the  real  value  of  wool  in  its  natural 
state  and  that  the  attempt  to  levy  an  ad  valorem  duty  would  lead  to 
continuous  uncertainty  and  dispute,  together  vdih  fraud  and  under- 
valuation. On  the  other  hand,  it  is  contended  that  values  of  wool 
are  definitely  determined  by  auction  sales  at  certain  points;  that  the 
m-ades  are  more  or  less  standardized  and  that  a  fair  valuation  can 
therefore  be  made. 

In  this  connection  we  may  digress  at  this  point  long  enough  to  refer 
briefly  to  methods  of  marketing. 

During  the  progress  of  the  London  sales  the  wools  to  be  sold  each 
day  are  exposed  for  examination,  the  entire  lots,  in  well-Hghted  ware- 
houses, where  thej  can  be  examined  and  valued  by  the  buyers.  Cata- 
logues are  provided  which  give  the  clip  marks  and.  any  other 
descriptions  which  may  be  upon  the  bales.  Later  in  the  day  the 
sales  begin  in  the  salesroom  on  Coleman  Street,  and  every  lot  is 
promptly  sold  to  the  highest  bidder,  except  such  as  may  be  withdrawn, 
and  also  the  "star  lots."  These  are  lots  of  from  one  to  three  bales, 
wliich  are  put  up  and  sold  after  all  the  larger  lots  have  been  disposed 
of.  After  the  sales  printed  catalogues  are  distributed  b}^  the  brokers 
to  consigners  and  purchasers  of  wools,  and  a  permanent  record  is  thus 
obtained  of  every  lot  disposed  of  at  the  auction. 

In  Melbourne,  Geelong,  Sydney,  and  Brisbane  a  similar  plan  is  fol- 
lowed, except  that  not  more  than  10  bales  of  each  lot  are  exposed  for 
examination.  In  Liverpool  the  India  wools  are  sold  in  a  siinilar  way 
at  auction  six  times  a  year,  and  there  are  other  sales  of  miscellaneous 
foreign  wools  at  auction,  all  of  which  are  catalogued  as  at  London. 

In  Buenos  Aires  the  wool  comes  to  market  to  commission  merchants 
and  is  opened  up  and  exposed  for  sale  in  a  manner  similar  to  the  prac- 
tice in  America,  but  the  wools  are  not  closely  graded.  Agents  for 
American  and  European  clients  buy  these  wools  from  the  commission 
merchants,  classify  them  according  to  the  needs  of  their  various  cus- 
tomers, and  bill  and  sliip  in  accordance  with  the  orders  which  they  may 
have.  The  identity  of  the  clips  is  not  preserved,  nor  is  there  any 
record  of  the  original  price  paid  for  the  ungraded  clips. 

In  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  wools  have  usually  been  bought  by  local 
dealers  from  the  growers  and  the  various  lots  assembled  until  the 
quantity  was  large  enougli  for  shipment  to  London  or  elsewhere. 
Wools  have  not  been  classed  to  any  extent  in  the  Cape,  as  in  Austra- 


) 


lia,  when  shorn,  but  there  are  a  few  growers  now  who  do  classify  their 
wools  and  put  them  up  in  superior  condition,  commanding  tha 
highest  prices  in  London, 

Wools  in  New  Zealand  are  sold  at  auction  at  various  markets  on 
the  different  islands,  and  the  greater  portion  of  the  wools  are  shipped 
in  original  package  with  the  original  marks.  There  are  a  great  many 
small  clips  which  run  very  irregular  in  quality,  and  in  recent*  years 
it.  has  been  the  policy  of  some  buyers  to  collect  a  number  of  these 
irregular  clips  and  grade  them  so  that  the  qualities  will  run  uniform 
in  the  bales.  These  lots  are  put  in  the  original  sheets  from  which 
they  were  taken  and  are  classed  as  '^ Cased  wool,"  enabling  the  manu- 
facturer to  secure  just  the  grade  of  wool  he  requires.  These  wools 
if  used  here  would  otherwise  have  to  come  to  the  hands  of  dealers 
and  be  regraded  before  they  could  be  sold  to  manufacturers,  who 
could  not  probably  use  the  qualities  not  suitable  for  their  wants. 

The  so-called  ''off  sorts,"  consisting  of  skirtings,  tags,  locks,  and 
other  cheap  by-products,  are  developed  when  the  wools  are  sorted 
and  classed  preparatory  to  being  offered  for  sale.  This  is  especially 
the  case  in  Australia  and  New  Zealand.  In  South  America,  as  in 
several  other  markets,  the  wools  are  disposed  of  by  the  growers  in 
piles,  including  the  ''off  sorts,"  and  are  then  classed  by  the  purchasers 
and  either  sold  privately  or  sent  to  Europe  to  be  offered  at  auction 
or  private  sale.  The  "off  sorts"  represent  the  most  inferior  part  of 
the  fleece  and  have  a  correspondingly  low  value.  They  are  disposed 
of  in  the  same  manifold  ways  that  wool  generally  is  dealt  m,  at 
private  sales,  as  well  as  at  auctions,  in  the  colonies,  in  England,  and  on 
the  Continent.  Considerable  quantities  of  this  class  of  wool  are 
scoured  in  the  country  of  origin,  reaching  the  central  auctions  or  the 
European  buyers  in  the  clean  state.  It  not  infrequently  happens 
that  the  scouring  process  enliances  the  value  of  the  clean  content  in 
the  case  of  "off  sorts"  in  greater  degree  than  in  the  case  of  straight 
fleeces.  That  is  to  say,  a  low-grade  wool  selling  at  around  8  cents 
per  pound  in  the  grease  might  become  worth  more  than  20  cents 
clean;  whereas  a  fleece  worth  22  cents  in  the  grease  would,  perhaps, 
merely  have  its  value  doubled  by  the  cleaning  process. 

While  it  is  true  that  great  quantities  of  wool  pass  through  the 
various  marts  of  public  appraisal,  it  is  well  known  that  purchases 
are  also  made  on  the  ranches  of  Australia,  New  Zealand,  the  Cape 
Colonies,  and  in  South  America,  as  well  as  in  the  wool  centers  and 
seaports  of  those  countries.  There  are  transfers  at  Antwerp,  Havre, 
Bremen  and  Leipzig,  and  in  all  primary  markets  where  wools  are 
offered  there  are  various  prices  current  for  identical  lots  offered  at 
the  same  time.  Even  at  London  buyers  may  pay  20  cents,  22  cents, 
or  24  cents  per  pound  on  the  same  day  for  wools  of  the  same  class. 

In  addition  to  the  fluctuations  in  the  same  market  are  the  fluctua- 
tions between  the  different  markets  of  the  world,  the  result  of  which 
is  that  on  a  certain  steamer  arriving  in  New  York  there  might  be 
found  wools  bought  in  the  different  markets,  some  coming  direct  from 
Australia,  South  America,  etc.,  others  having  been  bought  at  the  Ant- 
werp or  London  sales  and  shipped  thence.  The  difference  in  price 
paid  for  these  wools  bought  at  different  places  could  be  equal  to  the 
amount  of  the  ad  valorem  duty.  This  feature  is  still  further  accen- 
tuated by  the  fact  that  it  may  take  from  two  to  three  months  for 
wools  to  reach  America  from  Australasia  if  brought  direct. 


S94 


BEPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOAED  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


There  is  no  means  of  estimating  the  amount  of  wool  bought  pri- 
vately in  foreign  parts.  In  the  case  of  class  III  wools  there  are  large 
transactions  of  which  there  is  no  public  record.  While  it  is  true  there- 
fore that  there  are  regular  quotations  for  wool  at  certain  important 
centers,  and  that  for  wool  shipped  from  such  a  center,  on  a  given 
date,  of  an  established  grade,  it  should  not  be  difficult  to  determine 
the  approximate  value,  the  fact  remains  that  wool  is  now  imported, 
and  imder  an  ad  valorem  duty  much  more  would  be  imported  from 
points  where  values  are  not  definitely  established,  and  serious  diffi- 
culties would  inevitablj  arise  in  the  effort  to  determine  them.  In 
the  second  place,  wool  is  not  always  offered  for  sale  in  a  sorted  condi- 
tion. It  is  impossible  to  determine  before  a  lot  is  sorted  what 
proportion  of  it  is  of  one  quaUty  with  a  certain  value,  and  what 
proportion  is  of  other  qualities  with  other  values.'  It  is  well  within 
the  range  of  probabihty  that  imder  an  ad  valorem  duty  points  of 
shipment  could  be  so  selected  and  the  blending  of  grades  might  be 
so  adjusted  as  effectually  to  conceal  the  market  value  of  particular 
lots  of  wool. 

The  economic  objection  to  an  ad  valorem  duty  on  wool  arises 
from  the  fact  that  the  amount  of  duty  paid,  since  it  fluctuates  with 
the  foreign  value  of  the  commodity,  would  not  be  adjusted  to  the 
needs  of  the  Government,  of  the  consumer,  nor  of  the  American  wool- 
grower.  A  speculative  change  in  the  market  which  increased  the 
price  of  wool  would  automatically  lead  to  an  increase  in  the  amount 
of  duty  at  the  very  time  that  the  manufacturer  is  most  hampered  by 
the  existing  high  price,  when  the  consumer  most  needs  relief,  and  the 
woolgrower  is  most  prosperous.  On  the  other  hand,  a  fall  in  price  brings 
a  reduction  of  duty  at  a  time  when  the  woolgrower  is  at  greatest 
disadvantage  and  when  manufacturers  can  best  afford  to  pay  the  tax. 

The  tendency  of  sheep  breeding  all  over  the  world  is  toward  cross- 
breds,  and  the  advocates  of  ad  valorem  wool  duties  have  complained 
that  under  the  present  system  of  specific  duties  crossbreds  can  be 
imported  more  lavorably  than  merinos,  and  that  when  the  market 
for  crossbreds  declines  the  advantage  in  favor  of  the  crossbreds  is 
still  further  increased.  During  the  season  1906-7,  which  was  a 
normal  one,  the  specific  duty  on  South  American  crossbreds,  taking 
into  account  the  prices  then  prevailing  in  the  foreign  markets,  was 
equivalent  to  an  ad  valorem  rate  of  about  43-45  per  cent.  In  the 
following  season,  1907-8,  including  the  time  of  the  financial  panic, 
prices  abroad  declined  steadily,  so  that  in  May,  1908,  the  specific  duty 
on  the  same  grade  of  crossbrecl  wool  was  equivalent  to  an  ad  valorem 
rate  of  75  per  cent.  By  thus  increasing  tlie  ad  valorem  equivalent 
when  foreign  prices  are  low  and  decreasing  it  when  foreign  prices  are 
high  the  specific  duty  automatically  protects  American  woolgrowers 
against  declines  in  the  wool  markets  abroad  and  at  the  same  time 
favors  the  American  buyer  when  the  foreign  wools  increase  in  value. 
In  the  case  of  drought  or  other  calamity  in  the  American  wool- 
growing  industry  and  overproduction  abroad,  or  vice  versa,  the 
specific  duties  would  have  a  corrective  tendency.  Ad  valorem  duties 
would  act  in  an  entirely  contrary  manner--decreasing  with  the 
decline  of  values  abroacl  and  increasing  with  the  rise  of  foreign 
markets,  thus  tending  to  throw  open  the  American  market  to  foreign 
wools  in  times  of  depression,  when  they  could  least  withstand  such 
pressure,  and,  on  the  other  hand,  when  there  was  a  scarcity  of  wool 
at  home  and  prices  soared,  it  would  be  impossible  to  find  reUef  abroad. 


BEPORT  OF  TABIFF  BOARD   OlSf  SCHEDULE  TL 


395 


1 


America  occujiies  a  unique  position  among  the  nations  with  regard 
to  her  woolgrowing  and  wool  manufacturing,  haying  practically  no 
outlet  for  either  in  foreign  markets.  The  American  woolgrower  is 
entirely  dependent  upon  the  home  market.  If  the  basic  idea  of  the 
duty  on  wools  is  to  give  the  domestic  grower  permanent  protection, 
it  should  remain  as  uniformly  effective  as  possible  under  all  changes 
of  foreign  conditions  (shortage,  overproduction,  etc.).  Ad  valorem 
duties  would  not  accomplish  this,  bemg  ineffective  in  times  of  over- 
production and  low  prices  abroad  and  giving  an  unnecessarily  high 
protection  in  times  of  scarcity  and  high  prices  in  foreign  countries. 

A   SPECIFIC    GREASE    POUND   RATE    BASED   ON    SHRINKAGE. 

Another  method  which  has  been  frequently  suggested  as  a  means 
of  overcoming  the  discrimination  agam^  certam  classes  of  wools 
inlierent  in  a  specific  rate  on  the  grease  pound  is  that  of  graduating 
the  specific  duty  according  to  the  shrinkage.  This  ineans  the  apph- 
cation  of  a  relatively  low  specific  rate  on  high-shrinking  wools  and  a 
progressive  increase  in  the  duty  as  the  amount  of  shrmkage  dimin- 
i^es,  so  that  the  rate  should  be  practically  the  same  per  pound  of 
clean  wool  contained  in  the  grease  wool.  If  carried  to  its  logical 
conclusion,  this  would  necessitate  a  different  rate  on  each  of  many 
classes  of  wools — say,  for  example,  10  classes  ranging  from  those 
shrmkhig  25  per  cent  to  those  shrinking  70  per  cent  or  more,  accord- 
ing to  each  5  per  cent  variation.  The  greater  the  number  of  classes 
the  more  complicated  the  system  would  become.  On  the  other  hand, 
the  fewer  the  number  of  classes — that  is,  the  wider  the  spread  in  the 
per  cent  of  shrinkage — the  greater  would  be  the  temptation  to  under- 
estimate the  shrinkage  in  order  to  §et  the  benefit  of  the  lower  rate 
of  the  class  below.  The  resulting  evil  in  either  case  would  be  serious. 
If  such  a  system  could  be  practically  administered,  it  would,  to  be 
sure,  have  the  effect  of  adjusting  the  duties  to  the  clean  content  of 
the  wool  and  not  to  the  dirt  and  grease,  and  this  is  the  object  of 
such  proposals.  If,  however,  the  classes  are  made  numerous  enough 
to  really  eft'ect  the  desired  change,  there  would  inevitably  be  so  many 
disputes  as  to  the  estimated  shrinkage  that  the  Govermnent  would 
have  to  stand  ready  to  make  actual  tests  on  large  quantities  of  wool. 
In  such  case  the  system  would  prove  merely  a  complex  and  round- 
about method  of  arriving  at  a  rate  of  dutv  proportionate  to  the  clean 
wool  contained,  which  apparently  could  be  accomplished  more  easily 
by  assessing  the  duty  directly  on  the  scoured  content  of  the  wool. 

A  modification  of  this  system  has  been  advocated  in  some  quarters, 
designed  to  remove  the  discrimination  against  wools  of  high  shrink- 
age, and  at  the  same  time  avoid  the  administrative  difficulties  of  a 
compUcated  scale  of  graduation.  This  it  aims  to  do  by  fixing  the 
mimmum  rate  of  shrinkage  (with  maximum  duty)  at  a  point  wliich 
would  render  unnecessary  the  careful  determination  of  sm-inkages  on 
the  great  bulk  of  imports. 

It  may  be  presented  thus,  the  highest  rate  used,  for  purposes  of 
illustration,  being  the  rate  now  in  force: 

Cents  per 
grease  pound. 

Wools  shrinking  not  over  55  per  cent 11 

Wools  shrinking  over  55  per  cent,  but  not  over  60  per  cent 9 J 

Wools  shrinking  over  60  per  cent,  but  not  over  65  per  cent 8 J 

Wools  shrinking  over  65  per  cent 7^ 


396 


jl 


BEPOBT  OF  TAEIFF  BOAKD   ON   SCHEDULE  K, 


It  is  argued  in  behalf  of  this  proposition  that  the  effect  of  the  pro- 
posed division  would  be  that  by  far  the  majority  of  wools  imported 
would  f aU  into  the  class  shrinking  less  than  55  per  cent  and  would 
be  entered  at  once  under  the  highest  duty,  and  no  question  would 
arise  as  to  the  correctness  of  the  entry. 

The  wools  shrinking  over  55  per  cent  would  be  mostly  for  use  in 
makinff  woolen  goods  and  the  percentage  of  those  wools  imported 
would  De  very  considerably  smaller  than  the  percentage  of  those  of 
lighter  shrinkage.  At  the  same  time  manufacturers  desiring  to 
import  such  heavier  shrinking  wools  could  do  so  upon  practically 
the  same  basis  as  the  lighter  shrinking  wools. 

,  The  shrinkage  of  all  wools  coming  in  below  the  maximum  rate  of 
duty  could  be  ascertained  with  reasonable  accuracj^  in  this  country 
at  the  port  of  entry  without  regard  to  foreign  piices  or  estimates. 
Whatever  testing  might  be  necessary  could  be  done  in  a  Government 
sorting,  scouring,  and  conditioning  house,  like  those  already  con- 
ducted by  private  firms  in  tliis  country,  or  the  wool  might  even  be 
sent  direct  to  the  mills  in  bond  and  the  testing  done  under  Govern- 
ment supervision,  under  somewhat  the  same  system  of  control  as  is 
now  followed  for  the  internal  revenue.  As  already  stated,  wools 
shrinking  over  55  per  cent  would  form  the  smaller  proportion  of  the 
total  importations,  and  for  these  only  would  tests  have  to  be  made. 
During  the  course  of  the  year,  say,  200,000,000  pounds  of  wool  are 
imported,  of  which  160,000,000  to  170,000,000  pounds  would  pay  the 
maximum  duty,  leaving  about  thirty  to  forty  million  pounds  to  be 
entered  under  the  lower  classification,  from  which  tests  would  have 
to  be  made  to  determine  the  correctness  of  the  declared  shrinkage. 
On  the  basis  of  the  figures  given,  the  amount  of  wool  to  be  tested 
annually  would  amount  to  between  three  and  four  million  pounds. 

This  plan,  which  has  certain  advantages,  is  open  to  the  objection 
that  always  lies  against  an  arbitrary  change  of  rate  at  given  fixed 

goints,  although  such  dividing  fines,  based  on  values,  weights,  etc., 
ave  long  been  employed  in  our  tariff  laws  to  refieve  the  rigidity  that 
attaches  to  flat  rates.  In  any  case,  the  system  fails  to  make  any 
readjustment  as  to  wools  now  actuallv  imported.  A  change  to  this 
systim,  without  a  change  in  actual  rates  of  duty,  would  lelve  these 
wools  exactly  where  they  stand  to-day,  merely  opening  a  door  to 
wools  now  completely  excluded. 

A   SPECIFIC  DUTY  ON  THE   SCOURED  CONTENT. 

A  tliird  method  of  remedying  the  unequal  working  of  the  present 
law  fies  in  substituting  for  the  specific  duty  on  the  grease  pound  a 
specific  duty  on  the  scoured  content  of  wool.  Such  a  duty  would  rest 
upon  the  material  as  it  actually  stands  avaOable  for  the  use  of  the 
manufacturer,  and  would  not  involve  the  taxation  of  the  great  quan- 
tity of  grease  and  impurities  that  raw  wool  contains.  Furthermore, 
it  would  admit  on  equal  terms  wools  of  light  and  of  heavy  shrinkage 
which  our  present  method  fails  to  do. 

The  proposal  to  levy  a  duty  on  the  scoured  pound  of  wool  impfies 
that  it  IS  possible  to  select  samples  that  are  fairly  representative  of  a 
consignment  of  wool,  and  to  ascertain  the  clean  content  of  the  con- 
signment by  scouring  and  conditioning  such  samples.    It  also  impfies 


BEPOBT  OF  TAEIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K, 


397 


« 


the  establishment  of  conditioning  houses  to  be  maintained  by  the 
Government  at  leading  ports  of  entry.  The  Tariff  Board  has  carefully 
investigated  this  matter  and,  with  the  aid  of  the  Bureau  of  Standards, 
has  reached  the  conclusion  that  it  is  not  only  possible  but  it  is  rela- 
tively a  simple  matter  to  test  wool  by  sample  at  the  time  of  importa- 
tion. It  has  also  ascertained  that  the  machinery  required  for  scour- 
ing and  conditioning  wool  in  small  lots  is  inexpensive  and  could  be 
promptly  installed,  and  the  cost  of  operation  would  be  fight.  If 
Congress  should  deem  it  wise  to  adopt  this  method  of  coUecting  duties 
upon  raw  wool,  it  would  seem  that  the  details  necessary  for  its  prompt, 
enicient,  and  economical  administration  may  safely  be  left  to  the 
proper  administrative  officers  of  the  Government. 

In  this  connection  the  following  table  of  ecjuivalents  becomes  of 
value  and  interest.  It  shows  for  wools  of  different  shrinkage  the 
equivalent  duty  on  the  grease  pound  after  applying  certain  specific 
duties  on  the  scoured  content : 

Table  VII. — Specific  scoured  pound  rates,  with  grease  pound  equivalents,  on  wools  of 

various  shrinkages. 


Shrmkagc. 


75  per  cent 
70  per  cent 
65  per  cent 
eo  per  cent 
55  per  cent 
60  per  cent 
45  per  cent 
40  per  cent 
35  per  cent 
30  per  cent 
25  per  cent 
20  per  cent 


Grease  poimd  equivalents. 


Duty  per 

scoured 

pound, 

33  cents. 


Duty  per 
scoured 
pound, 

30  cents. 


$0.0S^ 
.13i 

Am 

.16^ 
.18^ 
.191 
.21^ 

.23^ 

.24i 

.261 


Duty  per 
scoured 
pound, 

25  cents. 


$0.07J 
.09 

.m 

.12 

.131 

.15 

.ICi 

.18 

.19J 

.21 

.22J 

.24 


$0.06} 
.07* 
.081 
.10 

.Hi 
.m 

.131 

.15 

.16} 

.17* 

.181 

.20 


Duty  per 
scoured 
pound, 

20cents< 


Duty  per 
scoured 
I)ound, 

18  cents. 


$0.05 
.06 
.07 
.08 

•  Iftf 

.10 
.11 
.12 
.13 
.14 
.15 
.16 


$0.04J 
.051 

.06A 

.07i 

.08iV 

.09 

.09A 

.10^ 

■  llA 


.141 


Duty  pel 

scoured 

pound, 

15  cents. 


$0,033 


.06 

.06f 

.07* 

.08i 

.09 


12 


Objection  is  made  to  a  fiat  rate  upon  the  scoured  pound  on  the 
ground  that  it  would  not  be  fair  to  subject  wools  of  varying  value 
to  a  uniform  rate  of  duty.  It  must  be  conceded  that  there  is  some 
reason  in  this,  but  in  any  event  it  would  give  access  to  all  fine,  heavy 
fleeces  on  equal  terms  with  the  lighter-conditioned  wools,  thus 
meeting  one  great  objection  to  the  existing  law.  So  far  as  the  low- 
priced  products  of  the  skirting  and  sorting  processes,  warehouse 
sweepings,  etc.,  are  concerned,  it  may  be  said  that  their  value  would 
probably  rise  under  the  stimulus  of  American  competition  to  a 
point  where  the  imposition  of  a  flat  rate  would  not  place  the  importer 
at  such  disadvantage  as  might  at  first  appear.  It  appears  that 
tliis  cheap  wool  does  not  reach  London  in  the  grease  in  any  quantity. 
The  records  of  the  year  ending  November  1,  1911,  at  that  point 
show  that  out  of  960,750- bales  sold  only  1,603  bales  brought  less 
than  8  cents  per  pound  in  the  grease.    There  were  during  that 


398 


BEFOBr  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDXTLE  E. 


I 


rmod  record  of  but  13  bales  sold  in  London  for  as  low  a  price  m 
cents  per  pound.    Tbe  figures  follow: 

Number  of  baUs  sold  at  Ltmdom  tmctums/Gr  IZ  months  at  8  cents  per  pound  or  under. 


4  pence,  or  8  ctmia 

3f  peDce,  or  7|  cents 

3|  pence,  or  7  cento 

3|  pence,  or  &J  cents.  . . 

3  pence,  or  6  cents 

2|  pence,  or  5|  cents. .  - 

2|  pence,  w  5  cents 

2\  pence,  or  4|  cents 

2  pence,  or  4  cents 


Bales. 

567 

355 

290 

95 

159 

26 

26 

11 

23 


If  pence,  or  Z^  cents. 
1|  pence,  or  3  cents. . 
ij  pence,  or  2^  c^its. 

1  pence,  or  2  cents 

I  pence,  or  1|  cents.. 

I  pence,  or  1  cent 

I  pence,  or  |  cent 


Total. 


Bates. 
2 

4 

13 
4 
1 
1 

1,603 


In  this  connection  it  should  also  be  added  that  a  considerable 
quantity  of  merino  wool  appears  in  London  for  sale  in  a  scoured 
condition.  Such  wool  universally  represents  the  heaw  shrinkage 
wools  of  Australia,  New  Zealand,  ana  British  South  Africa,  which, 
were  they  to  reach  London  in  their  natural  conchtion,  would  have 
paid  so  heavily  in  freight  on  the  grease  and  dirt  contained  as  to  have 
lessened  materially  the  return  to  the  growers.  To  offset  this,  scour- 
ing stations  have  been  estabHshed  in  those  sections  where  the  heavy- 
shrink  wools  are  reduced  to  a  scoured  condition  and  freight  paid 
only  on  the  clean  wool  therein  contained,  thus  netting  the  grower 
a  more  remunerative  price  than  if  shipped  to  market  as  shorn  from 
the  sheep.  The  presence  of  this  large  quantity  of  scoured  wool  in 
London  eliminates  a  certain  amount  of  wool  which  would  raise  to  a 
higher  figure  the  average  shrinkage  of  wools  as  offered  from  tho 
above-named  countries  if  they  appeared  in  these  public  auctions  in 
their  original  condition.  The  present  duty  on  scoured  wool  of  33 
cents  per  pound  is  proliibitive,  because  so  greatly  in  excess  of  the 
duty  on  the  grease  pound.  If  all  wool  were  imported  on  the  basis  of 
clean  content,  the  above-mentioned  scoured  wools  would  probably 
become  available  to  the  manufacturer  of  woolens. 

It  is  true  that  the  refuse  of  over  325,000,000  pounds  of  domestic 
wool  is  alreadv  available  at  very  low  prices,  as  well  as  the  entire 
spring  and  fall  clips  of  short  Texas  and  California.  This,  however, 
ifoes  not  alter  the  fact  that  the  present  duty  excludes  the  scoured 
"off  sorts"  of  the  foreign-grown  clips. 

The  fixed  charges  on  importations  that  rest  upon  weight  alone,  as 
against  value,  such  as  freiojht,  cartage,  etc.,  aggregate  quite  an 
appreciable  amount,  and  this  in  any  case  operates  to  put  more  or 
less  of  a  premium  on  lighter  shrinking  wools. 

A  full  consideration  of  the  above  facts  would  seem  to  indicate  that 
some  method  of  assessing  a  specific  rate  on  the  clean  content  would 
remedy  most  of  the  primary  faults  of  Schedule  K;  that  it  would  best 
safeguard  the  important  revenues  derived  by  the  Government  fixjm 
wool  duties;  that  it  would  insure  greater  stabihty  in  the  industries 
directly  concerned  than  any  other  system. 

IXBTATUSD  ESTIMATES  ON  YIELDS  ANB  SHBINKAGBS  OF  VABIOXTS 

LEADING  FOREIGN  CLIPS. 

The  follo%ving  complete  detailed  estimate  of  the  usual  yields  and 
shrinkages  of  various  important  foreign-grown  wools  has  been  pre- 


EEPOBT  OP  TARIFF  BOABD   ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


399 


' 


pared  for  the  board  by  one  of  the  leading  authorities  in  the  trade  at 
the  great  English  manufacturing  center,  Bradford,  and  for  compara- 
tive purposes  is  a  valuable  compilation.  In  foreign  wool-trading 
circles  qualities  are  indicated  by  tiie  results  anticipated  in  spinning. 
Wools  designated  as  sixty-fours  are  those  which  are  expected  to  spin 
into  yam,  64  ''hanks''  of  wliich  would  weigh  1  pound,  a  ''hank" 
being  560  yards  of  yarn.  These  designations  are  used  in  the  esti- 
mates below. 

In  this  connection  it  may  be  said  that  the  sixties  "Botanv  top" 
represents  probably  the  largest  line  of  fine  wool  in  the  markets  of 
the  world.    The  combed  product  of  our  "fine  medium"  grade  would 

Erobably  approximate  this  sixties  top.     Our  three-fourths  and  full- 
lood  merinos  spin  up  to  sixty-fours,  sixty-sixes,  and  seventies. 

English  feece  wools. 


Lincoln  h(^ 

Lincoln  wethers 

Nottingham  hogs 

Nottingham  wethers 

Leicester  hogs 

Leicester  Mothers 

Devongreasy 

Wensleydale  hogs 

Wensleydalo  wethers 

Yorkshiife  hogs  (average) 

Yorkshire  wethers  (average) 

North  hogs 

North  wethers 

Irish  hogs,  super 

Irish  wethers,  super 

Irish  hogs,  selected 

Irish  wotherSj  selected 

Irish  niountam 

Irish  Scotch 

Selected  Kent  tegs 

Sdected  Kent  wethers 

Super  Stafford  hogs 

Super  Stafford  wethers 

Half-bred  hogs  (Midland  cmmties) — 
Half-bred  wethers  (Midland  counties) 

Norfolk  half-bred  ho^ 

Norfolk  haU-bred  wetliers 

Best  Scotch  cross  bogs 

Best  Scotch  cross  wethers 

Cheviot  hogs,  sup* 

Cheviot  wethers,  super 

Scotch  black-faced  hogs 

Scotch  black-faced  ewes  and  wethers.. 

Southdown  t^s 

Southdown  ewes. 

Pick  Shropshire  hogs 

Pick  Shropshire  wethers 

Wiltshire  Down  togs 

Wiltshire  Down  ewes 

Hampsliire  Down  tegs 

Hampshire  Down  ewes 

Dorset  Down  tegik 

Dorset  Down  ewes 

Oxford  Down  tegs 

Oxford  Down  ewes 

Eastern  counties  Down  tegs 

Eastern  counties  Down  ewes 

Lonk  ewes  and  wethers 

Welsh  fleeces: 

Selected 

Best 

Seconds 

Badnors: 

Fine 

Deep 

Herd  wick  ewes  and  welhers 


Per  cent 

lity. 

shrink- 

age. 

309 

20 

32&-36S 

20-18 

36S-40S 

20 

363 

20-18 

40S-44S  1 

20 

36s-40s 

20-18 

36S-40S 

35-30 

36S-40S 

22-20 

36s 

20-18 

36S-40S 

22-20 

36s 

30-18 

44S-46S 

20-18 

40S-44S 

18-17 

44S-46S 

18-16 

40S-44S 

18-16 

40S-44S 

18-16 

40s 

1*-16 

3()S 

25-20 

32s 

25 

44S-46S 

22-20 

40S-44S 

20-18 

44s 

20 

40s 

20 

44S-46S 

25 

40S-44S 

25 

44S-46S 

25 

40S-44S 

25 

36s 

20 

32S-36S 

20 

44S-46S 

25 

40S-44S 

25 

32s 

25 

28S-32S 

25 

50S-56S 

35-34 

50s 

35-34 

46S-50S 

25 

44S-46S 

25 

50s 

30-28 

46&-48S 

30-28 

46S-50S 

30-28 

46s 

30-28 

50s-^6s 

30-28 

50s 

30-28 

50s 

25 

46s 

25 

488 

30-28 

46s-48s 

30-28 

40&-44S 

20 

46S-50S 

24 

44s 

22 

4as 

20 

46s 

22 

36s 

20 

32s 

20 

Per  cent 
yield. 


80 

80-S3 

m 

80-82 
80 

80-82 

65-70 

78-80 

80-82 

78-80 

80-82 

80-S2 

82-83 

82-81 

82-84 

82-84 

82-84 

75-80 

75 

78-80 

80-82 

SO 

80 

75 

75 

75 

75 

80 

80 

75 

75 

75 

75 

65-66 

65-66 

75 

75 

7(K-72 

70-72 

70-72 

70-72 

70-72 

70-72 

75 

75 

70-72 

70-72 

80 

76 
78 
80 

78 

SO 
80 


I 


1  I 

r 


400 


EEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 

English  shin  wools. 


NOETHEKX  COUNTIES. 

FineTiof; 

Fiao  wether 

Strong  ho|? 

Strong  wether 

White  haslook 

Gray  haslock 

Super  lamb 

Fine  lamb 

Strong  lamb 

Strong  carding 

Fine  head 

Bread  head 

Brederay 

Belly  head 

Lamb  britch 

Sheep  britch 

MIDLAND  COUNTIES. 

Super  teg ".'. 

Super  wether 

Fine  teg 

Fine  wether 

Strong  hog 

Strong  wether 

Super  lamb 

Fine  lamb 


Per  cent 
shrink- 
age. 


21 
22 
22 
20 
20 
24 
22 
20 
18 
18 
24 
22 
22 
30 
20 
18 


25 
23 

22 
21 
20 
20 
22 
20 


Per  cent 
yield. 


76 
78 
78 
80 
80 
76 
78 
80 
82 
82 
76 
78 
78 
70 
80 
£2 


75 
77 
78 
79 
80 
80 
78 
80 


I 


MIDLAND  COUNTIES— Contd. 


Strong  lamb... 
Strong  carding. 
Lamb  britch... 

Fine  head 

Broad  head 

White  haslock. 

Bred  gray 

Belly 

Sheep  britch... 


DOWNS. 

Pick  down  teg  skin 

Pick  down  wether  skin. . . 

Super  down  teg  skin 

Super  down  wether  skin. . 

Fine  down  teg  skin 

Fine  down  wether  skin . . . 

Strong  down  teg  skin 

Strong  down  wether  skin . 
Strong  down  britch  skin. . 

Pick  down  lambskin 

Super  down  lambskin 

Fine  down  lambskin 

Strong  down  lambskin..., 


Per  cent 

shrink- 

age- 


18 
18 
20 
25 
22 
20 
22 
28 
18 


28 
26 
25 
24 
23 
22 
22 
20 
20 
25 
23 
22 
20 


Per  cent 
yield. 


VICTORIAN  (West  Victoria;  64sqaaUty).i 


Grease  combing: 

Superior  (American  wools) 

Good 

Average 

Ordinary 

Grease  clothing:      r 

Superior 

Good 

Average 

Ordinary 

Grease  broken:      , 

Good 

Average — 

Ordinary 


45-40 
4»-48 
51-50 
54-53 

46-45 
48-47 
60-49 
64-53 

48-47 
50-49 

53-52 


5J-56 
51-52 
49-50 
40-47 

54-55 

52-53 
.50-51 
46-47 

52-53 
50-51 
47-48 


Grease  necks: 

Good '....-.... 

f    Average 

Ordinary 

Grease  pieces: 

Good 

/   Average 

Stained,  burrj',  etc 
Grease  bellies:     . 

Good 

<    Average 

Wasty,  burry.etc. 
Grease  locks: 

Good 

)  Average 


47-46 
50-49 
53-52 

50-49 
53-52 
57-50 

57-56 
61-60 
J&-65 

71-70 
75-74 


VICTORIAN  (Eastern  Victoria;  04s  quality). 


Grease  combing: 
Superior — 

Good 

Average 

Ordinary . . . 

Grease  clothing: 
Superior — 

Good 

Average 

Ordinary... 

Grease  broken: 

Good 

Average 

Ordinary . . . 

Grease  necks: 

Good 

Average 

Ordinsiry . . . 


51-52 
49-50 

47-48 
44-45 

50-51 
48-49 
46-47 
43-44 

48-49 
46-47 
4a-44 

49-50 
46-47 
43-44 


Grease  pieces: 

Good 

'     Average 

Stained,  burry,  etc 
Grease  bellies: 

Good 

Average 

Wasty,  burry,  etc. 
Grease  locks: 

Good 

Average 


5^-52 

57-66 
60-59 

62-61 
67-66 

'■73-72 
76-76 


83 
82 
80 
75 
78 
80 
78 
72 
82 


72 
74 
75 
76 
77 
78 
78 
80 
80 
75 
77 
78 
80 


63-54 
60-61 
47-48 

50-51 
47-48 
43-44 

43-44 

39-40 
34-35 

29-30 
25-26 


47-48 
43-44 
40-41 

41-42 
38-39 
33-34 

27-28 
24-25 


1  These  are  the  wools  specially  f avor*>d  by  American  buyers,  being,  perhaps,  the  lightest  conditioned 
Of  any  of  like  quality  grown  in  the  world.  ^ 


REPORT   OF   TARIFF   BOARD   ON   SCHEDULE   K. 

» 

VICTORIAN  (grease  fine  crossbred;  56s  quality). 


Grease  combing: 

Superior  (American  wools) 

Good 

Average 

Grease  pieces: 

Good 

Average 

Stained 


Per  cent 
shrink- 
age. 


Per  cent 
yield. 


34-32 

30-34 
40-38 

36-34 
44-42 
46-44 


66-68 

64-66 
60-62 

64-66 
66-58 
54-56 


Grease  bellies 
Good.... 
Average. 
Wasty... 


Per  cent 
shrink- 
age. 


40-38 

46-44 
4S-40 


Per  cent 
yield. 


60-62 
54-5ft 
52-6i 


VICTORIAN  (grease  fine  crossbred;  50s  quality). 


Grease  combing: 

Superior  (American  wools) 

Good 

Average 

Grease  pieces: 

Good 

Average 

Stained 


3-2-30 

34-32 

34 

34 
38 

42 


68-70 

66-68 
66 

66 
62 
68 


Grease  bellies 
Good..:. 
Average. 
Wasty... 


36 
40 
44 


64 
60 


VICTORIAN  (grease  medium  crossbred;  46s-48s  quality). 


Grease  combing: 

Superior  (American  wools) 

Good 

Average 

Grease  pieces: 

Good 

Average 

Stained 


28-26 
30-28 
30-32 

32 
34 
40 


72-74 
70-72 
70-68 

68 
66 
60 


Grease  bellies 

Good 

Average. 
Wasty... 


VICTORIAN  (grease  coarse  crossbred;  40s  quality). 


Grease  combing: 

Superior  (American  wools) 

Good 

Average 

Grease  pieces: 

Good 

Average 

Stained 


24-22 
26-24 
30-28 

26 
30-28 
34-32 


76-78 
74-76 
70-72 

74 

70-72 
66-68 


Grease  bellies: 

Good 

Average.. 
Wasty.... 


28 

32-30 

36 


73 

68-7© 

64 


1  There  are  very  few  36s.  Victorian  wools  (Port  Phillip).    The  few  there  are  will  be  pure  Lincoln  wools 
and  give  the  same  weight  (clean  yield)  as  40s. 

QUEENSLAND  (Central;  648  to  70s  quality).* 


Grease  combing: 

Superior  (American  wools) 

Good 

Average - 

Ordinary,     seedy,     and 

burry 

Grease  clothing: 

Superior 

Good 

Average 

Ordinary,  seedy 

Grease  broken: 

Good 

Average 

Ordinary,  faulty 


Grease  necks: 

Good 

Average,  seedy 

Ordinary,  very  seedy. 
Grease  pieces: 

Good 

Average 

Stained,  seedy,  etc — 
Grease  bellies: 

Good 

Average 

Wasty,  seedy,  etc 

Grease  locks: 

Good 

Average 


53-52 
55-54 
6»-57 

54-53 
57-56 
59-58 

5^58 
62-61 
68-67 

72-70 
75-74 


47-48 
45-46 
42-43 

46-47 
43-44 
41-42 

41-42 
38-39 
32-33 

28-30 
26-26 


1  Some  of  the  largest  stations  in  Australia  are  situated  in  this  district,  many  carrying  120,000  to  150,000 
Bheep. 

32080°— H.  Doc.  342. 62-2,  vol  1 26 


|,>  si 

I 


A£\9, 


BEPOBT  OF  TAHIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K, 


QUEENSLAND  (Darling  Downs;  648  quality).* 


BEPOET  OF  TABTFF  BOAED   OlST   SCHEDULE  K. 
NEW  SOUTH  WALES  (Upper  Darilng  or  Far  Western  wools;  64s  quality).* 


403 


:l 


Grease  combing:* 

8uperi(H-  ( American  wools) 

Good 

Average 

Ordinary,      seedy,     and 

burry 

Grease  clothing: 

Superior 

Good 

Average 

Ordinary,  seedy 

Grease  broken: 

Good 

Average 

Ordinary,  faulty 


Percent 
shrink- 
age. 


50-4S 
53-52 

5&-57 

60-48 
5;j-52 
67-50 
60-59 

fi3nS2 

5fl-55 
59-S% 


Per  cent 
yield. 


fiO-52 
47-48 
45-46 

42-43 

50-52 
47-48 
43-44 

40-41 

47-48 
44-45 
41-42 


Good 

Average,  seedy 

Ordinary,  very  seedy 
Grease  pieces: 

Good 

Average 

Stained,  seedy,  etc... 
Grease  belll4s: 

Good 

Average 

Wasty,  seedy,  etc — 
Grease  locks: 

Good 

Average 


Per  cent 
shrink- 
age. 


54-53 

58-57 
61-60 

55-54 

58-57 
61-60 

62-61 

69-68 

74-73 
77-75 


Per  cent 
yield. 


QUEENSLAND  (Southwestern;  C48  quality).' 


i; 

r 


Grease  combing: 

Good  (American  wools) . . . 

Average 

Ordinary,      seedy,     and 

burry 

Grease  clothing: 

Good 

Average 

Ordinary,  seedy 

Orease  broken: 

Good 

Average 

Ordinary,  faulty 

Grease  necks: 

Good 

Average,  seedy 

Ordinary,  very  seedy 


56-^ 

50-58 

62-60 

57-66 
60-59 

ea-m 

58-57 
60-59 
63-62 

57-56 
00-^ 
65-64 


44-45 
41-42 

3»-40 

4AmM 

40-41 
37-38 

42-43 
40-41 
37-38 

43-44 
4IK41 
35-36 


Grease  pieces: 

Good 

Average 

Stained,  seedy,  etc 
Grease  bellies: 

Good 

Average 

Wasty,  seedy,  etc. 
Grease  locks: 

Good 

Average 


58-67 
61-60 
65-«4 

64-«3 
67-€6 
72-70 

77-75 
82-^ 


NEW  SOUTH  WALES  (Riverina  woob;  64s  quality). 


Orease  combing: 

Superior  (American  wool). 

Good 

Average 

Ordinary,    seedy,     and 

burry 

Grease  broken: 

Good 

Average 

Ordinary,  faulty 

Grease  necks: 

Good 

Average,  seedy 

Ordinary,  very  seedy 


60-48 

53-51 
66-56 

60-^ 

54-53 
68-56 
62-61 

63-^2 
67-56 


60-52 
47-49 

40-|l 

TKif"""'Tl  f 

38-39 

47-48 
43-44 
38-JI9 


Grease  pieces: 

Good 

Average 

Stained,  burry,  etc 
Grease  bellies: 

Good 

Average 

Wasty,  burry,  etc. 
Grease  locks: 

Good 

Average 


62-eo 

66-64 

60-50 

63-62 
e&-66 

74-73 
77-76 


46-47 
42-43 

39-40 

45-46 
42-43 

39-40 

38-39 

34-35 
31-32 

20-27 
23-25 


Grea<>e  combing: 

Good 

Average 

Ordinary,     seedy,     and 

burry 

Grease  clothing: 

Good 

Average 

Ordinary,  seedy 

Grease  broken: 

Good 

Average 

Ordinary,  faulty 

Grease  necks: 

Good 

Average,  seedy 

Ordinary,  very  seedy 


Per  cent 
shrink- 
age. 


57^6 
60-59 

62-61 

59-^ 
01-<30 
63-62 

59-58 
62-00 
65-04 

00-59 
62-«l 
05-64 


Per  cent 
yield. 


43-44 
40-41 

38-39 

41-42 
39-40 
37-38 

41-42 
38-40 
35-36 

40-41 
38-39 
35-36 


Grease  pieces: 

Good 

Average 

Stained,  burry,  etc 
Grease  bellies: 

Good 

Average 

Wasty,  biury,  etc. 
Grease  locks: 

Good 

Average 


Per  cent 
shrink- 
age 


61-60 
63-02 
67-06 

65-04 
67-€6 
70-69 

76-75 

7S-77 


Per  cent 
yield. 


NEW  SOUTH  WALES  (New  England;  64s  quality).* 


42-43 

39-40 
35-36 

36-37 
33-34 
28-30 

23-25 
18-20 


Grease  combing: 

Superior  (American  wools) 

Good 

Average 

Ordinary,  seedy,  and  burry 
Grease  broken: 

Good 

Average 

Ordinary,  faulty 

Grease  necks: 

Good 

Average,  seedy 

Ordinary,  very  seedy 

Grease  pieces: 

Good 

,    Average 

Stained,  burry,  etc 


47-46 
50-49 
53-52 
55-54 

52-51 
54-53 
58-57 

52-51 
55-54 

58-57 

53-52 
55-54 
58-57 


53-54 
60-51 

47-48 
45-46 

48-49 
46-47 
42-43 

48-49 
45-46 
42-43 

47-48 
45-46 
42-43 


Grease  bellies: 

Good 

Average 

Wasty,  burry,  etc 
Grease  locks: 

Good 

Average 

Orease  clothing: 

SuperiOT 

Good 

Average 

Ordinary,  seedy.. 


58-57 
62-61 
67-66 

70-^ 
74-73 

52-51 
55-54 
59-58 


SOUTH  AUSTRALIAN— (Southeastern  wool;  04s  quality).' 


41-42 
38-40 
34-36 

40-41 
37-38 
32-34 

26-27 
23-24 


Qrease  combing: 

Supeilor  (American  wools) 

Good 

Average 

Ordinary,     seedj',     and 

burry 

Grease  broken: 

Good 

Average 

Ordinary,  faulty 


47-46 
50-49 
53-52 

5.5-54 

50-49 
53-52 
55-54 


53-54 
60-51 
47-48 

45-46 

50-51 
47-48 
45-46 


Grease  pieces: 

Good 

Average 

Stained,  burry,  etc 
Grease  bellies: 

Good 

Average 

Wasty,  burry,  etc. 
Grease  locks: 

Good 

Average 


53-52 
55-54 
59-58 

58-57 

61-60 
65-64 

70-68 
74-73 


SOUTH  AUSTRALIAN  (Northern  district;  60s  quality). 


»  Very  good  district— the  garden  of  Queensland— and  now  largely  devoted  to  agriculture. 
»  These  wools  are  usually  somewhat  red  add  earthy  in  appearance,  are  never  boujjht  by  America,  but  are 
naed  extensively  for  top-making  purposes  by  continental  and  Yorkihlxe  buyers. 


Grease  combing: 

Superior 

Good 

Average 

Ordinary,     seedy,    and 

burry 

Grease  broken: 

Good 

Average 

Ordinary,  faulty 

Grease  necks: 

Good 

Average 

Ordinary,  very  seedy 


52-50 
54-53 
67-56 

CO-59 

53-52 
57-55 
60-59 

53-52 
56-55 
60-59 


48-50 
46-47 
43-44 

40-41 

47-48 
43-45 
40-41 

47-48 
44-45 
40-41 


Grease  pieces: 

Good 

Average 

Stained,  burry,  etc 
Grease  bellies: 

Good 

Average 

Wasty,  burry,  etc- 
Grease  locks: 

Good 

Average 


54-53 

58-56 
62-60 

62-60 
04-03 
67-06 

72 

74 


59-40 
37-38 
33-34 

35-36 
33-34 
30-31 

24-25 
22—23 


42-43 

38-39 
33-34 

30-32 

26-27 

51-52 
48-49 
45-46 
41-42 


47-48 
45-46 
41-42 

42-43 

39-40 
35-36 

30-32 
26-27 


46-47 
42-44 
38-40 

38-40 
36-37 
33-34 

as 


[    *  These  are  heavy  in  condition,  red  and  very  earthy,  but  fine  in  quality;  oftentimes  70s  or  XXX. 

'  Well-grown,  sound,  and  soft-handling  wools.    Among  the  best,  if  not  the  best,  grown  in  New  South 
Wales. 
*■  *  These  wools  are  similar  in  character  to  West  Victoria,  except  that  they  are  a  little  more  yolky. 


■aiii 


404 


KEPOKT  OF  TAKIFF  BOARD   ON   SCHEDUL^l  K. 

SOUTH  AUSTRALIAN  (Middle  Nortli;  COs  quality). 


Per  wnt 
shrink- 
age. 


* 


Grease  combing: 

Superior  (American  wools) 

Goo<l 

Averapp 

Ordinary,  seedy,  and 

burry 

Grease  broken: 

Good 

Average 

Ordinary,  faulty 

Grease  necks: 

Good 

Average,  seedy 

Ordinary,  very  seedy 


47-46 
51-50 
54-53 

57-55 

50-48 
53-51 
57-56 

52-50 
55-54 
59-57 


Per  cent 

yield. 


53-54 
49-50 
4(>-47 

4a^ 

50-52 
47-49 

48-50 
45-46 
41-43 


Grease  pieces: 

Good 

Average 

Stained,  burry,  etc 
Grease  bellies: 

Good 

Average 

Wasty,bmTy,etc. 
Grease  locks: 

Good 

Average 


Per  cent 
shrink- 
age. 


53-52 
60-55 
62-60 

60-^ 
64-62 
69-67 

75-74 
80-78 


WEST  AUSTRALIAN  (Northern  district;  60s-64s  quality),  i 


Grease  combing: 

Good :. 

Average 

Grease  broken: 

Good 

Average 

Ordinary,  faulty 

Grease  necks: 

(iood 

Average,  seedy 

Ordinary,  very  seedy 


57-56 
60-69 

59-58 
61-60 
64-63 

60-59 
62-«l 
65-«4 


43-44 
40-41 

41-42 
39-40 
36-37 

40-41 
38-39 
35-36 


Grease  pieces: 

Good , 

Average 

Stained,  seedy,  etc 
Grease  bellies: 

Good 

Average 

Wasty,  seedy,  etc.. 
Grease  locks: 

Good 

Average 


60-^ 
63-62 
67-66 

65-64 
67-66 

70-m 

76-75 

78-77 


WEST  AUSTRALIAN  (Southwestern  district;  60s-64s  quality).' 


Grease  combing: 

Super 

Good 

Average 

Grease  broken: 

Good 

Average 

Ordinary,  faulty 

Grease  necks: 

Good 

Average,  seedy 

Ordinary,  very  seedy 


52-51 
54-53 

53-52 
66-55 
59-58 

54-53 
57-56 
60^9 


Grease  pieces: 

Good 

Average 

stained,  seedy,  etc 
Grease  bellies: 

Good 

Average 

Wasty,  seedy,  etc. 
Grease  locks: 

Good 

Average 


WEST  AUSTRALIAN  (Central  District  grown  wools;  60s  quality). 


Grease  combing: 

Super 

Good 

Average 

Grease  broken: 

Good 

Average 

Ordinary,  faulty 

Grease  necks; 

Good 

Average,  seedy 

Ordinary,  very  seedy 


54-52 
66-55 
59-58 

55-54 
68-57 
64-62 

58-57 
60-39 
64-63 


Grease  pieces: 

Good 

Average 

Stained,  seedy,  etc 
Grease  bellies: 

Good 

Average 

Wasty,  seedy,  etc.. 
Grease  locks: 

Good 

Average 


Per  cent 
yield. 


EEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD   ON   SCHEDULE   K. 
NEW  ZEALAND  (Canterbury  or  Marlborough  district;  64s  quality).i 


405 


47-48 
44-45 
38-40 

40-42 
36-38 
31-33 

25-26 
20-22 


.1 


f 


40^1 
37-38 
33-34 

35-36 
33-34 

ao-31 

24-25 

22-23 


Grease  combing: 

Super 

Good 

Average 

Grease  broken: 

Good 

Average 

Ordinary,  faulty 
Grease  necks: 

Good 

Average 

Ordinary 


Per  cent 
shrink- 
age. 


51-50 
54-53 
55-54 

53-52 
57-56 

59-58 

54-53 
57-56 
00-59 


Per  cent 
yield. 


49-50 
46-47 
45-46 

47-48 
43-44 
41-42 

46-47 
43-44 
40-41 


Grease  pieces: 

Good 

Average 

Stained,  seedy,  etc 
Grease  beUies: 

Good 

Average 

Wasty,  seedy,  etc., 
Grease  locks: 

Good 

Average •. . 


Per  cent 
shrink- 
age. 


57-56 

60-59 
03-62 

60-59 
6^-62 
67-66 

73-72 
76-75 


Per  cent 
yield. 


43-44 
40-41 

37-38 

40-41 
37-38 
33-34 

27-28 
24-25 


NEW  ZEALAND  (Otago  and  Invergargill  district;  G4s  quality).* 


42-43 

38-40 
36-37 

40-41 
37-38 
32-34 

2fr-27 

23-24 


I 


Grease  combing: 

Super 

Good 

Average 

Grease  broken: 

Good 

Average 

Ordinary,  faulty 
Grease  necks: 

Good 

Average 

Ordinary 


53-51 
55-54 
57-56 

54-53 
58-57 
60-59 

56-55 

58-57 
01-60 


47-49 
45-46 
43-44 

4&-47 
42-43 
40-41 

44-45 
42-43 
39-40 


Grease  pieces: 

Good 

Average 

Stained,  seedy,  etc 
Grease  bellies: 

Good 

Average 

Wasty,  seedy,  etc., 
Grease  locks: 

Good 

Average 


58-57 
60-59 
64-63 

61-00 

65-64 
68-67 

74-73 
77-76 


42-43 
40-41 
36-37 

3^-40 
35-36 
32-33 

26-27 
23-24 


NEW  ZEALAND  (grease  fine  crossbred;  5(5s  quality). 


Grease  combing: 

Superior  (American  wools) 

Good 

Average 

Grease  pieces: 

Good 

Average 

Stained 


30-34 
40-38 
44-42 

40-38 
46-44 
50-48 


64-66 
(KM)2 
50-58 

60-62 
54-50 
50-52 


Grease  bellies 

Good 

Average.. 
Wasty.... 


42-40 
48-46 
44-42 


58-60 
52-54 
56-58 


NEW  ZEALAND  (grease  fine  crossbred;  50s  quality). 


41-42 
36-37 
30-32 

39-40 
34-36 
28-30 

23-25 
18-20 


Grease  combing: 

Superior  (American  wools) 

Good 

Average 

Grease  pieces: 

Good 

Average 

Stained 


32-30 
36-34 
40-38 

38-36 
42-40 
46-44 


68-70 
64-66 
60-02 

62-64 
58-00 
54-56 


Grease  bellies 

Good 

Average., 
Wasty... 


40-38 

44-42 
40-44 


60-62 
50-58 
64-56 


NEW  ZEALAND  (grease  medium  crossbred;  4Cs-4Ss  quality). 


>  These  wools  are  red  and  earthy. 

•  These  wools  are  grown  on  good  grass  country  and  resemble  very  much  south  Australian  wools  grown 
la  the  lower  north  district.    They  are  great  favorites  with  Bradford  top  makers. 


Grease  combing: 

Superior  (American  wools) 

Good 

Average 

Grease  pieces: 

Good 

Stamed 


26-24 
30-28 
32-30 

32-30 
38-36 


74-76 
70-72 
68-70 

68-70 
62-64 


Grease  bellies 
Good .... 
Average. 
Wasty... 


34-32 
36-34 
40-38 


66-68 
64-66 
60-62 


„^5  «T  ^^  ^I^  handling  wools,  contain  no  burr,  oftentimes  a  little  heavy  in  yolk,  but  always  come  a 
good  color,  work  well,  and  are  highly  valued.  ,  uut  aiwayi,  come  a 

-^J     I    ^^  \^^^  ^^.^  wools,  well  grown,  but  usually  rather  "sappy"  or  heavy  in  yolk.    Thev  come  a 
good  color,  make  good  cloth,  and  are  very  soft  handling  wools.  wi  uc»vjr  m  youu    ineycomea 


•I 

1 

J 

i 


i, 


406 


KEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE   K. 
NBW  ZEALAND  (greaa©  coarse  crossbred ;  40s  qtmllty). 


Grease  combing: 

Superior  (American  wools), 

Good 

Average 

Grease  pieces: 

Good 

Average 

Stained 


Percent 
shrink- 
age. 


20-18 
28-20 
24-23 

24-22 

30—28 


Per  cent 
yield. 


(Skj—xyjm 

78-80 
76-78 

76-78 
70-72 
64-66 


Greaae  bellieti: 

Good 

Average 

Wasty 

Grease  crutcbings: 

Good 

Average 

Grease  locks,  good  average 


Percent 
shrink- 
age 


26 
34-32 
38-36 

27-25 
32-30 

44—49 


Per  cent 
yield. 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  OJST   SCHEDULE   K. 


BUENOS  AIBES  (grease  fine  <ffossbred;  50s  quality). 


407 


74 
<>fi~68 
62-64 

73-75 
68-70 
56-58 


\ 


J' 


NEW  ZEALAND  (grease  ooarae  crossbred;  36s  quality). 


Grease  combing: 

Superior  (American wools) 

Good 

Average ,. 

Grease  pieces: 

Good 

Average 

Stained 


20-18 

22-20 

mnCmm 

24-22 
30-28 
36-34 


78-80 
79-78 

76-78 
70-72 
64-66 


Grease  bellies: 

Good 

Average 

Wasty 

Grease  locks,  good  average 


28-26 
34-32 
40-38 
44-42 


72-74 
66-68 
60-62 
56-58 


MONTEVIDEO  (grease  merinos;  Q0s-64squaUty). 


Grouse  combing: 

Superior 

Good 

Ordinary 

Grease  bellies,  good  average 


Grease  combing: 

Good 

Average 

Heavy ,  wasty 

Grease  pieces: 

Good 

Average 

Earthy,  stained 


Per  cent 
shrink- 
age. 


40-38 
42-40 

42-41 

47-46 
55-50 


Per  cent 
yield. 


60-62 

58-60 
51-52 

58-59 
53-54 
45-46 


Per  cent 
shrink- 
age. 


Grease  bellies: 

Good I  SO-W 

Average 57-66 

Heavy,  wasty ;  62-60 

Grease  locks,  average !  G2-60 


Per  cent 
yield. 


5(V-51 
43-44 
38-40 
38-40 


BUENO^  AIRE8  (grease  medium  oxissbred;  44s-46s  quality). 


,1 


Grease  cx>mbing: 

Good 

Average 

Heavy,  wasty. - 
Grease  pieces: 

Good 

Average 

Earthy,  stained 


35-34 
40-39 
4J&-45 

40-39 
44-43 
50-49 


65-66 
60-61 
54-55 

60-61 
56-57 
50-51 


Grease  bellies: 

Good 

Average 

Heavy,  wasty . . . 
Grease  locks,  average 


46-45 
49-48 
65-54 
59-48 


54-55 
61-52 
45-46 
41-42 


BUENOS  AIBES  (grease  ooMse  CTossbred;  40s  quality). 


52 
50 
47 

32 


k  ^ 


JlCKTE VIDEO  (grease  fine  croesbreds;  56e-58»). 


Oreose  crossbred 
Superior 

Average 

Ordinary.... 


Grease  combing: 

Good 

Average 

Heavy,  wasty.. 
Grease  pieces: 

Good 

Average 

Earthy,  stained 


28-27 
33-^ 
39-38 

36-35 
40-39 
46-45 


72-73 

67-68 
61-62 

64-65 
60-61 
54-55 


Grease  bellies: 

Good 

Average 

Heavy,  wasty... 
Grease  locks,  average 


42-40 
46-44 
50-49 
55-54 


58-60 
54-56 
50-^1 
45-46 


an 


BUENOS  AIKES  (grease  coarse  crossbred;  36s  quality). 


MONTEVIDEO  (grewe  ane  crossbred;  509). 


Greaae  crossbred: 

Superior 

Average 

Ordinary 


66-67 
60-61 
54-55 


Grease  combing: 

Good 

Average 

Heavy,  wasty . . 
Grease  pieces: 

Good 

Average 

Earthy,  stained 


28-26 
32-31 
38-37 

35-34 
39-38 
45-44 


72-74 
68-69 
62-63 

65-66 
61-«2 
55-56 


Grease  bellies: 

Good 

Average 

Heavy,  wasty... 
Grease  locks,  average 


41-<i0 
45-44 
49-48 
55-54 


55-56 
51-52 
45-46 


BUENOS  AIRES  (grease  fine  crossbred;  56s  quaUty). 


Grease  combing: 

Good 

Average 

Heavy,  wasty.. 
Grease  pieces: 

Good 

Average 

Earthy,  stained 


Shrink- 

age,  per 

cent. 


42^0 

4t>-44 
52-50 

40-45 

^If    ''to 

59-58 


Yield, 
per  cent. 


58-60 
54-56 
48-50 

54-55 
51-52 
41-42 


Grease  bellies: 

Good 

Average 

Heavy,  wasty 


Shrink- 
age, per 
cent. 


52-50 

66-56 
60-5» 


Yield, 
per  cent. 


48-50 
44-45 
40-41 


PUNTA  ARENAS  (grease  fine  crossbred;  56s  quality). 


Oro«se  combing: 

Good 

Average 

Heavy,  wasty . . 
Grease  pieces: 

Good 

Average 

Earthly,  stained 


3*-36 
44-42 
50-48 

42-40 
48-46 
62-50 


62-64 
56-58 
50-62 

68-^ 
52-54 
48-50 


Grease  bellies: 

Good 

Average 

Heavy,  wasty 


44^42 

48 
54-52 


56-58 

52 

4G-48 


PUNTA  ARENAS  (grease  fine  crossbred;  50s  quality). 


Grease  combing: 

Good 

Average 

Heavy,  wmsty . . 
Grease  pieces: 

Good 

Average 

Earthy,  stained 


34-32 

40 

46-44 

38-36 
46-44 

50-48 


66-68 

60 

64-56 

62-64 
54-56 
50-52 


Grease  l)ellies: 

Good 

Average 

Heavy,  wasty . . . 
Grease  locks,  average 


40-38 

48-46 

50 

54-52 


C0-G2 

52-54 

50 

4(>-48 


■III 

II  ill 


408 


BEPORT  OF   TARIFF  BOARD   ON   SCHEDULE   K. 

PUNTA  ARENAS  (grease  medium  crossbred;  46s  quality). 


Grease  combing: 
Good 

Average 

Heavy,  wasty.. 
Grease  pieces: 

Good 

Average 

Earthy,  stained. 


I'er  cent 
shrink- 
age. 


32 

4(>-44 

36 

42 

48-46 


Per  cent 
yield. 


68 

60 

54-56 

64 

58 

52-54 


Grease  bellies: 

Good 

Average , 

Heavy,  wastv 

Grease  locks,  average. 


Per  cent 
shrink- 
age. 


40^38 
44 

50 


Percent 
yield. 


Ga-€.2 
56 

50-52 
50 


PUNTA  ARENAS  (grease  coarse  crossbred;  40s  quality). 


Grease  combing: 

Good 

Average 

Heavy,  wasty . . 
Grease  pieces: 

Good 

Average 

Earthy,  stained. 


25 

28 

40-36 

m 

32 


75 

72 

60-64 

70 

m 

54-56 


Grease  bellies: 

Good 

Average 

Heavy,  wasty 

Grease  locks,  average. 


34-32 

36-34 

50-48 

50 


6<M» 

64-66 

50-52 

50 


SOUTH  AFRICA  (Western  District  of  Cape  Colony;  quality,  good  64s  all  through). 


Greasy  Western  Province: 

Super 


Good. 
Average. 


SOUTH  AFRICA  (Karoo  wools.  Cape  Colony). 


Greasy  combing: 
Super 


Good. 
Average. 


SOUTH  AFRICA  (Kaffrarian  Wools). 


Greasy  combing: 

Super  long 

Good 

Average 

Short  super 

Short  good 

Short  average... 


SOUTH  AFRICA  (Cathcart  Wools). 


Greasy  combing: 

Super  long 

Good  long 

Average  long.. 
Super  short... 

Good  short 

Average  short. 


Shrink- 
age, 
per  cent. 


55-52 
56-56 
60-58 


Yield, 
per  cent. 


4^M8 
42-44 
40-42 


60-58 
62-60 
66-62 


40-42 
3^40 
34-38 


55-52 
60-58 
62-60 
56-54 
60-58 
62-58 


45-48 

38-40 
44-46 

40-42 
38-42 


62-58 
64-62 
65-64 
60-58 
63-61 
64-63 


38-42 
36-38 
35-36 
40-42 
37-39 
36-37 


« 

•i 


w 


I 


HEPORT   OF   TARIFF  BOABD   ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


SOUTH  AFRICA  (Barkly  Dordrecht  Wool). 


409 


Greasy  combing: 

Super  long 

Good  long 

Average  long. . 

Good  short 

Average  short. 


Shrink- 
age, 
per  cent. 


04-03 
06-C5 
68-66 
66-64 
69-68 


Yield, 
per  cent. 


Some  clips  are  even  heavier. 


Greasy  combing: 

Super 

Average 


Greasy  combing: 

Super 

Average 


Greasy  combing. 


Greasy  combing. 


Greasy  combing: 

Super  long 

Good  long 

Average 

Super  short... 

Good  short 

Average  short. 


Greasy  combing: 

Super  long 

Good  long 

Average  long  . 
Super  short... 

Good  short 

Average  short. 


SOUTH  AFRICA  (Transkei  Wdols). 


57-54 
CO-58 


SOUTH  AFRICA  (Basuta  Wools). 


SOUTH  AFRICA  (Bushmanskop  and  Wepener  Wools). 


74-e8 


SOUTH  AFRICA  (Aliwal  and  Rauxville  Wools). 


SOUTH  AFRICA  (Orange  Free  State  Wools). 


SOUTH  AFRICA  (Natal  Wools). 


36-37 
34-35 
32-34 
34-36 
31-32 


43-46 
40-42 


38-40 
34-36 


2&-32 


72-66 

28-34 

60-55 

4045 

63-60 

37-40 

67-63 

33-37 

61-60 

39-40 

62-61 

38-39 

67-64 

33-36 

45-48 
40-43 
37-39 
45-47 
41-43 
38-40 


Transvaal  wools  are  somewhat  similar  to  Orange  Free  State  wools,  except  they  are  a  trifle  heavier  in 
condition. 


410 


BEPOKT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  OX  SCHEDULE  K, 


Mazamet  pulled  slin  wools. 


• 


Good  fourths,  long  Buenos  Aires 

Average  fourths,  long  Buenos  Aires 

Earthy  fourths,  long  Buenos  Aii-es 

CkMXi  fourths,  i-lo^g  Buenos  Aires 

Average  fourths,  ^-long  Buenos  Aires ... 

Good  thirds,  long  Buenos  Aires 

Average  thirds,  long  Buenos  Aires 

Earthy  thirds,  long  Buenos  Aires 

Good  thirds,  Hong  Buenos  Aires 

Average  thirds,  i-long  Buenos  Aires 

Good  seconds,  long  Buenos  Aires 

Average  seconds,  long  Buenos  Aires 

Earthy  seconds,  long  Buenos  Aires 

Good  seconds,  4-long  Buenos  Aires 

Average  seconds,  |-long  Buenos  Aires... 

Good  first,  longs  Buenos  Aires 

Average  first,  longs  Buenos  Aires 

Good  first,  i-longs  Buenos  Aires 

Average  first,  i-longs  Buenos  Aires 

Australian  firsts,  long  superior 

Australian  seconds,  long  superior 

Australian  thirds,  fourltis,  long  superior 


Quality. 

Shrink- 
age, per 
cent. 

Yield, 

per  cent. 

4fiS 

10-9 

90-91 

468 

15-14 

85-86 

466 

28-26 

72-74 

46s 

11-10 

89-90 

46s 

15-14 

85-86 

48S-50S 

14-13 

86-87 

48S-50S 

18-17 

82-83 

486-fiOs 

28-26 

72-74 

48S-50S 

15-14 

85-86 

48S-50S 

1^17 

82-83 

56s 

17-16 

83-84 

56s 

22-20 

78-80 

66s 

34-32 

66-68 

56s 

18-17 

82-83 

56s 

22-20 

78-80 

60s-64s 

28-26 

72-74 

60S-648 

30-29 

70-71 

60s~64s 

28-26 

72-74 

60s-64s 

30-29 

70-71 

64S-70S 

29-28 

71-72 

S6s 

22-20 

78-80 

46S-50S 

26-24 

74-7« 

Montevideo  crossbreds  (thirds  and  fourths)  yield  on  average  about  4  per  cent  inore. 
Montevideo  seconds,  long  good,  5  to  6  per  cent  more. 
Montevideo  firsts,  long  good,  7  to  8  per  cent  more. 


PART  11.  RAW  WOOLS-SECTION  3. 


31  i 


. 


WOOLS  OF  CLASS  III. 


411 




i 


V 


;^ 


ie 


y 


M 


^ 


m 


/ 


•\ 


MAP   OF   THE   WORLD   SHOWHSTGh   ORiaiyr   OF   CLASS   III   WOOLS- 


l: 

Scotch  Black-faced. 

13 

Gerpifcn  Skin. 

Bul^nan. 

Shousha. 

il 

Vola  (Greece). 

Damascua 

63. 

Pacputan. 

China:  Hsihtsui. 

2- 

Herdwick. 

U 

Zackel  Fleece 

23. 

Ronmnnian. 

32. 

Camels  Hair. 

42. 

Angora. 

Jaffa.                       \ 

Jesselmere. 

Hada. 

3 

Hn  slock. 

111. 

Za.kel  Skin. 

24, 

Dalmatian. 

33 

Bokhara. 

Cnnunanian. 

4ft. 

Soy.:,-'' 

54 

Madras. 

Chentze. 

4. 

Irish  Black-faced. 

16. 

'  Austrian  Skin  and  Heraego- 

2!V 

Constantinople  Kaaabachia. 

34. 

Turkestan. 

Samsonn. 

46. 

Awassi  or  Mossoul. 

65. 

Thibet. 

Hsiko. 

6. 

Oporto. 

viniin. 

m. 

Donskoi  (RostoffV 

Merv. 

Yosgat. 

Kerkonk. 

56. 

China:  Sining. 

Ngotze. 

8. 

r.rstel  Bi-'-iii'-n, 

17. 

Bosnian. 

m. 

SavolgH. 

Transcaspian. 

Smyrna. 

Karadi  or  Caracaccb. 

57. 

Szechuen. 

00. 

Egyptian. 

7. 

Spanish  Pvrenean. 

18. 

Italian  Coarsw  Wool. 

28. 

Donskoi  (Moscow). 

3ft. 

Calmuc. 

Yerli. 

47. 

Biissorah. 

58. 

Woosie. 

61. 

Sudan. 

8. 

Castilian. 

IB 

Sai-rlinMii. 

88. 

Crimean. 

38. 

Afghan. 

Bonldonr. 

48. 

Bnshire. 

»9. 

Kinchow. 

62. 

Valparaiso. 

9. 

Balearic. 

90. 

Iceland. 

SO. 

Bessarabian. 

37. 

Khorassan. 

Konieh. 

49. 

Joria. 

Koolun. 

6.J. 

Cordova. 

10. 

Frt-nch  Pyrenean. 

21 

Allmnifin  or  Salonica. 

31 

Georjrian  Toiicha  and  Nouka. 

38 

Kashgar. 

43. 

Cyprus. 

50. 

Vlcanere. 

Liangchow. 

P4. 

Mexican! 

11. 

Corsican. 

22. 

Servian. 

Tarakama. 

38. 

Monjjolian. 

44 

Aleppo. 

51 

Kandahar. 

Yungchang. 

65. 

United  States  Navajft, 

12. 

(lernian  Heide. 

Montenegrin. 

Mountain  Tartary. 

40. 

Manchurian. 

Orfa, 

52. 

Khelat. 

Paotze. 

Neiisa  Dm.  ■•.  342    ;  Ctl  CMg.,  2d 


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rwf  NOKfflS  PETERS  CO.,  WASHINGTON.   D.  C 


1 .  Scotch  Black-faced. 

2.  Herd  wick. 
8.  Haslock. 

4.  Irish  Black-faced. 

5  Oporto. 

6.  CJastel  Branco, 

7.  Spanish  Pyrenean. 

8.  Castilian. 

9.  Balearic. 

10.  French  Pyrenean. 

11.  Corsican. 

12.  German  Heide. 


IS.   German  Skin. 

14.  Zackel  Fleece. 

15.  Zackel  Skin. 

16.  Austrian  Skin  and  Herzego- 

vinian. 

17.  Bosnian. 

18.  Italian  Coarse  Wool. 
W-   Sardinian. 

20.  Iceland. 

21.  Albaninn  or  Salonica. 

22.  Servian. 
Montenegrin, 


Bul^rian. 

23.  Eoumanian. 

24.  Dalmatian. 

25.  Constantinople  Kasabachia. 

26.  Donskoi  (Rostoff). 

27.  Sa Volga. 

28.  Donskoi  (Moscow). 

29.  Crimean. 

30.  Bessarabian. 

31    Georgian  Toucha  and  Nonka. 
Tarakama. 
Mountain  Tartary, 


Shousha. 
32.  Camels  Hair. 
38.  Bokhara. 

34.  Turkestan. 
Merv. 
Transcaspian. 

35.  Calmuc 

36.  Afghan. 

37.  Khorassan. 

38.  Kashgar. 

39.  Mongolian. 

40.  Manchurian. 


41     Volo  (i 

42.  Angoi 
Caramj 
Snmscii 
Yosgat] 
SmymJ 
Yerli. 
Boiildci 
Konioli 

43.  Cypnij 

44.  Alepp 
Off  a. 


Gt   ORIGIlSr   OF   CL^SS    III   ^W^OOLS. 


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41. 

Volor  (Greece). 

Damascua 

5S. 

Pacputan. 

Ohina:  Hsihtsui. 

42. 

Angora, 

Jaffa. 

Jesselmere. 

Hada. 

Caramanian. 

45.    Bftgrciad. 

54,. 

Madras. 

Chentze. 

Samsoun. 

46.   Awassi  or  Mossoul. 

55. 

Thibet. 

Hsiko. 

Yosgat. 

Kerkouk. 

56. 

China:  Sining. 

Ngotze. 

Smyrna. 

Karadi  or  Caracasch. 

57. 

Szechuen. 

m. 

Egyptian. 

Yerli. 

47.  Biissorah. 

56. 

Woosie. 

61. 

Sudan. 

Boiildour. 

48.  Bnshire. 

5a. 

Kinchow. 

62. 

Valparaiso. 

Konieh. 

49.  Joria. 

Koolun. 

So. 

Cordova. 

43. 

Cyprus. 

50.  Vicanere. 

Liangchow. 

64. 

Mexicanl 

44. 

Aleppo. 
Orfa. 

51.  Kandahar. 

52.  Khelat. 

Yimgchang. 
Paotze. 

65. 

United  States  Navajo 

Nout«  Dae.  io.  342    ;  OSd  Gang.,  2df  Soss. 


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I 


CIASS  III  WOOIS. 

The  board  presents  herewith  a  carefully  prepared  special  report  as 
to  the  various  "native"  wools  of  foreign  origin  covered  by  Class  III 
of  the  existing  law.  A  study  of  production  costs  in  the  case  of  these 
wools  was  not  undertaken,  because  the  quantity  of  wool  of  this 
description  grown  in  the  United  States  is  now  neghgible.  For  a 
similar  reason  it  has  not  seemed  essential  to  give  any  special  attention 
to  their  relative  shrinkages.  They  differ  so  radically  in  character, 
come  from  such  a  wide  range  of  remote  regions,  and  are  imported  in 
such  varied  conditions  that  no  satisfactory  statement  can  be  made  as 
to  what  they  really  shrink  from  their  original  state.  Some  are 
imported  in  the  grease,  some  washed,  some  half  washed,  and  some 
scoured;  so  that  the  mill  records  as  to  clean  content  do  not  seem  to 
be  of  special  value  from  the  tariff  standpoint.  To  say  that  China 
"willowed"  is  reported  as  shrinking  from  20  to  45  per  cent;  China 
combing  unwashed,  30  to  45  per  cent;  Donskoi  unwashed,  40  to  50 
per  cent,  and  Donskoi  washed  from  15  to  20  per  cent;  East  India 
unwashed,  35  to  45  per  cent,  and  the  same  washed,  15  to  20  per  cent; 
Scotch  unwashed,  25  to  40  per  cent;  Cordova  unwashed,  45  to  55  per 
cent;  Pyrenees  unwashed,  50  to  55  per  cent,  etc.,  may  be  of  some 
interest,  but  these  and  other  figures  that  might  be  given  seem  after 
all  of  no  special  significance  in  this  connection. 

These  wools  are  chiefly  used  in  the  manufacture  of  carpets  and 
rugs;  but  an  inquiry  by  the  board  develops  the  fact  that  while  the 
great  bulk  of  the  consumption  is  devoted  to  such  use,  certain  grades 
are  in  demand  for  other  purposes,  such  as  the  manufacture  of  felt 
boots,  horse  blankets,  coarse  upholstery  goods,  robes,  paper-maker'a 
felt  aprons,  and  wadding  for  gun  cartridges.  The  better  grades  also 
find  tneir  way  into  various  blends  in  the  manufacture  of  coarse  cloths,' 
such  as  the  cheaper  grades  of  cloakings,  overcoatings,  coarse  tweeds 
and  cheviots,  and  occasionally  into  worsted  spinning  mills.  The 
finer  China  sorts.  East  Indias  (such  as  Jorias,  Vicaneers,  and  Kan-^ 
dahars) ,  are  probably  in  more  constant  use  in  woolen  mills  than  any 
other  Class  III  grades.  Khorassan  is  largely  used  by  the  felt  makers. 
At  times  when  domestic  quarter  bloods  are  deemed  dear,  some  of  the 
best  combing  wools,  such  as  Aleppo  or  Cordova,  are  used  to  some 
extent  by  the  worsted  trade. 

The  truth  seems  to  be  that  the  demand  for  the  so-called  carpet 
wools  for  better  than  carpet-making  purposes  depends  largely  upon 
the  price  of  clothing  wools.  When  these  are  high,  it  is  natural  for 
manufacturers  to  look  for  a  cheaper  substitute.  When  low,  manu- 
facturers pay  less  attention  to  such  wools,  unless  needed  to  produce 
some  particular  effect.  The  better  kinds  of  East  Indias,  however, 
are  said  to  be  imported  almost  exclusively  for  the  woolen  mills,  and 
are  commonly  too  high  priced  for  carpet  manufacturers.  Cordovas 
and  Chileans  when  combed  yield  a  noil  which  may  be  used  in  woolen 
manufacturing. 

413 


*T  .1..  'T' 


REPORT  OF   TABIFF  BOABD  ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


415 


A  small  amount  of  XaTajo  (New  Mexico)  and  other  Southwestern 
United  States  wool  is  made  into  cari^et  yams.  "Skirts''  and  britch 
wool  from  domestic  fleeces  and  low  braids  also  come  into  competition 
to  a  certain  degree  with  Class  III  material  when  home  values  are  low. 

The  point  is  made  bv  our  growers  that  for  obvious  reasons,  if  pro- 
tection is  to  be  accorded  their  business,  there  should  be  something 
more  than  a  mere  revenue  duty  levied  against  these  foreign  wools. 
While  it  is  true  that  they  displace  a  certain  small  percentage  of  domestic 
wool,  the  fact  remains  that  they  are  virtually  noncompetitive.  More- 
over, they  are  grown  upon  types  of  siieep  which  from  an  economic 
point  of  view  have  no  proper  place  in  American  agriculture. 

Complaint  is  made  against  the  present  method  of  levying  the  duty 
on  Class  III  wools  on  the  ground  tnat  there  is  a  persistent  endeavor  to 
undervalue  imports  of  wools  at  the  12-cent  valuation  point  where  the 
duty  now  changes  from  4  to  -7  cents  per  pound.  Such  a  practice  is 
inseparable  from  all  such  arbitrarv  divisions,  as  has  already  been 
pointed  out. 

To  remedy  this  an  ad  valorem  has  been  proposed.  Useful  and 
indeed  necessary  as  that  method  appears  to  be  in  certain  clearly 
defined  instances,  it  would  be  almost  impossible  of  satisfactory 
enforcement  by  the  Government  in  the  case  of  these  wools.  They 
are  bought  in  distant  lands  at  all  sorts  of  prices  and  under  such  varied 
conditions  of  sale  that  values  would  be  in  many  cases  most  difficult 
of  satisfactory  determination.  This  and  other  objections  to  an  ad 
valorem  rate  that  apply  in  the  case  of  the  standard  clothing  and 
combing  wools  have  therefore  even  greater  force  here.  On  the  other 
hand,  the  objection  hereinbefore  conceded  to  lie  against  the  flat 
specific  on  the  scoured  content,  in  the  case  of  the  wools  of  Classes  I 
and  n,  becomes  in  the  case  of  this  heterogeneous  mixture  of  grades, 
qualities,  and  values  a  much  more  serious  one. 

It  consequently  appears  that  this  problem  might  be  settled  by  a 
single  specific  rate,  regardless  of  either  value  or  condition,  as  meeting 
best  the  problems  of  administration  and  revenue,  and  at  least  reheving 
the  carpet  trade  of  much  of  the  uncertainty  inherent  in  the  present 
system. 

Better  Grades  in  Greatest  Demand. 

In  considering  wools  of  Class  III  with  special  reference  to  the  carpet 
industry,  it  should  be  borne  in  mind  that  there  has  been  a  continued 
evolution  in  this  industrv  in  America,  just  as  there  has  been  in  many 
other  important  industries,  i.  e.,  a  steady  progress  toward  the  manu- 
facture  of  the  highest  quality  of  goods.  Thmy  years  ago  the  prin- 
cipal part  of  this  business  was  the  manufacture  of  mgrain  carpets;  the 
production  of  Wiltons,  Brussels,  and  other  high-grade  goods  being  of 
minor  importance.  Then  the  manufacturers  were  riot  so  eager  for  the 
highest  grade  of  carpet  wools  as  they  are  now.  This  is  especially 
true  of  the  ingrain  miUs,  which  used  principally  the  cheaper  grades. 

The  improvement  in  the  production  of  carpets  has  not  altogether 
meant  the  abandoning  of  the  use  of  lower-priced  wool;  on  the  con- 
trary, there  is  manufactured  to-day  a  large  variety  of  very  sightly  and 
verv  good  styles  of  carpets  made  from  these  lower  quality  wools. 
But,  on  the  other  hand,  tVere  has  been  a  steadily  increased  production 
of  the  medium  and  better  qualities  of  goods  and  a  steady  decrease  in 
some  of  the  cheaper  fabrics,  especiafij^  ingrains. 


!) 


So  that  to-day  the  most  keenly  sought  for  wools  are  usually  those 
of  the  best  grades.  There  is  no  wool  of  Class  III  which  is  too  fine  in 
Quality  or  too  good  in  character  for  the  manufacture  of  the  choice 
Axminster,  Wilton,  and  other  high-grade  carpets  and  rugs,  and  the 
result  is  shown  in  the  fine  quahty  of  the  fabrics  that  are  produced. 

In  this  connection  attention  should  be  drawn  to  the  fact  that  in 
many  countries  the  production  of  Class  III  wool  is  declining.  In 
Germany,  France,  and  Austria  it  is  almost  extinct,  or  becoming 
gradually  so.  In  certain  parts  of  Russia,  such  as  the  Crimea  and 
Donskoi  regions  and  even  in  Georgia,  there  is  less  and  less  coming  out 
every  year.  Turkey  in  Europe  has  less  than  formerly.  Italy  and 
Greece  are  no  longer  to  be  considered.  In  South  America  not  one- 
half  of  the  quantity  of  20  years  ago  is  to  be  found.  Even  in  those 
countries  where  there  is  an  apparently  increased  supply,  this  is  more 
apparent  than  real  and  is  only  because  of  the  improved  facihties  for 
transportation  by  which  merchants  can  reach  places  of  production 
which  formerly  were  either  unknown  or  too  difficult  to  do  business 
with.  This  refers  particularly  to  Central  Asia,  Mongoha,  the  farthest 
parts  of  China,  Afghanistan,  and  other  Asiatic  centers.  In  these 
countries  the  maximum  supply  has  now  been  reached  and  no  further 
increase  can  be  looked  for. 

On  the  other  hand,  in  all  these  places,  with  the  ''march of  civiliza- 
tion,'' factories  aresoringing  up  and  are  taking  more  and  more  each 
year  of  the  local  wools,  leaving  less  for  foreign  use. 

Classification. 

It  has  been  customary  to  refer  to  wools  of  Class  III  as  "carpet 
wools.''  Attention  is  drawn  to  paragraph  363  of  Schedule  K  of 
the  present  tariff,  wliich  defines  Class  III; 

363.  Class  III,  that  is  to  say,  Donskoi,  native  South  American,  Cordova,  Valparaiso 
native  Smyrna,  Russian  camel's  hair,  and  all  such  wools  of  like  character  as  hava 
been  heretofore  usually  imported  into  the  United  States  from  Turkey,  Greece  Syria 
and  elsewhere,  excepting  improved  wools  hereinafter  provided  for.  * 

This  does  not  refer  to  wools  of  Class  III  as  carpet  wools.  In  the 
corresponding  paragraph  of  the  tariff  act  of  1897,  which  is  No.  351 
of  Schedule  K  of  that  act,  the  wording  is  identical  with  the  above. 

We  may  also  refer  to  the  corresponding  paragraph  of  the  tariff 
act  of  1890,  commonly  called  the  McKmley  tariff,  which  is  as 
follows: 

878.  Oasfl  III,  that  is  to  say,  Donskoi,  native  South  American,  Cordova,  Valparaiso, 
native  Smyrna,  Russian  camel's  hair,  and  including  all  such  wools  of  like  character 
as  have  been  heretofore  usually  imported  into  the  United  States  from  Turkey,  Greece, 
iiigypt,  byna,  and  elsewhere,  excepting  improved  wools  hereinafter  provided  for. 


Other  two  referred  to  above. 

In  the  tariff  act  of  March  3,  1883,  paragraph  355  read  as  follows: 

355.  Class  ITI—Carpet  wools  and  other  similar  wools.— Such,  as  Donskoi,  native 
South  American,  Cordova,  Valparaiso,  native  Smyrna,  and  including  all  such  wools 
of  like  character  as  have  been  heretofore  usually  imported  into  the  United  States 
from  Turkey,  Greece,  Egypt,  Syria,  and  elsewhere. 


416 


BEPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOAKD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


It  will  be  noted  that  in  this  act  the  heading  of  each  of  the  para- 
graphs  where  the  various  classifications  are  ^ven  defines  also  the 
character  of  the  wool  and  tlie  use  to  which  it  should  be  put.  In 
the  particular  paragraph  referring  to  Class  III  it  says:  ''Class  III— 
Carpet  wools  and  other  similar  wools.''  This  is  the  last  act  in 
which  the  general  description  of  the  wools  included  in  the  paragraph 
was  given  m  the  heading  thereof. 

There  was  reason  for  abandoning  this  description  when  the  Mc- 
Kinlev  tariff  was  made,  and  this  reason  was  that  the  headings  in 
the  paragraphs  of  the  previous  tariff  had  become  misleading  and 
out  of  date,  although  at  the  time  when  they  were  made  the  headings 
were  not  only  correct,  but  perhaps  even  essential. 

A  similar  heading  will  be  found  in  the  law  previous  to  that  of 
1883,  which  was  apparently  the  act  of  1874.  At  tlie  time  the  earlier 
law  was  passed,  wools  of  Class  I  were  essentially  ''clothing  wools"; 
that  is  to  say,  wools  intended  to  make  cloth  by  the  woolen  process. 
Wools  of  Class  II  were  essentially  "combing  wools,"  bemg  the 
most  suitable  for  the  manufacture  of  the  worsted  yarns  as  known 
in  those  days,  whilst  wools  of  Class  III  were  then  used  almost 
entirely  for  carpet  purposes. 

During  the  years  from  1874  until  1890  the  process  of  manufacture 
of  wools  changed,  and  particularly  during  this  period  the  process  of 
/'combing"  was  improved  by  the  introduction  of  what  is  known  as 
the  French  system.  By  this  system  a  worsted  yarn  could  be  made 
from  wools  wnich  up  to  that  time  had  been  considered  much  too  short 
in  staple  to  be  combed ;  so  that  many  of  the  wools  in  Class  I  became 
much  more  important  as  combing  wools  than  as  clothing  wools.  The 
wools  of  Class  III  also,  during  this  time,  were  found  useful  for  many 
other  purposes.  Many  new  industries  were  started — as,  for  example, 
the  manufacture  of  felt  boots  used  by  the  lumbermen  and  farmers  of 
the  Northwest  during  the  cold  and  snowy  winter  months.  These  could 
not  be  very  well  manufactured  out  of  any  other  than  wools  which 
were  classified  under  Class  III.  •       .«. 

The  necessary  conclusion  is  that  when  the  tariff  act  of  1890  was 
framed,  Congress  then  decided  in  classifying,  to  avoid  any  semblance 
of  use,  and  confine  itself  entirely  to  classification  according  to  race 

or  blood.  ,        ,     .  ^1 

For  convenience,  copies  of  the  three  paragraphs  refemng  to  Classes 
I,  II,  and  III  in  each  of  the  acts  herein  cited  are  attached,  and  in 
order  to  make  the  point  clear  it  should  be  borne  in  mind  that — 
Wools  of  Class  I,  regardless  of  use,  are  of  merino  blood,  immediate 

or  remote. 

Wools  of  Class  II  are  all  English  blood. 

Wools  of  Class  III  are  native  or  similar  wools;  that  is  to  say,  wools 
that  neither  show  the  characteristics  of  Class  I  nor  those  of  Class  II, 
and  which,  on  the  contrary,  resemble  such  native  wools  as  are  men- 
tioned in  the  paragraph  referring  to  Class  III.  ^  ,  ,  , 

The  use  to  which  the  wools  covered  by  any  of  these  classes  may  be 
put  does  not  in  any  way  govern  the  classification.  When  Congress 
abandoned  the  terms  "clothing  wool,"  "combmg  wool,"  "carpet 
wool, "  it  did  so  advisedly,  being  weU  aware  of  the  fact  that  some 
wools  from  each  class  could  be  and  were  being  used  for  purposes  other 
than  the  names  given  to  the  class  mdicated. 


BEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOAED   ON   SCHEDULE  K. 
Extracts  from  tariff  laws. 


417 


1 


Act  of  Mar.  3,  1883. 

Act  of  Oct.  1, 1890. 

Acts  of  July  24,  1897,  and 
Aug.  5,  1909. 

Class  L— Clothing  wools. 

Class  I. 

Class  I. 

That  is  to  say. 

That  is  to  say, 

That  is  to  say. 

merino, 

merino, 

merino. 

mestizo, 

mestizo, 

mestizo. 

Metz,  or 

Metz,  or                                ' 

Metz,  or 

metis  wools, 

metis  wools. 

metis  wools. 

or  other  wools 

or  other  wools 

or  other  wools 

of  merino  blood, 

of  merino  blood, 

of  merino  blood. 

immediate  or 

immediate  or 

immediate  or 

remote, 

remote. 

remote 

Down  clothing  wools, 

Down  clothing  wooISf 

Down  clothing  wools. 

and  wools  of 

and  wools  of 

and  wools  of 

like  character 

like  character 

like  character 

with  any  of 

with  any  of 

with  any  of 

the  preceding, 

the  preceding 

the  preceding 

iucludiug 

including 

including 

Bagdad  wool, 

China  lamb's  wool, 

Castel  Branco, 

Adrianople, 

or  butchers  wool  and 

such  as  have  been 

such  as  have  been 

such  as  have  been 

heretofore 

heretofore 

heretofore 

usually  imported 

usually  imx)orted 

usually  imported 

into  the  United  States 

into  the  United  States 

into  the  United  States 

from  Buenos  Aires, 

from  Buenos  Aires, 

from  Buenos  Aires, 

New  Zealand, 

New  Zealand, 

New  Zealand, 

Australia, 

Australia, 

Australia, 

Cape  of  Good  Uope, 

Cape  of  Good  Hope- 

Cape  of  Good  Hope, 

Bussia, 

Russia, 

Russia, 

Great  Britain 

Great  Britain, 

Great  Britain, 

Canada, 

Canada, 

Canada, 

Egypt, 

Morocco, 

and  elsewhere, 

and  elsewhere, 

and  elsewhere. 

and  also  Including 

and  also  including 

and 

all  wools 

all  wools 

all  wools 

not  hereinafter 

not  hereinafter 

not  hereinafter 

described  or  designated 
In  Classes  II  and  III. 

described  or  designated 

described  or  designated 

in  Classes  II  and  III. 

in  Classes  II  and  III. 

Class  II:  Combing  wools. 

Class  II: 

Class  II; 

That  is  to  say, 

That  is  to  say, 

That  is  to  say, 

Leicester, 

Leicester, 

Ijeicester, 

Cotswold, 

Cotswold, 

Cotswold, 

Lincolnshire, 

Lincolnshire^ 

Down  combing  wools. 

Lincolnshire, 

Down  combing  wools, 

Down  combing  wooli^ 

Canada  long  wools, 

Canada  long  wools, 

Canada  long  wools. 

or  other  like 

or  other  like 

or  other  like 

combing  wools 

combing  wools, 

combing  wools 

of  EngUsh  blood, 

of  English  blood, 

of  English  blood. 

and  usually  known 

and  usually  known 

and  usually  known 

by  the  terms 

by  the  terms 

by  the  terms 

therein  used 

herein  used 

herein  used, 

and  also 

and  also 

and  also 

all  hair  of 

hair  of  the  camel. 

hair  of  the  camel. 

the  alpaca 

goat, 

angora  goat, 

goat, 

alpaca, 
and  other 

alpaca, 
and  other 

or  other 

like  animals. 

like  animals. 

like  animals. 

Class  III:  Carpet  wools  and  other 
similar  wools. 

Class  III: 

Class  111: 

such  as 

That  is  to  say, 

That  is  to  say, 

Donskoi, 

Donskoi, 

Donskoi, 

Native 

Native 

Native 

South  American, 

South  American, 

South  American, 

Cordova, 

Cordova, 

Cordova, 

Valparaiso, 

Valparaiso, 

Valparaiso, 

native  Smyrna, 

native  Smyrna, 

native  Smyrna, 

Russian  camels  hair, 

Russian  camels  hair. 

and  including 

and  including 

and 

all  such  wools 

all  such  wools 

all  such  wools 

of  like  character 

of  like  character 

of  like  character 

as  have  been 

as  have  been 

as  have  been 

heretofore, 

heretofore, 

heretofore. 

usually  imiwrted 

usually  imported 

usually  imjwrted 

into  tlie 

into  the 

into  the 

United  States 

United  States 

United  States 

32080"* ~H.  Doc.  342,  62-2,  vol  1 27 


tt 


^Xo 


BBPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  OH  SCHEDULE  K. 

Fxiracis  from  ian'J'  faw#— Continued. 


Act  of  Mm,  S,  1S8J. 


Class  III:  Curvet  wools  and  oVter 
simiktr  wools— Cmktianed. 

from 
Turkey, 
Greece, 
Egypt, 

Syria, 

and  elwwlwe. 


Act  of  Oct.  1,  lf90. 


Class  III— Continued. 

from 

Turkey, 

Greece', 

Egfpt, 

Syria, 

and  elsewhere, 

excepting 

improveu  wools 

hereinafter 

provided  for. 


Acts  of  July  24, 1S97,  and 
Aug.  5,  1909. 


Clas.!  Ill— Continued. 

from 

Turkey, 

Greece, 

Syria, 

and  elsewhere, 

excepting 

improved  wools 

hereinafter 

provided  for. 


Description  of  Leading  Varieties  of  Class  III  Wools. 

It  is  presumed  that  a  description  of  the  different  kinds  of  wools 
which  constitute  the  range  imported  under  Class  III  will  be  of  interest 
when  considered  from  the  practical  standpoint  of  the  merchant  deal- 
ing in  or  the  manufacturer  who  uses  the  same. 

There  was  a  report  made  to  the  Hon,  George  S.  Boutwell,  Secretary 
of  the  Treasury,  about  the  year  1873,  or  shortly  prior  thereto,  which 
discussed  the  question  of  classification  by  race  or  blood  very  thor- 
oughly and  gave  a  very  complete  description  of  the  different  races  of 
sheep  which  were  to  he  found  in  different  parts  of  the  world.  'Hiis 
report  was  prepared  by  the  late  Mr.  George  William  Bond,  of  Boston, 
who  was  probably  one  of  the  ablest  wool  experts  that  this  country  has 
known.  This  report  contained  a  complete  description  of  all  of  the  1 0 
varieties  of  sheep,  the  wools  from  wliich  were  considered  as  belonging 
racially  to  Class  III. 

Unfortunately,  Mr.  Bond  does  not  in  tliis  report  directly  connect 
these  10  varieties  with  the  various  samples  that  he  prepared,  and 
therefore  it  is  difficult  to  exactly  identify  the  wools  which  are  pro- 
duced from  them.  It  is  sufficient,  however,  to  note  that  all  of  these 
10  varieties  are  sheep  of  the  third  class,  and  that  the  wools  from  them, 
where  there  is  no  crossing  with  sheep  of  a  different  blood,  must  be 
considered  as  belonging  to  this  class. 

One  can,  however,  clearly  see  from  a  study  of  Mr.  Bond's  descrip- 
tion the  reasons  why  Class  III  wool  from  the  different  countries  has 
such  a  wide  variation  in  quality,  length  of  staple,  and  other  charac- 
teristics, and  why,  although  these  variations  are  in  some  cases  very 
greatly  marked,  they  are  none  the  less  only  properly  classified  in  the 
third  class. 

Europe. 

Attention  is  drawn  to  the  fact  that  in  western  Europe,  excluding 
the  British  Islands,  comparatively  little  wool  of  Class  III  is  grown. 
Whatever  carpet  wools  are  found  in  tMs  part  of  Europe  are  principally 
from  mountain  or  hill  sheep  and  of  a  different  race  to  those  found  in 
Kussia,  Turkey,  and  all  Asia.  Sheep  of  the  mountain  variety  of  Class 
III  will  probably  continue  indefinitely  to  inhabit  the  hilly  regions  of 
Europe,  for  the  simple  reason  that  those  of  a  higher  breed  are  de  facto 
of  a  less  hardy  race  and  can  not  live  in  the  mountains. 


1 


REPORT  OP  TARIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


WOOL   FROM   THE   BRITISH   ISLES. 


419 


The  principal  wool  of  Class  III  growTi  in  the  British  Isles  is  the 
Scotch  Dlack-f aced  or  Highland  wool,  wliich  is  raised  in  large  quan- 
tities in  the  highlands  of  Scotland  and  the  hilly  districts  of  the  north 
of  England  and  Ireland.  It  is,  generally  speaking,  very  long  stapled, 
strong  wool,  varying  somewhat  m  quahty  but  not  generally  of  a  nigh 

trade  for  even  a  Class  HI  wool.  It  is  usually  of  long  combing  staple, 
ut  in  sorting  only  produces  50  to  60  per  cent  of  white  wool,  the 
remainder  being  of  a  light  gray  color  or  white  with  a  gray  hair  run- 
ning through  it.  In  pomt  of  grade,  not  more  than  one-half  is  suitable 
for  carpet  worsted  yarn  finer  than  sixteens,  the  remainder  being 
only  suitable  to  spin  up  to  fourteens.  The  noil  or  undergrowth  con- 
tains considerable  kemp  or  dead  hair. 

This  wool  is  not  mucn  used  for  an}^  other  purpose  than  the  manu- 
facture of  woi-sted  carpet  yarn.  The  coarser  quality  wliich  spins  to 
fourteens  is  only  suitable  for  an  ingrain  carpet  or  tapestry  carpet 
of  a  low  grade.  That  portion  of  the  fleece  which  will  spin  up  to  six- 
teens  is  suitable  for  Brussels  or  Axminster  or  Wilton  class  or  carpet. 
From  the  fact  that  ingrain  carpets  are  no  longer  in  great  demand,  this 
wool,  wliich  contains  so  much  of  what  will  produce  only  an  ingrain 
quality  of  carpet  yarn,  is  no  longer  as  much  sought  for  as  in  former 
years.  It  is  tempting  now  to  the  American  carpet  manufacturer  only 
when  it  can  be  obtained  at  a  comparatively  low  price.  For  the  last 
year  or  more  it  has  been  held  above  the  low-duty  limit  and  for  this 
very  reason  has  been  recently  somewhat  neglected. 

Herd  wick  wool  which  comes  from  southern  Scotland  and  the 
northwestern  counties  of  England  is  similar  to  the  black-faced  in 
many  respects,  being,  however,  less  desirable  on  account  of  poorer 
color,  general  cliaracter,  and  coarser  fibre.  It  has  found  very  Uttle 
use  in  this  country  the  last  year  or  two. 

There  are  somelots  of  black-faced  which  are  found  in  the  northern 
part  of  Ireland  and  also  in  the  northern  counties  of  England. 

Haslock  wool  is  the  wool  taken  from  the  skins  of  the  black-faced  and 
Herdwick  sheep.  It  usually  runs  shorter  in  staple,  and  to  a  large 
extent  is  suitable  onl}  for  filling  wool  purposes.  The  longer  varieties, 
however,  which  come  from  the  sheep  killed  in  the  winter  months,  can 
be  used  for  combing  or  worsted  purposes.  Neither  the  filling  nor  the 
combing  Haslock  are  used  for  anything  but  carpets. 

Portugal. 

The  only  wool  of  any  importance  produced  in  Portugal  which 
comes  now  under  Class  III  is  Oporto  wool.  This  is  a  sound,  strong, 
lustrous  wool,  some  of  it  of  good  staple,  free  from  kemp  and  coarse 
hair.  It  is  uniform  in  grade,  not  fine,  somewhat  creamy  in  color, 
none  of  it  being  actually  white.  The  combing  variety  is  the  only 
sort  in  demand  for  America.  It  is  used  for  Axminsters  or  similar 
carpets.     This  wool  is  usually  shipped  washed. 

There  comes  from  Portugal,  however,  Castel  Branco  wool.  This 
is  one  of  the  few  wools  which  by  race  or  blood  are  strictly  of  Class  III 
but  which  were  arbitrarily  put  in  Class  I.  It  is  a  "carpet  wooP'  of 
good  quality,  sound,  strong  fiber,  and  very  ''springy,'' suitable  for 
^igli-grade  carpets. 


420 


KEPOBT  OP  TARIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 

Spain. 


\ 


KEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K, 


421 


In  former  times  Spain,  celebrated  for  many  things,  was  also  noted 
for  its  fine  sheep.  As  it  started  colonies  iii  different  countries,  it 
sent  its  sheep  there  and  thus  established  woolgrowing  in  those 
places.  Cordova  wool,  found  in  South  America,  comes  from  the 
descendants  of  these  sheep  and  it  is  one  of  the  finest  wools  of  Class  III. 

Spain  no  longer  holds  its  position  in  this  regard.  As  a  woolgrowing 
country  it  is  of  minor  importance,  but  still  there  is  to  be  found  in  it  a 
certain  amount  of  carpet  wool,  of  which  a  considerable  quantity  is 
brought  to  this  country. 

Most  of  this  is  called  Pyrenean  wool  and  comes  from  the  Pyrcnean 
Mountains.  This  is  strong,  usually  long-stapled,  strictly  carpet 
wool,  averaging  a  little  better  than  the  French  variety  of  the  same 
kind,  but  more  irregular  in  g^rade,  running,  as  it  does,  from  a  rather 
fine  quality  wool  to  a  wool  with  a  long  coarse,  hairy  fiber. 

The  other  wools  of  this  class  raised  in  Spain  are  found  in  the 
mountainous  districts  of  Castile  and  are  essentially  the  same  as 
Pyrenean  wool. 

Except  for  the  coarsest,  roughest*  fleeces,  Pyrenean  is  a  desirable 
carpet  wool  and  is  used  in  ^TOtons,  Axminsters,  Brussels,  and  all 
hi^n-grade  carpets. 

In  other  parts  of  Spain  is  found  also  a  limited  quantity  of  Class 
III  wools,  but  they  are  not  of  sufficient  importance  to  require  any 
desciiption. 

Most  of  the  wool  shipped  from  Spain  comes  in  the  original  unwashed 
condition.  Occasionally  some  is  washed  in  the  local  streams  in  a 
rather  crude  manner  aiid  shipped  in  that  condition. 

There  is,  however,  some  wool  of  Class  III  very  similar  to  Pyrenean, 
but  more  uniform  in  grade,  found  in  the  Balearic  Islands.  Occa- 
sionally a  lot  of  this  kind  will  bo  bought  for  the  United  States.  Its 
general  characteristics  and  uses  are  the  same  as  the  Pyrenean.  Most 
of  these  wools  are  purchased  in  France  or  through  French  houses, 

France. 

Two  varieties  of  wool  of  Class  III  are  to  be  found  in  France.  One 
is  the  Pyrenean  wool,  which,  as  its  name  indicates,  comes  from  the 
northern  slopes  of  the  Pyrenees  Mountains,  and  the  other  is  Corsican 
wool,  which  comes  from  the  island  of  Corsica. 

Pyrenean  wool  is  also  found  on  the  Spanish  side  of  the  Pyrenees. 
The  French  kind  ia  coarser  and  usually  longer  in  staple,  but  more  uni- 
form than  the  Spanish.  It  is  a  very  useful  wool  for  the  manufacture 
of  carpets,  replacing  or  being  used  instead  of  some  of  the  wool  found 
in  Asiatic  Turkey.  The  coarser  varieties  are  also  substituted  for 
Scotch  wools.  It  is  all  required  for  carpet  worsted  yarns  in  Wiltons, 
Brussels,  and  Axministers.  Much  of  it  is  used  by  the  French  to  make 
mattresses. 

The  wool  is  taken  to  Marseille  and  there  sorted  and  washed  by 
machinprv 

"cotS  wool  i.  principally  colored  wool-i.  c.  gray,  brown,  and 
black,  of  long  combing  staple.  It  is  not  often  bought  for  America 
on  account  of  its  color. 


Skin  wools  are  also  produced  in  France  from  skins  of  Oass  III, 
bought  in  various  oriental  countries.  The  French  tanners,  however, 
also  use  skins  from  the  north  of  Africa  and,  although  these  are  of  low 
grade,  they  are  strictly  of  Class  I.  They  often  mix  these  with  the 
skin  wools  from  the  oriental  sheep,  which  results  in  the  classification 
of  the  entire  lot  as  Class  I. 

Germany. 

The  only  wool  of  Class  III  raised  in  Germany  to  any  extent  is  the 
Tieide  or  heath  wool.  In  some  respects  this  resembles  a  Scotch 
black- faced,  but  is  neither  so  long  in  staple  nor  is  it  so  strong  in  fiber. 
It  is  of  a  somewhat  higher  grade  or  quality,  but  has  considerably  more 
imdergrowth  or  noiL  There  are  two  clips;  the  spring  clip  being  the 
longer  staple  and  more  suitable  for  use  in  carpets.  Local  demand  or 
diminishing  supply  has,  however,  kept  this  wool  out  of  American 
reach  for  some  years,  and  at  the  present  moment  it  is  not  of  any  great 
importance. 

SJcin  wool, — Germany  also  produces  a  large  quantity  of  Class  HI 
wool  made  by  the  tanners.  Tlie  skins  are  purchased  by  the  Germans 
in  different  parts  of  Turkey,  the  Balkans,  Russia,  India,  and  China. 

Russian  and  Turkish  and  Balkan  sheepskins  are  chiefly  used. 
The  German  process  of  taking  the  wool  from  the  skins  is  unique,  and 
the  wool  resulting  therefrom  is  different  in  appearance  from  what  is 
produced  in  other  countries.  The  products  from  this  process  are 
usually  designated  as  "German  skin  wool." 

All  of  tlxis  wool,  on  account  of  its  short  staple,  is  only  suitable  for  a 
carpet "  v/ool-spun"  yarn,  and,  as  the  strengtn  of  the  fiber  is  impaired 
by  the  process  of  tanning,  it  is  used  only  for  the  medium  and  lower 
grade  carpets.  The  principal  shipping  points  are  Berlin,  Frankfort 
on  Main,  Breslau,  Magdeburg,  etc. 

Austria-Hungary. 

Wools  of  Class  III  produced  in  tliis  Empire  are  principally  the 
Zackel  fleeces  from  Hungary,  and  some  wools  of  a  similar  character 
which  come  from  the  border  provinces  of  Bosnia  and  Herzegovina. 
These  are  all  long-staple  coarse  wools  containing  much  kemp  and 
with  very  little  quality  or  grade.  They  are  deep  grown,  resembling 
in  this  respect,  the  long-stapled  Scotch  wool,  but  they  are  more 
imiform  in  quality  than  Scotch  wool  and  the  white  wools  contain 
less  gray  hairs. 

The  original  fleece  is  not  very  often  imported  into  America,  but 
at  times  very  much  of  it  comes  to  this  country  in  the  form  of  skin 
wool. 

There  are  two  distinct  varieties  of  Zackel  skin  wool;  one  long 
staple  and  the  other  shorter  and  not  suitable  for  combing  purposes. 
Neither  of  these  are  of  any  use  excepting  for  carpet  manufacture 
and,  even  then,  only  in  the  lowest  grades. 

SJcin  wool. — In  addition  to  these,  there  also  comes  from  Austria 
a  large  variety  of  skin  or  tanner's  wool.  This  principally  comes 
from  the  Austrian  tanners  who  use  many  skins  from  Servia,  Smyrna, 
Aleppo,  and  other  oriental  countries.  They  use  very  few  Russian 
skins,  consequently  their  wool  is  better  in  quality  than  the  German 
skin  wool. 


422 


EKPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDUOl  K. 


-« 


KEPORT  OF   TARIFF  BOARD   ON   SCHEDUIJ3   K. 


423 


The  Austrian  skin  wool,  however,  is  produced  by  a  ''lime"  process, 
which,  nevertheless,  seems  to  yield  a  sounder  or  stronger  wool  than 
tlie  German  method,  but  one  that  is  not  so  clean.  The  skin  wools 
come  from  Vienna,  Prague,  and  occasionally  from  Trieste.  Their 
use  is  for  a  carpet  ''wool  spun"  yarn  for  ingrains,  wool  tapestries, 
velvets,  or  Axmmsters. 

Italy. 

In  various  parts  of  this  country  is  raised  a  little  wool  of  Class  III. 
It  is  rarely  imported  in  the  origoial  fleece,  but  a  certain  amount  of 
the  "skin"  or  ** tanner's"  wool  comes  principally  from  Naples.  It 
is  a  straight-fibered  and  short-stapled  wool  used  m  cheap  wool  spun 
carpet  yams. 

Tjie  island  of  Sardinia  supplies  a  few  hundred  thousand  kilograms 
of  "carpet  wool."  It  is  chiefly  white,  of  fair  combing  staple,  but 
rather  straight  libered.  Although  it  can  be  used  in  tapestry  or  similar 
carpet  worsted  yams,  American  buyers  do  not  favor  it.  It  is  used 
mostly  locally  or  in  Italy  or  France  for  mattress  making. 

Greece. 

There  is  only  one  well-known  variety  of  Grecian  wool — ^i.  e., 
Volo — shipped  n-om  the  town  of  that  name.  This  comes  from  the 
mountains  on  the  Turco-Grecian  frontier.  It  is  a  combing  wool, 
straight  fibered,  ffood  color,  but  not  a  liigh-grade  wool,  onljr  suitable 
for  the  lower  kinds  of  carpet  worsted  yams.  It  is  not  often  imported 
into  America. 

Iceland. 

Mr,  Bond  states  that  this  wool  is  from  the  short-tailed  or  heath 
slieep,  which  he  says  are  found  in  Iceland,  Norway,  Russia,  Finland, 
Gothland,  Faroe  Islands,  etc.,  and  he  includes  all  heath  wool  from 
Scotland,  France,  and  Spain  in  the  same  class. 

He  says  that  all  these  have  "coarse  hairy  wool,  those  from  the 
most  northern  cUmates  with  much  fine  down."  This  fine  down  or 
undergrowth  is  one  characteristic  of  Iceland  wool.  When  combed 
the  noil  is  fine  and  silky  with  some  kemp  and  strong  hairs,  not 
resembling  the  noil  from  any  other  Class  III  wool. 

On  the  contraiy;,  the  long  fibera  or  top  are  straight  haired  and  not 
fine.  ThCT-  contain  some  kemp,  and  for  tliis  reason  there  is  consid- 
erable difficulty  in  usmg  them  for  other  purposes  than  carpets, 
especially  the  western  varieties,  which,  in  addition  to  being  the 
coarsest  in  grade,  are  also  very  "cotted," 

The  better  quality  of  tliis  wool  comes  from  the  eastern  side  of  the 
island.  It  is  used  for  the  best  grades  of  carpets,  such  as  Axminister 
and  Wiltons. 

Almost  all  Iceland  wool  is  waslied  in  Iceland  by  the  farmers. 
This  washing  h  usually  done  bv  running  tlie  sheep  through  the 
stream.    This  is  usually  termed  *  *  back  washing  "  or  "  brook  wasliing. 

In  former  years  this  wool  was  sold  largely  to  England;  now  most 
of  it  is  brought  to  America  by  merchants  who  buy  it  in  Iceland. 

Tltikey  m  Europe  anb  the  Balkan  States. 

Only  one  prominent  kind  of  Class  III  wool  is  gix)wn  in  European 
Turkey — i.  e,,  Albanian  or  Salonica  wool* 


This  is  shipped  from  the  port  of  Salonica.  It  is  a  nice  well-grown 
uniform  wool  of  good  staple,  color,  and  grade,  and  is  one  of  the  best 
carpet  wools  grown.  However,  the  last  five  or  six  years  has  seen 
very  Uttle  of  it  m  the  United  States.  The  Turkish  carpet  and  woolen 
factories  have  used  most  of  it  recently.  They  keep  it  out  of  the 
hands  of  American  buyers  by  purchasmg  it  at  just  over  the  low-duty 
Umit  of  12  cents  per  pound. 

It  is  always  offered  in  the  unwashed  condition  and  in  original 
fleeces. 

There  is  a  small  variety  of  this  wool  from  the  mountains  of  south- 
western Turkey  which  is  coarser,  longer  stapled,  and  Hghter  shrinkage. 

In  addition  to  these,  there  are  various  kinds  of  Class  III  wools 
raised  in  Servia,  Montenegro,  Bulgaria,  Dalmatia,  and  Roumania, 

These  are  mostly  used  m  the  local  factories  or  shipped  to  Trieste 
for  use  in  Austria  or  Italy.     They  are  all  coarse  long-staple  wools. 

From  Roumania  comes  some  Zackel  wool  of  the  same  class  as  but 
finer  in  quaUty  than  the  Hungarian  or  Bessarabi^n  Zackel.  This  is 
principally  grav  wool. 

The  skills  of  many  of  the  sheep  raised  in  this  section  are  sold  to 
Germany  and  Austria.  From  them  are  produced  the  German  skin 
wools  or  Austrian  skin  wools,  referred  to  under  other  headings. 

The  sheep  from  these  parts,  as  well  as  Turkey  in  Europe  and  Asia, 
are  also  sent  to  Constantinople  for  slaughter.  From  them  comes 
the  skin  wool  known  as  Kassapbatchia.^ 

Large  quantities  are  produced  by  the  tanners  in  Constantinople, 
The  wool  is  sorted  into  three  grades,  and  as  there  are  in  Turkey  in 
Europe  and  the  Balkan  States  many  sheep  of  merino  blood — imme- 
diate or  remote— so  the  No.  1  grades  of  the  Kassapbatchia  is  Class  I 
wool.     The  Nos.  2  and  3  are  Class  III  wools. 

Quite  a  little  of  this  wool  comes  to  the  United  States.  It  is  good 
carpet  wool;  some  of  it  of  combing  staple  and  all  suitable  for  Axmin- 
sters  or  velvets,  or  similar  grades. 

It  seems  proper  here  to  refer  to  one  of  the  wools  specifically  named 
in  Class  I,  Schedule  K  of  the  present  and  previous  tariffs.  This  is 
Adrianople  skin  wool  or  butchers'  wool.  Exactly  why  Congress,  in 
1897  for  the  first  time,  included  this  wool  by  name,  is  not  very  clear. 
Adrianople  fleece  wool  is  a  wool  of  merino  blood,  and  it  required  no 
specific  designation  to  place  it  in  Class  I;  and  the  ''skin  wool"  from 
Adrianople,  when  taken  from  the  skin  of  the  local  sheep,  would  of 
necessity  follow  the  classification  of  the  fleece. 

It  is  worth  while  to  note  that  Mr.  Dimond,  the  late  wool  examiner 
at  Boston,  who  prepared  the  present  very  complete  cabinet  of  stand- 
ard samples,  diet  not  mclude  in  his  collection  anv  sample  of  ''Adrian- 
ople  skin  wool. 

It  is  quite  probable  lie  was  in  doubt  as  to  what  Congress  meant  by 
this  term. 

Russia. 

part  I. 

The  principal  production  in  Russia  of  Class  III  wools  are  those 
commonly  kno^Ti  as  Donskoi  wools.     This  general  designation  is 

1  This  word  means  "  butchers'  wool." 


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EEPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K, 


■I u 


used  in  America  to  include  other  Russian  fleece  wools,  such  as  Sar 
Volga,  Kasan,  Tscherskoi,  and  Kuban  wools.  The  principal  place  of 
exportation  of  the  genuine  Donskoi  wool  is  Rostov  on  the  Don,' 
where  every  season  wools  are  washed  and  packed  and  prepared  for 
shipment  on  a  large  scale.  This  kind  is  collected  in  the  south  and 
southeastern  part  of  Russia  in  Europe— that  part  of  which  R(^tov 
is  the  center — from  Clierson  on  the  west  to  the  southeast  side  of  the 
River  Don,  and  including  the  northern  part  of  Caucasia. 

was 

to  ship    ^    v..^ v~      -n     X   *^  xi  •      1 

moderate  shrinkage— say  15  to  16  per  cent.  But  for  yeai-s  this  has 
been  impossible,  not  only  on  account  of  the  much  higher  prevailing  pnce 
of  wools,  but  also  because  the  Russians  use  these  wools  largely  and 
make  prices  for  them  which  America  has  to  follow.  To-day  values 
of  Donskois  are  at  least  50  per  cent  higher  than  formerly. 

Donskoi  wool,  although  it  is  strictly  a  wool  for  carpets,  is  a  good 
useful  wool  for  this  purpose,  being  of  long  combing  staple ;  it  is  straight 
haired  and  '^loose'^- i.  e.,  not  clinging  together  well  m  spinning  and 
with  not  much  "breed" ;  the  fibers  are  of  uniform  tliickness  and  stand 
up  well  in  an  Axminster  or  velvet  fabric.  It  is  usually  of  a  veryj 
white  color  and  is  not ''kempy.''  .      .      ,  i-    ^ 

This  wool  was  formerly  considered  a  necessity  in  the  manufacture 
of  carpets,  especially  for  ingrain  and  tapestry  yarns;  now  it  is  grad- 
ually losing  ground  on  account  of  high  prices;  also  on  account  of  the 
favor  shown  to  other  wools  of  a  finer  fiber. 

Savolga  fleece  wool  (from  beyond  the  Volga)  comes,  as  the  name 
indicates,  from  the  eastern  side  of  the  Volga  River.  Prmcipally 
collected  and  washed  in  the  district  round  Zantzyn  it  is  not  so  care- 
fully prepared  as  the  wools  from  Rostoff,  where  the  business  is  more 
centrahzed  and  confined  to  a  few  large  exporting  houses. 

The  Savolga  wools  are  similar  to  Donskoi  wools,  and  are  also 
strictly  carpet  wools.  They  are  of  good,  and  sometimes  even  of  long 
staple ;  more  lustrous  than  the  Rostoff  wools,  but  not  quite  so  white. 

Ill  all  the  Russian  fleece  wools  are  to  be  found  a  small  percentage 
of  colored  wool  which  is  sorted  out  and  not  often  exported,  being  m 
good  demand  in  Russia.  Most  Russian  she^p  are  shorn  twice  a  year— 
that  is,  in  the  spring  and  the  autumn.  Some  years  ago  the  autumn 
wool  used  to  come  to  the  United  States  in  large  Quantities,  but  it  has 
scarcely  been  seen  here  the  last  8  or  10  years.     It  is  all  used  now  in 

Russia  or  Germanv. 

Kasan  fleece  wool  which  originates  from  the  Kasan  government  or 
district,  although  resembling  the  Savolga  or  Donskoi  fleece,  has  some 
peculiarities  of  its  own.  It  is  very  lustrous  and  slippery  and  has  a 
fine  downy  undergrowth  which  makes  it  appear  to  be  of  the  short- 
tail  "heatli"  wool  variety  of  sheep  referred  to  by  Mr.  Bond  m  his 
report  as — 

The  Northern  which  is  found  in  Iceland,  Norway,  Sweden,  Russia,  Finland,  Goth- 
land, and  Faroe  Islands,  etc. 

It  is  not  so  desirable  a  carpet  wool  as  the  Rostoff  or  Savolga  wools 
on  account  of  its  slipperiness  and  only  moderate  staple.  The  washmg 
also  is  never  as  good  as  the  other  varieties  of  fleece  wools. 

Tscherskoi  and  Kuban  wools  are  similar  to,  and  often  included  m, 
the  Rostoff  wools. 


KEPORT  OF  TAEIFF  BOARD   ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


425 


In  the  center  of  Russia  are  some  scattered  lots  of  fleece  wools  of 
Class  III  similar  to  the  Savolgas  or  Rostoff  Donskois.  These  are 
sometimes  classed  as  ''Moscow  Donskoi  w^ools.''  Occasionally  these 
find  their  way  to  Rostoff  or  Odessa. 

Formerly  the  district  surrounding  Odessa  raised  wools  on  the 
Donskoi  order,  but  the  production  has  decreased  to  such  an  extent 
that  httle,  if  any,  of  these  come  on  the  market. 

The  Crimean  Peninsula  used  to  raise  large  quantities  of  wool  of 
wliich  the  spring  cUp  was  medium  stapled  combing  wool.  The  white 
wool  was  shipped  to  America  and  used  for  ingrain  and  tapestry 
carpets.  The  autumn  clip  was  also  a  good  wliite  wool,  very  desirable 
as  an  ingrain  filling  wool. 

Woolgrowing  in  this  section  of  Russia  has  fallen  off  very  much, 
and  very  little,  if  any,  wool  now  comes  to  tliis  country  from  there, 
or  is,  in  fact,  ever  offered  to  American  buyers. 

All  the  long-stapled  Russian  fleece  wools,  Donskois,  Savolgas,  etc., 
are  higlily  desirable  to  the  makere  of  good  carpets  on  account  of  their 
color,  resiliency,  and  strength. 

All  Russian  fleece  wools  which  are  shipped  to  America  come  in  the 
washed  condition.  For  the  preparation  of  the  Donskoi  and  Savolga 
fleeces  there  are  specially-built  washeries  where  the  business  is  carried 
on  in  a  more  or  less  elaborate  scale.  There  is  no  macliineiy  used  for 
the  washing  of  wool,  but  large  tanks  are  placed  along  the  river  and 
the  greasy  fleeces,  after  being  first  assorted  by  color,  are  soaked  in 
the  tanks  in  wliich  a  certain  amount  of  soap  is  used.  The  wool  is 
then  taken  and  put  in  other  tanks  and  rinsed  by  hand,  after  which  it 
is  taken  and  spread  out  in  the  sun  to  dry. 

During  the  process  of  drying,  the  employees,  who  are  mostly 
women,  go  over  the  wool  and  pick  out  yellow  and  stained  and  dark-, 
colored  pieces  of  wool.  The  white  wool,  after  drying,  is  then  taken 
to  the  presses  and  packed  for  shipment  to  America.  In  some  of  the 
best  equipped  washeries  hot  water  is  also  used  along  with  the  soap, 
which  results  in  cleaner  wool. 

In  the  Bessarabian  districts  around  Kishineff  is  to  be  found  a 
moderate  quantity  of  Zackel  wools,  similar  to  what  has  already  been 
described  as  grown  in  Hungary.  Probably  the  sheep  here  know  no 
international  boundary,  but  wander  at  will  over  the  borders  of 
Hungary  and  Roumania.  The  Russian  wool  of  this  type  is  not  so 
good  as  the  Hungarian ;  it  is  long  staple,  sound  wool,  but  apt  to  be 
very  coarse  and  hairy  and  wdth  an  enormous  shrinkage. 

PART   II. — GEORGIAN   WOOLS. 

From  the  Province  of  Georgia  come  some  of  the  best  wools  of 
Class  III  grown  in  the  Russian  Empire.  These  are  known  as  Georgian 
wools.  There  are  two  varieties — Toucha,  or  what  is  commonly 
called  "Georgian  wool,"  and  Nouka,  sometimes  called  "Nouka 
Georgian." 

The  Toucha  is  the  better  of  the  two  in  every  respect  and  both  the 
spring  and  autumn  clips  are  very  desirable  wools  on  account  of  their 
good  wliite  color,  springiness  or  resihency,  strength  and  good  sound 
staple.  The  spring  wool  is  longer  staple  than  the  autumn  wool  and 
is  also  finer  in  quality  and  softer.    But  the  latter  has  a  'Sviry"  fea- 


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EBPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOABD  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


ture,  giving  a  fuller  and  thicker  thread  and  a  resistance  to  foot  pres- 
sure, whicJi  makes  it  valuable  for  the  plush  variety  of  carpet. 

The  proportion  of  colored  wool  is  about  10  per  cent.  Both  white 
wool  and  colored  are  highly  valued  for  good  grades  of  plush  carpets, 
such  as  Axminster,  velvets,  and  Wiltons. 

The  Nouka  wool  is  also  a  useful  carpet  wool,  but  is  yellowish  tinged 
and  sometimes  contains  lieht-gray  hairs.  It  is  also  used  in  carpets, 
but  is  not  put  into  the  highest  grades. 

As  a  rule  there  is  no  washing  done  to  Georgian  wools  after  they 
leave  the  sheep's  back.  The  wool  is  sorted  according  to  the  condition 
or  the  cleanliness  of  the  fleece,  and  in  this  manner  the  various  marks 
of  *'B00,"  "BO,''  *'B,"  and  "BS"  reoresent  the  degree  of  cleanli- 
ness. The  colors  are  marked  "G/'  ''GC,''  or  "GF''  to  indicate  gray, 
light  gray,  or  dark  gray.  The  pieces  are  the  bits  of  short  wool  that 
fall  out  in  the  process  of  sorting. 

There  are  otner  varieties  of  Class  III  wools  grown  in  the  Caucasus 
Mountains  and  in  the  southern  parts  of  Georgia.  Amongst  them  are 
Tarakama,  mountain  Tartary,  and  Shousha. 

None  of  these  are  of  great  value  even  for  the  lower-grade  carpets 
such  as  ingrains.  They  are  tender,  kempy,  irregular  in  staple  and 
poor  in  color,  and  also  very  heavy  in  shrmkage.  Very  few  of  these 
are  imported  into  America. 

t     Most  of  the  Geor^an  wools  are  packed  in  Tiflis  and  shipped  thence 
direct  to  American  importers. 

PAKT  HI. — camel' 8-HAIB. 

Specially  named  in  Class  III  of  Schedule  K  of  the  tariff  as  ''Kussian 

camel' s-hair."  .  i.         i      •/? 

This  has  been  held  by  the  board  of  appraisers  not  to  be  a  classm- 
cation  bv  race  or  blood  but  only  to  refer  to  such  camel' s-hair  as  is 
preparecf  for  shipment  and  packed  in  Eussia.  All  Asiatic  camels  are 
of  the  same  race,  but  climatic  conditions  and  the  care  or  treatment 
given  the  animal  have  their  effect  on  the  hair.  Thus  in  the  hot 
southern  countries  this  is  shorter,  stubbier,  and  of  httle  use.  In 
Borthem  and  central  Asia,  the  climate  being  milder,  gives  longer, 

sounder,  and  finer  hair.  ,     , ,    ..         ,  i     •  j. 

1  Russian  camel's-hair  varies ;  the  most  valuable  from  the  standpoint 
of  the  American  manufacturers  is  the  long  coarse  strong  hau-.  The 
use  to  which  it  is  pat— i.  e.,  the  manufacture  of  bagging  for  pressing 
cotton  seed— requires  a  varn  of  the  greatest  possible  tensile  strength, 
and  tliis  can  best  be  ma3e  from  this  long  coarse  hair. 
I  This  kind  is  found  in  the  steppes  between  the  Volga  and  Ural  Kivere 
and  bordering  on  the  Caspian  Sea,  and  it  is  collected  and  packed  and 
shipped  to  America  from  several  large  cities  in  that  section  or  is  sent 
pp  the  Volga  River  and  sold  at  the  big  annual  fair  at  Nishm  Novgorod 
in  August  and  September.  „   i    •       m 

Orenburg  is  also  a  large  center  for  the  sale  of  camel  s-nair.  llie 
hair  here  is  not  as  long  in  staple  nor  as  strong  as  the  coarser  vanety 
named  above.  It  is  also  much  dirtier.  Most  of  the  Orenburg  hair 
is  used  in  Russia  or  exported  to  Germany  or  England. 

In  former  years  when  cameFs-hair  was  free  of  duty,  a  large  quan- 
titv  of  Orenburg  hair  was  imported  for  use  in  making  the  cheapest 
gray  carpet  yams,  but  the  present  original  cost,  plus  the  duty,  makes 


BEPOBT  OF   TABIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


427 


it  now  too  expensive  for  use  in  carpets.  The  shorter  stapled  camel 's- 
hair,  such  as  the  central  Asia  kinds,  have  little  or  no  sale  in  America. 

Some  good  quahty  hairs  are  found  in  Siberia,  such  as  Chansk  and 
Semipolatinsk  hair,  a  httle  finer  grade  from  Biisk  on  the  MongoUan 
frontier,  but  they  are  rarely  exported  to  America. 

Camel's-hair  is  almost  always  shipped  without  any  preparation  other 
than  sorting  for  grade.     It  is  neither  washed  nor  cleaned  as  a  rule. 

It  may  be  said  that  there  is  camel's-hair  from  other  countries  which 
is  identical  with  some  varieties  of  the  Russian  hair;  it  would  seem  as 
if  these  should  pay  the  same  duty  as  ** Russian"  hair. 

PART   IV. — CENTRAL   ASIATIC   WOOLS. 

These  arc:  Bokhara,  Turkestan,  Merv,  trans-Caspian,  and  Calmuc 
or  Kerghiz  wools.  Of  all  these  there  is  a  spring  clip  and  an  autumn 
clip. 

Bokhara  wool  is  principally  colored  wool — i.  e.,  Hght  gray,  dark 
gray,  and  black.  The  spring  cHp  is  long  staple,  but  with  a  fine  under- 
growth which  makes  it  an  excellent  felting  wool.  It  is  chiefly  used 
m  the  manufacture  of  cheap  felt  boots  worn  by  the  farmers  and  other 
outdoor  workers  of  the  Northwest.  The  autumn  Bokhara  wools  are 
aU  used  in  Russia.  j 

Turkestan,  Merv,  amd  trans- Caspian  wools, — These  three  are  of  the 
same  or  a  very  similar  nature,  and  have,  consequently,  the  same 
uses.     Both  the  spring  and  autumn  wools  are  shipped  to  America,     j 

White  wool  constitutes  60  per  cent  of  the  product,  the  remainder 
being  light  gray,  dark  gray,  and  black;  but  the  two  latter  are  rarely 
sent  to  this  country,  as  there  is  a  constant  home  demand.  \ 

These  wools  are  sold  to  the  manufacturers  of  medium-grade  carpets 
made  from  wool  spun  yarns,  such  as  Axminsters,  Smyrna  rugs,  and 
ingrains.  The  spring-clip  wool,  being  longer  staple,  is  also  sometimes 
used  in  the  lower  grades  of  carpet  worsted  yarns  for  ingrams  and 
tapestries.  •  , 

Calmuc  wools,  which  are  found  not  only  in  aU  central  Asia  but  in 
the  more  northerly  section  of  Asiatic  Russia,  as  far  north  as  the 
Siberian  Railway,  and  which  are  also  found  in  Mongolia,  are  all  from 
the  sheep  owned  by  the  nomadic  tribes  of  the  Kherghiz.  Without 
proper  care  or  attention  of  any  kind,  driven  about  from  place  to 
place,  where  the  land  is  rough  and  the  pasturage  poor,  these  sheep 
produce  a  rough,  coarse,  matted  wool,  which  does  not  seem  to  be 
shorn,  but  rather  torn  off  the  sheep's  back.  The  inside  of  the  fleece 
is  principally  coarse,  short,  kempy  hair,  indicating  hard,  rough  usage 
and  poor  nourishment.  There  is  a  considerable  variation  in  Calmuc 
wools;  none,  however,  are  of  great  attraction  except  at  very  low 
prices^  even  to  the  maker  of  the  poorest  carpets.  There  has  been 
very  little  sold  to  America  in  recent  years:  especially  since  the  decline 
of  the  ingrain-carpet  and  Smyrna-rug  industry. 

These  wools  are  packed  in  the  larger  cities  of  central  Asia.  The 
Bokhara  wool  is  pnncipally  shipped  from  the  city  of  Bokhara,  where 
it  is  assorted  for  color  and  also  cleaned  by  hand— that  is,  by  shaking 
out  the  dry  dirt,  and  also  by  willowing. 

^    Turkestan,  Merv,  and  trans-Caspian  wools  are  sorted  and  packed 
in  various  cities  of  central  Asia,  including  Merv,  Tashkent,  and  Tur- 


■"iM|l»gl!'i!!;'--y'«l«lllf  ■iiiM  I         ■  .III.— H 


428 


BEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE   K, 


f 


I I I 

ft  "I 


kostan.  Some  of  them  are  also  washed  at  these  places,  although 
quite  a  large  proportion  of  these  wools  are  what  are  termed  '^pere- 
gou;"  that  is,  brook  washed. 

PART   V. — ADJACENT  COUNTRIES. 

The  business  of  the  various  countries  bordering  on  Asiatic  Kussia 
and  Siberia  is  naturally  with  Russia,  the  merchants  from  that  coun- 
try controlling  especialljr  the  export  business  of  the  raw  products. 
Wool  is  one  of  the  principal  articles,  and  for  this  reason  is  treated 
iinder  the  general  heading  of  '^Russia." 

Afghanistan  is  a  proliibited  land  to  all  wliite  men  to  such  an  extent 
that  its  products  are  all  exported  by  the  native  traders  to  the  nearest 
adjacent  countries.  Thus,  produce  of  various  kinds  from  southern 
Afghanistan  goes  into  India;  from  the  western  part  it  goes  into 
Persia;  and  from  the  northern  part,  near  Herat  and  other  adjoining 
sections,  it  goes  into  Russia. 

Wool  is  one  of  the  principal  exports,  and  such  of  it  as  goes  over 
the  northern  border  is  conveyed  in  its  original  unwashed  state  into 
Asiatic  Russia,  where  it  is  prepared,  washed,  and  packed.  Kerki 
and  Chardchui  are  the  principal  Russian  markets  for  Afghan  wools. 
Its  characteristics  are  those  of  a  Khorassan  wool,  but  somewhat 
longer  in  staple  and  not  so  fme  in  grade;  but  it  is  better  in  all  these 
points  than  a  Turkestan  wool.  It  is  at  times  mixed  with  and  sold  as 
a  Khorassan  wool 

Afghanistan,  wool  is  always  shipped  out  of  that  country  in  the 
natural  condition,  and  consequently  it  has  a  very  heavy  shrinkage, 
not  only  in  washing,  but  also  in  sorting  and  preparing  for  export. 

PART   VI. — PERSIA- KHORASSAN   WOOLS. 

Kliorassan  wools  come  from  the  eastern  part  of  Persia  from  the 
Province  of  Kliorassan. 

There  are  two  chps — spring  and  autumn — and  both  consist  of 
white  and  colored  wools,  with  about  60  per  cent  of  white.  Both  clips 
are  usually  sold  in  the  waslied  condition  and  the  whites  and  colors 
packed  separately. 

The  washing  of  Kliorassan  wool  is  usually  crudely  done  by  the 
native  growers  or  collectors,  although  there  are  some  washing  4tab- 
lishments  in  Meshed  modeled  after  the  Russian  pattern. 

The  spring  clip  is  of  fair  combing  staple,  the  wliite  a  good  color, 
the  grade  rather  fine  for  a  carpet  wool — better  than  the  Turkestan 
or  Transcaspian  wools  of  central  Asia.  This  is  a  wool  much  sought 
after  for  carpets  of  good  grade  when  price  is  low;  the  last  few  seasons 
it  has,  however,  been  too  expensive  for  American  use. 

The  fall  or  autumn  clip  is  also  a  very  desirable  carpet  wool  of  a 
good  white  color,  high  grade  (for  a  Class  III  wool)^  springy  or  resil- 
ient, and  a  very  good  spinning  wool.  It  is  required  for  the  best 
grades  of  wool-spun  carpet  yam  for  Axminsters  and  other  similar 
fabrics.  It  is  not  as  costly  as  the  fleece  wool,  and  conseouently  is 
much  in  demand  in  America.  Colored  or  gray  autumn  Kliorassans 
are  also  considerably  used  for  coarse  felts.  The  principal  point  of 
shipment  is  MeshetL  where  are  stationed  many  Russian  and  other 
European  houses.  All  of  it  is  shipped  on  camels  or  carts  to  the  Russia 
frontier  and  thence  by  rail  and  steamer  to  Batoum. 


REPORT  OP  TARIFF   BOARD   ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


PART   VII. — KASHGAR   WOOL. 


429 


This  comes  from  the  Province  of  East  or  Chinese  Turkestan. 
The  wool  is  named  after  the  capital  city  whence  it  comes.  It  is 
washed,  sorted,  and  packed  in  the  Kashgar  district,  Russian  or  Tar- 
tar merchants  having  their  agencies  there,  and  is  brought  by  camels 
or  other  similar  transportation  into  Russian  Turkestan,  where  it  is 
shipped  by  rail  to  Russia. 

This  is  a  high-priced  wool,  of  very  good  white  color,  silky,  and  soft, 
fine  grade.  It  is  one  of  the  highest-grade  wools  from  central  Asia. 
Although  a  very  much-hkod  wool  for  carpets  of  high  grade,  the  price 
has  been  prohibitive  in  late  years,  as  the  Russians  hke  it  for  woolen 
cloths  and  other  fabrics. 

PART   VIII. — MOXGOLIAX    WOOL. 

There  are  three  divisions  of  MongoHan  wools.  First,  the  wool 
from  western  Mongoha;  second,  from  central  Mongoha;  third,  from 
eastern  Mongoha  or  Manchuria.  That  from  western  Mongoha  is 
washed  in  the  district  around  Kobdo,  thence  conveyed  in  the  autumn 
to  Biisk  in  Siberia  and  sorted  and  packed  there  in  the  winter  months. 

All  Mongohan  wools  are  kempy,  but  the  wool  from  this  part  is  the 
freest  from  kemp,  whitest  color,  and  best  in  grade.  It  is  a  very  valu- 
able wool  for  Axminister  carpets,  as  it  dyes  the  very  brightest  colors, 
spins  well,  and  helps  to  make  a  thick,  springy  carpet.  Many  thou- 
sand bales  are  shipped  yearly  to  the  United  States  from  Biisk,  pur- 
chased by  American  merchants  or  shipped  by  Russian  merchants  on 
consignment.  They  come  bv  river  to  the  Siberian  Railway  and  thence 
to  the  Baltic  port.  In  all  the  central  and  western  parts  of  Mongoha 
are  large  quantities  of  sheep,  and  the  visible  supply  of  wool  has  increased 
remarkably  the  last  8  or  10  years.  Tliis  has  made  up  largely  for  the 
loss  of  the  autumn  Donskois  and  Crimean  wools.  Up  to  15  years  ago 
Mongohan  wool  was  scarcely  known  here;  some  of  it  went  dowTi  to 
Chinese  ports,  but  most  of  it  remained  in  Mongolia,  used  by  the 
natives  in  their  rough,  homemade  felts. 

The  Mongohan  wools  from  central  Mongoha  are  shipped  from  Urga. 
They  are  washed  and  packed  here  and  conveyed  on  sledges  or  carts  to 
the  frontier,  thence  by  steamer  to  Werchneudinsk,  and  here  thev  are 
shipped  over  the  Siberian  Railway  fine  to  a  Baltic  port  whence 'thev 
are  forwarded  to  America. 

Most  of  the  Urga  wool  finds  its  way  to  American  mills.  It  is  also 
a  good  wool  for  Axminster  carpets;  the  quality  and  color  is  not 
equal  to  the  Busk  wool  and  it  has  more  coarse  hairs  and  kemps 

Ihe  wool  from  eastern  Mongolia  is  also  called  Manchurian.     It  is 
a  new  development  since  the  close  of  the  Russian- Japanese  War 
A  rough,  coarse  hairy  and  kempy  wool  of  good  color,  it  is  only  suit- 
able for  the  lowest  grades  of  carpets.     This  is  shipped  tlirough 
Kussia  in  Europe  or  to  Vladivostok  and  via  the  Pacific 

Although  there  can  be  sorted  out  of  all  Mongolian  wools  some 
portions  of  good  staple  for  combing  purposes,  the  proportion  of  this 
kind  is  not  very  large;  most  of  it  is  a  filling  wool.  There  is  with  it 
usua  ly  20  per  cent  of  gray  or  colored  wopl  which  is  generally  used 
locally  or  sold  m  Russia.  b  j        ^ 


430 


BEPORT  OF  TABIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


Ill 


These  wools  have  usually  been  washed  by  the  native  merchants  in 
the  place  of  origin  or  in  the  nearest  riTer.  This  has  been  done  to 
save  expense  of  transporting  the  heavy  greasy  wool  over  the  Russian 
frontier. 

Recently  washeries  have  been  established  in  Mongolia  by  Euro- 
pean houses,  where  the  wool  is  not  only  well  washed  and  dried,  but 
also  sorted  carefully  according  to  quahty  and  color. 

Asiatic  Wools. 

In  the  entire  Continent  of  Asia  there  is  only  one  small  section  where 
there  can  be  found  any  wool  that  does  not  belong  by  race  or  blood 
to  Class  III.  It  is  said  that  once  upon  a  time  one  of  the  former 
Sultans  of  Turkey  owned  a  small  flock  of  merino  sheep  and  from 
these  tliere  was  oBtained  f or  many  years  a  small  quantity  of  so-called 
merino  wool,  to  wliich  was  given  the  name  Panderma  wool.  More 
probably,  however,  the  wool  known  by  tliis  name  is  obtained  from 
Kumelian  sheep,  which  each  spring  are  taken  over  to  the  Asiatic 
side  of  the  Bosphorus  and  driven  tlirough  the  rich  grazing  lands  near 
Panormo.  The  production  is  insignificant  and  is  only  here  men- 
tioned because  a  type  is  correctly  included  in  the  present  cabinet  of 
standard  samples  under  No,  146  as  a  Class  I  wool. 

Two  other  varieties  of  wool  from  Asia  are  now  included  in  Class  I, 
but  this  is  quite  arbitrary  and  enturely  contrary  to  blood  or  race 
classification. 

These  are:  Bagdad  wool,  which  is  described  in  detail  hereafter.* 
Also  Cliina  lamb's  wool,  a  designation  applied  to  a  very  limited 
quantity  of  China  wool  and  wldcli  is  not  of  importance  to  the  Ameri- 
can manufacjturer  of  carj^ets.  Both  these  are,  however,  by  race  or 
blood,  of  Class  III. 

There  is  an  infinite  variety  of  wools  of  all  grades  and  conditions 
included  in  what  is  produced  m  Asia.  There  are  some  of  good  quality 
and  others  coarser  than  hair,  but  all  of  them  are  primarily,  if  not 
entirely,  used  and  only  suitable  for  the  production  of  carpets.  In 
fact,  the  carpet  industry  in  America  depends  more  on  wools  from 
Asia  than  from  all  the  rest  of  the  world.  It  is  worth  while  to  keep 
in  mind  the  fact  that  the  countries  which  produce  tlie  best  of  these 
wools  are  the  homes  of  the  oriental  ru^s  or  carpets.  These  carpets 
which  are  so  largely  imported  and  sold  in  Amenca  are  all  manufac- 
tured in  Asiatic  Turkey,  in  Persia,  in  central  Asiatic  Russia,  or  in 
India.  In  tliese  countries  are  to  be  found  the  best  grades  of  carpet 
wools  grown  in  Asia;  not  only  the  wools  that  are  finest  in  fiber,  but 
also  tlie  wools  that  produc^  in  a  carpet  the  most  pleasing  effect  and 
have  the  best  wearing  qualities. 

The  American  manufacturers  of  carpets  have  become  more  tliun 
ever  alive  to  this  fact  within  the  last  10  or  15  years,  and  as  a  result  are 
producing  from  these  very  same  wools  rugs  and  carnets  which  in 
appearance  are  as  attractive  as  the  oriental  and  wliich  they  claim  will 
wear  quite  as  well,  if  not  better. 

For  this  i-eason  the  manufacture  re  of  the  highest  grades  of  carpet® 
to-dav  in  America  depend  in  a  great  measure  upon  the  supply  of  the 
wool  that  comes  from  this  part  of  Asia,  and  without  them  the  produc- 
tion of  the  best  grades  would  not  be  possible. 


REPORT  OF   TARIFF   BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 

Turkey  ix  Asia. 


431 


Asiatic  Turkey  produces  many  varieties  of  Class  III  wool,  all  of 
them  carpet  wools  of  the  best  kinds.  In  tlie  list  below  is  given  man}- 
well-known  sorts,  but  there  are  many  other  minor  grades  or  classes, 
©ome  of  which  are  mixed  with  the  better-known  kinds.  The  princi- 
pal classes  are: 

From  Asia  Minor  and  Anatolia:  Angora,  Caramanian,  Samsoun, 
Yosgat,  Smyrna  (called  in  the  tariff  ^^ native  Smyrna"),  Yerli,  Bk)ul- 
dour,  Konieh,  etc. 

Cyprus  wool,  from  the  Island  of  Cyprus. 

From  Syria:   Aleppo,  Orfa,  Damascus,  and  Jaffa  wools. 

From  Mesopotamia:  Bagdad,  Awassi  or  Mossoul,  Kerkouk,  ICaradi 
or  Caracasch,  Bussorali  wools. 

There  are  also  wools  coming  into  the  region  of  the  River  Tigris  from 
the  hills  and  tablelands  of  southwestern  Persia,  including  the  Prov- 
inces of  Luristan  and  Kurdistan.  These  are  mixed  in  with  the 
Karadi,  Awaasi,  or  Bussorah  wools. 

From  the  south  of  Persia  comes  Bushire  wool,  shipped  from  the 
city  of  that  name. 

Tlie  Aiigora  group  comprises  genuine  Angora,  Samsoun,  Yosgat, 
Caramanian,  Eskesnir,  Smyrna,  Bouldour,  etc.  The  principal  mar- 
kets for  the  Angora  variety  of  wools  are  Constantinople,  Smyrna, 
Samsoun,  Angora,  and  Mersina.  They  are  usually  imported  in  the 
unwashed  condition,  often  in  the  original  state,  unclassed  or  unas- 
sorted. The  percentage  of  colored  wool  is  rarelv  over  5  per  cent  and 
mostly  from  1  to  2  per  cent.  Tiiey  are  all  of  a  good  grade,  long- 
corabing  staple,  well-ffrown  wools  (i.  e.  not  verv  kempy),  and  are 
uniform  in  grade,  and  therefore  adapted  to  the  very  choicest  kinds 
of  carpets.  On  account  of  the  heavy  slirinkage,  which  averages  over 
50  per  cent,  they  are  usually  too  costly  for  '''filling"  or -wool-spun 
carpet  yarns,  even  for  wool  Axminsters  or  Wiltons;  therefore  the 
shorter  staple  varieties  are  sold  to  tlie  local  Turkish  carpet  factories, 
who  also  buj  the  longer  wools  largely  and  produce  from  them  enor- 
mous quantities  of  Turkish  carpets. 

Incidentally  it  may  be  said  that  the  largest  group  or  combination 
of  onental  cari>et  manufacturers  m  Turkey  has  its  headquarters  in 
bmyma.  It  clauns  to  have  45,000  hand  looms  and  to  employ  70  000 
people,  scattered  through  Asia  iMinor,  in  the  manufacture  of  tliese 
carpets.  A  lurkish  hand  loom  is,  of  course,  a  decidedly  different 
proposition  to  an  American  power  loom;  nevertheless,  the  output  of 
this  one  concern  is  very  large.  It  is  therefore  interesting  to  note  that 
the  American  nulls  making  the  best  carpets  i-equire  the  same  material 
as  tliese  oriental  carpet  factories,  and  have  at  all  times  to  meet  their 
active  competition  m  the  purchase  of  raw  material,  as  well  as  in  the 
sale  ot  the  finished  product. 

Cyprus  wool  is  from  the  island  of  that  name.     The  production  is 
not  large  and  the  wool  is  not  very  much  sought  by  American  buyers. 
It  is^coarse  and  kempy  and  straight  fibered,  absolutely  unsuitable  for 
the  best  grades  of  carpts,  and  not  very  desirable  for  the  poorer  ones 
it  is  all  combing  wool. 

The  Aleppo  group  composed  of  wools  from  Aleppo,  Oiia,  Horns 
and  llama,  Damascus,  and  Jaffa,  are  now  usually  imported  into 
America  in  the  washed  condition,  although  m  former  years  these 


432 


BEPOKT  OF  TAKIFF  BOAKB  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


ca: 


me  in  the  original  state  as  packed  in  the  interior     pome  of  the 
washed  woolTare  "skirted''  and  "hand  cleaned  — j-.e-.  ?11  ^e 


loose  heavj'  dm,  is  shaken  out  and  they  are  sent  forward  m  this  con- 
ditioA.    Usually  there  averages  about  10  per  cent  of  colored  fleeces 

^"S!  WTO  there^iTan  abundance  of  water  and  as  the  shrinkage 
in  scouring  of  the  original  wool  is  always  very  beevy-f rom  53  to  55 
per  cent-it  has  been  found  more  advantageous  to  the  importer  to 
W  clean  washed  wool  and  not  only  save  ^uty  and  ^ rfiglj^t  "i*  *« 
dirt,  but  to  have  an  article  which  he  c_an  guarantee  to  the  buyer. 

EVen  the  European  buyer  now  prefers  the  washed  wools,  whioh, 
being  sold  usuaUy  under  a  guarantee  as  to  shnnkage,  are  much  more 

^^^'^ri^Jng  is  usuaUy  done  in  a  series  of  tubs  by  the  large  streams 
or  rivers.  ThS  fleece  is  dipped  first  into  one  tub  and  rinsed  then  mto 
the  next  and  so  on  to  the'last  tub  until  the  required  degree  of  clean- 
Less  has  been  reached      LittlC,  if  any,  soap  or  alkali  js  used 

These  wools  are  aU  long,  combing  wools— yen-  chMce  for  color, 
erade  and  staple,  sound,  strong  woolk,  and  resdicnt.  They  are  used 
C  ali  the  best  ckipets,  WiltoS,  Axminsters.  velvets,  and  Brussels, 
and  the  various  kinds  of  high-grade  dom^tic  rugs. 

The  original  shipping  points  aro  chiefly  A  eppo  Damascus  and 
Beirut,  an^  most  of^them  are  put  on  board  ship  at  Alexandretta  or 

^  From  Mesopotamia  the  group  comprises  Awa^is  or  Mossouls. 
Kamdis  or  Car^acasch  and  also  Bu^orali  wools.  J"  t^is^JR— 
also  be  included  Bagdad  wools.  This  wool  was  taken  out  of  Uass  lU 
S  plaSd  in  Class!  in  the  tariff  of  1897,  although  it  dacs  not  belong 
to  that  eroup  by  race  or  blood.  It  is  one  of  the  same  ra«e  as  tlie 
Aw^^  but  in  the  fertile  valleys  of  lower  Mesopotamia  the  sheep 
^n^ter  nurtured  and  give,  consequently,  a  wool  of  somewhat 

'^aJiSd  wools  contain  40  to  50  per  cent  or  more  of  colored  wools— 
i  n    browns  and  blacks  and  grays.  ,     „      .  ,  , ,  ,       j 

AwaSior  Mossoul  wool  comes  from  the  Provmce  of  Mossoul  and 
We^  the  t^  rivere-Tigris  and  Euphrates.  From  Kerkouk 
Smes  the  iLHtapk  of  this  class  of  woof,  although  m  the  western 
rcrioL  are  ™  Awa^is  of  verv  even  grade  and  g(K>d  staple  and  at 
Sr^ome  of  them  are  bought  V  the  Aleppo  merchants  and  mixed 

^TheVroportTon^of  colored  fleeces  varj^  in  these  wools;  anvwhere 
from  25  to  40  per  cent  is  the  rule.  Most  Awassis  are  shipped  m.the 
Sed  condition,  but  the  washing  is  very  irregular  as  it  is  done  ma 
very  crude  manner,  often  by  simply  dippmg  the  entire  loUed-up 
grely  fleece  into  the  water  so  that  the  outside  «"rf^^^«  ""^^^^P'^^f 
tialh'  cleansed  and  the  interior  is  untouched.  The  shrinkage  oi 
different  iXas  imported  varj-,  therefore,  very  greatly,  ninmng  any- 

where  from  12  to  40  per  cent.  ,    .         .   .     xi 

The  best  washed  wools  are  dipped  several  times  J«to  the  stre^^^ 
each  thne  being  rinsed  or  sciiieezed  between  the  IW^^^ 
a  series  of  tubs  are  used  as  in  the  case  of  the  Aleppo  ^o^ls. 

Karadi  or  Caracasch  wools  come  from  the  moimtamous  repons  of 
the  Perso-Turkish  frontier  and  consequently  are  cM>arser  ancT  W^ 
stapled  than  the  Awassi.    Varymg  very  much  m  different  lots,  both 


BEPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOAKD  ON   SCHEDUIiE  K. 


433 


in  color  and  grade,  they  almost  all  contain  a  large  proportion  of 
fleeces  with  gray  hairs,  so  that  it  is  impossible  to  get  a  lot  of  purely 
white  wool.  This  is  irrespective  of  the  colored  fleeces,  which  run 
from  25  to  40  per  cent,  as  m  the  Awassis. 

These  wools  are  mostly  packed  in  Bagdad,  as,  although  there  are 
large  collectors  in  the  interior  points,  transportation  for  packed  bales 
to  Bagdad  is  very  difficult.  Both  are  strictly  carpet  wools,  but  are 
used  for  the  best  grades  of  carpets.  They  are  shipped  by  steamer 
from  Bagdad  to  the  seacoast  and  thence  on  ocean  steamers  to  Europe 
or  America. 

Bussorah  wools  are  prepared  and  packed  in  the  city  of  Bussorah. 
They  are  local  wools,  although  some  come  from  the  Persian  side  of 
the  river.  They  are  not  very  desirable  carpet  wools,  bemg  more 
tender  and  irregidar  in  grade  and  staple  than  the  Awassis  and  Karadis, 
and  also  of  heavy  shrinkage.  The  proportion  of  colored  wool  is  large 
and  the  white  wool  is  rarelv  a  clear  white.  Very  few  axe  imported 
into  America;  most  are  sold  in  Liverpool. 

Bushire. — This  is  similar  to  the  Bussorah  wool,  but  is  still  more 
dirty  and  greasy  and  very  rough  and  irregular  in  grade  and  some- 
times of  very  snort  staple.  The  region  whence  they  are  shipped  is 
hot,  dry,  and  sandy  and  this  shows  in  the  unsatisfactory  character  of 
the  wool.  It  is  also  not  a  prominent  factor  in  American  importations 
of  Class  III;  most  of  it  is  sent  to  London  or  Liverpool  or  Marseille. 

India  and  Ad.tacent  Countries. 

It  is  estimated  that  India  exports  60,000,000  to  70,000,000  pounds 
of  wool  each  year,  aU  of  which  is  of  Class  III.  Most  of  it  is  sent  to 
Liverpool,  where  it  is  sold  at  auction  every  two  months.  A  certain 
quantity,  however,  is  shipped  direct  to  America  from  India. 

Although  most  wool  snipped  from  India  is  classed  as  East  India 
wool.  Quite  a  considerable  amount  of  it  is  imported  into  that  country 
from  the  adjoining  countries.  Afghanistan,  aheady  referred  to  as 
sending  wool  to  Russia,  furnishes  in  lar^e  quantities  some  of  the  best 
of  the  East  India  wools.  Baluchistan  is  also  drawn  on  for  supplies 
of  wools  and  very  much  comes  over  the  northern  borders  from  Tibet. 

India  itself  is,  however,  a  very  large  wool  raising  country.  The 
grades  vary  from  a  fine  Joria  to  a  coarse  Marwar,  which  latter  is  as 
poor  in  every  way  as  a  goat  hair.  All  of  them  contain  a  large  pro- 
portion of  gray  or  colored  wool. 

Joria  wool  is,  as  stated,  the  finest  haired  of  these  wools,  but  it  is  of 
short  staple.  In  its  original  unsorted  condition  it  contains  much 
rough  unsightly  coarse  and  burry  wool,  but  the  No.  1  sorts  taken 
from  the  best  parts  of  the  fleeces  are  of  very  good  grade  and  make  a 
springy  lofty  yarn  or  fabric. 

Vicanere  or  Bicanere  wools  contain  some  combing  wool,  although 
most  of  it  is  medium  or  short  staple.  It  is  not  so  fine  in  grade  as  the 
Joria,  a  Httle  better  color,  but  straighter  fibered.  Occasionally  the 
best  sorts  of  both  these  wools  are  imported  for  use  by  the  woolen 
manufacturers  when  rough  cheviots  or  homespuns  are  fashionable. 

Kandahar  wools,  which  come  into  India  from  southern  Afghanistan, 
axe  the  best  carpet  wools  shipped  from  that  country.     They  contain 
the  best  combing  wools,  suitable  for  high-grade  carpets — ^Wiltons 
Axminsters,  and  Brussels — ^wools  of  good  bright  cok>r,  ahnost  free 

32080'— H.  Doc.  342. 62-2,  vol  1 ^28 


434 


BEPOKT  OF  TAMFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


BEPOET  OF  TAEIFF  BOAED  ON   SCHEDUUB 


435 


from  kemp;  strong,  wiry,  resilient  wools.  From  them  the  native 
factories  produce  the  well-known  Indian  carpets.  There  are  also 
shorter  staple  Kandahars,  very  much  used  by  the  makers  of  wool- 
spun  carpet  yams;  also  very  good  carpet  wools. 

The  wools  from  Baluchistan  incluoe  the  Kelat  wools,  which  are 
lower  in  grade  and  shorter  in  staple  than  the  Kandahar.  These  are 
bought  very  largely  by  the  makers  of  the  cheaper  kinds  of  Axmin- 
sters,  tapestries,  and  Smyrna  rues. 

Pacputan  and  Jesselmere  wools  are  similar  to  Kelats:  usually  not 
very  good  in  color.     They  are  fillmg  wools  only. 

The  sorting  and  packing  of  aU  these  wools  is  done  in  India.  Bom- 
bay  and  Karachi  are  the  principal  places,  but  there  are  many  presses 
and  sorting  establishments  also  in  the  larger  cities  of  the  Punjab. 

Most  of  the  East  India  wools  are  washed  at  the  place  of  packing, 
the  water  being  drawn  from  weUs  especiaUy  dug  for  the  purpose. 

From  the  Province  of  Madra^  comes  a  smaU  quantity  of  a  low-grade 
short-stapled  hairy  wool.  It  is  of  little  value  to  American  manufac- 
turers. 

From  the  Province  of  Kashmir  also  comes  a  goat's  wool.  It 
resembles  a  sheep's  wool  in  many  ways,  but  it  is  a  goat's  hak  and 
properly  placed  in  Class  II,  although  of  too  poor  a  value  on  which 
to  p&j  12  cents  per  pound  duty. 

Tibet  wool. — Tnis  comes  from  that  large  and  very  much  unknown 
section  of  the  Chinese  Empire  called  Tibet.  It  is  brought  over  the 
northeastern  frontier  of  India  and  sold  and  packed  in  some  of  the 
border  towns,  or  else  brought  on  to  Calcutta  for  that  purpose.  This 
wool  is  handled  by  Calcutta  merchants  who  have  dealings  with  the 
interior  in  other  products. 

Although  it  is  shipped  from  India,  Tibet  wool  is  in  a  class  by  itself, 
and  is  not  generally  included  in  the  term  East  India  wool.  In  its 
original  condition  it  is  a  very  unsightlv  wool  and  very  difficult  to 
handle,  but  a  careful  sorting  of  it  produces,  in  the  different  colors, 
wool  that  is  very  desirable  for  long  staple,  good  spinning  quality, 
and  uniform*  grade.  It  is  principally  used  as  a  worsted  wool  for 
high-grade  carpets,  such  as  Brussels  and  Wiltons. 

There  is  a  strong  resemblance  between  this  wool  and  the  wool  from 
Kashgar.  It  is  quite  probable  that  they  are  very  closely  related  to 
each  other.  The  visible  production  of  Tibet  wool  has  increased 
largely  the  last  10  years,  on  account  of  the  opening  up  of  that  territory 
to  foreign  traders. 

CHINA. 

This  country  produces  one-third  or  more  of  the  carpet  wool  which 
is  shipped  to  the  United  States.  There  are  a  great  many  varieties. 
The  variation  is  not  only  in  quality  but  in  staple,  in  cleanliness  or 
condition,  in  decree  of  coarse  nair  or  kemp,  in  color,  and  m  almost 
every  other  possible  way  in  which  wool  can  vary.  Many  of  them  are 
without  any  definite  name,  and  those  which  have  a  name  can  not 
easily  be  located  by  this  name  on  any  ordinary  map.  The  exact  places 
of  origin  of  some  kinds  is  weU  known;  others  are  only  known  to  come 
from  some  undefined  place  in  the  interior. 

Broadly  speaking,  these  wools  can  only  be  divided  into  combing 
wools  and  filling  wools,  only  suitable  for  carpets,  but  on  account  of 
the  wide  variation  in  grade  there  can  be  found  those  which  axe  suitable 


' 


I 


for  the  finest  Axminster  or  Wilton;  whereas  others  are  only  fit  for 
an  ingrain  carpet  or  a  Smyrna  rug.  The  quahty  runs  from  a  fine,  soft, 
silky  variety  to  a  short,  poor,  kempy  wool.  The  low  price  of  certain 
of  the  poorer  kinds  makes  them  attractive  to  the  manufacturer  of  the 
cheapest  carpets.  They  are  all  good  spinning  wools,  but  as  they  are 
without  life  or  springiness,  they  produce  a  yam  which  is  "lean''  or 
"flat." 

It  is  hardly  possible  to  describe  in  detail  each  kind  of  China  wool. 
It  could  only  be  done  if  illustrated  by  samples,  so  that  reference  can 
only  be  made  to  a  very  few  of  the  varieties. 

It  may  be  said,  however,  that  the  central,  northern,  and  western 
parts  of  China  are  the  wool-growing  regions;  that  very  Httle,  if  any, 
comes  from  the  southern  provinces  and  that  Shanghai  and  Tientsm 
are  the  chief  markets  for  the  sale,  sorting,  packing,  and  shipping. 
To  both  of  these  places  large  quantities  are  brought  down  from  the 
interior;  that  which  comes  to  Shanghai  arrives  by  boat  down  the 
Yangtze  River,  and  what  comes  to  Tientsin  arrives  by  rail  or 
camel  or  other  land  transportation. 

Tientsin  is  by  far  the  larger  market  of  the  two;  wool  is  one  of  the 
leading  articles  shipped  from  that  city. 

The  combing  varieties  of  China  wool  are  Sining  wool  and  Szechwan 
wool.  Smmg  wool  is  a  good,  long  staple,  weU-^rown  wool,  makmg  a 
very  good  carpet  worsted  yam,  and  is  used  for  all  kinds  of  carpets.  It 
is  not  a  lofty  wool,  but  on  account  of  its  color  and  good  spinning  qual- 
ities finds  great  favor  with  almost  every  manufacturer. 

Szechwan  wool  is  also  a  combing  wool,  but  is  shorter  in  staple  than  a 
Sining  wool.     It  is  also  used  as  a  filling  wool. 

Ball  wools  are  a  peculiar  variety  wmch  come  principally  from  the 
northern  part  of  China.  They  are  in  Uttle  rolls  or  balls.  Some  of 
these  are  very  fine  in  grade,  and  are,  for  this  reason,  very  good  spinning 
wools. 

Woosie  wool  is  also  an  odd  variety  of  a  soft,  silky  nature,  a  good 
spinning  wool ,  but  of  indifferent  color.  This  comes  from  the  neighbor- 
hood of  Shanghai. 

The  following  is  a  partial  list  of  some  of  the  chief  varieties  of  China 
wool,  but  the  correctness  of  the  orthography  is  not  vouched  for. 

Coming  from  Shanghai  and  the  Yangtze  Kiver,  the  Szechwan  and 
Woosie. 

Coming  from  Tientsin,  the  Hsee  Ning  (or  Si-mng),  the  Kinchow, 
the  Kooiun,  the  Liangchow,  the  Yungchang,  the  Paotze,  the  Hsihtsui, 
the  Hada,  the  Chentze,  the  Hsiko,  and  Ngotze,  and  the  ball  wool. 

China  wools  come  down  from  the  interior  usually  in  the  heavy, 
greasy,  unsorted,  and  unwashed  condition.  There  are  large  sorting 
establishments,  both  in  Shanghai  and  Tientsin,  where  the  wool  is  graded 
according  to  color  and  more  or  less  according  to  quality  of  staple. 

There  are  also  machine-washing  establishments  with  the  latest 
improved  American  washing  apparatus,  as  well  as  "willows  "  for  shak- 
mg  out  the  dry  dirt  from  the  wools  that  do  not  need  washing. 

AFEICA. 

Africa  produces  very  little  Class  III  wool.  Egypt  produces  some 
wool  which  was  formerly  considered  Class  III,  not  being  racially 
of  mermo  or  Enghsh  blood,  and  it  was  ''simHar^'  to  others  named  in 


436 


BEPOKT  OF  TARIFF  BOABD  ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


Class  in,  but  Congress,  in  the  tariff  of  1897,  placed  wool  from 
E^t  in  Class  I— an  arbitraiy  classification. 

The  Sudan  produces  some  wool  of  Class  III,  but  it  isneyer  brought 
to  America  direct  from  that  country.  There  are  some  Sudan  sheep 
skins  tanned  in  Europe,  the  wool  of  which  has  been  imported  here  in 
smaU  lots. 

North  Africa,  Tunis,  Tripoli,  Algiers,  Morocco,  aU  raise  wools 
from  sheep  of  Class  III  crossed  with  merino.  The  trace  of  merino 
is  very  remote,  but  still  enough  to  place  them  in  Class  I,  although 
many  are  little  used  for  clothing  purposes.  '^Morocco"  is  one  of  tne 
names  added  in  the  tariff  of  1897  to  wools  of  Class  I.  It  belongs  to 
this  class  by  race  or  blood. 

The  wool  from  other  parts  of  Africa  io  rarely  seen. 


AUS'mA.LASIA  • 


This,  the  greatest  wool-growing  section  of  the  world,  is  not  a  pro- 
ducer of  Class  III  wools.  There  are  few,  if  any,  *  'native''  sheep  here, 
merino  and  cross-bred  wools  making  up  the  entire  output. 

SOUTH  AMERICA. 

Wools  of  Class  III  are  found  in  two  sections  of  this  continent. 

First,  on  the  west  coast;  second,  in  the  Argentine.  They  are 
specifically  named  in  the  tariff  '' Native  South  American,  Valparaiso 
and  Cordova  wools.'' 

The  west  coast  wo^ls  are  principaUy  produced  in  Chile  and  are 
usually  sliipped  from  Valparaiso  to  New  York.  The  supply  is  limited 
growing  less  each  year,  owing  to  the  world-wide  fasfion  of  cross 
breeding  of  sheep. 

All  &uth  American  carpet  wools  are  excellent  wools  for  high 
grade  carpets,  good  in  color,  quality,  and  staple.  They  are  ahnost 
entirely  shipped  to  the  United  States. 

Cordova  wools  are  also  diminishing  in  supply,  but  there  are  yet 
several  million  pounds  produced  yearly.  They  come  mostly  from 
the  Provinces  o?  Cordova  and  Sai  Luis  in  >hi  Argentina  alad  are 
packed  in  the  interior  and  shipped  via  Rosario. 

The  characteristics  of  Cordova  wools  are  high  grade,  white  color, 
good  combing  staple  and  a  loftiness  or  resiliency  unsurpassed.  They 
have  a  rather  finer  bottom  than  most  wools  of  Class  III,  hence  the 
noil  has  greater  value. 

South  American  wools  of  Class  III  are  usually  shipped  in  the 
unwashed  condition,  although  some  lots  have  been  washed  both  in 
South  America  and  other  places. 

The  Extent  to  Which  These  Wools  A»e  Utilized  in  Fabrics 

Other  Than  Rugs  or  Carpets. 

Certain  wools  of  Class  III  are  principally  used  in  the  manufacture 
of  low-grade  felt  goods.  It  has  already  been  mentioned  that  Bokhara 
wools  are  imported  almost  entirely  for  the  manufacture  of  felt  boots. 
These  felt  boots  are  a  low-grade  rough  article,  which  requires  a  strong 
coarse  wool,  yet  one  that  felts  readily — to  make  a  thick  weather-re- 
sisting fabric.    Bokhara  wool  has  been  found  the  most  suitable  on 


p 

III. 
* 

7 


I 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


437 


account  of  its  answering  everj  requirement,  and  being  at  the  same 
time,  low  priced.  With  this  is  used  Khorassan  wool  and  some  low- 
grade  East  India  wools. 

Of  the  same  materials  are  produced  coarse  "Saddle"  and  other 
low-grade  felts  and  also  some  common  horse  coverings  or  blankets. 
There  is  probably  1,000,000  to  1,500,000  pounds  of  Class  III  wools 
sold  yearly  for  these  purposes. 

Strictly  speaking,  all  wools  can  be  used  in  the  manufacture  of 
fabrics  for  clothing  purposes,  and  in  fact,  they  are  so  used  and  used 
largely  in  Europe  and  Asia.  But  the  cloths  and  blankets  that  are 
there  made  from  carpet  wools  are  grades  lower  than  those  usually  sold 
in  this  country. 

The  coat  of  the  Russian  peasant  made  from  Calmuc  wools  and  cow 
hair  or  the  blanket  of  the  English  laborer  made  from  coarse  East 
India  wool  and  cotton,  are  considerably  below  commonly  accepted 
quality  standards  in  America,  In  fact,  the  use  of  Class  III  wools  in 
fabrics  manufactured  for  clothing  purposes  is  commonly  restricted 
to  a  small  percentage  of  the  total  quantity  of  wool  manufactured  into 
these  fabrics  to  be  worn  by  American  men  or  women. 

The  use  of  a  carpet  wool  in  woolen  or  worsted  cloth  is  usually  the 
result  of  fashion.  When  cheviots  or  homespuns  or  similar  coarse 
fibered  goods  are  in  fashion,  the  manufacturer  of  these  goods  must  of 
necessity  mix  in  a  certain  percentage  of  the  kempy  rough  wools  of 
Clajss  III  to  produce  the  needed  effect.  It  can  not  be  obtained  from 
any  domestic  wool  or  from  any  foreign  wools  of  Class  I  or  Class  II  and 
recourse  must  therefore  be  had  to  Class  III  wools  which  give  the  de- 
sired results  where  blended  in  limited  quantity  with  wools  of  better 
grade. 

^  The  wools  of  Class  III  diverted  to  this  use  are  also  principally  used 
m  and  are  absolutely  required  for  the  manufacture  of  carpets.  The 
proportion  or  extent  to  which  any  are  diverted  from  the  manufacture 
of  carpet  and  rugs  is  not  easy  to  estimate. 

It  can  be  stated,  however,  that  although  some  Class  III  wool  is 
used  by  the  manufacturers  of  this  country,  the  total  amount  so  used 
even  during  the  vears  when  fashion  has  caused  these  wools  to  be  in 
demand,  is  small  in  comparison  to  the  total  quantity  imported. 
There  IS  no  special  wool  in  Class  III  that  can  be  said  to  go  regularly 
mto  this  grade  of  goods.  Different  manufacturers  experiment  with 
different  wools.  Each  one  has  his  own  idea  as  to  whut  will  best 
produce  an  imitation  of  the  Scotch  cheviot  or  Irish  homespun. 

There  is  very  Uttle  wool  of  Class  III  now  raised  in  the  United  States. 

Iwenty-five  years  ago  there  were  6,000,000  or  7,000,000  pounds  of 
wool  of  a  carpet  grade  grown  m  some  of  the  Western  States  and  Terri- 
tories, but.it  has  been  estimated  that  not  more  than  a  half  million 
pounds  of  this  domestic  wool  is  now  sold  annually  to  carpet  mills* 


438 


BEPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOABB  Olf  SCHEDULE  K. 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON"  SCHEDULE  K. 


l\ 


439 


Country. 


Europe: 

Great  Britain. 


Ireland.. 
Portugal . 


Spain. 


France... 
Germany. 
Austria. . . 


Italy 

Greece 

Iceland 

Turkey  in  Eu 
rope  and  Bal 
kan  States. 


Bnasla. 


Asia: 

Russia. 


Afghanistan 

Persia 


Chinese  or  East- 
em  Turke- 
stan. 

Mongolia 


Asia  Minor,  or 
Anatolia. 


Cyprus. 
Syria... 


Mesopotamia... 


Name. 


Scotch  black-laced  or 
highland  wool. 

Herdwick 

Haslock 


Black-faced 

Oporto 

Castel  Branco 

Pyrensan 

Castilian     (sundry 
small  varieties). 

Balearic 

Pyrenean 

Corsican 

Heide  or  heath 

German  skin 

Zackel  fleece 

Zackelskin 

Austrian  skin 

Bosnian , 

Herzegovinian 

Italian  coarse 

Sardinian 

Skin  wool 

Volo 

Iceland  wool 

Albanian  or  Salonica. . 


Servian 

Montenegrin 

Bulgarian 

Dalmatian 

Roumanian 

Kassapbatchia 

DonrJcoi 

Tscherskol  and  Kuban 

Savolga 

Moscow  Donskoi 

Crimean 

Bessarabian 


Description. 


Long  staple  strong  combhig. 


Georgian  Toucha 

Georgian  N ouka 

Tarycama  (mountain , 
Tarfcluy). 

Shousha , 

Camels  Hair 

Bokhara 

Turkestan 

Merv 

Transcasplan , 

Calmue 

Afghan , 

Kandahar  (see  India). 

Khorassan 

Karadi  (see  Mesopota- 
mia). 

Bushire  (see  Mesopo- 
tamia). 

Kashgar 


do 

Short   staple    filhng;    also    long 
staple  combing. 

Long  staple  strong  combing 

Good  staple  combmg 

....do 

Long  staple  combing 


.do. 
.do. 
.do. 


Medium  to  long  staple  combing. 

Short  staple  filling , 

Long  staple  strong  combing 

Short  filling  staple 

Long  staple  strong  combing 

Long  staple  combing 

Long  staple  straight  flbered 

Short  staple  filling 

Long  straight  flbered 

Combing  straight  flbered 

Medium  combing 


Long  strong  combing 

do 

....do 

.....do 

do.. 

Short  and  long  staple 

Long  staple  straight  flbered. 

"lAo'.lll""'.]]'.]'.'."'.'." 

do 

do 

Long  strong  combing 


Mongolian . . 
Manchurian. 
Angora 


Caramania. 
Samsoun. . . 

Yosgat 

Smyrna 

Yerii 

Bouldour.. 
Konleh.... 
Cyprus 


Aleppo 

Orfa 

Damascus. 
Jaffa. 


Medium  to  short  staple 

do 

Medium   to  short  staple  badly 
grown. 

do 

Varies 

Medium  staple,  mostly  colored 

Short  to  medium  staple 

do 

do 

Short  hairy 

Medium  to  long  staple 


Short  to  medium  staple. 


Medhun  staple  lustrous. 


Medium  staple  kempy 

...do 

Good  combing  sound  staple. 


.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 


Combmg  staple  very  kempy  and 
irregular. 

Good  combing  sound  staple 

do 

do. 

do 

Bagdad I  Good  sound  staple,  mostly  brown 

I     and  black. 
A wassi,  or  Mossoul I  Good  combing  sound  staple. 


Grade. 


Common  to  medium. 

Common. 

Common  to  medium. 

Common  grade. 
Medium  and  lustrous 
Good. 

Common  to  medium. 
Do. 

Do. 
Do. 

Do. 
Medium. 
Medium  to  good. 
Coarse. 

Do. 
Medium  to  good. 
Coarse. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 
Medium. 
Coarse. 

Medium  to  good. 
Good. 


Coarse. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 
Common  to  medium. 
Medium. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 
Coarse. 

High. 

Fair. 

Poor. 

Do. 
Varies. 
Fair. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 
Coarse. 
Medium. 

Good. 


Country. 

Name. 

Description, 

Grade. 

A  «la— Continued . 
Mesopotamia  .. 

Kerkouk 

Good  combing  sound  staple 

do 

C1CU\4^ 

Karadi,  or  Caracasch . . 
Bussorah 

Do 

Medium  to  long  staple 

Irregular. 

Bushire 

do 

India 

Joria 

Short  staple  filhng . . 

Very  coarse   to   very 

fine. 
Coarse  to  good. 

Medium  to  good. 
Fair  to  good. 
Do 

Vicanere 

Long  staple  combing  and  short 
staple  filling. 

Kandahar 

Khelat 

Short  to  medium  staple 

Packputan 

do 

Jessefmere 

do 

Do 

Marwar 

Short  hairy 

Very  coarse. 

Madras 

do....".. 

Thibet 

Medium  to  long  staple  combing 

Lontr  combine 

Medium. 
Do. 
Do 

China 

Sining 

Szechuen 

Medium  combins . 

"" 

Woosie 

Short  stanle 

Do 

BaU 

Medium  stanle  kemnv 

Coarse  to  fine. 
Varies. 

Do. 

Do 

Kinchow 

Medium  filling  staple  kempy 

do 

Koolun 

Liangchow 

do '.'.'.'.'.'. 

Yungchang 

do 

Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 

Paotze 

do 

Hsihtsui 

do 

^ 

Hada 

do 

Chentze 

do 

Hsiko 

do 

Afri/m 

Ngotze 

do !-"!"":":;;:;::: 

Egyptian 

Soudan 

Long  lustrous  combing 

Short  staple 

Medium. 
Common. 

South  America 

Valparaiso 

Long  sound  staple 

Cordova 

do 

Do. 

Irregular. 
Good. 

North  America: 
Mexico 

Mexican 

Irresular. 

United  States... 

Navajo 

Short  to  medium  stanle 

High. 


Fair. 

Common. 

Good. 

Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Poor. 

Good. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 

Do. 


t 


\ 


PART  11.  RAW  WOOLS -ADDENDA. 


SPECIAL  REPOKT  ON  TYPES  OF  BRITISH  SHEEP  AND 
COSTS  OF  MAINTENANCE— SHEEP  IN  CANADA. 


441 


BLANK  PAGE(S) 


LINCOLN  SHEARLING   RAM. 


TYPES  OP  BRITISH  SHEEP  AlTD  COST  OF  MAnTTEITAirCE. 

Next  in  importance  to  the  fine  merinos  in  the  world's  wool  supply 
are  the  so-called  "crossbreds  *'  that  figure  so  largely  in  the  Australasian 
and  South  American  clips;  light-conditioned,  useful  combing  wools 
shorn  from  a  dual-purpose  sheep  produced  by  the  mingling  of  the 
blood  of  the  famous  English  mutton  breeds  with  that  of  various 
merino  types.  The  British  breeds  have  influenced  the  wools  of  New 
Zealand,  Australia,  Argentina,  and  the  United  States  to  such  an 
extent  as  to  render  some  further  details  as  to  their  character  and  as 
to  the  manner  in  which  they  are  managed  in  their  native  land  of 
interest  to  all  who  desire  to  understand  clearly  the  basis  of  the 
United  States  tariff  classification  by  ''blood."  The  crossbreds 
not  only  figure  conspicuously  in  our  importations  under  Class  I,  but 
Class  II  of  the  existing  tariff  law  was  created  especially  to  establish 
the  terms  upon  which  the  straight  EngHsh  wools  in  their  uncrossed 
state  should  be  admitted. 

THE   PLACE   OF   SHEEP  HUSBANDRY   IN   GREAT   BRITAIN. 

The  agriculture  of  Great  Britain  is  peculiarly  based  on  sheep  farm- 
ing. There  are  several  reasons  for  this  fact;  the  moist,  mild  cHmate 
that  makes  grass  and  other  forage  crops  grow  well,  the  mildness  of 
winters  that  makes  it  practicable  to  keep  sheep  out  of  doors  and  on 
the  fields  all  winter^  and  the  fact  that  tne  country  is  so  old  and  far 
removed  from  a  virgin  condition  that  constant  thought  must  bo 
given  to  the  question  of  maintaining  fertihty  in  the  soils. 

As  a  rule,  sheep  are  most  numerous  in  England  on  soils  of  very 
moderate  natural  fertility.  On  some  farms  m  Yorkshire  the  cus- 
tom is  to  plow  to  a  depth  of  no  more  than  4  inches,  because  the  soil 
is  so  shallow.  There  sheep  are  folded  and  fed  on  the  land,  their  feet 
tread  it  down,  their  manures  drop  on  it^  and  the  result  is  that  the 
English  farmers  reap  harvests  far  exceedmg  the  average  crops  of  the 
Umted  States. 

The  cUmate  of  Great  Britain  is  very  favorable  to  the  sheep  industry. 
Mild  in  winter,  it  is  yet  ordinarily  cool  in  summer,  and  more  probably 
from  climatic  reasons  than  any  other  the  scourge  of  internal  para- 
sites is  not  so  much  felt  in  England  as  it  is  in  the  corn-belt  region 
of  the  United  States,  where  one  parasite,  the  stomach  worm,  has 
inflicted  disastrous  losses  and  prevented  the  heavy  stocking  seen  in 
the  Old  World.  This  destroyer  is  little  felt  in  Great  Brit^.  It  is 
a  parasite  thriving  in  warm  cHmates.  Wherever  Indian  com  grows 
there  is  the  stomach-worm  parasite. 

Sheep  farming  in  Great  Britain  is  conducted  with  two  thoughts 
uppermost— the  production  of  mutton  and  the  upbuilding  of  the  land. 
Wool  is  also  given  attention,  but  is  always  a  secondary  matter,  as 
the  profit  comes  from  mutton.    The  Englishman  is,  however,  a  close 


I 


KENT  OR  ROMNEY  MARSH    RAM. 


INTENTIONAL  SECOND  EXPOSURE 


LINCOLN   SHEARLING   RAM. 


KENT  OR   ROMNEY   MARSH    RAM. 


TYPES  OF  BRITISH  SHEEP  AND  COST  OF  MAHTTENANCE. 

Next  in  importance  to  the  fine  merinos  in  the  world's  wool  supply 
are  the  so-called  "crossbreds  "  that  figure  so  largely  in  the  Australasian 
and  South  American  clips;  light-conditioned,  useful  combing  wools 
shorn  from  a  dual-purpose  sheep  produced  by  the  mingling  of  the 
blood  of  the  famous  English  mutton  breeds  with  that  of  various 
merino  types.  The  British  breeds  have  influenced  the  wools  of  New 
Zealand,  Australia,  Argentina,  and  the  United  States  to  such  an 
extent  as  to  render  some  further  details  as  to  their  character  and  as 
to  the  manner  in  which  they  are  managed  in  their  native  land  of 
interest  to  all  who  desire  to  understand  clearly  the  basis  of  the 
United  States  tariff  classification  by  ''blood."  The  crossbreds 
not  only  figure  conspicuously  in  our  importations  under  Class  I,  but 
Class  II  of  the  existing  tariff  law  was  created  especially  to  establish 
the  terms  upon  which  the  straight  EngHsh  wools  in  tlieir  uncrossed 
state  should  be  admitted. 


THE   PLACE   OF   SHEEP  HUSBANDRY   IN   GREAT   BRITAIN. 

The  agriculture  of  Great  Britain  is  peculiarly  based  on  sheep  farm- 
ing. There  are  several  reasons  for  this  fact;  the  moist,  mild  cHmate 
that  makes  grass  and  other  forage  crops  grow  well,  the  mildness  of 
winters  that  makes  it  practicable  to  keep  sheep  out  of  doors  and  on 
the  fields  all  winter^  and  the  fact  that  the  country  is  so  old  and  far 
removed  from  a  virgin  condition  that  constant  thought  must  be 
given  to  the  question  of  maintaining  fertility  in  the  soils. 

As  a  rule,  sheep  are  most  numerous  in  England  on  soils  of  very 
moderate  natural  fertility.  On  some  farms  in  Yorkshire  the  cus- 
tom is  to  plow  to  a  depth  of  no  more  than  4  inches,  because  the  soil 
is  so  shallow.  There  sheep  are  folded  and  fed  on  the  land,  their  feet 
tread  it  down,  their  manures  drop  on  it,  and  the  result  is  that  the 
English  farmers  reap  harvests  far  exceeding  the  average  crops  of  the 
Umted  States. 

The  cUmate  of  Great  Britain  is  very  favorable  to  the  sheep  industry. 
Mild  in  winter,  it  is  yet  ordinarily  cool  in  summer,  and  more  probablv 
from  cKmatic  reasons  than  any  other  the  scourge  of  internal  para- 
sites is  not  so  much  felt  in  England  as  it  is  in  the  corn-belt  region 
of  the  United  States,  where  one  parasite,  the  stomach  worm,  has 
inflicted  disastrous  losses  and  prevented  the  heavy  stocking  seen  in 
the  Old  World.  This  destroyer  is  Httle  felt  in  Great  Britam.  It  is 
a  parasite  thriving  in  warm  cHmates.  Wherever  Indian  com  grows 
there  is  the  stomach-worm  parasite. 

Sheep  farming  in  Great  Britain  is  conducted  with  two  thoughts 
uppermost— the  production  of  mutton  and  the  upbuilding  of  the  land. 
Wool  IS  also  given  attention,  but  is  always  a  secondary  matter,  as 
the  profit  comes  from  mutton.    The  Englishman  is,  however,  a  close 


444 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARB  ON   SCHEDU1.E  K. 


student  of  breeding  and  has  produced  many  types  of  sheep,  all  excel- 
lent in  their  way,  while  some  have  wonderful  value. 

The  following  is  a  brief  description  of  the  leading  breeds  of  British 
origin: 

THE   BLACK-FACED  HIGHLAND   SHEEP. 

These  sheep  inhabit  the  high,  heather-covered  mountains  of  Scot- 
land. They  are  half  wild,  Hving  always  on  their  own  special  hills, 
belonging  with  the  land  and  passing  with  the  land  under  change  of 
tenants.  They  have  nearly  the  instmcts  of  the  deer,  eat  heather  and 
grass,  and  are  better  suited  to  the  mountains  on  which  they  were 
evolved  than  any  other  breed  that  has  been  tested  there.  They  fat- 
ten well,  their  mutton  is  good  and  in  demand  at  prices  somewhat 
above  other  and  larger  breeds,  their  wool  is  long  and  coarse  and 
enters  the  markets  of  the  United  States  under  Class  III. 

Blackface  sheep  are  seldom  fed  either  in  winter  or  sunamer,  but 
live  altogether  in  the  open  and  on  the  hills.  Their  lambs  are  often 
taken  to  the  lowlands  and  fed  during  their  first  winter,  otherwise 
many  of  them  would  perish.  The  blackface  ewe  is  quite  generally 
bred  to  a  ram  of  one  of  the  heavier  breeds,  a  Border  Leicester  or 
Oxford,  or  sometimes  a  Cheviot  Shropshire.  These  crossbred  lambs 
fatten  better  and  attain  larger  size  than  the  pure-bred  blackfaces. 
If  kept  on  the  lowlands  the  crossbred  ewes  are  often  retained  and 
again  bred  to  mutton  rams.  If  they  are  to  go  to  the  heather  the 
pure  blackface  blood  is  kept,  since  these  are  hardier  and  thrive 
better  under  exposure  and  poor  "picking"  than  the  crossbreds. 
Blackface  sheep  have  a  number  of  times  been  exported  to  the  United 
States  and  South  America,  but  thus  far  they  have  never  been  quite 
a  success  off  their  native  heath.  They  shear  from  3  to  7  pounds  per 
head,  depending  on  sex,  age,  and  condition.  The  wool  is  coarse  and 
is  largely  made  into  carpets.  Considerable  blackface  wool  comes 
direct  to  the  United  States  from  Scotland,  and  presumably  most  of 
it  is  there  used  in  carpet  manufacture.  A  small  amount  is  used, 
mixed  with  other  wools,  in  making  ' ' tWeeds."  The  ' 'Harris  tweeds/ 
made  usually  on  hand  looms  on  islands  off  the  Scottish  coast,  are  m 
part  at  least  woven  from  this  wool. 

SCOTCH  CROSSBREDS. 

In  Scotland,  in  the  lower  lying  land  and  in  the  foothills,  are  great 
numbei-s  of  crossbreds.  These  are  usually  sheep  having  a  mixture 
of  Cheviot  and  Leicester  or  Border  Leicester  blood.  They  are  more 
or  less  of  a  Cheviot  type,  and  are  sheep  of  medium  size,  with  good 
forms,  hardy,  prolific,  readily  fattened  on  grass  or  with  grain,  and 
profitable  in  their  region.  While  these  sheep  are  commonly  termed 
'* crossbreds"  yet  very  often  they  are  a  true  type,  well  fixed.  They 
produce  a  type  of  wool  used  in  making  "cheviot"  cloths.  The  fibers 
of  this  wool  are  from  3  inches  to  5  inches  long.  The  wool  varies  con- 
siderably in  different  districts,  but  is  of  such  repute  that  it  is  bought 
from  year  to  year  by  British  manufacturers  to  be  made  into  high- 
class  tweeds. 

Coming  southward,  we  find  the  hills  where  Uve  the  pure-bred  Chev- 
iots. In  southern  Scotland  there  are  great  numbers  of  them,  and 
they  are  seen  in  some  of  the  northern  counties  of  England  as  well. 


BLACKFACE   MOUNTAIN    RAM. 


4 


CHEVIOT   RAM. 


1 


■intentional  second  exposure 


jt,\t,jt 


HEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  OX   SCHEDULE  K. 


student  of  breeding  and  has  produced  many  types  of  sheep,  all  excel- 
lent in  their  way,  while  some  have  wonderful  value.  ^  -„  -.-  u 
The  following  is  a  brief  description  of  the  leadmg  breeds  of  Britisii 

origin: 

THE    BLACK-FACED   HIGHLAND   SHEEP. 

These  sheep  inhabit  the  high,  heather-covered  mountains  of  Scot- 
land. They  are  half  wild,  hving  always  on  their  own  special  hills, 
belonging  with  the  land  and  passing  with  the  land  under  change  of 
tenants.  They  have  nearly  the  instincts  of  the  deer,  eat  heather  and 
grass,  and  are  better  suited  to  the  mountains  on  which  they  were 
evolved  than  any  other  breed  that  has  been  tested  there.  They  fat- 
ten well,  their  mutton  is  good  and  in  demand  at  prices  somewhat 
above  other  and  larger  breeds,  their  wool  is  long  and  coarse  and 
entei-s  the  markets  of  the  United  States  under  Class  III. 

Blackface  sheep  are  seldom  fed  either  in  winter  or  summer,  but 
live  altogether  in  the  open  and  on  the  hills.  Their  lambs  are  often 
taken  to  the  lowlands  and  fed  during  their  first  winter,  otherwise 
many  of  them  would  perish.  The  blackface  ewe  is  quite  generally 
bred  to  a  ram  of  one  of  the  heavier  breeds,  a  Border  Leicester  or 
Oxford,  or  sometimes  a  Cheviot  Shropshire.  These  crossbred  lambs 
fatten  better  and  attain  larger  size  than  the  pure-bred  blackfaces. 
If  kept  on  the  lowlands  the  crossbred  ewes  are  often  retained  and 
again  bred  to  mutton  rams.  If  they  are  to  go  to  the  heather  the 
pure  blackface  blood  is  kept,  since  these  are  hardier  and  thrive 
better  under  exposure  and  poor  ''picking"  than  the  crossbreds. 
Blackface  sheep  have  a  number  of  times  been  exported  to  the  Umted 
States  and  South  America,  but  thus  far  they  have  never  been  quite 
a  success  off  their  native  heath.  They  shear  from  3  to  7  pounds  per 
head,  depending  on  sex,  age,  and  condition.  The  wool  is  coarse  and 
is  largely  made  into  carpets.  Considerable  blackface  wool  comes 
direct  to  the  United  States  from  Scotland,  and  presumably  most  of 
it  is  there  used  in  carpet  manufacture.  A  small  amount  is  used, 
mixed  with  other  wools,  in  making  ' '  tAveeds."  The  ' '  Harris  tweeds, 
made  usually  on  hand  looms  on  islands  off  the  Scottish  coast,  are  in 
part  at  least  woven  from  this  wool. 

SCOTCH   CROSSBREDS. 

In  Scotland,  in  the  lower  lying  land  and  in  the  foothills,  are  great 
Bumbers  of  crossbreds.  These  are  usually  sheep  havmg  a  mixture 
of  Cheviot  and  Leicester  or  Border  Leicester  blood.  They  are  more 
or  less  of  a  Cheviot  type,  and  are  sheep  of  medium  size,  with  good 
forms,  hardy,  prolific,  readily  fattened  on  grass  or  with  gram,  and 
profitable  in  their  region.  While  these  sheep  are  commonly  tenned 
"crossbreds''  yet  very  often  they  are  a  true  type,  well  fixed.  They 
produce  a  type  of  wool  used  in  making  "  cheviot "  cloths.  1  he  libers 
of  this  wool  are  from  3  inches  to  5  inches  long.  The  wool  varies  con- 
siderably in  different  districts,  but  is  of  such  repute  that  it  is  bought 
from  year  to  year  by  British  manufacturers  to  be  made  mto  high- 

€*lftss  tw^eeds 

Coming  southward,  we  find  the  hills  where  five  the  pure-bred  Chev- 
iots. In  southern  Scotland  there  are  great  numbers  of  them,  and 
they  are  seen  in  some  of  the  northern  counties  of  England  as  well. 


BLACKFACE   MOUNTAIN   RAM, 


CHEVIOT   RAM. 


BEPORT  OF  TAEIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


445 


P 


They  are  a  medium-sized  sheep,  hardy,  good  to  fatten  on  grass,  and 
produce  a  soft  wool  of  3  to  4  inch  staple  used  in  making  cheviot 
cloths.  The  breed  is  not  at  all  in  use  in  South  America  and  little  in 
the  United  States. 

THE   LONGWOOLS. 

There  are  a  number  of  breeds  in  Great  Britain  producing  what  may 
be  termed  "long  wool."  This  is  not  a  wool-trade  term,  but  is  used 
as  a  classification  for  the  sheep.  The  principal  breeds  are  Leicester, 
Lincoln,  Cotswold,  and  Ronmey  Marsh,  or  Kent. 

The  Leicester  is  one  of  the  oldest  of  improved  breeds  in  England, 
a  large  sheep,  standing  well  up,  with  white  face  and  legs,  as  have  all 
the  longwools,  and  are  easily  fattened.  The  Leicester  has  a  long, 
lustrous  (shining),  curling  wool,  often  12  inches  in  length.  It  is  a 
coarse  wool,  but  is  used  for  ladies'  dress  goods,  braids,  linings,  bright 
serges,  etc.  The  Leicester  is  notable  chiefly  for  what  its  blood  has 
done,  mingled  with  that  of  other  breeds,  to  make  the  Border  Leicester 
of  Scotland,  to  help  make  the  Romney  Marsh,  and  perhaps  to  mingle 
with  the  Lincoln,  though  not  in  recent  years.  At  present  the  Lei- 
cester is  not  so  often  seen  in  Great  Britain  or  elsewhere  as  some  of  the 
other  longwools.  -It  is  worth  mentioning,  however,  that,  mingled 
with  blood  of  Soissonnais  merino  in  France,  the  Leicester  has  created 
the  one  breed  of  true  and  fixed  type  having  blood  of  both  merino  and 
Enghsh  sheep,  the  Dishley  menno,  the  prevaiHng  mutton  sheep  of 
France  and  one  of  the  best  types  of  mutton  sheep  in  the  world. 

Leicesters  have  been  in  great  use  in  Canada  and  to  some  extent  on 
our  own  ranges  of  the  West.  At  present  they  are  overshadowed  by 
other  breeds  of  similar  character. 

THE    COTSWOLD. 

A  sheep  much  like  the  Leicester,  large  of  size,  splendidly  fleeced 
with  wool  not  so  lustrous  as  that  of  the  Lincoln,  the  Cotswold  is  in 
considerable  use  in  the  western  part  of  the  United  States  for  cross- 
breeding on  grade  merino  ewes.  The  result  of  this  cross  is  good,  as 
the  lambs  are  large  and  fatten  readily,  and  the  crossbred  wool  is 
abundant  and  of  good  quality.  Utah  and  other  western  ranges  have 
many  Cotswold  and  Cotswold  crossbred  sheep.  Many  Cotswold  rams 
are  exported  from  Canada  and  England  for  use  in  the  western  United 
States.  The  breed  has  been  a  useful  one  in  the  United  States  and  is 
doubtless  destined  to  find  a  continued  field  of  usefulness  in  its  peculiar 
work  of  crossbreeding  with  range  merinos. 

THE   LINCOLN. 

The  Lincoln  is  one  of  the  largest  of  sheep,  perhaps  the  largest  sheep 
in  the  world.  It  is  very  heavuy  wooled.  The  wool  is  long,  often  12 
inches  or  more,  and  is  lustrous  and  shining.  It  is  used  for  ladies' 
dress  goods,  bright  serges,  braids,  etc.,  and  for  coarse  goods.  The 
lincom  pure  bred  has  a  beautiful  fleece,  too  coarse  for  any  but  a 
rather  limited  ran^e  of  uses,  and  its  great  and  special  field  is  cross- 
breeding with  merino  flocks  in  South  America,  Australasia,  and  other 
parts  of  the  sheep-breeding  world. 

In  South  America  especiallv  is  there  a  great  demand  for  Lincoln 
rams.    The  South  Americans  have  paid  frequently  as  high  as  $5,000 


II 


446 


BEPORT   OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SOHEDUI/E  K. 


I 


each  and  even  as  much  as  $6,000  for  a  ram.  There  are  immense 
flocks  of  pure-bred  Lincolns  in  Argentina  and  Uruguay  whose  rams 
are  produced  for  distribution  to  the  estancias.  There  are  also 
estancias  with  many  thousands  of  crossbreds  of  so  high  a  grade  that 
they  are  practically  pure-bred  Lincobis.     ^^  .     ,  ^  .    . 

The  Lincoln  is  not  bred  much  in  the  Umted  States  east  of  the 
range  country,  but  many  Lmcolns  are  in  use  on  the  western  ranches. 
It  is  maintained  that  the  mingling  of  Lincoln  and  menno  blood  results 
in  sheep  shearing  the  heaviest  possible  chps  of  the  most  desirable  wool. 

THE   ROMNEY   MARSH. 

Sheep  in  Great  Britain  are  very  local  in  their  placing.  Romneys 
come  prmcipally  from  Kent.  The  "marshes"  are  not  wet  lands, 
though  low  lying  and  often  kept  dry  by  pumping.  The  "marsh 
breed  has  been  developed  on  these  rich,  drained  pastures.  As  a  rule 
Romney  Marsh  sheep  fatten  on  grass  alone.  This  fact,  no  doubt,  is 
one  of  the  potent  factors  in  their  reputed  hardmess  and  desu-ability 
in  crossbreeding  with  sheep  on  the  ranges  of  South  America  and  the 

farms  of  New  Zealand.         ,  .      .    .,  .,      t  •       i         x       -^ 

The  Romney  Marsh  breed  is  similar  to  the  Lmcoln,  not  quite  so 
massive,  and  with  fleece  not  so  long  or  wool  so  lustrous.  Still  it  is  a 
type  of  wool  much  liked  in  Germany,  and  German  wool  buyers  m 
South  America  always  favor  it.  The  Romney  crossbred  wools,  from 
grade  merino  ewes,  are  especially  liked  on  the  Continent. 

More  and  more  use  of  Romney  rams  ia  made  m  Tierra  del  t  uego, 
Patagonia,  Argentina,  Uruguay,  and  other  South  American  regions. 
In  New  Zealand  these  sheep  are  also  popular,  and  Romney  ranas  are 
sent  in  considerable  numbers  from  that  country  to  Patagoma.  South 
American  buyers  have  paid  large  sums  for  Romney  rams.  In  the 
United  States  the  Romney  Marsh  breed  has  only  recently  obtained 

a  slender  foothold.  ,       .    ,  ,        •       x    i  • 

It  is  said  of  the  Romney  Marsh  sheep  that  it  bears  heavier  stocking 
on  the  land  than  most  other  breeds,  endures  cold  and  wet  better, 
fattens  without  grain,  on  grass  alone,  and  that  the  result  of  crossing 
Romney  rams  on  grade  merino  ewes  is  to  give  a  crossbred  fleece  smiilar 
to  that  of  the  crossbred  Lincoln,  very  useful  and  of  good  weight. 

OTHER  TYPES   OF  LONGWOOLS. 

There  are,  in  lesser  numbers,  in  Great  Britain  various  types  of 
longwool  sheep— the  Devons,  Dartmoors,  Irish  lowlands,  lonks, 
Wenslydales,  and  others.  They  do  not  need  description  here  as, 
although  some  of  them  are  found  in  small  numbers  outside  their 
native  habitat,  none  of  them  enters  largely  mto  the  worid's  wool  pro- 
duction. 

THE   DOWNS. 

The  mutton  sheep  of  the  worid,  par  excellence,  are  the  Downs. 
These  are  spread  all  over  central  and  southern  England,  and  are  seen 
also  wherever  English-speaking  men  have  gone.  Downs  have 
usually  brown,  gray,  or  black  faces  (the  Ry elands  are  white  faced), 
brown  or  black  legs,  and  wool  of  moderate  length,  rather  fine,  soft, 
and  useful  for  hosiery,  flannels,  and  in  its  longer  types  for  cloth. 


COTSWOLD  SHEARLING  RAM. 


OXFORD   DOWN    RAM. 


INTENTIONAL  SECOND  EXPOSURE 


446 


BEPOBT   OP   TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE   K. 


each,  and  even  as  much  as  $6,000  for  a  ram.  There  are  immense 
flocks  of  pure-bred  Lincolns  in  Argentma  and  Uruguay  whose  rams 
are  produced  for  distribution  to  the  estancias.  There  are  also 
estancias  with  many  thousands  of  crossbreds  of  so  high  a  grade  that 
they  are  practically  pure-bred  Lincolns.     ^^  .     ,  ^  .    . 

The  Lincoln  is  not  bred  much  in  the  United  States  east  of  the 
range  country,  but  many  Lincolns  are  in  use  on  the  western  ranches. 
It  is  maintained  that  the  mingling  of  Lincoln  and  merino  blood  results 
in  sheep  shearing  the  heaviest  possible  clips  of  the  most  desirable  wool. 

THE   ROMNEY   MARSH. 

Sheep  in  Great  Britain  are  verv  local  in  their  placmg.  Romneys 
come  principally  from  Kent.  The  "marshes"  are  not  wet  lands, 
though  low  lying  and  often  kept  dry  by  pumping.  The  "marsh" 
breed  has  been  developed  on  these  rich,  drained  pastures.  As  a  rule 
Romney  Marsh  sheep  fatten  on  grass  alone.  This  fact,  no  doubt,  is 
one  of  the  potent  factors  in  their  reputed  hardiness  and  desirabihty 
in  crossbreeding  with  sheep  on  the  ranges  of  South  America  and  the 

farms  of  New  Zealand.  i      t  •       i 

The  Romney  Marsh  breed  is  similar  to  the  Lmcoln,  not  quite  so 
massive,  and  with  fleece  not  so  long  or  wool  so  lustrous.  Still  it  is  a 
type  of  wool  much  liked  in  Germany,  and  German  wool  buyers  in 
South  America  always  favor  it.  The  Ronmey  crossbred  wools,  from 
grade  merino  ewes,  are  especially  liked  on  the  Continent. 

More  and  more  use  of  Romney  rams  is  made  in  Tierra  del  Fuego, 
Patagonia,  Argentina,  Uruguay,  and  other  South  American  regions. 
In  New  Zealand  these  sheep  are  also  popular,  and  Romney  rams  are 
sent  in  considerable  numbers  from  that  country  to  Patagoma.  South 
American  buyers  have  paid  large  sums  for  Romney  rams.  In  the 
United  States  the  Romney  Marsh  breed  has  only  recently  obtained 

a  slender  foothold.  •       ^    i  • 

It  is  said  of  the  Romney  Marsh  sheep  that  it  bears  heavier  stockmg 
on  the  land  than  most  other  breeds,  endures  cold  and  wet  better, 
fattens  without  grain,  on  grass  alone,  and  that  the  result  of  crossing 
Romney  rams  on  grade  merino  ewes  is  to  give  a  crossbred  fleece  similar 
to  that'of  the  crossbred  Lincoln,  very  useful  and  of  good  weight. 

OTHER  TYPES  OF   LONGWOOLS. 

There  are,  in  lesser  numbers,  in  Great  Britain  various  types  of 
longwool  sheep— the  Devons,  Dartmoors,  Irish  lowlands,  lonks, 
Wenslydales,  and  others.  They  do  not  need  description  here  as, 
although  some  of  them  are  found  in  small  numbers  outside  their 
nativehabitat,  none  of  them  enters  largely  into  the  world's  wool  pro- 
duction. 

THE   DOWNS. 

The  mutton  sheep  of  the  world,  par  excellence,  are  the  Downs. 
These  are  spread  all  over  central  and  southern  England,  and  are  seen 
also  wherever  English-speaking  men  have  gone.  Downs  have 
usually  brown,  gray,  or  black  faces  (the  Ryelands  are  white  faced), 
brown  or  black  legs,  and  wool  of  moderate  length,  rather  fine,  soft, 
and  useful  for  hosiery,  flannels,  and  in  its  longer  types  for  cloth. 


%>^'  '%1X 


COTSWOLD  SHEARLING  RAM. 


OXFORD   DOWN   RAM. 


samm 


KMHMi 


ma 


BEPORT  OF  TAEIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


TCTt  i 


Some  of  the  shorter  Down  wools  are  blended  into  cheviot  fabrics. 
The  Southdown  and  Suffolk  sheep  have  wools  of  the  finest  fiber  of  any 
in  England.    Each  is  a  short  staple. 


THE   SOUTHDOWN. 


This  is  one  of  the  oldest  breeds  in  England  and  one  of  the  purest, 
and  is  one  of  the  few  not  made  up  by  a  combination  of  other 
breeds.  Southdowns  are  small,  rotund,  beautifully  formed,  easily 
fattened  sheep  well  known  in  America.  Southdown  mutton  is  the 
standard  of  the  world.  Southdown  wool  is  of  high  quality,  though 
somewhat  lacking  in  quantity.  No  sheep  fattens  more  easily  or 
makes  better  mutton.  The  Southdown  holds  its  own  in  England  and 
in  the  eastern  States  of  America.  Because  of  its  light  shearmg  it  has 
not  become  a  favorite  with  woolgrowers. 

The  Southdown  has  helped  markedly  in  producing  other  breeds, 
notably  the  Shropshire,  Hampshire,  and  probably  to  some  extent  the 
Oxford  Down.  Southdowns  at  present  contribute  a  comparatively 
small  part  of  the  wool  of  the  world. 


THE    SUFFOLK. 


The  Suffolk,  although  similar  to  the  Southdown,  is  larger  and  has 
an  especially  black  head  and  legs.  It  is  readily  fattened.  Suffolk 
lambs  fatten  quickl^r  on  grass  with  a  httle  grain.  Southdowns  and 
Suffolks  alike  are  ouite  generally  grown  on  grass  in  England,  though 
in  hurdles  the  lambs  may  find  extra  food.  The  wool  of  the  Suffolk 
is  short,  fine,  and  good,  but  it  is  not  a  heavy  shearing  sheep.  This 
fact,  perhaps,  has  militated  against  its  extended  introduction  into  the 
United  States.  The  Southdown  is  seen  to  some  extent  in  South 
America,  the  Suffolk  little  if  at  all.  A  sheep  similar  and  with  us  more 
in  use  is 

THE   HAMPSHIRE. 

The  Hampshire  is  one  of  the  largest  of  the  Downs.  It  is  a  lai^e- 
boned,  squarely  built  sheep,  with  black  head  and  legs,  native  to  tke 
region  about  Salisbury,  and  having  spread  over  more  or  less  of  south 
central  England. 

Hampshu-es  in  England  are  nearly  always  kept  in  hurdles  or  yards 
made  with  movable  fencing.  These  are  moved  daily.  By  this  means 
the  sheep  have  always  clean,  fresh  pasturage.  They  are  hurdled  on 
sown  crops,  clovers,  vetches,  turnips,  or  grass.  With  Hampshires  it 
IS  the  more  rapid  growth  and  early  development  of  the  lamb  that 
brings  the  profit.  Everything  is  done  with  reference  to  the  lamb.  A 
hurdle  newly  placed  wm  first  be  occupied  by  the  lambs,  which  enter 
It  through  narrow  opemngs  or  '' creeps."  The  ewes  eat  at  "second 
table,  or  on  a  spot  where  the  lambs  fed  the  previous  day.  The  lambs 
are  also  highlv  fed  with  grain  or  "cake"  (American  Unseed  or  cotton- 
seed meal  cake,  usuallv).  Thus  forced  the  lambs  make  exceedingly 
rapid  growth  and  early  become  very  fat.  From  time  to  time  the 
fattest  are  taken  out  and  sent  away  to  market.  The  ewes,  too,  are 
fattened  while  yet  in  their  prime  and  sent  to  market.  Usually  they 
bear  only  three  or  four  crops  of  lambs.  Hampshires,  Southdowns, 
Dorsets,  some  Oxfords,  Suffolks,  and  Shropshires  are  handled  thus  in 
hurdles.    Sheep  grazed  in  hurdles  have  no  shelter  and  in  winter 


448 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


their  chief  food  is  turnips,  eaten  more  or  less  where  they  grow  though 
if  it  is  very  wet  turnips  may  be  pulled  and  shced  and  red  to  tnem. 
This  is  the  famous '^hurdling  system"  of  England.  It  is  done  on  a 
peculiar  type  of  soil,  inclined  to  be  sandy  or  chalky  and  of  very  mod- 
erate fertility,  but  by  means  of  the  manure  dropned  on  the  land 
extraordinary  crops  are  secured,  as  hidi  as  40  to  50  bushels  of  wheat 
and  from  60  to  85  bushels  of  oats  to  the  acre. 

A  somewhat  similar  system  of  management  is  seen  in  J  ranee,  varied 
bv  use  a  part  of  the  time  of  immense  sheep  bams     Sheep  barns  are 
not  used  to  any  great  extent  in  England.    The  Hampshire  and  its 
treatment  is  mentioned  thus  fully  because  a  knowledge  of  the  hur- 
dUng  system  is  essential  to  any  comprehension  of  the  sheep  husbandry 
of  En^and.     By  means  of  sheep  and  their  manures  immense  areas  of 
English  soil  are  made  very  productive  which  without  this  manage- 
ment would  be  little  more  than  wastes.     The  Hampshnre  is  unportant 
to  us  in  America,  too,  because  there  is  use  for  a  considerable  number  of 
Hampshire  rams  on  our  western  ranges  to  niake  crossbred  lambs  tor 
the  butchers.     There  is,  perhaps,  no  better  breed  than  this  for  that 
purpose,  provided  the  lambs  are  well  fed  from  the  tune  of  birth,    l^is 
a  breed  that  needs  good  care  and  feed.     Hampslnre  wool  is  a  desu-able 
wool  and  Hampshire  crossbred  wool,  from  menno  foundations,  is 
desirable,  although  not  so  long  as  the  Lincoln  crossbred  wool.     Ihe 
wool  of  the  Hampshire  sheep  brings  near  the  top  p^e  m  England 
(27  to  28  cents  per  pound,  fleece  washed,  December,  191  o;.     ine 
Hampshire  is  not  a  sheep  developed  with  especial  thought  of  wool  pro- 
duction, but  noted  for  its  ability  to  produce  good  mutton  cheaply  and 
abundantly.    It  is  a  made  breed,  of  comparatively  recent  origin,  one 
of  its  component  parts  being  the  Southdown,  and  the  character  of 
its  wool  is  not  unfike  that  of  the  Southdown,  though  coarser.     In 
England  Southdown  wool  usually  outsells  Hampshire  wool  about  2 
cents  per  pound. 

THE  OXFOBD  DOWN. 

Somewhat  like  the  Hampshire  Down  is  the  Oxford,  a  large  sheep,  of 
strong  bone  and  good  feeding  powers  but  with  a  loiter  fleece  than 
the  ETampshire.  There  is  an  infusion  of  long-wool  blooJ  m  the  Oxford 
sheep.  This  accounts  for  the  character  of  the  wooL  It  is  a  sneep 
quitr  largely  used  in  cross  breeding.  In  Scotland  Oxford  rams  on 
Cheviot  ancl  other  types  of  ewes  seem  to  give  exceUent  results.  In 
America,  too,  the  Oxford  ram  on  the  ranges  gives  ^^rossbreds  that 
are  desimble  both  for  wool  and  mutton.  Aside  from  the  greater 
length  of  the  wool  there  is  much  similanty  between  the  Oxford  and 
HaSipshire  breeds,  so  that  what  has  been  s^id  of  the  Hampf  ires  may 
be  taken  to  apply  rather  closely  to  the  Oxford  sheep.  It  will  no  doubt 
play  an  important  part  in  the  development  of  our  western  sheep 
mdustry. 

THE    SHROPSHIRE. 

This  also  is  a  Down,  or  so  classed— America's  favorite  of  all  the 
British  types.  It  is  a  composite  breed  beanng  the  blood  of  the 
Southdo^and  of  other  breecfs,  but  so  perfectly  are  the  bloods  blended 
to-day  that  the  Shropshire  is  a  type  to  itself.  Shropshire  sheep^^^ 
the  most  widely  distrTbut^d  of  the  English  breeds.  They  are  claimed 
to  be  the  great  ''farm  sheep"  of  the  worid--a  rare  combination  of 
wool  and  mutton.    It  is  a  prolific  teeed,  easily  f  attenisd,  and  beanng 


SOUTHDOWN   SHEARLING   RAM. 


SHROPSHIRE  2  SHEAR   RAM. 


■intentional  second  exposure 


448 


KEPORT   OF  TAHIFF  BOABD  ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


their  chief  food  is  turnips,  eaten  more  or  less  where  they  grow,  though 
if  it  is  very  wet  turnips  may  be  pulled  and  sliced  and  fed  to  them. 
This  is  the  f amousj ' Imrdhng  system"  of  England.  It  is  done  on  a 
pecuHar  type  of  soil,  inclined  to  be  sandy  or  chalky  and  of  very  mod- 
erate fertility,  but  by  means  of  the  manure  dropped  on  the  and 
extraordinary  crops  are  secured,  as  high  as  40  to  50  bushels  of  wheat 
and  from  60  to  85  bushels  of  oats  to  the  acre. 

A  somewhat  similar  system  of  management  is  seen  m  France,  varied 
by  use  a  part  of  the  time  of  immense  sheep  barns.  Sheep  barns  are 
not  used  to  any  great  extent  in  England.  The  Hampshire  and  its 
treatment  is  mentioned  thus  fully  because  a  knowledge  of  the  hur- 
dling system  is  essential  to  any  comprehension  of  the  slieep  husbandry 
of  England.  By  means  of  sheep  and  their  manures  immense  areas  of 
English  soil  are  made  very  productive  which  without  this  manage- 
ment would  be  little  more  than  wastes.  The  Hampshire  is  important 
to  us  in  America,  too,  because  there  is  use  for  a  considerable  number  of 
Hampshire  rams  on  our  western  ranges  to  make  crossbred  lambs  for 
the  butchers.  There  is,  perhaps,  no  better  breed  than  this  for  that 
purpose,  provided  the  lambs  are  well  fed  from  the  tune  of  birth.  1^ js 
a  breed  that  needs  good  care  and  feed.  Hampshire  wool  is  a  desirable 
wool  and  Hampshire  crossbred  wool,  from  merino  foundations,  is 
desirable,  although  not  so  long  as  the  Lincoln  crossbred  wool.  Iho 
wool  of  the  Hampshire  sheep  brings  near  the  top  price  in  England 
(27  to  28  cents  per  pound,  fleece  washed,  December,  1910).  Ihe 
Hampshire  is  not  a  sheep  developed  with  especial  thought  of  wool  pro- 
duction, but  noted  for  its  ability  to  produce  good  mutton  cheaply  and 
abundantly.  It  is  a  made  breed,  ot  comparatively  recent  origin,  one 
of  its  component  parts  being  the  Southdown,  and  the  character  of 
its  wool  is  not  unfike  that  of  the  Southdown,  though  coarser.  In 
England  Southdown  wool  usually  outsells  Hampshire  wool  about  2 
cents  per  pound. 

THE   OXFORD  DOWN. 

Somewhat  like  the  Hampshire  Down  is  the  Oxford,  a  large  sheep,  of 
strong  bone  and  good  feeding  powers,  but  with  a  longer  fleecy  than 
the  Hampshire.  There  is  an  infusion  of  long-wool  blood  m  the  Oxford 
sheep.  This  accounts  for  the  character  of  the  wool.  It  is  a  sneep 
quite  largely  used  in  cross  breeding.  In  Scotland  Oxford  rams  on 
Cheviot  and  other  types  of  ewes  seem  to  give  excellent  results.  In 
America,  too,  the  Oxford  ram  on  the  ranges  gives  crossbreds  that 
are  desirable  both  for  wool  and  mutton.  Aside  from  the  greater 
lenc'th  of  the  wool  there  is  much  similarity  between  the  Oxford  and 
Hampshire  breeds,  so  that  what  has  been  s«iid  of  the  Hampshires  may 
be  taken  to  apply  rather  closely  to  the  Oxford  sheep.  It  wUl  no  doubt 
play  an  important  part  in  the  development  of  our  western  sheep 
mdustry. 

THE    SHROPSHIRE. 

This  also  is  a  Down,  or  so  classed— America's  favorit^  of  all  the 
British  types.  It  is  a  composite  breed,  bearing  the  blood  of  the 
Southdown  and  of  other  breeds,  but  so  perfectly  are  the  bloods  blended 
to-day  that  the  Shropshire  is  a  type  to  itself.  Shropshire  sheep  are 
the  most  widely  distributed  of  the  English  breeds.  They  are  clauned 
to  be  the  great  "farm  sheep"  of  the  world— a  rare  combination  of 
wool  and  mutton.    It  is  a  prolific  breed,  easily  fattened,  and  bearing 


SOUTHDOWN   SHEARLING   RAM. 


SHROPSHIRE  2  SHEAR   RAM. 


,.":*« 


REPOKT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


449 


ill 


a  fairly  heavy  fleece  of  good  down  wool,  moderately  fine.  Shropshires 
are  the  most  common  of  the  English  breeds  in  North  America  and  are 
seen  to  some  extent  in  South  America  and  Australia  and  New  Zealand. 
In  the  United  States  the  Shropshire  is  used  as  a  farm  sheep,  is  found 
ihrout^hout  all  the  region  of  the  *'corn  belt,"  as  well  as  in  the  Atlantic 
Coast^'States,  on  western  ranches,  and  in  the  Canadian  Province  of 
Ontario. 

THE   DORSET. 

The  Dorset  is  a  sheep  of  medium  size,  ranging  to  large;  native  to- 
i  outhern  England.  It  is  a  horned  white-faced  sheep,  with  a  fine  close 
wool,  somewLat  similar  in  character  to  the  wool  of  the  Southdown. 
The  especial  feature  of  the  Dorset  breed  is  its  fecundity  and  early 
lambing  habit,  which  makes  it  a  favorite  breed  for  production  of  early 
fat  lambs.  At  home  it  is  quite  generally  seen  in  hurdles,  though  ewes 
may  be  run  on  grass.  Dorsets  may  lamb  in  December  or  earker  and, 
being  large  milkers,  make  their  lambs  fat  in  midwinter  or  early  spring. 
The  special  field  of  the  Dorset  is  to  produce  lambs  that  go  to  butchers 
direct  from  their  mothers'  sides.  In  the  United  States  the  Dorset  is 
found  chiefly  in  the  Eastern  and  Central  States  among  early  lamb 
growers.  Some  Dorset  rams  have  been  used  in  cross  breeding  with 
merinos,  the  result  being  a  hardy  and  prolific  offspring.  The  Dorset 
is  being  used  experimentally  in  Austraha  in  cross  breeding  on  merinos 
to  make  freezing  lambs  for  export,  with  good  results.  The  bloods  of 
the  Dorset  and  the  merino  seem  to  blend  well. 

OTHER   ENGLISH   BREEDS. 

Almost  every  county  of  England  has  its  own  peculiar  breed.  Of 
these  local  types  the  Welsh  sheep  are  perhaps  the  most  important 
numerically.  Their  wools  make  the  famous  Welshpool  flannels.  The 
Wenslydale  is  of  the  Leicester  type ;  so  is  the  Devon  longwool  more  or 
less.  The  Hardwick  is  a  mountain  breed  with  a  hairy  wool;  the 
Exmoor,  a  small  horned  sheep,  very  hardy  and  good  for  its  environ- 
ment; the  Kerry  Hill,  a  breed  from  the  hills  of  the  Welsh  border;  the 
Irish  mountain  sheep,  with  a  short  soft  wool  suitable  for  hosiery;  and 
the  Shetland,  with  a  similar  wool.  None  of  these  breeds  has  become 
at  all  common  in  the  United  States. 

ENGLISH   CROSSES   POPULAR   IN   THE    UNITED   STATES. 

Americans,  mth  characteristic  enterprise,  have  bought  liberally 
for  many  vears — and  are  still  buying — fine  specimens  of  the  breeds 
which  have  worked  such  wonders  in  British  agriculture.  What  the 
English  had  done  our  farmers  believ-ed  they  also  could  do,  but  not 
all  have  succeeded.  Many  have  failed  in  various  parts  of  the  United 
States  to  handle  profitably  the  English  breeds  in  their  purity;  but 
for  crossbreeding  tliey  are  now  proved  to  be  invaluable.  They  are  the 
product  of  a  cocu  and  equable  cHmate;  the  highly  specialized  product 
of  a  land  where  rich  grasses  or  succulent  forage  is  never  lackmg;  the 
product  of  a  system  of  close  handling  such  as  has  no  real  counterpart 
upon  the  farms  and  ranches  of  our  own  country;  a  class  of  animals, 
the  pride  and  boast  of  a  race  of  men  with  whom  the  art  of  careful  shep- 
heraing  is  hereditary.     Bred  locally  for  generations  with  certain  varia- 

32080'*— H.  Doc.  342, 62-2,  vol  1 29 


450 


BEPOHT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


\ 


tions  of  type,  each  apparently  is  best  adapted  in  its  pure-bred  form 
to  some  particolar  soil  or  elevation  that  claims  it  for  its  own.  The 
wondei-ful  Lincolns  are  only  at  their  very  best  in  Lincolnshire.  They 
cross  successfully  in  New  Zealand  and  Argentina  with  the  merinos, 
and  some  purely  bred  flocks  do  well  in  those  countries.  They  and  their 
relatives,  the  Cotswolds,  are  much  hked  also  in  some  parts  of  the 
United  States,  but  it  seems  essential  that  importations  of  fresh  blood 
from  the  mother  country  be  made  at  frequent  intervals  in  order  to 
maintain  the  requisite  weight  of  carcass  and  the  desired  degree  of 
•  luster  and  length  of  staple.  The  Shropshire  and  other  Downs,  under 
conditions  not  so  favorable  as  those  under  wliich  they  have  been 
developed  in  their  native  land,  lose  something  of  their  size  and  quahty 
in  exposed  or  arid  situations. 

(  So  far,  therefore,  as  the  great  wool-growing  sections  of  the  West  are 
concerned,  there  is  no  such  thing  as  dupMcating  British  conditions  or 
British  methods. 

The  following  statement  on  the  cost  of  raising  sheep  in  Great 
Britain,  the  various  kinds  of  forage  fed,  and  the  methods  of  handling 
sheep  has  been  prepared  at  the  request  of  the  Tariff  Board  by  one  of 
the  highest  authorities  on  English  sheep  husbandry. 

COST  OF  SHEEP  MAN^AOEMENT   IN   GREAT   BRITAIN. 

''No  attempt  has  ever  been  made  to  arrive  at  the  average  rental 
value  of  land  principally  devoted  to  sheep  in  any  part  of  the  United 
Kingdom.  Only  approximate  figures  can  be  supphed,  based  on 
knowledge  as  to  what  is  actually  paid,  but  the  issue  is  obscured  by 
several  overlapping  considerations,  such  as — 

I  ''(1)  The  occurrence  of  tracts  of  high-hing  and  unproductive  land 
which  are  lumped  together  with  the  more  productive  soil.  Thus  in 
the  case  of  Hignland  sheep  farms,  a  rent  of  say  3d.  (6  cents)  per  acre 
gives  no  adequate  idea  as  to  the  actual  value.  It  may  include  areas 
of  water  or  what  is  called  ''black''  land,  or  mountain  sides  partly 
covered  with  rocks. 

1  "(2)  In  the  more  favored  districts  of  England,  Wales,  and  Scotland 
grain  growing  and  sheep  farming  are  carried  on  simultaneously,  and 
rent  is  looked  iipon  as  a  charge  upon  one  or  the  other  branch  according 
to  the  objects  for  wliich  each  is  maintained.  If  mostly  as  a  means  oi 
keeping  up  the  fertihty  of  the  land,  the  sheep  may  be  regarded  as 
an  mevitable  charge  and  the  cheapest  method  of  manuring  grain 
crops.  The  rent  or  such  land  varies  within  wide  limits,  according  to 
its  natural  quahties,  but  over  extensive  tracts  of  the  Upper  Chalk  and 
Colitic  limestones  many  large  arable  sheep  farms  are  held  at  rents  of 
5s.  ($1.22)  per  acre,  more  or  less.  A  good  farm  may  cost  lOs.  ($2.43) 
per  acre,  tithe  free,  but  anything  above  this  amount  would  be  con- 
sidered as  representing  land  of  distinctly  good  quality.  Certainly  15s. 
($3.65)  per  acre  woind  probably  include  sporting  rights  and  other 
residential  and  local  advantage. 

"(3)  In  the  numerous  districts  in  which  sheep  are  important,  but  at 
the  same  time  are  only  a  part  of  a  mixed  stock,  including  it  may  be  a 
large  herd  of  cows,  the  rent  may  approach  or  even  ^e£ceed  £1  per 
acre,  but  such  cases  are  not  of  much  value  in  arriving  at  an  answer  to 
the  question  as  to  the  average  rent  on  sheep  land. 


HAMPSHIRE  DOWN   RAM. 


f 


\ 


DORSET  HORN   RAM, 


INTENTIONAL  SECOND  EXPOSURE 


450 


BEPORT  OF   TAKIFF  BOABD   ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


tions  of  typOj  each  apparently  is  best  adapted  in  its  pure-bred  form 
to  some  particular  soil  or  elevation  that  claims  it  for  its  own.  The 
wonderful  Lincolns  are  only  at  their  very  best  in  Lincolnshire.  They 
cross  successfully  in  New  Zealand  and  Argentina  with  the  merinos, 
and  some  purely  bred  flocks  do  well  in  those  countries.  They  and  their 
relatives,  the  Cotswolds,  are  much  liked  also  in  some  parts  of  the 
United  States,  but  it  seems  essential  that  importations  of  fresh  blood 
from  the  mother  country  be  made  at  frequent  intervals  in  order  to 
maintain  the  requisite  weight  of  carcass  and  the  desired  degree  of 
•  luster  and  length  of  staple.  The  Shropshire  and  other  Downs,  under 
conditions  not  so  favorable  as  those  under  which  they  have  been 
developed  in  their  native  land,  lose  something  of  their  size  and  quahty 
in  exposed  or  arid  situations. 

I  So  far,  therefore,  as  the  great  wool-growing  sections  of  the  West  are 
concerned,  there  is  no  such  thing  as  duplicating  British  conditions  or 
British  methods. 

'  The  following  statement  on  the  cost  of  raising  sheep  in  Great 
Britain,  the  various  kinds  of  forage  fed,  and  the  methods  of  handling 
sheep  has  been  prepared  at  the  request  of  the  Tariff  Board  by  one  of 
the  highest  authorities  on  Enghsh  sheep  husbandry. 

COST  OF   SHEEP  MANAGEMENT   IN   GREAT   BRITAIN. 

''No  attempt  has  ever  been  made  to  arrive  at  the  average  rental 
value  of  land  principally  devoted  to  sheep  in  any  part  of  the  United 
Kingdom.  Only  approximate  figures  can  be  supplied,  based  on 
knowledge  as  to  what  is  actually  paid,  but  the  issue  is  obscured  by 
several  overlapping  considerations,  such  as— 

i  "(1)  The  occurrence  of  tracts  of  high-lying  and  unproductive  land 
which  are  lumped  together  with  the  more  productive  soil.  Thus  in 
the  case  of  Ilignland  sheep  farms,  a  rent  of  say  3d.  (6  cents)  per  acre 
gives  no  adequate  idea  as  to  the  actual  value.  It  may  include  areas 
of  water  or  what  is  called  ''black"  land,  or  mountain  sides  partly 
covered  with  rocks. 

i  "(2)  In  the  more  favored  districts  of  England,  Wales,  and  Scotland 
grain  growing  and  sheep  farming  are  carried  on  simultaneously,  and 
rent  is  looked  upon  as  a  charge  upon  one  or  the  other  branch  according 
to  the  objects  for  wldch  each  is  maintained.  If  mostly  as  a  means  of 
keeping  up  the  fertility  of  the  land,  the  sheep  may  be  regarded  as 
an  inevitable  charge  and  the  cheapest  method  of  manuring  grain 
crops.  The  rent  or  such  land  varies  within  wide  limits,  according  to 
its  natural  c|ualities,  but  over  extensive  tracts  of  the  Upper  Chalk  and 
Colitic  limestones  many  large  arable  sheep  farms  are  held  at  rents  of 
5s.  ($1.22)  per  acre,  more  or  less.  A  good  farm  may  cost  10s.  ($2.43) 
per  acre,  tithe  free,  but  anytliing  above  this  amount  would  be  con- 
sidered as  representing  land  of  distinctly  good  quality.  Certainly  ISs. 
($3.65)  per  acre  would  probably  include  sporting  rights  and  other 
residential  and  local  advantage. 

"(3)  In  the  numerous  districts  in  wliich  sheep  are  important,  but  at 
the  same  time  are  onlv  a  part  of  a  mixed  stock,  including  it  may  be  a 
large  herd  of  cows,  the  rent  may  approach  or  even  exceed  £1  per 
acre,  but  such  cases  are  not  of  much  value  in  arriving  at  an  answer  to 
the  question  as  to  the  average  rent  on  sheep  land. 


HAMPSHIRE  DOWN   RAM. 


DORSET  HORN   RAM. 


EEPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K, 


451 


"In  the  matter  of  HigWand  sheep-farm  rents,  the  custom  is  so 
general  of  fixing  the  rent  by  a  charge  of  so  much  per  head  on  the 
sheep  which  the  farm  is  capable  of  maintaining,  that  the  rental  per 
acre  can  harcUy  be  deduced  by  calculation.  Thus  in  the  case  of  one 
representative  sheep  farm  the  rent  is  £300  for  a  tract  estimated 
to  carry  46  scores  of  ewes  and  12 scores  of  ''hoggets,"  equahng  1,160 
sheep,  which  works  out  to  a  rent  of  5s.  2d.  ($1.26)  per  sheep. 
For  purely  sheep  farms  carrying  ordinary  blackface  ewes  the  rents 
average  about  2s.  (49  cents)  per  ewe;  but  considerably  more  would 
be  paid  where  good  Cheviots  can  be  grazed;  4s.  to  7s.  (97  cents  to 
$1.70)  per  ewe  being  given  by  some  large  farmers  in  Southerlandshire. 
It  would  be  misleacSng  to  reduce  such  rents  to  a  per  acre  standard,  as 
not  only  are  the  areas  extremely  extensive  and  perhaps  unknown, 
but  also  interrupted  by  unproductive  tracts  of  land  and  water  which 
ought  not  to  be  included. 

*^The  answer  to  the  question  as  to  the  average  wages  paid  to 
ordinary  farm  laborers  who  assist  in  the  care  of  sheep,  and  the 
usual  range  of  wages  paid  to  expert  shepherds  in  the  case  of  ordinary 
commercial  flocks,  is  as  follows: 

''There  does  not  appear  to  be  any  material  difference  between  the 
wages  of  farm  laborers  sent  to  assist  the  regular  shepherds,  and  other 
laborers,  except  that  of  Sunday  wages  when  attendance  is  necessary 
on  that  day.  The  ordinary  winter  wages  of  farm  laborers  range 
from  12s.  to  14s.  ($2.92  to  $3.41)  a  week,  but  summer  wages  are 
much  higher,  and  approximate  to  double  these  amounts  in  hay  time 
and  harvest.  Piecework  also  enables  good  men  to  increase  the 
ordinary  or  winter  daily  rate  of  payment  very  considerably.  A 
laborer  attending  sheep  seven  days  a  week  would  not  be  content  with 
less  than  14s.  ($3.41)  in  winter.  His  services  would  scarcely  be 
required,  however,  during  the  period  of  higher  wages,  as  the  regular 
shepherd  and  liis  helpers  ought  then  to  be  able  to  attend  upon  the 
sheep  without  such  help. 

"As  to  shepherds'  wages  over  large  areas,  the  average  shepherd's 
pay  is  assumed  to  be  2s.  (49  cents)  "above  the  men,"  with  the 
addition  of  a  free  house  and  certain  perquisites  which  belong  to  his 
position.  The  arrangements  with  shepherds  vary  considerably  in 
different  districts,  but  the  following  schedule  of  payment  is  in  opera- 
tion over  large  areas  on  farms  in  Wilts,  Hants,  Dorset,  Berks,  and 
contiguous  counties: 

"Standing  wages  per  week  14s.  ($3.41),  per  annum  £36  ($175.19). 
Free  house  and  garden  (often  valued  at  Is.  (24  cents)  per  week), 
per  annum  £2  12s.  ($12.65).  Extra  fee  for  lambing  time,  per  annum 
£1  ($4.87) ;  Id.  (2  cents)  for  everv  lamb  weaned,  say,  600  per  annum, 
£2  10s.  ($12.16).. 

"An  additional  shilling  (24  cents)  for  every  double  couple  or  twins 
weaned,  say,  100  per  annum,  £5  ($24.33).  One  bushel  of  meal  per 
day,  per  annum,  3s.  (73  cents).  Extra  wages  for  shearing,  cUpping, 
etc.,  often  meaning  double  daily  pay  over  10  days,  at  2e.  4d.  (57  cents), 
per  annum  £1  ($4.87). 

"Totals  per  annum,  £48  13s.  ($236.75),  the  equivalent  of  18s.  18id. 
($4.69)  per  week. 

"In  answer  to  your  inquiry  as  to  the  ran^e  of  value  of  forage  con- 
sumed by  sheep,  it  is  obvious  that  this  is  a  difficult  matter  to  discuss 


452 


bi:poet  of  tariff  board  ox  schedule  k. 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


453 


satisfactorily,  because  the  positive  as  well  as  the  comparative  values 
of  forage  are  eminently  dependent  on  the  season,  and  this  to  a 
greater  degree  than  might  appear  at  first  sight.  Take  roots  as  an 
example.  In  some  seasons  tney  may  be  had  for  the  asking,  the 
growers  being  only  too  glad  to  have  them  eaten  upon  the  ground, 
while  in  other  years  they  command  various  nrices,  ranging  from  Id. 
(2  cents)  to  4d.  (8  cents)  per  head  per  week  where  grazed.  Cases 
might  be  cited  in  wliich  9d.  (18  cents)  per  head  per  week  has  been 
given  in  England,  and  prices  up  to  £11  ($53.53)  have  been  given  in 
Scotland  per  acre  for  good  swedes.  It  is  the  same  with  sunmier 
fodder,  although  to  a  less  degree.  When  grass  is  abundant  and 
requires  grazing,  it  is  difficult  to  assess  it  at  a  commercial  figure,  and 
Id.  (2  cents)  per  week  per  head  would  be  a  good  price.  When 
"keep"  is  generally  abundant,  it  is  difficult  to  find  customers  at  any 
price,  and  the  farmer  who  has  no  stock  of  his  own  and  trusts  to 
leasing  his  **keep"  often  finds  himself  in  a  difficult  position.  This 
problem  affects  the  general  question  of  the  costs  of  Keeping  sheep, 
which  can  not  weU  m  approached  upon  the  basis  of  the  commercial 
value  of  the  natural  foods,  purchased  foods  being  much  easier  to 
deal  with.  This  applies  to  hay  as  well  as  to  roots,  and  to  green 
fodder  as  much  as  to  straw,  the  stock  farmer  sometimes  grudging  his 
stock  food,  which  would  command  a  high  price  if  sold,  and  at  other 
times  being  thankful  that  he  has  mouths  to  eat  it.  These  fluctua- 
tions are  so  wide  and  so  short-lived  that  it  is  difficult  to  arrive  at 
standard  figures  as  to  the  actual  value  of  any  particular  class  of 
forage.  The  usual  range  of  values  is  to  some  degree  shown  in  the 
above  remarks,  but  not  in  a  way  to  satisfv  the  statistician.  The 
subject  is  too  complicated  to  have  enlisted  the  interest  of  farmers  in 
this  countrv,  and  few  attempts  have  been  made  to  arrive  at  the  com- 
mercial value  of  different  forage  crops  in  the  order  of  their  merits. 
Such  a  task  would  be  viewed  as  impracticable.  StiU,  relative  values 
may  be  profitably  discussed,  and  a  few  remarks  may  be  made  upon 
this  aspect  of  forage  values.  The  estimation  in  which  various  kmds 
of  fodder  are  held  may  be  expressed  by  brief  statements  as  follows; 

"Young  grass  is  superior  to  hay  off  the  same  land. 

"All  fodder  crops  are  at  their  best  when  coming  into  bloojn. 

"Straw  possesses  considerable  feeding  properties  if  cut  early. 

"Keally  good  early  cut  oat  straw  is  equal  to  inferior  hay. 

"^Vhite  turnips  are  equal  to  or  superior  to  swedes  in  autumn. 

"Swedes  are  superior  to  turnips  alter  Christmas. 

"Mangel-wurzel  is  superior  to  swedes  after  the  end  of  March. 

"Ka|>e  is  an  unrivaled  summer  fodder  for  sheep. 

"White  mustard  is  regarded  as  a  maintenance  rather  than  as  a 
fattening  food. 

"Rye,  winter  barley,  and  winter  oats  are  viewed  as  stop  gaps  to 
fill  up  periods  when  more  staple  foods  are  scarce  or  late. 

"Samfoin  is  highly  regarded  by  all  shepherds  as  possessing  quali- 
ties peculiar  to  itself,  conducive  to  the  health  of  the  flocks. 

"Lucerne  is  less  widely  grown  than  sainfoin,  but  is  increasing  in 
popularity. 

"Rye  grass  (Italian  and  perennial)  is  good  when  young,  but  innu- 
tritious  when  once  shot  out  into  ear. 

"All  grasses  should  be  closely  grazed,  and  not  allowed  to  flower  or 
seed. 


t 


]^' 


"Changes  of  fodder  during  each  day  are  recommended,  and  the 
system  is  largely  followed;  thus  sheep  are  shifted  from  a  night  fold 
on  rye  or  vetches  onto  water  meadow,  rape,  cabbage,  or  clover,  ac- 
cording to  the  season,  with  great  advantage. 

"Keeping  sheep  on  one  description  of  fodder  for  several  days  to- 
gether IS  not  considered  to  be  good  management  and  this  alone 
renders  it  difficult  to  value  the  corps  separately. 

"Swedes,  mangels,  or  cabbages  are  often  scattered  among  green 
fodder  crops  according  to  the  season,  in  order  to  give  a  variety  of 

"Mixed  fodder  crops,  such  as  turnips  and  rape,  swedes  and  rape, 
kale  and  swedes,  vetches  and  winter  oats,  and  mixed  ''seeds,''  are 
often  preferred  to  pure  cultures  of  single  plants. 

"The  character  and  quahty  of  the  land  has  more  effect  upon  the 
feeding  value  of  any  fodder  crop  than  its  specific  character.  Sheep 
and  cattle  will  graze  some  plants  of  a  field  closely,  and  leave  other 
herbage,  although  of  the  best  species,  absolutely  neglected  on  other 

portions. 

"  The  feeding  value  of  roots  also  depends  to  a  large  degree  upon  the 
soil  and  situation  upon  wliich  they  are  produced. 

"  In  the  face  of  so  many  confficting  tendencies  it  would  be  mere 
pedantry  to  attempt  to  place  forage  qrops  in  order  of  merit.  Analysis 
fails,  because  it  must  be  based  on  typical  cases,  and  the  difference  in 
actual  value  of  esteemed  and  accredited  forage  crops  if  tabulated  are 
not  great,  wliile  they  are  seriously  affected  by  the  soil  and  the  climate, 
the  age  and  stage  of  the  plant,  and  its  comparative  abimdance  or 
scarcity  at  a  particular  tune.  Market  prices  are  apparently  con- 
trolled by  the  demand  more  than  by  the  intrinsic  value  of  any  kind 
of  forage.  It  is  notorious  that  the  price  of  a  particular  commodity 
will  rise  to  an  absurd  height  only  because  it  can  be  obtained  with 
difficulty,  even  though  another  commodity  could  easily  be  sub- 
stituted in  its  place. 

"  The  subject  of  the  average  cost  of  maintaining  sheep  per  head  m 
England  and  Scotland  is  intimately  connected  with  the  foregoing 
problems  and  is  equally  difficult  to  reduce  to  a  definite  statement. 
The  fact  that  the  rents  of  Scottish  sheepwalks  are  based  upon  the 
head  of  sheep,  and  amount  in  many  cases  to  5s.  ($1.22)  per  head,  is  an 
indication  at  least  that  the  cost  is  not  very  high,  for  if  food  and  shep- 
herding were  deducted  from  total  costs  the  remainder  would  be  smaU. 
From  6s.  ($1.46)  to  8s.  ($1.95)  for  the  entire  winter  are  common 
prices  given  for  wintering  t^s  both  in  Scotland  and  England,  includ- 
mg  hay,  roots,  and  shepherding — that  is,  except  for  losses  and  interest 
on  capital  such  figures  represent  the  principal  costs  during  some  22 
weeks,  or  from  3d.  (6  cents)  to  4id.  (9  cents)  per  week.  There  are 
also  other  ways  of  arriving  at  the  cost  of  keep,  for  in  most  years  sum- 
mer grazing  can  be  arranged  for  on  a  basis  of  from  Id.  (2  cents)  per 
head  per  week  to  sHghtly  over  that  sum.  Roots  also,  if  the  owner 
supplies  cake,  corn,  and  hay,  can  be  obtained  free,  or  in  times  of 
scarcity  at  Id.  (2  cents)  to  2d.  (4  conts)  per  head  per  week.  Calcu- 
lations as  to  the  costs  of  natural  food,  excluding  hay,  taking  one  year 
with  another,  have  often  been  based  upon  la.  per  head  per  week 
throughout  the  year,  or  4s.  4d.  ($1.05)  per  annum,  but  the  remaining 
costs,  even  after  this  moderate  commencement,  total  up  to  a  rather 
formidable  sum.    It  may  be  assumed  that  1  acre  of  yoots  costs  £5 


1 


% 


454 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


455 


($24.33)  to  produce,  half  of  which  may  not  unreasonably  be  charged 
to  the  sheep  consuming  them,  and  half  to  the  benefits  wliich  the  land 
receiyes  through  their  consumption.  Now,  if,  as  is  often  the  case,  an 
acre  of  roots  maintains  300  sneep  for  one  week  this  is  2d.  (4 -cents) 
per  head  per  week.  Summer  keep  is  much  cheaper,  and  probably 
under  Id.  (2  cents).  Any  error  as  regards  such  estimates  becomes  less 
important  when  the  remaining  expenses  are  added.  These  are  as 
follows:  Shepherding,  washing,  shearing,  marking,  etc.,  losses  from 
death  and  accidents,  interest  on  capital,  marketing  and  commissions, 
artificial  foods,  hay,  and  ram  service.  A  shepherd  will  look  after 
500  sheep,  but  requires  assistance  at  lambing  and  other  busy  seasons. 
In  winter  he  requires  almost  constant  help,  and  in  satisfaction  of  this 
claim  a  charge  of  half  as  much  again  is  added  to  the  shepherd's 
wages,  bringing  the  labor  up  to  £73  ($355.25)  (see  estimate  of  shep- 
herd's wage),  which,  divided  over  500  head,  comes  to  2s.  lid.  (71  cents) 
per  head,  or,  say,  3s.  (73  cents).  Shearing  costs  3s.  6d.  (85  cents)  per 
score,  or  about  2d.  (4  cents)  per  head;  and  other  incidentals,  such  as 
washing,  marking,  fly  powder,  etc.,  may  be  put  at  Id.  (2  cents).  The 
losses  from  death  vary,  but  are  often  taken  at  one  to  the  score,  or 
5  per  cent  on  an  average  value,  it  may  be  of  £1  ($4.87)  or  more.  If 
this  figure  is  accepted  there  is  another  Is.  (24  cents)  per  head  to  add. 
Interest  on  capital  might  be  thpught  to  be  an  unnecessary  charge, 
because  profits  are  really  interest.  But  as  capital  must  be  found, 
another  5  per  cent  on  the  average  valuation  entails  another  shipping. 
Marketing  and  the  usual  commissions  and  costs  of  driving  are  taken 
at  2i  per  cent  on  the  same  amount,  or  6d.  (12  cents)  per  nead. 

"Artificial  foods  ought  to  increase  the  gross  return  and  thus  balance 
the  extra  expense  incurred.  If  5s.  ($1.22)  per  head  is  spent  on  cake, 
the  sheep  or  lambs  ought  to  be  that  much  more  valuable,  and  hence 
it  is  optional  whether  it  is  charged  or  not.  It  does  not  affect  the 
balance  and  may  be  thought  to  be  paid  for  both  by  the  sheep  and  in 
the  land.  Hay,  however,  is  different,  because  it  is  not  included  in 
the  estimate  of  Id.  (2  cents)  or  2d.  (4  cents)  per  week  for  natural 
food.  A  sheep  will  consume  at  least  1  pound  in  weight  per  head  per 
day  for  5  months  from  December  to  April,  or  21  weeks,  and  with 
waste,  which  it  is  impossible  to  entirely  prevent,  H  hundredweight, 
or  a  value  of  4s.  6d.  ($1.09)  will  be  spent,  or  another  Id.  (2  cents) 
per  week  calculated  over  the  year.  Kam  service  may  easily  cost 
2s.  6d.  (61  cents)  per  ewe,  but  ought  to  be  charged  on  the  lambs,  as 
it  is  only  incurred  for  breeding  flocks.  We  are  now  in  a  position  to 
bring  together  these  various  items  in  order  to  see  at  a  glance  the  cost 
of  maintaining  a  sheep  or  ewe  for  one  year. 

Cost  of  tnaintaining  a  ^iheep  or  ewe  for  o)ie  year. 

Bare  cost  of  natural  herbage  and  roots 4    4=$1. 05 

Shepherding 3  ..=    .73 

Other  incidental  labor  expense 1=    .02 

Shearing 2=    .04 

Losses  from  death  and  accidents. 1 1  ..=    .24 

Interest  on  an  average  value  of  £1  per  head 1  ..=    .24 

Marketing  and  eommiasions 6=    .12 

Artificial  food  omitted  for  reasons  given  in  text = 

Hay... 4    6=  1.09 

Total 14    7=  3.53 


L 


I 


) 


"As  ewes  are  kept  for  breeding,  this  amount  after  deducting  the 
value  of  the  fleece,  remains  as  debt  upon  the  lambs.  Accordiug  to  a 
result  obtained  in  1910,  5  pounds  of  unwashed  wool,  at  9ia.  (19 
cents),  represented  the  average  weight  of  fleeces  over  a  large  flock, 
i.  e.,  3s.  11  id.  (96  cents),  say  4s.  (97  cents),  which  leaves  the  cost  of 
the  owe  to  be  handed  onto  her  lamb  or  lambs  at  10s.  7d.  ($2.57). 
The  lamb  therefore  arrives,  if  a  single,  with  a  debt  of  10s.  7d.  ($2.57), 
or  of  5s.  S^d.  ($1.29)  if  twins  are  produced.  For  purposes  of  compu- 
tation we  assume  the  middle  figure  of  7s.  lljd.  ($1.92),  although  it  is 
a  sanguine  estimate.  Lambs,  however,  require  feeding  and  attend- 
ance, and  are  subject  to  mortality  to  a  greater  degree  than  older 
sheep.  The  lamb's  food  is  generally  allowed  for  by  an  extra  charge 
on  the  ewes  with  lambs  at  Id.  (2  cents),  or  2d.  (4  cents)  per  week 
(extra)  when  with  their  dams,  which  may  be  for  15  weeks.  After 
weaning,  lambs  cost  as  much  as  ewes,  for  if  they  eat  less,  lamb  keep  is 
choicer  than  ewe  keep.  They  do  not  receive  much  hay,  it  is  true ;  but 
as  tliis  has  been  charged  on  the  ewes,  it  can  be  omitted.  Neither  are 
pampered  or  forced  lambs  considered  in  this  connection,  because  such 
lambs  command  a  much  higher  price  and  probably  pay  well  for  extra 
indulgence  (see  above).  The  schedule  of  costs  for  a  lamb  sold  on 
the  15th  of  September  is,  therefore,  made  up  as  follows: 

8.  d. 

Debt  on  lamb  when  bom 7  lli=$l.  92* 

Cost  of  ram  service,  one  lamb  to  each  ewe  (see  note) 2  6  =    .61 

Natural  food  Id.  per  week  for  five  months 1  9^=    .44 

Total 12      2i=  2.97 

"  It  will  be  noticed  that  the  ewe  account  is  balanced  and  carried 
forward,  so  that  the  figure  of  12s.  2f  d.  ($2.97)  represents  the  cost  of 
maintaining  a  ewe  and  her  progeny  for  one  year,  sinking  the  wool. 

"It  is  asked  to  suggest  the  fair  approxirnate  proportionate  return 
per  annum  for  sales  of  sheep  and  lambs  against  sales  of  wool.  In  the 
case  of  a  breeding  flock  the  draft  ewes  may  be  left  out  of  the  calcu- 
lation if  all  the  lambs  are  sold.  The  annual  draft  is  replaced  by  ewe 
lambs  which  are  of  about  the  same  value  as  cull  ewes,  this  assump- 
tion simplifying  the  calculation.  The  sale  value  of  lambs  in  English 
sheep  districts  in  September  which  have  not  received  cake  or  com 
may  be  assessed  at  20s.  ($4.87),  which  leaves  a  profit  of  7s.  9Jd. 
($1.89)  per  ewe  kept.  As  lambs  are  rarely  shorn,  and  the  custom  is 
scarcely  one  to  be  encouraged,  the  proportion  between  the  sale  of 
lambs  per  head  and  that  of  wool  is  as  £1  ($4.87)  sterling  to  4s.  (97 
cents),  i.  e.,the  wool  is  one-fifth  of  the  total  sales.*  The  proportion 
between  the  value  of  wool  and  the  total  sales  is  affected  by  tne  weights 
of  the  fleeces,  and  the  above  estimate  is  based  on  Down  flocks. 
The  proportion  might  be  different  in  the  case  of  long  wools  such  as 
Lincolns. 

*'The  statement  has  frequently  been  made  that  the  best  shepherds 
receive  the  highest  wage  of  any  class  of  farm  laborers  in  Great  Britain, 
and  that  sheep,  on  the  whole,  are  the  most  profitable  farm  animals 
maintained  by  British  farmers. 

"In  respect  to  the  first  half  of  this  statement  it  may  be  true  of  the 
highest  class  of  shepherds,  capable  of  turning  out  prize  sheep.    They 

»  This  allows  for  barren  ewes,  and  is  based  on  an  experience  of  one  lamb  weaned  for  every  ewe  put  to  ram. 


466 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


often  receive  part  of  the  prize  money  and  gratuities  for  the  sale  of 
rams  or  valuable  drafts  of  ewes  or  of  ewe  lambs.  In  ordinary  cases 
shepherds  do  not  receive  liigher  wages  than  dairymen,  head  carters, 
or  foremen.  Neither  do  they  make  more  money  than  many  good  men 
who  take  piecework  throughout  the  year.  It  can  scarcely  be  said 
that  shepherds  are  distinctly  higher  paid  than  are  the  head  horsemen 
or  dairj^men  of  choice  studs  or  herds.  It  is,  however,  quite  true  that 
shepherds  who  manage  the  best  flocks  have  excellent  places  and  have 
been  known  to  net  as  much  as  50s.  ($12.17)  per  week. 

"With  respect  to  the  second  part  of  the  statement  it  was  not  at  one 
time  far  from  the  truth,  but  during  the  last  three  or  four  years  sheep 
have  been  much  less  profitable  than  dairy  cattle,  for  instance.  Mut- 
ton has  sold  badly  of  late,  relatively  much  below  beef  or  pork,  both 
of  which  have  recently  commanded  excellent  prices." 

SHEEP  m  THE  DOMINION  OF  CANADA. 

In  the  year  1910  there.were  2,629,781  sheep  in  the  various  Canadian 
Provinces,  with  an  average  per  capita  value  of  $6.30. 

Of  the  total,  1,030,227,  or  about  40  per  cent,  are  in  the  Province  of 
Ontario.  With  the  exception  of  315,000  head  in  the  two  Provinces  of 
Saskatchewan  and  Alberta,  where  the  general  conditions  of  handling 
Slieep  very  closely  approximate  the  range  concUtions  in  the  State  or 
Montana,  Canadian  sheep  are  handled  about  the  same  as  are  sheep  in 
the  States  of  Ohio,  Micliigan,  and  Pennsylvania. 

In  the  20  years  following  1881  cattle,  horses,  and  hogs  increased  in 
numbers  all  over  the  Dominion,  while  sheep  declined  about  17  per 
cent.  Tills  falling  off  is  general  in  all  the  Provinces,  and  reports  from 
Canada  note  this  fact  and  offer  various  reasons  for  it.  Several 
causes  appear  to  have  operated  to  aid  this  dechne.  In  the  early  daya 
sheep  were  kept  on  the  farms  in  order  to  furnish  wool  for  the  clothing 
worn  by  the  farmer  and  his  family.  With  tlie  turning  of  the  natural 
pastures  into  fields  of  wheat  and  general  agriculture  products,  the 
farmers  found  more  profit  in  other  domestic  animals  and  gave  up 
sheep  as  the  settlement  of  the  country  became  closer. 

Outside  of  the  two  western  Provinces  mentioned,  the  sheep  in  the 
Dominion  are  aU  in  small  flocks.  It  is  seldom  a  farmer  has  more 
than  20  sheep  and  the  majority  of  the  lots  are  under  that  number. 

The  sheep  m  the  eastern  Provinces  are  practically  all  longwools  and 
po'wns,  bred  entirely  for  their  mutton-producing  qualities.  Those 
in  Alberta  and  Saskatchewan  are  nearly  ail  merinos.  There  are  sheep 
in  almost  every  agricultural  district  of  the  Dominion,  but  as  a  gener^ 
tliuig  they  are  looked  upon  merely  as  scavengers  and  weed  eat- 
ers, kept  because  they  will  eat  out  the  fence  comers  and  live  upon 
what  would  sustain  no  other  domestic  animal. 

The  eastern  Provinces. — Ontario  has  always  been  the  largest  sheep- 
raising  Province  of  the  Dominion.  In  18^97  it  contained  1,690,351 
sheep;  in  1906,  1,304,806;  and  in  1910,  1,030,227,  showing  a  constant 
falhng  off  m  numbers. 

This  Province  is  a  very  good  sheep-raising  region,  with  excellent 
blue-grass  pastures,  a  moderate  rainfall,  and  cold  dry  winters.  It  has 
about  the  same  sheep  diseases  as  the  Middle  Eastern  United  States. 
There  are  cases  of  foot  rot  and  intestinal  worms,  not  much  scab, 
but  dipping  is  necessary  all  over  the  eastern  Provinces  to  rid  the  sheep 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


457 


of  ticks.  Winter  feeduig  is  necessary  as  in  our  Eastern  States,  and  is 
confined  to  hay,  oats,  and  root  crops,  there  being  very  little  corn  raised 
in  Canada. 

A  few  years  ago  a  great  many  lambs  were  fed  for  the  market,  over 
125,000  being  exported  to  the  United  States  and  33,000  to  Great 
Britain  in  1907.     This  export  trade  has  now  dwindled  until  in  1910 

Eractically  no  Canadian  lambs  were  sent  to  this  country,  the  fat  lambs 
eing  consumed  in  the  Dominion. 

In  the  eastern  Provinces  losses  from  dogs  are  very  serious  and  have 
driven  a  great  many  farmers  to  sell  their  sheep,  just  as  they  have  in 
the  Eastern  United  States. 

In  Nova  Scotia  figures  secured  show  that  the  average  income  from 
one  ewe  for  a  vear  from  wool  and  lamb  is  between  $5  and  $6.  Nova 
Scotia  sheep  shear  between  5  and  6  pounds,  the  animals  being  rather 
small,  with  some  merino  blood. 

The  range  Provinces. — In  northern  Alberta  there  is  a  region  where 
the  climate  and  general  conditions  are  similar  to  those  of  Ontario  and 
sheep  are  handled  just  as  in  that  Province.  However,  in  the  southern 
portion  of  Alberta  and  in  Saskatchewan  the  sheep  are  handled  as  in 
Montana.  Some  hay  is  put  up  for  winter  use  if  needed,  but  for  the 
most  part  the  sheep  are  expected  to  find  their  feed  on  the  open  ranges 
through  the  entire  winter. 

Wages  are  approximately  the  same  as  are  paid  in  the  United  States, 
and  other  general  costs  of  production,  dipping,  shearing,  fencing,  etc., 
are  much  the  same. 

The  Canadian  Government  has  recognized  the  needs  of  the  sheep 
owners  by  setting  aside  certain  areas  in  these  two  Provinces  exclu- 
sively for  sheep,  thus  avoiding  range  complications  such  as  have  been 
the  source  of  trouble  in  the  western  Umted  States.  Here  in  these 
two  Provinces  there  is  some  merino  blood  kept  just  as  it  is  in  the 
United  States,  to  hold  the  vigor  and  constitution  of  the  ewes  in  the 
flocks,  but  the  rams  used  are  generally  of  the  mutton  breeds.  These 
sheep  average  between  6  and  8  pounds  of  wool  per  year  and  prices 
received  for  it  are  about  the  same  as  in  the  United  States.  There  is 
some  scab,  some  loss  from  poisonous  plants  and  wild  animals. 

The  wool  clip. — ^The  Canadian  wool  clip  amounts  to  approximately 
12.000,000  pounds  per  year,  of  wliich  Ontario  produces  almost  one- 
half.  Very  little  of  it  now  comes  to  the  United  States.  During  the 
years  1895,  1896,  and  1897,  in  which  there  was  no  import  duty  on 
wool  into  the  United  States,  the  Canadian  growers  sent  a  large  amount, 
averaging  approximately  5,000,000  pounds  per  year — about  one-half 
of  the  clip;  but  with  the  restoration  of  the  duty  in  1898  the  shipments 
dropped  back  to  the  former  average  of  about  1,500,000  pounds  per 
year. 

These  shipments  consist  almost  entirely  of  combing  wools  not  under 
5  inches  in  length  and  generally  have  been  washed  on  the  sheep's 
backs.  Much  of  the  Ontario  wool,  estimated  as  high  as  60  or  70  per 
cent  of  the  total  clip,  is  thus  washed — a  practice  that  is  quite  common 
in  the  eastern  Provinces. 

The  average  shrinkage  on  wool  from  the  eastern  Provinces  appears 
to  be  between  50  and  60  per  cent. 

Canadian  studjloclcs. — Canadian  breeders  are  very  enterprising  and 
have  worked  systematically  and  with  excellent  success  to  build  up 


458 


REPOBT  OF  TABIPF  BOABB  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


stud  flocks  of  first-class  mutton  breeds.  So  successful  have  they  been 
that  it  is  estimated  by  several  writers  that  from  60  to  70  per  cent  of 
their  output  of  high-class  breeding  stock  comes  to  the  United  States 
each  year.  Some  Canadian  writers  deplore  this  as  one  of  the  great 
causes  for  the  decline  of  the  sheep-raising  industry  in  Canada,  assert- 
ing that  the  farm  flocks  have  not  been  Kept  up  as  they  should  by 
reason  of  this  drain  upon  the  Dominion's  best  blood. 

To  check  this  decHne  and  aid  the  sheep  owners  in  reestablishing  the 
business,  the  Canadian  Government  has  brought  into  the  country  at 
different  times  liigh-class  stud  sheep  and  sold  them  either  at  public 
auction  or  for  very  low  figures  to  actual  farm 
with  the  hope  of  thus  buiiding  up  the  business. 


actual  farmers  and  woolgrowers 


PART  11.  RAW  WOOLS -ADDENDA. 


SPECIAL  KEPOKT  OX  THE  WOOL  INDUSTRY  OF  THE 
AUSTRALIAN  COmiONWEALTH. 


459 


BLANK  PAGE(S) 


I 


ll 


SPECIAL  AUSTRALIAN  STUD  EWES  (UNDER  1|  YEARS),  GRAZED  AT  LARGE  ON 

NATURAL  GRASSES.  AND   UNHOUSED. 


Ilf 


f 


AN  AUSTRALIAN   MERINO  RAM  THAT  SOLD  FOR  $6,000. 


1 


SPECIAI   EEPORT   OH  THE  WOOL  BSTDUSTEY  OF   THE 
AUSTRAIIAH  COMMONWEAITH. 

Sheep  were  imported  from  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  mto  Austraha 
as  early  as  1788  oy  Capt.  Phillip,  tne  first  governor  of  New  South 
Wales.  They  formed  part  of  a  small  shipment  of  various  kinds  of 
live  stock  from  which  it  was  intended  to  Dreed  with  a  view  to  aug- 
menting the  food  supply  of  the  colony.  But  a  definite  beginning 
with  flock  husbandry  m  Australia  was  not  made  until  1797,  when  26 
stud  sheep  of  the  Esourial  breed  were  introduced  from  the  Cape. 
Eight  of  tnese  survived  and  were  purchased  by  Capt.  John  McArthur, 
a  pioneer  settler,  who  had  secured  a  grant  of  land  at  Paramatta,  near 
Sydney.  In  1804  (two  years  after  David  Humphreys  established  his 
famous  stud  flock  of  Spanish  merinos  in  Connecticut)  McArthur  im- 
ported a  few  rams  and  ewes  of  pure  Negretti  blood  which  he  had  pur- 
chased from  the  stud  of  King  George  III  at  Kew,  in  England.  As 
neither  the  Cape  nor  the  Negretti  sheep  throve  well  in  the  moist 
climate  of  Paramatta,  they  were  removed  inland  to  an  estate  on 
higher  country  at  Campbelltown,  and  there  in  1827  McArthur  de- 
veloped the  Camden  Park  stud,  the  first  breeding  establishment  of 
its  kind  in  Austraha. 

i  A  far  greater  stimulus  to  the  AustraHan  wool  industry  was,  how- 
ever, about  to  be  exerted  from  Tasmania — or  Van  Diemens  Land, 
as  the  island  was  then  called.  In  1825  a  group  of  English  capitahsts 
formed  the  Van  Diemens  Land  Co.  and  founded  a  large  pastoral 
estate  at  Circular  Head.  In  the  course  of  five  years  they  spent 
£30,000^  in  importing  merinos  from  Saxony  and  some  Cotswold  and 
other  English  sheep. 

The  majority  or  the  purchases  were  of  the  best  Saxony  types, 
descended  from  Spanish  merinos,  and  their  cost,  including  transpor- 
tation charges,  ranged  from  £14  19s.  to  £15  6s.  lOd.  per  head.  The 
reputation  of  Tasmania  as  a  breeding  center  was  further  enhanced 
in  1829  when  ^Ir.  W.  Warrington,  an  English  settler,  formed  two  sepa- 
rate stud  fiocks,  one  consisting  of  imported  Electoral  sheep  and  the 
other  of  Negrettis.  The  original  aim  of  these  Tasmanian  flockowners 
was  to  grow  wool  for  England,  and  ultimately  to  render  that  country 
independent  of  Spanish,  German,  and  other  foreign  sources  of  sup- 
ply; but  for  many  years  their  most  valuable  work  was  the  breeding 
of  merino  sheep  for  the  rapidly  multiplying  ''stations"  around  the 
coastal  fringe  of  the  Australian  mainland.  In  1820  Australia  had 
about  200,000  sheep  of  various  kinds.  A  few  samples  of  wool  had 
previously  been  sent  to  England,  but  the  provision  of  mutton  for 
domestic  use  was  still  the  chief  business  of  tne  scattered  pastoralists 
of  that  time. 

By  1830  the  industry  had  been  raised  to  a  commercial  basis.  The 
sheep  of  the  high-grade  Tasmanian  flocks  had  increased  to  60,000. 

1  In  reducing  English  moneys  the  American  reader  can  estimate  it  at  2  cents  for  the  English  penny  (d.), 
24  cents  for  the  shilling  (s.),  and  14.87  for  the  pound  sterling  (£). 

461 


INTENTIONAL  SECOND  EXPOSURE 


t 


SPECIAL  AUSTRALIAN  STUD  EWES  (UNDER  M,  YEARS).  GRAZED  AT  LARGE  ON 

NATURAL  GRASSES.  AND  UNHOUSED. 


AN  AUSTRALIAN    MERINO   RAM  THAT  SOLD  FOR  $6,000. 


SPECIAL  EEPORT   ON  THE  WOOL  raDTTSTRY  OF  THE 
AXJSTRALIAir  COMMONWEALTH. 

Sheep  were  imported  from  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  into  Australia 
as  early  as  1788  by  Capt.  Phillip,  the  first  governor  of  New  South 
Wales.  They  formed  part  of  a  small  shipment  of  various  kinds  of 
live  stock  from  which  it  was  intended  to  breed  with  a  view  to  aug- 
menting the  food  supply  of  the  colony.  But  a  definite  beginning 
with  flock  husbandry  m  Australia  was  not  made  until  1797,  when  26 
stud  sheep  of  the  Escurial  breed  were  introduced  from  the  Cape. 
Eight  of  tliese  survived  and  were  purchased  by  Capt.  John  McArthur, 
a  pioneer  settler,  who  had  securecf  a  grant  of  land  at  Paramatta,  near 
Sydney.  In  1804  (two  years  after  David  Humphrej^s  established  his 
famous  stud  flock  of  Spanish  merinos  in  Connecticut)  McArthur  im- 
ported a  few  rams  and  ewes  of  pure  Negretti  blood  which  he  had  pur- 
chased from  the  stud  of  King  George  III  at  Kew,  in  England.  As 
neither  the  Cape  nor  the  Negretti  sheep  tlirove  well  in  the  moist 
climate  of  Paramatta,  they  were  removed  inland  to  an  estate  on 
higher  country  at  Campbelltown,  and  there  in  1827  McArthur  de- 
veloped the  Camden  Park  stud,  the  first  breeding  establishment  of 
its  kind  in  Austraha. 

I  A  far  greater  stimulus  to  the  Australian  wool  industry  was,  how- 
ever, about  to  be  exerted  from  Tasmania — or  Van  Diemens  Land, 
as  the  island  was  then  called.  In  1825  a  group  of  English  capitalists 
formed  the  Van  Diemens  Land  Co.  and  founded  a  large  pastoral 
estate  at  Circular  Head.  In  the  course  of  five  years  they  spent 
£30,000*  in  importing  merinos  from  Saxony  and  some  Cotswold  and 
other  English  sheep. 

The  majority  of  the  purchases  were  of  the  best  Saxony  types, 
descended  from  Spanish  merinos,  and  their  cost,  including  transpor- 
tation charges,  ranged  from  £14  19s.  to  £15  6s.  lOd.  per  head.  The 
reputation  of  Tasmania  as  a  breeding  center  was  further  enhanced 
in  1829  when  Mr.  W.  Warrington,  an  English  settler,  formed  two  sepa- 
rate stud  flocks,  one  consisting  of  imported  Electoral  sheep  and  the 
other  of  Negrettis.  The  original  aim  of  these  Tasmanian  flockowners 
was  to  grow  wool  for  England,  and  ultimately  to  render  that  country 
independent  of  Spanish,  German,  and  other  foreign  sources  of  sup- 
ply; but  for  many  years  their  most  valuable  work  was  the  breeding 
of  merino  sheep  for  the  rapidly  multiplying  '' stations"  around  the 
coastal  fringe  of  the  Australian  mainland.  In  1820  Australia  had 
about  200,000  sheep  of  various  kinds.  A  few  samples  of  wool  had 
previously  been  sent  to  England,  but  the  provision  of  mutton  for 
domestic  use  was  still  the  cliief  business  of  tlie  scattered  pastoralists 
of  that  time. 

By  1830  the  industry  had  been  raised  to  a  commercial  basis.  The 
sheep  of  the  high-grade  Tasmanian  flocks  had  increased  to  60,000. 

» In  reducing  English  moneys  the  American  reader  can  estimate  it  at  2  cents  for  the  English  penny  (d.), 
24  cents  for  the  shilling  (s.),  and  $4.87  for  the  pound  sterling  (£). 

461 


462 


REPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOAED  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOAED  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


463 


Their  progeny  and  tliose  of  the  Camden  Park  stud  were  being  dis- 
tributed among  new  pastoral  estates  leased  from  the  Government  at 
peppercorn  rentals  or  acquired  at  very  low  purchase  rates  and  in 
most  cases  limited  in  area  only  by  the  ability  of  the  settlers  to  accu- 
mulate stock.  English  manufacturers  had  given  a  surprised  and 
emphatic  welcome  to  the  fii-st  consignments  of  fine  Australian  merino 
wool  offered  to  them.    One  parcel  of  2i  hundredweight  bad  been 

Purchased  at  3s.  3d.  per  pound,  and  another — this  from  the  Camden 
'ark  flock — at  48.  per  pound.  The  growers  were  told  that  if  they 
could  supply  such  raw  material  in  bulk  to  the  English  trade  they 
would  find  an  extensive  and  highly  profitable  market  for  it. 

Thencefor^  ard  the  Australian  wool-growing  industry  made  great 
progress.  The  conditions  were  generally  favorable  for  its  rapid 
expansion;  lai^e  tracts  of  country  were  available  in  districts  with  an 
assured  rainfall:  taxes  were  a  trifling  burden;* the  cheap  labor  of  the 
aborigines  supplemented  that  of  the  white  settlers;  the  wool  market 
offered  ample  encouragement,  and  oversea  transport  was  improving. 
By  1860  there  were  20,135,286  sheep  in  Austraha  and  Tasmania, 
comprising  6,119,163  in  New  South  Wales,  5,780,896  in  Victoria, 
3,449,350  m  Queensland,  2,824^11  in  South  Australia,  1,700,930  in 
Tasmania,  and  260,136  in  Western  Australia.  The  Tasmanian 
pastoralists  had  hoped  to  attain  a  high  position  as  suppliers  of  wool 
from  Australasia  to  tho  United  Kmjjdom.  After  35  years  their 
flocks  represented  less  than  one-twelfth  of  the  total  number  in  the 
BIX  colonies  and  their  wool  clip  amounted  to  only  one-fifth  of  the 
aggregate  annual  j^ield.  But  Tasmania  had  adhered  to  its  high 
standard  of  quahty  in  both  stud  sheep  and  wool,  and  although  nearly 
70  per  cent  of  the  wool  now  grown  on  the  island  is  crossbred,  several 
of  tne  larger  stations  still  maintain  their  old  position  without  material 
alteration. 

INFLUENCES  OF  CLIMATE. 

Pastoral  Austraha  embraces  at  least  three  distinct  varieties  of  ch- 
mate.  As  the  flockowners  of  the  mainland  spread  westward  and 
northward  from  the  coastal  belt — some  to  become  permanent  settlers 
on  vast  inland  tracts,  others  to  estabhsh  tentative  outpost  stations 
while  retaining  for  greater  security  old  properties  in  the  settled  parts 
of  the  country — they  found  it  necessary  to  seek  new  types  of  stock. 
The  fine-wooled  Saxony  and  Spanish  merinos  which  suited  Tasmania, 
the  eastern  portion  of  New  South  Wales,  and  the  southwestern  district 
of  Victoria  became  unprofitable  when  removed  to  dry  "  back  country," 
subject  to  the  severities  of  high  temperature  and  recurrent  drought  on 
unsheltered  plains.  Their  vield  declined  in  weight  by  nearly  one-half 
and  was,  in  many  cases,  only  3  pounds  of  dehcate  uneven  wool,  worth 
from  2s.  to  2s.  6a.  per  fleece. 

Through  these  and  other  experiences  the  growers  soon  learned  that, 
although  the  greater  part  of  Austraha  was  capable  of  becoming  a  vast 
sheep  run,  there  would  have  to  be  a  systematic  adjustment  of  stock 
to  the  special  conditions  of  chmate,  elevation,  and  pasturage  in  differ- 
ent temtorial  zones  and  in  different  portions  of  tlie  same  zone.  Thus 
began  a  series  of  experiments  in  crossbreeding  \^dth  English,  French, 
and  Tasmanian  sheep.  In  several  districts  the  Southdown,  iLeicester, 
and  Cotswold  varieties  were  tried  without  crossing;  but  the  results  in 
respect  of  wool  were  indifferent.     Kambouillet  rams,  which  were 


imported  between  1845  and  1854  and  mated  with  selected  merinos  of 
Tasmanian  stock,  proved  far  more  satisfactory.  The  offspring  was  a 
hardy  merino  adapted  to  the  low-rainfall  areas  of  New  South  Wales, 
South  Austraha,  and  Western  Austraha,  and  able  to  bear  prolonged 
heat  and  long-distance  travel. 

At  this  period,  however,  skilfful  sheep  breeders  were  still  a  compara- 
tively small  class  in  Australia.  Tiie  chief  interest  of  the  majority  of 
the  pastoraUsts  was  to  utilize  as  much  of  the  abundant  open  country 
as  possible.  As  wool  exporters  they  aimed  first  at  quantity  and  hoped 
to  achieve  quality  later.  An  extraordinarily  rapid  expansion  of  their 
flocks  followed.  Between  1860  and  1870  the  number  of  sheep  in  the 
country  more  than  doubled,  rising  from  20,135,286  to  41,593,612.  A 
marked  deterioration  in  the  quahty  of  the  wool  was  noted  by  the 
English  manufacturers  at  this  time  and  reflected  in  the  returns  from 
the  London  sales.  The  prices  realized  for  a  large  portion  of  the  Aus- 
trahan  chp  were  2d.  to  3id.  below  those  for  European  meruios. 

PRINCIPAL   VARIETIES   OF   SHEEP. 

Profiting  by  warnings  and  advice  from  the  London  wholesale  deal- 
ers, the  Australian  pastoralists  now  set  about  improving  their  flocks 
by  greater  care  in  selection  and  classification  and  by  further  impor- 
tations of  new  blood.  This  effort  soon  gave  an  impetus  to  the  move- 
ment, initiated  between  20  and  30  years  earlier  by  a  few  of  the  large 
studs  in  New  South  Wales  and  South  Australia,  toward  the  evolution 
of  three  distinctively  Australian  varieties  of  merino  sheep — the  fine 
wooled,  which  fare  best  on  high  lands  within  the  temperate  coastal 
zone — where  short  sweet  grasses  are  grown;  the  medium,  which  can 
bear  rougher  treatment,  but  need  rich  and  abundant  pastures;  and 
the  strong  wooled,  a  sheep  of  large  frame  and  tough  constitution, 
adapted  to  the  great  "out-back"  plains,  where  the  summer  temper- 
ature frequently  exceeds  90°  in  the  shade  and  the  food  during  several 
weeks  in  each  year  consists  of  sparse  dry  grass  or  salt  bush.  The 
average  hve  weights  of  the  three  types  are  as  follows: 

Fine  merino  stud  ram,  100  pounds;  ewe,  80  pounds. 
Medium  merino  etud  ram,  140  pounds;  ewe,  110  pounds. 
Strong-wooled  merino  ram,  160  pounds;  ewe,  150  pounds. 

Throughout  their  many  experiments  in  selection  and  crossing,  the 
majority  of  the  Austrahan  breeders  have  aimed  at  the  development 
of  a  lai^e-bodied  animal,  providing  the  maximum  surface  area  for 
the  growth  of  wool  and  at  the  same  tune  a  carcass  fairly  attractive 
to  the  butcher.  That  this  double  object  has  been  attained,  without 
material  deviation  as  regards  quality  of  wool  from  the  essential 
characteristics  of  the  true  merino  t^^pe,  can  not  be  doubted  by  anyone 
who  has  seen  the  Austrahan  flocks  of  to-day. 

THE   AUSTRALIAN   STUDS. 

Of  44  studs  noted  for  the  high  quality  of  their  stock,  30  now  sup- 

Sthe  industry  with  sheep  of  the  large-framed  type,  which  produce 
eavy  fleece  of  merino  wool  described  by  experts  as  "robust,  bright, 
dense,  and  lustrous."  The  rams  yield  from  25  to  30  pounds.  Weights 
of  32  to  35  pounds  have  been  recorded  in  a  few  instances.  On  the 
Burrawang  estate,  in  the  central  division  of  New  South  Wales   a 


I' 


i:  i. 


464  ■        BEFOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON   SCHEDUU!  K. 

^  1  *  -70  nrtn  aVioflii  nt  this  large  merino  type  recently  cut  an  average 
flock  of  73,630  ^««P  ^"^^'Sock  of  22,000  shorn  at  Booboorowie, 
of  10  pounds  each,  and  a  s™^*^  ""^^°  „!  -unces      On  the  Egalabra 

f^Uowi^e  II™' r« Prerecorded  during  the  clip  of  1909-10: 
foUowmg  average  im.u  pounds  8*  ounces  each;  1,2/9 

Two  hundred  ««d  forty-one  rwns   17  p^un        ,        ^^     ^^^^^  ^^^ 

*■*""«.  T645l,Veedi^  ei^,  10  pou^^^^^^  ounces;  ^601  mixed 
VZ^h  SS   10  po^dsToi  ounces.    Such  returns,  however,  are 

The  general  ''^^'^t /f  l-i^^^^i^^'^^^^  one  of 

merinos  IS  between  7  ai.d  8  pounds^     ineov^^^  AustraUa 

thSe  Sai-iflS^intesTipTy  '^{^"^rsLratnu^a?? 

&f-  averS  weight  of  fliece  from  grown  sheep,  8  pounds  10 
oZces;rd  ff^m  Ss,  2  pounds  5  ounces;  general  average  weight 
of  fleece  (sheep  and  lambs)  7  PO"^''^^  ounces  ^fashions" 

rru^  Tvi/\cf  QllPf»l^^^flll  stud  owners  are  inose  wiio,  wuu^    x€*o 
inTfocrwerrchSg  at  short  inten-als  and  frequent  importations 
S  foretn  Wood  we?^till  being  made,  kept  the  n^^^^f f  ^^i^ J^-'^^t^,^ 
the  VSrv  steadily  in  view,  foresaw  that  the  majontj^.of  t^  ?f  %of 
ihsts  wou7d  ultimaily  be  driven  b^ck  into  the  dnera-^^^^  the 

B^vflnre  of  affricultural  settlement,  and  were  a* '"Vf    j 
Simi^'^ul  oK  possibilities  of  the  ^-^^y^^^^^Xtn^^ool- 
%  is  noteworthy  that  *«  rams  n^wmgrejea^^^^^^^ 
growers  ('«.'h«tmgu,shed  from  W  ^  ^^  ^^^^^ 

^vsrrtuTls'ranS- htrt^o^^^^^ 

Zl  do'sl  br Jding  to  pJfduce  the  Austrahan  -^^^^^^ 
nlrAndv  indicated.     For  example,  four  or  the  oesx  siuus  m  i^tsw 

?Ji?n4  with  .  »«fiJl  jWch  .v»«f  ks.  'h«  \l^^^-^J^^ 
Kc  ,"  3«  »  "Si  «"'=»  merinos  .r.  yo«  m  j  totnot  of 


BEPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOABD   ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


465 


have  frequently  been  made  from  it  for  the  improvement  of  the  South 
African  and  South  American  flocks.  Several  of  the  breeding  stations 
in  Queensland,  South  Australia,  and  Western  Austraha  have  an 
admixture  of  Wanganella  blood. 

The  Hawker,  Canowie,  Booboorowie,  Hill  River,  and  Bungaree 
studs  in  South  Austraha  produce  almost  perfectly  plain-bodied  sheep, 
which  are  slightly  larger  than  the  corresponding  type  of  merino  stock 
in  New  South  Wales  and  Queensland.  The  South  Australians  ascribe 
their  success  largely  to  the  fact  that  they  have  always  avoided  breed- 
ing ''foldv"  stock.  Folds,  they  assert,  have  a  tendency  to  weaken 
the  constitution  of  the  sheep  on  which  they  are  developed.  At  some 
of  the  South  Austrahan  studs  early  experiments  were  made  with 
Saxony  and  Spanish  rams;  but  at  Boonoke  and  Wanganella  better 
results  were  obtained  with  Rambouillet  sheep,  and  iiltimately  the 
owners  decided  to  rely  exclusively  upon  selections  from  the  best  of 
their  own  stock.  , 

At  one  South  Austrahan  stud,  the  Mount  Crawford  (which  differs 
from  those  already  named  by  being  near  the  coast,  in  a  relatively 
high  rainfall  area),  close  breeding  has  been  carried  on  during  more 
than  60  years.  Here  again,  notwithstanding  the  difference  in  ch- 
mate,  a  preference  for  the  large,  strong-wooled  merino  has  been  shown. 
The  fine-wooled  merinos  are  confined  chiefly  to  portions  of  Tasmania, 
the  New  England  district  in  the  eastern  division  of  New  South  Wales, 
Mudgee,  and  the  southern  district  of  Victoria.  But  even  in  Tas- 
mama,  which  was  long  preeminent  in  the  fine-wooled  class,  the 
majority  of  the  stud  owners  are  now  breeding  strong-wooled  merinos 
and  crossbreds.  Along  the  coastal  fringe  of  Austraha,  and  more  par- 
ticularly in  the  temperate  southern  districts,  some  Romney  Marsh, 
Cotswold,  Leicester,  I^incoln,  and  crossbred  sheep  are  found.  These 
are  kept  primarily  to  supply  the  export  trade  in  mutton  and  lamb. 
Vermont  rams  were  tried  a  few  years  in  New  South  Wales.  Their 
introduction  into  several  well-known  flocks  added  to  the  density  of 
the  merino  fleece,  but  this  gain  was  more  than  counterbalanced  by  a 
shortening  of  the  staple,  an  excessive  addition  of  grease,  and  other 
disadvantages,  with  tne  result  that  the  Vermonts  fell  out  of  favor  and 
are  no  longer  used. 

EFFECTS   OF   DROUGHT   ON   THE   FLOCKS. 

There  are  now  approximately  100,000,000  sheep  in  Australia. 
This  estimate  is  based  upon  statistics  coUected  from  pastorahsts 
and  firms  in  the  wool  trade.  Official  figures  for  1910  are  not  yet 
available.  The  complete  returns  for  1909  show  46,194,178  sheep 
in  New  South  Wales,  19,593,791  in  Queensland,  12,937,983  in  Vic- 
toria, 6,475,431  in  South  Austraha,  4,731,737  in  Western  Australia, 
and  1,734,761  in  Tasmania.  According  to  the  treasurer's  budget 
statement  for  1910-11  there  were  91,667,881  sheep  in  the  Common- 
wealth in  1909,  but  a  later  calculation  supphed  by  the  Federal 
statistician  gives  the  total  as  92,044,874.  This,  as  will  be  seen  by 
reference  to  Appendix  A,  was  exceeded  in  the  years  1890  to  1894, 
the  maximum  being  reached  in  1892,  when  the  sheep  in  the  six 
States  numbered  103,272,068. 

The  calamitous  drought  which  began  in  the  latter  half  of  the 
decade  1890-1900  and  culminated  in  1902  reduced  the  flocks  by 


32080*— H.  Doc.  342,  62-2,  vol  1- 


^0 


466 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOABO  ON  SCHEDXJUB  K. 


BEPOET  OF  TABIFF  BOABO  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


467 


I 


m\ 


I 


44,212,874.  At  the  end  of  1902  the  number  of  sheep  in  the  Common- 
wealth stood  at  53,668,347,  and  it  is  a  remarkable  evidence  of  the 
natural  recuperative  power  of  the  country  that  within  the  succeed- 
ing eight  years  the  total  should  have  been  increased  by  about 
44,000,000.  The  normal  yearly  expansion  of  the  Australian  flocks 
is  being  materially  retarded  by  the  increasing  demands  of  the  meat 
trade.  In  1901  the  number  of  sheep  slaughtered  in  the  Common- 
wealth for  home  consumption  and  export  was  8,970,000;  in  1910  the 
total  (estimated)  was  12,000,000. 

PRODUCTION   AND   EXPORT   OF   WOOL. 

Details  of  the  production  of  wool  in  AustraUa  during  the  past  10 
years  are  given  in  Appendix  B.  According  to  the  statistician  of  the 
Commonwealth,  who  is  unable  to  supply  complete  figures  for  a  later 
date  than  December  31,  1909,  the  wool  produced  in  that  year 
amounted  to  718,037,132  pounds,  valued  at  £27,825,000.  The  value 
of  the  wool  exported  from  the  Commonwealth  during  11  months  of 
1910 — up  to  November  30 — is  provisionally  estimated  by  the  stat- 
istician at  £23,677,780.  Of  the  quantity  produced  in  1909,  8,261,658 
pounds  were  used  locally,  the  balance  or  709,775,474  pounds  being 
available  for  oversea  shipment.  The  average  declared  value  of  the 
wool  exported  in  that  year  was  9s.  3 Id.,  as  compared  with  9s.  lOd. 
in  1908,  10s.  61d.  in  1907,  10s.  8d.  in  1906,  9s.  77d.  in  1905,  9s.  19d. 
in  1904,  8s.  76d.  in  1903,  7s.  94d.  in  1902,  and  7s.  19d.  in  1901. 
Dalgety  &  Co.,  the  leading  firm  of  wool  brokers  in  Australia  and 
most  accurate  compilers  of  statistics  in  the  trade,  have  supplied  a 
statement,  which  will  be  foimd  in  Appendix  D,  of  the  quantities 
(in  bales)  of  wool  exported  from  the  Commonwealth  during  the 
last  10  years. 

It  will  be  observed  that  a  rapid  advance  in  the  exports  took  place 
after  the  recovery  of  the  pastoral  industry  from  the  prolonged 
drought.  The  figures,  unlike  those  of  the  Government  statistician, 
represent  an  attempt  to  deal  with  the  cUps  separately.  Each  group 
therefore  refers  to  operations  in  the  second  half  of  one  year  and  the 
first  half  of  the  next.  The  exports  rose  from  1,218,969  bales  in 
1904-5  to  1,921,507  bales  in  1909-10.  Later  information  indicated 
a  possibility  that  the  AustraUan  exports  during  the  1910-11  season 
which  ended  on  June  30,  1911,  might  amount  for  the  first  time  in  the 
history  of  the  industry  to  2,000,000  bales.  The  exports  of  1909-10 
were  composed  of  86  per  cent  of  merino  and  14  per  cent  of  cross- 
bred and  other  strong  wools.  The  sources  of  the  two  main  classes  of 
wool  are  substanti  Uy  indicated  by  the  following  returns  from  local 
sales  held  at  the  five*  principal  export  centers  of  the  Commonwealth 
in  1910: 


IM'^tl- 


Sjdney... 

Melbourne 
Brisbane.. 
Adelaide.. 


Merino. 


Bales. 


779,832 
246,049 
174,313 
124,727 
8,700 


Per  cent. 


95 
68 
97 
90 
45 


Crossbred. 


Bales. 


38,498 

115,788 

6,226 

13,868 

10,928 


Per  cent. 


5 
32 

3 
10 
55 


MABKET    PRICES. 

In  1900-1901,  when  all  wool  was  abnormally  cheap,  the  local 
wholesale  price  of  average  quality  merino  in  the  grease  was  down  to 
7Jd-  P^r  pound;  since  1901-2  it  has  varied  from  8fd.  to  lid.  The 
top  prices  for  superior  greasy  fluctuated  in  the  course  of  10  years 
from  13}d.  to  2 Id.  per  pound,  and  those  for  average  quality  scoured 
rose  from  14id.  to  21^(1.  (See  Appendix  E.)  In  the  second  half  of 
the  decade  values  generally  have  remained  high  in  spite  of  the  great 
increase  in  production.  At  the  first  series  of  the  1910-11  sales 
prices  dropped,  as  compared  with  the  previous  year's,  by  15  per 
cent  on  fine  merinos,  and  an  average  of  5  per  cent  on  all  classes  of 
wool.  The  chief  cause  of  this  decline  was  a  report  persistently  cir- 
culated in  Europe  that  the  Austrahan  and  New  Zealand  clips  would 
show  an  increase  of  between  200,000  and  250,000  bales. 

Shortly  before  the  close  of  1910  it  became  evident  that  the  actual 
increase  would  not  exceed  100,000  bales  and  might,  indeed,  not  quite 
reach  that  number,  with  the  result  that  prices  at  the  opening  of  the 
second  series  of  sales  in  January  were  firm  and  soon  exhibited  an 
upward  tendency.  Medium  greasy  merino  was  sold  at  an  average  of 
11  id.  per  pound  and  superior  at  13  id.  For  the  fleece  portion  of 
well-known  clips  from  New  South  Wales,  South  Australia,  and 
Queensland  prices  ranging  from  14Jd.  to  20d.  were  obtained  in 
London.  Crossbred  and  ^'comeback"  wools  have  been  in  strong 
demand  in  Europe  during  the  past  few  years,  and  especially  among 
the  manufacturers  of  Yorkshire  and  France,  the  prices  for  the  higher 
grades  in  both  classes  frequently  equaling  those  paid  for  good 
merino. 

The  large  increase  during  the  past  10  years  in  the  aggregate  of  the 
AustraUan  and  New  Zealand  clips,  which  amounted  in  1909-10  to 
2,434,643  bales,  has  been  coincident  with  a  high  average  of  prices 
throughout  the  greater  part  of  the  decade.  That  is  a  striking  fact 
worthy  of  attention  in  connection  with  any  study  of  the  condition 
and  future  commercial  possibilities  of  the  Austrahan  wool  industry. 
Although  the  supply  of  the  raw  material  increases,  it  remains  for  the 
present  within  the  world's  demand;  in  fact,  it  would  appear  from 
statistics  pubUshed  that  production  has  failed  of  late  to  keep  pace 
with  the  mcrease  of  the  wool-using  peoples.  The  statistics  show 
that  'Hhe  quantity  of  clean  wool  at  the  disposal  of  the  industry  (not 
the  quantity  actually  consumed  in  the  form  of  manufactures)  was 
?o..i  ?  average  of  periods  as  follows  per  head  of  the  population: 
186\~1870,  2.26  pounds;  1871-1880,  2.43  pounds  (mcrease,  7i  per 
cent);  1881-1890,  2.57  pounds  (increase,  6  per  cent);  1891-1900, 
2.76  pounds  (increase,  7i  per  cent);  1900-1909,  2.64  pounds  (de- 
crease, 4i  per  cent).  ^ 

These  figures  help  to  explain  why  efforts  made  within  the  past  six 
months  to  bear"  the  European  wool  market  have  had  only  a  slight 
temporary  effect.  "^        ^ 

Manufacturers  in  France,  England,  and  Germany  declare  that  they 
must  have  cheaper  wool,  and  that  the  price  of  the  standard  64s  tops 
should  not  be  permitted  to  exceed  2s.  2d.  But  in  general  they  go  on 
paying  what  the  measure  of  the  current  market  supply  dictates. 
Meanwhile,  the  prosperity  of  their  industry  is  undeniable.  In 
i^ngland  most  of  the  factories  are  being  worked  at  high  pressure. 


Ill 


468  BEPOBT  OF  TAKIFP  BOAED  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 

The  value  of  mill  property  in  Yorkshire  is  estimated  to  have  increased 
of  late  by  25  per  cent,  and  new  machinery  is  being  mstalled  m  many 
instances. 

THE   AMERICAN   DEMAND. 

In  the  principal  AiistraUan  markets,  as  in  London,  the  American 
demand  usually  has  a  marked  influence  on  the  returns  from  all  light, 
high-grade  merino  and  crossbred  wools;  for  though  the  quantity 
purchased  in  each  season  for  shipment  to  the  Umted  States  is  relatively 
small,  the  prices  paid  for  it  are  high,  and  have  a  tendency  to  keep  up 
values  for  all  wools  of  the  same  description.  Brokers  state  that, 
although  the  American  purchases  made  in  the  1909-10  season  repre- 
sented only  7  per  cent  of  the  total  clip,  they  influenced  the  prices  of 
between  400,000  and  500,000  bales. 

It  is  understood  in  the  export  trade  that  the  general  purpose  of  the 
American  buyers,  dictated  to  a  large  extent  by  tariff  considerations, 
is  to  secure  wool  which  wiU  give  the  highest  yield  when  scoured; 
that  they  are  obliged,  under  present  circumstances,  to  so  limit  the 
scope  of  their  choice  as  to  incur  at  tunes  the  disadvantage  of  excessive 
competition  among  themselves;  and  that  again,  on  account  of  the 
United  States  customs  duties,  they  are  unable  to  purchase  scoured 
wool  and  certain  classes  of  superior  greasy  wools  which,  but  for  theu: 
heavy  condition,  would  be  well  suited  to  American  requirements. 

The  sales  at  which  the  representatives  of  American  houses  make 
the  majority  of  their  purchases  are  those  held  at  Melbourne  and 
Geelong,  but  they  give  some  attention  in  turn  to  the  New  South 
Wales,  Tasmanian,  and  other  Australian  markets.  Buyers  from 
Boston,  New  York,  Worcester,  and  San  Francisco  attended  sales  at 
Geelong  as  early  as  1871-72,  and  since  that  season  the  annual  dis- 
play of  ^'Geelong  wool"— a  designation  applied  chiefly  to  the  clean 
fine  merino  wools  of  western  Victoria— has  regularly  attracted 
representatives  of  the  American  trade.  The  business  of  the  Geelong 
safes  has  been  built  up  mainly  by  the  direct  demand  from  the  Umted 
States,  and  the  principal  local  authority,  who  speaks  from  40  years 
experience  of  the  trade,  frankly  admits  that  a  reduction  of  the 
American  duties  woidd  cause  serious  loss  to  the  brokers  at  that 
center  by  enabling  the  buyers  to  purchase  more  largely  elsewhere. 
The  prices  for  Victorian  wools  bought  on  American  account  have  not 
shown  any  considerable  variation  m  recent  years.  The  averages  of 
those  bought  in  the  1909-10  season  are  as  foUows: 

Choice  western  district  merino i «  J^  }?i 

Superior  western  district  merino |^  J^  :J'J 

Good  weetem  district  merino i  r  J^  ipf 

Bc8t  Riverina  merino jq  t    14 

Good  Riverina  merino T^  *    T o i 

Choice  western  district  comeback  (588  quality) 11  ^    ! a! 

Superior  western  district  comeback j^  J^  104 

Western  district  fine  crossbred  (508  quality)..... it*\L 

Western  district  medium  crossbred  (468  quality) ! V  ^  i? 

Western  district  crossbred  (408  quality) IJ  to  id 

A  table  given  in  Appendix  F  includes  figures  which  show  the  prin- 
cipal Australian  sources  of  the  wools  bought  for  the  Umted  States 
during  the  past  five  years.  Of  the  total  quantity  of  wool  sold  m  Aus- 
tralia, the  United  States  took  about  4i  per  cent  in  1905-6,  71  per 


BEPOBT   OF   TABIFF   BOABD   ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


469 


cent  in  1906-7,  3f  per  cent  in  1907-8,  61  per  cent  in  1908-9,  and  7  per 
cent  in  1909-10. 

In  the  first  series  of  the  1910-11  sales  in  Australia  the  Americans 
bought  sparingly  and  at  prices  averaging  15  per  cent  below  those  paid 
by  mem  in  the  previous  year.  The  caution  exhibited  by  their  opera- 
tions was  a  notable  feature  of  the  sales.  It  was  attributed  to  failure 
of  the  American  market  to  absorb  a  considerable  portion  of  the  for- 
eign wools  purchased  for  it  in  1909-10.  Reports  from  Bradford 
stated  that  these  unused  wools,  which  included  4,000  or  5,000  bales 
from  Australasia  and  the  Cape,  had  been  shipped  to  England  and  sold 
at  prices  substantially  lower  than  those  originally  paid  for  them — in 
some  cases,  it  is  stated,  at  a  loss  of  £4  to  £5  per  bale.  In  1909-10 
the  Americans  bought  106,000  bales  in  Australia.  An  estimate  made 
by  one  of  their  number  puts  the  probable  total  of  their  purchases  in 
1910-11  in  these  markets  at  30,000  bales.  The  bulk  of  the  fine  wools 
passed  by  them  this  season  are  being  bought  for  contiaental  Europe. 

DEVELOPMENT  OF  AUSTRALIAN  SALES. 

Pastoralists  and  brokers  predict  that  while  Bradford  rates  will  con- 
tinue to  govern  prices  in  the  Australian  markets,  London  will  soon 
virtually  cease  to  be  a  selling  center  for  Australian  wool,  except  in  the 
case  of  a  few  high-class  clips  and  a  small  portion  of  the  scoured  wool. 
About  52  per  cent  of  the  New  Zealand  wool  clip  is  still  sent  to  the 
English  market.  In  the  season  1909-10,  85  per  cent  of  the  total 
Australian  clip  was  sold  locally. 

The  advantage  in  price  gained  in  London  has  gradually  declined, 
and  often  it  is  more  than  counterbalanced  by  the  delay  and  extra 
expense  incurred  in  dealing  there.  Freight,  insurances,  storage,  dock 
dues,  and  other  charges  add  from  20s.  to  30s.  per  bale  to  the  cost  of 
selling  in  the  English  market.  The  amount  fluctuates  in  accordance 
with  changes  in  freight,  exchange,  and  the  weight  of  the  bales.  Even 
when  a  grower  gets  a  better  price  in  London,  after  allowing  for  the 
extra  charges,  he  has  been  obliged  to  wait  many  weeks  for  it.  Should 
his  shipment  miss  the  sale  for  which  it  was  iatended,  he  may  have  to 
wait  two  months  for  the  next  sale.  In  the  meantime  storage  and 
insurance  charges  are  accumulating,  and  five  or  six  months  may 
elapse  between  the  shearing  of  the  wool  in  Australia  and  the  receipt 
of  the  complete  returns  from  London.  The  Australian  grower  who 
disposes  of  nis  clip  at  the  nearest  port  in  his  ovm  country  is  paid  14 
days  after  the  sale. 

A  Sydney  broker  states: 

The  Australian  market  has  been  built  up  by  quick  returns.  A  pastoralist  soon 
knows,  after  his  wool  is  shorn,  how  he  will  stand  financially  during  the  ensuing  12 
months;  adjusting  outlay  to  his  resources  he  can  embark  at  once  on  necessary  im- 
provements which  he  could  not  undertake  with  equal  security  and  satisfaction  if  he 
had  shipped  his  clip  to  London.  Another  reason  why  Australian  selling  is  preferred 
by  the  majority  of  the  growers  is  that  they  like  to  come  to  town  at  the  close  of  the 
shearing  and  "have  a  say"  in  the  business  of  selling  their  clips.  Many  of  them  are 
close  bargainers,  and  in  their  anxiety  to  gain  the  distinction  as  well  as  the  advantage 
of  top  prices  they  put  excessive  reserves  on  their  wool  which  are  not  reached  at  the 
auctions.  But  it  is  always  open  to  them,  or  their  brokers,  to  make  subsequent  private 
flales. 

The  close  personal  relations  between  the  Austrahan  growers  and  the 
brokers  have  undoubtedly  helped  to  expand  the  latter's  business  at 


m 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


EEPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


471 


m 


iti 


the  expense  of  the  London  trade.    Moreover,  as  a  Geelong  broker 
points  out: 

One  manufacturer  after  another  haa  learned  by  experience  that  if  he  is  to  have  a  first 
choice  of  a  new  Australian  clip  he  must  come  to  the  place  ot  production.  The  station 
owners  who  continue  to  sell  in  London  do  so  imrtly  through  aentiment  and  old  asso- 
ciations.  In  time,  almost  the  whole  of  the  Austrahan  clip  will  be  sold.locally.  The 
general  anticipation  of  this  in  the  trade  is  shown  by  the  erecUon  of  immense  wool 
stores  and  showrooms  in  every  State. 

The  only  fault  of  the  Austrahan  system  is  that  there  are  too  many 
selHng  centers.  Brokers  suggest  that  one  senes  of  sales  m  the 
capital  city  of  each  State,  or  six  series  m  all,  should  suffice.  Of  the 
wool  sold  during  the  1909-10  season  in  the  Austrahan  market  65 
per  cent  was  purchased  by  contmental  Europe  and  21i  per  cent  by 
the  United  Kmgdom.  The  balance  of  12^  per  cent  was  distributed 
between  Japan,  the  United  States,  India,  and  the  Austrahan  manu- 

TfLf*tiirei*8 

It  is  evident  from  a  comparison  of  prices  paid  in  the  European 
markets  durmg  the  past  10  years  that  m  respect  of  average  quahty,  as 
weU  as  of  quantity,  Australia  contmues  to  lead  the  world  m  mermo- 
wool  production.  Its  flockmasters  are,  however,  feehng  the  compe- 
tition of  the  mdustry  m  South  Africa,  which  has  been  strengthened  by 
the  importation  of  15,000  Austrahan  stud  sheep  within  the  past  six 
years  The  Austrahans  recognize  that  tins  rivalry  will  soon  become 
^'serious"  (they  do  not  fear  that  of  Argentma  to  the  same  extent),  and 
suggestions  have  been  made  at  intervals  that  the  exportation  of  stud 
sheep  from  Austraha  to  South  Africa  should  be  prohibited.  Such  ac- 
tion is  not  hkely  to  be  taken,  for  various  reasons,  though  there  could 
be  urged  m  its  support  the  prohibition  of  the  export  of  ostriches  and 
Angora  goats  from  South  Africa. 

LOCAL   CONSUMPTION   OF   WOOL. 

There  are  21  woolen  factories  in  the  Commonwealth,  of  which 
9  are  in  Victoria,  5  m  New  South  Wales,  4  m  Tasmama,  2  in  South 
Australia,  and  1  m  Queensland.  They  used  6,024,442  Po.^^ds  of 
wool  m  1901,  6,033,704  pounds  m  1902,  6,313,509  pounds  m  1903, 
6,062,751  pounds  in  1904,  6,891,036  pounds  m  1905,  7,249,151  pounds 
iii  1906,  8^309,063  pounds  m  1907,  9,114,157  pounds  m  1908,  and 
8  261,658  pounds  m  1909.  The  aggregate  of  tlie  capital  employed 
ii  the  m(histryis  estunated  at  £617  000,  and  the  latest  statistics 
available  place  the  value  of  the  annual  production  at  £575,000. 

Although  the  manufacturers  are  protected  by  a  custoins  levy  of 
30  per  cent  on  foreign  piece  goods  and  25  per  cent  on  British,  they 
sav  that  they  do  not  hope  for  a  rapid  expansion  of  their  busmess,  as 
the  cost  of  labor  is  50  per  cent  aTi)ove  the  English  average  and  is 
gradually  gomg  still  higher.  On  this  account,  and  for  additional 
reasons  of  a  teclinical  character,  their  production  is  hmited  cliiefly 
to  flannels,  blankets,  rugs,  the  commoner  class  of  tweeds,  and  other 
goods  which  do  not  involve  much  complexity  m  the  processes  of  their 
manufacture.  Some  worsteds  come  from  two  of  the  nulls,  but  they 
make  a  very  small  contribution  to  the  annual  output.  The  bulk 
of  these  Austrahan  goods,  though  sound  m  material,  are  deficient 
m  finish  and  inferior  in  attractiveness  to  competing  European  goods 
of  the  same  classes.    The  latter  are  preferred  by  most  of  the  con- 


sumers^ whose  general  prosperity  enables  them  to  pay  without 
hesitation  the  liigher  prices  charged  for  the  imported  articles.  The 
annual  importations  of  apparel  into  the  Commonwealth  are  valued 
at  £14,000,000,  which  includes  about  £3,000,000  worth  of  woolen 
goods.  Apparently  many  years  will  elapse  before  the  purchases 
of  raw  material  for  the  factories  in  Austraha  will  have  any  consid- 
erable influence  on  prices. 

SURPLUS   STOCK  AND  THE   MUTTON   TRADE. 

The  majority  of  the  pastoralists  in  Australia  who  grow  merino  wool, 
including  all  owners  of  large  flocks  occuping  low-rainfall  areas  dis- 
tant from  the  principal  ports,  are  interested  in  the  meat  trade  only 
to  the  extent  tnat  it  offers  them  a  convenient  outlet  for  the  disposal 
of  their  surplus  stock.  Since  the  preference  for  the  big-framed 
"Australian  merino"  became  general  among  them,  they  have  had  a 
fairly  substantial  class  of  sheep  for  slaughter;  but  that  circumstance 
has  been  merely  incidental  to  the  pursuit  of  their  main  aim — the 
increase  of  their  annual  clip — which  they  had  in  view  long  before  the 
frozen  meat  trade  assumea  its  present  importance.  In  the  two  States 
which  supply  more  than  two-thirds  of  the  Commonwealth's  annual 
product  of  wool  the  sheep  and  lambs  slaughtered  are  still  chiefly  of 
the  standard  breed.  Firms  in  the  meat  trade  say  that  90  per  cent 
of  the  full-grown  mutton  carcasses  exported  from  New  South  Wales 
and  between  90  and  95  per  cent  of  tnose  shipped  from  Queensland 
are  merinos.  The  proportion  of  crossbred  to  merino  exported  from 
Victoria  and  South  Australia  is  estimated  at  from  35  to  40  per  cent. 
The  best  mutton  sheep  are  raised  on  small  stations  and  farms  situated 
in  well-watered  districts  within  200  miles  of  the  coast.  Agricultur- 
ists who  alternate  the  production  of  grain  crops  with  sheep-farming 
choose,  as  a  rule,  only  such  stock  as  will  yield  crossbred  wool  of  the 
class  most  in  demand  as  well  as  a  good-sized  carcass. 

As  yet,  few  of  the  stock  owners  specialize  in  sheep  exclusively  for 
the  meat  market.  The  Shropshire  oreed  attracted  much  attention 
a  few  years  ago,  but  it  is  now  going  out  of  favor  (except  among 
farmers  in  South  Australia  who  grow  lambs  only),  owing  to  the 
coarseness  of  its  wool.  The  varieties  of  crossbred  sheep  most  gener- 
ally kept  are  the  Lincoln  merino,  the  Leicester  merino,  and  the  come- 
back. The  last  named  is  a  three-quarter  bred  merino,  produced  by 
first  mating  a  Lincoln  ram  with  a  merino  ewe,  and  then  mating  a 
merino  ram  with  the  progeny.  A  farmer's  flock  of  100  comeback 
ewes  will  clip  on  the  average  7  pounds  of  wool,  worth  9d.  per  pound, 
and  give  from  80  to  90  per  cent  of  lambs,  which  mature  in  four  months 
and  are  then  saleable  at  from  10s.  to  12s.  per  head.  Romney  Marsh, 
Dorset  horn,  Hampshire  Down,  and  Border  Leicester  sheep  are  being 
used  experimentally  on  a  small  scale  with  a  view  to  supplying  the 
mutton  trade,  but  it  remains  to  be  seen  whether  prices  tor  exported 
frozen  meat  will  rise  sufficiently  to  justify  displacement  of  the  cross- 
breds  which,  as  already  indicated,  owe  their  popularity  largely  to 
the  quality  of  their  wool. 

The  mam  tendency  at  present  is  toward  improvement  of  the  exist- 
ing flocks  from  which  the  bulk  of  the  exported  mutton  and  lamb  is 
drawn.    The  sheep  are  fed  on  natural  grasses,  stubbles,  and  in  some 


472 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFP  BOAED  ON  SCHEDUI^  K. 


BEPOBT  OF  TAEIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


473 


i 


1 


instances  on  light  oat  crops  which  are  grown  on  "resting"  agricultural 
land  before  it  is  fallowed.  There  is  no  general  recourse  to  strong 
fattening  fodders  such  as  those  used  in  several  parts  of  the  United 
States — notably  in  Colorado — and  in  England.  The  prices  received 
by  the  grower  on  delivery  for  medium  five  sheep  at  the  exporting 
centers  average  10s.  per  head  for  shorn,  16s.  to  20s.  for  sheep  in  the 
wool,  and  lis.  for  lambs.  The  best  South  Australian  crossbred 
wethers  sell  in  the  Adelaide  market  at  25s.  to  30s.  each  in  the  wool, 
and  yield  an  average  of  85  pounds  of  dressed  mutton.  Though  such 
returns  are  exceptional,  they  illustrate  what  can  be  done  with  the 
right  class  of  sheep,  fed  on  ordinary  grasses  witliin  the  Australian 
coastal  belt. 

There  can  be  no  doubt  that  the  export  of  frozen  mutton  and  lamb 
is  capable  of  being,  and  will  be,  extended  far  beyond  its  present 
limits  in  the  near  future.  How  quickly  the  Australian  grower  and 
the  exporter  are  able  to  respond  to  a  moderate  improvement  in  Euro- 
pean prices  is  shown  by  current  statistics.  In  the  six  months  from 
July  1  to  December  31,  1910,  Austraha  exported  1,391,576  carcasses 
of  mutton  and  1,301,901  carcasses  of  lamb;  an  increase  in  the  two 
classes  of  meat  of  95.3,050  carcasses  upon  the  total  for  the  second  half 
of  1909.  The  refrigeratiog  plants  in  New  South  Wales  are  capable 
of  treating  22,600  carcasses  per  day  and  have  a  storage  capacity  of 
615,000  carcasses.  Those  in  Victoria  have  an  aggregate  capacity  of 
27,250  carcasses  per  day  and  storage  for  480,000.  Additions  are 
rapidly  being  made  to  the  equipment  in  these  two  principal  meat- 
exporting  States,  and  also  to  that  in  Queensland.  It  is  estimated  that 
the  exports  of  mutton  to  the  United  Kingdom  for  the  year  ending 
July  31,  1911,  will  approximate  3,000,000  carcasses,  and  those  of 
lamb  1,700,000  carcasses.  The  total  value  of  the  exports  will,  at  the 
present  rate  of  expansion,  soon  reach  £2,000,000  per  annum. 

On  the  question  whether  current  prices  for  meat  will  be  maintained 
there  are  differences  of  opinion  among  Government  experts  and  the 
heads  of  the  principal  exporting  firms,  but  all  agree  that  the  develop- 
ment of  the  export  trade  must  be  accelerated  in  order  to  cope  with  the 
increase  in  the  surplus  stock,  and  that  the  industry  will  continue  to 
give  an  adequate  return  on  London  wholesale  prices  averaging  over 
a  period  of  years  3d.  per  pound  for  mutton  and  4d.  per  pound  for 
lamb.  The  charge  for  sea  transport  to  England  is  five-eighths  of  a 
penny  per  pound  on  both  classes  of  meat.  One  high  authority  in  ihe 
export  trade  says  that  Australia  could  profitably  dispose  of  large 
supplies  of  frozen  mutton  to  the  United  States  at  2d.  per  pound  f.  o.  b. 
This  statement  was  made  in  connection  with  a  calculation  that  if 
there  be  no  recurrence  of  serious  drought,  the  flocks  in  the  Common- 
wealth will  increase  within  the  next  three  years  to  120,000,000.  The 
contraction  of  the  world's  total  supplies  of  mutton  and  the  oppor- 
tunity presented  by  the  growing  local  stock  surplus  give  AustraUa  a 
double  incentive  to  proceed  with  the  further  development  of  its  meat 
trade,  and  this  can  be  undertaken  without  risk  of  any  considerable 
interference  with  the  wool  industry. 


I 


THE   PASTORAL  LANDS. 

The  first  of  the  main  factors  which  have  to  be  taken  into  account  in 
considering  more  closely  the  business  aspect  of  wool  growing  in 
Australia  is  tiie  cheapness  of  the  land  on  all  of  the  greater  pastoral 
areas.  Climatic  conditions  and  the  restriction  of  railway  facilities 
have  tended  throughout  the  country  to  confine  agricultural  produc- 
tion and  dairy  farming  chiefly  to  '' alienated"  land  (i.  e.,  freehold) 
and  land  in  process  of  being  purchased  from  the  Governments. 
These  areas  are  approximately  within  250  miles  of  the  coast,  and  it  is 
estimated  (complete  figures  are  not  obtainable)  that  they  contribute 
about  one-fifth  of  the  country 's  total  yearly  wool  clip.  The  propor- 
tion will  increase.  Grain  production  is  almost  everywhere  impeded 
by  scarcity  of  efficient  labor.  Wliile  this  handicap  remains — and  it 
can  be  removed  only  by  a  large  increase  of  immigration — the  Austra- 
lian farmers  will  continue  to  combine  sheep  raising  with  agriculture. 
From  three  to  four  times  as  many  sheep  can  usually  be  maintained  in 
such  conditions  on  a  given  area  of  land  as  were  provided  for  on  the 
same  area  when  it  was  used  solely  for  pastoral  purposes  and  no 
stubble  fodder  was  available. 

All  of  the  great  sheep  runs,  or  ^* stations,"  are  inland,  behind  the 
agricultural  tract.  In  past  years  when  the  State  governments  needed 
money,  it  was  their  practice  to  sell  pastoral  blocks  at  from  10s.  to  20s. 
per  acre.  Many  of  these  are  scattered  about  the  country,  but  their 
aggregate  area  is  small  in  comparison  with  that  of  the  cheap  leased 
lands  on  which  the  greater  proportion  of  the  merino  wool  is  grown. 
An  indication  of  the  position  is  given  by  the  latest  official  land  sta- 
tistics of  the  country.  As  against  130,393,166  acres  alienated  or  in 
process  of  ahenation,  representing  only  6.84  per  cent  of  the  total  area 
of  the  country,  787,211,488  acres  are  held  under  lease  or  license, 
representing  41.36  per  cent.     (See  Appendix  J.) 

More  than  half  of  the  Commonwealth — amounting  to  986,127,186 
acres,  or  51.80  per  cent — is  still  unoccupied.  The  6.84  per  cent  of 
land  purchased,  or  in  process  of  being  purchased,  includes  all  purely 
agricultural  blocks,  a  large  number  of  cattle  stations,  and  town  prop- 
erties. Of  land  held  under  lease  or  ficense  there  are  273,307,365  acres 
in  Queensland,  161,255,897  in  Western  Austraha,  129,150,578  in  New 
South  Wales,  103,419,428  in  the  Northern  Territory,  102,617,100  in 
South  Australia,  15,955,346  in  Victoria,  and  1,505,774  m  Tasmania. 

RENTS   OF   LEASEHOLDS. 

Sheep  runs  occupy  three-fourths  of  New  South  Wales,  the  State  in 
which  nearly  half  of  the  present  wool  chp  of  the  country  is  grown. 
(See  Appendix  B.)  The  rents  for  leased  lands  in  New  South  Wales 
average  only  1  Jd.  per  acre.  In  the  western  district,  where  78,786,000 
acres  are  almost  entirely  devoted  to  woolgrowing,  a  Government  com- 
mission specially  appointed  to  deal  with  that  part  of  the  State  is 
empowered  to  fix  rents  at  7d.  per  sheep  on  the  carrying  capacity  of 
the  land;  with  the  result  that  the  annual  charges  for  aU  of  the  poorer 
runs,  on  which  from  10  to  15  acres  are  required  for  one  sheep,  fail 
considerably  below  Id.  per  acre.  One  pastorahst  in  this  division 
holds  under  several  leases  an  aggregate  of  2,506,000  acres  for  which  he 
pays  an  average  rent  of  shghtly  less  than  Jd.  per  acre.    In  the  central 


474 


BEPOBT  OF  TAEIPF  BOABB  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


BEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


475 


division  of  New  South  Wales,  which  gives  a  larger  yield  of  wool  than 
any  other  division  of  the  same  State,  28,403,167  acres  of  cheap  lands 
are  held  under  lease  and  Hcense.  Though  rents  here  for  the  smaller 
leaseholds  run  from  2d.  to  3d.  per  acre,  those  charged  for  the  largest 
sheep  runs  vary  between  Id.  and  1  id.  per  acre.  •     . 

In  Queensland,  which  stands  in  respect  of  wool  production  second 
among  the  Austrahan  States,  the  rents  of  pastoral  lands  leased  from 
the  Government  are  so  low  that  they  are  reckoned  for  convenience  at 
per  square  mile.  For  one  group  of  these  lands,  amounting  to  264,439 
square  miles,  the  annual  charge  averages  18s.  lOJd.  per  mile;  another 
group  of  59,584  square  miles  is  rented:  at  9s.  6d.  per  nule;  a  third,  of 
54,584  square  miles,  at  Os.  3|d.  per  mile.  For  all  pastoral  lands  held 
under  lease  or  Hcense  in  Queensland  the  average  annual  rent  works  out 
at  16s.  lid.  per  square  mile.  The  proportion  of  freehold  land  is  still 
very  small.  It  is  officially  returned  at  4.97  per  cent  of  the  total  area 
of  the  State.  A  few  sheep  studs  and  small  flocks  are  found  on  such 
properties;  but  apart  from  the  product  of  these  the  whole  of  the 
Queensland  wool  is  grown  on  lands  held  under  lease  or  hcense  and  on 
very  easy  terms.  Calculated  on  the  basis  of  carrying  capacity,  the 
rents  for  large  runs  are  equal  to  2id.  per  sheep  giazed  per  annum. 
For  "grazing  farms,"  to  which  conditions  of  more  recent  date  apply, 
the  rents  equal  4id.  per  sheep.  The  Government  is  beginnmg  to 
realize  that  the  rents  fixed  for  many  of  the  large  properties  when  their 
occupiers  were  suffering  from  the  effects  of  the  drought  of  1902  are 
unnecessarily  low.  That  small  capitalists  do  not  consider  4id.  per 
head  too  high  is  evidenced  by  the  readiness  with  which  tenants  are 
found  for  grazing  farms  of  vanous  sizes  ranging  up  to  60,000  acres,  the 
maximum  area  of  this  class  that  any  individual  mav  occupy. 

There  is  a  prospect  of  an  increase  being  made  in  the  rents  of  the  big 
Queensland  runs;  but  it  will  not  amount  to  much  within  the  next  10 
or  15  years,  pending  extension  of  Government  railways  and  the  fur- 
ther provision  of  artesian  water  supphes.  Figures  extracted  from 
official  returns  and  pubhshed  in  Appendix  I  show  the  great  area  and 
low  rents  of  some  of  the  runs  in  the  chief  pastoral  districts.  In  the 
west  2,900  square  miles  are  occupied  at  8s.  per  mile,  2,100  square 
miles  at  5s.,  another  holding  of  2,716  square  miles  at  the  same  rate, 
3,032  square  miles  at  3s.  per  mile,  and  many  other  large  tracts  at  from 
10s.  to  208.  per  mile.  In  most  cases  these  are  rents  for  land  of  low 
sheep-carrying  capacity;  but  even  in  districts  which  have  an  assured 
rainfall  holdings  ranging  up  to  1,000  square  miles  are  let  at  from  30s. 
to  60s.  per  mile.  Only  m  exceptionallv  favored  districts  do  the  rents 
exceed  lOOs.  per  mile.  The  pastoral  land  carries  at  present  1  sheep 
to  every  5.94  acres.  This  is  the  average  for  Queensland  as  a  whole. 
It  is  below  the  actual  capacity  of  the  State,  as  the  flockowners  in 
districts  of  the  west  and  south  where  the  rainfall  is  less  than  15  inches 
have  been  understocking  their  runs  since  the  drought  of  1902.  Some 
fix  their  averages  at  10  acres  and  others  at  15  acres  per  sheep. 

In  South  AustraUa  there  are  141,387  square  miles  (90,487,680 
acres)  of  pastoral  lands,  of  which  the  annual  rents  average  3s.  2d. 
per  mile.  Of  land  abandoned  by  the  original  occupiers  during 
droughts,  the  Government  is  offering  15,439  square  miles  at  2s.  per 
mile.  South  Austraha  stands  fourth  in  the  list  of  wool-producing 
States,  but  for  the  present  it  appears  to  have  reached  the  linnt  of  its 
pastoral  capacity.    The  freehold  lands  amount  to  3.97  per  cent  of 


the  total  ar()a  of  the  State,  and  now  include  few  sheep  stations. 
Several  of  the  studs  remain  within  200  miles  of  the  coast,  but  the 
wool-growing  flocks  are  being  driven  northward  into  "dry''  districts 
and  (ustricts  of  uncertain  rainfall  in  which  the  carrying  capacity  of 
the  land  varies  from  15  to  40  acres  per  sheep.  A  medium-sized  run 
in  such  country  is  781  square  miles,  which  can  be  rented  at  from 
£80  to  £120  per  year. 

Western  Australia  is  the  least  developed  portion  of  the  Common- 
wealth, but  it  contains  a  larger  area  of  good  pastoral  country  than 
any  of  the  other  States,  with  the  exception  of  Queensland.  The 
quantity  of  wool  produced  there  has  douoled  within  10  years.  The 
annual  rents  for  pastoral  leases  are  fixed  as  follows,  in  accordance 
with  geographical  position  and  the  extent  of  the  annual  rainfall: 
Southwestern  division,  20s.  per  1,000  acres;  eastern  division,  5s.  per 
1,000;  Eucl a  division,  3s.  per  1,000;  central,  Kimberley,  and  north- 
western divisions,  10s.  per  1,000.  Settlement  is  rapidly  proceeding 
on  these  terms.  In  the  course  of  the  year  ended  June  30,  1910, 
9,945,000  acres  of  new  pastoral  lands  were  leased  from  the  Govern- 
ment. So  far  only  2.24  per  cent  of  the  total  area  of  Western  Austra- 
lia has  been  purchased.  This  land  is  held  chiefly  in  the  southwestern 
agricultural  district,  which  supplies  more  than  half  of  the  wool  grown 
in  the  State;  but  the  tendency  of  pastoral  settlement  is  toward  the 
cheaper  lands  of  the  central  and  northwestern  divisions,  where  from 
5  to  15  acres  are  needed  for  each  sheep.  Appendix  I  gives  the  rents 
paid  in  the  different  parts  of  the  State  for  typical  sheep  runs. 

In  Victoria  and  Tasmania  the  flocks  are  tept  mainly  on  freehold 
runs  and  farms.  The  former  State  has  still  available  3,300,000  acres 
of  pastoral  land  which  can  be  had  at  from  Id.  to  3d.  per  acre.  '  Tas- 
mania has  1,430,000  acres  of  low-grade  leased  land,  the  rents  of  which 
average  Ifd.  per  acre.  The  cheapest  pastoral  land  in  Australia  is 
that  available  in  the  Northern  Territory,  the  control  of  which  has 
recently  been  transferred  by  South  Australia  to  the  Federal  Govern- 
ment. A  total  of  69,276,320  acres  (constituting  about  one-fifth  of 
the  Territory)  are  held  under  lease  at  rents  ranging  between  6d.  and 
3s.  6d.  per  square  mile.  Most  of  the  occupied  blocks  are  used  as 
cattle  runs.  There  are  only  two  sheep  stations  at  present,  and  these 
are  small.  Having  an  ample  rainfall,  the  land  is  well  suited  for 
sheep,  and  will  be  extensively  occupied  by  flockowners  when  the 

Eroposed    transcontinental    railway    between    Adelaide    and    Port 
Darwin  is  completed  about  five  years  hence. 

TENURES. 

Each  Austrahan  State  has  a  separate  land  system.  Pastora 
areas  are  variously  dealt  with,  but  the  laws  relating  to  them  exhibit 
a  general  resemblance  to  some  extent.  Broadly  stated,  the  poUcy 
of  the  governments  has  been,  first,  to  extend  and  permanently  to 
establish  settlement  by  allowing  territory  to  be  occupied  at  very 
low  or  ''peppercorn"  rentals,  and,  secondly,  to  secure  an  increase 
of  revenue  from  the  lands  by  periodical  reappraisements.  These 
reappraisements  are  moderate  and  usually  effected  with  a  judicious 
regard  for  the  quahty  of  the  land,  the  extent  of  its  water  supply, 
and  its  distance  from  railways  and  the  coast.  When  the  occupiers 
suffer  losses  through  droughts  they  are  given  ample  time  for  pay- 


476 


REPORT  OF   TARIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


REPORT  OF   TARIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDUMl   K. 


477 


I 


t| 


ment  of  rent  arrears,  and  in  some  of  the  States  such  losses  are  followed 
by  a  temporary  reduction  of  rents. 

Generally,  it  may  be  said,  the  eovemments  have  proved  consid- 
erate landlords;  if  they  have  erred  in  poUcy,  it  has  been  on  the  side 
of  excessive  Mberahty  to  the  tenants.  It  would  probably  be  safe 
to  say  that,  in  view  of  the  special  adaptabihty  or  the  country  for 
stock  keeping  and  wool  production  (a  fact  cfemonstrated  by  the 
swift  recovery  of  the  pastoral  industry  from  the  drought  of  1902), 
the  Austrahan  lands  used  as  sheep  runs  are  the  cheapest  in  the 
world.  Very  large  areas  are  purcnasable  in  western  New  South 
Wales,  Queensland,  and  Western  Austraha  at  prices  below  20  shil- 
lings per  acre,  but  few  of  the  fiockowners  exhibit  any  desire  to  buy. 
The  highest  profits  are  made  on  leaded  land,  and  the  occupiers  of  all 
large  blocks  remote  from  the  coast  know  that  they  are  beyond  the 
practicable  limit  of  agricultural  settlement,  and  will  not,  therefore, 
De  disturbed. 

The  present  tenure  of  the  78,786,000  acres  of  pastoral  country  in 
western  New  South  Wales  expires  in  1943,  but  it  may  be  anticipated 
that  in  most  cases  the  leases  will  be  renewed  in  some  form,  as  only 
a  small  portion  of  the  land  is  suitable  for  agriculture.  In  other 
divisions  of  New  South  Wales  the  grazing  areas  are  leased  for  terms 
of  7,  20,  28,  or  40  years.  The  rents  are  subject  to  periodical  varia- 
tion in  each  case.  The  Queensland  pastoral  leases  run,  according 
to  the  particular  legislation  under  which  they  have  been  taken  up, 
for  10,  21,  28,  or  40  years.  For  grazing  farms  of  areas  up  to  60,000 
acres  the  periods  are  14, 21,  or  28  years.  The  rents  begin  at  one-half 
pence  per  acre,  and  are  liable  to  change  at  intervals  of  7  years. 

In  South  Austraha  pastoral  leases  are  issued  for  42  years,  unless  the 
land  is  hkely  to  be  required  for  closer  settlement,  and  in  that  case  the 
term  is  fixed  at  21  years.  Forty-two-year  leases  are  subject  to  reval- 
uation of  rent  at  the  end  of  the  first  21  years.  Pastoral  leases  in  the 
Northern  Territory  are  granted  for  42  vears  at  a  rental  of  6  pence  per 
square  mile  for  the  first  7  years,  1  shilling  for  the  second  period  of  7 
years,  and  2  shilhngs  for  the  third.  The  rent  for  the  remainder  of  the 
term  is  fixed  by  vtduation.  In  Western  Austraha  all  pastoral  leases 
expire  at  the  end  of  1928,  when  there  will  be  a  general  revaluation  of 
the  land.  In  the  southwestern  division  of  this  State  the  government 
may,  after  giving  12  months'  notice,  *' resume''  pastoral  lands  suit- 
able for  agricultural  settlement.  In  Victoria  leases  for  grazing  areas 
are  granted  for  anv  term  expiring  not  later  than  the  end  of  1920. 
Should  any  of  the  leased  land  be  wanted  for  agricultural  purposes  it 
can  be  resumed  after  two  years'  notice.  The  term  of  grazing  leases 
in  Tasmania  is  14  years,  but  these  runs  are  "hable  at  any  time  to  be 
sold  or  occupied  by  virtue  of  Hcenses  for  other  than  pastoral  purposes." 

LAND  TAXATION. 

The  Federal  Parhament  passed  in  1910  a  graduated  system  of  tax- 
ation based  on  the  unimproved  value  of  town  and  country  lands.  It 
was  avowedly  designed  in  part  to  *^  burst  up  the  big  estates"  (meaning 
freehold  estates),  and  thus  to  promote  closer  settlement.  Properties 
valued  at  £5,000  and  under  are  exempted.  Upon  those  of  greater 
value  than  £5,000  the  taxation  is  be^un  at  1  penny  in  the  pound  (£), 
and  rises  b  j  regular  additions  of  one-half  penny  each  to  6  pence  in  the 


pound.  This  charge  is  imposed  on  estates  valued  at  £80,000.  On  all 
estates  of  unimproved  value  above  £80,000  there  is  a  uniform  tax  of 
7  pence  in  the  pound.  Owners  of  Austrahan  property  who  do  not 
reside  in  the  Commonwealth  are  subjected  to  an  extra  1  penny  at  each 
stage  of  the  graduation  and  excluded  from  the  advantage  of  the  £5,000 
exemption. 

This  land  taxation,  planned  and  carried  into  operation  by  a  labor 
government  with  strong  sociafistic  leanings,  is  to  be  made  the  subject 
of  a  test  case  in  the  Commonwealth  High  Court.  The  chief  conten- 
tion of  its  opponents  is  that,  by  combimng  land  policy  with  taxation 
for  revenue  purposes,  the  Federal  Parhament  is  exceeding  its  consti- 
tutional powers  and  infringing  those  reserved  to  the  State  legislatures. 

Each  of  the  States,  with  the  exception  of  Queensland,  maintains 
a  separate  land  tax.  The  following  is  a  brief  description  of  these 
taxes: 

New  South  Wales. — Unifonn  levy  of  Id.  in  the  pound  (£1)  on  unimproved  value; 
suspended  by  arrangement  when  the  municipal  councils  oi  the  State  fix  a  general  rate 
of  the  same  amount.  » 

Victoria. — Halfpenny  in  the  pound,  with  exemption  of  £250  for  urban  lands. 

South  Australia. — Halfpenny  in  the  pound  to  £5,000,  and  Ijd.  above  £5,000  on 
unimproved  value;  absentees,  20  per  cent  increase. 

Western  Australia. — Uniform  Id.  in  the  poimd  on  the  value  of  land  not  improved  by 
the  occupier;  *d.  in  the  poimd  on  unimproved  value  of  land  on  which  improvements 
have  been  made;  absentees,  50  per  cent  increase. 

Tasmania. — Halfpenny  in  the  pound  on  total  capital  value  to  £5,000,  rising  to  Id. 
in  the  pound  on  £80,000  and  over.  The  various  State  land  taxes  yield  an  aggregate  d 
£350,000  per  annum. 

The  annual  land  rates  imposed  by  shire  and  other  municipal  coun- 
cils are  as  follows: 

New  South  Wales. — On  unimproved  value  of  all  land,  not  lees  than  Id.  nor  more 
than  2d.  in  the  pound. 

Victoria. — From  6d.  to  28.  6d.  in  the  pound  on  net  annual  value. 

Queensland. — Three  pence  in  the  pound  on  unimproved  value. 

South  Australia. — Not  less  than  3d.  nor  more  than  Is.  6d.  in  the  poimd;  assessment, 
four-fifths  of  the  gross  annual  rent  at  which  the  land  would  be  let  for  a  term  of  seven 
years. 

Western  Australia. — Up  to  Is.  6d.  in  the  poimd  on  the  annual  value  of  the  lands. 

Tasmania. — Not  less  than  6d.  nor  more  than  Is.  3d.  in  the  pound. 

All  municipal  rates  are  liable  to  be  changed  from  year  to  year. 

THE  PADDOCK   SYSTEM. 

Shepherding  was  a  general  practice  on  Australian  sheep  runs  during 
the  early  stages  of  the  development  of  the  wool  industry.  Flocks 
were  then  relatively  small  in  size;  most  of  the  runs  were  unfenced, 
or  only  partly  fenced;  in  many  inland  districts  unprotected  stock 
was  liable  to  be  raided  by  the  aborigines;  and  little  had  been  done 
toward  the  conservation  of  water  and  fodder  in  the  drier  parts  of  the 
country. 

These  conditions  have  everywhere  changed  within  the  past  30  or 
40  years.     The  traditional  method  of  handling  the  sheep  is  temporarily 

Sursued  on  portions  of  some  new  runs  in  western  Queensland  and  other 
istricts  remote  from  the  coast,  but  such  cases  are  few  and  unimpor^ 
tant.  Elsewhere  all  sheep  lands  are  now  fully  fenced  in  and  variously 
subdivided.  The  employment  of  shepherds  upon  any  considerable 
scale  may  be  said  to  have  ceased  about  25  years  ago. 

The  rapid  increase  in  the  size  of  flocks  since  1875  calUed  for  a  more 
economical  system  of  care  and  control,  the  mildness  of  the  climate 


478 


EEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


REPORT  OF   TARIFF  BOARD   ON   SCHEDXJIiB  K. 


479 


I 


til 


(by  rendering  the  housing  of  sheep  unnecessary,  even  in  the  winter 
months)  macfe  it  nracticalle.  and  tlie  growing  wealth  of  the  industrjr 
quickly  justified  tne  financial  expenditure  that  it  entailed.  The  land 
policies  in  the  several  States  do  not  appear  to  have  had  anything  to 
do  with  the  transition;  at  least  they  did  not  visibly  retafd  it.  It 
came  about  chiefly  through  a  general  recognition  of  its  business 
advantages. 

At  fii^t  only  sheep-proof  fences  were  erected.  In  later  veai^  the 
loss  of  fodder  through  the  rapid  extension  of  the  rabbit  pest  led  to  the 
adoption  of  wire  netting  fences  in  many  districts.  Large  sums  of 
money  had  previously  l^n  expended  by  municipal  and  other  local 
bodies,  with  assistance  and  direction  from  the  State  governments, 
in  attempts  to  exterminate  the  rabbits  by  laying  poison  for  them,  by 
the  destruction  of  their  cover,  and  by  other  means :  but  in  all  except 
the  more  closely  settled  agricultural  districts  (sucn  as  those  of  Vic- 
toria) the  results  obtained  were  inadequate  and  small  in  proportion 
to  the  outlay  incurred. 

In  the  great  pastoral  areas  of  New  South  Wales,  southern  Queens- 
land, South  Australia,  and  the  northern  districts  of  Western  Australia 
the  first  really  effective  check  to  the  pest  was  accomplished  by  the 
introduction  of  wire  netting  for  boundary  fences.  The  governments 
of  the  lai^er  States  now  promote  the  construction  of  these  fences 
by  offering  loan  advances  for  the  purpose  to  flockowners  and  farmers 
alike  at  from  4  to  5  per  cent  interest,  with  easy  terms  for  the  repay- 
ment of  the  principal.  Landowners  obtain  such  assistance  from  the 
governments  either  directly  or  through  local  administrative  boards. 
At  the  same  time,  and  as  a  further  means  of  encouraging  settlement 
and  helping  to  overcome  the  rabbits,  a  number  of  substantial  cross- 
country *;barrier"  fences  of  wire  nettmg  have  been  erected  as  national 
undertakings,  entirely  at  State  expense. 

Of  these  valuable  fences  there  are,  according  to  the  latest  Oovern- 
ment  reports  available  in  London,  1,397  miles  in  New  South  Wales, 
2,030  miles  in  Western  AustraUa,  and  732  miles  in  Queensland.  The 
newest  and  most  efficient  of  the  **  barriers,"  that  in  Western  Australia, 
which  was  erected  at  a  cost  of  £320,000  (including  incidental  outlay 
on  wells  sunk  at  intervals  along  the  route),  divides  the  sheep  country 
there  from  the  principal  agricultural  belt  and  renders  particularly 
important  service  to  the  farmers.  Where  the  Government  fence 
runs  through  pastoral  country  the  occupiers  of  the  lands  adjoinins:  it 
are  permitted  to  connect  their  own  fences  with  it  and  use  it  as  part 
of  their  respective  boundaries  on  payment  of  an  annual  rent  at  the 
rate  of  25s.  per  mile,  or,  two  flockowners  occupying  opposite  lands, 
divided  by  tne  Government  fence,  may  share  the  rent  between  them. 

The  erection  of  wire-netting  fences  by  landowners  is  proceeding 
steadily  in  all  thinly  settled  inland  districts  where  rabbits  can  not  be 
sufficiently  checked^  by  the  destruction  of  cover,  by  the  use  of  poison, 
and  other  measures.  The  greatest  progress  in  tins  work  so  tar  has 
been  made  in  New  South  Wales,  the  principal  wool-growing  State. 
In  1909  the  total  length  of  the  private  netting  fences  in  that  State 
(including  division  fences)  was  officially  estimated  at  71,000  miles, 
and  the  aggregate  cost  to  the  owners  was  given  at  £4,002,696.  In 
Queensland,  besides  the  732  miles  of  Government  border  fences 
already  referred  to,  there  were  in  1909,  the  lands  department 
States,  17,315  miles  of  wire-netting  fences,  of  which  8,642  miles  had 


been  erected  by  pastoral  lessees,  2,824  miles  by  grazing  selectors,  and 
5,849  miles  by  local  boards  which  receive  State  assistance. 

Since  the  year  1880  the  government  of  Victoria  has  spent  £521,651 
in  the  destruction  of  rabbits  on  pubHc  lands  in  that  State,  and  it  has  also 
loaned  to  local  councils  and  private  landowners  various  sums  amount- 
ing to  £245 ,850  for  the  erection  of  wire-netting  fences.  These  measures 
have  had  the  desired  effect ;  rabbits  in  Victoria  now  cause  very  Httle 
loss  to  the  farmers  and  flockowners.  The  government  of  the  State 
of  South  Austraha  follows  the  general  practice  of  lending  money  to 
flockownei*s  and  farmers  for  the  purchase  of  fencing  materials. 
Official  figures  showing  the  amount  advanced  and  the  mileage  of  the 
fences  constructed  are  not  obtainable  in  London,  but  the  general 
appearance  of  settlement  in  the  State,  as  noted  a  few  months  ago, 
suggests  that  the  landowners  there  are  now  erecting  rabbit-proof 
fences  at  a  rate  but  Httle  below  that  recorded  in  New  South  Wales 
and  Queensland  in  recent  years. 

DIVISION   FENCES. 

The  number  of  the  paddock  divisions  on  a  sheep  run  depends  usu- 
ally on  the  carrying  capacity  of  the  land,  the  proportion  of  freehold 
included  in  the  property,  and  the  cost  of  fencing.  The  subdivisions 
are  rather  more  numerous  and  more  substantial  on  freeholds  than  on 
leaseholds,  but  as  a  rule  the  main  consideration  is  carrying  capacity. 
The  increased  returns  obtained  from  the  sheep  soon  justify  the  outlay 
on  fencing,  whether  the  land  be  freehold  or  held  under  lease  from 
Government.  Exceptions  to  the  general  practice  are  found  chiefly 
where  occupation  is  recent,  or  where,  owmg  to  long  distance  from 
railway  communication  or  to  scarcity  of  timber  (for  posts),  the  cost 
of  fencing  is  well  above  the  average.  The  tendency  wit^hin  the  past 
15  years  has  been  to  reduce  the  size  of  paddocks.  One  is  frequently 
told  by  flockowners  that  ''the  more  you  subdivide,  the  more  sheep 
you  can  carry  on  the  better  classes  of  land."  Tliis  is,  however,  a 
matter  of  individual  judgment;  there  are  probably  cases  in  which 
the  number  of  the  subdivisions  is  unnecessarily  large.  Some  of  the 
paddocks  in  New  South  Wales  and  Victoria  provide  for  only  400  or 
500  sheep.  In  Queensland,  South  Austraha,  and  Western  Austraha 
many  of  the  paddocks  hold  20,000  sheep  or  more.  The  practice 
varies  very  widely.  A  convenient  illustration  of  this  irregularity  is 
furnished  by  the  following  particulars  of  sheep  properties  in  New 
South  Wales  (the  oldest  of  the  States  in  respect  of  settlement,  and 
the  most  important  in  wool  production)  whicn  have  been  advertised 
for  sale  in  the  present  year: 


Location  of  run. 


Salisbury  Downs 

Avoca 

Bourke 

Do 

Nortli  Riverina.. 

Cryon 

Western  district. 

Do 

Coonamble 

Do 

Do 


Area  of 
run. 


Acres. 

999,120 

486,727 

340,000 

195,000 

27,000 

18.300 

13.000 

8,200 

12,000 

4,000 

3,200 


Pad- 
docks. 


39 

54 

16 

25 

20 

6 

16 

16 

10 

7 

6 


Location  of  run. 


Glencoe 

Wee  Waa 

Burrowa 

Tanworth 

Nyngan 

Burren  Junction 

Trundle .. 

Mudgee 

Do 

Dorrigo 


Area  of 
nm. 


Acres. 
10,000 
8,000 
6,000 
6,100 
5,000 
3,000 
3,500 
3,000 
1,330 
1,280 


Pad- 
docks. 


24 

8 

13 

19 

4 
8 
4 
15 
7 
8 


I 


480 


BEK)BT  01*  TASIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDTJIiB  K. 


BEPOET  OF  TAEIFF  BOARD   ON   SCHEDUI/E  K. 


481 


i| 


The  first  four  runs  are  far  inland  leaseholds  of  low  carrying  capac- 
ity The  Others  include  freehold  land  in  vaiyinff  proportions,  and 
Bome  of  the  smaller  runs  consist  mainlv  of  freehold.  Judicious  sub- 
division f  acihtates  the  classification  of  sheep  and  enables  the  flock- 
owner  to  get  the  best  possible  results  from  his  pastures.  The  sheep 
remain  within  easy  walkmg  distance  of  their  water  supply.  The 
limitation  of  their  movements  saves  the  grass,  and  as  they  raise  Mtle 
dust  in  the  dry  weather,  the  wool  is  kept  clean.  In  the  early  days 
of  the  industry,  when  ''shepherding"  was  uncommon  and  the  sheep 
were  kept  moving  daily  over  larger  areas,  additional  men  were 
engaged  to  look  Jter  the  ewes  and  pick  up  weak  lambs  during  the 
lambing  season.  The  employment  of  these  men  termmated  with  the 
introduction  of  fencmg.  No  special  care  is  now  necessary  during 
lambing,  except  in  portions  of  Western  Austraha  and  bouth  AustraUa 
from  wMch  dmgoes  (wild  dogs)  have  not  yet  been  extermmated 

Speaking  from  ample  experience  m  New  South  Wales,  Victoria, 
and  Queensland,  before  and  after  the  introduction  of  fences,  a  well- 
knowia  pastorahst  states:  ^'In  the  old  days  one  needed  from  70  to  80 
men  to  look  after  100,000  sheep.  Now  from  10  to  20  boundaiy  nders, 
receiving  25s.  a  week  and  their  'keep'  per  man,  do  the  same  amount 
of  work,  and  they  make  any  necessary  repau^  to  the  fences  and  de- 
stroy rabbits  as  weU.  On  some  stations  of  high  carrymg  canacity 
60,000  sheep  can  be  looked  after  by  four  boundary  nders.  louring 
the  shearing  the  boundary  riders  are  assisted  by  a  few  musterers  who 
at  other  times  are  generally  kept  about  the  runs  at  improvement  work. 
One  may  say  that  in  Austraha  as  a  whole  the  paddock  system  has 
enormously  increased  the  returns  from  sheep.  It  has  saved  labor, 
given  us  a  higher  lambmg  percentage,  and  helped  to  raise  the  weight 
and  quahty  of  the  wool.  In  fact,  it  is  hardly  worth  whde  now  to  make 
any  comparison  between  tJbe  old  svstem  and  the  new.  It  is  not  con- 
ceivable that  the  old  system  coulcl  have  been  contmued  permanently 
anywhere  in  Australia.  It  had  to  go— apart  from  other  considered 
tions^as  soon  as  our  flocks  began  to  multiply  rapidly.  ^  ,      ^, 

The  number  of  boundary  riders  employed  is  governed,  not  by  the 
number  of  sheep  to  be  watched,  but  by  the  area  of  land  required  for 
their  support.  On  weU-fenced  runs  m  New  South  Wales,  with  a 
carrvinff  capacity  reckoned  at  3  or  4  acres  per  sheep,  there  is  usually 
one  Wndary  rider  for  every  20,000  sheep.  The  manager  of  one  of 
the  leading  companies  estimates  that  a  nm  canying  100,000  sheen 
can  be  worked,  except  during  shearing  time,  by  a  permanent  staff 
composed  as  follows: 

Manager,  overseer,  bookk;^er  (who  al^o  acts  aa  «t<>'««^^' ^^  ^J^^f^^A  J?^ 
boundary  rider  for  every  20,000  sheep,  one  odd-job  man,  one  mamed  couple,  and  two 
female  domestics— eometimes  three. 

A  few  extra  permanent  men  are,  however,  required  where  there  is 
much  improvement  to  be  done,  such  as  the  sinking  of  wells,  removal 
of  timber,  and  the  building  of  sheds  and  yards.  At  the  ^  head  station 
on  many  of  the  larger  properties  one  or  two  mechamcs,  capable  of 
repairing  automobiles  and  of  working  electric-Hghtmg  plant,  portable 
endues,  and  other  machinery,  are  now  kept,  in  addition  to  the  black- 
simth.  The  salary  of  a  manager  is  usually  £400  a  year  on  the  smaUer 
runs  and  £600  on  the  larger  ones,  ''keep''  being  added  in  both  cases. 
An  overseer  is  paid  from  £250  to  £300  per  annum,  with  keep,  and 
the  bookkeeper  and  storeman  £150  to  £200.    Mechamcs  receive 


from  30s.  to  40s.  per  week,  and  the  minor  workmen  are  paid  on  the 
regular  scale,  of  which  some  details  have  been  given  in  the  main  report. 

COST   OF  FENCES. 

Before  the  growth  of  the  rabbit  pest  suggested  the  adoption  of  wire 
netting,  sheep  runs  in  Austraha  were  in  most  cases  inclosed  and 
divided  with  fences  consisting  partly  of  wood  and  partiy  of  plain  steel 
wire.  In  districts  where  growing  timber  was  plentiful  wooden  post- 
and-rail  fences  were  erected,  and  three  or  four  wires  were  run  through 
the  lower  half  of  the  posts.  In  prairie  or  "open''  country  the  rails 
were  dispensed  with  to  save  haulage  cost,  ana  the  fences  were  made 
of  wooden  posts  bearing  five  or  six  wires.  Fences  of  this  type  are 
stUl  the  most  generally  used  in  all  parts  of  the  country  where  rabbits 
can  be  easdy  be  kept  in  check  without  recourse  to  wire  netting. 

The  height  of  the  plain  wire  fences  varies  from  3  feet  6  inches  to  4 
feet  6  incnes.  Some  flockowners  say  they  find  2  feet  10  inches 
enough,  but  the  majority  prefer  3  feet  6  inches.  For  the  average 
sheep  fence  of  this  class  five  wires  suffice.  Where  cattle  and  horses 
have  to  be  taken  into  account,  as  well  as  sheep,  fences  of  4  feet  6 
nches,  with  five  plain  wires  and  a  barbed  wire  fastened  along  the  top, 
are  used.  In  fences  of  both  heights  the  lowest  wire  is  placed  7  inches 
from  the  ground  and  between  that  wire  and  the  second,  third  and 
fourth,  counted  upward,  the  spaces  are  each  of  6  inches.  The  posts  are 
set  at  from  15  to  20  feet  apart  in  districts  where  timber  is  cheap. 
Where  there  is  scarcity  of  timber  the  distance  varies  widely,  up  to  50 
feet.  In  these  cases  stability  is  maintained  by  having  the  wires  tightly 
strained  and  by  the  use  between  the  posts  of  fight  droppers  to  Keep 
the  wires  in  position.  Fences  of  5  feet  or  higher  and  oearing  eight 
wires  are  occasionally  seen  in  Austraha,  but  the  special  security  they 
are  designed  to  afford  is  not  needed  on  lands  used  mainly  for  sheep 
grazing. 

The  total  cost  of  a  substantial  5- wire  fence  of  No.  8  gauge — i.  e., 
costs  of  material,  transport,  and  construction  combined — is  about 
£25  per  mile.  That  appears  to  be  the  average  in  the  greater  part  of 
the  sheep  country,  taking  Australia  as  a  whole  but  excluding  the 
inner  zone  of  pastoral  settlement.  In  the  latter  area,  as  far  as  can  be 
ascertained,  the  outlay  runs  from  £2  to  £4  higher,  owing  chiefly  to 
higher  transport  and  labor  charges.  But  it  is  impossible  to  arrive 
at  a  satisfactory  average  or  comparison  in  this  case,  because  the 
fences  in  the  *^back  country"  are  not  uniformly  constructed.  Some 
of  the  landowners  there  economize  by  using  four  instead  of  ^ve  wires; 
others  reduce  the  gauge  of  the  wire,  or  save  on  timber  and  construc- 
tion charges  by  lengthening  the  ordinary  distance  between  the  posts. 

A  common  expenditure  on  ^ood  6- wire  fences  (material,  transport, 
and  construction  being  combined  as  before)  in  New  South  Wales, 
Queensland,  South  Austraha,  and  Western  Australia  is  £28  to  £30 
per  mile.  The  maximum,  which  is  very  rarely  exceeded  anywhere, 
IS  £35  per  mile.  The  principal  factor  of  the  several  which  determine 
the  amount  of  the  expenditure  on  fences  in  different  parts  of  Australia 
is  timber  supply.  Where  it  is  fairly  easy  to  obtain  posts  there  is 
fit  tie  variation  from  the  average  total  cost.  One  well-known  wool- 
grower  recently  had  long  stretches  of  both  5-wire  and  6-wire  fences 
erected  on  his  sheep  run  m  the  Murchison  district,  a  district  in  which 

32080*'— H.  Doc.  342,  62-2,  vol  1 31 


482 


BEPOKT  OF  TABIFF  BOARD  OK  SCHEDULE  K. 


REPORT  OP  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


483 


! 


the  conditions  are  typical  of  those  prevaihng  in  many  of  the  larger 
pastoral  areas  occupied  under  lease  by  flockowners  in  Australia.  He 
gives  the  following  particulars  of  his  expenditure: 


I 


cost 

eteel , 

mile;  total  cost  of  fence  per  mile,  £24. 

2.  Contract  price  for  construction  of  6-wire  fence,  including  supply  of  posts,  £18 
per  mile;  cost  of  No.  10  gah'anized  steel  wire,  with  transport  as  in  the  other  case, 
£10  per  mile;  total  cost  of  fence  per  mile,  £28. 

The  posts  are  15  feet  apart,  and  the  general  construction  is  rather 
above  the  average  in  strength.  No.  10  wire  is  thought  to  be  the 
best  for  sheep  fences,  but  No.  8  is  more  generally  used  in  Australia 
than  any  other.  . 

When  netting  is  to  be  used  on  sheep  lands  a  four-wire  fence  with 
wooden  posts  is  erected,  and  to  this  the  netting  is  fastened  after 
being  sunk  6  inches  in  the  ground.  Generally  the  netting  is  of  2} 
mesh  and  stands  3  feet  above  ground.  There  are  some  exceptions 
to  this  rule  of  construction.  Wliere  cheapness  is  aimed  at  only  three 
bearing  wires  are  used,  and  the  netting  is  of  2  i  mesh.  In  some  other 
casesthe  netting  is  IJ  mesh,  and  is  erected  on  four-wire  fences  with 
posts  and  droppers  of  steel.  The  total  cost — materials  and  con- 
struction combined — of  wire  netting  fences  over  the  greater  portion 
of  Austraha  ranges  from  £45  to  £50  per  mile.  The  cost  vanes  more 
than  that  of  plain  wire  fencing,  mainly  on  account  of  differences  in 
the  quahty  and  measurement  of  the  netting  used. 

Along  the  coastal  districts  of  Victoria  and  New  South  Wales,  where 
transport  charges  are  comparatively  small,  good  netting  fences  are 
built  for  £35  per  mile.  The  opposite  extreme  is  represented  by 
netting  erected  on  all-steel  fences,  for  owners  of  high-class  properties 
or  around  stud  paddocks,  at  a  total  cost  of  £60  per  mile.  Apparently 
it  was  fencing  of  the  more  expensive  class  that  attracted  the  atten- 
tion of  the  Scottish  a^cultural  commissioners  who  visited  Australia 
18  months  ago.  Theu:  report  (p.  226)  puts  the  average  cost  of  wire- 
netting  fences  too  high  in  suggesting  that  it  lies  between  £50  and  £60 
per  mile.     The  latter  outlay,  at  any  rate,  is  rarely  necessary. 

The  expenditure  for  maintenance  of  substantial  fences  of  post  and 
wire  or  wire  netting  is  small  in  ordinary  circumstances.  Some  flock 
owners  of  large  experience  nut  it  as  low  as  Is.  per  mile  per  annum. 
The  highest  sum  mentioned  by  any  of  the  authorities  consulted  is 
2s.  6d.  per  mile.  Generally,  it  appears,  the  cost  is  always  a  little 
higher  m  districts  with  high  rainfall  than  in  dry  country.  The 
average  "life"  of  post-and-wire  fences  is  20  years.  This  is  often 
exceeded  where  the  construction  ia  exceptionally  good.  It  is  not 
uncommon  in  New  South  Wales  and  Victoria  to  see  strong  wire- 
netting  fences  wliich  have  stood  12  or  15  years  without  requiring 
any  repairs  worth  reckoning.  Damage  caused  bv  bush  fires  or  floods 
is  infrequent  and  seldom  very  serious.  The  fences  are  regularly 
inspected  by  boundary  riders,  who  combine  such  work  with  other 
duties.  One  large  owner  states  that  60  miles  of  his  fencing  are 
watched  by  one  boundary  rider  whose  wages  and  food  cost  40s. 
per  week.  The  only  fences  on  which  expenditure  for  maintenance 
m  considerable  are  the  Government  "barrier"  fences.  In  the  wilder 
parts  of  western  Australia,  South  Australia,  and  Queensland  these 


fences  are  liable  to  damage  by  wandering  aborigines,  cattle  drovers, 
and  men  engaged  in  getting  timber  suppues. 

COST   OF   LABOR. 

Under  pressure  from  the  Australian  Workers'  Union,  a  well- 
organized  and  politically  influential  body  which  was  originally  known 
as  the  Shearers'  Union,  and  has  now  44,000  members,  the  wages  for 
the  principal  classes  of  workmen  employed  on  sheep  stations  are 
steadily  advancing.  A  comparison  of  present  rates  with  those  cur- 
rent in  1901  shows  that  shearers  receive  25  per  cent  more  than  they 
were  paid  10  years  ago,  and  in  the  same  period  there  has  been  an 
increase  of  12  to  15  per  cent  in  the  wages  of  other  station  workers. 
(Some  flock  owners  estimate  the  increase  in  shearers'  wages  at 
between  30  and  33  per  cent.)  The  employers  most  affected  are 
owners  of  large  runs  in  Queensland,  western  New  South  Wales,  and 
the  northern  districts  of  South  Australia.  In  the  two  small  States — 
Victoria  and  Tasmania— rwhere  labor  is  less  difficult  to  obtain  and  the 
traveling  distances  are  short,  wages  have  remained  up  to  the  present 
comparatively  moderate. 

Prior  to  1907,  when  the  rates  were  fixed  by  an  award  of  the  Com- 
monwealth Court  of  Conciliation  and  Arbitration,  disputes  between 
the  masters  and  men  were  very  common.  The  chief  organizer  of 
the  union,  now  a  member  of  the  Federal  house  of  representatives, 
states  in  a  book  recently  published  that  "more  strikes  have  taken 
place  in  connection  with  shearing  sheep  than  in  aU  of  the  other 
Australian  industries  combined,"  and  that  "probably  10,000  since 
1886  would  be  under  the  number."  He  refers  chiefly  to  the  recur- 
rence of  local  strikes  affecting  the  labor  of  small  areas  or  single  sta- 
tions. The  award  of  1907  applied  to  the  principal  wool-growing 
States  only;  it  was  not  considered  necessary  to  include  western 
Australia  and  Tasmania,  owing  to  the  comparative  smallness  of  their 
production.  In  western  Australia  a  considerable  ^mount  of  cheap 
nonunion  labor  is  used — that  of  the  aborigines — ^while  in  Tasmania 
many  of  the  small  flock  owners  are  independent  of  hired  labor. 
The  rates  fixed  by  the  arbitration  court  were  as  follows,  the  award  to 
remain  in  force  three  years: 

For  shearing  flock  wethers,  ewes,  and  lambs  in  New  South  Wales,  Queensland,  the 
northern  districts  of  South  Astralia,  and  the  northwestern  comer  of  Victoria,  248.  per 
100  shorn. 

For  shearing  wethers,  flock  ewes,  and  lambs  in  Victoria  (except  the  northwestern 
comer),  and  in  the  Port  Lincoln  and  southeastern  districts  of  South  Australia,  22s, 
per  100  shorn. 

For  shearing  rams  over  6  months  old,  double  the  rate  for  ordinary  flock  sheep. 

For  shearing  stud  ewes,  5s.  per  100  more  than  the  rate  for  flock  sneep. 

When  the  employer  provided  the  men  with  rations,  these  rates 
were  reduced  by  3.3  per  100  in  Victoria,  and  by  3s.  2(1.  per  100  in 
New  South  Wales,  Queensland,  and  South  Australia.  The  court 
determined  that  shed  laborers  provided  with  rations  by  their  em- 
ployers should  be  paid  the  foUowing  weekly  rates: 

New  South  Wales:  Wool  rollers,  piece  pickers,  and  penners  up,  30s.,-  all  other  shed 
hands  over  18  years  of  age,  278.  6d.;  boys,  20s. 

Queensland,  except  Darling  Downs  and  the  eastern  Maranoa  district:  All  shed  handii 
over  18  years,  30s.;  boys,  228.  6d. 

Darling  Downs  and  eastern  Maranoa:  Wool  rollers,  piece  pickers,  and  penners  up, 
308.;  all  other  hands  over  18  years,  278.  6d.;  boys,  208. 


4o4 


BEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDUIiB  K. 


BEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


485 


South  Australia,  except  the  southeast  comer  and  the  Port  Lincoln  district:  Wool 
rollers,  piece  pickers,  and  penners  up,  SOs.;  all  other  ahed  hands  over  18  years,  278. 

6d.,  boys,  20b.  ,.     ttt    t      h 

Port  Lincoln  district  and  southeast  comer  of  South  Australia:  Wool  rollers,  piece 
pickers,  and  penners  up,  278.  6d.;  ail  other  shed  hands  over  18  years,  258.;  boys, 

17s  6d. 

Victoria,  except  the  northwest  comer:  Wool  rollers,  piece  pickers,  and  penners  uj), 
27s.  6d  ;  all  other  shed  hands  over  18  years,  258.;  boys,  17s.  6d.  Northwest  Victoria: 
Wool  rollers,  piece  pickers,  and  penners  up,  30b.;  all  other  shed  hands  over  18  years, 
278.  6d.;  boys,  20e. 

The  award  further  provided  that  when  rations  were  not  supplied 
free  of  charge,  the  wages  of  shed  hands  should  be  increased  in  Queens- 
land (except  on  DarBng  Downs  and  eastern  Maranoa)  by  18s.  per 
week,  and  in  New  South  Wales,  Victoria,  South  Austraha,  Darling 
Downs,  and  eastern  Maranoa  by  13s.  per  week.  The  weekly  wages 
for  cooks  were  from  32s.  6d.  to  358.,  with  the  alternative  of  payment 
according  to  the  number  of  men  working  on  each  station,  the  rate 
per  man  Deing  from  3s.  to  4s.  per  week.  For  wool  pressers  the  rates 
were  (with  rations)  30s.  per  week  in  New  South  Wales,  South  Austra- 
lia, and  Victoria,  and  35s.  in  Queensland;  or,  where  rations  were 
provided  by  the  men,  from  Is.  4d.  to  Is.  8d.  per  bale  pressed, 

workers'  further  demands. 

A  general  increase  upon  these  wages  for  shearers  and  shed  hands 
is  now  sought  by  the  Australian  Workers'  Union,  and  an  attempt  at 
a  direct  arrangement  with  the  employers  having  failed,  the  Common- 
wealth Arbitration  Court  is  again  to  be  resorted  to.  The  new  de- 
mands of  the  union  include  the  following:  Rate  for  flock  sheep,  25s. 
per  100  in  all  of  the  States;  extra  rate  for  stud  ewes  to  be  6s.  instead 
of  5s.  per  100;  shed  hands  (with  rations  provided  in  all  cases),  42s.  6d. 
in  Queensland,  40s.  m  New  South  Wales  and  South  Australia,  37s. 
6d.  m  Victoria  and  Tasmania;   wool  pressers.  Is.  9d.  to  38.  Id.  per 

bale. 

The  union  is  also  asking  the  arbitration  court  to  raise  the  wages 
of  several  classes  of  station  labor  not  provided  for  in  the  award  of 
1907,  nor  hitherto  touched  by  am  formal  agreement  between  mas- 
ters and  men.  The  average  weekly  wages  at  present  paid  to  per- 
manent station  workers  are,  accorcfing  to  an  official  list,  as  follows: 

New  South  Wales  and  South  Australia :  Boundary  riders,  208.  to  25s. ;  musterers,  20s. 
to  30b.;  bullock  drivers  and  handy  men,  25s.;  stockmen  and  sheep  drovers,  208.; 
drivers.  20s.  to  258.;  general  station  hands,  18s.  to  20s.;  rabbit  destroyers,  20s.;  mar- 
ried couples.  £70  to  £100  per  year.  ^        ,  .^  ,  1     *  ^-       V,     ^ 

Queensland  and  Western  Australia:  Boundary  nders  and  general  station  hands, 
20s.  to  228.  6d.,  stockmen,  22s.  6d.  to  27b.  6d.;  musterera,  308.;  drivers,  308.  to  40s.; 
married  couples,  £90  to  £100. 

Victoria  and  Tasmania:  Boundary  riders,  musterers,  drivers,  labbit  destroyers,  and 
general  station  hands,  20s.;  cooks  and  handy  men,  25s.;  married  couples,  £70  to  £80. 

Free  keep — ^i.  e.,  food  and  house  accommodation — ^is  provided  for 
permanent  station  workers  in  all  of  the  States.  It  is  estunated  that 
the  employers'  weekly  outlay  for  rations,  per  head,  is  19s.  in  Queens- 
land and  a  portion  of  New  South  Wales;  148.  9d.  over  the  greater 
part  of  New  South  Wales;  9s.  to  lis.  in  Victoria,  South  Austraha, 
and  Tasmania;  and  17s.  in  Western  Australia.  To  this  expenditure 
is  added  a  general  weekly  average  outlay  of  4s.  per  head  for  housing, 
light,  water,  and  fuoL 


The  present  wages  for  all  of  these  classes  of  permanent  labor  are 
largely  exceeded  bv  the  new  list  of  rates  submitted  to  the  arbitration 
court,  and  a  claim  for  full "  keep  ^'  is  added  in  each  case  by  £he  workers' 
union.  Thus  it  is  proposed  that  in  future  the  weekly  pay  of  boundary 
riders  shall  be  35s.  in  Queensland  and  30s.  in  each  of  the  other  States; 
musterers,  40s.  in  Queensland,  New  South  Wales,  and  South  Aus- 
tralia, and  35s.  in  Victoria  and  Tasmania;  bullock  drivers,  42s.  in 
Queensland  (with  8s.  extra  for  long  distances)  and  35s.  in  the  other 
States;  horse  drivers,  40s.  in  New  South  Wales  and  South  Australia, 
35s.  in  Victoria  and  Tasmania,  and  42s.  in  Queensland;  stockmen, 
35s.  in  all  States;  drovers,  40s.  in  Queensland,  New  South  Wales,  and 
South  Australia,  and  35s.  in  Victoria  and  Tasmania;  cooks,  40s.  in  all 
States;  married  couples,  £125  in  Queensland  and  £100  in  each  of  the 
other  States.  The  minimum  wage  for  any  class  of  station  labor  is 
30s.,  with  rations  and  housing,  and  the  union  proposes  that  all  of  the 
rates  named  shall  be  paid  without  regard  to  the  age  of  the  worker. 

The  employers  are  offering  unanimous  opposition  to  the  majority 
of  the  new  rates,  and  claim  a  reduction  of  current  wages  for  several 
classes  of  work.  They  estimate  that  the  new  rates  would,  if  granted, 
increase  Queensland's  total  yearly  expenditure  on  labor  by  £600,000, 
and  add  about  £1,500,000  to  the  annual  wages  bill  of  the  industry  in 
the  Commonwealth  as  a  whole. 

From  a  private  account  supplied  by  the  manager  of  one  of  the 
largest  runs  in  Australia — which  is  worked  in  conditions  common  to 
the  greater  part  of  the  inland  sheep  country  of  Queensland,  New  South 
Wales,  and  South  Australia — it  appears  that  the  new  union  rates 
would  raise  the  cost  of  labor  on  that  station  by  £1,922  per  annum. 
They  show,  as  compared  with  present  wages,  an  increase  of  37  per 
cent  for  boundary  riders,  80.86  per  cent  for  musterers,  45  per  cent  for 
general  workers,  46  per  cent  for  drivers,  60  per  cent  for  cooks,  and  33 
per  cent  for  married  couples.  The  owner  of  a  well-equipped  New 
South  Wales  run,  which  carries  150,000  sheep,  states  that  the  pro- 
posed rates  would  increase  his  sheariug  cost  by  £750  and  his  expendi- 
ture on  permanent  labor  by  £1,000,  a  total  of  £1,750  per  annum. 

The  pastorahsts  point  out,  correctly,  that  the  wages  received  by 
shearers  are  already  much  higher  than  those  paid  in  Australia  for 
any  other  kind  of  manual  labor  requiring  an  equal  degree  of  skill. 
Within  the  last  few  years,  since  macninery  came  into  general  use  on 
the  stations,  shearers  have  been  able  easily  to  earn  30s.  in  the  regu- 
lar working  day  of  eight  hours.  This  average  is  frequently  exceeded, 
and  some  men  earn  more  than  40s.  per  day.  The  record  for  high- 
speed machine  shearing  in  an  eight-hour  day  is  316  sheep.  At 
piecework  rates  this  gives  a  return  of  £3  16s.  per  day.  The  shearers' 
organization,  which  is  conducted  on  sociaHstic  principles,  contends 
that  wages  for  station  work  should  be  determined  not  so  much  by 
the  skill  required  or  the  conditions  in  which  the  work  is  done  as  by 
the  profits  which  the  industry  is  yielding.  There  has  been  a  general 
increase  in  the  station  owners'  returns  during  the  past  few  years, 
hence  the  increased  pressure  from  the  union. 

It  can  by  no  means  be  assumed  that  the  workers  would  be  content 
should  the  arbitration  court  materially  disagree  with  their  view. 
Trade  unions  in  Australia  have  frequently  ignored  the  decisions  of 
wages  boards  and  the  arbitration  couit,  anci  reverted  to  the  strike 
as  a  means  of  enforcing  their  claims.    Labor  difficulties  in  the  past 


486 


BEPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOAKB  ON  SCHEDUIaE  K. 


explain  the  smallness  of  the  proportion  of  scoiired  wool  exported  from 
Australia  (see  Appendix  D) :  and  the  pastorabsts  say  that  their  onl^ 
resource  in  the  event  of  further  hostilities  on  the  part  of  the  workers 
union  will  be  to  dispense  with  many  men  who  are  now  employed  m 
minor  operations  (including  the  picldng  and  gradmg  of  the  fleeces). 
to  export  the  wool  as  far  as  possible  in  an  unsorted  cond.ition,  and 
thus  to  leave  more  of  the  work  to  be  done  by  f oreim^  importers. 
They  believe  that  the  loss  in  returns  from  the  sales  which  this  prac- 
tice would  entail  would  be  more  than  counterbalanced  by  the  amount 
saved  in  wages  on  the  stations.  The  unionists  renly  that  they  will 
endeavor  to  prevent  such  action  by  asking  the  arbitration  court  to 
decide  that  the  "roustabouts"  (shed  workers)  kept  on  each  station 
during  the  shearing  shaU  not  be  fewer  than  the  number  of  shearers 
employed. 

EMPLOYMENT   OF  ABORIGINES. 

Scarcity  of  white  labor  rather  than  a  desire  to  save  in  expenditure, 
accounts  for  the  employment  of  aborigines  on  '' back  country  sheep 
runs  in  Western  AustraUa.  They  are  found  chiefly  m  the  Ji.ast 
Kimberley,  West  Kimberley,  and  Murchison  districts.  Ihere  is 
difficulty  in  training  the  blacks.  As  a  class  they  are  fitful  and 
uncertain  workers.  Most  of  them  have  only  recently  emerged  from 
a  state  of  savagery.  Where  the  younger  men  can  be  induced  to 
work  they  serve  as  assistant  boundary  riders,  musterers,  and 
"roustabouts."  As  shearers  they  are  employed  only  in  case  of 
necessity.    White  shearers  usuaUy  refuse  to  work  with  them. 

There  is  no  fixed  pay  for  the  aborigines.  The  average  wage  of 
those  who  assist  the  permanent  station  hands  appeara  to  be  £13 
per  annum,  with  free  rations.  The  flockowners  m  the  three  districts 
named  admit  that  they  save  in  labor  expenses  by  employmg  blacks, 
but  the  majority  agree  that  the  aborigines  wiU  have  to  give  place  to 
whites  as  soon  as  settlement  extends  through  the  country.  It  win 
be  a  repetition  of  experience  elsewhere.  All  over  Australia  the 
aborigines— never  numerous,  and  now  estimated  to  nunaber  not 
more  than  100,000  in  the  country  as  a  whole— are  declining  as  a 
race.  Ah^ady  they  have  almost  enturely  disappeared  from  the 
southern  half  of  Western  AustraUa.  ^        ^    * 

In  the  report  dated  January  16,  1911,  the  Government  protector 
of  abori^es  in  that  State  records  the  results  of  his  latest  personal 
inquiry  Into  the  condition  of  the  nativ^  in  the  northern  pastoral 
districts.  Referring  to  a  current  behef  that  "work  can  be  got  out 
of  any  natives,"  he  says: 

This  is  an  absolutely  erroneous  impreBeion,  aa  it  is  the  experience  of  tJ^oe^convereaiit 
with  SS  phase  of  the  native  question  that  years  of  teaching  are  required  before  a 
Strive  i^wCth  his  salt;  and  toV  to  make.an  adult  bush  naUve  do  hard  work  is  only 
inviting  him  to  leave  the  place  where  he  intended  to  stay.  *  *  *  Many  people 
Srrler  an  impression  th^t  this  kind  of  labor  is  celling  tie  «t^f  ^^^^^fl^^^i^?  ^! 
TuTtliinp  but  the  figures  I  have  obtained  put  a  very  different  complexion  on  the  subject 
fromXt  eenemuHbtain^^^^  The  fig^es  have  been  BuppUe<f  to  me  from  accounte 
dX  ^di^r^^thSre^^^^^  be  reliable.  They  are%om  the  station  bool^.  c^ 
eeveralS^.  ^e  total  12  months*  expenditure  incurred  by  tliese  firms  in  feeding 
and  clothing  407  natives  was  £5,296  9s.  8d. 

With  a  view  to  inducing  the  nomadic  natives  to  settle  down,  become 
self-supporting,  and  cease  raiding  private  stock  (an  offense  of  ^equ^^^^^ 
occurrence),   the  government  of  Western  Austraha  has  recently 


EEPOET  OF  TARIFF   BOARD  ON   SCHEDUUl  K. 


487 


acquired  for  their  use  two  cattle  stations  in  East  Kimberlej,  at  an 
expenditure  of  £18,000.  Should  this  experiment  yield  satisfactory 
results,  similar  stations  will  be  established  on  vacant  State  lands  else- 
where. These  measures  would  seem  to  indicate  that  the  government 
does  not  hope  for  any  large  permanent  absorption  of  native  labor  by 
the  local  employers  on  sheep  and  cattle  stations. 

SHEEP   DISEASES. 

Except  during  severe  droughts,  when  losses  are  reckoned  in  mil- 
lions, the  mortality  among  Australian  sheep  is  small.  In  normal 
periods  the  average  appears  to  be  less  than  2  per  cent.  In  Victoria 
and  in  the  eastern  and  southern  districts  of  New  South  Wales  it  is  less. 
Even  in  South  Australia,  which  is  more  troubled  by  the  dingo  pest 
than  any  other  part  of  the  country,  it  is  estimated  on  the  basis  of 
government  figures  that  the  annual  loss  does  not  exceed  1|  per  cent. 

The  low  average  of  loss  in  ordinary  years  is  explained  by  the 
generally  increasing  efficiency  of  flock  management  and  the  mildness 
of  the  Australian  winter.  In  the  breeding  season  the  flockowner 
looks  for  at  least  70  per  cent  of  lambs.  That  is  a  common  average  on 
many  large  runs.  On  small  runs  in  the  coastal  districts,  and  on  farms 
where  the  raising  of  crossbred  sheep  is  combined  with  agriculture,  the 
record  is  often  between  80  and  90  per  cent.  During  bad  droughts  all 
of  these  records  are  of  course  upset,  and  in  the  low  rainfall  areas  heavy 
losses  occur.  For  example,  tne  drought  which  culminated  in  1902 
reduced  the  total  of  the  flocks  in  Queensland  from  21,000,000  to 
7,000,000.  In  that  disastrous  period  one  pastoral  company  lost  more 
than  1,000,000  sheep  on  its  stations  in  Queensland.  Another  com- 
pany, of  Burrawang,  New  South  Wales,  spent  during  the  same 
drought  £120,000  in  the  purchase  of  fodder  for  its  ewes  and  stud 
rams— a  flock  of  100,000. 

There  is  no  sheep  disease  in  Australia  that  can  be  called  endemic. 
Tick,  louping  ill,  braxy,  anthrax,  intestinal  worms,  and  foot  rot  are 
recurrent  diseases,  particularly  in  the  moist  districts,  but  they  are 
never  found  over  a  large  part  of  the  country  at  one  time;  nor  do 
they  cause  heavy  loss  in  any  case.  At  present  the  only  serious  trouble 
in  the  sheep  country  of  Australia  is  caused  by  blowflies  which  deposit 
their  larvae  about  the  tails  and  thighs  of  the  sheep.  This  nuisance 
has  extended  rapidly  through  the  ''back  country"  of  New  South 
Wales,  Queensland,  and  South  Australia  during  the  past  four  years. 
It  is  attributed  to  the  neglect  of  the  landowners  to  bury  the  carcasses 
of  dead  animals  and  to  the  loss  of  insect-destroying  birds,  which  con- 
sume the  poisoned  bait  laid  for  rabbits. 

The  actual  mortality  caused  by  the  blowfly  is  small,  so  far,  but 
the  sheep  attacked  do  not  thrive,  and  the  principal  remedy,  known  as 
*'crutchmg" — ^i.  e.,  removal  of  the  wool  from  the  hindquarters — in- 
volves the  flockowner  in  a  special  outlay  of  from  2s.  6d.  to  3s.  per 
100  sheep.  In  1910  this  expense  was  avoided  in  the  northern  ais- 
tricts  of  New  South  Wales  by  naving  the  general  shearing  started  from 
four  to  six  weeks  before  the  usual  time,  out  the  saving  thus  effected 
was  counterbalanced  by  loss  in  the  weight  and  staple  of  the  fleece. 

The  pessimism  with  which  some  authorities  regard  the  prospect 
of  overcoming  this  comparatively  new  pest  seems  premature.    The 


488 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


489 


New  South  Wales  stock  inspector  and  other  Government  inspectors 
are  satisfied  that  the  prevalence  of  the  blowfly  wiU  diminish  as  soon  as 
more  care  is  taken  tliroughout  the  country  to  destroy  camon;  and  a 
few  of  the  flockowners  in  New  South  Wales  say  they  have  found  by 
recent  experiments  that  when  young  sheep  are  left  with  4  mches  of 
tail— double  the  usual  length— they  are  able  to  keep  the  flies  off,  and 
so  get  rid  of  the  pest  themselves.  Sheep  dipping  is  compulsory  m 
Victoria  and  the  southwest  portion  of  Western  Australia.  Elsewhere 
it  is  left  to  the  discretion  of  the  flockowners.  It  costs  from  |d. 
to  Id.  per  sheep. 

WORKINQ   COST. 

It  is  the  general  practice  of  pastoralists  to  reckon  both  outlay  and 
profit  at  so  much  per  head  of  sheep.  To  most  of  them  rents  and 
taxation  are  minor  considerations.  Leaseholders  are  entirely  exempt 
from  the  Federal  land  tax  which  is  pressing  so  heavily  on  owners  of 
freehold  runs.  The  size,  cheapness,  tenure,  and  future  possibilities 
of  a  block  of  500  or  1^000  square  miles  interest  an  experienced  flock- 
owner  in  search  of  a  new  investment  less  than  the  actual  proofs 
offered  of  its  present  feeding  capacity,  water  supply,  and  working 
cost.  The  latter  item  is  deemed  of  prime  importance.  If  it  is 
moderate,  there  is  room  for  an  increase  of  the  yearly  returns  by  good 
management.  Over  about  four-fifths  of  the  pastoral  country  of 
New  South  Wales,  Queensland,  and  South  Australia  the  working 
expenses  (including  management,  wages  of  shearers  and  permanent 
workers,  taxes,  and  haulage)  range  between  £100  and  £125  per 
1,000  sheep,  or  28.  to  2s.  6d.  per  head.  In  portions  of  Queensland  and 
in  western  Austraha,  where  the  industry  is  new  and  the  skill  engaged 
in  it  not  as  high  as  in  the  other  States,  the  rate  is  £150  per  1,000  or 
3s.  per  head.    That  is  the  maximum  for  the  country  as  a  whole. 

The  lowest  cost  is  £70  per  1,000  sheep,  but  this  is  correct  only  in 
the  case  of  properties  which  have  advantages  in  position  and  excep- 
tional management.  Apparently  the  average  for  the  Commonwealth 
is  between  2s.  and  2s.  6d.  per  head.  The  standard  of  economy  aimed 
at  and  more  frequently  achieved  by  individual  pastoralists  than  by 
companies  engaged  in  the  industry  is  2s.  per  head.  In  future  yeaxs  a 
further  reduction  of  the  average  will  become  practicable  m  the  whole 
of  the  larger  States,  as  a  result  of  unproved  railway  communication. 
Many  flockowners  contrive  to  pay  the  whole  of  their  station  expenses 
with  the  returns  that  they  get  from  the  sale  of  then-  surplus  stock  m 
the  wool— old  ewes  and  wethers  and  a  proportion  of  lambs— leaving 
as  clear  profit  what  remains  of  the  proceeds  from  the  annual  clip 
after  payment  of  mterest  on  capital.  The  extent  to  which  working 
expenses  can  be  provided  for  in  this  way  depends  on  the  quahty  and 
condition  of  the  stock  kept  and  the  distance  from  market. 

In  districts  remote  from  the  coast  the  holders  of  the  larger  runs 
now  store,  for  the  support  of  their  best  breeding  stock  in  an  emer- 
gency, a  few  weeks'  supply  of  pressed  hay,  oats,  or  other  fodder,  which 
liey  have  either  grown  on  theu-  own  lands  or  purchased,  /af  toral 
companies  are  providing  against  drought  in  the  same  way  and  also  by 
adding  heavily  to  their  reserve  capital.  An  addition  of  100  per  cent 
haa  been  made  to  the  reserves  in  several  cases  withm  the  last  four 
years.    These  two  forms  of  insurance  were  begun  after  1902,  but 


i 


neither  can  at  present  be  regarded  as  sufficient  for  its  purpose.     Any 

f)rolonged  drought  would  cause  a  serious  loss  of  flock  sheep  on  the 
arge  inland  runs.  Pastoralists  face  the  possibiHty  of  a  recurrence  of 
such  losses  as  an  inevitable  risk  of  their  industry.  They  are  generaUy 
incUned,  therefore,  to  be  economical  in  their  outlay  on  fixtures.  '  'You 
would  not  dare,''  they  say,  *'to  spend  more  than  £50  per  square  mile 
in  improving  leased  land  with  a  low  rainfaU." 

Fufiy  equipped  pastoral  leaseholds  in  western  New  South  Wales, 
Queensland,  and  Western  Austraha  seU  at  from  20s.  to  30s.  per 
head  of  the  sheep  they  carry,  the  latter  price  being  very  rarely 
exceeded,  even  when  a  small  homestead  block  of  freehold  land  is  given 
in  with  the  stock,  plant,  and  improvements.  A  common  price  in 
Queensland  and  New  South  Wales  is  25s.  per  head.  In  western  New 
South  Wales  the  average  is  lower.  At  Walgett  North,  for  instance, 
23s.  7d.  per  head  is  the  sale  price  of  a  leased  estate  of  94,800  acres, 
adequately  improved,  permanently  watered  by  the  Narran  River, 
and  carrymg  28,000  sheep.    The  lease  has  32  years  to  run. 

In  South  Austraha  recently  sales  of  two  similar  properties  have 
been  effected  at  prices  averagmg  25s.  and  27s.  SJd.  per  head,  respec- 
tively. In  these  cases  the  leases  have  between  25  ana  30  years  to  run. 
In  the  Gascoyne  district  of  Western  Austraha,  306,994  acres  of  pas- 
toral lease  (with  17  years  of  its  tenure  to  complete)  and  500  acres  of 
freehold,  carrying  25,960  sheep,  was  sold  a  few  months  ago  at  a  price 
averaging  21s.  7d.  per  head  of  the  sheep.  The  property  is  well 
equipped,  and  the  district  has  had  an  annual  rainfall  during  the  past 
10  years  of  9.36  inches. 

RETURNS  FROM  THE  INDUSTRY. 

There  is  general  agreement  among  the  most  experienced  owners  of 
lar^e  sheep  runs,  and  equally  among  the  managers  of  financial  insti- 
tutions which  have  directly  investSi  in  such  properties  on  a  large 
scale  or  acquired  them  under  mortgage  foreclosures,  that  in  normal 
seasons  the  profits  earned  on  leased  lands  are  at  least  double  the 
amount  of  those  obtained  with  flock  sheep  kept  on  freeholds  when 
the  latter  are  used  exclusively  for  pastoral  purposes;  that,  owing  to 
the  increase  of  taxation,  the  rising  value  of  all  areas  favorably  situ- 
ated in  relation  to  railways  and  rainfall,  and  the  power  of  the  State 
governments  to  purchase  at  short  notice  any  estate  required  for 
close  settlement,  freehold  lands  wiU  soon  almost  cease  to  be  used  for 
the  depasturing  of  sheep  except  by  farmers  and  the  owners  of  studs; 
and  that  as  railways  are  extended  into  the  interior  of  Austraha 
further  measures  taken  for  the  conservation  of  water  and  over- 
stocking avoided,  the  returns  from  leasehold  runs  will  become  much 
less  uncertain  than  they  have  been  in  past  years. 

It  is  not  implied  that  the  removal  of  large  flocks  from  freeholds 
must  necessarily  cause  a  decline  in  the  total  quantity  of  the  wool 
grown  on  these  lands.  Where  subdivision  of  estates  has  been  exten- 
sively carried  out,  as  in  Victoria,  experience  of  close  settlement  is  so 
far  tending  to  show  that,  although  the  character  and  ''get  up"  of 
the  wool  grown  undergo  marked  cnanges,  its  quantity  is  not  materi- 
ally decreasing.  While  on  some  blocks,  such  as  those  partly  used 
for  the  support  of  dairy  herds,  woolgrowin^  is  not  pursued,  the 
losses  to  the  clip  in  these  cases  are  frequently  more  than  offset  in 
particular  districts  by  extra  returns  from  sheep  kept  on  agricultural 


490 


BEPOBT  OP  TABIFF  BOABI>  ON   SCHEDUI^  K. 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE   K. 


491 


i 


blocks  where  merinos  ha^e  been  displaced  by  crossbreds  and  the 
carmnff  capacity  of  the  land  has  been  increased.  i     «>,  ^^ 

When  the  market  value  of  a  large  pastoral  freehold  exceeds  £4  or 
£5  per  acre,  the  owner  is  willing  enough  a^  a  rule  ^o  ^fP^^e  of  it 
either  to  one  of  the  governments  or  by  voluntary  subdivision  and 
private  sale.  It  has  become  comparatively  unprofitable  for  the  grow- 
W  of  wool  alone.  The  State  expenditure  for  the  purchase  of  free- 
holds amounts  to  £1,579,958  in  Victoria,  £1,247,000  m  New  South 
Wales,  £1,208,013  'm  Queensland,  £1,111,622  m  South  Australia 
£131,373  m  Western  Austraha,  and  £83,21?  m  Tasmama.  A  total 
of  1,405,738  acres  has  been  acqmred  m  this  way  for  an  outlay  oi 
£5,361,185  durmg  the  past  10  years.  Withm  the  same  penpd  large 
areas  of  freehold^  land,"^  including  2,000,000  acres  m  Victoria,  have 

been  sold  privately  to  agriculturists     Such  J^^^.^^^J^^rTttZh 
at  an  accelerated  rate,  as  a  result  of  the  Federal  land  tax,  of  which 
some  particulars  have  been  given  m  an  earher  section  of  this  report 
But  in  New  South  Wales  and  Queensland  there  are  large  pastoral 
freeholds  which  can  not  be  sold  except  ?t^  loss  because  they  are 
situated  in  districts  which  have  a  low  ramfall  and  are  d^^ant  from 
the  ports.     Thus  they  remain  smtable  only  for  grazmg     Some  are 
now  worth  less  than  the  average  pnce,  20s.  per  acre  at  which  they 
were  purchased  from  the  State  governments.     Nearly  ihe  whole  of 
these  properties,  estimated  to  constitute  one-sixth  of  the  pastoral 
freehofds^in  Austraha,   are   mortgaged  for  .amounts   repr^«^tmg 
between   one-half  and   two-thirds  o!  their  improved   value.    The 
Federal  land  tax,  if  not  speeddy  amended  mil  operate  with  crushing 
effect  upon  their  owners!^  In  portions  of  New  feouth  Wales   where 
the  can^g  capacity  of  the  land  is  low,  it  wiU  be  equivalent  to  a  tax 
of  2s.  per  head^of  the  flock  slieep  niamtamed  on  freeholds.     It  w^^^ 
absorb  the  whole  of  the  balance  ol  annual  profit  left  after  payment  of 
interest  on  loans.     In  present  circumstances,  therefore,  these  estates 
are  commercially  unprofitable.    Their  position  is  without  par^aM  m 
the  histoiy  of  the  AustraUan  wool  mdustry,  and  involves  such  obvious 
hardship  that  it  can  not  remam  long  without  amehoraUon. 

THE  FUTURE  OF  THE  INDUSTEY. 

To  what  extent,  it  may  be  asked,  is  Australia  capable  of  increasing 
its  production  of  wool,  and  of  merino  wool  m  particular  ?  It  will  be 
of  service  to  mention  a  few  additional  facts  which  bear  upon  this 
question.  In  some  recently  published  references  to  the  pastoral 
mdustry  in  Austraha  one  finds  a  behef  that  lis  further  development 
must  proceed  at  a  relatively  slow  r^^e;  and  excessive  imporU 
appeal  to  be  attached  to  the  effect  upon  the  mdustry  of  the  purchase 
ahd  subdivision  of  freehold  estates  for  agricultural  settlement.  On 
the  latter  pomt  two  or  three  remarks  may  be  made.  1  be  tu^t  is  mat 
the  total  wea  of  the  estates  subdivided  is  mfimtesimal  m  compw'ison 
with  the  aggregate  of  the  new  pastoral  lands  which  are  now  beinff 
taken  up  alewhere  under  lease  or  license,  notably  m  Queensland 
and  Western  Austraha.  Secondly,  it  should  be  remembered-the 
fact  has  been  referred  to  m  an  earlier  section  of  this  report— that  m 
manv  mstances  woolgrowing  is  alternated  with  agriculture  m  closely 
settled  districts.  When  an  estate  is  cut  up  ^lie  wool  poduced  on  it 
for  many  years  is  missed  from  the  markets.  But  after  an  mterval 
the  new  settlers  on  the  subdivided  land  begin  to  keep  sheep,  and  the 


big  clip  is  replaced  by  several  small  clips  which  in  the  aggregate 
ultimately  equal  it,  or  even  exceed  it,  in  quantity.  The  cessation  of 
the  original  supply  is  noticed  because  it  is  sudden.  The  new  supply, 
coming  gradually,  is  often  overlooked  except  by  brokers  at  Melbourne 
and  Sydney  and  by  others  directly  interested. 

The  increase  in  "farmers'  lots"  of  both  merino  and  crossbred 
wools  is  proceeding  rapidly  in  the  State  of  Victoria  and  in  a  slightly 
lesser  degree  in  New  South  Wales.  These  wools  are  at  the  same 
time  improving  in  quality  and  in  the  method  of  their  preparation  for 
the  marKet.  As  most  of  the  freehold  estates  acquired  for  agricul- 
tural settlement  have  been  subdivided  only  within  the  last  five  years, 
the  new  development  of  sheep  farming  has  not  yet  had  time  to  make 
its  capabilities  generally  apparent.  As  far  as  one  can  judge  at 
present,  the  only  marked  ana  permanent  effect  of  the  change  in  the 
occupation  of  the  lands  will  oe  not  a  serious  decline  in  the  total 
quantity  of  wool  produced,  but  substitution  in  many  cases  of  cross- 
bred or  of  "robust"  merino  for  the  finer  grades  of  merino  hitherto 
grown  on  the  lands  in  question.  A  prominent  American  buyer, 
speaking  from  personal  observation  at  the  first  and  second  series  of 
tne  1910-11  sales  in  Austraha,  states  that  the  wools  at  both  series 
showed  "deterioration"  in  comparison  with  those  of  previous  j^ears' 
clips  from  which  he  had  made  purchases.  His  unfavorable  criticism 
was  specially  applied  to  Victorian,  Mudgee,  New  England,  and  Tas- 
manian  wools.  Experienced  pastoralists  and  brokers  say  that  the 
word  "deterioration,"  which  others  have  also  used,  is  misapplied; 
that  what  is  actually  taking  place  is  a  decrease  in  the  supply  of 
certain  kinds  of  fine  merino  regularly  looked  for  by  American  and 
European  buvers.  Of  other  grades  of  merino  wool  there  is  every 
probability  that  there  will  he  for  many  years  a  continuously  in- 
creasing supply. 

The  Australian  wool  industry,  in  which  the  aggregate  capital 
directly  engaged  is  estimated  at  £260,000,000^  has  been  brought  to 
its  present  dimensions  by  a  people  still  small  m  numbers — the  total 
population  of  the  Commonwealth  is  less  by  300,000  than  that  of 
Greater  New  York — and  while  cheap  communication  with  most  of 
the  great  inland  prairies  remains  entirely  lacking,  agriculture  (in 
the  sense  of  cereal  production,  dissociated  from  sheep  farming)  is 
making  comparatively  slow  progress.  The  figures  given  in  Appen- 
dix J  show  the  vast  extent  of^unoccupied  territory  in  Australia.  The 
capacity  of  the  existing  leaseholds  will  be  increased  within  the  next 
10  years,  when  the  risk  of  carrying  the  full  complement  of  stock  shall 
have  been  diminished  by  the  estabhshment  of  better  communication 
with  the  well-watered  districts,  and  it  is  certain  that  the  same  increase 
of  transport  facilities  will  cause  a  swift  extension  of  settlement  on 
vacant  lunds  which  are  at  present  useless  on  account  of  their  long 
distance  from  the  ports.  Queensland  is  proceeding  to  spend  £6,- 
000,000  and  New  South  Wales  £4,250,000  on  the  building  of  inland 
railways,  most  of  which  wiU  be  of  special  service  to  the  pastoralists. 
The  extensions  in  the  north  will  make  a  total  of  1,730  miles  of  track. 
On  their  completion  no  part  of  Queensland  will  be  more  than  100 
miles  from  a  railway  and  no  sheep  run  more  than  50  miles. 

Meanwhile  arrangements  are  being  made  for  starting  the  construc- 
tion of  two  transcontinental  lines— one  to  establish  communication 
through  Central  Australia  between  Adelaide  and  Port  Darwin  and  the 
other  to  link.up  the  railway  systems  of  South  Australia  and  Western 


492 


EEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  OK   SCHEDUO:  K. 


Australia.  Both  of  these  great  undertakings  will  give  a  pronounced 
stimulus  to  the  pastoral  industry.  In  the  Northern  Territory  alone 
16,000,000  acres  of  rich  table-lands,  hitherto  almost  useless  through 
their  isolation,  will  be  made  available.  The  new  railways  will  also 
add  largely  to  wool  production  in  the  northern  district  of  South 
Australia  and  in  the  eastern  division  of  Western  Australia.  Bv  far 
the  greater  part  of  the  new  country  about  to  be  opened  up  by  raflway 
construction  in  Australia  is  within  low  ramfall  areas.  Being  there- 
fore unsuitable  for  close  agricultural  settlement,  it  will  remain  perma- 
nently in  the  occupation  of  pastoralists.  The  bulk  of  the  wool  grown 
by  them  will  be  merino  of  the  long-staple,  robust  variety.  Artesian 
water  supplies  will  supplement  the  conserved  rainfall  m  most  of  the 
dry  districts.  Many  additions  are  being  made  to  these  supplies. 
Tests  recently  carried  out  by  the  Government  of  Western  Australia 
have  proved  that  artesian  water  can  be  supplied  to  stock  in  the 
northern  part  of  that  State  across  1,000  miles  of  land  hitherto  re- 
garded as  a  desert.  ,  ,      .      .  i.     ,         t.       i. 

Woolgrowing  on  inland  leaseholds  m  Australia  has  often  been 
describexl  as  a  ''gamble"  from  the  financial  point  of  view.  Such  it 
must  always  remain  to  some  extent,  but  the  risks  are  everywhere 
being  substantially  diminished,  while  the  profits  continue  sufficiently 
high  to  stimulate  enterprise.  The  losses  caused  to  the  pastoral 
industry  by  the  great  drought  which  terminated  in  1902  have  been 
estimated  at  £  130,000,000.  That  disaster  taught  lessons  of  prudence 
which  can  never  be  forgotten.  The  industrv  is  now  bemg  worked 
on  safer  lines,  and  the  protective  measures  taken  by  those  engaged  in 
it  will  soon  be  strengthened  by  the  Government  railway  and  water- 
conservation  policies.  In  the  opinion  of  men  who  have  had  a  long 
acquaintance  with  the  industry,  Australia  should  ultimately  be 
capable  of  carrying  at  least  150,000,000  sheep,  while  providing  for  a 
greatly  increased  export  of  mutton. 

Appendix  A. 
Number  of  sheep  in  the  Australian  States  from  1884  to  1909. 
[Figures  taken  from  tlie  CommoB wealth  budget  statement  of  1910-11.] 


New  South 
Wales. 


.884. 
885. 
886. 
,887. 
.888. 
889. 
830. 
891. 
892. 
893. 
8M. 

89t>. 
897. 
898. 


000. 
901. 
902. 
903. 
904. 
905. 
906. 
907. 
908. 
909. 


31,660,321 
37,820,906 
39,169,304 
46,965,152 
46,503.4<J9 
60. 106, 768 
55.98tl,431 
61,831,416 
58,080.114 
56,980,688 
6t),  977, 270 
47.617,(»7 
48,318,790 
43,952,897 
41,241,004 
36,213.514 
40,020,506 
41.857,099 
26,049,424 
28,65tl.501 
34,526,894 
39,506,764 
44. 132,  421 
44,4t)1.839 
43.370,797 
46,194,178 


Victoria. 


Queens- 
land. 


10,637,412 
10,681,837 
10,700,403 
10.623,985 
10,818,575 
10,882,231 
12,692,843 
12.928,148 
12,9(i5.306 
13,098,725 
13,180,943 
12,791,084 
12.401,225 
12,011,367 
11,621,508 
11,231,649 
10,841.790 
10,673,265 
10,504,741 
10,336,216 
10,167.691 
11,455,115 
12,937,410 
14. 146, 734 
12,545,742 
12,937,983 


9,308,911 
8,994,322 
9.690.445 
12,926,158 
13,444,005 
14,470,095 
18,007,234 
20,289,633 
21,708,310 
18,607.015 
19,587,6»1 
19,856,059 
19.593,606 
17,797,883 
17,552,608 
15,226,479 
10,339,185 
10,030,971 
7,213,985 

Of  tSvAt  Uvv 
10,843.470 
12,535,231 
14,886,438 
16,738.047 
18,348,851 
19,593,791 


South  Aus- 
tralia. 


Western 
Australia. 


6.696.406 
6,643.565 
6, 590, 724 
6,537.883 
6,485,042 
6,432,201 
7,050,544 
7,745,541 
7,209,500 
7,007,772 
6,806,046 
6,604,319 
6,602,593 
5,092,078 
5,076,696 
5,721,493 
5,283,247 
6,060.540 
4,922,0*2 
6,350,258 
6,874,979 
6.202,330 
6.661,217 
6,873,869 
6,952.499 
6,475,431 


1,547.061 
1,702.719 
1,809.071 
1.909,940 
2,112,392 
2,3(56,681 
2,524,913 
1,962,212 
1,685,500 
2,220,642 
2,132,311 
2.295,832 
2,248,976 
2,210.742 
2,251,548 
2,282.306 
2.434,311 
2, 625, 865 
2,704,880 
2.600.6.33 
2,853,424 
3. 120. 703 
3,340,747 
3,684,974 
4,097,324 
4,731,737 


Tasmania. 


1,720,027 
1,648.627 
1,609.M6 
1,647,242 
1,430,0(55 
1,551,429 
1,619.256 
1,664.118 
1,(523,338 
1,535,047 
1,727,200 
1,523,846 
1,650.567 
1,678,611 
1,493,(>38 
1,672,068 
1,683.956 
1,792.481 
1,672.  USS 
1,597.053 
1,657,460 
1,583.561 
1.729,394 
1,744,800 
1,728.053 
1,734,761 


REPOKT  OF  TABIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 

Sheep  in  the  Australian  Commonwealth  from  1884  to  1909. 


493 


Year. 


1884 

1885 
1886 
1887 
1888 
1889 
1890 
1891 
1892 
1893 
1894 
1895 
1896 


Number. 


61,570,138 

67,491,976 

69,568,993 

80,510,360 

80,793,548 

85,809,405 

97,881,221 

106,421,068 

103,272,068 

99,539,889 

100,411,461 

90,689,727 

90,615,847 


Year. 


1897.. 
1898- . 
1899.. 
1900- . 
1901.. 
1902.. 
1903- . 
1904.. 
1905.. 
1906.. 
1907.. 
1908., 
19091 


Number. 


82,643,578 
79,237,002 
72,347,509 
70,602,996 
72,040,211 
53,668,347 
56,932,705 
65,823,918 
74,403,704 
83,687,655 
87,650,263 
87,043,266 
91,667,881 


I  A  later  official  calculation  gives  the  total  for  1909  as  92,044,874. 

Appendix  B. 
ProduHion  of  wool  in  the  Australian  States,  1900  to  1909. 


Years. 


1900 
1901 
1902 
1903 
1904 
1905 
1906 
1907 
1908 
1909 


New  South 
Wales. 


Pounds. 
243,543,500 
313,812,284 
222,422,562 
230,736,191 
254,137,939 
302,494,870 
332,380,646 
375,224,448 
344,550,707 
379,388,356 


Victoria. 


Pounds. 

49,028,000 

86,786,834 

78,498,152 

61,866,675 

86,125,619 

74, 746, 552 

78,258,113 

120,017,787 
93,999,156 

112,102,446 


Queensland. 


Pounds. 

65,141,000 

72,405,110 

45,350,633 

65,606,362 

66,843,252 

72,323,361 

88,068,089 

104,173,964 

115,283.309 

127,631,834 


South  Aus- 
tralia. 


Pounds. 
35,677,400 
44,552,586 
42,792,909 
44,399,971 
40,207,376 
41,221,437 
48,928,116 
57,830,794 
62,040,731 
66, 415, 539 


Western 
Australia. 


Tasmania. 


Pounds. 

9,328,800 
15,304,648 
14,633,006 
14,644,941 
13,963,693 
19,523,003 
17,437,645 
22,013,541 
22,450,624 
30,048,360 


Pounds. 

6.675.900 

10,270,199 

9,616,446 

6,867,427 

12,320,563 

11,752,777 

12,600,822 

10,878,478 

13,859,765 

12,550,598 


Total  production  of  wool  in  the  Australian  Comm/ynwealth,  1900  to  1909. 


Years. 


1900 
1901 
1902 

1903 
1904 


Amount. 


Pounds. 
409,394.600 
543,131,661 
413,313,708 
414,120,5(57 
473,598,442 


Years. 


1905 
1906 
1907 
1908 
1909 


Amount. 


Pounds. 
522,062,000 
677,673,431 
690,139,012 
642,184,282 
718,037,132 


Appendix  C. 
Exports  oj  wool  from  the  Commonwealth  of  Australia,  1900  to  1909. 


Years. 


1900 

1901 

1902 

1903 

1904 

1905 

1906 

1907 

1908 

1909 

1910  (id  months) 


Greasy. 


Quantity. 


Pounds. 
280,043,876 
385,191,184 
286,579,459 
263,419,710 
339,219,779 
380,240,424 
415,353,690 
512,756,896 
471,832,275 
529,020,213 
340,654,716 


Value. 


£9,633,328 
11,673,176 
9,595,482 
9,600,599 
13,139,941 
16,674,616 
17,547,037 
22,928,011 
18,027,930 
20,603,450 
13,612,417 


Scoured  and  washed. 


Quantity. 


Pounds. 

65,678,986 

66,368,856 

49,374,477 

61,143,320 

55,911,046 

56,775,423 

64,889,295 

72,318,065 

70,915,494 

73,585,927 

59,633,588 


Value. 


£3,715,113 
3,561,528 
3,147,531 
4,396,631 
3,975,393 
4,247,700 
5,098,732 
5,963.819 
4,886,730 
4,821,022 
4,070,987 


494 


BEPOBT  OP  TABIFF  BOABB  ON  SCHEDUI^  K. 


Note  on  Appendix  C— This  was  specially  prepared  for  this  report  in  December, 
1910,  by  the  statistical  branch  of  the  Commonwealth  customs  department.  The 
Commonwealth  statistician's  Production  Bulletin  No.  4,  received  in  London  in 
May,  1911,  gives  on  page  39  the  "net  export  of  wool"  in  1909  at  676,520,093  pounds; 
but  this  does  not  a^ree  with  the  "net  export"  of  wool  published  on  page  43  of  the 
Bame  official  bulletin.  The  total  given  there  is  602,454,221  pounds,  which  differs 
but  slightly  from  the  total  supplied  by  the  Conmionwealth  customs  department. 


Appendix  D. 

Commonwealth  wool  exports  in  bales. 
tCompfled  by  Dalgety  &  Co.] 


Year. 


1900-1901 
1901-2... 
1902-3... 
1903-4... 
1904-5... 
1905-«... 
1906-7... 
1907-8... 

XinjRSr'ij.  m  • 

1909-10.. 


Total  ex- 
ports. 


Bales. 
1,222,990 
1,267,936 
1,014,768 

994.796 
1,218,969 
1,454,820 
1.663,130 
1,620,890 
1,796,347 
1,921,507 


Merino. 

Quantity. 

Per  cent. 

Baks. 

1,027,312 

84 

1,103,104 

87 

872,700 

86 

856,525 

86 

1,072,693 

88 

1,265,693 

87 

1,446,923 

87 

1,393,965 

86 

1,562,822 

87 

1,652,666 

86 

Xbd.  and  strong 
wools. 


Quantity. 


Bales. 
195,678 
164,832 
142,068 
139,271 
146,276 
189, 127 
216,207 
226,925 
233,525 
269,039 


Per  cent. 


16 
13 
14 
14 
12 
13 
13 
14 
13 
14 


Tbe  average  net  weight  per  bale  is  335.5  pounds. 

Appendix  E. 

Local  prices  of  Australian  merino  wools  for  10  years. 
[Compiled  by  Dalgety  &  Co.] 


190&-1901 
1901-2... 
1902^... 
19<B-4... 
1901-5... 
1905-6... 
190t>-7... 
1907-8... 
1908-9... 
190nO.- 


Gfeasy  (av- 
erage qual- 
ty),  average 
price  per 
pound. 


i. 


11 

10| 
11 
Hi 
12 

*^ 

11 


Superior 
greasy,  high- 
est prices  per 

pound. 


13 
131 

171 

10 

17f 

17| 

18^ 

20| 

19 

21 


Scoured  (av- 
erage qual- 
ity), average 
prices. 


i. 


14| 

15! 
19^ 
19 

ao 

21i 
2ll 

19) 
181 
2ll 


Appendix  F. 
DistribvMon  of  wool  sold  in  principal  AiLStralian  markets. 

[Expressed  in  percentages.] 


Season. 


190&-6 

1906-7 

1907-8 

1908-9 

1900-10 0 


New  South  Wales. 


I 


12| 

11{ 

11 

19i 

Hi 


76J 
77i 

m 

711 
79} 


s 


Victoria. 


88 

34 

3' 

34 

30 


» 

i 


47 

429 

47i 

46 

52 


11 

4 

161 

5 

8i 

i 

13 

e 

m 

H 

South  Australia. 


471 

47f 
43 
38 
43 


3^ 

45 
441 


n 
I' 

31 
3i 


Queensland. 


I 

•a 


17 

49 
34 
21 


a 


I 


72 

52} 

49i 

581 

67 


09 


H 


i 


BEPORT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDUI.E  K. 


495 


Percentage  distribtUion  of  total  Australian  sales. 


1905-6. 
1906-7. 
1907-8. 
1908-9. 
190^10 


United 
Kingdom. 


Per  cent. 
23} 
23( 


23f 

26| 

27 

21J 


Continent. 


Per  cent. 
63i 
601 
63} 
61 
66 


United 
States. 


Percent. 


Other  des- 
tinations. 


Percent. 


81 
8 


Appendix  G. 

Approximxite  prices  of  Australian  wools  in  principal  markets  at  the  close  of  the  1909-10 

season. 


Price. 


NEW  SOUTH  WALES. 

Greasy  merino: 

E  xtra  super  fleece 

Super  fleece 

Good  fleece 

Inferior  and  heavy  conditioned 
fleece 

Super  lambs 

Good  Iambs 

Medium  lambs 

Heavy  conditioned  burry  lambs. . 
Greasy  crossbred  fleece: 

Fme  quality,  extra  special 

Medium  quality 

Coarse  quality 

Scoured  merino: 

Super  combing 

Good 

Fair  average 

Inferior 

QUEENSLAND. 

Greasy  merino: 

Extra  super  fleece 

Super  fleece 

Good  fleece 

Inferior  fleece 

Super  lambs 

Good  lambs 

Medium  lambs 

Short  and  heavy  lambs 

Scoured  merino: 

Super  combing 

Good 

Fair  average  fleece 

Inferior  fleece 

VICTORIA. 

Greasy  merino:| 

Extra   super  combing   (western 

district ) 

Special  lots 

Super  combing  (western  district). 
Super  combing  (other  districts). . 
Good  combing 


Pence. 
15  -16 
13  -14 

11  -12J 

8-10 
14J-15* 

12  -13 
9  -10 
6i-8 

14H6i 

10-11 

7-8 

24-25 
22-23 
18-20 
16-17 


14H5i 

12|-13| 

11  -12 

9  -10 

11  -12 

9H0J 

8-9 

6i-7J 

24  -25 
22  -23 
20J-21i 
16H7J 


17-19 
21 
16-17 
15-16 
12  -14i 


Price. 


VICTORIA— continued. 

Greasy  merino — Continued : 

Medium  to  inferior  combing  (free). 

Inferior  combing  (burry) 

Extra  super  lambs 

Super  lambs 

Good  lambs  (free) 

tiferior  and  burry  lambs 

Western   Victorian    extra   super 

comeback  or  fine  crossbred  (568 

to  58s  quality) 

Super  comeback  or  fine  crossbred 

(56s  to  58s  quality) 

Good  comeback  (free) 

Inferior  and  burry 

Super  crossbred,  medium  quality, 

viz,  46s  (western  district) 

Good  average  Lincoln  (40s  quality) 

Super  crossbred  lambs 

Good  crossbred  lambs 

Medium  crossbred  lambs 

Scoured  merino: 

Extra  super  combing 

Super  combing 

Medium  combing 

Seedy,  burry,  inferior  fleece 

SOUTH  AUSTRALIA. 

Greasy: 

Best  merino  fleece 

Good  merino  fleece 

Inferior,    wasty,    burry    merino 

Best  comeback  and  JGLne  crossbred 
fleece 

Good  comeback  and  fine  crossbred 
fleece 

Inferior  comeback  and  fine  cross- 
bred fleece 

Best  crossbred  fleece,  medium  to 

strong  quality 

Scoured: 

Best  merino  fleece 

Good  merino  fleece 

Inferior  merino  fleece  (burry  or 
seedy) 


Pence. 

lOJ-lli 

8-10 

23 

15  -17 

12  -13 

6-7J 


17-18 

15  -161 

13H4 

9-10| 

13-15 

8-9 

13  -16 

11  -12 

8H0 

24-25 
22  -23i 
20-21 
17-18 


1331-15 
10i-12i 

7J-8J 

12J-13J 

11  -12 

8i-10 

9J-11 

22  -234 
20-2l| 

l^-18 


496 


EEPOBT  OP  TABIFF  BOABD  OK  SCHEDULE   K. 


For  comparison  with  the  foregoing  table  the  foUowing  figures  are 

fven  from  tlie  Commonwealth  statistician's  "Production  Bulletin 
o.  4/' 


Class  of  wooi 


New  South 
Wales. 


JHivl-A.l'* 

mum. 


Greasy  merino: 

Extra  super 

Superior 

Good 

Average 

Wasty  and  inferior 

Extra  super  Iambs 

Super  lambs 

Good  lambs 

Average  lambs 

Inferior  lambs 

Greasy  crossbred: 

Extra  super  comebacks 

Super  comebacks 

Fine  crossbred 

Medium  crossbred 

Coarse  crossbred  and  Lincoln 

Superior  fine  crossbred  lambs 

Good  crossbred  Iambs 

Coarse  and  Lincoln  lambs 

Scoured: 

Extra  super  fleece 

Super  fleece 

Good  fleece 

Average  fleece 


Mini- 
mum. 


191 


d. 

]^ 

'^ 

6 

13 

12 
9 
74 


144 
1? 


Victoria. 


Maxi- 
mum. 


7. 
6 
11 
8i 
6 

24i 
21} 
20 
17 


Mini- 
mum. 


d. 
18 
16 
13 
12 

n 

21 
15 

Hi 

9 
5 

17 
15 
13 
10 

13 
11 

8 

24 
22 
20 
19 


South 
Australia. 


Maxi- 
mum. 


d. 
15 
111 

6 

Hi 
94 

8 
4 

l^ 

12 
13 
lOi 
13 
13 
10} 
91 

21i 
20 
18i 
16| 


Mini- 
mum. 


Tasmania. 


Maxi- 
mum. 


17i 


6 
5 


14i 

14 
13. 
1», 


lOi 

7 


Mini- 
mum. 


Note.— Similar  information  not  available  lor  Queensland  and  Western  Australia. 

Appendix  H. 

Exports  o/mutton  and  lamb  from  the  Commonwealth  of  Australia. 


d. 


14 


? 


12 

12 

10 

8 


8 
5 


Years. 


mm 

1901 
1902 
1903 

XVLtx 

1905 
1906 
1907 
1908 
1909 


Mutton. 


Quantity. 


Pounds. 

66.846,864 

64,175,093 

44,105,600 

35,753,124 

47,863,532 

86,858,344 

90,692,385 

109,227,757 
91,607,614 

116,915,639 


Value. 


£667,738 

726,186 

543,422 

489,934 

657,361 

1,111,969 

1,095,120 

1,377,502 

1,219,107 

1,231,035 


Value  of 
sheepskins 
exported. 


£619,775 
687,320 
1,077,767 
1,070.662 
847,288 
1,336,323 
1,614,463 
1,848,433 
1,260,878 
1,748,952 


KEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDUI«E  K. 


497 


Appendix  I. 
Typical  pastoral  areas  in  Australia,  held  under  government  leases. 

NEW  SOUTH  WALES. 


Holdings. 


Momba 

Yancannla 

Kallara 

Corona 

Albemarle 

Lake  Victory 

Netley 

Tolamo 

Kinchega 

Moorara 

Salisbury  Downs 

Dunlop 

Macnamurtee 

Kilfera 

Nelyambo 

Nundoro 

Mount  Gipps 

Nocoleche 

Poolamacca 

Maranoa 


Area. 

Rent  per 

acre. 

Acres. 

8.  d. 

1,080,4€2 

0.15 

1,043,872 

.10 

988,228 

.21 

827, 458 

.16 

717,292 

.15 

661,436 

.25 

650,504 

.20 

635,730 

.80 

503,086 

.25 

503,170 

.10 

495, 801 

12.50 

435,907 

.62 

415, 842 

.15 

411,398 

.12 

404,233 

.80 

416,064 

12.50 

363,414 

.18 

343,600 

.80 

351,493 

.18 

309,636 

.32 

Holdings. 


Urisino 

Morden 

Boorooma 

Wonorainta.. 

Trida 

Manfred 

Billilla 

Carnpimg 

Coan  Downs.. 

Winbar 

Carrong 

Cultowa 

Mundi  Mundi 

Milroy 

Murtee 

Lila  Springs.. 

Mossgiel 

Tintinallogy. . 

Tupra 

Til  Til 


Area. 


Acres. 
313,735 
295, 325 
250,057 
293,185 
264, 162 
277,266 
224,990 
200.000 
221, 672 
279, 770 
258, 781 
198,034 
155, 280 
153,991 
176,660 
152,022 
128, 127 
143,392 
130,417 
164,933 


Rent  per 
acre. 


s.  d. 

0.80 
.80 

L26 
12.50 
.10 
12.50 
.20 
.13 
.15 
.38 
.63 
.22 
.30 

1.50 
.33 
.30 
.40 
.19 
.$7 
.46 


QUEENSLAND. 


Holdings. 


Sandringham 

Nockatunga 

Milo 

Goodwood 

Glenormiston 

Davenport  Downs 
Durham  Downs . . 

Palparara 

Warbreccan 

Barclay  Downs. . . 

Lawn  Hill 

Kyabra 

Comongin 

Thurulgoona 

Uanda 

Tinnenburra 

Bertila 

Wellshot 

Mount  Marlow — 


jfvr6st. 


Sq. 


miles. 
3,032 
2,900 
2,800 
2,223 
2,100 
2,246 
2,716 
2,566 
2,180 
1,748 J 
l,654.i 
1,592 
1,417 
1.265 
1,2(X) 
1,546 
970 
962 
912 


Rent  per 

square 

mile. 

«.  d. 

3    0 

8    0 

15    0 

28    0 

5    0 

7    3 

5    0 

6    0 

17    0 

4    5 

13    6 

10    0 

15    0 

27    0 

16    6 

25    0 

5    0 

60    0 

19    0 

Holdings. 


Boorara 

Tilbooroo 

Beechal 

Currawinya 

Dynevor  Downs. . . 

Surbiton 

Bowen  Downs 

Yarron  Vale 

Mount  Garnish 

Woolerina 

Natal  Downs 

Beaufort 

Boothulla 

Tocal 

Mount  Hulton 

Noondoo 

Darr  River  Downs 
Homeboin 


Aiea. 


Sq.  miles. 
850 
883 
805 
755 
747 
744 
714 
669 
626 
601 
600 
573 
552 
529 
526 
444 
418 
450 


Rent  per 

square 

mile. 


s.  d. 

13  2 

14  6 

15  6 

16  0 
15  0 

15  0 
34  6 
12  6 
34  3 

16  0 
20  0 

12  0 

13  6 
30  0 
25  0 
45  0 
47  3 
20  0 


WESTERN  AUSTRALIA. 


Location  of  holding. 


Kimterley 
Peak  Hill.. 

Do.... 
Gascoyne. . 

Do.... 
Lyndon . . . 
Gascoyne. . 

Bulga 

Lyndon.. . 
Ashburton 
PeakHilL. 
Yalgoo 


Area. 


Acres. 

538,400 
518,000 
420,000 
369,000 
300,246 
343.000 
332,900 
300,000 
295,000 
290,000 
275,000 
240,000 


Total 

annual    || 

rent. 

£    s. 

d. 

269  18 

0 

259    0 

0 

210    0 

0 

185    0 

0 

180    0 

0 

171  10 

0 

166  10 

0 

37  10 

0 

147  10 

0 

145    0 

0 

34    7 

6 

120    0 

0 

Location  of  holding. 


Balladonia 

Peawah 

Coolgardie 

Windell 

WestPilbarra.. 

Victoria 

Do 

East  Murchison 

Gascoyne 

Yalgoo 

Fitzroy 

Dungan 


Area. 


A cres. 
248,344 
247,000 
250,000 
239,000 
201,600 
190,400 
117,500 
100,000 
175,560 
100,000 
164,000 
114,000 


Total 

annual 
rent. 


£   s.  d. 

37    6  0 

122  10  0 

31    5  0 

60    0  0 

101    0  0 

10    0  0 

59    0  0 

12    6  8 

88    0  0 

12  10  0 

82    0  0 

57    0  0 


i  Per  section. 
32080°— H.  Doc.  342,  G2-2,  vol  1 32 


498 


BEPORT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDXTUS  K. 

Appendix  J. 
Condition  of  the  public  estate  in  Australia. 


State. 

Aro*. 

Alienated  and  in 
process  of  aliena- 
tion. 

Held  under  lease  or 
lioea.se   from    the 
Crown. 

Unoccupied. 

Aim. 

Per 
cent. 

Area. 

Per 

cent. 

Area. 

Per 

oant. 

New  South  Wales 

Victoria 

Acrei. 
198,638,080 

56,245,760 
429,120,000 
243,244,800 
335,116,800 
624,588,800 

16,777,600 

Acres. 

51,265,068 

27,964,666 

21,309,360 

9,651,181 

473,809 

14,002,938 

5,718,146 

25.80 

40.72 

4.97 

3.97 

.14 

2.24 

34.09 

Acres. 
129,150,578 
15,955,346 
273,307,365 
102,617,100 
103,419,428 
161,255,807 

1,505,774 

65.02 
28.36 
63.69 
42.20 
30.86 
25.82 
8.97 

Acres. 

18,222,434 

12,325,750 

134,503,266 

130,968,519 

231,223,563 

499,329,965 

9,553,680 

9.18 
21.92 
31.34 
53.83 
69.00 
71.04 
56.94 

Queensland ■ 

South  Australia 

Northern  Territory 

Western  Australia 

Ta.<im|inia 

The  Commonwealth. . 

1,903,731,840 

130,393,166 

6.84 

787,211,488 

41.36 

986,127,186 

51.80 

PART  II.  RAW  WOOLS-ADDENDA. 


NOTES  ON  FLOCK  HUSBANDRY  IN  NEW  ZEALAND  AND 

THE  AFRICAN  CAPE  COLONIES. 


499 


NEW  ZEALAND   CONDITIONS.* 

New  Zealand  oceupies  about  the  same  position  in  the  Southern 
Hemisphere  that  Great  Britain  does  in  the  Northern,  covering  two 
large  islands  known  as  North  Island  and  South  Island,  having  a  total 
length  of  close  to  1,000  miles,  with  an  average  width  of  150  miles. 
The  soils  are  unusually  well  adapted  to  the  growth  of  grasses  and 
ordinary  crops.  The  total  area  is  66,861,440  acres,  and  the  number 
of  sheep  in  1910  was  23,792,947. 

Sheep  were  taken  into  New  Zealand  soon  after  its  settlement  by 
Europeans,  in  the  year  1840.  At  the  beginning  nothing  but  merinos 
were  miported,  but  as  the  needs  of  the  trade  developed  it  was  found 
advisable  to  turn  more  to  the  mutton  breeds.  On  this  account  the 
number  of  merinos  in  New  Zealand  has  steadily  decreased,  until  in 
the  year  1910  it  is  estimated  that  merino  wools  do  not  form  over  3  per 
cent  of  the  total  cHp. 

In  1887  the  shipping  of  frozen  mutton  began,  and  the  business  has 
increased  steadily,  until  to-day  few  flockmasters  in  New  Zealand 
consider  the  wool  as  a  primary  object  in  raising  sheep,  but  devote 
themselves  to  the  mutton  end  of  the  business,  accepting  the  wool  as 
an  incidental  profit.     What  merinos  are  held  in  New  Zealand  are 

f  razed  in  the  drier,  rougher  portions  of  the  islands,  where  the  cross- 
reds  would  not  do  as  well.  As  in  Australia,  the  Government,  recog- 
nizing the  paramount  importance  of  the  sheep  industry,  has  done 
everything  possible  to  foster  and  encourage  the  business  and  advance 
the  interests  of  the  sheep  grower. 

Climate. — The  climate  of  both  islands  is  very  even,  with  few  ex- 
tremes. Droughts  such  as  are  known  in  Australia  or  western  America 
have  never  been  known.  The  rains  keep  the  feed  green  and  succulent 
nearly  all  the  year  round,  thus  tending  to  a  fine  growth  of  wool  as 
weU  as  mutton. 

Climates  range  from  warm  temperate  to  cool  temperate;  severe 
droughts  are  unknown,  and,  excepting  in  the  South  Island,  winter, 
in  the  term  as  understood  in  the  tJnited  States,  does  not  occur.  In 
the  South  Island  there  is  considerable  snow  in  the  higher  mountains, 
necessitating  the  removal  of  the  sheep  for  several  months  in  the 
year.  In  this  respect  conditions  in  that  island  somewhat  resemble 
those  in  the  western  United  States.  Taking  the  climate  of  New 
Zealand  as  a  whole,  the  area  in  the  United  States  along  Puget  Sound 
and  the  western  part  of  Oregon  and  Washington  is  probably  some- 
what similar  to  it — a  mild,  equable  climate,  with  a  large  amount  of 
rain,  which  seldom  fails. 

Classes  of  sheep. -^Taking  the  sheep  throughout  the  Dominion, 
Romney  Marshes  and  Corriedales  seem  to  be  the  prevalent  breeds, 
and  it  is  interesting  to  note  that  the  average  of  a  large  number  of  clips, 
classified  according  to  breed,  shows  the  heavier  chp  as  coming  from 
the  crossbreds,  while  the  merino  is  considerably  below  the  general 
average. 

«  The  Tariff  Board  is  under  special  obligations  to  the  Consular  Bureau  of  the  State  Department  for 
valuable  assistance  extended  in  obtaining  the  data  necessary  for  a  review  of  the  New  Zealand  situation* 

501 


502 


SEPOBT  OF  TABIPF  BOABD  ON  SOHliDXJUB  K. 


BEPOBT  OF  TAEIFF  BOABD  ON  8CHEDTTI/B  K. 


503 


miiiiiii 
"I" 


Clmracteristics  of  wool, — The  wools  raised  under  such  favorable 
conditions  are  naturally  of  unusually  fine  texture,  described  as  "soft 
and  sound/'  with  a  good  color.  This  appears  to  be  due  partly  to  good 
breeding  and  partly  to  the  amount  or  green  feed  which  the  sheep 
are  able  to  procure  almost  the  year  round. 

In  the  last  few  years  the  policy  of  the  Government  in  discouraging 
large  holdings  of  land  by  high  taxation  has  tended  to  break  up  the 
flocks  into  much  smaller  numbers,  which  has  been  followed  by  some 
deterioration  in  the  character  of  the  clip.  It  is  stated  that  the  smaller 
o\nier8  do  not  give  the  care  and  attention  to  the  classification  of 
their  wools,  as  well  as  the  breeding,  which  the  larger  owners  formerly 
gave  it,  which  has  a  tendency  to  lower  the  standard  held  for  so 
many  years  by  the  New  Zealand  growers. 

iandf*.— The  land  occupied  in  New  Zealand  for  sheep  grazing  varies 
somewhat  in  character.  In  one  division  many  of  the  ranges  are  in 
the  mountains  at  an  elevation  of  between  1,600  and  4,000  feet,  to 
which  the  animals  are  driven  for  summer  pasturage,  exactly  as 
they  are  in  the  Western  States,  leaving  them  with  the  approach  of  the 
winter  snows. 

New  Zealand  in  many  parts  was  originally  covered  with  a  heavy 

frowth  of  brush  and  trees.  The  early  settlers  soon  discovered  that 
y  clearing  off  this  brush  and  opening  the  soil  up  to  the  sun  splendid 
grasses  could  be  produced  without  much  agricultural  effort.  The 
clearing  of  these  lands  cost  the  owners  from  $5  to  $10  an  acre,  accord- 
ing to  the  amount  of  timber  to  be  removed,  and  when  the  land  was 
once  cleared,  various  grasses,  notably  Kentucky  blue  grass  and 
ItaMan  rye  grass,  were  sown  broadcast,  with  the  result  that  in  a  few 
years  a  heavy  sod  was  obtained.  Such  land,  when  cleared  of  the 
trees  and  brush,  and  with  a  well-established  sod,  is  valued  at  from 
$5  to  $40  per  acre,  depending  upon  its  location,  carrying  capacity, 
and  soil. 

Land  tenures  and  taxation. — Tenures  of  land  in  the  Dominion  are 
very  similar  to  those  prevalent  in  Australia.  The  high  land  taxes 
have  made  the  business  of  sheep  raising  less  profitable  on  what  is 
known  as  "freehold,"  or  owned  lands.  As  in  Austraha,  it  is  univer- 
sally admitted  that  the  man  who  is  grazing  sheep  upon  leased  lands 
is  making  much  more  money  than  where  he  owns  the  land  and  is 
forced  to  pay  the  land  tax. 

No  taxes  are  assessed  on  personal  property  in  New  Zealand,  the 
only  items  upon  which  taxes  are  levied  being  personal  incomes  and 
the  land  minus  its  improvements.  In  taking  the  unimproved  values 
of  the  land  everything  in  the  way  of  improvement  is  eliminated  from 
its  value  and  only  the  bare  land  taxed. 

Upon  all  lands  there  is  an  exemption  amounting  to  £500  below 
whicli  no  taxes  are  assessed,  and  above  which  the  £500  is  first  de- 
ducted; that  is  to  say,  if  a  property  is  worth  £600,  it  is  taxed  but  for 
£100. 

With  lands  the  rate  increases  with  its  value,  beginning  at  Id.  on 
the  pound  and  increasing  to  Is.  6d.  The  increase  upon  lands  owned 
by  absentees  ia  extremely  heavy,  being  double  the  usual  rate  of  taxa- 
tion. This  increase  does  not,  however,  apply  to  corporations,  but 
only  to  individuals.  The  income  tax  is  also  somewhat  similar  in  charac- 
ter, there  being  an  exemption  of  £300  which  is  not  taxed,  the  taxation 
only  being  applied  to  the  amount  above  this  exemption.     The  in- 


1 '' 


come  tax  is  also  based  upon  a  graduated  increase  upon  the  income 
derived,  beginning  at  6d.  on  the  pound  and  rising  to  as  high  as  Is.  2d. 

Taking  the  entire  question  of  taxation,  it  is  evident  from  schedules 
submitted  that  what  is  known  as  rates  and  land  tax,  which  includes 
the  ordinary  assessments  for  fighting  rabbits,  disease,  and  like  costs, 
amounts  to  about  Id.  (2  cents)  per  head  for  each  sheep. 

Based  upon  several  reports,  the  income  tax  amounts  to  between 
2d.  (4  cents)  and  3d.  (6  cents)  per  head  of  sheep,  but  this  is  only  col- 
lected in  the  case  of  very  large  holdings,  a  majority  of  the  owners 
falling  within  the  exemption  of  $1,500;  hence  it  is  safe  to  estimate 
that  the  average  taxes,  including  income  tax,  for  the  entire  Dominion 
will  probably  not  be  more  than  l^d.  (3  cents)  per  head  of  sheep. 

Dipping. — Dipping  is  compulsory  all  over  the  Dominion,  not  only 
to  keep  down  the  scab,  but  also  various  insect  pests  which  afflict  the 
sheep.  The  cost  of  this  dipping  is  about  what  it  is  in  the  United 
States — approximatel^r  3  cents  per  head  for  each  dipping. 

Wool  classes  and  prices. — On  account  of  good  breeding,  succulent 
feed,  sweet  grasses,  and  climatic  characteristics,  the  wools  of  New  Zea- 
land are  higlily  regarded;  sound  and  soft  handling,  with  good  color, 
rather  long  staple,  with  a  freedorn  from  breaks  and  other  imperfec- 
tions due  to  droughts  or  sudden  climatic  changes. 

The  wools  of  New  Zealand  are  of  low  shrinkage,  being  quite  free 
from  sand  and  dirt.  In  recent  yeara  the  production  of  crossbred 
wools  has  increased  remarkably,  until  the  proportion  of  merino  to 
crossbred  is  extremely  low;  for  example,  at  the  auctions  held  in  New 
Zealand  during  the  year  1910,  out  of  over  250,000  bales  of  wool  sold, 
which  was  nearly  one-half  the  entire  clip  for  the  season,  246,000  bales 
were  crossbred  and  7,000  bales  were  straight  merinos. 

New  Zealand  wool,  as  with  AustraUan,  is  packed  in  bales  carrying 
an  average  of  40  fleeces  to  the  bale  and  weighing  approximately  330 
pounds.     This  average,  however,  is  not  always  maintained,  some 

frades  of  the  lighter  wools  running  as  low  as  200  pounds  to  the  bale, 
ut  as  a  general  thing  the  large  majority  of  the  bales  range  between 
320  and  335  pounds. 

The  wools  from  New  Zealand  are  very  carefully  prepared  and 
classed^  and,  as  in  Australia,  sold  under  the  owners'  trade-marks, 
which  in  the  past  they  have  taken  great  pride  in  maintaining  at  a 
high  degree  of  excellence.  It  is  noted,  however,  that  with  the  coming 
of  small  flocks  the  owners  appear  to  be  taking  less  interest  in  the 
proper  classification  of  their  wools,  and  that  wool  trade  journals 
detect  a  slight  falling  off  in  the  grading  and  general  preparation  of  the 
wool  clip  for  market. 

In  selling  the  wool,  the  New  Zealand  growers  seldom  dispose  of 
their  cUp  at  the  woolshed.  In  considering  the  prices  quoted  it  is 
necessary,  therefore,  to  allow  for  the  expense  of  transportmg  the  wool 
from  the  shearing  pens  to  the  seaboard. 

Size  ofjlocTcs. — In  1910  the  average  size  of  all  the  flocks  throughout 
New  Zealand  is  given  as  1,074  head.  This  is  a  considerable  reduction 
from  the  previous  years,  due  to  the  land  policy  now  being  pursued 
by  the  Government,  which  tends  to  break  up  the  large  land  holdings 
and  thus  materially  affect  the  size  of  the  flocks.  However,  there  are 
still  many  large  flocks  in  the  Dominion. 


r||fif 


504 


BEPOBT  OP  TABIFF  BOABD  ON   SCHEDUI^  K. 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


505 


The  following  table  is  taken  from  the  official  reports,  and  shows 
approximately  the  conditions :  Under  1,000  sheep,  number  of  flocks, 
16,608;  between  10,000  and  20,000,  number  of  flocks,  227;  over 
20,000,  number  of  flocks,  78. 

Several  flocks  are  reported  as  exceeding  40,000  each.  It  is  there- 
fore seen  that  while  the  average  size  of  the  flock  is  being  gradually 
reduced  there  are  still  enough  large  holdings  existing  to  furnish  a  basis 
for  excellent  comparative  statements. 

Value  of  flocks. — The  value  of  the  various  flocks  naturally  vary  in 
accordance  with  their  nearness  to  railroads  or  seaports,  the  value  of 
the  land  upon  which  they  are  grazing,  the  length  of  tune  which  the 
leasehold  has  yet  to  run,  and  the  grade  of  the  sheep  themselves.  On 
one  "run"  reported  as  carrying  50,000  sheep  the  owner  values  the 
stock  sheep  at  $2.50  per  head.  Another  large  "  run ''  carrying  28,000 
head,  which  produced  wool  to  the  value  of  $2.15  per  head,  with  an 
average  shearing  of  1 1  pounds,  is  valued  at  $3.60  per  head.  Another 
flock  of  18,000  head  is  taken  at  $2.65  per  head.  The  large  majority  of 
flocks,  however,  are  valued  by  their  owners  at  very  close  to  $5  per 
head,  which  is  undoubtedly  not  far  from  their  true  value. 

The  usual  method  of  estimating  flock  values  in  New  Zealand  is 
similar  to  that  in  Austraha,  where  the  value  of  each  acre  of  land  is 
made  to  include  all  improvements  the  lands  will  use  in  connection 
with  the  sheep  and  the  sheep  themselves. 

DISEASE. 

Sheep  in  New  Zealand  suflPer  from  few  diseases.  In  some  pastures 
where  a  large  number  of  sheep  are  held  without  occasional  transfer  to 
other  pastures  to  rest  the  land,  they  are  troubled  with  internal  para- 
sites and  foot-rot,  together  with  some  lung  trouble.  These  cases, 
however,  are  not  general,  being  all  due  to  overstocked  pastures,  and 
probably  do  not  apply  to  but  a  small  percentage  of  the  total  number  of 
sheep.  Scab  is  somewhat  prevalent,  but  not  a  serious  menace, 
pinping  is  compulsory.  Generally  speaking,  the  losses  from  disease 
in  New  Zealand  are  extremely  low,  probably  not  over  1  per  cent. 

LOSSES   AND  DEPRECIATION. 

In  a  region  without  severe  droughts,  and  with  such  regularity  of 
seasons,  climate,  and  rainfall,  losses  which  affect  the  Australian, 
South  American,  and  American  woolgrowers  are  almost  unknown. 
There  are  some  parts  of  the  Dominion  where  the  sheep  have  been 
caught  in  the  higher  mountains  by  the  heavy  snows,  and  serious  losses 
have  ensued,  amounting  in  one  year  to  over  50  per  cent  of  the  total. 
These  losses,  however,  are  unusual.  There  are  also  occasional  heavy 
losses  through  sudden  changes  in  the  weather  immediately  after 
shearing.  Various  estknates  furnished  by  the  stockmen  and  other 
authorities  place  the  total  losses  from  all  causes  at  between  3  and  5 
per  cent.  This,  however,  is  believed  to  be  rather  higher  than  it  should 
be,  and  it  is  possible  that  it  includes  the  natural  losses  of  the  lambs 
between  the  time  of  birth  and  tlieir  sale,  which  is  excluded  from 
American  estimates.  There  are  also  some  slight  losses  from  poisonous 
weeds  and  plants. 


The  annual  depreciation  on  ewes  based  upon  an  average  valuation 
of  $5  per  head  is  placed  at  12i  per  cent  by  one  authority.  In  a 
country  where  it  is  possible  to  fatten  and  sell  the  aged  ewes  to  such 
good  advantage  as  in  New  Zealand,  it  seems  hardly  possible  that  any 
such  depreciation  charge  could  be  made  an  average  for  the  entire 
Dominion.  The  usual  custom  of  the  owners  is  to  fatten  the  ewes 
rather  early  and  thus  avoid  the  depreciation  loss  which  affects  the 
American  woolgrowers  so  seriously  and  the  Australian  to  a  certain 
degree. 

INCREASE. 

Above  all  other  sheep-growing  regions.  New  Zealand  seems  to  be 
favored  with  a  very  hign  percentage  of  increase  in  her  flocks.  From 
a  large  number  of  holdings,  of  which  the  extremes  were  75  and  111  per 
cent,  40  per  cent  of  the  flocks  showed  an  average  increase  at  weamng 
time  of  between  80  and  90  per  cent.  Forty  per  cent  more  were 
between  90  and  100  per  cent.  Taking  these  figures  as  fairly  repre- 
sentative, it  is  evident  that  the  average  annual  increase  throughout 
the  entire  Dominion  is  not  far  from  90  per  cent.  These  figures  are 
borne  out  by  the  statement  of  sales  of  lambs  from  a  definite  number  of 
ewes,  and  also  f^om  the  reports  of  the  number  of  lamb  carcasses 
slaughtered  at  the  various  freezing  plants.  In  considering  the 
various  breeds  in  connection  with  the  matter  of  increase,  the  merino 
appears  to  have  the  lowest  percentage  of  increase,  while  the  Romney 
Marsh  and  Leicesters  have  the  liighest. 

SALES  OF  SURPLUS  STOCK  AND  MUTTON. 

The  highest  available  authority  on  wool  matters  in  New  Zealand, 
Dalgety's  Ajinual  Wool  Review,  for  1910,  gives  the  number  of  car- 
casses shipped  from  New  Zealand  during  the  year  as  follows: 

Mutton 2,107,782 

Lambs 3,839,992 

Slaughtered  for  local  coiiBumption 2, 350, 000 

Total 8,297,774 

With  a  total  of  24,000,000  sheep  in  round  numbers  in  the  Dominion, 
it  is  evident  that  the  "cast"  or  surplus  stock  from  New  Zealand 
amounts  to  about  33§  per  cent  of  the  total.  From  all  available  data 
this  cast  appears  to  be  the  highest  of  any  of  the  large  sheep-raising 
countries. 

As  regards  the  prices  received  for  fat  sheep,  a  large  number  of  sales 
are  reported  at  an  average  of  $4  per  head,  while  other  sales  of  lambs 
in  large  numbers  report  an  average  price  received  of  $3.10  per  head. 
The  nearness  of  the  ranges  upon  which  the  animals  are  fattened  to 
the  freezing  works  and  reread  shipping  points  admits  of  an  easy  and 
rapid  hancSiug  of  the  fat  stock,  with  httle  loss  of  flesh  enroute,  which 
accounts  in  a  large  part  for  the  excellent  prices  received  and  the 
extraordinary  high  "cast.*' 

CARRYING  CAPACITY  OP  THE  LANDS. 

With  a  total  area  of  66,000,000  acres  in  the  Dominion,  carrying 
24,000,000  sheep,  as  well  as  over  2,000,000  cattle,  horses,  and  other 
animals,  it  is  unnecessary  to  call  attention  to  the  fact  that  these  lands 
are  of  an  extremely  high  carrying  capacity.    If  there  was  no  other 


I 


506 


BEPORT  OF  TABTPF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


EEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


507 


stock  whatever  in  the  Dominion  excepting  the  sheep  it  would  be 
over  one  animal  to  eveiy  3  acres.  Millions  of  acres  are  reported  aa 
carrying  a  sheep  to  every  2  acres,  and  many  other  lai^e  tracts  are 
reported  as  carrying  two  sheep  to  1  acre,  lliis  is  more  interesting 
when  we  compare  it  with  conditions  in  the  United  States.  The  total 
area  of  the  State  of  Arizona  is  72,000,000  acres,  and  the  number  of 
sheep  in  New  Zealand  is  approximately  one-half  of  the  total  number 
in  the  United  States,  and  still  the  New  Zealand  sheep  are  raised  and 
fattened  on  an  area  considerabljr  smaller  than  the  State  of  Arizona. 
The  average  for  the  entire  Dominion  is  probably  not  far  from  one  sheep 
to  every  IJ  acres. 

The  grasses  on  the  open  ranges  consist  of  the  Tussock  grass,  which 
is  a  native,  Kentucky  blue  grass,  Italian  rye,  cocksfoot,  ana  white 
and  red  clovers,  wliich  have  been  sown  on  the  ground  bj  the  owners. 
The  usual  process  is  to  bum  off  the  brush  and  other  covering,  plow 
up  the  lands,  and  sow  the  grass  seeds,  which  results  in  a  very  quick 
sod  production,  forming  most  excellent  pastures.  Many  of  the  native 
ranges  where  the  Tussock  grass  preyaus  have  been  severely  iniured 
through  overstocking  and  fires,  which  sweep  across  them,  ana  the 
Government  is  now  taking  steps  to  revegetate  these  lands  by  artifi- 
cial means. 

MAINTENANCE. 

While  some  quantities  of  succulent  and  other  ordinary  feeds  are 
grown  for  feeding  the  sheep,  the  majority  of  owners  depend  entirely 
upon  their  pastures  for  not  only  raismg  but  fattening  the  animals  for 
market. 

The  principal  green  feeds  grown  are  rape,  turnips,  and  similar 
crops,  but  it  is  very  common  to  find  large  areas  upon  which  a  ewe  and 
her  lamb  are  raised  and  fattened  for  market  on  the  natural  grasses 
themselves,  without  any  additional  feed  being  furnished.  On  large 
runs  using  land  valued  at  $35  per  acre  with  improvements  and  carry- 
ing two  sheep  to  the  acre,  the  cost  of  maintenance  works  out  at  87J 
cents  per  sheep  per  annum.  On  several  large  runs  carrying  as  high 
as  20,000  sheep  each,  the  land  being  valued  at  from  $5  to  $10  per  acre, 
the  average  annual  cost  of  maintenance  figures  out  at  25  cents  per 
head.     Tms  is  doubtless  very  close  to  the  general  average. 

IMPROVEMENTS. 

As  in  AustraKa,  the  improvements  placed  upon  the  lands,  where 
they  are  held  either  through  ownership  or  long  leases,  thus  giving 
some  permanent  occupation  of  the  land,  are  generally  of  a  very  sub- 
stantial and  rather  expensive  form.  On  the  average  range  they 
consist  of  fencing  which  costs  from  $150  to  $400  per  mile,  depending 
on  the  manner  of  erection  and  cost  of  materials;  dipping  plants 
valued  at  from  $300  to  $1,000;  expensive  wool  presses  costmg  from 
$100  to  $300;  large  platform  scales,  $75  to  $100;  shearing  machines 
costing  all  the  way  from  $75  each  to  over  $1,500  for  the  plant ;  stables 
and  other  outhouses;  dwellings  for  the  men  and  managers.  All 
these  improvements  are  usually  built  substantially  and  with  a  view 
to  making  them  as  nearly  permanent  as  is  possible.  The  reports  show 
that  the  houses  furnished  for  the  shearers  and  other  men^  which  must 
be  built  under  the  regulations  of  the  board  of  arbitration,  so  as  to 


' 


meet  the  necessary  sanitary  and  li^ht  allowances,  average  $1,000  each. 
In  figuring  the  depreciation  on  buildings  and  equipment  of  this  class, 
the  larger  companies  and  owners  base  it  on  a  valuation  which  equals 
about  8  per  cent.  When  one  considers  the  thoroughness  of  construc- 
tion, it  does  not  seem  possible  that  a  high  depreciation  charge  is 
necessary  to  cover  the  wear  and  tear  on  such  improvements.  Taking 
the  improvements  throughout  the  dominion,  and  estimating  from  a 
large  number  of  reports,  it  is  found  that  the  total  amount  of  money 
invested  in  such  improvements  is  about  equal  to  $1  for  each  head 
of  sheep. 

FENCING. 

Practically  aU  sheep  in  New  Zealand  are  managed  under  the  pad- 
dock or  fencing  system.  The  fences  are  constructed  along  practically 
the  same  lines  as  those  in  Australia,  many  of  them  being  buUt  to  pre- 
vent the  passing  of  rabbits,  and  cost,  on  an  average,  between  $150  and 
$400  per  mile,  with  about  the  same  low  cost  for  repairs,  1  shilling  (25 
cents)  per  mile,  as  is  noted  in  Australian  reports. 

LABOR. 

The  .scarcity  of  labor  in  New  Zealand  is  very  marked  and  the 
demand,  especially  for  sheep  hands,  generally  exceeds  the  supply. 
The  Maori,  or  natives,  form  a  large  part  of  the  labor,  most  or  the 
shearers  being  of  this  class.  The  labor  cost  is  approximately  1  shilling 
(or  25  cents)  per  head  of  sheep,  exclusive  of  the  shearing  cost. 

As  in  Australia,  the  labor  organizations  control  the  wages  paid  in 
all  branches  of  labor,  but  more  especially  that  connected  with  the 
handling  of  sheep;  and,  broadly  speaking,  the  wages  paid  in  New 
Zealand  are  on  the  same  basis  as  those  in  Australia.  Shearers  are  paid 
at  the  rate  of  20  shillings  ($5)  per  hundred  head,  with  board,  either  for 
machine  or  hand  shearmg;  shed  hands,  27s.  6d.  ($6.87)  per  week,  with 
board;  ordinary  station  laborers,  from  $5  to  $7  per  week,  with  board; 
sheep  herders,  $300  to  $400  per  year,  with  board;  pressers  and  rollers, 
£1  lOd.  ($7.50)  per  week,  with  board;  cooks,  $8.75  per  week^  with 
board.  Wherever  any  of  this  class  of  labor  wishes  to  furnish  their  own 
board  the  employer  is  required  to  make  an  allowance  equal  to  $3.75 
per  week  to  cover  it. 

PROVISIONS. 

The  same  conditions  prevail  as  in  Australia,  the  board  of  arbitra- 
tion establishing  the  value  of  the  rations,  where  workers  prefer  to 
furnish  their  own  food,  at  15s.  ($3.75)  per  week.  Considermg  that, 
in  addition  to  this  food  cost,  it  is  usually  estimated  that  the  lights, 
fuel,  and  cost  of  housing  is  equal  to  $1  per  man  per  week,  it  is  readily 
seen  that  the  total  cost  of  provisions,  light,  and  fuel  is  somewhere 
around  $18  per  month. 

COST  OF  PRODUCTION. 

Upon  the  net  charge  against  a  pound  of  New  Zealand  wool  there 
seems  to  be  some  very  definite  figures.  The  tremendous  increase  in 
their  young  stock,  the  ability  to  fatten  their  old  ewes  and  sell  at 
good  prices,  the  high  carrying  capacity  of  their  lands,  and  other 


508 


BEPORT  OF  TABIFF  BOAKD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


EEPOET  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


509 


O 


favorable  conditions  all  tend  to  reduce  the  cost  of  production.  This, 
together  with  very  high  average  prices  for  both  their  wool  and  mutton 
output,  a  high  average  shearmg,  a  moderate  amount  of  investment 
in  improvements,  etc.,  makes  it  appear  as  if  the  mutton  output  from 
any  given  flock  in  New  Zealand  must  cover  almost  the  entire  cost  of 
production,  leaving  the  wool  practically  free  of  all  charges,  or  not  to 
exceed  a  few  cents  at  the  extreme. 

HAULAGE   AND  FREIGHT. 

The  two  islands  constituting  the  main  portion  of  the  dominion  of 
New  Zealand  being  extremely  long  and  very  narrow,  it  naturally 
follows  that  with  any  fair  system  of  transportation  no  flock  can  be 
very  far  away  from  a  railroad  or  water  shippmg  point.  Competent 
authorities  state  that  the  average  railroad  haul  does  not  exceed  60 
miles  for  the  entire  dominion.  No  haul  is  reported  of  over  150  miles. 
The  owners  haul  wool  from  their  shearing  pens  to  railroads  with  their 
own  teams  and  men  and,  as  few  instances  are  reported  where  this 
haul  is  more  than  10  miles,  it  is  evident  that  the  cost  of  getting  the 
wool  from  the  shearing  pens  to  railroad  shipping  points  must  be 
extremely  low. 

The  rate  of  freightj  as  reported  by  several  authorities,  makes  an 
average  for  the  60  miles  of  from  5  to  8  shillings  per  bale,  or  about 
$1.62.  The  ocean  freight  from  the  seaports  of  New  Zealand  to  Lon- 
don is  reported  as  averaging  $3  per  bale. 

MISCELLANEOUS    ITEMS. 

Under  the  head  of  miscellaneous  items  of  expense,  we  find  the 
flock  owners  of  New  Zealand  returning  many  expenses  which  are 
found  in  all  reports  from  the  various  sheep-raising  countries.  Dip- 
ping costs  approximately  3  cents  per  head,  which  is  the  same  as  it  is 
throughout  the  western  part  of  the  United  States.  The  vats  are  gen- 
erally of  superior  construction,  and  are  all  built  and  maintained  by 
the  owners  of  the  land  at  a  cost  of  from  $300  to  $1,000.  Rabbits 
require  considerable  fighting,  for  which  a  tax  is  assessed  against  the 
lands  by  the  various  State  governments,  as  well  as  requiring  miles  of 
wire  netting  to  keep  them  out.  Commissions  on  wool  sales  are  usu- 
ally reported,  the  majority  of  the  wool  being  sold  through  commission 
brokers  in  the  several  large  seaports.  All  estimates  furnished  as  to 
the  cost  of  operations  invariably  include  interest  on  capital  invested 
at  the  rate  of  5  per  cent,  which  is  approximately  the  same  as  charged 
in  South  Africa,  South  America,  and  Australia,  as  against  about 
8  per  cent  in  the  United  States.  No  definite  cost  of  the  value  of  rams 
used  in  the  various  flocks  is  given.  A  large  number  of  high-grade 
stud  rams  are  sold  to  the  flockmasters  each  year  at  a  price  averaging 
close  to  $75  per  head.  The  usual  method  of  allowing  for  ram  costs 
in  New  Zealand  seems  to  be  based  on  a  certain  charge  per  head 
against  every  ewe  in  the  band.  This  estimate  seems  to  be  generally 
accepted  at  about  6d.  (12  cents)  per  head  for  each  ewe.  They  gener- 
ally allow  one  ram  for  each  50  ewes.  This  would  be  a  valuation  of 
somewhere  around  $15  per  head,  assuming  that  the  period  of  use  of  the 
ram  does  not  extend  over  three  years. 


PROFITS. 

While  showing  such  large  increase  and  comparatively  low  operating 
expenses,  together  with  large  shearing  averages,  and  the  high  price 
received  for  the  wool  and  mutton,  few  New  Zealand  authorities  agree 
to  a  higher  percentage  of  profit  on  capital  invested  than  10  per  cent. 
This  is  invariably  based  upon  a  schedTule  of  expenses  in  which  is  pre- 
viously charged  as  a  part  of  the  expense  5  per  cent  interest,  making 
a  total  interest  on  the  investment  of  approximately  15  per  cent.  It 
is  beheved,  however,  that  the  actual  facts  would  show  a  much  higher 
profit  on  capital  invested  than  even  15  per  cent.  This  would  apply 
to  properties  where  the  owners  managea  it  themselves,  did  not  own 
the  land  but  were  leasing  it  at  fair  rates,  and  devoted  themselves  to 
making  their  property  pay  every  possible  cent  profit  that  could  be 
obtained  from  it.  Under  such  circumstances  it  would  appear  that 
the  profits  must  be  higher  than  given  by  the  few  authorities  who  have 
ventured  to  express  an  opinion  upon  this  subject. 

FUTURE   OF   INDUSTRY. 

A  study  of  conditions  throughout  the  dominion  indicates  very 
clearly  that  there  is  no  great  amount  of  unoccupied  land  suitable  for 
sheep  grazing  in  that  countrj. 

Practically  all  the  land  which  can  be  used  for  grazing  is  now  stocked. 
The  closer  settlement  of  certain  areas  may  result  in  improving  the 
carrying  capacity  until  it  will  possibly  furnish  grazing  or  forage  for  a 
larger  number  of  sheep  than  it  now  carries.  But  this  is  not  the  result 
of  such  movements,  for  wherever  the  plow  goes  the  number  of  sheep 
gradually  decreases  from  causes  well  understood  by  students  of  the 

matter. 

The  breaking  up  of  the  large  holdings  has  already  lowered  and  will 
doubtless  in  the  future  continue  to  reduce  the  high  standard  of  New 
Zealand  wools,  which  have  for  years  stood  in  a  class  by  themselves 
for  certain  grades. 

With  the  natural  growth  of  the  country  the  home  consumption  of 
both  wool  and  mutton  will  doubtless  reduce  to  a  certain  extent  the 
surplus  now  shipped  oversea,  while  the  growing  value  of  lands  suitable 
for  sheep  raising  will  add  somewhat  to  the  cost  of  production.  It  is 
not  probable,  therefore,  that  in  the  near  future  there  will  be  any  great 
change  in  the  number  of  sheep  in  New  Zealand  or  that  the  wool  or 
mutton  production  will  increase  to  any  extent. 

SHEEP  IN  SOUTH  AFRICA. 

South  Africa  is  a  region  long  settled,  but  recently  beginning  to  send 
to  the  markets  of  the  worid  notable  amounts  of  merino  and  crossbred 
wool.  When  first  colonized  there  were  found  native  races  of  Afri- 
kander and  fat-tailed  sheep  without  wool.  Crosses  of  these  woolless 
sheep  are  called  bastard  sheep. 

In  1654  sheep  were  imported  from  Europe.  In  1680  came  Spanish 
merino  rams.  In  1716  a  successful  shipment  of  wool  was  made.  In 
1775  numbers  of  Spanish  merinos  were  imported.  Thus  merino  sheep 
were  introduced  to  South  Africa  nearly  150  years  before  their  intro- 
duction to  Australia.  It  is  evident  that  there  is  some  physical  bar  to 
their  ready  acceptance  and  occupation  in  Africa. 


510 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDtJM!  K. 


BEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDUI/E  K 


511 


'||ll 

iM 


The  sheep  seen  are  often  of  Afrikander  breed  or  of  Persian  or 
^^bastard''  croesbreds.  The  Afrikanders  are  kept  for  their  flesh:  the 
Persians  also  yield  early  lambs,  quickly  fattened,  and  a  coarse,  hairy 
wool.  Merinos  and  crosses  between  these  sheep  and  merinos  are  also 
kept.  English  breeds,  though  considerably  imported,  have  not  yet 
made  much  impression  in  South  Africa,  and  it  may  be  that  the  ch- 
mates  are  not  suitable  for  their  successful  introduction. 

I^fkZ*.— South  Africa  consists  of  coast  lands,  tropical  in  their  char- 
acter and  unfit,  for  the  most  part,  for  sheep,  with  high  interior  pla- 
teaus, 3,000  to  6,000  feet,  well  grassed,  but  with  grasses  usually  coarser 
than  sheep  relish  or  thrive  upon. 

Contrasting  Africa  with  Australia,  in  South  Africa  the  rains  come 
for  the  most  part  m  summer,  with  little  rainfall  in  winter.  In  Aus- 
traha  rains  may  come  at  any  season.  The  winters  on  the  high 
plateaus  are  also  colder  than  are  seen  in  much  of  Australia.  In 
South  Afnca — Natal,  for  instance — some  winter  feeding  must  be 
done. 

In  Australia  but  7  per  cent  of  the  land  is  owned  by  private  owners. 
In  South  African  States  97  per  cent  of  the  land  is  so  owned.  The 
land  m  ^uth  Africa  is  not  owned  in  so  large  tracts  as  are  lease- 
holds and  estates  in  Australia.  Some  Dutch  farms  embrace  as 
lugh  as  6,500  acres.  It  is  usuaUy  unfenced  and  consists  of  wild 
native  masses,  with  a  few  maize  fields  scattered  over  it.  Native 
negro  labor  herds  the  sheep  and  cattle,  corralling  them  at  night  to 
keep  them  from  wild  animals  and  from  destroying  the  crops. 

In  the  Orange  Free  State  the  rental  value  of  lands  is  from  18  to  60 
cents     per  morgen,''  an  area  of  approximately  2^  acres,  equal  to 

•  *-?«i^  ^®^*^  P®*^  ,^^^*  ^^  ^^^^  *^®  average  value  of  land  reported 
IS  19.73  per  acre,  but  much  of  this  is  rather  high-grade  farmmg  land, 
iiands  suitable  for  grazmg  and  small  farming  are  offered  for  sale  by 

T  T>u  j®^?™!^^  **  ^^^^  ^^  ^^  ^^  shillings  per  acre  ($6.25  to  $10). 
In  Khodesia  the  size  of  farms  reported  is  from  200  to  6,000  acres,  the 
pnce  from  60  cents  to  $4.86  an  acre.  Much  of  this  latter  is  high- 
grade  farming  land,  near  the  railroads. 

Cape  Promnce. — Land  values  reported  from  24  cents  per  acre  for 
the  very  lowest  grade  of  grazing  land  to  $19.46  for  the  highest  class 
of  farming  land.  Rentals  of  Cape  lands  vary  in  proportion  to  the 
value  of  tne  lands. 

In  the  Transvaal  (a  tract  of  5,600  acres),  marked  "good  grazing, 
weU  timbered,  not  much  surface  water"  is  offered  for  sale  or  lease  by 
the  Government  at  the  following  terms:  Selling  price,  63  cents  per 
acre,  20  years'  time  allowed;  leasing  price,  5-years^  lease:  7  cents  per 

^^\r^A7^^  ^  ^®*^'  ^^  ^^^  ^^^^  ^^^^'  I^  ^os*  of  the  States  of  the 
bouth  Aincan  Union  the  maximum  acreage  any  one  person  can 
lease  or  buy  is  now  2,000  acres. 

The  present  Government  is  doing  much  to  encourage  an  advanced 
agriculture  and  an  improved  form  of  stock  breeding  in  South  Africa. 
Ihis  effort  is  opposed  by  a  part  of  the  farming  classes  and  welcomed 
by  another  part. 

The  various  diseases  of  animals  in  South  Africa  are  the  worsi 
barriers  to  improvement.  Several  forms  of  ticks  convey  contagion 
to  cattle.    Sheep  are  aflaicted  with  bluetongue,  stomach  worms,  and 


in  some  parts  with  other  diseases  difficult  to  combat.  Especially  on 
the  lower  lying  lands  is  it  difl&cult  to  grow  sheep,  or  even  to  grow 
cattle.  Along  the  coast  region  are  many  stock  diseases.  This  con- 
dition becomes  worse  as  one  proceeds  north.  There  are  regions,  also, 
where  only  the  native  wooUess  sheep  thrive,  and  improved  breeds  will 
hardly  exist.  It  would  seem  that  sheep  will  not  extend  into  the 
north  except  on  the  highest  plateaus.  Fencing  will  no  doubt  greatly 
aid  the  fight  against  disease  since  it  will  put  a  stop  to  its  spread,  and 
enable  each  man  to  clean  his  own  particular  land  and  flock.  Fencing 
is  now  being  undertaken  but  is  difficult  because  of  the  treeless  condi- 
tion of  the  country.     The  farmers  now  use  stone  for  posts. 

Maize  growing  is  an  important  industry  in  pauch  of  South  Africa. 
The  exports  of  African  maize  are  rapidly  increasing  in  volume. 
American  varieties  of  maize  thrive  there,  and  American  methods  of 
cultivation  are  being  taught  the  farmers.  It  is  doubtful  if  a  great 
sheep-growing  industry  can  be  built  up  in  any  region  adapted  to  the 
growing  of  maize.  The  reason  is  that  witn  a  climate  suitable  to 
maize  growing  there  is  a  rapid  development  of  dangerous  internal 
parasites  that  afflict  sheep.  This  fact  has  important  bearing  on  the 
probable  future  of  the  sheep  industry  in  Soutn  Africa. 

While  Africa  has  many  native  sheep  that  produce  little  or  no 
wool,  yet  they  are  a  source  of  considerable  profit  because  the  wool- 
less  types  thrive  and  fatten  readily  and  mutton  is  there  commanding 
a  gooa  price.  In  1910  Persian  lambs  5  months  old  sold  fat  for  $4 
each,  and  ewes  fat  for  $4.50. 

Labor. — ^There  are  now  in  United  South  Africa  many  more  negroes 
than  whites,  and  practically  all  the  labor  is  done  by  negroes.  The 
quahty  of  this  labor  varies;  there  are  shepherds  classed  as  ^^very 
good  and  more  who  ''need  to  be  watched  like  children."  There 
is  very  little  immigration  to  South  Africa  because  the  land  is  so 
nearly  all  taken  and  because  white  labor  can  not  compete  with  black. 

Wages  in  South  Africa  for  blacks  on  farms  are  very  low.  In  the 
Transvaal,  for  labor  and  food,  per  man,  about  $120  per  year.  For 
shearing,  per  hundred  sheep,  the  rates  are  from  $1.25  to  $2.50.  In 
Natal  the  wages  paid  to  adult  negro  laborers  in  about  $4.87  per 
month,  with  food. 

In  the  Cape  Colony  wages  for  Kaffirs  range  from  $2.43  to  $7.30 
per  month,  with  food,  and  sometimes  an  entire  family  is  employed, 
when  the  wages  will  be  about  $5  per  month.  Just  how  efficient 
tliis  labor  is  in  comparison  with  labor  in  the  United  States  we  have 
no  means  of  exactly  stating.  All  reports  estimate  that  it  is  not  more 
than  half  as  effective,  man  for  man.  White  labor  in  the  Cape  Colony 
is  paid  from  $14.60  to  $24.30  per  month,  with  board.  The  white 
labor  is  employed  for  the  higher  classes  of  labor,  such  as  overseers 
and  shearers.     The  Kaffirs  are  almost  the  only  class  of  herders  used. 

In  the  Orange  Free  State  negro  herders  are  paid  at  the  rate  of 
between  $2.50  and  $3.75  per  month,  with  board;  ordinary  labor  about 
the  farms,  $5  per  month,  and  board. 

In  Rhodesia  native  herders  are  paid  an  average  of  $1.21  per  month, 
with  board. 

Farm  laborers  who  shear  receive  from  $9.73  to  $24.33  per  month. 


li I 


512 


REPOBT  OP  TABIFF  BOAED  ON   SCHEDUI-E  K. 

Summary  of  Mhjt, 


Cape  Province 

Transvaal 

Natal 

Orange  Free  State 

Rhodesia 


Native  herd- 
ers and  la- 
borers (per 
month,  witL 
board). 


12.43-17.30 
10.00 

2.50-3.75 
1.21 


Farm  labor. 


Native. 


S4.87 
5.00 


White. 


S14.60-$24.30 


NUMBEB   OF  SHEEP. 

The  present  tendency  of  the  industry  is  to  increase  slowly,  since  in 
the  north  it  has  not  been  proven  that  merino  or,  in  fact,  any  sort  of 
wooled  sheep  will  thrive;  and  along  the  coast  lands  no  sheep  thrive 
except  in  the  south.  At  the  present  time  the  movement  to  better 
the  breeding  of  such  flocks  as  they  have  is  strong.  Effort  is  being 
made  to  clean  the  land  of  scab  and  on  December  31,  1910  there 
were  2,866  flocks  ordered  to  be  dipped  for  scab. 

The  distribution  of  sheep  in  Soutli  Africa  is  as  follows  (1910): 


Cape 

Orange  Free  State,  1909. 
Transvaal,  1910 

Natal,  1909 


Woded. 


12,500,000 
6,059,813 
2,019,614 

U, 068, 996 


Bastard. 


6,500,000 

1,561,249 

827,464 


1  Wooled  and  bastard. 


Size  ofjloclcs, — Statistics  relative  to  the  size  of  the  South  African 
flocks  are  not  obtainable  for  all  the  States. 

Of  the  total  of  approximately  30,000,000  sheep  in  the  union 
19,026,884  are  in  the  Cape  Province.  An  oflScial  report  covering  the 
sheep  in  this  Province  on  January  1,  1911,  shows  that  there  are 
117,646  separate  flocks  with  an  average  of  161  to  each  flock.  The 
lamb  crop  for  1910  for  these  sheep  amounted  to  4,840,709,  or  an 
average  of  41  to  the  flock,  an  approxmaate  25  per  cent  lamb  crop. 

Chardder  of  African  wools, — Tlie  Persian  sheep  have  a  coarse,  hairy 
wool,  used  as  a  carpet  wool.  Crossed  with  menno  tliis  makes  a  good 
crossbred  wool,  especially  the  second  cross  with  merino  rams. 

Kambouillets  in  South  Africa  seem  to  thrive  and  retain  their 
excellence  of  form,  but  it  is  stated  that  their  wools  do  not  hold  their 
character  there.  Australian  merinos  change  character,  also,  though 
their  wools  are  said  to  be  delightfully  soft,  fine  texture,  suitable  for 
worsteds.  There  is  tendency  of  Afncan  wools  to  become  short  in 
fiber. 

The  major  part  of  the  South  African  wools  are  sent  to  Germany, 
France,  and  England. 

Prices  of  wools. — The  prices  received  by  the  growers  range  from 
9  cents  to  15  cents  per  pound.  There  is  some  wool  good  enough  to 
bring  18  cents  per  pound.     This  would  often  be  crossbred  wool. 

Natal  produces  wool  of  superior  character,  quite  largely  influenced 
by  importations  of  American  Rambouillet  and  Vermont  merino  rams. 
Here  wools  have  sold  as  high  as  24  cents  to  27  cents  per  pound.  All 
wool  is  sold  unwashed. 


EEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD   ON   SCHEDULE  K. 

Table  of  wool  prices. 


513 


Unscoured. 


Aver- 
ages for 
year 
1910. 


Natal 

Rhodesia 

Orange  Free  State 

CapeProvince 


Per  pound 

do 

do 


Cents. 

15 

12-15 

12-15 

13-16 


Diseases.—Scoh  is  prevalent  all  over  South  Africa,  together  with 
other  troubles  due  to  intestinal  worms.  At  the  present  time  the 
Government  is  making  a  strong  effort  to  stamp  out  scab  through 
wholesale  dippings,  which  is  meeting  with  a  great  degree  of  success. 
Losses  from  disease  and  drought  in  the  Cape  Province  amounted  to 
1,297,496  head  in  the  year  1910,  or  about  6  per  cent. 

Droughts. — The  climate  varies  somewhat,  but  as  a  rule  it  is  somewhat 
similar  in  character  to  the  American  Southwest,  with  periods  of  great 
heat  and  drought  followed  b}^  seasons  of  fine  rains  and  excellent  feed. 

Predatory  animals.— The  jackal  seems  to  take  the  place  of  the 
American  coyote  among  the  sheep  owners  of  South  Africa.  Some 
fencing  is  done  to  protect  the  sheep  from  their  inroads,  but  for  the 
most  part  the  herders  are  presumed  to  protect  the  sheep  from  attack 

as  in  the  United  States.  ,     .  *  .  ,...  •. 

Miscellaneous  costs.— A  study  of  South  African  conditions  shows 
that  the  miscellaneous  cost  under  which  the  sheep  grower  m  that 
region  operates  are  much  the  same  as  in  the  United  States. 

Dipping  for  scab,  fighting  predatory  animals,  taxes  on  his  lands 
(there  is  no  tax  on  the  sheep  themselves),  shearing  expenses,  haulage 
of  wool  from  shearing  pens  to  shipping  points,  feed  to  bucks  m  cer- 
tain seasons,  the  upkeep  of  wells  and  dams  for  furmshmg  water  to 
the  flocks,  repairs  upon  improvements,  fences,  and  wagons,  are  all 
found  in  the  reports  of  operating  costs  from  that  country,  and  in 
general  they  vary  but  little  from  the  same  costs  m  America.  What 
variance  there  is,  is  due  to  the  lower  cost  of  the  labor  used  by  South 

African  owners.  -.    ,      i      j         j   u      ^i. 

Maintenance.— The  carrying  capacity  of  the  land  used  by  the 
South  African  sheep  owner  is  of  much  inferior  grazing  capacity  to 
that  used  by  the  AustraUan  grower.  It  may  be  compared  to  that 
used  by  the  Wyoming  sheep  owners  outside  of  the  summer  ranges,  m 
the  mountains. 

No  winter  or  other  feeding  of  the  flocks  beyond  the  feed  for  rams 
at  some  parts  of  the  year  is  reported  excepting  in  the  Province  of 
Natal  where  occasionally  some  feeding  of  rough  stuffs  is  done  during 

the  winter.  *        •  x 

Taking  the  South  African  region  as  a  whole  the  cost  of  mainte- 
nance for  one  sheep  for  a  year  is  approximately  35  cents,  slightly  above 
the  cost  for  AustraUa,  but  below  that  of  western  United  States. 

Shearing.— In  Orange  Free  State  the  cost  of  shearmg  is  given  at 
from  1  i  cents  to  1  i  cents  per  head  with  board.  In  the  Cape  Province 
2J  cents  per  head  with  board.  The  average  wages  paid  to  the  labor 
required  about  the  shearing  pens,  mostly  native,  is  2  shillings  (50  cents) 
per  day  with  board.    Graders  are  now  being  employed  in  some  sheep- 


32080°— H.  Doc.  342,  62-2,  vol  1- 


^ 


514 


BEPORT  OP  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDUOI   K. 


shearing  pens  at  wages  from  $25  to  140  per  month  and  board.  The 
average  cost  of  board  per  day  for  this  kind  of  labor  is  stated  to  be  1 
shilling  (25  cents). 

Taking  into  account  all  necessary  labor  and  the  board,  together 
with  the  necessary  wool  sacks,  the  average  shearing  cost  per  head  for 
South  Africa  does  not  exceed  5  cents. 

Provisions. — As  stated  above,  the  average  cost  of  food  for  the  ordi- 
nary native  labor  employed  about  sheep  farms  and  shearing  pens 
does  not  exceed  25  cents  per  day.  The  food  furnished  Kaffir  herders 
and  their  families  consists  of  2  bushels  of  corn  meal,  2  old  ewes,  and 
4  pounds  of  sugar  per  month — a  cost  probably  not  exceeding  10 
cents  per  day. 

Sale  of  surplus  stock  and  mutton. — In  the  Cape  Province  fat  ewes 
are  reported  as  selling  for  $4.50  per  head  'and  fat  lambs  5  months  old 
at  $4.  Old  ewes  are  readilv  sold  for  local  slaughter  at  from  $2.50  to 
$3  per  head,  according  to  their  flesh. 

At  the  present  time  the  demand  for  mutton  is  so  strong  that  there 
is  a  gooa  profit  in  breeding  the  woolless  sheep  for  mutton  alone. 
Wliere  the  sheep  combine  both  wool  and  mutton  the  profits  must 
naturally  be  much  greater. 

Cost  of  production. — The  average  shearing  per  head  is  estimated  at 
6  pouncfs,  with  an  average  price  received  by  the  growers  of  13i  cents 
per  pound. 

With  an  average  valuation  on  breeding  sheep  of  $2.50  per  head  and 
an  investment,  excluding  lands  in  improvements  and  equipment  per 
head  of  not  over  40  cents  per  year,  and  taking  into  account  the  low 
cost  of  wages  and  provisions,  the  moderate  leasing  values  of  their 
grazing  lands,  the  inild  winters  which  do  not  demand  other  food  for 
the  ammals  than  that  found  on  the  ranges,  the  strong  demand  for 
mutton  of  all  classes,  it  is  evident  that  the  African  woolgrower  is  able 
to  meet  all  his  expenses  from  the  sale  of  his  surplus  stock  and  mutton, 
leaving  the  wool  as  a  clear  profit  on  his  mvestment. 

One  flock  owner  in  Rhodesia  reports  he  can  sell  his  wool  at  12  cents 
per  pound  and  make  money. 

Capital  invested.— "The  value  of  breeding  ewes  in  large  bands  is 
reported  to  average  $2.50  for  ordinary  young  ewes;  crossbreds  and 
grades  of  the  woolless  breeds  are  quoted  at  from  $1  to  $1.50  per  head. 

The  necessary  investment  for  equipment  and  improvements  upon 
a  leased  range  capable  of  supporting  6,000  sheep  is  reported  as  follows: 
Horses  and  other  domestic  animals  required  for  handling  sheep,  $150 
to  $300;  fencing,  houses,  sheds,  corrals,  wells,  dams,  pumps,  and 
other  equipment,  $2,000;  fencing  costs  between  $200  and  $250  per 
mile. 

This  makes  ap  average  investment  for  such  purposes  of  approx- 
imately 40  cents  per  head.  Ten  head  of  horses  are  required  to  care 
for  these  sheep.     One  herder  for  each  600  head  of  sheep. 

Conclusion.-^Souih.  Africa  is  a  region  containing  much  land  adapted 
to  sheep  farming.  This  land  seems  to  be  nearly  all  occupied  at  the 
present  time,  but  not  fully  stocked.  There  is  a  probabihty  of  some 
expansion  in  Rhodesia,  though  in  the  north  merinos  have  railed  and 
woolless  sheep  seem  best  adapted  to  the  climate  and  soil. 

The  sheep  farmer  of  Soutn  Africa  has  often  to  combat  disease, 
coarse  grasses,  wild  beasts,  and  ignorant,  unskilled  labor.    He  has  the 


BEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


515 


cooperation  of  his  government,  but  not  always  of  his  backward 

He  is  importing  merinos  from  America,  Europe,  and  Australia,  and 
is  beginning  to  carry  on  a  far  better  system  of  slieep  breeding.  Both 
amount  and  quality  of  African  wools  will  be  increased.  The  tendency 
is  toward  greater  output  of  merino  wools. 

Of  labor  the  South  African  woolgrower  has  plenty  at  cheap  rates, 
but  of  low  value  compared  with  labor  elsewhere. 

Land  values  and  rentals  are  somewhat  higher  than  in  Australia,  but 
lower  than  in  America. 

CHmatic  conditions  fairly  favorable  compared  with  AustraHa,  but 
better  than  in  America.  Losses  from  disease  and  predatory  ammals 
with  cost  of  fighting  them  about  the  same  in  South  Africa  as  the 
United  States,  but  generally  much  less  than  in  Australia. 

Prices  for  wool  for  year  1910,  from  12  to  16  cents;  rates  of  interest, 
6  per  cent  to  6  per  cent — about  the  same  aa  in  AustraHa,  but  lower 
than  in  the  western  United  States. 


PART  IL  RAW  WOOLS -ADDENDA. 


NOTES  ON  WOOL-GKOWING  IN  SOUTH  AMERICA. 


517 


w 


A  PATAGONIAN   ESTANCIA  HOUSE. 


CROSSBRED   ROMNEY  SHEEP  IN   SOUTH   AMERICA. 


GEHEEAL  CONDITIONS  IN  SOTJTH  AMERICA. 

Second  only  in  importance  to  Australasia  in  the  Production  of 
sheeTrndVool  in  competition  in  the  United  States  i^arket  South 
AScTprrents  conditions  differing  matenally  f rom  those  prevaU- 
b^  on  the  other  continents,  and  in  order  that  these  «^^t  be  fully 
Koped  an  agent  of  the  board,  chosen  for  his  special  knowledge  of 

flolkhusbandrlin  various  parts  of  the rf^V^r^SiXSic 
rareful  studv  of  the  iadustry  as  it  exists  m  the  Argentine  KeMDut. 
andlhe  adj^ent  pastoral  regions  of  Uruguay  on  the  north  and-Pata. 

^"Pr'oc^fe'direct  to  Punta  Arenas  on  the  Straite  of  MageUan,  a 
^Urfn  offinterritorv.  where  he  obtained  valuable  data  from  the 
grYat  coSatioXo^  asVe  Sodedad  Explotodora,  an  organ^a- 
tbn  oyJng  more  than  a  million  sheep,  be  sailed  to  Rw  ^a feg"^' 
exploring  tie  region,  adjacent  to  that  P°'^/^,t>sequently  ca^^  ^ 
Santa  Craz,  San  Julian,  Deseado  Ri^fda-^^,  and  f "f*^^**!"^'^^^ 
the  Province  of  Chubut,  thence  by  rail  to  Trelew,  'l^f nee  by  coacb 
and  horse  up  the  Chubut  Valley  and  back  to  the  coast  tbence  to  Port 
Antonio  m  Eio  Negro,  and  from  there  by  ?teamer  to  Buenos^Mres. 
From  the  capital  he  went  to  Parana,  Romano  SantaFeGuaUeyguy 
Concordia  Corrientes,  Kesistencia,  and  south  agam  by  Kosano  to 
Buenos  liref  Thence  he  made  Various  oumeys  west  a^d  south 
ente^^r  territory  of  the  Rio  Negro  and  various  parts  of  .the 
ProSe  of  Sos^Aires.    Subsequently  Montevideo  aiid  vanous 

partTof  Ui^guay  were  visited  In  view  of  t^e  £r^f  ^^tt'tRuK 
the  agricultural  resources  of  these  regions  it  is  beheved  that  tUe  suD- 
joined  summary  of  his  observations  shoud  be  recorded. 

The  Argentine  Government  courteously  placed  at  the  agents  dis- 
posal int™ters,  guides,  and  vetermary.  inspectors,  detaJmg  Dr. 
Wnzo  G^rahan,  I  natil^bom  Argentiman  and  a  graduate  of  the 

VeteX^  CoUege  of  the  State  of  Ohio. .  Dr.  Ga"^a^-£„-«<f  ^'^  J 
the  agent  throughout  most  of  his  joumeymgs.  Dr.  E.  Lobof.'^f  ^' 
of  amculture  and  Dr.  Jose  Leon  Suarez,  chief  of  the  division  of 
canSa,  des'ei^e  the  thanks  of  our  Govermnent  for  help  extended  m 
the  work. 

GENEBAI.  DESOEIPTION  OP  THE  SHEEP-RAI8IKG  REGIONS  OF  ABGENTINA, 

INCLUDING  PABTS  OP  SOUTHERN  CHILE. 

The  island  of  Tierra  del  Fuego,  one-ha,lf  of  which  is  Chilean,  is 
one  of  the  best  sheep  countries  in  the  world.  On  this  ^land  and  on 
Z  mainland  adjacent,  in  Chilean  territory,  tbere  ^ts  one  of  the 
greatest  sheep  ranches  in  the  world,  and  one  of  t^^f. ^^* J^^'^^f^^ 
producing  good  wool  at  a  low  cost  and  exceUent  mutton,  which  goes 

frozen  or  canned  to  England.  ...,.,  i  ii_ 

The  island  has  a  rich,%lack  soil,  often  inclmed  to  be  peaty;  usually 

abundant  rainfall;  not  enough  snow  to  do  harm;  and  is  covered 

with  good,  close-set,  nutritious  forage  plants,  white  clover,  redtop, 

519 


INTENTIONAL  SECOND  EXPOSURE 


A  PATAGONIAN   ESTANCIA  HOUSE. 


iiaiiDM ■■ ■ I IIIIIIW^^^^^^^^^ 


.      'I-     t -    I  I ■^■;i-;*-r*-~" 


W.  K'M^^^ii:B?"f:jA} 


CROSSBRED   ROMNEY  SHEEP  IN  SOUTH   AMERICA. 


GEITERAI  COKDiriONS  IN"  SOUTH  AMERICA. 

Second  only  in  importance  to  Australasia  in  the  production  of 
sheep  and  wool  in  competition  in  the  United  States  market,  South 
America  presents  conditions  differing  materially  from  those  prevail- 
ing on  the  other  continents,  and  in  order  that  these  imght  be  lully 
developed  an  agent  of  the  board,  chosen  for  his  special  knowledge  of 
flock  husbandry  in  various  parts  of  the  world,  was  directed  to  make  a 
careful  study  of  the  industry  as  it  exists  in  the  Argentme  Ke^bhc 
and  the  adjacent  pastoral  regions  of  Uruguay  on  the  north  and  Fata- 
gonia  on  the  south.  . 

Proceeding  direct  to  Punta  Arenas  on  the  Straits  of  Magellan,  a 
city  in  Chilean  territory,  where  he  obtained  valuable  data  from  the 
great  corporation  known  as  the  Sociedad  Explotodora,  an  organiza- 
tion ownmg  more  than  a  million  sheep,  he  sailed  to  Rio  Gallegos, 
exploring  the  region  adjacent  to  that  port,  subsequently  calling  at 
Santa  Cruz,  San  JuUan,  Deseado,  Rivadavia,  and  Port  Madryn,  in 
the  Province  of  Chubut,  th«nce  by  rail  to  Trelew,  thence  by  coach 
and  horse  up  the  Chubut  Valley  and  back  to  the  coast,  thence  to  Port 
Antonio  hi  Rio  Negro,  and  from  there  by  steamer  to  Buenos  Aires. 
From  the  capital  he  went  to  Parana,  Rosario,  Santa  Fe,  Gualle:^guy, 
Concordia,  Corrientes,  Resistencia,  and  south  agaki  by  Rosario  to 
Buenos  Aires.  Thence  he  made  various  journeys  west  and  south, 
entermg  the  territory  of  the  Rio  Negro  and  various  parts  of  the 
Province  of  Buenos  Aires.  Subsequently  Montevideo  and  various 
parts  of  Uruguay  were  visited.  In  view  of  the  interest  attacliing  to 
the  agricultural  resources  of  these  regions  it  is  believed  that  the  sub- 
joined summary  of  his  observations  should  be  recorded. 

The  Argentine  Government  courteously  placed  at  the  agent's  dis- 

Eosal  interpreters,  guides,  and  veterinary  inspectors,  detailing  Dr. 
(orenzo  Garrahan,  a  native-bom  Argentinian  and  a  graduate  of  the 
Veterinary  College  of  the  State  of  Ohio.  Dr.  Garrahan  accompanied 
the  agent  throughout  most  of  his  joumeyings.  Dr.  E.  Lobos,  mmister 
of  agriculture,  and  Dr.  Jose  Leon  Suarez,  chief  of  the  division  of 
canaderia,  deserve  the  thanks  of  our  Government  for  help  extended  m 
the  work. 

GENERAL  DESCRIPTION  OF  THE  SHEEP-RAISING  REGIONS  OF  ARGENTINA, 

INCLUDING   PARTS   OF   SOUTHERN   CHILE. 

The  island  of  Tierra  del  Fuego,  one-half  of  which  is  Chilean,  is 
one  of  the  best  sheep  countries  in  the  world.  On  this  island  and  on 
the  mainland  adjacent,  in  Chilean  territory,  there  exists  one  of  the 
greatest  sheep  ranches  in  the  world,  and  one  of  the  best  managed, 
producing  good  wool  at  a  low  cost  and  excellent  mutton,  which  goes 
frozen  or  canned  to  England. 

The  island  has  a  rich,  black  soil,  often  inclined  to  be  peaty;  usually 
abundant  rainfall;  not  enough  snow  to  do  harm;  and  is  covered 
with  good,  close-set,  nutritious  forage  plants,  white  clover,  redtop, 

519 


520 


BEPOET  OF  TABIFP  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


and  many  similar  grasses,  much  as  are  the  best  Ohio  pastures.  AH 
of  the  island  ia  fuUy  stocked,  and  has  been  for  many  years.  The 
types  of  sheep  seen  here  are  the  Romney,  the  lincohi,  and  some  few 
Corriedales  (of  New  Zealand),  a  cross  between  Lincoln  and  merino. 
Very  good  but  rather  coarse  wools  come  from  the  r^on  along  the 
Straits  of  Magellan.  There  is  absolutely  no  handicap  to  shepherding 
here.  Wild  dogs  and  a  few  foxes  are  the  sole  destroying  animals. 
The  fenced  pastures  carry  their  flocks  the  year  around  with  no  extra 
feeding.  Owing  to  violent  winds  and  cold  summers  Uttle  or  no 
agriculture  is  practiced.  The  number  of  sheep  reported  in  Tierra  del 
Ii\iego  on  the  Argentine  side  only  is  1,341,351,  an  ahnost  incredible 
number  for  so  small  a  country. 

North  of  the  island  is  the  Argentine  territorjr  of  Santa  Cruz.  This 
is  a  vast  region,  not  yet  fully  stocked  with  sheep.  Its  south  and 
west  are  well  grassed,  its  north  and  east  are  semidesert,  yet  this 
region  is  capable  of  carrying  about  1,200  sheep  to  the  league  of 
about  6,250  acres.  At  Rio  Gallegos  one  sees  fine,  fat  muttons,  and 
again  at  the  Coyle,  with  fewer  fat  sheep  as  one  goes  northward.  The 
sheep  of  this  region  were  originally  eitlier  Rambouillets  from  the  Rio 
Negro,  or  lincohis  from  the  Falkland  Islands.  Now  many  Romney 
rams  are  used,  and  also  Lincolns.  The  wools  of  Santa  Cruz  are  good 
wools,  clean  and  strong,  but  of  a  somewhat  coarse  nature,  except  in 
the  crossbreds,  and  the  merinos  of  the  northern  coast  lands.  It  is 
reasonable  to  look  for  a  considerable  increase  in  the  numbers  of  sheep 
in  Santa  Cruz,  though  at  present  much  of  the  land  is  stocked,  and  some 
is  overstocked.  It  is  the  land  back  from  the  coast  that  is  being 
newly  stocked.  Transportation  is  very  difficult  indeed  from  the  foot 
of  the  Ajides  to  the  coast,  owing  to  the  poor  grazing  for  the  oxen  and 
the  total  absence  of  any  amcidtureand  the  impossiblHty  of  purchasing 
forage.  The  Santa  Cruz  River  is  now  being  opened  to  navigation, 
which  shoidd  develop  a  rich  grazing  region.  It  is  nearly  certain  that  the 
numbers  of  sheep  and  output  of  wools  from  Santa  Criiz  will  augment, 
and  perhaps  may  increase  50  to  100  per  cent.  According  to  the 
census  of  1910,  there  were  in  Santa  Cruz  2,387,566  sheep,  and  the 
territory  can  probably  support  easily  5,000,000  sheep.  To  do  tliis 
will  require  the  erection  of  many  windmills  for  pumping  water,  and 
much  fencing. 

Chubut  and  parts  of  Santa  Cruz  are  to  be  opened  up  by  new 
Government  railways  now  imder  construction,  which  will  enable  a 
great  many  more  sheep  to  be  kept.  All  of  eastern  Chubut  is  practi- 
cally a  desert  country^  covered  thinly  with  desert  shrubs.  There  is  a 
small  amount  of  nutntious  grass  under  and  between  the  shrubs.  It 
is  almost  too  poor  to  pay  to  fence  and  stock,  yet  this  is  being  done  on  a 
considerable  scale.  The  Government  sells  the  land  usually  for 
$4,400  per  league  of  nearly  6,250  acres.  In  the  back  parts  of  Cnubut 
is  a  fine  grazing  country  near  the  base  of  the  Andes.  The  trouble 
here  is  that  the  bringing  down  of  the  wool  is  difficult.  It  is  esti- 
mated that  Chubut,  wluch  now  has  about  2,123,628  sheep,  could 
easily  double,  and  probably  quadruple  the  numbers.  This  probably 
will  not  be  done  soon,  and  the  growth  will  be  gradual.  The  sheep  of 
Chubut  are  very  largely  of  RambouiDet  type,  though  there  are  many 
Lincoln  rams  used  on  RambouiUet  ewes.  The  wools  of  Chubut, 
while  very  good,  are  often  heavy  with  sand,  owing  to  the  nature  of 
the  soil  and  the  furious  winds  that  often  prevail  throughout  all  the 
Patagonian  region. 


BEPOBT  OF  TAKIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


521 


BIO   NEGBO. 

The  immense  territory  of  Rio  Negro  is  not  heavily  stocked  with 
sheep  at  the  present  time.  Along  the  rivers  and  in  the  west  along  the 
mountains  are  estancias.  There  are  now  4,724,844  sheep  in  the  ter- 
ritory, according  to  the  census  of  1910.  They  are  almost  umversally 
of  RambouiUet  blood.  The  territory  is  probably  capable  of  carrying 
several  times  its  present  number  of  sheep,  but  it  awaits  transporta- 
tion facihties,  the  selling  of  the  land,  and  fencing,  and  the  advent  of 
American  windmills.     The  Government  is  now  building  a  raihoad  mto 

the  interior.  -.  t^  •    xt         •    x 

The  reason  for  the  probable  slow  development  of  Rio  Negro  is  to 
be  found  in  the  character  of  the  soil  and  climate  and  the  hmited 
number  of  sheep  that  can  be  carried  to  the  league.  All  of  Patagonia 
has  been  the  bed,  and  later  the  beach,  of  the  sea.  The  soil  is  very  thm 
and  rests  on  coarse  gravel  or  sliingle.  Probably  there  is  no  more 
immense  region  in  the  world  of  so  uniform  a  character  as  this.  From 
a  httle  way  below  Bahia  Blanca  the  sliingle  beds  stretch  away  nearly 
to  the  coast  at  Punta  Arenas.  There  are  alluvial  valleys  of  small 
extent  and  occasional  mountains  that  rise  above  the  shiiigle,  but  99 
per  cent  of  the  land  well  toward  the  mountains  is  of  this  character. 
The  rainfall  is  Hght  and  irregular.  For  example,  at  the  time  of  this 
investigation  there  had  been  three  years  without  one  good  rain  in  the 
Rio  Negro  country.  The  result  is  a  vegetation  of  desert  nature, 
sparse  grass  between  the  shrubs,  scattered  bushes  of  stunted  growth, 

and  no  trees. 

Much  of  the  laad  of  Patagonia  is  now  held  at  $10,000  per  league 
(nearly  6,250  acres),  or  $4,400  in  Argentine  gold.  As  these  desert 
lands  are  expensive  to  water,  fence,  and  equip,  the  margin  of  profit  in 
sheep  farming  on  that  basis  might  be  very  small  or  disappear  alto- 
gether. Wliere  estancias  have  been  established  in  these  deserts,  the 
brush  cleared  away  about  the  headquarters,  and  the  wind  allowed 
access  to  the  earth,  the  sand  has  sometimes  drifted  away  down  to  the 
bare  sliingle,  and  corrals  and  yards  are  filled  with  the  drifting  sand. 
The  wools  of  the  Rio  Negro  country  are  good,  strong  merino  wools, 
but  rather  heavy  with  sand. 

Neither  Chubut,  Rio  Negro,  nor  northern  Santa  Cruz  will  com- 
pete much  with  the  United  States  in  production  of  mutton  m  the 
near  future.  It  is  a  land  of  sparse  and  dry  grass,  therefore  a  wool- 
producing  region  chiefly,  though  no  doubt  many  good  canning  sheep 
will  be  produced.  Irrigation,  too,  will  in  time  produce  alfalfa  m 
both  Rio  Negro  and  Chubut,  and  this  will,  no  doubt,  be  fed  to  sheep. 

THE   PBOVINCE   OF   BUENOS  AIBES. 

The  Province  of  Buenos  Aires  was  at  one  time,  practically  speaking, 
Argentma.  Here  the  best  types  of  soils  are  found,  also  the  most 
regular  rainfall,  though  this  even  here  is  a  variable  quantity,  leaving 
much  to  be  desired.  In  addition,  there  is  the  nearness  of  the  flocks 
to  the  sea  and  the  great  centers  of  shipping  and  consumption. 

The  area  of  the  Province  of  Buenos  Aires  is,  roughly  speaking,  about 
half  that  of  France.  The  Province  was  crossed  in  three  directions, 
and  nowhere  was  seen  any  large  area  of  second-rate  soil.  Nearly 
every  bit  of  the  Province  consists  of  extremely  fertile  soil.    It  is 


522 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEBUMI  K, 


mostly  all  alluvial  and  was  no  doubt  laid  there  by  the  great  rivers  in 
prehistoric  days  before  the  land  was  Hf ted  above  the  sea.  It  is  not,  by 
the  way,  lifted  now  very  high  above  sea  level,  and  the  greater  part  of 
the  Province  is  as  flat  as  land  can  be.  It  is  singularly  free  from 
watercourses.  In  many  parts  of  the  Provmce  one  could  drive  a  plow 
for  10  or  20  miles  without  encountering  either  tree,  stone,  marsh,  or 
watercourse.  The  fact  is,  the  rainfall  is  so  nicely  proportioned  to  the 
capacity  of  the  soil  to  absorb  it  that  there  is  Uttle  to  run  off.  In 
truth,  there  is  not  often  enough  ram  to  fully  saturate  the  earth,  and 
drought  is  the  bugbear  of  Buenos  Aires,  as  it  is  of  other  parts  of  Argen- 
tina. The  Provmce  now  contains  (by  estimate  in  1910)  about 
35,000,000  sheep  and  1 0,300,000  cattle.  The  country  is  fully  stocked, 
and  during  the  four  dry  years  just  passed  it  has  proved  to  be  over- 
stocked. That  is,  it  can  not,  under  natural  conditions,  carry  more 
animals  than  it  carries  now.  With  agriculture  and  crops  sown  to  aid 
the  live  stock,  such  as  oats  for  winter  grazing,  alfalfa  for  nearly  all 
the  year  crazing,  and  perhaps  certain  grasses,  the  Province  can  carry 
verv  mucli  more  stock  than  it  carries  to-day.  How  fast  agriculture 
will  advance  to  aid  animals,  one  can  only  conjecture.  In  the  west 
men  are  ouite  rapidly  laying  down  camps  to  alfalfa.  This  is  to  be 
grazed  ott  by  cattle,  not  sheep.  In  the  south  the  Basque  sheep 
farmers  are  beginning  energetically  to  sow  oats  for  sheep  grazing, 
which  is  increasing  the  number  of  sheep  on  their  lands.  One  promi- 
nent estanciero,  at  least,  is  sowing  alfalfa  and  mixed  grasses  for  his 
sheep.  All  this  will  result  in  raising  the  carrying  capacity  of  the 
lands  and  increasing  the  owners'  profits. 

At  present  the  influence  is  mostly  in  the  other  direction  and 
tends  rather  to  decrease  than  to  increase  the  number  of  sheep  in 
this  province.  The  land  is  worth  too  much  money  on  the  market 
to  be  profitable  with  cattle  or  sheep  grazing.  The  summer  droughts 
make  it  hard  to  grow  cultivated  grasses.  AlfaKa  is  a  success  in  every 
part  of  the  country,  though  it  thrives  best  in  the  west,  where  the 
soil  is  underlaid  with  a  sandy  subsoil  that  is  a  natural  reservoir  of 
moisture. 

Agriculture  is  coming  in  rapidly  and  lands  are  constantly  being 
subdivided  into  farms  or  "chacras"  and  sold  to  farmers  or  the 
so-called  "chacereos."  These  farms  are  devoted  to  potatoes,  wheat, 
oats,  flaxseed,  rarelv  to  maize  in  this  Province,  or  to  peaches  and 
other  fruits  near  the  cities.  Never,  so  far  as  was  noted,  do  the 
chacereos  keep  hve  stock  on  their  farms,  more  than  the  animals 
needed  for  work,  or  perhaps  some  cows  for  dairy  use  or  a  few  sheep 
bought  for  food  to  be  killed  off  one  at  a  time  as  needed.  No  instances 
were  noted  of  a  farmer  with  a  small  place  keeping  breeding  ewes. 

Estancieros  very  often  lease  lands  to  the  chacereos  or  colonists, 
usually  for  wheat  growing.  This  withdraws  the  land  from  stock 
growing  for  from  three  to  five  years,  when  it  is  sown  to  alfalfa  and 
returned  to  stock  again,  while  the  colonist  moves  on  to  develop 
another  piece  of  land  from  the  wild  camp  to  wheat,  and  later,  in 
turn,  to  alfalfa. 

There  is  enormous  immigration  of  Italian  and  other  colonists  to 
Argentina.  It  is  safe  to  say  that  every  shipload  of  ItaUan  colonists 
displaces  for  manv  years  a  certain  defimte  number  of  cattle  and  sheep. 
It  IS  not  Hkely  that  in  the  near  future  the  land  that  they  take  will 
be  again  returned  to  grazing  uses,  except  as  we  have  indicated  in 


their  sowing  alfalfa  thereon. 


HOME  OF  AN   ESTANCIERO   IN  CHUBUT,  ARGENTINA. 


HAULING   PELTS   IN   SOUTH   AMERICA. 


INTENTIONAL  SECOND  EXPOSURE 


522 


REPOKT  OP  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE   K. 


mostly  all  alluvial  and  was  no  doubt  laid  tliere  bv  the  great  rivers  in 
preliistoric  days  before  tlie  land  was  lifted  al)ove  the  sea.  It  is  not,  by 
the  wa}^,  lifted  now  very  lugh  above  sea  level,  and  the  greater  part  of 
the  Province  is  as  flat  as  land  can  be.  It  is  singularly  free  from 
watercourses.  In  many  ])arts  of  the  Province  one  could  drive  a  plow 
for  10  or  20  miles  without  encountering  either  tree,  stone,  marsli,  or 
watercourse.  The  fact  is,  the  rainfall  is  so  nicely  proportioned  to  the 
capacity  of  the  soil  to  absorb  it  that  there  is  little  to  run  off.  In 
trutli,  there  is  not  often  enough  rain  to  fullv  saturate  the  earth,  and 
drought  is  tlie  bugbear  of  Buenos  iiires,  as  it  Is  of  other  parts  of  Argen- 
tina. The  Province  now  contains  (by  estimate  in  1910)  about 
35,000,000  sheep  and  10,300,000  cattle.  Tlie  country  is  fully  stocked, 
and  during  tlie  four  dry  }'ears  just  passed  it  has  proved  to  be  over- 
stocked. That  is,  it  can  not,  under  natural  conditions,  carry  more 
animals  than  it  carries  now.  Witli  agriculture  and  crops  sown  to  aid 
the  live  stock,  sucli  as  oats  for  winter  grazing,  alfalfa  for  nearly  all 
the  year  grazing,  and  perhaps  certain  grasses,  the  Province  can  carry 
very  much  more  stock  tlian  it  carries  to-day.  How  fast  agriculture 
will  advance  to  aid  animals,  one  can  only  conjecture.  In  the  west 
men  are  quite  rapidly  laying  down  camps  to  alfalfa.  This  is  to  be 
grazed  off  by  cattle,  not  sheep.  In  the  south  the  Basque  slieep 
farmers  are  beginning  energetically  to  sow  oats  for  sheep  grazing, 
which  is  increasing  the  number  of  slieep  on  their  lands.  One  promi- 
nent estanciero,  at  least,  is  sowing  alfalfa  and  mixed  grasses  for  his 
slieep.  All  tliis  will  result  in  raising  the  carrying  capacity  of  the 
lands  and  increasing^  the  owners'  profits. 

At  present  the  influence  is  mostly  in  the  other  direction  and 
tends  rather  to  decrease  than  to  increase  the  number  of  sheep  in 
this  province.  The  land  is  worth  too  much  money  on  the  market 
to  be  profitable  mtli  cattle  or  sheep  grazing.  The  summer  droughts 
make  it  hard  to  grow  cultivated  grasses.  Alfalfa  is  a  success  in  every 
part  of  the  country,  though  it  thrives  best  in  the  west,  where  the 
soil  is  underlaid  with  a  sandy  subsoil  that  is  a  natural  reservoir  of 
moisture. 

Acp-iculture  is  coming  in  rapidly  and  lands  are  constantly  being 
subdivided  into  farms  or  "chacras"  and  sold  to  farmers  or  the 
so-called  "chacereos."  These  farms  are  devoted  to  potatoes,  wheat, 
oats,  flaxseed,  rarely  to  maize  in  tliis  Province,  or  to  peaches  and 
other  fruits  near  the  cities.  Never,  so  far  as  was  noted,  do  the 
chacereos  keep  live  stock  on  their  farms,  more  than  the  animals 
needed  for  work,  or  perhaps  some  cows  for  dairy  use  or  a  few  sheep 
bought  for  food  to  be  killed  off  one  at  a  time  as  needed.  No  instances 
were  noted  of  a  farmer  with  a  small  place  keeping  breeding  ewes. 

Estancieros  very  often  lease  lands  to  the  cnacereos  or  colonists, 
usually  for  wlieat  growing.  This  withdraws  the  land  from  stock 
growing  for  from  tlu-ee  to  five  years,  wlien  it  is  sown  to  alfalfa  and 
returned  to  stock  again,  wliile  the  colonist  moves  on  to  develop 
another  piece  of  land  from  the  wild  camp  to  wheat,  and  later,  ia 
turn,  to  alfalfa. 

Tliere  is  enormous  immigration  of  Italian  and  other  colonists  to 
Argentina.  It  is  safe  to  say  that  every  shipload  of  Italian  colonists 
displaces  for  many  years  a  certain  definite  number  of  cattle  and  sheep. 
It  IS  not  likely  that  in  the  near  future  tlie  land  that  they  take  will 
be  again  returned  to  grazing  uses,  except  as  we  have  indicated  in 
their  sowing  alfalfa  thereon. 


HOME  OF  AN    ESTANCIERO    IN   CHUBUT,   ARGENTINA. 


HAULING   PELTS   IN   SOUTH   AMERICA. 


f 


BEPOBT  OF  TAEIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDUMl  K. 


523 


The  Province  of  Buenos  Aires  is  probably  the  greatest  expanse 
of  rich  soil  in  the  world,  but  it  is  greatly  hampered  by  drought  and 
periodical  visitation  of  locusts. 

The  sheep  in  the  Province  are  certainly  decreasing,  and  while  it  has 
been  shown  how  they  can  be  increased,  yet  there  seems  no  proba- 
bility of  it  being  soon  done.  It  is  far  more  probable  that  agriculture 
will  increase,  and  sheep  be  more  and  more  driven  out.  Cattle  breed- 
ing will  hold  its  own  better  than  sheep  breeding,  owing  to  the  exten- 
sion of  alfalfa  and  the  adaptability  of  cattle  to  feeding  on  it. 

The  quaUty  of  both  sheep  and  cattle  in  this  province  is  remarkably 
good. 


ENTEE   RIGS. 


There  remains  to  be  briefly  described  the  Provinces  of  Entre  Rios 
and  Corrientes.  Entre  Rios  is  a  land  of  very  rich  soil,  not  so  well 
adapted  to  alfalfa  as  the  Province  of  Buenos  Aires.  Undulating 
more  or  less,  instead  of  being  quite  flat,  it  is,  in  parts,  thinly  covered 
with  rather  small  trees.  It  is  naturally  a  good  sheep  country.  It 
had  in  1910,  7,005,469  sheep.  The  drought  of  1909-1911  may  have 
decreased  that  number  somewhat,  as  many  died.  It  is  fully  occu- 
pied and  fully  stocked  with  sheep  and  cattle.  It  is  a  land  where 
perennial  grasses  are  not  much  seen  and  those  found  are  of  hard, 
coarse  kinds  of  little  use.  The  nutritious  grasses  are  mostly  annuals, 
and  annual  clovers  abound.  The  Province  is  going  rapidly  to  agri- 
culture. Sheep  will  probably  decrease  rather  fast  in  Entre  Rios  in 
consequence.  It  is  a  curious  fact  there  that  the  colonists,  mainly 
Italians,  never  keep  animals  on  their  places  aside  from  an  occasional 
small  flock  of  sheep  for  food,  and  possibly  a  cow  or  two,  and  their 
working  animals.  The  wools  of  Entre  Kios  are  largely  cross  bred 
wools  of  good  sorts,  and  are  liked  by  the  manufacturers  of  the 
United  States.  The  prevailing  breeds  are  RambouiUet,  Lincoln,  and 
Romney  Marsh. 

CORRIENTES. 

Corrientes,  north  of  Entre  Rios,  has  a  hotter  climate  and  a  low 
surface,  with  much  marsh  land  and  soils  covered  with  subtropical 
forests  and  palms.  Sheep  are  there  increasing  somewhat,  since  the 
soil  is  not  well  adapted  to  agriculture  in  the  greater  part,  being  a 
hard,  often  impervious,  clay.  There  were  but  3,138,563  sheep  in 
Corrientes  at  the  last  census.  Their  increase  will  be  slow,  and  wet 
years  would  check  it  altogether.  It  is  a  great  cattle  country,  but 
many  of  the  herds  are  of  the  unimproved  native  stock,  with  wide 
horns  and  huge  bony  frames.  They  go  to  the  saladeros,  or  salting 
works,  at  about  5  or  6  years  of  age.  There  is  a  field  in  Corrientes  for 
American  tick-proof  bulls  to  improve  the  native  cattle.  Good  cattle 
thrive  in  southern  Corrientes  and  some  day  doubtless  will  over  all  of 
the  Province. 

CHACO. 

Beyond  the  River  Parana,  which,  at  the  city  of  Corrientes  is  much 
larger  than  the  Mississippi  at  New  Orleans,  lies  the  Chaco,  an  im- 
mense new  region  of  timber  and  open  glades,  with  a  little  agriculture 
beginning,  but  practically  no  live  stock.  There  is  no  probability  of 
much  immediate  development  of  a  live-stock  industry  m  that  region, 


524 


BEPOBT  OF  TAMFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEl>tn.E  K. 


BEPORT  OF   TARIFF   BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


525 


I 


If 


I J I Ill 

>f > w 


although  it  grows  good  cotton,  oranges,  and  various  tropical  products. 
Coming  southward,  through  Santa  Fe,  are  areas  of  maize  lands  where 
sheep  have  been  diriven  out  to  a  very  great  extent.  The  Province 
of  Santa  Fe  has  1,992,110  sheep.  Their  numbers  may  decrease 
here  steadily,  though  the  number  of  cattle,  now  2,639,480,  will  in- 
crease, no  doubt,  owing  to  the  laying  down  of  lands  to  alfalfa. 
In  Pampa  Central,  the  5,000,000  sheep  are  decreasing,  due  to  the 
coming  in  of  agriculture.  Cattle,  on  the  other  hand,  are  likely  to 
increase,  as  it  is  a  great  alfalfa-growing  region. 

GENERAL    CONCLUSIONS. 

There  ia  no  doubt  that  sheep  breeding  in  Argentina  has  passed  its 
meridian  and  is  now  on  the  decline.  This  is  because  of  the  large 
immigration  to  Argentina  and  the  continual  laying  down  of  lands  to 
agriculture.  The  only  exceptions  to  this  rule  are  to  be  seen  in  Pata- 
gonia, where  agriculture  probably  will  not  come  except  in  hmited 
areas  of  irrigable  land. 

Probably  m  all  the  worid  there  is  no  region  w^here  the  shepherd's 
life  is  easier  than  in  Argentina.  Since  the  wild  dogs  that  once 
afficted  the  sheep  have  been  killed  off  there  have  been  practically 
no  wild  animals  to  trouble,  except  that  in  the  mountams  there  are  a 
few  pumas,  or  mountain  hons.  Except  along  the  base  of  the  Andes 
the  climate  is  everywhere  so  mild  that  no  winter  feeding  is  needed. 
In  the  north,  if  there  is  rain,  grasses  will  remain  green  almost  the 
year  around.  Disease  is  rare,  except  in  the  marshy  regions,  or  dur- 
ing cycles  of  unusual  rainfall,  w^hen  stomach  worms  trouble  a  great 
deal,  as  they  do  in  North  America,  though  seldom  on  so  great  a  scale 

as  there. 

The  one  thing  afflicting  the  sheep  of  Argentina  is  scab.  This  is  no 
doubt  harder  to  eradicate  than  in  North  America.  It  is  a  condition 
quite  prevalent  and  few  estancias  are  so  clean  that  they  have  ceased 
dipping.  Certain  enterprising  estancieros  have,  however,  abolished 
scab  and  ceased  dipping  their  sheep,  so  that  it  is  shown  to  be  quite 
practicable  to  do  so.  The  common  custom  is  to  dip  several  times 
each  year,  but  not  in  close  succession,  which  is  necessary  to  free  the 
flocks  of  scab. 

Chiefly,  there  are  three  breeds  of  sheep  in  Argentina — the  Rambouil- 
let,  the  Lincoln,  and  the  Romney  Marsh.  Between  these  breeds 
there  exist  innumerable  crosses.  The  crossbred  wools  are  the  best, 
and  are  usually  produced  at  the  lowest  price.  The  tendency  for  many 
years  has  been  to  use  only  Lincoln  or  Romney  rams,  so  that  the 
wools  grow  coarser  and  coarser.  There  is  now  some  thought  of 
returning  to  the  Rambouillet,  or,  rather,  of  using  crossbred  Ram- 
bouillet,  Lincohi,  and  Romnev  rams  in  order  to  get  into  the  flocks 
about  25  per  cent  of  merino  blood,  which  refines  the  wool  and  makes 
a  mutton  animal  well  liked  by  the  frigorificos. 

The  old  Pampa  crioUa  sheep^  with  its  hairy  wool,  is  seen  only  in 
remote  districts,  as  among  Indian  sheep  owners  in  the  Andes  or  in 
the  far  north. 

Contrasting  cattle  breeding  with  sheep  breeding,  the  production 
of  good  cattle  on  alfalfa  will  no  doubt  increase  in  Argentma  as  time 
goes  on,  especially  if  prices  for  beef  remain  good.  It  is  probably  the 
most  marvelous  place  for  cattle  breeding  in  the  world.  This  is  espe- 
cially true  of  the  regions  where  alfalfa  is  grown    In  Argentina  cattle 


seem  to  bloat  very  little  on  alfalfa  pasture.  They  run  in  thousands 
on  the  alfalfa  pastures,  which  are  perpetual,  and  in  winter  eat  alfalfa 
hay  from  the  neks  piled  up  for  them  without  men  taking  the  trouble, 
as  a  rule,  to  take  it  out  to  them.  Thus  since  1895,  while  the  sheep 
in  the  Province  of  Buenos  Aires  decreased  18,000,000,  the  cattle 
increased  2,600,000. 

DIFFICULTIES   IN   THE   WAY   OF   THE   STOCK  GROWER. 

Briefly,  the  great  defect  in  Argentina  is  the  weather,  which  is  most 
uncertain.  There  is  no  sure  dependence  to  be  placed  on  the  weather. 
Rains  may  come  at  any  time  of  the  year,  or  they  may  not  come  at  all. 
Sometimes  a  region  will  be  without  much,  if  any,  rain  for  one,  two,  or 
three  years.  Again,  there  wiU  be  a  series  of  years  when  the  rainfall 
will  be  normal.    The  rainfall  is,  in  normal  years,  just  sufficient  for  the 

grasses  and  crops.  In  exceedingly  rare  seasons  it  is  excessive.  Per- 
aps  in  half  the  years  it  is  too  hght.  One  year  in  seven,  more  or  less, 
it  is  withheld.  In  1830  nearly  all  the  cattle,  horses,  and  sheep  of 
Argentina  perished.  No  doubt  the  losses  were  more  severe  than  they 
could  be  to-day,  for  the  animals  probably  perished  of  thirst  more  than 
hunger,  since  there  were  no  streams,  the  shallow  lagoons  dried  up,  and 
there  was  absolutely  not  a  drop  of  water  for  an  animal  to  drmk  in 
hundreds  and  thousands  of  square  miles.  To-day  wells  and  wind- 
mills abound  on  every  hand. 

Again,  coupled  with  drought  is  the  uncertainty  of  temperature. 
The  heat  is  intense  during  the  summer,  yet  south  of  Buenos  Aires 
there  is  hardly  a  month  when  frost  is  unlmown.  This  depends  upo 
the  direction  of  the  wind.  If  it  blows  long  from  the  soutn,  it  brings 
cold.  This  fact  has  seldom  much  influence  upon  the  sheep  grower, 
but  has  powerful  influence  on  agricultural  possibilities. 

Like  the  plagues  of  Egypt  come  the  locusts.  These,  also,  are 
erratic  in  their  coming.  There  will  be  a  series  of  years,  maybe 
four  or  six  or  more,  with  no  locusts,  then  the  insects  come  swarm- 
ing from  the  north  and  devour  every  green  and  living  thing. 
Once  they  have  come  they  will  probably  return  yearly  for  four  to  six 
vears,  after  which  time  they  will  be  seen  no  more  for  a  term  of  years. 
No  one  knows  whence  they  come.  They  are  supposed  to  breed  in 
northern  forests.  They  breed  also  in  the  southern  camps.  In  spite 
of  these  two  factors,  the  soil  is  so  rich  that  Argentine  agriculture 
flourishes  amazingly. 

THE  AGRICULTUEE   OF  AEGENTINA. 

The  farming  of  Argentine  soils  is  at  present  done  solely*  on  the 
extensive,  not  on  the  intensive  system.  The  colonists  are  for  the 
greater  part  Italians.  They  take  large  tracts  of  land,  sometimes  as 
much  as  400  or  more  acres  to  the  man,  and  till  them  as  best  they  can. 
Then*  plowing  is  done  with  American  riding  plows  as  a  rule,  and  all 
the  family  will  assist,  the  women  and  even  tne  children  driving  the 
animals.  The  plowing  is  generally  poorly  done.  The  seeding  is  now 
done  with  good  American  machinery,  as  is  also  the  harvesting, 
although  Australian  reapers  are  to  some  extent  displacing  ours. 
The  yields  of  wheat  are  low,  compared  with  the  extraordinary  fertility 
of  the  soil,  and  when  a  good  yield  is  obtained  the  colonists  are  usually 


526 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDUMJ  K. 


•f 


« 


t 


unable  to  cope  with  the  harvest,  and  much  of  the  gram  is  left  upon 
the  ground.  The  tenants  are  given  the  naked  land,  furnishing  their 
own  houses  of  adobe  walls  and  iron  roofs.  They  commonly  have  no 
trees  or  flowers  about  them,  and  often  not  even  a  garden.  After 
about  four  or  five  years  of  such  culture  the  land  is  taken  over  by 
the  landlord,  sown  to  alfalfa,  the  tenant  takes  a  new  piece  of  virgin 
camp  or  grassland,  plows  it,  and  repeats  his  program. 

Rentals  vary  between  20  and  35  per  cent  given  to  the  landlord. 
Cash  rent  is  of  from  SI  to  $20  per  acre,  the  latter  price  being  paid  for 
extraordinarily  good  land  for  growing  Mnseed  near  the  La  Plata  River. 
The  soil  is  possibly  the  most  marvelous  expanse  of  richness  in  the 
world.  All  of  agricultural  Argentina,  with  the  exception  of  Entre 
Rios,  Tucuman,  and  some  scattered  irrigated  valleys,  is  alluvial  earth 
deposited  in  ancient  times  by  the  marvelous  River  Parana.  The  land 
is  dead  level,  as  a  rule.  It  has  no  watercourses  throughout  its  greater 
expanses.  There  is  not  descent  enough  to  make  it  erode  a  watercourse. 
There  is  not  usually  rainfall  enough  to  make  much  water  run  to  the 
sea.  In  ordmary  years  every  drop  of  rain  is  absorbed  by  the  soil, 
which  is  often  quite  retentive  of  moisture. 

Alfalfa  thrives  best  in  the  west  of  the  province  of  Buenos  Aires,  in 
Santa  Fe,  in  Cordoba  and  Pampa  Central.  It  thrives  where  the  soil 
IS  underlaid  with  sand,  so  that  there  is  a  natural  reservoir  of  moisture. 
The  methods  of  seeding  alfalfa  are  various.  Usually  it  is  sown  in  the 
autumn,  though  sometimes  in  the  spring.  Once  a  stand  is  secured 
on  such  land,  it  is  nearly  permanent.  It  is  a  curious  fact  that  the 
alfalfa  has  lowered  the  water  level  of  the  soil  many  feet  in  the  regions 
where  its  culture  is  common,  so  that  the  wells  have  had  to  be  deepened. 
Alfalfa  is  almost  spontaneous  to  the  land,  especially  in  the  deep  soils 
underlaid  with  moisture-retaining  sand.  Some  day  many  sheep  will 
be  fattened  by  being  put  on  alfalfa  pastures.  At  present  it  is  a  prac- 
tice little  seen,  since  the  estancieros  maintain  that  sheep  seriously 
injure  the  alfalfa.  It  is  a  pernicious  custom  in  Argentina  to  pasture 
alfalfa  meadows  too  close. 

Maize  culture  in  Argentina  is  at  present  in  a  transitory  stage.  The 
Italian  colonist  began  by  sowing  the  maize  broadcast.  Later  he 
drilled  it  in  rows  close  together  and  gave  no  cultivation.  The  varie- 
ties used  were  of  a  small  flint  type.  Later  he  learned  to  put  his 
rows  wider  apart,  and  now  he  is  beginning  in  a  small  way  to  culti- 
vate to  conserve  moisture.  Very  Uttle  of  the  corn  planted  is  given 
what  a  North  American  farmer  would  call  a  good  chance.  It  speaks 
eloquently  of  Argentine  soils  that  a  harvest  is  secured  at  all  consicfering 
the  methods  of  many  of  the  colonists. 

In  1910-11  the  Government  experimented  with  the  lister  and 
North  American  methods  of  cultivation.  The  result  was  to  nearly 
quadruple  the  crop  in  that  year  of  very  severe  drought.  That  is, 
while  the  maize  under  the  native  methods  yielded  7  bushels,  that 
given  North  American  cultivation  made  about  28  bushels  in  a  year  of 
almost  total  lack  of  rain.  It  is  now  impossible  for  the  colonists  to 
give  that  sort  of  cultivation,  owing  to  their  planting  too  wide  areas 
and  hking  little  or  no  labor.  Sooner  or  later,  they  will  plant  less, 
cultivate  more,  and  then  the  results  are  sure  to  be  better.  We  will 
then,  perhaps,  feel  the  effect  of  Argentine  competition  in  maize 
growing  more  than  we  do  now. 


SHEARING  SHEDS  AND   DIPPING  VAT,  SOUTH   AMERICA. 


FRIGORIFICO  ON   STRAITS  OF  MAGELLAN. 


INTENTIONAL  SECOND  EXPOSURE 


626 


BEPORT  OF  TABIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDUIiE  K. 


unable  to  cope  with  the  harvest,  and  much  of  the  grain  is  left  upon 
the  ground.  The  tenants  are  given  the  naked  land,  furnishing  their 
own  houses  of  adobe  walls  and  iron  roofs.  They  commonly  have  no 
trees  or  flowers  about  them,  and  often  not  even  a  garden.  After 
about  four  or  five  years  of  such  culture  the  land  is  taken  over  by 
the  landlord,  sown  to  alfalfa,  the  tenant  takes  a  new  piece  of  vu-gin 
camp  or  grassland,  plows  it,  and  repeats  his  program.      ,     ,      .,     , 

Rentals  vary  between  20  and  35  per  cent  given  to  the  landlord. 
Cash  rent  is  of  from  $1  to  $20  per  acre,  the  latter  price  being  paid  for 
extraordinarily  good  land  for  growing  linseed  near  the  La  Plata  River. 

The  soil  is  possibly  the  most  marvelous  expanse  of  richness  in  the 
world.  All  of  agricultural  Argentina,  with  the  exception  of  Entre 
Rios,  Tucuman,  and  some  scattered  irrigated  valleys,  is  alluvial  earth 
deposited  in  ancient  times  by  the  marvelous  River  Parana.  The  land 
is  dead  level,  as  a  rule.  It  has  no  watercourses  throughout  its  greater 
expanses.  There  is  not  descent  enough  to  make  it  erode  a  watercourse. 
There  is  not  usually  rainfall  enough  to  make  much  water  run  to  the 
sea.  In  ordinary  years  every  drop  of  rain  is  absorbed  by  the  soil, 
which  is  often  quite  retentive  of  moisture. 

Alfalfa  thrives  best  in  the  west  of  the  province  of  Buenos  Aires,  m 
Santa  Fe,  in  Cordoba,  and  Pampa  Central.  It  thrives  where  the  soil 
is  underlaid  with  sand,  so  that  there  is  a  natural  reservoir  of  moisture. 
The  methods  of  seeding  alfalfa  are  various.  Usually  it  is  sown  in  the 
autumn,  though  sometimes  in  the  spring.  Once  a  stand  is  secured 
on  such  land,  it  is  nearly  permanent.  It  is  a  curious  fact  that  the 
alfalfa  has  lowered  the  water  level  of  the  soil  many  feet  in  the  regions 
where  its  culture  is  common,  so  that  the  wells  have  had  to  be  deepened. 
Alfalfa  is  almost  spontaneous  to  the  land,  especially  in  the  deep  soils 
underlaid  with  moisture-retaining  sand.  Some  day  many  sheep  will 
be  fattened  by  being  put  on  alfalfa  pastures.  At  present  it  is  a  prac- 
tice little  seen,  since  the  estancieros  maintain  that  sheep  seriously 
injure  the  alfalfa.  It  is  a  pernicious  custom  in  Argentina  to  pasture 
alfalfa  meadows  too  close. 

Maize  culture  in  Argentina  is  at  present  in  a  transitory  stage.  The 
Itahan  colonist  began  by  sowing  the  maize  broadcast.  Later  he 
drilled  it  in  rows  close  together  and  gave  no  cultivation.  The  varie- 
ties used  were  of  a  small  flint  type.  Later  he  learned  to  put  his 
rows  wider  apart,  and  now  he  is  beginning  in  a  small  way  to  culti- 
vate to  conserve  moisture.  Very  little  of  the  corn  planted  is  given 
what  a  North  American  farmer  would  call  a  good  chance.  It  speaks 
eloquently  of  Argentine  soils  that  a  harvest  is  secured  at  all  considering 
the  methods  of  many  of  the  colonists. 

In  1910-11  the  Government  experimented  with  the  lister  and 
North  American  methods  of  cultivation.  The  result  was  to  nearly 
quadruple  the  crop  in  that  year  of  very  severe  drought.  That  is, 
while  the  maize  under  the  native  methods  yielded  7  bushels,  that 
given  North  American  cultivation  made  about  28  bushels  m  a  year  of 
almost  total  lack  of  rain.  It  is  now  impossible  for  the  colonists  to 
give  that  sort  of  cultivation,  owing  to  their  planting  too  wide  areas 
and  hkmg  little  or  no  labor.  Sooner  or  later,  they  will  plant  less 
cultivate  more,  and  then  the  results  are  sure  to  be  better.  We  will 
then,,  perhaps,  feel  the  effect  of  Argentine  competition  m  maize 
growing  more  than  we  do  now. 


SHEARING  SHEDS  AND   DIPPING  VAT,  SOUTH   AMERICA. 


I 


FRIGORIFICO  ON   STRAITS  OF  MAGELLAN. 


Ii> 


.ifSr^ 


^I^^MHMHHlia 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDUI/E  K. 


GENERAL  OBSERVATIONS. 


527 


While  Argentina  has  been  colonized  for  a  longer  time  than  North 
America,  its  development  is  recent.  The  great  development  dates 
from  about  the  year  1890,  when  railway  building,  wheat  growing, 
and  exportation  of  food  products  began  on  a  large  scale.  Smce  that 
year  the  mcrease  in  development  has  been  enormous. 

Despite  the  advances  made,  the  lands  of  Buenos  Aires  and  the  other 
provinces  are  not  nearly  at  their  ultimate  development.  They  await 
the  advent  of  colonists  and  the  plow.  These  are  commg  rapidly. 
Rains  having  fallen  abundantly  m  Argentina,  it  is  reasonable  to 
assume  that  the  drought  is  broken,  that  good  crops  of  wheat  and  maize 
will  follow,  and  that,  for  a  time  at  least,  ships  will  reach  Argentma 
heavily  freighted  with  new  immigrants  to  till  the  soil.  Practically  all 
of  these  immigrants  are  from  southeastern  Europe.  Danes,  Germans, 
English,  or  Dutch  are  not  coining  now  to  Argentina  to  any  great  extent. 

The  greatness  of  Argentina  comes  from  three  causes: 

Her  really  marvelous  soil  and  the  alluvial  deposits  of  an  enormous 
area  overflowed  in  prehistoric  times  by  the  Rio  de  la  Plata. 

The  very  great  ease  of  tillage  in  a  land  where  one  can  plow  nearly 
every  day  in  the  year,  never  finding  frozen  earth,  seldom  earth  too 
wet  to  plow,  and  free  from  stick,  pebble,  stone,  watercourse,  marsh, 
hill,  or  gully  for  thousands  upon  thousands  of  square  miles. 

The  advent  of  the  Itahan  people,  rather  skillful  farmers  m  their 
way,  industrious,  patient,  frugal,  accustomed  to  Uving  m  poverty  as 
a  rule,  and  content  in  Argentina  to  Uve  in  mud  huts,  unsheltered  from 
the  torrid  sun  of  summer,  unwarmed  from  the  frosts  of  winter. 

The  most  successful  estancias  as  a  rule  are  those  managed  by 
English,  New  Zealand,  or  American  managers. 

The  production  of  sheep  in  Argentina  seems  destmed  to  remain  more 
or  less  stationary,  because  the  mcrease  in  the  Patagonian  region  will 
be  offset  by  the  absorption  of  lands  for  agriculture  in  the  central 

Provinces 

The  production  of  cattle  m  Argentina,  if  prices  remain  good,  may 
well  increase,  since  on  alfalfa  pastures  cattle  rearing  is  very  profitable. 

In  the  far  north  is  a  new  cotton^owing  region  which  the  Govern- 
ment is  now  seeking  to  develop.  There  are  also  lands  in  abundance 
for  tropical  fruits,  sugar  cane,  and  other  tropical  products.  Much 
more  maize  and  wheat  may  be  expected  to  come  from  Argentma  than 

in  the  past.  ,,,...      i  i      ^i. 

It  is  worth  note  that  the  value  of  the  land  is  fixed  more  by  the 
demand  for  it  for  agricultural  use  than  for  its  productive  value  with 

live  stock 

A  gentleman  thoroughly  informed  as  to  Argentina's  pastoral  condi- 
tions says : 

The  west  part  of  the  Province  of  Buenos  Aires,  south  part  of  the  Provmce  of  Cor- 
doba and  San  Luis,  and  the  eastern  part  of  La  Pampa  will  be  the  great  beef-producing 
regions,  and  Patagonia,  the  southern  part  of  the  Province  of  Buenos  Aures,  tiie  western 
part  of  La  Pampa,  the  Provinces  of  Rio  Negro,  Chubut,  Neuquen,  and  Santa  Cruz 
will  for  a  long  tune  be  the  great  sheep  grazing  regions.  As  elsewhere  in  the  world, 
our  sheep  decrease  as  agriculture  comes  in,  and  in  recent  years  mtemal  parasites  in 
the  more  rainy  regions  and  the  increasiag  valuations  of  land  has  caused  sheep  to 
decrease  in  numbers. 

Cattle  are  increasing  wonderfully  and  will  continue  so  to  do  for 
some  tune  yet.  There  are  large  regions  now  growing  wheat  and 
maize  that  will  be  alfalfa  camps  ere  Long  and  grazed  by  cattle. 


528 


BEPORT  OF  TAEIFF  BOAED  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


CHARACTER   OF  ARGENTINE    WOOLS. 


f^ 


REPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


529 


Naturally,  the  wools  of  Argentina  vary  with  the  regions  and  breeds 
in  use.  As  a  class,  they  are  fairly  dry  wools,  sometimes  heavy  with 
sand,  but  usually  reasonably  clean.  Some  of  the  wools  most  sent  to 
America  are  those  of  tho  crossbred  types  coming  from  Entre  Kios. 
There  are  fairly  clean,  light  wools.  Always  the  light  shrinking  wools 
are  chosen  for  American  use. 

The  merino  first  came  to  improve  the  half-wild  criollo,  or  native 
stock.  At  one  time  the  merino  was  practically  the  sole  sheep  in 
Argentina.  Then  came  the  day  of  the  Lincoln  and  Romney  Marsh 
rams,  and  with  them  the  terms  "half  blood"  and  ''quarter  blood." 
The  terms  in  use  were,  for  first  cross,  **  merino  cross.  With  second 
cross  and  tliree-quarters  of  Lincoln  blood,  the  wool  was  termed 
"half  blood."  Another  cross  of  Lincoln  brought  the  wool  to  three- 
quarters  bred,  then  "long  and  lofty,"  and  then  "lofty  and  lustrous," 
which  are  those  of  the  nearly  pure  Lincoln  blood. 

The  introduction  of  other  breeds  has  varied  types,  but  has  not 
changed  the  nomenclature.  These  are  as  follows,  according  to  a 
gentleman  who  is  considered  a  high  authority  on  Argentine  sheep 
and  wools: 

1.  Mestizo,  i.  e.,  merino.  Originally  a  term  applied  to  descendants 
of  the  old  criollo  sheep,  crossed  with  merino.  Now  the  term  is 
applied  to  the  merino.    The  old  mestizos  are  extinct. 

2.  Fine  cross.  Mestizo  wool,  with  an  infusion  of  lonffwool  tvpe  in 
it.    Locks  serrated  and  dense.  ^^ 

3.  Medium  cross.  The  type  midway  between  the  merino  and  the 
longwools.     Not  a  lustrous  wool.     Down  fleeces  come  in  this  category. 

4.  Strong  cross  (cruza  gruesa).  A  loftier  and  coarser  wool  than  No. 
3,  but  yet  without  luster.  A  plain  combing  wool.  It  forms  the 
bulk  of  wools  of  to-day. 

5.  Lincoln  (or  Romney).  This  covers  wools  of  a  definite  lofty  and 
lustrous  type,  including  all  fleeces  of  white-face  breeds,  allied  to  tho 
Lincolns. 

6.  Ram's  wool  (Lano  do  Padre).  It  is  sometunes  the  custom  to 
separate  and  sell  separately  the  heavy  rams'  fleeces. 

7.  Lamb's  wool.  Wool  from  lambs  shorn  when  3  to  5  months  old. 
Fleeces  not  tied,  but  marketed  loose. 

8.  Bellies  and  pieces. 

9.  Criollo  wool.  Tliis  is  nearly  extinct.  It  is  long,  coarse,  heavy, 
lustrous,  and  is  of  use  in  carpet  and  mattress  making, 

SHEEP  BREEDING  AT  THE  STUD  FARMS  IN  ARGENTINA. 

^  There  is  splendid  enterprise  in  Argentina  in  the  matter  of  getting 
sires  for  use  in  all  breeding  operations.  The  class  of  bulls  in  use 
with  the  herds  of  cattle  is  usually  very  good,  much  better  than  one 
finds  in  use  in  the  United  States.  Good  stallions  are  used  in  horse 
breeding,  and  on  the  sheep  farms  it  is  rare  that  mf erior  rams  are  seen, 
especiaSy  on  weU-managed  estancias. 

As  a  rule,  the  rams  are  largely  bred  on  the  estancia  where  they  are 
to  be  used,  though  usually  a  certain  number  will  be  bought  each  year 
in  order  to  bring  in  fresh  blood.     There  are  great  estancias  devoted 


to  the  production  of  flock  rams,  and  these  are  among  the  greatest 
establishments  of  the  kind  in  the  world. 

It  is  not  uncommon  to  find  on  these  estancias  as  many  as  10,000 
pure-bred  ewes  of  wonderful  character,  bred  to  rams  of  high  class, 
selected  with  the  greatest  thought  and  care  and  new  blood  brought 
in  at  almost  any  cost  to  keep  the  quality  at  top  notch. 

Many  of  these  estabhshments  are  very  old.     1  he  Olivers  s  d  ate  their 

gure-bred  sheep  stud  back  to  1835,  when  they  imported  their  first 
lambouillets. 

The  tjpe  of  Rambouillet  bred  here  is  a  splendid  one  from  tho 
standpoint  of  wool  production,  though  inferior  to  North  American 
Rambouillets  in  pomt  of  mutton  conformation.  Argentine  Ram- 
bouillets  excel  in  density  of  fleece.  There  are  also  great  cabanas,  or 
stud  flocks,  of  Lincoln  sheep.  In  fact,  the  Lincoln  is  now  so  much  in 
favor  that  the  Rambouillet  stud  flocks  are  sometimes  kept  at  a  real 
loss  at  the  present  time,  since  the  demand  is  mostly  for  Lincoln  rams. 
There  are  also  stud  flocks  of  Romneys,  and  these  are  as  good  as  they 
can  be  made.  ' 

The  conditions  in  Argentina  for  producing  good  pure-bred  sheep 
are  better  than  are  found  in  the  United  States.  There  is  compara- 
tively little  loss  from  parasitic  disease.  There  is  little  need  of  shelter 
from  storm,  though  on  the  cabanas  the  rams  are  quite  generally  put 
in  sheds,  as  in  the  United  States,  and  fed  green  food,  alfalfa,  and  grain. 
While  being  fitted  for  shows,  this  is  especially  true.  Lambing  is  not 
difficult  in  Argentina,  as  the  weather  is  almost  uniformly  good.  With 
a  little  forethought  there  is  always  plenty  of  feed. 

There  are  very  many  of  the  splendid  places  where  breeding  flocks 
of  pure-bred  sheep  are  kept.  They  are  owned  by  rich,  enterprising, 
ana  pubUc-spirited  men,  native  Argentinians  of  Spanish  descent,  for 
the  most  part,  and  are  princely  in  their  fittings  and  appointments. 
These  places  supply  constant  streams  of  pure  blood  that  flow  out  to 
fertihze  the  flocks  of  all  of  Argentina. 

The  prices  received  for  the  pure-bred  rams  are  moderate — from 
$10  to  $100  or  more  gold.  Usually,  good  rams  are  to  be  had  for 
$20  each.  The  breeders  for  their  stud  flocks  not  infrequently  expend 
very  large  sums  for  flock  headers.  As  much  as  $6,000  has  been  paid 
for  one  Lincoln  ram. 

There  are  in  Buenos  Aires  several  finely  appomted  stables  where 
sheep  are  consigned,  kept  on  exhibition,  and  sold  from  time  to  time. 
These  places,  curiouslv  enough,  are  on  the  principal  streets  in  tho 
city  and  in  the  very  heart  of  its  most  fashionable  part.  They  are 
fine  places,  in  beautiful  order,  and  to  walk  through  one  is  as  interest- 
ing as  to  visit  an  English  Royal  Show  or  the  Chicago  International 
Exposition,  save  that  the  exliibits  are  not  so  extensive. 

WHAT  AN   ESTANCIA   IS   LIKE. 

Wliile  this  has  Httle  bearing  on  the  subject,  economically  considered, 
yet  it  may  be  mteresting  to  obtain  a  general  idea  of  the  nature  of  an 
Argentine  camp.  First,  the  name  ''camp,"  in  universal  use,  means 
the  estancia,  or  ranch;  and  in  general  it  means  the  pastoral  regions 
in  distinctiveness  from  the  farms  or  ''colonias."  The  railway  that 
takes  one  to  the  camp  is  a  solidly  constructed  affair,  after  the  EngHsh 
pattern,  but  with  cars  much  like  those  used  in  the  United  States. 


32080°— II.  Doc.  342.  62-2,  vol  1- 


530 


REPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


EEP©ET  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


531 


The  t-ains  nm  at  intervals;  on  some  lines  daily,  and  on  others  two  or 
three  times  a  week.  They  generally  proceed  slowly,  and  the  stops  at 
stations  are  usually  long.  One  get«  a  fair  general  idea  of  the  country- 
and  its  ways  from  the  train,  as  it  usually  runs  through  the  pasture 
land.  In  nearly  aM  the  region,  it  is  astonisliingly  leyel  and  would  be 
monotonous  as  a  lansdcape  if  one  were  not  keenly  interested  m  tlie 
life  outside.  The  fields  are  fenced  into  very  large  potreros,  or  pas- 
tures, of,  say,  from  100  to  6,000  acres  each.  The  cattle,  sheep,  and 
horses  usually  graze  in  the  same  pastures. 

Tlie  fences  are  of  wire  and  well  built  at  great  cost,  for,  m  a  coun- 
try absolutely  treeless,  all  wood  must  be  brought  from  the  northern 
forests.  The  posts  are  mostly  of  quebracho,  or  some  other  wood,  as 
hard  and  heavy  almost  as  stone,  and  as  durable.  The  wires  pass 
through  the  posts  instead  of  being  stapled.  They  are  kept  perfectly 
taut  and  do  not  rust.  The  wires  are  also  run  through  the  upright 
sticks  or  stays  that  space  them  the  proper  distance  apart,  since  the 
posts  are  verv  far  one  from  the  other.  There  may  be  one  barbed 
wire,  no  more*.  The  gates  are  wide  and  strong,  and  so  hung  that  they 
seldom  drag  the  ground.  .     o       -i 

Alighting  from  the  train,  one  sees  a  vdlage  of  houses  in  bpanisii 
stvle,  usually  with  unpaved  streets.  Drivmg  out  of  the  village  one 
finds,  if  it  has  been  a  wet  time,  heavy  roads,  unimproved  by  man; 
if  a  drv  time,  he  is  enveloped  in  clouds  of  dust.  The  roads  are  very 
wide  and  are  commonly  treeless  along  their  length,  though  now  and 
then  one  will  pass  an  estancia  where  trees  have  been  planted  w^th  great 
care  and  protected  so  well  that  they  are  making  glorious  growth. 
The  chinabeixy  tree  of  our  South  is  the  favorite  tree,  since  it  is  not 
devoured  by  loc^ists.     Neitt  comes  the  Eucalyptus  globulus  so  much 

seen  in  California.  ,       .  ,  i.  .,         -i      tt 

As  one  drives  along,  he  is  amazed  at  the  richness  of  the  soil.  He 
looks  in  vain  for  a  poor  spot.  There  is  never  a  knoll  or  hillock  or 
knob  of  poor  earth.  All  is  rich,  thougli  in  some  low  places  alkalies  may 
have  come  to  the  surface,  rendering  the  land  unproductive.  One  is 
also  astonislied  to  drive  in  some  places  mile  after  nnle  and  see  no  brook 
or  creek  or  river,  and  at  last  learns  that  he  can,  m  fact,  drive  a  hun- 
dred miles  in  some  parts  without  encountering  one  permanent  water 
course.  Nor  will  there  be  ponds  or  pools,  save  in  times  of  unusual 
rain,  when  shallow  pools  will  be  seen.  American  wmdmiils  stand  m 
the  fields,  and  from  them  radiate  long  lines  of  galvanized  iron  troughs 
for  the  sheep  and  cattle.  Approaching  the  headquarters  of  the 
estancia,  there  is  generally  an  avenue  of  fine  trees  planted  m  severa 
lines,  and  about  the  house  much  beauty  of  planting  m  groves  and 
wardens  and  orchards.  .  . 

Perhaps  there  may  l>e  few  buildings  on  the  estancia  aside  from  the 
rather  large  dwelhng  of  the  manager,  an  office  for  the  bookkeeper,  a 
coach  house  and  harness  liouse  and  a  shearing  shed.  There  may  be 
also  sheds  for  sheltering  and  feeding  rams  and  choice  e\yc^.  Usually 
such  accommodations  are  very  limited.  There  are  modest  dwelhngs 
for  the  peons,  or  laborers,  and  in  each  large  pasture  there  will  prob- 
ably be  a  hut  or  small  house  for  the  peons  whose  work  is  to  look  alter 
the  fences  and  animals  in  that  especial  pasture. 

There  may  be  implements  of  a^jriculture,  but  they  are  nrobabiy 
rather  unimportant  to  the  operation  of  the  place.  The  sheep  are 
scattered  about  in  the  various  pastures  where  they  crop  the  grasses 


and  wild  clovers.  They  are  almost  never  fed.  Sometimes  oats  are 
sown  in  the  fall  for  winter  grazing  and  sometimes,  though  most  rarely, 
grasses  and  alfalfa  are  sown  for  their  grazing.  Cultivated  grasses 
perish  in  the  droughts.     Alfalfa  is  destroyed  by  too  close  grazing  of 

tlie  flocks. 

Naturally,  it  follows  that  the  labor  cost  of  managmg  the  estancia 
is  very  small.  There  is  not  a  wolf  to  be  found,  few  foxes,  except  in 
the  desert  lands  of  the  south,  and  usually  the  sheep  are  quite  undis- 
turbed by  predatory  animals.  Owing  to  the  preyading  dry  weather, 
intestinal  worms  are  of  rare  occurrence,  except  in  marshy  districts 
during  times  of  unusual  rains.  Then  the  trouble  is  not  so  serious  as 
in  the  com  belt  of  the  United  States. 

Tlie  land  is  covered  thickly,  in  their  season,  with  bur  clovers,  such 
as  grow  along  the  coast  of  California.  Later,  the  burs  from  these 
are  somewhat  troublesome  in  the  wool.  If  there  has  been  rain, 
various  small  grasses  spring  up  from  seed  and  the  pastures  are  a 
lovely  sight.  If  there  has  been  long  drought,  the  pastures  are  so  bare 
one  marvels  that  tlie  sheep  should  survive  at  all. 

In  times  of  prolonged  droudit  the  owners  do  not  put  rams  with  the 
ewes,  preferring  to  lose  a  lamb  crop  rather  than  to  yet  further  weaken 
and  perhaps  destroy  the  mother  stock.  With  enough  rain,  the 
grasses  and  clovers  will  half  hide  the  sheep.  Unhappily,  there  is 
absolutely  no  way  to  guess  whether  there  will  or  will  not  be  rain,  nor 
to  judge  of  when  it  will  come.  High  winds  rapidly  dissipate  moisture. 
Ongmally,  the  camp  was  covered  with  coarse  grasses  that  grew  as 
high  as  a  man's  head,  or  higher.  These  grasses  have  been  destroyed 
by  plowing  the  land,  for  they  were  not  nutritious  nor  eaten  by  animals 
unless  there  was  nothing  else  for  them. 

On  the  estancias  chiefly  devoted  to  sheep  the  cattle  are  usually  not 
very  profitable,  since  the  sheep  eat  out  the  better  part  of  the  pasture, 
leaving  for  the  cattle  the  poorer,  harder,  woodier  parts.  It  is  to 
consume  this  coarse  stuff  that  the  cattle  are  kept. 

Tliis  is  the  work  of  the  estancia.  The  lambs  will  be  born  often  in 
late  fall,  in  May,  June,  or  in  the  winter  month  of  July.  Or  they  may 
be  born  in  the  spring,  say,  in  August.  It  is  recognized  that  early 
lambs  thrive  best.  Prudent  managers  reserve  pastures  for  lambing 
ewes,  so  that  they  may  find  enough  food  to  furnish  plenty  of  milk. 
Always  the  lambing  is  in  the  open  field.  Very  good  percentages  of 
lambs  are  sometimes  secured.  This  may  be  as  high  as  100  per  cent, 
though  85  per  cent  is  considered  a  good  increase  from  the  ewe  flock. 

Shearing  comes  in  October,  November,  and  December.  Machines 
are  in  common  use  now  throughout  the  Republic,  though  some  yet 
use  the  hand  shears.  Often  the  wool  is  baled  on  the  estancia  and 
sent  direct  to  Europe.  More  commonly  it  is  sent  to  the  great  wool 
market  of  Buepos  Aires,  where  it  is  assorted  and  sold  for  export. 

Dipping  goes  on  more  or  less  the  year  around.  There  are  few  if 
any  neighborhoods  exempt  from  scab.  Should  a  man  free  his  own 
flock,  he  is  apt  to  have  a  neighbor  with  scabby  sheep,  and  infection 
is  easy.     Usually  four  dippings  per  year  are  given. 

In  ordinary  tunes  there  is  little  work  to  be  done  with  the  sheep. 
The  fences  are  built  so  well  that  animals  do  not  break  out  or  in. 
There  is  the  least  possible  repair  work  to  be  done.  Once  an  estancia 
is  well  equipped  with  fences,  gates,  corrals,  and  dip,  the  maintaining 
of  it  is  of  the  lowest  possible  cost. 


532 


KEPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOABD  027   SCHEDULE  K. 


The  slieplierds  manage  the  sheep  always  from  hoi-seback.  The 
shepherds  are  usually  native  Arj-entme  peons,  the  result  of  a  mixture 
of  Spanish  and  Indian  blood,  fairly  faithful  and  efficient  when  well 
selected  and  well  supervised.  On  many  estanciaa  wethers  are  kept 
until  3  or  4  years  old,  and  then  sent  to  the  freezing  works. 

The  agent  of  the  Tariff  Board  studied  diligently  to  see  what  could 
be  learned  in  Argentina  that  would  aid  North  American  flock  masters. 
Briefly,  here  are  the  few  tlungs  that  seem  applicable  to  their  condi- 
tions:* 

The  use  of  Eomney  rams  on  the  western  range  ewes  should  result 
weU,  as  it  has  in  Argentina.  The  Romney  is  a  very  hardy,  easily 
fattened  sheep,  and  has  a  good  wool,  made  better  by  crossing  with 

the  merino.  .  i    .  xi         • 

Study  of  Argentine  conditions  convinces  one  that  tnere  is  more 

profit  in  crossbred  sheep  than  in  those  of  pure  breeding. 

Study  of  Argentina  convinces  one  that  while  much  has  been  done 

to  improve  North  American  breeds  of  cattle  and  sheep,  the  general 

level  of  Argentine  flocks  and  herds  is  quite  as  high  as  there,  and 

perhaps  hi^er.  ^  .         ,  .  ,       ,  ^i  x 

Study  of  sheep  farming  in  .irgentma  plainly  shows  the  great 
advantage  that  accrues  to  the  sheep  breeder  who  owns  or  leases  his 
land.  Control  of  land  gives  opportunity  for  fencmg,  puttmg  m  wells 
and  dams  for  watering  the  stock,  prevents  overstocking,  and  enables 
the  rancher  to  settle  down  to  a  careful  and  continuous  course  of  sheep 
breeding,  looldng  always  aliead  to  the  production  of  the  best  kmds 
of  wool  and  the  most  mutton. 

"imUGFAY. 

Uruguay,  though  so  near  Argentina,  is  a  land  of  widely  di^erent 
character.^  The  Argentine  country  is  mostly  flat,  alluvial  land,  in 
Uruguay  one  fmds  roUing,  rocky,  ridges,  not  very  high,  sometimeg 
tree  crowned.  The  climates  are  much  the  same,  both  being, 
unhappily,  subject  to  drought.  Uruguay  is  in  the  w^m  tem- 
perate latitudes,  and  oranges  grow  over  practically  all  of  tiie  Kepubiic. 
Much  less  agriculture  is  practiced  in  Uruguay  than  in  Argentma,  for 
two  reasons:  The  soil  is  jiot  usually  so  weU  adapted  to  the  plow- 
there  are  regions  of  exceptional  value  for  agriculture— and  there  has 
not  been  the  great  immigration  to  Uruguay  that  has  been  seen  m 
Arcentina.  It  is  a  land  devoted  almo'st  sohdly  to  sheep  and  cattle 
fed  on  native  pastures.  Uruguay  is  deficient  m  railway  hnes,  as 
compared  with  Argentma,  though  there  are  new  hnes  now  under 

construction.  .  r    a    +1  •  «   fi  «* 

On  approaching  an  Uruguayan  estaneia,  the  hrst  tlung  tnat 
impresses  the  stranger  is  the  excellence  of  the  fences^  Ihese  are  of 
wire,  not  barbed,  very  tightly  stretched,  and  usuaUy  of  large  size. 
The  posts  are  commonly  40  feet  or  more  apart.  Ordmanly,  posts 
are  sliipped  by  rail  from  the  northern  forests,  and  more  rarely  cut 
from  neighboring  tracts  of  small  timber.  They  are  usually  crooked 
posts  of  very  hard  and  durable  wood,  the  ^'namdebay  and  que- 
bracho woods  being  most  used.  Between  the  posts  are  wooden 
stays  to  keep  the  wires  properly  spaced  to  prevent  the  sheep  creeping 
through  between  them.  Woven  wire,  such  as  is  used  in  North 
America,  is  not  in  use  here.    The  wires  are  seldom  stapled  to  the 


REPORT  OF   TARIFF   BOARD   ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


533 


posts,  but  are  put  through  holes  in  the  wood,  both  through  the  main 
posts  and  the  intermediate  stays.  Wire  of  English  and  German 
manufacture  is  used,  and  it  seldom  rusts.  The  gates  are  com- 
monly very  strong  and  well  hung.  There  are  few  gates  in  North 
America  as  good  as  one  finds  in  common  use  in  South  America.  It 
is  the  rarest  tiling  to  find  one  sagging  or  broken.  Quite  generally 
tlie  gates  are  kept  locked  to  prevent  mischievous  or  careless  people 
leaving  them  open. 

The  roads  are  very  wide,  often  100  meters  (300  feet)  and  sometimes 
widening  out  to  several  times  that  width  in  order  to  allow  grazing 
places  for  traveUng  flocks  and  herds.  The  estancieros,  owning  the 
land  thus  left  outside  of  his  pastures,  is  in  the  habit  of  charging  a  small 
fee  for  animals  stopping  there  to  rest  and  graze. 

The  roads  in  Uruguay  are  commonly  very  good,  though  as  a  rule 
little  has  been  done  to  make  them  so.  The  nature  of  the  earth 
makes  it  easy  to  have  pod  roads,  and  the  Government  is  quite 
energetic  in  building  needed  bridges  and  approaches. 

The  country  undulates  without  being  actually  hilly.  Innumer- 
able ledges  of  rock  protrude  along  the  summits  of  the  ridges,  or 
sometimes  on  the  slopes,  or  even  on  the  lowlands.  On  tlie  high 
parts  are  often  wide  level  areas,  free  from  stone  and  with  good  depth 
of  soil.  The  rocks  are  often  granites ;  sometimes  sandstones.  Some- 
times layers  of  soft  hmestone  are  fou^id — a  chalky  substance  called 
*Hosca."  This  material  seems  to  have  been  a  late  deposit,  probably 
during  some  submergence  of  the  land  beneath  the  sea.  It  is  usually 
composed  of  tliis  soft  hmestone,  but  not  always  so.  The  word 
*'tosca"  is  much  used  in  South  America  to  denote  a  hard  substance 
in  the  subsoil.  This  material  may  some  day  be  used  with  benefit 
on  a  very  large  area  of  the  pasture  land,  which  in  its  natural  state 
is  nearlv*^without  carbonate  of  hme. 

The  soil  is  almost  uniformly  black  and  full  of  humus.  It  is  rich, 
usually,  in  nitrogen,  and  said  to  be  poor  in  phosphorus  and  bone 
material.  It  is  much  improved  by  use  of  bone  meal,  which  some 
estancieros  have  begun  to  use  in  connection  with  their  agricultural 
attempts.  As  a  rule  it  is  not  well  adapted  to  the  plow.  The  slopes 
are  apt  to  erode  when  plowed,  and  there  is  much  stony,  rocky  land. 
There  are,  however,  wide  areas  well  fitted  for  agriculture.  Nearly 
every  estaneia  will  have  on  it  a  considerable  area  that  is  adapted  to 
the  plow,  though  on  many  estancias  the  plow  is  httle,  if  any,  in  use. 

The  soil  is  not  so  absorbent  of  moisture  as  are  the  soils  of  alluvial 
Argentina.  There  are  very  wide  areas  of  Argentina,  particularly  in 
the  Provinces  of  Buenos  Aires,  Cordoba,  Pampa  Central,  and  Santa 
Fe  that  are  nearly  without  any  streams,  having  practically  no  run-off 
of  water  whatever,  all  being  absorbed  by  the  soil.  In  Uruguay,  owing 
to  the  greater  compactness  of  the  soil  and  its  greater  slope,  streams 
abound  and  springs  are  not  uncommon. 

The  whole  country  is  covered  with  native  grasses  cf  a  perennial 
character.  There  are  many  species  represented.  Some  are  coarse 
and  unfit  for  sheep,  httle  hked  by  cattle,  and,  except  in  time  of 
drought,  httle  eaten.  Others  are  short,  fine  grasses,  very  good  mdeed. 
There  are  also  in  many  parts  good  growths  of  wild  native  clovers. 
The  ' '  bur  clovers  "  and  the  very  fattening  aLfilaria  are  seen  to  a  greater 
or  less  extent.  In  native  grasses,  Uruguay  is  more  richly  supplied 
than  is  Argentina,  which  is  naturally  covered  with  very  coarse  and 


534 


BEPORT  OF   TARIFF   BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


hard  grasses.  In  Aigeiitina  men  plow  to  kill  the  hard  grasses,  when 
the  finer  sorts  come  in  of  their  own  accord.  Most  grasses  are  annual 
in  Argentina.  In  Uruguay  most  grasses  are  perennial,  and  the  plow 
injures  the  pastures,  some  say  irreparably. 

An  estancia  in  Uruguay  may  be  described  thus: 

Driving  over  a  wide  plain,  one  sees  far  in  advance  a  grove,  or  maybe 
a  small  forest,  of  towering  trees.  Within  these  trees  will  be  found 
the  headquarters  of  the  estancia.  At  the  gate  or  near  it  will  be  a 
small  house,  maybe  of  brick  or  of  adobe,  with  roof  very  often  of 
thatch.  This  is  the  home  of  one  of  the  puesteros,  or  pasture  tenders. 
It  is  his  dutv  to  look  after  one  of  the  large  potreros,  or  pastures  and 
to  keep  the  gate.  From  him  one  secures  a  key  which  unlocks  the 
gate   and   other  gates  that  may  intervene  between  his  house  and 

headquarters.  .         ,  ,  ^  n  i. 

Entering  the  pasture  and  driving  through,  one  folJows  a  cart 
track  or,  maybe,  an  avenue  of  eucah-pti.  The  pasture  may  have 
100  acres  or  possibly  5,000  acres.  Well-managed  estancias  make 
rather  small  inclosures,  the  better  to  arrange  their  stock— from  200 
to  500  acres  in  the  main  pastures,  with  smaller  paddocks  of  from 
40  to  100  acres,  more  or  less,  near  the  headquarters. 

Even  in  winter,  if  the  soil  is  moist,  the  grass  wiU  be  green,  though 
it  may  be  unable  to  make  growth  because  of  the  cold  nights  and 
cool  davs.  The  winter  climate  of  Uruguay  is  delightful  if  one  has  a 
fireside"  where  he  can  retreat  at  nightfall.  The  days  are  usually 
sumiy  and  cool  and  more  or  less  bloom  and  greenness  are  seen  through- 
out the -winter.  ,^  xT^  1    .1        .  u 

The  sheep  are  usually  of  uniform  type.  Wiiile  there  is  some  scab 
apparent  in  Uruguay,  yet  on  some  estancias  there  is  none  seen.  The 
sheep  are  loose  in  thc"^  pastures  and  scattered  all  over  them,  unac- 
compan'cd  by  any  herder,  as  would  be  necessary  on  ranches  m 
Nortii  America.  The  reason  no  herder  is  seen  is  that  in  Uru- 
guay there  are  no  wild  animals  to  destroy  sheep,  except  the  very 
rare  puma.  Possibly  in  the  far  north  a  jaguar  at  rare  mtei-vals  may 
be  found  and  some  foxes  that  may  destroy  lambs.  * 

The  sheep  w^ill  be  more  or  less  classified  in  the  pastures  accordmg 
to  ages  and^sexes.  There  are  many  bands  of  wethers,  kept  for  their 
wool.  Usually  the  sheep  are  in  good  condition.  Even  m  times  of 
drought  they  do  not  suffer  as  do  the  cattle,  since  they  bite  closer  and 
are  quicker  to  get  the  sweet,  short  grass.  The  cattle,  if  it  has  been 
a  hard  year,  may  be  quite  thin  or  even  dying.  One  may  at  first  ask 
why  any  cattle  at  all  are  kept,  but  he  will  be  told  that  it  is  so  that 
both  classes  of  grass  maybe  consumed— the  liard  coarse  grasses  and 
the  finer  as  well.  Durmg  the  year  1910-11  losses  of  cattle  from 
starvation  were  very  heavy  in  Urugua\\ 

Few  or  no  mndmills  are  seen.  Tliere  are  here  and  there  little 
streams  or  sprmgs  of  water,  usually  ver}^  pure  and  good.  Tins  is  m 
striking  contrast  with  Argentina,  where  the  windmill  is  the  most 
common  adornment  of  the  pasture.  ,     ,    .,  i-         t  xu 

From  near  by  the  estancia  headquarters  the  buildmgs  gleam  white 
through  the  trees.  Often  there  will  be  many  buildings,  almost  like  a 
small  village.  There  are  the  galpones,  or  bams  one  for  shearing, 
another  possibly  for  storing  the  wool;  stables  for  horses  and  perhaps 
for  cattle;  small  houses  for  the  pe(ms,  or  laborers,  and  last  the  house 
of  the  estanciero  himself,  wliich  may  be  a  large,  pretentious  aliair, 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  01^  SCHEDULE  K. 


535 


although  usually  a  modest,  rambling,  roomy,  one-story  building  of 
brick,  plastered  on  the  outside,  roofed  with  tiles,  as  a  rule,  and  sur- 
rounded with  a  garden  in  which  one  finds  oranges,  peaches,  apricots, 
fi^s,  plums,  roses,  flowers,  and  back  of  the  house  a  beautifully  kept 
kitchen  garden.  These  places  are  veritable  oases  and  show  what 
Uruguay  might  become  imder  agricidture,  given  skilled  labor,  under 
rather  small  holdings. 

The  number  of  peons,  or  laborers,  required  on  these  estancias  varies 
somewhat,  but  in  general  no  very  gieat  number  is  needed.  On  one 
estancia  raising  pure-bred  sheep  5  men  care  for  6,000  head.  Another 
uses  5  men  to  care  for  14,500;  another  has  4  men  for  11,000;  another 
6  men  for  7,500;  another  30  men  for  55,000  sheep;  and  yet  another 
15  men  for  19,000  sheep,  or  an  average  of  about  1,750  sheep  per  man. 
Naturally  it  is  not  found  that  the  lowest  numbers  of  peons  are  seen 
on  the  best  managed  estancias,  though  the  number  does  not  vaiy 
so  very  much  in  these  schedules  secured. 

The  work  of  the  estancia  is  somewhat  like  this :  In  ordinary  weather 
there  is  little  or  nothing  to  do  to  the  sheep.  Then  the  men  employ 
themselves  in  perfecting  the  fences,  repairing  the  houses,  occasionally 
getting  up  the  sheep  for  assorting  or  for  culling  out  various  classes,  or 
work  with  the  cattle,  of  which  there  are  always  a  number  on  the  place. 
The  fences  are  carefully  inspected  at  short  intervals,  and  always  there 
is  a  rigid  scrutiny  of  every  sheep  for  scab. 

As  there  is  absolutely  nothing  fed  to  the  sheep  except  the  native 
growth  of  grasses  it  will  be  seen  that  there  is  no  labor  cost  for  feeding 
them.  There  are  many  days  when  the  peons  employ  themselves  viith 
a  simple  inspection  of  fences  and  flocks. 

Lambmg  oegins  in  April,  May,  or  June,  which  are  months  corre- 
sponding to  our  North  American  early  winter.  There  should  then  be 
a  certain  amount  of  green  grass,  and  lambs  bom  then  get  a  good  start 
during  winter  and  grow  rapidly  in  August  and  September,  when 
the  real  spring  comes,  with  pretty  certain  growth  or  grass.  Other 
estancieros  have  all  the  lamos  bom  in  August  and  September,  or, 
sometimes,  as  late  as  October,  though  it  is  recognized  tliat  the  late- 
born  lambs  do  not  tlirive  as  do  the  early  bom  ones. 

Little  extra  labor  is  given  at  lambing  time,  nor  is  much  needed. 
The  ewes  are  scattered  at  will  over  the  pastm'es  and  are  often  put  in 
especially  sheltered  places  to  bear  their  lambs,  and,  on  Vv'cll-managed 
places,  on  pastures  that  have  been  reserved  especialh"  for  this  pur- 
pose. Fairly  good  lambings  are  reported,  varying  according  to  breeds 
and  seasons. 

Dipping  follows  shearing,  and  is  repeated  usually  four  or  five 
times  a  year.  Shearing  is  in  October  and  November^  finishing  with 
the  fall-born  lambs,  wmch  are  shorn  in  December.  Shearing  is  quite 
generally  done  with  machines,  though  not  always.  On  some  estancias 
the  peons  there  resident  do  all  the  shearing  ,  tliough  the  usual  custom 
is  to  employ  traveling  shearers,  as  is  the  custom  in  the  United  States. 
The  cost  of  shearing  includes  food  for  the  men. 

After  shearing  the  treatment  of  the  wool  varies  according  to  the 
estancia  and  its  practice.  Some  estancieros  carefully  assort  their 
fleeces  and  bale  their  wool  at  the  estancia,  sending  it  direct  to  Eng- 
land to  be  sold.  One  prominent  grower  marks  each  bale,  '^Free  from 
scab,  stain,  or  dip."     He  has  no  scab,  so  does  not  dip  his  sheep.     At 


536 


BEPORT   OF   TABIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


til©  wool  sales  his  wool  brings  always  a  high  pnco  m  consequeneo 
of  its  cleanness  and  goochiess.  Other  and  more  numerous  estancieros 
send  their  wools  to  commission  houses  m  Montevideo,  where  it  is 
classified,  baled,  and  exported.  Sometimes  the  wool  is  sold  at  Mon- 
tevideo; again  it  is  sold  in  Europe.  This  year  Urugiiavan  wools 
brought  witldn  a  few  cents  of  as  much  as  the  wools  of  the  Umted 
States,  when  Uruguay  estancieros  sold  their  entire  product  for  as 
much  as  17  cents  per  pound.  .  .    ,      ,    t       .1        -i  j 

After  shearing  and  dipping  the  wool  is  hauled  to  the  railways  and 
sent  to  market.  The  haid  may  be  short  or  may  be  as  much  as  forty 
or  more  miles,  as  Uruguay  is  not  yet  well  provided  with  railways. 

Then  follows  a  long  period  of  routine  work,  such  as  seeing  after 
fences,  building  new  ones,  watching  with  keen  eyes  for  reappearance 
of  scab,  that  dreaded  enemy  of  South  Amencan  flocks.  Ihe  peons, 
when  well  superintended  bv  one  who  understands  them,  are  willing 
and  faithful.  The  country  is  beautiful;  the  climate  one  of  the  best 
in  the  world,  although  somewhat  dry;  and  the  life  of  the  Uruguayan 
estanciero  would  be  most  happr  were  it  not  for  a  few  disaOTeeable 
things  that  should  be  mentioned.  First,  we  place  the  disease, 
scab.  This  is  almost  everywhere  present.  There  are  but  few 
estancias  in  Uruguay  absolutely  without  scab  in  their  flocks.  Itie 
reason  for  the  continuance  of  scab  seems  to  be  due  to  several  causes : 
First,  the  estancieros  do  not  do  double  dipping.  They  dip  three  or 
four  or  more  times  in  a  year,  but  allow  intervals  of  months  between. 
Thus  the  eggs  of  the  scab  insect  hatch  and  propagation  begins 
between  the  dippings.  Then  there  is  no  simultaneous  pipping. 
One  estanciero  will  dip  at  a  later  date  than  his  neighbor;  and 
even  were  he  to  clean  thoroughly  his  own  flock  his  neighbor  very 
likely  would  not  clean  his,  and  scabby  sheep  rubbing  against  the 
fence  and  posts  convey  infection.  .       .    ,        1.      tt 

The  second  difficulty  in  the  way  of  the  estanciero  is  drought.  Un- 
happily,  the  coast  of  South  Amenca,  south  of  Brazil,  has  no  certain 
cUmate.  Rains  may  be  abundant  and  seasons  normal ;  then  all  goes 
well.  At  other  times  rains  will  be  withheld  for  long  periods.  There 
will  be  whole  series  of  yeai-s  of  drought ;  not  of  complete  absence  of 
rain,  but  of  hght  rainfall.  The  result  is  that  at  last  every  vestige  of 
grass  is  eaten,  even  to  the  coarse,  woody  grasses,  and  cattle  die  on 
every  hand.  Sheep  Hve  longer  than  cattle,  but  many  lambs  and  old 
ewes  wiU  be  lost.  Finally,  the  drought  mil  be  broken  and  the  grasses 
spring  up  as  if  by  magic,  and  sheep  rapidly  take  on  flesh;  the  weak- 
lings have  died  off  and  the  fittest  only  survive.  Cattle  recuperate 
more  slowly,  and  may  die  for  sometime  after  the  rams  come, 
but  they,  too,  after  a  time,  regain  their  strength  and  flesh. 
Droughts  in  Uruguay  are  possibly  less  severe  than  m  Argentina, 
though  there  is  probably  httle  difference  in  tlus  respect. 
The  third  difficulty  to  consider  is  the  locust.  Tins  large  insect 
comes  in  swarms  from  the  north,  settles  over  the  lands, 
strips  the  trees  of  their  leaves,  gardens  of  their  plants,  orchards  of 
their  fruit;  they  consume  the  grass  and  the  very  weeds.  There  are 
few  species  of  trees  and  plants  untouched  bj  these  destroyers,  lliey 
come  at  irregular  peiiods,  and  after  a  time  totafly  disappear  for 
another  period.  They  have  now  been  in  Uruguay  for  four  years. 
It  must  be  about  time  for  them  to  disappear  for  a  period  of  perhaps 
eight  years. 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


537 


The  most  dreadful  handicap  to  the  estanciero  is  the  revolution. 
Whatever  the  cause,  a  revolution  works  havoc  with  an  estancia. 
Horses  are  requisitioned  by  both  sides,  and  tlie  estancia  may  be  left 
almost  horseless.  Fences  are  cut,  and  peons  go  to  war  who  are 
needed  for  labor. 

BREEDS   OF    SIIEEP   AND    CROSSBREEDS. 

It  has  been  many  years  since  there  were  notable  numbers  of  the 
half-wild,  coarse-wooled  Criollo  sheep  in  Uruguay.  First  to  improve 
them  came  the  merinos,  both  the  Eambouillet  and  the  smaller  types. 
Many  Vermont  merinos  were  taken  there  and  did  a  considerable  part 
in  advancing  the  wool  production  of  Uruguay.  They  are  not  now 
found  here  in  large  numbers,  because  they  were  small  and  somewhat 
delicate  of  constitution.  Larger,  stronger  sheep  better  suited  the 
conditions  here. 

There  are  very  large  numbers  of  Kambouillets  in  Uruguay.  Per- 
liaps  half  of  the  sheep  of  the  country  are  of  this  breed,  pure  or  mixed. 
The  Rambouillets  of  Uruguay  are  distinct  in  type  from  those  of  North 
America,  having  very  dense  fleeces,  some  wrinkles  on  the  bodies,  less 
desirable  mutton  form,  and  less  ability  to  fatten  than  our  Kambouil- 
lets. They  are  much  seen  in  the  north.  The  German  merinos  of 
Xegretti  type  are  seen  on  the  Estancia  Tidemann,  where  there  are 
55,000  of  this  kind.  They  are  like  Kambouillets,  but  somewhat 
smaller,  with  rather  better  forms  and  carrying  a  good  class  of  fine 
M'ool. 

The  Lincoln  is  in  high  repute,  commonly  used  to  cross  on  the  Ram- 
bouillet.  Purely  bred,  the  Lincoln  does  not  thrive  here  as  it  does  in 
the  fatter  pastures  of  Argentina.  The  Romney  is  also  a  favorite. 
Its  cross  with  the  merino  makes  a  sheep  very  strong,  able  to  tope 
with  the  conditions  and  grasses,  and  fatten  well  while  bearing  a  beau- 
tiful crossbred  wool.  The  Romney  is  also  used  to  cross  on  the 
Shropshire,  giving  improvement  in  amount  and  staple  of  wool. 

The  Southdown,  Shropsliire  Down,  and  Hampshire  Down  are  aU 
present  in  Uruguay.  At  one  time  the  Shropshire  was  a  prime 
favorite,  and  many  were  imported.  To-day  it  is  out  of  favor.  The 
fleeces  are  too  light,  is  the  complaint.  The  same  is  said  of  the  other 
Downs.  They  are  rapidly  being  crossed  with  other  types  of  rams 
and  may  nearly  disappear,  unless  the  frigorificos  should  encourage 
them  by  paying  a  premium  for  their  wethers.  It  is  recognized  that 
the  Shropshire  presents  a  lamb  very  strong  and  readily  reared,  and 
that  the  ewes  do  not  so  soon  become  old  as  with  some  mutton  breeds. 
The  present  tendency  is  toward  the  infusion  of  more  and  more  of  the 
bloods  of  Lincoln  and  Romney  Marsh.  Doubtless,  sooner  or  later 
there  will  be  need  of  return  to  the  merino,  as  the  fleeces  become  too 
coarse  to  command  the  highest  prices. 

From  study  of  conditions  in  Uruguay  it  is  believed  that  the  follow- 
ing conclusions  are  warranted: 

Conditions  pastoral  in  L'ruguay  will  undergo  no  sudden  change  in 
one  way  or  another.  It  is  preeminently  a  land  of  native  grasses  and 
must  long  remain  so,  although  there  are  wide  areas  of  agricultural 
land  interspersed. 

The  agriculture  of  Uruguay  will  in  favored  parts  greatly  increase, 
and  there  the  cattle  and  sheep  will  diminish.     There  is  no  way  to 


538 


REPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  IL 


Hr 

HI' 


kcrease  tlie  output  of  beef,  mutton,  or  wool  until  men  learn  to  make 
agriculture  come  to  the  aid  of  theur  herds  and  flocks.  1  he  begmmng 
oi  this  has  only  just  been  seen.  .  .     j.      j       .x 

UruCTay  will  develop  a  greater  production  of  beef  and  mutton  as 
soon  as  the  frigoriiicos  pay  larger  prices  for  the  live  animals.  This 
will  probably  come  as  soon  as  the  Amencan  fngordico  operators  begin 
to  compete  tor  the  fat  animals. 

SOME   COXCLUSIOXS. 

Careful  study  of  cost  of  production  in  South  America  reveals  the 

following  facts:  #    .  i.   i        r  «     t« 

Low  cost  of  production  goes  with  sheep  of  riffht  breeding.     In 

South  America  tliis  means  sheep  bred  for  both  wool  and  mutton. 
Usually,lowcostof  production  goeswith  crossbred  sheep.     Usiiallv 

in  South  America  the  crossbred  sheep  have  a  mmgling  ot  bloods  or 

merino  with  Lincoln  or  Komney.  x    i    j    i-    ^ 

Low  cost  of  production  comes  from  camps  not  overstocked ;  from 
flocks  kept  free  from  disease.  Wliere  scab  has  been  eradicated  is 
found  the  lowest  cost  of  production.  ,  . 

Low  cost  of  production  corner  with  the  providing  of  winter  feed  f or 
the  sheep,  as  oats  sown  in  the  fall  and  grazed  green,  or  pastures  saved 

esDecially  for  the  wintertime.  ,     j.  ^i  xx 

Very  low  cost  of  production  comes  with  makmg  much  of  the  mutton 

end  of  the  business.  i      i   •     -^^  «,^* 

Art^entina  can  more  easdy  cheapen  production  by  bringing  agn- 
culture  to  aid  the  pastures  than  Uruguay  or  Chile,  since  much  land 
in  Unmiav  is  best  not  plowed.  There  has  not  heretofore  been  a  large 
immigration  of  colonists,  to  Uruguay.  Railways  are  bud^l;^^|,^  ^^ 
ever,  and  colonists  coming,  so  it  is  probable  that  m  line  \vith  all 
new  countries,  sheep  will  be  somewhat  crowded  out  and  wool  pro- 
duction may  diminish.  #         x    •     * 

The  advent  of  .imcTican  packers  and  «^P*>^^^1^"^*^.*1%^^^ 
tina  and  Uruguay  k  being  followed  by  a  nse  m  prices  for  fat  sheep. 
This  rise  has  not  yet  been  sufficient  to  stay  the  withdrawal  of  lands 
from  sheep  and  the  devoting  of  them  to  agriculture.  Lnmigration  is 
very  ffreat  in  Argentina  at  the  present  time,  and  each  slupload  ot 
ItaliaS  or  Spanish  farmers  displaces  for  a  Ion-  *f ™  ^L?  y^;^;!^\^3 
number  of  sheep,  since  the  land  once  devoted  to  agriculture  is  not 
soon,  if  ever,  returned  to  the  use  of  sheep.  ,. ,     j    x    x         «, 

Great  fortunes  have  been  made  through  sale  of  lands  to  farmera 
in  the  countries  visited.    Land  values  in  Argentina  are  now  so  high 
that  there  is  steady  and  rapid  cutting  up  of  ^^^P^J^\'^^^^^^ 
colonies.    The  same  is  true  in  Uruguay,  though  there  the  process  is 

of  more  recent  introduction.  .  u  ^  ^p  .u^^t^ 

Something  might  occur  to  check  the  decre^e  in  number  ot  sheep 

in  ArgentinS  and  Uruguay.     The  most  probab  e  cause  of  arrestmg 

this  decrease  would  be  enhanced  values  for  wool  and  mutton. 

The  building  and  operating  of  packing  houses  by  Nort^i  American 

packers  through  competition  is  likely  to  result  m  higher  prices  for 

mutton  in  Argentina  as  in  Uruguay. 


REPORT  or   TARIFF   BOARD   ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


WAGES  OF   SHEPHERDS   AND   PEONS. 


539 


There  is  a  custom  somewhat  prevalent  in  South  America  of  giving 
the  flocks  in  charge  of  puesteros,  who  take  all  care  of  them  and  receive 
as  payment  a  share  m  the  wool  and  lambs.  At  one  estancia  the 
puestero  received  25  per  cent  of  the  wool  and  the  same  of  the  increase, 
valuing  lambs  at  88  cents  each.  The  working  of  this  scheme  was, 
on  the  whole,  more  economical  of  expense  than  to  hire  the  men.  In 
good  years  they  made  good  profits;  m  bad  years  very  little,  as  they 
must  make  good  the  numbers  intrusted  to  them.  They  would  be 
given  from  1,000  to  2,000  sheep  each.  Thus,  a  man  with  1,500  sheep 
would  hope  to  get  one-fourth  of  10,000  pounds  of  wool,  or  2,500 
pounds,  worth,  say,  $400,  and  one-fourth  increase,  say,  250  lambs, 
worth  to  him  88  cents  each,  or  $220;  his  total  earnings  then  might  be 
$620,  from  which  he  must  feed  himself  and  buy  the  horses  that  he 
used.     In  bad  years  he  would  make  much  less  than  the  sum  named. 

In  the  Rio  Negro  men  were  found  giving  sometimes  one-fourth  of 
the  w^ool,  and  occasionally  to  a  very  good  man  one-third  of  the  wool 
for  care,  the  men  to  dip  the  sheep,  the  owner  to  pay  for  materials. 

The  Basques  own  immense  numbers  of  sheep  in  Argentina  and  are 
the  most  successful  shepherds.  They  commonly  estimate  the  labor 
cost,  with  food,  for  caring  for  and  shearing  the  sheep,  at  88  cents 
each  per  year.  Some  put  the  cost  as  low  as  48  cents,  which  does  not 
count  their  own  superintendence. 

It  is  a  notable  fact  that  the  estancias  with  the  liighest  labor  costs 
have  often  returned  the  largest  profits. 

WAGES    OF   SHEPHERDS    AND   PEONS    IN   ARGENTINA. 

The  wages  of  peons  engaged  in  agricultural  work  in  Argentina  vary 
largely.  In  Santa  Cruz,  for  instance,  our  agent  found  men  paying 
shepherds  as  much  as  $30  per  month,  with  food.  These  would  often 
be  Scotclmien  on  estancias  managed  by  Englishmen  or  Scots.  In 
Corrientes,  on  the  other  hand,  the  wages  of  peons  were  found  to  be 
as  low  as  $8  per  month,  with  food.  Between  these  figures  are  all 
manner  of  gradations. 

The  matter  is  much  complicated  by  the  question  of  the  efficiency 
of  the  peon  in  comparison  with  the  shepherd  or  agricultural  laborer 
of  the  United  States.  In  general,  it  may  be  said  that  two  men  of  the 
United  States  would  have  as  much  efficiency  as  three  Argentine 
peons,  though  there  are  exceptions  to  this,  some  of  the  peons  being 
faithful,  skflled,  and  industrious.  As  a  class,  however,  they  are 
below  our  standard  m  efficiency.  In  Aro:entina,  as  in  Uruguay,  the 
superintendents  are  often  paid  large  salaries  and  are  very  skilled, 
intelligent  men,  often  of  British  or  American  origin.  The  peons  are 
native,  and  the  superintendent's  salary  is  quite  often  about  as 
much  as  the  combined  wages  of  the  peons  employed. 

WAGES   IN   URUGUAY. 

The  wages  paid  to  peons  in  Uruguay  vary  greatly.  Near  Colonia, 
where  there  is  much  agriculture,  owners  are  paying  as  high  as  $19  per 
month  to  puesteros.  Others  paid  $12  or  $15.  In  the  north  the  rate 
is  usually  $12  and  sometimes  as  little  as  $8  to  $10.     In  general,  the 


540 


EEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


wages  are  less  toward  tlie  north.     With  wages  quoted  go  food  for 

I  lie  I  aixii  lies « 

The  character  of  Uruguayan  peons  is  good,  m  a  class.  They  are 
fairly  faithful  and  inteUigent,  and  under  capable  superintendence 
they  give  their  employers  good  service. 

FEEDING  THE  LABORERS  AND  SHEPHERDS. 

Usually  it  is  the  custom  in  South  iVmerica  to  furnish  food  to  the 
laborera  on  estancias.  Very;  often  these  are  married  men,  living  in 
small  houses  with  their  families.     Their  food  is  cliiefly  mutton. 

An  element  enters  here  into  the  problem  very  unusual  to  a  North 
American— that  of  the  ''consumer  sheep."  On  every  estancia  there 
is  set  apart  a  flock  of  sheep  to  be  eaten.  In  estimating  the  running 
expenses  the  flocks  have  been  given  credit  only  for  the  proportion  of 
those  sheep  eaten  that  went  to  laborers  caring  for  cattle  or  agricul- 
ture of  tlie  estancia.  The  sheep  consumed  by  peons  engaged  in  care 
of  sheep  and  by  the  household  of  the  manajjer  are  not,  in  these  inves- 
tigations, taken  into  account  in  any  way,  since  it  was  not  necessary. 
This  loss  appears  in  the  inventory  at  the  close  of  tlie  year. 

A  noted  estanciero,  who  keeps  veiy  accurate  books,  as  indeed 
does  nearly  every  one  of  whom  our  agent  obtained  information, 
gives  the  followmg  diet  and  costs  for  20  men  one  day:  Meat,  $2.50, 
coHee,  9  cents;  sugar,  16  cents;  biscuits,  72  cents;  yerba  mate  (tea), 
64  cents;  macaroni,  24  cents;  farina,  lard,  salt,  15  cents;  total,  $4.50. 

This  estimate  makes  the  food  of  a  man  cost  $82.12  for  one  year. 
Other  estancieros  assure  us  that  tliis  estimate  is  below  a  cost  that  will 
keen  their  men. 

Another  estanciero  furnishes  the  following  estimate  of  food  required 
for  a  peon  keeping  a  puesto,  or  pasture,  living  with  his  family,  per 
month:  Tliirty-three  pounds  of  yerba  mate;  6  to  8  sheep,  according 
to  size  of  family;  galletas  (hard  biscuits),  about  6  per  day,  or  33 
pounds  of  farina';  salt.  It  will  be  seen  that  the  home  consumption  of 
meat  is  something  very  large.  A  man,  with  his  family,  may  con- 
sume from  70  to  100  sheep  in  a  year.  The  ordmary  estancia  wiU 
have  at  least  four  peons  and  a  manager.  The  five  famihes  will  con- 
sume, more  or  less,  400  sheep  in  a  year. 

TOTAL   INVESTMENT   IN    SHEEP   IN   LTIUGUAY. 

According  to  the  data  furnished  by  the  Uruguayan  division  of  live 
stock,  there  were  in  Uruguay  in  1910,  26,286,296  sheep.  ^  From  the 
best  data  at  hand  it  would  appear  that  there  is  about  $12  invested  in 
land  and  equipment  for  each  head  of  sheep  (tliis  includes  the  value  of 
the  sheep).  The  total  investment,  then,  would  be  approximately 
$315,435,524. 

During  1910  there  was  sold  wool  worth  $19,319,304.  Unfortu- 
nately, we  are  not  certain  that  tliis  wool  represented  one  year's  chp. 

There  were  exported  during  the  year  12,276,122  pounds  of  mutton. 
This  brought  the  growers,  as  near  as  can  be  estimated,  $495,590. 
There  were  also  very  many  sheep  exported  alive  to  Brazil  and  Argen- 
tina, of  wliich  we  have  no  account. 

The  following  table,  showing  Aigentine  exports  of  wool  and  prices 
(in  Argentina  gold  worth  $0,965),  wiU  be  of  interest.    Vanous  causes 


REPORT   OF   TARIFF   BOARD   ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


541 


influence  the  fluctuations  in  value,  such  as  the  world-market  demand 
and  the  steady  use  of  long  wool  rams,  which  has  rapidly  changed  the 
former  merino  wools  into,  first,  crossbred  wools,  and,  latterly,  into 
a  near  approach  to  longwools  again.  Not  quite  all  of  the  Argentine 
wools  are  nerein  shown,  as  some  are  exportea  through  Punta  Arenas,  a 
Chilean  port. 

Exportation  of  wool  from  Argentina. 
[From  Agricultural  Argentina,  a  bulletin  of  the  minister  of  agriculture.] 


Years. 


las.").. 

lK.S<i 

18S7 

1888 

1889 

1890 

1891 

1892 

1893 

1S94 

1895 

189(1...,..- 

1897 

1898 

1899 

1900 

1901 

1902 

1903 

1904 

1905 

190tl 

1907 

1908 

1909 

Total 


Price  per 

Tnnc 

Value 

pound 

exported. 

(Argentine 
gold). 

(Argen- 
tine 
gold). 

Cents. 

128,393 

$35,950,111 

12.72 

132, 130 

31,711,604 

10.90 

109, 164 

32,749,315 

13.63 

131,743 

44,855,606 

15.45 

141,744 

56,709,774 

18.17 

118,406 

35,521,781 

13.63 

138,006 

48,809,635 

12.72 

154,  (»35 

44,326,060 

13.00 

123,230 

25,006,348 

9.22 

161,907 

28,948,933 

8.14 

201,353 

31,029.522 

7.00 

187,619 

33,510.049 

8.14 

205,571 

36,450,244 

8.27 

221,286 

45,584,603 

9.37 

237, 101 

71,283,619 

13.63 

101,  U3 

27,991,561 

12.59 

228,358 

44,066,483 

8.90 

197,936 

45,810,749 

10.50 

192,989 

50,424,168 

11.86 

168,599 

48,3.55,002 

13.04 

191,00' 

64,312,927 

15.09 

149, 110 

58, 492, 771 

17.82 

154,810 

59,252,948 

17.41 

175,538 

47,246,183 

12.23 

176,681 

59,921,751 

15.40 

4,129,029 

1,108,973,747 

PART  11.  RAW  WOOLS -ADDEA^DA. 


STIEEP   FARMING   IN   THE    EASTERN,    SOUTHERN,    AND 

l^IIDDLE-WEST  STATES. 


543 


DELAINE  "C"  TYPE  MERINO   RAM. 


RAMBOUILLET  RAM. 


SHEEP  FARMHTG  IN  THE  EASTERN,  SOUTHERN,  AND  MID-WEST 

STATES. 

The  States  commonly  termed  the  ''New  England  States"— Maine, 
•New  Hampsliire,  Vermont,  Massachusetts,  Rhode  Island,  and  Con- 
necticut-had at  the  taking  of  the  census  of  1910  430,613  sheep  and 
lambs  Of  these  a  comparatively  small  number,  foiind  m  V  ermont, 
were  merinos.  Most  of  the  remainder  were  of  vanous  breeds  and 
mixtures  of  blood,  tlie  Do^vns  predominatmg. 

At  the  time  of  taking  the  previous  census  (1900)  there  were  m  these 
States  922,558  sheep  and  lambs.  The  cause  of  the  tremendous 
decrease  in  numbers  is  in  large  part  due  to  the  great  development  of 
the  dairy  industry  and  somewhat  to  discouragement  caused  by  tne 

Irnff  /Intra 

"^There  is  in  the  New  England  States  some  excellent  pasture  land. 
Much  of  it  is,  indeed,  better  adapted  to  sheep  than  to  any  other  stock. 
In  Vermont  there  are  hmestone  soils  covered  with  exceUent  grass, 
sweet  and  well  adapted  to  making  fine,  fat  sheep  and  lambs  Ver- 
mont has  a  notable  past  as  a  sheep-growmg  State.  Vermont  sheep 
breeders  produced  very  remarkable  mermos,  the  mtluence  ot  winch 

went  around  the  world.  . ,      n    j       i  +  :„  +i,^ 

Massachusetts  had  also  a  time  of  considerable  development  m  the 
sheep-breeding  industry.    To-dav  most  of  the  sh^p  of  New  England 
are  ired  for  tkeir  lamts.    Fat  lambs  find  a  ready  market  at  good 
prices.    The  great  cities  are  near  at  hand.     In  Vermont  lambs  not 
easily  surpassed  are  being  produced.     Here  the  flocks  are  bred  for 
their  fat  Iambs;  their  wool,  wliile  good  is  of  secondary  importance 
in  point  of  profit.    In  Connecticut  a  limited  number  of  men  keep 
sheep,  some  the  year  round,  others  feeding  them  in  suiter,  bringing 
lambs  from  the  West,  making  them  fat  and  having  left  a  store  of  ma- 
nure to  enrich  their  land.  .J      11  *  :^  +1,^ 
There  is  no  doubt  that  sheep  can  play  a  considerable  part  m  the 
amculture  of  New  England  and  that  they  should  .play  a  much 
l™    part    than    the|    do,    but    there    are    certam    difficulties. 
In  Vermont  it  is  said  that  there  are  more  than  half  as  many  dogs 
as  there  are  sheep.     In  Massachusetts  a  recent  effort  to  restockold 
farms  with  sheep  was  not  always  successful    the  reason  assigned 
being,  in  many  instances,  predatory  dogs.     Winters  in  New  Eng- 
land are  long  and  forage  Is  dear;  gram  is  not  so  easily  produced 
as  m  the  West.     At  the  same  time  there  are  compensating  advan- 
tages.    Parasitic  troubles  are  less  in  New  England  than  m^  other 
regions  of  humid  America.     The    deadly    stomach   worm  is  less 
in  evidence  in  New  England   than  elsewhere.     Dogs  can  be  re- 
strained by  erection  of  dog-proof  wire  fences,  which  some  shep- 
herds have  provided.    The  markets  for  P^^tton  are  near  at  hand 
and  are  the  best  in  America  and  but  little  inferior  to  those  of 
Europe.     New  England  is  handicapped,  comparmg  the  region  to 


32080°— H.  Doc.  342, 62-2,  vol  1 35 


545 


INTENTIONAL  SECOND  EXPOSURE 


DELAINE  •'€•  TYPE   MERINO   RAM. 


RAMBOUILLET  RAM. 


SHEEP  FARMING  IN  THE  EASTERN,  SOUTHERN,  AND  MID-WEST 

STATES. 

The  Stat  OS  commonly  termed  the  ''New  England  States"— Maine, 
New  Hampsliire,  Vermont,  Massachusetts,  Rhode  Island,  and  Con- 
necticut— had  at  the  taking  of  the  census  of  1910,  430,613  sheep  and 
lambs.  Of  these  a  comparatively  small  number,  found  in  Averment, 
were  meiinos.  Most  of  tlie  remainder  were  of  various  breeds  and 
inixturcs  of  blood,  the  Dovvms  predominating. 

At  the  time  of  taking  the  pre\ious  census  (1900)  tliero  were  in  these 
States  922,558  slicep  and  lambs.  The  cause  of  the  tremendous 
decrease  in  numbers  is  in  large  part  due  to  the  great  development  of 
the  dairy  industry  and  somewhat  to  discouragement  caused  by  the 
marauding  dogs. 

There  is  in  the  New  England  States  some  excellent  pasture  land. 
Much  of  it  is,  indeed,  better  adapted  to  sheep  than  to  any  other  stock. 
In  Vermont  there  are  limestone  soils  covered  with  excellent  grass, 
swc-et  and  well  adapted  to  making  fme,  fat  sheep  and  iambs.  Ver- 
mont has  a  notable  past  as  a  sheep-growing  State.  Vermont  sheep 
breeders  produced  very  remarkable  merinos,  the  influence  of  which 
went  around  the  world. 

Massacluisetts  had  also  a  time  of  considerable  development  in  the 
sheep-breeding  industry.  To-day  most  of  the  sheep  of  New  England 
are  bred  for  their  lambs.  Fat  lambs  fmd  a  ready  market  at  good 
prices.  The  great  cities  are  near  at  hand.  In  Vermont  lambs  not 
easily  surpassed  are  being  produced.  Here  the  flocks  are  bred  for 
their  fat  lambs;  their  wool,  while  good,  is  of  secondary  importance 
in  point  of  profit.  In  Connecticut  a  Hmited  number  of  men  keep 
sheep,  some  the  vear  round,  others  feeding  them  in  winter,  bringing 
lambs  from  the  West,  making  them  fat  and  having  left  a  store  of  ma- 
nure to  enrich  their  land.  ^  , 

There  is  no  doubt  that  sheep  can  play  a  considerable  part  m  the 
agi-iculture  of  New  England  and  that  they  sliould  phiy  a  much 
larger  part  than  they  do,  but  there  are  certain  dilhculties. 
In  Vermont  it  is  said  that  there  are  more  than  half  as  many  dogs 
as  there  are  sheep.     In  JMassachusetts  a  recent  effort  to  restock  old 


as  in  the  West.  At  the  same  time  there  are  compensatm^g  advan- 
tages. Parasitic  troubles  are  less  in  New  England  than  in  other 
regions  of  humid  America.  The  deadly  stomach  worm  is  less 
in  evidence  in  New  England  than  else'w^ere.  Dogs  can  be  re- 
strained by  erection  of  dog-proof  wire  fences,  which  some  shep- 
herds have  provided.  The  markets  for  mutton  are  near  at  hand 
and  are  the  best  in  America  and  but  little  inferior  to  those  of 
Europe.     New  England  is  handicapped,  comparing  the  region  to 

3:!< J80"— 11.  Doc.  :J42,  62-2,  vul  1 -'^  545 


-Ot) 


4 

l3r 


546 


EEPOKT  OF  TARIFF  BOAED  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


ol^  England,  because  of  the  cold  winters  and  need  of  housing^and 
feed,  yet  in  market  for  mutton  it  comes  near  being  equal,     v^ool- 

f -owing  as  a  chief  part  of  the  income  from  keeping  sheep  in  New 
ngland  is  probably  out  of  the  question  at  the  present  time.  Wool- 
growing  on  backs  of  well-bred  sheep,  bearing  fat  lambs  for  the 
early  markets,  is  distinctly  in  phice  in  New  England  and  will  prob- 
ably advance  slowly  in  favor.  There  are  large  areas  of  land  better 
adapted  to  grazing  than  to  agriculture;  better  adapted  to  sheep 
than  to  cattle  or  horses.  Tlie  pastures  are  susceptible  of  much 
improvement.  It  may  b©  said  that  profit  in  keeping  sheep  in  New 
England  is  far  more  dependent  upon  the  prosperity  of  nearby  cities 
than  upon  the  prices  of  wool. 

MIDDLE  ATLANTIC  STATES, 

In  New  York  are  good  sheep  farms,  though  not  a  great  number  of 
them  at  the  present  time.  Tlie  State  had,  in  1910,  929,547  sheep 
and  lambs,  chiefly  of  the  English  mutton  breeds.  It  is  notable  that 
in  New  York  there  has  long  been  estabUshed  a  flock  of  sheep  of  one  of 
the  English  breeds  that  has  steadily  produced  as  good  specimens 
as  could  be  gro^Ti  on  the  best  stud  farms  of  Great  Britain,  as 
evinced  by  their  meeting  the  imported  sheep  in  showyards  year 
after  year.    It  is  evident  New  York  and  New  Jersey  can  produce 

food  sheep.  The  production  of  early  lambs  is  found  profitable  in 
lew  Jersey  at  the  present  time,  as  it  is  in  eastern  Pennsylvania. 
In  these  regions  wool  gromng  is  a  matter  subordinated  to  mutton 
production.  Again,  as  in  New  England,  the  nearness  to  the  cities 
gives  strong  advantage  to  the  producer  of  choice  lambs. 

Maryland  has  a  diveraity  of  soils,  elevations,  and  climates.  In  i\m 
western  mountains  are  high,  cool  pastures  where  sheep  especially 
thrive.  There  are  seen  a  few  flocks  of  pure-bred  Rambouillets  and 
other  breeds  noted  for  their  excellence.  In  the  eastern  section  sheep 
are  kept  chiefiy  on  arable  farms  in  small  numbers  to  produce  lambs 
that  go  early  fat  to  market.  Here  the  Downs  and  Dorsets  are  most 
seen.  Here  again  woolgrowing  is  subordinated  to  mutton  production. 
Virginia  is  hke  Marvland,  except  that  the  mountainous  area  is  vast 
and  far-reaching.  Along  the  seaboard  and  in  the  Piedmont  section 
small  flocks  are  seen,  nearly  all  of  Downs  or  Dorsets,  kept  as  adjuncts 
to  farms,  to  consume  weeds  and  chance  forage  that  might  otherwise 

fo  to  waste,  fat  lambs  being  the  cliief  output.  The  difliculty  of 
eeping  large  flocks  free  from  parasitic  disorders  is  great.  At  high 
elevations,  in  the  limestone  pastures  of  the  mountam  region,  are 
some  of  the  most  beautiful  pasture  lands  in  the  world  and  the  most 
profitable.  Here  sheep  are  found  in  numbers  rather  large  for  eastern 
America,  and  usually  in  health  and  making  good  m-ofits.  Here  sheep 
are  fed  but  little  in  winter  and  never  in  summer.  The  blue  grass  keeps 
them  nearly  all  the  year,  and  their  lambs,  bom  upon  the  pasture,  are 
early  fat  because  the  grass  is  of  such  excellence.  Here  are  seen 
Downs  and  Dorsets,  the  Downs  at  present  predominating,  and  nearly 
all  types  of  Downs  are  represented.  There  are  no  finer  natural  sheep 
farms  in  America  than  are  seen  on  the  Virginia  blue-giaas  hills  and  few 
that  return  better  profit.  Here  there  is  little  change  from  year  to  year 
in  numbers  or  type  save  that  the  sheep  farmers  breed  steadily  to 
better  rams  and  so  improve  their  stock. 


BEPOBT  01*  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K, 


SOUTHERN   STATES. 


647 


North  Carolina  is  like  Virginia,  except  that  as  one  removes  south- 
ward the  difliculties  of  keeping  sheep  increase,  so  that  there  are  no 
very  great  numbers  seen  along  the  coast  lands  or  on  the  lands  imme- 
diately back  from  the  coast;  yet  in  the  mountains  good  numbers  of 
sheep  are  kept,  and  some  excellent  grazing  farms  are  seen  stocked  with 
well-bred  sheep,  mostly  of  EngHsh  type.  In  the  Carohna  mountams 
Delaine  and  Rambouillct  merinos  were  introduced  some  years  ago 
and  were  found  to  thrive  admirably,  retaining  type  perhaps  better 
than  did  the  Do\vns,  which  sometimes  do  not  suit  the  sod  or  climate. 
South  Carolina  has  also  good  mountain  pastures,  not  all  of  which  are  ^ 
stocked  as  they  might  be,  and  some  httle  sheep  husbalidry  on  the 
lower  lying  lands,  nearly  always  a  mere  adjunct  to  the  general  stock] 
of  the  'farm  and  in  many  cases  kept  to  supply  the  plantations  ^^th 

nieat*  i 

Georgia  is  hke  in  condition  to  South  Carolina,  not  at  P/esenV 
blessed  with  extensive  pasture  lands  except  in  the  piney  woods  and 
the  mountains.     In  the  piney  woods  are  seen  quite  a  good  many 
sheep,  mostly  of  thin-wooled  sort,  running  semiwild  m  many  instances,  \ 
shearing  light  clips  and  not  attaining  much  weight  of  carcass.     The  ^ 
pasturage  of  the  piney  woods  while  abundant  is  not  so  nutritious  as 
the  grasses  of  northern  limestone  regions.     A  great  sheep-breedmg 
industry  may  not  soon  come  to  Georgia,  though  there  is  opportumty 
to  greatly  improve  the  type  of  sheep.  .  ,  ,  ' 

Florida  has  a  large  area  of  pasture  lands,  not  so  rich  as  the  pastures 
of  the  West  or  North,  yet  affording  considerable  grazing.  In  parts 
this  wild  pasture  is  grazed  by  sheep  of  more  or  less  improved  charac- 
ter. It  has  not  yet  been  determined  how  much  improvement  can  be 
worked  with  these  sheep  by  intelligent  crossbreeding.  It  would  seem 
that  the  merino  or,  perhaps,  the  Persian  ram  here  would  make  great 

Alabama  has  coastal  piney  woods  and  their  characteristic  pasture, 
with  some  few  semiwild  flocks  of  sheep  therein,  and  in  the  north 
other  pasture  lands  hillv  or  semimountamous.  Sheep  tlinve  in  the 
north  when  not  in  large  flocks  and  when  allowed  wide  range.  In 
all  the  Southern  States  the  problem  of  the  parasite  is  the  problem  of 
most  seriousness  after  feed;  perhaps  before  feed.  Mississippi  is  like 
Alabama.  There  is  in  the  middle  of  each  of  these  States  a  large  area 
of  land  adapted  to  alfalfa  growing.  There  sheep  can  be  easily  fed 
and  some  day  there  may  grow  up  there  a  lamb -producing  region. 
Louisiana  in  its  hill  lands  has  a  good  many  small  flocks  of  sheep,  not 
as  a  rule  carefully  bred.  Sheep,  when  given  careful  treatment  to 
keep  them  from  becoming  parasitic,  thrive  in  Louisiana,  though  there 
is  not  now  a  great  industiy  nor  has  the  way  yet  been  found  to  keep 
sheep  there  in  large  flocks.  j.  xi 

The  numbers  of  sheep  in  these  several  States,  according  to  the 
census  of  1910,  are  as  follows:  Maryland,  237,137;  Virgmia,  803,552; 
North  Carohna,  214,176;  South  Carohna,  37,433;  Georgia,  187,589; 
Florida,  113,631;  Alabama,  142,925;  Mississippi,  194,280;  Louisiana, 
178,217.  Because  of  climatic  reasons  and  the  devotion  of  land  to 
other  uses  it  is  not  probable  that  there  will  soon  be  an  especially 
notable  development  of  the  sheep  industry  in  these  States. 


548 


EEPOET  OF   TABIFF  BOABD   ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


THE   UPPER   OHIO   VALLEY  REGION. 


fff 


So  much  space  has  been  given  in  the  "cost  of  production  portion  of 
this  report  to  conditions  prevailing  in  the  great  woolgrowing  district 
centered  in  Ohio,  west  Pennsylvania,  West  Virginia,  and  southern 
Michigan,  that  the  discussion  of  the  situation  in  that  region  in  this 
connection  will  be  limited  largely  to  comment  upon  the  types  of  sheep 
farming  in  those  districts  into  wnich  mutton-making,  as  an  important 
adjunct  to  woolgrowing,  enters. 

On  practically  all  sheep  farms  in  this  region  more  or  less  mutton 
is  made,  but  the  practice  varies;  thus  in  some  cases  wethers  displace 
ewe  stock  and  there  is  a  small  rate  of  increase  and  naturally  a  small 
output  of  mutton.  Fiui^lier,  such  farms  usually  sell  the  wethers  before 
they  are  fat,  leaving  the  finisher  to  make  a  profit  on  them.  On 
farms  of  this  type  practically  all  the  sheep  are  of  pure  merino  blood 
and  often  of  the  wrinkled,  heavy-shearing  kind.  Then  there  is  the 
farm  that  sells  lambs  to  feeders  in  the  com  belt.  Tliis  farm  will 
have  a  larger  ewe  flock,  will  have  larger  increase,  and,  as  a  rule,  will 
show  more  profit  and  produce  wool  with  less  expense  charged  against 
it  than  the  one  that  keeps  wethers.  On  it  the  labor  cost  will  be 
greater  and  the  equipment  usually  more  costly,  since  ewes  and  lambs 
need  more  shelter  than  do  wethers. 

Other  farms  produce  lambs  that  are  sold  fat  after  feeding  them  a 
greater  or  less  time  in  the  fall  and  winter.  A  flock  managed  in  tliis 
way  returns  usually  a  good  amount  from  its  lamb  sales,  so  much  that 
the  charge  against  wool  is  often  entirely  met.  On  such  a  farm  the 
wool  is  not  considered  the  chief  source  of  income.  Much  as  in 
England  it  is  a  side  product — ^more  important,  proportionally,  than  in 
England ;  yet  from  the  fat  lambs  comes  the  greater  return.  It  is  rare 
that  sheep  farms  managed  sldllfully  on  this  system  do  not  show  some 
profit.  The  question  may  be  asked,  Wliy,  then,  do  not  all  of  the 
sheep  breeders  of  the  Ohio  Valley  and  Mchigan  follow  this  system  ? 
Tlie  answer  is  that  on  lull  farms  especially  it  is  not  easy  to  grow  the 
corn  necessary  to  fatten  lambs.  Then,  the  owners  of  many  flocks 
have  not  yet  learned  to  adapt  their  systems  of  agriculture  to  this 
practice;  they  have  long  been  accustomed  to  looking  to  wool  for  their 
chief  profit  from  sheep  breeding.  Others  urge  the  fluctuating  mar- 
kets as  discouraging  them  from  attempting  mutton  production; 
though  on  this  score  it  may  be  said  that  we  have  the  testimony  of  men 
who  have  fed  their  lambs  steadily  year  after  year  for  20  years  and 
have  made  good  profits  in  16  years  of  the  20  just  preceding. 

In  this  combination  of  sheep  breeding  and  lamb  fattening  there 
are  tliree  systems  of  procedure,  with  somewhat  widelv  differing 
profits.  First,  there  is  tlie  plan  of  breeding  sheep  of  a  small,  wrinkled, 
heavy-shearing  type,  fattening  the  lambs  as  best  it  can  be  done. 
Greasy-wooled  sheep  do  not  easily  fatten.  Despite  these  disad- 
vantages we  have  records  of  such  flocks  that  are,  when  the  lambs  are 
Well  fed,  making  a  profit. 

Second,  there  is  the  flock  of  large  delaine,  blacktop,  or  Rambouillet 
ewes,  bred  to  rams  of  like  character.  \Vlien  lambs  from  such  flocks 
are  well  fed  the  result  is  good  and  the  charge  against  the  wool  is  very 
low,  or  sometimes  disappears  altogether.  Well-cared-for  flocks  of 
delaine,  blacktop,  or  Rambouillet  ewes  produce  large  crops  of  lambs. 
These  lambs  fatten  readily  and  sell  for  a  good  price,  ior  nearly  the  top 


AMERICAN   MERINO,  TYPE  "A". 


AMERICAN    MERINO,  TYPE  "B". 


INTENTIONAL  SECOND  EXPOSURE 


548 


EEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD   ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


THE   I'PPER    OHIO    VALLEY   REGION. 


So  mucli  space  lias  been  given  in  tlie  cost  of  production  portion  of 
this  report  to  conditions  prevailing  in  tlie  great  woolgrowing  district 
centered  in  Ohio,  west  Pennsylvania,  West  Virginia,  and  southern 
Michigan,  that  the  discussion  of  tho  situation  in  that  region  in  this 
connection  will  bo  Mmited  largelv  to  comment  upon  the  types  of  sheep 
farming  in  those  districts  into  wliieh  mutton-making,  as  an  important 
adjunct  to  woolgrowing,  enters. 

On  practically  all  sheep  farms  in  this  region  more  or  less  mutton 
is  made,  but  tlie  practice  varies;  thus  in  some  cases  wethers  displace 
ewe  stock  and  there  is  a  small  rate  of  increase  and  naturally  a  small 
output  of  mutton.  Furtlier,  sucli  farms  usually  sell  the  wethers  before 
they  are  fat,  leaving  the  finisher  to  make  a  profit  on  them.  On 
famis  of  this  type  practically  all  the  sheep  are  of  pure  merino  blood 
and  often  of  tlie  wrinlded,  heavy-shearing  kind.  Then  there  is  the 
farm  that  sells  lambs  to  feeders  in  tlie  corn  belt.  Tliis  farm  will 
have  a  larger  ewe  flock,  will  have  larger  increase,  and,  as  a  rule,  will 
show  more  profit  and  produce  wool  with  less  expense  charged  against 
it  than  the  one  that  keeps  wethers.  On  it  tlie  labor  cost  will  be 
greater  and  the  equipment  usually  more  costly,  since  ewes  and  lambs 
need  more  shelter  than  do  v^ethers. 

Other  farms  i^roduce  lambs  that  are  sold  fat  after  feeding  them  a 
greater  or  less  time  in  the  fall  and  winter.  A  flock  managed  in  tliis 
way  returns  usually  a  good  amount  from  its  lamb  sales,  so  much  that 
the  charge  against  wool  is  often  entirely  met.  On  such  a  farm  the 
wool  is  not  considered  the  chief  source  of  income.  Much  as  in 
England  it  is  a  side  product — ^more  important,  proportionally,  than  in 
England ;  yet  from  the  fat  lambs  comes  the  greater  return.  It  is  rare 
that  sheep  famis  managed  sldllfully  on  this  system  do  not  show  some 
profit.  The  question  may  be  asked,  Wliy,  then,  do  not  all  of  the 
sheep  breeders  of  the  Ohio  Valley  and  Michigan  follow  tliis  system? 
The  answer  is  that  on  hill  farms  especially  it  is  not  easy  to  grow  the 
corn  necessaiy  to  fatten  lambs.  Then,  the  owners  of  many  flocks 
have  not  yet  learned  to  adapt  their  systems  of  agriculture  to  this 
practice;  tliev  have  long  been  accustomed  to  looking  to  wool  for  their 
chief  ]>rofit  from  sheep  breeding.  Others  urge  tlie  fluctuating  mar- 
kets as  discouraging  them  from  attempting  mutton  production; 
though  on  tills  score  it  may  be  said  that  we  have  the  testimony  of  men 
who  have  fed  their  lambs  steadily  year  after  year  for  20  years  and 
have  made  good  profits  in  16  years  of  the  20  just  preceding.^ 

In  this  combination  of  sheep  breeding  and  lamb  fattening  there 
are  tlu-ee  systems  of  procedure,  with  somewhat  widelv  dilTering 
profits.  First,  tliere  is  the  plan  of  breeding  sheen  of  a  small,  \vrinkled, 
hea^y-shearing  t\'pe,  fattening  the  lambs  as  best  it  can  be  done. 
Grea'sy-wooled  slieep  do  not  easily  fatten.  Despite  these  disad- 
vantages we  have  records  of  such  flocks  that  are,  when  the  lambs  are 
Well  fed,  making  a  profit. 

Second,  there  is  the  flock  of  large  delaine,  blacktop,  or  Rambouillet 
ewes,  bred  to  rams  of  like  character.  TOien  lambs  from  such  flocks 
are  well  fed  the  result  is  good  and  the  charge  against  t!ie  wool  is  very 
low,  or  sometimes  disappears  altogether.  Well-cared-for  flocks  of 
delaine,  blacktop,  or  Rambouillet  ewes  produce  large  crops  of  lambs. 
These  lambs  fatten  readily  and  sell  for  a  good  price,  ior  nearly  the  top 


AMERICAN    MERINO,  TYPE  "A". 


AMERICAN    MERINO,  TYPE  "B". 


REPOET   OF   TARIFF   BOARD   OX   SCHEDULE  K. 


549 


■up 


price  in  the  market,  in  fact.  That  the  lambs  are  somewhat  smaller 
than  lambs  of  the  distinctly  mutton  breeds  is  no  disparagement  in  the 
estimation  of  present-day  market  buyers.  It  seems  to  be  true,  also, 
that  the  ''plainer  bodied"  or  more  free  from  folds  and  wmkles  the 
sheep  are  the  more  easily  their  lambs  fatten.  It  is,  as  a  matter  of 
fact,  both  surprising  and  gratifying  to  learn  how  much  American 
breeders  have  done  in  this  Ohio  VaUey  and  Michigan  repon  toward 
producing  a  true  type  of  mutton  merino,  adapted  to  the  soil  and 
climate  and  producing  wool  which,  wliile  not  grading  as  fine,  perhaps, 
as  the  finest  Austrahan,  is  yet  a  wool  soft  and  strong  and  of  combmg 

Third,  there  is  the  type  of  sheep  farming  where  crossbreeding  is 
done.  Here  the  ewes  wdl  probably  be  merino,  the  rams  one  of  the 
Enghsh  breeds.  The  favorite  type  of  ram  at  present  is  the  Shropshire 
in  Ohio;  the  Dorset  in  Pennsylvania  and  parts  of  West  Virginia;  in 
some  regions  the  SouthdowTi  or  Hampshire;  in  Michigan  sometmies 
the  Oxford  Down,  though  there  also  the  Shropshire  prevails.  Cross- 
bred lambs  from  merino  mothers  and  any  one  of  the  Enghsh  breeds 
make  almost  perfect  types  of  mutton  lambs  for  feeding  purposes. 
They  early  attain  large  weights.  They  are  healthy  and  fatten  fast. 
In  a  study  of  our  schedules  it  develops  that  men  breeding  this  class  of 
lambs  and  feeding  them  well  are  in  almost  every  instance  making 
profit.  In  many  "flocks  of  this  character  the  charge  agamst  w-ool  has 
been  from  a  few  cents  per  pound  to  no  charge  at  all,  the  lambs  having 
paid  all  the  charges  and  left  a  surplus. 

However,  the  production  of  such  lambs  is  not  so  plam  and  easy  a  pro- 
cedureas  would  atfirst  bo  imagined.  The  first  useof  the  mutton-bred 
ram  usually  results  in  a  crop  of  heavy,  good  selling  lambswhich  brmg  a 
profit.  This  is  assuming  that  they  have  been  well  fed.  When  they  are 
not  so  fed  they  may  return  less  profit  than  lambs  of  purely  mermo 
blood;  but  if  one  sells  all  of  his  lambs  of  both  sexes  he  finds  his  ewe 
flocks  aging  and  not  being  renewed.  It  is  the  testimony  of  most  men 
who  have  had  long  experience  in  this  region  that  it  is  better  to  keep  the 
ewe  flock  purely  mermo  and  not  to  retain  the  half-blood  ewe  lambs, 
however  attractive  they  may  be,  because  they  require  more  and 
better  food  than  merino  ewes  and  are  not  nearly  so  resistant  to  para- 
sites. What  occurred  m  Michigan  folio wmg  the  advent  of  mutton- 
bred  rams  in  a  mermo  country  nas  already  been  related.  The  same 
experience  has  been  repeated  many  times  in  neighborhoods  m  the 

Ohio  Valley.  mr     i. 

There  seem  to  be  two  solutions  to  tliis  problem.  The  board  has 
instances  of  each  solution  and  the  results  are  good.  The  farmer  may 
use  two  classes  of  rams,  one  of  mermo  blood,  of  the  type  he  fmds  best. 
The  rams  will  be  bred  to  a  sufficient  number  of  his  best  ewes  to  pre- 
serve in  purity  his  ewe  flock,  the  ewe  lambs  from  such  matings  bemg 
retamed  to  replenish  the  flocR.  All  the  other  ewes  will  be  bred  to 
the  mutton  rams  and  the  progeny  be  all  sold  fat  to  the  butchers. 
This  system  seems  a  practical  one,  and  is  in  Use  by  a  considerable 
and  growmg  number  of  men  m  the  Ohio  Valley,  Michigan,  and  adja- 
cent States.  t     1        i* 

Another  possible  solution  is  to  so  carefully  to  select^  the  breedm? 
stock  that  both  ewes  and  rams  mil  be  of  mutton  mermo  type,  and 
the  lambs  will  fatten  as  readily  as  is  necessaiy  to  make  them  profit- 
able.    One  of  the  board's  representatives  found  good  flocks  of  Black- 


I  i»      iWill 


650 


KEPOKT  OF  TARIFF  BOABD  OH  SCHEDULE  K. 


BEPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


551 


ilMl^ 


• 

top,  Delaine,  and  RambouiUet  sheep  on  farms  that  had  carried  (hem 
for  many  yeare,  where  the  lambs  were  fattening  perfectly  and  in 

show  L^'ood    S  '*''^"™*'  ^'"""^  ^^^"^  farms  in  our  tabulations 

Other  farmers  breed  all  of  their  merino  ewes  to  mutton  rams,  feed 
all  of  their  lambs,  and  from  time  to  time  replenish  their  ewe  flocks 
by  purchase  from  their  neighbors.  These  men  usuaUy  make  money 
Ihe  s}^tem  naturally,  js  one  that  can  be  followed  by  only  a  hmited 
number,  and  it  m  probable  that  the  grower  from  whom  the  owes  are 
bought  has  found  wool  production  an  expensive  business. 

lnx)m  the  foregoing  It  seems  important  for  the  sheep  farmers  of 
the  hill  regions  of  Ohio,  Peimsylvania,  and  West  Virginia  to  seek 
wherever  possible  to  produce  fat  lambs  as  an  effective  means  of 
abatmg  then-  wool  costs.  There  are,  however,  certam  difficulties, 
some  of  them  serious,  m  the  way.  In  much  of  the  region  m  question 
the  plow  IS  of  httle  use.  The  hillsides  are  too  steep  for  culSvation 
Ihe  land  readily  erodes,  and  there  is  never  a  surplus  of  com  nor  even 
always  a  sufficiency  of  hay.  Before  growera  tere  can  adopt  new 
methods  they  must  buy  corn,  and  this  often  at  high  prices  ^id  as 
they  are  not  accustomed  to  speculation  this  wod^  not  appeal  to 
them.  Not  every  year  will  be  a  profitable  one  to  the  feeder  of  lambs 
in  ifT^'  howejer,  that  the  consumption  of  mutton  is  mcreasing 
s^Stc^^^^^^^^  "^^^  ^"^^^  *^^^  ^^^  ^  ^--  --  to  I 

A  branch  of  the  sheep  industr}-  occasionally  seen  in  this  i-egion  is 
the  production  of  wmter  lambs,  sometunes  called  ''hothouse  lambs  " 
designed  for  the  markets  of  the  larger  cities  of  the  East.     Merino 
ewes  are  good  producers  of  these  lambs,  though  crossbred  merino 
ewc«  are  more  piized      The  rams  in  use  for  this  purpose  are  Dorset 
or  Do^Ti  or  some  other  of  the  recognized  mutton  breeds.     These 
iambs  are  born  early    perhaps  in  December,  highly  fed,  and  sent 
dressed  to  market,  where  they  command  high  pri^.     Naturally, 
wool  production  is  but  an  mcident  m  this  busmess.    There  are  Ohio 
sheep  breeders  who  sell  large  numbere  of  these  spring  lambs  at  very 
remunerative  prices.     In  fact,  this  branch  of  the  busmess  when  sldK 
fully  and  sucWully  done  is  perhaps  the  most  profitable  of  all  sheep 
husbandly.    Naturally,  however,  it  is  not  a  business  capable  of  un- 
limited expansion,  smce  the  prices  that  must  be  received  for  the 
iambs  are  necessarily  high,  as  the  expenses  are  great 
^J^^'^Vt'^  occasional  instances  of  stocking  of  fai-ms  with  Western 
ewes,     Ihese  are  grade  mermos  of  probably  a  considerable  propor- 
tion of  EambouiJlet  blood.     Such  fl(5cks,  bred  to  good  mutton  mms, 
produce  fine  lambs  tjiat  feed  well,  and  the  result  of  the  whole  opem! 
iTr.  TJ?I    ?  successful.     In  Ohio  these  ewes  have  come  more  to  the 
corn  belt  of  the  southwestern  part  of  the  State  than  to  the  eastern 
or  true  sheep-breedmg  section.    The  western  ewes  are  larger  than  the 
Ohio  mermo ;  as  a  class  are  strong.     They  are  good  mothers  and  grow 
lambs  ea^y  fattened,  but  do  not  produce  the  true  Ohio  typo  of 
mermo  wool.  ^^       * 

THE   FEEDING   OF    WESTERN  LAMBS. 

r«;^I^^T*^^*  ^1^^"^^^,  industry  is  the  feeding  of  western 
range-born  lambs.    This  work  is  done  mostly  in  winter.     It  is  a  bus? 

more  along  the  western  edge  of  tie  region  and  ih  Michigan,  where  it 


has  assumed  very  large  proportions.  Naturally,  lamb  feeding  is 
most  seen  in  regions  where  corn,  clover,  and  alfalfa  thrive  and  are 
largely  grown.  In  Michigan,  where  in  certain  counties  it  is  an  indus- 
try of  great  magnitude,  the  feeders  produce  only  their  hay,  buying 
the  gram  fed  from  the  West  or  using  damaged  grains  from  the  ele- 
vators. It  is  not  unusual  to  find  a  farmer  handling  1,000  lambs,  and 
occasionally  one  is  seen  who  feeds  2,500  or  more.  Two  men  will  feed 
2,000  lambs ;  thus  the  labor  cost  of  feeding  the  large  number  is  reduced. 
The  feeding  is  done  entirely  under  cover,  usually  in  large  bams  built 
for  the  purpose. 

Tlie  supply  of  feedera  is  brought  from  the  great  markets,  Omaha, 
or  Chicago,  or  Kansas  City.  Small,  light  lambs  are  usually  chosen  to 
be  fed.  Western  lambs  are  healthy  and  feed  well,  especially  when 
they  have  an  infusion  of  mutton  blood.  They  are  given  corn  and 
hay,  sometimes  other  grains,  occasionally  corn  silage,  for  periods  of 
90  days  or  longer,  and  are  sold  fat  all  through  the  winter  and  spring 
months.  Often  they  are  shorn  before  selling.  It  has  been  lound 
impossible  to  secure  accurate  and  satisfactory  data  of  the  costs  of 
growing  wool  in  these  feeding  barns  because  the  business  has  in  it  so 
many  of  the  elements  of  speculation.  If  the  feeder  buys  his  lambs  in 
a  low  market  and  sells  on  a  high  one,  he  makes  money;  if  he  buys 
when  lambs  are  abnormally  dear  and  sells  when  there  is  a  glut  of  fat 
stuff  on  the  market,  he  loses  perhaps  all  of  the  feed  that  he  has  fed 
the  lambs.  He  may  shear  his  lamos  and  sell  the  wool,  but  he  con- 
siders that  a  mere  by-product  of  his  business. 

It  is,  however,  safe  to  say  that  the  lamb  feeders  as  a  class  prosper, 
and  their  farms  increase  marvelously  in  fertility.  In  a  series  of 
years,  despite  the  occasional  periods  of  disaster  which  come  from 
fluctuations  in  the  sheep  markets,  caused  largely  by  the  variable  sup- 
plies of  feeders  and  fat  lambs,  many  of  these  growers  are  making 
money. 

MIDDLE    WESTERN    STATES. 

The  total  number  of  farms  reported  by  the  census  for  1910  from  the 
States  of  Indiana,  Illinois,  Wisconsin,  Minnesota,  Iowa,  and  Missouri 
was  1,293,742.  Of  these  184,819,  or  about  14i  per  cent,  reported 
sheep.  The  total  number  reported  was  6,920,734,  or  a  little  more  than 
37  head  for  each  fann  keeping  them.  The  figures  above  take  no 
account  of  the  number  of  farms  on  which  western  sheep  and  lambs 
are  handled  nor  how  many  of  these  animals  were  fed  during  the  census 
year.  Were  it  possible  to  get  at  these  figures  they  would  undoubtedly 
add  materially  to  the  showing  of  sheep  husbandry  as  a  factor  in  the 
farm  economy  in  the  States  under  consideration. 

To  realize  that  only  one-seventh  of  the  farms  maintain  flocks  and 
to  know  that  these  flocks  average  only  a  little  more  than  37  head  in 
number  amounts  to  admitting  that  sheep  do  not  feature  in  the  farm 
economy  of  these  States  in  a  large  way.  It  indicates  that  as  a  rule 
they  are  kept  as  a  side  issue  and  not  as  the  main  feature  of  the  fann. 
On  this  account  very  few  ownei*s  of  sheep  know  to  what  extent  their 
flock  reaUy  figures  in  the  farm  economy.  But  usuaUy  they  know 
why,  which  is  manifested  in  the  reasons  they  give  for  keeping  sheep. 
In  the  main  these  reasons  are  as  follows:  (1)  They  utilize  what  other- 


...BJIIIITJIIJIHillllKllI 


KK9 


BEPOKT  OF  TAHITF  BOARD  02T  SCHEDULE  K. 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


553 


i ■hi 


i» 


Wfln 

"ii 


wise  would  be  considered  waste.  (2)  They  destroy  weeds  and  weed 
seeds.  (3)  They  require  less  labor  than  other  classes  of  live  stock. 
(4)  They  are  unexcelled  by  other  animals  in  the  production  and  dis- 
tribution of  valuable  manure  over  the  land.  (5)  They  improve  the 
appearance  of  the  farm.  (6)  They  return  good  profits  on  the  invest- 
ment.. The  reasons  enumerated  above  indicate  what  the  average 
flockowner  in  the  Mddle  West  will  admit — that  on  account  of  the 
unavoidable  presence  of  waste  and  weeds  and  the  need  for  getting 
these  tilings  out  of  the  way  sheep  figure  not  only  in  net  profits  but  in 
labor  saved. 

The  sheep  first  introduced  into  tliis  territory  were  merinos.  To  a 
l&Tge  extent  they  have  been  replaced  by  the  English  mutton  breeds 
during  the  last  25  years.  Tlie  merino  was  kept  primarilj  for  its  wool. 
Wlien  that  commoditv  declined  in  price  and  land  rose  m  value,  they 
were  not  as  profitable  as  other  things  the  farmer  could  take  up. 
Moreover,  the  demand  for  mutton  increased,  and  this  demand  leaned 
toward  lamb  instead  of  the  mature  carcass.  The  old-time  pure  merino 
was  not  ideal  for  mutton  and  practically  out  of  consideration  as  lamb. 
It  was  heavy  in  pelt,  slow  to  mature,  and  lacking  in  the  form  and  qual- 
ity expected  of  the  choice  or  prime  animal  for  mutton  or  lamb. 
Merino  ewes  were  first  crossed  with  mutton  sires.  The  result  was  a 
great  improvement  in  mutton  quality.  Later  both  males  and  females 
of  the  leading  English  mutton  breeds  were  introduced  and  flocks  purely 
of  mutton  blood  established.  During  the  earlier  period  in  this  evolu^ 
tion  there  was  much  mixing  of  breeds,  wliich  resulted  in  a  considerable 
lack  of  uniformitv.  This  was  emphasized  not  only  by  the  crossing  of 
breeds,  but  also  by  the  use  of  grade  and  crossbred  sires.  The  impor- 
tant thing  which  seems  to  be  occurring  at  the  present  time  is  the  more 
general  use  of  piire-bred  rams  of  the  same  breed  year  after  year.  This 
IS  resulting  in  high-grade  flocks  of  desirable  quahty  and  uniformity  for 
commercial  purposes. 

Long  wools  were  prominent  amongst  the  earlier  representatives  of 
the  EngHsh  mutton  breeds  used.  An  appreciable  number  of  pure-bred 
flocks  were  founded,  but  they  failed  to  remain  in  favor  because  they 
were  not  health}^  when  exposed  to  the  van^dng  cHmates  of  the  Mddle 
West.  Their  wool  being  long  and  open  alfowed  the  moisture  to  pene- 
trate to  the  skin,  which  caused  cold  and  catarrhal  complications  to  set 
in,  and  the  result  was  a  general  decline  in  health. 

The  Shropshire,  Oxford,  and  Ilanipshire  are  the  breeds  most  com- 
monly sought  after  now,  except  in  Kentucky  and  Tennessee,  where 
Southdowns  are  used.  Of  these  the  Shropshire  leads,  while  the  other 
two  are  being  used  in  about  equal  numbers.  It  is  said  that  22  years 
a|jo  there  was  but  one  breeder  of  Shropsliires  in  the  State  of  Wisconsin. 
"Now  there  are  many  who  are  breeding  good  rams  for  the  grade  flocks 
of  the  home  and  neighboring  States.  Practically  the  same  is  true  not 
only  of  Shropshires,  Dut  also  of  Oxford  and  Hampshires  of  all  the  other 
Statesunderreview,exceptIllinois,  Indiana,  Kentuckv,  and  Tennessee. 
The  State  last  mentioned  inclines  strongly  to  Southdown,  so  also  does 
Kentucky,  but  Shropsliires  and  Hampshires  are  graining  there.  In 
Indiana  and  Elinois,  Shropshire  flocks  were  established  at  an  earlier 
date  than  in  the  other  States.  So  far  as  noted  there  is  no  feeling  that 
crossbred  sheep  are  more  profitable  than  high  grades.  Hence  from  the 
impetus  f  urnisned  by  the  comparatively  easy  availability  of  pure-bred 


rams  from  the  various  breeders  it  would  seem  that  before  many  years 
most  of  the  commercial  flocks  will  bear  evidence  of  good  breeding. 

In  the  territory  under  review  the  increase  in  ewes  during  the  past  10 
years  has  been  only  slightly  over  5  per  cent.  A  pronounced  increase 
occurred  in  Missouri  and  Tennessee,  fair  increase  m  Minnesota,  Iowa, 
Kansas,  and  Kentucky,  and  a  shght  increase  in  Illinois.  Wisconsin, 
Nebraska,  and  Indiana  showed  a  marked  decrease. 

Increases  and  decreases  are  discussed  in  terms  of  ewes,  because  the 
census  report  for  1900  was  taken  June  1,  while  that  for  1910  was  taken 
April  15,  oefore  the  lambing  season  was  over  in  a  number  of  the  States. 
On  tins  account  the  two  reports  are  not  on  a  comparable  basis  were  we 
to  consider  the  total  sheep  and  lambs  enumerated.  The  causes  of  an 
increase  in  certain  States  and  a  decrease  in  others  are  reserved  for  later 
discussion. 

The  following  table  shows  the  number  of  farms  reporting  sheep 
in  the  States  under  review  for  1910  and  1900,  and  also  the  increase  or 
decrease  for  each  wState,  as  well  as  total  decrease. 


States. 


Tennessee. 
Kentucky . 
Indiana . . . 
Illinois  — 
Wisconsin , 
Minnesota. 

Iowa 

Missouri .  - 
Nebraska . 
Kansas... 


Total  decrease. 


1910 


45,707 
29,978 
38,191 
26,262 
30,040 
24,564 
21,810 
44,010 
3,043 
3,143 


266,748 


ICOO 

Decrease. 

Increase. 

50,835 

5,128 
7,927 
9,865 

37,905 
48,046 
25,422 
47,061 

840 

17,021 
3,492 

28,056 
18,788 
38,013 

3,022 

5,997 

2,764 

279 

2,095 

l,04g 

298,985 
266,748 

43, 423 
11,186 

11,186 

32,237 

32,237 

Per  cent  decrease.  10.8. 


It  significant  to  note  that  five  of  the  States  under  review  indicate 
a  decrease  in  the  number  of  farms  reporting  sheep  and  the  remaining 
five  an  increase.  Of  those  in  the  decrease  column,  three — Minnesota, 
Tennessee,  and  Kentucky— report  an  increase  in  ewes.  This  stronglv 
suggests  an  increase  in  average  size  of  flocks  in  these  States,  although 
it  may  not  be  as  great  as  the  figures  indicate.  Kentucky  and  Ten- 
nessee are  specializing  in  the  production  of  spring  lambs,  and  they  are 
becoming  more  and  more  favorably  known  for  the  excellence  of  tins 
product.  Obviously  this  is  a  business  confined  to  certain  localities, 
and  the  parties  engaging  in  it  would  want  to  keep  enough  ewes  to 
make  it  worth  while  to  give  them  proper  care  and  attention.  It  is 
likely  then  that  small  owners  living  outside  the  localities  specializing  in 
spring  lambs  have,  on  account  of  various  discouragements,  closed  out 
their  sheep,  and  the  producers  of  spring  lambs  increased  their  ewe 

flocks. 

Nebraska  reports  a  slight  increase  in  the  number  of  farms,  but  a 
decrease  in  the  number  of  breeding  ewes.  This  undoubtedly  indicates 
the  disappearance  of  flocks  handled  on  the  herding  or  semiherding 
plan,  and  the  more  general  occurrence  of  the  small  farm  flock.  In 
Minnesota  it  would  seem  that  dairying  has  supplemented  many  of 
the  small  flocks  and  that  in  regions  favorable  to  sheep  the  size  of 
flocks  has  increased. 


554 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  OH  SCHEDULE  K. 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


555 


IHiiiois  shows  a  slight  increase  both  in  the  number  of  farms  report- 
in<3:  sheep  and  in  the  number  of  ewes  maintained.  There  is  no  mate- 
rial change  in  the  size  of  flocks.  Iowa  has  noticeably  mcreased  in 
the  number  of  farms  keeping  sheep  and  also  in  numbers,  but  the 
average  number  of  ewes  per  flock  remains  about  the  same.  Missouri 
has  greatly  increased  in  botli  the  number  of  farms  keeping  sheep  and 
in  the  number  of  ewes  per  farm;  Kansas  has  increased  both  in  Tarms 
and  in  number  of  breeding  ewes,  but  the  number  of  ewes  per  farm 
.lias  decreased. 

In  those  cases  where  the  number  of  farms  has  decreased  and  the 
number  of  slieep  increased  it  is  highly  probable  that  tlie  industry 
is  l>eeoming  more  of  a  regular  feature  of  the  agricultural  operations 
on  the  farms  where  they  are  kept.  In  other  words,  tins  would 
indicate  that  there  are  fewer  sheepmen  temporarily  in  the  business 
than  formerly.  ^ 

In  States  like  Iowa  and  Illinois  it  is  difficult  to  tell  whether  a 
greater  or  less  percentage  of  owners  are  making  the  flock  a  regular 
feature  of  their  farming  operations,  but  the  general  impression  is  that 
the  business  isincreasing.  Sheep  feeding  is  more  attractive  to  the  man 
who  does  not  intend  to  make  sheep  a  regular  feature  in  his  farming. 
Tlie  feeder  sheep  will  clean  up  his  farm  and  reheve  him  of  a  lambing 
season  which  the  inexperienced  man  would  rather  avoid.  Tlicre 
are  a  number  of  flockowners  in  every  State  who  fully  intend  to  keep 
sheep  regularly,  but  for  one  reason  or  another  dispose  of  them.  Tins 
type  of  o%\Tier  has  worked  harm  to  the  permanence  of  tlie  industr}-. 
He  is  vacillating  toward  sheep,  but  stubbornly  persistent  in  staying 
with  some  other  class  of  live  stock.  For  example,  it  woidd  take  an 
immense  amoimt  of  ill  luck  to  drive  a  com-belt  stockman  out  of 
the  pig  business  or  a  Wisconsin  dairjman  awav  from  cows;  yet  such  a 
man  closes  out  his  sheep  if  he  has  to  deal  with  predatory  dogs, 
stomach  wonus,  or  fluctuating  prices  for  lambs  or  wool.  He  injures 
the  reputation  of  flock  husbandry  in  his  neighborhood  and  helps 
to  fasten  upon  it  the  impression  that  it  is  an  'in-and-out"  business. 

In  Missouri,  the  evidence  all  indicates  that  farm  flocks  as  a  regiUar 
feature  of  agricultural  operations  are  on  the  increase.  As  to  increase 
in  number  of  sheep  and  the  number  of  farms  reporting  them  the 
figures  submitted  are  undeniable.  Beef-cattle  growing  has  been 
waning  because  of  the  expense  of  raising  calves.  Lamb  raising  is 
more  profitable,  and  sheep  can  be  worked  into  any  system  of  fann- 
ing practiced  in  the  State.  Wlien  raising  beef  calves  was  no  longer 
profitable  a  search  was  begun  for  something  to  take  its  place,  with 
the  result  that  many  took  up  lamb  raising.  Tliis  has  been  the 
greatest  factor  in  the  growth  of  the  sheep  industrv  in  Mssouri. 
Tliese  new  men  at  the  business  are  likely  to  make  sheep  a  regular 
feature  in  their  farm  operations — at  least  until  they  are  driven  out 
through  lack  of  profiti^.  Tliey  are  fully  awake  as  to  the  factors  to 
take  mto  consideration  in  order  to  make  the  flock  profitable,  and 
amongst  these  tliat  spasmodic  investment  and  engagement  are  not 
advisable.  Mssouri  has  a  great  deal  of  land  ideal  in  topography  as 
sheep  runs.  Such  land  may  be  found  on  nearly  ever^  farm,  and 
tliis  is  a  factor  which,  once  sheep  have  gained  headway  in  importance, 
will  further  encourage  people  to  make  them  a  feature  in  the  system 
of  farming. 


The  growth  in  the  industry  in  Kansas  and  Iowa  is  perhaps  due  to 
the  general  and  insistent  advocacy  of  sheep  on  the  average  farm 
on  the  part  of  agricultural  educators.  In  Iowa  sheep-tight  fences 
are  general,  and  this  is  true  to  a  certain  extent  in  Kansas.  This  is  a 
factor  in  making  the  farm  flock  more  general. 

Wisconsin  is  conspicuous  for  her  tremendous  decrease  in  both  the 
number  of  farms  keeping  sheep  and  the  number  of  sheep  during  the 
last  decade.  The  reason  given  is  that  dairying  is  more  profitable  than 
sheep  raising,  and  the  tendency  is  in  that  direction.  Southeastern  Wis- 
consin is  within  the  zone  that  furnished  milk  to  Chicago.  It  was  in 
this  district  that  the  sheep  population  was  once  most  dense ;  but  it  can 
be  just  as  truthfully  said  that  Chicago' s  milk  demand  drove  them  out  as 
it  can  be  that  it  closed  the  butter  factories  in  the  yicinity  of  Elgm. 
In  other  parts  of  the  State  cheese  and  butter  making  are  enormous 
industries  and  still  growing.  The  rural  population  is  strongly  infil- 
trated by  immigrants  from  the  milk,  butter,  and  cheese  making 
countries  of  the  Old  World,  whose  chief  ambition  is  to  own  and  to  milk 
cows.  These  people,  as  a  rule,  have  three-strand  barbed-wire  fences 
to  restrain  their  cattle,  but,  with  the  exception  of  a  small  lot  or  two 
fenced  for  pigs,  they  have  no  fencing  suitable  for  keeping  sheep  \\-iihin 
bounds.  They  doubtless  regard  the  sheep  a  competitor  mth  the  cow 
for  grass,  and  hence  a  drawback  to  the  main  feature  of  the  farm.  It 
is  admitted  by  many  in  Wisconsin  that  dairying  is  more  profitable 
than  sheep  and  that  it  will  practically  drive  sheep  raising  out  of  the 
southern  part  of  the  State.  Certain  educators  believe,  however,  that 
the  land  could  be  more  profitably  operated  if  fewer  cows  than  neces- 
sary to  consume  the  grass  were  kept  and  a  few  sheep  placed  on  the 
farm  to  keep  the  pastures  clean  of  v/eeds  and  to  consume  the  grass 
that  would  have  oeen  eaten  by  the  cows  added  if  the  land  were 
stocked  with  cattle  to  its  full  capacity.  In  the  light  of  present  con- 
ditions there  is  no  indication  that  this  will  occur  or  that  the  number 
of  sheep  will  increase.  There  is  room  for  the  industry  to  grow  in 
the  northern  part  of  the  State  and  the  friends  of  sheep  are  looking 
to  that  region  with  hope. 

MOVEMENT  OP  WESTERN  SHEEP  TO  CORN-BELT  FARMS  AND  FEED  LOTS. 

Western  ewes  are  frequently  purchased  by  the  farmers  of  this  region 
for  breeding  purposes.  In  Missouri,  Iowa,  Ilhnois,  and  Indiana  the 
practice  is  on  the  increase.  One  can  hear  both  favorable  and  adverse 
reports  about  the  results  obtained  from  these  ewes.  Those  in 
IVIissouri  who  are  making  a  special  study  of  the  place  for  western  ewes 
in  that  State  claim  that  the  adverse  reports  come  from  those  who 
purchase  ewes  so  old  that  they  are  no  longer  useful  for  breeding  any- 
where. These  same  persons  find  the  following  advantages  in  the  use 
of  western  ewes  that  nave  good  mouths,  sound  udders,  and  evidence 
of  good  shearing  qualities. 

(1)  They  are  more  uniform  in  scale  and  breeding  than  the  natives 
that  can  be  purchased.  (2)  They  are  more  healthy  because  they 
are  not  infested  with  stomach  worms  and  not  often  with  internal 
parasites  of  any  sort.  (3)  It  is  more  convenient  to  get  them.  An 
order  for  them  can  be  placed  with  a  commission  firm  on  the  open 
market  who  can  fill  the  order  according  to  instructions.  It  is  next 
to  impossible  to  get  together  a  uniform  lot  of  native  ewes  in  MissourL 


556 


EEPOET   OP  TARIFF   BOARD  ON  SCHEDUIiE   K. 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


557 


On  tlie  open  market  it  would  be  a  matter  of  making  small  selections 
for  a  series  of  clavs;  in  the  country  it  would  take  much  time  in  search- 
ing them  out.  ^(4)  The  change  of  environment  from  the  West  to 
ilfssouri  causes  western  ewes  to  thrive  better  than  natives  picked  up 
in  the  neighborhood.  The  v  begin  to  gain  in  flesh  almost  from  the 
start  on  the  pastures  which  are  more  luxuriant  than  the  range  of  their 
Bative  home.  One  important  effect  produced  by  this  change  is 
that  it  permits  of  breeding  early  enough  to  have  the  lambs  born  in 
February  or  March,  which  means  marketing  in  early  summer  before 
the  run  from  the  West  starts.  What  is  more  important,  they  all 
breed  at  about  the  same  date,  so  that  the  lambs  are  fairly  uniform 
in  age  and  weight  at  market  time.  The  native  ewes  do  not  breed 
as  early  and  it  is  not  possible  to  get  them  in  lamb  at  about  the  same 
time.  (5)  The  man  who  breeds  western  ewes  does  not  retain  his 
ewe  lambs  for  breeding  puiposes  because  it  can  easily  be  demon- 
strated that  it  is  more  profitable  to  sell  the  lambs  and  to  rephice 
breeding  ewes  b}^  purchase  on  the  market.  It  is  not  necessarily  true 
that  all  breeding  ewes  culled  from  western  flocks  are  not  useful  if 
transfeiTcd  to  coni-belt  fanns — it  is  only  those  tliat  are  advanced  in 
age  and  are  beginning  to  break  down  before  they  are  sent  to  market 
by  the  western  owner. 

"The  large  markets  testify  that  it  has  not  been  easy  to  fill  all  the 
orders  for  western  breeding  ewes  during  the  last  three  or  four  years. 
Several  reasons  are  given.  (1 )  There  is  a  growing  demand  for  these 
ewes  in  the  East  and  the  ^licldle  West.  (2)  Until  last  3'ear  there  was 
an  expansion  in  the  western  industry  wliich  held  most  of  the  desirable 
ewes  on  the  range.  (3)  The  western  o\^Tiers  are  more  inclined  than 
foniierl}'  to  sell  off  all  their  lamb  crop  and  to  retain  their  ewes  as  long 
as  tliey  are  fit  for  breeding.  In  otlier  words,  many  ewes  decline  in 
shearing  qualities  before  tliey  begin  to  go  backward  as  producers  of 
lambs  and  the  latter  is  being  taken  as  the  basis  for  culling  rather  than 
the  former. 

Wlien  western  ewes  are  bred  to  pure-bred  mutton  rams  of  desirable 
market  t3'pe  tliey  produce  lambs  that  sell  well.  Two  reasons  may 
be  assigned  for  tlieir  being  favorably  received  by  corn-belt  farmers 
generally.  (1)  The  scarcity  of  native  ewes  during  the  past  few 
years.  "(2)  Western  ewes  are  healthy.  It  is  thought  that  they  are 
not  so  resistant  to  disease  after  reaching  tlie  corn  belt  as  native  ewes — 
surely  not  more  so,  but  they  remain  healthy  for  one  or  two  seasons, 
after  which  they  can  be  replaced  by  new  purchases. 

"Wliether  the  practice  of  using  western  ewes  will  continue  to  increase 
is  a  mooted  question.  All  of  these  ewes  have  some  merino  blood.  In 
many  of  them  this  blood  predominates,  and  most  farmers  in  the 
States  under  review  are  not  attracted  to  sheep  of  the  merino  tjve.  In 
their  opinion  such  sheep  are  not  so  comely  m  appearance  as  the  tidy 
and  stylish  black-face  breeds.  Students  of  sheep  farming  think  that 
western  ewes  belong  to  an  "in-between"  period— a  period  in  which 
raisers  have  not  attained  their  full  possibilities  in  the  production  of 
lambs  which  discriminating  consumers  will  admit  are  prime.  ^  Such 
a  period  will  not  come  uiitu  methods  of  farming  become  more  inten- 
sive and  healthy  natives  more  general.  The  bringing  of  western  ewea 
from  the  range  to  corn-belt  farms  is  not  unlike  the  long-established 
practice  in  England  and  Scotland  of  bringing  mature  ewes  from  the 
tills  to  the  lowlands  and  breeding  them  one  or  two  seasons,    Ther^ 


the  practice  is  profitable,  but  the  ewes  brought  from  the  hills  are  of 
mutton  breeds  with  no  admixture  of  merino.  Bringing  western  ewes 
to  com-belo  farms  may  remain  profitable  for  many  years  to  come. 

Close  students  of  the  industry  usually  claim  that  at  the  present 
time  the  most  profitable  lamb  raising  is  conducted  on  the  following 

plan : 

(1)  Purchase  uniform  western  ewes  direct  from  the  range.  See 
that  they  have  good  mouths,  sound  udders,  and  a  prospect  for  shear- 
ing a  good  weight  of  wool.  (2)  Breed  them  to  pure-bred  mutton 
rams  of  approved  market  type.  (3)  Have  the  lambs  born  in  Feb- 
ruary and  March,  so  they  can  be  marketed  early  before  the  heavy  run 
from  the  West  starts  and  before  serious  infestation  with  stomach 
worm  is  likely.  (4)  Dock  and  castrate  the  lambs.  (5)  Market  all 
the  lambs.  (6)  Have  an  adequate  supply  of  harvested  feeds  to  sup- 
plement feed  in  fields  if  necessary  to  keep  ewes  in  good  breeding  con- 
dition. (7)  Supply  early  succulent  feed,  such  as  rye.  (8)  Dispose  of 
the  ewes  before  they  become  seriously  diseased  or  decrepit  and  buy  in 
a  new  supply. 

FEEDER    SHEEP   AND    LAMBS. 

The  ordinary  method  of  liandling  feeder  sheep  and  lambs  in  the 
Middle  West  has  changed  very  materially  in  the  past  10  or  15 
years.  At  its  inception  this  business  was  m  the  hands  of  men  who 
not  only  purchased  the  animals  but  also  all  of  the  feeds.  It  was  a 
speculative  proposition  in  wliich  it  was  easy  to  determine  whether 
profits  were  secured  or  not.  When  both  feeds  and  feeder  animals 
were  cheap,  and  there  was  a  margin  of  $1.50  to  $2  per  hundredweight 
between  purchase  and  sale  price,  the  undertaking  was  profitable. 
For  several  years  mill  screenings  secured  at  such  points  as  Minneap- 
olis and  St.  Paul  were  the  chief  feed  used,  except  in  Kansas  and 
Nebraska,  where  corn  and  hay  were  the  cheap  feeds.  But  the  de- 
mands for  screenings  widened,  prices  advanced,  corn  and  hay  became 
more  dear.  The  farmer  saw  opportunities  in  sheep  feeding  and 
began  to  bid  agamst  the  large  operators  for  feeders.  The  margins 
became  so  narrow  that  wide  adverse  fluctuations  in  the  mutton 
market  proved  such  a  hardship  on  large  operators  that  they  began 
to  close  out.  While  some,  notably  in  Kansas  and  Nebraska,  are  still 
following  the  practice,  it  is  predicted  that  their  day  will  soon  pass 
from  actuality  to  memory.  There  will  continue  to  be  some  feeding 
of  this  type  at  the  accumulating  centers  tributary  to  tlie  large  markets 
from  the  West,  but  beyond  that  very  few  if  any  sheep  raisers  in 
the  territory  under  review  will  engage  in  tliis  speculative  feeding. 

Within  a  comparatively  short  time  it  was  demonstrated  that  the 
farmer  was  in  better  position  to  feed  sheep  and  lambs  than  the  larger 
operator.  He  owns  the  plant  on  which  the  feeding  is  conducted  and 
he  has  a  great  deal  of  aftermath  in  stubble  and  stalk  fields  wliich  is 
of  little  or  no  value  unless  utilized  by  sheep.  He  would  rather  have 
the  fertility  returned  to  the  soil  in  form  of  sheep  manure  than  in 
decomposing  vegetable  matter.  He  feels  that  the  sheep  destroy 
weeds  and  weed  seeds  and  thus  render  a  service. 

The  practice  of  feeding  western  sheep  and  lambs  on  farms  has  been 
mcreasmg,  but  there  is  no  certainty  of  its  continued  growth.  The 
plan  of  feeding  is  partly  suggested  above.  In  the  main,  it  involves 
securing  the  feeders  early  enough  in  the  autumn  to  consume  the  fall 


5.58 


BE:P0ET  of  TAEITF  BOAKD  0,N   SCHEDU'IiB  K. 


growtli  of  grass  and  weeds.  The}^  are  usually  turned  into  the  corn- 
fields eitlier  before  or  after  the  corn  is  harvested.  In  these  fields  there 
may  or  may  not  be  a  growth  of  soy  beans  or  rape,  and  if  the  former,  it  is 
necessary  to  turn  them  in  before  time  to  harvest  the  com .  Sometimes 
they  are  allowed  to  harvest  the  conij  but  more  frequently  to  consume 
what  com  was  overlooked  in  gatheiing,  the  edible  part  of  tlie  stalks, 
and  theforaffe  crop  in  thecom,  if  any.  It  may  be  possible  to  market  the 
animals  fat  from  the  fields.  Some  do  it  regardless,  but  the  more  suc- 
cessful farmers  finish  with  harvested  feeds  if  necessary.  It  is  often 
stated  that  half  the  gain  necessary  to  put  the  animals  in  desirable  finish 
for  the  market  is  secured  in  the  fields.  To  do  this,  however,  requires 
good  judgment.  It  is  frequently  stated  at  the  Cliicago  market  tliat 
western  lambs  are  returned  to  the  market  no  fatter  or  heavier  than 
when  they  were  sent  to  the  country.  In  such  cases  it  almost  hi- 
variably  happens  that  the  owner  attempted  to  fatten  them  in  the 
fields  and  that  he  is  a  begirmer  in  the  business. 

Uncertainty  of  market  prices  is  the  great  disadvantage  under  which 
the  feeder  of  sheep  and  lambs  in  the  corn  belt  labors.  Often  what  a 
man  gains  one  year  he  loses  the  next.  With  many  the  wide  fluctua- 
tions in  price  and  the  difficulties  with  wliich  feeders  are  secured  in 
certaui  seasons  precludes  the  idea  of  making  slieep  feeding  a  regular 
feature  of  the  farm  operations.  In  the  faU  and  winter  of  1909-10 
the  feeders  of  western  sheep  and  lambs  in  lUmois  made  good  profits. 
In  the  fall  and  winter  of  1010-11  they  suffered  great  losses,  due  en- 
tirely to  a  declining  market.  Progressive  landowners  encouraged  their 
tenants  to  feed  sheep  m  1910-11.^  The  proposition  looked  encour- 
aging. The  result  cured  the  ambition  of  the  tenant  from  ever  wislmig 
to  try  such  a  tlung  again.  It  is  just  here  that  the  increase  of  the 
practice  of  feeding  sheep  is  threatened.  Farmers  do  not  propose  to 
conduct  it  at  a  loss  nor  do  they  intend  to  equip  themselves  to  engage 
in  a  practice  which  yields  large  profits  one  year  and  big  losses  the  next. 
Regular,  though  smaller,  profits  are  more  welcome. 

Sliould  the  market  become  more  stable,  so  tliat  the  feeder  could 
feel  assured  that  he  would  receive  the  margin  due  him  between  pur- 
chase and  sale  price,  there  would  be  no  doubt  as  to  the  continuance 
of  demand  for  western  feeding  sheep  and  lambs,  for  the  labor 
required  in  handhng  is  comparatively  small,  particularly  in  the  fall, 


when  demands  for  labor  are  greatest.  Sales  are  made  before  the  busy 
spring  season  begins,  so  that  at  no  point  is  there  a  serious  conflict  with 
tne  busy  seasons  on  the  farm.  The  period  lambs  are  kept  on  the  farm, 
©specially  if  they  are  fed,  can  be  adjusted  to  suit  the  convenience  of 
the  owner.  By  feeding  for  a  longer  period  large  quantities  of  roughage 
can  be  consumed.  If  it  is  advisable  to  keep  them  for  a  short  period, 
they  can  be  finished  in  from  70  to  90  days  by  the  liberal  use  of  grain. 
Western  sheep  and  lambs  are  healthy.  Native  sheep  and  lambs  on 
our  large  markets  are  not  classed  as  feeders.  They  have  been  tried, 
but  seldom  with  success.  The  rate  of  mortality  is  great,  because 
the}^  are  nearly  always  infested  with  internal  parasites  and  their 
ability  to  gain  is  very  uncertain.  Therefore  sheep  feeding  in  tlie 
corn  Delt  depends  almost  solely  upon  the  supply  of^  western  feeders. 


BEPOBT  OF  TAEIFi    BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


559 


CHARACTER   OF  THE    WOOL   PRODUCED   IN   THE    CORN   BELT. 

As  already  stated,  the  blood  of  the  English  mutton  breeds  prevails 
in  the  flocks  of  the  Middle  West.  Of  the  various  breeds  Sliropshires 
rank  first,  with  Oxford  and  Hampsliires  following.  These  breeds  are 
not  radically  different  in  character  of  wool,  and  hence  the  wool  prod- 
uct from  the  territory  in  question  is  fairly  uniform  in  grade. 

Buyers  who  are  informed  on  the  subject  concur  in  the  statement 
that  the  great  bulk  grades  one-fourth  and  three-eighths  blood  comb- 
ing. The  estimates  on  the  shrink  in  scouring  vary  from  35  to  48 
per  cent.  The  following  summaries  from  different  wool  dealers  indi- 
cate a  great  deal  with  respect  to  grade  and  shrink  in  scouring: 


Percent 

of  whole 

amount 

reoeivod 

repre- 

sentpd  by 

the  grade. 


Party  No.  1, Chicago, HL  (States ISrom  which 
d9iaestic  wools  uro  purchased,  Michigan, 
Wi«w>nsm,  iBdiana,  Illinois,  Missouri,  and 
Iowa). 


Party  No.  2,  Eichlaaid  Center,  Wis.  (lian- 
dlcs  wool  from  Wisconsin). 


Party  Xo.  3,  Cincinnal  !,Ohio  (handlrs  Vv'ool 
from  Ohio,  Kentucky,  Indiana,  and  Illi- 
nois). 

Party  No.  4,  Kansas  City,  Mo.  (spcnreswool 

from  Kansas,  Ncbroiika,  Iowa,  Missouri, 

and  Arkansas). 
Party  No,  5,  Fort  "Wayiio,  Iiid.  (answering 

for  Indiana"). 
Party  Ma  6,  Louisville, Ky. {answering  lor 

Kentucky). 


35 
15 
30 

10 
5 
5 
30 
40 
10 
10 
10 


Gradft. 


Per  cent 
sbrinkin 
scouring. 


15 
35 
20 
13 

5 


i-Wood  combing 

I-Wood  combing 

i-Wood  combing  and  dothini? 

Fine  Beiaine  and  fine  clothing 

Braid 

Burry  and  .seedy 

t blood  combing 
-  blood  combing 

Low  1-combing 

Cx)ramon  and  braid 

Rekxjtion^ 

g-blood  combing 

^-blood  combing 

Home  clothing,  little  lino  or  merino, 

some  cottcd, 
^-blood  combine:    -] -blood    combing 

(limitsd  Qiraiilily  nioliair). 


f-blood  combing-  J-blood  combing 


{5-conibiag 

|-combing 

Baby  combing. 

{-clothing 
Jraid 


40-48 
53-54 
43-43 
59-61 
43-45 

54 
47-18 

43 


35-10 
35-40 


45-50 
4(M5 


jO-tSi 


38 


Very  little  luster  and  semiiuster  wools  are  produced.  In  earlier 
days,  when  the  use  of  long-wool  blood  was  more  common,  these  types 
were  produced  in  considerable  quantities,  but  now  the  amount  is  so 
small  that  it  is  almost  a  negligible  factor. 

Because  of  the  practice  of  using  western  ewes  for  breeding  pur- 
l>oses  and  of  feeding  western  sheep  and  lambs  in  the  com  belt  a  con- 
siderable quantity  of  wool  is  clipped  from  sheep  shipped  m.  It  is 
maintained  that  this  wool  retains  essentially  the  same  characteristics 
as  western  wool  and  the  grades  depend  largely  upon  the  breeding. 
If  nearly  or  quite  all  the  fleece  is  grown  in  corn-belt  territory,  it  is 
usually  lighter  in  shrink  than  similar  wool  produced  on  the  range, 
because  it  is  not  so  heavily  impregnated  with  dirt.  Wlien  lambs  are 
brought  into  the  Middle  West  early  in  autumn  and  are  kept  on  farms 
until  shearing  time,  their  fleeces  are  usually  better  than  first-year 
fleeces  on  the  range  where  such  iambs  are  bred.  They  have  received 
better  feed  for  producing  a  long,  strong  staple  and  their  wool  is  usually 
cleaner  than  it  would  have  heen  had  they  remained  on  the  range. 


560 


EEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOAKD  03^  SCHEDinLE  K. 


BEPOBT  OF  TAEIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


561 


They  come  from  the  mountains  where  comparatively  little  dirt  gets 
into  the  wool  and  are  shipped  East  before  they  become  very  dirty. 

Often  the  wool  clipped  from  mature  feeding  sheep  is  less  desirable 
than  wool  of  similar  type  clipped  on  the  range.  For  example,  Montana 
wethers  may  be  shorn  m  March,  while  still  in  the  feed  lots,  or  just  before 
going  to  market.  Prior  to  this  they  were  shorn  in  Montana  in  the 
month  of  June.  Thus  their  growth  of  wool  is  only  9  months  old  and 
hence  short  and  on  that  account  less  desirable  than  the  clip  on  the 
range. 

The  greater  part  of  the  so-called  domestic  wool  is  bought  from  the 
grower  by  local  dealers  who  pay  practically  no  attention  to  grades 
and  not  a  great  deal  to  condition.  In  order  to  stay  on  good  terms 
with  everybody  they  usually  pay  a  uniform  price  for  wool  offered  at 
any  particular  time.  When  such  methods  are  employed,  the  less 
desirable  offerings  are  likely  to  fix  the  price,  and  the  grower  is  not 
educated  through  a  comparison  of  differences  when  he  markets  his 
wool.  However,  most  large  dealers  interviewed  note  considerable 
improvement  of  late  years  m  the  methods  of  handling  wool  by  the 
grower.  The  wools  are  cleaner  and  there  is  less  use  of  binder  twine 
(sisal)  than  formerly.  But  there  is  a  general  complaint  to  the  effect 
that  there  is  a  considerable  amount  of  straw  and  seeds  in  the  necks 
and  backs,  traceable  to  carelessness  in  methods  of  feeding.  Cer- 
tain dealers  still  complain  about  the  tags  wrapped  in  fleeces.  The 
improvement  noted  in  the  condition  of  fleeces  is  a  healthy  indication 
that  the  owner  lays  due  emphasis  on  the  importance  of  the  wool  in 
yielding  a  revenue  from  the  flock. 

StIMMABY  BY  STATES. 

Supplementing  the  foregoing  general  review  of  conditions  sur- 
rounding the  maintenance  of  sheep  in  the  Middle  Western  States, 
the  following  details  concerning  the  situation  as  it  exists  in  individual 
States  are  herewith  submitted. 

INDIANA. 

During  the  past  decade  there  has  been  a  pronounced  decrease  in 
the  number  of  famis  in  Indiana  reporting  sheep,  due  to  several 
influences.  In  1894.  or  close  to  that  dat€,  the  stomach  worm  played 
havoc  with  many  of  the  flocks,  and  ever  since  it  has  been  a  factor 
of  depression  to  the  industry.  The  wool  and  mutton  markets  have 
been  very  uneven  and  as  a  result  there  has  been  a  tendency  to  be  in 
and  out  of  the  business  instead  of  making  sheep  a  regular  feature  of 
farm  operations.  The  farmers  in  the  southern  part  of  the  State  have 
not  been  able  to  market  their  mutton  to  good  advantage  because  of 
there  being  no  near-by  market  to  handle  the  quality  of  mutton  they 
produce. 

Indianapolis  has  never  attamed  proportions  as  a  sheep  mart, 
and  the  Cmcinnati  and  Louisville  markets  prefer  the  Kentucky  and 
Tennessee  sheep  and  lambs.  It  is  said  that  the  Kentucky  lambs 
reaching  Louisville  have  been  fed  grain  in  connection  with  grass 
while  those  of  southern  Indiana  have  not.  The  grain-fed  lambs 
reach  market  without  heavy  shrinkage  iind  hence  look  better  than 


the  lambs  off  grass.     They  are  in  condition  to  be  reshipped  to  larger 
markets,  such  as  Chicago,  while  gaunt,  grass  lambs  are  not. 

Indiana  never  has  been  a  sheep  State  as  compared  with  her 
neighbors,  Ohio  and  Michigan.  At  an  earlier  day  when  merino  breeds 
were  popular  the  sheep  population  in  the  northeastern  part  of  the 
State  was  dense,  but  merinos  never  attained  wide  popularity  in  the 
south  half  of  the  State.  Just  why  is  difficult  to  state.  It  is  probably 
true  that  the  people  were  not  inclined  toward  sheep.  The  predatory 
dog  and  poor  marketing  facilities  were  drawbacks  which  failed  to 
bring  sheep  raising  to  the  same  level  as  other  lines  of  live-stock 
growing.  Twenty-five  to  thirty  years  ago  there  was  a  great  deal  of 
oak  and  beech  mast  that  furnished  feed  for  hogs,  and  in  those  days 
wheat,  cattle,  and  hogs  were  the  chief  products  sold  off  southern 
Indiana  farms.  There  is  a  large  area  in  this  part  of  the  State  that  is 
better  adapted  to  grazing  than  anything  else,  and  it  would  seem  that 
flock  husbandry  would  flourish  there  if  proper  encouragement  were 

given. 

Flocks  in  Indiana  are  principally  of  medium  wool  mutton  blood; 
Shropsliire  predominates,  but  there  are  numbers  of  flocks  showing 
Hampshire  and  Oxford  blood.  About  30  years  ago  there  was 
besides  merino  a  great  deal  of  Leicester  and  Cotswold  blood  in  the 
flocks,  but  these  have  been  almost  entirely  replaced  by  medium 
wool  breeds.  The  only  change  in  breeding  during  recent  yeai-s  has 
been  the  continuance  of  this  replacing  and  the  more  general  use  of 
pure-bred  sires  in  grade  flocks.  Most  flocks  bear  evidence  of  very 
good  breeding,  and  were  the  methods  of  growing  lambs  better  the 
owners  would  often  market  a  prime  product. 

As  stated  earlier  in  this  discussion,  it  is  not  the  custom  to  feed  grain 
to  lambs  in  the  southern  part  of  the  State.  It  is  common  to  market 
them  without  either  docking  or  castrating.  Too  often  the  lambing 
period  is  extended  over  8  to  10  weeks'  time.  Lambs  marketed  late 
often  become  infested  with  stomach  worm,  and  hence  reduced  in  flesh. 
All  these  factors  operate  to  secure  very  unsatisfactory  prices.  Prob- 
ably the  greater  number  of  farmers  look  upon  sheep  as  a  means  of 
I  utilizing  aftermath,  picking  up  waste,  and  cleaning  the  fa/m.  Very 
few  make  a  special  business  or  sheep  except  those  keeping  pure-bred 
» flocks,  and  hence  there  is  little  special  provision  for  making  the  prod- 
ucts yielded  by  the  flock  first  class  in  quality. 

The  majority  of  lambs  are  born  in  March  and  April.  Marketing 
begins  late  in  June  and  continues  until  about  the  middle  of  December. 
The  fall  offerings  average  between  70  and  80  pounds.  This  light  weight 
bears  out  the  statement  made  above  that  the  methods  employed  are 
not  the  best  for  producing  a  prime  product. 

A  number  of  farmers  sliip  in  western  ewes,  breed  them,  raise  a  crop 
of  lambs,  and  sell  the  whole  outfit  on  the  market.  Others  retain  the 
ewe  lambs  from  these  ewes  and  breed  them  for  one  year,  then  sell  them 
all  off.  Very  few  permanent  flocks  are  built  on  a  foundation  of  west- 
ern ewes.  There  is  no  evidence  at  hand  to  indicate  whether  the  use 
of  western  ewes  for  breeding  purposes  is  increasing  or  decreasing. 

Western  wethers  and  lambs  are  bought  and  fattened  for  the  mar- 
ket. As  a  rule  the  lambs  are  fattened  on  corn  and  clover  hay  in  the 
dry  lot.  The  wethers  are  either  fed  in  the  same  wav  or  allowed  to 
run  in  the  cornfield  for  a  time  and  then  placed  in  the  lot  for  finishing. 
It  is  doubtful  whether  sheep  and  lamb  feeding  is  on  the  increasa 

32080'— H.  Doc.  342,  62-2,  vol  1- 


562 


BEPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


There  is  much  variation  in  it  from  year  to  year.  Last  year  (1910-11) 
was  a  record  breaker  for  large  numbers  brought  in  and  finished.  Most 
of  tlie  parties  handUng  them  lost  money,  and  consequently  few  are 
feeding  this  year. 

The  bulk  of  the  wool  sheared  from  Indiana  flocks  grades  throe- 
eighths  and  one-fourth  blood  combing.  It  is  said  that  there  has  been 
some  improvement  during  recent  years  in  the  method  of  preparing 
It  for  market.  However,  there  is  still  much  carelessness  m  tlio 
quahty  of  twhie  used  for  tying,  and  hi  allowing  foreign  materials, 
such  as  chaff,  burrs,  etc.,  to  get  into  the  wool.  Most  of  the  wool  is 
marketed  through  dealers  who  make  little  discrimination  for  varia- 
tions in  quahty  and  condition  of  the  different  offerings.  In  many 
cases  there  are  two  sets  of  middlemen — a  country  buyer  who  sells  to  a 
large  dealer  in  some  town  who  in  turn  sliips  to  mills  and  commission 
houses. 

Most  farmers  keeping  sheep  have  permanent  pasture  although  a 
few  are  kept  on  farms  tliat  are  entirely  cultivated.  In  the  southern 
part*  of  the  State  particularly  the  flocks  are  in  the  fields  except  durhig 
the  most  stormy  weather,  and  a  great  deal  of  the  mamtenance  in  the 
winter  and  all  of  it  in  summer  is  gathered  by  the  slieep  from  the 
various  fields  on  tlie  farm.  It  is  necessary  to  feed  some  grain  a  httle 
wliiie  before  and  after  lambing,  particularly  if  the  lambs  are  born 
early.  Usually  some  hay  is  fed  during  the  winter  months  to  supple- 
ment the  feed  gathered  in  the  fields. 

The  agronomy  department,  college  of  agriculture,  Purdue  Uni- 
versity, estimates  the  cost  of  produchig  corn  at  25  cents  per  bushel 
or  $13  per  acre,  and  silage  $1.50  to  $1.75  per  ton.  Com  is  the  chief 
grain  fed  to  sheep  although  a  quantity  of  oats  is  fed.  Silage  is  com- 
ing into  more  general  use  all  over  the  State  and  will  naturally  enter 
into  the  winter  ration  of  the  flock. 

Woven-wire  fence  is  becoming  more  general  all  over  the  State, 
which  is  a  factor  that  ought  to  encourage  a  greater  prevalence  of 
flocks.  As  yet  Mttle  attention  has  been  given  to  making  these  fences 
dog  proof.  In  the  muimg  sections  of  the  State  practically  every 
miner  owns  a  dog,  and  consecmentlv  sheep  have  been  forced  out  of  a 
large  area  on  tliis  account.  Tlie  dog  law  is  a  very  poor  protection 
to  the  sheep  owner,  as  it  specifies  that  no  more  than  market  value 
can  be  secured  for  losses  sustained.  This  is  especially  discouraging 
to  the  breeder  of  pure-bred  sheep,  and  not  sufficient  for  tlie  owner  of 
a  tlirif  ty  flock  of  high  grades. 

About  72  per  cent  of  the  land  in  Indiana  is  listed  as  improved 
farms.  Of  the  remainder  there  are  rough  areas  on  wliich  such  ani- 
mals as  sheep  would  do  well,  and  undoubtedly  there  are  areas  on 
many  of  the  farms  listed  as  improved  that  are  better  adapted  to 
grazmg  sheep  than  to  anytlung  else. 

ILLINOIS. 

Ilhnois  has  never  been  thickly  populated  with  sheep.  Her  greatest 
numbers  were  reported  in  the  census  of  1870.  There  was  a  noticeable 
thinning  out  in  the  next  10  vears,  and  since  then  numbers  have 
remained  about  stationary.  At  one  time  (about  1870)  the  north- 
eastern comer  and  that  region  along  the  Alississippi  about  midway  in 
the  State  were  the  parts  reporting  greatest  numbers,  but  to-day  the 


REPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOAED  OK  SCHEDULE  K. 


563 


distribution  is  about  the  same  for  all  parts.  The  preliminary  report 
of  the  Thirteenth  Census  gives  26,262  farms  reportmg  sheep,  which  is 
an  increase  of  840  over  the  report  of  1900.  There  was  an  mcrease  of 
32,265  in  the  number  of  sheep,  which  is  sufficient  to  indicate  that  the 
industry  held  its  own  during  the  past  decade. 

lUinois  has  a  great  deal  of  hill  land  bordering  the  rivers  and  smaller 
streams  which  is  well  adapted  to  sheep  husbandry.  In  the  southern 
part  and  the  northwestern  corner  are  largely  unglaciated  rough  areas 
which  seemingly  are  especially  adapted  to  grazing.  But  80  per  cent 
of  the  State  can  be  cultivated,  and  the  greater  part  of  this  is  level  or 
gentlj'  undulating  prairie.  That  part  lying  north  of  the  unglaciated 
area  in  the  south  and  known  as  the  lower  and  upper  lUinoisan  glacia- 
tions  is  flat  and  with  such  a  subsoil  that  it  does  not  drain  well.  Sheep 
are  kept  on  this  land,  but  because  of  poor  drainage  it  is  not  regarded 
as  ideal  for  them.  North  of  this  hes  the  com  belt  proper  of  Illinois. 
This  area  varies  from  level  to  undulating  excef)t  along  the  streams, 
where  it  is  hilly.  Practically  all  of  the  com  land  is  sufficiently  well 
drained  to  keep  sheep,  but  is  so  valuable  for  grain  growing  that  there 
is  a  tendency  to  place  so  much  of  it  under  cultivation  as  to  result  in  a 
shortage  of  summer  feed.  A  farmer  o^vning  860  acres  of  such  land 
was  asked  whether  the  maintenance  of  farm  flocks  as  a  regular 
feature  of  agricultural  operations  is  on  the  increase  or  decrease  in  his 
community,  and  he  replied:  "On  the  decrease,  because  of  the  great 

f)rofits  of  grain  farming.  I  got  over  $50  per  acre  for  a  field  of  com 
ast  year."  This  man  has  kept  sheep  all  his  hfe.  His  father  kept 
them  in  large  numbers  on  the  same  land  where  grain  farming  has 
become  so  profitable  and  where  the  son  now  keeps  only  100  to  500 
head.  The  rise  in  the  price  of  grain  and  the  adaptatihty  of  the  land  for 
growing  it  have  changed  the  attitude  toward  sheep  raising.  In  former 
days  the  flock  was  kept  to  return  profits  through  the  consumption  of 
grass  crops ;  to-day  it  is  kept  to  consume  noxious  weeds  in  the  stubble 
and  com  fields,  to  gather  what  otherwise  would  be  wasted,  to  return 
fertility  to  the  soil,  and  to  yield  a  fair  profit  on  the  investment.  It 
must  do  all  these  tilings  on  such  lands  if  it  would  not  be  discarded. 

A  great  deal  of  this  valuable  land  is  operated  by  tenants,  who,  as  a 
rule,  are  either  averse  to  handling  sheep  or  not  financially  able  to 
invest  in  thein.  Besides,  much  of  it  is  not  fenced  to  keep  sheep 
within  bounds,  so  that  the  renter  could  not  keep  them  if  he  would.  It 
is  only  natural  for  the  tenant  to  seek  systems  of  agriculture  that  will 
yield  the  largest  immediate  income  for  the  labor  and  capital  he  can 
mvest,  and  to  keep  moving  to  places  where  such  opportunities  are 
presented.  Moreover,  he  is  usually  subjected  to  sigmng  up  under  a 
one-year  lease,  which  gives  him  httle  encouragement  to  invest  in  five 
stock  even  if  other  conditions,  such  as  adequate  fencing  and 
buildings,  and  prices  for  stock,  are  tempting.  His  assurance  as  to 
period  of  tenure  covers  such  a  short  time  that  heavy  invest- 
ment in  live  stock  would  smack  purely  of  speculation,  the  outcome  of 
which  could  hardly  be  guessed  at.  In  the  discussion  above  there  is  a 
lurking  suspicion  that  the  landlord  is  at  fault  fully  as  much  as  the 
tenant  with  respect  to  keeping  live  stock.  However,  we  can  not 
know  until  the  inclination  and  abifity  of  the  tenant  to  handle  animals 
are  determined. 

In  the  absence  of  full  returns  from  the  1910  census  it  is  not  possible 
definitely  to  determine  whether  the  sheep  industry  in  Illinois  is  disap- 


664 


BEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE   K. 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF   BOARD   ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


565 


pearing  in  some  localities  and  increasing  in  others.  Some  observers 
report  tliat  all  the  large  flocks  of  25  years  ago  are  gone.  This  is 
undoubtecOy  true,  and  they  state  further  that  there  are  more  small 
flocks  ranging  in  numbt^j  from  10  to  50  head;  others  report  very  Httlo 
cliange;  some  tell  of  a  decrease,  while  fully  as  many  more  declare  that 
the  industry  is  on  the  increase.  There  is  a  slight  indication  that 
flocks  are  chminishing  in  the  dairy  regions  in  the  north  and  in  the  best 
of  the  com  belt.  If  this  be  true,  then  it  has  increased  in  the  regions 
where  the  soil  is  not  so  fertile. 

According  to  the  census  report  for  1910  the  average  number  of 
ewes  ke|>t  on  farms  reporting  sheep  was  22.4.  One  hundred  and 
twenty-nine  acres  represents  the  average  farm  in  size.  Putting  these 
together  it  looks  as  though  the  flock  is  maintained  principally  to  keep 
do\ra  weed  gro\i^h  and  to  utilize  what  can  not  profitably  be  consumed 
by  other  live  stock.  There,  however,  is  a  small  percentage  of  flocks 
wluch  are  made  a  re^lar  feature  of  the  farm  to  help  in  the  consump- 
tion of  grass  and  other  crops. 

Shropshire  and  other  Down  blood  prevails  in  most  of  the  flocks. 
Minois,  like  her  sister  States,  Iowa,  Missouri,  and  Indiana,  has  a 
large  percentage  of  flocks  h&d\y  mixed  in  breeding.  Like  these 
States,  too,  she  has  dropped  merino  for  the  British  mutton  breeds, 
and  for  the  same  reasons,  namely,  that  the  decline  in  price  of  wool 
and  the  rise  in  price  of  land  made  the  production  of  wool  no  longer 
profitable.  Nowhere  in  the  State  is  the  production  of  wool  the 
primary  object,  but  it  is  regarded  as  a  necessary  consideration  with 
lamb  growing  to  make  sheep  pay.  In  the  selection  of  breedmg  ewes 
attention  is  usually  given  to  their  shearing  qualities. 

As  stated  above,  mutton  blood  predominates,  and  of  the  mutton 
breeds  the  Shropshire  has  the  lead.  The  longwools,  more  generally 
used  15  or  20  years  a^o,  are  disappearing.  There  are  a  few  toward 
the  south  and  west  side  of  the  State.  Native  merino  grades  are  kept 
in  a  few  sections,  but  not  to  any  great  extent.  Western  ewes  are 
used  in  various  sections,  and  it  seems  as  though  this  practice  is 
increasing;  but  it  is  doubtful  whether  these  ewes  fall  into  the  hands 
of  men  who  intend  regularly  to  make  sheep  a  feature  of  the  farm. 
Such  circumstances  as  an  unusual  amount  of  grass  or  clover  land  for 
a  certain  year  may  cause  the  owner  to  buy  them  to  raise  a  crop  of 
lambs  and  wool  while  they  consume  this  surplus,  which  is  not  fre- 
quently to  be  found  on  the  farm. 

The  use  of  pure-bred  rams  is  becoming  more  general,  but  grade 
rams  of  inferior  market  type  are  stiO  too  widely  tolerated.  The 
man  with  the  small  flock  often  feels  he  can  not  afford  to  pay  for  a 
pure-bred  ram,  and  hence  takes  an  ordinary  grade  from  his  neighbor 
on  basis  of  open-market  quotations.  Tms  statement  applies  not 
only  to  Illinois,  but  also  to  her  sister  States. 

Most  lambs  are  bom  in  March  and  April ;  some  earlier  and  a  few 
later.  The  plan  is  to  have  the  lambs  bom  before  the  spring  work 
becomes  pressing,  so  that  there  may  be  time  to  care  for  them.  If 
the  owner  has  good  early  grass,  he  may  delay  lambing  until  April,  so 
that  the  lambs  may  early  supplement  mother's  milk  with  the  tender 
growth.  It  is  usual  to  raise  from  90  to  120  percent.  .  Most  growers 
woidd  say  they  average  100  per  cent  at  market  tunc.  One  criticism 
which  can  be  frequently  made  is  that  the  lambing  period  extends 


II^Hll 


m 


over  too  much  time,  making  the  crop  uneven  in  age  and  size,  and 
hence  more  difficult  to  market  than  a  uniform  lot. 

The  marketing  extends  from  early  summer  to  the  winter  months. 
A  few  owners  ship  direct  to  market,  but  the  greater  number  of  lambs 
are  gathered  up  by  local  traders  or  drovers.  It  is  difficult  to  tell  who 
is  at  the  greater  disadvantage  in  trading,  the  drover  or  the  owner. 
The  owner  usually  does  not  have  many  buyers  for  his  lambs — the 
local  butcher  is  hardly  a  consideration — because  the  country  and 
small  towns  are  very  light  consumers  of  mutton,  and  to  this  extent 
he  is  at  the  mercy  of  the  drover.  But  the  owner  insists  on  selling 
his  whole  offering,  some  of  which  may  be  desirable  from  the  market 
standpoint  and  the  remainder  not.  The  offerings  are  small,  and  pur- 
chases have  to  be  made  from  several  sources  before  a  shipment  can 
be  made  up.  This  is  another  drawback  in  securing  a  uniform  and 
desirable  lot.  Without  attempting  to  determine  who  is  at  the  worse 
disadvantage,  it  is  sufficient  to  say  that  difficulty  in  marketing  satis- 
factorily discourages  a  great  many  in  the  business,  and  it  is  one  of  the 
factors  retarding  the  industry.  Most  of  the  lambs  are  sold  from  the 
grass,  without  having  received  grain.  Those  who  lamb  in  March 
usually  feed  grain  to  the  ewes,  and  frequently  to  the  lambs  in  creeps. 
When  grass  comes,  usually  all  grain  feeding  is  stopped,  and  not 
resumed  unless  the  lambs  are  not  marketed  until  late  autumn  or 
early  winter. 

Tne  greater  part  of  the  shearing  is  done  in  May.  The  average 
weight  of  fleece  is  7  pounds.  According  to  the  census  for  1910,  there 
were  661,484  wool-producing  sheep  in  the  State.  A  small  percent- 
age of  the  wool  is  shipped  direct  to  large  wool  houses,  but  most 
or  it  is  gathered  in  by  local  dealers,  who  are  not  inclined  to  pay 
for  it  according  to  condition  and  grade.  In  fact,  few  of  them 
know  anything  about  grading.  Each  fleece  is  tied  separately,  and 
the  condition  m  wliich  the  wool  is  marketed  is  improving.  From 
those  farms  where  there  is  little  or  no  pasture  and  the  sheep  are  kept 
in  odd  lots,  stubble,  and  cornfields  the  wool  is  likely  to  be  hurry. 
The  bulk  of  the  wool  grades  one-fourth  .and  three-eighths  combing. 
A  very  small  quantity  of  luster  and  demiluster  wool  is  produced,  but 
so  little  that  it  is  hardly  worth  comment.  There  is  considerable  wool 
from  western  sheep  sheared  within  and  marketed  from  the  State  each 
year.  So  far  as  grade  is  concerned,  it  is  essentially  the  same  as  it 
would  have  been  m  the  West,  except  length  of  staple,  which  is  often 
shorter,  because  it  is  clipped  before  it  has  attained  12  months'  growth. 

The  pasturing  season  in  Illinois  extends  from  May  1  to  November 
1  in  most  of  the  State.  The  time  may  be  a  little  shorter  in  the  north- 
em  part  and  longer  toward  the  south.  It  is  probably  true  that  the 
great  majority  of  owners  never  have  their  sneep  out  of  the  fields 
except  incase  of  deep  mud  or  snow.  In  some  of  the  very  best  com-» 
mercial  flocks,  harvested  feeds  are  not  fed  before  lambing  time, 
except  during  storms,  when  running  in  the  fields  is  not  advisable. 
In  others  a  little  is  fed  before  lambing  starts,  and  all  usually 
feed  grain  and  roughage  after  lambing  until  the  pasture  season 
opens.  Probably  the  amount  of  grain  averages  1  pound  per  ewe 
per  day  made  up*^  chiefly  of  com  and  oats,  and  the  roughage  about  3 
pounds  (clover  hay) ,  provided  the  ewe  is  kept  in  dry  lot.  The  period 
of  regularly  feeding  harvested  feeds  would  not  be  over  60  days.  The 
cost  of  feeding  a  ewe  for  a  year  together  with  her  lamb  until  it  reaches 


666 


BEPOET  OF   TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


Miarketable  age,  according  to  usual  estimates,  varies  between  $2  and 
$3.50. 

The  estimates  on  tlie  income  from  the  ewe  will  approximate  $4  for 
the  lamb  and  $1.50  for  the  fleece.  There  are  estimates  which  come 
on  either  side  of  these  liscures,  and  not  enough  of  definite  data  are 
available  to  make  a  rehable  approximation. 

There  are  retarding  influences  to  flock  husbandry  in  Illinois.  Like 
practically  every  other  Middle  West  State,  the  predatory  dog  receives 
emphatic  mention  as  a  curse  to  the  cause.  There  are  many  Isolated 
owners  who  are  powerless  to  organize  against  this  enemy.  The  stom- 
ach worm  has  been  a  serious  menace  for  a  number  of  years.  As  to 
whether  sheepmen  will  be  able  to  keep  this  pest  under  control  has 
not  yet.  been  settled,  but  it  is  undoubtedly  true  that  many  have 
given  up  sheep  raising  because  of  it.  Wliere  flocks  are  badly  iifested 
profits  are  out  of  the  question. 

A  great  many  farms  are  not  fenced  to  restrain  sheep,  and  it  is 
argued  that  the  owner  can  not  afl'ord  to  fence,  particularly  if  he  ia 
practicing  grain  farming.  It  may  be  said  that  established  practice 
IS  another  retarding  iniluence.  As  stated  early  in  this  discussion, 
the  State  never  has  been  thickly  populated  with  sheep.  It  is  common 
for  men  to  remark  that  they  are  entirely  without  experience  with 
sheep,  and  hence  doubtful  as  to  their  ability  to  handle  them.  This 
doubt  keeps  them  out  of  the  business. 

Sheep  feeding  is  on  the  increase.  It  is  principally  in  the  hands  of 
farmers  who  buy  one  or  a  few  carloads  to  clean  up  the  farm.  How- 
ever, there  is  a  great  deal  of  feeding  '4n  transit,"  ^liich  is  more  or  less 
speculative  in  nature.  Tliis  sort  of  feeding  is  done  mainly  at  the 
accumulating  or  feeding  stations  located  on  the  railroads  tributarv  to 
Chicago  from  the  West.  Sometimes  the  sheep  on  feed  are  owned  by 
the  growers,  who  not  being  equipped  to  feed  at  home  move  them  into 
the  corn  belt  and  finish  them  before  marketing.  But  often  they  are 
o^^Tied  by  speculators  who  wish  to  be  within  easy  distance  of  the 
market,  so  that  they  may  avail  themselves  of  any  sudden  advance  in 
prices.  Not  infrequently  sjieep  and  lambs  are  shipped  into  these 
stations  half  fat  for  the  ostensible  purpose  of  topping  and  marketing 
the  fatter  ones  whenever  the  market  suits.  Thus  the  feeding  period 
ranges  from  a  few  days  up  to  about  a  hundred,  the  full  time  necessary 
for  sheep  or  lambs  in  the  dry  lot  to  take  on  a  good  market  finish. 
Just  what  this  type  of  feeding  means  to  the  State  is  difficult  to  deter- 
mine, but  probably  not  a  great  deal  above  the  gratifying  sense  of 
furnishing  me  locations  where  thousands  of  sheep  are  housed  and  fed. 
Most  of  the  feed  is  shipped  in;  all  the  sheep  come  from  the  western 
markets;  the  manure  produced  is  manufactured  into  fertilizer  and 
shipped  East  and  South. 

-  The  feeding  done  by  farmers  is  of  significance  to  the  State,  because 
home-erown  crops  are  consumed  on  the  land  and  a  part  of  the  fertihty 
utilized  in  producing  these  crops  returned  to  the  soil.  The  methods 
followed  vary,  but  in  nearly  all  cases  one  of  the  cliief  objects  is  to  have 
the  sheep  or  lambs  eat  the  fall  growth  on  the  meadow  lands,  in  the 
stubbie  fields,  and  to  clean  up  the  stalk  fields.  One  careful  farmer 
estimates  that  his  buskers  are  leaving  5  bushels  of  corn  per  acre  in  the 
field  this  year.  The  yield  is  much  lower  than  usuaL  But  tliia  5 
bushels  per  acre,  together  with  the  stalks,  furnishes  a  great  deal  of 
feed  toward  fattening  lambs.    Often  rape  is  sown  in  the  corn  at  the 


BEPORT  OF   TARIFF   BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


567 


last  cultivation,  and  this,  together  with  the  stalks,  makes  excellent 
feed. 

Both  short  and  long  feeding  periods  are  in  vogue.  If  the  supply  of 
green  feed,  such  as  blue  grass,  3'oung  clover,  and  meadow,  is  snort,  it 
may  not  be  advisable  to  feed  for  a  long  period,  for  some  of  tliis  feed  is 
considered  beneficial  and  almost  necessary  throughout  the  feeding 
period  unless  the  lambs  are  moved  into  dry  lots  and  red  clover  hay  ana 
perhaps  silage  along  with  the  grain. 


IOWA. 


Iowa  has  never  been  considered  a  State  strongly  inclined  toward 
sheep.  They  were  first  introduced  at  the  southeastern  corner  of  the 
State  from  where  the  distribution  gradually  extended  to  the  north- 
west. Only  one  census,  that  for  1900,  shows  a  pronounced  thinning 
out  of  sheep  in  Iowa.  Barring  this  period,  the  growth  of  the 
industry  has  been  giadual  and  healthy. 

The  preliminary  statement  of  the  Thirteenth  Census  shows  an 
appreciable  increase  in  sheep  husbandry  in  Iowa  over  that  given  in 
the  census  report  for  1900.  The  farms  reporting  sheep  and  lambs 
numbered  21,810  as  against  18,788  for  1900;  the  number  of  sheep 
reported  w^s  1,145,549  as  against  1,056,718.  The  report  for  1910 
shows  an  increase  of  100,583  ewes  but  a  decrease  of  23,218  lambs. 
Tliis  undoubtedly  shows  that  the  census  of  1910  was  taken  before  the 
close  of  the  lambing  period  for  the  year  while  that  of  1900  was  not. 

The  sheep  first  introduced  into  Iowa  were  chiefly  merinos.  The 
returns  on  their  wool  made  them  profitable  until  pnces  declined  and 
Values  for  land  rose.  When  this  time  came  and  when  mutton  pro- 
duction became  an  appreciable  factor  the  English  mutton  breeds  were 
introduced.  The  rams  of  the  mutton  breeds  were  Used  on  the  merino 
ewes  and  good  market  lambs  were  produced  by  this  cross.  Grade 
merino  flocks  are  still  numerous  in  the  southern  and  southeastern 
parts  of  the  State  and  they  yield  good  returns  in  market  lambs  and 
wool.  However,  the  prevailmg  blood  is  Shrepshire,  Hampsliire,  and 
Oxford.  There  are  many  good  grade  flocks  of  these  breeds  and  the  use 
of  pure-bred  rams  is  becoming  more  general.  Iowa  has  quite  a  large 
number  of  breeders  of  pure-ored  sheep  who  are  well  organized  for 
promoting  the  Use  of  pure-bred  sires. 

It  may  be  said  that  the  increase  in  sheep  in  Iowa  during  the  past 
10  years  is  the  result  of  the  growing  realization  that  the  small  flock 
is  profitable  on  the  average  farm.  Agricultural  educators  have 
preached  all  over  the  State  for  the  small  flock  for  keeping  the  farm 
clean  of  weeds  and  for  returning  a  good  profit  when  weU  handled. 
At  the  agricultural  college  and  in  the  various  centers  where  short 
courses  in  agriculture  have  been  given,  the  desirability  of  a  flock  of 
sheep  as  a  feature  in  a  diversified  system  of  farming  has  been  urged 
upon  the  people  to  such  an  extent  that  they  are  gradually  taking  up 
the  proposition.  The  universality  of  the  hog  in  Iowa  has  made 
conditions  more  favorable  for  keeping  sheep.  The  necessity  for 
fencing  in  the  fields  and  pastures  to  provide  a  run  for  hogs  has  resulted 
in  inclosures  suitable  for  restraining  sheep.  Another  factor  making 
conditions  more  favorable  is  a  law  enacted  by  the  State  assembly  a 
few  years  since  which  provides  that  line  fences  shall  be  sheep  and  nog 
proof  if  either  or  both  parties  so  desire.    Iowa  has  plowed  up  many 


568 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


of  her  permanent  pastures  in  recent  yeare  because  of  the  high  pricea 
ruling  for  corn,  and  it  is  barely  })ossible  that  the  restriction  of  pasture 
Ms  worked  toward  increasing  the  number  of  sheep  and  diminishing 
the  number  of  cattle.  Fortunately,  however,  for  Iowa  the  general 
use  of  the  sdo  haa  come  in  before  the  numbers  of  live  stock  have 
greatly  dimmished,  and  the  farmers  are  thus  enabled  to  devote 
greater  areas  to  crops  without  having  to  reduce  their  live  stock.  The 
use  of  silage  warrants  better  winter  care  for  the  flock,  and  through  its 
use  Iowa  undoubtedly  will  gain  in  its  wool  and  lamb  crops. 

The  farms  of  Iowa  average  158  acres  in  area.  There  has  been  a 
tendency  for  farms  to  increase  in  size,  but  it  is  thought  that  a  reverse 
movement  will  occur  before  long.  Many  farmers  have  sold  out  and 
taken  residence  upon  the  cheap  lands  of  the  Northwest  only  to  find 
disai)pomtment  m  income  and  the  mode  of  living.  To  cure  their 
discontent  it  is  })redictcd  that  they  will  return  to  their  home  State 
and  invest  m  land.  If  this  prediction  proves  to  be  correct  there  is  no 
indication  that  flocks  will  increase  in  size,  and  perhaps  they  will 
become  smaller.  The  only  assumption  that  can  reasonably  be  made 
IS  that  the  sheen  raised  in  Iowa  will  be  grown  in  small  flocks  where 
lambs  are  the  cliief  consideration  and  wool  is  an  important  sui)ple- 
ment.  Growers  are  not  unmindful  of  the  returns  coming  from  the 
wool,  as  evidenced  by  their  care  in  the  selection  of  breeding  stock  that 
will  shear  well.  ^ 

DairyinF  is  increasing  in  Iowa,  but  students  of  the  situation  do  not 
feel  that  this  industry  will  crowd  sheep  out.  Much  of  the  milk  goes 
to  the  ice-cream  trade  and  not  to  supply  large  cities  ^ith  milk  as  in 
Wisconsin.  The  cheese  industry  is  a  negligible  factor,  with  small 
probability  that  it  will  ever  attain  large  proportions.  Hence  it  is  clear 
that  dairyii^  in  Iowa  is  less  intensive  in  tvpe  than  that  of  Wis- 
consin and,  further,  the  farmers  are  not  so  tlioroughly  imbued  >\'ith 
tiie  idea  of  dairying. 

According  U>  the  preliminar}-  report  of  the  Thirteenth  Census,  the 
average  number  of  ewes  in  Iowa  on  farms  reporting  sheep  was  31. 
The  predominance  of  blood  ranks  in  about  the  following  order- 
Shropshire,  mixed  or  indefinite,  Oxford,  Hampshire,  merino,  Cots- 
wold,  and  Lincoln.  Most  of  the  lambing  occurs  in  March  and 
April— some  is  delayed  until  May.  It  is  estimated  that  most  growers 
raise  1 00  lambs  to  1 00  ewes.  Marketing  begins  in  June  and  continues 
untu  late  in  autumn. 

Shearing  begins  in  April  and  continues  up  into  May.  The  better 
flocks  average  about  8  pounds  per  head,  but  the  figure  for  the  State 
IS  something  like  6.75  pounds.  The  preliminary  census  report  for 
1910  gives  769,917  wool-producing  sheep  for  Iowa.  This  would  make 
the  total  wool  output  for  the  year  about  5,196,940  pounds.  Of  this 
about  75  per  cent  is  of  a  type  known  as  Shropshire,  whicli  grades 
one-fourth  and  three-eighths  blood  combing,  the  greater  part  being 
one-fourth  blood.  In  the  southern  and  southeastern  parts  of  the 
State  there  is  a  quantity  of  wool  wliich  grades  almost  identically  with 
the  Ohio  Delaines.  In  the  northern  part  there  is  a  great  deal  of  wool 
which  borders  between  one-fourth  blood  and  common  combing. 
Twenty-five  years  ago  Iowa  produced  a  considerable  quantity  of  long 
wool  wMch  might  be  graded  as  luster  wool  and  the  crosses  of  long- 
wool  sires  on  native  stock  as  demiluster,  but  there  is  comparatively 
little  of  either  to-day.    The  one-fourth   and  three-eighths   blood 


REPOET  OP  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


569 


combing  wools  shrink  about  47  per  cent  in  scouring  and  the  fine  wool 
about  65  per  cent. 

There  has  been  improvement  in  the  methods  of  growing  and  pre- 
paring wool  for  market.  The  flocks  receive  better  winter  care,  wliicli 
results  in  a  stronger,  more  even  staple,  and  the  use  of  soft  twine  for 
tying  fleeces  is  more  general  than  formerly.  Good  packing  seems  to 
vary  with  prices  for  wool.  If  prices  are  low,  more  tags  and  other 
foreign  material  are  in  evidence  than  when  prices  are  high.  In  other 
words,  it  would  appear  that  the  grower  attempts  to  make  up  in  weight 
what  he  loses  in  price  per  pound.  There  is  a  quantity  of  western 
wool  clipped  in  Iowa.  A  number  of  western  ewes  are  brought  in  for 
the  production  of  lambs,  and  not  a  few  western  lambs  are  sheared 
before  they  are  marketed.  The  amount  of  tliis  kind  of  wool  marketed 
each  year  is  a  very  uncertain  quantity.  The  feeder  may,  because  of 
weather  or  market  conditions,  be  led  to  shear  his  lambs  one  year  and 
not  the  next. 

The  Schuerman  Woolen  Mills,  of  Des  Moines,  send  agents  through 
the  State  and  purchase  wool  direct  from  the  grower.  Large  clips  of 
western  wool  are  often  purchased  by  representatives  of  large  wool 
houses,  but  a  great  deal  of  the  wool  in  the  State  is  gathered  in  by  local 
dealers.  A  representative  of  the  Schuerman  mills  stated  that  they  usu- 
ally pay  the  grower  1  cent  per  pound  more  than  the  local  dealer  does. 
Sheep  in  Iowa  are,  as  a  whole,  on  pasture  from  May  until  November, 
inclusive.  Many  farmers  have  them  on  the  land  all  the  year  except 
in  times  of  deep  mud  and  snow.  Harvested  feeds,  such  as  clover  hay, 
com  stover,  corn  silage,  corn,  and  oats,  have  to  be  provided  for  the 
winter  months.  Very  little  grain  is  fed  before  the  lambing  period. 
The  estimates  placed  on  the  value  of  blue-grass  pasture,  of  wliich 
nearly  all  farms  have  an  area,  vary  widely.  In  the  southern  part  of 
the  State,  on  land  ranging  from  $60  to  $75  per  acre  in  value,  this  grass 
rents  from  $2  to  $4  per  acre  for  the  season. 

Dogs  and  wolves  are  liindrances  to  the  growth  of  flocks  in  Iowa. 
An  attempt  has  been  made  to  get  a  more  adequate  dog  law,  but  without 
success.  Doubtless  further  effort  is  forthcoming  and  will  continue 
until  a  satisfactory  statute  is  made.  Stomach  worms  are  a  dreaded 
pest  and  often  wreck  a  prospect  for  prime  market  lambs.  Undoubt- 
edly they  have  checked  the  growth  of  the  industry. 

Sheep  feeding  in  Iowa  is  widely  engaged  in.  The  growth  in  tliis 
practice  has  been  pronounced  during  the  past  decade.  Whether  it 
will  or  should  remain  a  regular  and  prominent  feature  is  a  matter  in 
wliich  opinions  differ.  It  is  speculative  in  nature,  but  on  the  whole 
profitable  after  the  operator  has  gained  some  experience  at  handling 
feeder  sheep  and  lambs.  The  plan  almost  universally  followed  is  to 
turn  the  feeders  into  the  pastures,  and  clover,  stubble,  and  corn  fields 
for  a  period  of  from  two  to  three  months.  Often  tliey  are  marketed 
direct  from  the  fields,  but  some  feed  in  the  barns  after  the  fields  have 
been  eaten  out.  The  criticism  often  leveled  at  Iowa  feeder  operators 
is  that  they  do  not  finish  their  lambs  before  marketing.  It  is  claimed 
that  because  of  lack  of  shelter  and  sometimes  of  harvested  feeds,  the 
lambs  are  rushed  to  market  when  the  first  snow  flies,  regardless  of 
condition.  In  recent  years  many  consignments  have  been  in  the 
hands  of  beginners  who  fail  to  put  appreciable  gains  on  their  lambs 
and  this  has  caused  the  market  to  ridicule  the  farmer  feeder.     But 


870 


BEPOBT  OF  TAHIFF  BOABD  ON   SCHEDtJLE  K. 


BEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDTJLF  K. 


571 


expeneBce  will,  change  matters  and  it  is  not  improbable  that  the 
corn-belt  lamb  feeder  will  attain  the  high  repute  enjoyed  bv  the 
expert  in  Michigan, 

Iowa  is  well  located  for  securing  and  marketing  sheep  and  lambs. 
With  the  Omaha  market  at  their  western  border  and  the  Cliicago 
market  within  easy  shipping  chstance  to  the  east,  it  is  difficult  to 
conceive  of  a  more  favorable  location.  If  Iowa  can  not  make  the 
feeding  of  the  western  sheep  and  lambs  profitable,  there  is  either 
something  wrong  with  her  methods  or  the  whole  feeding  area  in  this 
country  is  conducting  the  business  at  a  loss.  But  as  stated  above 
it  has  been  profitable  on  the  whole. 

When  we  recall  that  an  appreciable  number  of  western  ewes  are 
brought  into  Iowa  for  breeding  besides  the  large  number  of  sheep 
and  Iambs  for  feeding,  we  are  forcibly  impressed  with  the  fact  that 
a  marked  reduction  of  the  supply  from  the  W^est  would  be  keenly 
felt.  It  has  been  suggested  that  grade  ewes  of  the  English  Do\ni 
breeds  will  gradually  take  the  place  of  the  western  ewes,  but  no  pre- 
diction has  been  made  with  reference  to  what  would  take  the  place 
of  feeder  sheep  were  the  supply  greatly  curtailed  or  entirely  cut  off. 

Iowa  is  essentially  a  Mve-stock  State.  Much  of  her  area,  though 
fertile,  is  rolling  and  adapted  to  live  stock.  Her  soil  is  responsive 
to  either  good  treatment  or  abuse.  Live  stock  and  manure  have  been 
among  the  secrets  of  remunerative  crops  and  success.  With  the 
exception  of  a  wide  and  deep  dip  into  the  State  from  the  north,  the 
land  is  inchncd  to  be  rolling  and  suited  to  hve-stock  husbandry.  It 
is  thought  that  on  such  lands  Hve  stock  will  continue  to  doininate 
and  that  sheep  mil  be  a  feature,  provided  prices  for  mutton  and  wool 
remain  on  a  parity  with  other  live-stock  products. 

WISCONSIX. 

According  to  the  preliminary-  statement  of  the  Thirteenth  Census  the 
decrease  in  farms  reporting  sheep  and  lambs  in  Wisconsin  between 
1900  and  1910  was  17,021  or  a  decrease  of  36.1  per  cent;  the  decrease 
in  sheep  and  lambs  was  745,670  head  or  a  decrease  of  44.5  per  cent. 
The  decrease  in  ewes  was  from  918,638  to  588,628  or  330,010  head; 
in  rams  and  wethers  from  67,574  to  39,911  or  27,663  head;  in  lambs 
from  689,241  to  301,244  or  387,997  head.  The  decrease  in  lambs  un- 
doubtedly represents  a  discrepancy  due  to  the  fact  that  the  enumera- 
tion was  taken  April  15,  1910,  before  the  lambing  season  was  over, 
while  that  of  1900  was  taken  June  1,  previous  to  which  time  prac- 
tically all  the  lambs  for  the  year  were  bom.  In  spite  of  this  fact, 
however,  it  is  undeniable  that  there  has  been  a  pronounced  decrease 
in  the  numbers  of  sheep  in  Wisconsin  and  a  few  of  the  causes  are 
apparent. 

Sheep  first  came  into  Wisconsin  at  the  southeastern  corner.  From 
here  the  distribution  g^radually  extended  north  and  west,  but  the 
greatest  numl>er8  remained  in  the  south.  The  flocks  were  large  in 
comparison  with  those  in  the  same  region  at  the  present  time  and 
almost  without  exception  these  sheep  of  earlier  days  were  merinos 
whose  wool  was  the  chief  source  of  the  income  they*^  yielded  to  their 
o^raers.  In  southeastern  Wisconsin  particularly,  sheep  were  main- 
tained in  greatest  numbers  from  about  1870  to  1880.  Between  1880 
and  1890  there  was  a  marked  diminution  and  the  rapid  progress  of  the 


thinning  out  process  was  unmistakably  expressed  in  the  census  report 
of  1900.  \\  hv  this  rise  and  fall  in  the  industry  ?  During  the  period 
of  expansion  it  is  obvious  that  wool  secured  an  adequate  income  to 
landowners  through  the  medium  of  merino  sheep.  However,  this 
was  at  a  time  prior  to  the  great  expansion  of  the  sheep  industiy  in  the 
West,  and  before  the  demands  of  Chicago  for  milk  reached  far  into  the 
country.  It  was  also  before  the  demand  for  lamb  and  mutton 
reached  important  proportions.  Prices  for  wool  declined  at  about 
the  time  the  demand  for  milk  arose.  Hence,  there  was  a  double 
reason  for  rapid  decrease  in  the  number  of  sheep.  A  point  was  soon 
reached  where  the  sheepmen  realized  tliat  the  fleece  alone  could  not 
make  the  sheep  profitable.  Coupled  with  this  realization  was  the 
observation  that  tliere  was  a  growmg  demand  for  mutton,  particularly 
lamb.  The  old-time  pure  merino  was  far  from  ideal  as  a  mutton 
product  and  practically  out  of  consideration  as  lamb.  This  unfitness 
for  meat-market  demands  led  to  the  introduction  of  English  mutton 
blood*.  Longwool  sires  were  first  crossed  on  the  merino  ewes,  and 
later,  the  English  Down  breeds,  both  rams  and  ewes,  were  introduced 
to  such  an  extent  that  at  the  present  time  there  are  very  few  pure  or 
grade  merinos  in  the  breeding  flocks  of  the  State. 

But  the  combination  of  lamb  and  wool  could  not  hold  out  against 
Chicago's  demand  for  milk  in  southeastern  Wisconsin,  and  seemingly 
it  can  not  successfully  cope  with  milk,  butter,  and  cheese  production 
all  over  the  southern  half  of  the  State.  Whatever  may  have  been  the 
cause  of  their  coming,  it  is  singularly  true  that  the  large  immigration 
of  Germans,  Swiss,  and  Norwegians  into  Wisconsin  has  favored  the 
dairy  cow  and  not  the  sheep,  for  these  people  naturally  incline  to 
dairying.  And  they  have  so  permeated  the  part  of  the  State  under 
discussion  that  other  nationalities  are  practically  forced  to  adopt  their 
B3"stem  of  agriculture. 

Other  retardations  to  the  sheep  industry  in  Wisconsin  are  lack  of 
sheep-tight  fences,  infestation  with  internal  parasites,  and  predatory 
dogs.  In  the  days  when  sheep  were  more  prevalent  in  the  southern 
part  of  the  State  most  of  the  farms  were  adequately  fenced  with  rails, 
out  these  are  gone,  and  with  the  exception  of  one  or  two  lots  fenced  to 
restrain  hogs,  the  greater  number  of  farms  have  nothing  better  than 
the  3-strand  barb-wire  fence  to  keep  live  stock  within  bounds.  This 
precludes  keeping  sheep,  and  whether  the  European  immigrant  will 
witliin  the  near  future  resort  to  fencing  suitable  for  restraining  sheep 
is  purely  problematical.  First  of  all,  he  is  so  tliorouglily  imbued  with 
the  idea  of  keeping  cows  that  they  receive  practically  all  of  his  time  and 
consideration.  Again,  he  is  very  likely  from  a  country  where  herdmg 
is  cheaper  than  fencing,  and  lie  regards  fencing  as  an  exorbitant 
expense  which  a  good  citizen  should  avoid  by  erecting  as  fit  tie  as 
jwssible.  With  lus  present  understanditig  it  is  not  likely  he  \viil 
mtroduce  a  class  of  stock  which  seems  solely  a  competitor  with  the 
cow  for  the  grass  and  at  the  same  time  an  added  expense  by  requiring 
better  fencing.  It  is  a  mooted  question  whether  the  land  could  not 
bo  more  profitably  operated  if  tne  owner  were  to  keep  fewer  cows 
than  necessary  to  consume  his  grass  and  to  supplement  with  a  com- 
paratively small  flock  of  sheep.  But  should  this  be  demonstrated  as 
undeniably  true,  it  would  doubtless  require  an  active  campaign  of 
education  and  perhaps  a  scare  resulting  from  a  reduction  of  the  incre- 
ment of  profit  m  dauy  cows  before  a  perceptible  adoption  of  the  com- 


572 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


bmation  of  cows  and  sheep  would  occur.  Such  occurrence  is  more 
hkdy  to  come  indirectly  through  a  realization  that  the  hog,  a  consumer 
of  the  dairy  by-nroducts,  is  much  more  economically  grown  on  pasture 
than  in  the  dry  lot.  When  pasture  provision  is  made  for  swine  by  the 
building  of  hog-tight  fences  which  are  also  sheep-tight,  sheep  to  keep 
do\TO  the  weeds  and  to  consume  a  part  of  the  grass  will  seem  more 
feasible.  The  above  facts  are  represented  in  order  to  show  that  the 
place  for  sheep  (or  the  lack  of  it)  m  southern  Wisconsin,  has  not  been 
demonstrated  or  settled.  At  the  present  time  the  flock,  where  kept, 
IS  a  feature  in  a  diversified  system  of  farming.  Handled  in  this  way, 
essentially  all  owners  and  students  of  agriculture  who  have  given  the 
matter  thought  unqualifiedly  declare  them  a  profitable  adjunct  of  the 
farm. 

Internal  parasites,  particularly  stomach  worms,  have  been  a  dis- 
turbing factor  in  the  sheep  business  in  Wisconsin,  but  the  infestation 
is  becoming  better  understood  and  owners  know  better  how  to  guard 
against  it.  Before  owners  knew  anytliing  about  stomach  worms  the 
attacks  were  so  severe  and  losses  so  great  that  manv  became  dis- 
couraged and  closed  out  then*  sheep.  Hence  this  pest  has  been  more 
of  a  retarding  factor  in  the  past  than  at  present. 

The  predatory  dog  is  vanously  estimated  as  a  retarding  factor  to 
the  sheep  industry.  By  some  persons  he  is  considered  the  greatest 
of  all  hindrances  to  its  development.  In  locahties  where  flocks  are 
common  the  owners  of  sheep  usually  organize  to  protect  themselves 
against  dogs,  but  even  then  there  are  occasional  attacks.  The 
isolated  owner  is  in  the  worst  predicament  of  all  because  he  has  no 
one  to  cooperate  with  him  against  the  enemy.  In  such  instances  dog 
owners  are  far  more  numerous  than  owners  *^of  sheep  and  the  result  is 
that  the  dog  is  given  the  benefit  of  doubt  in  case  of  depredations. 
Wisconsm,  like  her  sister  States,  is  badly  in  need  of  a  law  placing  such 
obligations  upon  owners  of  dogs  that  the  tramp  canine,  who  is  usually 
the  depredator,  will  cease  to  be. 

So  lar  this  discussion  has  dealt  mainly  with  southern  Wisconsm, 
although  occasionally  observations  have  "been  made  which  apply  to 
the  State  as  a  whole. 

Xorthem  Wisconsin  is  considered  by  many  as  the  most  suitable 
territory  in  the  State  for  the  development  of  the  sheep  industry. 
There  the  land  is  comparatively  cheap  and  undeveloped.  It  is  not 
within  the  zone  supplying  milk  to  any  lai-ge  city  and  tne  lon^  winters 
are  not  favorable  to  cheese  production.  While  dairying  will  be  an 
industry  in  tliat  section,  it  is  not  expected  it  will  attain  the  intensity 
that  cliaracterizes  it  in  the  southern  part  of  the  State.  Sheep  tlirive 
in  northern  Wisconsin.  On  the  burnt  and  cut^over  timber  lands  blue 
grass  and  the  clovers  grow  luxuriantly.  So  far  tlie  owners  have  not 
displayed  an  adequate  knowledge  of  sheep  husbandr}^,  as  they  are 
usually  poorly  provided  with  good  hay  and  grain  for  winter  care. 
Those  Closely  m  touch  with  conditions  say  that,  provided  with 
suflicient  good  winter  feed  tlie  owner  can  grow  fully  as  good  wool  in 
northern  Wisconsin  as  in  any  part  of  tlie  State,  and  the  same  is  true 
of  lambs.  Once  more  the  nature  of  the  population  plays  an  important 
rdle  in  the  growth  of  the  industry.  Many  of  the  farmers  in  the  terri- 
tory under  consideration  were  lumbermen,  and  hence  not  clever  at 
farming  or  at  handhng  live  stock.  Others  are  foreigners  not  used  to 
sheep,  and  nearly  all  feel  themselves  too  poor  to  provide  adequate 


REPORT   OF   TARIFF   BOARD   01^   SCHEDULE  K. 


573 


buildings.  It  is  felt  that  tlie  great  need  amongst  them  now  is  educa- 
tion in  flock  husbandry.  And  when  tlicy  attain  the  knack  of  capable 
shepherding,  it  is  thought  that  their  floclcs  will  rank  with  the  best  in 
the  production  of  lambs  and  wool. 

As  p>  rule  Wisconsin  farms  are  from  40  to  120  acres  in  size.  Since 
sheep  factor  in  the  farm  economy  as  a  feature  of  a  diversified  system 
it  is  obvious  that  the  flocks  would  be  small.  Various  estimates  place 
the  size  of  flocks  from  25  to  50  breeding  ewes,  while  the  preliminary 
report  of  the  census  for  1910  gives  the  average  number  as  slightly 
less  than  20  ewes  to  each  farm  reporting  sheep.  With  the  average 
Wisconsin  sheep  grower  the  production  of  lambs  receives  first  con- 
sideration, although  the  better  growers  select  their  breeding  stock 
and  give  them  good  winter  care  with  a  view  to  producing  a  good 
weight  of  wool. 

The  lambs  are  born  in  March  and  April.  As  a  rule  the  lambing 
period  extends  over  five  or  six  weeks.  It  is  intended  to  have  the 
Iambs  born  before  the  busy  work  of  spring  opens  up,  so  that  no  extra 
help  is  necessary  during  the  period  when  the  flock  requires  close 
attention.  Estimates  on  per  cent  of  lambs  raised  vary  from  100  to 
125  per  cent  in  southern  Wisconsin  to  75  per  cent  in  the  northern 
part  of  the  State.  Marketing  in  the  southern  part  begins  in  June 
and  the  bulk  is  sold  out  by  August  1.  The  grower  sells  to  the  local 
butcher,  who  caters  to  the  demands  of  transient  summer  residents. 
The  butcher  contracts  for  the  lambs  and  takes  them  from  the  grower 
as  needed.  He  begins  selecting  when  the  lambs  vreigh  from  45  to  50 
pounds,  and  toward  the  close  of  the  season  weights  run  as  high  as  60 
to  70  pounds.  In  the  northern  part  of  the  State  the  green  feed  is 
not  early  enough  to  have  the  lambs  born  early  and  ready  to  market 
during  the  summer  months.  In  that  territory,  too,  there  is  an 
abundance  of  fish  and  game  and  hence  not  the  local  demand  for 
lambs  that  the  sheepmen  in  the  southern  part  of  the  State  enjoy. 
The  lambs  are  usually  marketed  in  the  fall  months  and  frequently 
after  a  feeding  period  in  dry  lots. 

As  a  rule  the  lambs  not  sold  locally  are  gathered  up  by  drovers. 
These  parties  are  more  discriminating  than  formerly  as  to  the  differ- 
ence in  the  quaUty  of  the  lambs  they  buy,  and  in  locahties  where  the 
drover  can  secure  a  carload  he  buys  on  fairly  close  margins,  but  the 
isolated  grower  usually  has  to  allow  him  a  wide  margin. 

Most  of  the  shearing  is  done  in  ^lay.  Both  machine  and  hand 
shearing  are  practiced.  Formerly  much  of  the  shearing  was  done  in 
June,  but  the  time  has  changed  because  the  ewes  do  better  if  they  are 
sheared  before  they  are  turned  from  winter  quarters  to  pasture. 
It  is  thought  that  the  earfier  shearing  does  not  diminish  the  weight 
of  the  clip,  because  the  fleeces  are  more  nearly  intact  than  if  sheared 
later,  ana  they  are  surely  in  better  condition  with  respect  to  grease  and 
tags.  The  average  weight  of  fleece  is  estimated  at  from  7  to  8  J  pounds. 
The  prevailing  blood  in  the  flocks  is  Shropshire  and  Oxford,  and  the 
wool  grades  one-fourth  to  three-eighths  combmg.  In  the  western 
part  of  the  State  some  common  combing  and  braid  wools  are  pro- 
duced. Too  many  flocks  in  Wisconsin  are  allowed  to  run  to  barley- 
straw  stacks  in  winter  where  they  get  the  barley  beards  in  the  wool, 
but  aside  from  this  the  wool  is  marketed  in  fairly  good  condition. 
The  greater  part  of  the  wool  is  gathered  up  by  local  dealers,  who  give 


574 


REPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BO^ilD  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


very    little    encouragement    in    better    prices    to   farmers   ofifering 
superior  clips. 

Few  iigures  are  aTailable  on  the  cost  of  maintainiiig  slieep  in  Wis- 
consin. It  is  estimated  b\^  those  having  long  experience  with  sheep 
in  the  State  that  in  the  southern  part,  on  land  valued  at  from  $75  to 
$200  per  acre,  it  will  cost  $4  to  keep  the  breeduig  ewe  one  year. 
Others  estimate  that  the  wool  will  pay  for  the  ewe's  keep,  provided 
she  shears  8  pounds  and  it  is  sold  at  25  cents  per  pound.  Tiiis  places 
the  cost  of  maintaining  at  $2  per  head.  'So  such  claim  is  made, 
however,  except  in  those  cases  where  the  sheep  are  considered  to  live 
part  of  the  time  on  what  would  othen¥ise  be  wasted. 

In  southern  Wisconsin  sheep  ai^  given  harvested  feeds  for  about 
five  montiis  in  the  year,  approximately  from  November  15  to  Apiil  15. 
In  the  northern  part  they  should  be  fed  at  least  six  montlis.  Clover 
hay,  straw,  com  fodder,  com  silage,  bran,  and  oats  are  the  chief  feeds 
used.  It  is  rarely  that  grain  is  fed  before  three  weeks  prior  to  lamb- 
ing. Tlie  amount  fed  per  head  nmges  from  one-fourth  pound  per  day 
before  lambing  up  to  1  pound  during  the  suckling  period.  The  suck- 
ling ewe  in  addition  to  this  is  fed  2  to  3  pounds  of  com  silage  and  all 
the  clover  she  will  eat.  The  lambs  are  usually  provided  with  grain 
in  creeps. 

On  the  majority  of  farms  keeping  sheep  there  is  some  broken  land, 
suitable  neither  for  cultivation  nor  as  pasture  for  heavy  animals,  such 
as  dairy  cattle.  What  this  land  is  worth  as  a  sheep  ran  those  inter- 
viewed were  unable  to  deteraaine.  Also,  many  owners  of  slieep  sow 
areas  to  rye,  which  not  only  is  hai-vested  for  grain,  but  is  pastured  in 
the  autunin  and  spiing.  No  estimate  was  placed  on  the  value  of  this 
forage.  It  is  probably  such  situations  as  these,  together  with  the 
aftermath  in  stubble  fields,  that  keep  })roduction  costs  comparativelv 
low  and  cause  owners  to  estimate  that  a  ewe's  fleece  bringmg  $2  ^^ill 
pay  for  her  keep. 

feveryone  interviewed  stated  that  the  sheep  of  Wisconsin  have 
been  greatly  improved  in  breeding  in  recent  years.  As  stated  above, 
the  prevailing  blood  is  Shiopshire  and  Oxford.  The  use  of  pure-bred 
rams  is  general,  and  many  of  the  grade  flocks  closely  approach  the 
pure  breds  in  appearance.  Very  few  western  ewes  are  bought  in  and 
fcred  in  the  southern  part  of  tho'State,  but  farmers  in  the  north  secure 
them  from  the  South  St.  Paul  market.  But  this  practice  is  not 
extending,  and  it  can  not  be  said  that  Wisconsin  is  seriously  depending 
on  the  West  for  her  supply  of  breeding  ewes. 

Western  lambs  are  fattened  on  a  number  of  Wisconsin  farms,  but  it 
is  claimed  tlus  practice  is  not  extending  and  that  it  will  probably 
diminish.  In  nearly  all  cases  the  iambs  are  brought  in  to  clean  up 
the  farm.  In  other  words,  they  do  in  a  period  of  about  100  days  what 
the  small  flock  is  supposed  to  dfo  in  a  year.  The  discouraging  features 
to  the  practice  are  its  speculative  nature  and  lack  of  sufiicient  feed  to 
carrv  the  lambs  to  a  desirable  market  finish.  So  much  feed  has  to  be 
retained  for  cows  that  in  order  to  carry  both  propositions  feeds  have 
to  be  purchased,  and  this  the  average  fanner  is  avei*se  to  except  in 
case  of  certain  concentrates. 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOARD  02f  SCHEDULE  K, 


575 


MISSOURI. 

No  other  State  in  the  Mississippi  Valley  has  equaled  Missouri  in  the 
growth  of  her  sheep  industry  during  the  past  10  years,  and  perhaps  no 
other  State  in  that  region  equals  her  in  real  natural  advantages  for 
sheep.  The  great  Ozark  uplift,  which  embraces  about  a  third  of  the 
area,  is  a  splendid  region  for  small  flocks.  The  grass  is  good,  the 
water  abundant  and  wholesome,  the  small  valleys  produce  good  root 
crops,  feed  is  cheap,  flocks  are  healthy,  and  the  winters  are  nuld.  The 
greater  part  of  the  region  north  of  the  Missouri  River  is  hilly  or  rolling, 
and  on  nearly  every  farm  there  is  rough  land  not  suitable  for  cultiva- 
tion which  can  be  handled  to  advantage  with  sheep.  Only  the  swamp 
lands  in  the  southeastern  part  of  the  State  are  regarded  as  naturally 
unsuitable  for  flock  husbandry. 

In  1910,  44,010  farms  in  Missouri  were  reported  as  keeping  sheep, 
which  is  5,997  more  than  report^  in  1900.  The  number  of  sheep 
reported  in  1910  was  1,808,038,  wliich  is  720,825  more  than  enumer- 
ated in  1900.  In  1900,  587,757  ewes  were  reported;  in  1910, 
1,012,543,  an  increase  of  424,786.  In  all  cases  the  increase  is  too  great 
to  Question  a  pronounced  and  healthy  growth  in  the  industry. 

Missouri  has  been  a  great  cattle  State  and  is  yet  to  a  certain  extent. 
But  there  has  been  a  waning  in  the  industry  because  of  the  large 
expense  incident  to  beef  making.  Eaising  lambs  is  more  profitable 
and  slieep  can  be  worked  into  almost  any  system  of  farm  management 
practiced  or  worthy  of  being  practiced  in  the  State.  The  search  for 
something  to  take  the  place  of  the  business  of  producing  and  maturing 
young  cattle  of  the  beef  type  has,  perhaps,  been  the  greatest  factor  in 
the  growth  of  the  sheep  industry  in  Missouri.  Hence  the  conditions 
demanding  slieep  in  that  State  seem  to  be  more  or  less  permanent  in 
their  character. 

During  the  last  20  years  the  breeding  of  the  sheep  in  the  State  has 
been  changed  from  merino  to  grades  of  the  various  British  mutton 
breeds.  When  mutton  blood  was  first  introduced  it  was  chiefly 
through  the  long-wool  breeds,  particularly  in  the  northern  part  of  the 
State.  In  that  region  there  are  still  a  number  of  long-wool  flocks, 
but  they  are  gradually  being  supplanted  by  Sliropshire,  Oxfords,  ana 
Hampshire.  It  is  said  that  there  are  more  Shropsliire  rams  being 
used  than  those  of  any  other  breed.  Oxfords  and  Hampshires  follow 
in  about  equal  numbers.  When  mutton-bred  rams  were  first  intro- 
duced there  was  a  great  deal  of  changing  about  in  blood  so  that  the 
flocks  became  badly  mixed  in  breeding.  While  this  condition  is  stiD 
bad  it  has  improved  in  the  last  ^ve  years. 

The  State  is  handicapped  by  the  comparatively  lai^e  number  of 
unimproved  flocks.  Sucli  flocks  are  of  mixed  breeding  or,  worse 
stiU,  wholly  indefinite  inbreeding,  which  justly  wins  for  them  the 
term  ''scrub."  Breeders  of  this  type  use  grade  rams  not  of  the 
approved  market  type.  The  result  is  a  crop  of  lambs  lacking  in 
market  requirements.  It  may  be  said  that  tliere  are  two  types  of 
sheep  raisers  in  the  State,  namely,  the  old  and  the  new.  Some  old 
sheep  raisers  represent  the  best  of  the  new  type;  very  few  of  the  new 
ones  classify  with  the  old.  By  the  old  type  is  meant  the  sheep- 
man who  has  failed  to  change  his  methods  of  management  since 
demands  have  changed  from  wool  as  the  primary  consideration,  to 
market  lambs.     It  is  he  who  fails  to  provide  proper  feed  and  to  bear 


576 


BEPOBT  OF  TAKIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDUI/E  K. 


577 


in  mind  market  demands.  With  bim  slieep  are  s^^i^^^^^^  /  ^^^^ 
apparently  tlieir  fet  duty;  what  they  do  m  the  prodiiction  oHam^ 
aSS  wool  is  subordinate  to  this  idea  and  usually  the j^^^^^^^^ 
inferior  product.  An  inspection  of  the  St.  Louis  market  confirms 
this  impression  as  to  the  product  sent  m  ^/^th^^^^yn^^^T^^ 
Buyers  on  the  market  state,  however,  that  the  lambs  1^1/ather 
betW  than  they  look.  Tliis  statement  may  be  misleachng.  It  im^ht 
be  inferred  that  a  common  looking  animal  dresses  out  into  a  choice 
carcass.  This  is  untrue.  The  real  meaning  of  the  statement  is  that 
tJie  carcass  is  common,  but  less  so  than  the  live  ammal  appeared. 

As  stated  above,  some  old  sheep  raisers  represent  the  best  of  the 
mew  type.  They  have  changed  in  tlieir  methods  as  demands  changed, 
and  aided  by  their  long  experience  mth  sheep  they  produce  the  best 
and  derive  gratifying  profits  from  the  business.  Wlien  men  dropped 
the  practice  of  niismg  beef  calves  and  took  up  sheep  they  luUy 
reahzed  the  necessity^  meeting  modern  demands.  These  new  men  of 
the  new  type  appreciate  the  value  of  the  pure-bred  sire.  1  he  result 
is  that  the  use  of  pure-bred  rams  is  becommg  more  general.  Thev 
also  know  that  it  pays  to  lamb  their  ewes  early,  feed  the  lambs  well, 
and  pass  them  on  the  market  before  the  heavy  run  from  the  West 
begins.  Fruits  of  the  reahzation  can  nsuaUy  be  seen  m  the  prime 
lambs  reaching  St.  I^ouis  in  June  and  July.  ,       j         x 

There  is  a  widespread  tendency  in  the  Stat«  to  breed  western 
ewes.  Some  of  the  reasons  for  so  domg  are:  (1)  They  are  more 
uniform  than  the  natives.  (2)  They  are  more  healthy  for  the  first 
two  years.  Most  of  the  natives  are  badly  mfested  with  internal 
parasites.  (3)  It  is  more  convenient  to  get  ^^f^^^f.  f^^?;^  ^^ 
may  be  ordered  from  some  commission  firm  with  the  stipulation 
that  thev  be  uniform.  It  is  almost  impossible  to  get  together  a 
uniform  lot  of  native  ewes  in  Missouri.  (4)  The  change  of  envuron- 
ment  from  the  West  to  Missouri  causes  them  to  thrive  better  than  the 
native  picked  up  in  the  neighborhood.  They  bepn  to  thrive  almost 
from  the  start  on  the  pastures  which  are  more  luxuriant  than  they 
ever  knew  in  their  western  home.  They  lamb  m  February  or  March. 
(5)  The  man  who  breeds  western  ewes  does  not  retain  his  ewe  lamDs 
for  breeding  purposes.  It  is  more  profitable  to  sell  them  and  to 
buy  in  new  breeding  stock  than  to  grow  them  to  maturity. 

tVhen  the  western  ewe  is  bred  to  a  pure-bred  mutton  ram  of 
desirable  market  type  she  produces  an  excellent  market  lamb,  and, 
since  they  all  lamb  at  about  the  same  time  it  is  possible  to  get  a 
crop  fakly  uniform  in  weight  at  the  time  of  sale.  The  farm  man- 
agement 'department,  University  of  Missouri,  m  cooperation  with 
ihe  U.  S.  Department  of  Agriculture,  is  makmg  a  feature  of  raising 
lambs  from  western  ewes  on  a  number  of  farms  it  has  under  con- 
trol The  plan  followed  is:  (1)  Nothine  but  pure-bred  mutton  rama 
shall  be  used.  (2)  That  creeps  shaU  ^e  provided  for  the  lambs 
(3)  All  lambs  shall  be  docked  and  the  males  castrated.  (4)  AU  of 
the  lambs  shall  be  marketed.  (5)  An  adequat^  wmter  feed,  and  early 
spring  fora<^e,  such  as  rye,  shall  be  provided  the  ewes,  in  no 
instance  has  this  practice  failed  to  be  profitable,  and  it  is  thought 
to  be  the  most  profitable  method  of  giowing  lambs  foUowed  in 
the  State.  It  is  contributing  a  great  deal  to  the  progress  of  lamb 
raising  and  should  anything  happen  to  cut  off  the  supply  of 
western  breeding  ewes  the  development  of  what  is  provmg  to  be  a 


lucrative  business  would  be  seriously  checked.  In  the  plan  outlined 
above  the  wool  receives  important  consideration.  An  attempt  is 
niade  to  secure  ewes  that  will  shear  a  good  weight  and  care  is  taken 
to  keep  the  wool  free  from  burs  and  to  pack  it  attractively. 

Lambs  in  Missouri  are  born  in  March,  April,  and  May.  It  is 
saki  that  early  lambing  should  be  encouraged  because  the  lambs  can 
be  handled  and  marketed  more  advantageously.  The  late-bom 
lamb  Is  likely  to  become  infested  with  stomach  worm  and  has  to 
compete  with  the  heavy  run  from  the  West.  Early  lambs  are  bom 
at  a  season  when  the  owner  can  devote  his  time  to  them  without  inter- 
fering with  spring  work  preparatory  to  planting  and  sowing  crops. 

The  number  of  lambs  raised  averages  about  90  to  every  100  ewes 
bred.  They  are  marketed  in  the  summer  and  the  fall  months. 
Those  marketed  in  June  weigh  about  60  pounds  at  the  market;  in 
July  and  August,  60  to  70  pounds;  from  September  to  January,  70 
to  90  pounds. 

As  a  general  rule  the  lambs  are  gathered  up  by  local  dealers  or 
drovers.  There  is  a  growing  discontent  against  tms  practice,  which 
is  fully  demonstrated  by  the  organization  of  lamb  cIuds,  whose  chief 

Imrpose  is  to  foster  cooperation  between  owners  in  marketing  their 
amos.  This  cooperation  is  planned  to  reach  further  than  overcom- 
ing the  cupidity  of  the  local  dealer  by  encouraging  better  methods 
in  breeding,  growing,  and  preparing  the  lambs  for  market.  Selling  is 
done  both  by  the  head  and  per  himdredweight,  the  latter  being  the 
more  common  practice. 

Most  of  the  shearing  is  done  late  in  April.  Chps  vary  in  weight 
from  6  to  lOpounds  per  fleece.  The  average  for  the  State  is  about 
7  poimds.  Tne  State  does  not  have  a  good  reputation  for  the  man- 
ner in  wliich  wool  is  prepared  for  market.  Much  of  it  is  not  tied,  and 
sisal  twine  is  frequently  used.  The  bulk  of  the  wool  grades  one-fourth 
and  three-eighths  blood  combing,  but  nearly  all  domestic  grades  are 
produced,  and  the  use  of  western  ewes  causes  a  quantity  of  western 
wool  to  be  marketed.  In  the  northern  part  of  the  State  some  luster 
and  demiluster  wool  is  grown,  but  how  much  is  impossible  to  deter- 
mine. The  greater  part  of  the  wool  is  sold  to  local  dealers,  who,  as  a 
rule,  are  said  to  be  disincUned  to  discrimiuate  between  wools  of  differ- 
ent quahty  and  to  pay  close  up  to  what  the  wool  is  worth  after  fair 
commissions  are  counted  off.  It  is  probable  that  growers  will  organ- 
ize and  cooperate  in  selling  their  wool  direct  either  to  the  mills  or  to 
large  warehouses. 

Practically  every  farm  reporting  sheep  in  ^Missouri  has  blue  grass. 
It  is  impossible  to  determine  what  the  production  cost  of  this  feed  is 
per  acre.  However,  it  is  often  rented  at  10  cents  per  month  per 
sheep,  and  an  animal  can  be  kept  on  it  for  seven  and  eight  months. 
The  supporting  capacity  of  an  acre  of  blue  grass  is  not  known,  and 
largely  because  few  farmers  keep  their  sheep  on  this  pasture  through 
the  entire  grazing  season.  They  are  changed  off  to  the  stubble 
fields,  etc.,  and  brought  back  occasionally  to  clean  up  the  pasture, 
after  which  they  are  shifted  again.  It  is  possible  that  the  grass 
required  for  a  mature  beef  animal  will  support  seven  or  eight  ewes. 
At  this  rate  land  selling  at  $80  to  $100  per  acre  would  support  four 
or  five  ewes;  land  selling  at  $20  to  $60  would  support,  say,  tnree  ewes 
through  the  grazing  season.  In  terms  of  sheep  this  would  make  the 
rental  about  25  cents  instead  of  10  cents  per  head  and  month. 

32080"— H.  Doc.  342,  62-2.  vol  1 37 


578 


KBPOBT  OF  TAMEV  BOABD  OF  SCHEDULE  K. 


BEPOET  OF  TABIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDTirLE  K, 


579 


Tlie  average  owner  of  sheep  in  Missouri  has  to  have  a  supply  of 
harvested  feeds  to  cover  from  two  to  three  months  time.  Hay,  clover 
and  timothy,  cowpea  hay,  com  fodder,  and  other  roughages  are  the 
main  dependence.  Some  feed  grain  to  the  ewes  after  tlie  lambs  are 
bom.  It  is  asserted  that  $2  wiU  carrv  a  ewe  12  months  and  the  lamb 
she  suckles,  provided  the  latter  is  sold  off  grass  about  the  last  of  June. 
This  will  hold  tme  on  land  that  is  valued  at  $60  per  acre  and  will 
produce  45  bushels  of  com  per  acre.  The  figure  presented  above 
would  permit  of  feeding  the  ewe  60  days  three-fourths  to  1  pound 
per  day,  equal  parts  by  weight  of  a  mixture  of  oats,  wheat,  bran,  and 
com,  and  from  200  to  300  pounds  of  hay^  valued  at  $8  to  $10  per  ton. 

Missouri's  climate  favors  the  production  of  a  great  deal  of  cheap 
forage.  Cowpeas  and  rape  in  com  make  a  luxuriant  growth.  Being 
well  to  the  south,  frosts  usually  do  not  come  until  the  peas  have 
matured.  After  the  com  is  harvested  the  ewes  may  be  allowed  the 
run  of  the  fields,  where  they  thrive  and  fatten  andf  attain  splendid 
condition  for  the  winter. 

But  Missouri  has  her  drawbacks  in  the  sheep  business.  Lack 
of  experience  with  sheep  keeps  many  from  handlmg  them.  Others 
are  spasmodic  growers,  usually  stocking  up  when  prices  are  high  and 
getting  discouraged  and  selling  out  when  they  are  low.  The  lack  of 
adequate  fencing  is  much  in  evidence.  Dogs  and  wolves  make  very 
destructive  depredations,  dogs  particularly  being  a  great  hindrance 
to  the  development  of  the  industry.  For  many  years  they  have 
prevented  its  development  to  proper  proportions  in  the  great  Ozark 
regions.  Near  the  small  towns  all  over  the  State  owners  are  harrassed 
by  the  dogs  attached  to  the  negro  families  who  fail  to  feed  them. 
The  stomach  worm  is  an  enemy  to  every  sheep  grower  and  a  great 
discouragement  to  many.  The  cHmate  of  Missouri  seems  especially 
adapted  to  its  propagation.  It  is  responsible  for  the  deplorable  con- 
dition of  many  lambs  marketed  from  the  State.  Parties  in  close 
touch  with  conditions  beheve  that  this  pest  must  be  found  out  and 
controlled  before  the  sheep  business  in  the  State  can  approach  its 
possibilities. 

The  feeding  of  western  sheep  and  lambs  is  increasing  in  Missouri 
because  it  has  been  profitable  in  most  instances.  The  farmer  pur- 
chases one  or  two  decks  of  lambs  which  he  turns  in  his  pastures  and 
fields  to  clean  them  up.  Rape  and  cowpeas  are  frequently  sown  in 
the  corn.  The  cowpeas  are  utilized  first  because  the  leaves  are  lost 
with  the  first  heavy  frost.  Then  the  rape  is  called  into  use.  Where 
lambs  have  access  to  blue  grass  with  these  feeds  they  gain  rapidly  and 
often  finish  without  the  use  of  grain.  It  is  estimated  that  farmers  not 
so  well  provided  (i.  e.,  without  cowpeas  and  rape),  make  about  half 
the  gains  in  their  pastures,  stubble,  and  corn  fields. 

The  usual  gain  on  yearhngs  from  the  time  they  are  sold  out  of  mar- 
ket until  they  retum  is  from  10  to  15  pounds;  on  lambs,  20  to  25 
pounds.  The  feeding  period  for  yearhngs  is  about  60  days;  for  lambs 
90  to  125.  To  make  a  reasonable  profit  feeders  expect  a  margin  of 
$1  to  $1.50  per  hundredweight  between  cost  and  selling  price. 

Sheep  feeding  is  not  so  extensive  in  Missouri  as  cattle  feedins:,  and 
perhaps  never  wiU  be.  It  is  engaged  in  for  the  prospective  profits  and 
not  for  the  f ertihty  conserved,  although  the  latter  is  acknowledged  as 
one  of  the  advantages  in  the  practice. 


KA.N8AS. 

The  assessors'  returns  in  March,  1910,  showed  190,802  dogs  in 
Kansas,  while  there  were  but  175,250  sheep.  These  figures  most 
emphatically  emphasize  the  statement  commonly  made  that  Kansas 
is  not  a  sheep  State.  This  failure  to  keep  sheep  is  difficult  to  under- 
stand. Good  authorities  estimate  that  there  are  more  than  50,000,000 
acres  in  the  State,  upon  every  one  of  which,  on  an  average,  a  sheep 
could  be  maintained  at  a  cost  scarcely  appreciable,  and  the  acre's 
value  would  be  increased  rather  than  diminisned  thereby.  It  appears 
that  the  State  has  only  about  one  sheep  to  every  300  acres,  in  spite  of 
the  fact  that  Kansas  is,  in  general,  well  adapted  to  the  profitable 
production  of  mutton  and  wool. 

Unfortunately  it  has  also  to  be  recorded  that  many  farmers  accus- 
tomed to  doing  things  in  a  big  way  regard  sheep  keeping  as  rather 
small  business  and  the  care  of  the  flock  too  mucn  bother,  especially 
in  lambing  season.  Undoubtedly  this  strikes  an  important  keynote 
here  on  the  disinclination  to  keep  sheep.  Then,  too,  adequate  fenc- 
ing is  lacking.  Again,  Kansas  is  not  olessed  with  a  large  area  of 
pasture.  She  speciahzes  in  com,  wheat,  alfalfa,  and  hogs.  Dairying 
IS  rapidly  increasing.  Cattle  and  sheep  feeding  are  speculative  fea- 
tures in  her  consideration.  Flocks  are  most  numerous  in  the  eastern 
part  of  the  State. 

According  to  the  preliminary  statement  of  the  Thirteenth  Census, 
3,143  fanns  in  Kansas  reported  sheep.  This  is  an  increase  over  the 
census  of  1900  of  1,048.  The  number  of  sheep  reported  was  272,472, 
which  is  110,459  more  than  given  in  the  report  of  1900.  The  number 
of  breeding  ewes  per  farm  averaged  for  1910,  51 ;  for  1900,  64.  These 
figures  indicate  a  reduction  in  the  size  of  flocks  and  a  more  general 
keeping  of  sheep  on  the  farms.  It  is  hkely  that  wheat  farming  in  the 
West  has  crowded  out  some  of  the  ranch  flocks  during  the  past  10 
years. 

Twenty-five  years  ago  practically  all  the  sheep  in  the  State  were 
merinos.  There  were  a  number  of  pure-bred  flocks  furnishing  breed- 
ing stock  to  the  ranchmen  of  the  far  West,  but  nearly  all  of  these  have 
disappeared.  At  the  present  time  most  of  the  farm  flocks  are  grades 
of  the  Enghsh  mutton  breeds  mainly  built  up  from  a  foundation  of 
range  ewes  bred  to  Shropshire  sires.  Twenty-five  years  ago  sheep 
were  kept  for  their  wool;  now  lambs  for  the  mutton  market  receive 
first  considpration  and  the  wool  is  a  secondary  revenue  which  the 
farmer  counts  on  applying  to  the  cost  of  maintaining  the  ewe.  The 
lambs  are  born  in  March  and  April  and  marketed  in  early  fall.  The 
grower  counts  on  raising  a  100  per  cent  crop.  The  principal  market 
IS  Kansas  City. 

The  better  flocks  shear  8  to  9  pounds  per  head,  and  the  average  for 
the  State  is  about  7.5  pounds.  It  is  apparent  from  these  figures  that 
the  wool  is  an  important  item  in  the  revenues  from  the  flock,  and  a 
great  reduction  in  the  price  would  cause  a  pronounced  setback  to 
sheep  growing  unless  there  should  be  a  recompense  through  an  appre- 
ciable rise  in  the  price  of  market  lambs.  One  man  interviewed 
asserted  that  Kansas  could  not  possibly  grow  wool  for  less  than  15 
cents  per  pound  under  present  conditions,  and  that  to  make  a  reason- 
able profit  the  lambs  should  be  sold  for  $4  per  head  and  the  fleece 
for  $1.60. 


580 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFT  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


EEPOET  OF  TABIFP  BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


581 


The  sheep  are  on  pasture  about  seven  months  in  the  year.  Few 
estimates  as  to  the  value  of  pasture  are  obtainable.  It  is  roughly 
estimated  that  the  breeding  ewe  will  consume  1  i  bushels  of  com  and 
one-fourth  ton  of  alfalfa  hay  during  the  period  she  is  off  pasture.  The 
tendency  is  to  use  aO  the  rouehage  possible  and  a  minimum  of  grain. 

Kansas  has  very  little  trouole  with  stomach  worm.  As  a  rule  the 
flocks  are  healthy.  But  a  serious  drawback  is  the  predatory  dog  and 
coyote.  There  is  no  adequate  dog  law  and  canine  ravages  are 
altogether  too  frequent. 

A  great  many  sheep  and  lambs  are  fed.  The  day  of  the  speculative 
feeder  who  buys  both  his  feeds  and  feedere  and  takes  no  account  of 
the  manure  produced  is  passing,  but  he  is  still  in  evidence.  His  is 
an  *  *  in-and-out ' '  business.  Whether  he  operates  or  not  depends  upon 
prices  for  feeds  and  sheep  and  lambs.  To  an  extent  he  helps  to  keep 
prices  uniform  because  he  is  apt  to  buy  when  values  decHne,  and  were 
the  supply  of  western  feeding  sheep  cut  off,  Kansas  would  have  to 
market  no  inconsiderable  quantity  of  her  crops  through  other  chan- 
nels. These  feeders  us©  no  shelter  and  hence  cUpping  before  market- 
ing is  not  practiced. 

More  sheep  and  lambs  are  being  fed  by  farmers  who  allow  them  to 
run  on  the  fields  until  the  feed  is  eaten  out.  Those  experienced  in 
feeding  can  produce  cheaper  gains  by  this  method  than  where  all  the 
feeds  are  purchased,  and  mdications* point  toward  a  general  adoption 
of  the  plan. 

NEBRASKA. 

The  prcentage  of  farms  in  Nebraska,  including  sheep  in  their 
annual  mventory,  is  small.  Yet  the  number  of  farm  flocks  is  on  the 
increase,  as  shown  by  the  Thirteenth  Census,  reporting  3,043  as  com- 
pared to  2,764  in  1900.  In  spite  of  the  increase  of  10  per  cent  in  the 
number  of  farms  reporting  sheep,  the  actual  sheep  population  de- 
creased from  511,273  in  1900  to  293,496  in  1910,  or  a  falling  off  of 
42  per  cent.  WhUe  there  has  been  a  decrease  in  all  classes  of  sheep 
it  is  most  pronounced  in  the  lamb  division,  w^iere  a  falling  off  of  72  per 
cent  is  registered.  In  the  ewe  class  the  decrease  has  been  42  per  cent. 
The  falling  off  of  the  total  number  of  sheep  and  lambs  may  be  ao 
counted  for  by  the  difference  in  the  time  of  year  the  reports  were  taken, 
since  flocks  reporting  April  1  can  not  include  the  spring  lamb  crop. 
Nevertheless  with  a  decrease  of  42  per  cent  in  the  ewe  class  the  lamb 
crop  is  actually  much  smaller  than  m  1900,  and  a  considerable  portion 
of  tiie  72  per  cent  decrease  must  be  accounted  for  in  this  way.  If  the 
above  figures  mean  anytliing  they  can  certainly  be  interpreted  to  show 
the  change  that  has  come  over  the  sheep  industry  of  Neoraska. 

It  is  the  day  of  the  small  flock  owner.  His  numbers  are  on  the 
increase.  This^lass  of  sheepmen  has  probably  grown  more  than  the 
10  per  cent  increase  in  number  of  farms  reportmg  sheep  w^ould  indicate. 
Not  only  the  breeding  but  the  feeding  is  now  beconaing  the  business 
of  the  small  farmer.  Feeds  have  advanced  in  price,  thereby  narrowing 
the  profits  of  the  large  operator.  The  farmer  finds  in  the  sheep  a 
market  for  his  grain  and  hay.  Tliis  is  important,  not  only  from  the 
marketing  standpoint,  but  the  fertility  nroblem  is  becoming  greater 
every  year  and  the  manurial  value  or  farm  crops  is  receivmg  con- 
sideration. 


The  development  of  the  State's  agriculture  in  the  corn-growing 
area  has  been  chiefly  along  lines  of  grain  farming  and  cattle  feeding. 
Hogs  are  kept  in  small  inclosures  and  have  not  access  to  the  whole 
farm.  ^  Sheep-tight  fences  were  not  needed  in  the  above  plan  and  this 
condition  has  been  a  factor  to  retard  the  development  of  the  sheep 
industry  of  the  State.  On  the  contrary,  profits  from  cattle  feeding 
have  become  somewhat  uncertain  during  the  past  few  years  and  a 
few  farmers  have  taken  up  sheep  as  a  method  of  marketing  farm  crops. 
It  is  also  not  an  uncommon  practice  to  buy  feeder  lambs  and  sheep  to 
be  turned  into  the  cornfield  to  harvest  the  crop  and  return  the  fer- 
tility. In  fact,  one  feeder  says  that  by  this  method  of  utilizing  the 
corn  crop  the  farmers  can  realize  a  good  profit  above  the  market 
price  of  corn  and  the  loss  should  be  small.  He  has  had  4,000  lambs 
m  the  com  at  one  time,  with  heaviest  loss  3  per  cent.  The  one  item 
of  eliminating  labor  at  harvest  time  is  important. 

Thus  far  we  have  spoken  of  sheep  numerically  and  the  figures 
cited  give  a  more  or  less  definite  idea  of  changing  conditions,  but  in 
discussing  the  changes  in  quality  the  only  availabfe  data  are  the  opin- 
ions of  those  who  have  been  associated  with  the  business  for  a  number 
of  years.  It  can  not  be  said  that  the  quality  of  Nebraska  grown 
sheep  (natives)  has  improved  greatly,  although  some  improvement  is 
noted.  This  is  accounted  for  by  slightly  increased  use  of  pure-bred 
rams.  It  is  the  belief  of  the  South  Omaha  commission  men  that  half 
the  ewes  going  to  Nebraska  farmers  are  bred  to  rams  purchased  at  the 
stock  yards.  There  is  at  this  time  an  entirely  too  great  disregard 
of  the  advantages  of  using  good,  pure-bred  rams;  too  many  farmers 
want  cheap  rams,  costing  from  $6  to  $10  each.  This  is  responsible 
for  the  slight  improvement  in  quality  of  the  native  ram.  Of  the 
pure-bred  rams  being  used  in  Nebraska  the  English  mutton  breeds 
rurnish  the  major  portion. 

Nebraska  farmers  are  regular  buyers  of  western  sheep  and  lambs 
on  the  Omaha  market  and  to-day  do  the  bulk  of  the  sheep  feeding  in 
the  State.  The  western  flocks  furnish  practically  all  of  the  feeding 
and  breeding  sheep  for  Nebraska.  Feeders  prefer  to  buy  western 
lambs  as  feeders  because  they  are  healthier,  and  one  large  feeder 
said  they  are  sure  to  make  better  gains  than  the  native  lamb.  An- 
other great  advantage  the  eastern  feeder  has  in  buying  western 
lambs  is  the  opportunity  of  selecting  uniform  lots  in  large  numbers. 
The  trade  in  western  breeding  ewes  has  been  increasing  for  the  past 
few  years,  but  the  movement  was  somewhat  %hter  in  1911  than  in 
1910.  Sheep  products  have  been  low  the  past  year  and  farmers  have 
temporarily  lost  confidence  in  the  market.  Farmers  say  the  ewes 
can  be  purchased  on  the  market  much  cheaper  than  from  the  western 
ranchers  direct.  The  ranchmen  ask  high  prices  for  desirable  ewes 
when  the  eastern  farmer  goes  to  the  ranch  for  them.  Desirable  ewes 
of  good  ages  and  quality  that  are  good  breeders  are  ordinarily  hard  to 
procure  on  the  market.  It  is  a  general  practice  to  sell  ewe  lambs  and 
replenish  the  flock  from  the  market.  This  is  cheaper  than  growing 
the  home-bred  ewe  lamb  to  a  breeding  age.  The  farmer  wants  young 
ewes  with  fairly  dense  fleece;  this  is  not  only  protection  to  the  sheep 
but  the  increased  wool  clip  is  of  consideration. 

The  native  ewe  of  Nebraska  is  an  unimportant  factor.  She  is 
not  inferior  to  the  western  ewe  when  healthy,  but  when  they  come 
to  the  market  they  are  as  a  rule  worn  out  or  diseased.    The  proximity 


682 


BBPOKT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


of  the  Nebraska  com  belt  farms  to  the  range,  or  of  the  Omaha  market 
to  the  range,  provides  a  splendid  place  to  purchase  large  flocks  of 
western  ewes.  The  supply  of  natives  is  so  limited  that  the  bulk  of 
breeding  ewes  must  be  drawn  from  the  western  flocks. 

The  wool  clip  of  the  various  flocks  varies  somewhat,  vet  it  is  safe  to 
say  the  average  fleece  weighs  between  7  and  8  pounds.  The  fleeces 
are  tied  separately  and  are  generally  marketed  in  the  rough.  The 
erade  is  not  generally  known  bv  the  farmer,  but  it  is  thought  to  grade 
medium  fine  It  is  Estimated  that  from  30  to  40  per  cent  of  the  net 
income  from  the  breeding  operation  is  derived  from  the  sale  of  wool. 

From  the  data  obtained  the  commonly  estimated  maintenance  of 
the  breeding  ewe  amounts  to  from  $4  to  $4.25  annually,  and  to 
grow  the  lamb  to  marketable  age,  it  is  claimed,  costs  something  like 
$2  to  $2.25.  This  cost  is  said  to  obtain  when  ewe  and  lamb  are  on 
pasture  the  entire  summer  without  grain.  The  ewes  are  fed  hay, 
generally  alfalfa,  during  the  entire  winter,  but  the  practice  of  feed- 
mg  grain  is  not  universal:  some  feed  1 J  pounds  per  head  daily,  while 
others  allow  grain  only  a  few  weeks  before  lambing.  Corn  and 
alfafa  are  the  two  generally  accepted  sheep  feeds  in  the  State.  Com 
is  worth  from  30  to  50  cents  per  Dushel,  while  alfalfa  fluctuates  from 
$5  to  $10  per  ton.  Where  lambs  are  allowed  the  run  of  a  cornfield 
(unharvested)  the  feed  and  labor  accounts  are  reduced. 

1 1  is  the  general  practice  to  market  lambs  direc  t .  Lambs  are  dropped 
during  February,  March,  and  April  and  marketed  during  December, 
January,  and  February.  They  attain  about  75  pounds  weight  by 
market  time.  Feeder  lambs  are  ordinarily  fed  about  80  to  120  days 
on  a  ration  of  com  and  alfalfa.  Some  feeders  use  60  days  to  get  on 
full  grain  feed,  starting  at  one-fourth  pound,  which  is  gradually 
increased  to  If  pounds,  while  other  feeders  reach  full  feed  in  20  days. 
Some  feeders  allow  2  pounds,  while  others  allow  4  pounds  of  alfalfa 
per  lamb  per  day.  Lambs  weigh  about  65  pounds  when  purchased 
and  gain  from  20  to  25  pounds  in  a  90-day  feeding  period.  Feeder 
sheep  are  fed  in  the  same  manner  and  receive  from  2  to  2  J  pounds 
grain  and  2i  pounds  to  5  pounds  of  hay  per  head  per  day.  They 
should  gain  about  18  pounds  during  a  90-day  period. 

The  cost  of  producing  the  general  field  crops  in  Nebraska  has  been 
compiled  by  Prof.  C.  W.  Pugsley  in  Bulletm  122  of  the  Nebraska 
experiment  station  as  follows: 


Cost  of  prod  ucinf. 


Com bushels. 

Wheat ■ do. . . 

Oats do. . . 

Wild  hav tons. 

Clover  hav do. . . 

Alfalfa do- . . 


Average 

yield. 

39.3 

22.2 

35.0 

1.25 

2-04 

3.33 

29.6  cents  per  bushel. 
54.9  cents  per  bushel. 
32.5  cents  per  busbeL 
$5.37  per  ton. 
$4.18  per  ton. 
$3.13  per  ton. 


If  the  farmer  can  find  a  market  in  sheep  and  lamba  for  crops  pro- 
duced on  his  farm,  the  feeding  of  such  crops  at  home  will  surely  result 
in  a  constructive  system  of  farming. 

For  pastures  in  the  central  and  western  parts  of  the  State  the  "sand 
hiUs"  are  depended  upon  during  summer,  and  after  stalk  fields  are 
cleaned  the  sheep  are  Kept  in  diy  lots  the  remainder  of  winter.     It 


REPORT   OP   TARIFF   BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


583 


<>» 


i- 


does  not  appear  to  be  customary  to  pasture  any  of  the  more  valuable 
land  of  the  State  with  sheep,  for,  as  one  breeder  said,  '^Wild  grass 
yields  only  about  1  ton  per  acre,  while  alfalfa  ^rields  4  tons,  and  for  this 
reason  the  wild  pastures  are  fast  disappearing."  Pastures  on  the 
sand  hills  are  valued  at  50  cents  per  acre  for  the  OTazing  season. 
These  lands  are  valued  at  from  $10  to  $25  per  acre.  In  ascertaining 
value  of  pasture  the  prevailing  rental  price  was  about  all  that  could  be 
determined,  and  that  was  often  uncertain.  Their  carrying  power  is 
never  over  2  sheep  per  acre,  and  more  often  1  sheep  per  acre.  Well- 
informed  men  say  it  is  necessary  to  raise  forage  crops  to  successfully 
grow  native  sheep. 


MINNESOTA. 


The  sheep  producers  of  this  State  have  different  opinions  as  to  the 
future  of  the  industry.  The  Thirteenth  Census  shows  24,564  farms 
reporting  sheep,  while  in  1900,  28,056  farms  reported.  This  is  a 
decrease  of  12  per  cent.  On  the  other  hand,  the  total  number  of 
sheep  have  increased  from  589,878  in  1900  to  637,551  in  1910,  or  8 
per  cent.  There  has  been  an  increase  of  26  per  cent  in  the  ewe  class 
and  17  per  cent  in  the  ram  and  wether  class,  while  the  lamb  class 
has  fallen  off  24  per  cent.  This  may  be  explained  by  the  change  in 
dates  of  reporting  from  June  1  in  1900  to  April  1  in  1910.  The  sheep 
that  are  shown  have  gained  in  numbers  by  25  per  cent. 

The  feeding  business  is  now  being  done  more  by  the  farmer  than  was 
the  case  a  few  years  ago,  when  speculative  operators  fed  thousands  of 
sheep  and  lambs  upon  screenings.  The  disappearance  of  the  big 
feedmg  plants  is  no  doubt  partly  responsible  for  the  dropping  off  of 
the  lamb  population.  It  would  seem  also  that  ewe  flocks  are  growing 
larger;  12  per  cent  decrease  in  the  number  of  farms  reporting  and  26 
per  cent  increase  in  the  number  of  ewes  will  surely  justify  this  con- 
elusion.  With  the  long  winters  the  cost  of  production  must  neces- 
sarily include  considerable  dry-lot  feeding,  and  this  is  the  expensive 
part  of  the  keep.  The  narrow  margin  between  the  producing  and  the 
selling  price  has  caused  a  falling  off  of  the  flocks,  and  the  dairy  cow  is 
coming  to  supplant  them.  The  dog  and  stomach  worm  should  not 
be  omitted  in  this  connection,  for  both  are  recognized  as  potent 
enemies  of  the  sheepmen. 

There  is  a  consensus  of  opinion  that  quality  has  been  improved 
during  the  past  few  years.  This  is  attributed  to  the  better  breeding 
classes,  both  ewes  and  rams.  The  use  of  pure-bred  rams  is  growing, 
but  the  grade  rams  of  the  mutton  breeds,  Shropshire  predominating, 
sire  most  of  the  lambs  in  Minnesota. 

The  movement  of  ''western"  ewes  into  the  State  is  increasing. 
Some  claim  them  to  be  hardier  and  more  rugged  than  the  native. 
As  a  matter  of  fact,  the  natives  have  seen  service  and  are  often 
undesirable  breeders  when  they  reach  market.  The  western  ewe 
is  not  infected  with  stomach  worms  and  will  respond  to  the  change 
much  better  than  the  inferior  natives  that  are  available.  The 
western  ewes  are  cheaper  and  many  farmers  purchase  them  on  this 
account. 

The  ''native"  ewe  in  Minnesota  is  a  much  more  important  factor 
than  in  Nebraska.  The  native  is  a  mixture  of  breeds,  Cotswolds. 
Shropshires,  and  a  few  merinos  (all  grades),  and  the  sheep  are  classed 


584 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE   K. 


BEPORT  OF   TARIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDUI/E  K. 


585 


as  a  medium  wool.  To-day  the  natives  are  practically  all  grade 
ShropsMres.  The  presence  of  a  considerable  number  of  native  flocks 
does  not  permit  of  the  same  changing  ownerships  of  flocks  as  can  be 
the  case  in  a  State  hke  Nebraska,  where  the  ewe  flocks  are  purchased 
at  the  market  and  kept  out  onlv  a  few  years.  And  again,  m  Minne- 
sota on  farms  where  sheep  are  kept  the  relative  percentage  of  sheep 
to  the  other  farm  animals  is  much  greater  than  elsewhere.  Sheep 
are  on  many  farms  the  main  item  of  hve  stock.  Some  say  that  sheep 
do  not  make  as  much  work  as  cattle  and  one  gets  quicker  returns. 
One  almost  universal  reason  for  sheep  ownership  is  to  maintain  soil 
fertihty. 

The  average  wool  clip  is  hard  to  determine,  but  it  is  between  6  and 
8  pounds.  The  native  fleeces  grade  about  one-half  to  three-fourths 
blood  combing,  while  some  farmers  report  a  grade  of  medium  combing. 
The  officers  of  the  Minnesota  Woolgrowers'  Association  say  that 
Minnesota  wool  has  proved  their  claim  for  it  of  being  one  of  the  best 
domestic  wools  produced,  yet  they  receive  regularly  a  very  low  price 
on  their  cHp.  The  percentage  of  net  income  from  the  flock  derived 
from  wool  is  hard  to  learn,  but  it  will  assume  a  good  figure,  since  cost 
of  keep  of  the  lamb  is  a  pretty  big  item  with  the  Minnesota  farmer. 
Reasons  for  farmers  going  out  of  the  sheep  business  are  various. 
Some  say  that  sheep  and  wool  are  to-day  selUng  40  per  cent  below 
the  cost  of  production;  that  **  wool  should  not  be  sold  for  less  than  22 
cents  per  pound  to  make  it  pay  to  raise  sheep.  Lambs  should  not 
be  sold  for  less  than  $5  per  hundredweight  to  make  them  pay,"  etc. 

The  wool  is  sold  in  the  rough,  each  fleece  being  tied  separately  and 
sacked.  The  Mnnesota  Woolgrowers'  Association  is  manufacturing 
its  own  wool  and  its  members  have  received  more  by  a  few  cents 
than  the  local  market  was  offering  tliis  year.  They  are  at  present 
manufacturing  blankets  and  selling  them  direct  to  the  consumer. 

Items  of  expense  entering  into  the  keep  of  a  flock,  as  estimated  by 
certain  farmers,  are  shown  in  two  yearly  statements  herewith.  As 
said  before,  the  grazing  season  is  short  comparatively  and  winter 
feeding  is  the  expensive  part  of  yearly  keep.  For  tliis  reason  the 
cost  of  keepmg  sheep  per  head  per  year  vanes  greatly,  dependmg 
upon  the  method  of  winter  management.  Summarizing  these  reporte 
we  have : 


Yetn. 


1909 

1»10 

Average 


Num- 
ber of 
head. 


209 
240 


449 


Value 
per  head. 


Cost  of 

feed  per 

head. 


Cost  of 

labor  per 

head. 


i4.22 
4.42 


S2.28 
2.84 


2.m 


11.00 
.92 


.96 


Total 
cost  keep 
per  head. 


13.28 
3.78 


3.M 


Another  farmer  names  $3  a^  cost  of  yearly  keep  for  feed  and  pasture 
and  furnishes  a  very  carefully  itemized  labor  sheet  showing  hours 
required  each  month  to  perform  labor  necessary  in  attending  to 
flocks  of  77  head.  Four  hundred  and  eighty-eight  and  one-half 
hours  were  required,  which,  at  20  cents,  amounts  to  $97.70.  To  this 
is  added  10  cents  per  head  for  shearing,  making  a  total  of  $105.90, 
or  $1.38  average  cost  of  labor  per  year. 


Prof.  Thomas  Cooper  of  the  Minnesota  Agricultural  College  reports 
the  cost  of  keep  and  income  from  9  Minnesota  flocks  as  follows: 


Flocks. 

Number 

head  in 

flocks. 

Cost  of 
keep  per 

Income 
per  head. 

81 
53 
113 
32 
32 
55 
30 
64 
25 

$5.06 
3.45 
4.11 
4.75 
3.83 
4.00 
4.42 
3.30 
4.00 

$3.55 

5.34 

4.14 

7.42 

10.30 

3.85 

5.14 

2.05 

3.98 

Total        

475 

1,964.11 
4.13 

2,061.44 

Average         

4.38 

It  is  impossible  to  get  estimates  as  to  the  cost  of  growing  lambs  to  a 
marketable  age,  but  the  general  method  of  handling  them  is  to  leave 
ewes  and  lambs  on  grass  during  the  summer,  and  in  the  fall  they  are 
fed  a  ration  of  grain  and  clover  nay.  They  are  allowed  the  run  of  the 
farm,  and  actual  cost  would  have  to  be  approximated  at  best.  The 
lambs  are  bom  in  March  and  April  and  are  marketed  the  latter  part 
of  summer  and  fall.  Farmers  report  lamb  crops  yielding  from  100  to 
110  per  cent. 

During  the  grazing  season,  which  is  of  about  six  months'  duration, 
from  May  1  to  November  1,  the  ewes  are  kept  on  grass  without  grain. 
During  winter  some  ewes  are  fed  grain  regularly,  while  others  get 
grain  only  at  lambing  time.  One  flock  owner  feeds  ewes  no  grain  even 
at  lambing  time.  Clover  hay,  mixed  hay,  corn  stover,  com  fodder, 
wheat  straw,  and  oat  straw  are  the  feeds  used  for  roughages.  It 
must  be  apparent  that  a  daily  grain  ration  and  clover  or  mixed  hay  will 
run  the  cost  of  winter  keep  far  above  a  flock  where  no  grain  is  fed, 
wet  hay  and  com  stover  constituting  the  winter  ration. 

The  grazing  season  can  be  extended  into  December  or  until  snow 
flies  by  the  use  of  rape.  Forage  crops  are  often  very  much  needed 
during  the  early  fall  to  supplement  the  permanent  pastures. 

The  permanent  pastures  in  some  sections  of  the  State  are  meadow 
lands  and  clover  and  timothy  stubble,  in  which  blue  grass  comes  after 
a  couple  of  years.  In  other  sections  the  native  pastures  are  blue 
grass  or  blue  grass  and  redtop.  The  clover  and  timothy  meadows 
after  being  pastured  about  two  years  enter  regularly  in  the  rota- 
tion. This  practice  of  plowing  the  pasture  land  is  advantageous 
to  the  sheep  mdustry  by  reducing  parasitism,  and  to  the  general  farm- 
ing system  by  putting  into  use  the  stored  fertiUty .  In  northern  Min- 
nesota are  thousands  of  acres  of  wild  land  that  could  be  grazed  very 
profitably  with  sheep.  One  farmer  in  that  section  reports  a  small 
flock  on  his  farm,  from  25  to  300  ewes,  fed  notliing  in  winter  but 
wild  hay.  The  sheep  were  on  grass  whenever  it  was  not  covered  with 
snow.    He  advises  the  farmer  to  keep  only  a  small  flock  to  eat  up 

waste  about  the  farm. 

The  cost  of  producing  farm  crops  ordinarily  fed  to  sheep  is  quoted 
from  Prof.  Thomas  P.  Cooper  of  the  Minnesota  College  of  Agriculture, 
June  17, 1910,  before  the  Select  Committee  to  Investigate  Wages  and 


586 


EBPOBT  OF  TAEIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


587 


I 


Prices  of  Commodities,  but  it  is  estimated  that  there  has  been  an 
increase  of  about  20  per  cent  in  the  cost  of  production  during  the  past 
six  years.     The  figures  here  given  represent  cost  for  year  1908-9, 

fathered  at  three  different  places  in  the  State.    The  items  on  wliich 
gures  are  based  are:  Seed,  twine,  labor  (man  and  horse),  macliinery, 
marketing,  interest,  and  miscellaneous  items. 

Cost  of  production  per  acre:  Wheat,  $11.07;  oats,  $10.56;  barley, 
$9.96 ;  tame  hay,  $8;  com,  $13.14.    The  yields  per  acre  are  not  given. 

TENNESSEE. 

The  sheep  industry  m  Tennessee  must  be  viewed  differently  from 
that  of  the  States  in  the  northern  part  of  the  com  belt.  It  is  pri- 
marily a  spring  lamb  producing  busmess  and  the  flocks  are  as  a  rule 
smaD.  It  IS  a  common  rule  that  where  general  farming  is  practiced 
one  ewe  to  every  three  acres  is  stocking  very  heavSy.  Indeed, 
some  farms  may  carry  twice  tins  many  for  a  season  or  so,  but  the 
majority  will  be  stocked  lighter  than  the  above  rule.  The  industry, 
it  appears,  is  centrahzing  in  the  central  basin  or  the  blue-grass  section 
of  the  State.  This  territory  embraces  about  a  dozen  counties  lying 
around  Williams  and  Maury. 

According  to  the  Thirteenth  Census  there  were  reported  29,978 
farms  having  sheep  in  1910,  against  37,905  farms  with  sheep  in  1900. 
Before  comparing  further  reports  it  becomes  necessary  to  explain  a 
method  of  management  frequently  practiced.  In  the  early  spnng,  say 
March  25  to  April  10,  the  entire  flock  of  ewes  and  lambs  will  be  sold 
to  the  drover,  who  may  ship  out  the  fat  ewes  immediately  and  rent 
pasturage  for  the  ewes  with  lamb.  In  this  case  statistics  gathered 
about  April  1,  as  was  done  in  1910,  may  find  several  flocks  assembled 
under  one  ownership. 

Considering  the  total  number  of  sheep  reported,  there  was  an  increase 
of  60  per  cent  in  1910, 496,011  being  reported  m  1900  and  794,063  in 
1910.  The  ewe  division  records  an  mcrease  of  67  per  cent,  and  there 
were  77  per  cent  more  lambs  in  1910  than  in  1900.  It  must  not  be 
understood  from  this  that  the  farmer's  flock  has  increased  in  size  as 
these  figures  would  indicate.  Market  time  comes  in  May,  when 
probably  65  per  cent  or  more  of  the  lambs  are  shipped  out  of  the 
State.  The  1900  census  did  not  record  these  lambs,  while  the  1910 
report  included  them.  Many  ewes  are  sold  in  May  with  the 
lambs,  and  this  explains  in  part  the  difference  in  this  class.  The 
change  of  dates  in  taking  the  census  report  does  not  explain  away 
the  increase  of  ewes  and  lambs  in  1910,  for,  as  a  matter  of  fact,  there 
are  actually  more  ewes  bred  in  Tennessee  to-day  than  were  bred  ten 
years  ago. 

The  cause  for  the  increased  production  is  explained  by  the  growing 
demand  for  spring  lambs  and  the  profit  offered  on  account  of  good 
prices  for  both  wool  and  lambs  during  the  past  few  years.  As  the 
sentiment  for  sheep  increased  the  sentiment  against  the  dog  increased 
(every  sheep  owner  is  the  enemy  of  a  worthless  dog),  thereby  greatly 
reducing  the  chance  of  loss  from  this  source.  It  is  estimated  that  a 
decrease  of  about  15  per  cent  in  the  number  of  people  keeping  ewes 
occurred  this  year  (1911),  on  account  of  the  scare  produced  by  the 

Eresence  of  scab  in  the  State.     This  decline  will  only  be  temporary, 
owever,  if  the  market  remains  good  during  the  next  few  years. 


■'"■( 


It  is  not  true  that  the  highest-priced  ewe  wHl  always  make  the 
largest  returns  on  the  investment,  but  the  farmers  are  giving  much 
more  attention  to  the  selection  of  their  ewes  and  rams  than  they  did 
a  few  years  ago.  The  spring  lambs  must  be  fat  and  possess  quahty. 
Superior  motherhood  is  essential  to  get  the  former,  while  the  latter 
must  be  found  in  both  the  ewe  and  ram.  Two-thirds  of  the  flock 
owners  have  native  ewes  and  the  others  are  from  the  West.  Here  it 
must  be  said  that  the  term  ''western  ewes'*  has  no  two  meanings. 
Some  farmers  refer  to  the  merino  sheep  from  the  ranges  as  a  western, 
while  others  refer  to  the  native  of  the  western  part  of  the  corn 
belt.  The  latter  is  a  rather  large  sheep  with  a  black  race.  Black  faces 
are  very  much  sought  after.  In  some  sections  as  many  as  one-third 
of  the  ewes  are  westerns.  The  native  ewe  is  said  to  have  originated 
from  the  Cotswold,  merino,  and  the  Down  breeds,  but  the  merino 
fleece  markings  have  disappeared.  These  ewes  are  splendid  mothers 
and  produce  an  early  lamo. 

The  rams  used  in  Tennessee  have  improved  in  the  last  few  years. 
Rams  of  the  English  mutton  breeds  are  used  almost  exclusively,  with 
the  Southdown  receiving  great  favor.  Prices  for  rams  rule  about 
$12.50  to  $15,  yet  many  $25  rams  are  used. 

The  lambs  are  dropped  during  January,  February,  and  up  into 
March,  and  marketed  from  May  20  to  June  20.  From  90  to  100  per 
cent  is  considered  a  fair  yield,  while  many  careful  farmers  exceed  100 

Eer  cent.  Not  over  10  per  cent  of  farmers  feed  grain  to  lambs  during 
ad  weather  of  early  spring.  The  Goodletts^e  Lamb  and  Wool 
Club  tried  feeding  grain  to  lambs  before  marketing,  with  negative 
results.  Generally  speaking,  the  Tennessee  spring  lamb  is  a  grass 
product. 

The  average  wool  cUp  of  the  native  ewe  is  about  4J  to  5  pounds. 
The  western  ewe  shears  about  6  to  7  pounds,  and  the  improved  native — 
that  is,  the  produce  of  the  white-faced  ewe  and  a  ''Down"  ram — will 
shear  between  5  and  6  pounds.  The  wool  is  sent  to  the  Louisville 
market,  grading  according  to  market  quotations,  "clear  unwashed." 
Much  of  it  falls  into  three-eighths  combing  and  three-eighths  clothing 
grades.  The  farmer  expects  the  fleece  to  pay  for  annual  keep  or 
the  ewe.  The  Goodlettsville  Club  picks  by  hand  the  burs  from  its 
wool.  They  generally  sell  to  the  blanket  mill  at  Springfield,  Tenn. 
Fleeces  are  tied  separately,  sacked,  and  marketed  in  the  rough. 

The  annual  cost  of  keep  is  very  hard  to  learn,  since  many  flocks 
never  get  a  mouthful  of  grain  or  hay  during  the  winter  and  eat 
grass  tnat  would  otherwise  go  to  waste.  Blue  grass  and  orchard 
grass  may  be  counted  on  for  steady  pasture  for  at  least  eight  months, 
and  where  not  eaten  down  close  before  fall  will  keep  the  flock  during 
winter.  The  winter  cereals  are  depended  upon  to  supply  green 
feed  in  winter  and  early  spring.  To  determine  cost  of  keep,  pasture 
may  be  rented  in  summer  for  the  ewe  at  10  cents  per  montn,  and  for 
about  four  months  in  spring  for  the  ewe  and  lamb  at  20  to  30  cents, 
averaging  25  cents  per  month.  It  is  estimated  that  this  makes  a 
total  cost  of  keep  for  feed  amount  to  $1.80  per  head  per  year.  The 
keep  of  the  lamb  is  included  in  this. 

There  is  no  attempt  made  to  feed  the  late  lambs  grain.  These 
lambs  are  seldom  fat  when  sent  to  market  in  July  or  August.  No 
western  lambs  are  brought  into  the  State  for  feeding.  The  carrying 
power  of  the  permanent  pasture  varies,  but  is  about  1 J  to  4  sneep 


I 


m 


588 


KEPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDUUB  K. 


I 


I 


per  acre  for  the  grazing  season.     The  permanent  pastures  are  being 
extended  on  account  of  unsatisfactory  labor  conditions. 

The  income  from  a  flock  is  figured  bv  local  owners  somewhat  as 
foUows: 

70  pounds  lamb,  at  6|  cente  (net) $4. 55 

5  pounds  wool,  at  20  cents  (net) 1. 00 

5.  55 

Estimated  cost  of  feed 1. 80 

Interest  on  ewe  ($5)  and  interest  on  ram  (|25),  at  6  per  cent 35 

I^bor,  salt,  etc.  (estimated) 50 

Loss,  all  hazards,  10  per  cent 50 

Total  cost  keep 3. 15 

Profit 2.40 

The  above  statement  for  the  average  equipment  and  method  of 
management  perhaps  approximates  the  results  obtained  when  prices 
rule  as  they  have  for  the  last  four  or  five  years.  Wool  sold  for  less 
than  20  cents  in  1911,  but  for  a  few  years  previous  it  sold  for  over 
25  cents. 

The  pasture  land  used  by  sheep  varies  in  price  in  different  localities, 
but  sheep  are  run  on  lands  that  are  changing  hands  at  $100  and  more 
an  acre. 

KENTtrCKY. 

The  area  of  Kentucky  where  sheep  are  found  on  a  considerable 
percentage  of  the  farms  is.  much  larger  than  in  Tennessee.  Not  only 
were  there  about  twice  as  many  sheep  in  Kentucky  in  1910,  but  52 
per  cent  more  farms  were  reported  with  sheep  on  them. 

In  1910  there  were  45,707  farms  reporting  sheep,  as  against  50,835 
in  1900.  The  presence  of  scab  in  the  State  is  probably  responsible 
for  this  decrease  of  10  per  cent.  To-day  the  State  is  quarantined,  and 
animals  can  not  be  shipped  from  the  State  without  dipping,  except  for 
immediate  slaughter.  This  has  to  a  degree  hurt  the  pure-bred  indus- 
trv,  and  the  indifferent  farmer  growing  spring  lambs  lound  the  buyers 
(tne  drovers)  unwilling  to  bid  strong  for  his  sheep  when  they  had  to 
assume  the  risk  of  having  a  bunch  of  lambs  held  up  at  the  yards. 
Dipping  is  of  course  compulsory  and  is  under  the  oirection  of  the 
State  and  Federal  inspectors.  Naturally  any  trouble  of  this  kind 
would  check  temporarily  the  growth  of  tne  sheep  industry. 

The  Thirteenth  Census  records  1 ,360,004  sheep  of  all  kinds,  which 
is  an  increase  of  4  per  cent  over  the  Twelfth  Census  report.  In  1910 
there  were  719,591  ewes,  as  compared  to  647,838  in  1 900,  or  an  increase 
of  only  1 1  per  cent.  Practically  no  change  is  reported  (3  per  cent 
gain)  m  the  lamb  division.  While  Kentuckj^  is  a  spring-lamb  pro- 
ducing State,  the  lambs  are  not  marketed  until  midsummer  or  later. 
July  and  August  are  the  principal  market  months.  The  lambs  are 
dropped  in  January  and  Februaiy.  Thus  we  have  no  marked  changes 
in  number  of  ewes  and  lambs  on  account  of  reporting  the  flocks  on 
April  lor  June  1. 

Judging  from  the  Thirteenth  Census,  the  Louisville  commission 
men  are  not  warranted  in  reporting  an  increased  volume  of  business 
in  spring  lambs.    Kentucky  is  not  tne  only  contributor  to  the  Louis- 


BEPOBTLOF  TAEIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


589 


ville  market,  for  the  largest  portion  of  shipments  originating  in  Tennes- 
see "are  consigned  there.  Yet  this  movement  of  Kentucky  lambs  may 
have  changed  in  favor  of  the  local  yards.  The  southern  part  of  Indi- 
ana may  have  undergone  an  extension  in  spring-lamb  production  and 
increased  its  consignments  to  Louisville. 

The  demand  for  spring  lambs  is  increasing,  and  aside  from  tempo- 
rary shocks,  caused  oy  outbreaks  of  infectious  diseases,  it  seems  safe 
to  predict  steady  growth  in  production.  Not  that  farmers  already 
engaged  will  increase  materially  their  flocks,  but  a  larger  percentage 
of  farms  to-day  have  on  them  no  sheep. 

Even  with  the  profit  derived  in  the  State  from  sheep,  many  are 
afraid  to  risk  a  flock  against  dogs  and  stomach  worms.  The  former 
is  regarded  as  the  greatest  enemy  of  the  sheepmen,  while  the  latter 
is  recognized  by  the  most  progressive  as  an  ever-present  tax  upon 
the  health  of  the  flock.  The  permanent  blue-grass  pastures  tnat 
obtain  in  some  localities  accentuates  the  trouble  from  stomach  worms, 
and  it  is  the  custom  in  many  localities  to  finish  lambs  on  timothy  and 
clover  pasture.  It  is  the  general  opinion  that  lambs  will  not  fatten 
on  blue  grass  in  the  summer,  during  July  and  August.  One  feeder 
said  cattle  will  fatten  on  blue  grass,  but  lambs  mil  not.  He  states 
further  that  late  lambs  can  not  be  fed  satisfactorily,  since  they  ''get 
scours  and  die."  Blue  grass  enters  the  fields  after  they  have  lain  out 
a  couple  of  years.  It  must  not  be  inferred  from  this  that  blue  grass  is 
a  better  breeding  ground  for  stomach  parasites  than  other  grasses, 
for  all  old  pastures  become  infested,  but  since  the  blue  grass  does  not 
grow  so  rank  as  the  other  grasses,  or  even  clover,  and  the  sheep  eat  it 
close  to  the  ground,  the  chance  of  infection  is  probably  a  Kttle  greater. 

The  quality  of  lambs  produced  in  Kentucky  has  improved,  due  to 
better  ewes  and  rams  being  used.  Farmers  are  also  giving  more 
attention  to  their  flocks  since  sheep  have  been  very  profitable  for 
the  past  few  years.  The  secretary  of  the  Kentucky  Sheep  Breeders* 
Association  says  that  40  per  cent  of  farmers  are  using  pure-bred  rams 
of  the  Hampshire,  Southdown,  and  Shropshire  breeds,  ranking  in 
importance  m  the  order  named.  A  Shelbyyille  dealer,  who  handles 
several  thousand  lambs  annually  and  consigns  most  of  them  direct 
to  the  New  England  Dressed  Beef  Co.,  says  that  a  majority  of  their 
clientele  use  pure-bred  rams  and  that  the  Southdowns  are  liked  best 
but  Hampshire  and  Shropshire  are  used  to  a  small  extent. 

The  western  ewe  (black  face)  is  used  very  largely.  It  is  said  that 
in  Shelby  County  85  per  cent  of  flocks  are  western  ewes.  One  flock 
of  350  ewes  is  composed  of  one-half  western  and  one-half  native  ewes. 
They  prefer  the  former  on  account  of  more  size  and  heavier  shearing. 
The  western  ewe  comes  from  the  Chicago  market  and  natives  are 
"  best  sheep  coming  from  Tennessee."  There  are  no  western  feeder 
sheep  or  lambs  sent  to  the  State. 

The  Kentucky  wool  as  graded  by  a  L'Ouisville  dealer  was  as  follows : 
One-fourth  combing,  35  per  cent;  three-eighths  combing,  15  per  cent; 
one-fourth  baby  combing,  30  per  cent;  three-eighths  clothing,  15  per 
cent;  braid,  5  per  cent. 

In  1911  three-eighths  combing  was  20  to  25  per  cent,  and  three- 
eighths  clothing  was  20  per  cent  of  clip;  the  latter  caused  by  the 
mtroduction  of  the  western  ewe.  They  say  the  average  clip  of  Ken- 
tucky is  5  pounds  and  scours  35  to  38  per  cent.    The  same  authority 


I 


590 


KEPOBT  OF  TAEIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDUI^  K. 


pounStr  ntt'iv?  from  western  ewjk  6.5  pounds  as  against  4  to  5 
pounds  for  native.     The  wool  is  sold  to  local  buyers  an?  goes  at  one 

i;fM«  t^'f**  of  keeping  the  ewe  and  lamb  in  Kentucky  is  renorted  a 

t^tendTI  tl?  ^*"'  Tr?r^-   7^«  l^'^bs  are  marLted  i?om  one 
to  two  and  a  half  months  later  and  a  few  more  farmers  fpp^  o.rI;„  „? 

fed  t^he^^Lr^Y'"  t'^Ji^  *^"  ^t^'-  ''^dTpri.S^Tut  no  K  is 
fed  to  the  ewe  or  lamb  after  grass  ia  plentifulin  rorinp      P«ftr,Jl„^ 

"P^timatLTv^'f  "'T  in  Kentucky  thin  in  Tenne^eT^"     ^''*"''«'' 

to^wT        ^  ^"'""  '*'''"'  ^°^"^  ''^  ^-^"-^  «°«t  of  kbep  and  income 


I 


Cost  of 
keep. 


Income. 


Lamb. 


S3. 00 
2.55 
3.fiO 

(?) 


15.00 
5.60 
4.90 
416 


Wool 


TotaL 


SI.  25 

1.40 

.95 

.06 


S6.25 
7.00 
6.85 
6.10 


U27r^  j2e"  JuTy^inl  a™  *\\°*'^."*1.P-  T^^^  ^or  ewe 
pasture  in  lost  inkaSs.'^^^uA.Se  oS  ^eZtoL™ 

;rw^  Yv^£et  laid 't^  T*?  p?  ""i^  peVrn?r*&raS 

Writhe  seCon  ^  ^"*'*"**^  ^"""^  *'^^  *°  ^^^^  «teep  pe? 

thB.roughage  for  winS^r  tome  feed  ete's  ^tee'l'a"  k'Tx P'°^'!^" 
grain  and  ewe  with  two  lambs  if  poS'S'hdly  ""We^St 
one-nalf  com,  one-auartpr  hftrlAxr  ^r^A  ^««       «  "«ixj^.     me  gram  is 

iTt^  4^i:teS"  '""^^'^^'  "^  -^"'^  *^«^  g^*  a'^ield  ofTrTm 


PART  II.  RAW  W00LS.-ADDE1VDA. 


NOTES  ON  SHEEP  RANCHING  IN  THE  WESTERN 

UNITED  STATES. 


591 


BLANK  PAGEfS^ 


I 


ARIZONA  WOOL  AWAITING  SHIPMENT  AT  RAILROAD. 


m 


A  "FLEET"  OF  CAMP  WAGONS  LAID  UP  FOR  THE  SUMMER  IN   IDAHO. 


SHEEP   Oir   THE   WESTEEW   EAWGES. 

The  sheep  ranges  of  the  West  naturaUy  fall  into  three  fairly  well- 
defined  geographical  groups. 

First  the  southwestern  ranges  of  Texas,  Arizona,  New  Mexico,  and 
Colorado. 

Second,  the  California  ranges. 

Third,  the  northwestern  ranges  of  Idaho,  Wyoming,  Montana, 
Utah,  Nevada,  Washington,  and  Oregon. 

The  field  work  was  begun  in  southwestern  Texas,  where  most  of 
the  sheep  ranges  of  the  State  are  located,  but  since  it  proved  difficult 
to  obtain  detailed  statistics  of  costs,  and  since,  when  the  work  was 
extended  to  New  Mexico,  it  was  found  that  such  statistics  were  more 
easily  procurable  there,  and  that  the  conditions  of  the  flock  industry 
are  practically  identical  in  the  two  States,  it  was  deemed  unnecessary 
to  make  a  detailed  study  of  costs  in  Texas. 

Labor. — In  Texas,  New  Mexico,  and  Colorado  the  laborers  needed 
to  care  for  the  flocks — sheep  herders,  camp  tenders,  shearers,  and  extra 
laborers — can  be  procured  at  very  reasonable  rates.  The  supply  is 
drawn  almost  wholly  from  the  Mexican  people,  who  are  natural  sheep 
herders,  livmg  very  close  to  the  ranges.  In  California  the  laborers  are 
Americans,  Mexicans,  and  Basc^ues.  Here  we  find  the  labor  not  so 
plentiful,  the  competition  for  it  greater,  and  therefore  the  average 
cost  higher. 

In  the  Northwestern  States  American  labor  predominates,  but  in 
some  cases  Basques  are  employed.  Here,  owing  to  the  great 
growth  of  the  business  and  the  demand  for  labor  in  the  mines  and 
elsewhere,  it  is  no  unusual  thing  to  find  sheep  herders  drawing  as 
high  as  $60  per  month,  while  the  average  for  the  region  is  much 
higher  than  in  the  Southwest,  the  wages  of  foremen  averaging  from 
$10  to  $25  per  month  higher.  The  number  of  men  employed 
per  thousand  sheep  is  much  higher  in  the  Southwest  than  m  the 
Northwest. 

On  one  of  the  largest  sheep  ranches  of  New  Mexico,  for  example,  one 
man  per  513  head  of  grown  sheep  is  employed  the  year  around.  On 
the  same  ranch  in  lambing  time  an  average  of  eight  men  to  each 
thousand  ewes  is  employed  for  approximately  six  weeks. 

On  one  of  the  largest  sheep  ranches  in  Idaho,  on  the  other  hand, 
two  men,  one  herder  and  one  camp  tender,  are  employed  per  each 
3,000  dry  ewes  and  1,500  ewes  with  their  lambs — an  average  of  one 
man  to  1,500  head — and  during  lambing  three  men  are  eniployed  per 
1,000  ewes.  The  average  of  a  large  number  of  cases  in  New  Mexico 
shows  one  man  for  741  slieep  the  year  round,  while  in  Idaho  the  aver- 
age is  one  man  for  1,223  sheep,  exclusive  of  the  extra  help  in  lamb- 
ing and  shearing.  A  study  of  the  conditions  which  make  this  great 
difference  between  the  two  sections  in  the  number  of  men  employed 
shows  that  in  the  Northwest  the  ranges  are  more  open  and  the  sheep 
easier  handled,  and  that  the  water  facilities  on  the  northern  ranges 


32080°— H.  Doc.  342,  62-2,  vol  1- 


-38 


593 


INTENTIONAL  SECOND  EXPOSURE 


I 


ARIZONA  WOOL  AWAITING  SHIPMENT  AT  RAILROAD. 


A  •FLEET"  OF  CAMP  WAGONS  LAID  UP  FOR  THE  SUMMER   IN    IDAHO. 


SHEEP   ON   THE   WESTERIT   RANGES. 

The  sheep  ranges  of  the  West  naturally  fall  into  three  fairly  well- 
defined  geographical  groups. 

First  the  southwestern  ranges  of  Texas,  Arizona,  New  Mexico,  and 
Colorado. 

Second,  the  California  ranges. 

Third,  the  northwestern  ranges  of  Idaho,  Wyoming,  Montana, 
Utah,  Nevada,  Washington,  and  Oregon. 

The  field  work  was  begun  in  southwestern  Texas,  where  most  of 
the  sheep  ranges  of  the  State  are  located,  but  since  it  proved  difficult 
to  obtain  detailed  statistics  of  costs,  and  since,  when  the  work  was 
extended  to  New  Mexico,  it  was  found  that  such  statistics  were  more 
easily  procurable  there,  and  that  the  conditions  of  the  flock  industry 
are  practically  identical  in  the  two  States,  it  was  deemed  unnecessary 
to  make  a  detailed  study  of  costs  in  Texas. 

Labor. — In  Texas,  New  Mexico,  and  Colorado  the  laborers  needed 
to  care  for  the  flocks — sheep  herders,  camp  tenders,  shearers,  and  extra 
laborers — can  be  procured  at  very  reasonable  rates.  The  supply  is 
drawn  almost  wholly  from  the  Mexican  people,  who  are  natural  sheep 
herders,  living  very  close  to  the  ranges.  In  California  the  laborers  are 
Americans,  Mexicans,  and  Bascjues.  Here  we  find  the  labor  not  so 
plentiful,  the  competition  for  it  greater,  and  therefore  the  average 
cost  higher. 

In  the  Northwestern  States  Ajnerican  labor  predominates,  but  in 
some  cases  Basques  are  employed.  Here,  owing  to  the  great 
growth  of  the  business  and  the  demand  for  labor  in  the  mines  and 
elsewhere,  it  is  no  unusual  thing  to  find  sheep  herders  drawing  as 
high  as  S60  per  month,  while  the  average  for  the  region  is  much 
higher  than  in  the  Southwest,  the  wages  of  foremen  averaging  from 
$10  to  $25  per  month  higher.  The  number  of  men  employed 
per  thousand  sheep  is  much  higher  in  the  Southwest  than  in  the 
Northwest. 

On  one  of  the  largest  sheep  ranches  of  New  Mexico,  for  example,  one 
man  per  513  head  of  grown  sheep  is  employed  the  year  around.  On 
the  same  ranch  in  lambing  time  an  average  of  eight  men  to  each 
thousand  ewes  is  employed  for  approximately  six  weeks. 

On  one  of  the  largest  sheep  ranches  in  Idaho,  on  the  other  hand, 
two  men,  one  herder  and  one  camp  tender,  are  employed  per  each 
3,000  dry  ewes  and  1,500  ewes  with  their  lambs — an  average  of  one 
man  to  1,500  head — and  during  lambing  three  men  are  employed  per 
1 ,000  ewes.  The  average  of  a  large  number  of  cases  in  New  Mexico 
shows  one  man  for  741  sheep  the  year  round,  while  in  Idaho  the  aver- 
age is  one  man  for  1,223  sheep,  exclusive  of  the  extra  help  in  lamb- 
ing and  shearing.  A  study  of  the  conditions  which  make  this  great 
difference  between  the  two  sections  in  the  number  of  men  employed 
shows  that  in  the  Northwest  the  ranges  are  more  open  and  the  sheep 
easier  handled,  and  that  the  water  facilities  on  the  northern  ranges 


32080°— H.  Doc.  342,  62-2,  vol  1- 


-58 


593 


I 


594 


BEPOET  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDtJIiE  K. 


are  greatly  superior  to  tlios©  on  the  ranges  of  the  Southwest.  This  ia 
noticed  more  at  lambing  time  than  at  any  other  season,  and  as  water- 
ing  places  are  scarce  and  the  volume  of  water  often  small  on  most  of 
the  southern  ranges^  the  owners  are  forced  to  have  the  ewes  handled 
in  smaller  bands.  However,  there  is  a  greater  difference  in  the  num- 
ber employed  than  in  the  total  cost,  for  the  southern  owner  can 
employ  two  men  to  the  northern  owner's  one  and  their  labor  costs 
may  still  be  about  equal,  owing  to  the  lower  wages  paid. 

Increased  cost  of  lahor.— On  an  average  for  the  West  this  increase  in 
the  monthly  wages  in  the  last  decade  has  apparently  been  from  S5  to 
SI 0.  In  New  Mexico  1 5  years  ago  sheep  herders  could  readily  be  liired 
at  $15  per  month  and,  according  to  almost  every  employer,  were  much 
more  reliable  and  dependable  than  at  present.  Now  the  lowest  rate 
is  $20.  In  California  wages  for  sheep  herders  have  risen  steadily, 
unto  many  of  the  owners  who  paid  $25  as  the  maximum  in  those 
days  are  now  paying  $40.  There  has  probably  been  a  siinilar 
advance  in  all  the  other  States,  accompanied  by  a  lowering  of  efficiency. 
To  this  increase  in  the  wages  paid  may  well  be  added  the  increased 
cost  incurred  in  obtaining  tiie  men  for  the  work.  Formerly  plenty 
of  reliable  labor  was  to  be  had  close  to  the  sheep  ranges,  but  under 
present  conditions,  when  extra  help  is  needed  on  a  sheep  ranch, 
the  owner  must  generally  go  to  town  to  obtain  it,  and  the  expense 
accounts  of  almost  every  sheep  owner  who  employs  'many  laborers 
show  a  very  considerable  sum  paid  out  annually  for  their  traveling 
expenses.  With  the  increase  in  wages  has  come  a  decided  increase 
in  the  number  of  men  employed.  When  there  was  plenty  of  room 
on  the  range  and  no  danger  of  "mix-ups"  or  trespassing,  one 
man  could  easily  handle  many  more  sheep  than  at  present.  As 
the  ranges  became  more  crowded  it  was  necessarv  either  to  cut 
the  bands  down  in  numbers  or  increase  the  number  of  men  with 
each  band.  Many  ranges  are  to-day  occupied  by  the  sheepmen 
which  they  formerly  would  not  use  under  any  circumstances  because 
of  the  number  of  men  needed  to  keep  the  sheep  together  and  prevent 
losses  from  cuts,  etc. 

Increased  shearing  costs. — ^WhOe  the  increased  use  of  machinery  for 
sheep  shearing  has  reduced  the  number  of  sheep  shorn  by  hand,  large 
numbers  of  sheep  are  still  sheared  by  this  method.  Invariably  sheep 
owners  doing  handwork  report  an  increase  in  cost  of  from  1  to  1* 
cents  per  head  over  the  prices  prevaUing  10  years  or  so  ago. 

It  is  difFicult  to  make  comparisons  between  machine  shearing  and 
hand  shearing.  Wliere  sheep  are  sheared  by  machinery  the  work  is 
done  imder  contract  and  the  price  usually  uicludes  the  feeding  of  the 
men,  the  tying  and  sacking  of  the  fleeces,  and  the  furnishing  of  sacks. 
In  hand  shearing  the  owner  pays  the  men,  feeds  them,  and  furnishes  men 
to  tie  the  fleeces  and  sacks.  The  greater  capacity  of  the  macliine 
plants  makes  it  possible  to  handle  large  numbers  of  sheep  each  day, 
and  it  is  not  unusual  for  an  owner  to  turn  his  flock  over  to  the 
shearers  at  daylight  and  receive  them  back  at  sunset  shorn  and 
ready  to  go  to  the  range.  With  hand  shearing  such  a  band  would 
be  held  about  the  shearing  pens  for  several  days  on  short  feed  and 
water,  with  a  resultant  loss  of  flesh  and  value. 

Provisions. — In  the  cost  of  provisions  there  is  a  great  difference  be- 
tween various  owners,  but  the  average  cost  of  supplying  herders  and 
camp  tenders  in  the  Southwest  is  almost  60  per  cent  less  than  in  the 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON"  SCHBBFLE  K. 


595 


i 


I 


Northwest.  This  includes  sheep  eaten — about  2  per  man  per  month. 
This  great  difference  is  not  so  much  due  to  an  increased  cost  of  pro- 
visions as  to  the  fact  that,  owing  to  the  higher  standard  of  living  of 
the  class  of  men  employed,  a  higher  grade  of  provisions  is  furnished. 
The  bills  for  provisions  for  some  of  the  sheep  camps  in  the  Northwest 
show  many  kinds  of  canned  goods,  especially  high-grade  fruits,  and, 
in  almost  every  camp,  canned  milk,  bacon,  butter,  and  eggs  whenever 
they  are  obtainable,  etc.,  articles  of  food  which  are  almost  unknown 
in  the  majority  of  sheep  camps  in  the  Southwest. 

On  some  of  the  more  conservative  ranches  the  owners  provide  goats 
in  the  flocks  to  be  eaten  instead  of  the  sheep.  This  is  done  more  in 
the  Southwest  than  elsewhere,  although  some  of  the  California  owners 
follow  this  plan  regularly.  The  cost  of  provisions  in  the  separate 
States  is  given  in  Table  XI,  which  shows  the  average  cost  per  man 
per  month  for  provisions  under  normal  conditions  for  the  year  under 
consideration. 

Grazing  lands. — One  of  the  most  interesting  points  in  the  study  of 
sheep  raising  in  the  West  is  that  of  grazing  lands.  A  decade  ago 
few  sheep  owners  felt  it  necessary  either  to  lease  or  to  own  the  ranges 
they  occupied.  .  As  the  country  settled  up  and  the  watering  places 
began  to  be  fenced  by  the  incoming  settlers,  many  sheep  owners 
secured  scattered  holdings,  which  were  so  laid  out  as  to  cover  the 
water  on  a  certain  part  of  a  range,  and  thus  ^ve  control  of  the 
adjacent  lands.  Then  the  large  landholders,  especially  the  land-grant 
railroads,  began  to  urge  the  leasing  or  purchase  of  their  lands  upon 
the  more  progressive  sheepmen. 

Most  of  these  lands  were  purely  grazing  areas,  for  the  greater 
part  unfitted  for  agriculture  as  carried  on  at  that  time,  and  were 
offered  to  the  sheepmen  at  very  reasonable  prices. 

Taking  the  West  as  a  whole,  the  desert  ranges  were  leased  at  a 
rate  per  section  that  ran  from  IJ  to  2J  cents  per  acre.  The  selling 
price  for  these  same  lands  was  between  $1  and  $1.50  per  acre,  with 
verv  favorable  terms,  generally  on  10  yearly  payments,  with  low 
interest. 

In  the  Southwest  the  sheepmen  contented  themselves,  as  a  general 
thing,  with  leasing  small  bodies  of  such  land,  so  located  as  to  give 
them  control  of  a  large  area  of  Government  range  in  its  vicinity. 
To-day,  however,  many  of  them  own  large  tracts  of  land.  But  in 
the  Northwest  the  sheepmen  in  some  instances  organized  themselves 
into  corporations  that  either  leased  or  bought  from  the  railroads 
large  bodies  of  desert  and  semidesert  range  and  then  subdivided 
it  between  themselves. 

These  purchases  and  leases  were,  as  a  general  thing,  confined  to 
winter  ranges^  although  some  of  the  sheep  owners,  especially  those  in 
Utah,  feeling  that  their  winter  range  was  so  vast  as  to  be  sufficient 
for  all  future  needs,  bought  only  mountain  ranges  for  summer  grazing. 

In  addition  to  their  owned  lands,  a  large  number  of  the  sheep 
owners  have  leased  lands  from  the  various  States,  from  private  own- 
ers, and  from  the  large  Indian  reservations  throughout  the  West. 
The  private  owners  are  for  the  most  part  the  western  land-grant 
railroads  and  the  large  Spanish  land-grant  companies  in  the  South- 
west.   Some  small  areas  are  also  leased  from  the  Keclamation  Service. 

In  the  State  of  Idaho  all  State  land  classed  as  grazing  land  is  held 
at  a  minimum  price  of  7J  cents  per  acre,  and  very  little  of  it  is  un- 


596 


BEPOET  OF  TABOT  BOABB  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


EEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


597 


leased  at  the  present  time.  These  ranges  have  a  general  carrying 
capacity  of  not  to  exceed  one  sheep  to  each  4  acres  and  often  less 
than  that. 

In  Utah  187,000  acres  of  summer  range  in  the  Wasatch  Mountains 
owned  by  one  large  sheep  company  is  valued  at  $6  per  acre.  Its 
original  cost  was  from  $1  to  $5  per  acre,  and  the  major  portion  cost 
but  $2  per  acre.  The  company  recently  refused  an  offer  to  lease 
these  lands  at  20  cents  per  acre  per  year.  As  they  estimate  the 
grazing  capacity  of  the  land  to  be  one  sheep  to  each  3  acres,  this 
would  make  the  grazing  upon  such  land  cost  the  lessees  at  the  rate 
of  60  cents  per  head  for  the  summer  season  only,  or  not  to  exceed 
seven  months  at  the  longest,  and  generally  less  than  six,  according  to 
the  season. 

Some  of  the  summer  mountain  ranges  in  Idaho  bring  prices  equal 
to  the  Utah  lands  mentioned.  These  prices  have  been  gradually 
increasing  for  some  years  past,  owinff  to  the  rapid  development  of 
the  sheep  industry  and  the  desire  of  tlie  sheepmen  to  secure  a  range 
where  they  would  be  free  from  tJie  encroachment  of  both  the  settler 
and  the  wandering  sheep  herds. 

For  the  most  part,  these  lands  which  are  now  being  used  by  the 
western  sheepmen  are  areas  which  will  probably  never  be  usable 
for  any  other  class  of  live  stock.  This  is  particularly  true  of  the 
desert  ranges  and  also  of  many  parts  of  the  mountainous  regions 
where  no  domestic  animals  but  sheep  will  graze. 

Costs  of  forage. — ^The  increased  cost  of  forage  for  sheep  in  all 
parts  of  the  West  has  been  very  marked  during  the  last  five  or  six 
years.    This  increase  has  been  due  to  several  causes. 

One  of  the  very  first  items  of  increased  cost  which  the  average 
sheep  owner  mentions  is  the  charge  for  grazing  upon  the  various 
national  forests.  This  charge,  which  runs  from  10  cents  per  head  for 
the  entire  year  in  the  Southwest  to  14  cents  in  the  Northwest,  was, 
of  course,  not  known  10  years  ago,  and  however  slight  it  may  be 
in  comparison  with  the  value  of  the  feed  obtained,  yet  it  means,  of 
course,  an  increase  in  running  expenses.  This  use  of  the  forests  by 
the  sheep  does  not  cover  the  entire  year  except  in  a  few  forests,  and 
on  an  average  the  sheep  do  not  occupy  the  national  forest  ranges 
more  than  six  months  of  each  year,  at  an  average  cost  of  approxi- 
mately 6  cents  per  head  for  the  ranges  in  the  Southwest  and  8  cents 
per  head  for  those  in  the  Northwestern  States. 

In  the  12  great  sheep-raising  States  of  the  Rocky  Mountain 
region— Texas,  Montana,  Wyoming,  Utah,  Oregon,  Washington, 
Idaho,  Nevada,  California,  Arizona,  New  Mexico,  and  Colorado — the 
total  number  of  sheep  for  1910  was  approximately  30,000,000.  Of 
this  number,  about  one-fifth  were  grazed  upon  the  various  national 
forests  during  the  year  1910.  There  are  no  national  forests  in  Texas, 
but  that  State  is  included  nevertheless. 

'\\Tiile  little  hay  or  grain  was  fed  to  range  sheep  a  decade  ago  be- 
cause there  was  plenty  of  good  range  available,  the  increase  in  num- 
bers of  the  sheep  and  the  constantly  decreasing  area  of  available 
range  have  forced  the  sheep  owners  in  the  last  10  years  to  spend  a 
great  deal  for  winter  feed. 

In  southern  Idaho  the  owners  report  that  10  years  ago  alfalfa  hay 
was  worth  from  $2  to  $3  per  ton,  while  to-day  it  is  bringing  $5  or 
$6  in  some  places. 


In  the  Las  Animas  Valley  in  southeastern  Colorado  they  formerly 
found  all  the  hay  they  wanted  at  $2  and  $3,  but  to-day  it  is  scarce 
at  $7.50  to  $8  a  ton. 

Cottonseed  cake  has  gone  up  in  price  from  $10  a  ton  to  $32.50, 
which  price  was  paid  for  it  by  the  Qarload  last  winter  in  many  parts 
of  the  Southwest. 

Corn  formerly  cost  from  60  to  75  cents,  a  hundredweight,  while 
last  winter  it  cost  from  $1.10  to  $1.25  a  hundredweight. 

Sheep  are  essentially  scavengers.  They  will  eat  forage  plants 
which  no  other  domestic  animal  will  touch.  Weeds  and  other  plants 
which  are  not  properly  classed  as  grass  are  eaten  with  avidity,  and 
a  range  upon  which  cattle  would  not  thrive  will  easily  support  sheep. 
Moreover,  the  water  question  is  another  element  to  be  considered. 
Cattle  and  horses  must  have  water  in  plenty,  and  a  range  with  little 
water  is  useless  for  that  class  of  stock.  Sheep,  on  the  other  hand, 
apparently  manage  to  thrive  fairly  well  with  succulent  feeds  and 
forage  plants  and  the  dew,  especially  in  the  mountains,  where  in  sum- 
mer it  is  no  uncommon  thing  ip  allow  a  flock  to  go  without  water 
to  drink  for  some  time,  with  no  apparent  injury  or  suffering.  Thou- 
sands of  sheep  in  the  West  derive  all  the  moisture  they  get  at  times 
from  eating  snow,  and  "•  watering  sheep  "  on  great  snow  banks  high 
up  on  the  mountain  side  is  a  common  practice  there.  While  sheep 
will  stand  this,  cattle  and  horses  lose  flesh  rapidly  where  no  other 
moisture  is  obtainable. 

Losses, — The  question  of  losses  is  one  which  haunts  the  western 
sheepman  day  and  night.  When  the  sheep  are  on  the  winter  ranges, 
he  dreads  the  possibility  of  a  deep  snow,  which  will  cover  up  the 
feed  and  make  moving  the  sheep  difficult,  if  not  impossible.  This 
particularly  is  true  in  the  Northwest,  where  in  the  winter  of  1910  for 
example  many  sheepmen  found  their  flocks  snow-bound  miles  away 
from  feed  of  any  kind. 

In  many  cases  the  owners  were  forced  to  buy  hay  at  unusually  high 
prices,  hfive  it  baled  and  shipped  to  the  nearest  railroad  point  and 
then  moved  out  either  in  wagons  or  packed  on  horses  and  mules  to 
where  the  sheep  were,  the  snow  being  so  deep  and  the  road  so  difficult 
that  wagons  could  not  always  be  used. 

Others  hired  teams,  and  with  snowplows  a  trail  was  broken 
through  the  snow  for  many  miles  across  the  range,  over  which  the 
starving  slieep  were  carefully  driven,  some  of  them  so  weak  that  it 
was  necessary  to  pick  them  up  along  the  trail  and  haul  them  on  sleds 
to  where  the  hay  was  placed. 

In  the  Southwest,  during  the  same  winter,  the  snow  would  have 
been  more  than  welcome,  for  there  they  faced  a  drought  which 
caused  heavy  losses.  The  sheep  had  been  moved  to  the  desert  ranges 
as  usual,  with  the  expectation  of  lambing  there.  Neither  rain  nor 
snow  fell,  and  at  the  critical  time,  just  as  lambing  was  at  hand,  the 
owners  found  they  must  either  move  the  sheep  or  lose  everything. 
The  sheep  were  worked  to  the  railroad  shipping  points  by  means  of 
hay  hauled  into  the  desert,  and  in  some  cases  water  was  hauled  out 
in  tank  wagons  and  given  the  sheep  in  troughs  from  the  wagon.  In 
this  way  the  animals  were  moA^ed  to  ranges  where  water  and  feed 
were  to  be  had  and  their  owners  were  saved  from  a  total  loss, 
although  the  expenses  and  losses  were  heavy  enough  to  offset  any 
profit  on  the  year's  business. 


598 


BEPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOABB  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


During  the  winter  of  1899,  owing  to  deep  snows,  one  New  Mexico 
sheep  owner  lost,  of  his  entire  floeli  of  40,000  sheep,  a  total  of  18,000 
old  sheep,  while  in  the  spring  of  1909  another  New  Mexico  owner 
lost  over  12,000  spring  lambs — ^his  entire  crop. 

A  study  of  the  situation  and  conditions  frequently  shows  losses  to 
be  due  to  a  lack  of  shelter  on  the  range.  A  "  norther  "  sweeps  down 
across  the  country,  and  one  flock  finds  shelter  under  a  low  range  of 
hills  or  a  few  scattering  cedars,  while  the  other,  lacking  these  essen- 
tials, drifts  into  some  ravine  or  dry  wash,  under  the  sheltering  banks 
of  which  they  find  apparent  security  from  the  storm.  But  the  drift- 
ing snow  falls  into  the  wash,  and  the  sheep  are  rapidly  covered  by  it, 
smothering  to  death  before  they  can  be  moved.  Hundreds  of  sheep 
are  lost  every  winter  in  this  manner. 

Losses  from  poisonous  plants  are  also  very  frequent.  On  a  good 
range  with  plenty  of  feed  few  sheep  are  lost  from  such  causes,  but 
when  the  range  is  overgrazed  or  the  sheep  have  been  driven  many 
miles  over  sheep  trails  almost  as  bare  of  feed  as  a  floor,  they  will 
eat  greedily  plants  which  they  otherwise  would  not  touch. 

Every  sheepman  in  the  Rocky  Mountain  region  counts  upon  a  cer- 
tain percentage  of  losses  each  year  from  poisonous  plants  which  in- 
fest the  ranges,  and  against  which  there  seems  to  be  but  little 
protection. 

There  are  also  regular  losses  from  predatory  animals,  which  are 
taken  into  account  by  all  sheepmen.  Thousands  of  dollars  are 
annually  paid  out  by  the  State  governments  as  well  as  the  sheep- 
men in  bounties  for  their  destruction. ,  These  bounties,  often  doubled 
by  the  sheep  owners,  are  turned  over  by  them  to  the  herders  to  en- 
courage them  in  the  work  of  extermination,  and  they  are  also  freely 
furnished  with  ammunition  and  rifles,  as  well  as  traps  and  poison. 

Losses  by  "  cuts  "  or  small  bunches  of  animals  which  get  cut  off 
from  the  main  band  and  are  not  discovered  by  the  herders  are  quite 
frequent.  Sometimes  the  "stray  gatherers"  find  and  return  part 
or  all  of  these  cuts,  but  more  often  they  are  picked  off  one  by  one  by 
the  coyotes,  wild  cats,  and  other  predatory  animals  which  continually 
hang  along  the  flanks  of  every  sheep  herd  the  year  round. 

The  coyote  is  the  one  great  scourge  of  the  western  sheepman. 
Unlike  other  wild  animals,  the  coyote  takes  kindly  to  civilization 
and  rather  flourishes  under  it.  Every  year  thousands  upon  thou- 
sands are  killed,  and  yet  there  seems  to  be  but  little  reduction  in  their 
numbers.  To  these  predatory  animals  the  western  sheepman  pays  a 
heavy  annual  toll  and  one  which  cuts  deeply  into  his  expected  profits. 

Larrbb  losses. — In  addition  to  the  losses  among  the  old  sheep,  there 
is  a  regular  los§  among  the  lambs  between  the  time  of  "  marking  up," 
which  takes  place  when  they  are  about  2  or  3  weeks  old  and  the  lime 
of  selling. 

This  loss  is  due  to  a  great  variety  of  causes.  Two  bands  are  some- 
times accidentally  mixed  on  the  range.  In  the  worry  and  "  milling" 
attending  the  separation  many  lambs  lose  their  mothers,  and  if  too 
young  soon  die,  or  if  they  live  are  stunted. 

A  good  many  lambs  die  from  the  docking  operation  and  many  more 
from  castrating. 

Taking  the  various  causes  into  consideration,  it  is  a  conservative 
estimate  to  place  the  loss  among  the  lambs  between  marking-up 
time  and  selling  time  at  10  per  cent.    That  is,  if  1,000  lambs  are 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF   BOARD  ON   SCHEDULrE  K. 


599 


"  marked  up  "  in  May  the  owner  will  do  well  if,  counting  every  lamb 
in  the  bunch,  whether  a  "  top  "  or  a  "  cut  back,"  he  has  900  to  sell  in 
November. 

Increase. — The  rate  of  increase  among  sheep  varies  very  greatly. 
One  hears  of  bands  where  the  lambing  amounted  to  over  a  hundred  per 
cent.  In  small  flocks,  where  every  ewe  is  watched  and  made  to  own 
her  lamb,  the  crop  is  higher  than  in  the  large  bands,  where  it  is  imprac- 
ticable to  give  them  all  personal  attention.  Yet  in  northern  Arizona, 
in  the  spring  of  1911,  one  company  marked  up  18,000  lambs  to  18,000 
ewes,  or  a  lamb  for  every  ewe  in  the  flock.  This  was  a  remarkable 
record,  but  the  conditions  for  lambing  were  ideal — the  ewes  were  in 
first-class  condition,  and  there  was  plenty  of  help  to  care  for  every 
ewe  as  she  dropped  her  lamb.  Table  XI  shows  in  its  proper  column 
the  average  rate  of  increase  in  the  various  States  under  consideration, 
which  is  believed  to  approximate  very  closely  the  general  average 
for  these  States  under  normal  conditions. 

Miscellaneous  costs. — ^There  are  a  multitude  of  small  expenditures, 
some  or  all  of  which  every  sheepman  has  to  meet,  which,  while  none 
of  them  is  very  large,  in  the  aggregate  make  a  very  considerable  and 
generally  overlooked  addition  to  the  expenses  of  running  a  band  of 
sheep.  In  order  to  reach  their  ranges  without  a  long  detour  around 
a  deep  canyon  otherwise  uncrossable,  one  Idaho  company  was  obliged 
to  erect  aJb  their  own  expense  two  suspension  bridges,  one  of  which 
cost  them  $300  and  the  other  $1,500.  These  bridges  are  used  but 
twice  a  year,  when  the  sheep  go  to  the  mountain  ranges  and  again 
when  they  return.  Then,  again,  on  many  ranges,  especially  in  the 
Northwest,  high  water  or  deep  rivers  cut  the  sheep  off  from  their 
summer  or  winter  ranges.  Fees  for  ferrying  the  sheep  across  these 
streams  are  not  uncommon  in  statements  of  expenses. 

Twenty  years  ago  few  western  sheep  were  dipped.  To-day  with 
few  exceptions  a  large  majority  of  them  are  dipped  at  least  once  per 
year.  Almost  every  owner  includes  dipping  in  the  list  of  his  in- 
creased costs  of  production.  Damages  to  fields  into  which  the  sheep 
work  their  way  is  an  occasional  cause  of  expense.  Herders  are  care- 
less and  allow  the  sheep  to  graze  close  to  some  fenced  inclosure  into 
which  they  creep,  and  the  farmer  calls  on  the  owner  for  damages. 

In  the  Southwest  it  occasionally  happens  that  sheepmen  must  buy 
water  from  the  railroads  for  shearing  or  lambing  camps.  One  Now 
Me:^ico  owner  in  1910  was  shearing  his  sheep  at  a  point  on  the  rail- 
road where  usually  there  was  plenty  of  water.  The  season  had  been 
dry,  however,  and  he  was  forced  to  buy  carloads  of  water  from  the 
railroad  company  for  camp  purposes  and  also  to  water  the  sheep. 
The  cost  for  water  was  $15  per  car,  and  it  took  10  cars  of  water  to 
carry  them  through.  In  the  Sacramento  Mountains  of  New  Mexico, 
in  1910,  another  owner  found  his  flock  ready  to  lamb,  and  owing  to 
the  dry  season,  with  no  water  for  the  sheep  at  his  usual  lambing 
grounds,  he  was  forced  to  haul  water  from  a  spring  15  miles  distant, 
using  two  four-mule  teams  constantly  for  the  work.  The  wagons 
went  from  one  small  band  to  the  other  on  the  range  and  considerable 
road  building  was  necessary.  He  estimated  that  this  extra  expense 
was  about  $250. 

License  tax. — Some  of  the  Western  States  have  what  is  known  as 
a  license  tax,  which  requires  any  person  bringing  a  band  of  sheep 


600 


EEPORT  OF  TABIFF  BOARD   ON  SCHEDUU5  K. 


W! 


into  the  State  to  pay  a  license  fee  varying  from  3  to  10  cents  per 
head.  This  tax  or  fee  is  sometimes  left,  to  the  discretion  of  the  vari- 
ous counties,  and  it  is  not  unusual  to  find  one  county  in  a  State  col- 
lecting the  fee  from  sheep  herds  belonging  in  a  county  immediately 
adjoining  it  in  the  same  State  and  which  must  pass  across  it  to 
reach  the  summer  or  winter  ranges  as  the  case  may  be. 

Protection  for  lambs, — ^Means  of  scaring  away  coyotes  and  other 
wild  animals  during  lambing  time  cost  every  slieepman  more  or  less 
each  year.  Some  Idaho  sheepmen  report  an  annual  cost  of  from  $35 
to  $100  for  dynamite  cartridges,  which  are  exploded  at  intervals  dur- 
ing the  night  to  scare  the  wild  animals  away.  Fireworks  and 
"  bombs "  are  often  bought  for  the  same  purpose.  Powder  is  fired 
during  the  night  by  boys  employed  especially  for  the  purpose,  and 
coal  oil  is  burned  m  red  lanters  which  are  hung  about  the  various 
lambing  places. 

Coal  for  camp&. — In  the  Northwest,  where  the  owners  use  the  im- 
proved sheep  wagons  for  their  herders,  each  wagon  is  fitted  up  with 
a  small  steel  range.  On  the  vast,  treeless  deserts  where  the  sheep  are 
wintered  it  is'  difficult  and  at  times  impossible  to  find  fuel  for  the 
stoves  as  well  as  for  the  camps.  The  expense  of  coal  for  this  pur- 
pose, often  purchased  at  high  rates,  is  found  in  many  of  the  schedules 
submitted,  sometimes  amounting  to  as  much  as  $150  for  a  single  large 
outfit  running  several  wagons  and  campa 

Shipping  meep  to  ana  from  the  ranges, — One  item  of  increased 
cost  is  that  of  shipping  flocks  to  and  from  the  ranges.  In  the  old  days 
when  there  were  few  settlers  and  the  whole  country  was  practically 
open  the  moving  of  the  sheep  from  the  winter  to  the  summer  ranges 
and  back  again  was  simply  a  matter  of  grazing  them  along  until  they 
reached  their  destination.  At  the  present  time,  however,  many 
sheep  owners  are  forced  to  ship  their  flocks  by  rail  to  and  from  the 
separate  ranges  or  suffer  heavy  losses  from  their  getting  thin  and 
weak  and  also  as  a  result  of  damage  claims  from  settlers  along  the 
route. 

One  large  Utah  sheep  company  owns  a  summer  range  in  the  Wa- 
satch  Mountains  pf  eastern  Utah.  Their  winter  range  is  on  the  Utah 
Desert,  some  200  miles  to  the  west.  Under  old  conditions  there 
was  not  only  no  los»  in  trailing  the  sheep  to  and  from  the  ranges, 
but  often  an  actual  gain  in  flesh.  Now,  however,  the  country 
between  the  two  ranges  has  been  so  well  settled  up  as  a  result  of 
irrigation  and  dry  farming  that  much  of  the  way  lies  through 
endless  lanes  between  fields  where  there  is  no  feed  whatever  and 
the  hungry  animals  must  be  fed  hay,  purchased  often  at  high  prices. 
Besides  this  the  sheep,  trailing  along  and  hungry,  will  eat  weeds 
and  other  poisonous  plants  which  under  ordinary  conditions  they 
would  not  touch,  often  making  heavy  losses  from  this  cause. 
This  company  is  forced  to  ship  every  animal  they  own  to  and  from 
the  two  ran^s  at  a  very  heavy  annual  cost.  While  this  condition  is 
not  general  it  still  obtains  to  a  very  considerable  extent,  making  an 
additional  charge  against  the  expense  account  which  was  formerly  un- 
known. The  annual  cost  to  this  one  company  for  this  shipment  is 
$4,367.65,  or  about  8  cents  per  head  each  vear.  Other  owners  report 
even  higher  per  head  costs  for  this  purpose,  the  maximum  being 
15  centsV  hVad  paid  by  an  Idaho  compaST 


BEPOBT  OF   TARIFF   BOARD   ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


THE   SOUTHWESTERN   RANGES. 


601 


Generally  speaking,  in  the  Southwestern  States  (Texas,  New 
Mexico,  Colorado,  and  Arizona)  sheep  raising  is  one  of  the  great 
industries,  and  a  large  part  of  the  people  are  interested  in  it.  In 
New  Mexico  sheep  raising  has  been  the  chief  industry  of  the  State 
for  over  200  years. 

The  conditions  governing  the  business  are  practically  the  same  in 
all  the  States  of  this  section.  Most  of  the  sheep  owners  utilize  the 
areas  within  the  national  forests  for  their  summer  grazing,  while  a 
few  use  them  the  year  round.  Except  in  Texas,  where  there  is  no 
open  public  land,  very  few  of  the  owners  have  bought  large  areas  of 
range  for  their  sheep,  contenting  themselves,  as  a  rule,  with  the  lease 
or  purchase  of  land  which  lies  around  watering  places  and  thus  con- 
trols the  adjacent  public  lands. 

Water  is  scarce  on  almost  all  of  these  ranges,  and  in  some  parts 
large  sums  have  been  spent  in  developing  watering  places.  In  south- 
eastern New  Mexico  a  large  company  which  uses  the  open  Govern- 
ment range  almost  exclusively  has  five  deep  wells,  sunk  at  great  ex- 
pense, for  watering  its  sheep.  Without  this  expense,  however,  the 
range  about  the  wells  would  be  almost  wholly  useless,  excepting  for 
short  times  each  summer,  when  the  rains  may  fill  surface  basins,  but 
these  can  not  be  depended  upon  for  permanent  water. 

The  carrying  capacity  .of  the  ranges  in  New  Mexico,  Arizona,  and 
Colorado  is  very  low.  On  an  average,  for  the  best  summer  and 
the  ordinary  winter  ranges,  it  is  doubtful  if  they  will  carry  more  than 
one  sheep  to  10  acres.  Of  the  mountain  ranges  of  northern  Arizona 
the  best  ranges  are  commonly  estimated  to  have  a  carrying  capacity 
of  about  100  grown  sheep  per  section  of  640  acres,  or^6.4  acres  per 
sheep. 

In  the  handling  of  herds  in  the  Southwest  practically  the  same 
methods  are  employed  as  in  the  Northwest.  Lambing,  except  for  a 
few  of  the  Arizona  sheep,  begins  in  the  latter  part  of  April.  As  soon 
as  the  lambs  are  strong  enough  and  the  snow  will  permit,  the  herds 
are  moved  into  the  higher  mountain  ranges  and  they  leave  them  in 
the  fall  just  before  the  first  snows  and  drop  down  into  the  foothills 
and  open  prairies,  where  they  winter. 

Very  little  winter  feeding  is  done  in  this  section,  because  there  is 
no  feed  available  except  what  has  grown  on  the  ground  during  the 
summer.  For  the  most  part  the  winter  feed  consists  of  the  browse, 
sage,  and  similar  forage  plants,  with  some  grass — ^generally  the 
grama  and  bunch  grasses. 

The  snow  seldom  interferes  with  the  sheep  here.  In  fact,  lack  of 
snow  is  more  to  be  dreaded  than  too  much  of  it.  This  is  because  on  a 
large  part  of  the  winter  range  snow  furnishes  the  only  available  water 
supply,  and  if  there  is  no  snow  the  sheep  suffer.  Thousands  of  sheep 
go  through  the  winter  without  seeing  open  water  more  than  a  few 
times,  obtaining  all  the  water  they  require  from  the  snow  banks. 

The  winter  here  is  much  shorter  than  in  the  Northwest,  and  of 
course  not  so  severe  on  the  sheep.  Occasionally,  as  in  the  winter  of 
1903,  snow  falls  unusually  deep  and  lies  upon  the  ^ound  for  long 
periods,  and  then  the  losses  are  heavy,  but  this  is  the  exception 
rather  than  the  rule. 


» 


602 


BEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


I 

IHf ' 


The  rough  range,  scarcity  of  water,  and  excessive  acreage  required 
for  the  sheep  make  it  absolutely  necessary  to  keep  more  men  to  each 
thousand  sheep  in  the  Southwest  than  in  the  Northwest,  both  during 
lambing  time  and  through  the  rest  of  the  year. 

This  variation  m  the  number  of  men  employed  is  given  in  Table 
XI,  which  shows  on  an  average  tlie  number  of  sheep  cared  for  by 
the  normal  force  fw  12  months.  The  minimum  is  in  New  Mexico, 
where  it  averages  1  man  to  each  741  head  of  sheep.  The  maximum 
is  in  Montana,  where  it  averages  1  man  for  each  1,556  sheep. 

The  table  on  page  605,  giving  the  breed  of  rams  and  ewes  used 
throughout  the  West,  is  also  important.  It  is  readily  seen  that  the 
Southwest  is  still,  as  it  always  has  been,  the  home  of  the  range  merino. 
But  little  of  the  mutton  blood  has  been  introduced  into  the  flocks  of 
this  region,  and  the  indications  are  that,  for  obvious  reasons — climate, 
range,  etc. — these  conditions  will  continue  to  exist  for  many  years  to 
come. 

CAMFOSNIA. 

The  conditions  surrounding  the  raising  of  sheep  in  the  State  of 
California  are  so  different  from  the  rest  of  the  AYest  in  some  respects 
that  this  section  should  be  discussed  alone. 

Here  we  find  the  sheep  handled  in  various  ways — some  entirely  on 
the  open  Government  ranges  the  year  round,  some  on  Government 
lands  (the  national  forests)  in  the  summer,  and  for  the  rest  of  the 
year  within  fenced  inclosures.  Other  flocks  are  grazed  the  year 
round  in  fenced  inclosures,  as  they  are  handled  in  Australia  and  New 
Zealand,  and  on  lands  in  most  instances  of  very  high  value  for  other 
agricultural  uses  than  sheep  grazing. 

Again,  in  the  breeds  used  we  find  that  California  is  about  equally 
divided  between  merino  and  cross-bred.  Broadly  speaking,  the  sheep 
in  the  southern  part  of  the  State,  where  range  conditions  are  some- 
what similar  to  Arizona  and  New  Mexico,  are  generally  of  the  merino 
blood,  while  in  the  northern  end  the  mutton  breeds  predominate. 
The  demand  for  mutton  in  this  Stat«  appears  to  be  for  hea^T  car- 
casses rather  than  for  light  lambs,  as  in  the  East,  and  we  find  men 
keeping  wethers  in  their  flocks  until  they  are  3  or  4  years  old 
before  marketing  them.  The  decline  in  numbers  of  sheep  with  the 
advent.of  tlie  farmer  is  nowhere  more  noticeable  than  in  California. 

In  the  year  1880  the  State  reported  over  7,500,000  sheep  within  her 
borders.  With  that  vear  began  the  tremendous  change  in  agricul- 
tural conditions  all  along  the  Pacific  coast,  which  was  most  active  in 
California,  and  we  find  that  by  1890  the  number  of  sheep  had  dropped 
to  4,000,000,  with  California  in  the  second  place  in  the  list  of  States. 
The  flood  of  home  seekers  still  continued,  lands  used  for  over  a  hundred 
years  for  grazing  sheep  and  cattle  came  under  the  plow,  and  by  1900 
California  had  dropped  to  the  tenth  place,  with  2,000,000  sheep.  In 
1910,  with  a  few  over  2,250,000  sheep,  slie  had  risen  to  the  eighth  place. 

A  large  number  of  California  sneep  are  sheared  twice  each  year. 
This  is  done  mainly  because  of  the  heavy  winter  rains  which  load  the 
open-fleeced  sheep  down  with  a  burden  of  water  as  well  as  injuring 
the  fleece  itself.  Another  reason  for  semiannual  shearing  is  the  loss 
of  wool  in  the  brushy  ranges  used  by  many  Califoniia  sheepmen. 
With  the  close  merino  fleece  this  loss  is  not  so  great,  but  with  the 


REPORT  OF   TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


603 


open  fleece  it  becomes  a  serious  matter.  The  number  of  sheep  cared 
for  by  one  man  is  high,  being  1  to  each  1,225  sheep  the  year  round. 
This  helps  to  reduce  the  labor  cost,  which  is  considerably  below  the 
average  for  the  Southwest. 

Many  California  flocks  regularly  lamb  within  fenced  inclosures, 
where  the  young  are  dropped  without  any  attention  on  the  part  of 
the  men.  Eeports  from  those  lambing  in  this  manner  indicate  that 
there  is  a  decided  increase  in  the  number  of  lambs  saved,  as  well  as 
a  very  great  decrease  in  the  lambing  costs. 

In  the  southern  part  of  the  State  the  flocks  winter  either  in  fenced 
areas  or  on  the  open  ranges.  This  section  of  the  State  is  peculiarly 
well  prepared  for  lambing  time  if  the  spring  rains  have  been  normal, 
because  of  the  great  amount  of  alfileria,  foxtail,  poverty  grass,  and 
other  spring  feeds  which  grow  luxuriantlv  all  over  the  plains  and 
footliills,  making  the  most  satisfactory  feed  for  lambing  that  is 
known  anywhere  in  the  western  country. 

Back  of  these  plains  lie  the  high  Sierras,  where  the  sheep  find 
splendid  feed  through  the  summer.  Here  the  lambs  mature  very 
rapidly,  while  the  wethers  take  on  excellent  weights.  In  the  fall 
they  drop  down  into  the  foothills,  where  the  majority  of  them  are 
placed  upon  the  grainfields,  finding  in  the  stubble  superior  feed  upon 
which  to  finish  up  the  lambs  and  wethers  for  market. 

Very  high  prices  are  paid  for  this  stubble  feed,  especially  where, 
besides  the  ordinary  weeds  and  forage  plants,  wild  morning-glory 
flourishes  in  great  abundance. 

After  the  fat  stuff  is  sold  off  the  ewes  are  handled,  both  on  the 
open  Government  lands  and  inside  the  fields  until  the  next  spring, 
when  they  again  go  into  the  mountains. 

On  the  eastern,  or  Nevada,  slopes  of  the  Sierras,  sheep  are  handled 
in  large  numbers  in  the  summer  and  wintered  on  the  Nevada  deserts. 

THE  NORTHWEST. 

Generally  speaking  the  Northwest  is  the  mutton-producing  part 
of  the  western  range.  Here  conditions  permit  the  use  of  the  mutton 
rams  that  are  so  popular  in  England. 

Finding  their  ranges  fairly  well  adapted  to  these,  the  north- 
western sheep  raisers  began  to  breed  for  mutton  as  well  as  for  wool, 
although  continuing  to  retain  the  merino  blood  in  the  ewe  flocks. 

The  ranges  of  the  Northwest  differ  in  many  respects  from  those 
farther  south.  Water  is  more  plentiful,  the  ranges  more  open,  and 
sheep  can  be  handled  in  larger  bands  without  danger  or  "cuts." 
The  winters  are  much  longer,  more  severe,  the  snow  deeper,  and  the 
danger  from  blizzards  and  sudden  storms  much  "more  to  be  guarded 
against  than  in  the  Southwest  or  in  California. 

Against  this,  however,  the  northwestern  raisers  are  generally  much 
nearer  to  feed  in  large  quantities  than  their  southern  neighbors. 
Hay  and  grains,  too,  are  cheaper  because  of  the  greater  amounts 
raised  in  the  Northwest. 

AVhere  a  southwestern  herder  will  find  sufficient  shelter  from  the 
weather  under  a  canvas  wagon  sheet  spread  between  two  cedars,  or 
]>erhaps  hung  over  a  rope  between  poles  set  in  the  ground,  the  north- 
western herders  are  protected  in  large  tents,  often  furnished  with 


604 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


BEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


605 


heating  stoves.  In  the  Southwest  the  "  sheep  wagon  "  is  almost  un- 
known, while  it  is  a  familiar  figure  in  every  sheep  camp  all  over  the 
northwestern  ranges.  The  canvas  wagon  sheet  goes  with  a  fews 
burros  and  pack  saddles,  but  the  sheep  wagon  calls  for  a  first-class 
team  of  horses,  with  harness  and  other  equipment,  including  grain 
for  tne  team. 

If  he  would  have  his  lambs  ready  for  the  market  they  must  he  born 
in  the  early  spring  before  weather  conditions  make  lambing  safe; 
hence  some  northwestern  sheepmen  arrange  for  the  lambing  inside 
great  tents  heated  with  stoves,  or  in  sheds  where  the  ewes  are  fed  hay, 
and  where  this  is  not  done,  small  individual  tents,  under  which  a 
ewe  and  her  lamb  may  be  huddled  overnight,  are  set  up  on  the 
lambmg  ground  wherever  the  ewe  happens  to  be  found  with  her 
lamb. 

As  in  the  rest  of  the  West,  the  herds  find  the  greater  part  of  their 
summer  feed  in  the  high  mountain  ranges  about  them.  Into  these 
ranges  they  can  not  take  their  sheep  for  at  least  a  month  later  than 
the  sheepmen  in  the  Southwest  go  into  their  mountain  pastures. 
This  is,  of  course,  due  to  the  length  of  time  which  the  snow  lies  on 
the  ranges,  it  being  on  an  average  for  the  whole  region  fully  June 
10  before  sheep  may  enter  tlie  mountains  and  find  the  ranges  free 
from  snow  and  the  grass  sufficiently  advanced  to  furnish  feed. 

Again,  the  northwestern  sheep  owners  must  leave  these  same 
mountain  ranges  from  two  to  four  weeks  sooner  than  they  do  in  the 
Southwest,  because  of  the  danger  from  early  snowstorms.  Taking 
the  two  sections  together,  it  is  not  far  from  the  general  average  to 
say  that  the  southwestern  sheep  get  fully  six  weeks  more  feed  from 
the  mountain  ranges  than  they  do  in  'the  Northwest.  To  put  it 
more  definitely,  the  season  for  the  whole  Southwest  in  the  moun- 
tains will  be  close  to  five  months,  while  for  the  Northwest  it  will  not 
average  more  than  three  and  one-half  months. 

Thus  it  is  that  the  cost  of  forage  and  the  miscellaneous  expenses 
per  sheep  for  the  northwestern  section  is  so  much  higher  than  else- 
where in  the  West.  The  feed  found  in  the  mountain  ranges  is  the  best 
feed  the  western  sheep  obtain,  and  under  the  charges  made  for  it 
by  the  Forest  Service  is  by  far  the  cheapest.  AVhenever  the  western 
sheepman  moves  his  flocks  to  the  winter  ranges,  his  expenses  increase 
very  greatly.  Therefore  the  flocks  that  can  remain  away  from  the 
winter  ranges  the  longest  are  maintained  at  a  lower  rate  proportion- 
ately than  the  others. 

THE  BKEEDINO  OF  W^ESTERN  BANQE  SHEEP. 

In  the  early  days  of  sheep  raising  in  the  West  wool  was 
the  chief  marketable  product  of  the  flocks.  Since  the  intro- 
duction of  the  mutton  breeds,  we  find  that,  in  many  of  the  Western 
States,  the  range  ewes  carry  a  small  percentage  of  the  blood  of  the 
various  mutton  breeds.  This  is  largely  for  the  purpose  of  increasing 
the  size  and  mutton  conformation  of  the  ewe  stock.  Of  all  the 
mutton  breeds  which  have  been  introduced  into  the  western  rang3 
country  the  Shropshire,  Cotswold,  Lincoln,  Hampshire,  and  Oxford 
have  become  the  most  popular. 

The  leading  essentials  of  range  sheep  are  production  of  a  good, 
dense  fleece;  good  mutton  conformation;  hardiness;   adaptability 


to  herding  together  in  large  flocks;  the  habit  of  grazing  without 
scattering  too  much. 

Owing  to  the  fact  that  wool  is  one  of  the  important  products  of 
range  sheep,  a  high  shearing  average,  together  with  a  good  quality 
of  wool,  is  very  desirable.  Range  sheep  should  have  a  fleece  that  is 
rather  dense,  iJecause  the  animals  must  endure  all  kinds  of  weather.. 
With  a  too-open  fleece  a  considerable  amount  of  wool  is  lost  by  being 
pulled  out  by  the  brush  and  shrubs  as  the  sheep  graze. 

As  a  general  proposition  flock  owners  are  especially  anxious  to 
obtain  as  good  a  combination  of  wool  and  mutton  as  they  can  pos- 
sibly secure.  The  ewe  stock  which  are  run  on  the  ranges  always 
carry  a  large  per  cent  of  merino  blood.  The  amount  of  mutton  blood 
in  the  ewes  will  depend  largely  upon  the  object  in  view.  Wliere 
ewes  that  contain  a  lair  percentage  of  mutton  blood  are  crossed  with 
mutton  rams,  it  is  very  seldom  that  any  of  the  lambs  will  be  kept  to 
maintain  the  flock. 

Range  sheep  should  be  hardy,  as  they  must  endure  all  kinds  of 
storms,  and  to  secure  hardiness  a  certain  percentage  of  merino  blood 
is  necessary. 

Range  sheep  must  have  the  disposition  to  herd  together  in  large 
numbers,  and  a  certain  percentage  of  fine- wool  blood  must  be  used  to 
secure  this  essential.  It  is  a  well-known  fact  that  the  mutton  breeds 
will  not  herd  together  like  fine  wools,  and  where  too  large  percentage 
of  mutton  blood  is  used  in  breeding  stock  the  sheep  are  very  likely  to 
scatter  too  much  in  herding. 

There  have  been  two  systems  of  breeding  sheep  in  the  range  coun- 
try— one  to  produce  sheep  adapted  for  range  conditions  and  the  other 
to  produce  sheep  that  will  fulfill  the  market  requirements. 

Most  of  the  large  outfits  in  the  West  have  been  using  both  fine- wool 
and  mutton  rams.  The  lambs  produced  from  the  fine-wool  rams  have 
been  used  in  replacing  the  old  breeding  stock  disposed  of  from  year  to 
year,  as  well  as  increasing  the  flock  in  numbers,  while  the  lambs 
produced  from  the  mutton  rams  have  been  marketed. 

The  following  table  shows  the  breed  of  rams  and  ewes  in  flocks 
reported  upon  by  the  agents  of  the  Tariff  Board : 


Per 
cent. 


ABIZONA. 

Bams: 

Rambouillet 83 

Shropshire 9 

Merino 4 

Oxford 4 

Ewes: 

Merino 54 

Rambouillet 46 

NEW   MEXICO. 

Bams: 

Rambouillet 78 

Merino 14 

Shropshire 6 

Delaine -  -  -  -  2 

Ewes: 

Merino 49 

Rambouillet 43 

Delaine 3 

Common 5 


COLORADO.  Per 

Rams:  **°*- 

Rambouillet 59 

Shropshire 15 

Oxford 5 

Lincoln 4 

Merino 4 

Cotswold 2 

Hampshire 2 

Oxford 5 

Delaine 4 

Ewes: 

Rambouillet 44 

Merino 42 

Delaine 5 

Oxford 3 

Lincoln 2 

Hampshire 2 

Shropshire 2 


606 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


'|!"'fPP'  jk  'WM' 


Pot 
Kanifl:  oent. 

Cotawold 56 

Rambouillet 44 

Ewee: 

Rambouillet 44 

Cotewold 44 

Merino 12 


NEVADA. 

Bams: 

Shropshire 76 

Merino ,  8 

Cotswoid 8 

Rambouillet 8 

Ewes: 

Merino 58 

Cotswoid 17 

Delaine 17 

Shropshire 8 

CALIFORNIA. 

Bams: 

Merino 36 

Shropshire 36 

Ramoouillet 9 

Cotswoid 9 

Hampshire 5 

Delaine 5 

Ewes: 

Merino 94 

Rambouillet 6 


OREGON, 

Bams: 

Delaine 27 

Shropshire. 21 

Rambouillet 21 

Iiincohi 15 

Merino 13 

Cotswoid 3 

Ewes: 

Delaine 38 

Rambouillet 30 

Merino 25 

Shropshire 2 

Lincoln 1 


WASHINGTON.  Per 

Bams:  cent. 

Shropshire 55 

Lincoln 27 

Rambouillet 18 

Ewes: 

Rambouillet 100 

MONTANA. 

Bams: 

Cotswoid 36 

Rambouillet 28 

Hampshire 14 

Dekme 11 

Oxford 6 

Merino 3 

Shropshire 2 

Ewes: 

Rambouillet 33 

Cotswoid 33 

Hampshire , 11 

Merino 14 

Delaine 9 

IDAHO. 

Rams: 

Cotswoid 35 

Shropshire 19 

Lincoln 16 

Hampshire 10 

Rambouillet 7 

Merino 6 

Delaine "    4 

Oxford 3 

Ewes: 

Merino 62 

Cotswoid 22 

Lincoln 13 

Delaine 3 

WYOMING. 

Bams: 

Merino 34 

Rambouillet 30 

Cotswoid 30 

Leicester 6 

Ewes: 

Merino 66 

Rambouillet 24 

Cotswoid 10 


In  Arizona  the  ewes  are  mostly  grade  merinos,  including  both  the 
American  and  Rambouillet  types.  In  some  flocks  will  be  found  ewes 
carrying  a  small  per  cent  of  Navajo  blood,  which  is  being  eliminated 
as  rapidly  as  possible.  The  mutton  blood  represented  in  the  ewes  is 
mostly  that  ot  the  Shropshire,  which  for  a  few  years  was  the  most 

Eopufar  breed  of  mutton  sheep  in  the  Southwest,  but  more  Ram- 
ouillet  rams  are  now  being  used.  This  is  largely  due  to  the  size  and 
the  mutton  conformation  of  the  breed.  Practically,  the  only  mutton 
breed  used  to  any  extent  is  the  Shropshire,  although  a  few  Oxfords 
are  being  tried, 

In  New  Mexico  the  ewes  are  largely  grade  merinos  of  the  American 
or  Spanish  and  Eambouillet  tjrpes. 

The  so-called  Mexican  merino  plays  an  important  part  in  the 
breeding  of  the  ewes  in  some  sections.    Shropshire  blood  is  also  rep- 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


607 


resented  to  a  certain  extent  in  the  ewe  stock.    Breeders  are  gradually 
ridding  their  flocks  of  Mexican  merino  blood. 

The  rams  used  in  New  Mexico  are  largely  grade  and  pure-bred 
Rambouillets  and  Delaine  merinos.  The  Rambouillet  is  being  used 
more  and  more  every  year  in  New  Mexico,  and  the  few  strictly  mutton 
rams  are  mostly  Shropshire.  One  or  two  breeders  are  giving  the 
Persiarino  a  trial  with  very  good  results. 

In  Colorado  the  ewes  are  largely  grade  merino  of  the  American, 
Mexican,  and  Rambouillet  type.  There  is  Shropshire,  Delaine,  Lin- 
coln, and  Oxford  blood  represented  in  many  of  the  ewes. 

The  Rambouillet  is  the  most  popular  type  of  fine-wool  rams  used 
in  this  State  at  the  present  time.  The  mutton  breeds  represented 
are  largely  the  Shropshire,  while  a  few  Lincolns,  Oxfords,  and  Cots- 
wolds  are  being  used. 

In  Utah  the  ewes  are  largely  grade  Rambouillet,  grade  merinos, 
and  grade  merino-Cotswold. 

The  rams  used  are  Cotswoid,  Rambouillet,  Lincoln,  and  Shropshire. 
Utah  breeders  are  using  a  large  number  of  Cotswoid  rams,  as  the 
ranges  of  this  State  are  especially  well  adapted  to  the  habits  of  this 
bred.  One  of  the  largest  pure-bred  flocks  of  Cotswolds  in  this 
country,  in  fact  in  the  world,  is  found  in  Utah. 

In  Nevada  the  ewes  are  largely  grade  merinos,  with  some  Delaine 
and  Rambouillet  blood.  The  mutton  blood  represented  in  the  ewe 
stock  is  mainly  that  of  the  Shropshire  and  Cotswoid.  There  is  not 
much  Mexican  blood  in  this  State.  The  rams  used  in  Nevada  are 
largely  Shropshire  with  some  Rambouillet  and  merinos  and  Cots- 
wolds. ^  „   ^  ^        .  ^ 

California  has  a  large  number  of  merinos  of  the  so-called  Spanish 
type,  and  in  some  sections  they  are  still  raising  merino  wethers  until 
they  are  from  2  to  4  years  of  age  before  marketing  them. 

The  Rambouillet  has  been  used  in  crossing  with  the  other  types  of 
merinos  largely  for  the  purpose  of  increasing  the  size  and  improving 
the  mutton  conformation,  and  to-day  some  of  the  best  Rambouillet 
flocks  in  the  United  States  are  found  in  California. 

The  mutton  blood  represented  in  the  ewe  stock  in  California  is 
mostly  Shropshire.  Shropshire  rams  are  the  most  popular  of  the 
mutton  rams,  and  during  the  past  few  years  a  number  of  pure-bred 
flocks  of  this  breed  have  been  established.  A  few  Cotswoid,  Hamp- 
shire, and  Southdown  rams  are  also  used. 

In  Oregon  the  ewes  are  largely  grade  merinos  of  the  Delaine  and 
Rambouillet  types.  The  mutton  blood  represented  in  the  ewe  stock 
is  largely  that  of  the  Cotswoid,  Lincoln,  and  Shropshire.  Oregon 
ewes  are  noted  all  over  the  range  country  for  tlieir  size,  and  ewes 
from  this  State  have  been  shipped  to  many  of  the  other  range  States 
for  breeding  purposes  and  the  foundation  of  range  flocks. 

The  Willamette  Valley,  in  the  northwestern  part  of  the  State,  is 
one  of  the  few  districts  of  the  West  especially  noted  for  the  produc- 
tion of  longwools,  such  as  the  Cotswoid  and  Lincoln.  During  the  past 
few  years  longwools  produced  in  this  valley  have  won  prizes  over 
imported  sheep  at  some  of  the  sheep  shows  in  the  Northwest. 

In  Washington  the  ewes  are  largely  grade  merino  of  the  Ram- 
bouillet and  Delaine  types.  The  majority  of  the  rams  used  are 
Shropshire^  Rambouillet,  and  Lincoln. 


608 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


nr  .  ^ontana  the  ewes  have  a  large  percentage  of  mutton  blood 
Most  of  the  ffrade  merinos  are  of  the  Rambouillet  and  Delaine  types* 
Ihe  mutton  blood  represented  in  the  ewe  stock  is  largely  that  of  the 
Cotswold,  Hampshire,  and  Shropshire  breeds.  The  ranges  in  this 
fetate  are  especially  well  adapted  for  handling  ewes  that  carry  a 
certain  percentage  of  mutton  blood.  Most  of  the  rams  used  are 
Cotswold,  Rambouillet,  Delaine,  Hampshire,  Oxford,  and  Shropshire. 

in  Idaho  the  ewes  are  largely  grade  merinos,  such  as  the  Delaine 
and  Kambouillets.  The  mutton  blood  represented  in  the  ewe  stock 
IS  generally  that  of  the  Cotswold,  Lincoln,  Hampshire,  and  Shrop- 
shire. The  rams  used  for  breeding  are  mainly  Cotswold,  Lincoln, 
Shropshire,  Hjampshire,  and  Rambouillet.  ' 

Idaho  stands  next  to  Nevada  in  the  number  of  mutton  rams  used 
in  her  flocks,  and  the  State  has  been  noted  during  the  past  few  years 
for  the  excellent  lambs  which  they  have  shipped  to  the  leading 
markets.  They  have  repeatedly  topped  the  early  markets,  both  for 
weight  and  finish,  while  the  growers  have  been  able  to  have  them 
S^t  ^^^P°^®^*  ^^^  «»®^o  *^ee  weeks  ahead  of  the  other  range 

K.'^^iiy^^'?'^!*^®  T^  are  largely  grade  merinos  of  the  Ram- 
bouillet and  Delaine  types.  The  mutton  blood  represented  in  the 
ewe  stock  is  mostly  that  of  the  Cotswold,  Lincoln,  Hampshire,  and 
Shropshire.  In  some  sections  of  the  St^te  the  ewes  carry  a  small 
percentage  of  I^icester  blood.  The  rams  used  for  breedinc.  are 
mainly  merino  Rambouillet,  Cotswold,  Lincoln,  Hampshire,  Oxford, 
Shropshire,  and  Leicester.  >  r        »  u. 


PART  11.  RAW  WOOLS.-ADDEi\DA. 


MOHAIR  PRODUCTION  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES. 


320S0°— H.  Doc.  342,  62-2,  vol  1 39 


609 


i 


THE  AITGORA  GOAT  AITD  MOHAIR  PRODUCTION  IN  THE  UinTED 

STATES. 


t 


In  1899  the  number  of  Angora  goats  in  the  United  States  was 
estimated  at  454,932  head,  over  two-thirds  of  which  were  in  the 
three  States  of  Texas,  CaUfornia,  and  New  Mexico.^  The  mohair 
from  these  goats  amounted  to  961,328  pounds. 

In  1910  there  were  practically  1,500,000  head  of  Angoras,  the 
majority  of  which  were  still  found  in  the  Southwest — ^in  Texas,  New 
Mexico,  and  Arizona.  The  hair  sheared  from  these  goats  in  1910 
amounted  to  over  4,250,000  pounds,  or  a  little  less  than  3  pounds 
per  head. 

In  1899  the  mills  of  the  United  States  used  1,077,000  pounds  of 
domestic  mohair,  which  undoubtedly  included  some  held  over  from 
the  crop  of  1898.  The  amount  of  imported  mohair  for  the  year  1899 
was  1,119,465  pounds,  making  a  total  of  2,196,465  pounds  used  in 
the  United  States  for  that  year. 

In  the  year  1910  the  importation  of  mohair,  including  alpaca,  into 
the  United  States  amounted  to  1,966,918  pounds. 

The  leading  Amerjcan  mills  using  mohair  report  that  for  the  year 
1910  they  used  a  total  of  3,648,868  pounds  of  domestic  mohair  and 
1,119,573  pounds  of  imported  mohair. 

These  figures,  both  for  the  number  of  pounds  of  mohair  produced 
and  the  amount  used  in  the  mills,  indicate  that  the  industry  has  made 
reasonable  advances  during  the  past  decade. 

Sources  of  mohair. — ^There  are  three  principal  sources  of  mohair  in 
the  world — Turkey,  South  Africa,  and  the  United  States. 

According  to  the  most  reliable  infoimation  available,  there  are  in 
the  region  about  the  velayet  of  Angora,  where  the  breed  of  Angora 
goats  originated,  approximately  1,200,000  of  these  goats. 

In  all  Africa,  but  mostly  in  the  Cape  Province  of  the  South  African 
Union,  there  are  about  3,585,000  Angoras,  with  about  5,000,000 
goats  of  the  common  breeds. 

Unfortunately  for  the  preservation  of  the  pure  Ajigora  blood,  the 
Turks  many  years  ago  began  to  cross  their  flocks  with  the  common 
'*Kurd"  goats,  which  resulted  in  so  great  an  infusion  of  inferior  blood 
that  to-day  all  goat  raisers  agree  that  there  are  no  '* pure-blood" 
Angoras  left,  those  now  used  being  more  or  less  contaminated  with 
the  common  blood. 

To  protect  its  flo€ks  from  being  drawn  upon  and  to  preserve  to  the 
Turkish  people  the  Angoras  in  their  purest  state,  the  Turkish  Govern- 
ment some  years  ago  prohibited  the  exportation  of  Angoras,  and  later 
the  South  African  Government,  evidently  alarmed  at  the  rapid  rise 
of  the  business  in  the  United  States,  placed  a  very  liigh  export  duty 
(£100  =  1484)  per  head  on  all  the  Angoras  exported  from  that  country 
and  subsequently  prohibited  their  export  entirely. 

The  Ajnerican  Angora  raiser  therefore  has  had  in  recent  years  but 
the  one  source  for  obtaining  new  blood  to  build  up  the  floc1?:s  in  tliis 


1  Agricultoial  statistics. 


6U 


612 


REPORT  OF  TAEIFF  BOAED  OX  SCHEDULE  K. 


BEPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


613 


couBtry— South  Africa;  but,  fortuBately,  before  the  Turkish  embargo 
was  passed  some  of  the  best  of  the  Turkish  goats  had  been  exported  to 
the  United  States  and  also  to  South  Africa,  so  that  in  all  probabihty, 
due  to  the  higher  interest  taken  by  the  Angora  raisers  in  these  coun- 
tries, it  is  not  Mkely  that  much  better  blood  can  be  procured  in  Angora 
itself  than  may  be  found  in  either  South  Africa  or  tlie  United  States. 
Mohair  and  its  uses, — As  stated  before,  in  the  year  1910  the  Ameri- 
can mills  used  almost  5,000,000  pounds  of  mohair,  about  two-tliirds 
of  which  was  of  American  raising. 

Comparing  the  imported  hair  with  the  domestic,  manufacturers 
agree  tliat  the  domestic  lacks  brightness  and  luster  and  does  not 
spin  so  well  as  the  Turkish  hair.  Omng  to  certain  climatic  condi- 
tions, especially  in  the  Southwest,  it  is  necessary  to  shear  the  goats 
twice  a  year,  wliich  of  course  results  in  a  much  shorter  staple,  whereas 
the  foreign  goats  are  generally  shorn  but  once  a  year. 

Every  effort  is  made  to  grow  as  long  a  staple  as  possible,  and  in 
Oregon  and  some  parts  of  California,  where  the  goats  are  sheared 
but  once  a  year,  the  production  of  hair  between  15  and  20  inches  in 
length  is  not  unusual  in  flocks  where  the  grade  has  been  kept  up  to 
the  highest  possible  standard. 

For  the  United  States  as  a  whole,  where  the  fleece  is  allowed  to 
grow  an  entire  year,  the  average  length  is  about  10  inches. 

The  imported,  hair  shrinks  on  an  average  of  about  14  per  cent,  the 
domestic  17  per  cent.  The  amount  of  the  shrinkage  varies  greatly, 
however,  with  the  State  or  section  from  which  it  is  shipped,  that  of 
the  Southwest  being  of  a  much  heavier  shrinkage  than  hair  received 
from  the  Northwest, 

The  following  articles  are  made  from  mohair:  Plushes  used  for 
railway  cars  and  upholstering  furniture^  coat  linings,  dress  goods, 
men's  summer  suits,  automobile  tops,  braids,  rugs,  and  carriage  robes, 
imitation  furs  for  women's  and  children's  wear,  couch  and  table  covers, 
portieres,  and  crimped  and  curled  mohair  for  making  false  hair.  The 
skins  tanned  with  tha  hair  on  are  used  extensively  for  carriage  robes, 
muffs,  and  trimmings  for  coats  and  capes. 

The  market  for  mohair  is  dependent  very  greatly  upon  the  caprices 
of  fashion;  a  change  in  the  fasliion  for  women's  clothes  may  result  in 
either  a  ^eater  demand  for  mohair  or  a  heavy  falling  oft.  At  the 
present  time  the  fashions  call  for  a  large  amount  of  manufactured 
goods  in  which  mohau-  enters,  with  the  result  that  the  prices  and 
demand  for  mohair  for  the  past  two  years  have  been  very  much 
improved. 

Considering  the  amount  of  domestic  hair  now  being  produced  and 
the  amount  used  by  the  American  mills,  it  is  apparent  that  the  future 
of  Angora  goat-raising  industry  Mes  in  imj^rovmg  rather  than  increas- 
ing their  output  of  mohair  and  in  educating  the  American  people  to 
the  eating  of  **Angora  mutton." 

The  margin  between  the  supply  of  American  mohair  and  mill 
demand  seems  to  be  approximately  the  number  of  pounds  of  hair 
imported.  One  reason  for  the  importations  appears  to  be  that  there 
is  a  shortage  of  the  higher  grades  in  the  domestic  supply.  The 
American  growers  can  possibly  increase  their  mohair  shipments  to 
this  amount  without  overtaking  the  mill  demand,  provided,  always, 
they  can  improve  the  grade  of  the  hair  until  it  is  equal  or  superior  to 
the  imported  article.    Most  mohair  experts  agree  that  when  proper 


care  and  attention  is  given,  American  mohair  equal  to  the  best  South 
African  or  Turkish  mohair  can  be  raised  in  this  country. 

Quality  of  the  hair. — The  manufacturers  state  that  as  a  general 
thing  the  production  of  domestic  hair  has  improved  greatly  during 
the  last  few  years,  both  in  staple  and  in  freedom  from  kemp  or  dead 
hairs.  In  using  the  domestic  and  imported  hair  the  manufacturers 
usually  blend  the  imported  in  such  a  proportion  as  to  enable  them  to 
use  the  resulting  blend  in  most  of  their  products. 

As  the  goat  grows  older  the  fiber  of  the  hair  becomes  straighter  and 
thicker  and  loses  its  curly  quahty  as  well  as  its  luster;  hence  the  best 
hair  comes  from  the  kids,  young  wethers,  and  young  does. 

The  highest  grade  of  monair  should  hang  in  curly  ringlets  from  all 
parts  of  the  animaFs  body.  The  mohair  manufacturers  prefer  hair 
not  less  than  6  inches  in  length,  one  of  the  leading  mills  stating  that 
they  could  use  very  Httle  of  the  southwestern  hair  on  account  of  its 
being  too  short.  Some  Texas  flocks  were  investigated  where  the 
growers  had  produced  fleeces  from  15  to  22  inches  long,  and  such 
fleeces  were  sold  for  special  purposes,  bringing  very  high  prices. 

The  majority  of  the  manufacturers  purchase  a  large  percentage  of 
their  hair  direct  from  the  growers,  either  personally  or  through  selling 
agencies  established  by  the  Angora  Goat  Association  in  the  West. 

The  great  effort  of  the  Angora  raisers  of  to-day  is  to  develop  a 
goat  that  will  shear  a  long  lustrous,  curly  fleece  of  fine  character 
and  free  from  the  obnoxious  "kemp." 

Kemp  is  the  long  coarse  hair  wnich,  with  very  few  exceptions,  is 
found  m  even  the  best  of  the  Angoras.  It  is  believed  to  be  a  last 
reminder  of  the  common  blood  wliich  was  bred  into  the  original  herds 
in  Turkey,  and  in  the  judgment  of  some  of  the  best  growers  it  will 
never  be  completely  eradicated. 

The  objection  to  kemp  is  that  it  will  not  take  any  of  the  dyes  used 
in  dyemg  mohair,  and  for  this  reason  the  manufactured  goods  are 
defective  whenever  the  kemp  is  used. 

Kemp  can  readily  be  discovered  in  a  fleece  as  it  lacks  the  luster  or 
sheen  or  the  true  mohair,  being  a  dead  chalky  white  and  coarser  than 
the  rest  of  the  fleece. 

Shearing. — Goats  are  sheared  in  the  Southwest  in  the  spring,  gen- 
eraUy  in  February,  March,  or  April,  and  again  in  September  or  October. 
The  shearing  is  done  either  by  hand  or  by  machine,  the  cost  varying 
from  5  to  8  cents  per  head.  The  fleeces  are  not  tied  but  siniply  roUed 
and  sacked,  the  kid  mohair  being  sacked  by  itself. 

The  average  shearing  value  of  the  American  Angora  is  not  as  high 
as  it  probably  might  be,  due  to  the  admixture  of  common  blood  in 
many  of  the  flocks.  The  average  for  the  higher  class  flocks  is  prob- 
ably over  3§  pounds  per  head,  but  taking  the  country  over,  it  is 
proDable  that  the  average  will  be  somewhat  under  2 J  pounds.  The 
average  of  aU  the  flocks  investigated  by  the  board  is  about  3J 
pounds.  One  registered  flock  containing  227  head  averaged  5J 
pounds  each.  However,  a  high  shearing  average  is  not  altogether  an 
evidence  of  superior  mohair.  The  average  for  the  Turldsh  Angoras 
is  but  2}  pounds  per  head  according  to  the  best  authority  available, 
while  that  for  South  Africa  is  above  3  J  pounds  per  head. 

It  is  stated,  however,  that  the  Turkish  product  is  of  much  higher 
value  per  pound  than  that  of  South  Africa,  and  it  is  probable  that  the 
latter  region  shears  manv  older  goats,  which  increases,  the  output  per 


S14 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD   ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


liead  but  reduces  the  fineness  of  the  mohair.  It  is  noted  that  a  number 
of  flocks  in  western  United  States  do  not  shear  to  exceed  li  to  2 
pounds  per  head  of  a  veiy  mediocre  chiss  of  hair  which  brings  the 
lowest  price  in  the  market.  Goats  of  this  class  naturally  receive 
but  Mttle  attention,  and  the  income  from  the  sales  of  hair  is  small. 

Handling  goats  on  range. — In  general,  the  goats  are  handled  much 
the  same  as  sheep,  excepting  that  the  constant  presence  of  the 
herder  is  not  necessary.  Many  goat  men  turn  the  goats  out  of  the 
pens  in  the  earlv"  morning,  sending  a  dog  with  them  to  keep  away 
wild  animals.  During  the  day  the  herder  rides  out  to  the  herd  once 
or  twice,  and  notes  the  direction  in  which  they  are  feeding.  As  a 
general  thing,  if  they  are  allowed  to  graze  alone,  the  goats  wul  travel 
too  fast  and  cover  too  much  country,  which  is  injurious  to  the  range 
as  well  as  to  the  animals.  »Careful  herders  remain  with  their  goats 
and  check  this  tendency  to  travel. 

The  necessary  equipment  for  goats  is  somewhat  similar  to  that 
of  sheep  raising,  it  being  absolutely  necessary  that  proper  sheds 
should  be  furnished  to  shelter  the  goats  during  wet  weather,  as 
thmr  are  very  susceptible  to  moisture. 

Contrary  to  general  belief,  no  domestic  animal  is  more  fastidious 
as  to  its  food  than  the  Angora.  When  fed  hay  or  other  artificial 
foods,  everv  care  must  be  taken  to  keep  it  away  from  the  mud  and 
dirt,  as  they  will  refuse  to  touch  any  food  which  is  soiled  or  trampled 
into  the  ground.  Muddy  or  foul  drinking  water  will  not  answer  for 
Angoras,  and  fresh  water  must  be  furnished  if  they  are  to  do  well 
either  on  the  range  or  in  feed  lots. 

Angoras  will  always  endeavor  to  find  shelter  on  the  approach  of  a 
storm  and  must  have  sheds  under  which  to  creep  durmg  stormy 
weather.  As  long  as  it  is  clear  and  cold,  or  the  snow  is  dry,  they 
are  comfortable  and  remain  out;  but  with  their  long,  open  fleece 
they  are  soon  soaked  if  out  in  the  rain  and  are  seriously  affected 
by  the  moisture  on  their  bodies. 

Angoras  require  plenty  of  air  and  light,  and  all  sheds  provided 
must  be  open  as  much  as  possible  and  still  keep  out  the  rain  or 
snow.  Their  pens  should  never  be  so  located  as  to  become  muddy, 
for  the  long,  silky  fleece  will  pick  up  a  great  weight  of  mud,  which 
not  only  burdens  the  animal  but  stains  and  injures  the  fleece. 

Increase  and  losses. — ^The  average  per  cent  of  increase  from  bred 
does  for  1910,  a  bad  year,  was  56.5  per  cent.  The  normal  average 
for  the  flocks  investigated  by  the  Tariff  Board  for  the  entire  Southwest 
will  not  exceed  65  per  cent.  In  some  few  registered  flocks,  where 
especially  good  care  was  given  at  kidding  time,  an  increase  of  over  100 

Eer  cent  was  recorded.  The  losses  among  the  kids  are  frequently  very 
eavy.  The  losses  among  the  older  goats  are  mainly  due  to  preda- 
tor)' animals,  climatic  conditions,  and  starvation.  Cold  rains  after 
shearing  frequently  cause  heavy  loss.  The  spring  of  1010  all  over 
the  Southwest  was  a  most  unfortunate  one  for  all  Angora  goat  grow- 
ers, the  loss  in  some  cases  being  almost  total,  while  in  many  instances 
it  has  been  estimated  that  50  per  cent  of  the  goats  died  from  the 
extremely  cold,  wet  weather  of  that  period. 

Contrary  to  the  general  understanding,  the  raismg  of  Angora  goats 
is  rather  difficult.  The  young  are  much  more  delicate  than  lambs, 
and  the  mortality  greater,  especially  among  the  well-bred  anhnab. 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


615 


i|b 


A  great  deal  of  personal  care  is  absolutely  necessary  in  raising  the 
kiefs  up  to  about  2  months  of  age.  Many  methods  are  adopted  in 
handling  the  kids,  it  having  been  found  necessary  not  to  allow  them 
to  follow  the  doe  out  on  the  ranges  for  some  weeks  after  they  are 
born. 

Br<ywsina  habits  of  goats. — The  browsing  habit  of  the  goat  makes 
them  available  on  large  areas  of  land  where  other  domestic  animals 
would  not  find  sufficient  feed.  Goats  relish  and  thrive  on  all 
manner  of  browses;  on  leaves,  shrubs,  and  small  trees;  and  moderate 
amounts  of  weeds  and  grass.  Contrary  to  the  general  opinion,  goats 
will  not  do  well  on  brush  alone,  although  a  large  part  of  their 
food  is  browse.  Their  liking  for  browsing  has  led  to  goats  being 
introduced  in  many  States  solely  for  the  purpose  of  clearing  the  land 
of  brush  and  bringing  it  into  pasturage.  This  same  liking  for 
browsing  has  causecT  their  exclusion  from  many  parts  of  the  national 
forests  throughout  the  West  and  on  watersheds  where  it  was  desirable 
to  protect  the  brushy  cover  in  order  to  prevent  erosion  and  the  filling 
up  by  silt  of  the  reservoirs  for  water  supply  either  for  cities  or  agri- 
cultural purposes. 

The  labor  cost  is  approximately  that  of  sheep  in  the  same  region, 
the  number  of  men  employed  per  thousand  being  about  the  same. 
While  more  herders  are  required  for  goats,  owing  to  the  fact  that 
they  do  not  thrive  well  in  large  bands,  there  is  a  very  decided  sav- 
ing in  other  labor  as  compared  with  sheep,  which  about  balances  the 
labor  costs. 

The  land  upon  wliich  goats  thrive  best  being  generally  useless  for 
any  other  domestic  animals,  its  actual  or  rentiu  value  is  much  below 
the  average  for  sheep  or  cattle,  although  on  the  various  national 
forests  practically  the  same  fees  are  charged  for  goats  as  for  sheep. 
The  total  average  yearly  cost  for  grazing  for  one  goat  is  about  the 
same  or  somewhat  less  than  the  cost  for  one  sheep  in  the  same  region. 

These  figures  are,  of  course,  for  range-raised  goats  and  do  not  apply 
to  those  which  are  raised  in  small  flocks  upon  farms  or  within  small 
pastures. 

Beceipts.- — The  average  receipts  from  mohair  per  goat  are  approxi- 
mately $1.02.  The  average  price  per  pound  for  all  the  flocks  mves- 
tigated  was  29  cents.  Owing  to  the  varying  conditions  under  which 
the  mutton  is  sold  it  is  impossible  to  make  any  averages  from  that 
source  wliich  will  be  fair  to  the  entire  goat-raising  region. 

A  statement  from  one  of  the  large  commission  firms  in  Kansas  City, 
covering  the  year  1910,  show^  that  nearly  aU  the  goats  shipped  to 
Kansas  City  (which  is  the  largest  goat  market  in  the  countrj^)  come 
from  the  Southwest.  This  firm  handled  practically  all  the  goata 
shipped  during  that  year  and  the  average  weight  was  63  pounds  each. 
The  amount  received  for  the  goats  varied  widely,  one  shipment  hav- 
ing netted  but  40  cents  per  head,  while  the  highest  netted  $3.27  per 
head,  with  an  average  net  value  of  $1.75. 

Tliroughout  the  Southwest  it  has  been  noted  that  breeders  who  have 
been  careful  in  the  improvement  of  their  floclcs,  and  given  them  the 
same  care  which  the  sheep  man  gives  his  flocks,  have  made  a  profit  out 
of  their  investment.  This  profit  has,  of  course,  been  greater  or  smaller 
in  accordance  with  the  ability  to  market  the  mutton.  Unfortunately, 
however,  a  large  number  of  the  goat  raisei-s  in  the  Southwest  merely 


616 


xSiilrUxlJ.     UJJ     XAltiJJJ?     jSyJAMlJ    Uls     sSKitl  Vil) V  iusii    SL, 


#<l 


handle  the  goata  as  a  side  issue  to  other  operations  or  to  utilize  certain 
portions  of  their  range  not  available  for  other  domestic  animals, 
tinder  such  circumstances  the  care  necessary  to  improve  the  breed 
and  obtain  the  greatest  income  from  the  goats  is  lacking.  Such  men 
have  made  little  or  no  money  in  Angoras. 

The  average-grade  Angora  goat  throughout  the  Southwest  is  valued 
at  approximately  $3.25  per  head.  The  average  value  of  all  the  flocks 
investigated  by  the  board  is  $4.31  per  head. 

In  southern  New  Mexico,  in  the  vicinity  of  Silver  City  and  Lake 
Valley,  a  number  of  very  high-grade  Angora  flocks  are  found.  There 
are  also  several  excellent  flocks  in  southern  Arizona.  In  California 
they  are  scattered,  some  of  the  leading  flocks  of  registered  and  high- 
grade  goats  being  found  near  San  Jose,  while  in  the  northern  part 
there  are  many  large  flocks  of  grade  goats.  In  Oregon,  in  the  Wil- 
lamette Valley,  there  are  some  small  flocks  of  high-grade  Angoras, 
producing  an  extremely  useful  and  lustrous  quality  of  hair,  very  free 
from  kemp  and  comparing  favorably  with  imported  hair.  One  of  the 
best  flocks  in  the  United  States  is  found  in  Montana,  but  there  are 
comparatively  few  Angoras  in  that  State. 

Large  prices  have  been  paid  in  past  years  for  improved  South 
African  bucks,  $5,000  having  been  paid  by  a  New  Mexican  goat  grower 
several  years  ago. 


il 


[SEE  VOL.   II   FOR  INDEX  TO   BOTH   VOLUMES.] 


62d  Congress,  \ 
M  Session      } 


.Lalioiittocy 

'Columbia  University' 
Ntff  ¥f>ii|' 


HOUSE  OF  REPRESENTATIVES 


/  Document 
I    No.  342 


KTT^ 


WOOL  AND  MANUFACTURES  OF  WOOL 


MESSAGE  OF  THE 
PRESIDENT  OF  THE   UNITED  STATES 

TRANSMITTING  A 

REPORT  OF  THE  TARIFF  BOARD 


ON 


SCHEDULE  K 

OF  THE  TARIFF  LAW 


IN  TWO  VOLUMES 

VOLUME  II  (Parts  3,  4,  5,  and  Index) 

Manufacturing  Costs,  Tops,  Yarn,  and 
Cloth 

Ready-Made  Clothing 

Wages  and  Efficiency  of  Labor  and 
Machinery  in  the  United  States 


December  21,  1911.— Referred  to  the  Committee  on  Ways  and  Means 
and  ordered  to  be  printed  with  illustrations 


WASHINGTON 

GOVERNMENT  PRINTING  OFFICE 

1912 


■  ? 

I 


CONTENTS. 


Remlved  by  the  Hovm  of  Representatives  (the  Senate  concurring) ^  That  there  be 
printed  20,000  additional  copies  of  House  Document  No.  342,  being  the  message  of 
the  President  of  the  United  States  transmitting  a  report  of  the  Tariff  Board  on 
Schedule  K  of  the  tariff  law,  12,000  copies  for  the  use  of  the  House  of  Representa- 
tives and  8,000  copies  for  the  use  of  the  Senate. 

Agreed  to  March  1, 1912. 


I 


.  Part  3.  Manufacturing  Costs.  Page. 

Section  1.  Manufacturing  costs— Extent  of  the  investigation 619 

Section  2.  Weavers'  wage  scale  and  agreements  from  England,  Germany, 

Austria,  France,  and  Belgium 713 

Spinning  Mage  scales  and  costs  in  Germany,  England  and  Belgium  ..  775 

Dyeing  and  finishing 737 

Part  4.  Ready-Made  Clothing  and  Wearing  Apparel. 

Section  1.  Ready-made  clothing 345 

Section  2.  Fancy  knit  goods '.'.'.'. .1'.'.'.'.]'.'.  911 

Part  5.  Report  on  Wages  and   Efficiency  of   Labor  and  Machinery  "in 

United  States , 947 

General  table ........[.'..  1080 

General  index 


ILLUSTRATION 


Top  prices,  January,  1907,  to  October,  1911  (diagram), 
32080°— H.  Doc.  342,  62-2,  vol  2 1 


Facing  page. 
644 


III 


mm 


II 


PART  IIL-MANUFACTURING  COSTS, 


¥-\ 


■> 


SECTION  1. 


617 


iWi 


y 


h  ■  I 


Il'' 


••A 


f         . 


MAlTUFACTUEmG  COSTS. 

EXTENT  OF  THE   INVESTIGATION. 

^  ^^  ^^1  Jl^Ti  ^^  *^®  '^.?^^  ^.^^  worsted  inquiry  agents  of  the  board 
visited  188  different  mdls.  In  some  of  tliese,  eitlier  on  account  of 
lacfe  of  cooperation  on  the  part  of  the  manufacturer  or  lack  of  system 
m  accounting,  it  was  impossible  to  secure  results  that  were  of  practical 
use  to  the  board.  ^ 

In  addition  to  these  mills  there  were  a  number  of  others  that  were 
asked  to  give  assistance  and  information,  but  who  decHned  to  permit 
agents  of  the  board  to  visit  them. 

Verified  mformation  was  obtamed  from  174  mills,  and  such  infor- 
mation was  taken  by  the  agents  themselves  by  personal  visits.  These 
estabhshments  represent  20  States,  as  follows: 

Connecticut,  Delaware,  Ilhnois,  Indiana,  Iowa,  Kentucky,  Maine. 

&v\^T^^^T?'^^^\^^^-^^^  ^^^  Hampshire,  New  Jersey 
New  York,  Ohio  Pennsylvania,  Khode  Island, "^Vermont,  Virginil 
West  Vu-gmia,  and  Wisconsm.  '        ^       ' 

« i^-S'l?''?^  *^fu  ^^f  ^^  *^^*  *^®  mformation  was  obtamed  from 
wlHc  1  the  b^rd  has  derived  its  conclusions  as  to  cost  of  manufacture 
n?  f T.!  -""^^  efficiency  m  the  United  States.  They  are  representative 
01  tlie  mdustry  m  this  country,  and  comprise  over  two-thirds  of 
Its  productive  capacity.  These  mills  run  46,280  looms,  which  is  64, 
per  cent  of  a  1  of  the  woo  en  and  worsted  looms  m  the  country,  and  70 
UJ!ff  ?n  '^  ^^X^^^i^?  making  woolen  and  worsted  cloth.  The 
of  looml  i^  ^flf.TM^'^U^'r^.^^  ehmmatmg  from  the  total  number 
inkT,  glttpKe?  a'nTt^ &  '^^^^^'  ^^  ^^^  -^-^-^"-  ^' 

tion^k  ^O^fiQO  t^.^f'^-^'ir^^''^^^  ^r  ^^^  ^^"«  ^^i^g  «"«^  informa- 
tion IS  108,690,  which  is  64  per  cent  of  the  total  number  employed  in 

Jff  l?lf     "^^    emplovees  working  on  the  commonly  understood  lines 
of  woolen  and  worsted  cloth.  . 

These  mills  represent  1,900,636  producmg  spmdles. 

coSnintTrJfnTnL^^^  ^^'?  "?/  ^"^^  t  ^^-^r"^  establishment  to  one 
fromTo  to  9;000  ''"'^^^'  ^^  employees  the  range  is 

dle?to^%"^JJ^^pL^^^^^        exclusively  the  range  is  from  4,400  spin- 
st^^S:^^^;'  *^^  cloth-makmg  mills  visited  is 

Mills  under  60  looms 

From  50  to  100  looms 21 

From  100  to  200  looms ^8 

From  200  to  600  looms ^] 

From  600  to  1,000  looms [ :  24 

From  1,000  to  2,000  looms ■'^ 

0  ver  2,000  looms '.'.*.".' ^ 

4 

619 


*%''' ' 


620 


KEPOET  OF  TARIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K, 


BEPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


621 


WOOLEN   AND   WORSTED   MILLS  VISITED. 

The  following  list  gives  the  names  of  the  mills  from  which  inf orma- 
tion  was  secured  by  the  agents  of  the  board: 

iEina  Milk,  Watertown,  Maes*  Akere  &  Taylor  Manufacturing  Co.,  Charlton  Citv 
Mass.;  Algonquin  Co.,  Passaic,  ^.  J.;  American  Mills  Co.,  Rockville,  Conn.    Amoa 
Abbott  Co.,  Dexter,  Me.;  Amoekeag  ManulactmingCo.,  Manchester,  N.  H.;  Anderson 
Mills,  Skowhegan,  Me.;  Andrews  Mill  Co.,  Prankford,  Pa.;  Arlington  Mills,  Lawrence 
Mass.;  AssabetMill,  Maynard,  Maes,;  Aaeawaga  Co.,  Killiiigly,  Conn.^  Atlantic  Mills' 
Providence,  R.  I.  ' 

Ballard  vale  Mills  Co.,  Ballardvale,  Mass.;  Beebee,  Webber  Co.,  Holyoke,  Mass  • 
Beoli  Mill,  Fitchburg,  Mass.;  Berkshire  Woolen  &  Worsted  Co.,  Pittsfield,  Mass' 
Blackinton  Co.,  Blackinton,  Mass.;  Blumenthal,  Sidney,  A  Co.,  Sheiton  Conn  • 
Bochmann,  F.  A.,  &  Co.,  Philadelphia;  Botany  Worsted  Mill,  Passaic,  N  J  •  Bound 
Brook  Woolen  Mills,  Bound  Brook,  N.J.;  Brighton  Worsted  Co.,  Philadelphia  Pa  • 
Brightwood  Manufacturing  Co.,  North  Andover,  Mass.;  Broad  Brook  Co.,  Broad  Brook' 
Conn.;  Broadhead  Worsted  Mills,  Jamestown,  N.Y.;  Brown's  Sons,  Geo..  Mount  Jov 
Pa.;  BurHngton  Mills,  Winooski,  Vt.  ^* 

Caledonia  Woolen  Mills,  Clifton  Heights,  Pa.;  Capital  City  Woolen  Mills,  Dea 
Homes,  Iowa;  Charlottesville  Woolen  Mills,  Charlottesville,  Va.;  Clevehind  Worsted 
Mills  Co.,  Cleveland,  Ohio;  Clinton  Woolen  Manufacturing  Co.,  Clinton,  Mich  ; 
Cocheco  Woolen  Manufacturing  Co.,  East  Rochester,  N.  H.;  Collingwood  Mills,  Phila- 
delphia, Pa.;  Coronet  Worsted  Co.,  Mapleville,  R.  I.;  Cowan  Woolen  Co.,  Lewiston, 
Me.;  Crawford  Woolen  Co.,  Martinsbuig,  W.  Va.;  Crown  Mills,  Marcellus,  N.  Y. 

Davis  &  Brown  Woolen  Co.,  Uxbridge,  Mass.;  Delaine  Mills,  ManajTink,  Pa.;  Dunn 
Worsted  Mills,  Woonsocket,  R.  I.;  Dustin  Island  Woolen  Mills,  Penacook,  N.  H 

Elm  Mills  Woolen  Co.,  Tilton,  N.  H.;  Emerald  MUls,  Philadelphia,  Pa.;  Empire 
Worsted  Mills,  Jamestown,  N.  Y.;  Erben-Harding  Co.,  Philadelphia,  Pa. 

Falls  City  Woolen  Mills,  Louisville,  Ky.;  Farr  Alpaca  Co.,  Holyoke,  Mass.;  Faulk- 
ner &  Colony  Manufacturing  Co.,  Keene,  N.  H.;  Faulkner  Woolen  Mills,  Stafford 
Springs,  Conn.;  Fern  Rock  Woolen  Mills,  Philadelphia,  Pa.;  Forstmann  &  Huffmann, 
Passaic,  N.  J.;  Foxcroft  Woolen  Mills,  Foxcroft,  Ale.;  Franklin  Mills,  Franklin  Falls, 
N.  H.;  French  River  Textile  Co.,  MechanicsviUe,  Conn.;  Fulton  Mills,  Fulton,  N  Y 

Garfield  Worsted  Mills,  Garfield,  N.  J.;  Gera  Mills,  Passaic,  N.  J.;  Germania  Mills, 
Holyoke,  Mass.;  Gilbert,  Geo.  H.,  Manufacturing  Co.,  Ware,  Mass.;  Glazier  Manu- 
^cturing  Co.,  South  Glastonbur}'.  Conn.;  Gleason,  A.  D.,  Gleasondale,  Mass.;  Globe 
Woolen  Co.,  Utica,N.  Y.;  Gonic  Manufacturing  Co.,  Gonic,  N.  H.;  Goodall  Worsted 
Co.,  Sanford,  Me.;  Granite  State  Mills,  Guild,  N.  H.;  Great  Falls  Woolen  Co.,  Somers- 
worth,  N.  H.;  Greystone Mills,  Greystone,  R.  I.;  Groveland  Mills,  Groveland,  Mass.: 
Grundv,  Wm.  H.,  &  Co.,  Bristol,  Pa.  ' 

Hadlev  Mills,  South  Hadley  Falls,  Mass. ;  Hall  Bros.,  Preston,  Conn.;  Hampden 
Woolen  Mills,  Bristol,  R.  I.-  Hetzel,  Geo.  C,  Co..  Chester,  Pa.:  Hillsboro  Woolen 
Mills  Co.,  Hillsboro  Bridge,  N.  H.;  Hockanum  Mills  Co.,  Rockville,  Conn.,  Holden- 
Leonard  Co.,  Bennington,  Vt. 

Intervale  Mills  Corporation,  Quinebaug,  Conn. 

Jacksonville' Woolen  Mills,  Jacksonville,  III.;  Jamestown  Worsted  Mills,  James- 
town, N.  Y. 

Kent,  Thoe.,  Manufacturing  Co.,  Clifton  Heights,  Pa.;  Kiamensi  Woolen  Co., 
Stanton,  Del.;  Kunhardt,  Geo.  E.,  Lawrence,  Mass. 

La  Porte  Woolen  Mills,  La  Porte,  Ind.;  Leominster  Worsted  Co.,  Leominster,  Mass.; 
Lippitt  Woolen  Co.,  Woonsocket,  R.  I.;  Lorraine  Manufacturing  Co.,  Pawtucket,  R.I. 

Mabbett,  Geo.,  &  Sons  Co.,  Plymouth,  Mass.;  Madison  Woolen  Co.,  Madison,  Me.; 


j.,c.xx.v^iuii  ifv«oM/u  vvf.,  j.jiiaiAfx,  x\.  X.,  xiauuiuu-jrruviueuce  woreiea  jyiiiis,  rrov- 
Idence,  R.  I.;  Nemasket  Worsted  Mills,  Middleboro,  Mass.;  New  Jersey  Worsted 
Spinning  Co.,  Garfield,  N.  J.;  North  Adams  Manufacturing  Co.,  North  Adams,  Mass.; 
Norwalk  Mills  Co.,  Winnipauk,  Conn. 

Oakes,  Thoe.,  &  Co.,  Bloomfield,  N.  J.;  Oella  Mills,  Oella,  Md. 

Pacific  MHls,  Lawrence,  Mass. ;  Park  Mills,  Phihidelphia,  Pa. ,  Peace  Dale  Manufac- 
tunng  Co.,  Peace  Dale,  R.  I.;  Pentucket  Mills,  Haverhill,  Mass.,  Pequea  Mills,  Phil- 
adelphia, Pa.;  Perseverance  Worsted  Co.,  Woonsocket,  R.  I.;  Pioneer  Woolen  Mills, 
Pittsfield,  Me.;  Piscataquis  Woolen  Co.,  Guilford,  Me.;  Pocasset  Worsted  Co.,  Thorn- 
ton, R.  I.;  Pontoosuc  Woolen  Manufacturing  Co.,  Pittsfield,  Mass.;  Prendergast, 
Wm.  fl.,  Bridgeton,  R.  I.;  Princeton  Worated  Mills,  Trenton,  N.  J. 


"(0 


1^ 


y 


Raritan  Woolen  Mills,  Raritan,  N.  J.;  R^ar,  N.  K.,  Manufacturing  Co.,  Philadel- 
phia, Pa.;  Reliance  Worsted  Co.,  Norwich,  Conn.;  Ricketts  &  Shaw,  Monson,  Mass.; 
Riverside  Woolen  Mills,  Stafford,  Conn.;  Robertsford  Worsted  Mills,  Fitchbuig, 
Mass.;  Rock  Manufacturing  Co.,  Rockville,  Conn.;  Rockville  Worsted  Co.,  Rock- 
ville, Conn.;  Russell,  S.  N.,  &  C,  Manufacturing  Co.,  Pittsfield,  Mass. 

Salts  Textile  Manufacturing  Co.,  Norwalk,  Conn.;  Sawyer  Mills,  Dover,  N.  H.; 
Saxon ville  Mill,  Saxonville,  Mass. ;  Sayles  &  Jenks  Manufacturing  Co.,  Warren,  Mass.; 
Schuster  Woolen  Co.,  East  Douglas,  Mass.;  Scotia  Worsted  Mills,  Woonsocket,  R.  I.; 
Selden  Worsted  MUls,  Lawrence,  Mass.;  Shackamaxon  Mills,  Philadelphia,  Pa.; 
Shelboume  Mills,  Philadelphia,  Pa. ;  Shetucket  Worsted  Mills,  Baltic,  Conn. ;  Shirreffs 
Worsted  Co. ,  Fitchburg,  Mass. ;  Silesia  Worsted  Mills,  North  Chelmsford,  Mass. ;  Slater, 
S.,  &  Sons,  Webster,  Mass.;  Smith,  I.  W.,  Woolen  Co.,  Bridgeport,  Pa.;  Smith  Woolen 
Co.,  Pittsfield,  Me.;  Somerset  Manufacturing  Co.,  Raritan,  N.  J.;  Somerset  Woolen 
Co.,  Monson,  Mass.;  Somersville  Manufacturing  Co  ,  Somersville,  Conn.;  South  Bend 
Woolen  Co.,  South  Bend,  Ind.;  Standish  Worsted  Co.,  Plymouth,  Mass.;  Star  Worsted 
Co.,  Fitchburg,  Mass.;  Stevens  Mill,  North  Andover,  Mass.;  Stirling  Mills,  Lowell, 
Mass.;  Strong,  Hewat  &  Co.,  North  Adams,  Mass. 

Taconic  Mills,  Pittsfield,  Mass.;  Talbot  Mills,  North  Billerica,  Mass. ;  Talcott  Bros., 
Talcott ville.  Conn.;  Thombury  Worsted  Mills,  Bristol,  Pa.;  Tremont  Worsted  Co., 
Methuen,  Mass. 

United  States  Bunting  Co.,  Lowell,  Mass.;  United  States  Worsted  Co.,  Lawrence, 
Mass.;  Uxbridge  Worsted  Co.,  Uxbridge,  Mass. 
-    Vassalboro  Woolen  Mills,  North  Vassalboro,  Me. 

Walworth  Bros.,  Lawrence,  Mass.;  Wanskuck  Co.,  Providence,  R.  I.;  Warren 
Woolen  Co.,  Stafford  Springs,  Conn.;  Warrenton  Woolen  Co.,  Torrington,  Conn.; 
Washington  Mills,  Lawrence,  Mass.;  Waterhouse  &  Howard,  North  Adams,  Mass.; 
Waterloo  Woolen  Manufacturing  Co.,  Waterloo,  N.  Y.;  Waucantuck  Mills,  Uxbridge, 
Mass.;  Waverly  Woolen  Co.,  Pittsfield,  Me.;  Webster  Woolen  Co.,  Sabattus,  Me.; 
Western  Worsted  Mills,  Milwaukee,  Wis.;  Woolen  Manufacturing  Co.,  Beaver  Dam, 
Wis.;  Wood  Worsted  Mill,  Lawrence,  Mass.;  Worcester  Woolen  Mill  Co.,  Worcester, 
Mass. 

Yale  Woolen  Mills,  Yale,  Mich. ;  Yorkshire  Worsted  Mills,  Lenni,  Pa. 

COMPENSATORY  DUTIES. 

The  specific  duties  now  levied  on  manufactures  of  wool  are  intended 
to  compensate  the  American  manufacturer  for  the  enhancement  in 

Erice  01  his  raw  material  attributable  to  the  duty  on  grease  wool, 
a  fixing  the  amount  of  this  compensation  it  was  assumed  that  4 
pounds  of  grease  wool  went  into  the  making  of  a  pound  of  cloth,  and 
that  three-fourths  of  the  height  of  the  manufacturer's  raw  material 
was  irrecoverably  lost. 

In  a  former  section  of  this  report  has  already  been  discussed  the 
loss  that  occurs  in  the  scouring  process.  It  remains  to  point  out  the 
range  of  weight  losses  that  occur  in  turning  scoured  wool  into  finished 
cloth.  That  these  losses  have  a  considerable  range  of  variation  not 
only  from  mill  to  mill,  but  also  from  time  to  time  m  the  same  mill,  is 
due  to  three  things.  First,  scoured  wool  varies  somewhat  both  as 
to  staple  and  as  to  its  content  of  foreign  matter,  such  as  burs  and 
seeds,  that  the  scouring  process  does  not  remove.  Second,  the 
wastes  made  in  successive  processes  vary  both  with  the  skill  and 
efficiency  of  men  and  machmes,  and  also  with  the  business  poUcy 
of  the  management.  Some  mills  aiming  at  bulk  and  rapidity  of 
production  make  more  wastes  than  others  that  study  economy  of 
material  rather  than  increase  of  output.  That  is,  there  may  be 
more  profit  in  saving  labor  cost  than  in  saving  material.  In  the 
third  place,  yarns  or  cloths  of  the  same  designation  and  descrip- 
tion may  differ  widely  in  finish  and  excellence;  and,  as  a  rule,  the 
higher  the  finish  the  severer  have  been  the  processes  and  the  greater 
the  loss  of  fiber.    For  example,  to  make  100  pounds  of  clom  of  a 


622 


BEPOET  OF  TABIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


EEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  fiOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


certain  name  and  description  one  manufacturer  might  use  110  pounds 
of  yarn,  while  another  would  require  120  pounds.  The  cloth  of  the 
first  maker  would  lack  the  perfection  of  finisli  shown  by  that  of  the 
second;  and  the  higher  pnce  of  the  better  cloth  should  normally 
compensate  for  the  greater  quantity  of  material  consumed. 

Tops  are  the  first  intermediary  product  between  scoured  wool  and 
worsted  cloth.  The  weight  of  a  lot  of  tops  varies  normally  between 
80  per  cent  and  90  per  cent  of  the  weigtt  of  scoured  wool  used  to 
make  it.  An  output  in  tops  of  less  than  80  per  cent  means  that 
either  the  materials  used  or  the  methods  applied  are  unusual;  wldle 
an  output  of  more  than  90  per  cent  indicates  rare  skill  and  efficiency 
in  the  mill,  together  with  a  fortunate  selection  of  wool.  By  far  the 
greater  part  of  the  loss  in  weight  is  recovered  in  the  form  of  noils,  a 
much  smaller  part  takes  the  form  of  card  waste  and  comb  waste; 
but  the  exact  proportion  of  the  noils  to  the  other  wastes  varies  some- 
what with  the  character  of  the  wool  and  the  method  of  combing. 

In  the  following  table  the  figures  in  the  first  column  are  those  of  a 
typical  spinning  mill  that  turns  out  mainly  the  lower  counts  of  vam; 
those  of  the  second  column  are  for  a  mill  making  the  higher  counts; 
and  those  of  the  tliird  column  are  for  a  well-equipped  worsted  cloth 
mill  that  makes  its  own  yam. 

Top  and  noil  production  from  greasy  wool  in  three  typical  mills. 


Scoured  wool pounds.. 

Tops do...- 

Noils do 

Card  and  oomb  wasta '     do 

nX/.::::;:;::;:;::;;;..;.;.;:;:::;;..;;;.;;.:;::-^^^^^^ 

Card  and  comb  waste do 


MiUNo.  1. 


6,860,629 

6,759,701 

1,001,350 

99,279 

83.95 

14.60 

1.45 


MIUNo.2.  MaiNo.3. 


5,529,144 

4,851,690 

612, 776 

64,678 

87.75 

11.08 

1.17 


2,462,0C9 

2,123,123 

181,374 

157,572 

86.24 

7.36 

6.40 


It  is  apparent  from  this  table  that  the  average  yield  of  tops  over  a 
considerable  period  ditfei*s  in  typical  American  mills  by  less  than  5 
per  cent,  and  that  the  amount  of  this  average  yield  is  approximately 
85  per  cent.  But  a  compensatory  duty  based  on  the  average  yield 
would  be  inadequate  in  the  case  of  tops  made  from  wool  of  fine 
quaUty;  while,  conversely,  a  compensatory  duty  high  enough  to 
take  care  of  fine  wool  would  be  somewhat  more  than  compensatory 
for  tops  made  from  the  lower  grades.  This  may  be  shown  by  the 
following  comparison  of  the  average  yield  of  mill  No.  1  above  with 
the  yield  secured  from  different  quahties  of  wool  in  the  same  mill. 


Scoured  wool pounds. . 

Tops *^do 

Noils do.... 

Card  and  comb  waste . .      do 

Tom per  cent. . 

Noils do. . . . 

Card  and  comb  waste do 


Average 

yield 

of  mill. 


6,860,629 

6, 769, 701 

1,001,350 

09.279 

83.95 

14.60 

1.45 


Yield 
from 
wool 
counts, 
64s- 70s. 
Brad- 
ford 
system. 


440,506 

350,891 

82,022 

7.593 

79.66 

18.62 

1.72 


Yield 
from 
wool 
count, 
60s. 
Brad- 
ford 
system. 


736,268 

694,605 

132,021 

9,642 

80.76 

17.94 

1.30 


Yield 
from 
wool 

count, 
56s. 

Brad- 
ford 
system. 


Yield 
from 
wool 
count, 
60s. 
Brad- 
ford 
system. 


654,051 

659,697 

84,788 

9,566 

85.57 

12.97 

1.46 


749,608 

664,719 

79,844 

6,046 

88.68 

10.66 

.67 


fi 


*4 


\ 


\\ 


623 


Whatever  may  be  the  yield  of  scoured  wool  in  tops,  that  part  of  it 
that  is  unfit  for  tops  is  by  no  means  a  complete  loss  to  the  manufac- 
turer. Noils  are  worth  quite  regularly  60  per  cent  of  the  value  of  the 
scoured  wool  from  which  they  are  made,  and  they  form  from  60  per 
cent  to  90  per  cent  of  the  wastes  that  accrue  in  top  making.  Comb 
waste  is  worth  practically  as  much  as  scoured  wool;  card  waste,  as  a 
rule,  much  less;  the  two  together,  forming  from  5  per  cent  to  30  per 
cent  of  the  total  waste,  should  normally  bring  40  per  cent  of  the  price 
of  an  equal  weight  of  scoured  wool.  In  any  case  the  manufacturer 
recovers  in  the  value  of  his  wastes  fully  half  the  value  of  the  scoured 
wool  consumed  that  does  not  appear  in  his  tops. 

Assuming  then  that  100  pounds  of  fine  wool  gives  80  pounds  of  tops, 
the  loss  of  20  pounds  reappears  in  the  form  of  waste  worth  at  least  as 
much  as  10  pounds  of  wool.  The  manufacturer  therefore  in  this  case 
is  entitled  to  a  compensatory  duty  on  tops  that  exceeds  the  duty  on 
wool  by  no  more  than  10  per  cent  of  such  duty.  This  is  of  course  on 
the  assumption  that  the  compensatory  duty  shall  be  fixed  entirely  on 
a  weight  basis. 

In  the  manufacture  of  worsted  yam,  the  next  process  after 
combing  occurs  in  the  drawing  room,  where,  after  gilling  and  drawing, 
the  top  reappears  as  roving.  The  weight  of  the  roving  varies  between 
95  per  cent  and  98  per  cent  of  the  weight  of  the  tops.  The  loss  in 
weight  is  almost  but  not  quite  accounted  for  in  the  weight  of  the 
slubbmg  and  roving  wastes,  and  these  soft  wastes,  if  still  undyed,  are 
worth  approximately  as  much  as  tops  and  more  than  an  equal  weight 
of  the  scoured  wool  from  which  they  are  made.  A  fair  compensatory 
duty  on  rovmg  would  therefore  be  almost  imperceptibly  higher  than 
on  tops. 

In  the  transition  from  roving  to  finished  yarn  the  material  goes 
through  the  processes  of  spinning,  twisting,  winding,  and  spoofing, 
and  in  each  of  these  losses  of  fiber  are  involved.  Small  particles  are 
rubbed  away  by  friction,  bits  of  fiber  and  of  yam  are  broken  off  by 
the  strain  of  drawing  and  twisting,  and  a  part  of  the  loss  consists  of 
an  intangible  waste  due  to  loss  of  moisture  that  is  never  recovered  in 
any  form.  Such  invisible  waste  is  seldom  less  than  2  per  cent  of  the 
weight  of  the  tops.  An  additional  waste  of  about  2  J  per  cent  is 
recovered.  It  consists  of  the  fluffy  particles  adhering  to  spindles  and 
other  machinery,  of  small  broken  ends  of  hard  thread,  and  similar 
materials.  These  wastes  are  worth  less  than  half  as  much  as  an  equal 
weight  of  scoured  wool. 

If,  then,  we  assume  that,  estimated  on  the  weight  of  tops,  soft 
wastes  made  m  drawing  and  spinning  equal  4  per  cent,  hard  wastes 
in  twistmg,  etc.,  equal  2i  per  cent,  and  invisible  wastes  and  shrinkage 
m  aU  processes  equal  2 J  per  cent,  the  yield  of  yam  from  tops  will  equal 
91  per  cent.  ^  ^ 

These  figures  are  borne  out  by  the  actual  results  shown  in  mill  records. 
One  successful  American  miU  for  the  year  1910,  using  mainly  fine 
Australian  wool  of  quahties  60s.  to  70s.,  made  from  1,543,852  pounds 
of  tops  1,440,128  pounds  of  yarn  of  average  count  42s.  This  gives 
a  yield  of  yarn  from  tops  of  93.28  per  cent.  This  miU  estimates 
Its  average  yield  of  yarn  from  tops  year  by  year  at  approximately  92 
per  cent.  Another  successful  mill,  having  a  yam  output  in  1910  of 
2,696^88  pounds  of  average  counts  20s.,  found  its  average  yield  of 
yarn  from  tops  to  be  90  per  cent.    Agents  of  the  Tariff  Board  secured 


624 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDITLE  K. 


from  the  books  of  different  mills  50  estimates  of  the  yield  of  2-ply 
yam  from  tops.  The  highest  jdeld  thus  shown  was  97.1  per  cent, 
which  was  very  abnormal;  the  lowest  was  86.58  per  cent,  which  was 
likewise  abnormal.  Thirty-seven  of  the  estimates  showed  a  yield 
between  88  per  cent  and  93  per  cent,  10  showed  a  yield  slightly  in 
excess  of  93  per  cent,  and  3  showed  a  yield  slightly  under  88  per  cent. 

It  appears,  then,  that  the  average  yield  of  100  pounds  of  tops  is  at 
least  91  pounds  or  yam;  4  pounds  of  soft  wastes  and  2|  pounds  of 
hard  wastes  are  made,  and  2^  pounds  disappear  as  invisible  waste  or 
slirinkage.  But  since  his  soft  wastes  are  worth  90  per  cent  as  much 
as  tops  and  his  hard  wastes  40  per  cent  as  much  as  tops,  the  manu- 
facturer recovers  in  their  value  half  of  the  difference  of  9  pounds  be- 
tween tops  and  yam.  It  follows  that  in  such  a  case  a  compensatory 
dutyon  yarn  higher  than  that  on  tops  by  4J  per  cent  of  the  compen- 
satory top  duty  would  be  adequate.  It  should  be  noted,  however, 
that  such  a  rate  would  not  be  quite  compensatory  in  the  case  of  a 
lower  yield,  while  it  would  be  slightly  more  than  compensatory  when 
there  is  a  greater  yield.  It  should  be  further  noted  that  the  value  of 
the  wastes  is  reduced  by  nearly  a  half  in  the  case  of  yam  made  from 
dyed  tops.  Thus  in  the  case  of  a  yield  of  88  per  cent  of  colored  yam 
from  dyed  tops  a  compensatory  duty  on  yam  higher  than  that  on  tops 
by  8  per  cent  of  such  duty  would  not  be  more  than  adequate. 

The  compensatory  duty  rcMquired  on  woolen  yam  is  less  than 
that  on  worsted  yam.  The  intermediate  product  known  as  tops 
does  not  arise  in  the  manufacture  of  woolen  yam;  the  wool  passes 
direct  from  the  cards  to  the  spinning  room.  There  are  losses  of  fiber 
in  the  form  of  flyings,  sweepings,  strippings,  and  bur  waste,  and 
the  small  amount  of  waste  made  in  spinning. 

In  the  transition  from  yam  to  cloth  there  is  a  wider  range  of  losses 
in  weight  of  material  than  in  any  other  stage  of  manufacture.  These 
losses  may  be  grouped  as  foUows: 

1.  Waste  made  m  preparatory  processes.  In  spooling,  winding, 
twisting,  and  warping  the  yam,  preparatory  to  weaving,  Siort  pieces 
are  broken  off,  whicn  may  be  subsequently  reduced  to  gametted 
waste. 

2.  Weaving-room  wastes.  These  consist  of  the  first  and  last  ends 
of  the  warp  and  of  the  weft  yam  left  on  the  bobbins  after  the  piece 
is  finished.  The  proportion  of  these  to  the  whole  weight  varies,  of 
course,  with  the  length  of  the  piece.  Another  weaving-room  waste 
consists  of  cloth  headings,  bands  a  few  inches  wide  and  the  full  width 
of  the  warp,  which  are  cut  from  both  ends  of  each  piece  when  more 
than  one  piece  is  woven  on  the  same  warp. 

3.  Finishing  wastes.  These  consist  of  the  very  short  particles  that 
come  off  in  the  washing,  fulling,  napping,  and  shearing  processes. 
They  account  for  the  greater  part  of  tne  loss  in  weight  of  material  in 
many  fabrics  and  are  the  least  valuable  of  the  wastes. 

4.  Yam  remnants.  These  are  the  excess  quantities  of  yams  over 
the  exact  amounts  required  to  make  a  certain  quantity  of  cloth. 
No  manufacturer  can  tell  precisely  how  much  yam  will  be  needed  to 
fill  an  order  for  a  certain  kind  of  cloth.  If  his  estimate  falls  short  of 
the  amount  required,  he  has  to  procure  a  second  supply,  and  there  is 
a  strong  probability  that  the  character  of  this  addition  will  differ 
sufficiently  from  bis  first  supply  to  show  in  the  cloth.  It  is  necessary, 
therefore,  for  him  to  have  on  hand  rather  more  than  he  thinks  will 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


625 


li4 


be  needed  to  fill  his  order,  which  results  in  an  excess.  In  staple 
piece-dyed  goods  this  is  an  unimportant  consideration,  as  nearly  all 
such  excess  is  usable  at  its  first  value;  but  in  fancy  goods  made  of 
many  colors  the  loss  from  this  cause  is  a  considerable  item. 

The  amount  of  all  these  wastes  and  their  recoverable  value  differ 
greatly  for  different  kinds  of  fabrics.  Staple  worsted  goods  woven 
from  undyed  yams  produce  the  least  waste,  fancy  yarn-dyed  worsteds 
produce  more,  and  certain  highly  finished  woolen  fabrics  show  the 
greatest  loss  in  weight.  Some  varieties  of  worsteds  weigh  within  6 
per  cent  of  the  weight  of  the  yarn  that  went  into  them,  while  some 
highly  finished  broadcloths,  velours,  and  overcoatings  fall  short  of 
the  weight  of  the  yarn  by  more  than  25  per  cent.  The  average  loss 
would  probably  lie  between  12  and  15  per  cent. 

Agents  of  the  Tariff  Board  secured  estimates  based  on  mill  records 
of  the  cloth  made  from  1,000  pounds  of  yam  in  the  case  of  55  worsted 
and  40  woolen  fabrics.     The  result  may  be  tabulated  as  follows: 


Yield  of  cloth  from  yarn. 


95  per  cent  and  over 

90  per  cent  to  95  per  cent. . , 
85  per  cent  to  90  per  cent. . . 
80  per  cent  to  85  per  cent. . . 
75  per  cent  to  80  per  cent. . . 
Under  75  per  cent 


Worsted 
fabrics. 


6 
18 
26 

4 


Woolen 
fabrics. 


12 
7 
6 

6 


55 


The  total  recoverable  value  of  the  wastes  in  a  weaving  mill  is  difli- 
cult  to  estimate,  for  the  reason  that  the  wastes  differ  in  value  and  the 
proportion  of  the  amount  of  each  to  that  of  all  the  others  varies  with 
the  different  fabrics.  The  wastes  enumerated  above  under  groups 
1  and  2  are  worth  approximately  20  per  cent  of  the  value  of  the  yarn 
from  which  they  are  made.  Yarn  remnants  are  sold  or  utihzed  at 
from  10  per  cent  to  100  per  cent  of  their  cost.  The  finishing  waste 
IS  nearly  worthless;  some  of  it  is  salable  at  2  per  cent  or  3  per  cent 
of  the  value  of  the  yam,  much  has  to  be  carted  away  as  dirt.  Taken 
altogether  it  appears  that  the  recoverable  value  of  weaving-mill  wastes 
would  not  be  more  than  15  per  cent  nor  less  than  5  per  cent,  with  a 
probable  average  of  10  per  cent,  of  the  value  of  the  yam  from  which 
they  were  made. 

If,  then,  it  is  desired  to  compensate  the  manufacturer  of  the  heaviest 
slirinlang  woolen  fabrics  mentioned  above,  the  compensatorv  dutv 
must  be  as  much  as  20  per  cent  of  the  compensatory  duty  on  varn 
higher  than  that  duty.  On  the  other  hand,  there  are  certain  fabrics 
for  which  a  fair  compensatory  duty  would  exceed  the  compensatorv 
yam  duty  by  less  than  5  per  cent.  ^ 

If  it  is  assumed  that  the  purpose  of  compensatory  duties  is  to  make 
good  the  waste  of  fiber  that  arises  in  turning  out  products  involving 
the  greatest  loss,  the  foUowing  examples  woiSd  illustrate  the  workini 
of  the  prmciples  set  forth  above: 

If  the  duty  on  the  scoured  content  of  wool  is  $0.15  a  pound— 

'^^  i^P^^^^'*'*y  ^^^y  "^"^  *^P«  ®<1^^  ^-15  Pl^s  10  per  cent  of  $0.15  equals 

'^^  compensatory  duty  on  yarn  equals  $0.1650  plus  8  per  cent  of  $0.1650  equals 
♦0.1782. 

^^  compenaatory  duty  on  cloth  equals  $0.1782  plus  20  per  cent  of  $0.1782  equals 


626 


BEPOET  OP  TARIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


Ill 


If  the  duty  on  the  ecoured  content  of  wool  is  10.18  a  pound — 

The  compensatory  duty  on  tops  equals  $0.18  plus  10  per  cent  of  10.18  equals 

$0.1980. 
The  compensatory  duty  on  yam  equals  $0  J980  plus  8  per  cent  of  $0.1980  equals 

$0.2loo. 

The  compensatory  duty  on  cloth  equals  $0.2138  plus  20  per  cent  of  $0.2138  equals 

$0.2566. 
If  the  duty  on  the  scoured  content  of  wool  is  $0.19  a  pound — 

The  compensatory  duty  on  tops  equals  $0.19  plus  10  per  cent  of  $0.19  equals 

$0.2090.  ^ 

The  compenflatory  duty  on  yam  equals  $0.2090  plus  8  per  cent  of  $0.2090  equals 

$0.2257. 
The  compensatory  duty  on  cloth  equals  $0.2257  plus  20  per  cent  of  $0.2257  equals 

$0.2708. 
If  the  duty  on  the  scoured  content  of  wool  is  $0.20  a  pound — 

The  compensatory  duty  on  tops  equals  $0.20  plus  10  per  cent  of  $0.20  equals 

$0.22.  ^ 

The  compensatory  duty  on  yam  equals  $0.22  plus  8  per  cent  of  $0.22  equals 
$0.2376. 

The  compensatory  duty  on  cloth  equals  $0.2376  plus  20  per  cent  of  $0.2376  equals 

$0.2851. 
If  the  duty  on  the  scoured  content  of  wool  is  $0.25  a  pound — 

The  compensatory  duty  on  tops  equals  $0.25  plus  10  per  cent  of  $0.25  equals 

$0.2750.  ^ 

The  compensatory  duty  on  yam  equals  $0.2750  plus  8  per  cent  of  $0.2750  equals 

$0.2970.  ^ 

The  compensatory  duty  on  cloth  equals  $0.2970  plus  20  per  cent  of  $0.2970  equals 

vO««j5o4. 

What  has  been  said  above  apphes  to  fabrics  made  wholly  of  wool. 
Much  cloth,  however,  is  designated  as  woolen  or  worsted  that  contains 
other  paaterials  than  wool.  To  fix  a  fair  compensatory  duty  on  such 
cloth  is  a  matter  of  difficulty,  by  reason  of  the  varymg  proportions 
of  the  elements  that  compose  it  and  the  impossibility  of  ascertaining 
that  proportion.  Goods  made  with  a  cotton  warp  and  wool  weft 
mav  be  easily  recognized  and  rated ;  but  it  frequently  happens  that 
both  warp  and  weft  contain  more  or  less  of  cheaper  materials.  There 
are,  of  course,  well  known  and  simple  tests  for  discovering  the  cot- 
ton content  of  a  fabric,  but  their  appfication  to  imported  cloths  im 
the  custom  house  would  involve  considerable  difficulties.  Moreover, 
there  is  no  test  known  that  will  disclose  the  proportion  of  noils, 
shoddy,  mungo,  etc.,  to  new  wool  in  many  varieties  of  fabrics.  Diffi- 
culties of  this  kind,  however,  could  be  partly  overcome  by  graduating 
the  compensatory  duty  according  to  the  value  of  the  fabric. 

METHOD  OF  INQUIBY  INTO  OOfiT  OF  MANUFACTUBE. 

The  problem  which  confronted  the  Tariff  Board  at  the  outset  of 
the  inquiry  into  the  cost  of  manufacturing  in  the  woolen  and  worsted 
mdustrv  was  how  to  find  some  method  of  arriving  at  the  cost  of  any 
particular  article,  in  view  of  the  fact  that  each  mill  turns  out  such  a 
great  variety  of  products.  The  difficulty  can  perhaps  be  best  under- 
stood by  comparing  this  inquiry  with  that  on  the  pulp  and  paper 
mdustry  regarding  which  the  board  made  a  report  m  May  of  this 
year. 

In  the  case  of  news  print  paper  there  is  a  standard  product  pro- 
duced in  a  practically  uniform  quality  by  all  mills  and,  to  a  very 
large  extent,  constituting  the  sole  product  of  the  mill.  The  problem 
then  reduced  itself  to  getting  the  actual  cost  expenditures  for  a  given 
period  and  the  actual  total  output  of  the  mill  in  tons.     Whatever 


BEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD   ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


627 


w 


I 


analysis  might  be  made  of  the  expenditures  by  processes  or  accord- 
ing to  the  different  elements  of  cost,  the  total  cost  per  ton  could 
always  be  secured  by  dividing  the  total  cost  by  total  product.  K 
a  worsted  mill,  for  example,  always  made  simply  one  kmd  of  cloth 
of  exactly  the  same  construction,  pattern,  and  finish,  the  cost  of  that 
particular  cloth  could  be  secured  at  that  mill  in  the  same  way. 

It  is,  however,  impossible  to  say  anything  about  the  cost  of  cloth 
per  yard  without  specifically  and  carefully  defining  the  exact  nature 
of  the  cloth.  There  are  no  absolute  standards  in  the  cloth  trade, 
and  each  mill  turns  out  a  great  variety  of  different  fabrics;  and  to 
divide  the  total  cost  of  the  year  by  the  total  number  of  yards  would 
of  course  give  no  result  of  any  value.  It  would  not  be  the  cost  of 
any  particular  cloth  but  the  average  cost  of  the  great  variety  of  cloths, 
and  this  would  be  utterly  incomparable  with  any  other  mill  unless 
it  made  exactly  the  same  varieties  in  exactly  the  same  proportions, 
which,  of  course,  never  occurs. 

The  question  then  arose  whether  or  not  it  would  be  possible  to 
get  results  by  a  study  of  processes,  so  that  some  defini.te  expression 
might  be  made  as  to  the  cost  of  each  process  in  manufacturing,  from 
the  wool  to  the  finished  cloth.  In  preliminary  lines  of  manufacture  this 
was  found  to  be  possible  in  a  certain  measure.  For  example,  in  the 
case  of  the  manufacture  of  tops  it  was  possible  to  get  actual  figures 
per  pound  of  tops  on  the  defimte  processes  of  sorting,  scouring,  card- 
ing, and  combing.  The  trouble,  nowever,  is  that  tops  vary  greatly 
in  quality  and  that  costs  vary  according  to  the  quality.  In  no  estab- 
lishment is  a  single  quality  of  tops  produced.  The  result  is  that  a 
statement  of  costs  based  on  total  output  might  be  misleading,  since 
it  would  not  represent  any  actual  grade  produced.  The  quality  of 
the  tops  depends  upon  the  quality  of  the  wool  of  which  it  is  made. 
The  speed  of  the  machinery  has  to  be  adjusted  to  the  quality  of  the 
wool  fiber  and  the  variations  in  combing  costs  per  pound  depend 
largely  upon  the  speed  of  the  comb  and  the  consequent  output. 

Experience  has  shown,  roughly  at  least,  the  relative  output  for 
different  grades  of  wool  and  the  manufacturer  can  determine  m  some 
degree  what  proportion  of  his  cost  is  properly  to  be  apportioned  to 
each  grade  of  tops  produced. 

The  same  is  also  true  of  worsted  yarns.     It  is  true  that  no  mill 

Produces  a  single  kind  of  yarn,  and  consequently  an  average  cost 
ased  upon  total  output  in  pounds  and  total  expenses  would  be  of 
less  value  than  an  exact  cost  for  yarn  of  a  single  count.  The  spin- 
ner, however,  like  the  comber,  has  learned  from  experience  a  fairly 
accurate  method  of  prorating  his  expenses  to  the  diSerent  grades  of 
yarn  spun. 

Some  of  the  difficulties  in  determining  the  cost  of  yam  produced 
will  be  explamed  more  fully  below,  where  that  subject  is  discussed. 
It  may  be  merely  said  here  that  the  two  main  causes  of  variation  in, 
say,  two-ply  worsted  yarn  are,  first,  the  quahty  of  the  wool  or  tops 
from  which  it  is  made;  secondly,  the  size  or  count  of  the  yam.  The 
finer  the  yarn  is  spun— that  is,  the  higher  the  count— the  greater  the 
cost.  The  reason,  of  course,  is  that  the  production,  in  pounds,  in  a 
given  time  diminishes  as  the  size  of  the  yam  diminishes.  Here, 
again,  the  manufacturer  has  been  able  to  learn  from  experience  in 
what  proportion  the  production  falls  off  and  the  labor  cost  increases 
with  this  variation  m  size,  and  he  can  consequently  prorate  his 


628 


EBPOET  OP  TAEIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


\ 


L,aocra4«^ 


labor  and  other  charges  with  some  degree  of  accuracy,  according  to 
the  variation  in  counts.  ^ '  «u.t^iumg  lo 

It  IS  therefore  possible  to  take  the  actual  cost  of  a  product  for  a 
given  penod  according  to  the  particular  quality  of  yamf  and  therebv 
amve  at  a  conclusion  regarding  the  cost  of  a  specific  product  in  each 
separate  process  of  drawing,  spinning,  twisting,  spoolmff.  reelincr  etc 
Consequently  this  method  was  adopted,  where  possibleTand  comlJined 
witu  other  methods,  as  explained  more  fully  in  the  section  on  yarns 
Records  were  secured  by  members  of  the  boara  or  by  its  agents' 
taken  actual  y  from  the  books,  on  worsted-yam  spinnrng  for  certain 
companies,  showing  range  of  counts  produced,  total  actual  expendi- 
tures by  processes,  general-expense  schedules,  etc. 

In  the  case  of  woolen  and  worsted  cloths  it  became  clear  that  no 
such  method  was  possible.  There  are  not  standard  grades  of  cloth 
as  there  are  of  yam,  and  to  compare  the  total  cost  with  total  output 
of  a  imU  would  be  utterly  meaningless.  Certain  results  were  secured 
as  to  the  weavmg  cost  by  takmg  the  total  weaver's  wages  for  a  given 
period  and  comparmg  them  with  the  total  number  of  mcks  woven  in 
the  total  output  for  the  same  period.  This  gave  a  weaving  cost  per 
pick  but  dirf not  cover  the  essential  facts  alto  the  cost^any  par- 
ocular  fabric.  Obviously  any  general  average  as  to  mending  and 
burling,  wet  or  dry  fimshmg,  dyeing,  etc,  would  have  meant  nothing 
at  all,  as  the  cost  of  these  processes  depends  entirely  upon  the  char- 
acter of  the  specific  cloth  manufactured.  ^ 

The  only  method  available  was  to  start  with  certam  specific  cloths 
and  get  the  most  accurate  estimates  possible  from  a  number  of 
different  mills  on  the  cost  of  making  goods  of  this  quality.  The 
difficulty  here  lay  m  the  weU-known  fact  that  estimated  on  the  same 
sample  by  different  manufacturers  may  vary  very  widely,  and  expe- 
rience m  th^  regard  by  associations  in  the  trade  who  have  attempted 
to  amve  at  some  standard  cost  method  showed  the  necessity  for 

^d^f ah?arp^^^^^  ^  "^""^^  ^^""^  ^^"^  ^  ^^^^^<  ^^^^^' 

In  the  first  place,  the  question  of  raw  material  waa  eliminated 
aUogether,  smce  th^  is  such  a  fluctuating  element,  and  an  arbitrary 
pnce  waa  assumed  for  different  quahtiea  of  wool  and  yam.  this  arbi- 
trary price  bemg  the  actual  price  so  far  as  it  could  be  accurately  deter- 
mined for  a  given  date.  Schedules  were  then  carefuUy  prepared  pro- 
viding for  a  detailed  analysis  of  the  cost  of  a  given  fabric  according  to 
each  separate  process  of  yarn  dyemg,  warp  sizing,  spoofing,  windfng 
doubhng  and  twistmg,  dressing,  weaving,  Surfing,  mending,  remend- 
ing,  speckmg,  etc.,  wet  finishmg,  niece  dyeingT  dry  finifhing,  and 

^I^^^Wk  J"^^"!  ?^^'  P^r?  *^®  expenses  were  divided  into 
direct  labor  and  '*indu-ect  labor"  and  "  department  materials." 
lo  these  was  added  a  ' 'general  expense"  schedule  covering  aU  over- 
head  and  fixed  charges  for  a  period  of  12  months.  The  total  wages 
were  also  entered  for  the  same  period  and  the  mle  established  that 
general  exnenae  ^ould  be  prorated  according  to  the  amount  ot  pro- 
ductive labor.  This  method,  although  not  uniformly  adopted  in 
the  trade,  is  recogmzed  as  fan-  and  equitable,  and  it  was  nece^ar>r  to 
have  a  common  basis  for  the  distribution  of  the  general  expense  so 
that  the  returns  from  the  mills  should  be  comparable  in  this  regard. 


\ 


\ 


Ueiit    Ha  Ik 
EEPOBT  OP  TAEIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  Ollumbta   l©flt©rsltTr 

Our  agents  then  visited  the  mills  with  specific  samples  and  worked' 
out  with  the  proper  officials  the  cost  under  each  separate  process. 
In  practically  all  cases  they  were  given  complete  access  to  the  hooka 
in  order  to  see  by  what  method  particular  charges  were  made,  and  to 
satisfy  themselves  that  the  estimated  costs  entered  were  based  upon 
the  actual  costs  at  the  mill.  By  this  detailed  analysis  by  processes 
the  estimates  came  as  near  to  the  actual  costs  as  the  mifl  itself  was 
able  to  make  them. 

It  should  be  home  in  mind  that  the  method  here  adopted  is  the 
method  of  the  manufacturer  himself  when  he  wishes  to  find  the  cost 
of  any  fabric.  That  is,  he  submits  it  to  his  designei:,  who  figures  out 
what  it  will  cost  to  make  it  in  his  mill,  and  on  these  figures  he  takes 
orders.  On  this  basis  he  sends  out  samples  of  designs  or  fabrics  to 
soHcit  business  at  a  price  fixed  by  costs  ascertained  in  precisely  this 
way. 

In  aU  cases  we  secured  the  cost  of  production  at  the  mill  actually 
producing  the  sample  as  shown  by  its  own  records  on  that  particular 
cut  of  cloth. 

These  schedules  when  brought  to  the  office  were  very  carefully 
scmtinized  in  each  detail  and  wherever  discrepancies  appeared,  or 
charges  which  seemed  inaccurate,  the  matter  was  taken  up  by  cor- 
respondence, and  if  an  understanding  was  not  reached  in  this  way 
the  agent  was  sent  back  to  the  mill  to  go  over  the  matter  again.  In 
the  cases  where  the  data  were  insufficient  to  meet  the  requirements  of 
the  investigation,  or  were  obviously  abnormal  in  character,  these  were 
disregarded  entu-ely  by  the  board  in  making  the  final  computations. 

ihe  general-expense"  schedules  were  carefully  edited^ to  bring 
them  to  a  common  basis  and  to  efiminate  all  items  not  properly 
chargeable  to  costs.  In  all  cases  the  item  of  '^interest  on  capital^' 
was  ehmmated  as  not  being  properly  so  chargeable. 

The  item  of  depreciation  was  naturally  a  very  variable  one.  and 
an  allowance  was  made  of  2  J  per  cent  on  buildings  and  7  per  cent  on 
equipment,  mcludmg  obsoletion.  The  question  of  a  fair  valuation  of 
the  miU  could,  m  many  cases,  not  be  determined  accurately,  and 
in  such  cases  it  was  necessary  to  assume  a  certain  standard  valua- 
tion based  on  the  number  of  cards,  looms,  etc.  As  a  matter  of  fact, 
the  allowance  for  depreciation  made  by  the  board  was,  in  general 
shghtly  m  excess  of  that  actuafiy  charged;  but  the  practices  ol 
the  mills  regardmg  depreciation  are,  at  the  best,  as  crude  as  they 
are  varied.  In  any  case,  such  discrepancies  as  would  appear  ik 
clSr""    ""^^  ^"^        ""^^  inconsiderable  item  per  yard  of 

Returns  were  also  received  from  many  miUs  giving  the  total  out- 

Llff.  /?    ^^  ^"^^^^  number  of  picks  woven  during  the  year,  in 
If  f L  !  !;;T^'  '^  P^ -f  ^^^'  ^M ^7^^^^^  iabor  cost pir  wovin  pick. 
m«fL  wL?       time  similar  schedules  were  prepared^on  which  esti- 
mates were  secured  for  the  manufacture  of  yarn  in  a  given  sample 

Thpii^'w^'  "^"^  i  "^^^^"^  ^^^>^'  ^^^  *^«  manufacture  oflo^s  asTeU! 
These  were  made  out  accordmg  to  the  same  method  as  to  giving 

11k?  ^^P^f  ^^«^S'  a^d  the  general  expense  schedule  for  the  whofi 
vtn.  I  "^^""i-  ^n  "^^^  ^^^  prorating  overhead  charges  on  tops  and 
yarns  accordmg  to  productive   labor.     These   schedules,  however 
were  supplementary  to  the  actual  production  figures  XX  reTei^^ 
to,  and  are  explained  more  fully  in  the  section  Bn  yam^!^  ^ 


680 


BEPOBT  OF  TAMFF  BOABD  OW  SOHEDTJM:  K. 


THE  SECimiNO   OF  FOBEION  COSTS. 


The  method  adopted  in  securing  foreign  costs  on  American  samples 
was  similar  to  that  used  in  this  country.  Samples  of  identical  fab- 
rics cut  from  the  same  piece  were  taken  to  England  and  to  the  Con- 
tinent. These  were  shown  to  a  number  of  manufacturers  and  their 
estimates  on  the  cost  of  production  secured,  but  not  in  the  same 
detail  as  in  American  mills,  because  foreign  manufacturers  do  not 
keep  their  costs  in  any  such  detail. 

In  England  the  costings  on  these  samples  are  given  with  the 
authority  of  a  cloth  expert,  himself  a  manufacturer,  who  took  the 
Enghsh  estimates  secured  and  corrected  or  verified  them  from  his  own 
experience  or  from  the  costs  in  his  own  mill.  They  are  beheved  to  bo 
bedrock  figures,  and  were  calculated  on  the  basis  of  mills  of  hierh 
efiiciency,  using,  whenever  the  construction  of  a  fabric  permitted, 
hi^-speed  looms. 

The  Enghsh  costs  correspond  closelv  with  French  costs  on  the 
same  samples  obtained  through  other  channels  entirely.  The  weav- 
ing rates  on  samples  were  obtained  in  France  through  still  other 
channels  than  were  the  cost-of-production  figures,  which  also  show 
weaving  rates  on  the  individual  sample.  These  were  checked  against 
each  otner  and  against  the  Enghsh  weaving  rates  on  the  high-speed 
looms,  with  results  most  reassuring  as  to  the  substantial  accuracy 
of  both. 

German  costs  were  secured  on  similar  cloths.  In  no  case  did  a 
German  manufacturer  figure  on  the  cost  x>f  producing  an  American 
fabric.  What  they  did  was  to  select  cloths  made  l)y  themselves 
which,  from  the  loom  analysis  submitted,  came  very  near  the  sample 
fabric,  and  their  costs  were  secured  in  such  detail  as  then-  methods  of 
bookkeeping  permitted. 

The  weavers'  rates  upon  each  of  the  American  sample  fabrics  were 
secured  in  the  cloth  centers  of  Germany,  France,  and  Belgium  from 
weavers  who  were  making  similar  cloths  at  the  loom,  or  from  the  rate 
commissioner  who  in  conference  arrange  between  employer  and 
employee  what  the  weaving  rate  on  cloths  shall  be.  The  actual 
weavers'  scales  were  secured  from  various  sources,  sometimes  from 
establishments'  scales,  sometimes  from  district  wage  agreements 
signed  by  representatives  of  organizations.  In  every  ca^e,  rates 
were  as  thoroughly  verified  as  possible  by  checking  up  one  source  of 
information  agSnst  another. 

In  the  case  of  German  goods,  sample  cloths  were  secured  from  the 
mill  making  them:  and  costs  were  taKen  from  their  books,  including 
the  weavers  rate  on  the  identical  bolt  from  which  the  sample  was 
cut.  The  loom  analyses  of  these  fabrics  were  secured,  and  the  samples 
brought  to  the  Umted  States  and  submitted  for  costings  to  Ameri- 
can nulls. 

The  difficulties  in  the  wav  of  securing  accurate  data  on  identical 
fabrics,  or  of  knowuig  whether  two  fabrics  are  sufficiently  similar  to 

Sermit  of  comparison,  has  already  been  mentioned.  Tins,  however, 
oes  not  apply  so  severelv  to  the  single  element  of  weaving  rate,  ana 
the  weaving  rate  is  the  i)est  and  safest  gauge  of  conversion  costs; 
hence  the  board  has  paid  especial  attention  to  this  element. 

Since  costs  vaiy  widely  from  mill  to  mill,  any  single  figure  as  to 
the  cost  of  a  fabric  must  be  taken  with  caution.  The  essential  thmg, 
however,  for  this  inquiry  is  the  ratio  of  foreign  to  home  cost*.    The 


I 


I 


% 


\ 


EEPOBT  OF  TAEIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


631 


very  large  amount  of  domestic  and  foreign  cost  data  received  from 
so  many  different  and  independent  sources  by  different  agents  check 
so  closely  with  each  other  that  the  board  feels  that  this  essential  point 
of  the  ratio  has  been  accurately  determined. 


THE    SCHEDULES   USED. 

Copies  of  the  schedules  used  are  herewith  submitted,  so  that  the 
true  nature  of  the  investigation  may  be  understood. 

(Confidential.    Identification  No J 

The  Tariff  Board, 
woolen  and  worsted  industry. 
Schedule  1. — Gerieral  information. 

1.  Name  and  address  of  firm  or  corporation 

2.  Name  and  location  of  mill V/^......V.V.V....V^. 

3.  Number  of  persons  employed  when  mill  is  running  fiiil 

4.  Equipment  of  mill: 

a.  Number  of  sets  of  cards 

6.  Number  of  combs ...-........'. 

c.  Number  of  spindles ...V  "..... .... V"  '. 

d.  Number  of  looms:  Broad ,  narrow. .......[.... 

5.  Have  you  made  cloth  of  same  construction? 

6.  Have  you  made  cloth  of  similar  construction? 


Remarks: 


Data  secured ,191 


Representative. 


The  undersigned  certifies  that  the  figures  and  data  given  on  the  accompanying  sheeia 
(marked  Schedules  1,  2,  3,  4  5  6,  7,  8,  9,  10,  and  11)  are  taken  from  thVhLkTS 
accounting  of  the  above-named  firm,  in  so  far  as  they  appear  thereon,  and  are  accurate 
and  correct  to  the  best  of  my  knowledge  and  belief.  «*^^uraM3 


(OflScial  position  with  the  company  or  firm.) 
Schedule  2. — Top  making. 
A.  COST  OF  STOCK  ENTERING  MANUFACTURE  OF  1,000  POUNDS  OF  TOPS. 


Raw  wool: 


Other  stock: 


Pounds. 


Price  per 
pound. 


Gross  total 

Less  credit  noilslq,^.  , 
Less  credit  waste/  °''^*- 


Net  totaL. 


Date. 


Total 
cost. 


Cost  per 
pound 
of  tops. 


32080°— H.  Doc.  342, 62-2,  vol  2 2 


632 


REPORT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON   SCHBDUU:  K, 

Schedule  2,— Top  malnngp— Continued. 
B.  CONVERSION  COST  OF  1,000  POUNDS  OF  TOPS. 


I 


Pounds 
of  mate- 
rial en- 
tering 
each 
process. 

Produc- 
tive or 
direct 
labor.* 

Nonpro- 
ductive 
or  indi- 
rect 
labor.' 

Depart- 
ment ma- 
terials.* 

Total 
cost. 



Cost  per 

I)onna  of 

tops. 

Sorting  and  blending 

Scouri  ng 

Carding 

Combing 

Dyeing 

Generai  expense  * 

1                                                            ; 

■*:::::::j::::::::"i""""-- 

!             ' 



'.:'.'.::'.'/.'. 

Total  conversion  cost 

; 1 1 1 

Cost  of  stock 

I 

Total  mannfacturing  cost 

'1 


1  Actual  labor  appUed  directly  to  stock  In  Ita  conversion.  Including  proportion  of  wages  paid  to  second 
'T^d??^t^yat;T„.X°S1n'd"eSSSe'2l^^Sl|g^^^^^^^       foremen,  carriers,  etc..  but  not  toCndlng 

•■^^lell-als-ofifeVtir  r^-Si^f  rd?.SS^r?«^  -urlng,  oU  for  olUng  sU.K  dy« 

and  chemicals  for  dyeing,  etc. 
*  See  general  expense  schedule. 


Eemarke: 


Schedule  ^. ^Worsted yam  spinning  {1,000  pounds).  No. 

A.  COST  OF  STOCK. 


Pounds  tops  required  for  manufacture  of  1,000  pounds  yam. ...... 

Price  of  tope  (if  purchased)  per  pound  at »  -l^ a^  ■ 

Coet  of  tops  per  pound  (if  made  at  epmnmg  mill) 


Total  C08t  of  tops. 


B.  CONVERSION  COST. 


Drawing 

Spinning 

Twisting 

Reeling 

Spooling 

Warping 

General  expense  ♦ 


Pounds 
of  mate- 
rial en- 
tering 
each 
process. 


Produc- 
tive or 
direct 
labor.* 


Nonpro* 
ductive 
or  Indi- 
rect 
labor.' 


Depart- 
ment ma- 
terials.' 


Total 
cost. 


Total  conversion  cost. 
Cost  of  stock 


Leas  credit  waste 

Net  manuf^turlng  cost. 


Cost  per 

pound  of 

yam. 


1  Actual  labor  appUed  directly  to  stock  In  It.  conversion,  Including  proportion  of  wages  paid  to  second 
•Titl^^^t^rerprrX^d^eMfS^^^^  — ers,  etc..  but  not  Including 

dyes,  and  chemicals  for  dyeing,  etc. 
« See  general  expense  schedule. 


BEPOET  OP  TABIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K, 
ScHEDULB  4. — Worsted  cloth  making  (1,000  yards). 

A.  GENERAL. 

Dat«  of  calculation Length  of  goods  finished 

Name  of  cloth Width  of  goods  finished 

Number  of  warp  ends  to  1  inch Net  total  take-up 

Number  of  picks  to  1  inch Pounds  of  cloth  to  1,000  poimda 

Width  in  reed of  yam 

Length  of  warp Weight  of  cloth  per  yard 

Length  of  cloth  woven Pounds  of  cloth  to  1,000.  yards . 

Length  of  take-up 

B.  COST  OF  STOCK. 


638 


Kind  of 
yurn. 

Plain, 
mixed, 

or 
colored. 

Count 
of  yam. 

Pounds. 

Cost  or 
price  of 

yarn 

per 
pound.* 

Total 
cost. 

Cost 

per 

yard 

cloth. 

Warp: 

ends.. 

ends.. 

ends.. 

ends.. 

Waste.. % 

Waste.. % 

ends.. 

Weft: 

picks.. 

picks.. 

picks.. 

picks. . 

........ 

picks. . 

Total  stock 

1 

L... 

1 

i?*ZfdS?wKn  nn'f.T.^^^^       °'  5^'  *'  ""^^^^^  ^^^  °^  ^^-    ^^  3^  Is  purchased,  give  price  of 

C.  CONVERSION  COST. 


yam  and  date  when  purchased. 


■ 

Produc- 
tive or 
direct 
labor.  * 

Nonpro- 
ductive 

or 
indirect 
labor.  * 

Depart- 
ment mar 
terials.* 

Total 
cost  for 

yards. 

Cost  per 
ysffd. 

Yarn  dyeing 

Warp  siting ] 

Spooling 

winding                                           

Doubling  and  twisting 

Dressing  ( including  drawing-in) .'.".' 

Weaving  (weaver's  rate  at per ) 

Burling f.         '       

Mend  ine 

Remendinp,  specking,  etc ..""'.'.!.".'" .' 

Wet  finishmg '[[ 

Piece  dyeing '.'.'..'.'.'.'.......'.. 

Dry  finishing  and  inspecting  (cosrofputtin«*up  and 

selling  expense  not  mcluded) 

General  expense  * "[ 





Total  conversion  cost 

Cost  of  stock 

Less  credit  waste 

Net  manufacturing  cost 

1 

1 

^^^fs\  iite«f dI?hXrPd"Sdt»er"iis^r''  '^'^^^'  ^'"- ""'  -'  '-"■''^ 

d;if^d"cfei'at°d|e1SB,  r."  "'  "'P"'™'":  '«  eiampl^^soap-  (or  scouring,  .a  for  .Uing  stock. 

*  See  general  expense  schedule. 


634 


EEPOET  OP  TABIFF  BOARD  ON  BCHBDUIiB  K. 


Schedule  5. — Woolen  yam  making  (1,000  pounds),  No. 

A.  COST  OF  STOCK. 


Pounds. 

Price  per 
pound. 

Bate. 

Total 
cost. 

Cost  per 

pound 

of  yam. 

Wool: 

Noils 

Shoddv               

Other  stock: 

1 

Total 

Less  credit  waste 

1 

Not  cost 

1 

i 

B.  COST  OF  CONVERSION. 


Pounds 
of  mate- 
rial enter- 
ing each 
process. 

Produc- 
tive or 
direct 
labor. » 

Nonpro- 
ductive 

or 
indirect 
labor.* 

Depart- 

mentma- 

terials.* 

Total 
cost. 

Cost  per 

pound  of 

yam. 

Sortinj; . .           

Scouring .*. 

Stock  dyeing 

Mixing  and  Dickine 



'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'. 

Carding        

Sninnine 

Doubling                          

TwisttUE        

Rnooliiie   

General  exnense  *  

Total  conversion  cost 

Cost  of  stock 

Total  manufacturinE  cost 

1  Actual  labor  applied  directly  to  stock  in  its  conversion,  including  proportion  of  wages  paid  to  second 
hands  and  subforenien  properly  chargeable  to  each  department. 

*  Indirect  labor  employed  in  department,  including  overseers,  foremen,  carriers,  etc.,  but  not  Including 
general  and  repair  labor,  which  are  provided  for  under  general  expense. 

»  Materials  other  than  stock  used  in  department;  for  example,  soap  for  scouring,  oil  for  oiling  stock, 
dyes  and  chemicals  for  dyeing,  etc. 

*  See  general  expense  schedule. 

jtvdimr.Ks  .•.•.••••.»••••.••.••»•■•••••••••••••••••••••••-••••-•-•••••-•••-•"••• 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 
Schedule  6. —Woolen  cloth  making  (1,000  yards). 

A.  GENERAL. 

w^^?I^S!"!!T: unfS^fSi'^r?--;,-^- 

Number  of  warp -ends -to  i     SX&S!:: 

men..        .   Net  total  take-up 

™Tnt?f  ^  *^  '  ^^^' Poiind^fcIoth^i;6i)b*poundB 

lln^Sof^nS weipL  of  cloth  pervard::::*" 

Length  of  cloth  woven Pounds  of  cloth  to  i:000  yards! 

B.  COST  OF  STOCK. 


635 


Kind  of 
yam. 


Werp: 


..ends., 
-ends., 
.ends., 
.ends. . 


Plain, 
mixed, 
or  col- 
ored. 


No. 

yam. 


.ends. 


Weft: 


-picks., 
.picks., 
.picks., 
-picks.. 

-picks.. 


Waste.". % 


Poimds. 


Cost  or 
price  ol 

yam 

per 
pound. 1 


Waste-. % 


Total  stock. 


Total 
cost. 


Cost 

per 

yard 

cloth. 


»  Give  actual  cost  of  manufacture  of  yam  if  maWnir 
u-n  and  date  wh«n  mimho^.-*  *  •''""'  "  "*a*™g 


yarn  and  date  when  purchased. 


your  own  yam.    If  yam  is  purchased,  give  price  of 
C.  CONVERSION  COST. 


Yarn  dyeing... 

pouhling and  twisting.!' 

Spooling '^ 

Winding 

Dressing  (including  drawing  "iiiY 

Warp  sizing '' 

Weaving  (weaver's  rate  at -^^"  iieVim^ 

■Burlmg ^  ' 

Mending 

Remendine,  speaking; 'et^.::::::: 

Wet  finishtag 

Piece  dyeing. .  

^^SS^^^^S^^'  oipuVting- „p-  az,a 
General  expense  < _[ 

«    .    Total  conversion  cost . . 

Cost  of  stock ....."!.'.'.' 

liess  credit  waste 

Net  manufacturing  cost 


Produc- 
tive or 
direct 
labor.i 


Non- 
produc- 
tive or 
indirect 
labor.* 


Depart- 
ment ma- 
terials.3 


Total  cost 

for 

yards. 


Cost  per 
yard. 


636  BEPOBT  OF  TAEIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHBDTJIiB  K. 

Sgheditlb  7. — General  expenm, 

Noii:.-All  items  of  expense  are  to  be  given  for  mill  property  only,  not  including  tenements. 

A.  WORKS  EXPENSE. 


L  Administrative  expense  chargeable  to  manulacture: 

a.  Salaries, executive.... •' 

b.  Salaries,  clerical 

c.  Salaries,  superintendence 2 


*r^ni • ' 

2.  Designing' and  pattern  making -  •  -  -  - ,,- -  -  ■;  v  "  ;; 

8  oSoral  labor-engineer,  firemen,  warebousfflnen,  yard,  and  watch,  etc........ .. 

t  l^Uaneous  operating  expenses,  such  as  office  supplies,  telegrams,  sundries: 


Total 

S.  Fuel: 

Coal 

Wood 

Other..... ..,,.......•. 

Total 

B.  Power  and  light  purchased  from  outside.. 

7.  Water  purchased. 

8.  Repairs  and  maintenance: 

Materials 

Labor 


1E i 


Total. ...............•.•.••-■ 

9.  Accident  or  Viability  insurance 

10.  Hauling  and  stable  (current  expense) . . . . 

11.  Other  expenses: 


Total  works  expense  (1  to  11). 


B.  FIXED  CHARGES. 


1.  Insurance:  I 


Fire 


Other. 


Total 

a.  Taxes  on  mill  property 

Business  or  corporation  taxes 

8.  I*«P^gjf^,  ^t  o,  niiU  buildings  (not  including  land) t 

Annual  depreciation  rate ,  —^  P«f  cent. 

Amount  of  annual  depreciation  of  Duudlngs • 

If.  Original  cost  of  machinery  and  equipment • 

Annual  denreciation  rate.  per  cent. 

AZunt  of  SSi  depreijiation  £d  obsoletion  of  machinery  and  equip- 
ment     • 

Total  depreciation 


Total  fixed  charges  (1  to  3).  ...■•--■ 
Total  general  exjjenses  (A  plus  B). 


Total  amount  paid  out  in  wages  during  the  fiscal  year  ending 

19— ,1 

Give  the  wages  for  the  busiest  year  during  the  last  five  years. 

Eemarks: 


BEPOBT  OP  TABIPF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 

Schedule  8.— Pay  roll,  year  ending jTW— . 


637 


Departments. 


Wages  paid  for — 


Sorting  and  blending 

Scouring .'. .  

Mixing  and  picking  .'li;.;; • 

Carding....  .        *         

Combing 

Dyeing 

Spinning 

Twisting ." 

Doubling  and  twisting...  

Reeling  and  winding :.;::::::;:: 

Spooling 

Epmining  and  packing  yarns.".".' 

Warping .  

Warp  sizing 

Dressing  (including  drawing-in); 

vVeaving...  

Burling ;.;; 

Mending 

Remending^sp^ckin'g/etc  ;.*:::::::::: 

Wet  finishing..  

Dry  finishing  and  insiiecti"ni"("e"xdludi^"ia"bor"(;f  puttiiig'up);:: 

Total 

Total  nonproductive  'labor  per"  Schedule"? .'  ] ." .' ." ."  ".'.';;;;;.■ 


Produc- 
tive 
labor. 


Nonpro- 
ductive 
labor. 


Total 
labor. 


Depart- 
ment ma- 
teriala. 


Total  wages. 


Schedule  9. —Total  production,  year  ending 


-,  191~. 


A.  YARN  PRODUCED. 


3.  Quantity  of  yam  produced  ^      pounds 

6.  Quantity  of  yam  purc'ha^"ed P"^^^^^ 

Remlrfa.  "''°'^''  '^  ^'"^  Bpiilniig  mill  waa^in  Operation  dunK' period,- 


B.  CLOTH  PRODUCED  YEAR  ENDING ,  i9i_. 

Total  number  of  hours  weaving  mill  was  in  operation  during  the  period i. 


Name  of  cloth. 


Size  yarn 
in  warp. 


Size  yam 
in  weft. 


Warp 
ends  to 
inch  at 

loom. 


'••••ti«  . 


Number     ,xr. ,,. 
of  picks      ^i^th 


to  inch  at 
loom. 


iKtllaai.a,, 


finished 
(inches). 


Weight 
per  yard 
(ounces). 


Total 
yards 
pro- 
duced. 


638 


BEPOBT  OF  TABirF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDUOl  K. 

Schedule  10. — Equipment  and  maintenance. 


OperatioQ. 


eorting... 
Dusting.. 

Scouring. 
Dyeing.. 


Mixing  and  picking 

CaJding 

.. •  •.«  •  -  •••••••••••••••••••• 

•  ••  »...-•••■.•••••••••••••••• 

..  .  .  .  .-..••••••••••••••••••- 

Spinning 

Doubling  and  twisting 

».•  ..•-. •••••••••••■"•*•■•••* 

Spooling 

Winding 

iJressing'and  warp  siiing . . . 
Weaving 

Wet  and  dry  iinishing 

iiisceUaneous 


Nrm- 

ber  ol 

ma- 

chities. 


Maker. 


Year 

built. 


... . ^. . . 


How 
long  in 

use. 


Coet  in- 
stalled, 
includ- 
ing pul- 
leys, 
belting, 

and 
shafting. 


Cost  of 

fixtures 

and  mis- 

oellane- 

ous 
equip- 
ment. 


Repairs, 

mainte- 
nance, 

and  sup- 
plies, 

year  end. 

ing , 

191—. 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 

Schedule  11.— Equipment  and  Tnaintenance. 


639 


Operation. 


Sorting  and  blending. 
Dusting  and  scouring. 


Cardmg 

Combing .'."  l[]"  "["[["  [  ] .' ." ." ; ' " ' " " ' ' ; 

•-    •     •"-•-•----*---••----,,...,,,._ 

i^ye»°g 

*''-'•'''•-''•''•*   ~    m   ^   »    m    »   m    •»   m    .    ^    ^   .    ^    ^    ^   ^    ^   ^    ^   ^    ^    _ 

I>rawing 

Spinning;; ;;;;;;;; ;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;; 

Twisting ...  ^ .!!..!  1 ."..."."'".'".""]' ' 
Reeling ....  i .'  * .'  i ''!.'.'"."." " 

spi)i)iingv;:;:::::;:::;:;:::;;:;;; ;;; 

Warping.'.' .'.['" .' ." .' ; .' ; ; ' " ; "  ■ ; ;;;;;;;; 
waip  siz  i'ng .' i  1 ;.' i ;  1 ."]]  V  ;;;;;;;;■■* ; 

wiidin^;::::;:::::;;:::::::::;::::;; 

Doubling  and  twisting .'." .'  .[[[[[[[[[l 


i>r^ingv;:;::;::::;:;::::::;:::;::;; 
w^^;::::::::::::;::::::;; ;;; ;;; 

Wet  and  dry  fliiis'liing \l  ""[""[[" . 
Miscellaneous .. ..!  1 ..'.'[!.".'.' ' 


Num- 
ber 
of  ma- 
chines. 


Maker. 


Year 
built. 


How 
long  in 

use. 


Cost  in- 
stalled, 
includ- 
ing pul- 
leys, 
belting, 

and 
shafting. 


Cost  of 
fixtures 
and  mis- 
cellane- 
ous 
equip- 
ment. 


Repairs, 
mainte- 
nance, 
and  sup- 
plies, 
year  end- 
ing  , 

191—. 


THE   COST   OF   MAKING   TOPS. 

trade.  A  top  maker  is  properly  a  merchant  and  not  a  manufacturer  ' 
SlH't;^?  'tT'^°°^  an(f  sells  tops  to  worsted  spW^  He  may 
have  a  plant  of  his  own  for  combing  tins  wool,  or  he  may  have  the 
actual  combmg  done  on  commission  by  somebody  eke 


640 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDUO:  K. 


If  the  term  "top  maker"  be  understood  in  this  sense,  it  is  obvi- 
ously impossible  to  make  any  statement  as  to  the  cost  of  top  making. 
The  expense  of  the  top  maker  lies  first  in  his  office  expenses,  freight, 
selling  expenses,  etc. ^secondly,  in  the  cost  of  sortmg  the  wool  t<J 
secure  the  auahties  and  grades  which  wiU  msure  the  quaUty  of  tops 
desired  by  tne  customer;  third,  in  his  loss  on  off-sorts,  which  however 
would  properly  be  a  charge  against  the  cost  of  material.  Therefore, 
the  onhr  item  regardmg  which  any  comparable  rate  could  be  secured 
would  be  that  of  sorting. 

The  problem  here,  however,  has  to  do  with  the  manufacturing 
end  rather  than  the  mercantile  end.  In  foreign  countries  wool 
combing  is  done  very  largely  on  commission  and  there  are  great 
establishments  whose  sole  business  is  the  turning  of  the  wocS  for 
their  customers  into  tops  and  noils  for  a  given  fixed  charge.  The 
customer  furnishes  the  wool  and  receives  back  the  tops,  noils,  and 
waste.  This  is  also  done  to  a  certain  extent  in  tliis  countiy,  although 
the  more  general  practice  is  for  worsted  spinners  to  make  their  own 
tops. 

In  comparing  costs  it  is  necessary  to  keep  this  distmction  m  mind, 
as  there  are  certain  costs  which  inhere  in  tne  one  method  and  not  in 
the  other.  The  commission  comber  ordinarily  has  no  expense  for 
sorting,  as  the  wool  is  sent  to  him  in  a  sorted  condition.  In  case 
his  customer  wishes  him  to  do  the  sorting  as  well,  he  makes  an  extra 
charge  for  this  not  included  in  the  ordinary  rate.  He  has  no  loss  on 
off-sorts  or  waste,  they  falling  entirely  upon  the  customer.  Nor, 
for  the  same  reason,  has  he  any  interest  charge  on  carrying  the  wool. 
Also,  he  has  no  selling  charges.  It  is  important  to  note  tliese  facts, 
since  it  would  be  incorrect  to  take  the  charges  for  commission  comb- 
ing as  identical  with  the  actual  total  cost  of  turning  raw  wool  into 
tops.  ^ 

On  the  other  hand,  the  commission  rate  for  combing  would,  under 
normal  conditions^  cover  not  only  interest  on  the  plant,  but  whatever 
profit  the  comber  is  able  to  make  besides.  To  a  certain  extent  the  in- 
terest and  profit  of  the  commission  comber  may  be  taken  to  offset 
the  greater  expense  of  the  spinner  who  makes  his  own  tops,  so  that  the 
commission  rate  would  approximate  the  actual  net  cost  of  the  manu- 
facturer who  carried  all  the  processes  through  in  his  own  establish- 
ment. 

Where  the  manufacturer  makes  tops  for  liis  own  use  he  has  heavier 
warehouse  charges  and  the  expense  of  sorting  the  wool  as  a  part  of 
his  costs.  He  further  either  requires  additional  working  capital  to 
carry  large  stocks  of  wool  over  the  necessary  period  or  must  pay 
interest  on  current  loans  for  this  purpose.  On  tlie  other  hand,  in 
attempting  to  arrive  at  the  net  cost  of  the  manufacturer  no  interest 
on  the  plant  and,  still  more,  no  profit  is  included.  In  our  consid- 
eration of  the  cost  of  making  tops  we  also  exclude  in  all  cases  any  loss 
on  offsotts  in  sorting  or  waste  in  manufacture.  These  are  not  strictly 
a  part  of  the  actual  manufacturing  costs,  but  are  properly  credited  to 
the  cost  of  materials. 

The  cost  of  turning  wool  into  tops  varies  materially  with  the  char- 
acter of  the  wool.  Finer  wools  require  more  careM  treatment  in 
scouring  and  necessitate  also  a  slower  speed  of  the  macliinery,  thereby 
reducing  the  output.  For  this  reason  it  is  difficult  to  tabulate  figures 
giving  an  average  wMch  can  be  taken  as  representative,  since  the 
variation  in  the  qualities  of  tops  made  is  so  great.    The  same  mill  will 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


641 


I 


regularly  make  tops  of  different  grades  at  the  same  time  and  can 
determine  for  itself  the  actual  cost  of  each  particular  grade  only  by  a 
somewhat  rough  method. 

Furthermore,  the  cost  per  pound  of  tops  will  vary  according  to  the 
relative  proportion  of  tops  and  noils  secured  from  the  process.  The 
scale  for  commission  combing  in  Bradford,  England,  differentiates  its 
charges  according  to  the  percentage  of  the  units.  For  instance,  the 
charge  for  combing  merino  wools  above  56s.  quality  is  4^  cents  per 
pound  where  the  proportion  of  tops  to  noils  is  5  to  1  or  over.  The 
chaise,  then,  increases  as  the  proportion  of  noils  increases.  In  gen- 
eral, however,  the  proportion  of  noils  is  seldom  greater  than  1  to  5, 
and  this  may  be  taken  as  the  regular  commission  charge  for  fine  qual- 
ity wools.  On  56s.  quahty  for  "carding  crossbreds''  corresponding 
to  our  one-half  blood  the  charge  is  3f  cents;  for  50s.,  corresponding  to 
three-eighths  blood,  3^  cents;  for  36s.  to  46s.,  equivalent  to  our  low 
one-quarter  blood,  the  charge  is  3  cents;  and  for  low  grade  prepared, 
but  not  carded,  the  rate  is  2J  or  2i  cents. 

There  is  no  standard  scale  for  commission  combing  in  this  country. 
The  following,  however,  may  be  taken  as  representative  charges: 
Unwashed  Territory  wools,  half  blood  or  above,  7i  cents  a  pound; 
AustraUan  half  blood  and  merino  wools,  not  finer  than  70s.  quaUty, 
and  domestic  wools,  half  blood  or  above,  7  cents  per  pound;  high- 
quarter  blood  to  half  blood,  6  cents  (an  extra  charge  is  made  on 
unwashed  Territory  wools);  high-quarter  blood,  5i  cents;  quarter- 
blood  and  common  combing  wools,  5  cents. 

It  will  be  seen  that  the  lowest  charge  in  the  United  States  is  about 
double  the  lowest  charge  in  England.  On  the  finer  qualities  the 
difference  in  the  charge  is  not  so  great,  it  being  from  65  to  55  per 
cent  more  as  the  fineness  increases. 

Our  investigations  here  and  abroad  lead  to  the  conclusion  that  the 
difference  in  these  commission  charges  is  fuUy  offset  by  the  difference 
in  cost  of  production.  Our  study  of  the  cost  of  making  fine-quahty 
tops  at  many  mills  in  this  country  would  indicate  that  the  commission 
charge  of  7  cents  would  allow  a  profit  only  when  the  combs  are  run- 
ning full  time.  Domestic  mills  doing  both  a  commission  business  and 
a  business  on  their  own  account  seem  often  to  do  commission  comb- 
ing, merely  to  keep  all  their  machinery  going,  at  a  rate  not  profitable 
for  a  purely  combing  establishment. 

In  attempting  to  arrive  at  the  cost  of  tops  from  a  consideration  of 
actual  mill  records  for  a  given  period  of  time,  we  have  found  the 
widest  divergencies  due  to  the  difference  in  output.  For  a  six- 
months  period  in  one  mill  the  average  cost  of  production  for  all  tops 
was  only  4.28  cents  per  pound,  while  for  another  six-months  period 
in  the  same  mill  runnmg  upon  practically  the  same  quality  of  tops 
the  actual  average  cost  was  9.37  cents  a  pound.  In  the  first  period, 
however,  the  output  was  about  three  and  one-half  times  the  output 
in  the  second  period.  In  the  first  case  the  mill  was  running  over- 
time and  in  the  second  case  much  of  the  machinery  was  idle,  while 
the  fixed  and  overhead  charges  continued  the  same.  In  view  of  the 
fluctuations  due  to  such  causes  it  is  necessary  in  considering  relative 
costs  to  figure  them,  so  far  as  possible,  on  a  basis  of  full  running  tune. 
The  lowest  actual  cost  we  have  found  for  making  low-quarter 
blood  tops  in  any  given  period  was  3.24  cents  for  a  six-months  pro- 
duction on  a  greater  than  normal  output.    This,  however,  is  an 


642 


BEPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOAEB  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


extreme  case  which  could  seldom  bo  duplicated  bj  any  mill  even 
under  tlie  most  favorable  circumstances. 

The  following  table  from  actual  American  records  shows  clearly 
these  great  variations.  This  table  covers  many  miUions  of  pounds 
of  tops  produced  in  25  months  divided  into  four  periods.  The 
variations  in  output  in  the  respective  periods  is  shown  in  terms  of 
percentage  of  total  production  for  each  period  at  the  bottom  of 
each  column. 

Variations  in  cost  oj  converting  wool  into  tops. 


Quality  of  top. 

6  months 

(cents  per 

pound). 

0  months 

(cents  per 

jwiind). 

7  months 

(cents  per 

poima). 

6  months 

(cents  per 

pound). 

Unwashed  territory,  one-half  blood  or  above 

6.37 

4.91 

4.C3 

4.3r 

3.86 

3.24 

7.60 
6.79 
6.19 
6.10 
5.62 
4.48 

8.59 
7.75 
7.05 
6.31 
5.90 
4.89 

10.85 
10.05 
8.82 
8.13 
6.66 
6.09 

Australian  and  domestic,  one-haif  blood  and  above 

Unwashed  territory,  three-eighths  blood 

Australian  or  domestic,  three-eighths  blood 

Australian  or  domestic  high  one-quarter  blood 

Quarter  blood 

Total  production  for  25  months,  produced  In  each  period,  per 
cent 

46.40 

24.19 

16.81 

12.60 

The  labor  cost  by  processes  is  shown  in  the  following  table,  taken 
from  other  actual  mill  records  for  the  production  of  about  5,000,000 
pounds  of  tops: 

Labor  cost  per  pound  oj  tops  in  the  United  States. 

Sorting $0.0063 

pouring 0022 

J^ardmo: 0027 

CoEabmg 0081 

Total  direct  labor 0194 

Miscellaneous  outeide  labor [[]      ] 0074 

Total  labor  coet 0268 

It  is  impossible  in  taking  actual  figures  on  a  large  output  to  separate 
labor  costs  according  to  the  exact  quality  of  the  tops.  The  above 
figures  include  tops  of  fine  merino  to  low  quarter  bloods.  These  tops, 
however,  were  primarily  made  for  low-count  yarns,  and  the  labor 
costs  may  be  taken  as  fairly  representative  of  the  labor  costs  in 
making  tops  of  medium  quality.  A  comparison  of  a  large  number 
of  mills  shows  this  to  be  true,  and  that  the  general  expense  and 
fixed  charges  are  nearly  equal  to  the  labor  cost;  so  that,  excluding 
interest,  the  cost  of  tops  in  a  mill  running  full  time  may  be  taken  as 
ranifing  from  4  to  5  cents  per  pound  on  tops  from  low-quarter  bloods 
to  high-quarter  bloods. 

The  combing  industry  in  England  and  on  the  Continent  is  much 
more  highly  organized  than  in  the  United  States,  and  is  carried  on 
with  a  relatively  greater  margin  of  profit  per  unit  of  top,  so  that  the 
difference  between  actual  costs  appears  to  be  greater  than  the  difference 
in  the  commission  rates.  Statements  were  made  to  members  of  the 
board  by  combers  in  England  to  the  effect  that  ''We  can  do  for  a 
penny  a  pound  what  costs  the  Americans  two  pence."  Actual 
figures  given  in  some  cases  indicate  the  truth  of  this,  so  far  at  least 
as  low-grade  or  medium-grade  tops  are  concerned. 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  OK  SCHEDULE  K. 


643 


A  comparison  of  the  actual  records  of  two  similar  plants — one  in 
England  and  the  other  in  the  United  States — showed  the  combmg 
cost  for  the  period  of  output  in  question  (not  including  sorting)  to  be 
2  cents  in  England  and  4.27  cents  in  this  country.  The  American 
plant,  however,  was  making  a  sHghtly  higher  grade  of  tops.  From 
the  figures  in  both  cases  interest  and  depreciation  were  deducted,  as 
the  English  charges  were  so  disproportionately  low  as  to  show  a  differ- 
ence in  bookkeeping  method  on  tnese  items. 

Another  comparison  from  actual  records  in  England  and  the 
United  States  showed  for  a  year's  period  an  average  of  receipts  of  4 
cents  a  pound  in  England  and  7  cents  a  pound  in  the  United  States; 
while  the  profit  per  pound  in  the  two  cases  was  practically  the  same, 
It  bemg  very  close  to  1  cent  per  pound  in  each  case.  This  is  not  an 
unusual  profit  per  pound  in  England,  and  in  the  case  just  cited  it 
amounted  to  25  per  cent  of  the  commission  charge  in  England,  as 
against  14.3  per  cent  in  the  United  States. 

It  is  further  interesting  to  note  that  the  direct  labor  cost,  excluding 
labor  for  repairs,  power  plant,  etc.,  was  in  the  case  of  these  two  plants 
69  cents  per  100  pounds  in  England  and  $1.76  in  the  United  States, 
bemg  shghtly  less  than  25  per  cent  of  the  total  cost  in  England  and 
33  per  cent  of  the  total  cost  in  the  United  States.  Other  estimates 
were  furnished  the  board  in  England  to  the  effect  that  the  direct 
labor  cost  is  not  more  than  20  per  cent  of  the  total. 

The  following  table  is  presented  as  fairly  representative  of  the  cost 
of  making  a  very  high  quaUty  of  tops  by  mills  using  the  French 
system  of  combmg.  The  relative  cost  of  combing  by  the  French 
method  and  the  Bradford  method— that  is,  with  the  Noble  comb- 
vanes  m  different  mills  employing  both  methods.  The  output  of  the 
t  rench  comb  is  less  than  that  of  the  Noble  comb.  But,  on  the  other 
hand,  more  French  combs  can  be  tended  by  single  operatives,  so  that 
some  mills  show  an  even  slightly  lower  labor  cost  by  the  French 
system  In  spite  of  the  smaller  output  per  comb.  This,  however  is 
somewhat  exceptional,  and  the  French  system  is  commonly  consid- 
ered the  more  expensive  of  the  two,  even  in  labor  costs  alone. 

In  the  followmg  table  the  charge  for  sorting  has  been  excluded  in 
ordcT  to  make  the  figures  comparable  with  European  figures  for 
combmg  by  the  same  method: 

Cost  of  converting  wool  into  tops  per  pound  of  tops. 
(French  combing  in  the  United  States.] 


Scouring: 
Labor. . . 
Material. 


Total. 


Carding  and  combing: 

Labor 

Material 


Choicest 
Austra- 
lian. 


f0.0017 
.0089 


70-8OS, 
Austra- 
lian. 


.0106 


Total. 


General  expense 

Total  conversion  cost  (exclusive  of  sorting)! 


.0238 
.0040 


.0278 


.0347 
.0732 


$0.0017 
.0085 


.0102 


XXX 

mixture. 


Fine 

staple 

territory. 


$0.0017 
.0086 


.0103 


.0238 
.0040 


.0278 


.0344 
.0725 


.0238 
.0040 


.0278 


$0.0017 
.0085 


.0102 


.0238 
.0040 


.0345 
.0727 


.0278 


.0344 
.0724 


:=::3rsrraaea««i 


644 


KEPORT  OF   TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


The  following  table  is  compiled  from  the  actual  recor(^  of  ft 
leading  combing  establishment  on  the  Continent,  showing  the  cost 
per  pound  and  receipts  per  pound  on  an  output  of  not  less  than 
8.000,000  pounds  of  tops  for  a  six  months'  penod.  These  mills  ran 
oil  fine  Australian  merinos  and  South  American  crossbreds.  The 
variations  in  costs  are  the  result  of  fluctuations  m  the  output,  and  at 
no  time  m  the  period  was  the  mill  running  at  its  full  capacity.  Ihia 
should  be  borne  in  mind  in  a  comparison  with  the  table  of  American 
costs,  which  is  based  on  full  output.  The  system  was,  of  course,  that 
of  French  combing: 

Cost  o^cmMng  in  a  leading  continental  plant. 


First  month . . . 
Second  month. 
Third  month.. 
Fourth  month. 
Fifth  month... 
Sixth  month.. 


Cost  per 

Receipts 

per 
pound.* 

pound.! 

Cent$. 

Cents. 

4.143 

4.636 

3.839 

4.752 

8.752 

4.725 

3.878 

4.813 

8.822 

4.837 

4.469 

4.450 

I  Excluding  sorting. 


Average  cost  per  month,  3.982  cents. 
Average  receipts  per  month,  4.695  cents. 


The  regular  combing  rates  in  Germany  are  given  below: 

Cmnmisdon  charges  for  combing  in  Germany. 


Kind  of  wool. 


1.  Merino  wool --  •  -  -  ■:  -  *:; ,;:  • ; 

Crossbred  wools  (one-half  blood  quaUty).  -  -  -  -  -  - 

2.  Crossbred  wools  (high  and  low  three-eighths  blood) 

3.  Crossbred  wools  (quarter  blood) 

4.  (Common,  britch,  braid,  etc 


C^ntsper 

poundof 

tops  and 

noils. 


4.320 
4.320 
3.780 
3.240 
2.916 


It  will  be  noted  that  the  rate  is  per  pound  of  top  and  noil  and  would 
consequently  be  higher  per  pound  of  top  W  about  10  per  cent. 

The  common  charge  in  Germany  for  making  high-gracle  Australian 
tops  is  45  pfennigs  per  kilogram,  or  4.86  cents  per  pound,  and  in  this 
charge  the  combers  reckon  on  a  wide  margin  of  proht.  i  he  returns 
from  a  representative  German  mill  show  the  cost  on  Austrauan  bOs 
to  be  3.45  cents  per  pound,  including  interest. 

It  win  be  seen,  then,  as  is  to  be  expected,  that  there  are  many  vana- 
tions  accordmg  to  the  grade  of  top  made  and  from  country  to  country. 
It  is  impossible,  of  course,  to  get  a  single  figure  showing  the  difference 
in  cost  either  in  cents  or  in  percentage,  even  for  a  single  grade. 
Actual  records  show  that  tops  can,  under  certain  circumstances,  be 
made  abroad  at  about  one-half  the  American  cost.  The  commission 
charges  on  high-grade  tops  run  from  65  per  cent  to  65  per  cent  higher 
in  this  country,  with  a  relatively  greater  difference  m  charge  on  the 
lower  grade  tops.    In  view  of  the  facts  related  it  seems  a  fair  state- 


VA 


K 

O 
O 

s 

K 

O 


I 

2 


(SUa) 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


645 


I 


ment  that  the  cost  of  making  tops  in  the  United  States  is  about  80 
per  cent  greater  than  abroad. 

The  chart  facing  this  page  gives  prices  for  certain  classes  of  tons  from 
January,  1907  to  October^  1911,  compiled  from  actual  pTchas" 
from  vanous  sellers  m  the  Boston  market.  purcnases 

COST  OP  CONVEBTING  TOPS  INTO  WOESTED  TAKN. 

Of  hl'onW^KTJ"*''  ^^^-  ^"^^^i^OTsi^d  yams  involved  three  lines 
of  mquiry.  First,  the  securmg  of  the  actual  book  figures  from  mills 
for  a  given  period  of  time,  showmg  total  quantity  of  yam  pr^u^ 
^^/  «f  counts,  average  count,  and  totaf  expenaituris  forX  same 
peno J.  These  expenditures  were  analyzed  in  order  to  put  different 
mills  on  a  comparative  basis  as  to  overhead  and  fixed  chWs  and  nil 
Items  not  properly  included  in  mill  costs  were  taS?  out 

becondly,  many  worsted  spinners  have  prepared  for  their  own  use 
elaborate  tables  as  to  the  cost  of  making  different  counts  of^arn 
Itemized  as  to  processes  and  the  varioul  elements  of  cost     S 
figures,  of  course,  do  not  give  the  costs  for  any  specific  lots  of  v^n 

Sfn™^!?  Ti*^1k  *  H'^"''  P^r*^'  b"*  i-^  some^ways  they  U  e^n 
more  valuable  than  the  actual  returns  for  any  particular  neriod  «Wa 
they  have  been  worked  out  from  years  of  ytSTxnenpnce  '  Thf 
board   through  its  agents,  has  copiid  thesl  Sden?a™uiatJm 

STottr  fi^°S  "'  ^""""^  "^^  ^"'^  '^^^^  ""^^^  been  us^ftocS 

esEi—SfrSlfn^  SSS'Lt",  mS/cei*S( 
Sr%Sprsol^^"'  ''''  ^^'^  '^^^^  "^^  --^  C^p^ose^ol 
■   ^y  c'leckmg  the  results  of  these  three  different  inauiries  anH  rp,1,„. 
ing  the  different  methods  of  bookkeeping  to TK^  bS^  it  t" 
been  possible  to  secure  figures  which  canT>e  depended  uS 
Difficulties  were,  of  course,  encountered  in  such  anZquirv    but 

afapMe-tfe  rtVi^;r|e\fcairS| 
produce  is  very  si  ght.  Where  a  sn-eat  vflrStJ^r>AT^  7  wtuch  they 
It  is  impossibli  evin  for  the  mUl1tsKhlr.(^t^L?°^\''  P^pd^^^d 
pivjner  Lnortionment  of  expenses  to  ea^ttSec^ 
mUfs  whici  would  operate  uSder  practic^VtKme  cofitiom  ani 
^fT  J  -t  l^®  *^^?S^  *'''^*«  ^SM,  by  employing  dfffeMntm^l,«^= 
t/cuti"' m"^  '^'"'''^  chargesf  show^a  sli^SSn  on  a"ny  p^^! 

wh?rr£"pi^o^dtf  f  "pt'&'l?fo^i\C'^"f  -  P^"'?,'!'  -- 
32080°-~H.Doc.342.62-2,vol2 3 


646  RBPOBX  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 

whole  industry  than  this.  It  wiU  be  seen  that  the  cost  fluctuates 
OTcatly  accorcling  to  the  amount  of  output.  The  actual  amount  ot 
product  is  omitted  to  prevent  identification  of  the  establisliment, 
but  the  comparative  amounts  are  expressed  in  terms  of  1,000  units. 
It  will  be  seen  that  for  the  week  of  August  26  the  cost  was  9i  centa 
as  compared  with  a  cost  of  26|  cents  for  the  week  of  August  5,  the 
production  for  the  two  weeks  being  in  the  ratio  ot  1,481  to  5Ub. 

Specimen  weeMy  cost  s}i£eis. 

Week  ending  May  27. 1911  (yarn  shipped.  1,000  units):  Cents  P^rm^M^ 

Cost  of  spinning ^./l^ 

Cost  of  drawing -  - r.X.j 

Coetofwinding,  twisting,  Bpooling,  etc "f^' 

Cost  of  fixed  expenaee 

Average  count  for  week,  20.93.  .^^^ 

Week  ending  June  17,  1911  (yarn  shipped,  1,339  units): 

Cost  of  spinning «2io 

Cost  of  drawing -  - «,«« 

Cost  of  winding,  twisting,  spooling,  etc "^^^ 

Cost  of  fixed  expenses 

Average  count  for  week,  19 .09.  ^  ^^^ 

Week  ending  Au^.  5,  1911  (yam  shipped,  506  units):  ^^^ 

Cost  of  sninmng ;•;;•-;      '^ggg 

Cost  of  drawing - ^.;»,« 

Cost  of  winding,  twisting,  epooling,  etc "^^^ 

Cost  of  fixed  expenses - ' 

Average  count  for  week,  19.76.  2«^g 

Week  ending  Aug.  26, 1911  (yam  shipped,  1,481  ^nits):  ^^ 

Cost  of  spinning 0^^^ 

Cost  of  drawing........ :.••••; *       "0069 

Cost  of  winding,  twisting,  epooling,  etc V^qy 

Cost  of  fixed  expenses ____ 

Average  count  for  week,  20. 69  ^eo 

NoTE.-Coet  of  winding,  twisting,  spooling,  etc.,  is  figured  on  total  weekly  pro- 
duction  ASually  only  ai>out  30  per  cent  of  the  production  i.  ^^^"f^f.  J^?^^:5vi?i 
Zoled^^  the  cost  on  this  30  per  cent  would  l)e  three  and  one-<hird  times  the 

figures  given. 

For  the  whole  year  of  1909,  running  on  an  average  count  of  24  1,  the 
book  fiffures  of  the  mill  show  a  cost  of  8.3  cent^,  while  on  exactly  the 
same  count  in  1910,  with  a  production  of  only  60  per  cent  of  the  pre- 
vious year,  the  cost  rises  to  18.7  cents.  These  figures  are  given 
simply  to  show  the  variations  under  different  conditions  of  output 
and  are  printed  as  carried  on  the  books.  .  j        xu 

In  this  mill  the  general  item  of  ''fixed  expenses  is  earned  on  the 
books  in  a  certain  definite  amount,  which  mcludes  mterest  and  is, 
furthermore,  in  excess  of  the  actual  expenses,  so  that  these  tigures 
should  all  be  reduced  in  order  to  show  absolute  costs. 

In  view  of  this  difliculty  the  Tariff  Board  has  adopted  a  general  rule 
of  figuring  all  costs  on  the  basis  of  full  normal  output,  as  m  the  case 

^  Th&d,  variations  are  found  to  appear  not  only  according  to  vari- 
ations in  actual  output  due  to  general  business  fluctuations,  but  also 
accordmg  as  a  mill  la  producing  just  those  yams  for  which  it  is  ^pe- 
cially  equipped.  Thus  a  miU  fully  equipped  for  twisting,  winding, 
and  spoofing  will  show  an  excessive  cost  in  making  single  yams,  smce 


BEPOBT  OP   TARIFF  BOAED  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


647 


a  part  of  the  plant  remains  idle.  It  is  really  underproduction  in 
another  se^e.  Or  a  spinning  mill  wiU  normally  be  equipped  as  to 
cardmg  and  combing  maclmiery  to  secure  a  maximum  eMcWrfor 
the  whole  plant  when  producnig  yam  withiii  a  certain  narrow  mi^e 
of  counts.  If  the  market  demand  of  the  moment  requires  the  prS- 
duction  of  either  lugher  or  lower  counts  the  cost  ontliese  will  be  cor- 
respondingly increased,  smce  the  combing  macliinery  will  be  in  excess 
of  spinning  requnrements  m  the  first  case,  and  below  in  the  ^cond 
case. 

„  wi!!  ^j^"  f-^^u^^  ^'Sures  of  certain  milk  show  what  would  seem  to  be 
abnoimaUy  liigh  costs  on  some  counts  and  abnormaUy  low  cosL  on 

-  nS  ''r  ^  *^  /^^^  ^^f  J'  '°  general  makes  a  large  quantity  of 
a  particular  grade  for  winch  its  costs  are  below  the  average  ^ 

for  the  LrtW  t^f  ^"?  comparison,  due  regard  should  be  had 
lor  ine  lact  tliat  the  cost  of  makmg  a  given  count  of  vBm  rra^^^ 
with  the  cjuaUty  of  the  wool  from  wlSch  1    L  made,\dth^  th?  Jelgh? 

and  wXTlf^T^t  ^  ^•P^i^'^^S*  «f  <J^«  process  c'Xl"ckawS' 
and  with  tlio  twist  per  mch.  The  same  yam  can  be  snun  from 
different  sized  roym^.    So  far  as  the  weiglt  of  the  rovX  I  ^n 

rr'^'-^Hl  '"T"^'?'^  ^^^^«  ^""''J  ^«  sho^^Ti  practical/  b^TSfl^reTe 
in  cost  m  the  drawmg  process  and,  takmg  the  whole  cost  of  nrodnrHon 
from  top  to  yarn  wouTd  not  be  ail  eleSlnt  of  mucr^Knce  ex- 

tiT.IvtL?''  ""/'J  ™'^  •  *  "  '°'^^  ^"gl^«^  ^''^t  foi-  drawing  and  a  r da- 
tively lower  cost  for  spmnmg  than  another  mill. 

10  iiJiistrate  the  vaiiations  due  to  the  quahtv  of  the  material  anH 


Count  of  yam. 


2/30S. 


Do 

Do ::  ■ 


Do. 
Do. 
Do. 

r>S;:.;::;.;::;; hi" 

Do  «^ 

Do -"ji^ 

Do --30 


Do 

Do.... 
Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 


Yearly 
produc- 
tion, in 
pounds. 


Labor, 
not  in- 
cluding 
spooling 
and  reel- 
ing. 


Salaries, 
not  in- 
cluding 
spooling 
and  reel- 
ing. 


...do. 
..do. 
.-do. 
..do. 


2,433,600 

2,340,000 

2,260,800 

2,181,600 

2,109,600 

2,044,800 

1,972,800 

2,217,600 

2,138,400 

2,073,600 

2,001,600 

1,936,800 

1,872,000 

1,828,800 

1,915,200 

1,850,400 

1,792,800 

1,728,000 

1,677,600 

1,634,400 


Per  lb. 

$0.06132 
.06206 
.06269 
.06342 

.own 

.06478 

.06533  , 

.06810 

.06381 

.06448 

.06524 

.06598 

.06685 

.06732 

.06624 

.06705 

.06780 

.06872 

.06950 

.07018 


Per  lb. 

80.00845 
.00878 
.00909 
.00942 
.00974 
.01005 
.01042 
.00927 
.00961 
.00991 
.01027 
.01061 
-01091 
.01124 
.01073 
.01111 
.01147 
.01190 
.01225 
.01258 


General 

ex- 
penses, 
not  in- 
cluding 
spool- 
ing and 
reeling. 


Perm. 
JO. 02902 
.03018 
.03124 
.03237 
.03347 
.03453 
. 03579 
.03184 
.03302 
.03405 
.03528 
.03646 
.03772 
.03861 
.03687 
.03816 
.03939 
.04087 
.04209 
.04321 


cost  of  "making  yarS  grea^^carf  sho^fJ'V^f  ^'""^*'  regarding  the 
these  variatioil  Ld  to'^^T.^^^ZiV^T.^.^^Zt^^^ 


648 


EEPOKT  OF  TAEIFF  BOABD  ON   SCHEDITLE  K. 


Basis.  Even  after  making  full  allowance  for  these  factors,  mills  may 
show  differences  of  cost  of  production  for  exactly  the  same  nominal 
count  of  3'am  from  the  same  stock  and  made  under  the  same  condi- 
tions, not  only  because  of  difference  in  local  advantage  or  skill  of 
management,  but  because  some  mills  may  be  making  yarns  used  in 
special  fabrics,  which,  although  of  nominally  the  same  quality  and 
size  may  nevertheless  require  for  this  particular  purpose  an  unusual 
amount  of  additional  care  and  a  slower  rate  of  production. 

It  is  well  kno^vn,  also,  that  the  cost  of  making  yarn  from  dyed  tops 
is  greater  than  when  yam  is  spun  in  tlie  gray,  and  an  aaditional 
allowance  should  always  be  made  in  such  cases.  When  we  come  to 
such  specialties  as  so-called  "hard-twisted"  yarn,  the  expense  is,' 
furthermore,  greatly  increased,  both  from  the  mcrease  in  waste  and 
from  the  much  smaller  output  in  pounds  for  a  given  time.  It  is 
not  necessary  to  attempt  to  go  into>taiIs  regardmg  all  these  differ- 
ent factors  or  to  consider  a  great  varietv  of  counts,  oinco  most  mills 
are  equipped  for  twisting  as  well  as  spinning,  we  present  figur-fes  for 
two-ply  yarn  in  the  gray  as  representative  of  relative  conditions  of 
cost.  The  following  tafele  shows  cost  figures  for  the  United  States 
for  a  varietv  of  such  yarns.  They  have  been  computed  after  a  care- 
ful study  of  the  results  from  a  large  number  of  mills,  and  the  total 
figures  for  costs  are  doubtless  lower  than  will  be  shown  in  many 


cases. 


On  the  other  hand,  certain  mills  will  show  lower  figures  on  certain 
counts.  The  method  adopted  has  been  to  prorate  the  general  expense 
so  far  as  possible  to  each  separate  process,  including  only  in  the  item 
"general  expense,"  as  given  in  the  table,  such  outlay  as  can  not  be 
properly  charged  to  any  one  department.  It  is  needless  to  say  that 
the  "general-expense"  accounts  from  different  mills  have  been  edited 
to  show  only  charges  properly  entering  into  costs,  and  interest  has 
been  deducted  in  all  cases.  The  result  is  that  these  figures  may  be 
taken  as  presenting  fairly  the  cost  of  production  in  well-equipped 
mills  runnmg  full  time  under  efficient  management.  The  costs  would 
be  higher  whenever  production  is  below  normal. 

Cost  per  pound  of  converting  tops  into  medium  and  high  medium  worsted  yarns,  as  shown 
from  records  of  efficient  mills  in  the  United  States,  on  the  basis  of  full-time  production. 


riy  and  count  of  yarn. 

2/28., 

.2/». 

2/36. 

2/38. 

2/40. 

2/42. 

2/44. 

2/46. 

2/48. 

2/60. 

Drawine 

10.0322 

.0388 
.0255 

$0.0357 
.0436 
.0306 
.0212 
.0136 

10.0390 
.0507 
.0364 
.0232 
.0156 

I0.O407 
.0543 
.0393 
.0242 
.OlM 

10.0415 
.0546 
.0412 
.0257 
.0168 

10.0423  80.0455 

$0.0491 
.0777 
.0480 
.0310 
.0209 

$0.0502 
.0800 
.0500 
.0318 
.0215 

„„___ 

10.0591 

PniiiiiiTi(»- 

.0548 
.0132 
.0271 
.0173 

.0663 
.0456 
.0290 
.0191 

.1073 

TwiatiiiEr                           .     ... 

.0673 

StJOoliTie  and  reeling 

.0179 
.0118 

.0544 

GenerEl  exDcnses 

.0300 

Total  coBversioa  cost.... 

.1262 

.1448 

.1648 

.1749 

.1798 

.1847 

.2055 

.2267 

.2335     .3181 

The  following  two  tables  analyze  the  above  costs,  by  processes,  into 
productive  labor  per  pound  and  all  expenses  other  than  productive 
labor  properly  chargeaDle  to  any  process,  together  with  other  expenses 
not  ctajgeable  to  any  particular  department: 


til ' 
y  !|» 

ill 


...a'lmntto'rr" 

Kent    fi 


BEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 

t€m.iBi-"  ■■   '  :i.iver.sl;ty 

Prodwtive  labor  per  pound.  Wcw    10»k 

[Mm  running  full.] 


Drawing 

Spinning 

Twisting 

Spooling  and  reeling 

Total  productive  labor 
I>er  pound 


Ply  and  count  of  yam. 


2/28. 


$0. 0170 
.0146 
.0142 
.0132 


.0590 


2/32. 


$0.0182 
.0171 
.0171 
.0154 


.0678 


2/36. 


$0.0199 
.0199 
.0208 
.0167 


.0773 


2/38. 


$0.0208 
.0213 
.0226 
.0174 


.0821 


2/40. 


2/42. 


$0.0212 
.0214 
.0234 
.0183 


.0843 


$0.0216 
.0215 
.0242 
.0193 


.0866 


2/44. 


2/46. 


$0.0232  $0.0251 


2/48. 


.0260 
.0255 
.0206 


.0953 


.0305 
.0268 
.0219 


.1043 


$0.0256 
.0314 
.0279 
.0224 


.1073 


2/60. 


$0.0312 
.0588 
.0406 
.0438 


.1742 


Conversion  cost  per  pound,  with  special  reference  to  department  expense. 

[Mill  running  full.] 


.. 

•                                                            ■  — ■"» 

Ply  and  count  of  yarn. 

2/28. 

2/32. 

2/36. 

2/38. 

2/40. 

2/42. 

2/44. 

2/46. 

2/48. 

2/60. 

Productive  labor  for  all  proc- 
esses  

$0.0590 

$0.0678 

$0.0773 

Sn  fVt?1  'en  f)fi41  <A  noA^tlcn  <v\i;o 

$0.1043 

$0. 1073 

$0.1742 

•w\i-  uovnj  »v».  \Jir\jo 

All  expflnse  other  than  pro- 
ductive labor  chargeable  to 
drawing 

.0152 
.0242 
.0113 
.0047 
.0118 

.0175 
.0265 
.0136 
.0058 
.0136 

.0190 
.0308 
.0157 
.0065 
.0155 

.0198 
.0330 
.0167 
.0069 
.0164 

.0203 
.0332 
.0178 

.0074 
.0168 

.0207 
.0333 
.0190 
.0078 
.0173 

.0223 
.0403 
.0201 
.0084 
.0191 

.0240 
.0472 
.0212 
.0091 
.0209 

.0246 
.0486 
.0221 
.0094 
.0215 

.0279 
.0487 
.0267 
.0106 
.0300 

All  expen.se  other  than  pro- 
ductive labor  chargeable  to 
npinning     , . 

AlT  expense  other  thaii  pro- 
ductive labor  chargeable  to 
twisting 

AH  expense  other  than  pro- 
ductive labor  chargeable  to 
Bpooling  and  reeling 

All  other  expense  not  charge- 
able to  a  particular  depe^ 
ment 

Total  conversion  cost 

.1262 

.1448 

.1648 

.1749 

.1798 

.1847 

.2055 

.2267 

.2335 

.3181 

By  /'productive  labor"  is  meant  actual  labor  in  the  drawing  room, 
spinning  room,  etc.,  but  not  including  any  labor  for  maintenance  and 
repairs,  power  plant,  general  outside  labor,  and  the  like. 

jBy  ''all  expense  other  than  productive  labor  chargeable  to  the 
department"  is  meant  department  materials,  mill  findings  per  depart- 
ment, power,  Hght,  and  heating,  prorated  to  each  department;  in 
fact,  an  items  or  expense  which  can  be  prorated  to  a  single  depart- 
ment. 

The  phrase  "  all  other  expense  not  chargeable  to  a  particular  depart- 
ment" explains  itself. 

By  this  method  of  accounting  the  item  "general  expense"  becomes 
much  lower  than  where  a  different  system  is  adopted.  In  some  cases 
It  is  customary  to  throw  the  general  expense  into  one  item  without 
prorating  according  to  department.  In  such  case  the  general-expense 
charge  would  appear  relatively  high  and  the  cost  for  each  depart- 
ment relatively  low,  even  where  the  total  expense  is  the  same. 


650 


EBPOBT  OP  TABIFP  BOABD  ON  SCHEDUIiB  K. 


BEPOBT  OF  TAEIFF  BOAED  ON  SCHEDUL.E  K. 


651 


Figures  of  cost  were  secured  in  England  from  various  manufacturers 
on  actual  samples,  and  in  the  second  column  in  the  table  below  are 
given  the  figiu-es  which  represent  the  average  of  these  various  cal- 
culations. 

Comparatire  conversion  cost  ofmaHnff  certain  courUs  of  worsted  yearn  from  tops. 


Fly  ftsd  count  of  y»rii. 


2/24 

2/28 
2/32 
2/36, 
2/40 
2/50 


United 

States. 

England. 

For  com- 

naission 

Exclud- 

Includ- 

work, in- 

ing 

ing 

cluding 
interest 

interest. 

Interest. 

(Cost  per 
pound  of 

(CmtrteT 
pound  of 

and 

profit. 
(Cost  per 
pound  of 

yarn.) 

yarn.) 

yam.) 

Cents, 

Centa. 

Cents. 

10.86 

6.6 

6.6 

12.62 

6.6 

7.8 

14.48 

8.1 

0.1 

16.61 

9.6 

10.1 

17.99 

10.6 

12.2 

24.67 

13.7 

1S.3 

The  English  figures  of  cost  in  this  table  are  compared  with  the 
American  figures,  although  an  interest  charge  is  included  in  the  case 
of  England  but  not  in  the  case  of  the  Unitea  States.  The  reason  for 
this  is  that  it  ia  not  possible  to  exclude  the  interest  charge  from  the 
EngUsh  figures;  but  it  seemed  better,  with  this  explanation,  to  leave 
the  American  costs  without  interest  charge,  to  make  them  identical 
with  the  table  on  page  648.  Except  for  the  item  of  interest,  the  fig- 
ures for  England  may  be  taken  as  representing  costs  closely  f^^ured. 

In  the  tliird  column  are  given  fi|3;ures  for  commission  spinning  on 
similar  counts  of  yam,  wliich  include  not  only  interest,  but  profit 
to  the  spinner.  These  were  secured  on  specific  samples  of  yam  and  in 
some  cases  the  quality  of  the  wool  may  have  varied  slightly  from 
that  on  wliich  the  second  column  is  based.  But  these  variations 
would  not  materially  affect  the  results,  and  the  figures  may  be  taken 
as  fairly  comparable 

It  appears  n-om  the  table  that  the  cost  in  the  United  States  (interest 
not  included)  ranges  from  70  per  cent  to  94  per  cent  greater  than  in 
England.  Including  interest  m  the  American  costs  would  raise  this 
difference  and  for  some  counts  the  cost  would  be  greater  by  more 
than  100  per  cent. 

In  view  of  the  fact  that  the  figures  as  given  for  the  United  States 
have  been  put  at  what  may  be  considered  a  low  figure  when  compared 
with  the  large  number  of  mills  from  which  figures  were  received,  it 
may  be  said  that,  making  due  allowance  for  variations  on  account  of 
quality,  etc.,  the  actual  manufacturing  costs  in  the  United  States  for 
turning  tops  into  yam  is  about  twice  what  it  is  in  England. 

Care  should  be  taken  not  to  confuse  this  manufacturing  or  con- 
version cost  with  the  total  cost  including  the  raw  material.  On  the 
yams  on  wliich  figures  were  secured  for  commission  spinning  the 
actual  conversion  cost  was  in  all  cases  well  under  20  per  cent  of  the 
total  maiket  value  of  the  yam. 


I 


J 


COMFAEATIVE    CLOTH    MAKUFACTimiNG  '  COSTS— FEOM    YAJRN    TO 

FINISJIED   CLOTH. 

As  explained  on  pp.  626-631,  the  presentation  of  relative  costs  of 
cloth  manufacture  are  based  on  specific  samples  of  domestic  and 
foreign  products.  In  using  the  words  "conversion  cost,''  is  meant 
the  total  expense  incurred  m  manufacturing  yarn  into  finished  cloth 
ready  for  use  by  the  consumer.  It  does  not  include  the  cost  of  the 
yarn,  but  does  include  the  amounts  expended  for  both  direct  and 
mdirect  labor,  for  department  materials  in  the  several  processes  of 
manufacture,  and  the  charge  for  general  expense.  The  different 
manufacturing  processes  which  this  may  include  are  the  following: 
Doubhng  and  twisting,  spooling,  winding,  dressing  and  drawing  in, 
warp  sizm^,  weaving,  burling,  mending,  remending,  specking,  wet 
imshmg,  dveing— yam  or  piece— dry  finishing,  and  inspecting.  It 
does  not  take  mto  account  any  labor  cost  that  may  have  entered  into 
the  making  of  the  yam. 

The  weaving  rate  per  yard  is  the  price  paid  to  the  weaver  for  each 
yard  woven  by  him,  according  to  measurements  made  shortly  after 
the  cloth  IS  taken  from  the  loom.  This  explains  tlie  term  "rate  per 
yard  m  the  raw"  as  that  term  is  used  in  the  following  pages.  It  is, 
in  other  words,  the  rate  paid  for  each  yard  of  unfinished  cloth.  While 
m  the  loom,  the  cloth  is  held  taut  and  after  it  is  removed  it  naturally 
contracts  more  or  less  in  length.  There  is  also  a  shrinkage  m  the 
dyeing  and  finishing  processes,  the  amount  of  such  shrinkage  in  gen- 
eral varjang  accordmg  to  the  type  of  fabric. 

Keference  will  frequently  be  made  to  the  fact  that  in  weaving  a 
specihed  fabnc  a  weaver  generally  tends  two  or  more  looms.  Tliis 
IS  an  important  element  in  textile  manufacture,  as  the  number  of 
looms  tended  has  a  marked  effect  upon  the  rate  per  yard  that  is 
paid  to  the  weaver.  It  should  be  understood,  however,  that  in  such 
cas^  the  weaver  does  not  necessarily  make  the  same  fabric  on  both 
or  all  of  hi3»  looms. 

There  will  be  a  number  of  statements  made  as  to  the  number  of  ' 
yards  of  a  certain  fabric  a  weaver  will  produce  in  a  given  tune 
Hiese  figures  represent  the  production  that  an  average  good  weaver 
can  turn  out  m  weaving  a  specified  fabric.  When  statements  are 
made  as  to  the  amounts  weavers  would  earn  per  week  if  engaged 
entirely  m  weavmg  a  specified  fabric,  these  earnings  in  such  connec- 
tion must,  of  course,  be  somewhat  theoretical,  since  a  weaver  is 
seldom  engaged  for  any  considerable  tune  on  one  fabric.  Thev  do 
represent,  however,  the  average  earnings  of  the  weaver  on  that 
general  class  of  goods,  and  are  therefore  important  in  a  study  of 
conversion  cost  of  certain  types  of  cloth. 

The  results  of  the  board  in  regard  to  manufacturmg  cost  of  cloth 
here  and  abroad  are  as  follows: 

Sample  No.  1, 

Worsted  Panama  cloth,  36  inches  wide  and  weighing  4.2  ounces 
to  the  finished  yard:  The  actual  loom  analysis  shows  1,412  warp 
ends  on  a  reed  40  mches  wide.  The  warp  is  two-ply  No.  30  worsted 
yarn,  and  the  weft  is  single-ply  worsted  yam  No.  26,  There  are  38 
picks  to  the  mch. 


652 


\ 


KEPOKT  OF  TAKIFF  BOABD  ON^SCHEDULE  K. 


BEPOBT  OF  TAKIFF  BOARD   ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


653 


Amerimn  miUs, — ^It  requires  three-tenths  of  a  pound  of  yam  stock 
to  produce  a  yard  of  the  cloth  described.  The  average  cost  of  the 
stock  per  pound  is  $0,717,  making  a  total  stock  cost  per  yard  of 
finished  cloth  of  $0,215, 

This  cloth  is  commonly  made  in  the  United  States  in  very  large 
mills,  and  in  these  the  conversion  cost — ^from  yarn  to  finished  cloth — 
is  about  8  cents;  and  of  that  amount  $0,052  is  for  labor.  This  makes 
a  total  cloth  cost  of  $0,295. 

Taking  all  of  the  cost  secured  by  the  board,  from  mills  of  all  sizes, 
the  average  conversion  cost  is  11.1  cents  per  yard. 

The  weaver's  rate  on  this  sample  ranges  from  1.3  cents  to  3  cents 
peryard. 

English  miUs, — Our  figures  show  cost  on  tliis  fabric  in  England  to 
be  as  follows: 

The  stock  described  as  entering  into  this  cloth  is  taken  at  a  cost  of 
37.8  cents  per  poxmd.  Three-tenths  of  a  pound  is  required  to  make 
a  yard  of  cloth;  therefore  the  stock  cost  is  1 1.34  cents  per  yard.  The 
conversion  cost  is  4.01  cents  per  yard,  making  a  total  cost  of  $0.1535 
peryard  of  finished  cloth. 

The  EngHsh  weaving  rate  is  0.68  of  a  cent  per  yard.  It  is  two-loom 
work,  and  on  Tappet  150-pick  looms  a  weaver  will  produce  282 
yards  per  loom  per  week  of  55i  hours. 

Foreign  weaving  rates, — The  weaving  rate  on  this  sample  at  Rou- 
baix,  France,  was  found  to  be  0.829  of  a  cent  per  yard.  It  is  two- 
loom  work,  and  a  weaver  willproduce  109  yards  per  day. 

This  cloth  is  made  in  the  ulauchau  district  in  Germany,  and  the 
weaver's  rate  is  0.87  of  a  cent  per  yard.  It  is  two-loom  work,  and  a 
weaver  will  produce  109.3  yards  per  day  and  earn  95  cents. 

Sample  No.  2. 

Fancy  cotton  worsted,  30  inches  wide  and  weighing  6.7  ounces  to 
the  yard:  The  actual  loom  analysis  shows  1,519  warp  ends  on  a  reed 
width  of  33  inches.  The  warp  is  all  cotton;  1,261  tlireads  of  10/30, 
194  threads  of  2/14,  and  64  threads  of  2/50.  There  are  42  picks  or 
weft  threads  to  the  inch;  one-half  of  these  are  cotton  2/24;  one-half, 
or  21  picks,  are  worsted  yam  No.  16,  single  ply.  The  stock  material 
is  dyed  in  the  yam. 

Amerimn  mills, — It  requires  0.436  of  a  pound  of  yam  material  of 
the  kind  described  to  produce  a  }■  ard  of  this  cloth.  The  stock  mate- 
rial cost  is  $0,197  per  yard. 

From  our  figures  tlie  American  conversion  cost  from  yarn  to  fin- 
ished cloth  on  this  fabric  may  be  taken  as  8.3  cents,  making  a  total 
cost  of  $0.28  per  yard.     The  labor  cost  is  $0,058. 

The  weaver's  rate  in  the  raw  is  1.89  cents  to  2  cents  per  yard,  and 
the  weave-room  expense  is  3.8  cents  per  finished  yard. 

English  miUs, — Our  figures  show  cost  on  this  fabric  in  England  to 
be  as  follows: 

The  stock  material  is  taken  at  a  cost  of  18.2  cents  per  yard  of  fin- 
ished cloth.  The  conversion  or  manufacturing  cost  is  4.15  cents  per 
yard,  making  a  total  cost  of  $0,224  per  yard  on  this  sample. 

The  weaver's  rate  is  0.942  of  a  cent  per  yard  in  the  raw.  It  ia 
two-loom  work,  looms  of  the  Dobby  type  being  used,  and  on  160- 
pick  looms  a  weaver  will  produce  2*22  yards  per  loom  per  week. 


' 


French  weaving  rates. — The  weaver's  rate  on  this  sample  in  Rou- 
baix,  France,  is  1.5  cents  per  yard.  It  is  two-loom  work,  and  on  two 
looms  a  weaver  will  produce  66  yards  per  day  of  10  hours. 

Sample  No,  3, 

Brilliantine,  42  inches  wide  and  weighing  3.7  ounces  to  the  yard: 
The  actual  loom  analysis  shows  2,772  warp  ends  of  yarn  dyed  cotton, 
single,  No.  45,  on  a  reed  width  of  48  inches.  The  weft  is  one-ply 
worsted  yam  No.  28,  and  there  are  59  picks  to  the  inch. 

American  miUs, — It  requires  0.252  of  a  pound  of  yam  material  to 
produce  a  yard  of  this  cloth.  The  average  cost  of  the  stock  described 
IS  $0,632  per  pound,  the  total  stock  cost  per  yard  of  the  finished  goods 
being  $0,159. 

From  our  figures  the  American  conversion  cost  from  yam  to  fin- 
ished cloth  on  tliis  fabric  may  be  taken  as  8.9  cents  per  yard,  making 
a  total  cloth  cost  of  $0,248  per  yard.  There  is  a  very  wide  range  of 
conversion  costs  on  this  cloth,  some  very  large  mills  being  able  to 
produce  it  for  several  cents  less  per  yard,  m  fact,  having  a  conversion 
cost  sUghtly  below  7  cepts  per  yard.  This,  however,  can  take  place 
only  in  the  largest  estabUshments,  the  cost  of  8.9  cents,  as  given 
above,  being  much  fairer  to  American  mills  as  such. 

The  labor  cost  is  5  cents  per  yard,  and  the  weave-room  expense  is 
3  cents  per  yard. 

The  two-loom  weaving  rate  on  this  sample  ranges  from  1.9  cents  to 
3  cents  per  yard,  the  latter  being  more  common.  It  is  usually  woven 
by  women,  who  sometimes  tend  four  or  five  looms;  occasionally  by 
men,  who  tend  eight  looms.  The  1 .9  cent  rate  referred  to  above  is  for 
four-loom  work,  on  looms  speeded  to  128  picks  per  minute,  and  a 
woman  will  ordinarily  produce  25  to  30  yards  per  loom  per  day. 
There  are  instances  of  men  running  eight  122-pick  looms  on  tliis  ma- 
terial, and  receiving  the  rate  of  0.92  of  a  cent  a  yard;  also  of  women 
running  five  looms  of  145  picks  per  minute  at  the  rate  of  1.17  cents  per 
yard.  Of  course  the  increased  output  protects  the  earnings  of  the 
weaver  working  at  these  low  rates. 

Enalish  mills. — Our  figures  show  cost  on  this  fabric  in  England  to  be 
as  follows: 

The  cost  of  the  yam  material  described  as  entering  into  this  cloth 
is  taken  at  $0,409  per  pound,  and  as  0.252  of  a  pound  is  required  to 
produce  a  yard  of  cloth  the  yarn  stock  cost  is  $0,103  per  yard.  The 
conversion  cost  is  4.88  cents  per  yard,  making  the  totalcost  of  $0.1518 
per  yard  of  cloth. 

The  weaver's  rate  for  two-loom  work  is  1.342  cents  per  yard,  and  the 
total  weave  room  expense  is  2.114  cents  per  yard.  It  is  two-loom 
work,  and  on  Tappet  155-pick  looms  a  weaver  will  produce  160  yards 
per  loom  per  week,  assunung  a  65  per  cent  efiiciency. 

Foreign  weaving  rates. — The  weaver's  rate  on  tliis  sample  inRoubaix, 
France,  is  1 .5  cents  per  yard.  It  is  two-loom  work,  and  on  two  loonas 
a  weaver  will  produce  64  yards  in  a  day  of  10  hours. 

In  Germany  the  weaver^s  rate  on  tliis  sample  was  found  to  be,  in  the 
Glauchau-Meerane  district,  1.3  cents  per  yard  for  two-loom  work. 
Here  a  weaver  will  ordinarily  produce  65  yards  in  a  10-hour  day. 


654 


BEPOBT  OF  TAEIFF  BOAKD  ON  SOHEDULB  K, 

Scmiple  No,  4- 


BEPOKT  OF  TABIFF  BOAKD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


655 


Women's  cotton  warp  sacking,  54  mthes  wide,  weigliing  8.5  oimcee 
to  the  yard :  The  actual  loom  analysis  shows  3,000  warp  ends  of  single 
24-cotton  yam.  The  weft  is  two  and  one-fourth  run  wool  shoddy, 
and  there  are  33  picks  to  the  inch. 

American  wiZfe. — The  average  cost  of  the  j^am  material  per  pound 
is  S0.264,  and  the  stock  material  for  a  yard  ol  cloth  costs  $0,217. 

From  our  figures  the  American  conversion  cost — from  yam  to  fin- 
ished cloth — on  this  fabric  may  be  taken  as  10.106,  mating  a  total 
cloth  cost  of  10.323  per  vard. 

The  labor  in  a  yard  of  cloth  costs  6.2  cents;  the  weave-room  expense 
is  3.65  cents  per  yard. 

The  weaver's  rate  per  yard  is  3  cents  as  a  two-loom  rate. 

English  miUs. — Our  figures  show  the  cost  in  England  on  this  fabric 
to  be  as  follows: 

The  cost  of  the  yam  material  for  a  yard  of  this  cloth  is  taken  as 
$0.1146.  The  conversion  cost  is  6.5  cents,  making  a  total  cloth  cost 
of  SO.  1796  per  yard. 

The  weaving  rate  for  two-loom  work  is  0.88  of  a  cent  per  yard.  It 
is  two-loom  work  and  on  Tappet  145-pick  looms  a  weaver  wifl  produce 
244  yards  per  loom  per  week  of  55J  hours. 

Foreign  weaving^  rates.— Tha  two-loom  rate  on  this  sample  in 
Eoubaix,  France,  is  0.88  of  a  cent  per  yard.  A  weaver  ynH  produce 
90  yards  in  10  hours,  or  540  yards  per  week  of  60  hours. 

Sample  No.  5. 

« 

All  m^ool  batiste,  35  inches  wide,  weighing  2.6  ounces  to  the 
yard.  The  actual  loom  analysis  shows  2,262  warp  ends  on  a  reed 
width  of  42  inches.  The  warp  is  single  45  worsted  yam,  and  the  weft 
is  single  65  worsted  yam.     There  are  64  picks  to  the  inch. 

American  miUs.^Tlie  cost  of  the  yarn  material  used  was  $1,106 
per  pound,  and  0.183  of  a  pound  of  yarn  material  is  required  to  pro- 
duce a  yard  of  the  cloth;  the  yarn  material  cost  for  a  yard  of  goods  is 
therefore  S0.219. 

From  our  figures  the  American  conversion  cost  from  yam  to 
finished  cloth  on  this  fabric  may  be  taken  as  11.8  cents  per  yard, 
making  a  total  cost  of  $0,337  per  yard.  There  is  a  wide  range  of 
conversion  costs  on  this  sample,  some  large  mills  being  able  to  make 
it  for  several  cents  less  than  the  amount  indicated  above,  in  fact, 
having  a  conversion  cost  close  to  7  cents  per  yard.  This,  however, 
could  occur  only  in  the  largest  establishments,  and  the  cost  in  fairly 
rewesentative  mills  is  11.8  cents,  as  stated  above. 

Taking  tliis  total  conversion  cost  of  11.8  cents,  it  is  found  to  con- 
tain 7.4  cents  per  yard  labor  cost,  and  an  average  weave-room  expense 
of  4  cents  per  yard. 

The  weaver's  rate  per  yard  in  the  raw  is  difficult  to  determine,  since 
the  methods  of  weaving  differ  verv  materially.  Three  of  the  establish- 
ments reporting  weave  this  cloth  as  two  loom  work,  and  pay  from 
3.65  cents  to  4.2  cents  per  yard  in  the  raw,  3.7  c^nts  being  the  repre- 
sentative two-loom  rate,  and  the  one  which  for  comparison  with 
foreign  costs  should  be  taken.  It  happens,  however,  that  in  one 
establishment  this  cloth  is  put  on  four,  five,  and  even  six  looms; 


f 


women  operating  four  and  five  looms,  usually  four,  while  men  operate 
six  looms;  the  rate  in  such  cases  is  1.56  cents  per  yard.  There  are  no 
foreign  figures  which  are  comparable  with  this  method  of  production. 

English  mills. — Our  figures  show  cost  on  this  fabric  in  England  to 
be  as  follows: 

Talving  the  yam  material  as  reported  at  $0,781  per  pound,  and 
taking  0.183  of  a  pound  as  the  amount  required  to  produce  a  yard 
of  the  cloth,  the  total  stock  material  cost  for  a  finished  yard  is  $0,143. 
The  manufacturing  or  conversion  cost  is  5.56  cents,  making  a  total 
cost  of  $0.1986  per  yard. 

The  weaver's  rate  is  1.43  cents  per  yard  for  two-loom  work.  It  is 
woven  in  England  on  Tappet  155-pick  looms  with  a  productive 
efiiciency  of  70  per  cent,  the  weaver  producing  155  yards  per  loom 
per  week  of  55  J  hours. 

French  mills. — Our  figures  show  a  cost  on  this  fabric  in  France  to  be 
as  follows: 

The  yarn  material  cost  is  $0.1607  per  yard  of  finished  cloth.  The 
manufacturing  or  conversion  cost  is  6.54  cents  per  yard,  making  a 
total  cost  of  $0.2261  per  yard  of  finished  cloth. 

The  weaver's  rate  is  1 .5  cents  per  yard  in  the  raw.  It  is  two-loom 
work,  and  from  60  to  65  yards  are  xisually  produced  by  a  weaver  in  a 
day. 

German  weaving  rates. — The  only  German  cloth  centers  that  make 
a  specialty  of  cloths  of  this  kind  are  Gera  and  the  Glauchau-Meerane 
district.  In  Gera  the  weavers'  rate  is  1 .349  cents  per  yard,  and  in 
Glauchau  the  rate  is  1.517  cents  per  yard.  In  both  places  it  is  two- 
loom  work,  and  a  weaver  will  produce  from  70  to  73  yards,  or  from 
35  to  37  yards  per  loom  per  day. 

Sample  No.  6. 

AU-wool  Panama.  42  inches  wide,  weighing  4.7  ounces  to  the 
yard:  The  actual  loom  analysis  shows  2,476  warp  ends  of  2-ply 
worsted  yarn  No.  63  on  a  reed  width  of  47  inches.  T\iq  weft  is  single- 
worsted  yarn  No.  33,  and  there  are  56  picks  to  the  inch.  It  is  piece 
dyed. 

American  miUs. — ^The  average  cost  of  the  yarn  stock  described  is 
$1.03  per  pound,  and  0.311  of  a  pound  of  yarn  material  is  required  to 
produce  a  yard  of  the  cloth;  the  stock  cost  per  yard  of  cloth  is,  there- 
fore, $0.32. 

From  our  figures  the  American  conversion  cost — from  yarn  to  fin- 
ished cloth— on  this  fabric  may  be  taken  as  12.7  cents  per  yard,  making 
a  total  cost  of  $0,447  per  yard  of  cloth.  Of  this  12.7  cents  conversion 
cost,  7.8  cents  is  labor  cost.  The  weave-room  expense  is  4.1  cents 
per  yard. 

The  weaver's  rate  per  yard  ranges  from  2.5  cents  to  4  cents  per 
yard.     It  is  two-loom  work. 

English  miUs.—OuT  figures  show  cost  on  this  fabric  in  England  to 
be  as  follows: 

The  stock  material  taken  at  $0.74  per  pound  gives  a  stock  cost  of 
$0.23  per  yard.  The  conversion  cost  is  5.72  cents  per  yard,  making 
a  total  cloth  cost  of  $0.2872  per  yard. 

The  weave-room  expense  is  1.6  cents  and  the  weaver's  rate  is  1.16 
cents  per  yard  in  the  raw.    It  is  two-loom  work,  and  on  Tappet 


656 


BEPOKT  OF  TAEIFF  BOABD  OF  SCHEDULE   K. 


S^^i'?=™^'  'T*''  */"  P*'  '^^*-  efficiency  assumed,  a  weaver  wiU 
produce  175  yards  per  loom  per  week  of  65i  hours. 

jPbm<7»  weqmng  rates.— The  weaver's  rate  on  this  sample  in  Rou- 
baix,  h  ranee,  18 1.9  cents  per  yard.  It  is  two-loom  work,  and  a  weaver 
wiJJ  produce  50  yards  on  two  looms  in  a  day  of  10  hours. 

cinaliv  nroduLV1t^*?  £«?'  ^^'^"'Y'  ^¥"  tl^f  e  goods  are  prin- 
dpauy  proauced,  is  1.4  cents  per  yard.    It  is  two-loom  work. 

Sample  No.  7. 

^s^^'^^i  ^f^\^\  ^*  '°'■^''^  >1^'  weighing  3.7  ounces  to  the 
yard.    Ihe  actual  loom  analysis  shows  2,990  warp  ends  of  single- 

r^i^v,^"?  ^''-.^S  ^"^  *^^^*^  ^'^^^  "*  52  inchei.    The  weft  S  a 

8m|le-thread  worsted  yam  No.  62,  and  there  are  72  picks  to  the  inch! 

Amenean  miOs.-lt  requires  0.25  of  a  pound  of  the  yam  described 

ma^tlriil  rt^Z\^  ^'"'^  "'  ^J^'"  '^'?^^-     "^^^  r^'-'^«  «<^^  oTsucTstock 

;  /5f"?  fi"""  ^^/^  the  American  conversion  cost— from  yam  to  fin- 
Mhed  cloth—on  this  fabric  may  be  taken  as  13.2  cents  per  yard,  making 
a  total  cloth  cost  of  $0,438  per  yard.  ,x"»iujig 

S-JcenSer'^yltd  ^'^  "^''^^  ''^'"  ^""^  '^^  *^^  weave-room  expense  is 

m  weaver's  rate  per  yard  in  the  raw  is  3.8  cents, 
to  b^M  foUow  •      "**        "^  ^^^^  *^^  "^^^  *"^  ^^^  ^^^^'^  "^  England 

of  «T^®  *"'!'  **'  *^^  ^f  "i  material  being  taken  at  $0.7808  per  pound,  the 
stock  cost  per  yard  of  cloth  is  $0.1952.  The  converaion  cost  is  6.14 
cents,  making  a  total  cloth  cost  of  $0.2566  per  yard 

rate  it  TIT^T""  ^^^T  ^J'^  cents  per  yard  and  the  weaver's 
TinnPtil^  Tl-^P*"^  ^^^'^  ""  ^^"^  'r-  ^,*  '^  t^o-loom  work,  and  on 
weerof  55*C      °^  *  ^^^^^"^        produce  140  yards  per  loom  per 

nefv^^i^'TT'^'^V'"'^  weaver's  rate  on  this  sample  is  1.9  cents 
per  yard  m  Roubaix,  France.  It  is  two-loom  work,  knd  the  usual 
output  is  44  yards  per  day  of  10  hours. 

of  (V^Tlfi  '10*7  '*°**^^  ^"^Pi^  "V*^**  Glauchau-Meerane  district 
of  Germany  is  1.197  cents  per  yard.  It  is  two-loom  work,  and  on  the 
speedier  looms  of  this  distnct  a  weaver  wiU  produce  70  yaidL  per  day 

Sample  No.  8. 

v*^?  Tt""'^  homespun,  54  inches  wide,  weighing  8.2  ounces  to  the 
yard.  Ihe  actual  loom  analysis  shows  1,890  warp  ends  of  4-ran  vara 

doth '^Thrw'^.  -^  f  '^''^'^'  ^'^'^^'^  t''  S4  inches  in  theXffl 
Cloth,     rhe  weft  IS  4-run  yam,  and  there  are  26  picks  to  the  inch. 

a  in^^^f'^T^^  '^""""^  ^-^^^  «*  *  pound  of  yam  to  produce 
«n\o  L  l'''*'*^•  •  ^®  *''?^^  •=°^*  «f  tJ>«  stock  matenal  was 

$0^9  per  pound,  making  a  total  stock  cost  of  $0,387  per  yard. 

fij  w  7^  figures  the  American  conversion  cosfr-from  yam  to 
finished  cloth--on  this  fabric  may  be  taken  as  $0,133  per  vard 

SsTer  vanf  itl  ''"^*  «^  ^^'^^V  Jard.  The  labor  J^st  ffi 
cents  per  yard,  the  weave-room  cost  is  4.4  cents  per  yard. 


BEPORT  OF   TARIFF   BOARD   ON   SCHEDULE  X. 


657 


ip 


Tho  weaver's  rate  is  3.9  cents  per  yard  in  the  raw.  It  is  two-loom 
Vork,  and  on  90-pick  looms  an  American  weaver  will  produce,  with- 
out extraordinary  stoppages  or  delays,  45  yards  per  loom  per  day. 

English  miUs.—Om  figures  show  the  cost  in  England  on  this  fabric 
to  be  as  follows: 

The  yarn  cost  per  yard  of  cloth  is  $0,273;  the  conversion  cost  is 
6.61  cents,  making  a  total  cloth  cost  of  $0.3391. 

It  is  two-loom  work,  and  on  Tappet  145-pick  looms  a  weaver  will 
produce  307  yards  per  loom  per  week  of  55J  hours. 

Sample  No.  9. 

Woolen  tweed,  56  inches  wide,  weighing  12.2  ounces  to  the  yard: 
The  actual  loom  analysis  shows  980  warp  ends;  the  reed  width  is  70 
mches,  shrmking  to  56  inches  in  the.  finished  cloth.  There  are  816 
'^arp  ends  of  3-run  doubled  and  twisted  woolen  yam;  164  warp 
ends  are  of  2/60  and  2/48  worsted  yarns  twisted  together.  The  wefi 
13  of  two-ply  three-run  woolen  yarn,  doubled  and  twisted,  and  there 
are  16  picks  to  the  inch. 

American  inills.— The  average  stock  cost  per  pound  was  $0,682, 
and  0.92  of  a  pound  of  stock  material  is  required  to  produce  a  yard 
of  the  finished  cloth.  There  was  therefore  a  total  stock  cost  of 
$0,627  per  yard. 

From  our  figures,  the  American  conversion  cost— from  yam  to 
famshed  cloth— on  tins  fabric  may  be  taken  as  $0,145,  making  a 
total  cloth  cost  of  $0,772  per  yard.  Of  this  conversion  cost,  10.7 
cents  per  yard  was  for  labor.  The  weaving  expense  was  4.5  cents 
per  yard. 

The  weaver's  rate  per  yard  in  the  raw  on  one-loom  work  ranges 
from  3.20  cents  to  4.40  cents,  the  typical  rate  being  3.75  cents.  A 
two-loom  rate  of  2.7  cents  per  yard  appears  in  two  cases. 

English  mills.— Our  figures  show  the  cost  in  England  on  this  fabric 
to. be  as  follows: 

The  average  cost  of  the  stock  material  described  is  $0.3744  per 
pound,  and  as  0.92  of  a  pound  is  required  for  a  yard  of  cloth,  the 
total  stock  cost  is  $0.3444  per  yard.  The  conversion  cost  is  6.89 
cents  per  yard,  making  a  total  cloth  cost  of  $0.4133  per  yard. 

ihe  English  weaver^s  rate  is  1.8  cents  per  yard  in  the  raw.  It  Is 
one-loom  work,  and  on  an  80-pick  loom  a  weaver  will  produce  300 
yards  m  a  week  of  SSJ  hours,  and  eam  $5.40. 

Sample  A'o.  10. 

Women's  all-wool  blue  serge,  54  inches  wide  and  weighing  7  5 
ounces  to  the  yard:  The  actual  loom  analysis  shows  2,904  warp  ends 
of  two-ply  No.  36  worsted  yarn  on  a  reed  width  of  60  inches,  sWnk- 
mg  to  54  inches  m  the  fimshed  cloth.  The  weft  is  single  No  28 
worsted  yarn,  and  there  are  50  picks  to  tlie  inch.     It  is  piece  dyed 

Ama%canmilh.—li  requires  0.522  of  a  pound  of  yarn  to  produce 
a  yard  of  finished  cloth.  The  average  stock  cost  of  the  material 
described  above  is  $0,823  per  pound,  making  a  total  stock  cost  of 
$0.43  per  yard  of  cloth. 

From  our  figures  the  American  conversion  cost  from  yarn  to 
imislied  cloth  on  tins  fabric  may  be  taken  as  16.5  cents  per  yard,  mak- 


658 


REPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


i^  a  total  cloth  cost  of  $0,595  per  yard.     The  labor  cost  is  8.8  cents 
pCTvara.     ijie  weave-room  expense  is  4.6  cents  per  yard 

The  weaver  s  rate  per  yard  in  the  raw  ia  3.8  cenU  in  a  tv^ical  mill 
It  M  two-loom  work,  and  on  120-pick  looms  a  weaver  wilT  prod^ 
without  unusual  delays,  32  yards  per  loom  per  da^-.  ^  ' 

bell^So™  •  ^^™*^  ^^"^^  *"*^*  "°         ^*^"''  "^  England  to 

Yarn  stock  per  yard  of  doth,  $0,268,  conversion  cost,  6.98  centa 

per  yard,  makmg  a  total  cloth  cost  of  $0.3378  per  yard  of  finished 

^00  (Is. 

The  weaver's  rate  in  the  raw  is  1 .2  cents  per  yard.  It  is  two-loom 
work,  and  on  lappet  145-pick  looms  a  weaver  will  produce  162 
yards  per  loom  per  week  of  55i  hours.  prociuce  lOZ 

^Rm'VtZ'f.^T  ^T'^'  "^^^  figures  on  this  sample  range  from 
38.02  cents  to  42.4  cents  per  yard.  The  conversion  cost  is  8  14 
cente  and  the  yarn  cost  29.88  cents  in  the  lowest  mill,  maldn^  a 
tot^l  cloth  cost  of  $0.3802  m  the  lowest  cost  per  finisheTyard  ' 

nit!  7*"^^^ ?  ^f  ^  ^f  Roubaix,  France,  on  tfiis  sample  is  1.482  cents 
per  yard.  It  is  two-loom  work,  and  a  weaver  will  produce  65  yards 
on  two  looms  m  10  houre.  J    ^ 

Genmnwmvim  mtes,--The  principal  center  for  tlie  production  of 
these  goods  in  Germany  m  Glauchau,  and  the  weaver's  rate  is  1  66 
cents  per  yard  m  the  raw.  It  is  two-loom  work,  and  a  weaver  wiH 
produce  60  yards  m  a  day  of  10  houi-s  and  earn  $1. 

Sample  No.  11, 

to^hf  tlrKr*'^'''^  overcoating,  55  inches  wide,  weighing  22  ounces 
to  ttie  yard.  Ihe  actual  loom  analvsis  shows  1,140  warp  ends  of  1- 
nm  woolen  yarn  on  a  reed  width  of  68  inches.  The  weft  is  of  IJ-nm 
woolen  yarn,  and  there  are  24  picks  to  the  inch. 

Amencan  mUls,~It  requires  1.67  pounds  of  the  yarn  described 
above  to  produce  a  yard  of  the  finished  cloth.  The  average  costof 
the  yarn  stock  per  pound  is  $0,422,  making  a  total  stock  cost  of  $0,705 
per  yard. 

From  our  figures  the  American  conversion  cost— from  varn  to 
luuslied  yard— on  this  fabric  may  be  taken  as  $0,165  per  vard  "mafcinir 
a  total  cloth  cost  of  $0,870  per  yard.  ^     '       '  °""^S 

«^3!lf  ^''.H'n""^*  }^  ^  y*'*^  f  ^°  •=®''*«-    The  average  weaving-room 
expense  is  5.9  cents  per  yard.  s       "• 

work^Zr If  t  'o^''  ^(  V^*^  ^  ^^  '■''^  ^..f -^  '^'''^t^-     It  is  one-loom 
work,  and  on  a  95;pick  loom  a  weaver  will  produce,  without  extra- 

ordinary^delay^waitmg  for  yam  or  unusual  stoppages,  35  yards  per 

i'n^ZM  wiZfe.—Our  figures  show  the  conversion  cost  in  England 
on  this  fabnc  to  be  8.1  cents  per  yard.  The  weave-room  expense  is 
«5.1b  cents  per  yard.  ^ 

I^e  weWs  rate  per  yard  in  the  raw  is  2.26  cents.    It  is  one-loom 

ZTr  TrTcf?  *  75-pick  loom  a  weaver  will  produce  200  yards  in  a 
week  of  55i  hours,  and  earn  $4.52.  j     u«  m  a 

Fm-eign  wmmng  rates^-^The  weaver's  rate  on  this  sample  in 
Roubaix,  France  IS  2.29  cents  per  yard.  It  is  one-loom  wort,  and 
a  weaver  will  produce  from  38  to  40  yards  in  a  day  of  10  hours. ' 


I 


EEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  dS"  SCHEDULE  K. 


659 


J 

I 

i 

t 


Weaver's  rates  on  this  sample  were  secured  from  five  towns  in 
Germany,  as  follows: 

The  rate  at  Aachen  is  3.7  cents  per  yard  on  slow  looms.  At 
Cottbus  the  rate  is  3.29  cents  per  yard.  At  both  Spermberg  and 
Luckenwaide  the  rate  is  2.47  cents  per  yard.  At  Forst  the  rate  is 
2.67  cents  a  yard. 

This  material  is  almost  universally  woven  on  slow  looms,  and  while 
at  Aachen  and  Forst  the  rate  is  a  httle  lower  on  faster  looms,  a  weaver 
can  not  produce  enough  more  to  make  his  earnings  any  greater  on 
the  speedier  looms.  The  trouble  is  that  the  yarn  is  so  large  and  the 
shuttles  run  out  so  often  that  a  slow  loom  is  just  as  efficient  as  a 
speedier  one;  in  other  words,  a  slow  loom  will  empty  the  shuttles  as 
fast  as  a  weaver  can  supply  them.  It  was  stated  in  Forst,  for 
instance,  that  a  spool  would  hold  only  200  picks  of  this  thread,  and 
that  from  3,000  to  3,500  picks  an  hour  is  all  that  a  weaver  can  possibly 
produce^  so  that  30  yards  per  day  would  be  about  the  limit  of  possible 
production,  no  matter  what  the  theoretic  speed  of  the  loom. 

Sample  No,  12. 

Women's  worsted  serge,  piece  dyed,  55  inches  wide,  weighing  9 
ounces  to  the  finished  yard.  The  actual  loom  analysis  shows  3,100 
warp  ends  on  a  reed  width  of  62  inches.  The  warp  is  of  2-ply 
worsted  yam  No.  33,  the  weft  is  single  24s.  There  are  56  picks  to 
the  inch. 

Amencan  mills. — It  requires  0.645  of  a  pound  of  yarn  material  to 
produce  a  yard  of  tlus  cloth.  The  average  cost  of  the  yam  is  $0.7463 
per  pound;  hence  the  stock  material  for  a  yard  of  cloth  costs  $0,481. 

From  our  figures  the  American  conversion  cost — fi*om  yam  to  fin- 
ished cloth — on  this  fabric  may  be  taken  as  $0,168  per  yard,  making 
a  total  cloth  cost  of  $0,649  per  yard.  Of  the  conveision  cost,  9.5 
cents  are  for  labor*. 

The  weaver's  rate  is  4  cents  per  yard  in  the  raw  for  two-loom  work. 

English  miUs. — Our  figures  show  the  cost  in  England  on  this  fabric 
to  be  as  follows: 

The  cost  of  the  yarn  material  per  yard  of  cloth  is  $0.2674;  the  con- 
version cost  is  7.77  cents  per  yard,  making  a  total  cloth  cost  of 
$0.3451  per  yard. 

The  weaver's  rate  is  1.6  cents  per  yard  in  the  raw  for  two  loom  work 
and  a  weaver  will  produce  155  yards  per  loom  per  week  of  55^  hours! 

French  mills.— Our  figures  show  the  cost  in  France  on  tliis  fabric  to 
be  as  follows: 

The  yarn  material  necessary  to  produce  a  yard  of  cloth  costs 
$0.2780;  the  conversion  cost  is  8.3  cents  per  yard;  makmg  a  total 
cloth  cost  of  $0,361  per  yard  of  finislied  cloth. 

The  weaving  expense,  or  all  labor  cost  from  the  finished  yam  up  to 
the  dyeing  and  finishing  of  the  woven  goods,  is  3.542  cents  per  yard, 
the  dyemg  and  finishing  cost  is  4.858  cents  per  yard. 

Sample  No.  13. 

Men's  fancy  woolen  suiting,  50  inches  wide,  weighing  16  ounces  to 
the  yard :  The  actual  loom  analysis  shows  2,400  warp  ends ;  2,200  warp 
ends  are  of  cotton  and  shoddy  mixed,  and  spun  to  a  16  cut  yam;  200 
ends  are  cotton  single  16s.    The  reed  width  is  04  inches,  shriiddng  to 


660 


BEPOBT  OF  TAKIPF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


'i 


56  inches  m  the  finished  cloth.  The  weft  is  cotton  and  wool  sho.1,1^ 
spun  to. 14 J  cut  yarn,  and  there  are  32  picks  to  the  Leh  ^' 

Amenean  mtOs.—It  requires  1.1  pou£ds  of  the  vam  Hp«.riK^  * 
produce  a  vard  of  this  cloth.    The  arerase  stocfc  ool?«ri  ^^  ^ 
$0  254,  maW  a  total  stock  cost  of  $o  27^ peJya^Tffi^^^^^ 
finSn  ?Ti,  ^  .the  American  convSn^cSt-fr^^  1?^'^ 

mill  ia^o  1  ;  ^  ^%^  7f^;  ^®  I*"'"''  cost  in  a  typical  American 
miii  is  12.1  cents  per  finished  yard.  The  weave-mnm  ^^^Z:-n^ 
cents  per  yard.  weave-room  expense  is  7.5 

The  stock  yam  cost  per  yard  of  finished  cloth  is  «0  24fi     Tl,a 
SoSTerTa^"  '■''  *=*"*^  ^"^  ^"^'''  ^^'^  a  tfal  K';,osrof 

work'  rndTn'ar^™VV  1  '^'^'^  ^^'  ^'"'^  '?„*^«  ^*^-  I*  ^^  o^^e-loom 
week'of  55J  hoTrs     ^  '^  ''^"''^''  ^  P'°*^"«*  1^6  yards  per 

Sample  No.  I4. 
Fancy  woolen  overcoating,  55  inches  widp   wpiVV^m.^  lo  k 

whi5f/4««  =  '^^  n"f^  ^^^  '^'^^y^  slows  Tsl^la^-'enT'^ 

v^  S  rS  rd/i?"'^\r?^^?  y"™^P  ^"'l^  ^'^  4  A  woolen 
J!^"  „^  wJ^^  ^^^.'^  }%  ^^  '"''hes.  The  weft  is  li-run  woolen 
yam,  and  there  are  24  picks  to  the  inch  woolen 

Amenainmills.— It  requires   1.4   pounds   of  stock   material   «« 

sto.T^nlt°J/  ^  ?'*^"*=*  *  V'^  «f  fi'^^^d  clotk     The  avera^ 

Pyard  '^^       P""  P**""^'  '"''^8  *  *«*^  «*««>^  cost  of  |S 

ishf  d^oZnteaf^^r^Tak^eTa^T;^  ce^nls  nrvl^  *\^- 

t  KtSUta^i  *Xf  ^^'^     ^^iat^osron^^^^^ 

IS  ^.o  cenDs  per  yard.     Ihe  weave-room  expense  is  5.6  cents  npr  v«rrl 

woTk'  STn  oS'l'o  Pplf  r^  r  ''''  ^*"  ^  ^-^  -"^^  l"i'  --^oom 
worK,  ana  on  90  to  98  i<ick  looms  a  weaver  will  produce  withonf 
extraordinary  delays,  40  to  45  yanls  per  day.  P^°<1»««'  ''"thout 

beSSo^f*  "'■  ^^"^  ^^""^  *'°^*  '^'^  ^^  fal>ri«  ia  England  to 
1  7*'^"^^*''u  ^escribed  yams  at  a  cost  of  23.38  cents  per  pound  and 

costCr  vtd^s'^O  sTrV."'  ^  ^"^'^-"^  fi"'*?*^  clotCX  material 
cost  per  yard  is  f  0.3273.     The  conversion  cost  is  7.77  cents  per  vard 

woTk  and  on  aVs^n'^t  {""*  ""  *^^  '"^'^  ^n^  ««"*«      I*  ^  <»»e-loom 

Sample  No.  15. 

to^eTrd  W^dv«H'TK'  ^*/°t?'  ^^^'  ^-id  weighing  10  ounces 
J     A    ■'  P'**"*^  dyed:  The  actual  loom  analysis  shows2  180  wxm 

ends  of  2-ply  worsted(yamNo.25ona  reedwidth^ 66  iS/shriX^ 


BEPOBT  OP  TABIFF  BOABO  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


661 


I 


fco  54  inches  in  the  finished  cloth.  The  weft  is  also  2-ply  worsted  yam 
No.  25,  and  there  are  33  picks  to  the  inch. 

Aifrienmn  mills,— li  requires  0.702  of  a  pound  of  the  yam  material 
descnbed  above  to  produce  a  yard  of  the  finished  cloth.  The  average 
cost  of  such  yam  stock  per  pound  is  $0,867,  making:  a  total  yam  stock 
cost  of  $0  609. 

From  our  figures  the  American  conversion  cost  from  yarn  to 
fimshed  cloth  on  this  fabric  may  be  taken  as  19  cents  per  yard, 
making  a  total  cloth  cost  on  this  sample  of  $0,799.  The  labor  cost  is 
10.3  cents  per  yard  of  finished  cloth.  The  weave-room  expense  is  3.3 
cents. 

The  weaver's  rate  per  yard  in  the  raw  is  2.9  cents.  It  is  two-loom 
work,  and  on  120-pick  looms  a  weaver  will  ordmarily  produce  70 
yards  in  a  day  of  10  hours. 

Enalish  rrvitls, — Our  figures  show  cost  on  this  fabric  in  England  to  bo 
as  follows: 

The  yarn  stock  cost  per  yard  of  cloth  is  taken  as  $0.2801.  The 
conversion  cost  is  8.53  cents  per  yard,  making  a  total  cloth  cost  per 
yard  on  this  sample  of  $0.3654.  The  weave-room  expense  is  1.28 
cents  per  yard. 

The  weaver's  rate  in  the  raw  is  0.96  of  a  cent  per  yard.  It  is  two- 
loom  work,  and  on  Tappet  145-pick  looms  a  weaver  will  produce  217 
yards  per  loom  per  week  of  55|  hours. 

French  mills.— Om  figures  of  cost  on  this  sample  were  secured  from 
three  French- mills,  ranging  from  $0.36  to  $0.3806.  Detailed  costs 
were  furnished  only  by  the  mill  showing  the  lowest  cost.  The  yam 
stock  material  cost  $0.2734  per  yard,  conversion  cost  8.66  cents  per 
yard,  making  a  total  cost  of  $0.36  per  yard. 

The  weavmg  rate  in  French  mills  was  secured  through  channels 
other  than  the  above  and  found  to  be,  in  Roubaix,  France,  0.97  of  a 
cent  per  yard.  It  is  two-loom  work,  and  a  weaver  without  extraor- 
dinary delays  would  produce  100  yards  per  day  on  two  looms. 

German  weaving  rates.— The  weaver's  rates  on  this  sample  were 
secured  from  several  cloth  centers  in  Germany,  but  the  oidy  place 
where  it  is  commonly  made  as  two-loom  work  is  Gera.  There  the 
weaver's  rate  is  0.75  of  a  cent  a  yard,  and  a  weaver  will  produce  150 
yards  per  day.  In  other  German  cloth  centers  this  sample  is  pro- 
duced as  one-loom  work. 

Sample  No.  16. 

Covert  cloth  54  inches  wide,  weighing  11.5  ounces  to  the  yard: 
Ihe  actual  loom  analysis  shows  3,760  warp  ends  on  a  reed  width  of 
b«  incnes.  ihe  warp  is  5i  mn  woolen  yarn,  the  weft  is  of  5  mn 
woolen  yam,  and  there  are  42  picks  to  the  inch 

American  -mZZs.— It  requu-es  0.805  of  a  pound  of  yam  material  to 

"^^  A^  t/rfo^  ""^  ^^'^  ''^''^^\  "^^^  ^^^^^^^  ««st  of  the  stock  per 
pound  IS  $0,597,  makmg  a  total  stock  cost  of  $0.48  per  yard 

•  ^:^A^  ?^^  ^"^^F^^  \^  American  conversion  cost  from  yam  to  fin- 
ished  cloth  on  this  fabric  may  be  taken  as  21 .2  cents  per  yard,  making 
a  total  cloth  cost  of  $0,692  per  yard.  The  labor  cost  is  13.3  cente 
per  yard.     The  weave-room  expense  is  6.1  cents  per  yard 

The  weaver's  rate  is  4.3  cents  per  yard  on  two-loom  basis. 

hnglish  mills.— ^dur  figures  show  cost  on  this  fabric  m  England  to 
be  as  follows:  ^ 

32080°--H.  Doc.  342,  62-2,  vol  2 4 


i 


662 


EEPOBT  OP  TABIFP  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


Yam  material,  $0.3614  per  yard  of  cloth,  conversion  coat,  10.1107. 
matoig  a  total  cost  of  $0.4721  per  yard  of  finished  cloth. 

The  weaver's  rate  per  yard  is  1.267  cents  and  the  additional  weave- 
room  expense  IS  1.77  cents.    It  is  two-loom  work,  and  on  Tappet 

^f  ^."P.^T  ^^^™^  ^  weaver  will  produce  191  yards  per  loom  per  week 
of  551  hours.  ^  r  r 

Fordgn  weaving  ra^.— The  weaver's  rate  on  this  sample  in  Rou- 
baix,  France,  is  1.235  cents  per  yard.  It  is  two-loom  work,  and  on 
two  looms  a  weaver  wiU  produce  71  yards  of  cloth  m  10  houra  and 
earn  $u.oo. 

The  weavmg  rates  on  this  sample  were  secured  from  the  Gera  dis- 
tect  m  Germany,  which  is  the  principal  center  for  its  production. 
Ihe  two-loom  rate  is  1.935  cents,  and  a  weaver  will  produce  56  yards 
m  a  day  of  10  houra.  '^ 

At  Spermberg,  Germany,  the  one-loom  rate  is  3.187  cents  per  yard, 
and  a  weaver  working  three  shuttles  per  loom  wiU  produce  27  yards 
m  10  liours.  The  German  trade  name  of  this  cloth  is  women's  melton 
goods. 

Sample  No,  17. 

Women's  all-wool  sacking,  54  inches  wide,  weighing  10.5  ounces  to 
tne  yard:  The  actual  loom  analysis  shows  2,646  warp  ends  of  4-run 
woolen  yarn  on  a  reed  width  of  76  inches,  shrinkmg  to  54  inches  in 
the  hnished  cloth.  The  weft  is  also  4-run  woolen  yam,  and  there  are 
37  picks  to  the  mch.    It  is  piece  dyed. 

American  miUs.-^lt  requires  0.766  of  a  pound  of  yam  material  to 
produce  a  yard  of  this  cloth.  The  average  stock  cost  per  pound  is 
$0^11,  makii^  a  stock  cost  of  $0,468  per  yard  of  finished  cloth. 

From  our  figures,  the  American  conversion  cost— from  yam  to 
Imished  clotfi— on  this  fabric  may  be  taken  as  $0,212,  making  a  total 
cloth  cost  of  $0.68  per  yard.  The  labor  cost  m  a  yard  of  this  cloth  is 
11  cents.    The  weave  room  expense  is  5.6  cents  per  yard. 

The  weaver's  rate  per  yard  in  the  raw  is  3  cents  for  two-loom  work, 
and  5.5  cents  for  one-loom  work.  This  cloth  is  usually  woven  as 
two-loom  work  in  the  United  States,  and  a  weaver  on  100-pick 
looms  will  produce,  without  unusual  delays  for  yam,  or  other  con- 
tmgencies,  30  to  35  yards  per  loom  per  day. 

English  miZfe.— Our  figures  show  tlie  cost  in  England  on  this  fabric 
to  be  as  follows: 

The  stock  material  costs  $0.36  per  yard  of  finished  cloth.  The 
conversion  cost  is  $0.1067  cents  per  yard,  making  a  total  cloth  cost 
of  $0.4667  per  yard. 

The  weaver's  rate  per  yard  in  the  raw  is  1.3  cents  for  two-loom 
work,  and  on  Tappet  145-pick  looms,  assummg  a  60  per  cent  efficiency, 
a  weaver  will  produce  230  yards  per  loom  per  week  of  55i  hours. 
"Die  weave-room  expense  is  1.32  cents  per  yard,  including,  of  course, 
the  weaver's  rate. 

French  miZZs.— Our  figures  show  the  cost  in  France  on  this  fabric 
to  be  as  follows: 

The  yam  cost  is  $0.2858  per  yard;  the  conversion  cost  is  $0.1485, 
makmg  a  total  cost  of  $0.4343  per  yard. 

The  weave-room  expense  per  yard,  includmg  weaving  rate,  is  1.95 
cents.  The  weaver's  rate  is  1.147  cents  per  yard.  It  is  two-loom 
work,  and  on  two  looms  a  weaver  will  produce  85  yards  in  a  day. 


BEPOBT  OP  TAKIPP  BOAED  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


663 


German  weaving  rate. — ^The  weaver's  rate  per  yard  in  the  raw  in 
Gera,  Germany,  the  principal  center  for  this  class  of  goods,  is  2.13 
cents.  It  is  two-loom  work,  and  on  120-pick  looms  a  weaver  will 
produce  66  yards  per  day  of  10  hours. 

Sample  No.  18, 

Men's  fancy  woolen  suiting,  56  inches  wide,  weighing  12  ounces 
to  the  yard:  The  actual  loom  analysis  shows  1,680  warp  ends  on  a 
reed  width  of  68  inches.  Of  these,  1,500  ends  are  of  three-run  woolen 
yarn;  36  ends  are  one  and  one-half  run  woolen  yam;  144  ends  are 
silk,  single  No.  8.  The  weft  is  of  three  and  one-half  run  woolen  yam, 
and  there  are  34  picks  to  the  inch.  ^ 

American  mills. — The  analysis  shows  that  0.852  of  a  pound  of  the 
yarn  material,  as  described  above,  is  required  to  produce  a  yard  of 
the  finished  cloth.  The  average  cost  of  the  yam  stock  being  $0,574 
per  pound,  the  stock  cost  is  therefore  $0,489. 

From  our  figures  the  American  conversion  cost  from  yam  to  fiin- 
ished  cloth  on  this  fabric  may  be  taken  as  21.3  cents  per  yard,  making 
a  total  cloth  cost  of  $0,702  per  yard.  The  labor  cost  is  13  cents  per 
yard.     The  weave-room  expense  is  7  cents  per  yard. 

The  weaver's  rate  per  yard  in  the  raw  ranges  from  5.6  cents  to  6.8 
cents,  6.2  cents  being  the  usual  rate  and  the  one  here  taken  as  typical. 
It  is  one-loom  work,  and  on  a  100-pick  loom  a  weaver  will  ordinarily 
produce  from  35  to  38  yards  in  a  day. 

English  mills. — Our  f^ures  show  the  conversion  cost  from  yam  to 
finished  cloth  on  this  fabric  in  England  to  be  9.4  cents  per  yard. 

The  weaver's  rate  is  2.6  cents  per  yard  in  the  raw.  It  is  one-loom 
work,  and  on  a  75-pick  loom  a  weaver  will  produce  173  yards  in  a 
week  of  55^  hours  and  earn  $4.50. 

Foreign  weaving  rates. — In  Roubaix,  France,  the  weaver's  rate  on 
this  sample  is  3.35  cents  per  yard.  It  is  one-loom  work,  and  30 
yards  is  considered  a  good  output  in  a  day  of  10  hours. 

In  Germany  the  weaver's  rate  on  this  sample  was  ascertained  at 
Kirchberg  and  at  Forst.  At  Kirchberg,  on  slow  looms,  the  rate  was 
3.92  cents  per  yard,  and  a  weaver  would  produce  25  yards  in  10  hours. 
At  Forst  the  rate  was  3.15  cents,  and  a  good  weaver  would  produce 
33  yards  in  a  day  of  10  hours. 

Sample  Nt>.  19. 

Women's  all-wool  worsted  serge,  56  mches  wide,  weighmg  10 
ounces  to  the  yard :  The  actual  loom  analysis  shows  3,528  warp  ends 
of  two-ply  worsted  yam  No.  36.  The  weft  is  single  worsted  yarn  No. 
26.     There  are  55  picks  to  the  inch.     It  is  piece  dyed. 

American  mills. — It  requhes  0.652  of  a  pound  of  yam  to  produce 
a  yard  of  this  cloth.  The  average  cost  of  this  stock  was  $0,805,  mak- 
ing a  yam  material  cost  of  $0,525  per  yard  of  cloth. 

From  our  figures  the  American  conversion  cost  from  yam  to  fin- 
ished cloth  on  this  fabric  may  be  taken  as  21.5  cents  per  yard,  making 
a  total  cost  of  $0.74  per  yard  of  cloth.  The  labor  cost  is  1 1.9  cents 
per  yard.    The  weave-room  expense  is  5.1  cents  per  yard. 

The  weaver's  rate  ranges  from  3.25  cents  to  5.5  cents  per  yard  on 
two  looms,  4.1  cents  being  the  typical  rate. 


664 


BEPOET  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE   K. 


EEPOET  OF   TARIFF   BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


665 


III 


Englisl  miOs.—Om  figures  show  the  conversion  cost  from  yam  to 
limbed  cloth  on  this  fabric  to  be  $0,091  per  yard  in  Enc^Iand 

llie  weavei^s  rate  is  1 .44  cents  per  yard  in  the  raw.  It  is  two-loom 
work,  and  on  Tappet  145-pick  looms  a  weaver  will  produce  150  yards 
per  loom  per  week  of  55i  hours. 

Sample  No.  W, 

Women's  aJl-wool  broadcloth,  54  mches  wide,  weighing  9.3  ounces 
to  tiie  yard:  Ihe  actual  loom  analysis  shows  3,120  warp  ends  of  64- 
run  woolen  yam  on  a  reed  width  of  82  inch-s,  shrinking  to  54  inches  m 
the  hnished  cloth.  The  weft  is  5^  run  woolen  yam,  and  there  are  40 
picks  to  the  mch  m  the  raw,  fuUing  to  46  in  the  finished  cloth.  It  is 
piece  dyed. 

American  miUs.— The  mill  analysis  shows  that  0.812  of  a  pound  of 
yam  stock  is  required  to  produce  a  yard  of  the  finished  cloth.  The 
average  stock  cost  per  pound  is  $0,612,  making  a  total  stock  cost  per 
yard  of  finished  cloth  of  $0.50.  ^ 

From  our  figures,  the  American  conversion  cost—from  yam*  to 
imislied  cloth—on  this  fabric  may  be  taken  as  $0,216  per  yard, 
makmg  a  total  cloth  cost  of  $0,716  per  yard.  The  labor  cost  is  11 
cents  per  yard. 

The  weaver's  rate  on  two-loom  work  is  3  cents  per  yard. 
English  miU8,--Our  figures  show  the  cost  in  England  on  this  fabric 
to  be  as  follows : 

The  cost  of  the  yam  material  entering  into  this  cloth  is  taken  as 
$0,493  i>er  pound,  and  as  0.812  of  a  pound  is  required  to  produce  a 
yard  of  cloth,  the  yam  material  costs  $0.4003  per  yard.  The  con- 
version cost  is  $0.1034  per  yard,  making  a  total  clotfi  cost  of  $0.5037 
per  yard. 

The  weaver^  rate  is  1 .08  cents  per  yard  in  the  raw.  It  is  two-loom 
work,  and  on  Tappet  145-pick  looms  a  weaver  will  produce  198  yards 
per  loom  per  week  of  55i  hours,  a  65  per  cent  efficiency  being  assumed. 

I'arejffnweamng  rates,— The  weaver's  rate  on  this  sample  in 
Koubaix,I<  ranee,  is  1.2  cents  per  yard.  It  is  two-loom  work,  and  a 
weaver  will  produce  66  yards  in  a  day  of  1 0  hours. 

The  two-loom  rate  on  tliis  sample  in  Aachen,  Gemiany,  is  1.97 
cents  per  yard.  It  is  always  woven  by  women  on  "overpick"  looms, 
making  125  picks  to  the  minute.  A  woman  working  on  ttis  cloth  wm 
produce  32  yards  in  a  day  and  ©am  63  cents. 

Sample  No.  21, 

Fancy  woolen  overcoating,  54  inches  wide,  weighing  16  ounces  to 
tHe  yard:  Ihe  actual  loom  analysis  shows  2,380  warp  ends  of  2i 
run  woolen  yam  on  a  reed  width  of  68  inches,  shrinking  to  54  inches 
m  the  finished  cloth.  The  weft  is  of  2i  run  woolen  yam,  and  there 
are  38  picks  to  the  inch. 

Amencan  milk—It  requires  1.12  pounds  of  yam  material  to  pro- 
duce a  yard  of  finished  cloth.  The  average  stock  cost  per  pound  is 
$0^d7,  making  a  total  stock  cost  of  $0,512  per  yard. 

From  our  figures  the  American  conversion  cost— from  yam  to 
Imished  cloth— on  this  fabric  may  be  taken  m  $0,217  per  yard,  making 
a  total  cloth  cost  of  $0,729  per  yard.  The  labor  cost  is  13.4  cents  per 
yard;  the  weave-room  expense  is  8.2  cents  per  yard. 


The  weaver's  rate  is  7.6  cents  per  yard  in  the  raw.  It  is  one-loom 
work,  and  on  a  90-pick  loom  a  weaver  will,  without  extraordinary 
delays  or  waits  for  warj),  produce  33  yards  per  day  of  10  hours. 

English  mills. — Our  figures  show  the  cost  m  England  on  this  fabric 
to  be  as  follows : 

Taking  the  cost  of  a  pound  of  the  j^am  material  entering  into  this 
cloth  at  $0.3131,  and  1.12  pounds  bemg  necessary  to  produce  a  yard 
of  the  cloth,  the  stock  cost  per  yard  is  $0.3507.  The  conversion  cost 
is  8.9  cents  per  yard,  making  a  total  cloth  cost  of  $0.4397  per  yard. 

The  weaver's  rate  is  3.16  cents  per  yard  in  the  raw.  It  is  one^oom 
work,  and  a  weaver  will  produce  137  yards  on  a  75-pick  loom  in  a  week 
of  55^  hours. 

Sample  No.  22, 

Men's  blue  serge,  56  inches  wide  and  weighing  14  ounces  to  the  yard: 
The  actual  loom  analysis  shows  3,048  warp  ends  on  a  reed  width  of  63 
inches,  shrinking  to  56  inches  in  the  finished  cloth.  The  warp  yam 
is  two-ply  worsted  No.  24;  the  weft  is  single  No.  12.  There  are  44 
picks  to  the  inch.     It  is  piece  dyed. 

American  miUs. — It  requires  within  the  merest  fraction  of  a  pound 
of  yarn  material  to  produce  a  yard  of  this  cloth.  The  warp  yarn  costs 
an  average  of  $0.77  per  pound;  the  weft,  $0,645.  There  is  slightly 
more  weight  in  the  warp  than  in  the  weft;  but  this  is  so  slight  as  to 
be  negligible.  The  yarn  material  cost  for  a  yard  of  cloth  should  be 
taken  at  $0,672. 

From  our  figures  the  American  conversion  cost  from  yam  to  fin- 
ished cloth  may  be  taken  as  22.2  cents  per  yard,  making  a  total  cloth 
cost  of  $0,894  per  yard.  Analyzing  this  conversion  cost,  it  is  found 
to  contain  10.9  cents  as  a  labor  cost  per  yard.  The  weave  room 
expense  is  from  2.88  cents  to  4  cents  per  yard  of  finished  cloth. 

The  weaver's  rate  is  2.6  cents  per  yard  in  the  loom.  This  is,  of 
course,  a  two-loom  rate,  and  a  weaver  on  two  looms  of  130-pick  effi- 
ciency will  produce,  without  accidents  or  waits  for  material,  40 
yards  per  loom  per  day. 

English  mills. — Our  figures  show  cost  on  this  fabric  in  England  to 
be  as  follows: 

The  cost  of  the  yarn  material  for  a  yard  of  cloth  is  given  at  $0.3718. 
The  manufacturing  cost  is  11.93  cents,  making  a  total  of  $0.4911- 
per  yard. 

The  weaver's  rate  is  1.37  cents  per  yard  in  the  raw.  It  is  two- 
loom  work,  and  on  145-pick  looms  a  weaver  will  produce  190  yards 
per  loom  per  week,  and  earn  $5.20. 

French  weaving  rates.— The  weaver's  rate  on  this  cloth  in  Roubaix 
France,  is  1.76  cents  per  yard.     It  is  two-loom  work,  and  a  weaver 
will  produce  66  yards  of  cloth  in  a  day  of  10  hours,  and  earn  $1.16. 

Sample  No,  23. 

Men's  blue  worsted  serge,  54  inches  wide,  weighing  12  ounces  to  the 
yard:  The  actual  loom  analysis  shows  3,320  warp  ends  on  a  reed 
width  of  61i  inches,  shrinking  to  54  inches  in  the  finished  cloth.  The 
warp  is  two-ply  24  and  the  weft  single  24  worsted  yarn.  There  are  54 
picks  to  the  mch.    It  is  piece  dyed. 


666 


EEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOABB  OF  BCHEBtTMI  K. 


Arnencan  mtUs. — ^The  yam  cost  as  reported  is  $0.75  per  pound, 
and  It  requires  0.8  of  a  pound  of  yam  material  for  a  yard  of  miished 
cloth;  the  stock  cost,  therefore,  is  $0.60  per  yard. 

From  our  figures,  the  American  conversion  cost — from  yam  to 
finished  cloth~on  this  fabric  may  be  taken  as  $0,236  per  yard.  This 
IS  withm  0.6  of  a  cent  of  the  average  of  all  the  firms  giving  complete 
costs  reports  on  this  sample,  and  within  less  than  0.5  of  a  cent  of  the 
cost  given  by  the  mill  making  the  sample.  The  total  cloth  cost, 
therefore,  is  $0,835  per  yard.  Analyzing  the  conversion  cost,  it  is 
found  that  15  cents  per  yard  is  for  labor. 

The  weaver's  rate  is  4  cents  per  yard  on  the  loom,  making  a  weav- 
ing cost  of  4.75  cents  per  yard  of  finished  cloth.  It  is  two-loom  work, 
and  a  weaver  wiU  produce  on  120-pick  looms,  without  extraordinary 


t     ' 


BEPORT  or  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


667 


delays,  24  yards  per  loom  per  day.' 
English  mills. — O 


*  u  •  -  X    i^         ,  .P^^  figures  show  the  cost  in  England  on  this 
fabnc  to  be  as  follows: 

The  stock  material  costs  $0,366  per  yard  of  finished  cloth:  the 
conversion  or  manufacturing  cost  is  $0,104,  making  a  total  cloth 
cost  of  $0.47  per  yard. 

It  is  two-loom  work,  and  on  145-pick  looms  a  weaver  will  produce 
155  yards  per  loom  per  week  of  55 J  hours. 

French  miUs.'-OuT  French  figures  on  this  cloth  show  that  $0.4426 
per  yard  is  the  net  cost  of  this  fabric  at  the  miU. 

Sample  Na.  24, 

Fancy  cotton- warp  worsted,  56  inches  wide  and  weighing  12  ounces 
H.  ,  J*^^*  "^.^^  ^^^^  loom  analysis  shows  4,136  warp  ends,  of 
which  2,688  ends  are  cotton  16/80;  1,336  ends  are  two-ply  26  cotton 
yarn;  and  112  ends  are  42/2  silk  yam.  The  width  in  the  reed  is  65 
inches.  The  weft  is  two-ply  worsted  yarn  No.  40,  and  there  are  64 
picks  to  the  inch. 

American  miKg.— It  reouires  0.8  of  a  pound  of  yam  material  to 

P^^n  ^^f  .*  ^^^^  ^^  ^¥^  ^^^^^-    '^^®  average  cost  of  the  yarn  described 
^  f  •  i  /7  pound,  making  a  total  stock  cost  of  $0,571  per  yard 

From  our  figures  the  American  conversion  cost  from  yam  to 
toished  cloth  on  this  fabric  may  be  taken  as  24  cents,  making  a  total 
cloth  cost  of  $0,811  per  yard  on  this  sample.  The  labor  cost  is  17 
cents  per  yard. 

The  weaver's  rate  on  two-loom  work  ranges  from  6.4  cents  to  6.9 
cents  per  yard.  Two  establishments  gave  a  one-loom  rate  of  13  2 
cents  per  yard  on  this  sample. 

English  mills.— Out  figures  show  cost  on  this  fabric  in  England  to 
be  as  follows:  ^ 

Material,  $0.5076  per  finished  yard;  conversion  cost,  9.85  cents 
per  yard,  making  a  total  cloth  cost  of  $0.6061  per  yard.  The  weaver's 
rate  is  2.6  cents  per  yard  in  the  raw.  It  is  two-loom  work,  and  on 
lappet  140-pick  looms  a  weaver  will  produce  114  yards  per  loom  per 
week  of  55J  hours.  j  f  F  * 

^(^eign  weaving  mtes.—'bi  Roubaix,  France,  this  is  one-loom  work 
and  the  rate  is  5.29  cents  per  yard.  A  weaver  will  produce  21.8 
yards  in  a  day  of  10  hours,  and  earn  $1.15. 


Weavers'  rates  on  this  sample  were  secured  from  four  of  the  cloth 
centers  in  Germany,  as  follows : 

At  Forst  the  rate  is  6.85  cents,  and  a  weaver  will  produce  17  yards 
in  a  day. 

At  Aachen  the  rate  is  7  cents  per  vard,  and  a  weaver  will  produce 
83  yards  in  a  week  of  58i  hours;  and  earn  $5.81. 

At  Cottbus  the  rate  on  100-pick  looms  is  5.48  cents  per  yard,  and 
a  weaver  will  produce  20  yards  in  a  day.  On  looms  of  80  picks,  or 
less,  the  rate  is  6.54  cents  per  yard,  and  17  yards  per  day  is  considered 
an  excellent  day's  work  on  these  looms. 

At  Spermburg  the  rate  is  6  cents  per  yard,  and  16  yards  per  dav  is 
considered  a  good  day's  work. 

Sample  No.  25. 

Fancy  cassimere,  56  inches  wide,  weighing  16  ounces  to  the  yard: 
The  actual  loom  analysis  shows  2,672  warp  ends  of  3i  mn  woolen 
yam  on  a  reed  width  of  68  inches,  shrinking  to  56  inches  in  the 
finished  cloth.  The  weft  is  also  3i  mn  woolen  yam,  and  there  are 
42  picks  to  the  inch. 

American  miUs. — ^It  requires  1.16  pounds  of  yam  material  to 
produce  a  vard  of  this  cloth.  The  average  stock  cost  per  pound  is 
$0,568,  making  a  total  stock  cost  of  $0,659  per  yard. 

From  our  figures  the  American  conversion  cost — ^from  yarn  to 
finished  cloth — on  this  fabric  may  be  taken  as  $0,245,  making  a  total 
cloth  cost  of  $0,904  per  yard.  Analyzing  this  conversion  cost  it  is 
found  that  15.4  cents  per  yard  is  for  labor;  the  average  weaving 
expense  is  8.8  cents  per  yard  of  finished  cloth. 

The  weaver's  rate  is  6.6  cents  per  yard  in  the  raw.  It  is  one-loom 
work,  and  on  a  96-pick  loom  a  weaver  will  produce,  without  extraor- 
dinary delays,  30  yards  in  ten  hours. 

English  mills.-— Our  figures  show  the  cost  in  England  on  this  fabric 
to  be  as  follows: 

Based  upon  a  yam  cost  of  $0.3733  per  pound,  the  stock  cost  per 
yard  of  goods  is  $0,433.    The  conversion  cost  is  $0.1136  per  yard 
making  a  total  cloth  cost'of  $0.5466  per  yard. 

The  weaver's  rate  is  3.47  cents  per  yard  in  the  raw.  It  is  one-loom 
work,  and  on  a  70-pick  loom  a  weaver  will  produce  124  yards  in-  a 
week  of  55J  hours,  and  earn  $4.30. 

Sample  No.  26. 

Fancy  cotton  warp  worsted,  60  inches  wide,  weighing  11.2  ounces 
to  tlie  yard:  The  actual  loom  analysis  shows  4,056  warp  ends  on  a 
reed  width  of  69  inches.     Of  these  warp  ends,  3,848  are  cotton  2/30 
and  208  ends  are  mercerized  cotton  2/50.    The  weft  is  2-ply  number 
40  worsted  yam,  and  there  are  62  picks  to  the  inch. 

American  miMs.— It  requires  0.794  of  a  pound  of  yam  material  to 
produce  a  yard  of  cloth;  the  average  cost  of  the  yam  used  was 
$0,692  per  pound;  the  resulting  cost  of  the  stock  material  in  a  yard 
of  cloth  is  $0.55. 

From  our  figures  the  American  conversion  cost — from  yam  to 
finished  cloth— on  this  fabric  may  be  taken  as  $0,249,  making  a 
total  cloth  cost  of  $0,799  per  yard. 


668 


BEPOET  OP  TABIFF  BOABB  OH  SCHEDULE  K, 


Of  this  coiiTersion  cost  of  24.9  cents,  15.8  cents  per  yard  is  for 
labor.    The  weave  room  expense  is  7  cents  per  finished  yard. 

The  weaver's  rate  per  yard  in  the  raw  ranges  from  9.1  cents  to 
10.4  cents  for  one-loom  work,  and  from  5.5  cents  to  6.1  cents  for 
two-loom  work.  The  mill  making  the  sample  pays  5.7  cents  per 
yard  for  two-loom  work,  and  this  is  the  typical  two-loom  rate. 

English  miUs, — Our  figures  show  the  cost  in  England  on  this 
fabric  to  be  as  foUows: 

The  yam  material  for  a  yai^  of  cloth  is  taken  at  a  cost  of  $0.4085, 
the  conversion  cost  at  $0,109  per  yard,  making  a  total  cloth  cost 
of  $0.5175  per  yard. 

The  weaver's  two-loom  rate  in  the  raw  is  2.6  cents  per  yard,  and 
on  two  130-pick  looms  a  weaver  will  produce  130  yards  per  loom 
per  week  of  55  J  hours. 

Foreign  weaving  rates, — ^In  Roubaix,  France,  the  weaver's  rate  on 
tliis  cloth  is  2.47  cents  per  yard  on  two  looms,  and  a  weaver  will 
produce  38  yards  in  a  day. 

Weaver's  rates  on  this  sample  were  secured  from  three  cloth 
centers  in  Germany.  At  Munchen-Gladbach  it  is  two-loom  work 
and  the  two-loom  rate  is  3.4  cents  per  yard;  a  weaver  will  produce 
31  vards  in  a  day  and  earn  $1.05. 

At  Cottbus  this  is  one-loom  work,  and  the  rate  on  looms  of  90  to 
100  picks  or  over  per  minute  is  5.8  cents  per  yard;  on  looms  80 
picks  or  less  the  rate  is  6.3  cents  per  yard. 

At  Aachen  this  is  one-loom  workj  the  rate  is  5.8  cents  per  yard, 
and  a  weaver  will  average  103  yards  per  week,  and  earn  $5.97. 

The  weaver's  rates  on  one-loom  work  in  the  United  States  are 
practically  double  the  one-loom  rates  in  the  one-loom  districts  of 
Germany,  while  the  two-loom  rates  in  this  country  bear  practically 
the  same  relation  to  the  two-loom  rates  in  Europe  on  this  sample. 

Sample  No.  27. 

Women's  cheviot,  54  inches  wide  and  weighing  1 3  ounces  to  the  yard : 
The  actual  loom  analysis  shows  2,240  warp  ends  of  two-ply  No.  20 
yarn  on  a  69-inch  reed,  shrinking  to  54  iAches  in  the  finished  cloth. 
The  weft  is  also  two-ply  ^o,  20  yam,  and  there  are  33  picks  to  the 
inch. 

Arrtefiean  rmMs.— It  reouires  0.93  of  a  pound  of  yarn  material  to 
produce  a  yard  of  finished  cloth.  The  average  stock  cost  pr  pound 
of  the  material  described  above  is  $0,804,  making  a  total  cost  per 
yard  of  $0,748. 

From  our  figures  the  American  conversion  cost  from  yarn  to  finished 
cloth  on  this  fabric  may  be  taken  as  25  cents  per  yard,  making  a  total 
cloth  cost  of  $0,998  per  yard.  The  labor  cost  is  12.3  cents  per  yard. 
The  weave-room  expense  is  3.5  cents. 

The  weaver's  rate  per  yard  in  the  raw  is  2.46  cents.  It  is  two-loom 
work,  and  on  90-pick  looms  a  weaver  will  produce  ordinarily  35  to  40 
yards  per  loom  per  day. 

English  miOs, — Our  figures  show  a  cost  on  this  fabric  in  England  to 
be  as  follows: 

The  stock  material  is  taken  at  40  cents  per  pound  in  English  mills, 
making  a  material  cost  of  37.2  cents  per  yard  of  cloth.  I^e  conver- 
sion cost  is  10.43  cents  per  yard,  making  a  cloth  cost  of  $0.4763  per 
yard  of  finished  cloth. 


h i„«i*sii.ciu  LAboratof)^ 

EEPOBT  OP  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE   K.     '  JSftQ 

The  weaver's  rate  is  1.12  cents  per  yard.  In  ititwO-Io<!/iii  work, 
and  on  Dobby  140-pick  looms,  the  weaver  will  produce  210  yards  per 
loom  per  week  of  55  J  hours. 

French  mills. — Our  figures  show  a  cost  on  this  fabric  in  France  to 
be  as  follows: 

The  stock  material  as  described  costs  31.82  cents  per  yard  of  finished 
cloth.  The  conversion  cost  is  12.55  cents  per  yard,  making  a  total 
cloth  cost  of  $0.4437  per  yard. 

The  weaver's  rate  is  1  cent  a  yard.  This  is  the  two-loom  rate,  and 
it  was  stated  that  while  a  weaver  would  not  run  two  looms  on  this 
cloth,  he  would  operate  two  looms — one  on  this  material  and  one  on 
something  requiring  less  attention — and  he  would  ordinarily  produce 
93  yards  m  10  hours  on  the  two  looms. 

Foreign  weaving  rates. — Weavers'  rates  were  secured  from  several 
points  in  Germany  on  this  sample.  In  Gera,  a  principal  center  for  the 
manufacture  of  women's  cloth,  it  was  said  that  while  these  cheviots 
ordinarily  fell  under  the  rates  for  women's  stuff,  yet  because  they  are 
so  heavy  the  weavers  have  insisted,  and  for  the  most  part  successfully, 
on  securing  men's  goods  rates  on  this  cloth.  The  thread  being  large, 
the  spools  empty  quickly,  and  while  a  man  can  not  watch  two  looms 
on  this  material,  he  may  operate  two  looms — one  on  this  and  one  on 
material  requiring  less  attention.  In  such  cases  the  rate  falls  into 
the  women's  clotn  list,  and  is  1.06  cents  per  yard;  when  woven  as 
men's  ffoods  the  rate  would  be  practically  twice  this  amount,  but  it 
would  be  one-loom  work.  When  operating  two  looms  a  weaver  will 
produce,  on  120-pick  looms,  90  yards  in  a  day  of  10  hours.  In  the 
other  cloth  centers  of  Germany  this  was  one-loom  work,  and  the  rate 
therefore  would  not  be  comparable  with  what  has  been  here  said  on 
this  sample. 

Sample  No.  28. 

Men's  fancy  woolen  suiting,  56  inches  wide,  weighing  13  ounces  to 
the  yard:  The  actual  loom  analysis  shows  2,176  warp  ends;  2,040 
warp  ends  are  of  three-run  woolen  yam,  68  warp  ends  are  of  two- 
ply  worsted  yarn  number  28,  and  68  warp  ends  are  of  silk.  The 
width  in  the  reed  is  68  inches,  shrinking  to  56  inches  in  the  finished 
cloth.  The  weft  is  of  three-run  woolen  yam,  and  there  are  32  picks 
to  the  inch. 

American  miUs. — The  stock  material  described  above  costs  on  an 
average  $0,593  per  pound,  and  it  requires  1  pound  of  material  to 
produce  a  finished  yard.     Therefore  the  stock  cost  is  $0,593  per  yard. 

From  our  figures,  the  American  conversion  cost — from  yam  to 
finished  cloth — on  this  fabric  may  be  taken  as  $0,254  per  yard  of 
cloth,  making  a  total  cloth  cost  of  $0,847  per  yard.  The  labor  cost 
IS  15  cents  per  yard.     The  weaving  expense  is  7.1  cents  per  yard. 

The  weaver's  rate  in  the  raw  ranges  from  5.3  cents  to  6.8  cents, 
6.6  cents  being  the  typical  rate.     This  is  one  loom  work,  and  on  looms 
ranging  from  92  to  98  picks  per  minute  a  weaver  will  produce  35  to 
40  yards  in  a  day  of  10  hours. 

English  miUs.— Our  figures  show  the  cost  in  England  on  tliis  fabric 
to  be  as  follows: 

The  cost  of  the  yam  material  entering  into  this  cloth  is  taken  as 
$0.31  per  yard  of  finished  cloth;  the  conversion  cost  as  9.8  cents 
per  yard,  making  a  total  cloth  cost  of  $0,408  per  yard. 


670 


BEPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEBITLB  K. 


BEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


671 


The  weaver's  rate  m  2  cents  per  yard  in  the  raw.  It  is  one  loom 
work,  and  on  a  75-pick  loom  a  weaver  will  produce  236  yaids  in  a 
week  of  55  J  hours. 

Foreign  weaving  rates. — ^Th©  weaver's  rate  on  this  sample  in  Rou- 
baix,  France,  is  3  cents  per  yard.  It  is  one-loom  work,  and  a  weaver 
wiUproduce  38  yards  in  a  day. 

Weavers'  rates  were  secured  from  two  cloth  centers  in  Germany, 
namely,  Crimmitschau  and  Forst.  The  Ciimmitschau  rate  is  3.56 
cents  per  yard,  and  the  normal  output  of  the  weaver  is  33  yards  per 
day.  It  IS  one-loom  work.  At  Forst  the  one-loom  rate  is  3.29 
cents  per  yard,  and  on  a  90-pick  loom  a  weaver  will  produce,  with- 
out extraordinary  stoppages  or  waits  for  material,  32  yards  in  10 
hours. 

Sample  No.  29, 

Women's  aU  wool  serge,  54  inches  wide,  weighing  8.2  ounces 
to  the  yard:  The  actual  loom  analysis  shows  4,500  warp  ends  of 
single  tWd  worsted  yam  No.  30;  the  weft  is  of  the  slme  yam, 
and  there  are  65  picks  to  the  inch.     It  is  piece  dyed. 

American  miUs. — ^The  average  stock  cost  shown  k  $0,967  per 
poimd,  and  it  requires  0.59  of  a  pound  of  yam  material  to  produce 
a  yard  of  this  cloth;  the  total  cost  is  therefore  $0.57. 

From  our  figures  the  American  conversion  cost  from  yam  to 
finished  cloth  on  this  fabric  may  be  taken  as  25.8  cents  per  yard, 
making  a  total  cloth  cost  per  yard  of  $0,828.  The  labor  cost  is 
14.5  cents  per  yard;  the  weave-room  expense,  6.3  cents  per  yard. 

The  weaver's  rate  per  yard  in  the  raw  is  4.7  cents. 

French  miUs, — Our  figures  show  the  cost  on  this  fabric  in  France 
to  be  as  follows: 

Tlie  total  cost  per  yard  is  $0.4586;  the  material  yam  cost  being 
$0.3564  and  the  conversion  cost  10.22  cents  per  yard. 

The  weaver's  rate  per  yard  in  the  raw  is  1.9  cents.  It  Is  two- 
loom  work,  and  a  weaver  will  produce  50  yards  of  cloth  in  a  day  of 
10  hours. 

German  weaving  rates. — ^The  weaver's  rate  in  Gera,  Germany,  is  2.2 
cents  per  yard  in  the  loom.  It  is  two-loom  work,  and  a  weaver's 
average  output  would  be  43  yards  per  day  on  120-pick  looms. 

Sample  No.  30. 

Fancy  worsted,  56  inches  wide  inside  the  selvage,  weighing  14 
ounces  to  the  yard:  The  actual  loom  analysis  shows  3,444  warp  ends, 
344  of  which  are  silk,  3,100  of  2-ply  No.  20  worsted  yam.  The  width 
in  the  reed  is  67.5  inches,  shrinking  to  56  inches  inside  the  selvage  in 
the  finislied  cloth.  The  weft  is  single  No.  16  worsted  yam,  and  there 
are  48  picks  or  weft  threads  to  the  inch.     It  is  woven  from  dyed  yam. 

American  miOs.-One  pound  of  yam  matenal  is  required  by  the 
average  plant  to  produce  a  yard  of  this  cloth.  The  average  cost  price 
of  the  yam  is  $0,846  per  pound. 

From  our  figures  the  American  conversion  cost — from  yam  to 
finished  cloth — on  this  fabric  may  be  taken  as  $0,265  per  yard,  making 
a  total  cloth  coat  of  $1.11  per  yard.  Of  this  conversion  cost,  17.9 
cents  per  yard  is  for  labor. 

The  weaver's  rate  is  9.6  cents  per  yard  in  the  raw  for  one-loom  work, 
or  4.8  cents  per  yard  when  woven  as  two-loom  work.    It  is  here  taken 


in  American  mills  as  two-loom  work,  and  the  average  weave-room  cost 
per  finished  yard  is  11.5  cents.  A  weaver  on  a  104-pick  loom  will  pro- 
duce 24  yards  of  this  cloth  in  a  day.  When  woven  as  two-loom  work, 
the  daily  output  would  be  45  yards  per  weaver. 

English  miUs.—0\xr  figures  show  the  cost  in  England  on  this  fabric 
to  be  as  follows:  The  yam-stock  cost  per  yard  is  $0.5835,  manufac- 
turing or  conversion  cost  is  11.7  cents  per  yard,  making  a  total  cloth 
cost  of  $0,701  per  yard. 

The  weaver's  rate  is  given  as  1.8  cents  per  yard  in  the  raw.  It  is 
two-loom  work,  and  on  Tappet  140-pick  looms  a  weaver  will  produce 
165  yards  per  loom  per  week  of  55^  hours,  or  330  yards  per  week  per 
weaver,  whose  earning  would  therefore  be  $5.94. 

Foreign  weaving  rates. — In  Roubaix,  France,  the  weaver's  rate  on 
this  sample  is  2.03  cents  per  yard  for  two-loom  work,  and  a  weaver 
willproduce  50  yards  per  day  of  10  hours. 

Weavers'  rates  on  this  sample  were  secured  from  a  number  of  places 
in  Germany,  in  each  of  whicn  it  was  one-loom  work,  and  in  making 
comparisons  between  these  rates  the  fact  of  one  loom  or  two  looms 
must  not  be  lost  sight  of.  The  one-loom  rate  in  Luckenwalde  is  5.3 
cents  per  yard,  and  a  weaver  will  produce  23  yards  in  10  hours.  At 
Forst  the  rate  on  looms  of  100  picks  or  over  was  4.1  cents,  and  on  looms 
of  80  picks  or  under  the  rate  was  4.9  cents  per  yard.  At  Spermberg 
the  one-loom  rate  is  4.1  cents  per  yard,  and  a  weaver  will  produce  23 
to  26  yards  in  10  hours.  Very  httle  of  this  class  of  goods  is  made  in 
the  Aachen  district,  but  the  one-loom  rate  there  is  4.5  cents  per  yard. 

The  weaver's  rate  for  two-loom  work  is  4.6  cents  in  the  United 
States,  as  against  1.8  cents  in  England  and  2.03  cents  in  France. 

The  one-loom,  rate  in  the  United  States  is  9.6  cents  per  yard,  which 
may  be  compared  with  the  German  one-loom  rates  or  5.3  cents,  4.9 
cents,  and  in  two  districts  4.1  cents  per  yard. 

Sample  No.  81. 

Men's  fancy  woolen,  56  inches  wide  inside  the  selvage,  weighing  18 
ounces  to  the  yard:  The  actual  loom  analysis  shows  3,456  warp  ends, 
of  which  384  are  silk.  The  width  on  the  loom  is  71.7  inches;  44  picks 
to  the  inch  on  the  loom.  In  both  warp  and  weft  one-half  the  threads 
are  white,  and  one-half  black;  the  white  in  each  case  being  3i-run, 
and  the  black  2}-run  woolen  yarn.    The  silk  is  white  2-ply  48. 

American  mills. — ^The  average  price  paid  for  the  woolen  yams  used 
was  $0.68  per  pound,  and  1.3  pounds  is  required  to  produce  a  yard 
of  the  finisned  goods,  or  $0,884  for  the  yarn,  and  4  cents  for  the  silk, 
giving  $0,924  as  representing  the  cost  of  material  in  American  mills. 

From  our  figures  the  American  conversion  cost — ^from  yarn  to 
finished  cloth — on  this  fabric  may  be  taken  as  $0.2819  per  yard, 
making  a  total  cloth  cost  of  $1,206  per  yard.  The  actual  labor  cost 
is  15.53  cents  per  yard. 

The  weaving  rate  varies  from  6.6  cents  to  9.24  cents  per  yard,  the 
tjrpical  rate  being  8  cents  per  yard  for  one-loom  work. 

English  mills.— -Our  figures  show  the  conversion  cost  in  England  on 
this  fabric  to  be  $0.1114  per  yard. 

The  weaver's  rate  is  3.42  cents  per  yard  for  one-loom  work,  and  a 
weaver  on  one  75-pick  loom  will  produce  2}  yards  per  hour. 

French  miUs. — Our  figures  show  the  cost  in  France  on  this  fabric  to 
be  as  follows : 


672 


REPOBT  OP  TAEIFF  BOABD  OF  SCHEBULB  K, 


EBPOBT  OF  TAEIFF  BOARD  O^   SCHEDULE  K. 


673 


The  cost  of  the  yam  material  per  yard  of  finished  cloth  is  $0,589. 
The  conversion  cost  is  10.134  per  yard,  making  a  total  cloth  cost  of 
10.723  per  yard. 

The  weaver's  rato  on  this  sample  is  3.82  cents  per  yard  in  the  French 
mill  reporting  costs.  An  independent  report  on  weaver's  rates  shows 
4.2  cents  per  yard.     It  is  one-loom  work  in  France. 

German  weaving  rates. — German  weaving  rates  on  this  sample  were 
secured  from  three  cloth  centers,  namely,  Cottbus,  Forst,  and.  Sperm- 
berg.  One  rate  for  the  former  locality  was  6.28  cents  per  yard,  on 
slow  looms  upon  which  a  weaver  could  make  from  18.9  to  22  yards  of 
cloth  in  a  day,  and  earn  from  $1  to  $1.16.  On  looms  90  to  100  picks 
a  minute,  upon  which  a  weaver  would  produce  31.5  yards  in  a  day, 
the  rate  was  4.14  cents.  On  80-pick  looms  the  rate  was  4.5  cents  per 
yard.  In  Spermberg  the  rate  was  3.77  cents  per  yard;  a  weaver  will 
produce  from  2.5  to  2.8  yards  in  an  hour.  The  mills  in  this  district 
run  62  hours  per  week,  and  a  good  weaver  will  earn  about  $6. 

Sample  No,  S2, 

A  fancy  fine  woolen,  56  inches  wide  and  weighing  12  ounces  to  the 
yard:  The  actual  loom  analysis  ffives  3,068  warp  ends^  or  54  to  the 
mch.  on  a  reed  width  of  70  inches,  shrinking  to  56  mches  in  the 
finished  cloth.  The  warp  is  4J-run  varn;  the  weft  is  5J-run  yam, 
and  there  are  48  picks,  or  weft  threads,  to  the  inch. 

American  miUs. — ^It  requires  0.887  of  a  pound  of  yam  material  to 
make  a  yard  of  finished  cloth.  Of  this,  0.468  of  a  pound  is  warp  yarn, 
and  0,419  of  a  pound  is  weft  yam.  Establishments  buying  their  yam 
pay  practically  the  same  for  both  warp  and  weft,  namely,  75  cents  a 
pound.  EstabMshments  making  their  yam  had  an'average  cost  of 
62.8  cents  per  pound  for  warp  yarn,  and  66  cents  per  pound  for  weft 
yam.  The  yam  material  for  a  yard  of  cloth  is,  therefore,  57  cents  for 
those  making  their  yarn,  and  66.5  cents  where  yarn  is  purchased  in 
the  market. 

From  our  figures  the  American  conversion  cost  from  yarn  to 
finished  cloth  on  this  fabric  may  be  taken  as  29  cents  per  yard.  This 
gives  a  total  cost  of  86  cents  per  yard  for  those  making  their  own 
yarn,  and  95.5  cents  j)er  yard  where  yam  is  purchased.  Analyzing 
the  conversion  cost,  it  is  found  that  the  total  labor  is  18  cents  per 
finished  yard. 

The  weaving  rate  is  9.3  cents  per  yard  in  the  raw.  It  is  one-loom 
work. 

Eiiglish  miUs. — Our  figures  show  a  total  cost  on  this  fabric  in 
England  of  $0.5007.  The  yarn,  which  is  purchased  at  44.3  cents 
per  pound  for  both  warp  and  weft,  gives  39.29  cents  per  yard  as  the 
cost  for  material.     The  manufacturing  cost  is  10.78  cents  per  yard. 

The  EngHsh  weaver's  rate  is  4.19  cents  per  yard  in  the  raw.  It  is 
one-loom  work,  and  on  a  75-pick  loom  a  weaver  will  produce  110 
yards  in  a  week  of  55^  hours,  earning  $4.61. 

Sample  No,  SS, 

Covert  wool  cloth,  54  inches  wide,  weighitfg  14  ounces  to  the  yard: 
The  actual  loom  analysis  shows  2,600  warp  ends;  one-half  of  these 
are  of  71-run  plain  woolen  yarn,  and  one-half  are  6i-run  woolen  yam. 


I.n 


The  reed  width  is  67  inches.  The  weft  is  of  61-run  woolen  yarn,  and 
there  are  52  picks  to  the  inch. 

American  miUs, — The  average  stock  cost  is  $0,744  per  pound,  and 
it  requires  1.01  pounds  of  material  to  make  a  yard  of  cloth.  There- 
fore the  material  cost  per  yard  of  cloth  is  $0,751. 

From  our  figures  the  American  conversion  cost  from  yarn  to 
finished  cloth  on  tliis  fabric  may  be  taken  as  $0,291  per  yard,  making 
a  total  cloth  cost  of  $1,042  per  yard.  Analyzing  this  conversion  cost 
it  is  found  that  17.2  cents  per  yard  is  for  labor. 

The  average  weave-room  expense  is  9.1  cents  per  yard  of  finished 
cloth.  The  weaver's  rate  is  7.8  cents  per  yard  in  the  raw.  This  is 
the  one-loom  rate,  and  on  a  90-pick  loom  a  weaver  will  produce  22  J 
yards  in  a  day  of  10  hours. 

English  miUs. — Our  figures  show  the  cost  in  England  on  this  fabric 
to  be  as  follows: 

The  cost  of  the  yarn  material  is  $0.5476  per  yard;  the  conversion 
cost  is  $0.1357  per  yard,  making  a  total  cloth  cost  of  $0.6833  per  yard. 

The  weaver^s  rate  is  5.1  cents  per  yard  in  the  raw.  It  is  one-loom 
work,  and  a  weaver  on  a  75-pick  loom  will  produce  91  yards  in  a  week 
of  55i  hours,  and  earn  $4.64. 

Sample  No,  84, 

Fancy  worsted  suiting,  56  inches  wide  inside  the  selvage,  weighing 
11.5  ounces  to  the  yard,  piece  dyed:  The  actual  loom  analysis  snows 
3,664  warp  ends  on  a  reed  width  of  68  inches.  The  warp  is  2-ply 
worsted  yarn  No.  36,  and  the  weft  is  single  No.  20  worsted  yarn 
There  are  60  picks  to  the  inch. 

Americmh  miUs. — It  requires  0.785  of  a  pound  of  the  yarn  material 
described  to  produce  a  finished  yard  of  this  cloth.  The  stock  costs 
an  average  of  $0,856  per  pound,  making  a  material  cost  of  $0,672 
per  yard. 

From  our  figures  the  American  conversion  cost  from  yarn  to 
finished  cloth  on  this  fabric  may  be  taken  as  29.3  cents  per  yard, 
making  a  total  of  $0,965  per  yard  of  cloth.  Analyzing  the  conversion 
cost,  it  is  found  that  16.11  cents  per  yard  is  labor  cost. 

The  weaver's  rate  in  the  raw  is  4.28  cents  per  yard.  It  is  two- 
loom  work,  and  on  125-pick  looms  a  weaver  will  produce  24  yards 
per  loom  per  day. 

English  mills. — Our  figures  show  cost  on  this  fabric  in  England  to 
be  as  follows: 

Material,  $0.3504  per  yard  of  finished  cloth;  conversion  cost, 
$0.1207,  making  a  total  of  $0.4711  per  yard. 

The  weaver's  rate  is  2  cents  per  yard  in  the  raw.  It  is  two-loom 
work,  and  on  Tappet  140-pick  looms  a  weaver  will  produce  131  yards 
per  loom  per  week  of  55J  hours. 

French  miUs, — Our  returns  were  secured  from  four  mills  in  France 
on  this  sample.  Two  of  these  give  a  total  cost  of  $0,505  per  yard; 
another  gives  $0.5081  as  the  total  cost.  The  mill  giving  the  highest 
cost  furnishes  the  greatest  detail.  This  gives  yarn  material  at 
$0.5218  per  pound,  and  as  it  requires  0.785  of  a  pound  of  yarn  to  pro- 
duce a  yard  of  cloth,  the  stock  cost  is  $0.4096  per  yard  of  finished 
cloth.  The  manufacturing  or  conversion  cost  is  $0.1328  per  yard, 
making  a  total  cost  of  $0.5424  per  yard. 


674 


EEPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOAED  ON  SCHEDUMI  K, 


The  weaver's  rate  is  2.4  cents  per  yard  in  the  raw.  It  is  two-loom 
work,  and  a  weaver  will  produce  44  yards  on  two  looms  in  a  day. 

Foreign  weaving  rates, — In  Gera,  Germany,  the  two-loom  weaver's 
rate  on  this  sample  is  2.8  cents  per  yard  on  120-pick  looms,  and  a 
weaver  will  produce  33  yards  in  10  hours. 

In  all  other  points  visited  this  was  one-loom  work,  and  in  making 
comparisons  with  the  rates  here  given  this  fact  must  he  borne  in 
mind. 

In  Verviers,  Belmum,  the  one-loom  rate  is  7.3  cents  j>er  yard.  In 
Germany,  the  one4oom  rate  at  Forst  on  80-pick  looms  is  6.78  cents, 
and  on  looms  of  100  picks  or  over  the  rate  is  5.65  cents  per  yard.  At 
Aachen  the  one-loom  rate  is  6.5  cents  per  yard,  and  a  weaver  will 
produce  20  yards  in  a  day. 

Sample  No,  S5. 

Women's  gray  worsted  serge,  58  inches  wide,  weighing  12.2  ounces 
to  the  yard:  The  actual  loom  analysis  shows  4,850  warp  ends  of  2-ply 
worsted  yam  No.  45  on  a  reed  width  of  75  inches,  shrinking  to 
58  inches  in  the  finished  cloth.  The  weft  is  2-ply  worsted  yam  No. 
45,  and  there  are  63  picks  to  the  inch. 

American  mills. — ^The  average  cost  of  the  yam  stock  described  is 
11.333  per  pound.  Nine-tenths  of  a  pound  of  stock  material  is 
required  to  produce  a  yard  of  the  cloth;  the  stock  cost  per  yard  of 
doth  is  therefore  $1.20. 

From  our  figures  the  American  conversion  cost  from  yam  too 
finished  cloth  on  this  fabric  may  be  taken  as  $0,294  per  yard, 
making  a  total  doth  cost  of  $1,494  per  yard.  The  labor  cost  is  16 
cents  per  yard. 

The  weaver's  rate  ranges  from  4.25  cents  to  6.1  cents  per  yard  in 
the  raw.  It  is  two-loom  work,  and  on  105-pick  looms  a  weaver  will 
produce,  in  a  typical  American  mill,  from  20  to  25  yards  per  loom  per 
day,  if  there  are  no  extraordinary  delays  or  waits  for  warp  yam. 

French  miZZs.— Our  figures  show  the  cost  in  France  on  tnis  fabric 
to  be  as  follows:  The  yarn  cost  per  yard  of  finished  cloth  is  $0.7758. 
The  conversion  cost  is  $0.1531,  making  a  total  cost  of  $0.9289  per 
finished  yard  of  cloth. 

The  weaver's  rate  on  this  sample  in  Roubaix,  France,  is  2.322  cents. 
per  yard.  It  is  two-loom  work,  and  a  weaver  will  produce  43  yards 
m.  a  day  of  10  hours. 

German  weaving  rate.-An  Gera,  Germany,  the  weaving  rate  for 
two-loom  work  on  this  sample  is  2.19  cents  per  yard,  ana  a  weaver 
will  produce  44  yards  in  a  day  on  two  looms. 

Sample  No.  S8, 

Men's  blue  eerge,  66  inches  wide  finished,  56  picks  to  the  inch, 
18  ounces  to  the  yard,  piece-dyed:  The  actual  loom  analysis  shows 
3,744  warp  ends,  or  66  to  the  inch.  The  warp  and  weft  are  each 
2  ply-24  No.  worsted  yam. 

American  miUs. — ^An  examination  of  the  schedules  secured  indi- 
cates that  it  requires  1.35  pounds  of  yam  material  to  produce  a 
yard  of  the  finished  cloth.  The  average  price  of  the  yam  was  $0.93 
per  pound,  giving  a  stock  material  cost  of  $1,256  per  yard. 


EEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  B0AEI>  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


675 


From  our  figures,  the  American  conversion  cost — ^from  yam  to 
finished  cloth — on  this  fabric  may  be  taken  as  $0.30  per  yard,  mak- 
ing a  total  cloth  cost  of  $1,556  per  yard. 

An  analysis  of  this  conversion  cost  shows  17.8  cents  as  the  labor 
cost  per  yard  in  a  representative  mill. 

The  weaver's  rate  is  4.7  cents  per  yard  for  two  loom-work,  and  on 
140-pick  looms  a  weaver  will  produce  34  yards  per  loom  per  day. 

English  miZZs.— Our  figures  snow  the  cost  in  England  on  this  fabric 
to  be  as  follows: 

The  price  of  the  yam  required  is  given  at  $0.7016  per  pound,  and 
since  1.35  pounds  is  required  for  a  yard  of  cloth,  the  yarn  cost  per 
yard  is  $0.94716.  The  conversion  cost  is  $0,154  per  yard,  making 
a  total  cloth  cost  of  $1.10  per  yard. 

The  weaver's  rate  is  1.8  cents  per  yard.  It  is  two-loom  work,  and 
on  145-pick  looms  an  average  weaver  will  produce  3.42  yards  per 
hour  on  each  loom. 

Foreign  weainng  rates, — ^The  weaving  rate  on  this  sample  at  Rou- 
baix,  France,  was  found  to  be  0.829  of  a  cent  per  yard.  It  is  two-loom 
work,  and  a  weaver  will  produce  109  yards  per  day. 

This  doth  is  made  in  the  Glauchau  district  in  Germany,  and  the 
weaver's  rate  is  0.87  of  a  cent  per  yard.  It  is  two-loom  work,  and  a 
weaver  will  produce  109.3  yards  per  day  and  earn  95  cents. 

German  weaving  rates. — ^Weaver's  rates  on  this  sample  were  secured 
in  various  parts  of  Germany,  in  all  of  which  it  was  one-loom  work. 
In  Aachen,  the  principal  center  for  these  goods,  the  weaver's  rate 
varies  from  4.8  cents  per  yard  to  5.758  cenS  per  yard.  A  man  will 
weave  20  yards  per  day  on  one  loom  and  earn  $1.15  at  the  5.758- 
cent  rate. 

In  Spermberg  the  rate  is  4.8  cents  per  yard,  and  a  weaver  will  pro- 
duce an  average  of  1.6  yards  per  hour. 

Cloths  like  the  sample  were  formerly  made  at  Cottbus.  and  when 
made  there  the  one-loom  rate  was  5.758  cents  per  yara,  but  more 
recently  this  class  of  goods  has  not  been  made  at  ttds  center. 

Sample  No,  37, 

Men's  black  clay  worsted,  56  inches  wide,  weighing  16  ounces  to 
the  yard:  The  actual  loom  analysis  shows  4,284  warp  ends  on  a  reed 
width  of  68  inches.  The  warp  is  2-ply  worsted  yam  No.  32.  The 
weft  is  single  number  15,  and  there  are  60  picks  to  the  inch  on  the 
loom,  or  61  picks  per  finished  inch.     It  is  piece-dyed. 

American  mills.— It  requires  1.1  pounds  of  yam  material  to  pro- 
duce a  yard  of  this  cloth.  The  average  price  of  the  warp  yam,  as 
shown  from  the  schedules,  is  $0,914  per  pound;  of  the  weft  yam, 
$0,835  per  pound.  There  is  sHghtly  more  weight  in  the  warp  than 
in  the  weft.  The  stock  cost  of  the  1.1  pounds  of  yarn  material  is 
$0.96  per  yard  of  finished  cloth. 

From  our  figures,  the  American  conversion  cost  from  yam  to  fin- 
ished cloth  on  this  fabric  may  be  taken  as  $0.30  per  yard,  making  a 
total  cloth  cost  of  $1.26  per  yard.  The  labor  cost  is  13.6  cents  per 
yard. 

The  weaver's  rate  is  5.3  cents  per  yard  in  the  raw  for  two-loom  work, 
and  on  100-pick  looms  the  average  weaver  will  produce  25  yards  per 
loom  per  day.  The  one-loom  rate  on  this  sample  ranges  from  9  cents 
to  11  cents  per  yard. 


676 


BEPORT  OF  TAKIFF  BOABD  OK  BCHEDtlLB  K. 


English  mUk. — Our  figures  show  the  cost  in  England  on  this  fabric 
to  be  as  follows: 

Taking  the  warp  yam  at  the  price  of  $0.66  per  pound,  the  weft 
yam  at  $0.61  per  pound  in  the  proportion  which  they  bear  to  the  1.1 
pounds  of  yam  material  required  for  a  yard  of  cloth,  we  have  a  yam 
material  cost  of  $0.6985  per  yard  of  finished  cloth.  The  manu- 
facturing or  conversion  cost  is  14.36  cents  per  yard,  making  a  total 
cloth  cost  of  $0.8421  per  yard  on  this  sample. 

The  English  weaving  rate  on  the  sample  is  2  cents  per  yard.  It  is 
two-loom  work,  and  on  135-pick  looms  a  weaver  will  produce  2.3 
yards  per  loom  per  hour. 

Foreign  weaving  rates. — The  weaver's  two-loom  rate  on  this  sample 
in  Koubaix,  France,  is  2.47  cents  per  yard,  and  a  weaver  will  produce 
44  yards  in  a  day  of  10  hours. 

In  Aachen,  Germany,  the  one-loom  rate  on  this  sample  is  5.65 
cents  per  yard.  In  Luckenwalde  the  one-loom  rate  is  6.68  cents  per 
yard;  and  in  Spermberg  the  rate  varies  from  5.14  cents  to  5.39  cents 
per  yard,  according  to  the  speed  of  the  loom. 

As  both  the  American  one-loom  and  two-loom  rates  have  been 
stated,  the  proper  comparison  here  can  be  safely  made. 

Sample  No.  38. 

Fancy  worsted  suiting,  56  inches  wide  inside  the  selvage,  weighing 
11.5  ounces  to  the  yard:  The  actual  loom  analysis  shows  4,112  warp 
ends  on  a  reed  width  of  68.5  inches.  Of  these  warp  ends,  2,096  are 
2-ply  worsted  yam  No.  40,  and  2,016  ends  are  2-ply  40  worsted  and 
silk.  The  weft  is  single  22  worsted  yam,  and  there  are  60  picks  to 
the  inch.    It  is  piece  dyed. 

American  milts. — It  requires  0.754  of  a  pound  of  the  yam  described 
above  to  produce  a  yard  of  this  cloth.  The  yam  stock  costs  $1,134 
per  pound,  and  the  stock  cost  for  a  yard  of  cloth  is  $0,855. 

From  our  figures  the  American  conversion  cost  from  yarn  to 
finished  cloth  on  this  fabric  may  be  taken  as  31.1  cents,  making  a 
total  cost  of  $1,166  per  finished  yard.    The  labor  cost  is  16.9  cents 

per  yard. 

The  weaving  rate  in  the  raw  ranges  from  11.4  cents  to  12.1  cents 

per  yard  for  one-loom  work. 

For  two-loom  work  the  rate  ranges  from  5.3  cents  to  6.6  cents  per 
yard.  For  reasons  which  will  appear,  both  of  these  systems  and  rates 
must  be  borne  in  mind. '  A  weaver  on  one  90-pick  loom  will  produce 
18  yards  in  a  day.  On  two  110-pick  looms  a  good  weaver  will  pro- 
duce 35  yards  in  a  day. 

English  miMs. — Our  figures  show  cost  on  this  fabric  in  England  to 
be  as  follows: 

Taking  the  stock  material  at  the  given  price  of  $0.8304  per  pound, 
the  stock  cost  of  the  yam  in  a  yard  of  cloth  would  be  $0.6261,  on  a 
basis  of  0.754  of  a  pound  of  the  stock  for  a  yard  of  the  finished  cloth. 
The  conversion  cost  is  $0.1165;  the  total  cost  of  production  being, 
therefore,  $0.7426  per  yard. 

The  weaver's  rate  in  the  raw  is  2.456  cents  per  yard.  It  is  two- 
loom  work,  and  on  135-pick  looms  a  weaver  will  produce  135  yards 
per  loom  per  week  of  55i  houra 


BEPOET  OF  TABIFP  BOAED  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


677 


Foreign  weamng  rates. — In  Roubaix,  France,  the  weaver's  rate  is 
2.3  cents  per  yard.  It  is  two-loom  work,  and  a  weaver  will  produce 
44  yards  per  day  of  10  hours,  and  earn  $1.01. 

Up  to  this  point  the  weavers'  rates  in  England  and  France  may  be 
compared  with  the  American  two-loom  rate  of  5.3  cents  per  yard. 
In  all  other  points  visited  in  Europe  this  was  one-loom  work,  and 
hence  the  following  rates  must  be  compared  with  our  12-cent  one- 
loom  rate. 

In  Verviers,  Belgium,  it  is  one-loom  work,  and  the  rate  is  7  cents 
per  vard. 

The  rates  secured  from  the  cloth  centers  of  Germany  were  all  for 
one-loom  work,  and  are  as  follows: 

In  Luckenwalde  7.4  cents  per  yard,  and  a  weaver  will  produce  13 
yards  in  a  day.  In  Forst  5.14  cents  per  yard  on  looms  of  90  picks 
and  over,  and  6.17  cents  on  the  slower  looms.  At  Aachen,  on  110- 
pick  looms,  the  rate  is  6.17  cents  per  pard,  and  a  weaver  will  produce 
22  yards  per  day.  At  Spermberg  the  rate  is  5.4  cents,  and  18.5  yards 
is  considered  a  good  day's  work. 

Sample  No.  39. 

Men's  serge,  56  inches  wide  and  weighing  1 1  ounces  to  the  finished 
yard:  The  actual  loom  analysis  shows  4,850  warp  threads  or  ends  on 
a  reed  width  of  70  inches,  shrinking  to  56  inches  m  the  finished  cloth. 
There  are  65  picks,  or.  threads  of  weft  yarn,  to  the  inch.  The  yarn 
for  both  warp  and  weft  is  single  worsted  yarn  No.  25.    It  is  piece 

dyed. 

American  miUs. — It  requires  .78  of  a  pound  of  yam  material  to 
produce  a  yard  of  this  clotn.  Taking  $0.95  per  pound  as  the  average 
price  of  such  yarn,  gives  $0.74  as  the  cost  of  the  yarn  material. 

From  our  figures  the  American  conversion  cost  from  yarn  to  fin- 
ished cloth  on  this  fabric  may  be  taken.as  32  cents  per  yard,  making  a 
total  cloth  cost  of  $1.06  per  yard.  Analyzing  the  conversion  cost, 
it  is  found  that  19  cents  per  yard  is  for  labor. 

The  weaving  rate  is  6.35  cents  per  yard  on  the  loom,  or  when  paid 
by  the  thousand  picks,  the  rate  is  2.5  cents  per  thousand.  This  is  a 
two-loom  rate,  and  on  110-pick  looms  a  weaver  will  ordinarily  pro- 
duce from  30  to  35  yards  per  day. 

French  mills. — Our  figures  show  the  cost  on  this  fabric  in  Franc© 
to  be  as  follows: 

The  yarn  material  cost  is  taken  at  $0,486  per  yard  of  finished  cloth. 
The  conversion  cost  is  $0.1743,  making  a  total  cloth  cost  of  $0.6603 
for  the  finished  yard. 

The  weaving  was  done  in  this  factory  on  one  loom,  and  a  weaver's 
rate  was  2.22  cents  per  thousand  picks,  or  5.195  cents  per  yard  in 
the  raw,  making  a  weaving  cost  of  5.26  cents  per  finished  yard. 

In  Roubaix,  France,  where  the  cloth  is  woven  on  two  looms,  the 
weaver's  two-loom  rate  is  3  cents  a  yard,  and  a  weaver  will  produce 
on  two  looms  of  the  type  used  in  that  locality  from  30  to  35  yards  in 
a  day,  earning  from  90  cents  to  $1.05. 

Belgian  weaving  rates. — In  Verviers,  Belgium,  a  strictly  one-loom 
district,  the  rate  per  yard  is  6.32  cents,  and  a  weaver  will  produce 
one  one  loom  of  the  low  speed  common  in  that  district  from  17  to 
18  yards  a  day. 

32080"— H.  Doc.  342,  62-2,  vol  2 5 


678 


EEPOBT  OF  TABUfF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K» 


Sample  No.  40. 

Women's  brown  broadclothi,  54  inches  wide  and  weigliing  11 
ounces  to  the  yard:  The  actual  loom  analysis  sliows  3,D32  warp  ends, 
including  selvage ;  warp  ends  are  single  No.  30.  The  width  on  tlie  reed 
is  71 J  inches,  shrinkinff  to  54  mches  m  the  finished  cloth.  The  weft  is 
411  ran,  or  25  cut  woolen  yam,  and  there  are  60  picks  to  the  inch.  It 
is  piece  dyed. 

Armrimn  miUs, — ^The  average  stock  cost  per  pound  of  the  yam 
described  is  $0,733.  The  amount  required  to  produce  a  yard  of  cloth 
is  0.96  of  a  pound.    The  total  stock  cost  is,  therefore,  $0,704  per  yard. 

From  our  figures  the  American  conversion  cost  from  yam  to  finished 
cloth  on  this  fabric  may  be  taken  as  35.9  cents  per  yard,  making  a 
total  cloth  cost  of  $1,003  per  yard.  The  labor  cost  is  19.9"  cents  per 
yard.  The  weavo-room  expense,  including  weaving,  of  course,  is 
7.2  cents  per  yard. 

The  weavers  rate  is  5.4  cents  per  yard  for  two-loom  work.  It  is 
usually  woven  by  women,  and  on  115-pick  looms  a  woman  wiU  pro 
duce  20  yards  per  loom  per  day,  assuming  a  65  per  cent  efficiency. 

Gerrrmn  mills, — Our  figures  show  the  cost  on  a  similar  fabric  in 
Germany  to  be  as  foUows: 

The  material  cost  for  a  yard  of  this  cloth  is  $0,553;  the  conversion 
cost  is  $0,221,  making  a  total  cost  per  yard  of  this  cloth  of  $0,774. 

The  two-loom  weaver's  rate  is  3.54  cents  per  yard  in  the  raw  for 
100-pick  looms.  The  average  weaver  will  produce  30  yards  per  day 
of  10  hours  on  such  looms. 

Foreign  weaving  rates. — At  Aachen,  Germany,  goods  like  the  sample 
are  woven  almost  exclusively  by  women  on  **overpick"  looms 
speeded  to  125  picks  per  minute.  The  rate  is  2.5  cents  per  yard,  and 
the  maximum  earnings  of  women  on  this  work  is  reported  to  be  $0.62 
per  day. 

The  weaver's  rate  in  Gera  is' 2.8  cents  per  yard  for  two-loom  work, 
usually  120-pick  looms. 

The  weaver's  rate  on  this  sample  in  Eoubaix,  France,  is  1.838  cents 

Ser  yard.    It  is  two-loom  work,  and  55  yards  are  considered  a  good 
ay's  work. 

Sample  No.  41. 

Black  thibet  cloth,  56  inches  wide,  weighing  17  ounces  to  the  yard: 
The  actual  loom  analysis  8ho\¥s  3,304  warp  ends  on  a  reed  width  of 
80  inches,  shrinking  to  56  inches  in  the  finished  cloth.  There  are  58 
picks,  or  weft  threads,  to  the  inch.  It  h  made  of  4i-run  yam  and  ia 
piece  dyed. 

American  miUs. — It  requires  1.22  pounds  of  yam  material  to  pro- 
duce a  yard  of  the  cloth.  The  yarn  cost  is  $0.64  per  pound,  mafiug 
a  yam-material  cost  of  $0.7808  per  yard  of  cloth.  ^      F         ,        ^ 

"From  our  figures  the  American  conversion  cost  from  3^am  to  fin- 
ished cloth  on  this  fabric  may  be  taken  as  $0.36,  making  a  total  cloth 
cost  of  $1,141  per  yard.  Of  the  36  cents  conversion  cost,  18.1  cents 
per  yard  is  for  labor. 

^  Tlie  weaver's  rate  in  the  raw  is  6.38  cents  per  woven  yard.  This 
amounts  to  7.37  cents  per  yard  of  finished  cloth.  This  is  a  two-loom 
rate,  and  the  cost  here  is  given  on  a  two-loom  basis.  Cloth  of  this 
character,  however,  is  usually  one-loom  work,  and  a  weaver  on  one 


EEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOAKD  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


679 


90-pick  loom  will  produce  2 1  yards  per  day.  The  one-loom  rate  varies 
from  8.5  cents  to  11  cents  per  yard. 

English  mills. — Our  figures  snow  the  cost  in  England  on  this  fabric 
to  be  as  foUows :  Taking  the  yarn  cost  at  $0,406  per  pound  and  apply- 
ing the  loom  analysis  of  1.22  pounds  of  yam  material  to  a  yard  of 
finished  cloth,  we  have  $0.49532  as  the  cost  of  the  yarn  material.  The 
manufacturing  cost  is  $0.2053  per  yard,  making  a  total  cloth  cost  of 
$0,701  per  finished  yard. 

This  cloth  calculation  is  based  on  one-loom  work  for  the  weaver, 
and  the  weaving  rate  on  one  loom  is  4  cents  per  yard  in  the  raw, 
making  a  weaving  cost  per  finished  jrard  of  4.78  cents.  It  is  one- 
loom  work  in  England,  and  on  an  80-pick  loom  a  weaver  will  produce 
104  yards  in  a  week  of  55  J  hours  and  earn  $4.16, 

Sample  No.  4^. 

Men's  liffht-wei^ht  blue  serge,  58  inches  wide  and  weighing  13 
ounces  to  tne  yard:  The  actual  loom  analysis  shows  4,830  warp  ends 
on  a  reed  widtn  of  70  inches.  There  are  65  picks,  or  weft  threads,  to 
the  inch;  both  warp  and  weft  are  of  2-ply  worsted  yam  No.  45. 
It  is  piece  dyed. 

American  mills. — ^The  schedules  show  that  0.9  of  a  pound  of  yarn 
material  is  necessary  to  make  a  yard  of  cloth.  The  average  cost  of 
the  yarn  material  is  $1,172  per  pound,  making  a  stock  cost  for  a  yard 
of  cloth  of  $1,055. 

From  our  figures  the  American  conversion  cost  from  yam  to  fin- 
ished cloth  on  this  fabric  may  be  taken  as  36.2  cents  per  yard,  making 
the  total  cost  of  the  finished  cloth  $1,417  per  yard.  Analyzing  the 
conversion  cost,  it  is  found  that  21.5  cents  is  labor  cost.  Tne  weave- 
room  expense  is  9  cents  per  finished  yard  of  cloth. 

The  weaver's  rate  in  the  raw  runs  from  5.25  to  7.7  cents,  5.75  cents 
being  the  typical  rate.  It  is  two-loom  work,  and  these  rates  are  based 
on  two  loomsper  weaver. 

English  mills.— Our  figures  show  a  cost  on  this  fabric  in  England  to 
be  as  follows:  Taking  the  yarn  material  at  $0.7756  per  pound,  and  0.9 
of  a  pound  being  required  for  a  yard  of  cloth,  the  stock  cost  is  $0,698; 
the  conversion  cost  is  15.2  cents  per  yard,  makiug  a  total  cloth  cost 
of  $0.85  per  finished  yard. 

The  weaver's  rate  in  the  raw  is  2.2  cents  per  yard;  the  total  weave-' 
room  cost  is  3.914  cents  per  yard.     It  is  two-loom  work,  and  on  125- 
pick  looms  a  weaver  will  produce  120  yards  per  loom  per  week  of  55i 
hours. 

French  miUs.— Our  figures  of  costs  on  tliis  sample  were  secured  from 
SIX  mills  in  France.  Ihe  average  cost  of  yarn  material  was  $0,689 
per  pound,  making  a  cost  for  material  of  62  cents  per  yard  of  cloth. 
The  manufa^itunng  or  conversion  cost  is  14.58  cents,  making  a  total 
cost  of  $0,766  per  yard. 

^  The  weaving  rate  is  2.7  cents  per  yard  in  the  raw;  the  total  weav- 
mg  expense  is  3.01  cents  per  finished  yard.  It  is  two-loom  work, 
and  a  weaver  will  produce  38  yards  in  a  day  of  10  hours,  earning  $1.03. 
German  mills.— Our  figures  show  that  for  a  similar  cloth  in  Ger- 
man mills  the  cost  of  the  yarn  material  is  78  cents  per  yard  of  finished 
cloth.  The  manufacturing  or  conversion  cost  is  24.1  cents,  making 
a  total  cost  of  $1,021  per  yard. 


680 


EEPOET  OF  TARIFF  BO.iRD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


REPORT  OP  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


681 


The  weaver's  two-loom  rate  is  4.8  cents  on  100-pick  looms,  and  on 
two  such  looms  the  average  weaver  will  produce  21  yards  in  a  day 
and  earn  SI. 01. 

In  Cottbus,  Germany,  the  weaver's  rate  on  one  loom  was  5.8  cents, 
and  a  weaver  would  produce  17  yards  in  a  day  of  10  hours. 

In  Aachen,  Germany,  on  slow  looms  the  rate  was  6.9  cents  per 
yard,  one-loom  rate,  and  a*  weaver  would  produce  13  yards  in  a  day. 

Sample  No.  4^, 

Women's  broadcloth,  54  inches  wide  and  weighing  10.5  ounces  to 
the  yard:  The  actual  loom  analysis  shows  3,332  warp  ends,  including 
selvage,  of  single  worsted  yarn  No.  30,  on  a  reed  width  of  67.5  inches. 
The  weft  is  of  3 f  run  or  20  cut  woolen  yam,  and  there  are  53  picks  to 
the  inch. 

Amerwan  miUs, — ^The  average  stock  cost  is  $0,798  per  pound.  It 
requires  0.927  of  a  pound  to  produce  a  yard  of  the  cloth,  making  a 
total  yam  stock  cost  of  $0.74  per  yard. 

From  our  figures  the  American  conversion  cost  from  yarn  to  fin- 
ished cloth  on  this  fabric  may  be  taken  as  36.4  cents  per  yard,  making 
a  total  cloth  cost  of  $1,104  per  yard.  The  labor  cost  is  17.8  cents 
per  vard. 

The  one-loom  weaver's  rate  is  7.9  cents  per  j^ard  in  the  raw;  the 
two-loom  rate  is  3.8  cents  per  yard.  A  weaver  will  produce  20  yards 
per  loom  per  day. 

French  miUs.--OuT  figures  show  the  cost  on  tliis  fabric  in  France 
to  be  as  follows : 

The  conversion  cost  on  this  fabric  in  French  mills  is  20.47  cents 
per  finished  yard. 

The  weavmg  rate  is  3.5  cents  per  yard  in  the  raw  as  a  one-loom 
rate,  or  1.54  cents  as  a  two-loom  rate.  On  two  looms  a  weaver  will 
produce  60  yards  in  10  hours. 

Foreign  weaving  rates. — The  comparative  weaver's  rate  was  secured 
in  two  of  the  two-loom  districts  in  Germany  as  follows: 

On  100-pick  looms,  at  a  point  near  Aachen,  the  weaver's  rate  is  3.17 
cents  per  yard  in  the  raw,  and  the  weave-room  expense  at  this  point 
was  4.37  cents  per  yard.  The  two-loom  rate  on  this  sample  in  the 
Gera-Greiz  district  is  2.27  cents  per  yard,  and  a  weaver  on  120-pick 
looms  will  produce  45  yards  in  a  day  of  10  hours. 

Sample  No.  44- 

Woolen  overcoating,  60  inches  wide  and  weighing  24  ounces  to  the 
yard:  The  actual  loom  analysis  shows  6,336  warp  ends  of  4^  run 
woolen  yarn  on  a  reed  width  of  78  mches,  shrinking  to  60  inches  in 
the  finished  cloth.  The  weft  is  also  4^  mn  woolen  yarn,  and  there 
are  50  picks  to  the  inch. 

American  miUs. — It  requires  1.78  pounds  of  stock  material,  as 
described  above,  to  make  a  yard  of  tnis  cloth.  The  average  stock 
cost  per  pound  is  $0,728,  making  a  total  stock  cost  of  $1,296  per  yard 
of  cloth. 

From  our  figures  the  American  conversion  cost  from  yam  to  fin- 
ished cloth  on  this  fabric  may  be  taken  as  36.5  cents  per  yard,  making 
a  total,  cloth  cost  of  $1,661  per  yard.    Of  this  36.5  cents  conversion 


cost,  21.1  cents  is  the  cost  of  labor  per  yard.  The  weaving  expense 
per  finished  yard  is  11.2  cents. 

The  weaver's  rate  in  the  raw  is  9.6  cents  per  yard.  It  is  one-loom 
work. 

English  miUs, — Our  figures  show  cost  on  this  fabric  in  England  to 
be  as  follows: 

Taking  the  cost  of  the  yarn  material  as  described  above  at  $0.4866 
per  pound  in  English  mills,  and  taking  1 .78  pounds  as  necessary  to 
produce  a  yard  of  finished  cloth,  the  stock  cost  per  yard  is  $0.8661. 
The  conversion  cost  is  18.77  cents  per  yard,  making  a"  total  cloth  cost 
of  $1,054  per  yard  of  finished  cloth. 

The  weaver  s  rate  per  yard  is  3.86  cents  in  the  raw.  It  is  one-loom 
work,  and  on  80-pic-lv  looms  a  weaver  will  produce  115  yards  in  a 
week  of  55J  hours  and  earn  $4,44. 

French  mill. — The  conversion  cost  on  this  cloth  in  a  French  mOl 
is  $0.1812  per  y(\rd. 

Sample  No.  4^- 

Mcd's  fancy  half-worsted  suiting,  5Q.b  inches  wide,  weighing  13.2 
ounces  to  the  yard:  The  actual  loom  analysis  shows  4,320  warp 
ends;  4,104  of  these  are  2-ply  worsted  yarn  No.  48,  and  216  are  of 
2/18  silk.  The  filling  or  weft  is  6-run  woolen  yarn.  There  are  62 
picks  to  the  inch. 

American  mills. — It  requires  0.974  of  a  pound  of  yarn  material  to 
make  a  yard  of  the  finished  cloth.  The  average  stock  cost  is  $1,164 
per  pound,  making  a  total  stock  cost  for  a  yard  of  the  finished  cloth 
of  $1,134. 

From  our  figures,  the  American  conversion  cost — from  yam  to 
finished  cloth — on  this  fabric  may  be  taken  as  $0.37  per  yard,  mak- 
ing a  total  cloth  cost  of  $1,504  per  yard. 

Analyzing  this  conversion  cost,  it  is  found  that  27.5  cents  per  yard 
is  for  labor.  The  weaver's  rate  per  yard  in  the  raw  is  13.2  cents  as 
a  one-loom  rate.  In  one  instance  a  two-loom  rate  of  6.9  cents  was 
given,  but  this  is  practically  always  one-loom  work.  On  one  loom  an 
average  American  weaver  will,  without  extraordinary  delays,  pro- 
duce 22  yards  in  a  day. 

English  mills. — Our  figures  show  the  cost  in  England  on  this 
fabric  to  be  as  follows: 

Taking  the  yarn  mateiial  going  into  this  cloth  at  an  average  price 
of  $0,805  per  pound,  the  stock  material  for  a  finished  yard  of  cloth 
would  cost  $0.7841.  The  conversion  cost  is  $0.1671  per  yard,  making 
a  total  cost,  upon  this  estimate  of  stock  cost,  of  $0.9512  per  yarJ 

The  weaver's  rate  is  6.16  cents  per  yard  in  the  raw  on  a  basis  of 
one-loom  work,  although  it  is  quite  generally  two-loom  work  in 
England.  On  a  basis  of  two  looms,  a  weaver  will  produce,  on  Tappet 
130-pick  looms,  109  yards  per  loom  per  week  of  55^  hours. 

Foreign  weaving  rates. — The  one-loom  rate  on  this  sample  in 
Eoubaix,  France,  is  6.7  cents,  and  a  weaver  will  produce  16  yards  in 
ten  hours. 

In  Verviers,  Belgium,  the  rate  is  7.3  cents  per  yard. 

In  Cottbus,  Germany,  this  is  one-loom  work,  and  a  weaver  will 
produce  from  16  to  18  yards  in  a  day  of  ten  hours.  The  rate  there 
IS  7.17  cents  per  yard. 


>^. 


682 


KEPOBT  OF  TAEIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 

Sample  No,  4-6, 


BEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOAED  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


683 


Uniform  cloth,  indigo  wool  dyed,  57  inches  wide,  weighing  21 
ounces  to  the  yard:  The  actual  loom  analysis  shows  3,240  warp  ends, 
including  selvage,  on  a  reed  width  of  91  inches,  shrinking  to  57  inches 
in  the  finished  cloth.  There  are  56  picks  to  the  mch  in  the  loom,  or 
before  shrinking,  but  this  fulls  up  to  74  picks  per  inch  in  the  finished 
goods.  Both  warp  and  weft  are  of  3 J  run  woolen  yam.  It  is  dyed 
m  the  wool. 

American  miMs. — ^The  average  cost  of  the  stock  material  is  S0.735 
per  pound,  and  1.8  pounds  of  yarn  material  is  required  to  produce 
a  yaid  of  cloth.     The  total  stock  cost  is  therefore  $1,323  per  yard. 

From  our  figures,  the  American  conversion  cost— from  yarn  to 
finished  cloth — on  this  fabric  may  be  taken  as  $0,386,  making  a  total 
cloth  cost  of  $1,709  per  yard.  Analysing  this  conversion  cost,  it  is 
found  that  22.7  cents  is  for  labor. 

The  weaving  cost  on  the  finished  yard  in  a  t}T)ical  mill  is  14.7 
cents.  The  weaver's  rate,  as  is  well  understood,  is  in  all  cases  on 
the  cloth  in  the  raw,  or  directly  from  the  loom.  In  this  case  that 
rate  would  be  on  56  picks  to  the  inch,  but  in  cloths  of  this  type  the 
woven  yard  shrinks  materially  in  the  finish;  thus  the  weaver^s  rate 

Eer  yard  in  the  raw  on  this  cloth  is  10.7  cents  per  yard,  this  being 
ased  on  56  picks  to  the  inch.  Since  it  fulls  to  74  picks  per  inch, 
or  a  difference  of  32  per  cent,  the  weaving  rate  alone,  as  applied  to 
the  finished  yard,  would  be  13.424  cents  per  yard.  Of  course,  such 
variations  between  the  weaver's  rate  at  the  loom  and  the  finished 
cloth  can  occur  only  in  cases  of  such  cloths  as  the  sample.  It  is  one- 
loom  work,  and  on  100-pick  looms  a  weaver  will  produce,  without 
extraordinary  delays,  20.8  yards  in  10  hours. 

English  miMs, — Our  figures  show  the  cost  in  England  on  this  fabric 
to  be  as  follows: 

The  price  of  the  yarn  material  is  $0.5075  per  pound,  and  as  1.8 
pounds  is  required  for  a  yard  of  cloth,  the  stock  cost  per  yard  is 
$0.9135.  The  conversion  cost  is  $0.1861,  making  a  total  cloth  cost 
of  $1.0996  per  yard. 

The  weaving  cost  is  8  cents  per  yard  of  finished  cloth.  The  weaver's 
rate  is  5.7  cents  per  yard  in  the  raw,  based  upon  the  56  picks  per  inch 
as  woven  in  the  loom,  the  8  cents  representing  the  w^eaver's  rate  and 
other  weave-room  costs  on  the  shrunken  cloth,  or  after  it  has  been 
fulled  up  to  74  picks  per  inch.  It  is  one-loom  work,  and  on  a  80-pick 
loom  (the  kind  generally  used  for  this  class  of  goods)  a  weaver  will 
produce  79  yards  in  a  week  of  55J  hours,  and  earn  $4.50. 

Sample  No,  ^7, 

Black  unfinished  worsted,  56  inches  wide,  weighing  15  ounces  to  the 
yard,  or,  if  London  shrunk,  16  ounces  to  the  yard:  The  actual  loom 
analysis  shows  4,256  warp  ends  on  a  reed  width  of  76  inches,  shrinking 
to  56  inches  in  the  finished  cloth.  There  are  76  picks  to  the  inch. 
Both  warp  and  weft  are  of  2-ply  worsted  yam  No.  40.  It  is  piece 
dyed. 

American  milk. — It  requires  1.048  pounds  of  yam  material  to  pro- 
duce a  yard  of  this  cloth;  0.418  of  a  pound  for  the  warp  and  0.63  of 
a  pound  for  the  weft.  Tlie  average  cost  of  the  yam  used  was  $1.07 
per  pound;  the  yam  material  therefore  costs  $1.12  per  yard  of  cloth. 


From  our  figures  the  American  conversion  cost — from  the  yarn  to 
the  finished  cloth — on  this  fabric  may  be  taken  as  $0,382  per  yard, 
making  a  total  cloth  cost  of  $1,503  per  yard. 

Of  this  conversion  cost  20.5  cents  per  yard  is  for  labor.  The 
weaving  rate  for  two-loom  work  ranges  from  6.2  cents  to  6.82  cents 
per  yard  on  the  newer  type  of  looms  to  7  cents  on  the  older  looms; 
6.4  cents  may  be  taken  as  the  typical  weaving  rate. 

English  mills. — Our  figures  show  the  cost  in  England  on  this  fabric 
to  be  as  follows: 

Taking  $0.7206  per  pound  as  the  jprice  of  the  yarn  entering  into 
this  cloth  gives  $0.7552  as  the  cost  of  the  yarn  material  in  a  finished 
yard.  TThe  conversion  cost  is  $0.16  per  yard,  making  a  total  cloth 
cost  of  $0.9152  per  yard. 

The  weaver's  rate  is  2.6  cents  per  yard.  It  is  two-loom  work,  and 
on  135-pick  looms  a  weaver  will  produce  113  yards  per  loom  per  week 
of  55  J  hours. 

German  miUs. — On  a  cloth  very  similar  to  the  sample  in  construc- 
tion, but  carrying  a  somewhat  higher  grade  of  fimsh,  our  figures 
show  that  the  cost  in  a  German  mill  was  as  follows: 

The  stock  material  cost  $0,806  per  yard  of  finished  cloth;  the  man- 
ufacturing cost  was  $0.23,  making  a  total  factory  cost  of  $1,036  per 
yard. 

The  weaver's  rate  per  yard  in  the  raw  was  2.89  cents  on  two-loom 
work,  the  weaving  expense  per  finished  yard  being  3.6  cents.  The 
finishing  cost  on  this  goods  was  11.8  cents  per  yard,  but,  as  noted  above, 
this  was  on  a  somewhat  higher  standard  of  finishing.  It  is  two-loom 
work,  and  on  75-pick  looms  a  weaver  will  produce  35.6  yards  per  day 
and  earn  $1.03. 

Sample  No.  ^8, 

Men's  unfinished  worsted,  56  inches  wide,  weighing  14  ounces  to 
the  yard:  The  actual  loom  analysis  shows  5,100  warp  ends  on  a 
reed  width  of  77  inches,  shrinking  to  56  inches  in  the  finished  cloth. 
There  are  66  picks  to  the  inch  in  the  raw,  shrinking  to  63  in  the 
finished  cloth,  the  warp  is  2-ply  worsted  yarn  No.  45,  and  the  weft 
is  single  22.    It  is  piece  dyed. 

American  mills, — The  average  cost  of  the  warp  yam  is  $1,064  per 
pound;  of  the  weft  yam,  $0,892  per  pound.     The  average  cost  of. 
the  yarn  in  the  cloth  is  $0,987  per  pound,  and  as  0.97  of  a  pound  of 
yarn  is  required  to  produce  a  finished  yard  of  cloth,  the  yarn  material 
cost  for  a  yard  of  cloth  is  $0,957. 

From  our  figures  the  American  conversion  cost — ^from  yarn  to  fin- 
ished cloth — on  this  fabric  may  be  taken  as  $0,392,  making  a  total 
cloth  cost  of  $1,349. 

Of  this  conversion  cost  19.1  cents  per  yard  is  for  labor. 

The  weaving  rate  is  6  cents  per  yard  in  the  raw.  It  is  two-loom 
work,  and  on  110-pick  looms  a  weaver  will,  without  extraordinary 
delays,  produce  18  yards  per  loom  per  day. 

English  mills, — Our  figures  show  the  cost  in  England  on  this  fabric 
to  be  as  follows: 

The  cost  of  the  yarn  material  for  a  finished  yard  of  cloth  is  $0.6266. 
This  is  based  on  wool  of  a  2-ply  46  warp  and  a  single  22  weft.  The 
manufacturing  cost  is  $0.1924  per  yard,  making  a  total  cloth  cost  of 
'  .8190  per  yard. 


684 


BEPOKT  OF   TARIFF  BOABD  ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


The  weaving  rate  on  this  sample  is  2.582  cents  per  yard.  It  is  two- 
loom  work,  usually  put  on  135-pick  looms,  and  on  such  looms  a 
weaver  will  produce  116  yards  per  loom  per  week  of  65 i  hours. 

French  mms. — Our  figures  show  the  cost  in  France  on  tliis  fabric 
to  be  as  follows: 

The  yam  material  cost  is  $0.4794  per  yard  of  finished  cloth;  the 
conversion  cost  is  $0.2288,  making  a  total  cloth  cost  of  $0.7082  per 
yard. 

The  weaving  rate  is  2.74  cents  per  yard.  It  is  two-loom  work, 
and  an  average  weaver  will  produce  on  the  more  up-to-date  looms,  or 
in  other  words  in  the  better  mills,  38  vards  in  a  day. 

German  miMs, — Our  figures  show  the  cost  in  Germany  on  a  fabric 
of  similar  construction  to  be  as  Jollows: 

The  yarn  material  for  a  finished  yard  was  $0.81 .  The  manufactur- 
ing cost,  including  all  charges  for  general  expense,  depreciation, 
etc.,  was  $0.25  per  yard,  making  a  total  cloth  cost  of  $1.06  per  yard. 

The  weaver's  rate  for  two-looni  work  was  3.04  cents  per  yard,  or 
1.52  cents  per  1,000  picks.  This  is  on  100-pick  looms,  and  a  weaver 
will  produce  34  yards  of  cloth  in  a  day  of  10  hours. 

In  Aachen,  wliicli  is  a  one-loom  district,  the  one-loom  weaving  rate 
on  this  cloth  is  2.618  cents  per  1,000  picks,  or  6.5  cents  per  yard.  A 
weaver  on  the  better,  or  90-pick  looms,  will  fjroduce  22  yards  in  a  day. 

Belgian  weaving  rates, — ^At  Verviers,  Belgium,  the  one-loom  rate  is 
6.13  cents  per  yard.  On  the  slow  looms  of  this  district  a  weaver  will 
produce  17  yards  ina  day  of  1 1  hours. 

Sample  No.  49. 

Men's  serge,  56  inches  wide,  weighing  13  ounces  to  the  yard:  The 
actual  loom  analysis  shows  4,280  warp  ends  on  a  reed  width  of  69 
inches,  shrinking  to  56  inches  in  the  finished  cloth.  There  are  58 
picks,  or  weft  threads,  to  the  inch.  The  yam  for  both  warp  and  weft 
IS  2-ply  worsted  yarn  No.  38.     It  is  piece-dyed. 

American  milk. — The  average  cost  of  the  stock  yam  material  is 
$1.04  per  pound,  and  0.9  of  a  pound  of  material  is  required  to  pro- 
duce a  finished  yard  of  cloth,  making  a  total  stock  cost  of  $0,936  per 
yard. 

From  our  figures,  the  American  conversion  cost — from  yam  to 
finished  cloth — on  this  fabric  may  be  taken  as  $0,396,  including  gen- 
eral expense,  making  a  total  cloth  cost  of  $1,332  per  yard. 

Analyzmg  this  conversion  cost  of  39.6  cents,  it  is  found  that  21.3 
cents  per  yard  is  for  labor. 

The  weaver's  rate  is  5.6  cents  per  loom  yard.  It  is  two-loom  work 
in  American  mills,  and  a  weaver  on  110-pick  looms  will  produce,,  with- 
out unusual  delajrs,  23  yards  per  loom  per  day. 

English  mills. — Our  figures  show  the  cost  in  England  on  a  fabric 
of  similar  structure  but  less  expensive  finish  to  be  as  follows: 

The  yams  used  were  two-ply  Botany  wool  No.  38,  and  the  yam 
material  cost  $0.6129  per  yard  of  finished  cloth.  The  manufacturing 
cost  is  $0.1512,  giving  a  total  cloth  cost  of  $0.7641  per  finished  yard. 

The  weaver's  rate  is  2.657  cents  jper  yard.  It  is  two-loom  work, 
and  on  135-pick  looms  a  weaver  will  produce  136  yards  per  loom  per 
week. 


»ORT  OF   TARIFF   BOARD   ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


685 


French,  mifh. — Our  figures  show  the  cost  in  France  on  this  fabric  to 
be  as  follows: 

The  cost  of  the  yam  material  per  yard  of  finished  cloth  is  taken  as 
$0.5931.  The  manufacturing  cost  is  $0.1428,  making  a  total  cloth 
cost  of  $0.7359  per  yard. 

Analysing  the  manufacturing  cost  it  is  found  that  10.74  cents  per 
yard  is  direct  labor  cost,  while  3.54  cents  is  general  expense. 

The  weaver's  rate  on  this  sample  in  Roubaix,  France,  is  2.329  cents 
per  yard.  It  is  two-loom  work,  and  a  weaver  will  ordinarily  produce 
43  yards  per  day  on  two  looms. 

German  miUs. — The  cost  of  a  very  similar  cloth  was  secured  from  a 
German  mill,  the  principal  difference  in  the  two  cloths  being  that  the 
German  cloth  was  yarn  dyed,  and  not  piece  dyed,  so  that  the  dyeing 
cost  is  in  the  material  and  not  in  the  conversion  cost,  and  while  this 
would  not  affect  the  total  it  would  raise  the  material  cost  5  or  6  cents 
per  yard  of  cloth.  The  yam  cost  is  $0,759;  the  conversion  cost  is 
0.246  cents,  per  yard;  making  a  total  factory  cost  of  $1,005  per  yard. 

The  character  of  the  finish  on  this  cloth  is  exceptionally  high,  the 
finishing  cost  alone  being  10.8  cents  per  yard. 

The  weaving  rate  is  1 .52  cents  per  1,000  picks,  or  3.08  cents  per  yard 
at  the  loom.  It  is  two-loom  work,  and  on  100-pick  looms  a  weaver  will 
produce  34  yards  of  cloth  per  day. 

Foreign  weaving  rates. — The  weaving  rate  on  this  sample  in  the 
Gera  district  of  Germany  is  3  cents  per  yard  for  two-loom  work,  these 
being  120-pick  looms.  A  weaver  will  produce  42  yards  in  10  hours 
under  good  conditions. 

At  Spermberg,  a  one-loom  district,  the  rate  varies  from  4.7  cents  to 
5.2  cents  per  yard,  according  to  the  speed  of  the  loom. 

At  Aachen  the  one-loom  rate  is  4.97  cents  per  yard  and  the  two- 
loom  rate  is  3.48  cents  per  yard. 

The  Cottbus  rate  on  this  sample,  one  80-pick  loom  work,  is  6  cents 
per  yard  in  the  raw,  and  a  weaver  on  such  loom  will  ordinarily 
produce  19  yards  in  a  day. 

At  Verviers,  Belgium,  the  weaver's  rate  on  this  sample  is  5.6  cents 
per  yard,  one-loom  work  on  70-pick  looms. 

Sample  No.  50. 

Men's  fancy  worsted  suitings,  56  inches  wide,  weighing  12  ounces 
to  the  yard :  The  actual  loom  analysis  shows  4,401  warp  ends  on  a  reed 
width  of  66  inches;  4,301  are  worsted  yarn  2-ply  No.  40;  100  ends  are 
silk  partly  2/18  and  partly  2/72.  There  are  64  picks  to  the  inch,  of 
2-ply  worsted  yarn  No.  40.  One-half,  or  32  picks,  are  hard  twisted. 
It  is  woven  from  yarn-dyed  material. 

American  mills. — It  requires  0.931  of  a  pound  of  the  material  de- 
scribed above  to  make  a  yard  of  the  finished  cloth.  Taking  the  stock 
material  cost  at  $1,121,  which  was  the  average  for  all  establishments 
reporting,  the  stock  cost  for  a  yard  of  cloth  is  $1,044. 

From  our  figures,  the  American  conversion  cost — from  yarn  to 
finished  cloth — on  this  fabric  may  be  taken  as  $0,402  per  yard, 
making  a  total  cloth  cost  of  $1,446  per  yard. 

Analysing  this  conversion  cost  it  is  found  that  25.3  cents  per  yard 
is  for  labor,  the  weaving  expense  being  14  cents  per  finished  yard. 
The  weaver's  rate  in  the  raw  ranges  from  10.1  cents  to  11.6  cents  per 


686 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFP  BOABD  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


BEPOET  OF  TABIFF  BOARD  ON  SOHEDUI^E  K. 


687 


yard,  .10.4  cents  being  the  usual  and  typical  rate  for  one-loom  work. 
On  one  104-pick  loom  a  weaver  will  produce  21  yards  in  a  day. 

Gemmn  miUs, — On  a  cloth  of  a  similar  construction  in  a  German 
mill,  the  cost  of  the  yam  material  for  a  yard  of  the  finished  cloth  was 
$0.89.  The  conversion  cost  was  $0,278,  making  a  total  factory  cost 
of  $1,168  per  yard. 

Of  the  27.8  cents  conversion  cost,  6.3427  cents  was  weaving  cost 
per  finished  yard,  the  loom  rate  being  5.76  cents.  Mending  and 
burlmg  cost  2.178  cents,  and  finisliing  10.6  cents  per  yard.  The 
character  of  the  finish  on  the  German  cloth  was  somewhat  better  than 
that  of  the  sample.  This  was  woven  on  one  75-pick  loom,  and  the 
weaver  produced  19.7  yards  per  day.  If  woven  on  100-pick  looms  in 
the  same  establishment  the  weaver's  rate  per  yard  in  the  raw  would 
be  5.01  cents. 

Weaver's  rates  on  this  sample  were  secured  from  other  German 
centers.  At  Aachen  one  firm  pays  6  cents,  another  firm  pays  6.58 
cents  per  yard  for  one  loom  work.  The  average  output  of  a  good 
weaver  in  the  Aachen  mills  is  21.8  yards  per  day  of  10  hours.  At 
Cot  thus,  on  slower  looms,  the  rate  given  was  7.6  cents,  17  to  19  yards 
being  produced  per  weaver  per  day. 

Foreign  weaving  rates.^The  weaver's  rate  in  RoubaLx,  France,  is 
5.294  cents  per  yard  for  one-loom  work,  and  a  weaver  will  produce 
21.8  yards  per  dav  of  10  hours. 

In  Verviers,  Belgium,  where  these  goods  are  produced  on  one  loom 
and  slower  looms,  the  rate  is  7.34  cents  per  yard,  and  a  good  weaver 
will  produce  16  yards  per  day. 

Sample  No.  51, 

Men's  worsted,  56  inches  wide,  weighing  17  ounces  to  the  yard: 
The  actual  loom  analysis  shows  7,620  warp  ends  on  a  reed  66  inches 
wide,  including  selvage,  shrinking  to  56  inches  in  the  finished  cloth. 
The  warp  is  smgle-thread  worsted  yarn  No.  30,  and  the  weft  is  single 
12's  worsted  yam.  There  are  64  picks  to  the  inch  in  the  raw,  or  on 
the  loom,  fuUing  to  68  in  the  finished  cloth.     It  is  piece  dyed. 

American  m^2fe.— The  yarn  material  cost  for  a  yard  of  finished 
cloth  IS  $1,186,  1.3  pounds  of  yarn  being  requked  for  a  yard  of  cloth. 

From  our  figures,  tlie  American  conversion  cost — from  yarn  to 
finished  cloth — on  this  fabric  may  be  taken  as  $0,603  per  yard,  making 
a  total  cloth  cost  of  $1,789  per  yard.  The  labor  cost  is  31.3  cents 
per  yard. 

The  weaver's  rate  is  3.5  cents  per  1,000  picks,  or  8.05  cents  per  yard 
at  the  loom.  It  is  one-loom  work.  The  weaving  cost  per  finished 
yard,  that  is  to  say  after  the  shrinking,  is  9.1  cents. 

German  miZfo.— Our  figures  show  the  cost  in  German  mills  on  a 
sunilar  fabric  to  be  as  follows: 

The  cloth  taken  for  comparison  in  this  case  was  of  such  similar 
construction  that  the  variations  would  not  materially  affect  the  cost. 
It  IS,  for  instance,  58.5  inches  vnde,  weighs  17.5  ounces  to  the  yard, 
has  7,950  warp  ends  on  a  reed  width  of  66  inches,  and  has  69  picks 
to  the  mch.  Taking  this,  then,  for  comparison,  we  find  that  the 
material  costs  $0,865  per  yard,  the  manufacturing  costs  $0.32  per  yard, 
making  a  net  factory  cost  of  $1,185.  Tliis  includes  all  allowances  for 
depreciation  and  general  expense,  but  not  the  cost  of  selhng  the 


product.  The  cost  of  selling,  which  is  not  included  in  the  American 
cost,  is  eliminated  here  for  purposes  of  comparison;  it  amounts  to 
5.45  cents  per  yard,  making  a  cloth  cost  of  $1.24  per  yard,  sold  but 
not  delivered.    The  net  selling  price  at  the  mill  is  $1.42  per  yard. 

The  weaver's  rate  is  2.45  cents  per  1,000  picks,  or  5.635  cents  per 
yard  as  a  one-loom  rate  on  100-pick  looms,  and  working  on  suck  a 
loom  a  weaver  will  produce  18  yards  per  day  of  10  hours. 

In  Aachen,  Germany,  the  one-loom  rate  is  6  cents  per  yard  on 
looms  running  from  90  to  100  picks,  and  a  weaver  was  said  to  produce 
19  yards  in  a  day. 

French  weaving  rate. — In  Roubaix,  France,  the  weaver's  rate  on 
tliis  sample  is  4.94  cents  per  yard  on  one-loom  work,  and  a  weaver  will 
produce  from  19  to  20  yards  in  a  day. 

Sample  No.  5^. 

Silk  mixed  worsted,  58  inches  wide,  weighing  14.2  ounces  to  the 
yard,  yarn  dyed  and  London  shrunk:  The  actual  loom  analysis 
shows  7,744  warp  ends  on  a  reed  width  of  66  inches.  Of  the  warp 
ends,  3,872  are  of  2-ply  worsted  yarn  No.  60;  3,124  are  silk  twist 
2/60  and  single  size;  178  ends  are  of  2-ply  48  worsted  yarn;  and  572 
ends  are  of  30/2  silk.  The  weft  is  2-ply  worsted  yam  No.  48,  and 
there  are  62  picks  to  the  inch. 

American  mills. — The  stock  material  described  above  costs  an 
average  of  $1.48  per  pound,  and  as  1.016  pounds  of  material  is 
required  to  produce  a  yard  of  the  finished  goods,  the  stock  cost  per 
yard  is  $1,504. 

From  our  figures,  the  American  conversion  cost — from  yarn  to 
finished  cloth — on  this  fabric  may  be  taken  as  $0,632  per  yard, 
making  a  total  cloth  cost  of  $2,136  per  yard.  Analyzing  this  con- 
version cost  it  is  found  that  37  cents  per  3'ard  is  for  labor.  The 
typical  weave-room  expense  is  16.5  cents  per  yard. 

The  weaver's  rate  per  yard  in  the  raw  ranges  from  11  cents  to 
13.5  cents,  12.5  cents  being  the  typical  rate.     It  was  one-loom  work. 

English  mills. — Our  figures  show  the  cost  in  England  on  this 
fabric  to  be  as  follo^^'E: 

The  yarns  going  to  make  up  the  warp  of  this  cloth  as  described 
in  a  preceding  paragraph  have  an  average  cost  of  $1.03  per  pound; 
the  weft  yarn  costs  $0,892  per  pound.  The  weight  or  the  warp' 
yarn  used  is  not  ouite  twice  tnat  of  the  weft  yam,  but  applying  the 
proportions  of  eacn  that  go  to  make  the  1.016  pounds  of  yarn  neces- 
sary to  produce  a  yard  or  the  cloth,  it  gives  a  stock  cost  per  yard  of 
finished  cloth  of  $1.0197.  The  conversion  cost  is  $0.2376,  making  a 
total  cost  of  $1,257  per  yard. 

The  weaver's  rate  per  yard  in  the  raw  is  7.3  cents.  It  is  one-loom 
work,  and  on  a  Dobby  150-pick  loom  a  weaver  will  produce  91  yards 
in  a  week  of  55|  hours,  and  earn  $6.64. 

Foreign  weaving  rates. — The  weavers'  rates  on  this  sample  in  other 
parts  of  Europe  were  found  to  be  as  follows: 

In  Verviers,  Belgium,  the  one-loom  rate  is  7.75  cents  per  yard. 

In  Aachen,  Germanv,  on  slow  looms,  the  rate  is  7.43  cents  per 

Jrard,  and  a  weaver  will  produce  16  yards  in  a  day  of  10  hours.  On 
00ms  of  100  picks  or  more  per  minute  the  rate  is  6.37  cents  per  yard 
in  Aachen,  and  a  weaver  will  produce  from  19  to  21  yards  m  a"  day 
of  10  hours. 


si 


688 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  OF  SCHEDULE   K. 


Sample  No.  53, 

Men's  imlinished  worsted,  58  inches  wide,  weij^Iiing  14.5  ounces 
to  the  yard:  The  actual  loom  analysis  shows  11,760  warp  ends  on  a 
reed  width  of  75  inches,  shrinking  to  58  inches  in  the  finished  clotli. 
The  warp  is  2-ply  worsted  yam  No.  85.  The  weft  is  a  single  yam 
No.  45,  and  tliere  are  1 1 0  picks  to  the  inch.  It  is  piece  dyed 
'  American  milh.—Th&  weight  of  the  warp  per  yard  of  clotli  is 
0.6  of  a  pound;  the  weft,  0.4  of  a  pound,  making  1  pound  of  yam 
material  to  a  yard  of  finished  cloth.  The  average  cost  of  the  warp 
yam  per  pound,  as  shown  on  the  schedules,  was  $1.70;  of  the  weft 
yarn,  $1.30.    The  yam  material  for  a  yard  of  cloth  costs  therefore 

#1 .54. 

From  our  figures,  the  American  conversion  cost—from  yam  to 
tinisiied  cloth-~on  this  fabric  may  be  taken  as  $0,693  T)er  yard, 
makmi?  a  total  cloth  cost  of  $2,233  per  yard.  ^ 

Analyzing  this  conversion  cost  it  is  found  that  39.8  cents  per  yard 
IS  labor  cost.  ^ 

Tlie  weaving  rate  on  this  sample  is  19  cents  per  yard,  one-loom 
Work. 

English  milh.— Our  figures  show  the  cost  in  England  on  this 
fabric  to  be  as  follows: 

-.«To^  ^*^™  material  costs  $0.8946  per  yard;  the  conversion  cost  is 
*^J?^  R®^  T*^^^^'  making  a  total  cloth  cost  of  $1,234  per  yard. 

Ihe  English  weaver^s  rate  is  10.1  cents  per  yard.  It  is  one-loom 
work,  and  on  a  130-pick  loom  a  weaver  will  produce  59  yards  in  a 
week  of  55J  hours,  and  earn  $5.96. 

French  miUs.^Our  figures  show  the  cost  in  France  on  this  fabric 
to  be  as  follows: 

The  cost  of  the  yam  material  is  $0.80  ppr  yard  of  cloth  in  the  raw. 
ihe  manufacturing  cost  is  $0.3119,  making  a  total  of  $1.1119  per 
woven  yard,  as  is  the  custom  in  tlie  French  system  of  costing,  the 
shnnkage  bnngmg  the  cost  of  the  finished  yard  of  cloth  up  to  $1,223. 
..  oo®  weaving  rate  is  3.72  cents  per  1,000  picks  on  slow  looms,  or 
14.88  cents  per  loom  yard.  The  weaving  cost  on  a  finished  yard  is 
15.42  cents.    This  is  for  one-loom  work. 

The  weaver's  rate  on  this  sample  at  Roubaix,  France,  is  9.4  cents 
per  yard  for  two-loom  work.  It  is,  however,  generally  one-loom 
work.  '' 

German  milfe.— -Our  figures  show  tlie  cost  in  Germany,  on  a  cloth  of 
very  similar  constmction  but  somewhat  higher  grade  of  finish,  to  be 
as  follows: 

The  cost  of  the  yam  material  is  $0.9795  per  yard;  the  cost  of  con- 
version is  $0,417  per  yard,  making  a  total  factory  cost  of  $1.3965  per 
yard.  ^ 

Analyzing  the  conversion  cost,  it  is  found  that  the  weaving  rate  per 
yard  in  the  loom  is  10.52  cents  for  one-loom  work,  making  a  weaving 
cost  of  13.8  cents  per  yard  of  finished  cloth. 

The  fimshing,  wliich,  as  stated  above,  is  of  a  very  high  order,  costs 
14.3  cents  per  yard. 

When  woven  on  one  75-pick  loom  the  rate  is,  as  stated,  10.52  cents 
per  yard,  or  2.63  cents  per  1,000  picks.  A  weaver  will  produce  10 
yards  per  daj,  or  4,000  picks  per  hour,  and  earn  slightly  over  10  cents 
per  hour.     The  two-loom  rate  in  the  same  German  mill  is  1.79  cents 


BEPORT  OF   T.\EIFF  BOAED   01^   SCHEDULE  K. 


689 


for  1,000  picks,  or  7.16  cents  per  yard,  always  on  75-pick  looms, 
aster  looms  are  not  used  in  tliis  mill  on  goods  hke  the  sample. 

As  this  sample  is  not  made  on  two  looms  in  the  United  States,  the 
comparison  here  is  4.5  cents  per  1,000  picks,  or  19  cents  per  yard,  in 
the  United  States,  as  against  2.63  cents  per  1,000  picks,  or  10.52  cents 
peryard,  in  the  German  mill. 

Weaver's  rates  on  this  sample  were  secured  in  other  parts  of  Ger- 
many, namely,  Spermberg  and  Aaclien.  This  grade  of  clotli  is  made 
in  Aachen  on  100-pick  looms  as  one-loom  work,  and  the  rate  is  10.4 
cents  per  yard.  A  weaver  will  ordinarily  produce  9.6  yards  per  day 
of  10  hours,  earning  $1  per  day. 

At  Spcu'mberg  the  slower  looms  (67  to.  75  picks  per  minute)  are 
used  on  goods  like  the  sample,  and  the  rate  is  9.9  cents  per  yard.  On 
these  looms  9  yards  is  considered  a  good  day's  work. 

Belgian  weaving  rate. — At  Verviers,  Belgium,  the  one-loom  rate  on 
slow  looms  is  14.5  cents  per  yard,  7  yards  being  an  average  output 
for  an  11 -hour  day. 

Sample  No.  5 4. 

Worsted  cheviot,  having  a  finished  width  of  57.5  inches,  weighing' 
12.2  ounces  to  the  yard,  yarn  dved:  The  actual  loom  analysis  shows 
2,748  warp  ends  on  a  reed  width  of  72  inches.  Of  these  warp  ends, 
2,692  are  2-ply  worsted  yam  No.  28  and  56  are  of  silk  17/2.  The  weft 
is  of  2-ply  worsted  yam  No.  28,  and  there  are  47  picks  to  the  inch. 

American  mills.-Tho  amount  of  the  yarn  necessary  to  produce  a 
yard  of  this  cloth  is  stated  to  be  0.868  of  a  pound,  and  since  the 
average  cost  of  this  stock  for  all  mills  reporting  was  $0,909,  the  yam 
stock  cost  per  yard  of  finished  cloth  is  $0.79. 

From  our  figures  the  American  conversion  cost — from  yam  to 
finished  cloth — on  this  fabric  may  be  taken  as  $0,417,  making  a 
total  cloth  cost  of  $1,207  per  yard. 

Analyzing  this  conversion  cost  it  is  found  that  24.5  cents  per  yard 
is  for  labor.  The  weaving  expense  is  12  cents  per  finished  yard. 
The  weaver's  rate  for  one-loom  work  ranges  from  8  cents  to  9.9  cents, 
the  typical  rate  being  9.3  cents  per  3"ard  in  the  raw.  It  is  ordinarily 
one-loom  work,  only  one  establishment  reporting  producing  this  as 
two-loom  work,  and  here  the  rate  was  4  cents  a  yard.  A  weaver 
in  an  American  mill  on  106-pick  loom  will  produce  without  extra- 
ordinary delays  or  waits  for  yarn  28  to  30  yards  in  a  day. 

Foreign  weaving  rates. — Weavers'  rates  on  this  sample  were  secured 
ill  various  parts  of  Europe  as  follows: 

In  England  the  weaver's  rate  is  4.2  cents  per  yard  in  the  raw  for 
one-loom  work.  A  weaver  on  one  110-pick  Dobby  loom  will  produce 
147  yards  in  a  week  of  55i  hours  and  earn  $6.17. 

The  one-loom  rate  in  Roubaix,  France,  is  4.4  cents  per  yard,  and 
on  one  loom  of  the  type  prevaihng  in  that  district  a  weaver  will 
produce  25  yards  in  a  day  and  cam  $1.10. 

The  one-loom  rate  in  Verviers,  Belgium,  is  5.3  cents  per  yard,  the 
weaver  earning  $1  per  day  on  this  goods. 

The  rate  in  Cottbus,  Germany,  is  5.3  cents  per  yard,  and  a  weaver 
on  one  loom  will  produce  21  yards,  or,  in  exceptional  cases,  23.5 
yards  per  day  of  10 liours. 

At  Forst,  Germany,  tlie  rate  on  80-pick  looms  was  4.8  cents  per 
yard;  on  100-pick  looms,  4  cents  per  yard.     On  the  slow  looms 


690 


"D'K'Timj'T'    m?     TA'RT'PT?    TlAAnTV    fYKT     Ktr'TTTi'TlTTT  TO     tF 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


691 


23.6  yards  was  considered  a  good  day's  work,  and  the  output  on  the 
speedier  looms  was  approximately  one-fifth  more  per  day. 

At  Spermberg,  Germany,  one  firm  was  paymg  4.027  cents  per  yard 
and  another  firm  was  paying  4.228  cents  per  yard  on  substantiallj' 
the  same  character  of  looms. 

This  sample  was  found  to  be  woven  as  one-loom  work  in  all  the 
countries  of  Europe  visited,  and  in  all  but  one  plant  investigated  in 
the  United  States,  in  which,  as  indicated  above,  it  was  two-loom 
work.  The  weaver's  rates  for  one-loom  work  in  all  the  countries 
visited  except  Belgium  are  practically  one-half  that  paid  in  the 
typical  mill  in  the  United  States.  On  the  slow  looms  in  Verviers 
and  Cottbus  the  rate  is  shghtly  more  than  one-half  the  American 
rate. 

Sample  No.  55. 

A  fancy  woolen  cloth,  56  inches  wide  weighing  16.1  ounces  to 
the  yard.  The  actual  loom  analysis  shows  2,372  warp  ends  on  a  74- 
inch  width  of  reed,  the  cloth  shrmking  to  56  inches  in  the  process  of 
finisliing.  Of  these  warp  ends,  2,132  are  of  2|  run  woolen  yarn; 
*240  ends  are  of  twisted  woolen  6-nm  yarn  with  silk  2-ply  yarn  No. 
40.  The  Weft  is  of  2f  run  woolen  yam,  and  there  are  39  picks  to 
the  inch. 

ATnerican  miUs.-It  requires  1.2  pounds  of  yam  material  to  make 
a  yard  of  the  cloth;  the  average  stock  cost  per  pound  is  $0.49, 
making  a  total  stock  cost  of  $0,588  per  yard  of  cloth. 

From  our  figures  the  American  conversion  cost  from  yam  to 
finished  cloth  on  this  fabric  may  be  taken  as  28.1  cents  per  yard, 
making  a  total  cloth  cost  of  $0,869  per  yard.  The  labor  cost  is  16.7 
cents  per  yard;  the  weaving  expense  is  11  cents  per  finished  yard. 

The  weaver's  rate  is  7.6  cents  per  yard  in  the  raw,  and  a  weaver 
on  a  96-pick  loom  wiU  produce,  without  extraordinary  delays,  23 
yards  in  10  hours. 

English  mills. — ^In  England  the  wcaver^s  rate  is  3.12  cents  per  yard 
in  the  raw,  and  the  total  weave-room  expense  is  4.32  cents  per  yard 
of  finished  cloth.  It  is  one-loom  work,  and  a  weaver  on  a  75-pick 
loom  will  produce  135  yards  in  a  week  of  55 J  houi-s. 

Foreign  weaving  rates. — The  weaver's  rate  on  this  cloth  in  Roubaix, 
France,  is  3.17  cents  per  yard  in  the  raw.  It  is  one-loom  work,  and 
a  weaver  wiU  produce  27  yards  in  a  day  of  10  hours. 

In  Spermberg,  Germany,  the  weaver's  rate  on  this  sample  is  3.5 
cents  per  yard  on  90-pick  Jooms,  and  a  weaver  will  produce  from  28 
to  30  vards  in  10  hours. 

In  f'orst,  Germany,  on  looms  of  less  than  80  picks,  such  as  were 
UsuaUy  employed  on 'this  work,  the  one-loom  rate  is'  4.2  cents  per 
yard,  and  25  yards  was  considered  a  good  day's  work. 

In  Crimmitschau,  the  weaver's  rate  is  4.5  cents  per  yard,  the  daily 
output  27  yards. 

• 
Cards  containing  samples  of  all  tlie  clotJis  just  descrihed,  and  giving 
details  of  construction,  are  included  in  this  report,  and  accompany  it, 
for  the  use  of  Congress, 


I 


SUMMARY   OF   CONVERSION"   COSTS. 

The  accompanying  table  presents  a  summary  of  the  information 
given  in  detail  in  relation  to  these  samples  of  cloth.  It  shows  con- 
version cost  from  yam  to  finished  cloth  in  the  different  countries 
and  compares  the  American  cost  with  that  for  the  same  cloth  in 
England  and  France,  and  the  cost  of  similar  cloth  in  Germany; 

Conversion  cost  ^  from  yarn  to  finished  cloth. 


I 


Sample 
No. 

Kind  of 
doth. 

American. 

English 
(same  cloth). 

t0 

French 
(same  cloth). 

German 

(similar 

cloth). 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

7 

8 

9 

10 

11 

12 

13 

14 

15 

16 

17 

18 

19 

20 

21 

22 

23 

21 

25 

26 

27 

28 

29 

30 

31 

32 

33 

34 

35 

36 

37 

38 

39 

40 

41 

42 

43 

44 

45 

46 

47 

48 

49 

50 

51 

52 

63 

F 

G 

F 

G 

F 

F 

F 

E 

C 

F 

C 

B 

C 

c 

E 

E 

E 

C 

B 

E 

C 

B 

B 

G 

C 

G 

E 

C 

B 

D 

C 

C 

E 

I) 

E 

B 

A 

D 

B 

E 

A 

B 

E 

A 

I> 

A 

A 

A 

B 

?:;:::;: 

D 

A 

10.080 
.083 
.089 
.106 
.118 
.127 
.132 
.133 
.145 
.165 
.165 
.168 
.174 
.178 
.190 
.212 
.212 
.213 
.215 
.216 
.217 
.222 

.210 
.2-15 
.249 
.250 
.254 
.2.-8 
.265 
.282 
.290 
.291 
.293 
.294 
.300 
.300 
.311 
.320 
.359 
.360 
.362 
.364 
.365 
.370 
.386 
.382 
.392 
.396 
.402 
.603 
.       .632 
.693 

to. 0401 
.0415 
.0488 
.065 
.0556 
.0572 
.0614 
.0661 
.0689 
.0698 
.081 
.0777 
.0863 
.0777 
.0853 
.1107 
.1067 
.094 
.091 
.1034 
.089 
.1193 
.104 
.0985 
.1136 
.109 
.  1013 
.098 

$0. 0054 

.esi4 

.  083 

- 

.0866 

.1485 

1         

1 

1 

j 

1 

.  1255 

.  1022 

.117 

.1114 

.1073 

.1357 

.1207 

.134 

.1328 
.1531 

.154 
.1436 

.1165 

.1743 

?0.221 

.2053 
.152 

.1458 
.2047 
.1812 

.241 

.1877 
.1671 
.1861 
.16 

.1924 
.1512 

.23 
.25 
.246 

.278 
.32 

.2288 
.1428 

.2376 
.339 

.3119 

.417 

A.  Staples  afid  piece  dyes. 

B.  Serges. 

C.  Fancy  woolens. 
X>.  Fancy  wocstads. 


E.  Woman's  wear. 

F.  Light  weight  women's  wear. 

G.  Cotton  waip. 


692 


EEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


BEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON"  SCHEDULE  K. 


693 


The  following  table  separates  the  different  types  of  fabrics  hereto- 
fore described  and  gives  the  comparative  conversion  cost  separately 

for  each  type:  ^  . ,  .  t  ,1. 

C(mver»ion  cost,  from  yam  iofinuhed  cloth, 

STAPLES  AND  PIECE  DYES. 


Conversion  costt  from  yam  to  finished  cloth- 

COTTON  WARPS. 


-Continued. 


Sample 

Nc. 

American. 

Englisli 
(same  cloth). 

French 
(same  cloth). 

German 

(similar 
cloth). 

37 
41 
44 

46 

47 
48 
51 
53 

SO. 300 
.360 
.365 
.386 

.382 
.392 
.(503 
.693 

SO. 1436 
.2053 
.1877 
.1861 
.16 
.1924 

.1812 

."2288" 

10.23 
.25 
.32 

.417 

.339                    .3119 

h 


D  E  i\  Cf  lli  H . 


12 

SO.  168 

19 

.215 

22 

.222 

23 

.235 

29 

.258 

36 

.300 

39 

.320 

42 

.362 

40 

.396 

SO.  0777 
.091 
.1193 

.104 


.154 


.152 
.1512 


SO.0C3 


.1022 


.1743 

.1458 
.1428 


SO. 241 
.246 


Sample 
No. 

American . 

English 
(same  cloth). 

French 
(same  cloth). 

German 

(similar 
cloth). 

2 

4 

24 

26 

10.083 
.106 
.240 
.249 

SO.  0415 

.065 

.0985 

.109 

The  following  table  shows  what  proportion  is  labor  cost  of  the  con- 
version cost  of  turning  cloth  into  yarn,  taking  up  smgly  the  samples 
of  American  fabrics  heretofore  considered: 

AMERICAN  MANUFACTURE. 

Comparative  conversion  and  labor  cost,  from  yarn  to  finished  chth. 


FANCY  WOOLENS. 


9 

10.145 

SO.  0689 

11 

.165 

.081 

13 

.174 

.0863 

14 

.178 

.0777 

18 

.213 

.094 

21 

.217 

.089 

25 

.245 

.1136 

28 

.254 

.098 

31 

.2819 

.1114 

32 

.290 

.1078 

134 


FANCY  WORSTEDS. 


30 
34 
38 
45 
50 
52 

.285 
.293 
.311 
.370 
.402 
.632 

.117 
.1207 
.1165 
.1671 

to  1.128 

S0.278 

.2376 

Sample 
No. 


WOMEN'S  WEAR. 


8 
15 
16 
17 
20 
27 
33 
35 
40 
43 

SO. 133 
.190 
.212 
.212 
.216 
.250 
.291 
.294 

.a59 

.364 

SO.  0661 
.0853 
.1107 
.1067 
.ia34 
.1043 
.1357 

SO.  0866 

.1486 

.1255 

.1531 

SO.  221 

.•••«■••••• 

.2047 

LIGHT-WEIGHT  WOMEN'S  WEAR. 


SO.  0401 
.0488 
.0556 
.0572 
.0614 
.0608 


SO.  0654 


.0814 


1 
2 
3 
4 

5 
C 
7 
8 

9 

10 
11 
12 
13 
14 
15 
16 
17 
18 
19 
20 
21 
22 
23 
24 
25 
26 
27 
28 
29 
30 
31 
32 
33 
34 
35 
36 
37 
38 
39 
40 
41 
42 
43 
44 
45 
46 
47 
48 
49 
50 
51 
52 
53 
54 
55 


Kind  of 
cloth. 


F 

G 

F 

G 

F 

F 

F 

E 

C 

F 

C 

B 

C 

C 

E 

E 

E 

C 

B 

E 

C 

B 

B 

G 

C 

G 

E 

C 

B 

D 

C 

C 

E 

D 

E 

B 

A 

D 

B 

E 

A 

B.... 

E 

A.... 
D.... 
A.... 
A.... 
A.... 
B.... 
D.... 
A.... 
D.... 
A.... 
C... 
C... 


Conversion 
cost. 


SO.  080 
.083 
.089 
.106 
.118 
.127 
.132 
.133 
.145 
.165 
.165 
.168 
.174 
.178 
.190 
.212 
.212 
.213 
.215 
.216 
.217 
.222 
.235 
.240 
.245 
.249 
.250 
.254 
.258 
.265 
.282 
.290 
.291 
.293 
.294 
.300 
.300 
.311 
.320 
.359 
.360 
.362 
.364 
.365 
.370 
.386 
.382 
.392 
.396 
.402 
.003 
.632 
.693 
.417 
.281 


Labor 
cost. 


$0,052 
.058 
.050 
.062 
.074 
.078 
.092 
.082 
.107 
.088 
.100 
.095 
.121 
.095 
.103 
.133 
.110 
.130 
.119 
.110 
.134 
.109 
.154 
.170 
.154 
.158 
.123 
.150 
.145 
.179 
.155 
.180 
.172 
.161 
.160 
.178 
.136 
.169 
.190 
.199 
.131 
.215 
.178 
.211 
.275 
.227 
.205 
.191 
.213 
.253 
.313 
.370 
.398 
.245 
.167 


I. 


A.  staples  and  piece  dyes.  E.  Women's  wear. 

B.  Serges.  F.  Light-weight  WQ- 

C.  Fancy  wooleas.  men's  wear. 

D.  Fancy  worsteds.  G.  Cotton  warp. 


32080°— H.  Doc.  342,  G2-2,  vol  2 6 


694 


BEPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOABD   ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


GUIIMAN  AND  AMERICAH  CX>8TS. 


BEPOBT  OP   TARIFF  BOARD   ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


695 


The  immediately  preceding  section  of  tliis  report  deals  with  Ameri- 
can and  foreign  costs  on  fabrics  made  in  the  United  States.  This  is 
now  supplemented  with  costs  on  foreign-made  goods  of  the  type  wliich 
we  import.  In  the  one  case  we  haye  sliown  the  cost  on  American 
goods  if  made  abroad.  In  the  following  section  is  shown,  on  such 
fabrics  as  we  import,  first,  the  cost  of  production  in  the  foreign  mill 
making  the  goods;  secondly;  the  cost  of  these  imported  goods  it  made 
in  American  mills.  For  this  purpose  a  number  of  high-grade,  finely 
finished  foreign  samples,  made  in  German  mills,  were  submitted  with 
the  foreign-loom  analysis  to  a  niunber  of  American  mills  for  estimates 
on  the  cost  of  producmg  the  same  fabrics  in  their  own  mills.  In  other 
words,  the  same  methods  were  adopted  to  secure  American  costs  on 
German  fabrics  as  had  been  used  m  securing  American  and  foreign 
costs  on  American  samples;  and  for  this  purpose  German  fabrics  of 
first-class  material  and  liiglirgrade  finish — ^such  as  are  more  commonly 
imported — were  utilized.  The  estimates  of  American  mills  on  these 
cloths  were  based  upon  a  full  analysis;  the  character  of  the  finish  was 
shown  by  actual  samples.  In  aO  cases  the  conyersion  cost  is  the  cost 
from  yarn  to  finished  cloth. 

The  results  are  submitted  below: 

Sample  A, 

Men's  worsted  suiting,  58  inches  wide,  weighing  12.6  ounces  to  the 
yard.  Tlie  actual  loom  analysis  shows  4,200  warp  ends  of  2-ply 
worsted  yarn  No.  46  on  a  reed  width  of  72  inches,  shrinking  to  58 
inches  in  the  finished  cloth.  It  is  slub  or  top  dyed.  The  weft  j;am 
is  a  twist  of  No.  28  and  No.  46  worsted  yam,  and  there  are  55  picks 
to  the  inch,  or  1,980  picks  to  the  yard. 

German  miUs. — Our  figiKes  show  the  cost  in  Germany  on  this 
fabric  to  be  as  follows: 

.  The  yam  stock  cost  is  $0,782  per  yard  of  finished  cloth.  The 
manufacturing  or  conversion  cost  is  $0,283  per  yard,  making  a  total 
cost  of  $1,065  per  yard.  The  selling  expense  is  5.431  cents  per  yard, 
making  a  total  cost  of  the  goods  sold  of  $1,119.  The  net  seUing  price 
of  the  goods  at  the  factory  is  $1.25  per  yard. 

The  weaving  expense  is  6.66  cents  per  yard;  the  finishing  expense 
is  10.887  cents  per  yard  of  cloth. 

The  weaver's  rate  |>er  yard  in  the  raw  is  5.19  cents,  or  2.62  cents 
per  1,000  picks.  It  is  one-loom  work.  Tlie  sample  submitted  was 
made  as  one-loom  work.  On  a  75-pick  loom  an  average  weaver  in 
the  mill  will  produce  20  yards  in  a  day  and  earn  $1.04.  It  should  be 
noted,  however,  that  on  100-pick  looms  the  one-loom  rate  for  the 
same  fabric  is  2.28  cents  per  1,000  picks;  the  two-loom  rate  for 
75-pick  looms  is  1.74  cents  per  1,000  picks;  and  the  two-loom  rate 
on  lOO-pjick  looms  is  1.52  cents  per  1,000  picks.  This  last  is  the  rate 
with  wliich  to  compare  the  American  rate. 

American  mills. — The  yarn  stock  cost  per  yard  of  finished  cloth 
on  this  sample  is  $1,215  in  an  American  mill. 

From  our  figures  the  American  conversion  cost,  from  yam  to  fin- 
ished cloth,  on  this  fabric  may  be  taken  as  $0,495  per  yard.  This 
includes  selling  expense,  making  a  total  cost  of  the  cloth  sold  of  $1.71 


per  yard.  The  weave-room  expense  per  finished  yard  is  5.9  cents; 
the  finisliing  cost  is  19.9  cents  per  yard. 

The  weaver's  rate  is  2.6  cents  per  1,000  picks,  or  5.2  cents  per  yard 
in  the  raw  on  two-loom  work. 

The  German  factory  cost  is  $1,065,  or,  including  seUing  expense, 
$1,119  per  yard;  the  American  cost  is  $1.71.  Tlie  German  selling 
price  is  $1.25  net  f.  o.  b.  mill.     The  present  tariff  is  $1.02  per  yard. 

Sample  B, 

Men's  worsted  suitins:,  58  inches  wide,  weighing  14.8  ounces  to 
the  yard.  The  actual  loom  analysis  shows  4,200  warp  ends  on  a 
reexl  width  of  72  inches.  The  warp  is  of  2-ply  46's  and  a  28  and  46 
twisted  together.  The  weft  is  a  28  and  a  46  yam  twisted  together. 
There  are  55  picks  to  the  inch. 

German  rmlls. — Our  figures  show  the  cost  in  Germany  on  this 
fabric  to  be  as  follows:  The  yam  stock  cost  per  yard  of  finished  cloth 
is  $0.8908.  The  manufacturing  or  conversion  cost,  including  general 
expense,  but  exclusive  of  selling  expense,  is  $0.2776  cents  per  yard, 
making  a  total  factory  cost  of  $1,168  per  yard.  The  selling  and 
administrative  expense  is  5.43  cents  per  yard,  making  a  cost  of 
$1,222  for  this  cloth  finished  and  sold.  The  net  selling  price  f.  o.  b. 
mill  is  $1.34  per  yard.  The  weave-room  expense  is  6.34  cents  per 
yard;  the  finishing  expense  is  10.6  cents  per  yard. 

The  weaver's  one  75-pick  loom  rate  in  the  raw  is  2.62  cents  per 
1,000  picks,  or  5.19  cents  per  yard.  On  one-loom  work  and  on  one 
75-pick  loom  a  weaver  will  produce  20  yards  in  a  day.  The  two-loom 
rate  on  75-pick  looms  is  1.74  cents  per  1,000  picks,  or  3.4  cents  per 
yard.  The  100-pick  loom  rate  is  2.28  cents  per  1,000  picks  for  one 
loom,  and  1.52  cents  per  1,000  picks  for  two-loom  work.  Since  there 
are  essentiaUv  2,000  picks  in  a  yard,  the  yardaore  rate  would  be  twice 
this  amount. 

American  mills. — The  cost  of  the  yarn  stock  per  yard  of  finished 
cloth  in  an  American  mill  is  $1.36. 

From  our  figures  the  American  conversion  cost,  from  yam  to 
finished  cloth,  on  this  fabric  may  be  taken  as  $0.50  per  yard,  making 
a  total  cloth  cost  of  $1.86  per  yard.  The  weave-room  cost  is  10.25 
cents  per  yard. 

The  weaver's  two-loom  rate  is  6.7  cents  per  yard  in  the  raw. 

The  German  cost  on  this  sample  at  the  factory  is  $1,168  per  yard; 
the  American  cost,  as  shown  by  the  estimate  above,  is  $1.86  per 
yard.     The  German  selling  price  f.  o.  b.  mill  is  $1.34. 

The  present  import  duty  on  this  cloth  is  $1.13  per  yard. 

Sample  C. 

Black  drape  worsted,  58  inches  wide,  weighing  13.5  ounces  to  the 
yard.  It  is  piece  dyed.  The  actual  loom  analysis  shows  10,725  warp 
ends  on  a  reed  width  of  72  inches,  shrinking  to  58  inches  in  the 
finished  cloth.  The  warp  is  2-ply  worsted  yarn  No.  85.  The  weft 
is  single  43 's  worsted  yarn,  and  there  are  91  picks  to  the  inch. 

German  mills. — Our  figures  show  the  cost  in  Germany  on  this  fabric 
to  be  as  follows: 

The  yarn-stock  cost  of  material  entering  into  this  cloth  is  $0.9795. 
The  total  conversion  cost  is  48.85  cents  per  yard,  making  a  total 


I'l 


696 


BEPOKT  OF  TAKIFF  BOABD   02^   SCHEDULE   K. 


factory  cost  of  11.468  per  yard  exclusive  of  administrative  and  selling 
expense.  These  add  5.43  cents  per  yard,  making  a  total  cost  of  the 
goods  sold  II  .522 ;  the  price  net  at  the  mill  is  $1 .60.  The  weave-room 
cost  on  this  sample  is  11.8  cents  per  yard,  finishing  is  14.3  cents  per 
yard,  and  piece  dyeing  4.7  cents  per  yard. 

The  weaver's  rate  is  2.69  cents  per  1,000  picks,  or  8.81  cents  per 
yard  in  the  raw.  As  one-loom  work  and  on  a  75-pick  loom  a  weaver 
will  produce  12  yards  in  a  day.  This  cloth  is  never  put  on  looms  run- 
ning at  a  high  speed  in  the  factory  making  the  sample.  However, 
when  a  weaver  operates  two  looms,  the  rate  on  this  cloth  is  1.79 
cents  per  1,000  picks,  or  5.86  cents  per  yard. 

American  miUs, — The  yarn  stock  cost  per  yard  of  finished  cloth  is 
$1,462  in  an  American  mill.  From  our  figures  the  American  conver- 
sion cost  from  yarn  to  finished  cloth  on  the  fabric  mav  be  taken  as 
78.42  cents  per  yard,  including  administrative  and  selHng  expense, 
making  a  total  cost  of  goods  at  the  factory,  but  sold,  of  $2.2462.  The 
weave  room  cost  is  13.4  cents  per  yard;  the  finishing  cost  is  22  cents 
peryard,  and  piece-dyeing  cost  is  8.9  cents  per  jrard. 

The  weaving  rate  is  3.35  cents  per  1,000  picks,  or  10.97  cents 
per  yard  in  the  raw.  This  in  the  United  States  would  always  be 
one-loom  work,  and  it  is  doubtful  whether  looms  of  over  90  picks 
would  be  used  on  such  material;  on  such  a  loom  15  to  17  yards  would 
be  a  good  day's  work  for  a  weaver. 

Bnefly,  the  German  cost  on  this  sample  is  $1,468  as  a  factory  cost. 
$1,522  including  selling  expense,  with  a  selling  price  at  the  mill  of 
$1.60  per  yard.  The  American  cost,  including  selling  expense,  is 
$2^462.    The  present  tariff  duty  on  this  cloth  is  $1.25  per  yard. 

Sample  D, 

Men's  fine  worsted  cloth,  58  inches  wide,  weighing  16.4  ounces 
to  the  yard.  It  is  piece-dyed:  The  actual  loom  analysis  shows 
7,800  warp  ends  on  a  69-inch  reed,  shrinking  to  58  inches  in  the  fin- 
ished cloth.  The  warp  is  of  single-ply  worsted  31s  yam  left  twist. 
The  filling  is  woolen  yarn,  single  ply  Hi,  and*  there  are  58  picks  to 

the  inch.  ..... 

German  miUs, — Our  figures  show  the  cost  in  Germany  on  this  fabnc 

to  be  as  foUows: 

The  yarn  material  for  this  sample  costs  $0,838.  The  conversion 
cost  is  43.6  cents  per  yard,  making  a  total  factory  cost  of  $1,274  per 
yard.  The  administrative  and  seUing  expense  is  10.8  cents  per 
yard,  making  a  total  cost  of  the  goods  sold,  but  at  the  factory,  of 
$1,382.  That  the  administrative  and  selling  expense  here  includes 
a  profit  is  evidenced  by  the  fact  that  tliis  gives  a  cost  price  precisely 
equal  to  the  seUing  price  at  the  mill.  Tliis  rate  of  10.8  cents  for 
administrative  and  selling  expense  is  just  tmco  the  general  cost  of 
this  item  as  %ured  on  most  of  the  goods  produced  by  the  mill.  If 
we  give  the  imll  the  average  of  selling^  and  administrative  cost,  it 
would  be  a  total  cost  here  of  $1,328.  The  net  selling  price  is  $1.38. 
The  weave  room  expense  is  6.83  cents  per  yard;  the  finisliing  cost  is 
18.4  cents  per  yard;  the  piece-dyeing  cost  is  5.9  cents  per  vard. 

The  weaver*s  rate  in  the  loom  is  2.62  cents  per  thousand  picks,  or 
5.47  cents  per  yard  in  the  raw.  It  is  one-loom  work,  and  an  average 
weaver  will  produce  18.7  yards  per  day  of  10  hours  on  a  75-pick 


^i-i. 


iiati 


iJiTl 


REPORT  OF   TARIFF   BOARD   ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


*  '^'ni versify 


loom.    Fast  looms  are  not  commonly  used  on  this  sample,  nor  is 
this  cloth  usually  made  as  two-loom  work.    A  weaver,  however 
might  operate  two  looms,  one  running  on  this  cloth,  another  on  an 
easier  weave,  in  which  case  the  rate  would  be  1.74  cents  per  1  000 
picks,  or  3.63  cents  per  yard. 

American  7mUs.~The  yarn  stock  cost  of  material  for  a  yard  of 
this  sample  in  an  American  mill  is  $1.4433.  From  our  figures  the 
American  conversion  cost  from  yam  to  finished  cloth  on  this  fabric, 
exclusive  of  selling  expense  but  including  general  expense,  may  be 
^ken  as  71  cents  per  yard,  making  a  total  cost  of  $2.1533  per  yard. 
The  sellmg  expense  being  estimated  at  8  cents  per  yard,  the  cost  of 
this  fabric  at  the  factory,  but  sold,  is  $2.2333.  The  weave  room 
expense  is  7.4  cents  per  yard  of  finished  cloth;  the  fini«Tiing  expense 
21.2  cents,  and  piece  dyeing  12.8  cents  peryard. 

The  weaver's  rate  is  3  cents  per  thousand  picks,  or  6.26  cents  pep 
yard  in  the  raw.  Tliis  is  a  two-loom  rate,  comparable  with  the  3.48 
cents  per  yard  rate  in  German  mills.  On  two  looms  a  weaver  will 
produce  25  yards  in  a  day. 

Summarizing,  the  German  cost  on  this  sample  is  $1,274  as  a  factory 
cost;  $1,328  sold.  The  net  selling  price  is  $1.38.  The  Americai 
cost,  includmg  selling  expense,  is  $2.2333.  The  present  tariff  duty 
on  this  cloth  is  $1.21  per  yard. 

Sam-ple  E. 

This  is  a  fancy  worsted,  58  inches  wide,  weighing  15.5  ounces  to 
the  yard.  It  is  yarn  dyed,  or  wool  dyed.  The  actual  loom  analysis 
shows  3,750  warp  ends  on  a  reed  ^idth  of  68  inches.  The  warp  is 
two-ply  worsted  yam  number  46  and  two-ply  worsted  yam  number 
28  twisted  together.  The  weft  is  of  the  same  character  of  yams,  and 
there  are  51  picks  to  the  inch,  1,836  picks  to  the  yard. 

German  mills.^Our  figures  show  the  cost  in  Germany  on  this 
fabnc  to  be  as  follows: 

The  yarn  material  costs  $0,829  per  yard  of  cloth.  The  conversion 
cost  IS  $0,246  peryard,  making  a  total  factory  cost  of  $1,075  peryard. 
1  he  sellmg  expense  is  5.4  cents  per  yard,  making  the  total  cost  of  the 
goods  sold  but  not  dehvered  $1,129  per  yard.  The  seUing  price- 
1  \  '  ^^  ^^  ^^  .36  per  yard.  The  weaving  cost  per  yard  of  finished 
cloth  IS  4.7  cents,  the  finishing  cost  is  10.9  cents  per  yard. 

The  weaver's  rate  in  this  case  was  2.45  cents  per  1,000  picks,  or  4  5 
cents  per  yard  as  a  single  loom  rate  on  a  100-pick  loom.  A  weaver 
®^  s"^^^  f  ^?^F^  ^^^  produce  23  yards  in  a  day  of  10  hours. 

Ilus  cloth  IS  woven  indiscrinunately  as  one  or  tv/o  loom  work  and 

^^  ^?  ^L-^^^  ?^^^  ^^^^^-  "^^^  ^'^^®  ^^  ^^e  75-pick  loom  is  2.81  cents 
per  1,000  picks;  on  two  75-pick  looms,  1.88  cents  per  1,000  picks. 
Ihe  rate  on  one  100-pick  loom  is  2.45  cents  per  1,000  picks:  on  two 
100-pick  looms,  1.64  cents  per  1,000  picks. 

American  miUs,— The  cost  of  the  yam  material  enteiins  into  this 
cloth  IS  $1.15.  ^ 

•  i.'^T^  ^i"^  figures  the  American  conversion  cost,  from  yam  to  fin- 
ished cloth,  on  this  fabric  may  be  taken  as  $0.4126  per  yard  making 
a  total  cloth  cost  of  $1 .5626  per  yard.  The  weaving  cost  per  finished 
yard  is  7.6  cents. 


698 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


The  weaYer's  rate  per  yard  in  the  raw  is  7.3  cents.  This  would 
ordiiiaiil^r  be  one-loom  work,  and  a  weaver  would  ordinarily  produce 
25  yards  in  a  day. 

Briefly,  the  German  factory  cost  on  this  sample  is  $1,075  per 
yard,  or,  sold  and  ready  for  delivery,  $1 .129  per  yard.  The  f .  o.  b.  mill 
price  is  $1.36.    The  American  cost  is  $1.5626  per  yard. 

The  present  tarii!  duty  on  this  cloth  m  $1.16  per  yard. 

Samph  F. 

This  is  a  men's  heavy  blue  serge,  57  inches  wide,  weighing  17.7 
ounces  to  the  yard.  It  is  wool  dyed.  The  actual  loom  analysis 
shows  3,200  warp  ends  on  a  reed  width  of  70  inches,  shrinking  to  67 
inches  in  the  finished  cloth.  The  warp  is  2-ply  worsted  yarn,  No.  22. 
The  weft  is  of  the  same  material,  and  there  are  51  picks  to  the  inch, 
or  1,836  picks  to  the  yard. 

German  mills. — Our  figures  show  the  cost  in  Germany  on  this  fabric 
to  be  as  foDows: 

The  yarn  stock  material  costs  $0.9714  per  yard.  The  conversion 
cost  is  $0.3698  per  yard,  making  a  total  factory  cost  of  $1,341  per 
yard.  Administrative  cost  and  selling  expense  add  5.4  cents  to  this, 
making  a  cost  of  $1,395  per  yard  of  cloth  sold  but  not  delivered. 
The  net  selling  price  is  $1.57 -per  yard.  The  weave-room  expense  is 
5.147  cents  per  yard;  the  finishing  cost  is  20.8  cents  per  yard. 

The  weaver's  one-loom  rate  on  75-j)ick  looms  is  2.57  cents  per  1,000 
picks,  or  4.72  cents  per  yard  of  cloth  in  the  raw.  The  average  weaver 
will  produce  22  yards  in  a  day.  Only  75-pick  looms  are  used  in  the 
manufacture  of  this  cloth,  but  where  a  weaver  is  operating  two  75- 
pick  looms,  whether  or  not  both  are  being  operated  upon  tliis  particu- 
lar kind  of  cloth,  the  rate  is  1.71  cents  per  1,000  picks,  or  3.14  cents 
per  yard. 

American  miHs.— The  cost  of  the  yam  stock  material  on  this  sam- 
ple is  $1,655  per  yard  of  finished  cloth. 

From  our  figures  the  American  conversion  cost,  from  yarn  to  fin- 
ished cloth  on  this  fabric  may  be  taken  as  $0,666  per  yard,  making  a 
total  cloth  cost  of  $2,321  per  yard. 

The  weaver's  rate  is  6.3  cents  per  yard  in  the  raw.    It  is  two-loom 

The  German  cost  on  this  sample  is  $1.34  as  a  factory  cost;  $1,395 
sold.  The  net  factory  price  is  $1 .57  per  yard.  The  American  factory 
cost  is  $2,321  per  yard. 

The  present  rate  of  duty  on  this  cloth  is  $1.33  per  yard. 

Sample  G. 

Men's  blue  serge,  57  inches  wide,  weighing  14.8  ounces  to  the 
yard.  The  actual  loom  analysis  shows  5.680  warp  ends  on  a  reed 
width  of  67  inches,  slirinkmg  to  57  inches  in  the  fimshed  cloth.  Tlie 
warp  is  two-ply  worsted  yam  No.  44.  Tlie  weft  is  of  the  same  mate- 
rial, and  there  are  81  picks  to  the  inch,  or  2,916  picks  to  the  jard. 

German  mUls.— Our  figures  show  the  cost  in  Germany  on  this  fabric 
to  be  as  follows  i 

The  yam  stock  for  a  yard  of  this  cloth  costs  $0.8392.  The  con- 
version cost  is  31.48  cents  per  yard,  making  a  total  factory  cost  of 


BEPORT  OP  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


699 


I 


$1,154.  There  is  a  selling  and  administrative  expense  of  5.4  cents 
per  yard,  making  the  cloth  cost,  sold  at  the  factory,  $1,208.  The 
net  selhng  price  of  the  cloth  is  $1.44  f.  o.  b.  mill.  The  weave-room 
expense  per  yard  of  finished  cloth  is  6.81  cents,  and  the  cost  of  fin- 
ishing is  13.78  cents  per  yard. 

The  weaver's  rate  is  2.05  cents  per  1,000  picks,  or  5.98  cents  per 
yard  in  the  raw.  The  sample  is  woven  on  a  100-pick  loom,  one  loom 
being  attended  by  each  weaver.  The  average  weaver  will  produce 
17.2  yards  per  day  of  10  hours.  Tiiis  sample  has  a  two-loom  rate  of 
1.36  cents  per  1,000  picks  on  100-pick  looms.  There  is  also  a  75-pick 
loom  rate  of  2.33  cents  per  1,000  picks  as  a  one-loom  rate,  and  1.55 
cents  per  1,000  picks  as  a  two  75-pick  loom  rate. 

American  mills. — Tlie  stock-yam  material  for  a  yard  of  this  fabric 
in  an  American  mill  costs  $1.4509.  From  our  figures  the  American 
conversion  cost  from  yarn  to  finished  cloth  on  this  fabric  may  be 
taken  as  52.69  cents  per  yard,  making  a  total  factory  cost  of  $1.9778. 
The  total  weaving  expense  is  11.3  cents  per  finished  yard. 

Tlie  weaving  rate  is  10.1  cents  per  yard  in  the  raw.  This  is  a  one- 
loom  rate,  and  20  yards  would  be  a  good  day's  work  for  a  weaver. 
Briefly,  the  German  factory  cost  on  this  cloth  is  $1,154;  the  cost 
of  the  goods  sold,  but  not  dehvered^  is  $1,208;  the  net  cash  selhng 
pnce  f.  o.  b.  mill  is  $1.44.  The  American  cost  on  this  cloth  is  $1  9778. 
The  present  tariff  duty  on  this  sample  is  $1.18  per  yard. 

Sample  IL 

,   liight-weight,  skein-dyed,  fancy  worsted,  58  inches  wide,  weWh- 
mg  9.3  ounces  to  the  yard.     The  actual  loom  analysis  shows  3  680 
warp  ends  on  a  reed  width  of  69  inches,  shrinking  to  58  in  the  finished 
cloth.     Both  warp  and  weft  are  of  two-ply  worsted  yarn  No   46 
There  are  47  picks  to  the  inch,  or  1,692  picks  to  the  yard. 

German  mills. — Our  figures  show  the  cost  in  Germany  on  this 
fabric  to  be  as  follows: 

The  yarn  material  used  in  tliis  sample  costs  $0.5597  per  yard  in 
German  mills.  Tlie  manufacturing  or  conversion  cost  is  28.56  cents 
per  yard,  making  a  total  factory  cost  of  $0.8453  per  finished  yard 
exclusive  of  selling  expense,  which  adds  5.44  cents  per  yard,  making- 
a  net  cost  of  the  cloth  sold,  but  not  delivered,  of  $0.8997.  The  sellini 
price  net  f.  o.  b.  mifl  is  $1.06  per  yard.  The  weaving  cost  on  th^ 
sample  is  5.6  cents  per  yard;  finishmg  cost  is  10.9  cents  per  yard 

The  weavmg  rate  is  2.81  cents  per  1,000  picks  on  a  single  75-pick 
loom,  or  4.75  cents  per  yard.  On  a  75-pick  loom  an  average  weaver 
will  produce  21.6  yards  per  day  of  10  hours. 

The  two  75-pick  loom  rate  is  1.88  cents  per  thousand  picks.  The 
rate  on  one  loom  of  100  picks  a  mmute  efficiency  is  2.45  cents  per 
1,000  picks,  and  the  two-loom  rate  on  1 00-pick  looms  is  1.64  cents 
per  1,000  picks. 

American  miUs.— The  yam  material  for  a  yard  of  this  cloth  costs, 
in  American  miUs,  $0,878.  From  our  figures  the  American  conver- 
sion cost  from  yarn  to  finished  cloth  on  this  fabric  may  be  taken  as 
47  cents  per  yard,  making  a  total  factory  cost  of  $1,348  per  yard. 
The  cost  at  the  factory,  includmg  selling  expense,  is  $1,398  per  yard. 

The  two-loom  weavmg  rate  is  2.6  cents  per  1,000  picks,  or  4.4 
cents  per  yard.    No  one-loom  rate  was  reported,  and  this  rate  should 


700 


EEPORT  OF   TABIFF  BOAKD   ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


properly  be  compared  with  the  two  100-pick  loom  rate,  which  la 
1.64  cents  per  1,000  picks,  or  2.77  cents  per  yard. 

The  Gernian  factory  cost  is  $0,845,  or  mcludmg  selling  expense 
$0.8997.  The  f .  o.  b.  factory  price  is  $1 .06.  The  American  factory 
cost  is  $1,348,  or  including  seUing  expense  $1,398.  The  present 
tariff  on  this  cloth  is  $0.83  a  yard. 

Sample  L 

Unfinished  black  worsted,  58  mches  wide,  weighing  13.5  ounces 
to  the  yard.  The  actual  loom  analysis  shows  4  100  warp  ends  on  an 
81-inch  reed,  shrinking  to  58  inches  in  the  finished  cloth  The  w^^ 
is  a  single  32  and  45  twisted  together  for  3,890  ends,  whde  270  ends 
are  two^ly  worsted  yam  No.  75.  The  weft  is  a  32  and  a  45  twisted 
together!    There  axe  51  picks  to  the  inch,  or  1,836  picks  to  the  yard. 

^^G€^n^IiU^^--OuT  figures  show  the  cost  m  Germany  on  thia 

fabric  to  be  as  follows:  #  /»  •  i     i    t  xi. 

The  stock  yam  material  costs  $0.7669  per  yard  of  finished  cloth. 
The  conversion  cost  is  26.51  cents  per  yard,  making  a  total  factory 
cost  of  $1,032  per  yard.  The  selling  expense  is  5.4  cente  per  yard, 
bringing  this  up  to  $1,086  as  the  cost  of  the  <=lf^«°ld  but  not  de- 
livered The  net  selling  price  f.  o.  b.  mill  is  $1.36  per  yard.  Ihe 
weave-room  expense  on  tJiis  sample  is  3.58  cents.per  yard;  the  finish- 
ing is  11.9  cents  per  yard;  and  the  piece  dyeing  is  4.7  cente  per  yard, 
^he  weaver's  rate  is  1.49  cents  per  1,000  picks,  or  2.74  cents  per 
vard  This  is  a  two-loom  rate,  and  in  the  factory  making  the  sample 
only  "the  slow,  or  75-pick,  looms  are  used  on  this  matenal.  A  weaver 
on  two  75-pick  looms  wiU  produce  37.2  yards  per  day. 

American  mms.-The  stock  material  for  a  yard  of  this  cloth  costs 
«1  156  From  our  figures  the  Amcncan  conversion  cost  from  yam 
to  finished  cloth  on  the  fabric,  including  general  expense  but  exclud- 
ing selling  expense,  may  be  taken  as  47  cents  per  yard,  mfkin- a  net 
feStory  cost  of  $1,626.  The  selling  expense  is  f  timated  to^e  6^8 
cents  per  yard,  making  a  cost  at  the  factory,  but  sold,  of  $1,684  per 

"'A,  ™™.  »,«  .or  ....  loo™  i.  2.7  c.„U  pe,  ,,000  pi*.  .,  4.« 

The  German  factory  cost  is  $1,032;  cost  sold,  but  not  delivered 
$1,086:  seUing  price  f.  o.  b.  mHl,  $1.36.    The  American  f actonr  cost 
is  $1  626:  incTulling  selhng  expense,  $1,684.     The  present  tarirf  duty 
on  this  doth  is  $1.10  a  yard. 

Sample  J. 

Fancy  worsted,  58  inches  wide,  weighing  11.3  ounces  to  the 
yard,  ^he  actual  loom  analysis  shows  4,600  warp  ends  on  a  reed 
iidth  of  67  inches.  There  are  58  picks  to  the  inch,  or  2,088  picks  to 
the  yard.  The  warp  and  weft  are  both  2-ply  worsted  yarn  No.  46. 
There  are  80  silk-effect  threads  of  2-ply  No.  200. 

German  wiZZs.— Our  figures  show  the  cost  m  Germany  on  this  f  abnc 

to  be  as  follows:  «  .  ,    ,         ■•     *    i  xi.  •;•  <&a  /^ati 

The  yarn-stock  material  for  a  finished  yard  of  cloth  i5  $0.6971. 
The  conversion  cost  is  $0.3014  per  yard,  makmg  a  total  factory  cost 


BEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  OIT   SCHEDULE  K. 


701 


\ 


of  $0.9985.  The  selling  expense  is  5.4  cents  per  yard,  making  a  total 
cost  of  the  doth  sold,  but  not  delivered,  of  $1,052  ner  yard.  The 
selling  price  f.  o.  b.  mill  is  $1.19.  The  present  taritt  duty  on  this 
cloth  is  $0.95  per  yard.  The  weaving  cost  is  6.67  cents  per  finished 
yard,  and  the  finishing  is  10.87  cents  per  yard. 

The  weaver's  rate  is  2.45  cents  per  1,000  picks,  or  5.12  per  yard,  on 
single  100-pick  looms.  On  such  looms  the  average  weaver  in  the  mill 
will  produce  20  yards  in  a  day.  The  two-loom  rate  on  100-pick 
looms  is  1.64  cents  per  1,000  picks.  On  75-pick  looms  the  one-loom 
rate  is  2.81  cents,  and  the  two-loom  rate  1.88  cents  per  1,000  picks. 

American  mills. — The  yam-stock  cost  per  yard  of  finished  cloth 
is  $0.95.  From  our  figures  the  American  conversion  cost,  from  yarn 
to  finished  cloth,  on  this  fabric  may  be  taken  as  52. 1  cents  per  yard, 
making  a  total  cost  of  $1,471  per  yard.  The  weave-room  expense 
is  9.45  cents  per  yard. 

The  exact  weaving  rate  is  not  reported. 

Sample  K. 

Fancy  worsted,  58  inches  wide,  weighing  12.6  ounces  to  the  yard. 
It  is  slub  or  top  dyed.  The  actual  loom  analysis  shows  4,250  warp 
ends  on  a  reed  width  of  73  inches,  shrinking  to  58  inches  in  the 
finished  cloth.  The  warp  yarn  is  of  2-ply  worsted  No.  46,  and  the 
weft  is  a  twist  of  No.  28  and  No.  46  worsted  yarns.  There  are  55 
picks  to  the  inch,  or  1,980  picks  to  the  yard. 

German  mills. — Our  figures  show  the  cost  in  Germany  on  this 
fabric  to  be  as  follows: 

The  yarn  cost  per  yard  of  cloth  is  $0.7592;  the  conversion  cost  is 
$0.2875  per  yard,  making  a  total  factory  cost  of  $1,047  per  yard.  The 
selling  expense  is  5.4  cents  per  yard,  making  a  net  cost  of  the  cloth 
sold  but  not  delivered,  of  $1.10  per  yard.  The  seUing  price  f.  o.  b. 
mill  is  $1.25  per  yard.  The  weaving  cost  is  6.49  cents  per  yard. 
The  finishing  cost  is  10.8  cents  per  yard. 

This  sample  was  woven  as  one-loom  work,  and  the  one-loom  rate 
on  75-pick  looms  was  2.62  cents  per  1,000  picks,  or  5.19  cents  per 
yard.^    On  one  75-pick  loom  a  weaver  will  produce  20  yards  per  day. 

This  cloth  is  woven  variously  as  one  or  two  loom  work,  and  on  75 
or  100-pick  looms.  The  one  75-pick  loom  rate  has  been  given  above. 
The  two  75-pick  loom  rate  is  1.74  cents  per  1,(500  picks.  When 
woven  on  100-pick  looms  the  rate  is  2.28  cents  for  one-loom  work,  and 
1.52  cents  per  1,000  picks  for  two-loom  work. 

American  mills. — The  yarn  material  for  a  yard  of  this  cloth  costs 
$1.26  in  American  miUs. 

From  our  figures,  the  American  conversion  cost,  from  yarn  to 
finished  cloth,  on  this  fabric  may  be  taken  as  $0,522  per  yard,  making 
a  total  cost  of  $1,782  per  yard.  The  weave-room  expense  is  7.2  cents 
per  yard.    The  finishing  cost  is  19  cents  per  yard. 

The  weaver's  two-loom. rate  is  6.7  cents  per  yard  in  the  raw.  This 
should  be  compared  with  the  two-loom  rate  on  100-pick  looms  in 
Germany,  which  is  3  cents  per  yard  in  the  raw. 

Briefly,  the  German  cost  on  this  fabric  is  $1,047  per  yard  in  the 
factoiy;  $1.10  per  yard  sold.  The  selling  price  f.  o.  b.  mill  is  $1.25 
per  yard.     The  American  factory  cost  is  $1 .782  per  yard. 

The  present  rate  of  duty  is  $1.02  per  yard. 


702 


BEPOET  OP  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 

Sample  L, 


Tim  IS  a  fancy  blue  serge,  58  inches  wide,  weighing  10.3  ounces  to 
tno  yard.  Ihe  actual  loom  analysis  shows  5,800  warp  ends  on  a 
reed  width  of  67  inches,  shrinking  to  58  inches  in  the  finished  cloth. 
1  he  warp  is  2-ply  worsted  yam  No.  62,  and  2-ply  No.  46:  5,232  ends 
of  the  former  and  568  ends  of  the  latter.  The  weft  is  2-ply  No  62 
except  the  stnpe,  which  is  2-ply  No.  46.  There  are  74  picks  to  tiie 
inch,  2,664  picks  to  the  yard. 

i     German  milk, —Our  figures  show  the  cost  in  Germany  on  this  fabric 
to  D«  as  follows; 

f  The  yam  material  for  a  yard  of  cloth  costs  $0,689.  The  conversion 
cost  is  $0.31  per  yard,  making  a  total  factory  cost  of  $0,999  per  yard. 
The  selhnff  expense  is  5.4  cents  per  yard,  making  a  total  cost  of  the 
goods  sold  but  not  delivered  of  $1,053  per  yard.  The  seUing  price 
f.  o.  b.  mill  IS  $1.23  per  yard.  The  weaving  cost  per  yard  of  finished 
cloth  IS  6.3  cents;  the  cost  of  finishing  is  14.2  cents  per  yard. 
i  This  sample  was  woven  on  75-pick  looms,  two  looms  to  the  weaver, 
and  the  two-loom  rate  is  1.74  cents  per  1,000  picks,  or  4.64  cents  per 
yard.  On  two  75-pick  looms  an  average  weaver  will  produce  22  1 
yards  per  day  of  10  hours. 

This  cloth  may  be  woven  indiscriminately  as  one  or  two  loom  work 
and  on  75  or  100  pick  looms,  as  the  convenience  or  necessity  of  the 
estabhshment  may  require.  On  100-pick  looms  tlie  one-loom  rate 
IS  2.28  cents  per  1,000  picks;  the  two-loom  rate  is  1.52  cents  per 
1,000  picks.  On  75-pick  looms  the  one-loom  rate  is  2.62  cents  per 
1,000  picks,  and  the  two-loom  rate  is  1.74  cents  per  1,000  picks. 

As  there  are  2,664  picks  in  a  yard,  the  yard  rate  at  any  of  the 
foregomg  rates  may  be  readily  calculated. 

AmeT%can  miUs,— The  yarn-stock  cost  per  yard  of  cloth  is  $1.08. 
•  !_  1  ^  ^^^  figures,  the  American  conversion  cost,  from  yam  to  fin- 
ished cloth,  on  this  fabric  may  be  taken  as  $0,558  per  yard,  making 
a  total  cloth  cost  of  $1,638  per  yard.  *-     ^       »  *> 

The  weaving  cost  is  9.56  cents  per  yard,  and  the  weaver's  rate  is 
8.14  cents  per  yard  in  the  raw. 

The  German  cost  is  $0,999  per  vard  as  a  factory  cost,  $1,053  as 
the  total  cost  sold,  but  not  dehvercd.  The  selling  price  is  $1.23  per 
yard.     The  American  cost  is  $1,638  per  yard. 

The  present  tariff  duty  is  $0.94  per  yard  on  this  cloth. 

Sample  M, 

Fancy  worsted,  58  inches  wide,  weighing  14.8  ounces  to  the  yard. 
It  IS  slub  or  top  dyed.  The  actual  loom  analysis  shows  4,255  warp 
ends  of  two-ply  worsted  yam  number  46,  and  a  twist  of  28  and  46 
yams.  The  weft  is  number  28  and  number  46  worsted  yams  twisted 
together,  and  there  are  55  picks  to  the  inch,  1,980  picks  to  the  yard. 

German  miUs.—Our  figures  show  the  cost  in  Germany  on  this  fabric 
to  be  as  follows: 

The  yam  material  costs  $0,903  per  yard;  'the  conversion,  $0,275  per 
yard,  making  a  total  factory  cost  of  $1,178  per  yard.  The  selling 
expense  is  5.4  cents  per  yard,  making  the  cost  of  \he  cloth  sold  but 
not  delivered  $1,232  per  yard.  The  selling  price  f.  o.  b.  mill  is  $1.34 
per  yard.  The  weave-room  cost  per  yard  of  finished  cloth  on  this 
sample  is  6.43  cents;  the  cost  of  the  finishing  is  10.9  cents  per  yard. 


BEPOET  OF   TARIFF  BOAED  OlST   SCHEDULE  K. 


703 


In  this  particular  case  this  sample  was  woven  as  one-loom  work 
on  75-pick  looms,  and  the  weaver's  rate  was  2.62  cents  per  1,000 
picks,  or  5.19  cents  per  yard  of  woven  cloth  in  the  raw.  On  one  75- 
pick  loom  the  average  weaver  will  produce  19.8  yards  per  day. 

This  cloth  may  be  woven  either  as  one  or  two  loom  work.  On 
75-pick  looms  the  one-loom  rate  is  2.62  cents,  and  the  two-loom  rate 
1.74  cents  per  1,000  picks.  On  100-pick  looms  the  one-loom  rate  is 
2.28  cents,  and  the  two-loom  rate  1.52  cents  per  1,000  picks. 

American  mills. — ^The  yarn  stock  cost  per  yard  is  $1.36. 

From  our  %ures,  the  American  conversion  cost,  from  yam  to 
finished  cloth,  on  this  fabric  may  be  taken  as  $0,486,  making  a  total 
cloth  cost  of  $1,846  per  yard.  The  weaving  cost  per  yard  of  finished 
cloth  is  7.8  cents. 

The  weaver's  rate  is  7.2  cents  per  yard  in  the  raw  for  two-loom 
work.  The  rate  which  should  be  compared  with  this  is  the  two- 
loom  rate  on  100-pick  looms,  which  is  1.52  cents  per  1,000  picks,  or 
3  cents  ner  yard  in  the  raw. 

The  (jremian  cost  on  this  sample  is  $1,178  per  yard  as  a  factory 
cost  and  $1.23  per  yard  as  the  cost  ready  to  deliver.  The  selling 
price  is  $1.34.  The  American  cost  on  this  sample  is  $1,846  per  yard. 
The  difference  in  factory  costs,  including  materials,  is  $0,668. 

At  the  present  rate  of  tariff  duty  this  cloth  pays  $1.13  per  yard. 

Sample  N. 

Fancy  worsted,  58  inches  wide,  weighing  13.9  ounces  to  the 
yard.  It  is  yarn  or  wool  dyed.  The  actual  loom  analysis  shows 
6,480  warp  ends  on  a  reed  width  of  67  inches.  The  warp  is  2-ply 
worsted  3^arn  No.  46;  the  weft  is  2-i)ly  worsted  yarn  No.  46. 
There  are  51  picks  to  the  inch,  or  1,836  picks  to  the  yard. 

German  muLs, — Our  figures  show  the  cost  in  Grermany  on  this  fabric 
to  be  as  follows: 

The  yarn  cost  per  yard  of  cloth  is  $0,897,  The  conversion  cost  is 
25.7  cents  per  yard,  making  a  total  factory  cost  of  $1,154  per  yard. 
The  selling  expense  is  5.4  cents  per  yard,  making  a  total  cost  of  the 
cloth,  sola  but  not  delivered,  of  $1,208  per  yard.  The  selling  price 
f.  o,  b.  mill  is  $1.30  per  yard.  The  weavmg  cost  of  the  finished  cloth 
is  5.07  cents;  the  finishing  cost  is  10.9  cents  per  yard. 

The  weaver's  rate  on  two-loom  work  is  1.74  cents  per  1,000 
picks,  or  3.19  cents  per  yard  in  the  raw.  This  is  on  75-pick  looms, 
and  a  weaver  will  produce  32  yards  per  day  of  10  hours. 

This  cloth  may  oe  woven  either  as  one  or  two  loom  work.  The 
one-loom  rate  is  2.62  cents  per  1,000  picks  on  75-pick  looms,  or  2.28 
cents  per  1,000  picks  on  100-pick  looms.  The  two-loom  rate  is  1.74 
cents  per  1,000  picks  on  75-pick  looms,  and  1.52  cents  per  1,000  picks 
on  100-pick  looms. 

American  mills. — The  cost  of  the  yarn  material  per  yard  of  finished 
goods  is  $1.26.  From  our  figures  the  American  conversion  cost  from 
yam  to  finished  cloth  on  this  fabric  may  be  taken  as  46.8  cents  per 
yard,  making  a  total  cost  of  $1,728  per  yard.  The  weaving  expense 
per  yard  is  9.6  cents. 

The  weaver's  rate  is  5.28  cents  per  yard  as  a  two-loom  rate,  or 
9.14  cents  as  a  one-loom  rate. 


704 


EEPOET  OF  TAKIFF  BOAKD  OK  SCHEDULE   K. 


Briefly,  the  German  cost  on  this  sample  is  $1.15  per  yard  as  a 
factory  cost;  $1,208  a  yard  as  the  cost  up  to  delivery.  The  selling 
price  IS  $1.30  a  yard  at  the  mill.    The  American  cost  is  $1,728  a  yard! 

Cards  containing  samples  of  aU  tlie  cloths  just  described,  and  giving 
details  of  construction,  are  included  in  this  report,  and  accompany  it  for 
ih€  use  of  Congress,  ^     '  -^ 

^  The  accompanying  tahle  presents  a  stimmaiy  of  the  information 
just  given  in  detail  in  relation  to  comparative  convereion  costs  in 
Germany  and  America: 

Comparative  conversion  costs,  from  yam  to  finished  cloth  on  German-made  fabrics. 


Sample  No. 


A. 

B. 
C. 
D. 

E. 
F. 
O. 

n. 
I.. 

J., 

K. 

L. 

N.' 


Kind  of  cloth. 


Worsted  suiting 

do 

Black  drape  worsted. 

Fine  worsted 

Fancy  worsted 

Men's  tieavy  serge. . . 

Men's  serge 

Fancy  worsted 

Unfinished  Avorsted . . 

Fancy  worsted 

do., 

Fancy  serge 

Fancy  worsted 

— do 


German. 


Ameri- 
can. 


SO. 


283 
278 
488 
436 
246 
370 
315 


.265 

.301 

.288 

.31 

.275 

.267 


SO.  495 
.50 
.784 
.71 
.413 
.666 
.627 
.47 
.47 
.521 
.523 
.558 
.486 
.468 


RELATIVE   PRICES. 

The  board  now  presents  certain  comparable  prices  of  cloths  made 
m  England  and  similar  cloths  made  in  this  country.  A  collection  of 
representative  samples  was  made  in  England  of  fabrics  ranging  from 
those  wliich  are  not  imported  because  of  a  prohibitive  duty  to  those 
winch  are  imported  continually.  These  were  then  matched  with  a 
collection  of  samples  of  American-made  cloths  wliich  are  fairly  com- 
parable, and  the  net  mill  prices  of  both  countries  compared  for  the 
same  date.  In  tliis  collection  of  samples  there  are  16  of  cloths  of 
which  there  is  no  importation,  16  of  wliich  the  miportation  is  either 
small  or  very  small,  15  of  which  the  importation  is  moderate,  and  14 
which  are  contmually  imported.  These  cloths  are  of  the  same  width, 
and  whatever  difference  there  is  in  weight  between  the  Enghsh  and 
Amencan  fabnc  is  given  in  the  table.  In  this  table  there  is  given.the 
type  of  Enghsh  cloth;  a  statement  as  to  whether  or  not  it  is  imported, 
and  if  so,  to  what  extent;  the  English  net  mill  price;  the  duty  which 
It  would  pay  if  imported;  what  would  be  the  English  price  plus  the 
duty;  and  the  net  mill  price  of  an  identical  or  similar  fabric  of 
Amencan  make. 

Cards  containing  samples  of  the  English  and  compamUe  American 
fabrics,  side  hj  side,  are  included  in  this  repoH,  and  accompany  it,  for 
the  use  oj  Congress. 


REPORT   OF   TARIFF   BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


705 


Relative  net  mill 

prices 

of  English  cloths  and  similar  American  fabrics. 

Sam- 

Imports. 

price. 

Duty. 

Eng- 
lish 
price 
plus 
duty. 

United 
States 
price. 

Eng- 
lish 
weight- 

Ameri- 
can 
weight. 

fV»f f/»Ti-T«rar'n  snitiriff         .... 

E   1 
£   2 
E   3 
E   4 
E   5 
E   6 
E   7 
E   8 
E   9 
ElO 
Ell 
E12 
E13 
E14 
E15 
E16 
E17 
E18 
E19 
E20 
E21 
E22 
E23 
E24 
E25 
E26 
E27 
E28 
E29 
E30 
E31 
E  32 
E  33 
E  34 
E  35 
E  36 
E  37 
E  38 
E  39 
E40 
E  41 
E  42 
E  43 
E  44 
E45 
E  46 
E  47 
E  48 
E  49 
E  60 
E  51 
E52 
E  53 
E  64 
E  55 
E56 
E  57 
E58 
E  69 
E  60 
E  61 

None 

$0.12 
.167 
.17 
.187 
.19 
.20 
.20 
.22 
.23 
.24 
.24 
.24 
.38 
.40 
.46 
.54 
.341 
.42 
.44 
.85 

1.89 
.48 
.617 
.678 
.72 
.72 
%86 
.941 
.98 

1.10 

10.24 

.31 

.44 

.33 

.49 

.45 

.47 

.46 

.47 

.49 

.49 

.49 

.60 

.53 

.64 

.79 

.42 

.51 

.58 

1.09 

1.81 

.65 

.63 

.69 

.86 

.78 

.97 

1.00 

1.03 

1.32 

1.36 

1.20 

.15 

.24 

.30 

.44 

.31 

.44 

.37 

.42 

.77 

.94 

1.09 

1.09 

1.09 

1.14 

1.25 

1.03 

.99 

1.08 

1.11 

1.05 

1.20 

1.09 

1.22 

1.22 

1.09 

1.43 

1.38 

1.28 

1.47 

10.36 

.48 

.61 

.52 

.68 

.65 

.67 

.68 

.70 

.73 

.73 

.73 

.98 

.93 

1.10 

1.33 

.76 

.93 

1.02 

1.94 

3.70 

1.13 

1.25 

1.37 

1.58 

1.50 

1.83 

1.94 

2.01 

2.42 

2.54 

2.44 

.30 

.505 

.66 

.82 

.70 

.85 

.78 

.926 

1.44 

1.94 

2.17 

2.22 

2.22 

2.42 

2.57 

2.21 

2.19 

2.30 

2.33 

2.31 

2.48 

2.37 

2.58 

2.58 

2.47 

2.85 

2.88 

2.80 

3.15 

$0,205 
.24 
.335 
.24 
.335 
.335 
.335 
.335 
.335 
.335 
.335 
.335 
.50 
.575 
1.125 
1.075 
.675 
.775 
.775 
1.375 
2.875 
1.00 
1.10 
1.175 
.975 
.975 
1.55 
1.25 
1.175 
2.00 
2.25 
2.25 
.275 
.525 
.60 
.825 
.715 
.65 
.575 
.80 
1.00 
1.80 
1.65 
1.95 
2.375 
1.60 
2.15 
1.80 
1.725 
2.05 
1.80 
1.75 
2.15 
1.85 
2.375 
2.125 
1.725 
2.375 
2.325 
2.15 
3.00 

8.5 

13.5 

17 

11.5 

19 

17 

17.5 

17 

17 

18 

18 

18 

16 

16 

13 

19 
9 

11 

13 

24 

28 

14 

11 

12 

14 

13 

18 

11 

14 

28 

28 

19 
3.5 
3.5 
3.5 
9.5 
4.9 
7.6 
5 
6.5 

16 

13.5 

18 

18 

18 

16 

18 

14 

12 

15 

16 

13 

18 

14 

17 

17 

12 

20 

20 

16 

20 

7.5 

Woolen 

do 

do 

do 

do.. 

13.5 

flotton-warn  suiting 

16 

Cotton  warp,  light  weiglit — 
Cotton-warn  suitins 

16.2 

Do              

16 

Cotton  suitine 

do 

do 

do 

do 

16 

Do                      » . . 

16 

flotton-wam  suitine 

16 

Do    

16 

Do              

16 

C/Otton  suitine 

do.. 

do 

do 

•  •  •  •  •U.U««a>«  •  •  •  ■  • 

do 

Very  email 

. . .  ..do 

16 

"Ranpv  siiitin?.        ............. 

16 

Cotton  suitincT 

14 

Worsted  suiiine 

13 

Wrnnpn's  cIoakinET. 

20  ^ 

Womfen's  dress  £Oods.«.. 

11.5 

Hr art's  fanr*v  silltinp                   

11  ' 

Woolpn  potton  suiting. 

do 

11 

Mftaw  cloak inff 

24 

Men's  wear,  heavy  weight 

Wnrstpd  aerce 

. . . . .do.... ..... 

26 

Small 

14 

Do                     

10.5 

Wnr<;tpd  impn's  wear 

.....do. 

11 

Wnr^fprl  cnitinc^                     .._-.- 

. , - ..do..... .... 

14 

TTftTiPv  Riiitincr                  _    ....... 

do 

13 

AVorstmi  RiiitinET 

(\n 

16 

Worsted  serse •..-.- 

12 

Do 

do 

15 

Hfplton                     

28 

Do           

do 

1.18 
1.24 
.154 
.265 
.364 
.38 
.387 
.408 
.412 
.506 
.668 
1.00 
1.08 
1.134 
1.134 
1.28 
1.32 
1.18 
1.20 
1.22 
1.22 
1.26 
1.28 
1.28 
1.36 
1.36 
1.38 
1.42 
1.50 
1.52 
1.68 

30 

W  orsted  suitinir 

Moderate 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

•  • • •  •  UU ••••••■• 

*  •  «  •  •VXV/  ■»•••••<• 

do 

do 

do 

do 

Continual 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

,do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

18   . 

Batiste 

3.5 

Panama  cloth 

3.5 

Cotton  warn  mohair. 

3.5 

Worsted  sersre 

10 

f!of ton  warn  Panama 

5.5 

Do    

6 

Do         

5 

Women's  tricot 

6 

Tricot 

16 

Fane  V  worsted 

.  13 

Men's  suiting 

Worsted  suitins 

16 
18 

Do       

16 

Men's  suitiner 

16 

Worsted  serere 

17 

TlnfinLshed  worsted 

14 

Vanp V  'worsted       ............. 

12 

Worsted  serce 

11 

TTnfinished  worsted 

14 

Worsted  seree 

.  15" 

TTnfinished  worsted  .1 

17 

Fancv  worsted    

14 

Worsted  seree 

16 

Unfinished  worsted 

17 

Fancv  worsted      

12 

Unfinished  worsted  suiting — 
Unfinished  worsted 

18 
18 

Men's  worsted   

16.5 

Heavv  worsted 

18.5 

COST  OF   BUILDINGS   AND   EQUIPMENT. 

A  very  important  element  in  woolen  and  worsted  manufacture  is 
the  erection  and  equipping  of  the  mills  and  the  comparative  costs  in 
the  United  States  and  abroad. 

The  board  has  had  estimates  prepared  by  leading  mill  architects 
in  this  country  and  in  England.  These  estimates  were  made  for 
buildings  of  the  same  size  and  construction  and  equipped  with  the 
machinery  necessary  for  the  same  production  in  each  country;,  with 
the  exception  of  the  combing  plant.  We  find  from  these  estimates 
that  the  additional  cost  over  that  of  England  for  building,  erection 


706 


REPOBT  OP  TABIPF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDUIJ! 


and  equipment  in  this  country  is,  for  a  woolen  mill,  49  per  cent-  for 
awool  prepanng  and  combing  mill  about  the  same  prop^ion    for  I 
wonted  spmmi^  mdl,  67  per  cent,  and  for  a  worsted  weaving  mill 
43  per  cent,    fn  these  cases  the  a<lditional  cost  of  buildinirs  is 
between  45  and  51  per  cent.  "uuamgs  is 

_  In  the  case  of  machinerv  the  greatest  difference  in  cost  comes  in 
^^  y^  *S^  Jmport^Uon  of  foreign  machines.    Such  machinery  landed 

Zn^n  V^^  f  *^K-  *^'"'*'J  *"^H  ^'^  «>  t«  65  per  cent  more 
W  „f  1  Eiigland.  This  is  macle  up  of  a  duty  of  45  per  Jent  and  pack- 
mg  and  shippmg  charges  of  about  20  per  cent.  To  these  costs  must 
be  added  from  7i  to  10  per  cent  to  cover  cost  of  freight  and  erLtion 
or  from  13  to  IS  per  cent  of  the  English  cost  of  thTm^hrnery  S 
apiount  of  foreign  machmery  in  use  in  this  country  can  be  judged  bv 
the  fact  that  m  the  worsted  mills  covered  by  the  Westigatioa  of  the 
board  mto  machme  ef&iency  87  per  cent  of  aU  the  machinery  from  thl 
scouru^  of  raw  wool  through  to  the  finished  yarn  was  imported 

Ihere  are  now  given  m  detad  the  findings  and  figures  for  the  four 
different  plants  considered  and  estunated. 

WOOLEN  MILL. 

This  estimate  is  for  a  woolen  mill  with  14  sets  of  cards,  the  buUdines 
c™te  fnn.75  ^^o^^c^^ouflow-huvmr^  type,  Portland  cement  cT 
Crete  foundations,  brick  walls  wooden  floors,  and  tar  and  gravel  roof 
covering.     The  structural  steel  work  is  made  of  roUed  "  medium  "  steel 
^^^ch  *°  ^^'"^^  ***  60/)00  pounds  to  70^00  pounds  per' 

vJJ\LYd'i^tl'^  such  a  phuit  in  the  United  States  is  $506,941;  in 
^iMxd  $339,854,  or  a  higher  cost  m  the  United  States  of  49  per  c4nt. 
J?22  ^'™^„  ^""^K^^  cost  $176,391  and  the  English  fiuildin^ 

\S^l  o?f^  Ku^X  foUowing  table  between  the  two  countries  ar« 
comparable,  with  the  exception  that  the  fire  pump  is  not  included  in 
the  ^English  estimate  for  fire  protection  nor  a  coal  trestle  in  the 
Enghsh  calculation  for  railroad  siding.  In  the  American  costs  the 
fire  pump  is  placed  at  $1,000  and  the  coal  trestle  at  the  same  price 

Woolen  miU  (14  sets  0/ cards). 


Buildings  (cWmneys  indtnled) 

Mach  inery  erected... 

Light  injc  equipment 

Fire  protectioa  (generator  incliMied)'.'-'.] 
Heating. 


ManfoJwstinIng  pi|»iBg 

Ilumidifiers 

Elevators 


Shafting  and  belting " 

Furniture  and  supplies 

PowBf  plant 

Bepairshop 

Railroad  siding 

Engineering,  contingencies,  and  allowanres  for  starting  plant.' 


Complete  piant. 


Cost  of  machinery,  per  set 

Cost  of  bmldSngs,  per  set 

Cost  of  complete  plant,  per  set. 


United 

land. 

States. 

1182,391 

S136,I50 

180, 161 

122, 28d 

6,425 

3,772 

10,100 

»  5,513 

4,865 

»8,780 

4,700 

3,200 

4,000 

2,433 

2,350 

1,168 

18,265 

6,083 

14,600 

8,124 

23,300 

17,57i 

4,260 

3,601 

2,200 

■486 

46,484 

33, 112 

8,734 

i,010 

24,447 


I  Pmnp  not  fndoded  in  English.   «Vamiim  system  in  English.    «  Coal  trestle  not  included  in  English. 


\ 


KEPORT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDUMl  K. 
PREPAEING   AND   COMBING   MILL, 


707 


There  are  presented  here  the  cost  of  a  wool-preparing  and  combing 

Elant  in  the  United  States  and  one  in  England,  the  American  plant 
aving  8  combs  and  the  English  plant  12  combs.  The  American 
plant  is  constructed  to  produce  from  2,000  to  2,500  pounds  of  60s. 
quality  tops  per  day  of  10  hours.  | 

'  The  total  cost  of  the  8-comb  plant  in  the  United  States  is  $200,158, 
and  of  the  12-comb  English  plant  $163,003,  making  the  American 
plant  cost  22  per  cent  more  than  the  English  and  for  two-thirds  the 
number  of  combs  contained  in  the  English  plant.  ^  | 

In  the  American  plant  the  carding  machinery  is  of  American  make, 
but  the  balance  of  tlie  machinery  is  of  the  best  English  manufacture. 
The  figures  in  the  following  table  are  comparable,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  the  item  of  railroad  siding,  where  the  coal  trestle  is  not  included 
in  the  English  cost.  This  is  put  down  at  $1,000  in  the  American 
estimate. 

Preparing  and  combing  plant. 


Buildings 

Machinery  and  erection 

Electric  equipment 

Fire  protection 

Heating 

Manufacturing  piping 

Humidifiers 

Slxafting 

I  Belting 

Supplies 

Miscellaneous  equipment 

Power  plant 

Repair  shop 

Railroad  siding 

Engineering  and  contingencies . 


Complete  plant. 


200,158 


United 

Eng- 

States 

land 

(8-comb), 

(12<:omb), 

$76,274 

f70,811 

73,316 

53,275 

1,640 

1,620 

5,550 

3,900 

1,800 

2,160 

1,425 

1,525 

1,250 

1,260 

1,704 

973 

X,548 

1,849 

3,082 

1,353 

5,046 

3,600 

11,775 

6,618 

3,548 

2,760 

2,200 

1500 

10,000 

10,800 

163,003 


»  CoQl  trestle  not  inchided  in  English. 


f  WORSTED    SPINNING   MILL. 


} 

This  is  an  estimate  for  a  worsted  spinning  mill  containing  three 
sets  of  drawing,  and  5,400  producing  spindles,  producing  from  2,000 
.to  2,500  pounds  of  2/30' s  count  yarn  per  day  of  10  hours. 

Such  a  plant  would  cost  complete  in  the  United  States  $203,906 
and  in  England  $121,860.  The  American  cost  is  thus  67  per  cent 
higher  than  the  English.  The  cost  of  the  buildings,  including  chim- 
'ney,  in  the  United  States,  is  $62,480  and  in  England  $40,319.  The 
machinery,  erected,  cost  in  the  United  States  is  $72,725  and  in  Eng- 
land $37,099.  In  the  American  plant  the  machinery  up  to  and  includ- 
ing twisters  is  of  English  manufacture  and  the  balance  is  of  American 
manufacture. 


708 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


The  figures  as  given  in  the  following  table  are  comparable  in  all 
cases,  with  the  exception  that  in  the  cost  of  railroad  siding  there  is 
no  coal  trestle  in  the  English  estimate.  The  cost  of  the  American 
trestle  is  $1,000. 

Worsted  spinning  plant  (6,400  spindks). 


Buildings  and  chimney 

Machinery  erected 

Lighting  equipment 

Fire  protection 

Heatmg 

Humidifiers 

Elevators 

Shafting 

Belting 

Supplies  and  miscellaneous  equipment 

Bobbins  and  spools 

Power  plant 

Repair  shop 

Railroad  siding 

Engineering  and  contingencies 

Comple^  plant 

Cost  of  machinery  per  spindle 

Cost  of  buildings  per  spindle 

Cost  of  complete  plant  per  spindle 


United 
States. 


162,480.00 

72,725.00 

1,700.00 

4,950.00 

1,800.00 

2, 400. 00 

800.00 

4,361.00 

1,475.00 

6,160.00 

4,662.00 

24,600.00 

3,883.00 

2,000.00 

10,000.00 


England. 


203,996.00 


$40,319.00 

40,808.00 

1,250.00 

2,500.00 

1,460.00 

1,216.00 

1,070.00 

2,191.00 

1,469.00 

3,000.00 

1,886.00 

16,900.00 

3,000.00 

»500.00 

8,000.00 


125,569.00 


»  Coal  trestle  not  Included  In  English. 
WORSTED   WEAVING    MILL. 

The  estimates  for  this  plant  assume  a  worsted  weaving  and  finishing 
mill  containing  100  looms,  and  making  both  dress  goods  and  men's 
suitings. 

The  total  cost  of  such  a  mill  in  the  United  States  is  $333,678,  and 
the  cost  in  England  of  the  same  plant  would  be  $233,379,  making  the 
American  plant  cost  43  per  cent  more  than  the  English.  The  build- 
ings in  the  United  States,  including  chimney,  cost  $134,973,  and  m 
England  $92,695.  The  machinery,  erected,  cost  in  the  United  States 
$111,338,  and  in  England  $79,342. 

In  this  plant  the  machinery  estimate  for  the  United  States  mill  is 
for  machinery  throughout  of  American  manufacture. 

The  figures  as  given  in  the  following  table  are  comparable,  with 
the  exception  that  in  the  case  of  fire  protection  the  fire  pump  is  not 
included  in  the  English  estimate,  nor  the  coal  trestle  included  in  the 
English  cost  of  the  railroad  siding.  The  estimated  cost  of  the  trestle 
in  this  country  is  $1 ,000  and  of  the  fire  pump  the  same  amount.  In 
the  matter  of  heating  it  is  to  be  noted  that  the  vacuum  system  is  esti- 
mated for  in  the  English  cost. 


BEPOBT  OP  TABIFF  BOAKD  ON   SCHEDUI^  K. 
Worsted  weaving  plant  (100  looms). 


709 


Buildings  (including  chimney) 

Machinery  erected 

Lighting  equipment  (generator  included) . 

Fire  protection 

Heating 

Manufacturing  piping 

Humidifiers 

Elevators 

Shafting  and  belting 

Supplies  and  miscellaneous  equipment . . . 

Power  plant 

Repair  shop 

Railroad  siding. 


Engineering  and  contingencies. 


Complete  plant ^^'^^^ 


United 
States. 


$134,973 

111,338 

5,250 

8,750 

4,650 

7,500 

2,100 

1,100 

6,968 

11,740 

17,550 

4,159 

2,600 

15,000 


Cost  of  machinery  per  loom 

Cost  of  buildings  per  loom 

Cost  »l  complete  plant  per  loom. 


1,113 
1,349 
3,336 


England. 


$92,695 

79,342 

1,946 

14,124 

s  4,380 

5,000 

2,316 

1,168 

4,234 

5,500 

11,435 

2,433 

<486 

18,320 


233,379 


793 

926 

2,333 


»  Pump  not  Included  in  English.  «  Vacuum  system  in  English.   »  Coal  trestle  not  included  in  English. 

METHOD   OF   ASSESSING  DUTIES. 

The  board  has  carefully  considered  the  problem  of  the  method  of 
assessing  the  duties  on  manufactures  of  wool,  with  the  idea  of  deter- 
mining the  f easibihty  of  using  a  system  of  specific  duties  throughout. 

The  system  of  specific  duties  has  many  advantages.  From  the 
point  of  view  of  revenue  and  administration  such  a  system  has  the 
advantage  of  fixing  definite  rates  which  are  independent  of  the 
fluctuations  of  the  market,  and  solves  and  eUminates  the  very  impor- 
tant problem  of  undervaluation.  From  the  economic  point  of  view 
the  system  has  tliis  advantage;  that  the  amount  of  duty  remains 
uniform  despite  fluctuations  in  prices.  One  serious  disadvantage  of 
ad  valorem  duties  is  that  the  amount  of  duty  increases  with  every 
increase  in  the  price  of  the  article.  In  other  words,  at  the  time 
when  prices  are  high  and  when  the  consumer  would  be  most  benefited 
by  the  active  competition  of  foreign  fabrics,  the  duty  automatically 
increases.  Conversely,  the  amount  of  duty  diminishes  when  prices 
fall;  that  is,  when  the  consumer  least  needs  rehef  and  when  the  com- 
petition of  foreign  manufacturers  is  most  injurious  to  the  home^ 
producer. 

From  the  point  of  view  of  protecting  the  domestic  manufacturer 
by  equalizing  the  dilTerence  in  cost  of  production  at  home  and  abroad 
by  means  of  tariff  duties,  the  system  of  specific  duties  is  the  natural 
and  logical  method.  Market  values  fluctuate  continuously  according 
to  the  prices  of  the  raw  material.  The  cost  of  manufacturing  this 
material,  however,  remains  relatively  constant,  and  does  not  change 
with  such  fluctuations.  That  is,  the  difference  in  the  cost  of  produc- 
tion is  a  relatively  constant  quantity  and  consequently  a  duty 
assessed  in  ad  valorem  terms  would  inevitably  be  at  one  time  in  excess 
of  the  difference  in  the  cost  of  production  and  at  another  time  less 
than  the  difference  in  the  cost  of  production,  according  to  the  tem- 
porary and  speculative  changes  of  the  market. 

The  successful  operation  of  a  system  of  specific  duties,  however, 
depends  upon  the  possibihty  of  classifying  the  articles  on  which 
duties  are  levied  in  definite  terms  familiar  to  the  tra;de  and  corre- 


32080°— H.  Doc.  342, 62-2,  vol  2- 


710 


BEPOET  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


sponding  to  actual  differences  in  cost  of  manufacture.  Many  efforts 
have  been  made  to  find  an  accurate  basis  for  such  classification  for 
manufactures  of  wool,  but  thus  far  not  with  success  so  far  as  woven 
fabrics  are  concerned.  In  the  case  of  varus  the  problem  is  relatively 
simple.  Yarns  are  comparatively  well  standardized  and  their  cost 
varies  in  a  certain  regular  relation  to  the  fineness  or  count  of  the  yarn. 
It  is  a  simple  matter,  then,  to  adopt  the  specific  system  in  this  partic- 
ular case.  A  dutjr  can  be  assessed  on  No.  1  jram  and  be  made  to 
increase  by  a  certain  proportion  with  each  additional  count  of  yarn. 
The  proper  additions  could  furthermore  be  made  for  doubhng,  dyeing, 
hard  twisting,  etc. 

But  no  satisfactory  method  of  classifying  woven  fabrics,  in  the 
case  of  manufactures  of  wool,  with  a  view  to  the  assessment  of  specific 
duties  has  yet  been  devised.  Efforts  have  been  made  to  classify  woolen 
and  worsted  fabrics  according  to  weight  per  yard  and  picks  per  inch 
as  the  proper  basis  for  adjustmg  rates  to  relative  differences  m  costs. 
This  method,  however,  fails  to  take  into  account  either  the  gfeat 
variations  in  the  quality  of  yam  going  into  a  fabric  of  a  given  class 
or  the  great  variations  in  the  finisliing  of  cloth  after  the  process  of 
weaving  is  completed.  From  an  examination  of  many  fabrics  it 
appears  that  no  system  of  classification  alon^  such  lines  nas  yet  been 
worked  out  which  would  act  in  a  fair  and  equitable  manner. 

It  would  seem,  then,  that  in  so  far  as  woolen  and  worsted  fabrics 
are  concerned  the  only  present  practicable  method  of  levying  duties 
is  to  adopt  in  some  measure  a  system  of  ad  valorem  duties.  Such 
ad  valorem  duties  would  necessarily  be  in  addition  to  any  compensa- 
torv  duties  levied  because  of  the  duty  on  the  raw  material. 

Any  flat  ad  valorem  duty  must  inevitably  have  very  different 
effects*  in  the  case  of  different  fabrics,  since  such  a  duty  is  assessed 
on  the  basis  of  the  market  value  of  the  fabric  without  regard  to 
the  relation  between  the  labor  or  conversion  cost  and  the  value  of 
the  raw  material.  Compare,  for  instance,  two  fabrics  in  one  of  which 
the  conversion  cost  is  30  per  cent  of  the  total  and  in  the  other  60 
per  cent  of  the  total.  A  nat  ad  valorem  rate  applied  to  both  fabrics 
would  give  double  the  protection  to  the  manufacturer  of  the  first 
fabric  that  it  would  give  to  the  manufacturer  of  the  second.  The 
result  is  that  a  single  ad  valorem  rate  if  fixed  at  a  point  adequate 
to  eauaUze  the  difference  in  the  cost  of  production  on  those  fabrics 
which  have  the  highest  labor  or  conversion  cost  would  be  practically 
prohibitory  on  fabrics  of  a  lower  grade.  Conversely,  if  the  duty  were 
put  at  a  point  to  equalize  the  difference  in  the  labor  or  conversion 
cost  on  the  cheaper  fabrics  it  would  be  inadequate  for  equahzing  such 
difference  in  the  case  of  finer  fabrics. 

In  general,  it  may  be  said  that  the  fabrics  of  high  value  have  a 
relatively  high  conversion  cost.  There  are,  of  course,  individual 
exceptions  to  this  general  statement,  but  they  are  not  of  sufficient 
importance   to  materially  affect   the  case.     Consequently,   if   the 

f)urpose  of  legislation  be  to  adjust  duties  so  far  as  possible  to  relative 
abor  or  conversion  costs,  this  can  now  best  be  done,  so  far  as  woolen 
and  worsted  fabrics  are  concerned,  by  assessing  ad  valorem  rates  and 
have  them  vary  with  the  value  of  the  fabric.  A  system  of  graduated 
duties,  increasiV  regularly  with  different  increments  of  value  could 
be  made  equitably  to  equalize  the  difference  in  the  cost  of  production 
on  the  more  expensive  fabrics  without  placing  prohibitory  rates  on 
fabrics  of  lower  grade. 


PART  III -MANUFACTORmG  COSTS. 


SECTJON  2. 


711 


^4 
1 


i 


WEAVERS'   WAGE    SCALES  AND   AQBEEMENTS    FROM   ENGLAND, 
GERMANY,  AUSTRIA.,  FRANCE,  AND  BELGIUM. 

Kealizing  that  the  weavers'  rates  are  an  important  element  in  the 
cost  of  production  of  cloth,  a  collection  of  wage  scales  was  made  as 
supplementing  the  costs  on  specific  samples.  ,    ,     .      i       i 

A  mass  of  wage  data  was  secured  for  which  no  tabulation  has  been 
made  because  of  the  impossibility  of  handlmg  the  matenal  m  so  short 

Wage  scales,  however,  have  been  tabulated  where  their  nature  per- 
mitted of  tabulation,  and  where  this  was  not  possible  typical  ones 
have  been  reproduced  in  translation  or  in  summaries. 

A  wage  scale  may  represent  the  wages  paid  in  a  smgle  plant  or  m 
an  entu-e  industrial  district,  and  to  offset  this  discrepancy  in  the 
relative  value  of  different  scales  an  attempt  has  been  made  to  show 
how  many  establishments  were  included  in  a  given  scale.  ^ 

This  has  not  always  been  possible,  as,  for  instance,  m  the  weavers 
wage  scale  for   the  Iluddersfield   district  of    England,   practically 
all  establishments  pay  the  scale,  but  it  was  impossible  to  determme 

just  how  many  do  not.  .      .     ^  t^.  •       e    ^ 

This  would  be  true  of  the  Gera  district  m  Germany,  it  is  safe  to 
say  however,  that  a  district  or  group  wage  scale  is  always  the  standard 
of  wages  for  that  locality  and  any  variance  either  way  from  this 
standard  would  be  slight. 

ENGLISH   weavers'    SCALES. 

The  Huddersfield  scale,  which  follows,  is  a  compilation  by  the 
Manufacturers'  Association  of  that  district,  and  there  is  an  agreement 
among  the  members  to  pay  according  to  this  scale.  It  apphes  to  one- 
loom  work  and  on  looms  running  70  to  80  picks  per  mmute,  except 
that  a  provision  is  made  for  a  35  per  cent  reduction  froni  this  scale 
for  two-loom  work.  A  smgle  column  has  been  added  for  looms  run- 
ning from  110  to  120  picks  per  minute  as  a  possible  speed  hmit. 
No  reference  is  made  to  the  newer  and  higher  speed  looms  which  are 
found  in  some  parts  of  England;  hence  where  a  higher  speed  loom  is 
mentioned  in  that  part  of  the  present  report  which  analyzes  samples 
sent  out  by  the  board,  such  rates  can  not  be  compared  with  this  table. 
The  analysis  there  given  of  costs  of  production  by  samples  is  based 
on  the  cost  on  the  most  rapid  looms  in  use  on  that  sample  in  England. 

The  weavers'  scale  here  given  is  for  the  type  of  looms  named  m  the 

scale  and  for  none  other. 

713 


'iSuiiiiii. ' 


714 


BEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


The  Huddersfield  scale  is  prefaced  bj  the  following  statement  from 
the  secretary  of  the  association: 

HUDDERSllELO    WOOLEN    MANUPACTURERS    AND    SPINNERS*    ASSOCIATION    WEAVERS* 

SCALE. 

The  following  scale  for  18  stringB  of  10  feet  per  string  has  been  compiled  by  the  above 
association: 

In  shawls  not  more  than  three  shuttles  will  be  paid  for. 

Up  to  30  picks  on  warps  of  only  one  cut  long  6a.  extra  will  be  allowed. 

From  30  to  60  picks  on  warps  of  only  one  cut  long  9d.  extra  will  be  allowed. 

Above  60  picks  on  warps  of  onl^  one  cut  long  Is.  extra  will  be  allowed. 

In  all  cases  1  halfpennvper  stnns  to  be  added  for  every  2  healds  over  16. 

Weavers  working  two  looms  will  be  paid  35  per  cent,  or  7s.  in  the  pound  sterling, 
less  than  scale. 

All  damages  traced  to  negligence  will  be  deducted. 

No  interference  will  be  allowed  with  learners  approved  by  the  masters. 

WiLUAM  ScHOFiELD,  Secretary. 

In  the  tabular  presentation  of  this  scale  the  '* string"  has  been 
reduced  to  yards,  and  the  EngHsh  money  changed  to  the  L^nited  States 
equivalent — that  is,  the  rate  is  given  in  cents  per  yard,  and  the  sepa- 
rate scales  or  rates  paid  to  male  and  female  weavers  have  been 
brought  together  in  one  table.  The  originals  are  published  sepa- 
rately as  two  different  scales,  one  for  male  and  the  other  for  female 
weavers.  This  did  not  seem  necessary  where  they  are  to  be  used 
simply  for  comparison. 

The  tables  show  the  rate  based  on  the  number  of  picks  or  threads 
of  weft  varn  per  linear  inch  of  the  cloth  as  woven  in  the  loom;  the 
rate  is  shown  for  male  weavers  and  for  female  weavers  separately  on 
one-beam  and  on  two-beam  work  and  where  one  shuttle  is  used,  and 
so  on  up  to  four  shuttles. 

The  tabulated  wage  scale  is  to  be  read  as  follows: 

Suppose  the  weaver's  rate  on  a  woolen  cloth  having  51  picks  to  the 
woven  inch  is  wanted;  follow  down  the  line  of  picks  per  woven  inch 
on  Table  1  until  51  is  found,  and  it  will  be  seen  that  for  either  51  or 
52  picks  on  one-beam  and  one-shuttle  work  the  male  weaver's  rate  is 
5.68  cents  per  yard;  the  female  weaver's  rate  is  4.92  cents;  the  rate 
for  two  shuttles,  one  beam,  is  5.98  cents  and  5.12  cents,  respectively; 
on  two-beam  and  two-shuttle  work  the  rate  for  males  is  7  cents,  for 
female  weavers  6.18  cents,  etc. 

The  rate  for  worsted  cloth  woven  from  colored  yarn  can  be  followed 
on  Table  2  in  the  same  way;  and  the  rate  for  worsted  cloths  woven 
in  white,  or  *  'gray, "  as  it  is  called  in  the  United  States,  can  be  followed 
in  Table  3  in  a  similar  way. 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOARD  ON  SOHEDUUa  K. 

Table  1. 

(Rate  per  yard.] 


715 


Picks  per  woven  Inch. 


9  and  10 

11  and  12 

13andl4 

15  and  16 

17  and  18.... 
19and20.... 

21  and  22 

23  and  24-... 

25  and  26 

27  and  28.... 

29  and  30 

31  and  32 

33  and  34 

35  and  36 

37  and  38 

39  and  40 

41  and  42.... 
43  and  44.... 

45  and  46 

47  and  48.... 

49  and  50 

51  and  52.... 
63  and  54 — 

55  and  56 

57  and  58... 

69  and  60... 

61  and  62... 

63  and  64.. - 

65  and  66... 

67  and  68... 

69 and  70... 

71  and  72... 

73  and  74. . . 

75  and  76... 

77  and  78... 

79 and  80... 

81  and  82... 

83  and  84... 

85 and  86... 

87  and  88... 

89  and  90... 

91  and  92... 

93  and  94... 

95  and  96... 

97  and  98... 

99  and  100.. 

101  and  102. 

103  and  104. 

105  and  106. 

107  and  108. 

109  and  110. 

Ill  and  112. 

113  and  114. 

115  and  116. 

117  and  118. 

119  and  120. 


Worsteds,  woolens,  and  mixture  or  solid-colored  worsteds. 


Male  weaver. 


Ibeam. 


1  shuttle.  2  shuttles. 


$0.0141 
.0162 
.0183 
.0203 
.0223 
.0243 
.0264 
.0284 
.0304 
.0324 
.0345 
.0365 
.0385 
.0406 
.0426 
.0446 
.0466 
.0487 
.0507 
.0527 
.0547 
.0568 
.0588 
.0608 
.0629 
.0649 
.0669 
.0689 
.0710 
.0730 
.0760 
.0771 
.0791 
.0811 
.0831 
.0852 
.0872 
.0892 
.0912 
.0933 
.0963 
.0973 
.0994 
.1014 
.1034 
.1054 
.1075 
.1095 
.1115 
.1136 
.1156 
.1176 
.1106 
.1217 
.1237 
.1257 


3  shuttles. 


4  shuttles. 


10.0162 
.0183 
.0203 
.0223 
.0243 
.0264 
.0284 
.0304 
.0324 
.0345 
.0365 
.0386 
.0406 
.0426 
.0451 
.0471 
.0492 
.0512 
.0532 
.0658 
.0678 
.0598 
.0618 
.0639 
.0664 
.0684 
.0705 
.0725 
.0745 
.0771 
.0791 
.0811 
.0831 
.0852 
.0877 
.0897 
.0918 
.0938 
.0958 
.0983 
.1004 
.1024 
.1044 
.1066 
.1090 
.1110 
.1130 
.1151 
.1169 
.1196 
.1217 
.1237 
.1257 
.1277 
.1303 
.1323 


2  beams. 


2  shuttles.  3  shuttles.  4  shuttles. 


$0.0183 
.0203 
.0223 
.0243 
.0264 
.0284 
.0304 
.0324 
.0345 
.0366 
.0386 
.0406 
.0426 
.0446 
.0477 
.0497 
.0517 
.0537 
.0558 
.0588 
.0608 
.0629 
.0649 
.0669 
.0700 
.0720 
.0740 
.0760 
.0781 
.0811 
.0831 
.0852 
.0872 
.0892 
.0923 
.0943 
.0963 
.0983 
.1004 
.1034 
.1054 
91075 
.1096 
.1115 
.1146 
.1166 
.1186 
.1206 
.1227 
.1257 
.1277 
.1298 
.1318 
.1338 
.1369 
.1389 


$0.0213 
.0233 
.0253 
.0274 
.0294 
.0314 
.0335 
.0355 
.0375 
.0395 
.0416 
.0436 
.0456 
.0477 
.0514 
.0634 
.0554 
.0575 
.0596 
.0634 
.0654 
.0674 
.0694 
.0715 
.0752 
.0772 
.0792 
.0813 
.0833 
.0872 
.0892 
.0912 
.0933 
.0953 
.0990 
.1010 
.1031 
.1051 
.1071 
.1110 
.1130 
.1161 
.1171 
.1191 
.1228 
.1249 
.1269 
.1289 
.1310 
.1348 
.1369 
.1389 
.1409 
.1430 
.1467 
.1487 


$0 


0461 
0476 
.0497 
.0531 
.0653 
.0576 
.0698 
.0622 
.0664 
.0700 
.0720 
.0723 
.0746 
.0779 
.0801 
.0826 
.0847 
.0870 
.0902 
.0926 
.0948 
.0972 
.0994 
.1027 
.1049 
.1073 
.1095 
.1119 
.1151 
.1176 
.1196 
.1220 
.1244 
.1276 
.1298 
.1321 
.1343 
.1367 
.1399 
.1423 
.1445 
.1468 
.1490 
.1524 
.1646 


$0.0471 
.0497 
.0517 
.0556 
.0578 
.0602 
.0624 
.0647 
.0684 
.0710 
.0730 
.0764 
.0776 
.0814 
.0836 
.0860 
.0882 
.0906 
.0943 
.0967 
.0989 
.1012 
.1034 
.1073 
.1095 
.1117 
.1141 
.1164 
.1201 
.1226 
.1247 
.1271 
.1294 
.1332 
.1337 
.1363 
.1399 
.1423 
.1460 
.1484 
.1516 
.1561 
.1670 
.1690 
.1619 


$0.0502 
.0526 
.0547 
.0693 
.0615 
,0639 
.0661 
.0684 
.0730 
.0765 
.0776 
.0799 
.0821 
.0867 
.0889 
.0912 
.0934 
.0958 
.1004 
.1027 
.1049 
.1073 
.1095 
.1141 
.1163 
.1186 
.1208 
.1232 
.1277 
.1299 
.1323 
.1347 
.1370 
.1414 
.1436 
.1460 
.1482 
.1506 
.1551 
.1675 
.1697 
.1620 
.1642 
.1688 
.1708 


716 


BEFORT  OF   TARIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


REPORT  OF   TARIFF   BOARD   ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


717 


Table  1 — Continued. 
[Rate  per  yard.] 


Picks  per  woven  Inch. 


9andl0 

11  and  12 

13  and  14 

16  and  16 

17  and  18 

19  and  20 

21  and  22 

23  and  24 

25  and  26 

27  and  28 

29  and  30 

31  and  32 

33  and  34 

35  and  36 

37  and  38 

39  and  40 

41  and  42 

43 and  44.."... 

45  and  46 

47  and  48 

49  and  50 

61  and  52 

63  and  54 

65  and  56 

67  and  58 

69  and  60 

61  and  62 

63  and  64 

65  and  66 

67  and  68 

69  and  70 

71  and  72 

73  and  74 

75and  76 

77  and  78 

79  and  80 

81  and  82 

83  and  84 

86  and  86 

87  and  88 

89  and  90 

91  and  92 

93  and  94 

95  and  96 

97  and  98 

99  and  100 

101  and  102... 
103  and  104... 
106  and  106... 

inland  108 

109  and  110... 
Ill  and  112... 
113  and  114... 
115  and  116.... 
117  and  118.... 
119  and  120 


Worsteds,  woolens,  and  mixture  or  solid-colored  worsteds. 


Femalo  weaver. 


1  beam. 


2  beams. 


1  shuttle. 


2 shuttles.  3  shuttles.  4  shuttles.  2 shuttles.  3 shuttles.  4  shuttles. 


SO.  0125 

SO. 0141 
.0162 
.0179 
.0196 
.0213 
.0233 
.0250 
.0267 
.0284 
.0304 
.0311 
.0330 

SO.  0162 
.0179 
.0196 
.0213 
.0233 
.0250 
.0267 
.0284 
.0304 
.0321 
.0338 
.0360 

SO.  0189 
.0206 
.0223 
.0240 
.0260 
.0277 
.0294 
.0311 
.0331 
.0348 
.0365 
.0406 

! 

. 

.0141 

'..  .    .1 

.0162 

! 

.0179 

' 

.0196 

.0213 

.0233 

< 

.0250 

.0267 

1 

i 

.0284 

.0294 

1 

.0299 

SO.  0395 

SO.  0411 

SO.  0433 

.0330 

.0360 

.0365 

.0411 

.0426 

.0446 

.0477 

.0360 

.0366 

.0385 

.0441 

.0446 

.0466 

.0497 

.0370 

.0406 

.0400 

.0444 

.0460 

.0487 

.0517 

.0375 

.0411 

.0446 

.0476 

.0487 

.0507 

.0537 

.0406 

.0438 

.0451 

.0505 

.0507 

.0527 

.0558 

.0416 

.0466 

.0471 

.0532 

.0537 

.0563 

.0600 

.0446 

.0461 

.0502 

.0537 

.0558 

.0583 

.0620 

.0451 

.0492 

.0532 

.0568 

.0578 

.0603 

.0640 

.0461 

.0507 

.0537 

.0596 

.0698 

.0624 

.0661 

.0492 

.0612 

.0658 

.0602 

.0618 

.0644 

.0681 

.0622 

.0542 

.0588 

.0634 

.0649 

.0679 

.0726 

.0527 

.0673 

.0593 

.0662 

.0669 

.0700 

.0746 

.0637 

.0588 

.0617 

.0689 

.0689 

.0720 

.0766 

.0668 

.0693 

.0644 

.0694 

.0710 

.0740 

.0786 

.0698 

.0624 

.0674 

.0725 

.0730 

.0760 

.0806 

.0608 

.0639 

.0684 

.0754 

.0750 

.0781 

.0826 

.0613 

.0669 

.0700 

.0759 

.0781 

.0816 

.0869 

.0644 

.0674 

.0730 

.0789 

.0801 

.0836 

.0889 

.0654 

.0689 

.0750 

.0816 

.0821 

.0857 

.0909 

.0684 

.0720 

.0755 

.0821 

.0841 

.0877 

.0929 

.0689 

.0750 

.0786 

.0852 

.0862 

.0897 

.0950 

.0720 

.0765 

.0816 

.0882 

.0892 

.0933 

.0994 

.0730 

.0771 

.0636 

.0911 

.0912 

.0963 

.1014 

.0760 

.0803 

.0641 

.0916 

.0933 

.0973 

.1034 

.0766 

.0831 

.0872 

.0946 

.0953 

.0994 

.1054 

.0776 

.0841 

.0892 

.0973 

.0973 

.1014 

.1076 

.0806 

.0852 

.0897 

.0978 

.0994 

.1034 

.1096 

.0836 

.0682 

.0928 

.1009 

.1024 

.1073 

.1137 

.0847 

.0894 

.0948 

.1037 

.1044 

.1090 

.1157 

.0852 

.0902 

.0978 

.1043 

.1065 

.1110 

.1178 

.0882 

.0933 

.0983 

.1073 

.1085 

.1130 

.1198 

.0912 

.0963 

.1014 

.1103 

.1105 

.1151 

.1218 

.0918 

.0978 

.1034 

.1130 

.1136 

.1186 

.1262 

.0928 

.0983 

.1065 

.1136 

.115(1 

.1206 

.1283 

.0968 

.1014 

.1070 

.1166 

.1176 

.1227 

.i;»3 

.0968 

.1029 

.1090 

.1194 

.1196 

.1247 

.1323 

.0973 

.1069 

.1120 

.1200 

.1217 

.1267 

.  1343 

.1004 

.1065 

.1130 

.1230 

.1237 

.1288 

.1364 

.1014 

.1080 

.1146 

.1257 

.1257 

.1308 

.1384 

.1044 

.1110 

.1176 

.1288 

.1288 

.1343 

.1426 

.1049 

.1141 

.1206 

.1293 

.1308 

.1364 

.1446 

.1080 

.1146 

.1212 

.  1321 

.1328 

.1384 

.1407 

.1090 

.1161 

.1232 

.  13.'>2 

.  1348 

.1404 

.1487 

.1119 

.1191 

.1263 

.  1357 

.1369 

.1440 

.1631 

Table  2. 


Picks  per  woven  inch. 


31  and  32... 

33  and  34... 

35and3G — 

37  and  38... 

39  and  40... 

41  and  42... 

43  and 44... 

45  and  40... 

47  and  48... 

49  and  50... 

51  and  52... 

63  and  54... 

55  and  56... 

67  and 58... 

69  and  GO... 

61  and  62... 

63  and  64.. - 

65  and  66... 

67  and  68... 

69  and  70... 

71  and  72... 

73  and  74... 

75  and  76... 

77  and  78... 

79 and  80... 

81  and  82... 

83  and 84... 

85  and  80... 

87  and  88... 

89  and  90... 

91  and  92... 

93  and  94... 

95  and  96... 

97  and 98... 

99  and  100.. 

101  and  102. 

103  and  104. 

lOSandlOG. 

107  and  108. 

109  and  110. 

Ill  and  112. 

113  and  114. 

115  and  116. 

117  and  118. 

119  and  120. 


Colored  worsteds. 


Male  weaver. 


Ibeam. 


2  beams. 


1  shuttle. 


2  shuttles. 


SO.  0385 
.0406 
.0426 
.0451 
.0171 
.0492 
.0512 
.0532 
.0558 
.0578 
.0598 
.0618 
.0639 
.0064 
.0684 
.0705 
.0725 
.0745 
.0771 
.0791 
.0811 
.0831 
.0852 
.0877 
.0897 
.0918 
.TO38 
.0958 
.0983 
.1004 
.1024 
.1044 
.1065 
.1090 
.1110 
.1130 
.1151 
.1171 
.1196 
.1217 
.1237 
.1257 
.1277 
.1303 
.1323 


3  shuttles. 


SO.  0406 
.0426 
.0451 
.0477 
.0497 
.0517 
.0542 
.0563 
.0588 
.0608 
.0629 
.0664 
.0674 
.0700 
.0720 
.0740 
.0765 
.0780 
.0811 
.0831 
.0852 
.0872 
.0892 
.0923 
.0943 
.0968 
.0989 
.1009 
.1034 
.1054 
.1080 
.1100 
.1120 
.1146 
.1166 
.1191 
.1212 
.1232 
.1257 
.1277 
.1303 
.1323 
.1343 
.1369 
.1394 


4  shuttles.  <2  shuttles. 


SO. 


.0426 

.0451 

.0471 

.0502 

.0520 

.0547 

.0568 

.0588 

.0618 

.0644 

.0664 

.0684 

.0705 

.0735 

.0760 

.0781 

.0801 

.0821 

.0852 

.0877 

.0897 

.0918 

.0938 

.0973 

.0994 

.1014 

.1034 

.1054 

.1090 

.1110 

.1130 

.1151 

.1171 

.1206 

.1227 

.1247 

.1267 

.1293 

.1323 

.1343 

.1364 

.1384 

.1409 

.1440 

.1460 


SO.  0461 
.0482 
.0502 
.0544 
.0564 
.0585 
.0605 
.0625 
.0669 
.0689 
.0710 
.0730 
.0755 
.0792 
.0813 
.0833 
.0858 
.0879 
.0918 
.0938 
.0958 
.0983 
.1004 
.1041 
.1061 
.1087 
.1107 
.1127 
.1160 
.1191 
.1212 
.1232 
.1252 
.1294 
.1315 
.1335 
.1355 
.1375 
.1419 
.1440 
.1460 
.1480 
.1506 
.1543 
.1563 


SO.  0512 
,0536 
0558 
0607 
0629 
0652 
0674 
0C98 
0745 
0771 
0791 
0814 
0830 
0885 
0907 
0931 
0953 
0977 
1024 
1048 
1070 
1093 
1115 
1164 
1186 
1210 
1232 
1255 
1303 
1326 
1348 
1372 
1396 
1443 
1465 
1489 
1511 
1534 
1582 
1605 
1627 
1651 
1673 
1722 
1744 


3  shuttles. 


4  shuttles. 


SO.  0532 
.0556 
.0578 
.0632 
.0654 
.0678 
.0700 
.0723 
.0776 
.0801 
.0821 
.0845 
.0867 
.0921 
.0943 
.0967 
.0989 
.1012 
.1075 
.1088 
.1110 
.1134 
.1156 
.1210 
.1232 
.1255 
.1277 
.1301 
.1353 
.1377 
.1399 
.1423 
.1446 
.1499 
.1521 
.1544 
.1566 
.1590 
.1642 
.1666 
.1688 
.1712 
.1734 
.1788 
.1810 


SO.  0563 
.0586 
.0608 
.0669 
.0691 
.0715 
.0737 
.0760 
.0821 
.0847 
.0867 
.0890 
.0916 
.0973 
.0995 
.1019 
.1041 
.1065 
.1125 
.1149 
.1171 
.1194 
.1217 
.1277 
.1299 
.1323 
.1345 
.136J 
.1430 
.1453 
.1475 
.1499 
.1522 
.1580 
.1604 
.1627 
.1649 
.1673 
.1734 
.1757 
.1779 
.1803 
.1825 
.1886 
.1908 


fmim 


718 


KEPORT  OF  TABIFP  BOARD   ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDUIiE  K. 


719 


Table  2 — Continued. 


Table  3. 


Picks  per  woven  Inch. 


31  and  32.. 

33  and  34.. 

35  and  36.. 

37  and  38.. 

39  and  40.. 

41  and  42.. 

43  and  44.. 

45  and  46.. 

47  and  48.. 

49  and  50.. 

61  and  52. . 

53  and  54.. 

65  and  56 . . 

67  and  58.. 

69  and  60.. 

61  and  62.. 

63  and  64.. 

65  and  66.. 

67  and  68.. 

69  and  70.. 

71  and  72. . 

73  and  74.. 

75  and  76.. 

77  and  78.. 

79  and  80.. 

81  and  82.. 

83  and  84.. 

85  and  86 . . 

87  and  88.. 

89  and  90.. 

91  and  92.. 

93  and  94.. 

95  and  96.. 

97  and  98.. 

99  and  100.. 

101  and  102 

103  and  104. 

105  and  106. 

107  and  108. 

109  and  110. 

Ill  and  112. 

113  and  114. 

115  and  116. 

117  and  118. 

119  and  120. 


Colored  worsteds. 


Female  weaver. 


Ibeum. 


1  shnttte. 


to.  0330 
.0360 
.0365 
.0406 
.0411 
.0438 
.0466 
.0461 
.0492 
.0507 
.0512 
.0542 
.0573 
.0588 
.0593 
.0624 
.0639 
.0669 
.0674 
.0689 
.0720 
.0750 
.0755 
.0771 
0803 
.0831 
.0841 
.0852 
.0882 
nmu 

.0902 
.0933 
.0963 
.0978 
.0983 
.  1014 
.1029 
.1059 
.1065 
.1080 
.1110 
.1141 
.1146 
.1161 
.1191 


2  shuttles.  3  shuttles. 


10.0360 
.0365 
.0385 
.0400 
.0446 
.0451 
.0471 
.0502 
.0532 
.0537 
.0568 

.0593 

.0617 

.0644 

.0674 

.0684 

.0700 

.0730 

.0760 

.0756 

.0786 

.0816 

.0836 

.0841 

.0872 

.0892 

.0807 

.0928 

•  (IiHn!I 

.0978 
.0983 
.1014 
.1034 
.1066 
.1070 
.1090 
.1120 
.1130 
.1146 
.1176 
.1206 
.1212 
.1232 
.1262 


10.0365 
.0385 
.0426 
.0461 
.0456 
.0487 
.0512 
.0517 
.0547 
.0573 
.0603 
.0608 
.0639 
.0664 
.0669 
.0700 
.  0725 
.0755 
.0760 
.0786 
.0816 
.0821 
.0852 
.0877 
.0907 
.0912 
.0938 
.0968 
.0973 

UtOtOtk 
•  vwww 

.1039 
.1050 
.1065 
.1090 
.1120 
.  1125 
.1161 
.1181 
.1212 
.1217 
.1242 
.1272 
.1277 
.1303 
.1333 


2  beams. 


4  shuttles.  2  shuttles.  3  shuttles.  4  shuttles. 


10.0411 

SO.  0441 

.0441 

.0-187 

.0446 

.0507 

.0478 

.0527 

.0509 

.0547 

.0514 

.0568 

.0547 

.0613 

.0578 

.0634 

.0608 

.0654 

.0615 

.0674 

.0645 

.0694 

.0676 

.0740 

.0679 

.0760 

.0701 

.0781 

.0745 

.0801 

.0752 

.0821 

.0782 

.0841 

0813 

.0887 

.0818 

.0907 

.0852 

.0928 

.0882 

.0948 

.0912 

.0968 

.0918 

.1014 

.0950 

.1034 

.09f!0 

.1064 

r0985 

.1076 

.1019 

.1096 

.1049 

.1116 

.1064 

.1161 

.1087 

.1181 

.1117 

.1201 

.1147 

.1222 

.  1152 

.1243 

.1186 

.1288 

.1217 

.1308 

.1222 

.1328 

.1264 

.1348 

.1284 

.1369 

.1289 

.1389 

.1363 

.1409 

.1350 

.1455 

.1364 

.1476 

.1389 

.1495 

.  1421 

.1516 

.1426 

.1661 

SO.  0456 
.0507 
.0527 
.0547 
.0568 
.0588 
.0639 
.0659 
.0679 
.0700 
.0720 
.0771 
.0791 
.0811 
.0831 
.0852 
.0872 
.0923 
.0943 
.0963 
.0983 
.1004 
.1054 
.1075 
.1095 
.1116 
.1136 
.1156 
.1206 
.1227 
.1247 
.1267 
.1288 
.1338 
.1360 
.1379 
.1399 
.1419 
.1440 
.1460 
.1511 
.1631 
.1661 
.1571 
.1622 


$0.0478 
.0537 
.0558 
.0578 
.0698 
.0618 
.0676 
.0696 
.0716 
.0737 
.  0757 
.0816 
.0836 
.0857 
.0877 
.0807 
.0918 
.0976 
.0905 
.1016 
1036 
.1056 
.1115 
.1136 
.1156 
.117» 
.1196 
.  1217 
.1274 
.1204 
.1315 
.1336 
.1365 
.  1414 
.1436 
.1466 
.1475 
.1495 
.1516 
.1536 
.1503 
.1614 
.1634 
.1654 
.1713 


Picks  per  woven  inch. 


31  and  32... 

33 and  34... 

35 and  30... 

37  and  38... 

39anl40... 

41  and  42... 

43  and  44... 

45  and  46... 

47 and  48... 

40  and  50... 

51  and  52... 

63  and  54... 

55  and  56... 

67  and  58... 

69 and  60... 

61  and  62... 

63  and  64... 

65  and  (Mi... 

67  and  (18  . . 

69 and  70... 

71  and  72... 

73  and  74... 

75  and  70... 

77  and  78... 

79 and  80... 

81  and  82... 

83  and  84... 

85and8n... 

87  and  88... 

89  and  90... 

91  and  92... 

93  and  94... 

95  and  96... 

97  and  98... 

09  and  100.. 

101  and  102. 

103  and  104. 

105  and  106. 

107  and  108. 

109  and  110. 

Ill  and  112. 

113  and  114. 

115  and  116. 

117  and  118. 

119  and  120. 


Single  white  worsted. 


Male  weaver. 


1  beam. 


1  shuttle. 


SO. 


.0345 
,0365 
,0385 
,0400 
,0421 
,0441 
.0461 
,0482 
.0497 
.0517 
.0537 
.0558 
.  0578 
.0593 
.  0()13 
.  0(>34 
.0654 
.0674 
.0689 
.0710 
.0730 
0750 
.0771 
.0786 
.0806 
,0826 
.0847 
.0867 
.0882 
.0902 
.0923 
.0943 
.0963 
.0978 
.0999 
.1019 
.1039 
.1059 
.1075 
.1095 
.1115 
.1136 
.1156 
.1171 
.1191 


2  shuttles. 


SO.  0365 
.0385 
.0400 
.0426 
.0446 
.0466 
.0482 
.0502 
.0527 
.0547 
.0568 
.0583 
.0603 
.0629 
.0649 
.0669 
.0684 
.0705 
.0730 
.0750 
.0771 
.0784 
.0806 
.0831 
.0852 
.0867 
.0887 
.0907 
0933 
.0953 
.0968 
.0989 
.1009 
.1034 
.1054 
.1070 
.1090 
.1110 
.1136 
.1156 
.1171 
.1191 
.1212 
.1237 
.1252 


Female  weaver. 


1  l>eam. 


1  shuttle.  2  shuttles 


SO.  0294 

.0299 

.0330 

.0335 

.0365 

.0370 

.0375 

.0406 

.0436 

.0441 

.0446 

.0477 

.0507 

.0512 

.0517 

.0547 

.0553 

.0583 

.0588 

.0593 

.0624 

.0654 

.0684 

.0689 

.0694 

.0725 

.0730 

.0760 

.0765 

.0771 

.0801 

.0831 

.0836 

.0841 

.0872 

.0902 

.0907 

.0912 

.0943 

.0948 

.0978 

.0983 

.1014 

.1019 

.1049 


Serges. 


SO. 0299 
.0330 
0360 
.0370 
.0375 
.0406 
.0416 
.0446 
.  0451 
.0401 
.0492 
.0522 
.0527 
.0537 
.0.T68 
.0598 
.0608 
.0613 
.0642 
.0652 
.0683 
.0689 
.0720 
.0730 
.0760 
.0765 
.0776 
.0800 
.0830 
.0847 
.0852 
.0882 
.0912 
.0923 
.0928 
.0958 
.0968 
.0973 
.1004 
.1014 
.1044 
.1049 
.1080 
.1090 
.1119 


Female  weaver. 


Ibeam 


1  shuttle. 


Looms 
|110tol2) 

2  shuttles.  P^°^- 


SO.  0243 

.0259 

.0274 

.0279 

.0294 

.0309 

.0324 

.0340 

.0355 

.0370 

.0385 

.0400 

.0416 

.0419 

.0434 

.0449 

.0456 

.0471 

.0487 

.0502 

.0517 

.0532 

.0547 

.0553 

.0568 

.0583 

.0598 

.0613 

.0629 

.0634 

.0649 

.0664 

.0679 

.0694 

.0710 

.0725 

.0730 

.0745 

.0760 

.0776 

.0791 

.0806 

.0821 

.0820 

.0841 


SO.  0259 
.0274 
.0289 
.0299 
.0314 
.0330 
.0345 
.0360 
.0375 
.0385 
.0400 
.0416 
.0431 
.0446 
.0451 
.0466 
.0487 
.0502 
.0517 
.0532 
.0547 
.0553 
.0568 
.0588 
.0603 
.0618 
.0634 
.0639 
.0654 
.0674 
.0689 
.0705 
.0720 
.0725 
.0740 
.0755 
.0776 
.0791 
.0806 
.0811 
.0826 
.0841 
.0857 
.0877 
.0892 


SO.  0183 
.0193 
.0203 
.0213 
.0223 
.0233 
■r0243 
.0253 
.0264 
.0274 
.0284 
.0294 
.0304 
.0314 
.0324 
.0335 
.0345 
.0355 
.0365 
.0375 
.0385 
.0395 
.0406 
.0416 
.0426 
.0436 
.0446 
.0456 
.0466 
.0477 
.0487 
.0497 
.0.'J07 
.0517 
.0527 
.0537 
.0547 
.0^58 
.0568 
.0578 
.0588 
.0598 
.0608 
.0618 
.0629 


Tlie  next  table,  Table  4,  presents  the  weavers'  waf^e  scale  for  Colne 
Valley  goods,  and  distinguishes  between  the  rate  paid  to  male  weavers 
over  21  years  of  age  and  to  females  and  male  weavers  under  21  years 
of  age.     The  table  should  be  read  as  follows : 

To  find  the  weaver's  rate  per  yard  on  any  cloth  having  a  known 
number  of  j)icks  to  the  inch,  say,  for  instance,  30  picks,  find  30  in  the 
column  of  picks  per  inch,  and  following  the  line  across  it  will  be  found 
that  for  two-shuttle  work  the  rate  is  3.65  cents  per  yard,  for  three- 
shuttle  work  it  is  3.87  cents  per  yard,  etc.,  if  woven  by  men;  while  if 
woven  by  females  or  youths  it  is  3.09  cents  per  yard  on  two-shuttle 
work,  3.3  cents  on  three-shuttle  work,  etc. 


'H  il 


720 


REPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


TjkBLs  4. — Rates  o/vmgesfor  weavers  in  England  on  Colne  Valley  goods. 


\ 

WmTera*  scale. 

Picks  per  inch. 

Men  yrmx&m. 

Male  and  female  weavers  under  21 
years  of  age. 

Kate 

yard 

for  2 

shuttles. 

Rate 

per 

yard 

for  3 

:  shuttles. 

Rate 

yard 

for  4 

shuttles. 

Rate 

yard 

for  5 

shuttles. 

Rate 

per 

yard 

lore 

shuttles. 

Rate 
per 

yard 

for  2 

shuttles. 

Rate 

yard 
for  3 

shuttles. 

Rate 

per 

yard 

for  4 

shuttles. 

Rate 

per 

yard 

for  5 

shuttles. 

9and  10 

to.  0102 
.0182 
.0204 
.0217 
.0243 
.0265 
.0284 
.0304 
.0320 
.0343 
.0365 
.0387 
.0403 
.0426 
.0449 
.0472 

""Mil' 

.0532 
.ft't58 
.0578 
.0600 
.0617 
.0639 
.0662 
.0684 
.0713 
.0723 
.0730 
.0771 
.0791 

to.  0182 
.0204 
.0223 
.0243 
.0266 
.0282 
.0304 
.0326 
.0343 
.0365 
.0387 
.0404 
.0426 
.0448 
.0478 
.0496 

".0639' 

.0688 
.0608 
.0630 
.0647 
.0669 
.0097 
.0724 
.0730 
.0759 
.0782 
.0813 
.0830 

to.  0213 
.0233 
,0252 
.0274 
.0295 
.0313 
.0335 
.0356 
.0374 
.0393 
.0417 
.0436 
.0456 
.0478 
.0513 
.0533 

"'.6574' 
.0594 
.0632 
.0653 
.0640 
.0692 
.0714 
.0750 
.0759 
.0792 
.0811 
.0834 
.0872 
.0892 

to. 0243 
.0204 
.0284 
.0304 
.0323 
.0345 
.0366 

.{mi 

.0406 
.0426 
.0446 
.0466 
.0487 
.0507 
.0550 
.0571 

"'.'wii' 

.0<i30 
.0679 
.0700 
.0?20 
.0740 
.0760 
.0791 
.0824 
.0844 
.0863 
.0885 
.0934 

to.  0274 
.0294 
.0316 
.0336 
.0349 
.0377 
.0395 
.0417 
.0437 
.0448 
.0475 
.0497 
.0517 

.awo 

.0588 
.0608 

".0649" 
.0666 
.0727 
.0746 
.0705 
.0788 
.0807 
.0831 
.0875 
.0897 
.0904 
.0936 
.09% 

11  arid  12 

13  and  14 

to.  0169 
.0181 
.0197 
.0225 
.0232 
.0248 
.0282 
.0287 
.0309 
.0326 
.0361 
.0362 
.0375 
.0411 
.0436 
.0456 
.0401 
.0491 
.0508 
.0513 
.0543 
.0574 
.0587 
.0521 
.0023 
.0639 
.0609 

to.  0175 
.0196 
.0219 
.0233 
.0262 
.0271 
.0304 
.0309 
.0330 
.0361 
.0365 
.0385 
.0398 
.0446 
.0452 
.0472 
.0500 
.0530 
.0537 
.0556 
.0587 
.0594 
.0616 
.0643 
.0674 
.0681 
.0701 

to.  0190 
.0219 
.0236 
.0252 
.0280 
.0288 
.0313 
.0346 
.0374 
.0401 
.0411 
.0439 
.0445 
.0472 
.0503 
.0530 
.0537 
.0568 
.0597 
.0598 
.0634 
.0662 
.0689 
.0605 
.0726 
.0753 
.0758 

to.' 0209 
.0238 
.0263 
.0271 
.0298 
.0307 
.0332 
.0364 
.0393 
.0420 
.0430 
.0458 
.0463 
.0491 
.0624 
.054d 
.0556 

15  and  16 

17  and  18 

19  and  20 

21  and  22 

23  and  24 

25  and  20 

27  and  28 

29  and  30 

31  and  32 

33  and  34 

35  and  36 

37  and  38 

39  and  40 

41  and  42 

43  and  44 

45  and  46 

47  and  48 

49  and  50 

.0587 
.0616 
.0617 
.0663 
.0681 
.0708 
.0720 
.0744 
.0771 
.0811 

island  52 

53  and  54 

65  and  50 

67  and  58 

69  and  60 

61  and  62 

63  and  04 

65  and  GO 

67  and  68 

69  and  70 

1 

Tlie  standard  scale  of  weavers'  rates  per  yard  on  meltons  and 
twills  in  tlie  Yerdon  and  Quiseley  distnct  (England)  is  given  in 
Table  5  below. 

The  original  scale  gives  rates  per  cut  of  64  yards,  and  tliis  has  been 
worked  out  on  a  yard  basis  in  Table  5  below  so  far  as  the  actual 
rates  were  concerned  and  for  the  extras  which  would  ordinarily  affect 
the  rate.  The  extras  referred  to  in  the  prefatory  text  have  not  been 
converted  into  yard  ecjuivalents,  but  refer  to  a  cut  of  64  yards.  That 
is  to  say,  anytliing  in  the  table  itself  refers  to  yards,  but  in  the 
prefatory  statement,  where  it  is  stated  that  6d.  extra  is  given  for 
each  additional  four  shafts  and  for  each  extra  shuttle,  tms  means 
6d.  to  each  cut  of  64  yards.  For  purposes  of  definition  these  prefa- 
tory notes  have  been  retained  as  thev  were  in  the  original,  the  scale 
itself  having  been  reduced  to  a  1 -yard  unit  and  the  rate  expressed  in 
United  States  money  equivalents. 

STANDARD  SCALE  OF  RATES  PER  YARD  FOR  WEAVERS  IN  YERDON 
AND  QUISELEY  DISTRICT,  ENGLAND,  ON  MELTONS  AND  TWILLS 
WOVEN  WITH  SINGLE  WEFT  AND  SINGLE  SHUTTLE;  AND  ADDI- 
TIONAL  RATES   FOR   VARIATIONS. 

White  cotton  warps,  woven  twOl  with  gray  wefts,  4  shafts,  30 
to  39  picks~~6d.  less  than  twill  scale: 
That  the  standard  length  of  all  warps  be  64  yards  per  cut. 


REPORT  OF   TARIFF  BOARD  OK   SCHEDUIiE  K. 


721 


The  length  of  warp  to  be  stated  on  the  weaver's  tickets,  and  if 
any  doubt  arise,  the  weaver  be  allowed  to  measure. 

That  the  normal  width  be  68  inches  in  the  reed  within  lists. 

Weaves:  A  melton  is  defined  as  a  weave  with  2  picks  to  the  round, 
the  shed  changing  each  pick.  A  twill  means  every  weave  up  to 
8  shafts  except  melton. 

Shafts:  Every  additional  4  shafts  or  part  thereof  shall  be  paid  6d. 

extra. 

Shuttles:  Every  additional  shuttle  6d.  extra. 

A  worsted  warp,  2/20's  count  and  below  shall  be  as  cotton.  Cotton 
and  worsted  mixed  shall  be  as  cotton.  Worsted  and  woolen  mixed 
shall  be  as  woolen.     Cotton  and  woolen  twist  warps,  6d.  extra. 

Iable  5. — Additional  rates. 


TwiU. 

1  weft. 

2  v^fts. 

3  wefts. 

4  wefts. 

5  weftK. 

Picks  per  inch. 

Melton. 

2  shuttles. 

2  shuttles. 

3  shuttles. 

4  shuttles. 

5  shuttles. 

IQ 

$0.0133 
.0152 
.0171 
.0190 
.0209 
.0228 
.0247 
.0266 
.0285 
.0304 
.0323 
.0342 

to.  0171 
.0190 
.0209 
.0228 
.0247 
.0266 
.0285 
0304 
.0323 
.0342 
.0361 
.0380 

to. 0019 
.0019 
.0019 
.0019 
.0019 
.0019 
.0019 
.0019 
.0019 
.0022 
.0022 
.0022 

$0.0048 
.0048 
.0048 
.0057 
.0057 
.0057 
.0057 
.0057 
.0057 
.0067 
.0067 
.0067 

$0.0067 
.0007 
.0067 
.0076 
.0076 
.0076 
.0076 
.0076 
.0076 
.0086 
.0086 
.0086 

$0.0086 
.0086 
.0086 
.0095 
.0095 
.0095 
.0095 
.0095 
,0095 
.0105 
.0105 
.0105 

$0.0105 

20  to  24 

25  to  29 

.0105 
.0105 

30  to  34 

.0114 

35  to  39 

.0114 

40  to  44 

.0114 

45  to  49 

.0114 

£0  to  5 ! 

.0114 

65  to  59 

.0114 

60  to  04 

.0124 

65  to  09 

.0124 

70  to  74 

0124 

Picks  per  inch. 

Odd 

picks. 

Blow 
looms. 

9  to  12 

shafts  in- 
clusive. 

13  to  16 
shafts  in- 
clusive. 

Woolen 

threads 

in  cotton 

warps. 

Woolen 
warps. 

Harness 
figures. 

Extra 
beams. 

15  to  19       

to.  0019 
.0019 
.0019 
.0019 
.0019 
.0019 
.0019 
.0019 
.0019 
.0019 
.0019 
.0019 

■■ 1 

to.  0038 
.0038 
.0038 
.0038 
.0038 
.0038 
.0038 
.0038 
.0038 
.0038 
.0038 
.0038 

to.  0019 
.0019 
.0019 
.0019 
.0019 
.0019 
.0019 
.0019 
.0019 
.0019 
.0019 
.0019 

$0.0038 
.0038 
.0038 
.0038 
.0038 
.0038 
.0038 
.0038 
.0038 
.0038 
.0038 
.0038 

$0.0019 
.0019 
.0019 
.0019 
.0019 
.0019 
.0019 
.0019 
.0019 
.0019 
.0019 
.0019 

$0.0038 

.0038 
.0038 
.0038 
.0038 
.0038 
.0038 
.0038 
.0038 
.0038 
.0038 
.0038 

$0.0038 
.0038 
.0038 
.0038 
.0038 
.0038 
.0038 
.0038 
.0038 
.0038 
.0038 
.0038 

$0.0038 

20to24     

.0038 

25tol:9     

.0038 

30  to  34     

.0038 

35to39     

.0038 

40  to  44 

.0038 

45  to  49 

.0038 

50  to  54 

.0038 

55  to  59       

.0038 

60  to  64 : 

.0038 

65toC9  

.0038 

70  to  74 

.0038 

Width. 

Picks  per  inch. 

Exceeding 

68  and  not 

exceeding  81 

Exceeding 
81  and  not 
.  exceeding  90. 

Exceeding 
90  and  not 
exceeding  99.  i 

Exceeding 

99  and  not 

jxceeding  108. 

Exceeding 

108  and  not 

exceeding  117.  < 

Exceeding 

117  and  not 

exceeding  126. 

15  to  19 

to.  0019 
.0019 
.0019 
.0019 
.0019 
.0019 
.0019 
.0019 
.0019 
.0019 
.0017 
.0019 

to.  0038 
.0038 
.0038 
.0038 
.0038 
.0038 
.0038 
.0038 
.0038 
.0038 
.0038 
.0038 

t0.00.j7 
.0057 
.0057 
.0057 
.0057 
.0057 
.0057 
.0057 
.0057 
.0057 
.0057 
.0057 

$0.0095 
.0095 
.0095 
.0095 
.0095 
.0095 
.0095 
.0095 
.0095 
.0095 
.0095 
.0095 

$0.0133 
.0133 
.0133 
.0133 
.0133 
.0133 
.0133 
.0133 
.0133 
.0133 
.0133 
.0133 

$0.0171 

20  to  24 

.0171 

25  to  29 

.0171 

30  to  34 

.0171 

35  to  39 

.0171 

40  to  44 

.0171 

45  to  49 

.0171 

60  to  54 

.0171 

55  to  59 

.0171 

60  to  64 

.0171 

65  to  69 

.0171 

70  to  74 

.0209 

722 


REPORT  OF  T.4RIFP  BOARD   ON  SCHEDULE   K. 


Tliere  follow  four  local  establishments  weavers'  scales  for  various 
parts  of  England    which,  in  view  of  what  has  already  been  said  in 
explanation  of  other  scales,  will  be  readily  understood,  it  is  believed 
without  further  comment:  ' 


Establishment  No.  1. 
IThls  scale  is  based  on  two  shuttles.] 


Worsted  warps,  unsized. 


Picks  per 
incli. 


Cotton  warps,  plain  blacks. 


Rate  per 

yard. 


30  to  32 
33  to  35 
36  to  38 
39  to  41 
42 
43  to  45 
46  to  48 
49  to  51 
52  to  54 
55  to  57 
58  to  60 
61  to  63 
64  to  66 
67  to  69 
70  to  72 
73  to  75 
76  to  78 
79  to  81 


10.0345 
.0378 
.0411 
.0443 
.0476 
.0509 
.0542 
.0675 
.0607 
.0641 
.0673 
.0705 
.0739 
.0771 
.0805 
.0837 
.0871 
.0903 


Picks  p«?r 
inch. 


20  to  22 
23  to  25 
26  to  28 
29  to  31 
32  to  34 
35  to  37 
38  to  40 
41  to  43 
44  to  46 
47  to  49 
50  to  52 
53  to  55 
56  to  58 
59  to  61 
62  to  64 
65  to  67 
66 
6910  71 


Rato  per 
yard. 


10.0263 
.0295 
.0328 
.0361 
.0394 
.0427 
.0460 
.0492 
.0525 
.0574 
.0591 
.0613 
.0657 
.0689 
.0723 
.0755 
.0788 
.0821 


JEsiablishment  No.  2. 
(Slow  looms.] 


Picks  per  inch. 


Earnings     per     yard     for 
lengths  of— 


21.. 

24... 

27.. 

30.. 

33... 

36... 

i>9. . . 

42... 

45... 

48... 

51... 

54... 

67... 

60... 

63... 

66... 


60  yards. 


to.  0356 
.a388 
.0421 
.0454 
.0486 
.0542 
.0566 

.Uuwv 

.0630 
.0664 
.0680 
.0744 
.0745 
.0808 
.0842 
.0890 


78  yards. 


Picks  per  inch. 


10.0366  1  69 
.0401  72 
.0434 
.0469 
.0502 
.0551 
.0564 
.0619 
.0653 
.0687 
.0736 
.0709 
.0604 
.0638 
.0871 
.0921 


75 

%l 

84 

87 

90 

93 ■  ■ 

96 

WW. 

102 ■ 

106 

108 

Ill 

114 
117 


Earnings    per    vard    for 
lengths  01— 


CO  yards. 


78  yards. 


Fancy  tweeds  usually  60  yards  warp,  19i  strings. 

Worsted  and  serges  80  yards  warp,  2.>f  strings. 

1  stnng=3  yards  and  3  infhes. 

Extra  shuttles  over  2  paid  for. 

All  extra  beams  paid  for. 

Fast  looms  20  per  cent  less  than  above  wages. 

other  particulars  same. 


10.0923 

SO.  0954 

.0956 

.0988 

.0986 

.1020 

.1068 

.0978 

.1101 

.1130 

.1134 

.1170 

.1148 

.1206 

.1164 

.0961 

.1233 

.1272 

.1279 

.1322 

.1314 

.1355 

.1346 

.1389 

.1394 

.1439 

.1425 

.1472 

.1055 

.1118 

BEPOET  OF  TABIFF  BOABD   ON  SCHKDTJLB  K. 


723 


Establishment  No.  J,  Pudsey  (near  Leeds). 
[Length  of  pieces  woven,  80  yards.] 


Picks  per  inch. 


32 

3!) 

3(i 
30 
30 
40 
40 
42 


Width  in 
inches. 


64 
63 
64 
64 
64 
62 
63 
64 


Rate  per 
yard. 


10.0223 
.0243 
.0213 
.0243 
.0274 
.0301 
.0301 
.0243 


Picks  per  inch. 


42 
44 
44 
54 
54 
54 
60 


Width  in 

Rate  per 
yard. 

inches. 

64 

10.0314 

63 

.0321) 

64 

.0320 

64 

.0395 

64 
64i 

.0395 

.042.5 

63 

.0435 

Rates  of  wages  for  weavers  in  an  English  woolen  mill. 
[Single-beam  work.    This  woolen  scale  is  based  upon  one  shuttle.) 


Picks  per  inch. 


18  to  20 
21  to  23 
24  to  26 
27  to  29 


Rate  per  yard. 


$0.0244 
.0286 
.0319 
.0352 


Picks  i)er  inch. 


30  to  32 
33  to  35 
36  to  38 
39  to  41 


Rate  per  yard 


SO. 0385 
.0417 
.0451 
.0483 


Slow  looms:  50  picks  per  minute. 
Fast  looms:  80  to  100  picks  per  minute. 

In  addition  to  the  preceding  wage  scales,  actual  rates  paid  on 
specific  cloths  were  secured  in  a  number  of  cases.  The  following 
tables  describe  these  fabrics  and  give  the  weaver's  rate  in  each  case. 

Table  No.  6  is  based  upon  cloths  selected  to  match  samples  of 
American  goods  used  as  the  basis  for  the  general  cost  inquiry.  These 
rates  are  all  for  two-loom  work. 

Table  No.  7  gives  the  rates  for  a  large  number  of  specified  cloths 
of  English  make.  It  is  mostly  one-loom  work  in  the  Huddersfield 
district. 


724        REPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 

Tablb  6.— Ctoi*«  woven  in  EngiM  mills,  ffiving  dmcnption  of  fabric  and  weaving  rat€§. 


EEPOKT  OF  TAEIFF  BOAED   ON  SCHEDULE   K. 


725 


Name  of  cloth. 


X) 


Pleoe  dye  suittng. 
Mm'sserge 


Men's  blue  serge 

Fancy  piece  dyed  worsted . 

Black  clay  worsted 

Fancy  worsted  salting 

Fancy  worsted 

Fancy  woolen  cassimere. . . 


Fancy  woolen. 


Fancy  woolen  overcoating. 
Cotton  warp  casslmere 


Woolen  cloth,  cotton  warp. 

Women's  Panama 

Brillantine 

Woolen  cloth, cotton  warp. 
Women's  serge,cotton  warp 
Women's  batiste 

All-wool  Panama. . . . 

All-wool  broadcloth. 
Women's  broadcloth 
Covert  cloth 


Indies 
30 
56 
57 
58 
58 
58 
58 
58 

55 


All-wool  tweed. . . 
All-wool  sacking.. 
All-wool  Panama. 


All-wool  serge. 


Women's  cheviot 

Women's  gray  worsted . . , 


>  Cotton. 


57     16 


54 

56 
34 
40 
36 
36 
42 
54 
54 
40 
42 
54 
50 

54 

56 

57 

54 

54 

50 

36 

40 

50 

54 

54 

54 

54 

55 

60 


Ouneu 
7 

10.5 
11 
13 
12 
16 
11.5 
16.5 

17 


•OS 
8 


u 
0- 


40 


25.25 

24 
3, 
3 

4.60 
4.53 
4.03 
7.45 
8.50 
3.75 
5.25 
7.77 
5.50 
11 

11.5 
10 

15.76 
11.23 
9.75 
4.96 
5.76 
7.7 
9.61 
9.61 
12.63 
14.14 
9.93 
14 


4 

4 

4 
4 
4 
4 
4 
8 

8 
4 

12 

4 

3 

12 

16 

2 

2 

4 

2 

3 

2 

2 

2 

3 

3 

3 


m 

a 


<s 


4 
6 
4 
4 
4 
4 
4 
4 
6 
8 
4 


58X60 
73X63 
54X52 
66X52 
76X58 
78X70 
70X61 
76X66 

40X45 

53X48 

57X54 

26X26 

80X108 

64X50 

6.5X50 

92X47 

02X54 

08X56 

30X24 

70X50 

48X54 

44X40 

48X36 

71X55 

71X56 

74X62 

76X39 

33X30 

68X40 

49X46 

66X48 

57X44 

82X71 

56X45 

39X35 

38X34 

26X24 

77X70 


•WoiBted. 


'8 


S^ 


2/24 
2/44 
2/30 
2/30 
2/36 
2/30 
2/36 
2/30 

14 
24 
12 

H 

»l/36 

»l/45 

U/20  I 

U/20 

U/38 

U/16 

M/28 

U/36 

2/48 

2/36 

2/40 

1/34 

1/33 

2/74 

2/44 
15J 

1/40 

2/42 

2/42 

2/32 

2/50 
2f32 
2/18 
2/17 
2/17 
2/38 


t3 
«   . 


Locality. 


1/18 
1/24 
1/18 
1/14 
1/26 
1/18 
1/28 
2/32 

21 
24 


Bradford 


12 

7 
a  1/56 
«l/30 
«l/20 
»l/30 
«l/26 
«l/25 
13 
«I/50 
2/42 
2/30 
1/32 
1/14 
1/33  I 
1/181, 
12 
15^' 
24 
1/22 
1/24 
1/22 
2/50 
1/20 
2/18 
2/17 
2/17 
2/38 


Bradford 

---.do 

— do 

....do 

do 

Huddersiield-. 

...do 

Leeds 

— do 

Hudders:  eld.. 

Ijfleds 

Huddersfield., 
Bradford 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

Leeds 

Bradford 

—  .do 

do 

..do 

.do 

do 

do 

Leeds 

do 

do 

Bradford.... 

do , 

do 

do , 

do 

do 

do 


tea 


Cents. 
0.700 


.586 
.614 
1.214 
1.221 
1.107 
3  557 
2.214 
1.800 
1.  v4o 
2.214 
2.550 
1.914 
1.400 
.807 
.414 
.471 
.357 
.386 
..S57 
.686 
.357 
.386 
.357 
.579 
.907 
1.021 
.907 
1.386 
1.100 
1.421 
.450 
.471 
.579 
1.257 
.586 
.557 
.529 
.4*3 


-tiO !  1.343 


'Luster  worsted. 


§4 


Cenu, 
0.380 


.198 

.204 

.306 

.301 

.313 

.929 

.8^5 

.727 

.710 

.809 

.875 

.056 

.962 

.219 

.207 

.262 

.211 

.170 

.184 

.529 

.170 

.170 

.165 

.322 

.305 

.326 

.257 

.658 

.679 

.711 

.272 

.245 

.2<a. 

.323 
.241 
.295 
.2S8 
.336 
.320 


Table  7.— Weaving  rates  per  yard  and  per  1,000  picks  on  woolen  and  worsted  cloths  woven 

in  English  mills. 


•Kame  of  cloth. 


Tweed..- 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Vicuna 

Fancy  tweed . . . 
Mixture  vicuna. 
Vicuna 


Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Flannel.. 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Tweed 

Do 

Cheviot 

Do 

Melton 

Do 

UU  Do 

Worsted 

AVoolen 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Covert 

Worsted  (fancy). 

Do 

Do 

Woolen  (fancy). . 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Bealg 

Worsted 

Do 

Do 

Do 


Do 

Do 

Worsted  (fancy) 

Woolen 

Do 

Cotton  (reversible) 

AVooIen 

Cotton  and  woolen  (reversible) 
Worsted 

Do 

Do 


Do. 
Do. 


I 

o 
O 


76 
76 
72 
72 
64 
64 
72 
72 
72 
72 
65 
65 
62 
62 
61 
61 
68 
68 
74 
68 
74 
74 
74 
74 
74 
74 
64 
64 
64 
64 
76 
76 
68 
68 
74 
74 
74 
72 


68 

64 

69 

64 

61 

56 

72 

56 

54 

78 

74 

74 

03 

74 

74J 

74 

73i 

74i 

64^ 

64 

68 

68 

76. 

54 

76 

79 

721 

74 

72 

73i 


66 
56 
54 
54 
54 
54 
56 
56 
56 
56 
54 
54 
54 
54 
54 
54 
56 
56 
56 
56 
56 
56 
56 
56 
56 
56 
54 
54 
54 
54 
64 
64 
54 
54 


68 
66 
54 


50 


Ounces. 

30 

30 

32 

32 

18/19 

18/19 

20/21 

20/21 

,     20 

20 

15 

15 

20 

20 

19 

19 

18 

16 

18 

16 

32 

21 

20 

30 

19 

28 

13 

13 

13 

13 

25/26 

25/26 

16/17 

16/17 


22 


15 


2,210 
2,210 
2,580 
2,580 
2,240 
2,210 
2,660 
2,660 
2,260 
2,260 
2,600 
2,600 
1,488 
1,488 
4,880 
4,880 
3.060 
2,178 
2,220 
3,060 
2,220 
1,998 
2,220 
1,848 
2,664 
1,776 
3,070 
3,070 
3,060 
3,080 
1,370 
1,370 
2,130 
2,130 


1,292 
2,299 
2,432 
1,748 
974 
3,078 
5,860 
3,600 
3,150 
1,750 
2,070 
2.760 
3,404 
1,558 
5,412 
7,215 
11,029 
4,338 

7,398 

7,884 
7,798 
1,220 
1,292 
3,404 
1,970 
4,640 
3,340 
6,998 
7,254 

6,892 

4,338 


9 

9 

9 

9 

16/30 

16/30 

20 

20 

20 

20 

22 

22 

8 

8 

12/30 

12/30 

«2/48 

15 

15 

«2/48 

8 

12 

15 

8 

18 

8 

20 


20 
20 
6 
6 
18 
18 


»105 

«  400/20 

«300 

«200 

•105 

*  36/24 

2/48 

2/48 

2/22 

lOJ 

175 

«120 


2/24 
2/48 
2/36 
2/62 
3/55 
2/48 
2/36 
2/48 
2/50 
«200 
8  106 


2/48 
2/36 
4/48 
2/36 
2/29 
2/56 


o  a 

Is, 


} 


27 
27 
36 
36 
36 
36 
34 
34 
38 
38 
42 
42 
24 
24 
65 
66 
39 
38 
30 
34 
30 
31 
32 
27 
36 
27 
1/30 
1/30 
1/30 
1/30 
20 
20 
38 
38 
37 
68 
37 
46 
22 
36 
38 
36 
14 
42 
60 
91 
44 
28 
30 
22 
26 
26 
76 
60 
80 
116 

63 

70 
71 
24 
22 
30 
30 
30 
94 
109 
62 

61 

116 


I 


Xi 

7^ 


2 
2 
3 
3 
3 
3 
2 
2 
2 
2 
3 
4 
2 
2 
3 
3 
3 
3 
3 
3 
3 
3 
3 
3 
3 
3 
2 
2 
2 
2 
3 
3 
3 
3 
1 
1 
1 
2 
3 
3 
4 
3 
4 
3 
2 
2 
2 
2 
4 
1 
1 
1 
2 
1 
1 
1 


2 
2 
3 
3 
2 
2 
1 
1 
2 
2 


% 


8 
8 
8 
8 
8 
8 

12 

12 
8 
8 
8 
8 
4 
4 
8 
8 
6 

12 
6 
6 
8 
8 
8 
8 
8 
8 
8 
8 
8 
8 
8 
8 
8 
8 
4 
4 
4 

24 
4 
4 
4 

16 
4 
5 

20 

16 
8 

"io 

6 
4 
4 
16 
16 
15 
16 

19 

22 

17 

4 

5 

6 

4 

6 

16 

16 

16 

16 

\% 


Weaving 

rate— 


Ph 


Cents. 

2.539 

2.315 

4.137 

3.780 

3.808 

3.555 

3.900 

3.600 

4.396 

4.027 

5.337 

4.610 

3.000 

3.304 

6.095 

6.714 

3.600 

4.009 

2.891 

3.128 

2.816 

2.858 

2.972 

2.504 

3.326 

2.687 

5.886 

5.402 

5.984 

6.378 

2.479 

2.684 

3.944 

4.274 

2.520 

2.654 

1.964 

3.084 

2.160 

3.973 

4.612 

3.972 

2.052 

3.378 

6.125 

6.800 

4.476 

3.325 

3.600 

1.822 

2.100 

2.197 

5.800 

3.766 

4.000 

7.700 

4.566 

4.600 
4.600 
2.266 
2.160 
2.774 
3.600 
2.066 
5.968 
8.433 
4.566 

4.166 

7.700 


CeTds. 
2.611 
2.382 
3.191 
2.916 
2.938 
2.742 
3.186 
2.941 
3.213 
2.944 
3.530 
3.048 
3.472 
3.824 
2.605 
2.868 
2.564 
2.928 
2.678 
2.555 
2.607 
2.560 
2.825 
2.576 
2.566 
2.765 
2.724 
6.002 
2.761 
2.962 
3.440 
3.726 
2.882 
3.124 
L906 
1.084 
1.474 
1.862 
3.728 
3.064 
3.371 
3.065 
4.071 
2.234 
2.836 
2.075 
2.824 
3.297 
3.333 
2.300 
2.240 
2.346 
2.120 
1.743 
L389 
1.843 

2.013 

1.825 
1.800 
2.622 
2.727 
2.568 
3.333 
2.468 
1.763 
2.149 
2.045 

1.897 

1.700 


*  Cotton       2  Worsted .        ^  Yards  to  the  ounce.        *  Two  yarns  of  numbers  indicated,  twisted  together. 
32080"— H.  Doc.  342,  62-2,  vol  2 8 


726        KKPORT  OF  TAKIPF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDOIi  K. 

Weaving  rata  fer  vri  and  per  1,000  j^^  woolen  and  ^aed  clolk,  ««;«,  ,-„  £«gK^ 


RBPOBT  OF  TAEIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDUL.B  K. 


727 


Twmd,., 

Bo .„^i 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do. 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do.. 

Do.. 

Do..... ..:: 

Clfcy  twill 

Do 

tJnflniflhed  clay 

Venetian 

Campbell  twtll 

ITaflnMied  Cteltiij 

C&ytwiU 

Campbefl  twill ] 

Melton 

BlM;k  botany  twill 
Blue  botany  twCU.. 

Plain  mohair,  colored ...;  r  " ' 
Do " 

Lining: 

Colored  mohair  Victoria. . 
Twifled  alpaca  Princess.... 

Do 

Do.. 


6EHMAN  WEAVEBS'  WAGE  SCALES  AWD  AGKEEMEITrS. 


^presenting  264  estebKe^is.  ^t^  35  were t7«f '  fT^' 

the  Gera-Gre^^'^trict&Snre  S'scXtabEP.  ''"'''•  J'^ 
60  represents  22  estabUshmeX,  numbed  «  rerSift^7*'  rKT-^" 
ments,  while  number  53  repre^ntethe  LltllTJt^  estabbsh- 
establishments  in  Cottbus  M^  avlr!„rJT  "^f  ^,.R"<1  "»  40 
and  around  Forst.      """*'  ^  ^'^  average  of  36  establwhments  in 

It  was  manifestly  impossible  to  translate  and  nrint  »H  ^t  t\, 
ts'^m.^KlV"  ^  ^,^^  1°^  considerabirnuSofVem  ""l? 

d^X'^  IntSi^ttLS^alt  ^'ZVIabt  r""*  ^^ Vo"-"- 
must  sacrifice  somethinglf  the  d;tan<.  L  t  "^- "'?.-°''  «°yen8atioa 
waee  aOTepm«,rU     -rv^     i      t  «etaus  or  peculianties  of  particular 

SI  wS?S^e  m^st^'Sbi^itlT^  °^  '^  ^^^""^  «f  tabulation 
details.  ItV^^SIo  t*£?i^«^K  ^'  ^""^  ^"^"^  **>«  ^^^^^ 
weaving  rate  on  S  iT  fhett  te'from'Xh  t^°  t*\^ 

SJMe."Wr^ta^Er  *^  ^^  -feion't^thS  ^bSc^ 
fvnen  an  establishment,  or  a  group  of  establishments 


represented  by  a  wage  scale,  made  a  number  of  cloths  so  different 
from  each  other  that  a  number  of  bases  must  be  detailed  in  the  scale 
a  Una  in  the  tabulation  base  has  been  given  to  each  basic  rate.  In 
most  German  woolen  and  worsted  mills  the  unit  of  a  weaver's  pay  is 
a  thousand  picks,  or  threads  of  weft  yam  woven  into  the  cloth.  The 
record  of  his  work  is  kept  usually  by  ^^pick  clocks,"  or  instruments 
attached  to  the  loom  wluch  record  the  times  the  shuttles  shoot  across 
the  loom.  When  ''pick  clocks"  are  not  provided  the  measure  of 
picks  woven  is  taken  by  counting  the  picks  in  a  centimeter  and  then 
assuming  the  number  in  a  meter;  but  nowever  crude,  and  sometimes 
unjust  the  method  of  measuring  the  work  done,  the  unit  of  payment 
is  per  1,000  picks. 

,  The  basic  rate  therefore  assumes  (1)  a  certain  number  of  shuttles 
used  in  weaving  the  base-line  fabric,  (2)  the  number  of  harness  used 
to  weave  the  fabric,  and  (3)  the  theoretical  speed  of  the  loom.  In 
some  cases  the  base  was  further  detailed  by  aescribing  the  cloth  as 

(1)  the  picks  per  inch  (or  centimeter,  as  it  is  counted  in  Germany), 

(2)  the  width  of  the  cloth  on  the  loom,  or  as  we  would  say  "width 
in  the  reed,"  (3)  the  number  of  warp  ends,  and  (4)  a  statement  of 
the  kind  of  cloth. 

Practically  none  of  the  scales  give  all  of  these  particulars;  some 

five  little  or  nothing  more  than  that  rate  per  1,000  picks  which  is  to 
e  the  minimum  for  the  estabhshment. 

All  of  these  details  are,  however,  given,  though  not  all  by  any  one 
scale,  and  as  all  are  important  in  estimating  the  standard  set  by  the 
scale,  they  are  covered  in  the  tabulation. 

The  64  wage  scales  include  (1)  54  in  which  "Grundlohne, "  or  basic 
wage  rates,  are  given,  and  (2)  10  in  wliicli  the  rates  of  pay  for  weaving 
specified  kinds  of  cloth  are  given.  The  first  group  of  54  appear  in 
Table  8,  and  the  second  group  of  10  appear  in  Table  9.  From  each 
of  these  tables  all  cloths  have  been  excluded  which  do  not  contain 
wool  in  one  form  or  another. 


728 


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!■ 


Of  the  64  wage  scales  shown  in  Tables  8  and  9,  representmg 
about  264  establishments,  Nos.  51,  53,  54,  55,  56,  57,  58,  60,  and  61 
are  groups  of  establishments;  52,  59,  62,  and  63  are  locality  groups, 
showing  rates  for  practically  all  the  establishments  in  the  respective 
neighborhoods;  21  is  the  lowest  rate  scale  which  subcontractors  in 
Aachen  pay  to  their  weavers.  All  other  scales  are  for  individual 
establishments,  from  a  few  of  which  there  are  two  reports,  which  may 
be  recognized  under  a  given  number  with  a  letter  following,  as  4  a  and 
4b,  23a  and  23b,  etc.  In  42  schedules  the  rate  is  per  1,000  picks  of 
filling  yam.  In  16  schedules  the  rate  is  per  cut  or  per  piece  of 
specified  length,  variously  termed  a  "cut"  or  "Band,"  or  "Schmitz." 
In  the  Gera-Greiz-Elsterbcrg  district,  as  shown  in  schedules  60, 
61,  62  and  63,  and  in  the  Glauchau-Meerane-Seiferitz  district, 
Schedule  52  the  unit  of  pay  for  weavers  is  100  Zalilen,  or  100,000 
meters  of  fiUing  yarn  woven  into  the  cloth.  With  the  excep- 
tion of  Schedules  33,  48,  and  52,  in  which  certain  necessarv  data 
were  not  submitted,  all  scales  were  reducible  to  the  1,000-pick  basis 
and  are  so  treated.  The  2-loom  towns  are  in  the  Gera-Greiz- 
Elsterberg,  and  the  Glauchau-Meerane-Seiferitz  districts.  In  general 
it  may  be  assumed  that  rates  appearing  in  the  tables  under  6  pfennigs 
(14.3  mills)  per  1,000  picks  are  2-loom  rates  or  are  for  more  easily  woven 
women's  wear. 

Not  considering  establishments  33.  48,  and  52,  whose  rates  on 
account  of  a  lack  of  data  can  not  be  reduced  to  the  common  1,000-pick 
basis,  the  two  tables  show  that  16  establishments  or  groups  prodiice 
certain  cloths  on  which  they  pay  between  1.62  and  5.81  pfennigs  per 
1,000  picks  as  a  lowest  rate.  Ten  establishments  or  groups  produce 
certain  cloths  on  which  they  pay  between  6  and  8.8  pfennigs  per 
1,000  picks  as  a  lowest  rate;  24  establishments  or  groups  produce 
certain  cloth  on  which  they  pay  between  9  and  10.9  pfennigs  per 
1,000  picks  as  a  lowest  rate;  28  establishments  or  groups  produce 
certain  cloths  on  which  they  pay  between  11  and  12.7  pfennigs  per 
1,000  picks  as  a  lowest  rate;  10  establishments  or  groups  produce 
certain  cloths  on  which  they  pay  between  13  and  14.9  pfennigs  per 
1,000  picks  as  a  lowest  rate;  4  estabhshments  or  groups  produce 
certain  cloths  on  which  they  pay  between  15  and  16.5  pfennigs  per 
1,000  picks  as  a  lowest  rate. 

The  explanation  for  the  low  rates,  from  1.62  to  5.81  pfennigs  is 
that  the  cloths  manufactured  at  such  weaving  rates  are  women's- 
wear  fabrics  of  light  weight,  and  cotton  warp,  or  weft,  and  that  it  is 
2-loom  work  on  fast  looms.  The  usual  rate  on  men's  wear  woolens 
and  worsteds,  with  the  weaver  tending  1  loom,  ranges  from  9  to  13 
pfennigs  per  1,000  picks,  40,000  to  55,000  picks  woven  per  day  be- 
ing a  good  day's  production  for  a  good  weaver.  The  prevailing 
lowest  rates  may  be  shown  further  as  follows  in  Table  10: 


BEPOBT  OF   TABIFF  BOABD   ON  SCHEDULE   K. 

Table  10. 


737 


Kate  per  1,000  picks. 

Nnmber  of 

establisli- 

ments.i 

Schedule  numbers. 

1.62-  6.81  pfennigs 

11 
2 
1 
1 
1 
2 
2 
1 

12 
2 
1 
1 

17 

2 
1 
2 
1 

34.  37.  38.  39.  40.  43.  44.  45b.  60.  61.  62.                 * 

1.62-  8.8  pfennigs 

42.63. 

1.62-12.7  pfennigs 

45a. 

1.62-14.9  pfennigs 

4a. 

CO  -  8.8  pfennigs 

46. 

Co  -10.9  pfennigs 

22,30. 

CO  -12.7  pfennigs 

31. 47. 

CO  -16.5  pfennigs 

27. 

9.0  -10.9  pfennigs 

1.  2.  3.  5.  6  7  8  12  32  55  56  57 

9.0  -12.7  pfennigs 

4b.  64. 

9.0  -14.9  pfennigs 

SO. 

9.0  -16.5  pfennigs 

10. 

1 1.0  -12.7  pfennigs 

9.  11.  13.  14.  16.  17.  18    19   20   21    23a   24   29    53 

11.0  -14.9  pfennigs 

64,  68,  59. 
25,28. 

11.0  -1G.5  pfennigs 

61. 

13.0 -14.9  pfennigs 

15  49 

13.0  -10.5  pfennigs 

23b. 

k 

»  Not  including  thr^e  (Nos.  33,  48,  53)  whose  rates  as  reported  can  not  be  reduced  to  l,00(>-pick  basis. 

Day  rates  were  reported  as  follows: 


Estab- 
lishment 
or  group 
No. 


3 
4b 

6 

8 

19 

24 

25 

29 


30 
30 

46 

50 


Rates  for  time  workers. 


3.25  marks  (77  cents)  to  5  marks  (S1.19)  per  day. 

Day  rate  is  found  in  particular  instances  by  taking  the  average  of  the  weaver's  pieoeding  6 

week  days. 
35  pfennigs  per  hour=  8.3  cents. 
35  pfennigs  per  hour=  8.3  cents. 
35  pfennigs  per  hour=  8.3  cents. 
25  pfennigs  per  hour  for  males=5.95  cents. 
20  pfennigs  per  hour  for  females=  4.76  cents. 

30  pfennigs  per  hour  for  men  for  work  out  of  the  ordinary—  7.14  cents. 
25  pfennigs  per  hour  for  women  for  work  out  of  the  ordinary=5. 95  cents. 
16  marks  ($3.81)  per  week  as  lowest  rate  for  males  over  18  years  old,  and  an  additional  10  per 

cent  increase,  subsequently  added,  making  #4.19  the  minimum. 
12  marks  ($2.86)  to  14.50  marks  ($3.45)  per  week  as  lowest  pay  for  males  16  to  18  years  old. 
8  marks  ($1.90)  to  10  marks  ($2.38)  per  week  as  lowest  pay  for  males  14  to  16  years  old. 
12  marks  ($2.86)  as  lowest  pay  per  week  for  females  over  18  years  old. 
10  marks  ($2.38)  to  11  marks  ($2.62)  as  lowest  pay  per  week  for  females  16  to  18  years  old, 
8  marks  ($1.90)  to  9  marks  (12.14)  as  lowest  pay  for  females  14  to  16  years  old. 
30  pfennigs=  7.14  cents  per  hour  for  males  over  19  years  old. 
25  pfennigs=5.95  cents  per  hour  for  females  over  19  years  old. 
23  pfennigs=5.47  cents  per  hour  for  male-s  up  to  19  years  old. 
18  pfennigs=  4.28  cents  per  hour  for  females  up  to  19  years  old. 
30  pfennigs=  7.1 4  cents  per  hour  for  males;  20  pfennigs  -per  homr  for  females. 
25  pfennigs=5.95  cents  per  hour  for  weavers  over  21  years  old. 
20  pfennigs=4.76  cents  per  hour  for  weavers  up  to  21  years  old. 
15  pfennigs==3.57  cents  per  hour  for  weavers  up  to  18  years  old. 
10  pfeimigs=2.38  cents  per  hour  for  weavers  up  to  16  years  old. 


No  rates  appear  in  Table  8  except  the  lowest  rates  paid  for  the 
goods  specified  under  the  cloth  organization  set  opposite  the  rates, 
and,  ms  far  as  possible,  the  same  elimination  of  rates  rising  above 
the  minimum  on  particular  fabrics  has  been  made  in  Table  9.  It 
will  be  understoocl  that  from  the  rates  shown  in  the  two  tables  the 
pay  of  weavers  increases  according  to  such  changes  in  their  work  as 
are  brought  about  by  using  more  narnesses  or  more  ends  of  warp  or 
yarns  of  different  size  and  breaking  strength,  etc.  Such  increase  in 
the  weaver's  rate  is  from  J  pfennig  (J  mill)  to  3  pfennigs  (7  mills) 
per  unit  of  pay.  In  general  the  rates  shown  in  the  tables,  and  par- 
ticularly in  Table  8,  are  paid  for  cloths  woven  with  simple  weave, 


T38 


MUSirKflkX    \fM     XJUJkMJl  X     IMJAMU/    vVi     oKfXXmJUVjLmi    JEk« 


BEPOET  OP  TABIFF  BOAED  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


with  3  shuttles  or  less,  with  not  over  8  harnesses,  with  from  40  to 
50  picks  per  inch,  with  a  reed  width  of  50  inches  generally,  and  upon 
plam  looms  with  a  speed  of  approximately  70  to  80  picks  per  minute, 
but  in  pajdng  weavers  the  German  manufacturer  has  taken  account 
of  many  more  factors  in  the  weaving  than  the  American  manufac- 
turer, so  that  while  the  rates  shown  in  the  tables  may  appear  very 
low  they  do  not  show  aU  that  the  weaver  gets.  Changes  in  any  one 
or  all  of  the  factors  shown  opposite  each  rate,  or  others  not  shown  in 
the  tables  at  all,  may  mean  an  increase  in  the  weaver's  pay.  Prac- 
tically the  only  factor  that  would  reduce  the  rates  snown  is  an 
increased  speed  of  the  loom,  and  only  a  few  scales  make  that  provi- 
sion.  In  certain  establishments  also  the  weaver  gets  extra  pay  for 
work  collateral  to  weaving,  such  as  helping  to  set  warp  beams  in 
place,^  tyin^-in  warp  ends,  and  he  is  paid  for  loss  of  production  due 
to  waiting  for  repairs  or  materials  or  lor  badly  running  yarns.  While 
Germany  is  practically  a  one-loom  country,  taere  are  districts  such  as 
the  Gera-Greiz-Elsterberg  district  and  the  Glauchau-Meerane-Seifpritz 
and  the  Lambrecht  districts,  where  the  weaver  tends  two  or  more 
looms  and  earns  from  25  per  cent  to  100  per  cent  additional  pay  for 
each  additional  loom  even  at  the  reduced  rate  per  1,000  picks.  For 
operating  *'Wechselstuhlen,"  or  shift  looms  which  permit  the  use  of 
variously  colored  fiUing  threads,  the  weavers  m  the  Gera  district 
receive  a  rate  33  per  cent  higher,  and  for  operating  many  other  kinds 
of  looms  which  are  complicated  or  very  old  or  are  capable  of  weaving 
intricate  patterns  the  rates  as  shown  in  Tables  8  and  0  are  increased. 

The  following  table  shows  other  factors  in  the  make-up  of  cloth 
which  cause  an  mcrease  in  the  rates  of  pay  shown  in  Tables  5  and  9 : 


Weaver's  rate  sbown  in  TahJm  XI  and  m 
increaae  witli— 


An  increase  in  niimbf>r  of  harnesses. 

An  increase  in  number  of  shuttles 

An  increase  in  nurabor  of  warp  ends 

A  change  in  the  number  of  picks  of  filling 

An  increaae  in  the  number  of  colored  threads. 

Tl»  use  of  coarser  yarn. 

The  nse  of  carded  vara  warp 

T'tin  njM  ojf  li|MHyf*lr  fliltfiif  0f*  IIIIcIbI'  WftrD  1L0  til** 

crease  weight  of  cloth 

The  use  of  1-pIy  carded  wool  yam 

The  use  of  2  beams 

A  change  in  the  width  of  the  cloth 

The  ose<rfl-cut  warps 

A  decrease  in  the  speed  of  the  loom 


Nam  her 
of  estab- 
lishments 
orgrotips 
of  estate  2/10  to 


llsh- 
ments. 


Number  of  establishments  or  groups 
which  increaBe  their  rate  per  1,000 
picks  by  specified  amounts. 


25 
33 
24 
17 

12 

TO 

7 

e 

5 

s 

7 
4 
3 


3/10 
pfen- 
nig. 


pfen- 
nig. 


15 
11 

12 
6 
7 
3 
1 


■ 


pffsn- 
nig. 


1 
pfen- 
nig. 


2 
2 
2 

1 
3 
2 
3 


pfien- 
nig. 


2 


2to3 
pfen- 
nigs. 


Nimiber 
of  estal> 
lishmcnta 
or  groups 
in  whjcn 

the 

amount  of 

increase 

in  rate 

varies 
withpaiw 

ticufar 
kinds  of 

oloth.1 


S 
1 

s 
f 


6 

I 


t  Amomit  of  incriiaEO  In  rate  per  unit  not  exceeding  the  amounts  shown  for  other  changes  in  conditions 
ofweavim. 

For  weavinff  pattern  cuts  or  samples  weavers  are  paid  extra  wages 
in  moat  establishments.    Their  pay  for  such  usually  varies  with  mo 


739 


length  of  the  cut  and  consists  in  a  percentage  increase  over  the  rates 
shown  m  Tables  8  and  9,  as  follows: 

Table  12, — For  weaving  patterns. 


Establish-  I 
ment  or 
group 
No. 


46 

6 
6 
7 


13 
15 


17 
18 


70 


23a 
235 
24 


25 

30 

45b 
49 


Rate  of  pay. 


40  pfMmigs  per  hour  equal  9.52  cents. 

Day  rate,  determined  by  averaging  last  4  to  6  pays. 

iJ»ay  rate,  determined  by  averaging  last  4  pays. 

In  ^l  ^!°^  ^ii^^  !°  regular  rates  for  patterns  31  to  50  meters  long. 

?S  Sr  ol^f  oHH^i  1°  '■^S''^'"  ""^^^  1°''  patterns  16  to  30  meters  long. 

9  Jo«^T  *^  added  to  regular  rates  for  patterns  10  to  15  meters  long. 

A  Kfe^f ! f ^"^  iSSSf  "'^"^ ^'  ^'^ ^^^ patterns  10 to  25 m^ers  long. 

P?f  fl^f  i^'^''^^!?'*^  "^"^^  P^  ^'^  V^^^  patterns  up  to  10  meters  loi^ 

Patterns  longer  than  25  meters  ( . )  are  counted  as  2  patterns. 

lU  per  cent  added  to  regular  rates  for  patterns  30  to  40  meters  long. 

^0  per  cent  added  to  regular  rates  for  patterns  20  to  30  meters  l(w. 

30  per  cent  added  to  regular  rates  for  patterns  10  to  20  meters  Ion?. 

60  per  cent  added  to  regular  rates  for  patterns  under  10  meters  long. 

Double  the  rate  for  first  3  meters  of  pattern. 

10  per  cent  added  to  regular  rate  for  a  pattern  40  meters  long. 

20  per  cent  added  to  regular  rate  for  a  pattern  30  meters  long.  ' 

30  per  cent  added  to  regular  rate  for  a  pattern  25  meters  long. 

50  per  cent  added  to  regular  rate  for  a  pattern  20  meters  long 

15  per  cent  added  to  regular  rate  for  a  pattern  over  30  meters  long. 

20  per  cent  added  to  regular  rate  for  a  pattern  over  20  meters  long. 

30  per  cent  added  to  regular  rate  for  a  pattern  over  10  meters  long. 

50  per  cent  added  to  regular  rate  for  a  pattern  under  10  meters  long. 

15  per  cent  added  to  regular  rate  for  a  woolen  pattern  20  meters  long. 

30  per  cent  added  to  regular  rate  for  a  worsted  pattern  20  meters  lo^. 

15  per  cent  added  to  regular  rate  lor  a  woolen  pattern  over  5  meterslong. 

^  EP/  ?i      added  to  regular  rate  for  a  worstedpattem  over  5  meters  long. 

I'artiai  length  over  5  meters  are  paid  for  on  same  basis  as  full  pieces. 

1  pfenmg  equals  $0.00238  more  than  1,000  picks. 

Receive  day  rate  (see  other  table)  if  pattern  is  over  1  meter  long. 

Receive  no  extra  pay  if  pattern  is  under  1  meter  long. 

i5  per  cent  added  to  regular  rate  for  patterns  under  20  meters  long. 

10  pfennigs  equal  $0.0238  per  4  meters  on  patterns  with  from  50  to  86  picks  per  inch. 

?l?  ^"J?^  ^H^^  $0.0476  per  4  meters  on  patterns  with  over  86  picks  per  inch. 

An  additional  10  pfennigs  per  4  meters  for  patterns  with  a  backing. 


For  overtime,  night  work,  and  Sunday  work,  certain  establish- 
ments pay  additional  wages  above  the  rates  shown  m  Tables  8  and 
9,  as  follows: 

Table  13. 


I . 


Establish- 
ment or 
group 
No. 


23a 

34 

29. 

30 

31 
63 


Kind  of  work. 


From  6  p.  m.  to  10  p.  m.,  or 
Sunday. 

After  lOp.m 

(Nlgjitwork '...'. 

•|  Overtime  work 

[Sunday  work [[ 

(Overtime  work 
10  p.  m.  to  6  a.  m.  and  Stm- 
diay  work. 
Overtime    work;    Sunday 
work. 

Overtime  work 

Overtime  and  night  work . . . 


How  paid  for. 


20  por  cent  Increase. 
40  per  cent  Increase. 


8 Males  30  pfennig  per  hour  equals  $0,714. 
Females  25  pfeiung  per  hour  equals  $0.06%. 


25perccntincrcase\o„ «•    „,         j, 

50  per  cent  Increase/ ^^™®  ^°^  "^^^^  and  females. 

35  pfennig  eqnals  $0.0833  per  hour  for  males  over  19  years  old 

33  per  cent  Increase  for  males. 
3  marks  per  day  equals  $0,714. 


The  German  weaver  is  subject  to  fines  as  high  as  3  marks  (71.4 
cents)  in  particular  instances,  and  in  one  establishment  is  said  to  be 
required  to  take  the  imperfect  cloth.  Tardiness  and  imperfect 
picks  in  the  cloth  are  the  usual  causes  for  fines.     Establishment  9 


740 


BEPOKT  OF  TAKITP  BOAED  02^  SCHEDXTLE  K. 


EEPORT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


fines  weavers  20  pfennigs  (5  cents)  for  15  minutes'  tardiness  and 
gives  the  fine  to  the  best  general  worker  in  the  estabhshment.  For 
more  than  8  filling  or  weft  thread  breaks,  establishment  49  fines 
weavers  10  pfennigs  (2.38  cents)  per  break,  and  they  forfeit  their 
premium  if  a  filling  break  goes  over  half  the  width  of  a  cloth  that  is 
Deing  woven  on  a  loom  equipped  with  a  pick  clock.  Other  deduc- 
tions are  made  as  foUows  in  certain  establishments: 


Schedule 
No. 

Why  made. 

Amount  deducted. 

20 

On  looms  rmming— 

70  to  79  picks  per  minute 

6  per  cent  less  than  rate. 

80  to  89 picks  per  minute  

12  per  cent  lass  than  rate. 

90  to  100  picks  per  minute 

18  per  cent  less  than  rate. 

1  pfennig  per  1,000  picks  less. 

1  pfennig  per  1,000  picks  less, 
li  pfennig  per  1,000  picks  less. 

2  pfennig  per  1,000  picks  less. 

fh  pfennig  per  1,000  picks,  males. 
\2  pfennig  per  1,000  picks,  females. 

21 

On  looms  running— 

68  to  SO  picks  per  minute 

80  to  90  picks  p<^r  minute 

90  to  100  picks  per  mluute 

23a 

100  to  120  picks  per  minute 

On  looms  ranning  90  picks  per  minute 

On  the  Other  hand  the  weaver  is  protected  against  loss  of  produc- 
tion on  account  of  repairs,  or  on  account  of  waiting  for  materials,  or 
badly  running  warp  or  fiUing  yams,  either  by  giving  him  work  on  an- 
other loom,  or  by  putting  him  on  a  time  rate  determined  by  averag- 
ing his  three  to  six  preceeding  weekly  pays,  as  foUows: 


Table  14. 


Establish- 
ment or 
group  No. 


Reasons  for  change  or  in- 
crease of  rates  shown  in 
Tables  8  and  9. 


4b. 


6.. 
12. 


18  and  20. 

28 

31 


61. 


00,  61,   62, 

and  63. 
63 


Waiting  for  materials. 
Imperfect  yarns 

Waiting  for  materials . 
Imperfect  materials. . 

Waiting  for  materials . 

...do 

Imperfect  yams 

Waiting  for  materials. 


Change  of  work 

Waiting  for  materials,  pat- 
tern weaving. 
Imperfect  warps 


Waiting  for  materials. 

Waiting  for  repairs. . . 
Waiting  for  materials. 


Waiting  for  material 

Waiting  for  materials 

Weaving  on  Wechselloom. 


Change  in  rate  or  manner  of  pay  of  weavers  when  repairs,  'or 
waits,  or  badly  running  materials  make  regular  rates  inoper- 
ative. 


25  pfennip  (6  cents)  per  hour  after  fifth  hour. 
Day  rate,  determined  by  averaging  the  weaver's  7  previous 
pays- 

IDay  rate,  determined  by  averaging  the  weaver's  3  previous 
pays,  and  ranging  from  3.25  marlcs  (77  cents)  to  5  marks 
(11.19)  per  day. 
15  pfennigs  (4  cents)  per  loom  and  per  hour  after  the  sixth 

hour. 
I  the  day  rate  (average  pay  for  last  6  weeks)  after  the  sixth 

hour. 
An  average  pay  on  corresponding  class  of  goods. 
Day  rate,  from  3.50  marlcs  (83  cents)  to  4  marks  (95  cents)  per 

day. 
40  pfennigs  (10  cents)  per  hour  or  may  work  on  another  loom. 
15  pfemxigs  per  hour  (3.6  cents). 

Average  pay  for  last  3  months.  New  weaver  would  receive 
at  least  3  marks  (71  cents)  per  day. 

35  pfennigs  (8  cents)  per  hour  if  over  21  years  old;  30  pfen- 
nigs (7  cents)  per  hour  if  under  21  years  old. 

Day  rate  2.t50  marks  (02  cents)  per  day,  after  second  hour. 

Must  begin  work  on  another  loom  or  gets  at  rate  of  2.00  marks 
(02  cents)  per  day.  When  defective  material  such  as 
warps,  weft,  or  harnesses  have  to  be  made  ready,  the 
weaver  goes  on  an  average  wage  rate  of  last  6  pays. 

After  4  hours  must  be  provided  with  other  weaving  work,  if 
possible,  that  is  equally  remunerative,  or  be  given  other 
kind  of  work  at  regular  pay  for  that  work. 

10  pfennigs  (2  cents)  per  loom  per  hour  after  fifth  hour. 

33  per  cent  added  for  male  weavers. 


As  elsewhere  stated  the  Gera-Greiz  wage  scales  were  reduced  to  a 
1,000  pick  basis  for  purposes  of  comparison  in  Tables  8  and  9. 
This  was  done,  however,  on  the  arbitrary  basis  of  assuming  the  mini- 
mum width  in  the  reed  to  which  a  rate  applied.    To  make  this  matter 


-) 


741 


clear  and  to  enable  anyone  to  figure  out  for  himself  the  weaver's  rate 
on  any  given  cloth  in  the  Gera  district,  a  translation  of  this  exceedingly 
elaborate  and  complicated  scale  is  here  presented.  This  wage  scale 
is  based  upon  a  100,000  meters  of  weft  yarn  woven  into  cloth  on 
the  loom.  Of  course,  the  width  of  the  cloth  in  the  reed  must  be 
known  before  any  estimate  can  be  made  of  how  many  picks  a  100,000 
meters  of  yam  would  yield.  The  scale  provides  for  different  rates, 
for  different  widths  on  the  reed,  but  in  Tables  8  and  9  it  was  re- 
duced to  1,000  picks  at  the  breaking  point  of  rates.  That  is  to  say, 
if  the  rate  was  for  a  reed  space  of  55  inches  or  over,  the  1,000  pick  rate 
was  calculated  at  55  reecl  space:  for  the  reason  that  Tables  8  and  9 
are  for  the  purpose  of  comparing  basic  rates,  and  basic  rates  are  either 
minimum  rates  or  are  on  a  specific  cloth  taken  as  a  standard  of  pay. 
The  following  is  a  translation  of  the  scale  itself,  and  in  it  the  money 
payments  have  been  retained  in  marks  and  pfennigs,  or  rather,  marks 
and  decimals  of  a  mark  ($0,238),  for  lack  of  time  to  prepare  it  in 
any  other  form: 

Table  15. — Minimum  wage  schedule  for  woolen  raw  goodsinforc^  for  mills  of  the  United 
Sachsische-Thuringischer  weaving  mills  from  August  6,  1911. 


Local  Group  I  (Gera). 


Posi- 
tion 
No. 


LOCAL  GROUPS  I  AND  H. 

1.  Kaschmier: 

Less  than  300  ends  to  5i  inches  up  to  55  Inches 

reed  space 

Less  than  300  ends  to  5J  inches  above  55  inches 

reed  space 

300-340  ends  to  b\  inches  up  to  55  inches  reed 

space 

300-340  ends  to  SJ  inches  above  55  inches  reed 

space 

More  than  340  ends  to  SJ  inches  up  to  55  inches 

reed  space 

More  than  340  ends  to  6J  inches  above  55  inches 

reed  space 


Goods  of 

more  than 

39J  inches 

reed  space. 


Single. 


LOCAL  GROUP  HI. 

I.  Kaschmier: 

Kaschmier,  long 

Long,  rips,  2  ends  per  dent 

2a.  Tibet  (worsted  merino)  4-harness  tw^ili: 

Less  than  360  ends  to  5i  inches  up  to  55  inches 

reed  space 

Less  than  360  ends  to  5i  inches  above  55  inches 

reed  space 

360  ends  and  more  to  5J  inches  up  to  55  inches 

reed  space 

360  ends  and  more  to  5J  inches  above  65  inches 

reed  space 

7b.  Worsted,  croise  and  foules: 

Inclusive,  440  ends  to  5J  inches  up  to  51  inches 

reed  space 

Inclusive,  440  ends  to  5J  inches  above  51  inches 

reed  space 

More  than  440  ends  to  5J  inches  up  to  51  inches 

reed  sx>aoe 

More  than  440  ends  to  5J  inches  above  51  inches 

reed  space 

2c.  Worsted,  twill,  5  and  6  harness: 

Inclusive,  440  ends  to  5^  inches 

More  than  440  ends  to  5J  inches 


9 
10 
11 
12 

13 

14 

15 

16 

17 
18 


Marks. 
2.05 

2.00 

2.15 

2.10 

2.25 

2.20 


2.00 
2.30 


2.20 
2.10 
2.45 
2.30 

2.55 

2.40 

2.75 

2.60 

2.75 
2.85 


Twist.  Single, 


Goods  of 

more  than 

35J  inches 

up  to  39  J 

Inches 

reed  space. 


Goods  of  35§ 
inches  and 

less 
reed  space. 


Marks. 
L95 

LOO 

2.05 

2.00 

2.15 

2.10 


2.00 
2.30 


2.10 
2.05 
2.30 
2.20 

2.40 

2.25 

2.65 

2.50 

2.65 
2.75 


Marks. 
2.20 


Twist 


Marks. 
2.10 


2.30 


2.45 


2.15 
2.50 


2.35 


2.65 


2.75 


2.95 


2.95 
3.05  1 


2.20 


2.30 


2.15 
2.50 


2.25 


Single. 


Marks 
2.25 


2.35 


2.50 


2.20 
2.55 


Twist. 


Marks. 
2.15 


2.25 
2.35 


2.20 
2.55 


2.45        2.30 


2.50      2.70 


2.60 


2.85 


2.85 
2.95 


2.80 


3.05 


2.55 


2.65 


2.90 


32080°— H.  Doc.  342,  62-2,  vol  2 ^9 


3.15  1      3.05 


742 


BBPOHT  OP  TABIFF  BOABD  OHf  SCHBDUUB  K. 


KEPOBT  OF   TAKIFF  BOAED   ON  SCHEDULE   K. 


743 


Table  Id.— Minimum  wage  sdudulejfor  woolen  raw  goods  in  force /or  mills  of  the  United 
SacfmKhe-Thuringtm:her  wmving  milh/rmn  Au^n^t  6,  1911 — Continued. 


Local  Group  I  (Gera). 

Goods  of 

Goods  of 

more  than 

Goods  of  35| 

POdl- 

morettum 

33^  inches 

tiu^hesand 

tlon 

39|  Inches 

np  to  39} 

less 

No. 

reeii  spaat. 

inches 

reed. 

space. 

reedspace. 

Singl©.  Twist. 

Single. 

Twist. 

Single. 

Twist. 

LOCAL  GKOUP  in~continue<J. 

2<L  Cheviot;,  twiil,  4-6  hamefis: 

Marks. 

AforU. 

Aforfc*. 

Marks. 

Mtrir. 

Mmis. 

Inciualire,  320  ends  to  5}  iiieli«8  feed  spam 

19 

2.70 

2.50 

2.90 

2.70 

aoo 

2.75 

Miwetli«a320a3dsto3iu)daeaieed  npace 

20 

2.90 

2:70 

3wl5 

2.90 

3.20 

3.00 

20.  Worsted,  warp  twill,  4  haraeas  (3  up,  1  down): 

InclnsiTi^  440  ends  to  5|  indies  leed  space.. 

31 

2.85 

S.7S 

3.05 

2.95 

3.15 

3.05 

More  than  440  ends  to  5^  inches  reed  space 

22 

3.00 

2.  SO 

3.25 

3.10 

X30 

3.20 

Z,  Kaschnuer,  serpe,  3-hames9  weave: 

Inclusive,  400  ends  to  5  inches  reed  space..... 
Inclusive,  4S0  ends  to  3  inches  reed  space 

23 

3.20 

3.10 

3.45 

3.35 

3.50 

3.40 

U 

S.30 

3.20 

3.55 

3.45 

3.65 

3.^ 

More  than  480  aad  op  to  500  eud3  to  o^  inches 

reed  space 

26 

ass 

3.8a 

3.45 

3.73 

3.80 
4-13 

3.70 
4.03 

3.00 
4.23 

3.80 

600  ends  and  more  to  si  inches  reedspace 

4.  Satin,  filling  Atlas  (all  wool): 

4.15 

Up  to  47  J  inches  reed  space 

27 

2.35 

2.25 

2.55 

2.45 

2.60 

2.50 

Above  47i  inches  reed  space 

23 

2.23 

2.15 

6.  Warp,  Atlas  and  whipcord  for  cain  looms: 

Tj  p  to  480  ends  to  54  inches  rccd  spaca 

Up  to  540  ends  to  3|  Inches  reed  space 

20 

3.15 

2.95 

3,40 

3.20 

3.45 

3.25 

30 

3.35 

3.15 

3.60 

3.40 

3.70 

3.45 

More  than  540  ends  and  less  ttum  600ends  to  51 

inches  reed  space. 

31 
32 

3.  CO 
3.  to 

3.35 
3.70 

3.85 
4.20 

3.60 
4.00 

3.95 
4.30 

3  70 

600  enda  and  more  to  5^  inches  reed  space. 

4.05 

6a.  Mnsselin: 

Up  to  280  ends  inclusive  to  5}  inches  reed  spam. 

33 

2.55 

2.55 

2.75 

2.75 

2.80 

2.80 

Aljove  2sO  ends  up  to  360 ends  to  3)  inctoes  reed 

spaoa 

34 

2.75 

2.05 

2.95 

2.85 

3.05 

2.90 

Atovb  3^fflids  op  to  400 ends  to  ^  iacb«3  reed 

space ....................... . 

36 
37 
38 

2.05 
3.50 

2.85 
3.25 

3.20 
3. 75 

2.95 

3.05 
3,50 
2.95 

3.25 
3.85 
3.05 

3-15 

Above  400  ends  to  5§  inches 

3.«]0 

66.  Narrow  Elsassor  print,  muaselins 

With  inside  selvage  (double  pieces) 

3.05 

2.00 

2.00 

LOCAL  Gmwrs  n  A3tD  m. 

7a.  Voile,  musselin: 

Up  to  yam  No.  22  (English  worsted  ho.) 

Above  yam  No.  22  ^Blnglish  worsted  No.) 

Above  vam  No.  48  (EngHah  worsted  No.) 

39 

3.% 

3.95 

4.25 

4.25 

4.35 

4.35 

40 

3.30 

3.10 

3.55 

3.35 

3.6.5 

3.40 

41 

3.95 

4.23 

4.35 

76.  Voile,  jacquards: 

Up  to  jwm  No.  22  (Enj»lish  worsted  No.) 

Above  yam  No.  2i  (Enirlish  worsted  No.) 

AboTO  yaro  No.  48  (English  Worsted  No.), 

42 

6.30 

5.30 

5.70 

5.70 

5.85 

5.85 

43 

4.65 

4.45 

6.00 

4.M> 

5.10 

4.90 

single  warp 

41 

5.05 

5.45 

1.55 

7e.  Btani.nes: 

Up  to  yam  No.  9  ( English  worsted  No.) 

Above  vam  No.  9  (English  worsted  No.)  up  to 

45 

7.05 

G.90 

8.55 

7.40 

8.75 

7.60 

13|  (English  worsted  No.) 

4f. 

6.90 

5.85 

7. 40 

G.30 

7.00 

6.45 

8.  Coating  lor  confection  (Tibet  with  lining),  harness. 

47 

3.30 

3.10 

3.55 

3.35 

3.65 

3.40 

9.  Corkscrew  for  conlectton: 

Up  to  500  ends  to  5J  inches  reed  space 

48 

3.75 

3.55 

4.05 

3.80 

4.15 

3.90 

Up  to  SCO  ends  to  5-1  inches  reed  space 

AboT©  5«0  op  to  640  ends  to  Si  indies  reed  s|)ac6. 

49 

3.85 

3.55 

4.15 

3.80 

4.25 

3.90 

50 

3.95 

3.(i5 

4.25 

3.96 

4.35 

4.00 

10.  Armures,  with  more  than  109  picks  per  Inch  (fill- 

ing teed) 

51 

2.80 

1.70 

3.00 

2-90 

3.10 

2.95 

11.  Head-motion  looms  (with  exception  of  thoa©  arti- 

cles nnder  No.  15): 

Less  than  400  ends  to  54  inches 

m 

3.20 

3.20 

3. 45 

3.45 

3.50 

3.50 

With  chenot  yam  warp 

m 

3.30 

ass 

3.65 

400  ends  and  less  than  480ends  to  5i  inches  reed 

space 

M 
55 

3.S5 
3.30 

3.25 

3.75 

3.30 

3.70 
3.85 

3.60 

With  crheviot  yarn  warp 

4S0  ends  and  less  than  €00ends  to  5^  iuchm  reed 

spaoo. ......•.,.,.,.......,... 

56 

3.55 

3.45 

3.80 

3.70 

3.90 

3.80 

600  ends  and  less  than  720eQds  to  5^  inclies  reed 

si>ace 

57 

3.85 

3.66 

4.13 

3.95 

4.25 

4.00 

720  ends  and  inclusive  800  andi  to  5^  inches 

reed  space 

58 

4.25 

3.95 

4-55 

4. 25 

4.70 

4.35 

Above  800 ends  to  3i iocteieed  space 

59 

4.75 

4.45 

&10 

4.80 

&25 

4.90 

Tabli:  15. — Minimum  wage  schedule  for  woolen  raw  goods  in/orcefor  mills  of  the  United 
Sadisische-Thuringischer  weaving  mills  from  August  6,  1911 — Continued. 


LOCAL  GROUP  I. 

Por  13  harness  and  more,  20  pfennig  additional  per 
100.350  yard  fiUiug.......--.: ^ 

12.  Flula  jacquard  with  less  tiian  480  ends  per  5^ 

inches  reed  space 

With  cheviot  yarn  warp 

480  ends  and  less  than  560  ends  to  i^  inches  reed 

space 

With  cheviot  yarn  warp '..'..'...... 

5G0  ends  and  more  to  5}  inches  reed  space 

13.  Jacquard  im  worsted  with  silk  or  chappe  imita- 

tion up  to  480  ends  to  5^  inches  reed  space 

Above  480  ends  to  3|  inches  reed  space -. 

14a.  Jacquard  1  111  worsted  or  cotton  with  mohair, 

camel  hair,  luster  or  weft  (with  exception  of 

so-called  staple  half- wool  luster): 

Light  weave 

Musselin  ground  with  400  ends  "to  5*  "inches" 

reed  space  inclusive 

Dauble  motion,  1  pick 

A  bo  ve  400  ends  to  5J  inches  reed  space  [  - .  -  - 
Double  motion,  1  pick 


I 


LOCAL  GEO  UP  m. 

15a.  All  mohair,  camel  hair,  luster,  or  weft,  bead  mo- 
tion looms: 

Up  to  320  ends  to  5J  inches  reed  space 

More  than  320  ends  up  to  400  ends  to  5J  inches 
reed  space 

Double  motion,  1  pick ..[[ 

Above  400 ends  to  5i  inches  reed  space .' .'.'. 

Double  motion,  1  pick 


LOCAL  GROUP  XL 

6.  All  mohair,  camel  hair,  luster,orweft  on  jacquard: 
Up  to  320  ends,  inclusive,  to5J  inches  ra^dspace 
Up  to  400ends,  inclusive,  to5|laclie8reed£T>ace 

Double  motion,  1  pick 

Above  400  ends  to  5 J  inches  reod  space  1 ! ! 

Double  motion,  1  pick 

17a.  Indian  worsted— Yarn  slialos  with  warn  fringes 
-  _.  _.  (^  it  h  filling  border)  above  49i  inches  reed  space 
170.  Indian  cheviot  shales  with  warp  fringes  (with 

filling  border) 

17c.  Indian  raw— Shales ' 


\ 


LOCAL  GROUPS  II  AlfD  lU. 

18.  Ripse  With  double  motion,  1  pick: 

18a.  With  single  filling-.--. 

186.  With  double  and  triple  spooled  fuitnc—" 
22 J  ( English  worsted  No. ). . 

22H8  (English  worsted  No. )..-'] 

18-13J  (English  worsted  No.)  -  -  - 

iQ  -r    ,     .    ^eJowl3H English  worsted  No.) 

iw.  Ladies'  cioth  (worsted  warp  with  woolen  filling) 

Kaschmier  weave 

A  tlas  less  than  4S0  ends  to  5*  inches  reed  ^wice . '. 
Atlas  480  ends  and  more  than  500  ends  to  54 
inches  reed  space 


Local  Group  I  (Gera). 


Posi- 
tion 
No. 


Goods  of 
more  than 
3Si  inches 
reed  space. 


CO 

61 

62 

63 
64 
65 

66 
07 


C8 

69 
70 
71 

72 


73 

74 
75 

75 
77 


78 
79 
80 
81 
82 

83 

84 
85 


86 

87 
88 
89 
90 

91 
92 

93 


Single. 


Goods  of 

more  than 

35i  inches 

up  to  39i 

mches 

reed  space. 


Twist.  Single.  Twist.  Single 


Goods  of  33J 
inches  and 

less 
reed  spoce. 


Marks. 


3.70 
3.80 

3.95 
4.05 
4.20 

4.00 
4-15 


4.40 

4.95 
6.50 
5.25 
6.95 


Marks. 


3.90 

4.55 
6.25 
4.95 

6.50 


1.95 

2-20 

2.20 


5.10 


3.00 
3.55 

3.75 


3.60 


3.85 
*4.'i6' 

4.00 

4.15 

4.40 

4.95 
6.50 
5  25 

6.05 


Marks. 


Marks 


3.90 

4.55 
6.25 
4.95 
6.50 


4.95 
6.20 
7.05 
5.45 
7.30 

1.90 

2.10 
2.45 


4-85 

5.75 
6.30 
7.40 
9.05 

2.80 

3.30 

3.55 


4.00 
4.10 

4.25 
4  35 
4.30 

4.30 
4.45 


4.75 

6.30 
7.00 
5.65 
7.45 


3-85 


4.23 

4.90 
6.70 
5.30 

7.00 


4.15 

4.40 

4.30 
4.45 

4.75 

5.30 
7-00 
5.65 
7.45 


Twist. 


Mariit.  Metrkf. 


4.20 

4.90 
6.70 
5.30 

7.00 


5.  .30 
6.60 
7.60 
5.85 

7.83 


4.05 
4.20 

4.35 
4.45 
4.60 

4  40 
4.55 


4.85 

5.45 
7.15 
5.75 
7.63 


4.30 

5.00 
6.85 
5.45 
7.15 


5.50 


3.25 

3.80 

4.05 


5.20 

6.20 
6.  75 
7.95 
9.75 

3.00 
3.55 

3.80 


5.60 


3.30 
3.90 

4.15 


3.95 


4.25 

'4.56 

4.40 
4.55 

4.85 

5.45 
7.15 
5.75 
7.65 


4.30 

5.00 
6.85 
5.45 
7.15 


5.45 
S.'O 
7.75 
6^00 
8.05 


5.35 

6.30 
6.95 
8.15 
9.95 


10 
65 


3.90 


!kl 


1*1 


744 


KEPORT  OP  TAEIFF  BOAED  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


BEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON"  SCHEDULE  K. 


745 


I 


Table  15. —  Mnimum  wa^e  schedule  for  woolen  raw  goods  in  force  for  milU  of  the  United 
Sachsische-Thuringwcher  weamng  mills  from  August  6,  1911 — (IWtinued. 


LOCAL  GBOUPS  I  AND  H. 

1,  Kaschmier: 

Less  than  300  ends  to  5i  inches  up  to  55  inches 

reed  space 

Less  than  300  ends  to  5^  inches  above  55  inches 

reed  space 

300-340  ends  to  6|  inches  up  to  55  incheo  reed 

space 

300-^40  ends  to  5^  inches  above  55  inches  reed 

space  — 

More  than  340  ends  to  5^  inches  up  to  55  inches 

reed  space 

More  than  340  ends  to  M  inches  above  55  inches 

reed  space 


LOCAL  OROtJP  m. 

1.  Kaschmier: 

Kaschmier,  long 

Long,  rips,  2  ends  per  dent 

2b.  Tibet  (worsted  merino),  4-hames8  twill: 

Less  than  300  ends  to  5|  inches,  up  to  55  inches 

reed  space 

Less  than  360  ends  to  5$  inches,  above  55  inches 

reed  space 

360  ends  and  more  to  5)  inches,  up  to  55  inches 

reed  space 

360  ends  and  more  to  5)  inches,  above  55  inches 

reed  space 

3fr.  Worsted,  croise  and  foules: 

Inclusive,  440  ends  to  5i  Inches,  up  to  51  inches 

reed  space 

Inclusive,  440  ends  to  5i  inches,  above  51  inches 

reed  space 

More  than  440  ends  to  5^  inches,  up  to  51  inches 

reed  space 

More  than  440  ends  to  5i  inches,  above  51  inches 

reed  space 

ae.  Worsted,  twill,  5  and  6  harness: 

Inclusive,  440  ends  to  6i  inches 

More  than  440  ends  to  5^  inches 

2i.  Cheviot,  twill,  4-0  harness: 

Inclusive  320  ends  to  6i  inches  reed  space 

More  than  320  ends  to  5^  inches  reed  space 

2e.  Worsted,  warp  twill,  4-hamess  (3  up,  1  down): 

Inclusive,  440  ends  to  6^  inches  reed  space 

More  than  440  ends  to  Sj  inches  reed  space 

3.  Kaschmier,  serge,  3-hames8  weave: 

Inclusive,  4<X)  ends  to  5k  inches  reed  space 

Inclusive,  480  ends  to  6|  inches  reed  space 

More  than  4S0  and  up  to  590  ends  to  5|  inches 

reed  space 

COO  ends  and  more  to  5*  inches  reed  space 

4.  Satin  filling  atlas  (all  wool): 

Up  to  47i  inches  reed  space 

Above  47i  inches  reed  space 

fi.  Warp,  atlas  and  whipcord  for  cam  looms: 

Up  to  480  ends  to  54  inches  reed  .space 

Up  to  540  ends  to  5i  inches  reed  space 

More  than  540  ends  and  less  than  600  ends  to  6J 

inches  reed  space 

600  ends  and  more  to  6i  inches  reed  space 

6a.  Musselin: 

Up  to  280  ends  inclusive  to  5 J  inches  reed  space. 
Above  280  ends  up  to  SCO  ends  to  5 J  inches  reed 

space 

Above  360  ends  up  to  400  ends  to  5§  inches  reed 

space 

Above  400  ends  to  5|  inches 

(Sb.  Narrow  Elsasser  print,  mussclins 

^^^With  inside  selvage  (double  pieces) 


Local  Group  II  (Oreif). 


Posi- 
tion 
No. 


0 
10 
11 
12 

13 

14 

15 

16 

17 
18 

19 
20 

21 
22 

23 
24 

25 
26 

27 
28 

29 
30 

31 
32 

33 

34 

35 
36 
37 
38 


Goods  of 
more  than 
39i  inches 
reed  space. 


Sinti^e. 


Marks. 
2.05 

2-00 

2.15 

2.10 

2.20 


2.00 
2.30 


2.10 
2.10 
2.30 
2.25 

2.55 

2.65 

2.50 

2.65 
2.75 

2.60 
2.80 

2.85 
3.00 

3.20 
3.30 

3.45 
3.75 

J**  oO 

2.25 

3.10 
3.25 

3.55 
3.90 

2.55 

2.75 

2.95 
3.50 


2.00 


Twist. 


Marks. 
1.95 

1.90 

2.05 

2.00 

2.15 

2.10 


2.00 
2.30 


2.05 
2.05 
2.20 
2.20 

2.40 

2. 25 

2.55 

2.40 

2.55 
2.65 

2.40 
2.00 

2.75 
2.90 

3.10 
3.20 

3.35 
3.65 

2.25 
2.15 

2.90 
3.05 

3.30 
3.70 

2.55 

2.65 

2.85 
3.25 


2.00 


Goods  of 
moro  than 
35J  inches 

up  to  39i 

inches 
reed  space. 


Single. 


Marks. 
2.20 


2.30 


2.45 


2.15 
2.50 


A^«   JS'V 


2.50 


2.75 


2.85 


2.85 
2.95 

2.80 
3.00 

3.05 
3.25 

3.45 
3.55 

3.70 
4.05 

2.55 


3.35 
3.50 

3.80 
4.20 

2.75 

2.95 

3.20 
3.75 
2.75 


Twist. 


Marks, 
2.10 


2.20 


2.30 


2.  ir, 

2.  .50 


2.20 


2.35 


2.60 


2.75 


2.75 
2.85 

2.60 
2.  SO 

2.95 
3.10 

3.36 
3.45 

3.60 
3.95 

2.45 


3.10 
3.30 

3.55 
4.00 

2.75 

2.85 

3.05 
3.50 
2.75 


Goods  Of  35^ 
Inches  and 

less 
reed  space. 


Single. 


Marks. 
2.25 


2.35 


2.  .50 


2.20 
2.55 


2.30 


2.65 


2.80 


2.90 


2.90 
3.05 

2.85 
3.10 

3.15 
3.30 

3.50 
3.65 

3.80 
4.15 

2.60 


3.40 
3.60 

3.90 
4.30 

2.80 

3.05 

3.25 
3.85 
2.75 


X  WlSlra 


Marls. 
2.15 


2.25 


2.40 


2.20 
2.55 


2.25 


2.45 


2.65 


2.80 


.2.80 
2.90 

2.65 
2.85 

3.05 
3.20 

3.40 
3.50 

3.70 
4.00 

2.50 


3.20 
3.35 

3.65 

4.05 

2.80 

2.90 

3.15 
3.60 
2.75 


Table  15. — Minimum  wage  schedule  for  woolen  raw  goods  in  force  for  mills  of  the  United 
SacJisische-Thuringischer  weaving  mills  from  August  6,  15iJf— Continued. 


LOCAL  OEOUPS  H  AND  HI. 

Plauensche  mussel  ins: 

UptoSl  inches  reed  space 

Above  61  inches  up  to  63  inches  reed  space  . . . 

More  than  63  inches  reed  space 

Cc.  Japan  mnsselins: 

32^  inches  to  37  inches  reed  space ' 

With  inside  selvage  (double  pieces) 

7a.  Voile,  musselin:  -^^ 

Up  to  yam  No.  22  (English  worsted  No.).. . . . 

Above  yam  No.  22  (English  worsted  No.) 

Above  yam  No.  48  (English  worsted  No.) 

76.  Voile,  Jacquards: 

Up  to  yarn  No.  22  (English  worsted  No.) 

Above  yam  No.  22  (EuglLsh  worsted  No.) 

Above  yam  No. 48  (English  worsted  No.),sliigle 

warp 

7c.  Etamines: 

Up  to  yam  No,  9  (English  worsted  No.) 

Above  yarn  No.  9  (English  worsted  No.)  up  to 
13i  (English  worsted  No.) 

8.  Coating  for  confection  (Tibet  with  lining),  harness 

9.  Corkscrew  for  confection: 

Up  to  500  ends  to  5i  inches  reed  space 

Up  to  560  ends  to  5|  inches  reed  space 

Af)ove  560  up  to  640  ends  to  5i  inches  reed  space. 

10.  Armures,  with  more  than  109  picks  per  inch  (fill- 

ing faced) 

11.  Head-motion  looms  (with  exception  of  those  arti- 

cles under  No.  15): 

Less  than  400  ends  to  5  J  inches 

With  cheviot  yam  warp 

400  ends  and  less  than  480  ends  to  5|  inches  reed 

space 

With  cheviot  yam  warp 

480  ends  and  less  than  600  ends  to  6^  inches  reed 

space 

600  ends  and  less  than  720  ends  to  5i  inches  reed 

space 

720  ends  and  inclusive  SOOends  to  5J  inches  reed 

space 

At)ove  800  ends  to  5 J  inches  reed  space 


LOCAL  GROtTP  I. 

12.  Plato  jacquard  with  less  than  480  ends  per  5J 

inches  reed  space 

With  cheviot  yam  warp 

480  ends  and  less  than  560  ends  to  5^  mches  reed 

space 

With  cheviot  yam  warp 

560  ends  and  more  to  5  J  inches  reed  space 

13.  Jacquard  1  and  1  worsted  with  silk  or  chappe  imi- 

tation up  to  480  ends  to  5J  inches  reed  space. . 

Above  480  ends  to  5 J  inches  reed  space 

14a.  Jacquard  1  and  1  worsted  or  cotton  with  mohair, 
camel  hair,  luster,  or  weft  (with  exception 
of  so-called  staple  half- wool  luster): 

Light  weave 

Musselin  ground  with  400  ends  to  5i  mches  reed 
space  inclusive 

Double  motion,  1  pick 

Above  400 ends  to  5*  inches  reed  space 

Double  motion,  1  pick 


Local  Group  II  (Greiz). 


Posi- 
tion 
No. 


39 
40 
41 

42 
43 

44 
45 
46 

47 
48 

49 

50 

51 
52 

53 
54 
55 

56 


57 
58 

59 
60 

61 

62 

63 
64 


65 
66 

67 
68 
69 

70 
71 


72 

73 

74 
75 
76 


Goods  of 
more  than 
39i  inches 
reed  space. 


Goods  of 
more  than 
35J  inches 

up  to  39| 

inches 
reed  space. 


Single.  Twist.  Single. 


Marks. 
2.00 
1.90 
1.80 


2.00 

3.85 
3.00 
3.95 

5.20 
4.35 

5.05 

6.95 

5.90 
3.20 

3.65 
3.75 
3.95 

2.80 


3.20 
3.30 

3.35 
3.50 

3.55 

3.85 

4.25 
4.75 


3.70 
3.80 

3.95 
4.05 
4.20 

4.00 
4.15 


4.30 

4.70 
6.50 
5.15 
6.95 


Marks. 
2.00 
1.90 
1.80 


2.00 

3.85 
3.00 


5.20 
4.35 


6.90 

5.85 
3.00 

3.45 
3.45 
3.55 

2.70 


3.20 
3.25 


3.45 

3.65 

3.95 
4.45 


3.60 


3.85 

"4."i6 

4.00 
4.15 

4.30 

4.70 
6.50 
5.15 
6.95 


Marks 
2.15 


Twist, 


Goods  of  35 J 
inches  and 

less 
reed  space. 


2.30 


4.15 
3.25 
4.25 

5.60 
4.70 

5.45 

7.45 

6.35 
3.45 

3.95 
4.05 
4.25 

3.00 

3.45 
3.55 

3.60 
3.75 

3.80 

4.15 

4.55 
5.10 


4.00 
4.10 

4.25 
4.35 
4.50 

4.30 
4.45 


4.60 

5.05 
7.00 
5.55 
7.45 


Marks. 
2.15 


Single. 


Twist. 


Marks. 
2.20 


2.30 


4.15 
3.25 


5.60 
4.70 


7.40 

6.30 
3.25 

3.70 
3.70 
3.80 

2.90 


3.45 
3.50 


4.25 
3.30 
4.35 

5.70 
4.80 

5.55 

7.65 

6.50 
3.50 

4.00 
4.15 
4.35 

3.10 


3.50 
3.65 

3.70 
3.85 


Marks. 
2.20 


3.70 

3.90 

3.95 

4.25 

4.25 
4.80 

4.70 
5.25 

3.85 

4.05 
4.20 

4.15 

"i-io" 

4.35 
4.45 
4.60 

4.30 
4.45 

4.40 
4.55 

4.60 

4.75 

5.05 
7.00 
5.55 
7.45 

5.15 
7.15 
5.65 
7.65 

4.25 
3.30 


5.70 
4.80 


7.60 

6.45 
3.30 

3.80 
3.80 
3.90 

2.95 


3.50 
3.60 


3.80 

4.00 

135 
4.90 


3.95 
4.25 


4.50 

4.40 
4.55 


4.75 

5.15 
7.15 
5.65 
7.65 


146 


BEFOBT  OE  TARIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


EEFORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


747 


Table  15. — Minimum  wage  schedule /cr  woohn  raw  goods  in  force  for  milh  of  the  United 
Sachsis^-Thuringisdier  weaving  milUfrom  AuguU  6, 1911 — Continued. 


Table  15. — Minimum  wage  schedule  for  woolen  raw  goods  in  force  for  milh  of  the  United 
Sachsische  Thuringischer  weaving  mills  from  August  6,  1911 — Continued. 


LOC.\L  GR0I7P  in. 

Ite  AH  mohair,  camel  bair,liisl«',  or  weCt^bimd  mo- 
tion looms: 

Up  to  320  ends  to  5|  inches  reed  space 

More  than  320  ends  up  to  4Q0  ends  to  5)  inches 
reed  space 

Double  motion,  1  pick 

Above  400  ends  to  5i  inches  reed  space 

Double  motion,  1  pick 


LOCAL  GBOUl*  H. 


im.  Rii 


Sips,  crep«: 
No  higiier  wages  for  wide  goods  inclusive  520 

ends  to  51  inches  reed  space 

•    Above  320  ends  to  SJ  inches  reed  spac«  increase 

for  wide  goods 

Double  motion,  1  pick  (for  an  widths  and 

grades) 

li.  AH  mohair,  eamelhair,  luster,  or  weifton  jacquard: 
Up  to  32()ends,  inclusive,  to5i  inclies  reed  space. 
Up  to 400ends,  inclusive,  to Si  inches  reed  space. 

Double  motion,  1  pick 

Above  400  ends  to  a\  inches  reed  space 

Double  motion,  1  pick 

17ff.  Indian  worsted— Yarn  shales  with  viarp  fringes 
(with  filling  border)  above  49|  inches  reed  space . 
176.  Indian  cheviot  shales  with  warp  ttingea  (with 
filling  border) 


LOCAL  GROUPS  H  A2il>  IlL 

With  colored  borders  (Inclusive  fliltag  border) 

18.  Kipse  with  double  motion,  1  pick: 

180.  With  single  filling 

18b.  With  double  and  triple  spooled  filling— 

224  (English  worsted  No.) 

22|-18  (English  worsted  No.) 

18-13J  (English  worsted  No.) 

Below  \^  (English  worsted  No.) 

Ladies'  cloth  (worsted  warp  with  woolen  filling) 

Kasch  m  ier  weave 

Atlas  less  than  480  ends  to  ^  taclies  reed  space  . . 
Atlas  480  ends  and  more  than  500  ends  to  5| 
inches  reed  space 


Local  Group  II  (Oreiz). 


Posi- 
tion 
No. 


19. 


77 

78 
79 
80 
81 


83 
81 

8-1 

85 

86 
87 

89 

to 

91 

02 

93 

M 
95 
96 
97 

98 
99 

100 


Goods  of 
more  than 
39§  inches 
rood  space. 


Single. 


Marks. 
3.90 

4.35 
6.25 
4.66 
6.50 


4.30 

4. 20 

&ao 

4.95 
4.96 
7.05 
5.20 
7.30 

195 

2.20 

2. 20 
5.10 


Twist. 


Goods  of 
more  than 
35^  inches 

up  to  39| 

mches 
reed  space. 


Single.  Twist. 


3.00 
3.35 

3.55 


MaTk$. 
3.90 

4.35 
<k25 
466 
6.50 


4.20 

0.20 

4.95 
4.95 
7.05 
5.20 
7.30 

2.10 

4.85 

5.75 

6.30 
7.40 
9.05 

2.80 
3.10 

3.35 


Mwrta. 
4.20 

4.70 
(k70 
6.00 
7.00 


4.20 

4.50 

6.20 

5.30 
5.30 

i.m 

5.00 

7.85 


6.50 


3.60 

3.80 


Mterka. 

4.20 

4.70 
&70 
5.00 
7.00 


4.20 

4.50 

6w20 

6.30 
5.30 
7.60 
5.60 

7.85 


Goods  of  35§ 
inches  and 

less 
reed  space. 


Single. 


Maths. 

4.30 

4.80 
6.85 
6.10 
7.15 


4.20 

4.60 

6.20 

5.45 
6.45 

7.75 
5.70 
8.06 


5.20 

6.20 
6.76 
7.95 
9.75 

3.00 
3.35 

3.60 


5.  CO 


3.30 
3.70 

3.90 


Twist. 


Marhs. 
4.30 

4.80 

6.85 
5.10 
7.15 


4.20 

4.60 

6.30 

6.45 
5.45 

7.75 
5.70 

8.05 


5.  35 

6.30 
6.95 
8.15 
9.95 

3.10 

3.40 

3.70 


Local  Group  III. 

Posi- 
tion 
No. 

Goods  of 

more  than 

39J  inches 

reed  space. 

Goods  of 
more  than 
35 J  inches 

up  to  39J 

inches 

reed  space. 

Goods  of  35.J 
inches  and 

less 
reed  space. 

Single. 

Twist. 

Single. 

Twist. 

Single. 

Twist. 

LOCAL  GROUP  ni. 

1.  Kaschmier: 

Ud  to  320  ends  to  5i  inches  reed  snace 

1 

2 
3 
4 

5 
6 

7 
8 

9 

10 

11 

12 

13 
14 

15 

16 

17 

18 

19 
20 

21 
22 

23 

24 

25 
26 

27 

28 

29 

30 

31 
32 
33 
34 

35 
36 
37 

38 
39 

Mai^. 
1.95 

1.90 
2.05 
1.85 

2.00 
2.00 
2.10 

2.05 

2.40 

2.25 

2.50 

2.35 

2.40 
2.50 

2.50 

2.70 

2.85 
3.00 

3.05 
3.15 

3.35 
3.75 

2.15 
2.05 

2.95 
3.10 

3.40 
3  90 

2.35 

2.55 

2.75 
3.30 

Marks. 
1.85 

Marks. 
2.10 

3farhs. 
2.00 

Marks. 
2.15 

Marks. 
2.05 

Up  to  320  ends  to  5i  inches  reed  space  of  55 
inches  and  above 

Above  320  ends  to  SJ  inches  reed  space 

1.95 
1.85 

1.90 
1.90 
2.05 

2.05 

2.25 
2.10 
2.40 
2.25 

2.30 

2.40 

2.30 
2,50 

2.75 
2.90 

2  95 
3.05 

3.25 
3.65 

2.05 
1.95 

2.75 
2.90 

3.15 
3.70 

2.35 

2.45 

2.65 
3.05 

2.20 
2.00 

2.15 

2.10 
2.00 

2.05 

2.25 
2.05 

2.20 

2.15 

Kaschmier,  long 

2.05 

2a.  Tibet  (worsted  merino),  4-hamess  twill: 

Less  than  360  ends  to  oj  inches,  up  to  55  inches 
reed  snSice 

2.10 

Less  than  300  ends  to  5^  inches,  above  55  inches 
reed  space 

360  ends  and  more  to  5J  inches,  up  to  55  inches 
reed  space 

2.25 

2.20 

2.30 

2.25 

300  ends  and  more  to  6i  inches,  above  55  inches 
reed  space 

26.  Worsted,  croise  and  foules: 

Inclusive,  440  ends  to  5i  inches,  up  to  51  inches 
reed  space 

2.  CO 

2.<0 

2.C5 

2.50 

Inclusive,  440  ends  to  5i  inches,  above  51  inches 
reed  snace 

More  than  440  ends  to  3  J  inches,  up  to  51  inches 
reed  space 

2.70 

2.  CO 

2.75 

2.65 

More  than  440  ends  to  hi  inches,  above  51  inches 
reed  space 

2c.  Worsted,  twill,  5  and  6  harness: 

Inclusive.  440  ends  to  5^  inches 

2.60 
2.70 

2.70 
2.90 

3.05 
3.25 

3.30 
3.40 

3.60 
4.05 

2.30 

2.  ,50 
2.60 

2.^0 
2.70 

2.95 
3.10 

2.20 
3.30 

3.50 
3.95 

2.20 

2.65 
2.75 

2.75 
3.00 

3.15 
3.30 

3.35 

3.45 

3.70 
4.15 

2.35 

2.55 

More  than  440  ends  to  5^  inches 

2.65 

2d.  Cheviot,  twill,  4-0  harness: 

Inclusive,  320  ends  to  5^  Inches  reed  space 

More  than  320  ends  to  5^  inches  reed  space 

2tf.  Worsted,  warp  twill,  4  harness  {i  up,  1  down): 

Inclusive,  440  ends  to  5^  inches  reed  space 

More  than  440  ends  to  53r  inches  reed  space 

8.  Kaschmier,  serge,  3-haruess  weave: 

Inclusive,  400  ends  to  oh  inches  reed  space 

Inclusive,  480  ends  to  5|  inches  reed  space 

More  than  480  and  up  to  590  ends  to  5^^  inches 
reed  space 

2.55 
2.75 

3.05 
3.20 

3.25 
3.35 

3.60 

600  ends  and  more  to  5*  inches  reed  space 

4.  Satin,  filling  atlas  (all  wool): 

Ut)  to  47i  inches  reed  snace 

4.00 

125 

Above  Alh  Inrhes  reed  space 

5.  Warp  .atlflg  and  whipcord  for  cam  looms: 

TJd  to  480  ends  to  5i  inches  reed  snace 

3.20 
3.35 

3.65 
4.20 

2.55 

2.75 

2.95 
3.55 
2.75 

2.95 
3.10 

3.40 
4.00 

2.55 

2.65 

2.85 
3.30 
2.75 

3.25 
3.40 

3.75 
4.30 

2.60 

2.80 

3.05 
3.65 

3.05 

Up  to  540  ends  to  5|  inches  reed  space 

3.20 

More  than  540  ends  and  le.ss  than  600  ends  to  SJ 
Inches  reed  space 

3.45 

600  ends  and  more  to  5i  inches  reed  space 

6c.  Musselin: 

Up  to  280  ends  inclusive  to  5*  inches  reed  space  . 
Above  280  ends  up  to  3C>0  ends  to  5^  inches  reed 
space    

4.05 
2.60 
2.70 

Above  300  ends  up  to  400  ends  to  5J  inches  reed 
space    

2.90 

Above  400  ends  to  5i  inches 

3.35 

6ft.  Narrow  Elsasser  print,  musselins 

With  inside  selvace  (double  pieces) 

2.00 

2.00 
1.90 
1.80 

2.00 

2.00 

1.90 
1.80 

LOCAL  GEOUPS  U  AND  HI. 

Plauensche  musselins: 

Up  to  51  inch«^s  reed  space 

2.15 

2.15 

2.20 

2.20 

Above  51  inches  up  to  63  inch(^  reed  space 

More  than  63  inches  reed  snace 

::::::j:::;:::i 

(Sc.  Japan  musselins: 

32J  inches  to  37  inches  reed  snaco 

2.30 

2.30 

With  inside  selvage  (double  pieces) 

2.66 

i66 

748 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFP  BOABD  ON  SCHEDUUE  K. 


KEPOET  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


749 


Table  15.— Mnimttm  wage  schedule  for  woolen  raw  goods  in  force  for  mills  of  the  United 
Saehnsche-Thuringischer  weaving  mills  from  August  6, 19ii— Continued. 


LOCAL  GROUPS  u  AND  III— Continued. 


7a. 


Voile,  musselin: 
Up  to  yam  No 


22  (English  worsted  No.). 


Above  yam  No.  22  (English  worsted  No.). 


Above  yarn  No.  48  (English  worsted  No 
76.  Voile,  jacquards:  .  ^  »,    ^ 

Up  to  yam  No.  22  ( English  worsted  No.) 

Anove  yam  No.  22  (English  worsted  No.) 

Above  yam  No.  48  (English  worsted  No.), 

single  warp 

7e,  Etaminies: 

Up  to  yam  No.  9  (English  worsted  No.).. 

Above  yam  No.  9  ( English  worsted  No.)  up  to 
13|  (English  worsted  No.) 

8.  Coating  for  confection  (Tibet  with  lining),  harness. 

9.  Corkscrew  for  confection: 

Up  to  500  ends  to  5i  inches  reed  space 

Up  to  660  ends  to  5^  inches  reed  space 

Above  560  up  to  640  ends  to  5 J  inches  reed  space. 

10.  Annures,  with  more  than  109  picks  per  inch  (fill- 

ing faced) ;  —  -  -  - •  -  -  - 

11.  Head-motion  looms  (with  exception  of  those  arti- 

cles under  No.  15): 

Less  than  400  ends  to  5i  inches 

With  cheviot  yam  warp 

400  ends  and  less  than  480  ends  to  5i  inches  reed 


space 

With  cheviot  yam  warp - 

480  ends  and  less  than  600  ends  to  5  J  inches  reed 


Posi- 
tion 
No. 


space 

600  ends  and  less  than  720  ends  to  5J  inches  reed 


space 

720  ends  and  inclusive  800  ends  to  5|  Inches 


reed  space . 
Above  800  ends  to  5 J  inches  reed  space. 

LOCAL  GROtJP  I. 


12. 


13. 


Plain  Jacquard  with  less  than  480  ends  per  5| 
inches  reed  space 

With  cheviot  yam  warp - . 

480  ends  and  less  than  5(i0  ends  to  5i  inches  reed 
space -■•- • 

560  ends  and  more  to  51  inches  reed  space 

Jacquard  1  and  1  worsted  with  sillv  or  chappe  imi- 
tation up  to  480  ends  to  5i  inches  ret>d  space. . 

Above  480  ends  to  5^  inches  reed  space 

14o.  Jacquard  landl  worsted  or  cotton  with  mohair, 
camel  hair,  luster,  or  weft  (with  exception  of 
so-called  staple  half- wool  luster): 

Light  weave - -  -  -  •  - ■ 

Musselin  ground  with  400  ends  to  5i  inches  reed 
space  inclusive 

Double  motion,  1  pick 

Above  400  ends  to  5J  hiohes  reed  space 

Double  motion,  I  pick 


14&, 


15a. 


LOCAL  GROUP  in. 

Half  wool  luster: 

Up  to  400  ends  to  5|  inches  reed  space 

More  than  400  ends  to  5i  inches  reed  space 

All  mohair,  camel  hair,   luster  or  weft,  bead 
motion  looms; 

Up  to  320  ends  to  5i  inches  reed  space 

More  than  320  ends  up  to  400  ends  to  5J  Inches 
reed  space 

Double  motion,  1  pick 

Above  400  ends  to  5J  inches  reed  space 

Double  motion,  1  pick 


Local  Group  III. 


40 
41 
42 

43 
44 

45 

46 

47 

48 

49 
50 
51 

52 


53 
54 

56 
56 

57 

58 

59 
60 


61 
62 

63 

64 

65 
66 


67 

68 
69 
70 
71 


72 
73 


74 

75 
76 

77 
78 


Goods  of 

more  than 

39i  inches 

reed  space. 


Single. 


Marks. 
3.65 
3.00 
3.75 

4.70 
4.35 

4.85 

6.95 

5.90 
3.10 

3.55 
3.65 
3.86 

2.70 


3.05 
3.15 

3.25 
3.40 

3. 35 

3.75 

4.05 
4.55 


3.45 
3.55 

8.65 
3.86 

3.90 
3.90 


4.10 

4.70 
6.40 

5.05 
6.70 


4.45 
4.80 


Twist. 


Marks. 
3.65 
3.00 


4.70 
4.35 


6.90 

6.86 
2.90 

3.25 
3.45 
3.65 

160 


3.06 
3.15 


Goods  of 
more  than 
36^  inches 

up  to  39i 

inches 
reed  space. 


Single. 


3.25 

3.55 

3.85 
4.36 


3.36 


3.60 
3.76 

3.90 
3.90 


4.10 

4.70 
6.40 
5.05 
6.70 


4.45 
4.80 


3.60 

4.16 
5.75 
4.45 
6.35 


J/ar?.-». 
3.80 
3.25 
4.06 

5.05 
4.70 

5.20 

7.45 

6.35 
3.36 

3.80 
3.95 
4.15 

2.90 


3.30 
3.40 

3.60 

3.65 

3.60 

4.05 

4.35 
4.90 


8.70 
3.80 

3.95 
4.15 

4.20 
4.20 


4.40 

5.05 
6.90 
5.45 
7.20 


4.80 
6.15 


Twist. 


Marks 
3.80 
3.25 


6.05 
4.70 


7.40 

6.30 
3.10 

3.60 
3.70 
3.80 

2.80 


3.30 
3.40 


Goods  of  35| 
inches  and 

less 
reed  space. 


3.60 

3.80 

4.16 
4.70 


3.60 


3.86 
4.05 

4.20 
4.20 


4.40 

5.05 
6.90 
6.45 
7.20 


4.80 
6.15 


3.85 

4.45 
G.20 
4.80 
6.85 


Single.  Twist. 


Marks. 
3.90 
3.30 
4.15 

6.15 
4.80 

5.35 

7.65 

6,50 
3.40 

3.90 
4.00 
4.25 

2.05 


3.36 
3.46 

3.60 
3.75 

3.70 

4.15 

4.45 
6.00 


3.80 
3.90 

4.00 
4.25 

4.30 
4.30 


4.50 

6.15 
7.05 
6.66 
7.36 


4.90 
6.30 


Marks. 
3.90 
3.30 


5.15 
4.80 


7.60 

6.45 
3.20 

3.60 
3.80 
3.90 

2.85 


3.35 
3.45 


3.60 

3.90 

4.25 
4.80 


3.70 


3.95 
4.15 

4.30 
4.30 


4.50 

5.15 
7.05 
5.55 
7.35 


4.90 
5.30 


3.95 

4.55 
6.30 
4.90 
6.96 


I 


» 


• 


J 


Table  15. — Minimum  wage  schedule  for  woolen  raw  goods  in  force  for  mills  of  the  U7iited 
Sachsische-Turingischer  weaving  mills  from  August  6, 1911 — Continued. 


LOCAL  GROUP  H. 

16.  All  mohair,  camel  hair,  luster  or  weft  on  jacquard: 
Up  to  320  ends,  inclusive,  to  5i  inches  reed  space 
Up  to  400  ends,  inclusive,  to  5|  inches  reed  space 

Double  motion,  1  pick * 

Above  400  ends  to  5J  Inches  reed  space 

Double  motion,  1  pick 

17o.  Indian  worsted— Yam  shales  with  warp  fringes 
(with  filling  border)  above  493^  inches  reed  space. 

176.  Indian  cheviot  shales  with  warp  fringes  (%vith 
filling  border) 

LOCAL  GROtJPS  H  AND  m. 

With  colored  borders  (inclusive  filling  border) 

18.  Ripse  with  double  motion,  1  pick: 

18o.  With  single  filling 

186.  With  double  and  triple  spooled  filling— 

22i  (English  worsted  No.) 

22|-18  ( English  worsted  No.) 

18-13 J  (English  worsted  No.) 

Below  13 J  ( English  worsted  No.) 

19.  Ladies'  cloth  (worsted  warp  with  woolen  filling) 

Kaschmier  weave 

Atlas  less  than  480  ends  to  hh  inches  reed  space. 
Atlas  480  ends  and  more  than  500  ends  to  5i 

inches  reed  space 


Local  Group  III. 


Posi- 
tion 
No. 


79 
80 
81 
82 
83 

84 

85 


86 

87 

88 
89 
90 
91 

92 
93 

94 


Goods  of 
more  than 
39J  inches 
reed  space. 


Single. 


Marks. 


L85 
2.05 

2.20 
4.70 


2.80 
3.15 

3.35 


Twist. 


Marks. 
4.05 
4.65 
6.55 
5.15 
7.05 

L80 

L95 


2.45 

4.45 

5.25 
5.75 
6.75 
8.25 

2.70 
3.00 

3.25 


Goods  of 

more  than 

35J  Inches 

up  to  39J 

inches 

reed  space. 


Single. 


Marks. 


5.05 


3.00 
3.40 

3.60 


Twist 


Marks. 
4.35 
5.00 
7.05 
5.55 
7.60 


4.80 

5.65 
6.20 
7.25 
8.85 

2.90 
3.25 

3.50 


Goods  of  35^ 
inches  and 

less 
reed  space. 


Smgle.  Twist 


Marks. 


5.15 


3.10 
3.45 

3.70 


Marks. 
4.45 
5.10 
7.20 
5.65 
7.75 


4.90 

5.75 
6.30 
7.40 
9.05 

2.95 
3.30 

3.60 


For  goods  of  vlgoureux  and  colored  warp  material  wages  increase,  as  per  following:  All  grades  up  to  400 
ends  to  5J-lnch  reed  space  25  pfennig  per  109.361  yards  filUng  length;  all  grades  with  more  then  400  ends  to 
6J-inch  reed  space  50  pfennig  per  109.361  yards  filling  length. 

This  wage  schedule  Is  made  out  for  "100  zahlen"  of  1,000  meters  of  filling  yam  each,  or  109,361  yards  of 
woven  fiiUng  length. 

SLOW  LOOM   BONUS   WORK. 

t 

On  the  particularly  slow  looms,  i.  e.,  those  under  70  picks  per 
minute,  women  weavers  are  usually  employed,  and  though  the  weav- 
ing rate  per  yard  of  cloth  in  the  raw  is  tlio  same,  a  premium  or  bonus 
is  paici  to  the  women,  bringing  their  earnings  up  materially — young 
women,  or,  more  properly,  girls  who  are  just  beginning  to  weave  but 
are  not  efficient  enough  to  be  put  on  regular  work,  old  women,  or 
women  weavers  who  for  any  reason  are  satisfied  to  accept  work  on 
the  old  looms.  It  is  said  that  some  of  the  looms  given  to  women 
weavers  in  and  around  Forst  are  48-pick  looms. 

Frequently,  again,  the  women  are  paid  a  flat  day  rate  on  these  slow 
looms,  with  a  bonus  on  production.  The  result  of  this  method  of 
working  is  shown  in  the  table  below.  It  must  be  admitted  that  these 
women  get  a  remarkable  production  in  a  week  out  of  the  looms. 
The  following  table  shows  the  result  of  a  week's  work  for  18  women, 
working  for  a  flat  day  rate  on  these  old  looms,  with  a  bonus  or 
premium  on  the  amount  of  output  produced. 


750 


BEPOBT  OF   TARIFF  BOABD   ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


The  yarn  counts  in  the  table  are  given  by  the  international  system 
of  numbering,  wliicli  is  by  the  thousand  meters  of  yarn  required  to 
weigh  1  kilo;  that  is  to  say,  No.  1  yarn  weighs  1  kilo  to  1,000  meters; 
No.  2  yam  requires  2,000  meters  to  weigh  a  kilo,  etc.  The  flat  rate 
and  premium  are  given  in  marks,  the  total  pay  per  week  in  United 
States  money,  and  from  this  and  the  cloth  analysis  shown,  the  rate  per 
1,000  picks  actually  paid  is  shown.  This  shows  that  the  manufac- 
turer, by  means  of  a  bonus  system,  gets  his  work  done  on  these  slow 
looms  at  just  about  the  same  price  per  1,000  picks,  hence  per  yard, 
as  he  pays  on  other  looms.  In  other  words,  by  means  of  the  flat  day 
rate  and  a  bonus  he  is  able  to  use  his  out-of-date  looms  to  an  advan- 
tage, which  makes  him  indifferent  to  any  proposition  to  discard  them 
for  speedier  ones.  By  placing  the  flat  day  rate  so  low  (about  37 J 
cents  per  day)  he  puts  all  the  emphasis  on  the  bonus  or  premium, 
which,  it  will  be  seen,  is  very  high  compared  to  the  day  rate.  It  is 
not  only  a  masterly  speeding-up  scheme,  but  it  keeps  women  on  the 
looms,  whereas  the  newer,  higher  type  machines  would  probably  be 
operated  for  the  most  part  by  men. 


4. 


1 


BEPORT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


751 


• 

That  is  to  say,  if  on  a  100-pick  loom  the  weaver  actually  produces 
50  picks  in  a  minute,  the  loss  is  40  picks,  and  the  actual  production  is 
60  per  cent  of  the  theoretical  efficiency.  Not  all  of  the  cards  gave 
the  full  data  to  enable  us  to  bring  out  this  point,  but  enough  did  so 
to  enable  the  reader  to  get  a  fairly  good  idea  of  the  general  efficiency 

of  German  weavers.  ,  .      ,         , ,    .  ^.     „ 

«    Samples  of  tlie  raw  weave  as  described  in  the  table  m  practically 

every  case  are  in  the  possession  of  the  board. 


Name  of  the  cloth. 


Flannel  twill  for  coating 
Mai  ton  (flanuel  lining) . 

Do 

Military  troiwering 

Women's  worsted  cloth 
Twill 

Do 

Twill  (marine  jerkin j. . . 

Miners'  shirtinj^ 

Atlas  for  coating 

Serge 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Laiiia  cloaking 

Striped  lama  cloakinp;. . 
Lama  cloaking  (lining). 

Do 


3 

.a 

ft 

m 

i 


GO 
60 
60 
60 

60 
58 
58 
CO 
57 
56 
61 
62 
60 
60 
60 
60 
61 
61 


5 

o 


C2. 
70. 
70. 
55. 

m. 

70. 
G2. 
51. 
55. 
57. 


55. 
55. 
6y. 
63. 
70. 
60. 


d 

ft 
as 


!z; 


ft 


a 


2,700 
2.320 
2,300 
2,4S0 
3.440 
3,360 

2,7eo 

2.640 
2,480 
2,680 
3,040 
3,020 
3,020 
3,020 
2,320 
2,320 
2.600 
2,500 


10| 
5 

6 
13 

103 
10 
9 
14 
11 

loi 

12J 
12J 
12 

9 

9 

8} 

9i 


a 


a 

.3 

u 

a. 


33 
28 

36 
48 

38 
38 
41 
33 

36 
51 
43 

48 

48 
33 
30 

23 
38 


139.98 
156.38 
156.38 
136.70 
113.70 
118.10 
118.10 
153,10 
117.00 
122.48 
118.11 
117.02 
126.86 
131.23 
139.98 
131.23 
131.23 
153. 10 


J8 


Marks. 
1.25 
1.25 
1.25 
1.25 
1.25 
1.08 
1.08 
1,25 
1.08 
1.25 
1.25 
1.25 
1.25 
1.25 
1.25 
1.25 
1.25 
1.25 


Marks. 
3.10 
4.35 
4.35 
4.00 
2.C0 
2.12 
2.50 
3.40 
3.20 
3.00 
3.30 
4.00 
4.05 
3.87 
3.60 
3.20 
3.  CO 
4.30 


•2 

•a 
|| 

eS  -^^ 

3 

o 


$2.53 
2.82 
2. 82 
2.74 
2.40 
2.05 

Mm    X4t 

2.59 
2.30 
2.50 
2.57 
2.74 
2.75 
2.71 
2.64 
2.55 
2.64 
2.81 


Rate  per 

1,000  picks 

of  filling 

yam. 


. 


5.55 

7.63 

7.63 

6.67 

6.1 

6.31 

5.5 

4.8 

6.96 

6.7 

S.0 

6.3 

5.24 

4.99 

6.67 

7.43 

8.4 

6.6 


a   . 

■si 

■a  I 


10.0132 
.0181 
.0181 
.015« 
.0121 
.0128 
.0133 

.oiia 

.0163 

.0159 

.0119 

.0150 

.0125 

.0119 

.0159 

.01-77 

.02 

.0133 


By  reference  to  Table  16  further  study  of  German  weavers'  earn- 
ings and  efficiency  may  be  made.  That  table  presents  the  work  of 
individual  weavers  on  specific  cloths  described  in  the  table.  For 
the  most  part  small  samples  of  the  weaves  described  are  in  possession 
of  the  Tariff  Board;  the  relation  of  wages  to  output  on  specific 
weaves  is  there  brought  out. 

Supplementing  the  foregoing  tabulation  of  German  weavers'  wage 
scales,  a  number  of  efficiency  tests  were  secured  on  specifically 
described  ftibrics,  the  output  of  weavers  was  ascertained,  together 
with  the  rate  of  pay  per  yard  and  earnings  per  hour  on  that  specific 
fabric,  and  in  many  cases  the  speed  of  the  loom  and  the  percentage 
of  loss  between  the  actual  and  the  theoretical  production. 


752 


BEPORT  OF  TABIFF  BOAKD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


BEPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


753 


Table  16. — Description  of  loom,  hours,  rates  and  eaminga  of  weavers,  descriptwn  of  cloth 


District. 


Gera 

Do.. 
Do.. 
Do.. 
Do.. 
Do.. 
Do.- 
Do.. 
Do.. 
Do.. 
Do.. 
Do.. 
Do.. 
Do.. 
Do.. 
Do.. 
Do.. 
Do.. 

Do.. 

1)0.. 

Do.. 
Do.. 
Do.. 
Do.. 

Do.. 

Do.. 

Do.. 

Do.. 

Do.. 
Do.. 
Do-. 
Do.. 

Do.. 
Do.. 

Do.. 

Do.. 

Do.. 
Do.. 

Do.. 

Do.. 
Do.. 
Do.. 
Do.. 
Do.. 

Do.. 
Do.. 

Do.. 
Do.. 
Do.. 

Do.. 

Do.. 
Do.. 
Do.. 
Do.. 
Do.. 
Do.. 
Do.. 

Do.. 

Do.. 
Do.. 
Do.. 
Do.. 
Do.. 
Do.. 


Card 
No. 


1 
2 

3 
4 
5 
6 

7 
8 
9 
10 
11 
12 
13 
14 
15 
16 
17 
18 

19 

20 
21 
22 
23 
24 

25 

26 

27 
28 

29 
30 
31 
32 

33 
34 

35 

37 

38 
39 

40 

41 
42 
43 
44 
45 

40 
47 

48 
49 
50 

51 

52 
53 
54 
55 
56 
67 

m 
m 

60 
61 
62 
63 
64 
65 


Num- 
ber of 
looms 

at- 
tended. 


2 

1 
2 
2 

2 

2 
2 
2 
2 

2 

2 
3 

2 
2 
2 


2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
3 

3 

2 
2 
2 
2 


Looms. 

• 

Hours,  rates,  and  eaminp. 

Single 

or 
double 
beam 
work. 

Num- 
ber of 
shut- 
tles. 

Num- 
ber of 
harness. 

Picks 

per 

minute. 

Hours 
worked. 

Piece 

price  per 

yard. 

Earnings 
per  hour. 

1 

8 

95 

10.0353 

$0.0904 

1 

6 

110 

.0386 

.1247 

1 

6 

110 

.0341 

.1332 

1 

4 

110 

.0328 

.1290 

1 

4 

110 

28.5 

.0234 

.0975 

1 

8 

95 

.0658 

.0952 

1 

4 

no 

<••••■    -mm* 

.01(56 

.0952 

1 

8 

110 

28.0 

.0279 

.1133 

1 

4 

108 

25.0 

.0279 

.1361 

1 

8 

110 

.0286 

.1209 

1 

8 

115 

.0277 

.0871 

1 

4 

120 

20.0 

.0342 

.1114 

1 

6 

110 

.0251 

.1276 

1 

6 

120 

32.0 

.0288 

.1081 

1 

4 

120 

.0253 

.1200 

1 
3 

4 

4 

115 
90 

.0255 
.0610 

.0990 
.1428 

2 

4 

98 

32.0 

.0467 

.1609 

3 

16 

110 

.0406 

.1299 

3 

4 

90 

.0489 

.1314 

3 

12 

90 

52.0 

.0591 

.1380 

2 

8 

90 

.osas 

.1170 

3 

8 

115 

.0403 

.1656 

3 

4 

85 

.0334 

.0923 

2 

5 

90 

.0367 

.1671 

%^ 

5 

110 

.0312 

.1428 

2 

2 

8 

90 

.0416 

.1452 

3 

2 

10 

90 

.0523 

.1752 

2 

1 

16 

110 

.0367 

.1176 

2 

1 

10 

no 



.0534 

.1523 

1 

1 

13 

no 

.0442 

.1161 

1 

1 

13 

120 

.0420 

.1081 

2 

1 

18 

95 

.0519 

.1247 

1 

1 

18 

110 

.0438 

.1332 

2 

1 

8-12 

120 

.0469 

.1760 

1 

1 

110 

.0655 

.1428 

3 

2 

110 

.0326 

.1175 

1 

2 

4 

90 

.0284 

.1675 

2 

2 

4 

$5 

.0343 

.  1518 

2 

2 

4 

90 

.0393 

.1375 

1 

3 

4 

90 

.0403 

.1347 

2 

2 

4 

90 

.0460 

1623 

3 

.  6 

115 

.0346 

.0985 

•  5 

120 

.0296 

.1104 

3 

6 

130 

30 

.0221 

.0976 

4 

120 

.0211 

.1057 

4 

115 

.0365 

.1219 

4 

120 

20 

.0288 

.1104 

4 

120 

.0213 

.0876 

4 

115 

.0287 

.1138 

4 

120 

.0281 

.0928 

4 

110 

.0333 

.1047 

4 

115 

.0301 

.1081 

3 

120 

.0568 

.0795 

10 

115 

.0351 

.1057 

13 

110 

.0445 

.1428 

13 

110 

.0209 

.0714 

13 

110 

.0332 

.1138 

10 

120 

.0432 

.1176 

12 

120 

.0398 

.1009 

12 

110 

35.35 

.0308 

.1000 

18 

115 

.0519 

.1147 

8 

120 

.0383 

.1271 

8 

115 

.0256 

.1057 

woven,  and  ejficiency  of  looms  in  woolen  and  worsted  mills  in  specified  districts  in  Germany. 


■i 


Picks 

per 

inch. 


74 
79 
77 
05 
44 
74 
38 
67 
58 
69 
CI 
71 
GO 
74 
59 
73 
75 
58 

09 

66 
75 

76 
68 
51 

33 

38 

43 

53 

65 

76 


109 
86 

72 

74 

58 
60 
24 

32 

35 
64 
60 
86 
82 

71 
56 

81 
71 
73 

71 

84 
81 
65 
229 
89 
77 
58 

75 

103 

109 

71 

121 

71 

65 


Description  of  cloth  woven. 


Width 

in 
inches. 


68.0 
65.7 
63.8 
59.4 
61.0 
67.9 
56.7 
59.4 
69.4 
59.4 
64.9 
68.9 
60.2 
60.2 
63.6 
65.9 
53.5 
61.4 

45.3 

55.9 
55.5 
54.7 
64.1 
59.8 

63.4 

64.  C 

51.3 

55.9 

65.9 
64.4 
61.4 
45.7 

69.7 
69.7 

68.3 

41.9 
43.5 
29.2 

62.7 

59.4 
45.3 
59.1 
69.1 
54.7 

65.5 
50. 8 

57.4 
59.2 
55.7 

55.9 

57.4 
55.1 
52.9 
57.4 
46-1 
67.7 
38.2 

55.3 

45.3 
45.2 
53.5 
45.2 
59.8 
55.2 


Num- 
ber of 
ends. 


7,520 
5,100 
5,0u0 
3,980 


7.520 
2,900 
31620 
2,400 
4,045 
3,320 
4,480 
3,900 
5,200 
3,816 
4,120 
4,080 
4,400 

3,280 

4,000 
4,830 
4,320 
3,760 
2,800 

2,380 

4,400 

6,080 

6,800 

7,660 


6,200 
4,860 

9,960 
10,580 

9,240 

6,540 
2,860 
1,380 


2.440 
2.900 
3,128 
4,340 
4,720 

4,310 
3,100 

5,614 
4,480 
4,200 

4,800 

5,080 
6,060 


2,948 
6.640 
9,700 


C,000 

5,160 
5,360 
5,080 
5,200 
5,912 
4,400 


Warp. 


Ply  and 
count. 


2-70 

2-40 

2-64.5 

2-70 

1-12 

2-70 

1-20 

2-48 

2-40 

2-56a 

2-40 

2-52 

2-36 

2-80 

2-40 

1-42 

2-70 

2-70 
ri-42 
\2-90 

2-70 

2-70 

2-70 

2-40 
11-12 
r2-32 
\2-24 

2-70 
/2-70 
\2-60 

2-70 

2-52 

2-70 

2-78 

2-78 
i2-m 
\l-39 
/2-78 
tl-39 
12-80 
\2-84 

2-106 

2-84 

2-24 
/2-20 
\2-24 

2-36 

2-80 

2^2 

2-64 

2-78 

2-78 

1-14 

2-40 
/2-78.S 
\2-200 

2—52 
J 1-42 
\2-80 
;2-70 
\2-70 

2-78 

^70 

1-42 

2-40 

2-86 

2-78 

2-200 
/2-78 
12-40 

2-96 

2-78 

2-70 

2-86 

2-64 

2-64 


Quality. 


Filling. 


Ply  and 
count. 


Quality. 


Vigognia. 
Worsted. 

do... 

Vigognia. 
Worsted. 
Vigognia. 


Worsted 

do 

do 

....do 

do 

Cotton 

Worsted  and  cotton. . 

Worsted 

Imitation 

Vigognia 

....do 

Vigognia  and  cotton . 


Vigognia. 


Vigognia  and  worsted 

Worsted 

Carded 

Worsted 


Vigopia 

Cotton 

Vigognia  and  silk  im- 
itation. 

Worsted , 

Vigognia , 

Worsted 

do 

Left-twist  worsted. . 


Left  worsted. 
Cotton 


Silk... 
Voile.. 
Moline. 


Vigognia 

do 

AVorsted 

Worsted  and  imita- 
tion. 

Worsted 

Moline 

Twist 

Worsted 

Silk 

Worsted 

Imitation 


2-60 
1-20 
1-33 
1-35 
1-12 
2-60 

12  m.m. 
2-48 
1-20 
12-8 
1-20 
1-26 
1-18 

20  m.m. 
1-20 
1-36 
1-35 
2-70 
1-42 
2-96 
2-70 
1-35 
1-40 
1-20 
1-18 
1-12 


11  m.m. 
7  m.m. 


18  m.m. 

2-60 
1-40 
1-26 
1-52 
1-42 


1-26 


2-40 


1-64 

1-100 

1-9 

2-20 

2-24 

2-40 

1-28 

2-80 

1-45 

1-28 

1-28 
1-24 


1-35 


1-26 
1-36 


Vigognia. 
Moline... 
Worsted. 
....do... 
....do... 
Cotton . . . 
Worsted. 

do... 

Silk 

Worsted. 
Cotton . . . 
Worsted. 
....do... 
Vigognia. 
Worsted. 
Molinos.. 
Worsted. 


1-40 


1-60 
1-40 
1-40 
1-84 
1-78 
1-33 
1-78 
1-33 


1-78 
1-60 
1-41 
1-84 
2-64 
1-34 


Cotton.. 
Worsted. 
do... 


Vigognia 

Worsted 

Cotton 

Carded  wool. 

Worsted 

do 

do 

do 

....do 

Cotton 

Carded 

Worsted 

do 


Production. 


Yards 
made. 


Vigognia 

do 

do 

Cotton 

Vigognia 

do 

Vigognia  and  worsted 

Worsted 

do 

Carded 


Carded- 
....do.. 


Carded. 


Silk  imitation. 

Vigognia 

Worsted 

do 

.....do 


Worsted . 
Cotton.. 


Voile.., 
Silk.... 
Napp6. 


Vigognia. . 
Imitation. 
Worsted.. 
do.... 


....do. 
Twist. 


Worsted. 


Worsted . 
do... 


Vigognia. 


Worsted , 
Cheviot. 
Worsted . 

do... 

do... 

do-. 

do... 

do. .. 


Worsted . 
....do... 
Vigognia. 
Worsted . 
....do... 
....do... 


30 
61 


60 


64 
61 
89 


39 
63 
60 


63 


55 
44 


38 
62 

01 


61 


61 
61 


68 
57 

"m 

*68' 


96 


62 
63 


30 


38 
63 


39 


58 
66 
62 


33 
41 
61 
66 
54 


Per 

cent 
of  loss. 


40 
30 
30 
30 
50 
GO 
40 
25 
20 
20 
20 
25 
25 
30 
30 
25 
40 
40 
40 


40 
40 
35 

30 
50 
50 


50 
50 


40 

40 
40 
30 
30 
35 


40 


30 


30 
40 
60 
50 


50 
40 
40 
30 
25 

25 
30 


30 


30 
25 


30 


30 
30 
40 
20 
30 
30 
45 
30 


30 
30 
40 
30 
40 
30 


f 


754 


KEPOET  OP  TARIFF  BOABD  ON   SCHKDULE  K. 


Table  10. — D^aripiion  of  loom,  hours,  rotoi  and  eaamm§s  of  wmmr%  descripiion  of 

Germany — 


Bifttrlet. 


Card 

No. 


Otra... 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 

Do. 


Do. 

Do. 

Do. 
Do. 

Do. 


Roicfaenbach. 


m 

67 

68 
69 
7*J 
71 
72 
7Z 
74 

75 
76 

77 

78 
79 

80 

81 
82 
83 
84 

87 

89 

90 

91 

92 

93 

94 

05 

9f. 

97 

98 

99 

100 

101 

102 

103 

Do I     104 

Cilmraitsebau 105 

Do I    100 


Do.. 

Do... 

Do.. 

Do... 

Do... 

Do... 

Do... 

Do. . . 

Do... 

jya... 

Do... 

Do... 

Do. . . 

Do... 

Do... 

Do... 

Do. . . 

Do.. 

Do... 

Do.. 

Do... 

Do... 


Do. 
Do. 

Do. 

Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do- 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 


Kirchberg 

Cottbus  /. 

Do 

Do 

Do 

■Roaswein  (Sachaan) 

Lynberg 

Do....: 


107 
108 

109 

no 
111 

112 
lU 
IM 
115 
110 
117 
118 
119 
120 
121 
122 
121 

125 

rx 

127 
128 
129 
130 
131 
132 
I3i 
135 


Looms. 


Num- 
ber of 
looms 

at- 
tended 


2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
1 
1 
1 
1-2 
2-1 
2-1 
2 
2 
2 

2 

2 


Single 

or 
dknible 


wOTk. 


Num- 
ber of 
shut- 
tles. 


1 

5 
3 

<s 

2 


2 
4 
4 

3 
2 
8 
4 
1 
1 

a 

3 
3 

3 
3 
3 

3 
2 
1 
4 

3 
3 
4 
9 
2 
2 


Num- 
ber of 
harness. 


It 

14 

11 

7 

10 

8 
8 
6 

t 


12 


10 
4 
4 
4 

10 
4 
3 
4 
4 
3 
3 
4 
4 

la 
t 

t 

4 
i 

9 

li 

3 
5 

4 

4 

16 
18 

IS 

8 

16 

18 
20 
12 
10 
16 
Xti 
14 
16 
10 
16 
3 
10 


Picks 
per 

minut« 


110 

12^ 
130 
120 
115 
115 
110 
110 
123 

129 

12D 

110 

12') 
115 

110 

123 

Ot 

110 

95 

70 

120 

110 

110 

110 

120-130 

110 


10 
12 
16 

4 
12 
10 
16 
16 

4 
12 
12 


120-130 

70 

71 

75 

05 

95 

110 

110 

100 

12J3 

12') 

63-64 
73 
62 


Hours,  rates,  and  earnings. 


81 


70 
80 

72 


68 
€4 
60 
78 

70-78 
58 
78 


Ilours 
worlced. 


OS 


80-84 
55 
74 
73 
50 
72 

00-65 
84 


100 


21 
30 


ix«2 

20—25 

12-14 

31 

2> 

14 

33 

25 

35 

85 

35-40 

2a-25 

20-22 

48-60 

20 

25 

15 

25-30 

40 


Piece 
pcfcepcr 

yard. 


30 

la 


$0.0317 
.0249 
.0208 
.0210 
.0194 
.0271 
.0754 
.0281 
.0419 

.0119 

.0234 

.0193 
.0129 


.0142 
.0115 
.0195 
.0200 

.0486 
.01  iS 
.0141 
.0117 
.0207 
.0194 
.0124 
.0198 
.0195 
.0545 
.1010 
.0638 
.0217 
.0300 
.0179 
.0132 
.0208 
.0178 

.0341 

.0109 

.0720 
.0886 
.0811 

.0887 


Eamlngi 
IKsr  hour. 


10.1071 
.0781 
.0776 
.0002 
.1038 
.0981 
.0919 
.0904 
.0970 

.0719 

.0856 

.1071 

.0890 
.0&{8 

.1261 

.0904 
.0C)19 

.i;:x)0 

.(»()4 
.1584 
.OfiSf) 
.0088 
.0878 
.0912 
.0952 
.0918 
.  0872 
.0650 
.0887 
.0660 
.0052 
.0517 
.1060 
.0854 
,0654 
.0616 
.0736 

.0822 

.0530 


.0012 


REPORT  OP  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDUI^  K. 


755 


cloth  vwveUf  arid  ejjfudenqf  of  looms  in.  vx>ol€n  and  -worsted  nulls  in,  specif^  districts  in 
Continued. 


Description  of  cloth  woven. 


Picks 

per 

inch. 


75 
71 
64 

58 
65 
65 
227 
68 
60 

33 
60 

40 

41 

62 

60 

88 

41 
S8 
32 
43 
fiS 
47 
37 
25 
56 
38 
64 
45 
43 
64 
43 
90 
23 
48 
47 
37 
49 

Bl 

29 


Width 

in 
inches. 


62 
86 
60 

86 

62 
86 
49 
60 
47 
63 
41 
64 
61 
61 
85 
58 
68 
t7 
73 
38 
61 
29 
47 
•  71 
61 
£0 
27 
58 
58 


55.7 
45.2 
44.1 
43.1 
54.7 
54.7 


53.9 
61.3 

50.7 
59.4 

45.2 

34.2 
53.1 

58.6 

6a3 


82.7 
54.0 
57.5 

sas 

61.0 
64.7 

66.9 
20.5 
58.3 
68.8 
37.2 
57.4 


62.1 
55.1 


35.7 

52.4 
66.9 
61.9 

62.9 

61.9 

63.8 

64.9 
66.9 
68.9 
72.4 
59.1 
72.1 
66.9 
66.9 
70.9 
70.9 
75.9 
66.9 
63.0 
47.2 
33.1 
48.4 
86.6 


68.8 
66.7 
65-7 
6a7 
106.2 
66.7 
66.7 


Num- 
ber of 
ends. 


4,400 
3,600 
3,560 
3,290 
3,770 
3,720 
4,040 
3,450 
3,720 

3,600 
3,620 

3,010 

1,560 
2,840 


2,400 


Warp. 


Ply  and 
count 


1.040 
2,480 
3,150 
3,070 
1,940 
2,240 
2.000 
2,  ICO 
4,800 
1,000 
2,430 
3,000 
3.280 
1,670 
1,350 
3,360 
2,350 


3,560 

2,280 

1,668 
7.300 
0,000 

7,000 

3,872 

7,000 

6,400 
5.800 
3.000 
6,200 
3,  COO 
0,300 
3,480 
5,580 
6,900 
6,912 
3,700 
5,760 
6,440 
2,880 
4,500 
3,730 
0,912 
1,320 
3,560 
5,900 
7,600 
7,500 
2,700 
5,200 
5,200 


2-78 
1-42 
1-42 
2-70 
2-78 
2-70 
2-64 
2-70 
2-70 

1-26 

2-70 

2-GO 
2-40 
2-44 
1-45 
/  1-49 
\  2-110 
24-2 
23r 


Quality. 


Filling. 


Ply  and 
count. 


Quality. 


Worsted 

Worsted  left  twist. 

do 

Vigognia 

'"/.dQV"/^l'.'.'.''.'. 
Worsted 


Vig(Knia. 
Cheviot... 


20 
18-11 
46 
42 
18 


2-78 


28 


18-11 
20 
11 
11 
8m.m. 
49 


2-18 
2-40 
2-78 
2-80 
8m.m. 
2-54 


{ 


2-48 

2-80 

lO-s 

2-54 
2-52 


2-54 

9'S 
6-48 
48's 
2-36 

80 


Vigognia 

Cotton 

Mohair 

Cheviot 

Worsted  angora. 

Worsted 

Artificial  silk... 
Cheviot 


Worsted. 


Carded . . 
Worsted. 

do... 

Carded . . 
Cotton... 
Worsted. 
Carded . . 
Cotton... 


Carded . 


^Selvage,  crossbred. . . 


Worsted. 
Cheviot.. 
Carded . . 
Worsted. 

do... 

Cotton... 
Carded . . 
....do... 
Worsted, 
-...do... 
Cotton... 
Carded . . 

Worsted. 


20 
11 
11 

in.  m. 
20 


Worsted. 

do.., 

do... 


VigMuia. 

""do'.'.'. 

Worsted . 
Vigoenia. 
do... 


Vigognia 
C-otton 


-do. 


Carded 

Woolen  card . 

Worsted . . . . , 

Carded 


Worsted . 


Carded 

Worsted 

Carded 

do , 

Cotton,  wool . 

Carded. , 

do 

Worsted . . . . . 


Production. 


Yards 
made. 


62 


I 


CO 
56 


Carded... 


18 
18 

65 

im.  m. 
2-54 


2-54 

2-54 

15 

48 
2/64  2/40 
2/40 
18 

3/40 

2/<8 


15 
2/52 
2/52 
2/52 

8i 

2/44 


Piece  dyed. 
Worsted 


Worsted. 


1-30 

13's 

1-27 

2-52 

200-36 


9 

9'S 

6-48 

13'S 

2-48 

17 


Worsted. 


Worsted. 
Thread.. 


Worsted 


Worsted. 


Cotton  and  zephyr. 


2-48 
15 

2/48 

1/26 
12 
20 
12 

2/48 


Carded. 

Crossbred 

Vigognia 

Carded 

Worsted 

Carded 

Carded,  lined. 
Carded 

Lining 

Carded 


■Worsted. 

Worsted. 
Carded.. 


Worsted. 
Wool.... 


l^    Carded. 


18 
2/52 

2/52 

2/52 

8 

23 

2/44 


Worsted. 


Worsted. 

do... 

Carded. . 


Carded 

Worsted  and  woolen. 


Worsted. 


Silk  thread. 
Cheviot."!! 


57 
C5 


132 
45 
57 

118 
55 
49 
66 
49 
52 
G6 
55 
57 
56 
56 
56 
56 

117 
49 
37 
31 

47 

99 


33 
44 


44 

62 
62 
62 


45 
C^ 
44 
55 
5G 
56 
49 
44 
44 
44 
33 
44 
36 

4 
33 

4 
44 
28 
55 
49 
49 
49 
44 
49 
49 


Per 

cent 

of  loss. 


30 
40 
40 
40 
40 
40 
25 
40 
40 

50 
35 

40 

30 
40 

40 

40 
30 
20 


766 


BEPOKT  OF  TAKIFF  BOAKD  OK  SCHEDULE  K. 


Table  16. — Description  of  loom,  Jumrs,  rates  and  earnings  of  weavers j  description  of 
Germany— 


District. 


Lynbcrg 

Do 

Greiz 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

)o 

)o 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

I>o 

Frieschwitz-Aubachtal 

Greiz 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Frieschwitz-Aubachtal 

Greiz 

Mtilhausen 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Gera 

Do 


b: 


Do. 


Griinberg 

Do 

Osterode 

Do 

Crimmitschaii. 

Do 

Do 


Do. 
Do. 


C3ard 
No. 


Looms. 


Hours,  rates,  and  earnings. 


136 
137 
139 
140 
141 
142 

143 
144 

145 
146 
147 
148 
149 
150 
151 
152 
153 
154 
155 
156 
157 
158 
161 
162 
163 
164 
165 
166 
167 
168 
169 
170 
171 
172 
173 
174 
176 
177 
178 
179 
180 
181 

182 

183 

184 
185 
186 
196 
198 
199 

200 

201 

Do ;..  202 

Do 204 

Do 205 

Do 208 

Do 210 

Do 214 

Do 215 

Do 216 

Mylau 218 

Do 219 

Do 220 

Do 221 

Bautzener  (Sachsen) 222 

Do 223 

Do 224 

Do 225 

Do 226 

Ebersbach  bei  GSppingen . !  229 

Lynberg !  230 

Greiz i  217 


Num- 
ber of 
looms 

at- 
tended. 


Single 

or 

double 

beam 

work. 


1 
1 
1 

1 

1 

1 
1 
1 

» 

1 

i 

1 
1 

2 
2 
2 
2 


1 
1 
1 
2 
1 
1 
1 
1 
1 
1 
1 
1 
1 
1 
1 
1 
1 
1 
1 
1-2 


Num- 
ber of 
shut- 
tles. 


1 

4 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

3 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

I 

1 

2 

2 

2 

2 

1 

I  4 

2 

2 
2 
fi 

6 
3 
3 
3 

3 

1 

3 
3 

2 
2 
4 


Num- 
ber of 
harness. 


6 
4 
4 

10 

6 


2 
.    8 

12 
4 

18 
6 
4 
i 
S 
4 

18 
6 
6 
7 
6 
3 
9 
5 
9 

26 
3 
6 

13 
8 
5 
5 
fi 
8 

13 
4 

10 
4 
4 
6 
4 
8 


8 

14 

4 

9 


Picks 

per 

minute. 


12 
18 

18 

4-8 

18 

18 

16 

16 

24 

20 

16 

12 

4 

3 

4 

4 

8 

18 

24 

8 

16 

8 

12 

3 


.1  2  aboYe,  2  below. 


Hours 
worked, 


72 
84 
100 
115 
115 
115 
115 
118 
116 
106 
105 
120 
120 
128 
123 


110 
110 
110 
116 
116 
135 
117 
130 
110 
110 
134 
120 
108 
120 
125 
112 
112 
114 
120 
112 


im 

KJO 


so 

80 

65 
64 
68 
58 


70 
70 


80 

72 

76 

85 

80 

76 

80 

120 

120 

120 

120 

76 

90 

80 

85 

82 

60 

87 

120 


16 
32 
40 
100 
56 
75 
56 
37 
56 
30 
50 
54 
23 
50 
50 
68 
50 
35 
30 
58 
78 
90 
45 
30 
50 
70 
58 
70 
56 
35 
58 
80 
52 
58 
45 
24 


25-30 


35 
30 
42 
28 
42 


28 


Piece 

price  per 

yard. 


Earnings 
per  hour. 


SO.  0204 
.0325 
.a302 
.0460 
.0208 
.0180 
.0282 
.0191 
.0169 
.0123 
.0191 
.0196 
.0121 
.0207 
.0244 
.0206 
.0419 
.0269 
.0195 
.0256 
.0279 
.0120 
.0163 
.0316 
.0185 
.0659 
.0170 
.0379 
.0550 
.0278 
.0185 
.0404 
.0322 
.0584 
.0449 
.0185 
.0147 
.0117 
.0104 
.0104 
.0155 
.0413 
.0195- 
.0238 
.0352 
.0435 
.0544 
.0783 
.0506 
.0671 
.0872 

.0872 

.0573 

.0651 
.0658 
.0668 


.0097 
.0430 
.0259 
.0097 
.0607 
.0595 
.0679 
.0627 
.0627 
.0371 
.0510 
.0391 


SO.  062,1 
.OG(J<> 
.1088 
.lOGft 
.0884 
.0580 
.1270 
.1210 
.0736 
.0470 
.0894 
.0828 
.0706 
.0942 
.1132 
.0714 
.1Q24 
.09.38 
.0794 
.1026 
.0842 
.0616 
.0820 
.0822 
.0856 
.1150 
.0726 
.1244 
.1138 
.0986 
.0770 
.1130 
.1450 
.1148 
.1200 
.0892 


.1009- 
.0841 


.1006 
.1095 
.0907 
.1122 
.0997 
.0572 
.0666 
.0762 
.0762 


.0892 
.0666 


i»  L*i  List  i  ca  j   L  a  bo  ra  tc  r , ' 

BBPOBT  OF  TAEIPT  BOARD  ON  SCHEDTTI^  ^•C<>lun,''blfti[vlrsit, 

doth  wovenj  and  efficiency  of  looms  in  woolen  and  worsted  mills  in  specified  mtHSiHts  ^rfe 
Continued. 


/ 


\ 


Description  of  cloth  woven. 


Picks 

per 

inch. 


} 


25 
41 
65 

130 
77 
66 
28 
52 
61 
41 
54 
68 
54 
65 
71 
81 
76 
62 
56 
69 
90 

127 
56 
99 
54 

118 
49 
60 

108 
83 
58 
97 
77 

135 
97 
6) 
53 
53 
69 
48 
15 
53 

21 

61 
51 
58 
46 
63 
60 
60 

71 
41 

58 

60 

61 

64 
132 

68 

62 

68 

48 
201 

55 

49 

61 

56 

61 

61 

61 

36 

53 
188 


Width 

in 
inches. 


56.0 
68.8 
66.7 
49.5 
46.3 
36.1 
45.2 
37.4 
35.4 
52.0 
36,0 
43.7 
38.9 


44.4 
43.7 
39.6 
68.8 
66.8 
58.8 
43.6 
53.9 
37.8 
35.5 
42.7 
40.3 
63.3 
63.8 
44.4 
60.2 
61.4 
42.5 
45.2 
45.2 


61. 

62. 

53. 

33. 

33.4 

29.4 

33.4 

58.6 

49.2 

59.1 

52.7 
60.9 
66.8 
92.4 


62.9 
66.7 

66.7 

80.7 

68.8 
66.7 
68.8 
62.9 
70.8 
66.9 
66.9 
70.8 
36.5 
50.3 
47.1 
50.3 
66.9 
68.4 
72.7 
66.9 
70.8 
62.9 
66.9 
45.2 


Num- 
ber of 
ends. 


1,620 
2,500 
4,936 
3,980 
3,520 


Warp. 


Ply  and 
count. 


Quality. 


Filling. 


1,620 
1,600 
4,100 
1,960 
4,440 
4,400 
2,560 
8,920 
4,440 
3,580 
5,080 


2,040 
3,200 
4,520 
2,320 


2,574 
14,880 
6,070 
5,340 
4,000 
6,500 
6,600 
6,280 
6,280 
3,920 
2,020 
2,230 


2,230 


3,230 
'  900- 
.1,200 
2,508 
2,600 
2,930 
3,825 
3,200 
3,750 
5,400 

6,400 

3,800 

3,400 
3,800 
3,800 
5,600 
6,500 
7,200 
5,200 
5,600 
2,240 
4,030 
3,720 
2,700 
4,080 
7,680 
8,000 
4,080 
8,000 
2,200 
3,900 
2,700 


42 
49 

2/78 
49/2/75 
2/80 
2/40 
46 
2/24 


2/96 

2/40 

78 

2/78 

46 

64 

2/40 

1/16 

2/86 

2/78 

49 

46 

2/86 

2/40 

2/78 

1/49 

650 

2/78 

78 

46 

2/96 

2/96 

2/78 

78 

(») 


Worsted,  cotton. 

Cotton 

Left  twist 


Thread. 
C.I.... 
Voile... 
Luster. 


English. 
Luster. . 
Thread - 


Ply  and 
count. 


24 

20 

50 

4/20 


}■ 


Worsted. 


Worsted. 

do... 

Cheviot.. 
Worsted. 
Thread.. 
Yam.... 


Thread 

English  luster. 
Worsted 


Silk.... 
Thread'. 


3a. 


Thread. 


Woolen 

Cotton 

do 

Hard  twist. 
Thread 


20 


(») 


11 
12 


200/100 
2/72 
20 
3/52 
2/52 
2/52 
2/52 
2/52 


49 


Wool 

Thread 

Camel's  hair. 


32 
86 
32 
52 

2/80 
32 
52 

1/18 
33 
40 
25 
42 
48 
78 
30 
B/24 
18 
40 
48 
78 
52 
78 
40 
40 
17J 

2/70 

"A 

40 
70 
49 
33 
32 
33 


Quahty. 


Worsted . 
....do... 
Carded... 


Voile. 


Cotton . . 
English. 


Worsted. 
....do... 


24 

27 

50 

4/20 


110/65 
2/40 


23  and  38 


Lowen  carded  upper 

worsted. 
Worsted , 

Half  wool 


Worsted 

do 

Carded 

Worsted  and  thread. 

Worsted , 

.do 

Worsted  and  carded. 
Worsted 


Silk 

Thread 

Cheviot 

Thread 

Mixed  thread. 


Worsted 

Twisted  yam 

Cotton 


Cheviot. 
Worsted. 
Carded.. 
Voile.... 


B.I. 
aB. 


Woolen 

Wool 

.....do 

Hard  twist. 
Shoddy.... 


(9148  and  9158). 

Cotton 

Carded  wool... 
Camel's  hair... 


Carded. 


Production. 


Yards 
made. 


96/3 
49 
24 
2/52 
2/52 
2/52 
2/52 
2/52 


1/18 
86 


Worsted 

Half  wool 

Worsted 

Carded 

do 

Worsted 

Carded 

....do 

Worsted 

Worsted  and  carded , 


Silk. 


Cheviot. 
Worsted. 


Worsted 

do 

Worsted  wool. 
Cheviot 


49 

66 

72 

116 

119 

121 

126 

116 

122 

58 

117 

114 

73 

114 

116 

118 

61 

61 

61 

116 

117 

115 

113 

39 

116 

61 

124 

115 

58 

62 

121 

112 

117 

57 

60 

58 

110 

110 

110 

110 

62 

49 

55 

49 
70 
35 
30 
40 


44 


123 
63 
72 

159 
51 
52 
49 
49 
48-50 
50 
49 

118 


«  32/371. 

32080"— H.  Doc.  342,  62-2,  vol  2- 


>8/2m.  m. 


Per 

cent 
of  loss. 


...•\. 


25 
20 
30 
80 


20 


-10 


758 


BEPOBT  OF  TAEIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDUL.E  K. 


la  several  cases  the  cards  returned  were  from  weavers  working  on 
slow  looms,  usually  girls  or  older  women  whose  efficiency  was  not  up 
to  the  standard.  These  weavers  were  paid  a  minimum  wage  for  a 
week  of  58  hours  and  a  bonus  based  on  the  number  of  yards  produced. 
All  worked  on  single  looms. 


Card 

number. 

Loom. 

Earnings. 

Desorlptioo  of  doth. 

Number 

District. 

Picks  per 
minute. 

Per  yard. 

Per  hour. 

Picks  per 
inch. 

Number 
of  ends. 

ol  yarda 
produced. 

Eschwege 

187 
188 
189 
190 
191 
193 
193 
194 
101 

60 
67 
63 
61 
60 
60 
60 

i0.0168 
.0161 
.0336 
.0318 
.0200 
.0180 
.0193 
.0189 
.0168 

10.0447 
.0322 
.0172 
.0443 
.0472 
.0486 
.0439 
.0455 
.0368 

41 
36 
43 
51 
36 

as 

29 
43 

154 

Do.. 

2,480 
3,020 
3,040 
2,480 
2,320 
2,300 
2,600 
2,760 

116 

116 
118 
137 
157 
132 
140 
127 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Do 

58 

The  actual  earnings  of  weavers  at  these  piece  rates  would  not  be  so 
divergent  as  the  rates  themselves,  for  the  reasons,  already  stated, 
that  the  lower  rates  are  for  two-loom  work  and  on  fabrics  that  permit 
of  large  outpuii. 

On  actual  earnings  for  weavers  a  mass  of  data  were  secured  which 
it  has  been  impossible  to  tabulate  or  present  from  lack  of  time  to 
prepare  it.  Some  idea  of  eammgs  may  be  gleaned,  however,  from 
the  following  transcript  of  the  weavers'  pay  roll  for  July,  1911,  of  an 
establishment  producmg  the  finer  grades  of  cloth  imported  from  Ger- 
many. The  table  shows  the  hours  worked  and  total  pay  and  rate  of 
earnmgs  perhour  for  eachindividual  weaver  in  the  plant.  These  weavers 
were  all  men.  The  average  for  all  was  10.2  cents  per  hour.  They 
worked  10  hours  a  day.  The  establishment  has  both  one-loom  and 
two-loom  rates  on  the  same  cloths,  has  two-loom  and  one-loom  work, 
and  operates  slow  and  fast  looms,  using  all  weavers  indiscriminately 
upon  all  these  types  of  work.  A  more  significant  pay  roll  could  not 
have  been  selected  in  Germany. 

Table  17.— Hours,  earnings  perhour,  OTid  total  earnings  o/weavers  andforemen  of  weavers. 


Houia. 


Earnings 
perhour. 


■wgrm  AWWUM 
W  Mt:A  V  Ju  JDmDI* 

280 

260 

260 

230 

230 

235 

225 

260 

260 

260 

235 

260 

260 

260 

260 

260 

260 

225 

260 

260 

260 


Total 
earnings. 


to.  1005 
.1063 
.0878 
.0690 
.1238 
.1157 
.1212 
.1131 
.1081 
.1149 
.1199 
.1222 
.1093 
.1275 
.1139 
.1121 
.  1229 
.1067 
.1145 
.1084 
.1205 


126.13 
28.16 
22.84 
13.57 
28.48 
27.18 
27.27 
29.41 
28.11 
30. 88 
28.10 
31.77 
28.42 
33.15 
29.61 
29.14 
31.95 
24.00 
29.78 
28.20 
31.33 


Hoim. 


Earnings, 
per  hour. 


WXAVXRS— continued. 


260. 

225. 
260. 
280. 
260. 
260. 
250. 
260. 
250. 
260. 
260. 
260. 
260. 
260. 
260. 
260. 
220. 
30. 
260. 
130. 
260. 


10.0703 
.0625 
.0953 
.1142 
.0939 
.1116 
.1876 
.1000 
.0839 
.0705 
.1028 
.1340 
.0972 
.1064 
.0954 
.1021 
.0918 
.0952 
.0983 
.0976 
.0033 


Total 
earnings. 


$18.28 
18.57 
24.  T7 
31.97 
24.41 
29.01 
46.91 
26.01 
20.98 
18.34 
26.73 
34.85 
25.27 
27.67 
24.80 
26.54 
30.19 
2.88 
25.6S 
12.01 
24.23 


i 


BEPOET  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDX7LE   K. 


759 


Table  17. — Hours,  earnings  per  hour,  and  total  earnings  of  weavers  and  foremen  of 

weavers — Continued . 


Hours. 


Earnings 
perhour. 


WEAVERS— continued. 


2C0. 

195. 

2C0. 

2G0. 

2G0. 

140. 

260. 

260. 

260. 

200. 

260. 

280. 

2C0. 

320. 

100. 

195. 

2G0. 

260. 

2G0. 

220. 

260. 

250. 

260. 

200. 

255. 

260. 

260. 

240. 

260. 

140. 

215. 

200. 

2G0. 

260. 

260. 

200. 

255. 

260.. 

255.. 

200.. 

200.. 

260.. 

260.. 

260.. 

260.. 


Total 
earnings. 


•0.0975 
.0947 
.1100 
.1155 
.0872 
.1107 
.1129 
.1186 
.1242 
.0880 
.0912 
.1206 
.0984 
.1195 
.1319 
.0859 
.0939 
.0923 
.0863 
.0983 
.0916 
.1021 
.0881 
.0950 
.0770 
.0699 
.0748 
.0799 
.0561 
.0913 
.0470 
.0802 
.0753 
.0592 
.1008 
.1043 
.1001 
.1187 
.1103 
.0721 
.0993 
.0848 
.1015 
.0943 
.1167 


S25.34 
18.46 
28.60 
30.02 
22.67 
15.49 
29.36 
30.84 
32.30 
22.89 
23.72 
33.78 
25.59 
38.25 
13.19 
16.76 
24.43 
24.00 
22.43 
21.63 
23.81 
25.52 
22.91 
24.70 
19.64 
18.17 
19.46 
19.17 
14.58 
12.79 
10.12 
20.84 
19.59 
15.40 
26.22 
27.11 
25.54 
30.85 
28.12 
18.75 
25.81 
22.04 
26.38 
24.51 
30.35 


Hours. 


WEAVERS— continued. 


260. 

260. 

260. 

260. 

200. 

260. 

240. 

260. 

250. 

260. 

260. 

250. 

260. 

135. 

260. 

160. 

260. 

120. 

240. 

200. 

100. 

70. 

260. 

260. 

260. 

260. 

260. 

260. 

60. 

200., 

2C0., 

240.. 

260.. 

260.. 

260.. 


Earnings, 
per  hour. 


FOREMEN  OF  WEAVING. 


10.0863 
.1203 
.1112 
.1004 
.1129 
.1225 
.0893 
.1143 
.1190 
.0858 
.1049 
.1107 
.1031 
.0954 
.1078 
.1127 
.1175 
.1077 
.0917 
.0947 
.1105 
.1286 
.1046 
.1383 
.1230 
.1050 
.1199 
.1238 
.0950 
.1273 
.1097 
.0786 
.0941 
.0868 
.1302 


Total 
earnings. 


260. 
260. 
260. 
260. 
260. 
260. 
200. 


$22.43 

31.27 

28.92 

26.10 

29.35 

31.84 

21.43 

29.73 

29.76 

22.30 

27.27 

27.68 

26.80 

12.88 

28.04 

18.03 

30.55 

12.92 

22.01 

24.62 

11.05 

9.00 

27.20 

35.95 

31.98 

27.30 

31.19 

32.18 

5.70 

33.09 

28.52 

18.86 

24.46 

22.56 

33.85 


.1602 

41.65 

.1007 

26.18 

.1098 

28.56 

.0952 

24.75 

.0952 

24.75 

.0952 

24.75 

.0952 

24.75 

Supolementary  to  the  above  transcript  of  a  monthly  pay  roll  from 
a  single  firm,  there  is  presented  below  in  Table  18  a  condensation 
of  the  wage  books  of  93  male  weavers  and  62  female  weavers  in 
Luckenwalde,  Germany,  once  the  center  for  men's  black  broadcloths, 
but  now  making  mostly  heavy  overcoatings,  the  women  weavers 
still  operating  looms  on  men's  broadcloth  or  clay  worsteds.  These 
pass  books  were  for  the  months  of  April,  May,  and  June,  1911,  and 
gave  the  total  hours  worked  and  wages  received  each  week;  these 
have  been  condensed  and  an  average  earning  per  hour  derived.  The 
total  hours  worked  in  the  three  months  have  been  preserved  as 
indicative  of  the  steadiness  of  the  employee;  the  age  of  flbe  operative 
in  each  case  was  preserved.  The  selection  was  made  solely  on  the 
basis  of  such  employees  m  the  town  as  had  preserved  their  pass  books 
regardless  of  the  establishment  in  which  they  were  employed  or  class 
of  goods  upon  which  they  worked,  except  that  they  must  be  weavpra 
of  woolen  or  worsted  cloth.  Luckenwalde  is  a  one-loom  town,  and 
practically  all  of  the  looms  are  of  the  slower  type;  that  is,  under 
90  picks  per  minute,  wliich  in  Germany  usually  means  75  to  80  pick 
looms.  These  93  male  and  62  female  weavers  may  be  reasonably 
accepted  as  typical  of  the  industry  in  that  locality. 


760 


BEPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


Table  18. — Wages  for  weavers  in  the  woolen  and  worsted  industry  at  Lueienwaldef  Ger^ 

many,  during  April,  May,  and  June,  1911. 


Ajffeu 


HAL£  WSATliltS. 


37.. 
43.. 
62.. 

27.. 

S3.. 

28.. 

40.. 

30.. 

33.. 

59.. 

56.. 

37.. 

61.. 

36.. 

42.. 

30.. 

26.. 

29.. 

44.. 

29.. 

23.. 

62.. 

58.- 

43.. 

45.. 

52.. 

41.. 

22.. 

30.. 

62.. 

28.. 

51.. 

34.. 

28.. 

25.. 

26.. 

6Q.. 

201. 

201. 

221. 

30.- 

37.. 

27.. 

55.. 

40.. 

33.. 

24-. 

45.. 

30.. 

61.. 

41.- 

20-. 

43- 

41.- 

26.- 

43.- 

40.. 

23.. 

35.. 

26-. 

54.. 

57.. 

37.. 

36.. 

41.- 

35.. 

22.. 

29.. 

35.- 

21.. 

49.- 

39.. 

32.. 

19.. 

30.. 

25.. 

46.. 

40.. 


Total 

liours 

worked. 


Total 

Bate  per 

wages. 

hoar. 

S64.23 

10.006 

94.54 

.127 

74.64 

.006 

73.75 

.106 

78.41 

.109 

68.94 

.103 

81.89 

.105 

88.46 

.13 

76.83 

.106 

81.61 

.11 

68.03 

.092 

62.45 

.064 

72.67 

.115 

88.83 

.122 

93.11 

.125 

73.43 

.095 

81.96 

.108 

90.82 

.114 

60.29 

.090 

74.28 

.102 

93.91 

.129 

94.64 

.127 

68.83 

.091 

47.06 

.060 

72.61 

.093 

91.19 

.118 

80.28 

.103 

90.96 

.125 

94.00 

.126 

100.97 

.132 

63.28 

,    .085 

102.22 

.149 

73.05 

.106 

79.6«i 

.106 

86.28 

.119 

68.24 

.092 

73.81 

.115 

56.19 

.080 

68.06 

.087 

63.61 

.061 

5.00 

.063 

58.48 

.077 

79.84 

.111 

62.36 

.060 

46.84 

.078 

79.50 

.102 

67.30 

.089 

77.84 

.103 

62.06 

.090 

67.93 

.092 

50.08 

.066 

76.19 

.104 

67.78 

.093 

52.48 

.068 

63.15 

.091 

69.41 

.095 

74.18 

.098 

73.52 

.095 

81.  .34 

.108 

73.96 

.104 

58.09 

.075 

53.55 

.081 

57.88 

.081 

84.28 

.110 

64.84 

.090 

78.87 

.107 

71.24 

.099 

76.11 

.098 

69.05 

.100 

79.% 

.116 

70.10 

.090 

54.38 

.070 

80.19 

.103 

71.63 

.096 

53.49 

.074 

65.70 

.104 

59.02 

.076 

66.48 

.086 

67.54 

.069 

j9k..,^|C!* 


MALE  "WEAVERa— 

ooatinued. 

39 

42 

39 

22 

58 

29 

60 

39 

42 

52 

60 


32 

42 

53 

FEMALE  WEAVEHS. 

18 

51 

57 


45. 
22. 
27. 
40. 
25. 
23. 
41. 
22. 
25. 
25. 
21. 
44. 
23. 
22. 
29. 
36. 
61. 
40. 
46. 
24. 
19. 
18. 
21. 
21. 
22- 
22. 
23. 
23. 
24. 
24. 
24. 
25. 
26. 
28. 
28. 
30. 
31. 
31. 
32. 
32. 
32. 
33. 
37. 
39. 
39. 
42. 
43. 
43. 
43. 
43. 
44. 
46. 
47. 
48. 
49. 
51. 
55. 
57. 


Total 

hours. 

worked. 


549 

663f 

66a; 

721u 

676; 

626 

620} 

664 

6741 

7211 

606 

663 

691 

7214 

655i 

696 

7211 

666 

6474 

721| 

486 

476 

647| 

518| 

457 

653} 

648 

607f 

721i 

637 

624 

333 

556! 


Total 
wages. 


t75.89 
67.61 
79. 00 
56.66 
52.14 
68.31 
76.16 
72.12 
77.87 
64.12 
44.64 
71.41 
73.30 
45.92 

53.54 
41.89 
46.31 
49.06 
65.38 
57.79 
30.21 
47.93 
62.82 
49.47 
52.49 
38.85 
48.16 
40.75 
50.38 
49.39 
48.15 
57.25 
52.51 
45.93 
50.30 
57.32 
57.17 
61.42 
63.73 
57.57 
44  06 
43.15 
45.30 
43.10 
45i64 
4L07 
5&14 
2a  33 
2&02 
37.66 
2a  83 
2a  37 
3a  67 
3a  30 
3a46 
4L60 
3&26 
44  04 
1&47 
3Z55 

42  32 
37.24 
4a  19 
3a  41 
4&65 
37.72 
4315 
45.86 

43  94 

44  31 
34  88 
44  78 
4d24 
36  92 
4&60 
43.77 
35.42 


Rate  per 
hour. 


10.100 
.067 
.104 
.061 
.070 
.088 
.100 
.095 
.101 
.087 
.070 
.095 
.097 
.067 

.075 
.078 
.067 
.075 
.093 
.082 
.057 
.064 
.005 
.075 
.065 
.051 
.073 
.075 
.075 
.075 
.067 
.086 
.083 
.072 
.075 
.085 
.079 
.115 
.093 
.083 
.061 
.066 
.065 
.060 
.069 
.063 
.081 
.058 
.061 
.058 
.058 
.064 
.061 
.061 
.065 
.058 
.a57 
.071 
.049 
.059 
.060 
.061 
.058 
.067 
.069 
.055 
.062 
.066 
.068 
.066 
.061 
.062 
.065 
.058 
.064 
.064 
.070 


» Sample  weaver.  ^^ 

Aveca^  hourly  rate  tor  male  weavers,  t0.0977.   Average  hourly  rate  tor  female  weavers,  10.0694. 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


761 


So  far,  then,  as  concerns  the  actual  earnings  of  German  weavers, 
aside  from  the  rate  per  yard,  it  is  very  clear  that  the  average  for 
men  is  between  9  and  11  cents  per  hour  of  actual  time  worked. 
While  it  is  not  uncommon  for  a  weaver  to  earn  $1.25  or  $1.30,  and 
while  earnings  of  $1.50  or  even  $1.75  are  not  unknown  in  rare  indi- 
vidual cases,  yet  95  cents  to  $1.10  is  the  usual  earnings  per  day  for 
German  male  weavers  and  70  cents  to  80  cents  for  women. 

WOOLEN    AND    WORSTED    WEAVERS*    WAGE    SCALES    IN    FRANCE. 

Of  the  French  weaving  data  secured  by  the  board,  so  much  as 
could  be  made  available  m  the  limited  time  is  here  presented. 

Table  1^.— Woolen  and  worsted  weavers^  rates  on  specified  women's  dress  goods,  Beauvois- 

Fontaine,  France,  under  the  two-loom  system. 


Cloth. 


1.  "Sateen  weave"  of  carded  woolen 

yarn,  undyed 

2.  Carded  woolen  "prunelle,"  undyed. 

3.  Woolen  broadcloth 

"Sateen  weave"  of  carded  woolen 

yam,  undyed. 


4. 


6.  Plain  weave  "taffetas"  with  sillc 
warp  and  botany  weft,  undyed. . . 

6.  Armure  weave    of    2-piy    carded 

woolen  yam,  dyed 

7.  Striped  light  cashmere 

8.  Light  cashmere,  imdyed  yam 

9.  Light^striped  cashmere,  dyed  yam. . 

10.  Light  black  and  white  checkered 

cashmere 

11.  Light  striped  cashmere,  black  and 

white  yam 

12.  Light  white  cashmere 

13.  Light  striped  black  and  white  cash- 

mere with  "  vigoureux  "  yarn  i  . . . 

14.  Light  gray  and  white  cashmere  con- 

tainme  2-ply  mercerized  cotton. . . 

15.  Light  striped  woolen  goods  of  2  colors 

16.  Light  striped  cashmere,  black  and 

white 


Width. 


45 
53 
61 

48 

43 

60 
65 
44 
45 

48 

49 
50 

65 

47 
43 

65 


Total 
warp 
ends. 


3,600 
2,760 
3,800 

3,850 

3,860 

6,310 
5,475 
4,260 
3,660 

4,060 

4,500 
4,260 

4,174 

3,160 
4,030 

6,475 


Picks 

per 

inch. 


45 
50 
56 

45 

67 

112 
72 
82 
69 

76 

79 
70 

62 

61 
68 

69 


Warp 
beams. 


Weavers*  rate— 


Per  1,000 
picks. 


Centimes. 
4.8 
6.0 
6.0 

fi.0 

4.5 

8.5 
6.5 
3.0 
4.0 

5.0 

4.0 

4.0 

6.5 

5.5 
5.6 

6.5 


Per 
yard. 


SO.  0150 
.0174 
.0233 

.0156 

.0178 

.0661 
.0325 
.0171 
.0192 

.0264 

.0220 
.0195 

.0235 

.0233 
.0260 

.0312 


Weavers* 

daily 
earnings. 


SO.  9264 
.8685 
.9264 

.8878 

.7817 

.7527 
.7759 
.9418 

.6755 

.7720 
.7720 

.6273 

.8955 
.7431 

.7527 


1 A  twisted  yam  of  2  threads,  one  cotton  and  one  woolen,  of  different  colors. 

A  scale  of  prices  which  commission  weavers  charge  manufacturers 
was  secured,  together  with  the  percentage  of  that  rate  which  these 
middle  men  pay  the  actual  weaver.  That  is  to  say,  there  are  a  nifm- 
ber  of  persons  in  France  who  own  or  rent  a  few  looms;  they  take  the 
yam  from  merchants  or  manufacturers  and  return  to  them  the  cloth 
woven  in  the  raw.  Since  there  are  pubhc  finishing  and  dyeing  estab- 
lishments, this  raw  weave  can  be  turned  over  to  them  for  finishing. 
It  thus  happens  that  many  so-called  manufacturers  of  cloths  own  no 
machinery  at  all;  they  buy  yarn  as  merchants,  deliver  it  to  commis- 
sion weavers,  then  deliver  the  raw  weave  to  finishing  estabUshments, 
and  receive  back  the  finished  fabrics,  which  they  sell.  The  process 
may  even  begin  with  the  raw  wool  in  the  grease,  as  there  are  public 
scouring  establishments  and  job  spinning  mills. 

The  following  scale,  Table  20,  then,  is  primarily  a  jobbers'  scale. 
The  rate  per  yard  charged  by  the  jobber  is  given  on  cloth  of  given 
picks,  and  to  this  is  added  a  column  showing  the  amount  per  yard 
paid  the  actual  weaver.  The  rates  are  based  on  a  one-loom  system 
of  work  and  are  only  a  shade  below  the  rates  paid  for  such  work  in 
regular  cloth-manufacturing  establishments. 


762 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


763 


Table  20. — Scale  established  between  the  association  of  contract  weavers  of  cloths  and  th§ 
textile  trade  union  of  Lavelanet,  Ariege^  and  environs,  France  {one-loom  system). 


V 


f^ommlftsJofl  or  wmtrjwt.  rain. 

Rate  paid 
to  actual 
weavers. 

Picks  per 
centimeter. 

Picks  per 
inch. 

Rate  per 

"rang"  (2.66 
meters)  in 
oentimes. 

Rate  per 

yard  Tin 

oente). 

8 

9 

10 

11 

12 
13 
U 
W 
li 
17 
18 
19 
20 

20.32 
22.84 
25.40 
27.92 
30.48 
33.00 
35.66 
38.08 
40.64 
43.16 
45.72 
48.24 
50.80 

70 

75 

80 

85 

90 

95 

100 

106 

115 

123 

130 

138 

145 

4.644 
4.976 
5.308 
5.639 
5.971 
5.303 
6.635 
7.165 
7.630 
8.161 
8.625 
9.156 
9.620 

1.8576 
1.9904 
2.1232 
2-2556 
2.3884 
2.1212 
2.6540 
2.8660 
3.0520 
3.2644 
3.4500 
3.6624 
3.8480 

1.  Above  20  picks  per  centimeter  (50.8  picks  per  inch)  the  rate  is  5 
centimes  (0.965  cent)  additional  per  pick  per  '^rang;"  that  is,  0.3317 
cent  additional  per  pick  per  yam. 

2.  Striped  or  checked  goods  woven  with  2  shuttles  "odd'*  or 
"even,"  or  with  3  shuttles ''even,"  up  to  16  harnesses  are  subject  to 
the  above  scale. 

3.  For  goods  woven  with  3  shuttles  "odd"  and  4  shuttles  "even" 
the  rate  is  5  centimes  per  "rang,"  or  0.3317  cent  per  yard,  extra. 

4.  Goods  with  4  shuttles  "odd,"  10  centimes  per  "rang,"  or  0.6634 
cent  per  yard,  extra. 

5.  Goods  woven  with  16  to  19  shafts,  5  centimes  per  "rang,"  or 
0.3317  cent  per  yard,  extra. 

6.  Goods  woven  with  20  to  24  shafts,  15  centimes  per  "rang,"  or 
0.9951  cent  per  yard,  extra. 

For  woolen  trouserings,  pattern  woven,  and  for  trouserings  of  cot- 
ton warp  and  carded  woolen  filling,  the  rate  per  "rang"  of  the  fabric 
is  5  centimes  per  pick  per  centimeter,  as  foUows: 


Commission  or  contract  rate. 

Rate  paid 
to  actual 
weavers. 

Pick.s  per 
oeutiiiieter. 

Picks  per 
indi. 

Rate  per 

"rang"  (2.66 

meters)  (in 

centinifis). 

Rate  per 

yard  (in 

cents). 

8 
9 
10 
11 
12 
13 
14 
15 
16 
17 
IS 
19 
20 
21 
22 
U 
M 
25 
26 
27 
28 

m 

30 

20.32 
22.84 
25.40 
27.92 
30.48 
33.00 
35.56 
38.08 
40.64 
43.16 
45.72 
48.24 
50.80 
53.32 
55.88 
58.40 
60.96 
63.48 
66.04 
68.56 
71.12 
73.64 
76.20 

40 

45 

50 

55 

60 

65 

70 

75 

80 

85 

90 

95 

100 

105 

110 

115 

120 

125 

130 

135 

140 

145 

150 

2.654 
2.986 
3.317 
3.649 
3.981 
4.313 
4.644 
4.976 
5.308 
5.639 
5.971 
6.303 
6.635 
6.966 
7.298 
7.630 
7.962 
8.293 
8.625 
8.957 
9.288 
9.620 
9.952 

1.0616 
1.1944 
1.3268 
1.4596 
1.5924 
1.7252 
1.8576 
1.9904 
2.1232 
2.2556 
2.3884 
2.5212 
2.6540 
2.7864 
2.9192 
3.0520 
3.1848 
3.3172 
3.4500 
3.5828 
3. 7152 
3.8480 
3.9808 

I 

I 


llil 


1.  When  these  goods  contain  imitation  silk  threads,  the  rate  is 
10  centimes  (1.93  cents)  higher  per  ''rang,"  or  0.64  cent  per  yard. 
For  two-faced  goods  and  goods  woven  of  exceptionally  delicate  or 
easily  breakable  yarns  the  same  extra  rate  is  paid. 

2.  Fabrics  that  occasion  very  frequent  stops  of  the  loom  shall  be 
paid  for  at  a  daily  rate  of  3.50  francs  (67.55  cents). 

3.  Operatives,  who  for  lack  of  material  are  obliged  to  wait  more  than 
one  day,  shall  receive  an  indemnity  of  3  francs  (57.9  cents)  per  day. 

4.  All  pieces  of  goods  that  do  not  exceed  10  ''rangs"  (26.6  meters, 
or  29  yards)  shall  be  subject  to  the  scale  for  sample  weaving. 

5.  Tying-in  shall  be  paid  for  by  the  owner  of  the  looms  at  the  rate 
of  30  centimes  (5.79  cents)  per  1,000  ends. 

Drawing-in  (reedmg) :  Up  to  12  shafts,  15  centimes  (2.895  cents) 
per  100  ends,  including  reed;  13  to  24  shafts,  17^  centimes  (3.375 
cents,  per  10()  ends,  including  reed. 

Drawing  in  of  a  single  reed,  1  franc  (19.3  cents). 

These  drawing-in  rates  shall  be  paid  to  the  operatives. 

The  same  scale  applies  to  samples  as  for  full  pieces,  with  an  addi- 
tional 20  centimes  (3.86  cents)  per  "rang." 

Tying-in  for  samples,  50  centimes  (9.65  cents)  per  1,000  ends,  pay- 
able to  the  operative.  ,        *  ,   .    . 

The  method  of  arriving  at  the  weavers'  rate  on  a  given  fabric  m 
France  is  somewhat  like  that  followed  in  the  United  States,  except 
that  the  picks  per  quarter  inch  is  used  in  France  instead  of  picks  per 
inch  as  with  us.  . 

The  system  of  paj-mg  by  the  1,000  picks  prevails  in  some  districts, 
and  the  plan  is  gaining  in  popularitv.  .     i     .  , 

The  following  Tourcoing  scale  is,  however,  on  the  quarter-mch  pick 

In  the  United  States,  wherever  the  "mills  per  pick  per  inch  per 
yard"  system  is  in  vogue,  the  yardage  rate  would  be  ascertained  as 

foUows: 

If  the  rate  is  1.5  mills  per  pick  inch  and  the  yardage  rate  on  a 
cloth  woven  60  picks  to  the  inch  is  required,  multiply  the  rate  in  mills 
by  the  picks  in  an  inch  and  the  result  is  the  rate  per  yard  on  the 

loom. 

If  an  estabUshment  has  a  1.5-mill  rate,  a  60-pick  cloth  would  pay 
9  cents  a  yard.  In  France  the  rate  is  in  centimes  per  pick  per  quarter 
of  a  French  inch,  and  the  result  is  the  weavers'  rate  per  meter  on  the 
loom.  The  French  inch  is  somewhat  longer  than  our  inch — i.  e.,  our 
inch  is  2.54  centimeters  in  the  metric  system;  the  French  inch  is  2.77. 

The  following  scale,  then,  is  to  be  read  in  this  manner:  Take  any 
men's  worsted  cloth  that  comes  under  the  first  category,  multiply 
the  number  of  picks  in  a  quarter  of  a  French  inch  by  0.75  centime, 
and  the  result  is  the  price  paid  the  weaver  per  meter  of  woven  cloth: 

WEAVING   RATES   OF   ESTABLISHMENT   B  (TOURCOING,  FRANCE). 

[Picks  per  quarter-inch  rates  .J 
(French  inch.) 

I.  Two-loom  system  (80  to  100  picks  per  minute).— Ken's  goods,  worsted  filling, 
undyed,  0.75  centime:  men's  goods,  pattern  woven,  with  2-ply  No.  11  carded  woolen 
yam,  dyed,  0.80  centime;  women's  dress  goods,  cashmere  (2  by  2)  weave,  0.70  cen- 
time; small  patterned  weave  (annure)  of  fancy  warp-rib  character,  0.75  centime; 
"Pnmelle"  (2  by  1  twill)  with  carded  woolen  filling,  0.75  centime;  goods  of  mixed 


764 


EEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDXTIiB  K. 


worsted  filling,  0.77  centime  (the  above  rates  applv  when  6  ehafta  are  iiaedj  when  12 
are  used  the  rate  is  increased  0.02  centime,  except  lor  No.  2);  men's  wear  with  No.  10 
carded  woolen  filHng  and  not  over  12  shafts,  0.83  centime;  men's  wear  with  No.  12 
carded  woolen  filling,  0.77  centime. 

II.  Two-loom  system  {over  100  picks  j>er  minute,  usually  116  to  iiO).— Men's  goods, 
worsted  filling,  natural  yam,  0.67  centime;  men's  goods,  pattern  woven,  with  2-ply 
No.  11  carded  woolen  yam,  dyed,  0.80  centime;  women's  dress  goods,  cashmere 
(2  by  2)  weave,  0.62  centime;  small  patterned  weave  (armure)  of  fancy  warp-rib  char- 
acter, 0.67  centime;  "Pmnelle"  (2  by  1  twill),  with  carded  woolen  filling  0.67  cen- 
time; goods  of  mixed  worsted  filling,  0.69  centime  (the  above  rates  apply  when  6 
shafts  are  used;  when  12  are  used  the  rate  is  increased  0.02  centime,  except  for  No.  21); 
men's  wear  with  No.  10  carded  woolen  filling  and  not  over  12  shafts,  0.83  centime; 
men's  wear  with  No.  12  carded  woolen  filling,  0.69  centime. 

III.  Goods  woven  on  one  Nuyt  loom  (up  to  32  «^a/te).— Cashmere  weave,  undyed 
yam,  1  centime;  small  pattemed  weave  (armure)  oi  fancy  warp  rib  character,  1.25 
centimes;  goods  of  No.  8  carded  woolen  yam,  1.25  centimes;  goods  of  No.  7  carded 
woolen  yam.  1.30  centimes;  goods  of  No.  6  carded  woolen  yam,  1.35  centimes;  goods 
of  No.  5  caraed  woolen  yam,  1.40  centimes. 

IV.  Goodi  woven  mth  mixed  yarns. ^—Cd^Btnnere  weave,  undyed  yams,  1.25  centimes; 
*'  armure  '*  weave  (small  pattemed  weave  of  fancy  warp-rib  character),  1.35  centimes; 
goods  of  carded  wool  No.  8, 1.45  centimes;  goods  of  carded  wool  No.  7,  1.55  centimes; 


centimes;  goods  of  carded  wool  No.  7  (12  shafts),  1.55  centimes;  goods  of  carded  wool 
No.  5  (12  shafts),  1.62  centimes;  goods  of  carded  wool  No.  4  (12  shafts),  1.66  centimes; 
goods  of  carded  wool  No.  3  (12  shafts),  1.70  centimes;  "Pick  and  Pick"  men's  goods, 
1.40  centimes;  "Pick  and  Pick  "  dress  goods,  1.35  centimes. 

VI.  For  men^s  and  women's  goods  on  Utrffe  looms.— Mea^B  goods  woven  with  4,  5, 
and  6  shafts,  0.67  centime;  goods  woven  of  mixed  yams,  0.69  centime;  goods  of  2-ply 
No.  11  worsted  filling,  0.80  centime;  goods  of  carded  woolen  yam  No.  10,  0.83  cen- 
time; dr^Ki  goods  woven  with  4  shafts  and  mixed  yams,  0.64  centmie;  dress  goods  woven 
with  4  shafts  and  undyed  yam,  0.62  centime;  linings,  (satin  de  Chine),  55  inches 
wide,  0.53  centime;  linings  (satin  de  Chine),  51  inches  wide,  0.50  centime. 

VII.  For  dress  goods  <m  small  Jooww.— Diagonal  weave  drees  goods,  4  shafts,  S-pl'y 
mixed  yams,  0.52  centime;  "Armure"  weave  (small-patterned  weave  of  fancy  warp- 
rib  character),  4  shafts,  3-ply  yam,  0.60  centime;  diagonal  weave  drees  goods,  4  shafts, 

""  weave,  4  shaft*,  3-ply  undyed  yam, 


VIII.  £xtra  allowances.— 1.  For  more  than  one  shuttle,  1  centime  extra  per  meter 
for  the  second,  and  an  additional  one-half  centime  for  each  further  shuttle.  2.  For 
each  extra  warp  beam,  one-half  centime  extra.  3.  For  goods  woven  with  13  to  20 
shafts,  one-half  centime  extra,  and  for  goods  woven  with  20  shafts  or  more,  1  centime 
extra.  4.  For  goods  having  6,000  to  8,000  warp  ends,  one-half  centime  extra  per 
meter,  and  for  goods  having  over  8,000  ends,  1  centime  extra.  5.  Sample  piecee  shall 
be  paid  for  at  the  rate  of  40  centimes  per  hour,  or  4  francs  ($0,772)  per  day. 

AUSTRIAN  weavers'    WAGE   SCALES. 

The  weavers*  wage  scales  of  a  number  of  Austrian  woolen  and 
worsted  mills  were  obtained,  and  are  condensed  in  Table  21. 

The  unit  of  pay  in  Austrian  mills  is  not  so  uniform  as  in  most 
countries.  Many  establishments  pay  by  the  1,000  picks,  as  do 
most  German  mills,  but  many,  again,  pay  by  the  day  or  hour.  In 
tabulating  such  scales  concisely  it  has  been  necessary  to  show  both 
systems  on  the  same  page,  ana  depend  upon  the  reader  to  carefully 
relate  the  unit  of  pay  with  the  rate  in  each  case,  since  tinae  was  not 
given  to  develop  more  satisfactory  method  of  presentation: 

1  Mixed  yams  are  spun  in  different  colors  or  of  difleremt  inateria]s,or  otoudst  of  different  colored  yams  oi 
tb»  same  material  twisted  together. 


KEPOHT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE   K. 


765 


Table  21.— Rates  of  pay  for  different  Unds  of  work  done  by  weavers  in  Austrian 

establishments. 


\ 


'I 


i\ 


Estab- 
lish- 
ment 
No. 


6 
7 
8 

9 

10 
11 

13 


14 

15 


16 

17 

18 
19 


20 


21 
22 


23 
24 


25 


98 


30 
31 
32 

33 

34 

35 


Time  work. 


Kinds  of  work  for  which  weavers  are  paid. 


Weaving  woolens 

When  waiting  for  materials 

Weaving  woolens 

Weaving  samples 

Weaving  woolens,  worsteds,  doeskins 

Weaving  samples 

Weaving  overooatings,  winter  coat  linings, 
vest  cloths. 

Weaving  woolens 

Weaving  military  cloths,  not  shoddies 

Weaving  woolens 

Weaving  samples 

Weaving  fine  spun  cloths 

Weaving  woolen  lodens 

Weaving  meltons  cheviots,  tricots,  lodens. . . 

When  loom  fljdng 

Weaving  half-wool  worsteds,  cheviots,  mel- 
ton trouserings. 

Weaving  piece  dyes  and  lodens 

Weaving  half-wool  worsteds  with  backing.. . 

Weaving  all- worsted  plain  piece  dyes 

Weaving  on  looms  mider  65  picks i)er  minate. 

When  loom  fixing 

When  waiting  for  materials 

When  loom  fixing 

Weaving  meltons  and  cheviots 

Weaving  samples 

When  loom  fixing 

Weaving  cheviots,  meltons,  lodens,  coatings, 

When  loom  fixing 

Weaving  samples 

When  loom  fixing 

Weaving  woolens 

Weaving  atlas,  eskimo,  twills,  cheviots 

Weaving  on  looms  under  65  picks  per  minute. 

When  loom  fixing 

Weaving  meltons,  tricots,  cheviots,  velours. . 

Weaving  on  60-pick  looms 

When  loom  fixmg. 

Weaving  meltons,  lodens  "  Knoten  " 

When  loom  fixing 

Weaving  summer  and  winter  goods  on  nar- 
row looms. 

Weaving  summer  and  winter  goods  on  broad 
looms. 

When  loom  fixing s... 

Weaving  woolens 

When  loom  fixing 

Weaving  customs  goods  with  worsted  warp. 

Weaving  fancy  and  plain  goods  with  worsted 
and  twist  warps. 

Weaving  goods  with  1-ply  woolen  warp 

Weaving  samples 

For  tieing-in,  single  beam  work 

For  tieing-in,  double  beam  work 

Weaving  with  up  to  25  harness  and  2/40  yam . 

Weaving  on  broad  looms,  aocording^to  warp. . 

Weaving  samples 

Tieing-in,  single  beam  work 

TIelng-in,  single  beam  work  on  sampler 

TIeing-in,  double  beam  work 

Tieing-in,  double  beam  work  on  samples 

Weaving  samples 

When  drawing  in 

When  tieing  in 

Weaving  with  bad  materials 

When  oiling  up  at  noon  hour 

Weaving  in  regular  season 

Weaving  in  slack  season 

Weaving  in  regular  season 

Weaving  in  slack  season,  Nov.  1  to  Apr.  30. . 
Weaving  gray  goods,  one  or  many  dyed  cloth. 
Weaving  gray  goods 


Hours 

per 

week. 


Unit  of 
pay. 


Week. 
Hour. 
Week. 
Hoiu-.. 
Week. 
Hour.. 
Week. 


..do.. 
..do.. 
..do., 
Hour.. 
Week. 


Hour.. 


Hour.. 
...do., 
.do.. 


Hour. 
..do.. 


Hour. 
..do.. 
..do.. 


Hour 


Hour. 


Hour 


Hate  per 
unit. 


84.06 
.061 

4.06 
.071 

4.26 
.071 

4.47 

4.47 
4.06 
4.06 
.071 
4.06 


.053 


.053-.055 
.053-.  055 
.053-.  057 


.053 
.053 


.053 
.057-061 
.057-.  061 


.053 


.053 


Hour 


Hour 


Week. 


260 
>63 


57 
67 
67 
57 


Week. 


.053 


.053 


.053 


4.13 


IWeek. 

Day... 
...do.. 
...do.. 

Hour.. 

Week. 
...do.. 
...do. . 
...do.. 


3.65 


2.44 

.162 
.264 
.609 

'?.» 

4.87 
5.28 
4.87 


Piecework. 


Unit  of 
pay. 


Picks. 


1,000 
l,oOO 


1,000 

1,000 
1,000 
1,000 
1,000 


1,000 


1,000 


1,000 
1,000 
1,000 


1,000 
1,000 


1,000 

"i,'666 

1,000 


Rate  per 
unit. 


80.018-10.024 
.02-.  026 


.023 

.023 

.024 

.019 

•.005 


.022-.024 


.022-.  026 


.02  -.023 

.01&-.024 

•.005 


.02 -.022 
•.002 


1,000 


1,000 
1,000 

1,000 


UOO 

1100 

1,000 

1,000 


UOO 
1100 
UOO 
UOO 


1,000 
1,000 


.018-.  03 

[62i-.626 

.026-.03 


.02  -.025 


.021-.  03 
.02 -.032 

.031-. 038 


.008 

.010 

.02 -.026 

.03  -.032 


.008 
.010 
.012 
.012 


.019-.  023 
.019-.  023 


1  Warp  ends.      *  Time-work.      »Fieoework.      <  Double.      tin  addition  to  base  rate  per  unit. 


766 


EEPOBT  OP  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


Table  21.~Rates  of  pay  for  different  kinds  of  work  dam  by  weavers  in    Austrian 

establuhments— Continued.  ^*^»f^ww 


£stal> 
lish- 

ment 
No. 


36 


Kinds  of  work  for  which  weavers  are  paid. 


Time  work. 


38 

40 


il 
13 


Weaving  flannels,  cheviots,  woolens,  lodens, 

uniforms. 
Weaving  plain  and  lancy  goods  with  backing. 
Males  weaving  on  woolens   and    custom 

cloths. 
Males  weaving  on  woolens  first  year  after  ai>- 

prenticeship.  *^ 

FMiales  weaving  on  woolens  on  power  looms. 

When  loom  fi xing 

When  waiting  for  materials. . . 

Whm  weaving  taUith  cloth  on  loom'76  inches" 

When  weaving  tallith  cloth  on  loom  under  75 
inches  wide. 


Hoots 

per 

week. 


Unit  of 
pay. 


53| 

53| 

55 
55 
55 
63 

63 


Day... 


Rate  per 
nnit. 


Piecework. 


to.  668 


Unit  of 

pay. 


Week. 
...do. . 

. .do. . 

..do.. 
...do.. 
...do.. 

...do.. 


5.68 

4.70 

3.25 
6.28 
5.28 
3.25 

3.45 


Pidu, 

1,000 


Rate  per 
unit. 


I0.018-.02 


Sixteen  establkhments  paid  for  the  weaving  of  their  regular  product 
upon  the  basis  of  1  000  picks  of  filling  varnToven;  IsS^s  paid  for 
regular  work  on  a  time  ba^.     For  all  classes  of  goods  woven  in  the 

ir.^A-f^^^''u  ^^^J'^^  P^^  ^'^??  P^^  ^d  not  faU  below  1.8  cents 
nor  did  It  nse  above  3.8  cents,  which  rate  was  reached  in  only  1  es- 
tabhshment  and  was  paid  for  weaving  with  1-ply  carded  wool  yam. 
An  average  of  the  highest  rates  reported  for  the  16  establishiients 

Tho  J.1nT«hli'9i  ^'^^^  ?&'  ^^  '^  ^^^^  significant  that  the  rates 
shown  in  Table  21  are  not  basic  wage  rates,  or  minimum  rates,  as  thev 
were  m.the  reports  for  the  GermL  mills',  from  which  ^b'a^s  the 
rates  paid  to  the  weaver  rise  according  to  mcreases  in  the  number  of 
f W«T^  ^''  ^^^  r"?^?  ^f  ^""^J  ^^  ^^  shuttles,  etc.  In  fact,  only 
ml!t  i^Vr"  ^^m  '''^J'''^  an  mcrease  over  these  rates  (establish- 
ments  13, 19,  and  20)  and  even  there  the  mcrease  in  the  rate  per  1  000 
picks  was  to  be  paid  only  on  less  than  65  picks  looms.  The  cloths 
on  which  these  rates  were  paid  were  summer  and  winter  wear:  plain 
and  fancy  woolens  and  half-woolen  worsteds,  piece  dyed  ancf  stock 
f/I,A  JT?"^  ""^  plam  and  mtncate  weave;  goods  with  a  backing:  and 
included  lodens  meltons  cheviots,  tricots,  atlas,  and  eskimol/oths: 
trouserings  coatings  and  up-to-date  suitings;  twills  and  velours 

in  the  15  estabhshments  paying  weavers  by  day  or  by  week  the 
iZ?  /^^^  ^I'^  for  weaving  reguTar  product  was  |3.25  per  week  or 
64  cents  per  day,  and  the  highest  rate  $5.68  per  week,  or  95  cents  per 
day,  was  paid  in  estabhshment  No.  40  to  weavers  who  had  completed 
one  year  alter  having  fimshed  their  apprenticeship.  An  average  rate 
was  $4.31  per  week,  or  72  cents  per  day.  Included  in  the  cloths 
IZTli^ZZl^^^-:^^ ^''?^^^^^      rj«^^^'  overcoatings,  doe- 


skins, winter  coatUnings,  vestdothrinr&il^^urdo'ti^rc^^^ 

_,  taUith  cloth,  and  up-to-date  suitings.    All 


lodem  umlorms,  flaimas  .axx^.u  .;iutii,  anu  up-io-aate  smtmgs.  AH 
01  the  8  estabhshments  which  reported  rates  for  weaving  samples  paid 
for  such  work  on  a  time  basis,  the  lowest  rate  paidTeing  equafto 
$2  46  ner  week  of  60  houra,  or  41  cents  per  day,  Ld  the  llghest  rate 
paid  being  $4.26  per  week,  or  71  cents  per  da^.  Twelve  estabhsh- 
ments paid  weavers  on  a  time  basis  for  loom  fi^g,  8  of  them  payinc^ 
5^  cents  per  hour,  and  the  other  4  paying  5.5,  577,  6.1,  or  9.6  dente 
per  hour,  respectively,  for  such  workl  •''=»'''  "«* 


BEPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


767 


One  establishment  paid  26.4  cents  per  day  for  tieing-in;  another 
paid  from  0.8  to  1  cent  per  100  threads,  and  a  third  paid  from  0.8  to 
1.2  cents  per  100  threads  on  single  and  double  beams  and  on  plain 
and  fancy  warps.  For  drawing-in  1  estabhshment  paid  16.2  cents 
per  day.  Three  estabhshments  paid  weavers  from  5.3  to  9.6  cents 
per  hour  for  waiting  for  materials,  and  1  paid  them  61  cents  per  day 
for  weaving  with  badly  running  yarns. 

WOOLEN  AND   WORSTED  WEAVERS'    WAGE  SCALES   IN  BELGIUM. 

Verviers  and  its  immediately  surrounding  towns  constitute  one  of 
the  principal  Belgian  centers  for  the  manufacture  of  woolens  and 
worsteds.  Formerly  a  carded  woolen  goods  center,  it  has  for  several 
years  taken  up  worsted  goods  until  now  the  worsted  mills  employ 
more  persons  than  does  the  carded  woolen  industry.  Commission 
weaving  is  quite  prevalent,  and  an  organization  of  commission 
weavers  has  formulated  a  scale  of  rates  to  be  charged  for  the  weaving 
of  the  various  kinds  of  goods  they  produce.  These  commission 
weavers  own  or  rent  a  few  looms  and  then  do  weaving  for  manu- 
facturers who  have  not  enough  weaving  caj)acity  of  their  own.  Thev 
are  jobbing  weavers  who  have  no  financial  interest  either  in  the  stock 
material  or  in  the  finished  product.  As  a  result  of  this  system  a  class 
of  so-called  manufacturers  has  arisen  who  do  not  own  any  mills  or 
looms  whatever,  but  simply  buy  yarn  as  raw  material,  turn  it  over  to 
these  jobbing  weavers,  and  receive  back  this  woven  cloth,  which  they 
turn  over  to  job  dyeing  and  finishing  establishments,  receiving  it 
again  from  them  as  finisned  cloth  which  they  sell. 

The  commission  weavers  of  tlie  above-mentioned  association  pay 
their  operatives,  or  the  actual  weavers  at  the  looms,  two-thirds  of  the 
price  cnarged  by  them  for  the  work. 

Weavers  throughout  this  region  are  paid  per  1,000  picks;  the  pre- 
vailing wage  scales  of  eight  establishments  m  this  region  were  obtamed 
by  the  Tariff  Board,  together  with  the  rates  agreed  upon  by  the 
organization  of  commission  weavers  as  the  minimum  wage  for  weavers 
in  the  employ  of  any  of  its  members.  These  scales  indicate  the  rate 
paid  per  1,000  picks  for  some  simple  variety  of  cloth  produced  in  the 
mill.  To  this  basic  rate  extra  allowances  are  added  for  weaving  more 
difficult  fabrics.  Thus,  in  most  of  the  mills  the  basic  rate  appUes  to 
the  weaving  of  undyed  worsted  yarns.  For  dyed  yarn  there  is  an 
extra  rate  of  from  1  to  3  centimes  (0.193  to  0.579  cents)  per  1,000 
picks.  For  woolen  yarn  there  is  often  an  extra  rate  of  2  or  3  centimes 
(0.386  to  0.579  cents)  per  1,000  picks.  It  is  customary  to  increase 
the  basic  rate  for  extra  warp  beams  beyond  the  first;  for  extra  shafts 
beyond  the  twelfth;  for  goods  with  an  unusually  small^  or  im- 
usually  large  number  of  picks  per  inch;  for  goods  woven  with  extra 
shuttles  above  two;  for  an  exceptionally  large  number  of  warp  ends; 
for  two  or  more  colors  in  the  warp ;  whenever  there  is  mohair,  cotton, 
or  silk  in  the  warp;  for  woolen  warp  face  or  woolen  filling;  for 
especially  heavy  goods,  or  for  other  complications  that  make  the 
work  of  the  weaver  slower  or  more  difficult.  The  general  significance 
of  the  extra  allowances,  and  the  difference  in  the  basic  rates,  is  indi- 
cated in  Table  22. 

In  this  table  the  first  line  gives  the  basic  rate  per  1,000  picks  in 
cents  and  decimals  of  a  cent;  as  for  instance,  group  A,  which  is  the 
group  of  commission  weavers,  pay  2.316  cents  per  1,000  picks  to  their 


768 


EEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDUM!  K. 


employees  for  weaving  the  basic-rate  cloth;  the  establishment  F  or 
group  represented  bv  that  schedule  payg  2.895  cents  per  1 ,000  picks. 
Only  one  other  establishment  pays  as  low  as  the  contract  weavers. 
The  other  items  in  the  tables,  whioh  are  simply  conditional  additions 
to  the  basic  rate,  are  believed  to  be  self  explanatory. 

Table  22. — Weaver^i  wages,  per  1,000  picks,  paid  in  worsted  and  woolen  mills,  at  Vet" 

viers,  Belgium. 

[In  9  establishmeuts  and  groups  of  establishments.] 


Wages,  rates,  and  esctra  allowances. 

Establishments  oi 

groups 

of  establishments. 

A. 

B. 

C. 

D. 

E. 

F. 

0. 

H. 

I. 

Basic  rates  for  worsteds 

Cents. 
2.316 

Cents. 
2.316 

Cents. 
2.509 

.193 

Cents. 
2.702 

Cents. 
2.702 

C^nts. 
2.895 

.193 

.193 

.386 

.579 

.772 
.193 
.386 
.579 
.772 
.965 
.386 
.193 
.386 
.193 
.386 

CefOs. 
2.934 

.386 

Cents. 
2.972 

.193 

Cents. 
3.088 

Extras- 
Goods  witli  nnder  40  picks  per 
incli 

Goods  with  80  to  100  piclES  per 
inch 

.193 
.386 
.386 

.193 
.386 
.579 

.386 
.579 
.772 

.386 
.386 
.386 
.579 

.193 

Goods  with  101  to  110  piclis 
per  inch 

.193 

Goods  with  111  to  140  picics 
per  inch 

.388 

Goods  with  141  to  180  piciis 
per  inch 

.579 

3  snuttles 

.193 
.386 
.679 
.772 
.965 

.193 

.193 
.386 
.579 
.772 
.966 

.386 
.386 
.772 

4  shuttles 

.193 
.386 
.579 
.772 
.965 
.193 
.386 
.193 

.193 
.386 
.579 

5  shuttles 

6  shuttles 

.193 

7  shuttles ^. . . 

.386 

Each  shuttle  thrown  by  hand. 
2  warp  beams 

.193 

.193 

.193 

.193 

.193 

.193 
.386 
.193 
.579 

.193 

3  warp  beam^ 

Single^piece  warps 

.193 

Half-piece  warps 

.579 
.579 
.579 
.772 

.193 

.386 
.193 

.579 

Woolen  filling 

.386 
.386 
.579 

.193 
.386 

.193 

.579 

Woolen  baclE  filling 

.193 
.579 

.193 
.193 

.193 

.193 

Woolen  warp  face 

.193 
.193 
.579 
.193 

.193 
.193 

Warps    containing    mohair, 

cotton,  or  sehappe 

Warps  of  woolen  and  worsted. 

.193 

.193 

Bad  material 

Yarn-d  ved  goods 

.579 

.579 

.193 

.579 

Dyed  worsteds  with  111  to  140 
picks  per  inch 

Goods  with  5,000  to 5,500  warp 
ends 

.193 
.386 
.579 
.772 

.193 

Goods  with  5,501  to  6,000  warp 
ends 

Goods  with  6,001  to6,500  warp 
ends 

Goods  with  6,501  to  7,000  warp 
ends 

13  to  18  shafts 

.193 
.193 
.386 
.386 
.579 
.7Ti 

.193 
.386 
.579 
.579 
.772 
.965 
.386 
.386 
.386 

19  to  24  shafts 

.193 
.386 
.386 
.579 

.193 
.386 
.386 
.579 
.772 
.579 

.386 

.193 
.193 
.193 
.386 

.386 
.386 
.579 
.579 
.772 

.193 
.193 
.193 
.386 
.386 

25  or  26  shafts 

27  or  28  shafts 

.386 

29to32shafts 

.386 

33  to  36  shafts 

.386 

2  colors  in  warp 

.679 
.772 
.386 

.772 

.772 

... 

8  colors  in  warp 

.193 

Undyed  cheviots 

Undyed  cheviots  with  woolen 
backing 

Overcoating  with  1-ply 

wnolen  fiUfng 

1.158 
.966 

.965 

OvercoatinK  with  S-nlv  fllline. 

**  Beavers  "naving  not  over  60 
picks  per  inch 

.965 

.966 

.772 

.386 
.386 

"Beavers"  having  61  to  75 
picks  per  inch 

"Beavers'*  having  over  76 
nicks  Der  inch ... 

"Sfttoen  w^ftve"  worsted  *? 

.386 

.579 
.965 

.386 

.886 

Dyed  woolens  with  less  than 
50  nicks  ner  inch. 

.96S 

Woolen  fabrics  not  otherwise 
snecffied 

.386 

Military  cloth.  .  . 

.772 

■'■'>"  'i!  t- 


BEPOBT  OP  TABIFF  BOABJJ  ON  SCHEDT7I;B  K. 


769 


Table  23. — Weavers^  rates  of  wages,  per  1,000  picks,  in  the  woolen  and  worsted  industry 

of  Verviers,  Belgium. 

{In  8  establishments  or  groups  of  establishments.] 


1 
2 
3 
4 
5 

6 

7 
8 
Q 

10 

11 
12 
13 

14 

15 

16 

17 

18 
19 

20 
21 
22 

23 
24 
25 
26 

27 


UNDYED  WORSTEDS  AND  CHEVIOTS. 

"  Sateen  weaves"  not  over  12  shafts  nor  over  100 
picks  per  inch,  nor  over  2  shuttles 

Sateen  weaves  not  over  12  shafts  nor  100  picks 
per  inch,  nor  2  shuttles,  with  carded  warp  face . . 

Plain  weaves  with  not  over  13  shafts  nor  over  90 
picks  per  inch,  nor  over  2  shuttles 

Plain  weaves  with  not  over  13  shafts  nor  over  2 
shuttles,  having  91  to  100  picks  per  inch 

" Three  by  one"  weaves  with  not  over  26  shafts, 
nor  more  than  100  picks  per  inch,  and  not  over 

2  shu  ttles 

"Three  by  one"  weaves  with  not  over  26  shafts, 
with  101  to  135  picks  per  inch,  and  not  over  2 
shuttles 

"  Three  by  one"  weaves  with  not  over  26  shafts, 
nor  more  than  100  picks  per  inch,  not  over  2 
shuttles,  and  with  woolen  warp  backing 

"Two  by  one"  weaves  with  not  over  18  shafts, 
nor  over  120  picks  per  inch,  nor  more  than  2 
shuttles 

"  Two  by  one"  weaves  with  not  over  18  shafts, 
nor  over  120  picks  per  inch,  nor  more  than  2 
buttles,  with  extra  beam  of  woolen  or  cotton 
warp 

"Two  by  one"  weaves  with  not  over  18  shafts, 
nor  over  120  picks  per  inch,  nor  more  than  2 
shuttles,  with  2  different  kmds  of  warp  on  a 
single  beam 

"Sateen  weaves"  with  woolen  flllmg,  and  not 
over  80  picks  per  inch,  nor  over  2  shuttles  — , . 

Worsteds  or  cheviots  with  not  over  16  shafts,  nor 
over  60  picks  per  inch,  nor  over  2  shuttles 

Worsteds  or  cheviots  with  not  over  16  shafts, 
with  61  to  70  picks  per  inch,  and  not  over  2 
shuttles 

Worsteds  or  cheviots  with  not  over  16  shafts,  nor 
over  2  shuttles,  and  containing  71  to  80  picks 
per  inch 

Worsteds  or  cheviots  with  not  over  16  shafts,  nor 
over  2  shuttles,  containing  not  over  60  picks 

Wper  inch,  with  woolen  warp  face  or  back 
orsteds  or  cheviots  with  not  over  16  shaftSj  con- 
taining not  over  60  picks  per  inch,  with  3 
shuttles 

Worsteds  or  cheviots  with  not  over  16  shaftSj  con- 
taining not  over  60  picks  per  inch,  with  4 
shuttles 

Worsteds  or  cheviots  with  not  over  16  shafts, 
with  5  shuttles,  and  not  over  60  picks  per  inch . . 

Worsteds  or  cheviots  with  not  over  16  shafts  nor 
over  60  picks  per  inch,  with  an  extra  warp  beam. 

DYED  WORSTEDS  AND  CHEVIOTS. 

Worsteds  or  cheviots  virith  not  over  16  shafts  nor 
over  60  picks  per  inch,  with  2  shuttles 

Worsteds  or  cheviots  with  not  over  16  shafts  with 
61  to  80  picks  per  inch,  and  2  shuttles 

Worsteds  or  cheviots  with  not  over  16  shafts  with 
not  over  60  picks  per  inch,  2  shuttles,  and  with 
woolen  weft  face  or  backing 

Worsteds  or  cheviots  with  not  over  16  shafts  nor 
over  60  picks  per  inch,  with  3  shuttles 

Worsteds  or  cheviots  with  not  over  16  shafts  nor 
over  60  picks  per  inch,  with  4  shuttles 

Worsteds  or  cheviots  with  not  over  16  shafts  nor 
over  60  picks  per  inch,  with  5  shuttles 

Worsteds  or  cheviots  with  not  over  16  shafts  nor 
over  80  picks  per  inch,  and  with  2  warp  befons 
and  2  shuttles 

Worsteds  or  cheviots  with  not  over  60  shafts  nor 
over  80  picks  per  inch,  and  with  2  warp  beams 
and  5  shuttles 


as. 

2.702 
2.895 
2.316 
2.509 

2.702 

2.702 

3.088 

2. 895 

3.088 

3.281 
3.088 
2.316 

2.509 

2.702 

2.895 

3.088 

3.281 
3.474 
2.509 


2.895 
3.088 

3.281 
3.088 
3.281 
3.474 

3.281 

4.246 


Cts. 
2.895 

2.895 


2.702 


3.088 


2.895 


3.088 


3.088 


3.281 


2.895 

3.281 

3.474 

3.667 
3.860 
2.895 

3.088 
3.281 

3.281 
3.281 
3.474 
3.667 

3.474 

3.860 


Cts 
2.895 

3.474 

2.895 

2.895 

3.088 

3.088 

3.281 

3.281 

3.281 

3.281 


2.896 

2.895 

2.895 

3.821 

3.474 

3.667 
3.860 
2.895 

3.088 
3.474 

3.474 
3.281 
3.474 
3.667 

3.667 


Cts. 
2.702 

2.895 

2.316 

2.509 

2.702 

2.702 

3.281 

2.895 

3.088 

3.281 
3.088 
2.316 

2.702 

2.702 

3.088 

3.281 

3.281 
3.667 
2.702 


3.088 
3.281 

3.474 


Cts. 
3.088 

3.281 

3.088 


3.667 


3.667 
3.667 

3.667 
3.667 
3.667 
3.667 

3.667 


Cts 
2.509 


2.895 


2.702 


2.702 


Cts. 
3.088 

3.088 

2.702 

2.702 

2.702 


3.281 

2.895 
2.895 
3.088 
3.281 
3.474 


Cts. 
2.895 

3.088 


3.088 


3.281 


3.281 


3.281 


3.474 


3.281 

3.474 

3.667 
3.860 
3.088 


3.281 


€.346 


770 


BEPORT  OF   TARIFF  BOARD   ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


Table  2Z.—Wmver§'  nOm  of  wages,  per  1,000  pidts,  in  the  woolen  md  worsted  industm 

of  Venners,  Belgium — Continued. 


28 
S9 
30 
31 

33 

33 

34 
35 


DT1I>  WOOLBUa. 

With  not  over  16  shafts  nor  more  than  fiO  picks 

Wper  inch,  nor  over  2  shuttles :. 
ith  not  over  16  shafts  nor  more  than  50  pIcIes 

per  inch,  with  3  shuttles . 

With  not  over  16  shafts  nor  more  than  50  picks 

Waer  inch,  with  4  shuttles 
ith  not  over  16  shafts  nor  more  than  50  picks* 
per  inch,  nor  more  than  2  shuttles,  woven  with 

all  worsted  fillmg 

With  not  over  16  shafts  nor  more  than  50  picks' 
per  inch,  nor  more  than  2  shuttles,  with  twisted 

warp  yam 

"Beayera"  having  not  more  than  60  picks  per' 

'*  Beavers'-'  having  from  hi  to  *70'  picks' pe'r'inch'. '.  *. 
"Beavers"  having  from  71  to  90  picks  per  inch. . . 


3.281 
3.474 
3.667 

3.068 

3.088 
3.281 


Cto. 
3.281 

3.474 

3.667 


Ct8. 

3.088 
3.281 

3.4741 


3.667 
3.474 
3.231 


Cte. 

3.281 

3.281 

3.4741 


CU. 


4.053 


CU. 


Ctt. 


3.474 
3.667 


4.053 
4.053 
4.053 


8 


3.667 


3.088 


3.088 


Ct». 
3.281 

3.281 

3.474 

3.281 

3.281 


In  Table  22,  column  A  applies  not  to  a  single  establishment,  as  do 
the  other  letters,   but   to  the   group  of  establishments   constitut- 
mg  the  Union  of  Weavers  on  Commission  (Union  des  Tisseurs  a 
I*  aeon).     It  will  be  noted  that  the  basic  rate  in  these  nme  establish- 
ments or  groups  of  establishments  ranges  from  12  to  16  centimes 
(2.316  cents  to  3.088  cents).    It  should  be  noted,  however,  that  the 
basic  rate  ^  not  necessarily  the  rate  paid  for  precisely  the  same  fabric, 
woven  under  precisely  the  same  conditions;  for  in  some  of  the  mills 
the  basic  rate  applies  to  a  more  comphcated  or  more  difficult  weave 
Ik^  ^-  ^*"^^-     ^  *^®  estabUshments  tabulated  under  A  and  B 
the  basic  rate  applies  to  a  plain  weave,  13  harness,  2  shuttle  fabric 
havmg  less  than  80  picks  per  inch.     In  estabhshment  C  it  appHes  to 
the  same  f  abnc  woven  with  any  number  of  harness  up  to  1 8.     In  estab- 
hshment D  it  apphes  to  women's  broadcloth  (woven  in  the  gray)  with 
3  shuttles  and  up  to  24  harness.     In  estabhshment  E  it  applies  to  sub- 
stantially the  same  goods,  woven  with  not  more  than  25harness.     In 
establishment  F  the  basic  rate  is  paid  for  fabrics  woven  with  18  har- 
ness and  havmg  not  over  80  picks  per  inch.     In  establishment  G 
the  basic  rate  apphes  to  goods  having  up  to  6,000  warp  ends,  requir- 
mg  up  to  24  harness  and  3  shuttles.     In  establishment  H  the  basic 
rate  goods  are  woven  with  3  shuttles  and  20  harness  on  fast  looms. 
In  estabhshment  I  it  is  difficult  to  tell,  from  the  wage  scale,  what  is 
the  nature  of  the  cloth  to  which  the  basic  rate  applies.    A  clue  to  the 
differences  in  the  rate  of  remuneration  for  weaving  substantially  the 
same  fabric  is  furnished  by  Table  23. 

Although  the  rates  differ  somewhat  from  mill  to  mill,  even  for  the 
same  kmd  of  cloth,  the  weavers  employed  in  the  milia  paying  the 
lower  rates  are  often  quite  as  well  off  in  the  matter  of  total  earnings  as 
those  m  the  mills  paj-uig  the  higher  rates.  This  is  due  to  (1)  the 
lower  rates  paid  by  mills  having  sjyeedier  looms;  the  slower  looms  at 
V  erviers  make  60  to  70  picks  per  minute,  while  the  faster  looms  make 
90  and  over.  (2)  In  some  of  the  mills  paymg  a  higher  rate  there  are 
longer  and  more  frequent  pauses  because  of  lack  of  material  or  cur- 
tailment of  the  work  day  because  of  insufficient  orders. 

It  should  be  noted  that  the  1-loom  system  now  predominates  in  the 
Verviers  region,  to  the  practical  exclusion  of  the  2-loom  system,  which 


REPORT  OP  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


771 


at  one  time  was  quite  extensively  employed.  The  opposition  of 
organized  labor  in  the  industry,  culminating  in  the  strike  of  1906, 
appears  to  be  largely  responsible  for  the  abandonment  of  the  2-loom 
system  here.  The  rates  indicated  in  the  above  tables  apply  uni- 
formly to  1-loom  work.  In  Ghent,  however,  another  important 
textile  center  of  Belgium,  the  2-loom  system  is  not  uncommon  for 
woolens  and  worsteds.  The  cheaper  grades  of  these  goods'  are  made 
mainly  at  Ghent,  and  the  rate  of  wages  paid  there  is  so  low,  compared 
with  Verviers,  that  despite  the  2rloom  system  the  average  earnings 
of  the  weaver  are  smaller  than  at  Verviers,  where  they  range  from 
4  to  6  francs  ($0,772  to  $1,158)  per  day  of  lOi  or  11  hours,  or  30 
francs  ($5.79)  per  week. 

A  separate  and  distinct  rate  is  generally  allowed  at  Verviers — as 
elsewhere — for  sample  weaving.  The  rate  paid  for  such  work  is 
usually  a  time  rate,  the  rate  bemg  generally  fixed  at  an  amount  that 
assures  the  weaver  a  weekly  or  daily  earning  of  at  least  the  average 
of  efficient  weavers  working  at  piece  rates.  The  wages  of  sample 
weavers  are  therefore  exceptionally  important,  because  they  indicate 
what  are  regarded  as  the  average  earnings  of  the  weaver.  At  Ver- 
viers several  of  the  woolen  and  worsted  mills  employ  a  combination 
of  time  wages  and  piece  wages  for  sample  weavers.  Several  mills 
pay  a  rate  of  4  francs  ($0,772)  in  lieu  of  the  basic  rate,  and  add  to  this 
the  same  allowance  for  extras.  The  Weavers  on  Commission  pay  a 
flat  rate  of  4  francs  ($0,772)  per  day  for  sample  weaving.  Another 
mill  pays  sample  weavers  a  basic  rate  of  4  francs  ($0,772)  per  day, 

I)lus  2  centimes  (0.386  cent)  per  1,000  picks  for  samples  over  6  meters 
ong;  3  centimes  (0.579  cent)  per  1,000  picks  for  samples  3  to  6 
meters  long;  and  6  centimes  (1.158  cents)  per  1,000  picks  for  samples 
not  over  3  meters  long.  In  another  mill  the  daily  rate  for  sample 
weaving  is  4  francs  ($0,772),  but  when  samples  are  dyed  in  the  yarn 
with  20  shafts  or  more,  the  sample  weaver  is  entitled  to  an  addi- 
tional rate  of  2  centimes  (0.386  cent)  per  1,000  picks  for  the  first 
sample. 

The  weaver  usually  ties  his  own  warp  ends,  the  rate  for  this  work 
being,  as  a  rule,  2  centimes  (0.386  cent)  per  100  ends.  One  estab- 
lishment, however,  pays  50  centimes  (9.650  cents)  for  warps  up  to 
4,000  ends,  and  1  franc  ($0,193)  for  warps  of  more  than  4,000  ends. 

weavers'  BA'mS   IN  FLEMISH   MILTJS. 

In  some  of  the  Flemish  weaving  mills  two  rates  are  paid;  one  for 
wide  looms  and  another  for  narrow  looms  that  run  somewhat  faster. 
The  usual  speed  of  the  wide  looms  is  90  to  95  picks  per  minute.  That 
of  the  narrow  looms  is  115  to  120  picks  per  minute.  The  rates  given 
in  the  above  tables  for  these  mills  in  Flanders  are  for  wide  looms. 
Two  of  these  looms  running  95  picks  per  minute  would  therefore 
make  a  theoretical  maximum  of  125,400  picks  per  day  of  11  hours. 
But  because  of  stops  due  to  the  inferior  quahty  of  the  material,  to  the 
2-loom  system,  and  to  other  circumstances,  the  average  weaver  work- 
ing on  faorics  for  which  the  rate  is  7  centimes  (1.35  cents)  will  not  pro- 
ducemore  than  60,000  picks  perday,  thus  earning  4.20  francs  ($0.8106). 
Although  the  speed  of  the  narrow  looms  is  about  30  per  cent  greater, 
the  weaver's  rate  is  15  to  20  per  cent  less.  Whereas  the  daily  wages 
of  the  weaver  at  Verviers  are  between  4  and  6  francs  ($0,772  and 


772 


BEPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEBTTMI  K. 


1 


$1.16),  «ie  average  being  around  5  francs  ($0,965),  the  average  dailv 
wagM  of  the  Flemish  weaver  wiU  not  usuaUy  exceed  4  francs  ($0,772). 
A  few  of  the  mdfa  for  which  wage  scales  were  obtained  provide  for 
,^  K^^^l?  "^  "°  uidemnity  to  the  weaver  when  the  latter  is  forced 
to  be  idJe  because  of  lack  of  yam.    In  two  establishments  it  is  soecifi- 

n^^2Wrtl*?.l"^**'.r*''^  for  yam  the  manuflcturer^^hSl 
pay  2.50  francs  (48}  cents)  per  day,  after  the  first  day  of  waitme  " 

r^«^t«  «^^.T.^*' K^  ""*  reference  is  made  to  the  sul)iect;  but  the 
practice  appears  to  be  common.  On  the  other  hand,  m  ^  of  the 
miJJs  there  is  a  recognized  list  of  the  defects  in  weaving,  for  which  the 
weaver  must  pay.  As  a  mle,  the  weaver  is  chained  tie  exact  or  the 
wE'T?"  -fi^^i  "*  removing  these  defects.  Even  in  the  instances  in 
which  a  specific  fine  is  imposed  for  specific  defects,  the  amount  of  the 

me'nd  thes^def^J"  ^^P?"'™^*  -^**  ''  <^^^  ^he  manufacturer  to 
At  Ghent,  the  textile  center  of  Flanders,  the  2-loom  system  is  not 
uncommon;  but  the  woolen  and  worsted  fabrics  woven  here  are  as  a 
rule  of  lower  grade  than  those  made  at  Verviers,  and  the  looms  run 
somewhat  faster.  Partly  for  these  reasons  the  piece  rate  at  Ghent  is 
i«rfn^?f  t  VervieiB.  Indeed,  it  is  so  much  fewer  that  the  weekly 
©ammg^  of  the  woolen  and  worsted  weaver  in  Flanders  will  average 
aoproximately  one-fourth  1^  than  in  the  Verviera  region.     Becaule 

?L  w  o  •  "^  f^^^"^-  ^^"^  ^^^  relatively  high  wage  rate  at  Verviera, 
the  weavmg  of  certam  classes,  of  goods  there  is  no  longer  profitable 
and  the  work  is  generalljr  done  either  in  certain  German  to^s  where 
the  2-loom  system  prevails,  or  the  ^oods  are  woven  in  Flanders  at  a 
considerably  lower  cost  than  at  Verviers.  In  both  regions  the  weaving 
alm^n^^'^rf  worsteds  is  carried  on  at  night  during  seasons  of  great 
demand.    Bu t  night  work  m  weaving  is  by  no  means  so  common  as  in 

TrSfs'  oHhel^^l^tl.fri'^^'  f or  esutlish^^^  in  these 

prancnes  of  the  industry  run  as  a  rule  both  day  and  nieht.     In  both 
the  Verviera  region  and  in  Flanders  the  majority  of  the  weavers 
^o^^k'  ^^\^^?^^  women  are  employed  to  some  extent. 
Flll.^^^i''  ^^^f  *^®  waf  e  scales  of  woolen  and  worsted  mills  in 
Glanders.    These  scales  aU  of  which  are  based  on  the  2-loom  system 

T2ll%^.^i^Zt7^''^  5  centimes  (0.965  cents)  to  11  centime^ 
{Z,  12S  cents)  per  1,000  picks  for  goods  woven  in  undyed  yams.  For 
dyed  jrarns  the  rate  averages  3  centimes  (0.579  cents)  hi4er 

Typical  cloths,  for  which  partial  loom  analysis  could  be  eiven 
showmg  basic  rates  m  three  of  these  wage  scales  are  presented  below  : 

-WooUn  and  wonted  wmven*  wages  o/estahltshmmt  A,  in  Flanders,  Belgium, 


Tablw24.- 


1 
2 
3 

4 
5 
6 


CloCIi. 


Plain  worsted 

do 

Plain  worsted  with  woolen  fiiliiiK 

Coarse  worsteds 

OrdinaiT  worsteds,  yam  dyed'.*.'  \ 
Woftted  with  woolen  filling 


Total 
warp 
ends. 


8,527 
fi,868 
5,868 
3,340 
3,340 
4,800 


Wages. 

Shot- 
Ues. 

Picks 

per 

Inch. 

Beams. 

Shafts. 

Per 

1^000 

picks. 

Per 

yard  of 

cloth. 

M 

Centt. 

(knu. 

3 

70 

2 

18 

1.54 

3.88 

3 

110 

13 

1.25 

4.95 

2 

uo 

13 

1.23 

4.87 

2 

46 

15 

1.16 

1.02 

3 

M 

24 

1.35 

2.73 

3 

UO 

10 

1.25 

4.85 

BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


77a 


Table  25. — Woolen  and  worsted  weavers'  wages  of  establishment  B,  in  Flanders,  Belgium. 


1 

2 
3 
4 

5 
G 

7 


Cloth. 


Total 

warp 
ends. 


Shut- 
ties. 


Picks 

per 

inch. 


Worsted  cheviots 

...do 

...do 

Worsted  chlviots  with  woolen  filling. 
Fancy  worsteds  with  woolen  filling. . 

— do 

Worsteds  containing  cotton , 


2.600 
2,950 
3,450 
2,950 
3,450 
3,450 
3,450 


40 
45 
50 
80 
60 
54 
54 


Shafts. 


Wages. 


Per 

1,000 
picks. 


6 
G-8 
8 
6 
6-8 
6 
6 


Cents. 
1.18 
1.35 
1.35 
1.19 
1.35 
1-39 
1.23 


Per 

yard  of 
cloth. 


Cents. 
1.70 
2.09 
2.43 
3.33 
2.92 
2.70 
2.3t 


Table  2Q.— Woolen  and  worsted  weavers'  wages  of  establishment  C,  in  Flanders,  Belgium. 


Cloth. 

• 

Warp 
ends. 

Shut- 
tles. 

Picks 

per 

inch. 

Shafts. 

Wages. 

Per 

1,000 

picks. 

Per 
yard  of 
cloth. 

1 

Plain  worsteds 

3,000 
3.000 
3,600 
3,600 
4,750 
4,750 

o 

2 
1 
1 
1 
2 

48 
48 
58 
92 
56 
53 

• 

4 

18 

6 

6 

10 

14 

Cents. 
1.16 
1.45 
.965 
.965 
1.16 
1.48 

Centn. 
2.09 
2.51 
2.01 
3.10 
2.34 
2.82 

2 

do 

3 

Plain  woolens 

4 

do 

6 

do 

6 

do 

SPEED   OF   LOOMS   IN   ENGLAND,  GERMANY,    FRANCE,   AND   BELGIUM. 

Xo  subject  is  more  difficult  of  approach  than  that  of  the  theoretical 
speed  of  looms  in  use  over  any  very  wide  area.  Individual  mills 
have  new  and  speedy  looms  running  under  the  same  roof  with  old 
and  slow  ones,  48-pick  looms  being  found  w4th  110-pick  looms.  If 
this  is  true  in  single  mills,  it  is  much  more  true  when  a  country  is  under 
discussion.  Under  the  conditions  found,  about  all  that  can  be  done 
is  to  give  such  a  general  view  as  is  possible. 

There  is  no  doubt  that  m  England  the  looms  of  from  70  to  80  picks 
per  minute  of  possible  efficiency,  or  what  is  known  as  ''speed  of  the 
loom,''  are  rapidly  bemg  displaced,  and  that  high-speed  tappet  and 
dobby  looms  of  from  130  to  as  high  as  155  picks  per  mmute  are  coming 
more  and  more  mto  vogue.  Of  course  the  actual  percentage  of 
production,  as  based  upon  the  possible  production  if  measured  by  the 
highest  mdicated  speed,  will  decrease  as  the  speed  of  the  loom  goes 
up;  nevertheless  the  actual  output  in  yards  of  cloth  increases,  and 
increases  materiaUy.  EspeciaUy  is  this  true  with  that  class  of 
fabrics  such  as  worsteds  and  cotton  warps  to  wliich  these  looms  are 
particularly  adapted.  In  other  words,  cloths  made  of  strong  yarns 
that  will  stand  high-speed  looms  with  a  minimum  of  breakage  can 
be  put  upon  these  looms  to  an  ever-increasing  advantage. 

In  the  case  of  carded  woolen  goods  there  is  no  advantage  in  looms 
of  more  than  90  picks  per  minute  under  the  present  method  of  weav- 
ing, as  the  faster  looms  break  the  threads  more  frequently  and  the 
actual  output  in  yards  per  loom  or  per  operative  is  not  materially 
increased.     In  Germany  the  highest  speed  of  loom  which  came  under 

32080°— H.  Doc.  342,  62-2,  vol  2 11 


774 


EEPOBT  OP  TABIFF  BOASD  ON  SCHEDUI,E  K. 


EEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDtTtB  K. 


fl 


M> 


observation  was  130  picks,  except  at  Mfllhausen,  where  a  few  160- 

?f Kl'^'"^  '!;^'f  .'fPorted,  and  only  in  the  Gera,  Greiz,  Glauchau 

Ttl^r^iT  **f  ^""^  ^?  ^"^^''^  "^  PO  Dicks  per  minute  ent;r  serious*? 

^«T^  ff  l*"""-  ^^r"  *'«  ^^"^  k^'^"^^  *«'•  th«  lighter-weight 
goods  and  for  women's  dress  goods.    While  aU  the  looms  in  this  l>c- 

ff  A  J  i^-  ^'-  ^^°'  ?°"  120  pick  looms  are  now  practicaUv  the 
standard  of  this  region  In  the  districts  making  men'^s  wearovM! 
coatmgs,  etc.,  there  is  found  the  greatest  diver^rence  as  for  inWnnPA 
between  the  Cottbus-Fo«t  .regifn  and  AachSn  in  CoUbus  ?he 
average  speed  of  the  looms  in  46  establishments  was  76  ^icks  oer 
minute,  and  the  looms  in  22  establishments  in  Foist  shows  the  same 
average  speed.     At  Spermberg  in  1 9  establishments  the  average  speed 

itwiTTv.''^  ^"/'''^^  P*""  °"n«te  whUe  at  Sommerfeld  in  7  estal^ 
lisbments  the  speed  averages  57.  At  Aachen  the  weaver's  rate  is 
based  on  looms  Jrom  90  to  100  picks,  and  while  there  are  many  70  to 
80  pick  looms,  a  higher  rate  is"  paid  for  such,  showing  the  standard  to 
be  90  picks  and  over.    A  num1)er  of  "pick  and  pick"  looms  makmg 

thL^'n.^  wt^jf^"*?  have  been  introduced  into  this  section,  an! 
tneir  numt>er  is  mcreasmg  rapidly. 

It  must  be  remembered  that  many  of  the  apparently  low-speed 
looms  are  of  the  Schonlierr  type,  capable  of  weaving  almost  any  ikd 
f  w^'!^**^?-^'*'*™'  T'^  tli'»t.  after  all  a  100-pick  Ichonherr  loom  fa 
a  very  effective  machme  and  probably  for  all-around  cloth  manu- 
facture IS  as  effective  as  any  loom.  Special  looms  for  special  weaves 
can  not  of  course  be  considered  here.  *^      weaves 

H.^^[^^  outside  of  the  Koubaix  district,  and  to  an  increasmg 
d^ree  m  Eoubaix,  the  type  imd  speed  of  looms  are  foUowing  what 

n:^1SgX^oKTn5C?=o*nt*  •^'  ^•^-^^'^  ''"''^  ^'^  ^^^^y 
Outside  of  Verviers  this  is  also  essentiaUy  true  of  Belgium. 
Ihe  1-loom  and  2-loom  districts  have  been  frequently  referred  to 
^cially  m  that  part  of  the  report  showing  cost  on  sample  fabrics 
Tf^  1-loom  district  problem  is  twofold  in  Its  nature,    fc  the  S 
place  there  are  some  fabrics  upon  which  a  weaver  can  operate  onlv 
one  loom  and  could  not  attend  another  even  if  running  on  it  an  eS 
^r™L*'i1«'  i„^r^^^  manufacture  of  certain  lines  of\oods  tends  to 
wntralize  m  localities  this  generally  produces  the  1-loom  district 

tion,  however,  is  the  trade  union  and  the  trade  custom  or  hereditv 
which  makes  the  weaver,  whether  union  or  nonunion,  opposed  to  i 
change  of  meihod  or  system.  The  trade  unions  of  the  cira  Strict 
for  mstance,  do  not  oppose  the  2-loom  system  on  women's  dress  goods  • 
the  same  orgamzation  opposes  the  introduction  of  2-loom  work  in 
Cottbus  Forst,  Spermberg,  and  Aachen,  and  tliis  m  turn  operates  to 
wet' and'^fh*?™*'  P"'^''"  principally,  if  not  exclusively,  men's 
wnrW  Th^it''^-  e^*^-^"^^  that  are  in  then-  nature  1-loom 
ZId  f„^  VitTT  "^  ^}^^»^''<^^^  shown  by  the  fact  that  in 
fhi  1  f^Jo  I  -^ac^D'  but  where  the  union  influence  is  not  felt, 

fn  tlL?„i Jr-n  ^«7'ng,'-ate«  and  methods  of  production  are  founj 
United  Sme"      "      "^^^  ^*™*'  ^*'*™'  J"'*  as  is  true  in  the 

is  held  Tvl^l'^rT'^'-'^'^  ^  ^'''^^■•^'  ?«¥""i'  the  1-loom  svstem 
18  held  by  trade  orgamzations,  and  m  the  latter  place  a  prolonged 


775 


strike  against  2-loom  work  induced  the  employers  to  stop  the  attempt 
to  intrtxiuce  the  method,  at  least  for  the  time  being.  This  might 
seem  to  be  a  local  issue,  but  it  has  this  significance,  that  should  the 
1-loom  districts  become  2-loom  districts  the  weaving  rate  per  yard  of 
cloth  would  be  materially  reduced  on  such  fabrics  as  can  be  woven  on 
two  looms  or  when  another  loom  on  a  different  fabric  could  be  operated 
jointly  with  one  on  this  fabric;  and,  moreover,  many  classes  of  goods 
now  confined  to  a  few  districts  could  bo  economically  manufactured 
in  many. 

SPINNING  WAGE    SCALES   AND    COSTS   IN   OEKMANY-  ENGU^ND, 

AND  BELGIUM. 

WORSTED  TAEN   SPINNING,  GERMANY. 

A  large  amount  of  material  was  collected  on  yam  spinning 
in  the  form  of  wage  scales  in  force  in  individual  mills  or  groups  of  mills. 
These  wage  scales,  however,  go  into  such  a  maze  of  detail  that  to  print 
simple  translations  of  them  would  do  more  to  confuse  than  to  en- 
lighten. 

It  has  been  deemed  more  satisfactory  to  presefiit  the  matter  in  a 
more  concrete  form,  and  show  what  a  mule  spinning  crew  will  do  in  a 
given  time,  and  the  cost  of  labor  per  100  pounds  of  yarn. 

To  begin  with,  a  normal  crew  in  practically  all  parts  of  Germany 
consists  of  one  mule  spinner  who  operates  two  mules;  he  has  four 
piecers  and  two  alley  boys,  or  a  crew  of  seven  persons.  When  for  any 
reason  a  spinner  works  with  three  piecers  (to  two  mules)  he  receives 
8  per  cent  extra,  and  each  piecer  receives  7  per  cent  more;  when  there 
are  but  two  piecers  the  spinner  gets  20  per  cent  more  and  the  piecers 
15  per  cent  more  on  the  rate,  not  on  the  standard  pay  of  the  week. 
Four  piecers  to  a  team,  however,  is  the  rule,  and  only  the  absence 
of  a  piecer  now  and  then  from  sickness  or  shortage  of  help  reduces 
the  number. 

The  international  or  metric  system  of  yam  counts  is  used ;  that  is, 
the  number  of  the  yarn  is  the  multiple  of  1,000  meters  required  to 
weigh  a  kilo.  No.  20  yams  means  that  20,000  meters  of  such  yam 
weiglis  1  kilo.  All  of  these  yam  counts  have  been  given  the  nearest 
American  equivalent. 

Theoretically,  a  team  is  expected  to  produce  33,000,000  meters  of 
yam  in  a  week  of  58  hours ;  the  number  and  weight  of  the  yam  would, 
of  course,  depend  on  tlie  size  to  which  it  is  spun. 

Just  as  the  standard  output  is  33,000,000  meters,  the  standard 
earnings  or  wages  of  a  good  mule  spinner  is  set  at  26  marks  ($6.19)  in 
a  week  of  58  hours.  The  four  piecers  each  receive  63  per  cent  of  the 
spinner's  wages,  or  16.38  marks  ($3.90),  making  65.52  marks,  or  $15.60, 
for  piecei-s'  wages.  The  spool  or  alley  boys  get  9  marks  ($2.14)  each, 
or  18*marks  ($4.28)  for  the  week,  making  a  total  wage  or  earnings 
for  the  team  of  109.52  marks  ($26.07)  in  a  week  of  58  hours.  This  is 
the  actual  standard  in  the  mill  from  which  the  figures  given  on  page 
776  were  secured.  • 

This  table  represents  the  facts  in  an  establishment  having  74  mules, 
48,100  spindles,  employing  37  spinners,  148  piecers  on,  and  a  total  of 
650  employees.     It  is  based  on  the  output  of  one  spinner  operating 


I 


f 


776 


BEPOBT  OP  TAEIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


two  mules  or  1,300  spindles,  and  shows,  iirst,  the  international  count 
or  yam  number;  second,  the  American  yam  number:  the  number  of 
of  pounds  of  yam  of  the  indicated  size  that  would  be  produced  in  a 
week  of  58  hours;  the  earnings  of  the  team  (of  seven  persons)  per  100 

SC™  tf  "^^'^^^^^^  ^^^^^  *^^  T'^""^  «^  ^^^^^^  the  Lnner 

•  *    r  Pf^  ^^  ^"^^^  ""^  y^"^  «^  ®*^^  si^se.    The  table  is  earned  up 

to  JNo.  69  yam.  ^ 

,  To  make  it  clearer,  take  the  yam  No.  45  in  the  first  column  which 
IS  the  mtematwnal  or  metric  count  45;  this  equals  our  woret^  yam 
^o.  40  and  a  team  of  seven  persons  (one  spinner,  four  piecers.  and 
two  alley  boys)  operating  two  mules  of  650  spindles  each,  or  1  300 
spindles,  win  produce  m  the  establishment  under  consideration 
1,613.7  pounds  of  40s  yarn  (36,036,360  yards)  in  a  week  of  58  hours 

«nLrii' tn  q^q/^^"^  T^T?  ^^'^^^^  P^^   100  P«"^^s;  the 

spinner  $0  3834  per  100  pounds;  the  spinner  earning  $6.19  for  his 

week  s  work,  each  piecer  $3.90,  each  alley  boy  $2.14,  and  the  entire 

poup  or  team  $26.07.     In  other  words,  the  wages  of  the  spinLi  and 

team^  remaining  permanent  at  the  standard,  the  table  shows  how 

much  of  each  sized  yam  must  be  produced  in  a  week  to  reach  the 

earnings,  at  the  rate  per  100  pounds  for  each  sized  yam. 


International 
yam  number. 


Ameri- 
can 
equiva- 
lent in 
nearest 
whole 
num- 
ber. 


Pounds 
produced 
per  week. 


16 

17 

18 

19 

20 

21 

22 

23 : 

24 

25. 

25.... .■.'.■.■.■.■.'; 

27 

29*""."';"  ■" 

30 ■ 

31 

32 ;... 

sa 

34 

Ao. 

3G 

37 

38 

39 

40 

41 ■ 

42 

43 

44 

45 ; 

46 


14 

15 

16 

17 

18 

19 

19 

20 

21 

22 

23 

24 

25 

26 

27 

27 

28 

29 

30 

31 

32 

33 

34 

35 

35 

36 

37 

38 

39 

40 

41 


Wages 

of  tmun 

per  100 

pounds. 


4,585.61 

4.246.10 

3,968.32 

3,754.47 

3,697.15 

3,580.30 

3.181.10 

3.373.07 

3.262.84 

3,097.49 

2,938.76 

2,795.46 

2,665.39 

2,(301.45 

2,546.34 

2,438.31 

2,339.10 

2,336.90 

2,204.62 

2, 162. 73 

2,138.48 

2,010.02 

1,948.89 

1,847.47 

1,818.81 

1,790.15 

1,737.24 

Jl|  UIIHr*  Ot> 

1. 635. 83 
1.613.78 
1,591.74 


Wages 
of  spin- 
ner per 

100 
pounds- 


10.5684 
.6139 
.6568 
.6943 
.7050 
.7280 
.7488 
.7728 
.7989 
.8415 
.8870 
.9324 
.9779 
1.0020 
1.0237 
1.0690 
1.1143 
1.1154 
1.1182 
1.2052 
1.2189 
1.2964 
1.3375 
1.4109 
1.4331 
1.4561 
1.5004 
1.6475 
1,5934 
1.61.52 
1.6376 


SO.  1349 
.1457 
.1564 
.1648 
.1674 
.1728 
.1778 
.1835 
.1897 
.1998 
.2106 
.2214 
.2322 
.2379 
.2430 
.2537 
.2645 
.2647 
.2807 
.2861 
.2894 
.3078 
.3175 
.3349 
.3402 
.3456 
.3562 
.  3074 
.3783 
.3834 


International 
yarn  number. 


Ameri- 
can 
equiva- 
lent in 
nearest 
whole 
num- 
ber. 


47 

48 

49 

60 

51 

52 

53 

^"  -... 

55., 

66 

57 

68 

59 

60 ; 

61 

62 

68 

64 * 

65 

66 * 

67 

68 

69 

70 

71 

72 

74 

75 

76 ;. 

TOm 


41 

42 

43 

44 

45 

46 

47 

48 

49 

50 

60 

61 

52 

53 

54 

55 

56 

57 

68 

58 

59 

60 

61 

62 

63 

64 

65 

66 

67 

09 


Pounds 
produced 
per  week. 


Wages 

of  team 

per  100 

pounds. 


1,569.69 
1,547.64 
1,525.60 
1,468.28 
1,433.00 
1,388.91 
1,364.66 
1,331.59 
1,300.73 
1,272.07 
1,245.62 
1,219.16 
1,192.70 
1, 168. 45 
1, 146. 40 
1,!22.15 
1,091.29 
1,069.24 
1,061.60 
1,031,76 
1,014.13 
99(>.49 
978.85 
963.42 
945.78 
930.35 
888.46 
868.62 
855.38 
824.53 


Wages 
of  spin- 
ner per 

100 
pounds. 


$1.6606 
1.6842 
1.7086 
1.7753 
1.8190 
1.8767 
1.9101 
1.9575 
2.0039 
2.0491 
2.0926 
2.1380 
2.1854 
2.2308 
2.2737 
2.3228 
2.3885 
2.4378 
2. 4787 
2.5263 
2.5703 
2.6158 
2.6629 
2.7055 
2.7560 
2.8017 
2.9338 
3.0008 
3.0473  , 
3.1613' 


$0.3942 
.3998 
.4056 
.4215 
.4318 
.4455 
.4535 
.4647 
.4757 
.4865 
.4968 
.5076 
.5188 
.5296 
.5398 
.5514 
.5670 
.5787 
.5884 
.5997 
.6103 
.6210 
.6321 
.6423 
.6543 
.6651 
.6965 
.7124 
.7234 
.7506 


:« "^®^^^  ^"  ^^^^  ^^'  ^  *^^®,  spinners*  scale  for  a  worsted-yam  mill 
i^i^r£.i  ""^^  Gennany,  employing  1,686  persons,  having  110  mules, 
and  employing  55  spinners  and  220  piecers-on. 

wool  a^^thf  W.^!.l^^^ ''''  ^"^yP  P"^^  P^'  P^*"^^-  T^^  ^"^1%  o^ 
wool  and  the  mtemational  or  metnc  yam  count  are  giyen.     The  rate 


REPOBT  OF   TAEIFF  BOABD   ON   SCHEDUI^   K, 


77T 


for  warp  and  for  weft  jram,  on  a  different  number  of  spindles  carries 
a  different  rate,  and  this  is  brought  out  as  clearly  as  a  tabulation  of 
|i  wage  scale  can  bring  it  out.  When  two  rates  appear,  it  is  for  a 
slightly  different  number  of  twists  in  the  yarn  per  inch,  an  element 
that  could  not  be  tabulated.  For  instance,  take  No.  78  weft  yam  on 
500  spindles,  the  rates  are  3.3  and  3.4  cents  per  pound  for  the  team; 
while  with  680  spindles  the  rate  is  3.2  cents  per  pound. 

Table  27. — Wages  of  mule  spinners  in  a  German  worsted-yam  mill. 


Number 

of 
sptndles. 

Kind  of 

Quality 

Interna- 
tional 

Team 

wages  per 

pound, 

m  cents. 

Number 

nt 

Kind  of 

Quality 

Interna- 
tional 

Team 
wages  per 

yarn. 

of  wool. 

yam 
count. 

spindles. 

yarn. 

of  wool. 

yam 
count. 

pound, 
in  cents. 

SOO 

Weft.... 

A 

52 

1.9 

600 

Warp... 

A 

64 

2.2 

600. 

...do 

A 

64 

2.5 

600 

...do 

A 

66 

2.2 

£00 

...do 

A 

68 

2.7 

600 

.  ..do 

A 

78 

2.7-2.8 

500 

...do 

A 

68/9 

2.7 

640  or  680 

...do 

A 

64 

2.4 

600 

...do 

A 

69 

2.8 

640  or  680 

...do 

A 

78 

3.1 

600 

...do 

A 

72 

3.0 

640  or  680 

...do 

2A 

86 

3.4 

600 

...do 

A 

73 

3.0 

640  or  680 

...do 

2  A 

90 

3.6-3.7 

500 

— do 

A 

74 

3.1 

640  or  080 

...do 

3A 

96 

4.0-4.1 

600 

...do 

A 

78 

3. 3-3. 4 

640  or  080 

...do 

4A 

112 

5.1 

600 

...do 

A 

79 

3. 3-3. 4 

680 

Weft.... 

iBC 

30 

1.05 

500 

...do 

2A 

84 

3.5 

680 

...do 

iBC 

32 

1.06 

500 

...do 

2A 

86 

3.7 

680 

...do 

iBC 

48 

1.9 

500 

...do 

2  A 

92 

4.1 

680 

...do 

B 

40 

1.2 

600 

...do 

3  A 

96 

4.3 

680 

...do 

B 

51 

2.0 

600 

Warp... 

A 

32 

1.0 

680 

...do 

1  AB 

64 

2.5 

600 

...do 

A 

42 

1.5 

680 

...do 

lAB 

68 

2.7 

600 

...do 

A 

46 

1.6 

680 

...do. 

A 

06 

2.5 

600 

...do 

A 

49 

1.8 

680 

...do 

A 

TO 

2.8 

600 

...do 

A 

52 

1.9 

680 

...do 

A 

72 

2.8 

600 

...do 

A 

53 

2.0 

680 

...do 

A 

76 

3.0 

600 

...do 

A 

54 

2.0 

680 

...do 

A 

78 

3.2 

600 

...do 

A 

56 

2.1 

680 

...do 

A 

86 

3.6 

600 

...do 

»AB 

16 

.4 

680 

...do 

3An 

92 

3.9 

600 

...do 

A 

26 

.8 

680 

...do 

3A 

96 

4. 1-4. 4 

600 

...do 

A 

48 

1.5-1.6 

680 

...do 

4A 

112 

5.5-5.7 

600 

.  .  aUOid  .  I 

A 

52 

1.7 

800 

...do 

A 

74 

2.g-3.2 

1  Twisted  together.  * 

The  above  wages  will  be  paid  only  for  spinning  up  the  weft  yam; 
for  warp  yam  0.43  cents  is  deducted  on  quahty  A,  and  0.75  cerrts  on 
qualities  AA  and  AAA. 

WAGES   OF   SPINNERS   AND   PIECERS    IN    GERMAN   TOWNS. 

Table  28  gives  the  standard  rate  of  earnings  for  worsted  spinners 
and  piecers  in  various  establishments  and  locaHties  in  Germany. 
The  table  shows  the  location  of  the  establishment,  the  number  of 
spinners,  and  standard  weekly  rate  of  earmngs.  It  is  fully  reahzed 
that  in  both  of  these  occupations  the  piece  rate  payment  of  wages 
prevails,  and  that  a  spinner  earns  what  he  prodiices  at  that  rate, 
nevertheless  the  standard  is  fixed  on  an  output  that  is  more  or  less 
of  a  task  system;  and  these  are  frequently  protected  by  a  guaranteed 
minimum  that  insures  the  worker  against  loss  from  any  reason  not 
his  own  fault. 

The  figures  here  given  may  be  accepted  therefore  as  represent- 
ing the  standard  earnings  of  the  occupations  in  the  estabhsnments. 


778 


KEPOKT  OF  TARIFF  BOABD   ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


Wliere  the  name  of  a  town  is  given  more  than  once  it  means  different 
establishments  in  the  same  town: 

Table  28. — Rates  of  pay  for  spinners  and  piectrs  in  specified  German  localities. 


Place. 


Leipzig 
DeJmenJktorlt . . . 

Augsborg 

Leipzig 

Exstein 

Lennep 

Bchedewitz 

Leipzig 

Mu&m^sen 

Zwiclaui.. 

Zwotzen 

Butzweikr 

MuUmusen 

Eisenacli. 

Schweina 

Oosmtannsdorf 

Longenfalza 

Rooneburg 

€aiitzscti 

DreBden 

Kappel 

LangenfaJza — 

Domsfeld 

BaW 

MuUmusen...!. 


Spinners. 


Number. 


46 

S3 

m 

7 
10 
29 
49 
42 
34 
27 
37 

9 
25 
38 
17 
21 
31 

7 
15 

5 
14 

7 

2 
21 
31 


Earnings 
per  week 


16.43 
5.71 
6.07 
6.31 
5.71 
5.47 
5.95 
6  M 
7.50 
6.07 
C.19 
6.00 
7.74 
5.83 
5.24 

e.fto 

5.71 
5.12 
6.43 
6.06 
5.47 


7.02 
7.38 


Piecere. 


Number. 


184 

132 

230 

28 

156 

116 

196 

166 

136 

108 

148 

36 

100 

152 

68 

84 

124 

28 

60 

20 

56 

28 

8 

84 

124 


Earnings 
per  week. 


S3. 09 
3.93 
3.69 
3.33 
3.33 
3.81 
3.21 
3.27 
5.02 
3.57 
3.71 
4.46 
5.12 
2.90 
3.57 
2.98 
4.28 
2.50 
3.21 
2.86 
3.81 
3.86 
2.38 
4.58 
4.94 


EFFICIENCY   OF  IaBOB;   WAOES,    AND   LABOR   COST    BY    PROCESSES,    IN 

A   GEEMAN    WORSTED   SPINNING   MILL. 

A  persistent  effort  was  made  to  secure  process  efficiency  and  costs 
everjr where,  and  an  opportunity  was  afforded  in  a  German  worsted 
spinning  mill  to  secure  minute  and  accurate  data  on  each  operation 
and  process.  The  mill  makes  high-CTade  w^orsted  yams,  such  as 
entef  into  the  class  of  goods  imported  into  the  United  States  and  is 
thoroughly  equipped  with  up-to-date  machinery,  buying  its  raw  wool 
in  the  grease,  canying  on  all  processes  preliminary  to  and  inchiding 
spinning.  It  does  its  own  wool,  top,  and  yam  dyeing.  In  the  fol- 
lowing statement  only  direct  labor  is  accounted  for;  this  does  not 
include  either  inspection  or  common  roustabout  labor. 

Beginning  with  the  sorting  of  the  wool,  which  is,  of  course,  a  purely 
handwork  process,  the  sorting  room  was  found  to  employ  22  wool 
sorters,  all  women,  and  2  rag  sorters,  both  men.  The  menVere  paid 
$1.07  per  day.  The  wool  sorting  is  piecework  and  the  women  earn 
from  64  to  66.6  cents  per  day;  the  average  output  per  day  being 
13,228  pounds  of  sorted  wool  for  the  22  women,  or  an  average  of  601 
pounds  per  sorter  per  day;  the  labor  cost  for  actual  sorting  being 
0.13  of  a  cent  per  pound.  This  does  not  include  the  inspectors,  who 
are  men,  and  who  are  comparatively  well  paid. 

The  sorted  wool  is  conveyed  in  chutes  to  the  scouring  room,  where 
three  men  and  four  wom^n  operate  two  machines.  The  average  daily 
output  of  scoured  wool  is  about  6,173  pounds,  or  3,086  pounds  per 
machine,  and  882  pounds  per  worker.     The  average  wages  of  the 


EEPOBT  OF  TAEIFF  BOAED  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


779 


men  operatives  on  these  machines  is  95.2  cents  per  day;  and  50  cents 
for  the  women;  the  labor  cost  being  0.08  of  a  cent  per  pound  of 
scoured  wool. 

From  the  scouring  department  the  wool  goes  to  the  card  room, 
where  27  persons  are  employed  directly  upon  the  carding  process. 
Of  these,  four  are  men  and  23  are  women,  all  over  16  years  of  age. 
They  are  paid  by  the  day,  and  the  wages  for  the  men  average  $1.07; 
women  are  paid  from  52.4  cents  to  54.7  cents  per  day.  The  output 
averages  about  5,732  pounds  per  day;  159.2  pounds  per  machine,  and 
212  pounds  per  worker  per  day,  the  labor  cost  per  pound  of  carded 
wool  being  0.29  of  a  cent. 

From  the  card  room  the  material  goes  to  the  combing  department, 
where  15  women  tend  36  up-to-date  combing  machines  and  4  gill 
boxes.  The  work  here  is  on  a  time  basis,  and  the  daily  rate  ranges 
from  52.4  to  54.7  cents.  The  average  daily  output  of  tops  is  about 
5,512  pounds,  an  average  of  153  pounds  per  combing  machine,  or 
367  pounds  per  worker;  the  labor  cost  per  pound  of  tops,  for  comb 
operatives  only,  is  0.15  of  a  cent. 

Drawing. — There  are  115  women  and  5  men  in  the  drawing  depart- 
ment converting  tops  into  roving.  The  average  daily  production 
for  the  department  is  about  5,732  pounds,  or  48  j)ounds  per  worker. 
Wages  are  paid  on  a  piecework  oasis.  There  is  1,  male  over  17 
years  old  whose  earnings  average  80.9  cents  per  day;  4  boys  between 
16  and  17  years  old  get  a  beginner's  rate  of  38.1  cents  per  day;  and 
the  women  workers  earn  54.7  to  59.5  cents  per  day.  The  average 
labor  cost  per  pound  of  roving  is  1.19  cents. 

Mide  spinning. — There  are  18,600  spindles  in  the  mule  room,  and  a 
total  of  119  workers,  53  of  whom  are  males,  and  66  females;  20  are 
under  16  years  of  age. 

The  daily  output  is  about  1,984  pounds  of  yam,  which  is  10.7 
pounds  per  100  spindles,  and  17  pounds  per  worker,  including  children. 
The  15  spinners  (on  piece  rates)  have  an  average  daily  earning  ranging 
from  $1.05  to  $1.09;  18  male  piecers  have  an  average  earning  ranging 
from  83  to  88  cents  a  day;  female  piecers  64  to  71  cents  a  day;  the 
20  bovs  receive  an  average  of  38,1  cents  per  day.  The  labor  cost  per 
pound  of  yarn  produced  is  4.23  cents. 

Ring  spinnim.— There  are  16,800  spindles  in  the  ring-spinning 
department.  Tlie  total  employees  number  108,  one  of  whom  is 'a 
man;  there  are  101  females  over  16,  and  6  girls  under  16  years  of  age. 

The  average  output  per  day  is  about  3,527  pounds  of  yarn;  21 
pounds  per  100  spindles,  or  33  pounds  per  worker,  including  children. 
Wages  are  paid  on  piecework  basis;  the  1  man  earns  90.4  cents  per 
day;  the  women  average  59.5  cents,  and  the  6  girls  are  paid  a 
beginner's  rate  of  38.1  cents  per  day. 

The  average  labor  cost  per  pound  of  yam  is  1.79  cents. 

Doubling  and  twisting. — The  28  twisting  frames  in  this  department 
have  8,880  spindles;  there  are  9  doubhng  frames. 

There  are  112  employees,  3  of  whom  are  men,  94  women,  and  15 
girls  under  16  years  of  age. 

The  average  output  of  the  department  is  about  2,205  pounds  per 
day,  79  pounds  per  twisting  frame,  or  25  pounds  per  100  spindles; 
245  pounds  per  doubling  machine;  and  20  pounds  per  worker,  including 
children. 


780 


BEPOBT  OF   TAEIFF  BOARD   ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


The  average  wage  on  piecework  basis  for  men  is  $1,  and  59.5  cents 
for  women.  The  children  were  on  a  time  wage  of  38.1  cents  per  day. 
The  average  labor  cost  per  pound  of  yarn  is  2.91  cents. 

Packing  and  steaming, — There  are  23  employees  in  jhis  department 
engaged  directly  on  the  processes  of  the  work.  Of  these,  7  are  men 
and  16  are  women.  The  daily  output  is  about  5,512  pounds,  or  240 
pounds  per  worker. 

Wages  are  paid  on  an  hourly  rate  basis  and  the  men  receive  from 
88.1  cents  to  00.4  cents  per  day;  the  women  59.5  cents. 

The  average  labor  cost  per  pound  of  yarn  passing  through  this 
department  is  0.29  of  a  cent. 

Vydng.'-As  before  stated,  this  firm  does  its  own^  dyeing,  whether 
of  tops  before  spinning  into  yarn,  or  of  yarn  after  it  is  spun,  as  the 
market  demands. 

There  are  16  men  and  31  women  employed  in  this  department: 
the  average  daily  output  is  about  5,952  pounds  per  day,  an  average 
of  298  pounds  per  dyeing  machine,  or  127  pounds  per  worker.  It  is 
time  wages,  and  men  are  paid  $1  per  day,  women  59.5  cents. 

The  average  cost  per  pound  of  material  dyed  is  0.58  of  a  cent. 

CARDED   WOOLEN   TARN   SPINNING   IN    ENGLAND. 

Considerable  data  on  carded  woolen  yarn  spinning  were  secured 
in  England,  showing  not  only  earnings  of  the  spinners  but  the  effi- 
ciency of  the  machines.  These  data  are  condensed  in  Tables  29,  30, 
and  31,  which  follow. 

In  this  tabulation  the  number  of  the  yam  as  given  means  the 
skein  number  as  used  for  shoddy  and  low  woolen  yam  in  England. 
No.  1  yarn  is  yam  of  which  there  are  1.536  yards  to  a  6-pound  skein; 
No.  10  yam  means  10  times  1,536  yards  in  a  6-pound  skein.  This 
number  is  used  in  the  table,  together  with  the  use  to  be  made  of 
the  yam.  Thus  10  F  is  No.  10  filling  or  weft  yarn,  10  W  is  No.  10 
warp  yam. 

The  time  of  draw  means  the  time  in  seconds  which  the  mule  carriage 
requires  to  run  back  and  forth  the  distance  it  travels,  or  the  length 
of  the  draw. 

The  number  of  spindles  each  spinner  tends  is  shown  rather  than  the 
number  of  mules,  which  is  always  two. 

The  other  items  in  the  tables  are  believed  to  be  clear. 


REPORT  OF  TABIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


781 


Table  29. — Eficlmaj  of  machinery  and  operatives  and  rates  of  pay  to  operatives  for  spinr 
ning  yams  in  Iluddersfield,  Colne  Valley,  and  Bradford  districts. 


Material. 


Yam  No. 


Rag  wool. 


Rag  and  cotton. 


Rag  and  cotton. 


Rag  and  crossbred . 


Cotton  and  rag  wxil. 


Cotton,  rag,  wool,  and  crossbred. 


Rag,  wool,  and  crossbred. 


Rag  and  crossbred . 


Botany  woo!,  noils  from  Botany,  or 

rag  from  Botany. 
Fine  noils  from  Botany  or  Botany  rags 
Rag,  Aiistralian,  and  cotton 

bo 

Rag  wool 

Rag  wool,  cotton,  etc 

Do 

Rag  wool  and  New  Zealand 

Crossbred 

Do 

Tiag  wool  and  cotton 

R  ag  wool 


lOF 

10  F 

lOF 

lOF. 

lOF 

lOF 

lOF 

18F 

18F 

18F.. 

ISF 

18F 

18F 

18F 

26F 

26  F 

26F 

26  F 

2GF 

26F 

26F . 

34F 

34  F 

34F 

34F 

34F 

34F 

34  F 

low 

low 

low 

low 

low 

low , 

low 

18W 

18W 

18W 

18W 

18W 

18W , 

18W , 

26W , 

26W , 

2GW , 

20  W , 

26W 

28W 

26W , 

34W , 

34W 

34W 

34W 

34W 

34W 

34  V/ 

24WandF. 

ISWandF. 
15  Wand  F. 
12WandF. 
8  Wand  F.. 

8F 

8W 

8W 

16W 

24W 

16F 

16F 

8F 


Time  of 
draw. 


Seconds. 
23 
23 
23 
23 
23 
23 
23 
24 
24 
24 
24 
24 
24 
24 
25 
25 
25 
25 
25 
25 
25 
26 
26 
26 
26 
26 
26 
26 
26 
26 
26 
26 
26 
26 
26 
26 
26 
26 
26 
26 
20 
2C 
27 
27 
27 
27 
27 
27 
27 
27 
27 
27 
27 
27 
27 
27 
27 

27 
27 

27 
27 
30 
30 
30 
40 
30 
40 
26-28 
2&-28 


Length 
of  draw. 


Ft.  in. 


7 

7 


7 

7 
7 
7 
7 
7 
7 
7 

r» 
4 

I 
7 

7 
7 
i 
7 

7 


i 

7 
7 
7 

p^ 

I 
7 
7 
7 
7 
t 

7 
7 
6 

6 
6 
6 
6 
6 


5 

6 
6 
7 

7 


0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

6 

c 

6 
0 
6 
0 


Spindles 
tended. 


6  0 
5  8 


600 

650 

700 

750 

800 

850 

900 

600 

650 

700 

750 

800 

850 

900 

600 

G50 

700 

800 

750 

850 

900 

600 

650 

700 

753 

800 

850 

900 

600 

650 

700 

750 

800 

850 

900 

600 

650 

700 

750 

800 

850 

900 

600 

650 

700 

750 

800 

850 

900 

600 

650 

700 

750 

800 

850 

900 

650 

650 
650 
650 
650 
720 
720 
650 
720 
720 
720 
550 
550 


Produced 
I)er  spin- 
dle per 
hour  (56- 
hour 
week). 


Pounds. 
0.066 
066 
066 
066 
064 
063 
062 
042 
042 
042 
041 
041 
040 
039 
031 
031 
031 
031 
030 
030 
029 
025 
025 
025 
025 
024 
024 
023 
061 
061 
060 
060 
05C 
058 
057 
039 
039 
038 
038 
038 
037 
03C 
029 
020 
028 
028 
028 
027 
027 
023 
023 
023 
023 
022 
022 
022 
017 

023 
028 
032 
037 
051 
056 
071 
034 
037 
022 
057 
093 


Labor 

cost  per 

spindle 

per  hour.i 


Cents. 
0.035 
.034 
.033 
.032 
.031 
.030 
.028 
.036 
.035 
.034 
.033 
.031 
.030 
.029 
.037 
.036 
.035 
.033 
.032 
.030 
.029 
.037 
.036 
.035 
.035 
.032 
.031 
.030 
.032 
.035 
.034 
.033 
.031 
.030 
.029 
.037 
.036 
.035 
.033 
.032 
.031 
.029 
.037 
.030 
.035 


.031 
.030 
.038 
.037 
.006 
.035 
.033 
.032 
.031 
.037 

.037 
.037 
.037 
.037 
.035 
.039 
.039 
.035 
.038 
.027 
.044 
.044 


1  Does  not  include  foremen. 


782 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  Olf  SCHEBTJtB  K. 


BEPORT  OF  TABIFF  BOAED  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


783 


Table  30. — Effideney  of  machinery  and  operatives  and  rates  of  pay  to  operatives  for  spin* 
ning  yarns  m  Muddersjieldt  Colne  Valley,  and  Brmjord  districts. 


Table  31. — Ej^ciency  of  machinery  and  operatives  and  rates  of  pay  to  operatives  for 
spiniiing  yams  in  lIiuMersJkld,  Colne  Valley ,  and  Bradford  districts. 


Material. 

Yam  No. 

Time  of 
draw. 

Length 
of  draw. 

Spindles. 

Labor 
cost  per 
poiind.^ 

Labor 
cost  per 
spindle.' 

Mag  wool. 

lOF 

lOF 

Seconds. 
23 
23 
23 
23 
23 
23 
23 
24 
24 
24 
24 
24 
24 
24 
25 
3S 
21 
21 
25 
25 
25 
20 
26 
20 
26 
26 
20 
20 
10 
26 
20 
20 
20 
SO 
20 
20 
M 

m 
m 

20 

20 
2f 

17 
37 
17 
17 

27 
27 
27 
27 
27 
27 
17 
27 
27 
17 
27 

27 

27' 
27 
27 
30 
30 
30 
40 

ao 

40 

26-28 
26-28 

Ft.  in. 
7    0 
7    0 
7    0 
7    0 
7    0 
7    0 
7    0 
7    0 
7    0 
7    0 
7    0 
7    0 
7    0 
7    0 
7    0 
7    0 
7    0 
7    0 
7    0 
7    0 
7    0 
7    0 
7    0 
7    0 
7    0 
7    0 
7    0 
7    0 
7    0 
7    0 
7    0 
7    0 
7    0 
7    0 
7    0 
7    0 
7    0 
7    0 
7    0 
7    0 
7    0 
7    0 
7    0 
7    0 
7    0 
7    0 
7    0 
7    0 
7    0 
7    0 
7    0 
7    0 
7    0 
7    0 
7    0 
7    0 
6    6 

6    6 

6    6 

6    6 
6    6 
6    0 
6    0 
S    8 

5  0 

6  0 

6  6 

7  0 
7    0 

600 
650 
700 
750 
800 
850 
900 
600 
650 
700 
750 
800 
850 
900 
600 
650 
700 
800 
750 
850 
900 
600 
650 
700 
750 
800 
850 
900 
600 
650 
700 
750 
800 
850 
900 
600 
650 
700 
750 
800 
850 
900 
600 
650 
700 
750 
800 
860 
OQO 
600 
660 
700 
750 
800 
&50 
900 
660 

G50 

660 
650 
660 
720 
720 
650 
720 
720 
720 
550 

CeTits. 

0.531 

.517 

.506 

.493 

.481 

.469 

.456 

.850 

.825 

.811 

.791 

.770 

.750 

.730 

1.168 

L136 

1.116 

1.072 

1.048 

L020 

.901 

L470 

1.430 

L400 

1.366 

L331 

L295 

1.259 

.581 

.572 

.560 

.548 

.536 

.521 

.506 

.948 

.921 

.900 

.876 

.853 

.832 

.811 

1.292 

L257 

1.236 

1.199 

L174 

1.146 

1.113 

1.046 

1.009 

1.570 

L533 

L496 

L459 

L419 

2.209 

L599 

L350 
L167 

L013 

.658 

.675 

.544 

L034 

L028 

1.184 

.772 

cents. 
1.967 
L916 

10  F 

L857 

10  F 

L793^ 

10  F 

L724 

lOF 

1.653 

10  F 

1.578 

Hiw  and  cotton 

18F 

2.008 

18  F 

L953 

18F 

1.895 

18F 

18  F 

18  F 

1.828 
1.759 
1.687 

18  F 

1.611 

26  F 

2.048 

26  F 

L991 

Eae  and  crossbred 

26  F 

26  F 

1.932 
1.840 

26F 

1.772 

26  F 

1.698 

26  F 

1.622 

34  F 

2.063 

34  F 

2.002 

34  F 

1.945 

■Ill 

34  F 

1.974 

34  F 

1.807 

34F 

34  F 

1.731 
1.663 

low 

10  W 

1.818 
1.953 

low 

1.892 

Cotton  and  nui  wool 

low. 

low 

10  W 

1.830 

L762 
1.687 

low 

1.620 

18W ... 

2.040 

18  W 

1.991 

Cotton  rag  wool  and  ciOGSbred 

18  W 

18W 

18  W 

1.935 
1.863 
1.792 

18W 

1.722 

18W 

1.647 

26W 

2.086 

Bag  wool  and  cro.ssbrwl 

26W 

26  W 

2.028 
1  970 

20W 

1.895 

26W 

1.830 

26  W 

1.758 

26W 

1.674 

34W 

2.126 

Rag  and  cnasbred , 

34  W 

34  W 

2.076 
2.007 

34  W 

1.936 

34  W 

1.868 

34W 

1.794 

Botanv  wool,  noils  from  Botany  or 

rag  fVom  Botany. 
Fine  noils  from  Botany  or  Botany 

lags. 
Bag,  Australian,  and  cotton 

Do 

24W.'andr'.*. 

ISW.andF.. 

ISW.andF.. 
12  W.  andF.. 
8  W.  and  F . . 
8F 

8  W 

L714 
.374 

.874 

.374 
.874 

Rag  wool 

.374 

Bag  wool,  cotton,  etc 

Do 

L873 
2.090 

Rag  wool  and  New  Zealand 

8W 

2.094 

Crossbred 

16  W 

1  912 

Do 

24W 

2  059 

Do 

lOF 

16F 

1  076 

Rag  wool  and  cotton 

2.385 

Rag  wp<)i , , 

8F 

2.3.S5 

Material. 


Rag  wool- 


Yarn  No. 


Rag  and  cotton. 


Rag  and  cross- 


Cotton  and  rag 
wool. 


Cotton,    ra 
wool,  a 
crossbred. 


'Si 


Rag   wool   and 
crossbred. 


*  Doee  not  include  loremen. 


Rag  and  cross- 
bred. 


Botany  wool, 
noils  from  Bot- 
any o  r  r  a  g 
from  Botany. 

Fine  noils  from 
Botany,  or 
Botany  rags. 

Rag,  Austra- 
lian, and 
cotton. 
Do 

Rag  wool 

Bag  wool,  oot- 
ton,  etc. 
Do 


10  F 

10  F 

10  F 

10  F 

lOF 

10  F 

10  F 

18  F 

18F 

18  F 

18F 

18F 

18  F 

18  F 

26F 

26F 

26F 

26  F 

26F 

26F 

26F 

34  F 

34F 

34  F 

34  F 

34F 

34  F 

34  F 

low 

low 

low 

low 

low 

low 

low 

18W 

18W 

18W 

18W 

18W 

18W 

18W 

26 'V 

28W 

26W 

26W 

26W 

26W 

26W 

34  W 

34W 

34  W 

34W 

34  W 

34W 

34  W 

24  W.  and 


ISW.andF. 
15  W.  andF. 


12  W.  andF. 

8  W.  andF. 

8F. 


Time  of 
draw. 


8W. 


Seconds. 
23 
23 
23 
23 
23 
23 
23 
24 
24 
24 
24 
24 
24 
24 
25 
26 
25 
25 
25 
25 
25 
20 
26 
26 
26 
26 
20 
2C 
26 
26 
26 
26 
26 
26 
26 

m 

26 
26 
20 
26 
26 
26 
27 
27 
27 
27 
27 
27 
27 
27 
27 
27 
27 
27 
27 
27 
27 


27 


27 


27 

27 
30 

30 


Length 
of  draw. 


Ft.  in 
7    0 
0 


t 

7 

7 

7 

7 

7 

7 

7 

7 

7 

7 

7 

i 

7 

7 

7 

7 

7 

7 

7 

7 

7 

7 

7 

7 

7 

7 

7 

7 

7 

7 

7 

7 

7 

7 

7 

7 

7 

7 

7 

7 

7 

7 

7 

7 

7 

7 

4 

7 
7 
7 
/ 

7 
7 
7 
6 


0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

0 

6 


6    6 
6    6 


6    0 
6    0 


Spindles 
tended. 


600 

650 

700 

750 

800 

850 

900 

600 

650 

700 

750 

800 

850 

900 

600 

650 

700 

800 

750 

850 

900 

600 

660 

700 

750 

800 

850 

900 

GOO 

650 

700 

750 

800 

850 

900 

600 

650 

700 

750 

800 

860 

000 

600 

650 

700 

750 

800 

850 

900 

GOO 

650 

700 

750 

800 

850 

900 

650 


650 


C50 


650 
650 
720 


720 


Produced 
per  hour 
all  spin- 
dles (58- 
hom- 
week). 


Pounds. 
38.293 
41.569 
44.276 
46.931 
49.448 
51.690 
53.741 
24.431 
26.500 
28.207 
29.897 
31.500 
32.966 
34.258 
18. 138 
19.638 
20.897 
22.190 
23.362 
24. 431 
25.414 
14.517 
15.706 
16.776 
17. 741 
18. 724 
19.586 
20.362 
35.224 
38. 241 
40. 741 
43.172 
45.328 
47. 414 
49. 448 
22.310 
24.224 
25.966 
27.483 
28.983 
80.328 
31.500 
16.690 
18.086 
19.224 
20.431 
21.500 
22.483 
23.345 
13.362 
14. 448 
15. 431 
16.327 
17.224 
18.017 
18. 741 
11.000 


15.200 
18.000 


21.000 
24.000 
12. 372 

40.000 


Spinners' 
earnings 
per  hour 
(58-hour 
week). 


Cents. 
11.972 
12. 241 
1L517 
11.450 
11.203 
10.819 
ILIOO 
11.553 
12.672 
11.972 
11.903 
n.691 
n.312 
11.588 
12.810 
13.091 
12.426 
12.206 
12.034 
11.655 
11.931 
13.068 
13.444 
12. 724 
12.655 
12. 517 
12. 137 
12. 413 
12.206 
12.672 
11.938 
11.938 
11. 731 
11.312 
11.731 
12.776 
13.091 
12.460 
12. 3,57 
12.357 
11.834 
12.150 

13. 194 
13.510 
12.879 
12.776 
12.672 
12.150 
12.569 
13.614 
14.033 
13.333 
13.298 

13. 195 
12.879 
13. 195 
12.150 


12.150 
12.150 


12. 150 
12.150 
12.372 

14.400 


Piecers' 

earnings 

per  hour 

(58-hoiu: 

week). 


Cents. 
8.379 
9.217 
10. 879 
11.731 
12.569 
13.407 
13. 407 
8.379 
9.217 
10.893 
11.731 
12.569 
13.407 
13.407 
8.379 
9.217 
10.893 
11.586 
12.414 
13.241 
13.242 
8.275 
9.103 
10.758 
11.586 
12. 413 
13.241 
13. 241 
8.275 
9.217 
10.893 
11.731 
12.669 
13. 407 
13. 407 
8.379 
9.217 
10.893 
11.731 
12.569 
13.407 
13.407 
8.397 
9.217 
10.893 
11.731 
12.571 
13.407 
13.407 
8.379 
9.217 
10.893 
11.731 
12.569 
13. 407 
13.407 
12.150 


12.150 
12.150  . 


Total 
labor  per 
houri  (58- 
hour 
week). 


12.150 
12. 150  : 
12.600 

12.600 


Cents. 
20.352 
2L458 
22.396 
23.181 
23.772 
24.226 
24.607 
19.932 
21.890 
22.860 
23.634 
24.260 
24.719 

2L190 

22.309 

«3.319 

23.793 

24.448 

24.896 

25.172 

21.344 

22.348 

23.482 

24.241 

24.931 

25.379 

25.655 

20.482 

21.890 

22.831 

23.669 

24.300 

24.719 

25.138 

21.155 

22.309 

23.353 

24.088 

24.926 

25.241 

25.657 

21.591 

22.727 

23.772 

24.507 

25.243 

26.557 

25.970 

21.993 

23.250 

24.226 

25.029 

25.764 

26.286 

26.612 

24.30Q 


24.300 


24.300 


24.300 
24.  .300 
24.972 

27.000 


» Does  not  include  foremen- 


784 

Table  31. 

ning  yuams 


BEPORT  OP  TABIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE   K. 

■Efficiency  ofnmcMnery  and  opcrativcM  <md  rates  of  pay  to  operatives  for  spin-' 
tma  in  MyMersfield,  Colne  Valley,  and  Bradford  dutricts— Continued. 


Material. 


Yarn  No. 


Time  of 
draw. 


LcH'gtli 
of  draw. 


Rag  wool   and 
New  Zealand 
Cfossbred. 
Do 

Do 

Do 

Rag  wool  and 

cotton. 
Rag  wool 


Seamda. 

8W. 

30 

16  W. 

40 

24  W. 

30 

16  F. 

40 

16  F. 

20  23 

8F. 

26  28 

Ft.  in. 

5  8 

5  6 

6  6 

6  6 

7  0 
7  0 


Spindles 
tended. 


660 
720 
720 
720 

650 
550 


Produced 
per  hour 
all  spin* 
dies  (58- 
hour 
week). 


46.296 

24.667 

26.704 

•    16.028 

31.192 
51.376 


Spinners' 
eirnings 
per  hour 
(58-hour 
week). 


Cents. 

i2.eoo 

12.896 

14.511 

9.8SC 

12.039 
12.039 


Piecers' 
earnings 
per  hour 
(58-hour 


Onto. 

12.600 

12.600 

12.933 

9.720 

12.039 
12.039 


Total 

labor  per 

hour  (58 

hour 

week). 


Cent*. 
25.200 
25.496 
27.450 
19.606 

24.077 
24.077 


Wages  in  a  number  of  wool-scouring  and  top-making  establish- 
ments in  the  Bradford  district  of  England  are  tabulated  below. 

H  will  be  noted  that  night  rates  are  nearly  double  the  day  rates, 
except  in  such  occupations  as  bowl  feeders,  etc.,  when  the  operation 
is  continuous  throughout  the  24  hours. 


Table  32.- 


■  Comparative  rates  of  pay  in  representative  combing  and  scouring  and  top- 
making  establishments  in  Bradford,  England. 


Wages  per  week. 

OccupatJons. 

Firm  No.  1. 

Finn  No.  2. 

Firm  No.  3. 

Firm  No.  4. 

Day. 

Night. 

Day. 

Kight. 

Day. 

Night. 

Day. 

Night. 

Backwashers 

$3.28 
3.65 

SC.08 

5.84 

« 

Back-end  minders 

$0.18  1     £{.  41 

$4.86 

16.33 

Medium 

6.{« 
6.74 
5.»i 
7.18 
6.84 
6.33 
6.59 
6.33 
6.70 

16.08 
6.84 

t6.28 

Botany 

Oill-box  minders 

3.28 

3.16 
3.53 
4.86 
3.41 

6.33 
6.33 
6.08 

Comb  minders 

3.77 
5.84 

'"'6.'57* 

Ck80 
6.82 
6.80 

6.67 
e.57 
6.32 
6.59 
6.32 

7.55 
7.06 
6.82 

Jobbers 

Backwash  minders. 

6.44 

Medium 

Botany 

Making-up  box  mindef^ 

Ofler 

4.30 
5.94 
6.68 
6.67 

BiBBkers^ff 

! 

Punch  m  inders 

6.67  1      3.41 

6.32 

6.28 

Man  on  drier 

4. 38 
"   '6.33 

Man  carries  wool  to  bins 

5.70 

'  G.'57' 



Bowl  minders 

7.28 

6.77 
6.37 

7.26 

6.08 

6.57 

"""7."  27' 

""him 

Bowl  feeders: 

Medium 

Botany 

StWDei-s: 

Medium 

Botany 

6.77  ' 

6.77 

6.59 

5.72  1 

6.59 

5.72 

5.72 

6.57 
6.57  ' 
6.96 
0.69 

1 

Washhouse  jobber 

i 

6.77 

Card  jobbers 

1 

Burr  takers  out 

6.11 
4.38 

5.71 
6.50 

Shoddy  willeyers 

"'6.28 

Burr  willeyers : 

Wool  runners  into  cards 

5.84 

4.87 

6.72 

6.28 

Comb  minders; 

Medium 

Botany 

Finish ine-tx>x  minders 

3.16 

6.08 

5.84 

&  rii 

e    no 

Backwash  jobbcsx 

6.59          6.08 

EEPORT  OF  TAEIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K.        786 

Table  32. — Comparative  rates  of  pay  in  representative  combing  and  scouring  and  top- 
making  establishments  in  Bradford,  England — Continued. 


Wages  per  week. 

Occupations. 

Firm  No.  1. 

Finn  No.  2. 

Firm  No.  3. 

Firm  No.  4. 

Day.     Night. 

Day. 

Night. 

Day. 

Night. 

Day. 

Night. 

Ball  doffers: 

Medium 

- 

$6.20 

$6.20 
6.08 
5.72 

Botany 

6.08 
6.72 

Pickers 

Steeper  and  feeder 

$5.00 
6.08 
7.06 
5.11 
3.53 
3.41 

$6.08 

•>•••••• 

Jobber  and  roller  lapper 

Strippers  and  grinders 

""5.'84" 

$7.06 
4.38 

Card  feeders 

$6.08 

""*6.'59" 

$6.78 

Shoddy  t-akers  out 

1 

Middle  minders 

•• 

Btrong-box  minders 

5.S4 

6.28 

Repairing  jobber 

6.43 
6.67 
6.67 
0.43 

Combing  jobber 

Preparing  jobber 

Odd  jobber 

Feeders 

4.80 

4.87 

0.32 
6.94 

Minders,  Noble  comb 

•••••.•• 

Jobbers'  assistants 

6.08 
6.28 
6.28 
6.28 
5.78 
6.60 

Finishing  jobber 

Noil  carrier 

Can  wheeler 

Cot  man 

1 

U  nderman 

i     

WOOLEN    AND    WORSTED    SPINNERS'    WAGES    AT    VERVIERS,    BELGIUM. 

The  woolen  and  worsted  spinning  mills  of  Verviers,  Belgium,  are 
operated  day  and  night ;  six  day  shifts  and  five  night  shifts  per  week. 
The  hours  on  the  day  shift  are  63  per  week;  on  the  night  shift  50  hours. 
The  day  crews  of  one  week  become  the  night  crews  of  the  next, 
except  for  boys  under  16  and  women  under  21  who  are  not  permitted 
by  law  to  work  nights.  This  legal  prohibition  makes  it  necessary,  of 
course,  for  such  as  would  otherwise  alternate  with  such  boys  and  young 
women,  to  work  nights  regularly. 

Under  normal  conditions  a  worsted  yarn  mule  spinner  in  Verviers 
will  earn  $1.35  per  dav,  and  as  he  has  six  days'  and  five  nights*  work 
in  two  weeks  his  weekly  earnings  averaged  over  the  two  weeks  would' 
be  $7.42.  He  has  four  piecers,  one  of  whom  is  considered  the  head 
piecer,  but  is  really  an  assistant  or  second  spinner,  and  gets  80  per  cent 
of  the  spinner's  wages,  or  $5.94  per  week;  three  piecers  each  get  70  per 
cent,  or  $5.19  a  week;  the  day  alley  boy  would  get  35  per  cent,  or  $2.59, 
whUe  the  alley  boy  on  the  night  sliift  would  receive  40  per  cent  on  the 
spinners'  earnings,  or  $2.97  per  week. 

Spinners  operate  two  mules  of  usually  600  spindles  each.  Where 
older  and  smaller  mules  are  operated  the  rate  per  pound  of  product 
IS  higher  so  that  earnings  are  about  equahzed.  It  is  mutually  agreed 
between  employers  and  employees  through  their  organizations  that 
the  minimum  earnings  for  a  spinner  shall  be  $1.25  per  day,  and  the 
rates  on  old  ornew  macliines  are  fixed  to  safeguard  this  minimum  wage. 
Practically  all  spinning  of  worsted  and  woolen  yarn  in  this  locahty  is 
mule  spinning,  there  being  very  Kttle  ring  spinning  in  Verviers,  and 
such  as  there  is  in  worsted  yarns  is  on  yarns  approximately  our  No.  23. 
In  this  locality  mule  spinners  are  always  men. 


786 


REPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


The  occupations  in  all  processes  preparatory  to  spiiminff  are  filled 
by  women,  who  are  paid  by  the  cfay.  Women  carders  receive 
ordinarily  50  cents  per  aav;  combine  machine  operators  are  paid  from 
52  to  63  cents,  though  a  few  get  as  low  as  48  cents,  the  average  being 
approximately  57  cents  a  day.  Women  employed  at  doublmg  and 
twisting  earn  from  73  to  77  cents  a  day, 

For  spinners  of  carded  woolen  yarn  the  hours  of  labor  for  the  day 
shift  are  as  follows:  On  Mondays,  8  a.  m.  to  12  m.,  1  to  4  p.  m.,  4.15 
to  6.30  p.  m.  On  other  week  aays,  6  to  8  a.  m.,  8.30  to  12  m.,  1  to  4 
p.  m.,  and  4.15  to  6.30  p.  m.  This  is  a  total  of  63  hours  per  week. 
The  night  shift  begins  work  at  7  p.  ni.  and  continues  until  6  a.  m., 
with  15  minutes'  pause  at  9  p.  m.,  30  minutes'  at  midnight,  and  15 
minutes'  at  4  a.  m.;  but  on  Saturdays  work  begins  at  7  p.  m.  and  ends 
at  midniglit.  Hence  the  night  shift  works  5 J  days,  or  55  hours  per 
week. 

The  owners  of  woolen  yaraspiiming  establishments  at  Verviers  have 
come  to  recognize  the  following  minimum  daily  wage  scale,  ialthough 
all  of  them  provide  for  a  piece  rate  that  enables  the  more  efficient 
operatives  to  earn  more  than  the  indicated  amounts. 

Dmly  imnimwn  waff  en  in  wookn  yam  spinning  mills  at  Verpiers,  Belgium, 

Spinner  operating  2  mules $a  8685 

Frame  spinner 8685 

Spinner  operating  1  mule 7720 

Head  piecer 7237 

Head  piecer  on  doubling  and  twigting  framas 7720 

Piecers  tending  about  200  spindles 6672 

Doff  era  or  bobbin  boys .  3860 

Card  cleaners 8685 

Card  tenders: 

On  69-inch  cylinder 9650 

On  59-inch  cylinder 8685 

On  49-inch  cylinder 8202 

On  39-inch  cylinder 7720 

First  breaker  or  blender 7720 

Other  breakers  or  blenders 7237 

Packers  (male) 7720 

Winders  and  bobbin  menders  (female) 5790 

Head  charwoman 5790 

Second  charwoman  and  seamstrefls 5307 

Spinner  operating  doubling  or  twisting  frame 9650 

liriater  (male  or  female): 

On  frames  with  100  spindles .  5790 

On  framee  with  over  100  spindles 6755 

On  frames  with  over  150  spindles 772O 

Day  laborers  (male)  of  all  sorts 7720 

The  figures  already  given  make  it  evident  thafc  wages  in  the  worsted 
industiT  are  higher  than  in  the  woolen  industry. 

The  follomng  table  indicates  the  rates  paid  the  spinner  in  one  of 
the  lar^e  worsted  spinning  mills  of  Verviers.  The  wages  of  piecers 
and  bobbin  boys  are  proportionate  to  the  spinners'  wages.  Inas- 
much as  the  other  members  of  the  group  receive  a  total  of  329  per 
cent  of  the  spinner's  wage,  tlie  total  cost  for  mule  spinning  would 
be  429  per  cent  of  the  indicated  figures.  Wlien  each  mule  has  but 
540  spindles  instead  of  600,  the  rates  are  increased  10  per  cent.  For 
employees  working  only  by  day  and  not  taking  their  turn  at  night 
work,  the  rate  is  decreased  5  per  cent. 


BEPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  OIJT  SCHEDULE   K. 


787 


Table  33. — Spinners^  rates  for  spinning  worsted  yam  (on  mules)  in  establishment  A, 

at  Verviers,  Belgium. 


Count  of  yam. 


I 


Inter- 
Oft- 
tional 
count. 


15 
16 

19 
20 
21 
22 

23 
24 
25 
26 
27 
28 
29 
30 
31 
32 
33 
34 
35 
36 
37 


Near- 
est 
Ameri- 
oan. 


13.29 

14.18 

15.06 

15.95 

16.85 

17.72 

18.61 

19.49 

20.38 

21.26 

22.15 

23.05 

23.92 

24.80 

25.70 

26.58 

27.47 

28.35 

29.24 

80.12 

31.01 

31.90 

32.78 


Un- 
dyed 
me- 
rino, 
per  100 
lbs. 


Cents. 
19.3 
19.3 
20.1 
21.0 
21.9 
22.8 
24.5 
25.4 
26.3 
27.6 
28.9 
29.8 
31.5 
32.4 
33.3 
34.6 
35.9 
36.8 
38.1 
39.4 
4a3 
41.6 
42.9 


Un- 
dyed 
me- 
rino 
(half 
warp) 
per  100 
lbs. 


Cents. 
19.3 
19.3 
20.1 
21.0 
21.9 
22.8 
24.5 
26.4 
26.3 
28.0 
29.3 
30.6 
32.0 
33.3 
34.6 
35.9 
37.2 
38.5 
39.8 
41.1 
42.5 
43.8 
45.1 


Dyed 
me- 
rino, 

T>er  100 
lbs. 


Cenis. 
26.3 
26.3 
27.1 
27.1 
28.0 
28.0 
28.9 
30.2 
31.1 
32.4 
33.7 
34.6 
37.6 
38.5 
39.8 
40.7 
42.0 
43.3 
44.2 
45.5 
46.4 
47.7 
48.6 


Un- 
dyed 
chev- 
iot, 
per  100 
lbs. 


Cents. 
19.3 
19.3 
20.1 
21.0 
21.9 
29.8 
30,6 
32.4 
33.3 
34.6 
35.9 
38.5 
40.3 
41.1 
42.5 
43.8 
44.6 
46.8 
47.7 
49.0 
50.3 
51.2 
53.0 


Col- 
ored 
chev- 
iot, 
per 

loo 

lbs. 


Coimt  of  yam. 


Cents. 
28.0 
28.0 
28.9 
29.8 
30.6 
32.4 
33.7 
35.0 
35.9 
39.4 
40.3 
41.0 
42.9 
43.8 
45.5 
46.4 
48.1 
49.0 
49.9 
51.7 
52.5 
54.3 
56.0 


Inter- 
na- 
tional 
coimt. 


Near- 
est 
Ameri- 
can. 


Un- 
dyed 
me- 
rino, 
per  100 
lbs. 


Un- 
dyed 
me- 
rino 
(half 
warp), 
per  100 
lbs. 


38 

39 

40 

41 

42 

43 

44 

45 

46 

47 

48 

49 

50 

51 

52 

53 

54 

55 

56 

57 

58 

69 

60 


33.66 

34.55 

35.44 

36.33 

37.21 

38.10 

38.95 

39.87 

40.76 

41.64 

42.53 

43.41 

44.30 

45.19 

46.07 

46.96 

47.84 

48.73 

49.62 

50.50 

51.32 

52.27 

53.16 


Cents. 
43.8 
44.6 
46.4 
47.3 
48.1 
49.9 
50.8 
51.7 
53.4 
64.3 
55.2 
56.9 
57.8 
68.7 
60.4 
61.3 
62.2 
63.9 
64.8 
65.7 
67.0 
68.3 
74.4 


CeTUs 
46.4 
47.7 
49.0 
50.3 
61.7 
53.0 
64.3 
55.6 
56.9 
58.2 
69.7 
60.8 
62.2 
63.5 
64.8 
66.1 
67.4 
68.7 
70.0 
71.3 
72.7 
74.0 
80.1 


Dyed 

me- 
rino, 
per  100 
lbs. 


tJn- 
dyed 
chev- 
iot, 
per  100 
lbs. 


Cents. 
49.9 
51.2 
56.9 
58.2 
59.1 
60.4 
61.3 
62.2 
63.5 
64.8 
66.1 
67.0 
68.3 
71.8 
72.7 
74.0 
74.8 
76.2 
77.5 


Cents. 
53.8 
56.0 
57.8 


Col- 
ored 
chev- 
iot, 
per 
100 
lbs. 


Cents. 

57.8 
58.7 
59.5 


Note.— The  rate  is  per  100  pounds.    Each  mule  has  600  spindles.    The  group  for  2  mules  of  GOO  spindles 


each  consists  of:  1  spmncr;  1  head  piocer,  receiving  SO  per  cent  of  the  spinner's  wages;  3  piecers,  each  receiv- 
nt  of  the  spinner's  wagt^s;  and  1  bobbin  boy,  receiving  39  per  cent  of  the  spinner's  wages. 


tag  70  per  cent 


BYEnrG  ABTD  FIWISHIira. 


The  color  element  in  woolen  and  worsted  goods  may  be  secured  in 
many  different  ways.  The  principal  systems  are  (1)  dyeing  in  the 
wool,  or  raw  material;  (2)  too  dyeing;  (3)  yarn  dyeing;  (4)  cross 
dyeing;  (5)  mixed  or  union  ayeing;  and  (6)  piece  dyeing.  Occa- 
sionally combinations  of  these  may  occur  in  the  same  piece  of  cloth. 

Wool  dyeing  is  a  process  of  coloring  the  loose  raw  material  before 
any  of  the  manufacturing  stages  except  that  of  scouring  have  been- 
reached.     It  is  done  in  open  vats  or  in  pans  with  perforated  bottoms 
when  done  by  the  so-called  hand  process.     Wool  dyeing  is  also  largely 
done  by  machinery. 

Top  dveing,  sometimes  called  slub  dyeing,  is  the  process  of  dyeing 
the  wool  in  the  tops  or  before  it  reaches  the  yarn  stage  of  manufac- 
ture. In  tliis  way  a  number  of  colors  can  be  most  skillfully  blended 
into  the  single  thread  of  yarn,  so  that  when  woven  into  cloth  an  even 
mottled  or  mixed  color  can  be  produced  with  one  thread  and  one  shut- 
tle which  it  would  be  impossible  to  produce  by  different  colored  yarns. 
This  mottled  yam  is  used  to  considerable  extent  in  the  United 
States,  but  is  being  developed  to  a  remarkable  degree  in  German 
yarn  spinning  establishments  and  goes  far  to  explain  the  cheapness 
and  rapidity  with  which  much  of  the  ''novelty  weave"  goods  can 
be  produced  there. 

Where  yarns  are  spun  from  the  natural  wool — that  is,  no  coloring 
material  applied  before  the  final  finishing  of  the  yarns — they  are  known 
as  ''yams  in  the  gray''  or  "in  the  white."    Goods  are  woven  "in  the 


788 


KEPOKT  OF  TAKIFF  BOAED   ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


white,"  or  from  uncolored  yams  when  "piece  dyeing"  13  to  follow  the 
weaving  process.  But  when  the  color  effect  or  design  intended  for 
the  finished  goods  does  not  permit  of  piece  dyeing,  or  where  a  more 
saturated  or  permanent  color  is  desired,  the  yarn  is  dyed  before  weav- 
ing and  the  colored  threads  of  yam  woven  into  the  pattern  or  the 
cloth. 

Cross  dveing  is  a  term  used  when  cloths  are  made  of  different  mate- 
rials, cotton  and  wool,  or  silk  and  wool  (or  all  three)  when  one  of  the 
materials  is  dyed  before  weaving,  but  with  a  coloring  material  imper- 
vious to  that  to  be  used  for  dyeing  the  piece  as  a  whole.  Thus  silk 
or  cotton  threads,  yam  dyed,  are  woven  into  a  piece  of  woolen  or 
worsted  goods,  the  wool  being  ''woven  in  the  white."  The  whole  is 
then  ''piece  dyed, "  but  only  me  wool  fibera  absorb  the  coloring  mate- 
rial in  the  piece-dyeing  process,  the  silk  or  cotton  (or  in  some  cases 
both  silk  and  cotton)  threads  resisting  the  action  of  the  wool  dyes 
and  remaining  as  before,  thus  giving  two  or  more  strains  of  colonng 
in  a  cut  of  cloth  which  is  in  reality  piece  dyed.  This  is  sometimes 
called  "resist  dyeing."  ^  i'  ^ 

Ulixed  or  union  dyeing  is  where  the  wm)  is  cotton  and  the  weft  or 
filling  is  of  wool  in  some  of  its  forms.  Tne  different  natures  of  the 
vegetable  and  animal  yams  are  such  that  a  woven  piece  can  be  put 
through  a  color  bath,  the  wool  or  animal  fibers  taking  up  practically 
all  of  the  coloring  materials,  the  vegetable  fibers  remammg  almost 
untouched  •  the  piece  is  then  placed  in  another  bath  where  the  cotton 
or  vegetable  fiber  is  colored  while  the  wool  remains  unchanged. 

Piece  dyeing  is  where  the  goods  are  woven  "in  the  gray  "  or  "white" 
and  the  whole  piece  then  subjected  to  the  dyeing  process.  It  is 
machine  work. 

Where  the  material  is  dyed  before  the  final  processes  of  manufac- 
ture have  been  applied,  a  more  permanent  color  must  be  ffiven,  and 
the  color  must  be  "fast  against  or  able  to  resist  the  ruobing  and 
handling  that  come  with  the  various  stages  of  manufacture. 

Using  the  term  "fast "  in  its  teclmical  sense  of  being  impervious  and 
having  power  of  resistance,  it  must  be  apparent  that  when  the  goods 
are  dyed  in  the  wool  the  color  must  be  "fast"  to  the  friction  and  rub' 
bing  It  wiU  get  ia  going  through  aU  the  carding,  slubbing,  spinning,  and 
weaving  processes;  it  must  be  "fast"  to  the  washing,  ruobing,  neat- 
ing,  steaming,  pressing,  and  other  finishing  processes  to  which  it  will 
be  subjected  arter  weaving  or  in  the  finishing  room,  and  then  must  be 
fast    against  the  action  of  the  light  and  of  wear  and  water  (spotting) 


(perspiration) 
other  requirements. 

The  chemical  difficulties  in  the  way  of  satisfactory  dyeing  decrease 
as  the  final  manufacturing  stages  are  reached ;  but  the  physical  diffi- 
culties increase.  It  is  more  difficult  for  the  chemist  to  select  coloring 
materials  that  will  stand  all  of  the  manufacturing  processes  and  give 
eoual  satisfaction  in  the  finished  product  than  it  is  to  select  materials 
wnich  will  serve  the  purpose  of  piece  dyeing.  On  the  other  hand,  it 
is  not  physically  difficult  to  saturate  the  loose  wool  thorouglily  with 
the  color  stuffs  so  that  the  wool  is  dved  in  every  fiber.  When  the 
undyed  wool  is  first  woven  into  cloth,  however,  tlie  difficulty  is  a  phys- 
ical one  as  weU  as  a  chemical  one.    Piece-dyed  goods  are  rarely  dyed 


atory 
kciit    Hail 
BEPOBT  OP  TARIFF   BOARD  ON   SCHEDUtJIlVpbla  VniiJ^it^^ 

New  York 
clear  through,  and  never  dyed  evenly  clear  through.  In  some  cases 
this  wliite  or  undyed  center  of  the  fabric  serves  to  give  a  "live" 
appearance  to  cloths  wliich  in  Germany  is  given  by  dyeing  the  white 
wool  a  more  perfect  or  purer  wliite.  But,  for  the  most  part,  the  fact 
that  piece  dyeing  does  not  penetrate  equally  all  parts  of  the  cloth, 
results  in  the  outer  surface  wearing  off,  leaving  the  surface  gray  before 
the  cloth  has  had  a  considerable  portion  of  the  wear  of  which  it  is 
capable.  Skill  in  piece  dyeing,  therefore,  depends  largely  on  securing 
the  most  thorough  and  even  penetration  of  color  possible.  Time  and 
care  are  elements  in  successful  dyeing  and  finishing  which  can  not  be 
ehminated  by  machines. 

In  the  matter  of  quahty  of  dyestuffs,  Germany  takes  the  lead, 
while  the  matter  of  dyeiog  speciahzation  has  gone  further  in  Eng- 
land than  elsewhere.  Not  only  are  there  establishments  which  do 
only  raw  wool  dyeing,  others  wliich  dye  only  yarns,  while  whole 
groups  of  establishments  do  only  piece  ayeing,  but  even  among  the 
piece-dyeing  establishments  there  are  those  that  dye  only  Mack, 
others  only  blue,  others  only  a  shade,  as  "turkey  red."  This  differ- 
entiation has  been  estabhshed  for  years,  and  generations  have  grown 
up  in  the  dyehouses. 

In  Germany  and  France  dyeing  and  finishing  are  most  commonly 
done  by  the  same  firms,  and  in  some  instances  all  the  processes  of 
manufacture  from  wool  scouring  to  dyeing  and  finishing  are  performed 
under  the  same  roof  as  with  us. 

It  is  alleged  that  as  an  offset  to  the  skill  that  comes  with  specializa- 
tion there  IS  a  lack  of  interest  that  attaches  to  ownership  of  the  mate- 
nal  m  the  dyehouses  of  England  and  Europe  as  against  the  estabhsh- 
ment  dyemg  m  this  country.  That  is  to  say,  the  English  dyeincr 
establishments  do  a  jobbmg  business;  they  dye  goods  on  a  contract 
basis,  havmg  no  property  interest  in  the  goods  themselves.  The 
same  is  true  of  the  finisliing  establishments.  In  the  United  States 
as  a  rule,  the  dyeing  and  finishing  is  done  by  the  firm  wliich  owns  the 
material  and  controls  all  the  processes  of  manufacture.  Here  the 
knowledge  of  the  character  of  tlie  material,  of  the  kind  of  final  finish 
mtended,  etc.,  is  utihzed  at  all  stages,  and  dyeing  is  done  to  better 
purpose  and  with  better  final  effect. 

TT  •  ®i  P^^^^^  ^T  separate  dyeing  and  finishing  establishment  in  the 
United  States  is  at  a  disadvantage  as  compared  \^ith  Enc'lish  and 
continental  dyeing  and  finisliing  plants  from  the  fact  that°so  many 
of  the  great  textile  establishments  do  their  own  dyeing  and  finishing 
thus  leaving  the  pubHc  dyer  with  the  product  only  of  the  smaller 
plants,  each  with  its  particular  class  of  work,  wliich  latter  in  turn 
requu-es  an  equipment  consistmg  of  a  large  variety  of  dyeing  and  fin- 
ishing machiiiery  to  meet  the  almost  endless  fine  of  goods,  most  of 
which  come  in  smaU  quantities,  with  the  result  that  much  valuable 
maclunery  IS  idle  a  large  proportion  of  the  time.  In  addition  to  the 
difference  in  wages  as  between  this  country  and  Europe,  the  distance 
from  the  mills  to  the  dyemg  and  finisliing  estabhshments  entail  heavy 
freight  expenses  and  loss  of  time  of  goods  in  transit.  Nevertheless, 
the  independent  dyemg  and  finishing  estabhshments  seem  to  be 
gl•o^vmg  m  favor  and  one  of  the  largest  separate  dyeing  plants  in  this 
country  is  being  built  m  New  England  by  one  of  the  firms  doing  a  like 
busmess  m  Bradford,  England. 

32080°— H.  Doc.  342, 62-2,  vol  2 12 


790 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON   SCHEDUIiE  K« 


WAGES  m  BYBINO  BSTABUSHMBNTS  IN  ENGLAND,  GKRMANT, 
PRANCE,  BELGIUM,  AND  THE  UNITED  STATES. 

ENGLAND. 

The  minimum  rate  of  wages  for  raw  wool  dyers,  top  or  slub,  and 
for  yam  dyers  in  the  principal  wool  district  of  England  is  24  shillmgs 
(So. 84),  25  shillings  ($6.08),  and  26  shillings  ($6.33)  a  week;  J^e  25- 
shilling  rate  applies  to  panside  men,  machine  men  on  Klauder-Weldon 
machines,  and  to  the  so-called  "makers-up."'  Time  and  a  half  rates 
are  paid  for  all  overtime  after  7  o'clock  p.  m. 

At  Halifax  and  Leeds  the  rates  paid  to  dyers  employed  in  dyeing 
and  finishing  concerns  have  hitherto  been  1  shilling  (24  cents)  per 
week  below  the  Bradford  rates.  The  blue  dyers  form  the  only  ex- 
ception to  this  general  statement.  For  this  class  of  work  the  Leeds 
dyers  receive  24  cents  each  week  more  than  those  of  any  other 
locahty.  At  present  Halifax  rates  are  still  24  cents  below,  but  Leeds 
rates  more  nearly  approximate  Bradford  rates. 

At  Huddersfield  there  are  three  distinct  classes  of  work  done, 
namely,  raw  cotton  and  wool  dyeing,  hank  and  skein  dyeing,  and 
piece  dyeing.  The  recognized  standard  time  rate  for  dyers '  laborers 
m  Huddersfield,  as  it  is  now  also  at  Bradford,  is  $6.33  per  week  of  55 
hours.  Until  October,  1910,  the  standard  rate  was  $5.84 ;  one  large  firm 
paid  $6.33;  and  one  firm  of  silk  dyers  paid  and  still  pays  $6.08  for 
56  hours.  In  July,  1911,  however,  the  rate  of  $6.33  per  week  was 
adopted  in  accordance  with  the  terms  of  a  formal  agreement  between 
the  Master  Dyers'  and  Finishers'  Association  and  the  National 
Society  of  Dyers  and  Finishers.* 

A  few  firms  in  the  Huddersfield  district  still  pay  less  than  $6.33,  but 
the  average  wage  for  men  may  be  safely  put  at  $6.20. 

It  must  be  observed  that  these  particulars  relate  entirely  to  men 
employed  in  dyehouses  not  attached  to  manufacturing  concerns. 
Where  spinners  or  manufacturers  dye  their  own  raw  materials  or 
pieces,  the  conditions  differ  from  those  observed  by  proprietors  of 
what  are  known  as  "countn^"  dyehouses.  Usually  the  wages  are 
lower  and  the  hours  of  labor  those  of  the  mill,  i.  e.,  551  or  58  per  week. 

» The  foUowing  b  th©  t«xt  of  the  wage  ftgreement  mtmnd  to: 

A§rmnent  maie  this  October  27,  WW,  between  the  Master  Duers'  and  Finishers'  A$$ociaihn  and  the  Va//on«l 

Sodetp  of  I^pen  and  Finithert  in  re  Difers'  Labwert, 

1.  An  imntcdiftto  advance  to  be  given  of  Is.  per  week  on  aU  wMes  ond«w  and  including  those  rated  at 
SMa.   Sneii  advance  to  be  paid  from  the  making  up  day  nearest  to  Octobw  27. 

2.  On  July  1, 19U,  that  standard  rate  of  wages  shall  6e  a  minimum  wage  of  2fii.  per  week  for  aUoperatlvea 

i.  On^or*after  ApS  1,  and  prior  to  Julv  1, 19U.  the  mm  to  be  entitled  to  apply  to  the  conciliatton  com- 
mittee or,  failing  aCTeeraeet,  to  an  arbitrator,  with  the  ol>|ect  of  showing  that  the  general  standard  rate  in 
the  Uuddersfteld  totrict  is,  at  the  date  of  application,  25#.  per  week,  and  in  the  event  of  such  rate  being 
shown  the  standard  rate  of  wages,  at  once  to  be  advanced  to  a  rointmum  wage  of  2te.  per  week  for  aU  oper- 

4.  Ovfftim©  to  be  paid  at  the  rate  of  time  and  a  quarter  on  and  after  the  flret  pay  day  foUowing  the  final 
acceptamce  of  this  tgreenient,  overtime  to  commence  after  a  normal  day  has  been  worked. 

5.  AH  night  work  to  be  paid  at  ordinary  ratea  for  all  hours  of  attendance  at  the  mill,  includmg  U  hours 
for  meals,  with  6d .  anight  Inadditioa.  Time  between  Saturday  1  p.  m.  and  6  a.  m.  Monday  to  be  at  the  rato 
of  time  and  a  half;  ou&ide  the  ordinary  hours  of  night  work  thne  and  a  quarter  to  be  paid. 

6.  A  conciliation  committee  to  be  apiwinted  by  both  aides  and  to  consist  of  three  representatives  from 
each  side  and  the  secretaries  for  the  consideration  and  settlement  of  any  question  arising  ont  of  this  agree- 
■•Dt  or  between  any  member  of  the  empioyers'  association  and  his  workpeople,  and  which  can  not  b« 
iCled  by  the  two  secretaries  and  the  parties  concerned.  ..         ^   ,*..  _.*   i.  « 

7.  The  parties  agree  that  any  quesflon  of  deflnttton  or  of  Intention  ansmg  out  of  this  agreemoit  shall 
be  dealt  with  under  clause  6,  or  lailiiig  agreenent  under  that  elaiMe,  shaJJ  be  left  to  the  sote  decision  of 
Mr.  O.  R.  Askwith,  K.  C,  or  an  arbitrator  appointed  by  him;  and  that  he  shall  be  sole  arbitrator  upon 
any  Question  arising  under  clause  3.  .    .  ...        ^        ».•..*    ai.  *i.  • 

8.  This  agreement  to  remain  in  force  for  12  months  from  this  date  and  thereafter  subject  to  three  months' 
notice  on  either  side  to  be  given  in  writing. 


KEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


791 


The  employers  and  the  workmen  through  a  joint  agreement  recognize 
a  standard  of  efficiency  or  of  output  and  mate  it  a  part  of  such  agree- 
ment, as  follows: 

BOTAKY  (COLOKS). 

The  standard  weight  per  panful  shall  be  125  pounds. 
Odd  lots  shall  be  dyed  from  125  pounds  to  135  pounds. 
Odd  lots  over  135  pounds  shall  be  split  into  two  panfuls. 

Odd  lota  in  navies  and  dark  browns  shall  be  dyed  from  125  pounds  to  150  pounds  per 
panful. 

Odd  lots  in  navies  and  dark  browns  over  150  pounds  shall  be  split  into  two  panfuls. 
In  lota  of  1,000  pounds  or  over,  40  pounds  additional  weight  may  be  divided  into 
the  1,000  pounds. 
Should  there  be  over  40  pounds  overweight,  it  shall  be  made  into  another  lot. 

BOTANY   (blacks). 

The  standard  weight  per  panful  shall  be  143  pounda. 
Odd  lota  shall  be  dyed  from  143  poiuids  to  150  pounds. 
Odd  lots  over  150  pounds  shall  be  split  into  two  panfuls. 

In  lots  of  1,000  pounds  or  over,  40  pounds  additional  weight  may  be  divided  into 
the  1,000  pounds. 

Should  there  be  over  40  pounds  additional  weight  it  shall  be  made  into  another  lot. 

CROSS-BRED   (COLOES). 

« 

The  standard  weight  per  panful  shall  be  150  pounds. 
Odd  lots  shall  be  dyed  from  150  to  170  pounds. 
Odd  lots  over  170  pounds  shall  be  split  into  two  panfuls. 

In  lots  of  1,000  pounds  or  over,  44  pounds  additional  weight  may  be  divided  into 
the  1,000  pounds. 

Should  there  be  over  44  pounds  overweight,  it  shall  be  made  into  another  lot. 

CROSS-BRED    (bLACKS). 

The  standard  weight  per  panful  shall  be  166  pounds. 
Odd  lots  shall  be  dyed  from  166  pounds  to  170  pounds. 
Odd  lots  over  170  pounds  shall  be  split  into  two  panfuls. 

In  lots  of  1,000  pounds  or  over,  44  pounds  additional  weight  may  be  divided  into 
the  1,000  pounds. 

Should  there  bo  over  44  pounds  overweight,  it  shall  be  made  into  another  lot. 

ENGLISH   (colors  AND   BLACKS). 

The  standard  weight  per  panful  shall  be  250  pounds. 
Odd  lota  shall  be  dyed  from  250  pounds  to  300  pounds. 
Odd  lots  over  300  pounds  shall  be  split  into  two  panfuls. 

.^^^.  ^P^  ^^  ^'^  pounds  or  over,  80  pounds  additional  weight  may  be  divided  into 
the  1,000  pounds. 

Shoidd  there  be  over  80  pounds  overweight,  it  shall  be  made  into  another  lot. 

FANF17LS   OF   BLACKS   PER   DAY. 

In  the  dyeing  of  blacks,  in  Botany  cross-breds,  and  English,  the  time  allowed  shall 
be  at  the  rates  of  eight  panfuls  per  day  of  13  hours,  the  finishing  to  be  done  jointlv 
between  the  chromers  and  dyers.  10  minutes  extra  shall  be  allowed  for  everv  extra 
turn,  and  for  a  block-up  and  two  turns  30  minutes  extra  shall  be  allowed. 

MOHAIR  AND  MOHAIR  AND  WOOLS. 

The  weight  per  i^auful  shall  not  exceed  400  pounds. 

The  standard  weight  to  be  dyed  in  machines  shall  be'as  follows:  Botanv,  10  pounds 
per  stick;  cross-breds,  12  pounds  per  stick;  English,  14  pounds  per  stick " 


792 


KEPOKT  OF  TAEIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDrLE  K. 


It  was  further  agreed,  that: 

For  tlie  purpose  of  defining  the  claaa  of  wool  being  worked,  the  following  facts  shall 
be  observed:  Wool  of  sixties  counts  and  over  shall  be  classed  as  botanv;  wool  of 
forties  counts  and  below  sixtiea  shall  be  classed  aa  crossbreds;  wool  below  fortiea 
shall  be  classed  aa  English. 

PIECE   DYEING. 

Ill  the  piece-dyemg  establishments,  occupational  lines  were  abol- 
ished by  the  agreement  of  1907,  amending  in  this  particular  the 
a<^©ement  of  1899.  Prior  to  1907  the  wage  rates  attached  to  an  occu- 
pation, and  men  changing  the  character  of  their  work  received  a  dif- 
ferent rate  of  pay.  By  the  amendment  of  1907,  which  is  stili  m  force, 
the  wage  rate  was  made  applicable  to  classes  of  men,  and  the  employ- 
ing firms  reserved  the  right  to  employ  these  men  at  any  work  they 
saw  fit,  so  long  as  they  paid  the  rate.       ^    ^^  .  ,  .,     -r^     j*     i 

The  agreement  between  the  Dyers'  Trade  Unions  and  the  Bradford 
%ers'  Association,  Limited,  provides  for  the  following  classification 
of  employees:  (1)  Men;  (2)  improvers;  (3)  boys. 

Men  shall  be  defined  as  those  receiving  from  26  ehilHcgs  to  28  shilHngs  per  week. 

improvers  are  those  receiving  from  18  shillings  and  under  26  shillings  per  week. 

Bovs  are  those  receiving  10  shillings  and  under  18  ehilhngs  per  week. 

It  is  agreed  that  the  average  rate  of  wages  of  each  separate  group  and  of  the  whole 
Bhall  not  be  reduced  during  the  existence  of  this  arrangement.  ^ 

The  wages  of  boys  and  improvers  shall  be  dealt  TR-ith  in  the  following  manner: 

Boys  shall  commence  at  10  shillings  per  week;  they  shall  be  advanced  2  shillings 
after  one  year's  service  and  1  shilling  per  annum  m  succeeding  years,  but  on  attain- 
ing 18  years  of  age  shaU  receive  18  ehiUings  per  week  «v,:iiir.a.  «ftpr 

The  wages  of  improvers  shall  be  ad\'anced  from  18  shillings  per  week  2  shillings  aft^r 
one  year^  service  in  this  class,  and  1  shilling  per  annum  in  succeeding  years  until 
they  reach  a  wage  of  26  shillings.  ,       , 

Advances  shall  be  made  on  the  Ist  day  in  January  of  each  year.  ,     .  -   , 

In  all  classes  it  is  understood  that  the  rates  stated  are  for  the  branches  classified  as 
Bradford,  with  1  shilUng  less  for  Halifax  and  Leeds  and  2  shillings  less  for  the 
country  branches. 

The  rates  in  piece  dyeing  are  for  ordinary  laborers.  Leading  hands, 
who  number  about  one  in  four,  receive  2  shillings  per  week  more, 
exceptional  hands  getting,  of  course,  a  slight  advance. 

Taking  the  pay  rolls  of  all  the  establishments  party  to  this  agree- 
ment, as  of  January  1,  1911,  we  have  12  establishments  in  the  Brad- 
ford district  employing  2,769  persons,  of  whom  1,955  are  classified  as 
men  i.  e.,  receiving  26  shillings  ($6.33)  or  more  per  week;  457  as 
improvers,  i.  e.,  receiving  18  shillings  ($4,381)  or  more  per  week;  and 
357  boys.  Table  34  shows  the  number  in  each  class  at  each  rate  paid, 
for  the  Bradford  district,  for  the  Leeds  and  Halifax  district,  and  for 
the  establishments  outside  of  those  classed  generally  as  country 
district.'' 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD   ON  SCHEDULE   K. 
Table  34. — Rates  paid  dyehouse  employes  in  spedjied  districts  in  England. 


798 


Men. 

Improvers. 

Boys. 

Town  or  district. 

Num- 
ber. 

Rate  in 

shil- 
lings. 

Ameri- 
can 
equiv- 
alent. 

Num- 
ber. 

Rate  in 
shil- 
lings. 

Ameri- 
can 
equiv- 
alent. 

Num- 
ber. 

Rate  in 
shil- 
lings. 

Ameri- 
can 
equiv- 
alent. 

Bradford 

27 

3 

46 

34 

329 

123 

1,393 

32 
31 
30 
29 

28 
27 
26 

$7,786 
7.542 
7.30 
7.06 
6.82 
6.57 
6.33 

50 
69 
89 
54 
65 
63 
67 

25 
24 
23 
22 
21 
20 
18 

$6,082 
5.84 
5.60 
5.36 
5.113 
4.87 
4.38 

7 

8 

28 

73 

102 

113 

26 

17 
16 
15 
14 
13 
12 
10 

S4.14 
3.89 
3.65 
3.41 
3.16 
2.92 
2.43 

Total  and  average 

1.9o5 

27.14 

6.594 

457 

21.82 

5.31 

357 

12.97  1      3.156 

Leeds  and  Halifax 

1 

7 

5 

5 

80 

67 

338 

31 
30 
29 
28 
27 
26 
25 

7.54 
7.30 
7.06 
6.82 
6.57 
6.33 
6.08 

37 
14 
24 
11 
19 
10 
1 
11 

24 
23 
22 
21 
20 
19 
18 
17 

5.84 
5.60 
6.36 
5.11 
4.87 
4.62 
4.83 
4.14 

1 

2 
11 
10 
20 
26 

16 
15 
14 
13 
12 
11 
10 
9 

3.65 
3.41 
3.16 
2.92 
2.68 
2.43 
2.19 

Total  and  average 

503 

25.6 

6.23 

127 

21.6 

5.25 

70 

11 
12 
44 
25 
35 
17 

12.2        2.97 

Country 

32 

9 

13 

21 

15 

131 

1 

71 

1 

566 

30 

29 

28 

27 

26/6 

26 

25/6 

25 

24/6 

24 

7.30 
7.06 
6.82 
6.57 
6.45 
6.33 
6.20 
6.08 
5.96 
5.84 

20 
21 
15 
20 
27 
21 
1 
16 

23 
22 
21 
20 
19 
18 
17 
16 

5.6i0 
5.36 
5.11 
4.87 
4.62 
4.38 
4.14 
3.89 

15 
14 
13 
12 
11 
10 
9 
8 

3.65 
3.41 
3.16 
2.92 
2.68 
2.43 
2.19 
1.95 

Total  and  average 

860 

24.8 

6.03 

141 

19.9 

4.84 

144 

12.2 

2.97 

From  the  table  it  will  be  seen  that  while  for  dyere  in  Bradford 
classified  as  ''men, ''  i.  e.,  all-around  dyers,  the  range  in  wages  is  from 
26  shiUmgs  to  32  shillings  a  week,  only  27  receive  the  highest,  while 
1,393  receive  the  lowest  rate  for  the  class,  and  the  average  for  the 
1,955  men  is  27.14  shilHngs,  or  $6.59  per  week.  For  improvers  the 
average  is  21.82  shiUings,  or  $5.31.  Here  the  range  is  from  18  to  25 
shiUings,  with  the  number  of  employees  pretty  evenly  distributed 
throughout  the  range.  The  average  wage  for  the  357  boys  is  12.97 
slullmgs  ($3.16).  "^ 

In  the  Leeds  and  HaUfax  districts  only  one  man  gets  the  highest 
rate  of  31  shillings  ($7.54),  while  338  get  the  lowest— 25  shiUings 
($6.08).  The  average  for  the  503  employed  in  the  four  estabhsh- 
ments  m  this  group  is  25.6  sliiUings,  or  $6.23.  In  the  country-district 
group  there  are  8  dyeing  establishments  or  firms,  with  1,145  em- 
ployees. The  average  earnings  of  the  860  of  those  classified  as  men 
are  24.8  shiUmgs,  or  $6.03  per  week.  The  working  hours  of  dyere  in 
England  appear  to  be  as  follows:  From  6  a.  m.  to  6  p.  m.  ^yq  days 
m  the  week,  with  2  hours  out  for  meals  and  "pause^^'  and  5i  hours 
net  work  on  Saturday,  making  a  net  working  week  of  55i  hours.  On 
days  other  than  Saturday,  however,  the  dyers  may  be  held  in  the 
plant  until  7  p.  m.  without  extra  pay;  i.  e.,  overtime  rates  do  not 
begin  until  after  7  p.  m.  The  overtime  rate  is  50  per  cent  advance 
on  regular  rates. 


flf^ 


HEPOBT  OF  TAKIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


CIXXTH   FINISHING,   HUDDERSFIELD. 

Closely  related  to  dyeing  is  the  finisliing  of  manufactured  cloth, 
like  dyeing,  this  is  sometimes  done  by  some  manufacturers  in  their 
'*home'*  finishing  rooms,  while  others  have  no  finisiiing  plant  and 
send  their  woven  pieces  to  the  "country"  finishers  to  oe  finished. 
The  following  are  typical  rates  of  payment  in  ''country"  finishing 
concerns  in  the  Hucldei'sfield  distiict : 

Scourers:  Weekly  wages. 

Foreman $8. 52 

Men 5. 84 

Youths 3.  89 

Warehouse: 

Foreman 6.  57 

Laborers 5. 11  and  $5. 35 

Lads 2. 19  and    2.  92 

Tenterera: 

Leading  hand 5.84 

Laborers 5. 35 

Lads 2.  92 

Menders,  knotters,  burlers  :  women 3. 41  to  $3.  89 

Waahera-off ,  men 5. 35  to    6. 33 

Pressers,  men 8.  52  to    9.  73 

Cutters: 

Ihf  en , --•  7.  79 

Lads' ("tail  tenders) ' 2. 19  to    2.  92 

EAiflers,  men 7.  30 

Perchers,  men 6.57 

Dampers: 

Leading  man 6.  33 

Youths 3.  65 

Blowers: 

Leading  man .' 6. 81 

Lads  and  youths 3. 65  to   4.  87 

Millers: 

Leading  man 6.  81 

Laborers 5. 35  to   5. 84 

DYEHOUSE    CHARGES    IN   ENGIJLND. 

Prices  charged  cloth  manufacturers  hy  the  dyeing  estahlishments 
may  be  of  interest  as  supplementary  to"  the  wages  paid  in  the  dye- 
houses. 

A  compilation  has  therefore  been  made  of  prices  for  dyeing  on  a 
number  of  fabrics  and  in  several  different  establishments. 

The  rates  as  charged  are  per  piece  of  a  specified  maximum  length  on 
cloths  of  specified  width  and  weight.  This  price  per  length  has  been 
reduced  to  price  per  yard,  and  the  rate  stated  in  United  States  money. 

The  other  factors  entering  into  prices  charged  are  shown  in  the 
following  tabulation  of  these  scales. 

The  following  rates  per  yard  are  charged  in  an  English  dyeing  ostab- 

lishment  for  dyeing  luster  and  alpaca  linings  and  Italians  in  54-yard 

lengths  of  specified  width  and  weights: 

Ordinary  finish: 

724nch  black- warp  luster  linings  (28  pounds  per  54  yards) $0. 02704 

72-inch  cross-dye,  common  color  f24  pounds  per  54  yards) 04281 

72-inch  croas-dye,  common  color  (27  pounds  per  54  yards) 04844 

72-inch  cross-dye  navy  (24  poundjs  per  54  yards) .  05295 

72-inch  cross-dye  navy  (27  pounds  per  54  yards) 05745 

72-inch  black-warp  alpaca  linings  (18  pounds  per  54  yardij) 0338O 

72-inch  cross-dye  alpaca,  common  color  (24  pounds  per  54  yards) 06646 

72-inch  navy  (24  pounds  per  54  yards) 07548 

72-inch  black- warp  Italians,  black  (28  pounds  per  54  yards) 02704 

72-inch  white- warp  Italians,  black  (28  pounds  per  54  yards) 03154 


■J 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOAED  ON  SCHEDULE  K.        795 

Permanent  finish: 

72-inch  luster  linings  (all  weights  per  54  yards) $  04845 

72-inch  black-alpaca  (18  pounds  per  54  yards) " "  '  05520 

72-inch  black- warp  Italians,  black  (all  weights  per  54  yards)  ......*.  [ . . .'  *  04844 

72-inch  white-warp  Italians,  common  color  (22  pounds  per  54  yards)" '  "  05069 

72-inch  white-warp  Italians,  extra  colors  (22  pounds  per  54  yards) . . ... '.  06421 

72-inch  white- warp  Italians,  fine  color  (22  pounds  per  54  yards) '..]  [  09125 

Extra  charges  are  made  for  all  weights  above  those  specified:  (a)  Extra  charges  are 
made  for  permanent  finish  in  colors.    (6)  Extra  charges  are  made  for  stripes  and  checks. 

The  following  rates  per  yard  are  charged  in  an  English  dyeing 
estabhshment  for  dyeing  luster  and  alpaca  finings  and  vestings 
(for  America) :  ^ 

Luster  and  alpaca  linings: 

36-inch  luster  linings,  black  warp  black  (15  to  16  pounds  per  54  yards) .  $0.  01464 

36-inch  luster  hmngs,  cross-dye  color  (15  to  16  pounds  per  54  yards)  02478 

36-mch  luster  Imings,  cross-dye  navy  (15  to  16  pounds  per  54  yards) ...  ."  02929 

36-mch  mohair  linings,  black  warp  black  (15  to  16  pounds  per  54  yards)  01915 

36-mch  mohair  linings,  cross-dye  color  (15  to  16  pounds  per  54  vards)  03379 

36-mch  mohair  Immgs,  cross-dye  navy  (15  to  16  pounds  per  54  yards) . .  .'  03830 

^^filv^  ^J^^e!?  ^""^  ^i^Txt' r^'^i    '^^^  "^^  /^^  ^^^  '^^  y^^^«  «v«'  54  yards= 
I0.0S12,  or  $0.00812  per  yard,    \\hite  and  colored  stripes  extra  in  blacks  only. 

Vestings: 

36-inch  luster  brilliantines,  black  warp  black  (65-yard  lengths) $0  00936 

o6-inch  luster  brilliantmes,  cross-dyed  common  color  (65-yard  lengths)  01310 

36-mch  luster  brdliantines,  cros&Kiyed  (65-yard  lengths)  '  01685 

60-inch  luster  brilliantines,  black  warp  black  (65-yard  lengthi) ."  .* 02340 

bO-inch  luster  brilliantines,  cross  dved  common  color  (65-yard  lengths)  .'  03088 

60-incli  luster  brilliantmes,  cross  dyed  (65-yard  lengths)  0346'> 

36-inch  mohair  brilliantines,  black  warp  black  (50-yard  lengdis) ;;;.".'.'  .* 01703 

35-inch  mohair  bnJliantmes,  cross  dyed  common  color  (50-yard  lengths)  .  03163 

36-inch  mohau-  brilliantmes,  cross  dyed  (50-yard  lengths)  03893 

60-mch  mohair  brillkntines,  black  warp  black  (50-yard  lengths) ..'.'.'  '  03772 

60-mch  mohair  bnlliantines,  cross  dyed  common  color  (50-yard  lengths)  '.  04866 

60-mch  mohau-  brilliantmes,  cross  dyed  (50-yard  lengths). ]  05961 

The  following  rates  per  yard  are  charged  in  an  EngHsh  dyeing 
estabhshment  for  dyeing  Botany  weft  cashmeres  in  60-65  yard 
lengths  of  specified  widths  and  weights: 

[27  to  GO  inches  in  width.] 


Number  of  pounds. 


8  pounds 

10  pounds 

12  pounds 

14  pounds 

16  pounds 

18  pounds 

20  pounds 

22  pounds 

24  pounds 

26  pounds 

28  pounds 

30  pounds 

32  pounds 

34  pounds [['. 

And  $0.1218  per  2  pounds  extra. 


Black 
waip 
black. 


$0.01030 
.01404 
.01528 
.01053 
.01778 
.01903 
.02121 
.02240 
.02433 
. 02G20 
.02808 
.02994 
.03182 
.03309 


White 

warp 

black. 


$0.01217 
.01591 
.01716 
.01841 
.02059 
.02184 
.02308 
.02433 
.  02620 
.02808 
.02994 
.03182 
.03369 
.03550 


White. 


Shots  (per  piece  on  color  price) 

Extra  lengths  (per  10  yards  or  part  thereof) ..'."." 

Cross  d yes  (per  piece  less) 

Mohair  stripes  (extra) 

Artifldal  silk  stripes  (extra) '.'.'.'/.'.'.'.. 

RaisinR  (extra) 


$0.01404 
.0177C 
.01965 
.02153 
.02340 
.02527 
.02n4 
.02901 
.03088 
.03276 
.03462 
.a3650 
.03837 
.04024 


Cidors. 


$0.01685 
.02059 
.02246 
.02433 
.02620 
.02808 
.02994 
.03182 
.03369 
.03556 
.03743 
.03930 
.04117 
.04305 


$0. 2433 
.0182 
.1213 
.2433 
.2433 
.6084 


796 


BEPORT  OF  TABIFF  BOAED  ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


The  following  rates  per  jB^rd  are  cliarged  in 'an  English  clyeinj 
establishment  for  dyeing  lusters,  siciliennes,  brilliantines,  cords,  an( 
granadas  of  specified  widtlis: 

Table  35. — Rat£S  charged  fm  dyeing  spceijied  Mnds  of  cloth. 


Indies  ia  widtli. 


SOiBches 

30  inches 

31  and  32  inches 

33  to  36  inches 

37  to  40  inches 

41  to  45  inches 

46  to  50  inches 

61  to  55  Inches 

56  to  60  Indies 


Hates  per  yard  for  kinds  of  cloth  specified. 


White  warp 
luster.i 


White  warp 
luster  sicilicuues.i 


White  irarp  nio- 
liair  brilliantines.* 


White  warp  mo- 
hair sicJlieunes.i 


Cream 

All 

Cream 

All 

Cream 

All 

and 

other 

and 

other 

and 

other 

white. 

oolora. 

white. 

colors. 

white. 

colors. 

$0.01318 

$0.01825 
.02028 
.02129 

.01724 

.01825 

$0.02231 

$0.02535 

$0.02677 

$0.03528 

.02231 

.02535 

.02636 

.02940 

.03ir.3 

.04015 

.02696 

.02M) 

.02940 

.03244 

.036.iO 

.04379 

.02839 

.a3H3 

.03447 

.03751 

.04015 

.04745 

.03042 

.03650 

.04379 

•  tr'^Wjcll 

.04806 

.ft^aw 

.03447 

.03954 

.05231 

.05839 

.05474 

.05%! 

.04055 

.04461 

.05961 

.06569 

.06901 

.06569 

Cre-ain 

and 
white. 


$0.03650 
.04136 
.04379 
.04866 
.05718 
.06448 
.07178 


All 

other 

colors. 


$0.04379 
.fM%6 
.05353 
.05961 
.00448 
.07543 
.08516 


Mohair  brilliant  Ines.t  i 

Mohair  slciliennes  and  corda.i  > 

TiKhes  in  width. 

Common 
colors. 

Extra 
colors. 

Superior 
flni.Hh. 

Tint. 

Common 
colors. 

Extra    '  Superior 
colors,    j    linish. 

Tints. 

32  inches 

$0.02433 
.02920 
.02920 
.03285 
.03650 
.04136 
.04623 

$0.02920 
.03650 
.03650 
.04015 
.04623 
.05110 
.05596 

$0.02190 
.02433 
.02677 
.03163 
.03650 
.04136 
.040X1 

$0.02433 
.02677 
.02920 
.03406 
.03893 
.04379 
.04866 

$0.02920 
.0*150 
.03650 
.04136 
.04623 

.05839 

$0.a3406 
.04379 
.04379 
.05109 
.05596 
.06326 
.06812 

$0.02677 
.02920 
.03163 
.03649 
.04136 
.04623 
.05109 

$0.03163 
.03406 
.03649 
.04136 
.04623 
.05109 
.05596 

33  to  36  inches 

37  to  40  inches 

41  to  45  inches 

46  to  50  inches 

51  to  55  inches 

M  to  60  inches 

Mohair  granadas.  >  > 

Luster  brilliantines.  *  * 

Inehea  In  width. 

Common 
color. 

Extra 
color. 

Superior 
finish. 

Tint. 

Common 
colors. 

Navy,    i  Superior 
green,  "etc.    fihiKh. 

Tint  to 
shades. 

32  inches 

$0.03406 

$0.03893 

$0.03406 
.03650 
.04136 
.04023 
.05353 
.0«»83 
.06569 

$0.03893 
.04136 
.04623 
.05110 
.05839 
.06569 
.07056 

$0.01420 
.01622 
.01825 
.02129 
.03163 
.03850 
.04136 

$0.01825 
.02028 
.02231 
.02531 
.03893 
.04.179 
.048ti6 

SO.  01014 
.01217 
.01420 
.01622 
.02433 
.02920 
.03406 

$0.01419 
.01622 
.02028 
.02231 
.03406 
.03893 
.04379 

33  to  36  inches 

37  to  40  inches 

:;:::::::::::::::::: 

41  to  45  inches 

46  to  50  inches 

SI  to  55  inches 

56  to  60  inches 

.05596 
.07299 
.07299 

.04)560 
.08272 
.06372 

Luster  sicllienne  and  cords. '  »           Luster  granadas.  J  • 

Inches  in  width. 

Common 

OOltMTS. 

Navy, 
green,  etc. 

Superior 
llni.<<h. 

Tint  to 
shades. 

Superior 
finish. 

Tint  to 

shade. 

32  inches 

$0,ni(i%3 

$0.02028 
.02231 
.02531 
.02940 
.04379 
.05353 
.05839 

10.01420 
.01022 
.01825 
.02028 
.02920 
.03406 
.03893 

$0.01825 
.02028 
.02230 
.02839 

.  Of  13«j 
.04C23 
.05109 

$0.02230 

$0  03040 
.03244 

33  to  36  inches 

.01825 

02129 

02531 

03650 

.(M379 

.04866 

37  to  40  inches 

.03650 

41  to  45  inches 



.oio.'Js' 
'04461 

(Mni'i 

46  to  50inchcc 

n44rii 

51  to  55  Inches 

n.*in6Q 

£6  to  60  inches 

flM?.*! 

1  StircharRe:  Higher  rate  is  charged  if  less  than  200  yards  of  a  shade  is  dved. 

«  Dyes:  Common  colors  and  navy  with  white  or  colored  stripes,  extra  "is  charged. 


KEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE   K. 
Table  35. — Bates  charged  for  dying  specified  kinds  of  cloth — Continued. 


797 


Clacks. 


Inches  in  width. 


Not  over— 

32  inches 

36  inches 

40  inches 

45  inches , 

60  inches , 

65  inches. 

60  inches , 

70-80  inches 


Black 

warp 

plain  and 

figured 

alpac  a 

and 
mohair 
brillian- 
tines. 


Black 

warp 
mohair 

and 
alpaca 

sicih- 
ennes. 


Black 

warp 

mohair 

granadas. 


Black 
warp 
luster 
brillian- 
tines. 


Black 
warp 
luster 
sieili- 
ennes. 


$0.01582 
.01703 
.01947 
.02312 
.02677 
.03042 
.03407 
r  .04137 
L    .04867 


$0.02312 
.02655 
.02920 
.03407 
. 03893 
.04380 
.04867 


.05840 


$C.  031C3 


.05353 
.06320 
.06326 


$0.01217 
.01420 
.01622 
.01825 
.02433 
.02677 
.02920 


$0.01420 
.01622 
.01825 
.02231 
.02920 
.03407 
.03898 


Inches  in  width. 


Blacks. 


Black 

warp 

luster 

granadas. 


Half 
mourn- 
ing mo- 
liair  and 
alpaca 
brillian- 
tines. 


Half 
mourn- 
ing mo- 
hair and 
alpaca 
Slcili- 
ennes. 


Not  over — 

32  inches 

36  inches 

40  inches 

45  inches ][[[ j 

f9l?^^^ "I.'.";.*!.'  '$6.04386 

.  05353 
.05353 


65  inches , 

60  inches. 


Half 
mourn- 
ing luster 
brillian- 
tines. 


Half 
mourn- 
ing luster 
slcili- 
ennes. 


$0. 02190 
.02433 
.02920 
.03650 
.04vS67 
.05353 
.05840 


lO-OSCM 
.03893 
.04380 
.05110 
.05840 
.06326 
.06813 


$0.01622 
.01825 
.02231 
.02636 
.03893 
.04380 
.04867 


$0.02433 
.02636 
.03042 
.03650 
J)4867 
.05353 
.05840 


1  ^^i^  ^*^^^"'•  Where  the  weight  exceeds  the  standard  weight  specified  by  the  establishment  for  irlven 
lengths,  extra  is  charged;  longer  lengths  charged  extra  in  proportion.  cocawismncnt  lor  given 

In  many  plants,  in  each  of  the  countries  covered  by  this  report 
dyeing  and  finishing  are  done  in  the  same  establishments.  This  is 
more  generally  true  of  Germany,  France,  and  Belgium  than  of  Encr- 
land.  So  general  is  it,  however,  that  it  has  not  been  found  practical 
to  separate  the  material  for  very  many  plants,  and  from  this  point 
on  the  subjects  will  be  considered  together. 

Cloth  finishing  takes  place  after  the  final  dyeing  in  piece-dyed 
stuff;  or  It  begins  immediately  from  the  loom  in  wool  and  yarn-dyed 

ST'UH . 

Finishing  is  a  general  term  applied  to  a  group  of  operations  and 
processes,  the  first  of  which  is: 

Mending  and  buding  is  the  process  of  correcting  the  mistakes  in 
the  weaving.  It  consists  in  catching  up  broken  or  defective  threads 
of  either  warp  or  weft  and  weaving  in  by  single  threads  with  a  needle 
to  make  good  the  defect.  It  is  handwork,  done  always  and  every- 
where by  women,  and  requires  great  skill  and  dexterity. 

The  next  step  in  the  fiiiisliing  process  after  mending  is  washing  and 
f ullmg.  This  is  machine  work  everywhere,  the  labor  is  paid  by  the 
day  and  not  by  the  piece  or  yard;  it  is  generally  one  person  to  a 


nn 


■EPOBT  OF  TAHIFF  BOABD  OIT  SCHEDULE  K. 


machine,  though  in  some  instances  one  person  to  two  machines.  The 
character  of  the  work  is  such  that  no  study  of  efficiency  or  compara- 
tive output  per  employee  can  be  made.  The  process  cleans  the  cloth 
and  shrmks  or  fulls  it  up  for  further  finishing.  It  can  be  fairly  stated 
that  one  of  the  elements  entering  into  the  finer  finished  German  and 
French  woolen  and  worsted  cloths  is  that  they  are  fulled  up  more — that 
is  there  is  a  greater  percentage  of  shrinka^je  in  the  fulling  process. 
This,  of  course,  means  fewer  yards  of  salable  product  per  yard  of 
loom  production. 

Passing  over  minor  manipulations  through  which  the  cloth  passes, 
and  which  vary  from  firm  to  firm  and  from  cloth  to  cloth,  the  next 
important  process  is  that  of  teasling.  Teasling  is  machine  work,  one 
man  to  one  machine,  and  the  purpose  of  the  operation  is  to  raise  the 
nap  of  the  cloth,  to  give  it  a  fluffy  surface. 

Drying  and  tentering  follows  the  teasling,  and  simply  dries  and 
stretches  the  cloth  for  shearing.  Drying  and  tenteiing  is  done  on 
machines,  usually  two  men  to  one  machine;  it  is  generdlfy  piecework. 
Then  shearing,  which  cuts  down  the  nap  raised  by  the  teasHng  machine 
to  a  proper  and  even  surface.  Tliis  is  machine  work,  done  by  both 
men  and  women,  but  usually  men.  It  is  piecework,  and  usually  one 
man  or  woman  to  a  machine,  sometimes  two  persons  to  one  machine. 

The  final  procesi^  of  pressing  and  glossing  serves  to  shrink  the  cloth 
to  the  proper  dimensions  and  to  give  it  a  gloss  or  surface  finish,  which 
prepares  it  for  the  market. 

DYEING — GERMANY. 

^  As  indicated  above,  the  separate  independent  dveing  establishment 
i»  the  rule  in  Germany  as  in  England,  while  the  dyeing  of  goods  by  the 
doth-making  establishments  is  the  exception. 

In  Crimmitschau,  Saxony,  the  textile  mdustry  covers  the  manufac- 
ture of  both  men's  and  women's  goods  and  the  spinning  of  yarns. 
There  are  80  spinning  establishments,  with  210,000  spmdles,  m  addition 
to  numerous  weaving,  dyeing,  and  finishing  plants.-  Crimmitschau 
exports  yams,  and  does  a  specially  large  export  business  in  men's 
heavy  cloths.  Owing  to  the  proximity  of  so  many  spinning  mills,  as 
well  as  because  of  the  nearness  to  Gera,  which  buys  practically  all  of 
its  yams;  the  dyeing  establishments  of  Crimmitschau,  while  special- 
izing to  some  extent,  do  all  kinds  of  dyeing,  i.  e.,  wool,  yam,  and 
piece  dyeing. 

The  followhag  table  gives  the  daily  hours  of  labor  and  the  weekly 
rate  of  wages  for  each  of  the  49  dyeing  establishments  of  Crimmitschau, 
separating  the  industry  into  its  three  fundamental  branches:  Wool 
dyeing,  piece  dyeing,  and  yam  dyeing.  The  rates  are  those  paid  in 
June,  1911. 


II  m 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOAUD  ON  SCHEDULE   K. 
Table  ^.—  Wages  in  49  d^lng -establishments  in  Crimmitschau,  Get-many. 


799 


Establishment 

1 

2 

8 

4 

5 

C 


Hours 
per  day. 


Wages  per  week. 


Wool  dyers.     Piece  dyers. 


8.. 

9.. 
10.. 
11.. 
12... 
13... 
14... 
16... 
16... 
17... 
18... 
19... 
20... 
21... 
22... 
23... 
24... 
23... 
26... 
27... 
28... 
29... 
30... 
31... 
32... 
33... 
34... 
35... 
30... 
37... 
38... 
39... 
40... 
41 . . . 
42... 
43... 
44... 
45.... 
46.... 
47.... 
4S.... 
49.... 


t4.2S 

'"4.'28 
3.93 

3.57 
3.60 

'4.' id' 
3.81 
4.40 


3.81 

14.65 
2  3. 81 


84.63 
3.81-4.28 
3.93 
3.93 
3.81 
4.05 


Yarn  dyers. 


$4.05-4.28 
4.28 


4.76 


3.93 
4.76 
4.05 


3.93-4.28 

4.40 

4-13 

4.05 

3.80-4.05-1.76 


3.80 


3.81 


3.81 


5.00 
4.40 


4.05 
4.19 
4.05 
4.05 
4.05 
4.52 

'3.2! " 


4.05-4.52 
4.05 
4.19 


4.05 


5.00 
3.45 
4.50 


4.05 


4.  as 

4.29 


4.05 


3.93 
4.  SO 


*  First  hands  get  $5.71. 


*  Foremen  get  $7.14.  «  One  operative  gets  $4.28. 


Further  details  were  secured  concerning  operatives  on  pressing 
machines  and  on  drying  machines  for  live  establishments,  covering 
m  each  case  a  period  of  five  weeks.  These  data  covered  earnings  and 
output  for  the  period,  and  these,  reduced  to  an  average  for  dl  em» 
ployees  concerned,  are  shown  in  the  following  table: 

Table  ^7. —Average  rates  of  wages  for  operatives  on  pressing  and  drying  machines. 


Prcssers. 

Dryers. 

Locality. 

Avorago 

weekly 

wage. 

AvBragc 
hourly 
•w'age. 

SO.  0843 

.108 

Average 

wage  per 

yard  of 

output. 

Average 

wage  per 

100  yards 

of  output. 

Average 
hourly 

wage. 

AvRr^n 

wage  per 

100  yards 

of  output. 

Geni 

$5.53 

7. 56 

$0.000689 
.00065 

$0.0689 
.065 

$0.06C8 
.1646 
.0649 
.0004 
.0906 

Do 

$0.0988 

Do ■; 

.1123 
.0953 

Groiz 

Do ::;;; 

Olanchau 

\    Do ;.;;; 

4.55 

3.79" 

6.95 

.0632 

".087" 
.106 

.00067 

'"".66128*" 
.00164 

'""."667" 

'""".'128' 
.164 

800 


EEPOKT  OP  TABIPF  BOAKD  OX   SCHEDUIjE   IC. 


The  wages  and  production  of  pressers  were  secured  from  a  larger 
number  of  plants  and  are  condensed  in  the  following  table: 

Table  SS.^Pressers^  wages  in  nine  dyeing  and  finishing  estahlishments  in  the  Gera-Greiz 

region. 

[For  the  first  half  of  the  year  1911.] 


Locality. 

Num- 
ber of 

press- 
ers. 

Wages 
per  oper- 
ative per 

hour. 

Yards 
per  oper- 
ative per 

hour. 

Wages  per  100  yards. 

E8tahnf:]iment 
.\o.- 

Plain 
goods. 

Simple 

fold 

goods. 

Book 

fold 

goods. 

Samples. 

1 

Gera 

do 

Glauchau... 
do 

24 
5 

10 
6 
4 

12 
9 

29 

as 

$0.1096 
.1155 
.0932 
.0713 
.1393 
.0765 
.0881 
.1011 
.0833 

149.64 
146.14 
146.88 
105.34 
215.79 
390.84 
149.19 
94.10 
81.42 

SO.  061 
.063 
.064 
.054 
.054 
.039 
.064 
.054 

$0.1210 
.1200 
.1087 
.1087 

$0,110 

•t 

3 

$0.0724 
.0724 

.0724 

.1087 

4 

5 

Weida 

Mvlaui 

Grelz 

Meerane 

do 

C 

.0782 

.1087 
.1631 

1     ...•.•••.•..••- 

.0?24 
.0724 

.1087 
.1087 

8 

9... 

1   

2?e 
v< 


1  The  null  at  Mylau  clearly  does  a  grade  of  work  differing  from  that  of  the  other  mills,  its  output  per 
perative  iier  hour  bemg  390.84  yards,  wiieretis  in  one  of  the  Glauchau  establishments  the  output  per  oviiBr 
ve  per  hour  13 105.34  yards.  r     i       a*    «»■ 


Data  were  secured  covering  wages  and  the  hours  of  labor  of  fullers, 
teaslers,  and  their  helpers,  shearers,  and  other  labor  in  the  finishing 
departments  of  31  establishments  in  and  near  Crimmitschau.  A 
tabulation  of  these  data  follows: 

Table  Z9.— Weekly  wages  of  finishers,  by  specified,  occupations,  in  SI  establishments  in 

Crimmitschau,  Germany, 


Establishment  number. 


Hours 
per 
day. 


1 

2' , 

3 

5 

6 , , . 


B 

9 

10 

11 

12 

13 

1^;;"*;;;;;;;;;^ 

15 , 

10 

17 

IS 

19 

20 

21 

22 

23 

24 

26 

27 

28 

29 

30 

31 ••••..... 


Fullers. 


Fullers' 
helpers. 


lOi 
10| 
104 
10| 
lO-i 
lOl 

11 

io| 

104 
10| 
lOi 
104 

io| 

lOj 
lOi 

10^ 
lOf 
lOJ 

11 

m 

lOJ 


Teaxlers. 


$5.95 
5.47 
4.52 
5.58 
4.56 
4.76 
5.00 
5.24 
4.04 
5.24 
5.00 

5.47 
5.47 

4.52 
5.24 
5.00 
5.24 
4.76 
5.95 
5.00 
4.87 
5.47 
5.00 
5.00 
5.38 

5.47 
5.71 
5.71 


$3.93 
3.33 
2.86 
3.69 
2.92 
3.81 
3.00 
3.81 
3.33 


3.21 

3.09 
4.28 

"3.'33' 
3.33 
3.33 


$4.52 
4.76 
3.93 
5.02 
4.55 
4.64 
4.28 
5.24 


Tcazlers' 
helpers. 


3.66 


3.69 


3.  .33 

3.33 
u.  33 
3.33 
3.93 


4.28 
4.28 
4.76 
5.24 
5.47 
3.81 

"5.06' 
4.28 
5.00 
4.28 

*4.64 
4.64 
3.54 
4.04 
4.04 
4.28 
4.88 
4.88 
4.64 
4.04 
4.04 


$4.04 
2.86 
3.09 

«3.99 
3.33 
3.74 
3.57 
8.09 
3.57 


3.23 
3.33 

3.33 

n'm 

3.09 
3.33 
3.67 
3.81 
3.33 
2.94 
3.21 
3.57 
3.33 
3.09 

s.n 

3.63 


Other 
laborers. 


$3.09 
2.38 
2.63 
3.54 
2.86 
3.45 

«3.09 
4.28 
3.45 
3.93 
2.86 
2.38 
3.86 
3.09 
3,09 

*'Oi" 

3.00 

4.04 
2.86 
4.28 


Piece 
shearers. 


6  2.97 
3.69 

2.80 
•3.09 


4.04 
3.45 
3.57 
4.28 


$2.38 
2.86 
2.73 
2.73 
2.73 
2.86 
2.38 
2.86 
2.38 
2.^ 
2.55 

'  "2;86 
2.56 
2.62 
2.38 
2.50 
2.38 
3.21 
2.86 
2.70 
2.62 
2.40 
3.21 
3.09 
2.62 
2.86 
2.86 
2.74 
2.C2 
2.62 


1  The  number  of  hours  worked  is  9]  on  Saturday. 

»  Minors  receive  $2.62  per  week. 

»  Pressers  rec^jive  $3.09  per  week;  drvinp  machine!  operatives,  S2M  per  week 

<  Wet  teazlers  receive  $4.28  to  $4.52  iw  week;  acid  mijiers  and  carbonizers  receive  $4.52  per  week. 

•  Female  piet«  burlers  receive  $2.31  per  week. 

•  Pressers'  aosistants  receh-e  $3.58  per  week. 


REPORT   OP  TARIFF  BOARD   ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


801 


The  principal  dyeing  and  finishing  establishments  located  in  the 
Gera-Greiz  region  belong  to  an  employers'  association  (Verband 
Sachsisch-Thuringischer  Farbereien)  for  the  promotion  and  defense 
of  their  industrial  interests. 

It  is  customary  in  these  establishments  to  divide  the  employees  in 
three  groups  of  occupations.  One  group  comprises  all  processes 
preparatory  to  finisliing  or  dyeing;  another  group  includes  those 
directly  connected  with  wool  dyeing;  and  the  third  group  embraces 
all  those  required  to  finish  the  goods. 

The  following  table  indicates  for  the  different  sections  of  each  of 
the  25  dyeing  and  finishing  mills  in  this  region  the  number  of  hours 
worked  per  week,  excluding  pauses,  the  highest  and  lowest  weekly 
wages  for  fuU-time  male  and  female  operatives  during  the  first  three 
months  of  1911,  and  the  rate  per  hour  paid  overtime  work. 

Table  40.— Wages  for  time  workers  in  the  employ  of  25  estahlishments  belonging  to  the 

Saxon- Thuringian  Master  Dijcrs-'  Association. 

[As  reported  for  the  first  three  months  of  1911.]  • 

PROCESSES  PRELIMINARY  TO  FINISHING. 


Estab- 
lishment 
No. 


Locality. 


1 

Gera 

do 

2 

3 

do 

4 

...  -do 

6 

.  ..  do 

6 

do ... 

7 

8 

9 

10 

12 

13 

Glauchau... 

do 

do 

do 

Greiz 

...  .do 

14 

15 

16 

do 

Meerane 

17 

18 

20 

21 

22 

Mohlsdorf. . . 

Mylau 

Netzschkau. 
Reichenbach 

-  -  -    _  do    « 

23 

do 

24 

Weida 

Hours  per  week. 


Males. 


02 

02 

59 

59^ 

60 

59 

62 

62 

62 

62 

62 

62 

62 

61 

62 

62 

66 

65 

65 

63 

65 

63 


Fe- 
males. 


Weekly  wages. 


Highest. 


Males. 


58 

57i 

58 

59 

57 

58 


58i 


57| 

571 

571 

57J 

58 

58 


58 
58 
58 


$3.71 
4.28 
3.81 
3.67 
4.00 
4.76 
4.20 
4.28 
6.00 
4.14 
3.57 
3.78 
3.86 
4.14 
4.67 
4.28 
3.78 
3.60 
4.21 
5.00 
5.71 
3.57 


Fe- 
males. 


$2.43 
2.28 
2.14 
2.14 
2.14 
2.57 


2.28 

"2.'28" 
2.14 
2.57 
2.86 
2.14 
2.71 


2.64 
2.43 
2.36 


Lowest. 


Males. 


$3.57 
3.71 
3.81 
3.43 
3.57 
3.57 
4.20 
3.71 
3.71 
3.81 
3.51 
3.57 
3.28 
3.14 
3.14 
3.71 
3.78 
3.50 
3.78 
3.57 
3.00 
3.57 


maL.   F">°i- 


Hourly  overtime  rate. 


Males. 


Females. 


$2.43 
2.14 
2.14 
2.14 
2.14 
2.14 


2.28 


2.14 
2.14 
2.28 
2.43 
2.14 
2.57 


2.64 
2.43 
2.  .36 


Cents. 
7.6 
7.0 


To— 


7.1 

7.1 
7.9 

"7.1 
7.4 
6.9 
6.9 


7.4 
7.9 
7.1 
6.4 


6.2 
6.9 
5.9 


Cents. 
7.9 
8.3 
7.5 
7.9 
7.9 
9.8 
9.5 
8.1 
9.3 
9.0 
8.3 


From—  To— 


Cents. 


9.0 

11.2 

11.7 

7.9 

9.3 

5.9 

7.4 

9.0 

10.2 

6.9 


4.5 


5.5 


4.8 


5.7 
5.9 
5.5 

4.8 


4.6 


Cents, 
5.5 
4.8 
4.5 
4.3 
4.8 
6.2 


4.8 

*  >■  •  • 

6.2 


7.1 
6.7 
7.9 
5.5 


5.1 
5.9 
4.8 


80^ 


MBPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  X. 


Tabli  40. — 


Wa^eifor  ^ims  worhm  m  ihe  empiou  of  fS  eatabli$hmmiM  Mm%finf^  to  the 
Samn-Thurinffimi  Master  Dyers'  Association— Contmuad. 


WOOL  DYKING  (MALES  ONI.Y). 


EstfflWishment  No.— 


1. 

n 

4 

5. 

i. 

7. 
8. 


9 

10 

11 

12 

13 

14 

15 

16 

17 

18 

21 

22. 

23 

24 

25.-..?. 


Locality. 


Oefs 

do... 

do 

do 

do — 

do 

Gktieliaij. 
do 


do 

do 

do 

GreJz 

do 

do 

Meerane 

do 

Mohlsdorf 

Mylau 

Keicbenbach. 

do 

do 


Weida. . 
Gossnitz. 


Hoturl 
per 


Wcs0'kly  wages. 


Hjgbeat. 


ml 
m 

62 

62 
62 
62 
6S 
62 

m 

62 
62 

m 
m 
m 

06 
63 


18. 03 
4.43 
3.81 
a.  71 
414 
4.28 
400 
423 
457 
400 

S.75 

3.78 

428 
400 
S.43 
X78 
421 
4  21 
3.78 
420 
405 


Lowest. 


83.57 
3.71 
3.81 
3.50 
3.57 
8.78 
400 
3.57 
3.71 
3.14 
3.71 
8.00 
3.43 
3.57 
3.00 
3.14 
3.43 
3.57 
3.64 
3.14 
3.43 
3.14 
3.86 


Hourly    overtime 
rate. 


From- 


Cent$. 
7.6 
7.4 


7.6 


8.1 

6.9 
8.1 
5.7 
6.9 
7.4 
9.0 
6.7 
7.1 
7.9 
6.4 
9.0 
5.9 
5.5 


6.2 
9.0 


To— 


8.3 
8.41 


8.7 


8.1 
9.0 
9.5 
8.S 
8.8 
8.6 
9.5 
8.1 
10.7 
10.7 
6.4 
0.4 
7.6 
7.6 


7.6 
9.5 


FINISHING. 


Hourly  overtime  rate. 


SstabliBb- 
meot 

Mo.— 


mm* 


7 

§ 

IP..  ...... 

11 

12 

I'd  ........ 

14 

15 

16 

17 

IS 

19 

20 

21 

22 

23 

24 

mHIv  W    •    W    >•   W   *   I 


Locality. 


Gera 

do 

, . ..  .do 

do 

do.... 

do.... 


Glauebau... 
do 

....  do. ...... 

■•  .    .   .    *  *>w^r .  .  .  .   <■  «  . 

do 

Greiz 

do 

Meerane 

do 

Mobkdorf. .. 

Mylau 

do 

Netzsehkaii . 
Reiehenbach 

do 

— do 

Weida 

Gossnitz..., 


EEPORT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  OH  SCHEDULE  K. 


8oa 


The  dyeing  and  finishing  establishments  belonging  to  tne  above- 
named  association  of  employers  have  a  total  of  7,173  operatives,  of 
whom  4,949  are  males  ana  2,224  are  females.  Table  40  is  based 
upon  data  from  1,558,  or  21.7  per  cent  of  the  total  number  of 
operatives  in  these  establishments.  The  table  clearly  indicates 
that  wages  do  not  vary  greatly  from  plant  to  plant  within  the 
area  concerned.  The  weekly  earnings  of  male  laborers  range  from 
$3  to  $5.93;  those  of  female  o|)eratives  range  from  $2  to  $2.86. 
The  hourly  wages  of  males,  working  62  hours  per  week,  generally 
range  from  5i  cents  (23  pfennigs)  to  6.42  cents  (27  pfennigs); 
,w^hereas  the  rate  per  hour  for  females,  working  58  hours  per  week, 
ranges  as  a  rule  from  3.45  cents  (14i  pfennigs)  to  3.93  cents  (16J 
pfennigs).  Somewhat  higher  wages — or  $4.05  (17  marks)  to  $5.71 
(24  marks)  per  week — are  paid  oi3y  to  first  hands  and  to  more  expe- 
rienced operatives. 

1^  Since  1905  there  has  been  an  agreement  among  the  members  of 
,the  association  to  pay  a  minnnum  weekly  wage  of  $3.45  (14.49  marks) 
to  male  operatives,  and  of  $1.90  (8  marks)  to  female  operatives. 
This  minimum  wage,  however,  does  not  apply  to  employees  who  have 
been  in  the  business  less  than  six  montns;  for  such  operatives  the 
minimum  wage  is  10  per  cent  less. 

F  Note. — The  wage  agreement  between  the  German  Textile  Workers  Aseociatian  and 
the  Association  of  Yam  Dyers  and  Finishers  in  Glauchau,  Meerane,  and  environs, 
was  renewed  in  September,  1911,  with  certain  modifications.  The  principal  modi- 
fications in  the  agreement  are  as  follows: 

»■  The  minimum  wage  per  hour  for  finishers  shall  amount,  after  April  1,  1912.  to  34 
to  36  pfennigs;  for  helpers  in  scouring  and  finishing,  30^  pfennigs;  for  operatives  in 
hand  ayeing  establishments,  32  pfennigs;  for  silk-dyeing  operatives,  30  to  32  pfennigs; 
and  for  female  operatives  in  all  branches,  17^  pfennigs.  On  the  1st  of  October,  1911, 
the  wages  of  operatives  in  yarn-dyeing  mills  were  increased  2  pfennigs  per  hour,  and 
on  the  1st  of  April,  1912,  they  shall  be  increased  an  additional  pfennig.  From  the 
1st  of  January,  1912,  operatives  in  finishing  miUs  or  departments  will  receive  2  pfen- 
nigs more  per  hour,  and  from  April  1,  1912,  one  pfennig  more  per  hour.  Female 
operatives  m  yam-dyeing  works  shall  receive  from  the  Ist  of  October,  1911, 1  pfennig 
additional  per  hour,  and  female  operatives  in  finishing  works  shall  receive  from  the 
Ifll  of  January,  1912,  one  pfennig  more  per  hour. 

In  three  establishments  in  Reiehenbach  doing  both  dyeing  and 
finishing,  wages  were  increased  in  August,  1911,  as  a  result  of  a  strike, 
so  that  employees  previously  receiving  2.90  marks  (69  cents)  per  day 
were  raised  to  3.10  marks  (73.8  cents);  those  receiving  2.80  marks 
(66.6  cents)  were  raised  to  2.90  marks  (69  cents);  those  receiving 
2.65  marks  (63.1  cents)  were  raised  to  2.80  marks  (66.6  cents);  and 
those  receiving  2.50  marks  (59.5  cents)  were  raised  to  2.70  marks 
(64.3  cents).  The  wages  of  pressers  were  at  that  time  raised  from 
2.70  marks  (64.3  cents)  to  3  marks  (71.4  cents),  and  ^heu*  helpers 
over  18  years  of  age  were  raised  from  2.65  marks  (63.1  cents)  to  2.80 
marks  (66.6  cents)  per  day.  The  daily  wage  of  dye  hands  was 
increased  from  2.65  marks  (63.1  cents)  per  day  to  2.80  marks  (66.6 
cents),  and  beginners  in  this  branch  over  18  years  were  raised  from 
2,50  marks  to  2.65  marks  (59.5  to  63.1  cents).  Other  laborera 
received  increases  either  of  5  pfennigs  (1.2  cents)  or  10  pfennigs 
(2.4  cents)  per  day. 

As  214  out  of  258,  or  nearly  81  per  cent  of  the  male  employees  of 
these  three  establishments,  had  been  receiving  between  2.50  marks 
and  2.80  marks,  or  betw^een  59.5  cents  and  66.6  a  day,  this  increase 
raised  the  wages  of  that  proportion  of  the  employees  from  59.5  cents 


804 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  OK  SCHEDUIiB  K. 


to  64.3  cents,  and  from  66.6  cents  to  69  cents  a  day.  Before  the 
distorbanee  in  August,  65  per  cent  of  the  female  employees  in  the 
three  establishments  had  received  40.5  cents  a  day.  This  was  in- 
creased to  43  cents. 

The  working  hours  in  the  dyeing  and  finishing  establishments  of 
Reichenbach,  m  fact  throughout  the  Gera-Greiz  region,  are  from 
6  a.  m.  to  7  p.  m.  with  two  hours  out  for  meals  and  pauses,  Saturdays 
from  6  a.  m.  to  6  p.  m.  with  two  houra  off.  That  is,  the  actual  work- 
ing houra  are  1 1  houre  per  day  for  5  days  in  the  week,  and  10  hours  on 
Saturday,  or  65  hours  per  week.  For  female  oneratives  the  hours 
are  from  6  a.  m.  to  6  p.  m.  with  two  hours  ott,  except  Saturday, 
when  they  work  from  6  a.  m.  to  4  p.  m.,  with  two  hours  off— a  net 
working  week  for  women  of  58  hours. 

The  wage  scale  for  the  dyeing  establislmients  of  Elberfeld,  Barmen, 
and  Rousdorf  provides  that  apprentices  during  their  first  year  shall 
xecelye  8  marks  ($1.90)  per  week;  second  year,  12  marks  ($2.86); 
third  year,  15  marks  ($3.57).  Journeymen,  second  hands,  up  to 
17  years  of  age  receive  22  marks  ($5.24)  per  week;  from  18  to  21 
years  of  age,  24  marks  ($5.71);  and  above  21  years  of  age,  26  marks 
($6.19)  per  week.     The  hours  of  labor  are  56  per  week. 

The  wage  scale  for  Crefelds  dyeing  and  finishing  establishments 
provides : 


Dally. 


Weekly. 


Apprentioes: 

First  year 

Secon'd  year 

Third  year 

Female  apprentices: 

First  year 

Second  year 

Third  year 

Pemales  under  19  years  . 
Females  above  19  years  . 
Journeymen: 

Under  19 

Under  21 

Under  24 

Skilled  dyers: 

From  17  to  18  years.. 

From  18  to  19  years.. 

From  19  to  20  years.. 

From  20  to  21  years.. 

From 21  to 23  years.. 

From  23  to  25  years., 

Above  25  years 

Second  hands: 

First  year 

Second  year 


MarJu. 

1.00  ($0,238) 
1.50  ($0,357) 
2. 16  (la  514) 

.83  ($0,198) 
1.33  (W.  317; 
1.83  ($0,436 
2. 16  ($0,514 
2. 50  ($0. 595] 

3. 00  (iO.  735) 
3.50($0.8;J3) 
3.91  ($0,931) 

3. 33  ($0,793] 
3.50  ($0,833 
3.  a3  ($0,912 
4. 00  ($0,932] 
4. 16  ($0,990) 
4.33  ($1,030) 
4. 66  ($1,109) 

3. 00  ($0,714) 
3. 33  ($0. 793) 


MutJu. 
6.00  ($1.43) 
9. 00  ($2. 14) 
13. 00  ($3. 09) 

5.00  ($1.19) 

8.00  ($1.90) 

11. 00  ($2. 62) 

13. 00  ($3. 09) 

15. 00  ($3. 57) 

18. 50  ($4. 40) 
21.60  ($.5.00) 
24. 00  ($5. 71) 

20. 00  ($4. 76) 
21.00  ($5.00) 
23. 00  ($5. 47) 
24. 00  ($5. 71) 
25. 00  ($5. 95) 
26. 00  ($6. 19) 
28.00  ($6.66) 

18. 00  (14. 28) 
20. 00  ($4. 76) 


Xight  work.  2  marks  (SO.470)  more  per  week  on  all  grades.  Overtime  work:  Skilled  dyers,  60  pfennigs 
pi^r  hour;  journeymen,  50  pfennigs;  apprentices,  30  pfennigs;  female  apprentices,  25  pfennigs;  girls,  35 
pfennigs.    Sunday  work,  10  pfennigs  more  than  scale  for  other  overtiJi«s.    Daily  hours,  10. 

Females  under  19  receive  2.16  marks  (10.514)  per  day,  or  13  marks 
($3.09)  per  week;  over  19  years  of  age,  2.50  marks  per  day,  or  15 
marks  ($3.57)  per  week.  First-year  male  apprentices  receive  1  mark 
a  day,  6  marks  ($1.43)  per  week;  second-year  receive  9  marks  ($2.14) 
per  week,  and  third-year  13  marks  ($3.09)  per  week.  Female  appren- 
tices, first  3'ear,  receive  5  marks  a  week  ($1.19);  second  year  8  marks 
($1.90),  and  third  j'ear  11  marks  ($2.62)  a  week. 


BEPORT  OP  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDUI/E  K. 


DYEING  AND  FINISHING   IN  AUSTRIA. 


805 


\ 


In  Austria,  as  elsewhere  in  Europe,  the  dyeing  of  wool,  yams,  and 
cloths  is  done  mostly  in  dyeing  and  finishing  establishments,  although 
some  cloth-producing  plants  have  their  own  dyehouses.  The  rates  of 
wages  given  below  for  dyeliouse  labor  are  for  both  kinds  of  estab- 
lishments and  include  (a)  13  cloth  establishments  which  do  their  own 
dyeing,  (h)  a  combination  of  7  dyeing  establishments,  (c)  a  larger 
combination  of  dyeing  establishments,  of  which  the  13  included  here 
dye  wool  or  woolen  yarns  and  cloth,  and  (d)  the  Association  of  Aus- 
trian Silk  Dyers.  None  of  these  4  groups  can  be  considered  as 
typical  in  the  matter  of  rates  paid,  their  rates  differing  too  widely, 
and  their  reports  not  showing  distinct  and  separate  dyehouse  occu- 
pations. 

In  the  13  cloth-producing  establishments  which  do  their  own 
dyeing,  the  rates  of  pay  for  dyers  and  dyers'  helpers  range  from  45 
cents  to  49  cents  per  day.  A  few  establishments  paid  a  rate  as  high 
as  60  cents  per  day,  and  one  paid  a  rate  as  low  as  43  cents  per  day, 
but  those  rates  are  for  individual  persons  and  no  doubt  for  particu- 
lar reasons.  These  dyers  and  dyers'  helpers  are  not  the  chemists  or 
color  mixers  whose  knowledge  must  be  technical,  but  rather  the 
manual  workers  at  the  vats  who  combine  with  their  physical  labor  a 
certain  degree  of  skill  in  handling,  and  of  knowledge  of  just  how  the 
dye  is  takmg  effect  and  what  subsequent  treatment  the  dyed  wool, 
or  yam,  or  cloth  must  undergo.  It  is  in  this  sense  also  that  the  term 
"dyer"  is  used  throughout  in  connection  with  the  rates  of  jpay. 

In  the  second  group,  comprising  the  seven  separate  dyeing  estab- 
lisliments,  the  lowest  pay  for  dyers  during  the  first  half  year  of  their 
employment  is  fixed  at  $3.45  per  week,  or  about  57  cents  per  day. 
In  the  second  half  year  of  their  employment  their  lowest  pay  is  fixed 
at  $3.65  per  week,  or  61  cents  per  day,  and  after  one  and  a  half  years 
at  $3.86  per  week,  or  64  cents  per  day.  Working  up  through  the  same 
terms  of  employment,  females  begin  at  $1.83  per  week,  or  30  cents 
per  day,  and  reach  at  length  $2.23  per  week,  or  37  cents  per  day. 

The  third  and  fourth  groups  mentioned  above  are  more  nearly 
alike  in  the  rates  paid  and  in  their  division  of  the  dyers  and  theu' 
helpers  into  wage  groups.  Both  groups  of  estabUshnients  fix  $4.67 
per  week,  or  78  cents  per  day,  as  the  lowest  amount  that  may  be 
paid  to  skilled  dyers  cluring  the  first  year  after  the  completion  of 
their  apprenticeship,  and  $5.08  and  $5.48  per  week,  or  85  cents  and 
91  cents  per  day,  respectively,  as  the  lowest  rate  for  them  during 
the  second  year  after  finishing  their  apprenticeship.  Independent 
dyers  over  21  years  old,  whose  quahfication  as  dyers  and  whose  being 
employed  as  such  are  certified  to  by  the  establishment  employing 
them,  receive  from  $5.48  per  week  to  $5.89  per  week  as  a  lowest  wage 
rate.  To  dyers  who  change  from  cotton  to  silk,  or  silk  to  wool,  or 
cotton  to  wool  dyeing,  these  two  groups  of  establishments  pay  from 
$4.87  to  $5.48  per  week,  making  the  mcrease  in  rate  effective  after 
the  third  month's  emplo3rment  in  the  new  kind  of  dyeing.  Both 
groups  distinguish  between  the  dyers  and  helpers  at  the  dye  vats,  and 
pay  the  latter  $4.26  or  $4.47  per  week.  The  number  of  dye-vat 
nelpers  is  restricted  in  these  two  groups  of  establishments  to  from 
20  per  cent  to  25  per  cent  of  the  number  of  experienced  dyers,  and  if 
that  percentage  is  exceeded  they  must  pay  the  dye-vat  helpers  the 

32080°— H.  Doc.  342, 62-2,  vol  2 13 


806 


REPOET  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  OF  SCHEDFU:  K. 


EEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


807 


lowest  rate  paid  to  the  experienced  djers.  Females  after  one  and  a 
half  years*  experience  are  paid  $2.44,  and  after  three  yeare  $2.64  or 
S2.84  per  week,  or  47  cents  per  day. 

Eates  paid  for  tlie  various  occiipations  in  the  finisliing  rooms  in 
Austria  have  been  tabulated  and  are  presented  below  in  Table  41. 

The  13  establishments  reporting  rates  for  burlers  showed  that  the 
average  rate  for  burlera  was  about  31  cents  per  day.  Several  estab- 
lishments  paid  burlers  upon  the  basis  of  from  4.1  cents  to  9.1  cents 
per  cut  of  different  lengtns,  and  fixed  a  limit  of  $2.03  per  week  as  a 
guaranteed  lowest  wage  for  the  burler.  All  burlers  were  females. 
The  menders'  rates  for  time  work  averaged  somewhat  higher,  about 
38  cents  per  day,  and  with  these  are  includeil  the  piece-rate  burlers 
who  work  under  a  guaranteed  minimal  pay. 

In  the  finishing  department  the  cloth  washei-s  were  males,  their 
reported  rates  averagmg  46.3  cents  per  day.  The  lowest  rate  paid 
for  this  work  was  39  cents  per  dav,  and  the  highest  was  52  cents. 
Ooth  driers,  cloth  carriers,  gig  tenders,  fullers,  felters,  and  cloth 
dressers — all  males — were  paid  about  the  same  rates  as  cloth  washers; 
if  anything  a  little  less  than  cloth  dressers.  Press  tenders'  wages  were 
higher,  averaging  about  50  cents  per  day.  The  shearing-machine 
tenders'  rates  of  pay,  as  reported  for  13  establishments,  ranged  from 
26  cents  per  day  to  37  cents  per  day.  Nine  of  the  13  establishments 
employed  females  at  the  shearing  machines,  and  in  this  occupation 
at  least  the  males  had  no  advantage  in  the  matter  of  wage  rates. 

Table  41. — Ratal  of  pay  for  occujmtionB  in  the  finishvig  deparlmentM  of  Austrian  estah^ 

lishments. . 


Table  41. — EaUs  offcqffor  occupations  in  the  Jinishing  departmaits  of  Austrian 

establishments — Continued. 


Estab- 

Rates  of  pay. 

list-     Occupation,  rank,  and  cxperienra  of  employees,  or 
ment                Mnd  of  work  for  which  they  were  pidd. 

Sex. 

No. 

Unit  of  pay. 

Rate  per  unit. 

12 

Biirters. " 

Females  . 
...do 

Per  day 

Pwcut 

Per  day 

do.. 

do 

.1& 

10.34 

IS 

do 

.(Ml 

14 

do 

...do. 

.34 

15 

do 

.  ..do 

.34 

16 

.do 

.. .do 

3  to   .34 

17 

do 

.  .do 

do 

/Per  cut 

\Perday 

.■08J 

.33 

10 

do 

...do 

I  to   .091 

.34 

20 

do -. 

. . .do 

do 

Per  cut 

.06] 

.34 

21 

Burlera  on  finished  cloth 

...do 

Lto   .071 

JBurters 

. .  .do.... . . 

Per  day 

Per  109  yards. 

.233 

23 

'iBurlers  on  llnisiied  goods 

...do 

.061 

M 

Burlers 

...do 

Per  day 

.31 

to    .33 

IT 

do 

...do 

do 

.26 
.33 

to    .37 

28 

do 

...do 

,  .do 

.33 

10 

Menders,  skiUed 

...do 

do 

to    .47 

11 

Menders 

...do 

do 

.25 

12 

do 

do 

do 

.30 

13 

Menders  working  on  piece  rate,  but  giiaranteeti  10.3© 

...do 

Per  cut 

.061 

per  day. 

.— ■ 

14 

Menders 

. . .do 

Per  day 

Per  cut 

.43 

16 

Menders  working  on  piece  rate,  but  guaranteed  10.24 

...do 

.057 

per  day. 

17 

Menders  working  on  piece  rate,  but  guaranteed  90.37 
per  day. 

.  ..do 

do 

.061 

19 

Menders  working  on  piece  rate,  but  guaranteed  fO.39 
per  day. 

...do 

do 

.061 

90' 

Menders  working  on  piece  rate,  but  guaranteed  10.37 
to  $0.41  per  day. 

...do 

.do 

.Ml 

31 

Menders  working  on  piflce  rate,  but  guaranteed  SO^ 
per  day. 

...do 

do 

.m 

fMenders  on  summer  eoods 

. . .do 

do 

.SI 

22 

\Menders  on  winter  goods 

...do 

do 

.41 

23 

Menders  working  on  piece  rate,  but  guaranteed  10.41 
per  day. 

...do 

do 

.03 

27 

Menders                   

. .  .do 

Per  day 

do 

.51 

10 

Cloth  carriers 

Mates 

.45 

13 

do ; 

...do 

•  .  .  .  •  Uv.  ....... 

.45 

Estab- 
Mi- 

Occupation,  rank,  and  experience  of  employees,  or 
kind  of  work  for  which  they  were  paid. 

Sex. 

Rates 

of  pay. 

mont 
No. 

Unit  of  pay. 

Rate  per  unit. 

10 

Cloth  washers                           

Males 

...do 

Per  day 

do 

SO.  49 

12 

do 

.39  to   .50 

13 

11 

do 

do 

...do 

...do 

do 

do 

.45 
.43  to    .52 

15 

do 

.  ..do 

do 

.47 

IG 

do 

...do 

do 

do.... . 

.45  to    .  51 

17 

..do                            

...do. 

.47 

19 

20 

do 

do 

— do 

...do 

do 

do 

.45 
.45 

21 

do 

.  ..do.....  - 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

do 

.47 

10 
12 

1 ;  ig  tenders 

.....do 

...do 

...do 

.42to   .49 
.  39  to    .50 

13 

do 

.  ..do...... 

.61 

14 
IG 

do -  - 

do 

...do...... 

...do 

.38  to   .57 
.49 

19 

do 

...do 

do 

.49 

20 

do 

...do 

do 

-61 

21 

.  ...do 

...do 

do 

.47 

10 

Fullers 

...do 

do 

.47  to    .53 

12 

do 

...do 

do 

do 

do... 

.39tO    .50 

13 

do 

.  ..do 

.45 

17 

do 

...do 

.47 

27 

do 

...do 

do 

do 

.4310    .53 

12 

Felters           

...do 

.43  to   .45 

10 
13 

Cloth  driers 

do 

...do 

...do 

do 

do 

.47 
.45 

17 

do 

...do 

do 

.47  to    .49 

24 

do 

...do 

do 

do 

.47 

27 

do 

...do 

.43 

24 
23 

Cloth  drier's  helpers 

Cloth  dre&sers,  skilled 

fS hearing-machine  tenders,  beginners 

-..do 

...do 

Females.. 
...do 

do 

do 

do 

.  ..do ... 

.31 

.45  to   .47 

.33 

10 

iSheartnir-machino  tenders,  skilled 

.37 

11 

ShearLng-macbine  tenders 

Mfdes 

Females.. 
...do 

do 

do 

do.. 

.35  to  .37 

12 

do 

.36 

13 

do 

.37 

14 

16 

do 

do 

Males 

Females.. 
.  ..do... 

do 

do 

do 

.37 

•  37 

17 

do 

V 

IS 

do 

.  ..do 

do.... . 

.37 

19 

/Shearing-machine  tenders,  bekginners 

\Shearing-machine  tenders,  skilled 

...do 

...do 

do 

do 

do 

.33 
.37 

20 

Shearing-machine  tenders 

...do 

.37 

23 

do 

...do 

do 

.37 

25 

do 

Males 

...do 

do 

do 

do 

.^to    .35 

27 

do 

.26  to    .37 

11 

Press  tenders 

...do 

.47  to    .51 

12 

do 

...do 

do 

.4910    .64 

/Press  tenders,  roller  press 

...do 

do 

.45 

13 

14 

15 

\Pres8  tenders,  sorew  press 

Press  tenders 

do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

do.: 

do 

do 

.51 
.49 
.47 

19 

do 

...do 

do 

do 

.49 

20 

do 

...do 

.51 

f  Press  tenders,  vouncer  workers 

..do.. 

do     . 

.45  to    -61 

27 

\ Press  tenders,  older  workers , 

...do 

do 

.50to   .54 

DYEING  AND   FIXISHIXG    IN    FRANCE. 

Wage  scales  were  secured  for  a  number  of  dyeing  and  finishing 
plants  in  Roubaix,  France.  Some  of  these  wage  scales  go  into  great 
detail  as  to  occupations  and  rates,  while  others  give  only  the  principal 
occupations.  It  was  found  possible  to  tabulate  the  principal  occupa- 
tions and  group  the  hourly  rates  of  pay  by  giving  the  liighest  and 
lowest  rate  for  each.  Tliis  has  been  aone  in  preference  to  reproduc- 
ing translations  of  the  detailed  scales. 

Table  42  gives  the  lowest  and  highest  hourly  rate  provided  for  by 
any  scale  secured  in  the  occupation  named. 


k 


808 


KEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


REPORT  OP  TARIFF  BOARD  ON"  SCHEDULE  K. 


809 


The  occupations  are  arranged  alphabetically  rather  than  by  dyeing 
and  finishing  departments,  but  one  at  all  familiar  vnth  the  mdustry 
will  perhaps  be  better  able  to  locate  the  desired  occupation  in 
that  way: 

Table  42. — Occupations  and  rates  in  dtfeing  and  JinuMng  estahlishmenta  in  RouhaiXf 

France. 


Occupatiott. 


Bale  carriers. 
Beellers 


Brushers 

Bimdlers 

Calenderers 

Card  inserters 

Card  removors 

Cloth  carriers 

Color  mixers 

Crabhers 

Dividers 

Dryers  fcloth) 

Dryers  (wool) 

Dj^rs.. 

Dye  testers 

Dye- vat  hands 

Embroiderers 

Filers 

Folders- 

Fullers 

Crassers 

Glaiers 

Hydro-«xtiactors 

Inspectors 

KJer  hands 

I^abelers 

Mangle  machine  opera dves. 

Meroerizers 

Nappers 


Rates  per  hoar. 


Prom. 


To. 


10.0724 
•  0830 

.0405 


.0772 
.0820 
.0820 


.0772 
.0579 
.  0676 
.057» 
.0724 
.0791 
.0579 
.0627 
.0405 


.0772 
.0772 
.0869 


.  0772 
.0733 


SO.  0772 
.0869 
.0820 
.0643 
.0714 
.0869 
.0Ht»9 
.0801 
.1340 
.0917 
.0869 

.0772 
.1340 
.0772 
.0772 
.0820 
.0820 

.  0840 
.  0S(i9 
.0579 
.0820 
.0017 
.0849 
.0907 
.0897 
.0946 
.0'772 


Occupation. 


Rates  per  hour. 


From. 


Perchers ' . . . 

Piece  arranfiers 

Piece  carriers 

10.0724 

Piece  markers 

Pressers 

.0676 

Press-board  carriers 

•  0820 

Prcss-lward  iiia^rters 

Press- board  removers 

.0724 

Press  setters 

Printing  machine  operatives.. 
Packers 

Scalers 

Scourers 

.0724 

Sewers 

.0762 

Shearers 

.a540 

Singers 

Sizers , 

.0724 
.0724 

Soapers 

Sorters 

Speakers 

.0733 

Stampers 

Tenterers 

Unfolders 

.0654 
.0772 

.0676* 

Unrollers 

Warehousemen 

Weighers 

Winders 

Whizzers 

Wrappers 

.0772 
.0869 

To. 


10.0869 

.0869 

•  0801 

•  Uouv 

.0917 

•  0840 
.0791 
.0772 
.0917 
.0620 
.0724 
.0820 
.0869 
.0917 
.0897 
.0917 
.0869 
.0772 
.  0772 
.0917 
.0897 
.0917 
.0849 
.0772 
.0869 
.0869 
.0772 
.0849 
.0917 


WOOL   DYERS'    WAGES,  VERVIERS,    BELGIUM. 

The  preYailing  wage  scale  for  wool  dyers  in  Yeniers,  Belgium,  was 
obtained,  and  is  here  presented. 


Occn  nation. 


Dve  hands 

Whizzers 

Washing-machine  hands. . 

Weighers 

Felting-machine  hands 

Driers 

Bo 


Wage 

Wage 

per  hour. 

per  day. 

10.0579 

to.  71 

.0598 

.73 

.0598 

.73 

.0675 

.82 

.0598 

.73 

.0579 

.71 

.0598 

.74 

It  will  be  noted  that  two  different  rates  are  given  for  driers — the 
lower  rat©  being  for  those  who  do  not  turn  out  more  tlian  800  kilos 
per  day;  the  higher  rate  being  paid  to  those  who  do  turn  out  more 
than  800  kilos  (1,7G4  pounds,  per  day. 

The  duration  of  the  working  day  for  dyers  is  from  6  a.  m.  to  7  p.  m., 
except  than  on  Monday  work  begms  at  7  a.  m.  The  day's  wage  is  as 
a  rule  12  times  the  rate  per  hour.  This  system  of  payment  at  the 
rate  of  one- twelfth  of  the  daily  wage  for  every  hour  worked  is  by  no 
means  general  in  other  branches  of  the  industry  and  is  applied  in  this 


1 


particular  case  as  the  result  of  a  demand  of  the  operatives  in  this 
particular  branch. 

Operatives  may  taie  30  minutes' at  8  a.  ra.,  1  hour  at  noon,  and  15 
minutes  at  4  o'clock.  The  rest  periods  in  the  morning  and  in  the 
afternoon  shall  not  commence  later  than  8.15  a.  m.  and  4.15  p.  m., 
but  may  otherwise  be  shifted  according  to  the  requirements  of  the 
work.  The  above  pauses  will  be  seen  to  amount  to  1  hour  and  45 
minutes.  That  is  to  say,  the  normal  working  day  amounts  to  11 J 
hours.  If  the  employer  Keeps  the  operatives  at  work  during  the  mid- 
day pause,  he  pays  their  wages  for  the  entire  period  of  the  pause, 
even  though  they  work  only  a  portion  of  it.  i 

Extra  hours  or  work  shall  be  paid  at  a  rate  50  per  cent  higher  than 
the  ordinary  rate.  Should  one  operative  replace  another  who  is  to 
blame  for  his  absence,  the  50  per  cent  increase  in  the  rate  shall  be 
taken  from  the  wage  of  the  absent  employee.  An  operative  called 
upon  to  perform  other  work  than  that  which  he  usually  performs 
shall  be  paid  according  to  the  rat^  paid  the  worker  whose  place  ho 
takes,  except  that  the  wage  shall  not  be  modified  in  case  of  employ- 
ment for  less  than  one-half  day.  Whatever  may  be  the  wage,  it 
shall  not  be  reduced.  These  rates  apply  only  to  trained  or  sKilled 
workers,  not  to  temporary  employees  or  apprentices. 

Operatives  who  work  at  night  shall  have  a  rest  period  of  15  minutes 
at  9  o'clock,  with  30  minutes  at  12  o'clock  and  15  minutes  at  3  o'clock. 

Every  half  hour  of  work,  or  part  thereof,  shall  be  paid  for  as  though 
the  half  hour  had  been  completed. 

The  above  agreement  has  not  been  modified  since  the  time  of  its 
adoption;  it  is,  therefore,  still  in  force. 

Piece  dyers  have  no  wage  scale.  Their  wage  per  hour  varies 
between  5.2  and  5.8  cents.  The  dyers  of  worsted  yam  receive  from 
6.2  to  6.8  cents  per  hour.  The  employees  of  the  dyer  establish- 
ments and  dyeing  departments  of  Verviers  number  about  500.         ' 

DYEING    AND    FINISHING    ESTABLISHMENTS    IN    THE    UNITED    STATES. 

For  the  most  part  dyeing  and  finishing  is  done  by  worsted  and 
woolen  establishments  for  themselves.  The  separate,  independent, 
or  public  dyeing  and  finishing  establishment  is  rather  exceptional 
in  the  United  States.  There  are  a  few  in  Philadelphia,  where  the 
following  rates  obtain  quite  generally  in  yarn  and  wool  dyeing 
establishments. 

The  rates  in  this  table  are  fairly  comparable  with  those  of  the 
foreign  countries  cited,  where  separate  establishments  are  the  rule. 
The  question  of  rates  of  pay  by  sex  will  be  discussed  later. 


810 


SEPOKT  OF  TABIPP  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


BEPORT  OF  TABIPP  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


811 


Table  iS.—ffours  and  raiea  per  hour  for  dyers  in  nmnufacturing  and  jobbing  estahluk- 

/'  Philadelphia,  Pa. 


Establisteient  nonilwr. 

Manufact  tiring. 

Jobbing. 

Hours 

per  week. 

Bate 
per  hour. 

Hours        Rate 
per  week,  per  hour. 

1 

2 

3 '." 

54 
64 

57 
57 
67 
58 
58 
60 
60 
60 
57 
67 

m 

60 
55 

65 

10.25 
.25 

.228 
.228 
.228 
.172-.  224 
.20 
.20 
.20 
.20 
.228 
.228 
.20 
.20 
.182 

55 
60 
58 
60 
60 
60 
60 
60 
60 
60 
58 
60 
58 
60 
GO 

JO.  213 
.20 

4 

.218 

5... 

.217 

6 ■ 

/ 

s..              * 

.217 
.217 
.20 

9 

10 ; 

11 

12 

13 ■ 

.217 

.20 

.20 

.224 

.217 

14., ■ - 

.224 

15 

.20 

16 

.217 

— . 

.22 

(« 

.20 

Table  44  which  is  a  condensation  of  tho  general  wage  tables 
to  be  found  elsewhere  in  this  report,  gives  the  ranges  in  hourly 
rates  of  pay  for  the  plants  from  which  pay-roU  data  were  secured  in 
ine  united  btates.  The  table  gives  rates  of  wages,  by  sex  and  by 
occupations,  so  far  as  occupations  were  designated  : 

Table  44.— Number  of  male  and  female  employees  in  finishing  and  dyeing  departments 
of  woolen  or  worsted  establishments  in  the   tlnUed  Btate^  rLiving^peliMr^ 
wages  per  hour,  by  occupation.  "^    ^     -^  •' 

in  ALi?. 


• 

NumTier  of  employees  receiving  each  specifle<l  rate  per  hotu-. 

Occupation. 

Total 
male. 

153 

di 

14 

2(5 

0 

124 

245 

30 

78 

88 

183 

86 

65 

256 

200 

Under 
10 

cents. 

10  and 
tmder 

16  cents. 

16  and 
under 

20  cents. 

20  and 

ujadfsr 

25  cents. 

25  and 

under 

35  cents. 

35  cents 
or  over. 

FlNlSlimo. 

Overseer 

1 
2 

12 
8 
9 

12 

2:) 

36 
4 

7 

61 

m 
1 

7 

Second  hand 

60 

Third  hand 

7 

Burter '. 

Inspector ', 

Washing-machine  tender ...''[!!"" 

7' 

1 



i4* 

2 

1 

6 
14 

214 
18 
67 
fiS 

152 
69 
60 

103 

129 

! 

1 

15 

26 

10 

8 

a 

16 

23 

6 

118 
48 

«           «l i 

Fulling-machine  tender 

Crabbing-machine  tender 

Cf  igging-machine  tender 

Drying-mac iiine  tender 

4 
2 

2 

1  

Teasiing-machine  tender " 

Brush tng-machine  tender " " ' 

Shearing-machine  tender 

Pressing-machine  tender ...... 

i 

4 

18' 

7 



::::::::: 

14 
13 

;;;;;;;;;; 

2 

Total 

1.644 

43 
34 

25 

910             313 

149 

178 

69 

DYEINO. 

Overseer 

1 

177 

1 

11 

1 

0 

16 

• 

4 
9 

Second  hand 

32 

Thirdhand "' 

Section  hand 

4 

20 
690 

6 

Dyehousehand llll'"!]] 

;::^;;.j 

" 489* 

3 
6 

2 

Total 

791 

!                <»n  1 

201 

38 

22 

— — — 

1 

VIK/    1 

40 

Table  44. — Number  of  male  and  female  employees  in  finishing  and  dyeing  departments 
of  woolen  or  worsted  establishments  in  the  United  States  receiving  specified  rates  of 
wages  per  hour,  by  occupation — Continued. 


FEMALi:. 


Total 
female. 

Number  of  employees  receiving  each  specified  rate  per  hour. 

Occupation. 

Under 
6  cents. 

6  and 

under  10 

cents. 

10  and 

under 16 

cents. 

16  and 

under  20 

cents. 

20  and 

under  25 

cents. 

25  cents 
or  over. 

rmi.sHiNG. 
Overseer 

21 

3 

1,358 

1,375 

95 

4 

1 

24 

5 

13 
1 

874 

546 

38 

2 

1 

18 
4 

6 

1 

171 

410 

32 

2 

2 

Second  liand 

1 

1 

Burler 

27                   9.\A 

30 

256 

21 

a 

Mender 

74 
4 

89 

Inspecto  r 

Drving-machine  tender 

Brushing-raatihine  tender 

Shear ing-mach  ino  tender 

5 
1 

1 

Pressing-machine  tender 

1 

1 

Total 

2,8SG 

27 

337 

1,197 

023 

307 

Q5 

In  Table  45  the  rates  paid  in  the  various  occupations  connected 
with  dyeing  and  finishmg  have  been  brought  together  in  one  table 
for  all  the  countries  discussed  and  for  all  the  occupations  which  could 
be  clearly  identified  as  comparable. 

Tliis  table  is  to  be  studied  for  occupational  wages  and  for  these 
only.  If  teasling  machines  are  operated  only  by  men  in  the  United 
States,  and  this  is  the  case,  and  by  both  women  and  men  in  Germany 
or  Austria,  then  this  table  will  show  the  wages  paid  to  women  in  one 
case  and  men  in  the  other.  And  that  is  precisely  what  happens  in  this 
occupation  of  ^Heasler." 

It  has  at  all  times  and  in  all  investigations  been  very  hard  to 
separate  purely  industrial  and  economic  data  from  data  more  or  less 
interwoven  with  sociological  and  labor  problems.  There  has  always 
been  a  sex  element  in  wage  rates,  and  wage  investigations  have  some- 
times sacrificed  economic  exactitude  to  tins  element.  For  purposes  of 
studying  cost  of  production  as  an  economic  or  as  a  tariff  proposition 
it  does  not  matter  whether  wool  is  sorted  by  a  man  or  a  woman, 
or  whether  a  teasling  machine  is  run  by  a  man  or  by  a  woman;  the 
cost  of  sorting  wool  per  pound  is  the  economic  fact,  the  wages  paid 
for  the  work  regardless  of  the  sex  of  the  one  to  whom  it  is  paid.  So 
in  teasling  or  napping  the  cloth  in  a  finishing  department,  the  machine 
does  the  work,  the  wages  paid  to  the  machine  attendant  is  the 
economic  fact;  the  sex  of  the  operator  may  be  of  interest  in  con- 
nection with  the  wage  rate  to  those  who  are  studying  wages  socially, 
but  from  a  tariff  point  of  view  there  is  no  objection  to  studying 
wage  rates  in  occupations  irrespective  of  sex;  in  fact,  the  objection  is 
to  sacrificing  economic  fact  to  any  other  consideration  no  matter 
how  thoroughly  embedded  in  our  statistical  methods. 

The  occupational  wages,  then,  in  the  following  table  are  for  those 
who  do  identical  work  in  the  various  countries,  regardless  of  age  or 
sex. 


812 


BEPORT  OF  TAKIFF  BOAED  ON   SCHEDULE   M. 

■'^^fT-^rlT^  w  rfy««j7  andfmMinff  estahliskments 

m  the  bnUed  States,  England,  France,  Germany,  and  Austria. 


OoCTipation. 


Dyeinfi  department: 

layers 

Dryers « 

Stitchers 

Tenterers 

Poremaii    ten- 

Finishing    "depart- 
ment: 

Bniatoers. 

Cfatobers 

Foreman   enil>-  | 

ber I 

Folders [ 

Measurers ' 

Menders 

Nappers 1 

Examiners  2 ,j 

I'ressers 

Scourers | 

Shearers I 

Fullers i 


United  States. 

1 

Establishment 
I. 

Establislunent 
U. 

Establishment 
I. 

Range  in 
hourly  rates— 

Kangein       i       Range  in 
liourly  rates—  ^  hourly  rates- 

From—    To —    From— 

To—    From— 

To— 

England. 


Estabiisbment 
II. 


Establishment 
III. 


80.167 


.109 

.092 


.1750 


.  1917 

.1667 

.1417 

1750 

1543 


.21t»7 


.1833 
.1833 
.1760 
.2063 
.2063 
.1500 
.2333 
.200 


.1060 
.1667 


10.20 

.192 
.10 


J667 
1830 


10.0621 
.0911 
.0504 

.0521 


.1129 


10.1302 
.irjS9 
.1129 
.1302 


Range  in 
hourly  rates— 


From—    To— 


10.11.30  ISO.  1173  t«0.0860 
.1130 


Range  in 
hourly  rates- 


From- 


To — 


10.1130 
.1217 


.1420 
.18a3 
.1333 
.1667 
.1833 
.1833 


I   xuw 

.  v«ov 

.30 

.05t>4 

(KW 

.0521 

1667 

.0607 

\m^ 

.0998 

250 

.1041 

200 

.  05(54 

2167 

.1129 

200 

.  1041 

2167 

Occupation. 


France. 


Establishment 
I. 


Range  in 
hourly  rates- 


Establishment 
III. 


Range  in 
hourly  ratea— 


Range  in 
hourly  rates- 


Range  in  hourly  Range  in  hourly 
rates —  rates— 


From- 


J-rom — 


To—    From— 


To —   iFrom — I    To — 


Dyeing  department: 

Dyers 

Dryers » 

Stitchers 

Tenterers 

Finishing      depart- 
ment: 

Brushers 

Crabbers 

Folders 

Measurers 

Menders 

Nappers 

Examiners  a 

Pressers 

Soourers 

Shearers 

Fullers 


10.0724 
.0724 


.0772 
.0724 


.0772 


f6.6e26 


.0820 
.0820 
.0917 

".'0826' 
.0772 
.0917 
.0917 
.0772 
.0917 


J0.0820  $0.1013 
.0772  I  .0840 
.0762 


.0645 


.0627 

^0762' 
.0753 

.*0676" 
.0724 
.0540 
.0405 


.0800 


.0820 
.0830 

•  •  •  •  •  ■  ■ 

.0840 
.0772 

".mi' 

.0820 

.0724 
.0840 


10.0772 
.0800 


•0.0917 
.0965 
.0772 
.0917 


.0820 
.0917 

.OSGO 
.0917 
.0772 
.0897 
.0965 
.0669 
.0897 
.0620 


10.0548 
<.06O8 


F*iom — 


SO.  0794  $0.0305 
<.1640       .0305 


To — 


50.0980 

.0487 


&.  04(;0 
.0549 


<.  06.12 

".mi 

.0641 


1 

.0848 

".6i62' 
.0392 

.1080 

'mio 

.0944 

.0447 
.0392 
.0264 
.0392 

.0508 
.056S 


.0644 
.0513 
.C137I 
.0.528 


Threw  a    dryers  mto  dyeing  department. 
.  I  hrew  all  exammew  and  overlookers  into  flni-^hine  deoartmpnt 
» Cnmroits<^hau  district,  except  as  noted--"  ""  and  -  l^P^""^^^ 
*  (Jera  district.  '  - 

^  LucJienwalde. 


EEPORT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD   ON    SCHEDULE   K. 


813 


COMPARATIVE  WAGES  AND  HOURS  OF  LABOR;     VARIOUS  OCCUPATIONS. 

Wage  data  were  secured  for  a  large  number  of  occupations  from  the 
various  countries  visited,  in  connection  with  the  manufacture  of 
woolen  and  worsted  goods.  A  mass  of  such  wage  data  secured  from 
various  German  sources  has  not  been  used  for  lack  of  time.  Such 
material  as  was  secured  directly  and  at  first  hand  by  the  agents  of 
the  Tariff  Board  has  been  used. 

Below  is  presented  tliis  miscellaneous  wage  material,  first  for  Eng- 
land, in  which  case  time  was  had  to  make  comparison  of  rates  of  pay 
in  specific  occupations.  The  difficulty  of  identifying  occupational 
names  in  foreign  mills  with  the  same  work  here  is  not  so  great  in  the 
case  of  England  as  on  the  Continent,  hence  a  comparative  presentation 
could  be  more  quickly  made.  In  cases  where  occupations  could  not 
be  identified  with  a  corresponding  one  here,  they  were,  of  course, 
necessarily  thrown  out. 

This  material  is  presented  in  the  following  order:  England,  Ger- 
manv,  and  Austria. 

ENGLAND. 

VARIATIONS  IN  EARNINGS  BY  DISTRICTS  IN  THE  WEST  RIDING  OF  YORK- 
SHIRE, WITH  A  COMPARISON  OF  EARNINGS  IN  THREE  DISTRICTS  IN 
THE  UNITED   STATES. 

The  agents  of  the  Tariff  Board  made  a  special  investigation  of  the 
earnings  and  occupations  of  employees  in  the  woolen  and  worsted 
industry  in  the  West  Kiding  of  Yorkshire,  England.     Seventy-two 

fer  cent  of  all  persons  in  the  industry  are  employed  in  this  district, 
ts  chief  centers  in  the  West  Riding  of  Yorkshire  are  Huddersfield 
(including  the  Colne  and  Holme  Valleys) ,  Bradford,  Leeds,  Dewsbury 
and  Batley.  Halifax  and  Keigliley.  The  Huddersfield  district 
mainly  produces  fancy  worsted  coatings  of  the  finest  quality,  and 
low  woolens.  At  Bradford  wool  sorting,  combing,  and  worsted 
spinning  are  largely  carried  on  as  separate  industries  and  worsted 
yams  are  sold  there  for  use  at  all  the  other  centers  of  the  trade. 
Bradford  is  also  a  large  center  for  the  production  of  alpacas  and 
womens'  dress  goods.  Fancy  worsteds  for  men's  wear  are  also  pro- 
duced there.  At  Leeds  every  qualitj^  from  fine  cloths  to  low  woolens 
are  made.  The  heavy  woolen  district  of  Dewsbury  and  Batley  is  a 
rag  center,  and  rag  wool  pulled  at  Dewsbury  finds  its  way  into  every 
concern  in  the  West  Riding  where  low  woolens  are  made.  It  also 
makes  pilots,*  beavers,  and  blankets,  and  in  recent  years  it  has 
entered  in1?o  the  production  of  low  woolen  costume  cloths  and  men's 
suitings  with  great  and  growing  success. 

Some  worsted  and  fine  and  fancy  woolen  and  army  cloths  are  s^so 
produced.  Halifax  and  Keighley  make  a  class  of  goods  similar  to 
those  manufactured  at  Bradford. 

The  different  branches  of  the  industry  and  the  variations  in  the 
same  branches  make  it  difficult  to  arrive  at  reliable  general  averages. 

This  condition  of  affairs  also  in  part  explains  the  difference  of  wages 
found  when  one  district  is  compared  with  another.  In  weaving,  for 
example,  the  Huddersfield  standard  loom  is  a  box  loom  running 
normally  at  80  or  100  picks  per  minute,  the  latter  speed  an  intro- 
duction of  the  past  10  years  or  so.     Of  these  looms  one  operative 


I'' 


814 


BEPOBT  OF  TAKIFF  BOABD  OKT  SCHEDUIiE  K. 


can  tend  only  one.  At  Bradford  in  the  plain  trade  the  looms  are 
narrower,  or  45  to  54  inches  in  width,  the  work  is  woven  with  one 
shuttle  and  the  operative  tends  two  looms.  On  Bradford  fancy, 
coatings  the  loom  is  wide,  there  are  more  shuttles  used,  and  the  oper- 
atives tend  only  one  loom.  The  same  remarks  apply  to  Hahfax  and 
Keighley,  while  at  Leeds  there  is  little,  if  any,  two-loom  weaving, 
and  one  loom  per  weaver  is  also  the  rule  in  the  heavy  woolen  district. 
It  is  necessary,  therefore,  to  exercise  great  care  in  compaiing  the 
earnings  of  weavers  in  one  district  with  those  in  another. 

The  data  have  been  secured  from  the  pay  records  of  representative 
mills  and  have  been  compared  with  the  published  returns  of  the 
British  Board  of  Trade.  (The  British  Board  of  Trade  returns, 
showing  earnings  and  occupations  for  the  entire  industry  in  the 
United  Kingdom,  including  the  West  Riding  of  Yorkshire,  are  piinted 
elsewhere  in  this  report.) 

The  woolen  and  worsted  industry  lacks  the  standardization  which 
is  found  in  the  Lancashire  cotton  industry.  There  is  no  general 
organization  among  the  operatives  and  conseauently  no  wage  agree- 
ments providing  for  a  uniform  payment  for  the  same  kind  of  work. 
As  a  result  earnings  within  the  same  branch  of  the  industry  vary 
because  of  the  absence  of  a  common  rate  of  pay  for  the  same  class  of 
work.  The  piece  and  time  rates  vary  from  mill  to  mill  even  among 
those  the  products  of  which  are  identical.  In  some  localities,  as  in 
the  Iluddersfield  district,  men  are  paid  a  higher  rate  than  women, 
although  both  are  doing  the  same  kind  of  work. 


BARNINaS  IN  THE  DIFPBREMT  DiaTRICTS. 


To  illustrate  these  points  the  following  tabulation  of  the  approxi- 
mate average  earnings  in  a  normal  week  in  each  district  is  shown: 


Worsted  weavers. 

Districts. 

Woolen  weavers  n  ioom  i. 

1  loom.                               2  looms. 

Men. 

Women. 

Glrk. 

Men. 

Women. 

Girls. 

Men. 

Women. 

Girls. 

TTiidclf^rsfinld 

t6.68 

14.86 
3.89 
3.80 
3.89 
3.65 

3.49 

3.16 

S6.50 
5.47 

'*'4.'98' 

fi.96 

3.80 
3.89 

K    A1 

t2.02 

Leeds..., ' 

Bradford 

' 

3.28 

3.55 

'*$5*ii' 

13.52        $2.80 

Halifax 

3.41 
3.53 

2.56 
2.68 

3.52    

Keietilev 

3.05          3.04 



At  Halifax  there  is  some  two-loom  weaving  on  plain  woolens  and 
thp  earnings  are  practically  the  same  as  those  on  fancy  woolens  with 
one  loom  only. 

In  the  heavy  woolen  district  weavers  earn  similar  wages  on  woolens 
and  worsteds. 


BEPORT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  OlS  SCHEDULE   K. 


815 


EARNINGS   ACCOBDIMO   TO   PBIMCIPAL  DIVISIONS   OF  THE   IXDUSTKT. 


WOOL   SORTING. 


The  earnings  of  the  operatives  may  be  best  presented  according 
to  the  principal  divisions  of  the  industrj^.  Wool  sorting,  the  initial 
process  of  manufacture,  is  Usually  done  in  Bradford.  Both  time- 
work  and  piecework  are  prevalent  methods  of  payment,  and  there 
is  practically  no  difference  in  the  weekly  earnings,  the  two  methods 
being  adjusted  so  as  to  yield  practically  the  same  returns.  The 
almost  universal  superiority  of  pieceworkers'  earnings  over  those 
of  time-workers  in  the  same  occupation  holds  good  here,  but  not  to 
any  great  extent.     The  average  weekly  earnings  are : 

Bradford. — Wool  sorters:  Time-work,  $8,28  per  week;  piecework, 
$8.52  per  week. 

The  trade-union  standard  time  rate  is  8d.  ($0.16)  per  hour  for  50 
hours,  or  $8.11  per  week,  in  sorting  shops,  and  $8.03  per  week  for 
55  i  hours  in  mills. 

With  wool  sorters  there  is  a  considerable  amount  of  lost  time.  The 
earnings  are  probably  higher  in  a  normal  week  than  those  of  other 
operatives  of  similar  grade  of  skill  in  the  worsted  industry,  because 
of  the  uncertainty  attaching  to  their  employment.  Under  active 
industrial  conditions,  for  the  whole  year  of  50  nominal  working  weelis, 
wool  sorters  will  probably  not  average  more  than  $7.29  to  $7.53  per 
week.  During  some  years  the  loss  will  be  more  and  the  average  10  to 
1 5  per  cent  lower.  Sorters  working  in  mills  do  not  suffer  so  much  from 
lost  time  as  do  those  in  separate  sorting  establishments,  and  as  a 
consequence,  while  the  wage  for  a  normal  week  is  about  the  same, 
the  hours  worked  in  mills  are  longer  and  the  earnings  in  a  year  are 
higher. 

WOOL  COMBIXG,    BRADFORD. 

Bradford  is  the  chief  center  for  wool  combing,  and,  as  in  the  case 
of  sorting,  only  a  small  amount  is  done  at  other  places,  except  in  the 
few  mills  which  carry  on  all  processes  of  manufacture.  The  work  is 
carried  on  by  day  and  night,  women  tending  the  combs  by  day  and 
men  operating  them  by  mglit.  The  rates  or  pay  vary,  but  the  fol- 
lowing may  be  taken  as  representative  of  the  average  weekly  earn- 
ings in  the  principal  occupations  of  this  branch  of  the  industry: 

Men  day  workers:  Earnings  per  week. 

Grinders $7. 06 

Wool  runners,  laborers,  etc 4. 14 

Bowl  minders  (scouring  machine  teiidere) -  -    6. 08 

Feeders 6-60 

Warehousemen 6. 08 

Men  night  workers: 

Comb  minders  (comb  tenders) 6. 33 

Backwaehera  (backwash  tenders) 6. 08 

Box  minders  (gill  box  tenders) 5. 84 

Jobbers  (oiler  and  machine  fixer) 6. 08 

Feeders 5.  84 

Runners 6-84 

Women  day  workers: 

Comb  minders  (comb  tenders) 3. 41-3. 65 

Backwashers  fbackwash  tenders) 3. 41 

Box  minders  (gill  box  tenders) 3. 16 


t 
) 

f 

1^1 


POET  OF  TABIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDtJLE  K. 


816 

^  Tlie  Wool-combers  Union  is  now  attempting  to  secure  the  adop- 
tion of  a  minimum  wage  of  $6.08  for  night  work. 

In  some  spinning  mills,  where  the  firms  do  their  own  combing,  men 
comb  tenders  are  employed  by  day  and  no  night  work  is  done.  In 
such  cases  the  wages  are  lower,  the  difference  being  caused,  as  in  the 
case  of  wool-sorters,  bv  the  more  regular  working  in  mills  than  in 
combmg  sheds.    The  annual  earnings  are  probably  not  very  dissimilar. 

WORSTED  SPINNING,   BBADFORD. 

Unlike  wool  sorting  and  wool  combing,  there  is  not  in  worsted  spin- 
ning any  great  difference  between  the  rates  of  wages  paid  in  mills 
spinning  yarn  for  sale  and  in  those  spinning  for  their  own  consump- 
tion. The  work  is  almost  invariably  time-work,  and  very  few  adult 
males  are  emploved.  Cliildren  largely  enter  the  mills  as  *' half- 
timers,  "  that  is,  they  work  for  not  more  than  30  hours  per  week  in  the 
mill,  and  attend  school  for  one-half  of  each  day. 

On  commencing  miU  hfe,  children  start  as  *'doffers,"  or,  in  other 
words,  they  take  the  full  bobbins  off  the  spinning  frame  and  put  the 
empty  ones  in  their  place.  As  they  grow  older,  they  go  to  spinning 
ana  then  to  drawing.  There  are  no  recognized  rates  fqr  these  occu- 
pations and  the  averages,  per  week,  for  the  Bradford  district  are 
approximately  as  follows: 

Half-timers $0. 85 

Doffers,  children,  full-timere 1. 46 

Spinners: 

Girls 2.43 

Women 2.  68 

Lads : 2. 43 

Drawers: 

Girls 2.  68 

Women 3. 16 

The  ''spinners"  here  referred  to  are  frame  or  ring  spinners  and  the 
''drawers^'  are  called  ** drawing  frame  tenders"  in  mills  in  the  United 
States. 

Tliere  is,  however,  a  great  range,  not  only  from  mill  to  mill,  but  in- 
side any  one  single  mill.  Thus,  at  one  large  firm,  the  drawers  receive 
$2.80  per  week  and  the  spinners  receive: 

For  minding— 

1  eide  of  110  spindles |2. 19 

2  sides  of  130  spindles 2.  31 

2  sides  of  168  epindles 2.  43 

2  sides  of  220  spindles 2. 55 

3  sides  of  194  gpindles 2.  61 

3  sides  of  252  spindles 2.  80 

3  sides  of  330  spindles 3. 04 

At  another  large  firm  the  spinners  tend  4  sides  of  72  spindles  each, 
for  a  weekly  wage  of  $3.16.  At  a  third  firm  they  receive  for  three 
sides  of  72  spindles  each  $2.92,  and  for  4  sides  of  54  spindles  each 
$3.16.  As  a  general  rule,  however,  spinners  do  not  tend  more  than 
two  sides. 

In  each  of  these  cases  the  drawers  receive  about  $0,243  per  week 
more  than  the  average  spinner. 

Doublers  (testing  frame  tenders  in  United  States  mills)  receive 
about  the  same  as  drawers,  the  averages  for  the  Bradford  mills  being: 
For  women  time-workers  $2.80  weekly  and  for  pieceworkers  $3.28. 


EEPORT  OF  TAEIFF  BOABD   ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


817 


Girl  doublers,  working  on  a  time  basis,  are  paid  a  weeMy  wage  of 
$2.55.  Piecework  is  much  more  prevalent  in  doubling  than  in 
spinning. 

FOREMEN   OR   OVERLOOKEIIS. 

The  wages  of  overlookers  in  the  Bradford  district  are  subject  to 
wide  variations,  and  approximately  average  for  the  different  depart- 
ments as  follows: 

Foremen:  ,  Weekly  earnings. 

Sorting  department $8.  27 

Combing  department 8.  27-8.  76 

Spinning  department 7.  67 

Doubling  department 8.  03 

Weaving  department 8.  52-8.  76 

In  some  mills  the  foremen  in  charge  of  the  weaving  department  also 
receive  a  bonus  on  the  production  of  the  looms  in  excess  of  a  speci- 
fied amount. 

WEAVING   AXD   ALLIED   OCCUPATIONS,  BRADFORD. 

In  the  other  departments  of  the  worsted  goods  manufacturing 
industry  the  following,  are  representative  weekly- wage  averages : 

Men: 

Warp  dressers,  piecework $8. 27 

Twisters-in,  piecework 7. 79 

Warehousemen,  time-work. 5.  96 

Weavers  (worsted  coating),  piecework  ^ 4. 99 

Women: 

Reelers,  time-work $3. 04 

Reelers,  piecework 3.  65 

Winders,  time-work ." 2.  80 

Winders,  piecework 2.  92 

Warpers,  time-work 3.  41 

Warpers,  piecework 3.  77 

Weavers,  worsted,  1  loom,  piecework 3.  28 

Weavers,  worsted,  2  looms,  piecework 3.  53 

Weavers,  woolen,  piecework 3.  89 

Burlers  and  knotters,  time-work 3.  53 

Burlers  and  knotters,  piecework : 3.  53 

Menders  and  fine  drawers,  time-work 3.  65 

Menders  and  fine  drawera,  piecework 3.  77 

Girls  * 

Winders 2. 31 

Weavers,  worsted,  1  loom 2. 55 

Weavers,  worsted,  2  looms 2.  68 

Burlers  and  knotters 2.  07 

Half-time  assistants 91-  97 

Averages  for  weaving,  however,  as  already  pointed  out,  are  very 
unrehable,  owing  to  the  great  diversity  of  rates  paid  and  goods 
woven.  Thus,  at  one  mill  making  mohairs  and  dress  goods  the 
range  of  weekly  earnings  per  weaver  (women)  is  $3.65  to  $3.89.  At 
another,  making  fancy  waistcoating  and  light  fancy  coatings,  the 
weekly  average  is  about  $5.23,  the  women  earning  about  $4.87  and 
the  men,  of  whom  only  a  few  are  employed,  about  $5.59.  There 
are  very  few  men  weavers  in  Bradford.  At  a  mill  making  alpacas, 
the  average  weekly  wage  is  about  $3.89. 

1  Very  few  men  weavers  are  employed.     There  is  a  small  group  of  expert  pattern  weavers  on  hand 
looms,  earning  $5.36  to  17.08  a  week  and  averaging  about  $6.33  a  week  for  time-work. 


,  I 

\4 


818 


KBPOKT  OF  TAEIFF  BOABD  ON   SCHEDUU:  K. 


WAGES  FOB  A  XORMAL  WEEK's   WORK. 


BEPOET  OF  TAEIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


819 


Huddtrsjitld  district. 
Men: 

Foreman — 

Scribblinnf  (carding) 

Mule  spinning 

Weaving 

Wool  sorters 

Wool  washers 

Fettlers,  time  (card  strippers) 

Spinnera — 

Time 

Piece 

Piecere — ^ 

Daytime 

Night  workers 

Bcribblera'  leedexB  (card  feeders) — 

Day 

Night 

Warpers 

Beamers 

Twisters-in , 

Pattern  weavers — 

Time 

Piece •. 

Weavers — 

Woolen 

Worsted 

Low  worsted  weavers 

Dyere 

Fullers 

Dressers — 

Time 

Piece 

Warehouseman 

Lade  and  boys: 

Big  piecers 

Little  piecers 

Twisters-in 

Worsted  spinnera 

Worsted  dfoffers 

Women: 

Scribblers'  (card)  feeders — 

2  machines 

3  machines 

Combers 

Finishers  (combing),  (finishing  gill-box  tenders) 

Drawers  (drawing-frame  tenders) 

Worsted  spinners 

Wool  spinners'  piecers 

Women : 

Twisters  or  doublere— 

Time 

jriece.»»  ........................................ 

Reelers — 

Time 

Piece 

Winders — 

Time 

Piece 

Warpers — 

Time 

Piece 

Weavers — 

Woolen 

Worsted 

"Low  worsted  weavera" 


$10.  95 

9.00 

8.52 

.  6.93 

5.60 

6.  52-fi.  18 

6.33 
7.79 

5.12 

5.84 

5.12 
5.  84-6.  33 
7.30 
6.45 
6.69 

6.95 
7.79 

6.69 
6.93 
6.33 
5.  88 
5.72-^.08 

3. 84-6. 33 

7. 06-7.  30 

6.33 

3.65 

3.65 
2.19 
L70 


3.65 
4.38 
2.80 
2.68 
2.68 
2.25 
3.16 


2.68 
4.14 

2.92 
3.65 

2.92 
3.53 

401 

4.50 

4.86 
4,86 
4.26 


Women—  Continued. 

Burlers — 

Time $3.16 

Piece 4. 01 

Knottere — 

Time 3.16 

Piece 3.  65 

Mendere— 

Time 4. 14 

Piece : 4.  74 

Girls: 

Worsted  spinners 2.  07 

Wool  spinners'  piecers 2.  80 

Winders- 
Time 2.  07 

Piece 2.  55 

Weavers,  wool  and  worsted 4.  01 

Burlers  and  knotters — • 

Time 1.  82 

Piece ■      3. 16 

Leeds  district. 

Reference  has  already  been  made  to  the  wide  range  of  goods  man- 
ufactured in  the  Leeds  district.  These  variations  account  for  a  sim- 
ilarly wide  range  of  wages.  Generally  speaking,  wages  are  highest  in 
the  fine-cloth  mills  and  lowest  where  plain  woolens  are  made.  The 
following  table  shows  the  wages  of  the  principal  classes  of  operatives 
in  1911: 

Men: 

Foremen —  Wages. 

Preparing : $12.  1 7 

Spinning 8.  52 

Weaving •. g.  yg 

Others g.  52-9.  73 

Fettlers  (card  strippers) 7.  06 

Spinners 7.  66-9!  49 

Warp  dressers g  59 

Beamers g,  57 

Twisters-in 6.  20-6.  93 

Woolen  weavers 5.  §4 

i>yers ;  e!  OS 

Fullers. e.  08-7.  54 

Dressers,  finishers 6.  08-8.  76 

Warehousemen "  q[  33-6.  57 

Lads  and  boys: 

Scribblers'  feeders  (card  feeders) . . .  .* 3.  41 

Piecers 2.  43-2.  92 

Other  lads  and  boys 2.  43-2.  92 

Women: 

Scribblers'  feeders  (card  feeders) 3.  41 

Worsted  drawers 2!  68 

Worsted  spinners 2.  55 

Mule  piecers ". '.  2.  43-2!  92 

Doublers  (twisting-frame  tenders) 2.  55 

Winders 2  55 

Warpers .*-.';.".".";.".'.".'  3.65-4.38 

Weavers,  woolen 3, 53 

Weavers,  woolen  and  worsted 4. 14 

Burlers  and  knotters : 2.  92 

Menders  and  fine  drawers ,,,,  3. 89-4. 26 

Girls: 

Worsted  spinnera ^ 2. 07-2.  31 

Woolen  piecers. 1. 95-2. 31 

Winders 2. 07 

Doublers 2!  07 

Weavers,  woolen 2. 80 

Burlers  and  knotters l  82 


fl 


820        EEPOBT  OF  TABIFP  BOAKD  OK  SCHEDULE  K. 

The  heamf  woolen  districL 

This  district  is  a  large  one,  including  Mirfield,  Ravensthorpe. 
Bewsbury,  Batley,  Birstall,  Heckraondwike,  and  Ossett.  The  goods 
extend  from  very  low  woolens,  cotton  warps,  and  rag-wool  wefts  to 
men's  wear  woolens  of  good  quality,  costume  cloths,  low  worsteds, 
pilots,  beavers,  as  well  as  rugs  and.  blankets.  The  average  weekly 
wage  payments  for  this  class  of  work  are  as  follows: 

Average 

weekly  wage. 

Foreman,  weaving  department $8.  27~$9. 49 

Waahera 6. 60 

Fettlera  (card  etrippers) 6. 20 

Spinners,  mule: 

Time .        6. 57 

Piece 8. 52 

Piecers: 

Bay 4. 38 

Night 6. 08 

Warpers 6. 57 

Beamera 6. 33 

Weavers,  woolen 5. 35 

Byers,  time ^ 6. 08 

Fullers: 

Time. 6. 08 

Piece 6. 57 

Bressera  and  finisher': 

Time 6.08 

Piece , 7. 30 

Warehousemen 5. 84 

Lads  and  boys: 

Piecers 3. 16 

Lads,  generally .« 2. 68 

Women: 

Scribblers*  feeders  (card  feeders) "^  3. 41 

Drawers  (drawing- frame,  tenders) 2. 68 

Doublers  (twisting-frame  tenders) — 

Time 2. 92 

Piece 3. 77 

Winders,  time 2. 92-  3. 16 

Weavers 3.  89 

Burlers  and  knotters 3. 04-3.  28 

Menders  and  fine  drawers- 
Time 3. 53-  3.  77 

Piece 3. 77-  4. 01 

Girls: 

Scribblers'  feeders  (card  feeder.-t) 2. 92 

Worsted  spinners  (frame) 2. 07-  2. 19 

Woolen  piecers 2. 43 

Winders — 

Time L  82 

Piece 2.31 

Doublers 2.07-  2.19 

Weavers 2.  92 

Burlers  and  knotters 2.  55 

The  following  wages  were  the  rates  paid  in  1909  by  a  leading  firm 
in  Dewsbury. 

These  wages,  which  are  practically  unchanged  to-day,  may  be 
taken  as  typical  of  the  rates  paid  by  the  best  firms.  They  are  above 
the  average  of  the  district  in  almost  every  occupation,  but  the  goods 
manufactured  by  this  firm  are  also  better  than  the  general  output. 
A  higher  quality  of  workmanship  is  therefore  needed.    Any  changes 


EEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


821 


which  may  have  taken  place  in  these  rates  between  1909  and  to-day 
are  practically  negligible: 

Average 
weekly  wages. 

Rag  grinders,  men $6. 08 

Rag  pickers,  women 3. 16-4.  38 

Piecers,  boys  and  youths 1. 95-3.  89 

Fettlers  (card  strippers),  men 6. 08, 6. 33 

Beamera,  men 6.  57 

Machine  warpers,  men 6.  69 

Loom  tuners  (loom  fixere),  men 8.  52-9.  73 

Weavers,  women  * 4.  03 

Millers  (fulling  machine  tenders),  men 6.  58,  6.  57 

Dyers,  men 6.  33 

Raisers  (napping  machine  tenders),  men 6.  08,  6.  33 

Pressers:  . 

Men 6.57 

Laborers,  men 6. 08 

Cutters  (shearing  machine  tender): 

Men 6.08 

Boya L95 

Nappers,  men 6. 08 

Fine  drawers,  men 8. 52 

Menders,  women 3. 65 

Cutlers  (folders),  men 6. 08 

Warehousemen 6. 08 

Fixers  (machine  fixers),  men : 7. 30 

Mill  mechanics,  men 8. 27-8.  88 

1  Average  per  week  over  4  years,  Including  holidays. 
JIalifax  district. 

Workers  in  the  woolen  trade  of  Halifax  are  the  worst  paid  of  any 
in  the  West  Riding  of  Yorkshire.  There  may  be  particular  firms 
which  in  Halifax  pay  higher  wages  than  their  competitors  in  other 
centers,  and  there  may  be  particular  occupations  in  the  trade  in 
which  the  Halifax  operatives  earn  above  the  average  of  the  West 
Riding,  but  as  a  generalization  the  rule  holds  true  that  Halifax  wages 
are  low  as  compared  with  other  districts.  There  is  little  woolen 
spinning  in  Halifax,  but  in  one  form  or  another  there  is  a  large 
amount  of  woolen  weaving.  On  the  other  hand,  there  is  a  compara- 
tively large  amount  of  worsted  spinning.  The  carpets  of  Halifax 
are,  of  course,  its  specialty,  but  the  figures  submitted  below  are  for 
the  woolen  and  worsted  industries  omy.  These  tabulations  which 
immediately  follow  show  the  weeldy  wages  for  1911. 


Men 


Wages  in  the  Hali/ax  district,  1911. 

Foremen — 

Preparing  department  (scouring  and  carding) $7. 91 

Spinning  department 7.  30 

Weaving  department 5.  84 

Other  departments 7.  30-8.  27 

Wool  sorters 7.30 

Fettlers  (card  strippers) 5,  60 

Woolen  mule  spinners 4. 38-6. 33 

Twisters-in 7.91 

Dressers  and  finishers 5.  60 

Fullei-s  (fulling  machine  tenders) 5.  60 

Warehousemen 5. 60 

32080-— H.  Doc.  342,  62-2,  vol  2 14 


i 


822 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  OK  SCHBDULE  K. 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOAED  OIT  SCHEDULE  K, 


823 


Liidsand  boys: 

Worsted — 

Spinners |2.  19 

Bawers 2.55 

Jobbers 2. 07 

Doffere .            1, 70 

Wool  piecere 2. 43-2. 08 

Half-timera ft.  7t 

Women: 

Scribblers'  feeders  (card  feeders) S.  1« 

Combers  (comb  tenders) 3. 04 

Backwash  and  gill-box  tenders 2. 92 

Finiahers  (finif'hin^  gill-box  tenders) 2. 88 

Drawers  (arawing-firame  tenSers) 2.  92 

Spinners  ( frame) 2.  55 

Doiiblers 2,  68 

Reelers — 

Time 2. 80 

Piece 3.28 

Winders — 

Time 2.  55 

Piece 3. 28 

Warpers 3, 53 

Woolen  weavers —  ^ 

1  loom 3. 65 

2  looms 3.77 

Worsted  weavers— 

1  loom 3. 41 

2  looms 3. 53 

Burlers  and  knotters 3. 16 

Menders  and  fine  drawers 3. 53 

Do 3.65-4.14 

Girls: 

Wofsted  ipinaere  (fmme) 2. 1^2.  43 

Windewj 2.  43 

Doubleis , -  2. 19-2. 55 

Keighle^. 

The  last  district  for  which  reliable  data  are  obtainable  is  Keighley. 

This  is  a  worsted-fituff  district,  and  practically  no  woolen  spinning 
or  weaving  is  carried  on.  The  following  are  the  average  weekly 
wages  for  1911,  according  to  occupations: 

Hem: 

Foremen — 

Preparing  department $7. 91 

Spinning  department 7. 06-7..  30 

Weaving  department 7. 54 

Wool  sorters — 

Time 7. 30 

Piece 7.54-8.03 

Washers  (scoiiring-machine  tenders) 4. 78 

Combers  (comb  tenders) 4. 50 

Warp  dressersj  piece 8. 27 

Twisters-in,  piece 7. 30 

Worsted  weaver?,  2  looms 5. 12 

Warehousemen 4. 87-5. 84 

Laborers,  generally 4.  38-5. 12 

Lads  and  boys: 
Worsted — 

Spinners 2. 55 

Jobbers 2. 55 

Doffera 2.31 

Half-timers... 0.93 


Women: 

Combers $3. 28 

Backwash  and  box  mindera 3. 16 

Finishers  (finishing  gill-box  tenders) 2. 92 

Drawers  (drawing-frame  tenders) — 

Time 3.04 

Piece 3. 41 

Worsted  spinners  (frame) 2. 80 

Doublers  (twisting-frame  tenders)— 

Time 2. 92 

Piece 2.92-3.65 

Reelers 3. 65 

Winders- 
Time 2. 92 

Piece 3.04 

Warpers,  time 3. 65 

Worsted  weavers — 

Iloom 3.41 

2  looms 3.  65 

Burlers 3.41-3.65 

Menders  and  fine  drawers 4.26 

Girls: 

Worsted  spinners 2. 55 

Doublers 2.80 

Worsted  weavers,  2  looms 3. 04 

Burlers 3.  41 

Half-timers .90 

GENEBAL. 

Some  indications  of  the  recent  trend  of  wa^es  in  the  woolen  and 
worsted  trade  have  already  been  given.  For  some  years  past 
this  movement  has  been  steadilv  upward.  The  workers  are  not 
generally  well  organized.  The  degrees  of  organization  vary  from 
their  almost  complete  inclusion  of  every  man  m  the  trade  (in  some 
districts)  in  their  union  to  the  almost  complete  absence  of  union 
members  among  the  worsted  spinners  and  in  worsted  spinmng 
mills.  Where  there  has  been  organization,  definite  advances  have 
been  obtained  during  the  past  five  years.  This  is  notably  the 
case  with  dyers,  wool  sorters,  and  wool  combers  at  Bradford, 
weavers  on  100  pick  looms  at  Huddersfield,  willeyers,  and  fettlers 
throughout  the  West  Riding,  rag  pullers,  etc.,  at  Ossett,  Dews- 
bury,  and  elsewhere,  and  pattern  weavers  on  piecework  in  the 
Huddersfield  woolen  trade.  It  is  also  the  case  at  many  individual 
mills  with  spinners  in  the  heavy  woolen  district,  weavers  in  Leeds, 
the  heavy  woolen  district,  and  in  isolated  cases  elsewhere,  warpers 
in  most  districts,  mule  piecers  at  Huddersfield,  Colne  Valley,  Batiey, 
and  other  districts. 

The  whole  industiy,  however,  suffers  from  some  notable  defects. 
The  entire  absence  of  a  single  standard  of  wages  for  the  whole  West 
Riding  for  any  occupation  is  remarkable.  There  are  weaving  lists 
at  Huddersfield  and  at  Quiseley;  there  is  one  observed  by  a  group 
of  firms  at  Batiey;  there  are  recognized  standards  for  willeyers  and 
fettlers  at  Leeds,  the  heavy  woolen  district,  Yeadon,  Quiseley  and 
district,  and  the  Huddersfield  district;  there  is  also  in  the  latter  dis- 
trict a  recognized  standard  for  night  piecers,  pattern  weaver,  and 
dyers  and  in  home  dyehouses.     This  practically  completes  the  list. 

Another  obvious  feature  is  the  low  proportion  of  piecework. 
In  the  cotton-goods  industry  65.7  per  cent  of  the  operatives  are  on 
piecework;  in  the  woolen  and  worsted  trade  only  37.9  per  cent  are 
paid  by  this  method.    The  proportion  in  the  different  districts  in 


824 


EEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOAKD  ON  SCHEDULE 


the  woolen  trade  varies  greatly,  as  will  be  seen  from  the  following 
tabulation: 


District, 


Huddersfield 

Heavy  woolen  district 

Leeds. 

Keifihley 

Bradford 

Halifax , 

All  Yorkshire 


Timework- 

Piecework- 

ers. 

ers. 

Per  cent. 

Per  cent. 

45.1 

S0.9 

44.1 

55.9 

66.2 

33.8 

66.7 

33.3 

71.9 

28.1 

76.9 

23.1 

G1.4 

saft 

EARNINGS     IN 


THE     LAWKEXCE,     PROVIDENCE,     AND     PHH^ADELPHIA 
DISTRICT   OF   THE    INITED   STATES. 

The  wages  paid  in  the  woolen  and  worsted  industry  in  the  United 
States  vary  widely,  as  in  England,  from  district  to  district,  from 
town  to  town,  and.  from  mill  to  mill.  Because  of  the  marked  varia- 
tions, it  was  thought  advisable  to  show  at  this  point,  in  tabular  form, 
the  range  of  weekly  wages  paid  in  woolen  and  worsted  mills  in  three 
of  the  principal  centers  of  the  industry  in  the  United  States,  though 
wage  data  for  this  country  will  be  given  in  much  fuller  detail  in  Part 
V.     The  data  have  been  compiled  in  Table  46,  which  follows: 

Table  46. — Comparative  statement  of  highest  and  lowest  weekly  wages  paid  in  specified 
occupations  in  die  Philadelphia,  Providence,  and  Lawrence  districts. 


Occupation. 


Overseers:  1 

Scouring 

Carding 

Combing 

Drawing 

Frame  Bpinning 

Mule  spinning  (woolen). 

Mule  spinning  (worsted) 

Warp  dressing 

Weaving 

Dyeing 

Wool  sorter 

Scoiu-ing  machine  tender — 

Card  feeder 

Card  stripper 

Card  tender 

Comb  tender 

Gill  box  tender 

Back-wash  tender 

Drawing  frame  tender 

Frame  spinner 

Dofler 

Mule  spinner  (woolen) 

Mule  spinner  (worsted) 

Twisting  frame  tender 

Reeler  (piecework). .  .• 

Reeler  (time  work) 

Warp  dresser 

Spooler 

Drawer-in 

Hander-in 

Weaver 

Burler 

Washer  tender 

Fulling  machine  tender 

Steamer  tender 

Dyer  tender 

Shearer 

Pressing  machine  tender 

Examiner 


Range  of  weekly  earning  in  specified  txcvh 
pations  in — 


Philadelphia 
district. 


$15. 
20. 
2a 
20. 
20. 
20. 
20. 
16. 
20. 

4a 

6. 
7. 
5. 
7. 
5. 
5. 
4. 
6. 
4. 
S. 
4. 
10. 

la 

5. 

9. 

6. 
11. 

4 
10. 

3. 

6. 

4. 

7. 

7. 

8 

4. 

6. 

6. 

8. 


00-125.00 
00-50.00 
00-25.00 

00-  saoo 

OO-  35.00 
00-25.00 
00-35.00 
00-20.00 
00-30.00 
00-  65.00 
50-  17.00 
OO-  12.00 
60-  9.00 
00-  11.00 
00-  10.00 
9.50 


OO- 
50- 
OO- 
00- 

oo- 

00- 


9.00 
9.00 
8.00 
7.00 
5.00 
OO-  16.00 
OO-  15.00 
OO-  8.50 
OO-  12.00 
00-  7.50 
16.50 
6.00 
00-  13.00 
50-5.00 

00-  laoo 

50-  10.00 
00-  10.00 
50-  10.00 
00-9.00 
50-  11.00 
50-  11.00 
00-  18.00 
OO-  19.00 


00- 
50- 


Providence 
district. 


$17. 0O-$25. 00 
20.  OO-  2'..  00 
24.00-  30.00 
18. 00-  40. 00 
18.00-24.00 
15. 00-  20. 00 
15.  OO-  20. 00 
16.00-  30.00 
25.  OO-  35. 00 
35. 00-  40. 00 

9.00-  14.50 

7. 50-  11. 50 

6.0O- 

8.0O- 

6.00- 

7.00- 

5.50- 

7.00- 


8.00 
9.00 
7.00 
8.00 
8.00 
8.00 


5. 50-  10.  50 
5.50-  7.50 
4.00-  6.00 
9. 50-  17. 00 


6.00- 
10.00- 
6.00- 
14.50- 
5.00- 
9.00- 
4.00- 

aoo- 

6.50- 
8.00- 
8.0O- 


9.00 
11.50 

7.00 
15.50 
11.00 
12.00 

7.00 
18.00 
10.00 
12.50 

9.00 


8.00-  11.00 
8.00-  11.00 
8.00-  11.60 
7.50-  11.50 


Lawrence 
district. 


$18. 0O-$25. 00 

30. 00-  40. 00 

36. 00-  40. 00 

24-  00-  36.  CO 

35. 00-  40. 00 

40. 00-  45. 00 

20.00-  35.00 

25. 00-  30. 00 

35.00-  60.00 

40.00-  75.00 

10  OO-  16. 50 

too-  11.  OO 

6.00-   8.oa 

7.50-    9.00 

6.00-    8.00 

7.50-  10  00 

6.00-    9.00 

6.60-    8.00 

6.00-    9.50 

6.50-    8.50 

5.0O-    7.50 

11.  OO-  17.00 

13.00-  21.00 

6.00-    8.00 


6.50- 
13.00- 
5.00- 
6.0O- 
4.00- 
9.00- 
6.00- 
7.50- 
a50- 
7.50- 
7.0O- 
7.00- 
7.50- 
11.00- 


7.50 
17.50 

9.00 
12.00 

5.00 
18.00 

9.00 
11.00 
11.00 
11.00 

9.50 
15.50 
10  00 
10.00 


»  Wide  variatloBS  shown  in  overseers'  earnings  are  due  partly  to  difference  In  methoda  of  organization 
■nd  the  fact  that  in  some  mills  they  supervise  more  than  one  department. 


BEPOBT  OP  TABIFF  BOAKD  OX  SCHEDULE  K. 


825 


The  districts  shown  in  the  above  table  are  the  Philadelpliia,  Law- 
rence, and  Providence  districts.  These  cities,  in  the  order  named, 
are  the  leading  cities  in  woolen  and  worsted  manufacture  in  the 
United  States.  (See  U.  S.  Census  Report  on  Manufactures:  1905, 
Part  III,  p.  88.) 

Moreover,  near  these  cities  there  are  a  number  of  localities  in  which 
various  branches  of  woolen  and  worsted  manufacture  are  conducted 
on  a  large  scale.  And  in  compiling  the  data  for  the  above  table  the 
other  localities  beside  the  principal  city  or  center  have  been  consid- 
ered. Thus  for  the  purposes  of  the  above  table  the  Philadelphia  dis- 
trict includes  several  localities  in  Pennsylvania  near  that  city  as  well 
as  several  in  New  Jersey.  The  Providence  district  comprises  mills 
not  only  in  Providence  but  in  other  localities  in  Rhode  Island  and 
Connecticut,  and  in  the  Lawrence  district  several  other  towns  in 
Massachusetts  are  included. 

It  can  not  be  said  so  definitelv  as  in  the  case  of  England,  that  any 
branches  of  woolen  and  worsted  manufacture  is  largely  concentrated 
in  one  or  two  localities  or  districts,  although  in  some  districts  one 
branch  of  the  industry  is  conducted  on  a  very  extensive  scale  as,  for 
example,  top  and  yarn  making  in  the  Lawrence  district.  The  facts 
are  that  in  each  of  the  specified  districts  all  branches  of  the  industry 
are  important 

However,  it  should  be  said  that  the  ranges  of  wages  are  only  for  the 
mills  investigated  by  the  Tariff  Board,  and  that  quite  possibly  there 
are  other  mifls  in  the  specified  districts  in  which  lower  or  higher  wages 
are  paid  than  those  shown  above. 

A  COMPARISON  OF  THE  EARNINGS  OF  WOOLEN  AND  WORSTED  OPERA- 
TIVES  IN   THE   UNITED   STATES   AND   GREAT   BRITAIN. 

The  data  upon  which  the  following  comparative  table  of  earnings 
is  based  were  obtained  by  agents  of  the  Tariff  Board  in  the  United 
States  at  woolen  and  worsted  mills  in  14  States,  including  New  Eng- 
land, New  York,  New  Jersey,  Pennsylvania,  Oliio,  Indiana,  Micliigan, 
Wisconsin,  and  Kentucky. 

The  data  for  Great  Britain  are  those  contained  in  the  report  of  the 
British  Board  of  Trade  on  earnings  in  the  textile  trade,  published  in 
1909,  giving  earnings  for  the  year  1906.  The  agents  of  the  Tariff 
Board  verified  the  English  data  and  report  no  material  change  in  the 
rates. 

The  board  of  trade  classified  the  principal  occupations  and  reported 
the  number  in  each  who  worked  a  full-time  week  with  the  average 
earnings  of  the  group  in  the  period.  For  the  purposes  of  comparison 
the  number  of  persona  employed  in  the  same  occupations  in  the 
United  States,  in  the  total  of  35,029  persons  for  whom  rates  and 
earnings  were  obtained,  have  been  classified  in  the  same  manner  and 
the  average  earnings  of  each  group  for  a  full-time  week  of  55.6  hours 
ascertained. 


826 

Table  47. 


KBPOBT  OP  TABIFF  BOAED  OK   SCHEDITL^  K. 

—Ocmpaiiims  and  weekly  fidUwm  mmings  in  the  Uniied  States  and  in 
Great  Britain  in  the  vxmlen  and  worsted  industry. 


Occupation. 


Bex. 


Average  full-time  earninga  of 
55.6  hours. 


Kind 
of 

wiirk. 


driers. 


Wool  sorter 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Wool  washers,  sconreni, 

Do 

Card  strippPTS  and  tenders 

Comb  tenders -- 

Do 

Back  wash  and  gill- box  minders. 

Do 

Drawing-frame  tender 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Wool  spinners  (iniile) 

Do 

Warp  dreoaefs 

Do 

Worsted-frame  spinners 

Do 

Do 

Eeelers 

Do 

Winders 

Do 

Do... 

Do 

Woolen  weavers 

Do 

W'OTsted  weavers 

Do • 

Biirlers. -  -  ■ 

Do 

Menders ■ 

Do 

General  laborers 


Male... 

..do 

Female . 

.  .do 

Male.... 
..do  — 
.  .do  — 
..do.... 
Female . 

Male 

Female . 

Male 

. .  .do. ... 
Female . 
.  -do  — 

Male 

..do 

...do 

...do 

...do... 
Female 
...do... 
...do... 
...do... 
Male.. 
..do... 
Female.. 
...do.... 
Male... 
Female 
Male . . . 
Female 
...do... 
...do... 
...do... 
...do.... 
Male.. 


Time., 
Piece  . 
Time. 
Piece . 
Time  , 
Piece . 
Time  , 
..do. 

>  m  m  \fMM   •  « 

..do  - 
. .  .do . 
. .  .do . 
Piece 

Time 

Piece 

Time. 

Piece. 

Time. 

Piece. 

Time. 

...do.. 

Jr  ll!CC» 

Time. 
Piece. 
Time. 

Time- 
Piece. 
...do.. 
...do.. 
.  ..do.. 
...do.. 
Time. 
Piece. 
Time. 
Piet^o. 
Time. 


United  States. 


Num- 
ber 
of 

opera- 
tives. 


197 
273 

srM 

14 
247 


393 

160 

110 

356 

469 

234 

9 

1,384 

43 

25 

393 

327 

25 

233 

908 

58 

86 

57 

41 

f7 

168 

314 

84T 

545 

1,400 

1,782 

506 

853 

303 

1,072 

832 


Aver- 
age 
wewcly 

ings. 


S1Z38 
13.42 

9.71 
11.19 

8.21 


7.81 

7.8S 

^.53 

6.73 

5.84 

6.80 

8.39 

6.21 

6.79 

10.40 

11.75 

12.94 

14.12 

7.40 

6.40 

6.46 

5.46 

6.93 

7.13 

7.75 

5.53 

7.08 

10.63 

10.54 

13.36 

9.55 

6.16 

7.12 

7.77 

9.19 

8.21 


United  King- 
dom. 


Num- 
ber 
of 
opera- 
tives. 


516 
598 


531 
97 
772 
402 
810 


635 


Aver- 
age 

weekly 
earn- 
ings. 


Excess 
United 
States 
over 
Great 
Brit- 
ain. 


17.22 

7.71 


4.93 
6.04 
5.45 
4.26 
3.00 


2.83 


2,831 
434 

490 

406 

89 

453 


9,613 


297 
723 


861 

1,014 

2,059 

10,579 

928 
8,560 

861 
1,065 

464 
1,798 

350 


2.68 
3.41 
5.98 
7.93 
6.53 
7,91 


2.35 


Per  a. 
71.5 
74.1 


6«i.5 


43.3 

84.3 

117.3 


106.4 


131.7 
99.1 
73.9 
48.2 

98.  •■ 
78.  A 


2.94 
3.56 


2.(16 
3.35 
6.21 
3.83 
6.12 
3.59 
8.20 
3.51 
3.63 
4.30 
174 


184.4 


85.7 

94.7 


107.9 
111.3 

71.2 
175.2 
102.0 
166.0 

92.2 
102.8 
114.0 
112.2 

73.2 


Agents  of  the  Tariff  Board  copied  the  pay  roils  of  two  mills,  one 
in  the  United  States  and  one  in  England,  making  the  same  class  of 

goods. 

The  employees  in  the  English  mill  were  workmg  65i  hours  a  week 
and  those  in  the  United  States  56  hours.  The  English  rates  were 
raised  to  a  56-hour  basis.  The  names  of  tlie  occupations  are  those 
in  the  English  mOls. 

This  comparison  is  given  as  of  interest  because  the  two  mills  were 
of  practically  identical  character  in  respect  to  macliinery  and  char- 
acter of  pro'duct.  The  wages  in  the  American  mill  are  not  neces- 
sarily t^-i^ical  of  wages  in  America,  nor  those  in  the  English  mill 
necessarily  typical  of  wages  for  the  woolen  industry  in  England, 
but  they  can  be  easily  compared  with  prevailing  rates  as  given  m 
the  preceding  table. 


BEPOBT  OF   TABIFF  BOARD   ON   SCHEDUIiE   K. 


827 


Tablb  48. — A  comparison  of  occupations  and  mmings  in  one  English  and  one  Amaican 
mill  maJcing  the  same  class  of  goods,  based  on  actual  pay  rolls  of  the  two  mills,  and  on 
a  week  of  56  hours  in  each  case. 


Department  and  occupation. 

Rates  of  wages  per 
week  of  56  hours 
in  specified  occu- 
pations. 

Excess 
United 
States 

United 

States. 

England. 

over 
England. 

Wool-sorting  department: 

Wool  sorters 

$16.00 
16.14 

$8.81 
9.52 

Percent, 

81.61 

Do 

69.54 

Average 

16.08 

9.02 

78.27 

Laborers 

10.00 
12.00 

4.91 
4.91 

103. 67 

Do 

144. 40 

Averaee 

10.17 

4.91 

107. 13 

Wool-ficouring  department: 

Wool  scourers 

9.00 

9.00 
10.00 

5.15 
5.39 
0.13 

74.75 

Do 

66. 9S 

Do 

63.13 

Averaee 

9.33 

5.35 

74.39 

Wool  dilers 

9.50 
9.50 

5.62 
4.91 

69.04 

Do -  ... 

93. 4S 

Average 

9.50 

5.27 

80.27 

Carding  department: 

Carders 

8.00 
9.00 
9.60 

3.43 
4.66 
4.66 

133. 23 

Do 

93.13 

Do 

103.86 

A  verftge ...  .  .  .  ,  ^  .  .  ^ 

8.26 

4.35 

89.89 

Combing  department: 

Gill-box  minder 

7.00 
8.00 
9.20 
9.20 
9.20 

4.42 
4.66 
4.90 
5.39 

5.80 

58.37 

Do 

71.67 

Do 

87.76 

Do 

70  69 

Do 

56.20 

Average 

7.58 

4.79 

58  25 

Backwasher  minder 

8.50 
8.50 

5.15 
4.90 

65  05 

Do 

73  47 

Average 

8.50 

5.03 

68  99 

Noble  comb  minder 

9.50 
9.50 

5.15 
5.30 

84  47 

Do 

76  25 

Average 

9.50 

5.25 

80  9S 

Li3ter  comb  minder 

9.00 
9.00 
9.00 

5.15 
4.90 
5.39 

74  76 

Do 

83  67 

Do 

66  98 

Average 

9.00 

5.10 

7fi  47 

Comb  jobber  (handy  man) 

10.00 
9.50 
9.00 
8.50 

5.89 
5.39 
5.15 
4.90 

69  78 

Do 

7fi  SS 

Do 

74  7(> 

Do 

73  47 

Average 

9.25 

5.33 

73.55 

Spinning  department: 

Drawing-frame  tender 

7.00 
7.00 
7.00 

3.07 
3.31 
3.43 

123  01 

Do 

111  48 

Do 

104.08 

Average , 

7.00            ^  '^i   1 

118  07 

18 


.HEPOKT  OF  TABIFF  BOAED  ON   SCHEBUIiE  K. 


Table  48. — A  comparismi  of  occupations  and  earnings  in  one  English  and  one  American 
mill  making  the  same  class  of  goods,  based  on  actual  pay  rolls  of  the  two  mills,  and  on 
a  week  of  56  hours  in  each  case — Continued. 


Ueparfinent  and  occupation. 


Spinning  department— (Continued. 
Frame  spinner— 

160  spindles 

160  long  spindles 

180  spindles 

240spindlea 

240  long  spindles 

Doff  era 

Do 


Average. 


Mechanical  doffers. 

Do 

Do 

Do 

Eoving  hands 

Bobbin  boya 

Bobbin  setters 

Do 


Average... 


Twisters. 

Warpers. 

Do.. 


jfi.  vorag)© « 


Jobbers  (handy  men). 

Do 


Average. 

Yam  scourers . 

Do 

0 


Average. 


Weaving  department: 

Warp  dre.«5ers 

AY  arp  twisters 

Do 


Average . 


Piece  examiners. 

Do 

Do 

Do 


Average. 


Mechanical  department: 

Steam  engineers 

Do 


Average. 


Oiler  and  greaser. 
Do 


Average. 


Stokers. 
Do. 


Average. 


Rates  of  wages  per 
week  of  56  hours 
in  specified  occu- 
pations. 


United 
States. 


5.00 
6.00 
.5.25 
6.00 
7.00 
4.50 
4.50 


4.50 


6.00 
6.00 
8.00 
9.00 
6.00 
6.00 
4.50 
5.00 


4.86 


7.00 
8.00 
7.00 


7.80 


5.00 
6.00 


5.33 


11.00 
11.00 
11.00 


11.00 


14.69 
15.00 
11.00 


13.00 


12.50 
12.00 
11.50 
10.00 


11.86 


13.50 
13.50 


13.50 


12.00 
10.00 


England 


11.00 


12.50 
11.60 

11.70 


2.33 
2.45 
2.45 
2.81 
2.% 
2.45 
2.33 


«■  ^rk 


2.45 
2.45 
2.33 
2.33 


2.33 


2.05 
3.31 
3.31 


3.31 


2.45 
2.45 


2.45 


6.62 
4.42 
4.66 


5.03 


8.86 
8.58 
8.58 


8.58 


6.88 
6.38 
5.89 
5.89 


6.38 


6.86 
5.89 


6.38 


6.15 
6.15 


5.15 


6.13 
4.90 

6.62 


Excess 

United 

States 

over 

England. 


Per  ceni. 
114.50 
144.90 
114.29 
113.52 
137.29 
83.67 
93.13 


02.31 


144.90 

104.08 

93.13 

114.59 


108.58 


137.29 
141.69 
111.48 


135.66 


104.08 
144.90 


117.56 


81.27 
148.87 
136.05 


118.60 


65.80 
74.83 
28.21 


51.52 


82.22 
88.09 

69.78 


85.89 


96.79 
129.20 


111.91 


133.01 
94.17 


112.59 


103.92 
136.73 

111.96 


BEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


829 


Table  48. — A  comparison  of  occupations  and  earnings  in  one  English  and  one  American 
mill  making  the  same  class  of  goods,  based  on  actual  pay  rolls  of  the  two  mills,  and  on 
a  week  of  66  hows  in  each  case — Continued. 


I 


Department  and  occupation. 

Rates  of  wages  per 
week  of  5<3  hours 
in  specified  occu- 
pations. 

Excess 
United 
States 

V 

United 
States. 

England. 

over 
England. 

Mechanical  department— Continued. 

Maciiiuisls , 

16.00 
15.00 
14.00 
13.00 

7.85 
6.38 
6.38 
6.38 

Per  cenL 
103.82 

Do 

135.11 

Do 

119.44 

Do 

103.76 

Average 

14.73 

7.60 

93.82 

CaiDenters  and  joiners 

16.00 
15.00 
13.50 
13.00 

8.09 

8.33 

•6.13 

6.13 

97.78 

Do 

80.07 

Do 

120.23 

Do 

112.07 

Averaee 

14.83 

7.52 

97.21 

Blacksmith 

16.00 

7.85 

103.82 

Nieht  watchmen 

14.00 
14.00 

5.89 
5.39 

137. 69 

Do 

159. 74 

Average 

14.00 

5. 64 

148.23 

ijCiiiii 


880  BOEPOBT  OF  TAEIFF  BOABD  OK  SCHEDTTUS  K. 

WACIBS  IN  VABIOT7S  OOOTTPATIONS  IN  GBBMANY. 

In  the  table  which  follows  are  shown  rates  of  pay  for  timeworkera 
in  different  occupations.  As  far  as  possible  the  sexes  of  those  receiv- 
ing the  rates  are  shown.  Most  of  ttie  mills,  in  which  the  time  rates 
shown  were  paid,  also  paid  on  a  piece-rate  basis  for  the  same  work, 
but  the  units  of  pay  were  too  numerous  for  presentation  in  a  general 
table.  Frequently  where  piece  rates  were  paid  a  general  equivalent 
in  hourly  rates  was  named  or  else  a  minimum  week's  earmngs  for 
pieceworkers,  and  these  eauivalents  and  guaranteed  mimmum  earn- 
ings are  included  in  the  table  which  follows: 


Occupation. 


Beomers  and  warpers 

Bobbin  and  spool  setters  in  beaming  depart- 
ment  

Bobbin  boys  in  spinning  room 

Burlers  and  menders 

Card  tenders 

Cleaning  up  the  loom  for  new  warp 

Coinbiiig-room  hands 

Comb  tenders  and  gill-box  minders 

Doublers  and  twisters 

Drawing  in  through  harnesses 

Drawing  in  through  reeds 

Drawing-room  hands 

Dye-house  foreman 

Dye-house  hands 

Dyers ■ 

Filling  spoolers 

Finishing-room  hands 

Fullers 

Loom  fixers 

Mule  spinners 

Piecers 

Press  tenders 

Rag  sorters. 

Reelers 

Repair-room  hands 

Scouring-machine  tenders 

Second  hands  In  beaming  department 

Setting  up  harnesses  for  new  cut 

Bhoddy-machine  tenders 

Spinning-room  hands 

Steam  cloth  finishers 

Teaselers 

Tenterers - 


Num- 
ber ol 
estab- 
lish- 
ments. 


Tiers  in  or  twisters  in 

Warehouse  hands 

Winders 

Wool  sorters 

Yarn  packers  and  steamers. 

Yam  sizers 


15 

5 
1 
10 
2 
1 
I 
1 
2 
3 
3 
1 
1 
3 
3 
1 
1 
3 
1 
1 
1 
1 
2 
2 
1 
2 
7 
3 
1 

1 
2 
1 

2 
1 
1 
2 
2 
13 
1 
7 


Rate  of  pay  per  week. 


Males.. 


From— 


To— 


$3.  ol 


3.71 
4.76 

'4.28 


6.30 
4.98 


4.20 
'4.05 


ta.43 


2.29 
'6.42 


6.00 


4.85 

10.71 

4.57 

7.62 

"5."  30* 


Females. 


From—    To— 


<ip—«  X'4 


2.14 
3.14 


3.14 


$3.81 


4.00 
4.28 
2.38 
2.62 
3.28 
3.67 


3.28 


4.52 
6.54 
5.28 


3.57 
4.20 


6.42 

'i'.m 

'5*7i 
'3*71 


6.95 
4.28 


5.47 


3.8^1 


2.14 


3.57 
3.57 


2.38 


Sex  not  speci- 
fied. 


From— 


13.57 
3.67 


4.26 


3.57 

4.28 


5.28 
4.a5 


5.42 
5.95 


2.  Sli 


3.57 
3.71 

2. 62 
4.00 


To— 


t2.02 


4.28 
4.28 


2.64 


4.57 


.048 


6.  in 


4.23 


5.71 

"i'Ah' 


4.05 


.  (K) 


>  Rate  per  hour. 


A  lars:er  number  of  estfiblishments  paid  bcamers  and  warpers  on  a 
piece-rale  basis  than  on  time  rates,  the  prevailing  unit  of  pay  being 
100,000  meters  or  109,361  yards,  and  the  rate  per  unit  being  12  cents. 
The  beamera  on  machines  with  hand  power  were  paid  more  than  those 
on  power  machines.  One  establishment  paid  from  3  to  7  mills  per 
pound  on  2-ply  yams  and  from  4  to  14  mills  per  pound  on  1-ply  yams. 


BEPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


831 


For  burling  and  mending  one  establishment  paid  from  11  to  21 
cents  per  cut.  For  sewing  the  piece  rate  in  two  establishments 
ranged  from  48  cents  to  $1.14  per  cut  of  52  yards. 

^ven  establishments  paid  weavers  from  1.2  to  1.8  cents  per  100 
warp  ends  for  drawing  in  through  the  harnesses.  As  a  rule,  the 
weaver  in  Germanv  does  his  own  drawing  in  and  reeding  in,  and  does 
it  at  the  loom.  For  drawing  in  through  the  reed  he  is  paid  from  5 
to  11  mills  per  100  ends,  or  a  flat  rate  of  from  9.5  to  35.7  cents  each 
time  a  change  of  cut  necessitates  such  work.  These  dra wing-in  rates 
vary  both  according  to  the  number  of  harnesses  and  reeds  and  to  the 
number  of  colors  in  the  warp. 

Handers  in  received  from  5  to  7  mills  per  100  ends.  Another  work 
for  which  the  German  weaver  is  paid  is  hanging  the  harnesses  and 
reed  in  the  loom  preparatory  to  weaving  a  new  warp.  For  this  he 
receives  1.2  cents  per  harness,  if  he  has  some  one  to  help  him,  and 
twice  as  much  if  he  does  it  alone.  Other  establishments  paid  a  flat 
rate  of  from  11.9  to  95.2  cents  for  hanging  the  harnesses  and  reed. 
For  tving  in  or  twisting  in  on  ordinary  products  24  establishments 

Eaid  from  7  to  20  mills  for  100  ends,  and  on  pattern  products  8  estab- 
shments  paid  from  12  to  24  mills  per  100  ends. 

Winders  in  one  establishment  received  from  8.3  to  13.1  cents  for 
winding  54,680  yards. 

The  lollowing  tables  deal  with  the  weekly  earnings  of  workers  in  the 
woolen  and  worsted  industry  in  Germany  by  specified  occupations. 

Table  49  is  a  compilation  of  returns  made  to  the  central  organic 
zation  of  textile  workers,  and  shows  wages  by  specific  occupations  in 
a  number  of  different  locahties.  The  table  snows  the  number  of 
returns  on  the  indicated  occupation  from  each  locality  and  the  wage 
rate  for  males  and  females.  The  first  column  shows  the  total  num- 
ber reporting  for  the  entire  Nieder-Lausitz  region,  and  the  average 
wage  for  the  entire  region.  The  other  columns  show  the  facts  for 
localities  in  that  region,  showing  the  rates  at  Forst,  Cottbus,  Sperm- 
berg,  etc. 

Table  49. — Average  weekly  pay  in  gpecijled  occupatUms  in  Germany. 


. 

Sex. 

Neider-Lausitz 
region. 

Cottbxis. 

Forst. 

Spermberg. 

Occupation. 

Num- 
ber of 
persons 
report- 
ing. 

Aver- 
age 
pay 
per 

week. 

Num- 
ber of 
persons 
report- 
ing. 

Aver- 
age 
pay 
per 

week 

Num- 
ber of 
persons 
report- 
ing. 

Aver- 
age 
pay 
per 

week. 

Num- 
ber of 
persons 
report- 
ing. 

Aver- 
age 
pay 

per 

week. 

Filling  spoolers 

Warp  spoolers 

Twisters 

Female.... 
do.,  .. 

....  do . 

202 

26.S 

474 

66 

179 

298 
187 
632 

731 

22 

574 

372 

7 

$3.03 
2.99 
2.88 
2.12 

3.28 

2.73 
3.62 
3.42 

3.15 
4.08 
2.62 
3.57 
2.26 

152 

246 

172 

31 

35 

62 

62 
456 

137 

19 

237 

334 

$2.68 
3.04 
3.J5 
1.84 

3.20 

2.84 
3.48 
3.32 

3.46 
4.03 
2.57 
3.61 

19     S2.91 
9       3.33 

23 

7 

71 

18 

46 

66 
39 
46 

95 
2 

171 
6 

7 

tl.94 
1.95 
2.61 
2.23 

3.49 

3.01 
3.71 
3.54 

3.-33 
4.52 
2.67 
3.09 
2  26 

Bobbin  setters 

Opening     and     picker 

room  hands. 
Card-room  hands 

Male  and 

female. 

do 

do 

17 

26 

67 

29 
82 

64 

1 

92 

32 

2.51 

4.01 

2. 89 
4.50 
3.93 

3.96 
4.28 
2.94 
3.30 

Fullinf^-niiil  hands 

Dye-house  hands 

Finishing-room  hands. . . 
Cloth  sizers  and  dressers. 

Burlers  and  menders 

Sewers... 

Male 

Male  and 
female. 

•  •  •  ■  «  \X\}  «  •  •  •  • 

Male 

Female-.. 
.  ....do..... 

Sorters     and      shoddy 

Male 

pickers. 

Total 

4.012 

3.224 

1,943 

3.159 

ri.12        5  oif: 

597 

2.959 

832 


REPOKT  OF  TARIFF  BOABB  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


Table  49. — Average  weeMif  pay  in  Mpedfied  occupationa  in  (Germany— Continued. 


Occupation. 


Sex. 


Filling  spoolers Female. . . . 

Warp  spoolers 'lo 

Twisters do 

Bobbin  setters Male  and 

female. 

Oijening   and    picker    room  do 

hands. 

Card-room  hands 

Fulling-inill  hands 

Dye-house  hands 


Flnlshtop-room  hands 

Cloth  sizors  and  dressers 

Barters  and  menders 

Sewers 

Boilers  and  shoddy  pickers. . . 


Total- 


do 

Male 

Male  and 

femak*. 

do 

Male 

Female — 

do 

Male 


SommerMd. 


Numlier 
of  per- 
sons rev 

porting. 


65 
2i 
2} 


90 

"34 


Avera:g6 

pay  per 

wedc 


#1.  tJH 
l.M 
1.84 


2.79 

2-53 
3.  12 

a.  09 


2.73 

'2.'4J' 


Finstenraldo. 


Guben. 


Number 

of  pt-r- 
soiis  re- 
porting. 


Average 

pay  per 

week. 


Number 
of  per- 
sons re- 
porting. 


Average 

pay  per 

week. 


21 


t3.60 


16 

34 
13 


$'1. 71 

103 

3.81 


303 


2.  HO 


223 

40 


2.08 
2.' 08" 


10 

14 

21 
25 

122 


2.95 

2.62 
3. 08 
3.51 

2.89 


320 


2.839 


213 


3.045 


Below  in  Table  50  will  be  found  the  earnings  of  male  and  female 
operatiTes  in  woolen  and  worsted  mills  covenng  a  large  number  of 
occupations  and  in  many  instances  a  considerable  period  of  time. 

These  represent  the  pay  checks  of  employees,  some  of  whom, 
being  time  workera  at  a  weekly  rate,  show  only  the  hours  for  one 
week.  Piece  workers  show  the  mdividiial's  pay  for  ajt  least  a  month, 
some  for  three  or  more  months.  In  each  case  the  total  hours  worked 
in  the  period  coTered  are  shown,  together  with  total  earnings  and 
average  hourly  rate.  For  the  most  part  these  are  from  the  Lucken- 
walde  District,  though  some  are  from  near  Aachen, 

Averages  are  not  of  much  value  based  on  so  few  cases  as  we  find 
in  some  occupations,  but  are  given  for  such  value  as  they  may  have. 
Female  menders  average  7.22  cents  per  hour.  These  were  all  from 
in  or  near  Luckenwalde;  male  carders  in  a  mill  near  Aachen  average 
8.22  cents  an  hour.  Female  spinners  (ring  frame)  in  Luckenwalde 
average  5.64  cents  an  hour,  etc. 

Table  ^.—Hourly  earnings  of  operatives  in  German  woolen  and  worsted  miUs,  hy  occu- 
pation and  MX. 


Occupation. 


Spinners- 


Do- 
Do.. 
Do.. 
Do- 
Do.. 
Do.. 
Do.. 
Do.. 
Do.. 
Do-. 
Do.. 
Do.. 
Do.. 
Do.. 
Do.. 
Do.. 
Do.. 
Do- 


Sex. 


Female. 
..do.... 


.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
•do. 
-do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 


Age. 

Total  hours 

worked. 

15 

522 

16 

60 

16 

519 

17 

674.5 

18 

721.5 

18 

646.6 

18 

702 

20 

692.5 

20 

595 

20 

692.5 

24 

712 

24 

679 

24 

667 

26 

680 

30 

617.75 

31 

602.5 

32 

613 

34 

703 

30 

598 

Total 

wages. 


134.19 
2.57 
31.32 
30.15 
35.50 
32.62 
43.26 
43.32 
34.31 
37.74 
42.57 
33.67 
33.22 
34.65 
36.97 
38.03 
35.20 
37.63 
35.44 


Rate  per 
hour. 


SO.  066 
.043 
.060 
.053 
.049 
.061 
.062 
.063 
.058 
.055 
.060 
.050 
.050 
.060 
.060 
.065 
.057 
.064 
.059 


KEPOBT  OF   TAKIFF   BO.iBD   ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


833 


Table  50. — Hourly  earnings  of  operatives  in  German  woolen  and  worsted  mills,  by 

occupation  and  sea;— Continued. 


Occupation. 


Spinners. 

Do... 

Do... 

Do... 

Do... 

Do... 
Mender. . 

Do... 

Do... 

Do... 

Do... 

Do... 

Do... 

Do... 

Do... 

Do... 

Do... 

Do.... 

Do... 

Do... 

Do... 

Do.... 

Do.... 

Do.... 

Do.... 

Do.... 

Do.... 

Do.... 

Do.... 

Do.... 

Do.... 

Do.... 

Do.... 

Do.... 

Do.... 

Do.... 

Do.... 

Do..-. 

Do-... 
Carder 

Do..-. 

Do.... 

Do.-.. 

Do...- 

Do.... 

Do.... 

Do--.- 

Do..- 

Do.... 

Do.... 

Do.... 

Do-..- 

Do.... 
Teaseler. . 

Do... 

Do... 

Do... 

Do... 

Do... 
Spooler... 

Do... 

Do... 

Do... 

Do... 
Twister... 

Do... 

Do... 

Do... 

Do... 

Do... 

Do... 
OpeiK^r... 

Do... 

Do... 

Do.... 
Piecers 

Do..., 

Do.... 


Sex. 


Female 
Male... 
..do.... 
.-do.... 
-.do...., 


Age. 


42 


..do..-. 
Female. 
..do.... 
.-do.... 
..do-... 


.do. 
-do- 
.do. 


.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 
.do. 


-do 

-do 

-do 


...do 

..-do 

..do 

.-do 

-.do 

--do 

..do 

..do 

..do 

..do 

..do 

..do 

.-do 

.-do 

..do 

.-do 

..do 

-.do 

Male 

.-do 

-.do 

..do 

..do 

..do 

..do 

..do 

..do 

.-do 

..do 

Female 

..do 

..do 

Male 

..do 

..do 

..do 

.-do 

..do 

Female 

..do 

..do 


...ao.. 
.--do-- 
...do.. 
--do.. 
..do.. 
..do., 
.-do-. 
...do. 
...do.. 
Male. 
..do-- 
..do.. 
..do., 
--do-- 
.-do.. 
..do.. 


Total  hours 
worked. 


16 

16 

16 

17 

17 

18 

18 

18 

18 

19 

19 

19 

19 

21 

21 

22 

23 

24 

24 

24 

25 

25 

25 

29 

30 

30 

32 

33 

37 

37 

38 

41 

51 


31 
•33 
34 
54 
61 
62 
17 
19 
38 
45 
47 
21 
21 
22 
22 
22 
23 
26 


619 

250 

25G 

250 

256 

256 

451.25 

547.50 

493 

517 

721.50 

493.75 

488.50 

388.50 

487 

362 

721.50 

015.50 

631 

444.75 

532.50 

458.50 

481.50 

574. 75 

484 

550.50 

55.50 
384.75 
548 
005.75 

50 
369 
451.75 
480 
4()3 
635 
405 

391.25 
457 
256 
256 
256 
256 
256 
256 
256 
256 
256 
256 
256 
256 
252 
252 

60 
60 
651. 75 

60 

60 

60 
691 
614.50 
692.50 
682.50 
682.75 
721.50 
721.50 
674 
645.50 
691 

607.50 
695.50 
256 
256 
256 
126 
256 
256 
256 


Total 
wages. 


136.00 
28.44 
30.42 
25.35 
29.16 
24.82 
38.24 
40.32 
35.09 
35.17 
39.33 
41.90 
35.94 
25.66 
35.81 
33.16 
45.43 
43.21 
31.73 
36.95 
38.30 
29.77 
32.32 
39.30 
42.37 
37.01 
3.93 
31.42 
35.79 
47.81 
3.93 
28.81 
33.58 
34.99 
41.79 
35.24 
36. 31 
30.01 
34.73 
21.73 
23.34 
19.74 
17.80 
20.77 
24.75 
23.61 
23.51 
15.47 
19.42 
21.66 
14.23 
13.28 
16.09 
3.71 
3.57 
40.73 
3.86 
3.36 
3.28 
29.39 
41.00 
42.11 
34.88 
40.61 
44.16 
53.72 
43.80 
47.97 
41.29 
38.01 
41.98 
24.19 
18.08 
17.08 
9.14 
13.61 
11.05 
10.83 


Rate  per 
hour. 


10.053 
.1111 
.1188 
.0990 
.1139 
.0970 
.0847 
.0735 
.0724 
.0680 
.0545 
.0847 
.0735 
.0661 
.0735 
.0916 
.0630 
.0593 
.0502 
.0831 
.0719 
.0649 
.0797 
.0683 
.0876 
.0674 
.0707 
.0816 
.0609 
.0719 
.0655 
.0781 
.0743 
.0728 
.0902 
.0555 
.0897 
.0766 
.0759 
.0849 
.0912 
.0771 
.0695 
.0811 
.0967 
.0919 
.0919 
.0604 
.0759 
.0646 
.0556 
.0527 
4)638 
.0619 
.0595 
.0625 
.0643 
.0559 
.0547 
.0426 
.0666 
.0607 
.0511 
.0595 
.0612 
.0744 
.0650 
.0743 
.0597 
.0625 
.0604 
.0945 
.0706 
.0667 
.0725 
.0532 
.0432 
.0423 


834 


Table  M.— 


EKPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDUO;   K. 

Howrly  earnings  of  operatims  in  German  woolen  and  worsted  millSj  hf 
hccupa^  a^  mx-4:ontmued. 


Ocraipation. 

Sex. 

Age. 

Total  hotira 
worked. 

Total 

wagas. 

Rate  per 
hour. 

I*iecPrs ....                   

Male 

256 
256 
256 
256 
256 
256 
256 

60 
680.  SO 

60 

60 

60 

60 
729 

€0 

60 
773 

60 

780 

614 

1,110 

687.30 

60 

60 

60 
646 

60 

644.75 
718.25 
654 

60 

60 

68 

791.90 
444 

676.75 
721.50 
620 

60 

tlO.76 
11.38 
11.11 
10.14 

ia78 

8.57 

8.90 

4.76 

38.06 

3.43 

3.86 

3.00 

3.21 

80.75 

3.86 

4.07 

63.42 

3.00 

80.67 

33.68 

34.# 

82.33 

27.  M 

3.86 

4.00 

4.28 

34.65 

3.36 

37.50 

29.38 

29.31 

3.64 

3.88 

3.21 

41.24 

31.58 

46.04 

46.40 

44.66 

3.21 

SO.  0420 

Do 

.  ..do 

.0444 

Do 

...do 

.0434 

Do 

.  ..do 

.0896 

Do.   ..                

...do 

.0421 

Do 

do 

.0335 

Do                                                                  

...do 

.0348 

YaiB^tock  man 

'Dniwer-in 

Cloth  presaer 

PiclEU-'macliiiie  tender 

Card  tender 

Do , 

Wuru  sizer 

VtinincTnill  JmiW} 

Male. 

Feraale..-. 

Male 

...do 

Female.... 
...do 

Mate 

.. .do. 

45 
16 
34 
42 
25 
SO 
54 
30 
42 
42 
44 
34 
29 
30 
41 
15 
19 
51 
29 
17 
23 
25 
37 
59 
54 
67 
17 
19 
19 
22 
29 
29 
30 

.0793 

.0339 
.0571 
.0643 
.0500 
.0.^% 
.1107 
.0643 

Do 

...do 

.0678 

Do 

...do 

.0821 

JtBlsiiing-ioom  hand 

Dry  w .  ...a...... 

...do 

...do 

.0500 
.1035 

Sorter 

Female 

. .  .do... .... 

.0548 

Do                                                  

0312 

Do 

.  ..do 

.0495 

Sooiil  or  bobbin aeltcr...                 

...do 

.0407 

1$ym 

Mate 

.  ..do 

.0643 

Do 

.0666 

ll*rt©r  and  winder 

...do 

.0714 

Burler 

Ftomate 

...do 

.0536 

Do 

.0559 

Do 

...do 

.0583 

Do 

. .  .do 

.0409 

Do  ...                  

...do 

.0447 

W«tp  beamer 

Mate 

...do 

.0607 

Do 

.0&13 

Do 

Femate 

...do 

.0530 

Do  ...                                

.0587 

Do 

...do 

.0711 

Do 

. .  .do***.* . . 

.0680 

Do 

...do.**..... 

.0643 

Do 

...do 

.0720 

Do .            .               .        . 

...do 

.(mn 

BATES   OF   WAGES   AND   HOURS   OF  LABOR   IN    AUSTRIAN   WOOLEN   AND 

WORSTED  MILLS. 


formation  regarding  wage  rates  paid  in  different  occupations  in 
I  woolen  and  worsted  establishments,  and  in  wool-dyeing  estab- 


The  information 
Austrian 

lishments,  represents  48  individual  establishments  located  in  15  towns, 
and  also  includes  the  wage  scales  used  by  the  establishments  controlled 
by* two  large  associations  of  manufacturers.  Such  establishments  as 
did  not  make  woolen  or  worsted  cloths,  and  such  as  did  not  dye  wool 
in  one  form  or  another,  have  been  excluded  from  consideration. 

In  the  Austrian  mills  the  payment  of  wages  on  a  time  basis  still 
greatly  predominates  over  payment  on  a  piece-rate  basis.  Of  37  occu- 
pations for  wliich  rates  are  shown  in  the  tables  which  follow,  only  7 
were  paid  for  on  a  piece-rate  basis,  and  even  in  the  7  piece-rate  occupa- 
tions, which  include  mule  spinning,  spooling,  twisting,  reeling,  weaving, 
ftnd  tying-in,  certain  establishments  paid  on  a  time  basis.  Hourly  rates 
and  weekly  rates  have  been  reducea  to  day  rates.  The  reports  from 
the  foUowmg  mills  showed  the  hours  of  labor  per  week,  as  follows: 

Establishments  numbered  24,  25,  26,  ana  27,  in  the  Austrian 
weavers'  wage  scale  table,  run  58 J  hours  per  week;  establishment 
28  runs  60  hours  for  time  workers,  63  for  piece  workers;  29  runs 
56  hours;  32  and  33  run  57  hours;  40  runs  53 1  hours;  41  and  44 
run  55  hours;  while  establishment  number  43  runs  63  hours  per  week. 

There  was  no  uniform  custom  in  distributing  the  weekly  hours  of 
labori  but  in  most  establishments  work  began  at  6  or  6.30  a.  m.  and 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


ended  at  6  p.  m.,  with  from  one-half  an  hour  to  an  hour  and  a  half 
about  noontime.  Some  establishments  allowed  a  quarter-hour 
pause  in  the  forenoon  and  afternoon,  and  counted  in  with  the  regular 
tours  of  labor  the  time  for  paying  off  employees  and  a  half  hour  each 
Saturday  or  the  day  preceding'  a  holiday  for  cleaning  up  the  work- 
rooms. In  practically  all  establishments  certain  hofidays  were 
observed,  for  which  days  the  employees  were  either  paid  a  full-time 
wa^e,  regardless  of  the  amount  of  production,  or  else  were  paid  at 
an  increased  rate  for  each  hour  worked.  Overtime  and  night  work 
for  all  indoor  occupations  were  paid  from  40  to  50  per  cent  higher  in 
many  estabhshments.  One  establishment,  No.  28,  had  a  10-hour 
day  for  time  workers  and  a  10§-hour  day  for  pieceworkers. 

In  Table  51  the  rates  of  pay  per  day  in  occupations  preparatory  to 
spinning  are  shown: 

Table  51. — Showing  rates  of  pay  per  day  for  occupations  preparatory  to  spinning. 


Establishment  or 
group  nnmber. 

Rate  of  pay  per  day. 

•i 

Wool 

sorters, 

male. 

Wool  sorters, 
female. 

Picker -machine 

tenders 

(all  males). 

Card  tenders 
(all  females). 

Card  strippers 
(all  males). 

10... 

fO.28 

$0.45 

$0.43-    .46 

.43-    .45 

.45 

.40 

.45 

.43-    .45 

.45 

.45 

$0. 33-$0. 39 
.33-    .39 
.33-    .39 
.35-    .39 
.35-    .39 
.35-    .39 
.33-    .39 
.35-    .39 
.35-    .39 
.33-    .35 
.33-    .36 
.33-    .39 

$0. 45-$0. 51 

11 

ia27 

12 

.4^    .51 

.47-    .51 

.4&-    .51 

.51 

.47-    .51 

.47 

.48 

.51 

.47 

.43 

.61 

.68 

'" lu" 

13 

14 28 

16 

17 ::::t::::::::; 

IS 

19 

20 :::.. 

21 

.47 
.43-    .51 

23 

25 

26 

.49 

«.53 

.11-    .49 

. 55-  1  .  65 

.  43-  »  .  56 

.31-    .35 

♦.85 

27 

28 1 

31 

Ml-    .61 

.3^    .41 

42 ; 

1 

1 

»  Male  ftnisher  card  tenders. 
«  Bate  paid  for  night  work. 


»  Female  finisher  card  tenders. 
«  Rate  paid  to  male  card  feeders. 


•  Rate  paid  to  blenders. 


Women  and  ^Is  predominated  in  the  occupations  of  wool  sorting 
and  wool  blending.  Practically  all  were  time  workers;  the  few  who 
were  pieceworkers  were  working  under  a  guaranteed  minimum  of 
earnings  about  equal  to  the  usual  time  rate.  The  lowest  rate  paid 
was  27  cents  per  day  and  the  highest  41  cents.  One  estabhshment 
paid  beginners  35  cents  per  day  for  the  first  six  weeks  of  their  employ- 
ment. In  another  establishment  women  wool  blenders  were  paid  6.1 
cents  per  hour  and  young  girls  4.1  cents  per  hour. 

In  13  establishments  picker-machine  tenders  received  from  41  to  51 
cents  per  day;  the  average  rate  was  about  45  cents.  Two  estabhsh- 
ments paid  a  rate  of  53  cents  per  day  for^ight  work.  One  mill  paid 
its  picker-room  foreman  $3.25  per  week  and  in  addition  a  premium 
of  4.1  cents  for  each  100  kilos  (220  pounds)  of  finished  yam  produced. 

In  Austria  card  tending  is  done  almost  exclusively  by  females,  only 
2  out  of  15  estabhshments  showing  any  men  as  card  tenders.  The  pay 
of  the  women  varied  sUghtly  with  the  width  of  the  carding  cyhnder. 
In  no  instance  was  it  lower  than  31  nor  higher  than  39  cents  per 
day.  Usually  within  that  range  each  estabhshment  had  four  groups 
of  card  tenders,  paid  according  to  the  width  of  the  cards.    One  estab- 


836 


BEPOHT  OF  TAEIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDTTIJ5  K. 


BEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD   ON"  SCHEDULE   K. 


837 


lisliment  employing  men  in  tliis  department  paid  tliem  from  55  to  65 
cents  per  day  for  tending  finisluiig  cards  and  paid  women  from  43  to 
55  cents  per  day  for  doing  the  same  kind  of  work.  Card  feeders  who 
were  men  were  paid  35  cents  per  day  and  card  boys  $1.91  per  w^eek, 
or  32  cents  per  day.  Card  stripping  is  done  entirely  by  men,  and  the 
variations  in  rates  of  pay  depend  upon  term  of  service  with  their 
employer  or  upon  efficiency.  Of  the  14  establishments  reporting 
rates  for  card  strippers,  the  highest  rate,  68  cents  per  day,  was  paid 
in  an  establishment  in  Brunn,  and  the  man  receiving  it  was  not  enti- 
tled to  any  increase  of  pay  for  overtime  work  or  work  on  holidays,  aa 
others  were.  The  lowest  rate  reported  was  43  cents  per  day.  The 
average  rate  was  about  47  cents  per  day. 

In  Austria,  as  elsewhere  in  Europe,  the  dyeing  of  stock,  yams,  and 
cloths  is  done  mostly  in  dyeing  and  finisliing  estabhslunents,  although 
some  cloth-producmg  establishments  have  their  own  dyehouse 
departments.  The  rates  of  wages  secured  for  dj^ehouse  labor  were 
for  both  khids  of  establislmients  and  included  (a)  13  cloth-producmg 
establishments  wliich  do  their  own  dyeing,  (h)  a  combination  of  7 
dyeing  establishments,  (c)  a  larger  combination  of  cotton,  silk,  and 
•wool  dyeing  establishments,  of  which  13,  included  here,  dye  wool  or 
woolen  yams  and  cloth,  and  (d)  the  Verband  Ocsten-eicliischer  Seiden- 
firber  (association  of  Austiian  silk  dyers). 

Table  52. — EaUa  ofpa^  per  day  for  work  in  the  dyehouse. 


Establisli- 

mentor 

group 

number. 


10. 

11. 
12. 
13. 
14. 

16. 
17. 
1!». 
20. 
21. 


Hours  of 

labor 
per  week. 


Sex  of 
em- 
ployees. 


Rank  und  expenence  of  dyers  or  kiad  of  work  on  which 

engaged. 


23 

24 


27. 


20. 


18. 


iS| 


44. 


Male . . . 

...do. .. 

...do. . . 

...do 

...do... 

...do... 

...do.. . 

...do... 

...do.. . 

...do... 

...do... 

...do... 

...do... 

...do... 

I... do... 

58i  I.. .do... 
...:.!. ...do... 
I... do 

...do... 

...do.. . 

...do... 

...do... 

...do... 

...do... 

...do... 

Female. 

. .  .do. . . 

Male... 

.  ..do... 

...do... 

Female. 

...do... 

...do... 

Male... 

...do... 

...do... 

...do... 

...do.. . 

Female. 

...do... 


I  Not  specified . 
' do 


do. 


50 


55 


<:0 

do 

.do 

do 

do 

do 

First  man 

Others 

Not  specified 

First  group  (2  men) . . , 

Second  group  (3  men) . 

Third  group  (2  men) . . 


Group  1 

Group  2 

Group  3 

Independent  dyers,  over  23  yeswa  old 

Dyers  changing  from  cotton  or  silk  to  wool  dycinp: . 
.do. 


Skilled  dyers,  during  first  year  after  apprenticeship — 

Skilled  dyers, after  first  year  after  apprentloeship 

Helpers  at  the  dye  vats 

After  1 1  years'  experience  at  one  branch  of  dreinf: 

After  3  years*  experience  at  one  branch  of  dyeing 

Beginners 

After  *  year's  experience 

After  1  year's  experience 

Be8:inneiB 

After  I  year's  experience 

After  I  year's  experience 

Independent  dyers,  Over  21  years  old 

Dyers  changing  from  cotton  or  silk  to  wool  dyeing 

Skilled  dvers,  during  first  vear  after  apprenticeship. . . 
8kilie<i  dvers,  during  second  year  after  apprenticeship. 

Helpers  at  the  dye  vats 

After  1|  years'  experience 

After  3  years'  experience 


Rate  of  pay 
per  day. 


From— 


10.45 
.47 
.47 
.47 


.47 
.47 


.47 


.59 
.49 


».83 


•.75 


To— 


to- 49 
.49 
.49 
.49 
.48 
.49 
.49 
.47 
.49 
.49 
.47 
.47 
.60 
.51 
.45 

•  xfV 

.47 
.43 
.41 
.91 

».81 

«.88 
.78 
.85 
.68 
.41 
.44 
.57 
.61 
.64 
.31 
.34 
.37 
.98 

«.91 
.78 
.91 

«.88 
.41 
.47 


1  During  first  3  months  after  change. 

a  After  Im  3  months  in  new  kind  of  dyeing  establlsluncnU 


»  Younger  men. 

<  Older  and  prefbned  empIoyeoB. 


In  the  13  cloth-producing  estabhshments  wliich  do  their  own  dye- 
ing the  rates  of  pay  for  dyers  and  dyers'  helpers  ranged  from  45  to 
49  cents  per  day.  A  few  estabhshments  paid  a  rate  as  high  as  60 
cents  per  day,  and  one  paid  a  rate  as  low  as  43  cents  per  day,  but 
those  rates  were  the  pay  of  individual  persons  and  no  doubt  were 
determined  by  particular  causes.  These  dyers  and  dyers'  helpers 
were  not  the  chemists  or  color  mixers  whose  knowledge  must  be 
technical,  but  rather  the  manual  workers  at  the  vats  who  combined 
with  their  physical  labor  a  certain  degree  of  skill  in  handUng  and  of 
knowledge  of  just  how  the  dye  is  taking  effect  and  what  subsequent 
treatment  the  dyed  stock  or  yarn,  or  cloth,  must  undergo.  It  is  in 
this  sense  only  that  the  term  ''  dyer"  is  used  throughout  in  connection 
with  the  rates  of  pay. 

In  the  second  group,  comprising  seven  separate  dyeing  estabhsh- 
ments, the  lowest  pav  for  dyers  during  the  first  half  year  of  their 
employment  was  fixed  at  $3.45  per  week,  or  about  57  cents  per  day. 
In  the  second  half  year  of  their  employment  their  lowest  pay  was 
fixed  at  $3.65  per  week,  or  61  cents  per  day,  and  after  one  and  a  half 
years  at  $3.86  per  week,  or  64  cents  per  dfay.  Working  up  through 
the  same  terms  of  employment,  females  began  at  $1.83  per  week,  or 
31  cents  per  day,  and  reached  at  length  a  rate  of  $2.23  per  week,  or 
37  cents  per  day. 

The  third  and  fourth  groups  mentioned  above  were  more  nearly 
ahke  in  the  rates  paid  and  in  their  division  of  the  dyers  and  their 
helpers  into  wage  groups.     Both  groups  of  estabhshments  fixed  $4.67 
per  week,  or  78  cents  per  day,  as  the  lowest  amount  that  might  be 
paid  to  sldlled  dyers  during  the  first  year  after  the  completion  of 
their  apprenticeship,  and  $5.08  and  $5.48  per  week,  or  85  and  91 
cents  ner  day,  respectively,  as  the  lowest  rate  for  them  during  the 
second  year  after  their  apprenticeship  was  completed.     Independent 
dyers  over  21  years  old,  whose  qualifications  as  dyers  and  whose 
actual  employment  as  dyers  were  certified  to  by  the  estabhshment 
employing  them,  received  respectively  in  the  two  groups  of  estab- 
lishments $5.48  per  week,  or  91  cents  per  day,  and  $5.89  per  week,  or 
98  cents  per  day,  as  a  lowest  wage  rate.     To  such  dvers  as  had 
changed  from  cotton  dyeing  to  silk  dyeing,  or  from  silk  or  cotton 
dyeing  to  wool  dyeing,  these  two  groups  of  estabhshments  paid 
between  $4.87  per  week,  or  81  cents  per  day,  and  $5.48  per  week,  or 
91  cents  per  day  and  made  the  increase  in  rate  occur  at  the  end  of 
three  months'  work  in  the  new  kind  of  dyeing.     Both  groups  dis- 
tinguished the  dyers  from  the  helpers  at  the  dye  vats,  and  paid  the 
latter  from  68  to  91  cents  per  day.     The  number  of  men  who  might 
be  employed  as  dye-vat  helpers  was  restricted  in  these  two  groups  of 
establishments  to  from  20  to  25  per  cent  of  the  number  of  experienced 
dyers,  and  any  number  of  dye-vat  helpers  in  excess  of  that  percentage 
had  to  be  paid  the  lowest  rate  paid  to  experienced  dyers.     Females 
after  one  and  one-half  years'  experience  were  paid  41  cents  per  day 
in  both  groups,  and  after  three  years  they  were  paid  from  44  to  47 
cents  per  day. 

In  the  following  table  (Table  53)  the  time  and  piece  rates  paid  in 
aeven  occupations  in  the  yarn  departments  of  certain  mills  are  shown. 

32OS0°— H.  Doc.  342,  62-2,  vol  2 15 


838 


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Labonitory 

BEPOBT  OF   TABIFF  BOABD   ON  SCHEDULE  K.   '"'"■^^^     ^'<^4j 

C^iunnbia  University 

Mule  spinners  were  paid  usually  per  100  kilograms,  oi<^f?^f  ^Wh6 
pounds  produced,  with  an  increase  in  the  rate  with  the  smaller  yarns . 
One  establishment  paid  mule  spmners  tending  480  spindles  $1.19  per 
100  kilograms  (220  pounds)  for  spinning  number  5i  (that  is,  yarn 
which  requires  5,500  meters,  or  6,014.8  yards,  to  weigh  1  kilogram,  or 
2.2046  pounds),  and  paid  other  spinners  tending  the  same  number  of 
spindles  $1.44  for  spinning  number  10  yarn,  or  yam  requiring  10,000 
meters,  or  10,936  yards  to  weigh  1  kilogram.  Wlien  the  yarn  spun 
was  numbered  higher  than  number  10,  the  spinner  was  paid  13  cents 
per  100  hanks  of  1,000  meters,  or  1,093.6  yards,  each.  This  rate, 
when  reduced  to  the  kilogram  basis,  was  $1.30  per  220  pounds,  or  14 
cents  less  than  was  paid  for  numbers  8f  to  10. 

In  another  establishment  the  rates  per  220  pounds  were  as  follows: 


Rate  per 

220 
pounds. 

Yarn  Nos.  (metric  or  international  svstem): 

lto54 '. .  .. 

5}to7 

7Jto8 

$1.10 
1.26 
1  30 

Slto8| 

1.36 

9  to  10 

1  42 

A  third  establishment  paid  spinners  $3.49  per  week,  or  58  cents  per 
day;  and  a  fourth  paid  them  15  cents  per  100  hanks  of  1,093.6  yards 
each,  or  $1.50  per  220  pounds  on  yarns  less  than  No.  10.  In  these 
four  establishments  all  mule  spinners  were  males.  Two  of  these 
establishments  paid  reelers,  all  or  whom  were  females,  as  follows: 

FIRST  ESTABLISHMENT  (NO.  25). 


Yarn  Nos.  (metric  or  international  STstem): 

1  to5i '. 

,     5|to7 

7to8 

StolO 

Over  10 

Twist  yarns 

Yarns  for  backing 


Wage 
rate  per 

220 
pounds. 


$0.53 

.59 

.63 

.67 

1.077 

1.073 

1.041 


SECOND   ESTABLISHMliNT  (NO.  2(5). 


Yam  Nos.  (metric  or  international  system) 

^i 

7 

H 

&|to9 

9tol0 

Over  10 


$0.57 
.61 
.65 
.70 
.71 

1.073 


1  Per  100  hanks. 


842 


REPOBT  OF   TAEIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


The  yam  boys  were  paid  a  piece  rate,  which  was  not  reported,  but 
were  guaranteed  earnings  of  not  less  than  34  cents  per  day.  Yarn 
packers  received  from  45  to  49  cents  per  day. 

Tliree  estabhshments  paid  spoolers  of  fdling  yam  between  35  and 
44  cents  per  day.  Six  others  paid  the  filhng-yam  spoolers  from  10 
to  1 7  per  cent  of  the  pay  on  the  loom  using  the  yarn  spooled.  In  four 
other  establishments  the  spoolers  of  filUng  yam  were  paid  piece  rates 
on  a  basis  of  1  kilogram,  and  here  the  rates,  which  are  reduced  in 
Table  53  to  a  100-kilo,  or  220-pound  basis  for  greater  convenience 
of  comparison  with  other  occupations,  ranged  from  $1.02  for  220 
pounds  of  yarn  under  No.  5  to  $3.35  per  220  pounds  for  No.  25  yam. 
Thus  the  rates  increased  as  the  yarn  six>oIed  became  finer.  The 
average  of  the  rates  paid  was  $1.90  per  100  kilos.  Female  hand 
spoolers  were  paid  37  cents  per  day  and  machine  spoolers  44  cents 
per  day. 

Only  one  establishment  paid  its  warp-yam  spoolers  on  a  time  basis, 
their  rate  being  $1.99  per  week,  or  33  cents  per  day  (all  males).  Six 
paid  on  a  basis  of  100  kilo  (220  pountls),  their  rates  ranging  from  51 
cents  for  Nos.  3  to  5  yam  up  to  $1.22  for  No.  16  yam. 

All  rates  reported  for  twisting  were  for  males.  '  For  this  work  two 
estabhshments  paid  35  cents  and  49  cents  per  day,  respectively. 
Three  estabhshments,  which  paid  on  a  piece-rate  basis,  whicn  was  not 
reported,  reported  day  rates  ranging  from  41  to  51  cents,  below  which 
the  piece-rate  earnings  were  not  allowed  to  fall.  Tlie  prevailing  day 
rate  for  twisting  was  therefore  about  45.4  cents.  The  lowest  piece 
rate  reported  was  $1.02  per  220  pounds  for  t\^isting  a  5 J  and  a  30 
"  Strahn ' '  yarn  together,  and  the  highest  rate  was  $4.67  per  220  pounds 
for  twisting  a  16  and  a  64  yam  together.  For  tmsting  two  10  carded- 
wool  yams  together  another  establishment  paid  $1.22  per  220  pounds, 
and  paid  $2.84  per  220  pounds  for  tmsting  two  22  carded-wool  yarns 
together.  Other  rates  m  other  establishments  f oi  other  sizes  of  yam 
within  the  limits  indicated  were  within  tliese  ranges  in  rate. 

In  so  far  as  the  scales  show  rates  for  the  general  labor  and  indoor 
occupations  connected  with  a  woolen  or  worsted  mill,  these  rates  liave 
been  tabulated  below: 

Table  54. — Rates  of  pay  in  miscellaneous  occupations. 


Estab- 
lishment 
No. 

Occupation. 

Rate  of 

pa/ per 

day. 

24 

28 

Stationarj'  fireman 

do 

SO.  68 

.64 
.45 
.51 

.57 

.45 
.48 
.16 
.37 
.57 

Blacksmith 

Carpenter 

M^ason 

Belt  maker 

Teamster 

Nijfht  watchman 

Day  lalxirer 

27 

Gear  tender 

In  practically  all  indoor  occupations  the  worker  received  an  increase 
of  from  25  to  50  per  cent  in  liis  rate  when  he  worked  overtime,  at 
nights,  or  on  holiclays. 


PART  IV -SECTION  1. 


READY-MADE  CLOTHING  AND  WEARING 

APPAREL. 


843 


tj 


EEADY-MADE  CLOTHING. 

Any  inquiry  into  the  subject  of  wool  and  its  products  would  be 
incomplete  without  a  thorough  consideration  of  the  manufacture  of 
men's  and  women's  garments.  To  the  producers  of  cloth  this  indus- 
try is  of  primary  importance,  inasmuch  as  it  absorbs  the  greater  part 
of  their  product.  The  clothing  manufacturer  is  a  wholesale  buyer 
of  the  products  of  the  mill,  and  the  greatest  part  of  the  cloth  pro- 
duced by  the  mill  in  men's  goods  and  a  very  great  part,  if  not  the 
greatest,  in  women's  cloths  reaches  the  consumer  only  through  the 
medium  of  the  manufacturers  of  factory-made  garments. 

How  true  this  i^of  the  men's  clothing  industry  is  shown  by  the  fact 
that  as  far  back  as  1900  the  output  of  men's  clothing  as  a  factory, 
product  was  valued  at  twice  the  custom  product.  To  the  great  body 
of  consumers  the  factory  product  is  of  even  more  significance  than  the 
above  ratio'might  indicate,  since  the  value  of  the  custom-made  prod- 
uct is  the  result  of  relatively  high  prices  per  garment  as  compared 
with  factor3'-made  clotliing. 

It  is  more  ditlicult  to  show  by  the  figures  the  relative  importance  of 
the  factory  product  in  w^omen's  clothing  as  compared  with  the  output 
of  the  ladies  custom  tailor,  the  dressmaker,  and  the  home.  But  every 
successive  census  has  revealed  a  remarkable  growth  in  the  women's 
clothing  industry,  indicating  that  in  a  great  measure  the  factory 
industry  is  coming  to  hold  for  women's  wear  the  place  it  now  holds  for 
men. 

According  to  the  United  States  Census  figures  for  1905,  men's 
clothing  ranked  seventh  in  the  gross  value  of  products  and  women's 
clothing  fifteenth.  The  combined  output  of  the  two  industries, 
$603,500,000,  ranks  fifth;  the  value  of  their  products  was  exceeded 
in  only  four  other  industries,  those  concerned  with  the  products 
of  rneat,  and  flour,  the  machine  shops  and  foundries,  and  the  steel 
and  iron  works.  From  the  point  of  view  of  waires  paid  out,  men's 
and  women's  clothing  ranked  respectively  eighth  and  tenth.  The 
combined  pay  rolls  of  the  two  industries  in  1905  was  approximately 
$110,000,000,  to  which  should  be  added  most  of  the  $41,000,000 
paid  out  for  contract  work.  The  amount  expended  for  wages  in  the 
two  garment  industries  combined  is  exceeded  in  only  four  other 
industries. 

Since  1905  there  has  been  a  large  growth,  the  product  of  men's 
clothing  having  increased  more  than  one-third  and  that  of  women's 
clothing  more   than  one-half.     The  combined   output  of  the   two 

845 


/ 


.1 


I 


846 


REPOET  OF  TARIFF  BOAR0  OK   SCHEDULE   K. 


industries,  according  to  tlie  last  census,  exceeded  $870,000,000. 
details  are  shown  in  the  following  table: 

Table  1. — Chlhingy  men*g. 


The 


Items. 


United 
States. 


Number  of  establishments. 

Persons  engaged  in  manu- 
factures   

I*roprietor3  and  ftrm 

memliers 

Salariod  employees — 

Wage  earners  (average 

number) 

Capital 

Expenses 

Bervicres 

Salaries 

Wages 

Materials 

Miscellaneous 

Value  of  products 


6,584 

218,255 

7,375 
19,  W7 

191,183 
1230.703,112 

438.488,649 

112, 727,  aw 
23.082.137 
89,644,921 

252,522.567 
73,2.39,024 

485,677,493 


New  York 
City. 


2,350 

70,  §37 

3.368 
o,  994 

61,275 

fT8,372.785 

176,761,862 

42,707.495 

7,314,806 

35,392,629 

99,428,640 

34.625,727 

195,555,371 


Chicago. 

Baltimore. 

Philadel- 
phia. 

659 

310 

414 

37,537 

16,974 

9,480 

813 

430 

m 

3,835 

1,454 

655 

32,890 

15,090 

8,233 

|35,753,9<>3 

115,624,572 

111,396.544 

7.5.278,065 

26,817,911 

19,267,471 

19,624,413 

7,925,505 

6,092,802 

4,195,296 

1,500,607 

815.431 

15,429,117 

6,334,808 

4,277,371 

42,033.777 

15.818,020 

10.819.420 

13,619,875 

3,074,386 

3,355,249 

83,735,584 

29,236,539 

21,852,261 

Rochester. 


19fl 

8,559 

341 
586 

7,732 

flO.808,113 

17,365,681 

4,970.713 
1,162.161 

8,681,561 

3,703,307 

18,878,508 


Table  2. — Clothing,  womcn^t* 


I'tems. 


United 
States. 


Number  of  estabEshmontj? 

Persons  enpajied  in  manufactures 

Proprif'tors  and  firm  members 

Salaried  employees 

Wage  earners  (average  number). . . 

Capital 

Expenses 

Services 

Salaries 

Wages 

Materials. 

Miscellaneous 

Value  of  products 


4.558 

179,021 

6,482 

18,796 

1.53,743 

$129,301,057 

341.489,256 

98.986,029 

20.417,768 

78.568,261 

208,788,226 

33,715,001 

384,751,649 


New  York 

Philadel- 

City. 

pliia. 

2.996 

351 

110.567 

15,627, 
576 

4,332 

11,977 

1,651 

94,258 

13,500 

180.761.926 

110,590,279 

236,090.095 

26, 21)3.811 

66,616,938 

8.104.608 

13,099,250 

1.5.30,7.33 

53.517,688 

6,573,875 

144.845,027 

16,6«)5.940 

24,628,i:)0 

1,523,362 

266,477,381 

30,132,842 

Cldcago.    I  Cleveland. 


204 

6,666 

2.54 

797 

5,615 

$5,193,048 

14,1.36,673 

3,911.981 

916,022 

8,666,249 

1,666, 44:^ 

15,676,925 


96 

6,326 

100 

708 

5,418 

$4,940,583 

12,837.165 

4.029,4.37 

1,126,263 

2,903,174 

6,496.487 

1,311,241 

12,788,775 


In  considering  tliese  census  data,  it  should  be  borne  in  mind  that 
under  men^s  clotliing  is  included  cliildren^s  clothing  and  some  wearing 
apparel  other  than  the  regular  men's  outer  garments.  Similarly 
women's  clotliing  includes  more  than  the  woofcn  skirts,  suits,  and 
coats.  Taken  as  a  whole,  however,  garments  not  made  of  woolen 
cloth  are  not  of  gi-eat  significance  in  the  statistics  for  men's  clothing. 
For  women's  clotliing  they  are  far  more  important,  but  nevertheless 
it  is  the  woolen  garments  that  are  of  prime  moment  for  this  industry 
as  well  as  for  the  men's  clothing  traae. 

In  view  of  the  greater  miportance  of  Schedule  K  for  men's  clothing, 
it  was  upon  iMs  that  the  present  investigation  laid  particular  stress. 
Much  of  what  applies  to  the  factory  product  is  equally  applicable  also 
to  the  custom  trade.  In  its  upper  range  of  prices  the  factory  product 
competes  actively  with  custom-made  clothes,  and  the  metiiods  of 
makm^  up  garments  in  some  branches  of  the  custom  trade  are  not 
very  different  from  those  emploved  in  the  making  of  the  factory 
product. 

CILIRACTERISTIC8  OF  THE   CLOTHING   INDUSTRY. 

For  a  full  understanding  of  the  work  done  and  the  figures  that 
follow,  it  is  necessary  to  state  here  some  of  the  peculiarities,  features, 
and  conditions  of  the  garment  trades. 


< 


.*, 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


84t 


A  striking  characteristic  of  tliis  industry  is  its  urban  concentration^ 
It  is  restricted  to  the  large  cities,  and  among  the  cities  to  a  com- 
paratively few.  Not  requiring  extensive  plants,  it  enjoys  in  the 
large  cities  the  advantages  of  an  abundant  labor  supply  and  special 
facihties  which  they  afford  for  marketing  the  product.  These  more 
than  offset  the  disadvantage  of  high  city  rents.  Characteristic  of 
this  urban  congestion  of  the  industry  is  the  fact  that  in  1910 
New  York  alone  produced  one-half  of  the  output  of  the  com- 
bined men's  and  women's  clotliing  industries.  Its  share  of  the 
men's  trade  is  one-third  of  that  for  the  country  as  a  whole.  Chicago, 
Baltimore,  Philadelphia,  and  Kochester  rank  after  New  York  in  the 
order  named.  The  five  cities  combined  produced  in  1910  over 
70  per  cent  of  the  total  product.  The  other  important  centers 
are  Cincinnati,  Boston,  and  St.  Louis.  Here  are  the  census  figures 
for  the  five  leading  centers : 

Table  3. — Men^s  clothing. 

CONCENTRATION  OF  CLOTmNG  INDUSTRY-VALUE  OF  PRODUCT  IN  THE  UNITED 
STATES  AND  IN  THE  FIVE  LEADING  CITIES,  1905  AND  1910. 


Locality. 


t  United  States 

New  York 

Chicago 

Baltimore 

Philadelphia 

Rochester 

Total  for  citie-s  specified 


Amount. 


1905 


$355,796,571 


137,104,900 
63,230,4.36 
19,565,474 
18,077,809 
14,948,703 


242,927,322 


1910 


$485,677,493 


195,555,371 
83,735,584 
29,236,539 
21,8.')2,261 
18,878,508 


Per  cent. 


1905 


1910 


100.0 


100.0 


38.5 

15.0 

5.5 

5.1 

4.2 


40.3 

17.3 

6.0 

4.5 

3.9 


349,258,263         68.3 


71.9 


In  view  of  the  Idgh  degree  of  concentration  of  the  industry  in  the 
five  cities  named,  and  the  fact  that  all  grades  of  clothing  are  repre- 
sented in  their  product,  it  was  obviously  sufficient  to  restrict  the 
present  investigation  to  these  leading  centers. 

The  cities  named  have  to  a  considerable  extent  specialized  in  the 
character  of  their  product.  Chicago  and  Kochester  are  noted  as 
centers  for  the  high  grades  of  clothing;  New  York,  Pliiladelpliia,  and 
Baltimore  as  centers  for  the  medium  and  cheaper  grades.  This 
statement  is  true  in  a  general  way,  but  in  every  city  the  product 
covers  a  large  range  in  prices.  Tims,  though  the  product  of  New 
York  is  predominantly  cneap  and  medium,  a  very  large  amount  of 
high-grade  clothing  is  there  manufactured. 

One  phase  of  the  industry  is  largely  centered  in  Chicago — the 
"special  order/'  or  wholesale  tailoring  industry.  Tliis  consists  in 
making  up  garments  for  individual  customers,  garments  sold  through 
agencies  or  by  ^'mail  order." 

Characteristic  of  the  industry  is  the  fact  that  it  involves  compara^ 
tively  little  investment  in  the  form  of  plant  or  machinery.  In  com- 
parison with  the  value  of  the  output  and  the  number  of  persons 
employed,  a  clotliing  establishment  occupies  but  httle^  space.  This 
is  one  factor  that  makes  possible  urban  location.  The  investment  of 
a  clothing  firm  is  in  stock  of  cloth  and  trimmings  on  hand,  and  in 
accounts  receivable,  or  the  stock  sold  but  not  paid  for.  The  ma- 
chinery used  absorbs  but  little  of  the  investment — in  one  notable 


Orko 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


instance  of  a  larg©  establishment  conducting  its  own  shops,  the  value 
of  the  macliinery  was  set  down  at  about  6  per  cent  of  the  net  assets. 
The  buildings  occupied  are  usually  rented.  Manufacturing,  or  more 
particularly  the  maidng  up  of  the  garments,  is  in  the  great  majority  of 
the  establishments  done  in  whole  or  in  part  through  contractors. 
This  circumstance  makes  the  question  of  depreciation  on  plants  one 
of  no  significance  for  manufacturing  costs.  Even  where  liberal 
allowance  is  entered  for  depreciation,  the  effect  on  the  total  cost  is 
practically  neghgible. 

Both  relativelv  and  absolutely,  the  capital  required  is  small  as 
compared  with  the  volume  of  busmess  done.  As  a  result  the  clothing 
industry  is  characterized  by  intensely  competitive  conditions.  The 
number  of  establishments  Is  very  great,  but  the  number  doing  a 
volume  of  business  of  $1,000,000  or  more  is  comparatively  small. 
In  the  main  tlie  larger  houses  are  found  engaged  in  the  manufacture 
of  higher  grades  of  clothing.  The  naultiplicity  of  small  houses, 
and  the  dij3iculty  of  securing  from  inadequate  records  the  data 
required  for  the  mvestigation  has  made  it  necessary  to  secure  the 
information  to  a  great  extent  from  the  larger  manufacturers.  As 
those  are  usually  the  most  successful  houses,  it  is  only  fair  to  say 
that  the  resulting  information  may  perhaps  be  somewhat  more 
favorable  as  regards  margins  for  profits  than  the  results  would  show 
if  complete  data  were  obtained  for  the  entire  industry. 

Owing  to  the  relatively  small  investment  reauired,  the  industry 
bas  remained  largely  in  the  hands  of  individual  and  partnerships. 
Where  corporations  have  been  formed,  they  are  in  most  instances 
essentially  the  same  as  firms,  the  stockholders  being  actively  engaged 
in  the  business.  Proprietors  or  officers  are  usually  found  in  the  more 
important  supervisory  positions.  Often  they  are  responsible  for  a 
large  part  of  the  sales.  In  the  case  of  partnersliips,  no  salaries  are 
as  a  rule  entered  on  the  books;  in  the  case  of  corporations,  salaries 
are  usually  a  means  of  dividing  profits  and  have  no  necessary  relation 
to  the  work  of  the  recipient  or  the  volume  of  business.  This  intro- 
duces difficulties  in  trymg  to  distinguish  between  costs  and  profits, 
the  one  being  overstated  m  the  case  of  corporations,  the  other  in  the 
case  of  firms. 

In  the  method  of  carrying  on  the  manufacturing  processes,  the  cloth- 
ing industry  is  characterized  by  extensive  use  of  tne  contract  system. 
Particularly  in  New  York,  the  typical  wholesale  clothier  can  hardly 
be  considered  a  manufacturer.  He  purchases  the  cloth  and  trimmings. 
The  examining  and  sponging  are  attended  to  for  him  by  an  independent 
concern  at  a  fixed  pnce  per  yard.  The  material  is  cut  up  on  his  prem- 
ises, but  the  actual  work  or  making  up  the  garment  is  let  out  to  con- 
tractors at  a  fixed  price.  The  contractor  receives  the  cut-up  material 
and  returns  the  completed  garment.  The  contractor  rents  his  own 
factory  and  employs  his  own  help.  The  contract  system  is  most 
largely  used  in  New  York,  but  it  exists  in  every  ciotliing  center. 
Firms  engaged  in  the  production  of  higher  grades  of  garments  usually 
manufacture  most  of  their  product  in  their  own  shops.  Few  of  the  firms 
visited  in  this  investigation,  however,  made  up  all  of  their  output  in  their 
own  establishments.  While  the  contract  system  is  used  most  exten- 
sivelv  in  the  production  of  the  cheaper  giades  of  clothing,  it  is  em- 
ployed  in  the  manufacture  of  all  g{-ad(5  of  garmentriJnder  the 
circumstances,  it  is  apparent  how  difficult  is  the  problem  of  securing 


BEPORT  OF  TABIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


849 


. 


if  f 


u 


accurately  the  entire  and  detailed  labor  cost  involved  in  the  manu- 
facture oi  clothing  and  how  in  some  cases  the  only  figures  available 
give  the  total  expense  connected  with  the  conversion  of  the  material 
mto  the  finished  product. 

The  factory  output  which  goes  under  the  general  term  "men's 
clothing"  covers  so  wide  a  range  of  product,  that  it  is  difficult  to 
standardize  or  measure  in  terms  of  any  units.  Most  houses  produce 
suits  and  overcoats.  Some  speciahze  m  overcoats  or  in  pants.  Oth- 
ers specialize  in  youths'  or  in  boys'  clothing,  and  some  manufacture 
raincoats,  fancy  vests,  and  bathrobes  in  addition  to  regular  clothing. 

Not  only  is  there  a  variety  in  the  products^  but  under  suits  and  over- 
coats there  are  found  garments  varying  widely  in  price.  Generally 
houses  are  classified  according  to  theirproduction  under  such  headings 
as  cheap,  medium,  and  high  grade.  'The  first  class  would  include  gar- 
ments sold  at  wholesale  for  less  than  $8 ;  the  second  would  include  gar- 
ments sold  for  as  much  as  $12  or  $13.  High  grade  would  sell  for  above 
these  figures.  Each  of  these  groups  comprises  a  variety  of  prices  for 
the  same  type  of  garments.  For  example,  a  house  producing  largely 
cheap  garments — suits  selling  for  less  than  $8  wholesale — may  also  sell 
garments  for  as  much  as  $10  or  $12.  There  are  no  definite  lines  of 
demarcation, 

^loreover,  garments  sold  at  the  same  price  vary  widely  in  the  cost 
of  the  cloth  used  or  trimmings,  and  in  the  character  of  the  workman- 
ship and  in  the  style.  Different  combinations  of  cloth,  linings,  and 
labor  are  made  according  to  the  taste  and  poUcy  of  the  manufacturer, 
st3'le,  and  season.  For  purposes  of  comparison  emphasis  has  in  this 
investigation  been  laid  on  the  regular  sack  suit. 

The  manufacturers'  cost  in  the  ciotliing  industry  may  be  arranged 
under  the  following  heads  in  the  order  of  their  importance:  (1)  Cloth, 
(2)  manufacturing  or  making  up  of  the  garment,  (3)  trimming,  (4) 
selling  expenses,  (5)  general  expenses.  The  largest  item,  except  to  a 
small  group  of  manufacturers  of  very  high  grade  clothing,  is  the  cloth 
cost.  This  accounts  for  approximately  two-thirds  of  the  material 
used,  trimmings  being  the  general  head  for  their  other  materials. 
These  are  analyzed  elsewhere. 

The  manufacturing  expense  includes  the  expense  of  the  cutting 
room  and  of  the  factory.  Where  there  is  no  factory,  the  wholesale 
clothiers'  problems  are  much  simplified  by  the  employment  of  con- 
tractors. Wliere  there  is  a  factory,  the  overhead  expense  for  super- 
vision, technical  and  clerical,  and  for  rent  and  general  factory  expense, 
forms  a  very  large  addition  to  the  cost  in  wages  of  employees  who 
work  on  the  garments. 

Selling  expense  constitutes  a  large  element  in  the  wholesalers'  cost. 
These  take  the  form  of  the  expense  of  salesmen  in  commissions, 
salaries,  and  traveling  expenses,  and  of  advertising.  The  latter 
is  dependent  on  the  policy  of  the  house,  some  houses  reporting  a  very 
high  cost  of  advertising,  and  others  spending  practically  nothing. 
In  all  houses,  however,  selling  is  largely  done  through  salesmen. 
Commissions  range  from  5  to  7  per  cent.  It  is  only  where  the  partners 
are  themselves  salesmen,  that  the  cost  of  selling  is  reduced  to  a  low 
figure.  One  reason  for  the  high  cost  of  selling  is  the  fact  that  the 
wholesale  clothier  deals  directly  with  the  retailer,  jobbing  houses 
being  but  little  used.  The  general  expenses  are  in  no  way  peculiar 
to  the  industry,  and  require  no  particular  comment. 


850 


EBPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULB- K. 


The  clothing  industry,  as  at  present  conducted,  is  but  little  con- 
cerned with  foreign  trade.  The  cloths  used  are  ahnost  entirely  of 
domestic  make.  Most  houses  reported  using  exclusively  American 
cloths.  Only  those  engaged  in  the  production  of  high  grade  clotliing 
reported  using  foreign  cloths,  and  tnese  estimated  their  purchases  m 
foreign  cloth  at  no  more  than  3  or  4  per  cent.  As  compared  with  the 
domestic  output  of  the  industry,  mi(>orts  of  wearing  apparel  are 
n^ligible,  and  the  same  may  also  be  said  of  the  exports  of  American 
dotiuug. 

HOW   CJLOTHIKO  18  MADE. 

Next  comes  the  consideration  of  the  production  of  men's  clothing 
and  the  detailed  processes  that  enter  into  it.  So  far  as  possible,  the 
steps  taken  in  the  process  of  manufacture  are  here  followed  in  the 
order  in  which  they  occur.  The  cloth,  and  the  trimmings  to  a  less 
degree,  are  purchased  from  the  mills,*  a  small  proportion  is  bought 
through  a^nts  or  jobbing  houses.  In  New  York,  Baltimore,  and 
Philadelphia  there  seems  to  be  no  freight  chai^;  in  Chicago  the  freight 
on  material  amounts  to  about  one-half  of  1  per  cent  of  the  material 
cost.     In  Rochester  the  cost  of  freight  is  somewhat  less. 

Cloth  received  is  examined  and  sponged.  This  is  done  directly  by 
the  manufacturer  in  the  large  estabhshments  where  the  wholesale 
clothier  has  his  own  shops.  In  the  smaller  establishments  cloths  are 
sent  to  sponging  houses  for  examination  and  for  shrinking.  This 
work  is  done  at  so  much  per  yard,  the  usual  charge  being  1  cent. 
Cloth  found  imperfect  is  returned  and  such  returns  form  a  considerable 
per  cent  of  the  total  purchases. 

In  the  process  of  sponging  there  is  a  shrinkage,  varying  with  the 
character  of  the  material  and  the  process  employed.  Some  houses 
consider  the  shrinkage  as  negligible,  others  ^gure  it  at  as  much  as  3.5 
per  cent.  The  cost  of  sponging  and  examining  is  figured  as  low  as 
2  cents  and  as  high  as  10  cents  per  suit.  In  no  case,  however,  is  it 
a  very  serious  item  of  cost. 

With  the  material  prepared,  the  next  step  takes  place  in  the  cut- 
ting and  trimming  departments  of  the  manufacturer.  All  manu- 
facturers cut  their  cloth  on  their  own  premises^  and  arrange  the  cloth 
and  the  appmpriato  trimmings  in  bundles  to  bo  sent  to  the  factory 
of  the  establisnment  or  to  the  contractor  for  making. 

Of  the  essential  materials  that  enter  into  the  garment,  most 
important  by  far  is  the  cloth.  In  the  ordinary  sack  suit  there  is  used 
between  3i  and  3|  yards  of  cloth,  the  cloth  being  54  to  56  inches  ^vide. 
The  amount  used  varies  according  to  the  pattern  and  according  to 
style.  The  usual  yardage  is  3}  yards,  of^ which  approximately  If 
goes  into  the  coat,  1 J  into  the  pants,  and  about  two-fiftlis  into  the 
vest.  The  short  spring  and  fall  overcoats  take  2}  to  2|  yards;  a 
long  overcoat  is  calculated  at  2 J  to  3  yards.  Subsequent  analysis 
willshow  the  importance  of  the  cloth  cost  in  the  total  cost  of  the  gar- 
ment. It  is  sufficient  to  say  here  that  the  cost  of  cloth  is  on  the 
whole  the  largest  single  item  in  the  manufacturers'  cost.  It  is  only 
when  high-grade  clothing  is  reached  that  this  item  of  cost  is  exceeded 
by  the  manufacturing  expense. 

The  bulk  of  the  clotlis  used  in  ready-made  clothing  sell  net  at 
between  65  cents  and  about  $1.50.  Both  lower  and  tigher  priced 
cloths  are  used.  Details  of  the  relation  of  the  cost  of  cloth  to  the 
price  of  the  garment  are  given  in  exact  figures  in  a  later  table. 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


851 


i 


i 


0 


Besides  cloth  there  enters  into  the  production  of  clothing  a  great 
variety  of  material — woolen,  cotton,  and  linen.  An  analysis  of  a  coat 
made  by  a  New  York  firm  to  seU  at  $10.80  net  and  for  winch  the 
consumer  pays  between  $15  and  $20  shows  that  under  the  head  of 
trimmings  Detween  20  and  25  items  enter  into  the  manufacture  of 
the  coat,  15  mto  a  pair  of  pants,  and  12  in  a  vest.  Eliminating  such 
items  as  are  the  same  in  each  garment,  there  are  included  in  the  trim- 
mings of  a  popular  priced  suit,  about  40  items,  different  either  in  kind 
or  in  price.  Of  these  only  a  few  are  significant  from  the  point  of  view 
of  cost  of  the  finished  product. 

The  largest  of  these  items  is  linings.  Under  this  head  the  most 
important  are  the  linings  Used  for  the  inside  of  a  coat  (exclusive  of  the 
sleeves)  and  for  the  back  of  the  vest.  In  most  of  the  clothing,  partic- 
ularly in  the  medium  and  high  grade  suits,  this  lining  is  woolen,  serge, 
alpaca,  or  mohair.  From  2  to  2  J  yards  are  used,  about  one-half  a 
yard  being  used  for  the  vest,  the  rest  for  the  coat.  Li  the  moro 
popular  priced  overcoats  a  woolen  lining  is  used,  about  2  J  yards 
bemg  required.  The  range  of  prices  for  such  linings  is  from  30 
cents  to  50  cents  per  yard,  some  running  as  high  as  75  cents.  Thus 
in  a  suit  selling  for  $1 1.66  net,  a  house  domg  an  extensive  business  put 
in  a  body  lining  costing  75  cents.  Another  house  puts  in  a  suit  selfing 
for  $10.80  net  a  lining  costing  65  cents.  This  linmg  is  an  important 
item  in  determining  the  cost  of  woolens  entering  into  the  garment, 
and  may  be  estimated  at  between  5  and  6  per  cent  of  the  total  cost  of 
the  garment.  To  considerable  extent  sucn  linings  are  imported.  In 
cheaper  garments  woolen  linings  compete  with  cotton  hnings. 

The  omy  other  woolen  material  usea  is  the  woolen  flannel  forming 
the  under  collar.    This  costs  less  than  5  cents  in  a  popular  priced  suit. 

The  other  linings  are  of  cotton  and  are  used  for  the  sleeves,  the 
inside  of  the  vest,  and  the  pants.  The  other  materials  employed  are 
for  interlinings,  except  the  buttons,  silk,  and  thread.  Most  important 
here  is  the  pad  of  haircloth  and  canvas.  In  better  grade  garments, 
linen  canvas  is  used,  in  cheaper  grades  cotton.  The  remaining  inter- 
lining materials  are  pocketing,  silesia,  canvas,  wigan,  tape,  etc.  As 
none  of  these  items  are  at  all  affected  by  Schedule  K,  it  is  not  neces- 
sary to  go  into  details. 

The  trimmings  rank  third  in  the  manufacturer's  cost  and  vary  with 
the  price  of  the  garment  and  the  policy  of  the  manufacturer,  some 
houses  emphasizing  the  cloth,  others  the  trimmings.  The  same  kind 
of  trimmings  is  likely  to  be  used  in  suits  varying  m  price  within  con- 
siderable limits. 

All  raanufacturers  visited  in  this  inquu-y  cut  the  material  and  lining 
on  their  premises.  The  cutting  cost  varies.  In  cheap  and  medium 
priced  clothing,  the  cutting  is  done  by  electrical  knives,  operating  on 
a  number  of  layers  of  material.  In  higher  priced  garments  the  cut- 
ting is  done  by  shears,  only  one  or  two  layers  of  cloth  being  cut  at  one 
time.  The  cost  of  cutting  varies  from  as  little  as  8  cents  to  as 
much  as  75  cents  or  $1  per  suit.  This  includes  the  trimming — that  is, 
the  cutting  and  arranging  of  the  trimmings  that  go  with  the  particular 
suit. 

From  the  cutting  room,  the  material  arranged  in  lots  and  bundles 
is  sent  to  the  factory  of  the  establishment  or  to  its  contractors. 
Coats,  pants,  and  vests  are  made  in  shops  specializing  in  the  produc- 
tion of  but  one  class  of  garments.    Overcoats  are,  however,  frequently 


852 


BEPOKT  OP  TAKIFF  BOAKD  ON  ^CHEDUO!  K. 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


853 


made  iip  in  the  same  shops  as  coats.  The  work  is  done  under  varying 
conditions  with  wide  differences  in  the  subdivisions  of  the  manufac- 
turing processes  and  in  the  character  of  the  workmanship  required. 
The  details  are  elaborately  described  in  the  report  of  the  Bureau  of 
Labor  on  Men's  Clothing. 

Owing  to  the  large  extent  to  which  clothing  is  made  up  under  the 
contract  system  it  is  often  impossible  to  determine  the  exact  labor 
cost  from*^  the  records  of  the  manufacturers.  The  contract  price 
includes  overhead  manufacturing  expenses  and  the  contractor's 
profit.  Both  in  the  manufacturer's  shop  and  where  the  work  is 
done  under  contract  the  labor  cost  varies,  in  general  with  the  price 
of  the  garment.  Tlie  greatest  variation  is,  howeier,  in  the  cost  of 
the  coat.  Even  here  tlie  same  price  per  coat  is  paid  on  suits  differing 
in  price.  Under  the  contract  system  the  manufacturing  cost  is  con- 
trolled by  assiOTiing  dilTerent  grades  of  garments  to  different  con- 
tractors. Establishments  having  their  own  shops,  to  a  considerable 
extent,  follow  a  similar  plan  by  specializing  different  shops  for  par- 
ticular grades  of  garments.  In  establishments  conducting  their  own 
shops  there  is  in  addition  to  the  direct  labor  cost  an  overhead  factory 
expense  equal  to  between  20  and  30  per  cent  of  the  wages  paid. 
This  is  for  salaries  of  foremen,  superintendents,  clerks,  miscellaneous 
labor,  rent,  light,  heat  and  power,  and  similar  items.  Wliere  the 
contract  system  is  employed,  the  overhead  expense  is  equal  to  about 
10  per  cent  of  the  amount  paid  out  for  wages  and  for  contract  work. 

The  garments  are  returned  from  the  factory  to  the  stock  room  for 
examination,  busheling,  and  kbeling.  The  :l^ished  product  is  then 
ready  for  shipment  to  the  retailer. 

SCOPE   AND   METHOD  OF   IXQFIRY. 

The  investigation  of  the  board  concerned  itself  with  the  industry 
in  the  five  leading  centers — New  York,  Chicago,  Baltimore,  Pliila- 
delphia,  and  Rochester.  These  five  cities  in  1910  produced  approxi- 
mately $350,000,000  out  of  a  total  output  for  the  entire  country  of 
$485,000,000.  Their  proportion  was  thus  not  far  from  three-quarters. 
In  these  centers  serviceable  data  were  obtained  in  detail  from  houses 
with  a  combined  output  of  approximately  $70,000,000  net.  This 
information  was  secured  from  some  40  houses. 

A  very  much  larger  number  of  houses  were  visited.  From  some 
of  these  only  partial  information  could  be  obtained,  from  others  the 
data  required  for  this  investigation  could  not  be  secured,  chiefly  on 
account  of  the  inadequate  character  of  the  records — sometimes 
because  the  peculiar  character  of  the  business  made  it  undesirable  to 
include  the  data  under  standard  wliolesale  clothing. 

The  largest  number  of  houses  studied  was  in  New  York.  Owing  to 
the  smaller  average  size  of  the  houses  here,  the  volume  of  the  output  for 
the  establishments  taken  forms  approximately  10  percent  of  the  total 
output  of  the  city.  In  the  other  cities  the  output  of  the  houses  con- 
sidered in  any  center  is  from  one-sixth  to  over  one-half  of  the  total 
product  in  their  respective  cities  as  reported  by  the  census  for  1910. 
The  combined  volume  of  the  output  for  the  houses  furnishing  desired 
data  is  more  than  one-fifth  of  the  clothing  produced  in  the  five  great 
clothing  cities  and  one-seventh  of  the  entire  output  for  the  country. 

For  the  wholesale  clothing  industry  proper,  or  that  portion  of  it 
concerned  with  the  production  of  woolen  outer  garments,  the  pro- 


\ 


portion  made  by  the  houses  studied  is  much  higher.  The  census 
figures  include  under  men's  clothing  working  clothes  and  clothing 
novelties.  In  general  such  houses  were  not  considered  in  this  inves- 
tigation, SimSarly,  in  order  to  secure  uniformity  of  treatment  in 
the  above  figures,  there  were  not  included  any  establishments  which 
manufacture  primarily  for  their  own  retail  trade.  Emphasis  was 
laid  on  the  regular  wholesale  clothing  houses  in  order  to  secure  as  far 
as  possible  uniform  data  for  all  centers.  Owing  to  the  importance  of 
children's  clothing  in  New  York,  attention  was  given  there  to  that 
branch  of  the  industry. 

The  investigation  sought  to  obtain  data  for  the  industry  in  two 
ways.  In  the  first  place  an  analysis  was  made  of  the  manufacturer's 
costs,  as  revealed  by  his  books  for  a  year's  volume  of  business.  In 
the  second  place,  costs  were  obtained  for  the  production  of  typical 
suits,  pants,  and  overcoats. 

Special  attention  was  given  to  the  data  on  the  year's  volume  of 
business.  The  figures  on  the  basis  of  the  year  show  more  adequately 
the  relative  importance  of  the  cloth  and  material  cost  as  compared 
with  the  selling  price  than  any  calculations  based  on  typical  garments. 
In  such  annual  figures  allowance  is  made  for  the  fluctuations  in  the 
cost  of  material  and  of  labor  and  for  the  varying  discounts  given 
and  taken.  The  relation  of  overhead  costs  to  direct  expense  can  be 
clearly  established  only  on  the  basis  of  a  year's  expenence.  Sudi 
figures  are  necessarily  taken  from  the  books  and  reflect  actual  costs, 
not  calculations. 

The  data  for  the  year  are  in  the  main  for  1910,  In  a  few  instances, 
where  strikes  had  made  that  year  abnormal,  the  data  for  the  year 
1909  were  taken. 

In  securing  the  data  from  the  books,  the  items  sought  were  prin- 
cipally as  follows:  The  material  cost,  distinguishing  (a)  cloth  from 
(6)  trimmings-;  (c)  the  direct  labor  cost;  (d)  the  overhead  factory 
costs,  showing  details  for  wages  and  salaries,  rent,  depreciation,  and 
other  expenses;  (e)  selling  costs;  and  (f)  general  expense.  These 
items  were  on  the  side  of  expense.  On  the  revenue  side  the  net 
sales  for  the  year  were  secured. 

Owing  to  the  differences  in  methods  of  bookkeeping,  it  was  not 
always  possible  to  secure  all  the  details  desired.  Not  all  houses  could 
segregate  the  cost  of  their  cloth  from  that  of  trimmings.  The  division 
between  labor  and  overhead  manufacturing  expense,  and  again 
between  general  expense  connected  with  the  factory  and  the  business 
as  a  whole,  was  often  made  on  estimate,  so  that  the  totals  in  such 
cases  are  more  accurate  than  the  details.  Under  selling  expense 
was  included  only  items  clearly  applicable  to  the  sales,  such  as  the 
expense  of  salesmen,  advertising,  and  shipping  expense.  The 
figures  under  that  head  are  therefore  the  minimum  cost  of  effecting 
sales. 

Costs  were  obtained  on  specimen  garments.  Agents  were  instructed 
to  get  the  figures  for  garments  typical  of  the  product  of  the  firm 
visited.  Emphasis  was  laid  on  the  three-^iece  sack  suit,  which  is  the 
garment  most  nearly  standard.  Costs  were  secured  also  on  over- 
coats and  pants.  The  items  emphasized  here  were  cloth  cost,  trim- 
ming cost,  and  the  cost  of  the  various  operations  in  the  factory,  or  tlie 
total  labor  cost,  showing  separately  the  expense  of  sponging  and 
examining,  cutting  and  trimming,  and  making.     The  data  for  speci- 

32080°— H.  Doc.  342,  62-2,  vol  2 16 


854 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHBDUUB  K. 


men  garmente  ar©  generally  for  the  year  191 1 ;  in  a  few  cases  they  aro 

for  1910.  .        .     , .  X        •  J. 

The  figures  on  specimen  garments  given  m  this  report  are  m  most 
cases  substantiated  by  data  for  a  year's  business.^  In  some  houses 
the  data  are  average  figures  calculated  on  a  year's  expenence.  In 
others  they  are  estimated,  being  the  same  estimate  or  calculation 
which  the  establishments  use  in  calculating  the  prices  to  be  charged 
by  salesmen.  In  such  eases  they  are  likely  to  overstate  costs  and 
must  be  used  in  connection  with  the  annual  figures.  Where  over- 
head expense  has  been  added  to  the  cost  of  material  and  direct  labor, 
the  ratios  used  have  been  taken  from  the  yearly  figures. 

METHODS   OF   PRESENTATION. 

The  data  secured  has  been  studied  with  a  view  to  indicating 
primarily  the  importance  for  the  clothing  industry  of  the  following 

items  * 

1.  Cloth  and  other  woolen  fabrics. 

2.  Total  material  cost. 

3.  Conversion  cost  (labor  and  factory  expense). 

A  complete  analysis  of  the  data,  however,  requires  the  statement 
of  the  other  items  of  expense,  viz : 

4.  Selling  costs. 

5.  General  expense.  . 

It  reveals  also  a  figure  which  may  with  certain  restrictions  be 

called  ^ 

ft    "Profits 

Not  all  the  schedules  secured  contained  all  the  data  required. 
Some  were  too  imperfect  to  be  of  use,  others  were  affected  by  abnormal 
conditions  peculiar  to  the  firm.  In  some  cases  the  total  figures 
were  secured,  but  no  adequate  analysis  could  be  obtaiijed. 

Difficulty  was  experienced  in  the  case  of  a  number  of  firi^  m 
securing  a  segregation  of  cloth  and  trimmings  costs,  many  firms 
carrying  no  separate  accounts  for  those  items.  The  calculations 
shomng  the  relative  importance  of  these  items  for  vanous  grades 
of  clothing  are  based  on  the  data  supplied  by  the  estabh^iments 
furnishing  such  information.  In  tlie  calculation  for  cloth  cost, 
there  has  been  taken  out  the  amount  realized  from  rags  or  cUppings 
sold.  On  the  whole  the  item  is  slight.  The  information  on  these 
points  is  supplemented  by  a  calculation  of  the  relative  importance 
of  the  different  elements  of  cost,  based  on  tlie  data  furmshed  for 
specimen  garments. 

The  total  material  cost  could  be  secured  from  many  firms,  where 
the  details  could  not  be  secured.  In  a  few  cases  the  amount  given 
for  material  cost  nicludes  also  some  adjustment  for  changes  m  the 
stock  of  finished  goods.  Tliis  is  not,  however,  of  sufiicient  moment 
to  disturb  the  general  significance  of  the  figure.  .,      ^  x  i 

In  using  the  data,  it  is  preferable  to  lay  emphasis  on  the  total 
conversion  cost,  rather  than  on  the  distinction  between  direct  labor 
and  overhead  manufacturing  expense.  Accounting  in  the  clothing 
industry  is  very  imperfect,  and  the  distinction  between  direct  and 
indirect  labor  is  not  often  made  on  the  books.  At  best  it  rests  for 
the  most  part  on  estimate.  More  disturbing  a  factor  is  the  wide 
prevalence  of  the  contract  system.     Many  firms  do  not  distinguisli 


REPORT  OF   TARIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDUIiE  K. 


855 


on  their  general  books  wages  paid  to  employees  from  payments  to* 
contractors.  The  contract  price  includes  such  elements  as  superin- 
tendence, rent,  and  other  expense,  and  is  therefore  not  to  be  regarded 
as  wages.  The  relative  proportion  of  contract  work  and  work  done 
in  the  factory  of  the  establishment  is  most  varied.  In  the  tables 
drawn  up,  payments  to  contractors  have  been  treated  in  the  same  way 
as  wages.  In  such  cases,  distinction  made  here  between  direct  labor 
and  overhead  expense  obviously  loses  significance,  and  only  the 
total  figure  for  conversion  cost  can  be  relied  upon. 

The  item  of  greatest  significance  is  the  total  cost  of  the  manufac- 
tured garment  at  the  factory.  This  figure  would  be  the  basis  of 
comparison  for  American  ana  foreign  costs.  Other  expenses  would 
presumably  have  to  be  incurred  by  any  foreign  producer,  who  sought 
to  place  his  product  with  American  consumers.  He  would  have  to 
undergo  similar  expenses  in  employing  salesmen,  in  advertising,  and 
in  conducting  a  general  office. 

From  anotner  point  of  view  the  factory  cost  is  the  most  significant 
item.  The  total  expenditures  for  cloth  and  conversion  expense, 
show  a  most  remarkable  uniformity  for  the  different  producers. 
This  is  easily  intelligible.  The  manufacturer  deals  here  with  factors 
over  which  he  has,  comparatively  speaking,  only  limited  control, 
the  price  paid  for  his  materials,  and  the  price  paid  for  labor.  The 
expenses  to  be  incurred  in  making  sales  are  more  readily  shaped 
according  to  the  manufacturer's  policy,  and  accordingly  show  great 
variation.  The  same  applies  in  a  lesser  degree  to  the  general  expense 
which  is  incurred  by  the  establishment  as  a  whole  and  which  can  not 
be  readily  apportioned  to  one  or  another  division  of  the  business. 

Selling  costs  are  here  strictlv  defined  so  as  to  include  only  such 
items  as  are  directly  connected  with  sales.  These  are  the  salaries, 
commissions  and  travehng  expenses  of  salesmen,  advertising  and  the 
minor  items  connected  with  sliipping  and  collections.  The  most  vari- 
able item  here  is,  of  course,  advertising.  Some  houses  spend  as  much 
as  4  and  even  5  per  cent  of  their  net  receipts  from  sales  for  advertising, 
many  spend  substantially  nothing.  The  expense  of  salesmen  varies 
very  widely,  largely  because  some  estabhshments  have  a  large  house 
trade,  or  effect  most  of  their  sales  tlirough  members  of  the  firm.  As 
a  result,  what  appears  as  expense  in  one  case,  appears  as  profits  in 
another. 

General  expense  calls  for  Uttle  comment  except  that  under  this 
head  corporations  often  include  large  amounts  nominally  for  salaries, 
actually  for  a  division  of  profits.  As  the  majority  of  concerns  dealt 
with  in  this  investigation  are  firms,  in  wliich  no  allowance  is  made  for 
partners'  salaries,  for  purposes  of  uniformity,  officers'  salaries  are 
Ignored  under  expenses  and  treated  as  profits. 

From  general  expense  there  was  further  omitted  allowances  for 
interest  on  capital  of  the  partners,  or  on  the  bonds  of  corporations,  or 
on  loans.  The  reason  for  this  is  that  such  items  have  no  direct  rela- 
tion to  the  volume  of  business,  but  aro  dependent  on  the  extent  and 
character  of  the  investment.  No  attempt  was  made  in  this  investi- 
gation to  find  out  the  relation  of  profits  to  the  investment.  An  attempt 
in  tliis  direction  would  have  been  attended  with  too  many  difficulties. 
Similarly  no  allowance  was  made  under  general  expense  for  losses 
through  bad  debts.  Tliis,  too,  is  an  item  that  has  no  direct  relation  to 
the  volume  of  business;  and  shows  wide  variation  among  different 


856 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON   SCHEDFUB  K. 


houses.  On  the  whole  it  is  not  of  much  sigmficanee.  The  other 
charges  under  the  head  of  general  expense  require  little  comment. 
The  chief  items  are  rent  for  general  office,  stock  and  show  rooms; 
wages  and  salaries  of  the  office  staff  and  general  employees;  sta- 
tionery, and  miscellaneous  items.  .  ,  ,  ,  .^  ,.  ,  ,  . 
In  presenting  the  data  the  pnnciple  of  classification  employed  is 
the  grade  of  output.  Classifications  according  to  cities  is  neither 
desirable  nor  feasible.  The  classification  adopted  is  attended  with 
considerable  difficulty,  owing  to  the  absence  of  clear  demarcations. 
As  already  noted,  the  output  of  firms  covers  often  a  wide  range  of 
prices.  The  average  price  of  garments  as  stated  by  the  firm  or  as 
calculated  from  information  given  as  to  the  number  of  garments  sold, 
has  been  used  as  a  guide.  On  this  basis  houses  have  been  grouped 
according  to  the  average  price  of  garments  as  follows: 
1 .  S8  or  less. 

3.  $15  and  over.  ,  ,.^         .  ^   , 

The  last  group  subdivides  itself  into  two  subgroups,  dilTerentiated 
not  so  much  in  the  average  price  of  their  product,  as  in  the  dilference 
in  emphasis  on  style  and  workmanship  as  compared  with  the  material. 
A  classification  along  the  lines  of  these  groupings  is  in  part  also  a 
classification  along  geographical  lines.  Thus  Rochester  and  Clucago 
firms  are  found  principaUv  under  the  second  and  third  heads,  Fhila- 
delphia  and  Baltimore  under  the  first  two  heads,  New  York  is  repre- 
sented under  each  division,  but  it  is  more  largely  represented  under 
the  first  and  second  groups.  Outside  of  th^se  groupings  the  special 
order  houses  and  the  manufacturers  of  children  s  clothmg  are  dealt 

with  separately.  ,    , 

For  comparison  aU  items  of  expense  are  reduced  to  ratios  ofthe 
net  seUing  price,  to  facilitate  the  handhng  of  the  information.  Ihis 
follows  trade  usage,  in  which  calculations  are  related  to  selling  prices 
rather  than  costs.  The  absolute  amounts  are  given  in  tables  where 
this  can  be  done  without  revealing  the  source  of  information,  and 
also  their  equivalents  stated  as  per  cents  of  the  selling  price. 
The  data  secured  are  summed  up  in  the  tables  pnnted  below. 

ANALYSIS     OF    COSTS,     ON     THE     BASIS    OF    THE     YEAELY     FIGUBES 

ACCORDING  TO  GRADES  OF  CLOTHING. 

The  tables  anal vzing  costs  on  the  basis  of  data  for  a  year's  business 
show  for  each  gracle  of  clothing  the  relative  cost  of  cloth,  trimmings, 
manufacturing  or  conversion  expense,  selling  expense,  general 
expense,  and  profits  as  defined  above.  As  printed  below  they  give 
the  totals  for  different  grades  of  clo tiling;  the  details  for  estabhshments 
can  not  be  given  without  danger  of  reveahng  confidential  information. 
In  Table  4  the  data  are  for  all  wholesale  houses  here  considered.  In 
Table  5  the  data  are  for  those  houses  whose  records  showed  separately 
the  cost  of  cloth  and  of  trimming.  .„  ,     ..       i  • 

Convenient  summaries  of  these  tables  will  be  found  in  connection 
with  the  analysis  of  the  data  here  presented. 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K, 

Table  4. — Cost  of  nianitfactunng  clothing — mens^  clothing,  1910. 
[Data  for  wholesale  eatablishmcats  visited.] 


857 


Items. 

Cheap 
(S8and 
under). 1 

Medium 
($8to$15).i 

High  grade 
($15  and  over).* 

Specialty. 

Children. 

Special 
order. 

Total. 

Cla«w  A. a 

Class  B.* 

Net  sales 

$8,792,819 
5,117,003 

$16,399,732 

9,008,067 

$25,190,729 
13,603,273 

$8,218,207 
3,762,859 

$1,696,657 
867,722 

$3,382,373 

$5,262,169 

$68,942,686 

Material  cost 

1,924,918   2,355,714 

36,639,556 

Manufa  c  t  u  r  i  n  g 
cost: 

Direct  labor ' 

Factory  expense 

1,830,197 
113,605 

3,919,909 
509,491 

6,046,150 
1,247,374 

2,198,907 

428,061 

189,722 
103,0.59 

817,791 
100,896 

1,244,809 
214,387 

16,247,485 
2,716,873 

Total    manu- 
lactiiring  ex- 
pense   

Total  cost  of  man- 
ufactured cloth- 
ing.  

1,943,802 
7,060,805 

+  224,821 

4,429,400 
13,437,407 

-10,160 

7,293,524 
20,896,797 

-526,700 

2,626,968 
6,389,827 

-176,061 

292,781 
1,160,503 

+  131,076 

918,687 
2,843,605 

-3, 179 

1,459,196 
3,814,910 

55,603,914 

Increase    or    de- 
crease     during 
year  in  stock  of 
finished  goods. . . 

—360,203 

Cost    of   clothing 
sold 

7,285,626 

13,427,307 

20,370,097 

6,213,766 

1,291,579 

2,840,426 

3,814,910 

55,243,711 

General  expense: 
SeUing  expense. . 
Overhead      ex- 
pense   

376,870 
276,327 

1,053,207 
611.630 

1,594,342 
939.607 

584,292 
328,966 

20(),02] 
93.217 

178,025 
152,890 

021,063 
404,594 

4,613,880 
2,807,231 

Total  gener- 
al expense . 

653,197 

1,664,897 

2,533,949 

913,258 

299,238 

330,915 

1,025,657 

7,421,111 

Total  cost.. - 
Profit* 

7,938,823 
853,996 

15,092,204 

1,307,528 

22,904,040 
2,286,683 

7,127,024 
1,091,183 

1.590,817 
105,840 

3,171,341 
211,032 

4,840,567 
421,602 

62,664,^22 
6,277,864 

>  For  average  price  of  garment  sold. 

»  These  are  two  classes  of  the  same  grade  of  clothing.  They  are  distinguished  not  so  much  by  selling  price 
as  by  the  relative  emphasis  on  cloth  and  material  cost  (Class  A)  as  contrasted  with  workmanship  and  the 
consequent  labor  cost  (Class  J3). 

«  This  entry  represents  direct  labor  where  the  manufacturer  has  his  own  shops;  otherwise  it  stands  for  the 
direct  labor  in  the  cutting  room  plus  the  amount  paid  to  contractors  for  making  up  the  garments. 

*  Profit  is  used  here  to  denote  the  balance  after  deducting  the  items  specified.  It  does  not  represent  net 
profit  as  from  the  amoimt  shown  must  be  deducted  such  items  as  salaries  of  officers,  compensation  for 
eervioes  of  members  of  firm,  interest  on  capitei  invested  or  borrowed,  and  bad  debts. 

Table  4  presents  the  data  for  houses  disposing  of  $70,000,000  of 
clothing  a  year.  Tliis  is  the  net  amount  received  after  deducting  all 
discounts  and  allowances.  For  most  houses  the  discount,  which  is 
often  as  high  as  10  per  cent,  would  average  about  7  per  cent.  ^  A  few 
houses  sell  net.  The  volume  of  sales  shown  for  any  of  the  different 
classes  of  clothing  is  not  to  be  taken  as  representative  of  its  impor- 
tance in  the  industry.  Thus  the  relative  importance  of  cheap  clothing 
is  probably  greater  than  would  appear  frona  this  table;  on  the  other 
hand,  the  importance  of  high-grade  clothing  is  undoubtedly  less. 
Owing  to  the  fact  that  very  much  cheap  clothing  is  made  by  small 
firms,  keeping  inadequate  records,  it  was  much  more  difficult  to  secure 
adequate  information  for  a  large  volume  of  cheap  clothing  than  for 
high-grade  clothing.  The  latter  is  manufactured  more  extensively 
by  large  estabhshments  keeping  records  from  which  the  necessary 
information  was  readily  obtainable. 

Table  5,  printed  below,  is  restricted  to  estabhshments  whose  records 
showed  specificallv  the  cost  of  cloth  used  during  the  year  in  manu- 
facturing. The  data  are  for  estabhshments  selHng  $50,000,000  of 
clothing  a  year.     This  table  allows  for  a  determination  of  the  relative 


858 


REPOBT  OF  TAEITF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


importance  of  cloth  among  the  costs  of  the  manufacturer.  Wliik 
covering  a  smaller  volume  of  product,  the  data  presented  in  this  table 
are  ample  to  show  the  importance  of  cloth  for  every  grade  of  clothing 
produced. 

Table  5.— Cost  of  manufacturing  clothing — Men's  clothing — 1910. 
[Data  for  establishments  showing  Beparately  cost  of  cloth  and  cost  of  Irimmings.l 


Xtoins. 

Cheap 
(18  and 

iinder).i 

Ifediom 
(18  to 

High  grad«  (tl5  and 
over).» 

Children. 

Special 
order. 

TotaL 

Class  A.« 

Class  B.« 

Net  sales 

17,049,554 

f7,335,919 

125,190,729  !$S,659,307 

$1,525,323 

$3,394,483 

$50,155,315 

Material  cost: 

Cloth 

TriTTiminps , 

3.199,386 
935,810 

2.765,636 

1,284,081 

631 

8,803,488 

4, 745. 592 

54,193 

l.473.2';2 

877.212 

16. 875 

535,402 

262,008 

1,338 

1,127,761 

332, 108 

4,603 

17.904,W5 
8,436,811 

Freight' 

77,730 

Total  material  expense. . 

4, 135, 196 

4,050,348 

13.603.273 

2,367,359 

798,748 

1,464,562 

26.419,486 

Manufactturlng  cost: 

Direct  labor  * 

1,428,717 
76,971 

1,738.649 
247,324 

6.046.1.50 
1.247.374 

1,578,977 
278.061 

392,526 
44,141 

876,517 
137.650 

12.061.536 

Factory  expense 

2.031,521 

Total      mannfacturing 
expense 

1,505,688 

1,985,973 

7,293,524 

1,857.038 

436.667 

1.014,167 

14,093,057 

T<»tal  cost  of  manufac- 
tured clothing 

5,640,884 

6,036.321 
-141,522 

20.896,797    1,224.397 

1.23,'>,415 
-3,179 

2,478,729 

40,512,543 

Increase  or  decrease  during 
year  in  stock  of  finishea 
goods. 

-f-210, 721 

-528, 700 

+85.439 

-375,241 

Cost  of  dothing  sold 

5,851,605 

5,894,799 

20.370,097 

4.309.836 

1.232,236 

2, 478. 729 

40.137,302 

Ck^nnral  exi)^isp: 

Selllns  cxDense 

272,536 
215, 258 

499,728 
283,607 

1,594,342 
939,607 

492, 792 
182, 776 

118, 100 
79,767 

629,635 
291,260 

3.507,131 

OTerhead  expense 

1,992,275 

Total  general  expenae. . . 

487.794 

783,333 

2,533,949 

675,568 

197,867 

820,895 

5, 499, 406 

Total  cost 

6,339.399 
710, 155 

6, 678. 132 
657,787 

22,904,046 
3,»},e83 

4,985,404 
673,903 

1,430,103 

3,299.624 

94,859 

45,636,708 

Profits 

4,518,007 

t  For  average  price  of  garment  sold.  ^     ,       .  ^  ^     ^  ^  ^.       ,„       _, 

«  These  are  two  classes  of  t  he  same  grade  of  clothing.  They  are  distinguished  not  so  much  by  scllUig  price 
as  by  the  relative  emphasis  on  cloth  and  material  cost  (Class  A)  as  contrasted  with  workmanship  and  the 
consequent  labor  cost  (Class  B).  .   .  ._.  ^  ,  xi. 

•  Data  not  shown  completely  imder  this  heading.    Some  firms  diarge  freight  to  general  expoise;  others 

add  it  to  cost  of  material.  .  ...  ^  .,.       ^     ,x   .     ^  »     *u^ 

« This  entry  represents  direct  labor  where  the  manufacturer  has  his  own  shops;  otherwise  it  stands  for  the 

direct  labor  in  the  cutting  room  plus  the  amount  paid  to  contractors  for  making  up  the  garmenla. 
6  Profit  is  used  here  to  denote  the  balance  after  deducting  the  items  specitied.    It  does  not  represent  net 

profit,  as  from  the  amount  shown  must  be  deducted  such  items  as  salaries  at  officers,  compensation  for  services 

of  members  of  firm,  interest  on  capital  invested  or  borrowed  and  bad  debts. 

Attention  is  called  to  a  few  of  the  items  in  the  above  tables.  In 
Table  4  freight  is  included  in  material  cost.  In  Table  5  it  is  shown 
separately  where  reported.  The  data  on  this  point  is  not  complete, 
some  houses  adding  it  on  to  the  cost  of  material ;  others  entenng  it 
under  general  expense.  Owinff  to  the  fact  that  the  volume  of  the 
clothing  produced  and  that  sold  in  the  given  vear  is  not  identical, 
Tables  4  and  5  show  separately  the  cost  of  stoclk  manufactured,  and 
the  cost  of  the  stock  sold.  Tlie  latter  figure  is  obtained  by  adding 
to  the  stock  manufactured  m  the  year,  or  subtracting  from  it  the 
difference  between  the  stock  of  finished  goods  (including  goods  in 
process)  at  the  beginning  of  the  year  and  that  at  the  close.  It  is 
necessan^  to  emphasize  again  the  meaning  of  the  term  profit  as  here 
used,  ft  is  a  figure  arrived  at  before  deducting  salaries  of  officers 
or  any  compensation  for  the  serviced  of  partners,  and  before  making 


BEPOfiT  OF   TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE   K. 


859 


I 


any  allowances  for  bad  debts,  or  for  interest  on  the  capital  invested 
or  on  money  borrowed. 

To  facihtate  the  study;  of  the  information  contained  in  Tables  4 
and  5  the  data  contained  in  them  are  in  the  following  tables  expresseci 
in  comparable  terms,  viz,  as  percentages  of  the  sellii^  price.  la 
other  words,  there  is  here  shown  the  disposition  of  the  receipts  from 
the  sale  of  a  year's  production — ^how  much  goes  for  cloth  and  for 
other  materials;  how  much  for  labor  and  for  factory  expense;  how 
much  is  spent  in  commissions  to  salesmen,  in  advertising,  and  in  other 
incidental  selling  expense,  and  in  the  general  expense  of  the  business; 
and  what  remains  to  the  proprietors  or  stockholders  to  recompense 
them  for  their  o\\ti  personal  services,  and  for  the  capital  they  have  put 
in  or  borrowed,  and  for  incidental  losses.  These  items  of  expense  may 
be  compared  for  the  different  grades  of  clothing. 

Table  6  and  Table  7  are  complementary  tables  to  Tables  4  and  5, 
respectively.  Table  6  gives  the  data  for  all  wholesale  houses  here 
studied;  Table  7  gives  the  data  for  all  houses  showing  separately  the 
cost  of  cloth  and  the  cost  of  other  material  v«ed  in  the  industry. 

Table  6.— Cost  of  imnufacturing  clothing,   1910~Data  for  wholesale   establishments 

visited. 

[Items  of  cost  expressed  as  per  cents  cf  net  selling  price.] 


It^ms 

Cheap 
(«8and 
un- 
der).! 

Me- 
dium 

mto 

tl5).i 

High  Grade 
($15  and  over).i 

Spe- 
cialty. 

Chil- 
dren. 

Special 
order. 

aass 

A.2 

Class 

B.8 

Total. 

Net  sales 

100.0 
GO.l 

100.0 
54.9 

100.0 
52.7 

100.0 
44.5 

100.0 
56.9 

100.0 
56.9 

100.0 
44.8 

100.0 
52.8 

Uaterial  cost 

Manufacturing  cost: 

Direct  labor  » 

21.5 
1.3 

23.9 
3.1 

23.3 
4.9 

36.0 
5.1 

12.4 

6.8 

24.2 

2.9 

23.7 
4.0 

23.4 
3.9 

Factory  exjjense 

Total  manufacturing  eipense . . 

22.8 

27.0 

28.2 

31.1 

19.2 

27.1 

27.7 

27.3 

Total    cost    of    manufactured 
clothing  * 

82.9 

81.9 

80.9 

75.6 

76.1 

84.0 

72.5 

80.1 

General  expense: 

Helling  expense 

4.3 
3.1 

6.4 
3.7 

6.3 
3.7 

7.1 
4.0 

12.1 
5.5 

5.3 
4.5 

11.8 

7.7 

6.7 
4.1 

Overhead  expense 

Total  general  exi>en&e 

7.4 

10.1 

10.0 

11.1 

17.6 

9.8 

19.5 

10.8 

Total  cost 

90.3 
9.7 

92.0 
8.0 

90.9 
9.1 

86.7 
13.3 

93.7 
6.3 

93.8 
6.2 

92.0 
8.0 

Profit* 

90.  if 

9. 1 

»  For  average  price  of  garment  sold. 

« These  are  two  classes  of  the  same  grade  of  clothing.  They  are  distinguished  not  so  much  by  selline 
price  as  by  the  relative  emphasis  on  cloth  and  material  cost  (Class  A)  as  contrasted  with  workmanship 
and  the  consequent  labor  cost  (Class  B).  *^ 

8  1  his  entry  represents  direct  labor  where  the  manufacturer  has  his  own  shops;  otherwise  it  stands  for 
the  direct  labor  m  the  cuttmg  room  plus  the  amount  paid  to  contractors  for  making  up  the  garments 
Jin  making  these  percentape  tables  it  has  been  assumed  that  the  elements  of  cost  in  sKxk  of  finished 
^ods  broueht  forward  from  the  preoedmg  year  is  the  same  as  in  stock  manufactured  during  the  vear 
From  the  details  of  cost  for  goods  manufactured  during  the  year  there  is  added  or  subtracted  a  propor- 
tional amount  for  increase  or  decrease  of  stock  as  shown  by  the  inventories  of  finished  goods  at  the  bekn- 
nmg  and  close  of  the  year.  In  this  way  an  adjustment  is  made  between  the  output  for  the  vear  in  manu- 
factured garments  and  sales  for  the  year.  "^  ^ 

*  '•  l»roflt "  is  used  here  to  denote  the  balance  after  deducting  the  items  specified.  It  does  nat  represent 
net  profit,  as  from  the  amount  shown  must  bo  deducted  such  items  as  salaries  of  officers,  compensation 
lor  services  of  members  of  firm,  interest  on  capital  invested  or  borrowed,  and  bad  debts. 

Analysis  of  the  information  obtained  in  this  investigation  reveals 
the  fact  that  in  all  the  houses  studied  the  cost  of  materials  entering 
into  clothing  is  equel  to  53  per  cent  of  the  selling  price.     The  expense 


860 


BEPOBT  OF  TAKIFF  BOARD   0^  SCHEDULE   K. 


connected  with  converting  the  material  into  garment®  absorbs  over 
one-fourth  of  the  amount  for  which  these  are  sold.  As  the  garment 
leaves  the  factory  they  have  cost  the  manufacturer  80  per  cent  of 
the  price  for  which  they  are  sold.  Marketing  the  product  absorbs 
7  per  cent  in  commission  to  salesmen,  advertising,  and  incidental 
selling  expenses.  The  general  expenses  of  running  the  business 
absorbs  4  per  cent  more.  The  manufacturer  has  left  about  9  per 
cent  from  which  he  may  deduct  losses  through  bad  debts  and  reim- 
burse himself  for  services  of  partners  or  oflficers  and  for  the  capital 
invested  or  borrowed  for  the  business.  This  figure  for  profit,  it 
should  be  borne  in  mind,  is  not  a  percentage  of  either  capital  or 
investment,  but  of  net  receipts  for  the  year — receipts  with  all  dis- 
counts and  allowances  out. 

The  cost  of  cloth  used  in  making  men's  clothing  is  the  additional 
information  essential  to  this  investigation  sho^^Ti  in  the  following 
table.  Tlie  data  are  for  houses  that  show  separately  the  cost  of 
cloth  and  the  cost  of  other  material  (see  Table  5,  to  which  this  table 
corresponds),  and  the  records  of  which  are  more  adequate  for  the 
purpose  of  this  investigation. 

Table    7.— Cost  of  manufacturing  clothing  1910— Data  for  establishmenU  showing 

separately  co'^t  of  cloth  and  cost  of  trimmings, 

[Items  of  cost  ecpressed  as  per  cents  of  net  selling  price.l 


* 

Cheap 

($8  and 
under).* 

Medi- 
um ($S 
to$15).> 

High  grade  (115 
and  over). I 

Chil- 
dren. 

Special 
order. 

Total. 

Items. 

Class 

Class 

N  et  Sales 

100.0 

100.0 

100.0 

100.0 

100.0 

100.0 

100.0 

Material  cost: 

Clot  h 

47.1 
13.7 

36.8 
17.1 

34.1 

18.4 

.2 

26.6 

15.8 

.3 

35.0 

17.1 

.1 

33.2 

9.8 

.1 

35.4 

Triniminirs.        

1&6 

Freight  *. 

.2 

Total 

(».  8 

53.9 

52.7 

42.7 

52.2 

43.1 

52.2 

Manufacturing  cost: 

Direct  labor  *.        

21.0 
1.2 

23.2 
3.3 

23.4 

4.8 

28.5 
5.0 

25.7 
2.9 

25.8 
4.1 

23.8 

Factory  exDcnse 

4.0 

Total  Tnairmfafturinf?  e'ti>f tvs- 

■  22.2 

26.5 

28.2 

33.5 

28.6 

29.9 

27.8 

Total  cost  of  manufactured  clothing  •. . . 

83.0 

80.4 

80.9 

76.2 

80.8 

73.0 

80.0 

General  overhead  expense: 

Selline  expense 

3.9 
3.0 

6.8 
3.9 

e:3 
3.7 

8.7 
3.2 

7.8 
5.2 

15.6 
8.6 

7.0 

'  icnerai  excense 

4.0 

Total 

6.9 

10.7 

10.0 

11.9 

13.0 

24.2 

11.0 

Total  cost 

89.9 
10.1 

91.1 
8.9 

90.9 
9.1 

88.1 
11.9 

93.8 
6.2 

97.2 
2.8 

91.0 

Profl  t « 

9.0 

»  For  average  price  of  garment  sold.  ,  ,        ... 

2  These  are  two  classes  of  the  same  grade  of  clothing.  They  are  distinguished  not  so  much  by  seUing 
price  as  by  the  relative  emphasis  on  cloth  and  material  cost  (Class  A)  as  contrasted  with  workmanship 
and  the  consequent  lal)or  cost  (Class  B). 

«  The  data  is  not  showTi  c-ompletely  under  this  head,  some  firms  charging  freight  to  general  expense, 
others  adding  it  to  the  cost  of  the  material. 

*  This  entry  represents  direct  labor  where  the  manufacturer  has  his  own  shops;  otherwise  it  stands  for 
the  direct  labor  in  the  cutting  room  plus  the  amount  paid  to  contractors  for  making  up  the  garments. 

« In  making  these  percentage  tables  it  has  been  assumed  that  the  elements  of  cost  in  stock  of  finished 
goods  brought  forward  from  the  preceding  year  is  the  same  as  in  stock  manufactured  during  the  year. 
From  the  details  of  cost  for  goods  manufactured  during  the  year  there  is  added  or  subtracted  a  propor- 
tional amount  for  increase  or  decrease  of  stock  as  shown  by  the  inventories  of  finished  goods  at  the  begin- 
ning and  close  of  the  year.  In  this  way  an  adjustment  is  made  between  the  output  for  the  year  in  manu- 
factured garments  and  the  sales  for  the  year.  .„   ,     ,x  , 

•  Profit  is  uaefl  here  to  denote  the  balance  after  deducting  the  items  specified.  It  does  not  represent 
net  profit  as  from  the  amount  shown  must  be  deducted  such  items  as  salaries  of  officers,  oompeusation  for 
servicea  of  members  of  finn,  interest  on  capital  invested  or  borrowed,  and  bad  debts. 


KEPORT  OF   TARIFF   BO.^IID   ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


861 


I 


The  cost  of  cloth  entering  into  men's  clothing  is  equal  to  more 
than  one-third  of  the  selling  price,  the  cost  of  the  other  material  is 
one-sixth.  The  total  material  cost  is  over  one-half.  The  other 
details  of  cost  revealed  by  this  table  are  the  same  as  in  the  foregoing. 
The  close  conformity  of  the  percentages  for  the  items  of  expense  in 
the  two  tables,  make  it  very  evident  that  the  establishments  repre- 
sented in  this  table  are  characteristic  of  all  the  establishments 
investigated,  and  that  the  cloth  costs  as  found  here  apply  grade  for 
grade  to  the  industry  as  a  whole. 

More  significant  than  these  generalizations,  are  differences  in  the 
relative  importance  of  various  elements  in  cost  for  different  grades 
of  clothing.  An  analysis  of  the  information  secured  for  various 
classes  of  garments  yields  these  general  results: 

(1)  The  material  cost  forms  a  larger  proportion  of  the  selling  price 
in  lower  grade  clothing  than  in  liigher  priced  clothing. 

(2)  The  cloth  cost  similarly  forms  a  higher  per  cent  of  the  selling 
price  in  cheaper  clothing  than  in  the  more  expensive  varieties. 

(3)  In  compensation  for  the  lower  relative  cost  of  cloth  in  the 
finer  grades  of  clothing,  better  trimmings  are  used  and  more  labor. 

(4)  Except  in  very  high  grade  clothing,  the  factory  cost  of  the 
product,  i.  e.,  expenditures  for  cloth,  trimmings  and  for  labor  and 
other  factory  expenses  are  equal  to  approximately  80  per  cent  of 
the  seUing  price.  For  a  small  group  of  manufacturers  of  very  high 
grade  clotmng  the  factory  cost  is  about  75  per  cent.  It  appears 
that  in  cheaper  clothing  the  margin  between  seUing  price  and  fac- 
tory cost  is  somewhat  lower  than  in  higher  priced  clotliing. 

From  the  point  of  view  of  the  present  investigation  the  most 
significant  facts  revealed  are  those  showing  the  cloth  cost.  This 
varies  from  49.6  per  cent  for  an  establishment  in  which  the  produc- 
tion of  pants  was  very  important,  and  46.5  per  cent  for  a  house 
manufacturing  only  suits,  to  26  per  cent  for  houses  producing  the 
highest  grades  of  clothing.  In  onlv  a  very  few  houses  was  the  cloth 
cost  less  than  one-third.  These  houses  produced  about  one-sixth 
of  the  volume  of  clothing  here  studied,  but  this  represents  an  undue 
proportion  of  such  clothing  made.  For  the  bulk  of  clothing  the 
cloth  cost  is  nearer  to  40  per  cent  of  the  amount  reahzed  from  sales. 

The  cloth  cost  does  not  represent  the  total  cost  of  the  woolens 
entering  into  the  manufacture  of  a  suit.  Next  to  the  cloth,  the  woolen 
lining  is  the  most  important  item  in  costs.  It  appears  that  woolen 
linings  are  used  in  suits  sold  from  about  $7.50  and  up  wholesale. 
From  the  data  available  on  the  cost  of  linings,  and  the  yardage  used, 
the  cost  of  such  linings  per  suit  would  be  equal  to  fuUy  from  5  to  6 
per  cent  of  the  wholesale  selling  price.  The  average  woolens  cost  of 
clothing  may  therefore  be  estimated  at  about  40  per  cent  for  the 
total  value  considered  and  about  45  per  cent  for  the  more  popular 
grades  of  clothing  sold. 


CLOTH   COST. 


Grouping  the  establishments  according  to  the  grade  of  clothing, 
the  following  are  the  significant  features:  For  manufacturers  whose 
product  sells  for  $8  or  less  wholesale,  the  total  material  cost  is  about 
60  per  cent  of  the  seUing  price,  the  cloth  cost  is  in  excess  of  40  per 
cent.    Manufacturers  in  tne  grades  above  this,  whose  product  sells 


KEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOABD  ON   SCHEDrUS  K. 


at  from  $8  to  about  $15,  report  a  material  cost  of  about  55  per  cent, 
and  a  cloth  cost  of  from  35  per  cent  to  40  per  cent.  Manufacturers 
of  high-grade  clothing  report  a  sliglitly  lower  material  cost  and  tho 
cloth  cost  is  approximately  35  per  cent.  A  small  subgroup  here  reports 
a  material  cost  of  42  per  cent,  and  a  cloth  cost  of  between  26  per  cent 
and  29  per  cent. 

The  importance  of  the  results  revealed  by  this  analysis  Ues  in  the 
fact  that  m  the  popular  lines  of  clothing — suits  and  overcoats  seUing 
at  retail  for  less  than  $20  and  $25 — ^the  material  used  costs  between 
50  per  cent  and  60  per  cent  of  the  net  wholesale  sellii^price,  and  the 
cloth  used  absorbs  fully  40  per  cent  of  such  price.  The  clothing  to 
which  this  generalization  appHes  constitutes  the  bulk  of  tho  clothing 
sold. 

Less  attention  need  bo  given  to  tho  items  of  trimmings.  On  all 
clothing  trimmings  absorb  14  per  cent  to  18  per  cent  of  the  selling 
price.  In  high-grade  clothing  selMng  on  the  average  for  about  $15 
to  $16  wholesale,  the  ratio  is  18  to  19  per  cent.  Relative  to  the  cost 
of  cloth,  however,  tho  c<)st  of  trimmings  increases  with  the  cost  of 
the  garments. 

Factory  labor  and  factory  expenses  are  equal  to  about  22  per  cent 
on  cheaper  grades  of  garments,  i.  e.,  garments  selling  wholesale  at  an 
average  of  $8  or  less.  In  tlie  grades  above,  or  garments  selling  at 
wholesale  for  $10  to  $15,  tho  factory  cost  is  over  25  per  cent.  For 
high-grade  clothing  it  is  nearer  to  30  per  cent.  In  these  percentages 
of  the  selhng  price  here  given  as  expended  in  the  factory,  there  aro 
included  not  only  wages,  out  also  salaries,  rent,  factory  supplies,  and 
other  incidental  expenses.  While  the  distinction  between  direct 
labor  and  factorv  expense  as  used  here  is  nob  too  significant,  the 
increasmg  ratio  for  factory  expense  reflects  the  fact  that  the  higher 
grade  garments  are  made  in  inside  siiops,  and  involve  a  greater 
expense  for  supervision,  whereas  cheaper  garments  are  more  exten- 
sively contracted  out  and  involve  a  smaller  general  expense  on  part 
of  tho  wholesaler. 

For  special-order  clothing  the  situation  is  different  from  that  for 
regular  clotliing.  There  the  total  material  cost  for  the  houses  taken 
is  between  43  and  48  per  cent,  tlie  cloth  cost  is  one-tliird  of  the 
selling  price.  The  ratios  on  children's  clotliing  do  not  seem  to  be 
different  from  men's  clothing,  taken  as  a  w  hole. 

In  the  details  of  costs,  the  figures  showing  the  manufacturing 
cost  of  clothing — the  expenditures  for  material  and  for  conversion 
costs — are  of  particular  interest.  They  vary  less  for  tho  different 
classes  of  garments  tlian  the  other  elements  of  cost  and  show  for 
diiferent  types  of  establishments  a  fairly  constant  margin  of  about 
20  per  cent  from  which  selling  costs,  general  expenses,  and  profits 
must  be  taken.  The  following  tables  show  the  relative  importance 
of  cloth  and  material  cost,  on  the  basis  of  the  cost  of  the  product  as  it 
leaves  the  factory,  or  reaches  the  manufacturer  from  his  sliops,  or 
from  contractors.  Table  8  gives  data  for  all  establishments  investi- 
gated; Table  9  for  establishments  reporting  the  cost  of  cloth  used 
during  the  year. 


BEPORT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


863 


Table  8. — Cost  of  manufacturing  clothing,  1910,  factory  costs  (material,  direct  labor 
and  factory  expense) — Data  for  all  wholesale  establishments. 


[Items  of  cost  expressed  as  per  cents  of 

total  factorv  costs.] 

Items. 

Cheap 
(18  and 
under).! 

Me- 
dium 
($8  to 
$15).i 

High  grade  ($15 
and  over).* 

Spe- 
cialty. 

Chil- 
dren. 

Special 
order. 

Totals. 

Class  A.2 

CIas,3  B.« 

- 

Total    cost,  manufactured 
clothing 

100.0 

100.0 

100.0 

100.0 

100.0 

100.0 

100.0 

100.0 

Material  cost 

72.5 

67.0 

65.1 

58.9 

74.8 

67.7 

61.8 

65.9 

Manufacturing  cost: 

Direct  labor  ' 

25.9 
1.6 

29.2 
3.8 

28,9 
6.0 

34.4 

6.7 

16.3 

8.9 

28.8 
3.5 

32.7 
5.5 

29.2 

Factory  expense 

4.9 

Total 

27.6 

33.0 

34.9 

41.1 

25.2 

32.3 

38.2 

34.1 

»  For  average  price  of  garment  sold. 

*  These  are  two  classes  of  the  same  grade  of  clothing.  They  are  distinguished  not  so  much  by  selling 
price  as  by  the  relative  emphasis  on  cloth  and  material  cost  (class  A),  as  contrasted  with  workmanship 
and  the  consequent  labor  cost  (class  B).  ' 

»  This  entry  represents  direct  labor  where  the  manufacturer  has  his  own  shops;  otherwise  it  stands  lor  tha 
direct  labor  in  the  cutting  room  plus  the  amount  paid  to  contractors  for  making  up  the  garments. 

As  between  material  and  labor,  including  with  labor  overhead 
factory  expense,  the  former  absorbs  approximately  two-thirds  of  the 
factory  cost  of  clothing,  the  latter  one-third.  On  cheap  clothing 
material  is  most  significant,  accounting  for  nearly  three-fourths  of  the 
bare  factory  cost  of  making  garments. 

The  following:  table  shows,  in  addition  to  the  above  facts,  the 
importance  of  cloth: 

Table  9. — Cost  of  manufacturing  clothing,  1910,  factory  costs  (cloth,  trimmings,  direct 
labor  and  factory  expense) — Data  for  estahlishTnents  showing  separately  cost  of  cloth 
and  cost  of  trimmings. 


[Items  of  cost  expressed  as 

per  cents  of  total  factory  costs.] 

Items. 

Cheap 
($8  and 
under).' 

Me- 
dium 
($8  to 

$15).i 

• 

High  grade  ($15 
and  over).i 

Chil- 
dren. 

Special 
order. 

Total. 

Class  A.2 

Class  B.« 

Total  cost  manufactured  clothing 

100.0 

100.0 

100.0 

100.0      100.0 

100.0 

100.0 

Material  cost: 

Cloth 

56.7 
16.6 

45.8 
21.3 

42.1 

22.7 

.3 

34.9 

20.7 

.4 

43.3 

21.2 

.1 

45.5 

13.4 

.1 

44.2 

Trimmings 

20.8 

Freight* 

.2 

Total 

73.3 

67.1 

65.1 

56.0 

64.6 

59.0 

65  2 

Manufacturing  cost: 

Direct  labor* 

25.3 

1.4 

28.8 
4.1 

28.9 
6.0 

37.4 

6.6 

31.8 
3.6 

35.3 

5.7 

29  a 

Factory  expense 

5  0 

Total 

26.7 

32.9 

34.9 

44.0 

35.4 

41.0 

34  8 

»  For  average  price  of  garment  sold. 

«  These  are  two  classes  of  the  same  grade  of  clothing.  They  are  distinguished  not  so  much  bv  spiling 
price  Hshy  the  relative  emphasis  on  cloth  and  material  cost  (class  A),  as  contrasted  with  workinauiihip 
and  the  con.sequent  labor  cost  (class  B). 

*  The  data  is  not  shown  completely  under  this  head,  some  firms  charging  freight  to  general  expense,  others 
adding  it  to  tlie  cost  of  the  material. 

*  This  entry  represents  direct  labor  where  the  manufacturer  has  his  own  shops;  otherwise  it  stands  for  the 
direct  labor  in  the  cutting  room  plus  the  amount  paid  to  contractors  for  making  up  the  garments. 


864 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


As  the  above  table  indicates,  cloth  is  responsible  for  44  per  cent  of 
the  factory  cost  of  clothing;  other  materials  are  less  than  one-half 
as  important  as  cloth.  On  ehoap  clothing  the  cost  of  cloth  is  approxi- 
mately 57  per  cent  of  the  total  factory  cost. 

Attention  is  called  to  one  otherlai^ge  item  of  cost  to  the  clothmg 
manufacturer — that  of  marketing  his  products.  Examination  of 
Tables  6  and  7  shows  that  for  the  different  grades  of  clothing  the  cost 
of  selling  is  from  4  per  cent  to  7  per  cent.  This  is  for  regular  whole- 
sale clothing.  On  special-order  clothing  and  where  individual  gar- 
ments are  handled,* the  selling  cost  is  naturally  very  much  higher. 
The  same  is  also  true  of  such  clothing  specialties  as  are  not  sold  in 
large  lots.  It  will  be  observed,  further,  tnat  the  selling  cost  tends  to 
increase  with  the  grade  of  clothing  sold. 

The  high  cost  of  selling  clothing  is  due  to  the  fact  that  so  much  of 
it  is  sold  through  agents  receiving  commissions  or  salaries.  It  is  only 
where  most  of  the  selling  is  done  by  members  of  the  estabhshment 
that  the  cost  of  selling  is  reduced  to  a  small  fraction  of  the  price  of  the 
garments  handled. . 

In  concluding  this  analvsis  of  manufacturers*  costs,  it  is  well  to 
point  out  again  that  therels  no  basis  of  measuring  the  significance  of 
the  figures  for  profits  as  shown  here.  The  figures  can  not  be  related 
to  investment.  Satisfactory  data  on  this  point  could  not  have  been 
obtamed  without  great  difficulties,  if  at  all.  With  the  active  man- 
agement of  the  enterprises  in  the  hands  of  partners  or  officers  of  cor- 
porations, very  little  if  at  all  different  from  firms,  it  is  impossible  to 
distinguish  between  compensation  for  services  and  profits  available 
for  return  on  capital. 

ANALYSIS    OF    MANUFACTURERS*    COSTS    AS    REPORTED    FOR    SPECIMEN 

GARMENTS — MEN's   CLOTHING. 

The  information  summarized  above  on  the  basis  of  information  for 
B,  year's  business  is  satisfactory  as  regards  the  accuracy  of  the  data. 
It  is,  however,  difficult  to  reduce  in  terms  of  definite  priced  garments. 
"From,  the  data  supphed  for  individual  garments  a  tabulation  has  been 
made  showing  w£at  proportion  of  the  amount  paid  by  the  retailer 
for  any  suit  is  expended  on  cloth,  on  trimmings,  and  on  direct  labor 
(wages  or  contract  price). 

Attention  is  here  called  to  the  varying  character  of  the  entry 
in  the  table  for  direct  labor.  For  some  houses  it  represents  bare 
wages,  exclusive  of  the  cost  of  supervision,  rent,  and  other  expenses. 
For  others  it  stands  for  contract  price.  In  no  event  does  it  represent 
the  entire  conversion  cost.  The  figure  in  the  column  for  direct  labor 
must  be  used,  bearing  in  mind  its  Imitations.  With  tliis  reservation, 
it  is  a  valuable  indication  of  the  most  important  item  after  cloth 
entering  into  the  manufacture  of  clothing. 

The  detailed  table  printed  below  shows  such  costs  for  aU  grades  of 
garments,  these  being  arranged  according  to  then-  net  wholesale  sell- 
mg  price.  The  information  is  intended  as  a  supplement  to  the  data 
based  on  the  year's  business  showing  as  it  does  the  same  facts  in  a 
more  concrete  way. 

For  convenience  in  studying  the  detailed  tabulation,  a  brief  sum- 
mary of  it  is  placed  first.  In  this  table  the  average  wholesale  price 
is  shown  for  cheap  clothing,  medium  and  higher  grades  of  clothing. 


BEPOBT  OP  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


865 


and  an  estimated  retail  price,  assuming  the  latter  to  be  about  50 
per  cent  in  excess  of  the  wholesale  price.  The  elements  of  cost  are 
shown  in  absolute  amount,  and  again  as  percentages  of  the  selling 

Srice.  In  using  the  table  it  is  to  be  remembered  that  the  figures 
o  not  show  the  total  costs.  Overhead  manufacturing  costs,  selling, 
and  general  expense  are  here  omitted,  as  the  prime  purpose  of  the 
table  is  to  show  the  importance  of  cloth,  trimmings,  and  factory 
wages  (or  contract  price). 

Table  10. — Analysis  of  costs  of  typical  suits,  overcoats,  and  pants — Average  price  for 

various  grades. 


Type  of  garment  and  range 
of  net  wholesale  selling 
price. 


Suits: 

Under  18.... 

S8  to  $11.99.. 

112  to  $14.99. 

$15  to  $19.99. 
Overcoats: 

Under  $8 

$8  to  $11.99... 

$12  to  $14.99. 

$15  to  $19.99.. 
Pants: 

$2  to  $2.49... 

$2J)0  to  $2.99 , 

$3  to  $4 


Esti- 
matod 

retail 
price.i 


$10.00 
15.00 
20.00 
25.00 

10.00 
15.00 
20.00 
25.00 

3.50 
4.00 
5.00 


Whole- 
sale 
net 

price. 


$C.  48 
10.16 
13.48 
16.93 

7.17 

9.85 

13.46 

17.12 

2.25 
2.72 
3.40 


Cloth 
cost. 


$2.65 
3.80 
4.80 
5.67 

2.29 
2.84 
3.94 
5.28 

1.10 
1.50 
2.00 


Trim- 
mings 
cost. 


$1.18 
1.92 
2.42 
2.77 

1.73 
2.44 
3.37 
3.98 

.19 
.20 
.25 


Total 
mate- 
rial 
cost. 


$3.83 
5.72 
7.22 
8.44 

4.02 
5.28 
7.31 
9.26 

1.29 
1.70 
2.25 


Direct 
labor.2 


$1.55 
2.67 
3.51 
4.64 

1.63 
2.23 
3.47 
3.77 

.46 
.54 
.58 


rer  cent  of  wholesale  net 
price. 


Cloth 
cost. 


Trim- 
mings 
cost. 


40.9 
37.4 
35.6 
37.4 

3P9 
28.8 
29.3 
30.8 

48.9 
54.8 

58.8 


18.2 
18.9 
18.0 
16.4 

24.1 
24.8 
25.0 
23.2 

8.4 
7.3 
7.3 


Total 
mate- 
rial 
cost. 


59.1 
56.3 
53.6 
49.9 

56.1 
63.6 
54.3 
64.1 

57.3 
62.1 
66.2 


Direct 
labor. 


23.9 
26.3 
26.0 

27.4 

22.7 
22.6 
25.8 
22.0 

20.4 
19.5 
17.1 


1  Estimate  based  on  the  assumption  that  retail  prices  are  50  per  cent  above  wholesale  prices. 
«  This  entry  represents  direct  labor  where  the  manufacturer  has  his  own  shops;  otherwise  it  stands  for 
direct  labor  in  the  cutting  room  plus  the  amount  i)ald  to  contractors  for  making  up  the  garments. 

In  cheap  clothing  averaging  m  price  $6.50  at  wholesale  and  $10  at 
retail,  the  cloth  cost  is  41  per  cent,  the  trimming  cost  18  per  cent, 
the  total  material  cost  59  per  cent.  In  the  next  grade,  averaging 
about  $10  wholesale  and  $15  retail,  cloth  cost  is  37  per  cent,  trim- 
ming cost  19  per  cent.  In  garments  selling  for  $13.50  wholesale  and 
$20  retail,  cloth  cost  is  35  per  cent,  trimmings  cost  18  percent.  In 
high-grade  clothing,  selling  at  $17  wholesale  and  $25  retail,  cloth  cost 
is  one-third,  and  trimmings  one-sixth.  As  compared  with  cheap 
clothing,  the  material  cost  is  10  per  cent  less. 

These  results  are  on  average  figures.  It  is  of  interest  to  note  that 
in  clothing  sold  from  $9  and  upward  there  are  two  classes,  one  empha- 
sizing cloth  and  material,  the  other  the  less  tangible  quahties  of  gar- 
ments. Thus  on  garments  seUing  at  between  $9  and  $12  and  aver- 
aging about  $10.50,  one  class  shows  a  cloth  cost  of  41  per  cent  as 
against  29  for  the  other.  The  respective  material  costs  are  59  and 
60  per  cent.  On  the  grade  above — ^garments  selling  on  the  average 
for  $13.50 — the  cloth  cost  is  40  per  cent  in  one  group,  and  34  per  cent 
in  the  other.  The  material  costs  are,  respectively,  57  and  49  per 
cent.  The  interesting  feature  here  is  the  large  variation  in  cloth 
cost  for  suits  selhng  at  the  same  price.  This  phase  will  be  taken  up 
from  another  point  of  view  in  greater  detail. 

For  overcoats  and  pants  a  similar  table  has  been  constructed. 
The  interesting  point  to  be  observed  is  that  for  overcoats  the  cloth 


866 


KEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDFLB  K. 


EEPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOABD  OK  SCHEDULE  K. 


867 


cost  is  less  important  tlian  for  suits,  bein^  equal  to  30  per  cent  for 
all  grades.  On  the  other  hand,  the  material  cost  for  various  grades 
is  not  very  different  than  for  suits,  trimmings  being  very  much  more 
important  on  overcoats.  On  the  cheaper  grades  of  overcoats  woolen 
linmgs  are  used,  so  that  the  woolen  cost  is  higher  than  appeara  at 
fiist  sight.    On  higher-priced  overcoats  silk  linings  are  used. 

On  pants  the  cloth  cost  is  50  per  cent  of  tlie  sefling  price  on  cheap 
pants  and  mofe  on  higher  gracles.  Trimmings  are  of  slight  impor- 
tance, and  contain  no  woolen  materials. 

Another  view  of  the  material  summarized  above  may  be  had  from 
the  fuDer  and  more  detailed  analysis  of  the  data  as  presented  in  the 
following  table.  Here  all  tlie  information  for  specimen  garments 
selling  within  the  limits  of  $1  has  been  combined  and  averaged. 
This  method  of  treatment  affords  a  view  of  the  costs  for  all  grades 
of  garments,  arranged  in  order  of  their  net  wholesale  selling  price 
from  under  $5  to  $25.  Table  11  gives  the  averages  for  selling  price 
and  for  the  various  elements  of  cost.  A  column  is  here  added  snow- 
ing the  retail  selling  prices  corresponding  to  the  ascertained  whole- 
sale prices.  Tliis  is  based  on  an  assumption  that  retail  selling  prices 
are  50  per  cent  in  excess  of  the  retailers'  cost,  or  the  wholesale  price. 

Table  12  gives,  for  purposes  of  comparison,  the  details  of  cost 
expressed  as  percentages  of  the  net  wholesale  selling  price. 

Table  lla. — Analysis  of  cost  of  typical  »mta  for  different  arades  of  clothing — Average  mil- 

ing  price  and  costs — Summary  in  dollar  classes. 

lAnsasbd  in  order  of  net  seUioc  price  from  unfte  |S  to  «25  per  garment.] 


Bange  of  n»t  wbolesiile  selling 

.price. 


Under  $5 

Sato  15.99... 
•6  to  f  6.99.... 
•7  to  17.99-.-. 


tStot».99... 
99  to  19.99... 
SlOtoSIO.99. 
iU  to  111.99. 

$12  to  $12.99. 

$13toiia.99. 
S14toS14.99. 

S15  to  115.99. 
t16  to  $16.99. 
tl7totl7.99. 
S18toflK99. 
SI9to919J9. 


Net 

wholesale 
selling 
I^ice. 


$20  to  120.99 

$21  to  $21.99 

$22  to  $22.99 

$23  to  $23.99 

$24  to  $24.99 


SUMMART  OP  TOTAI.& 


tTnder  $fi 

$8  to  $11.99 

$12  to  $14.99.... 
$15  to  $19.99. . . . 
$ao  and  over  — 


St.  13 
6.64 

7.m 

8.40 

9.37 

10.30 

11.54 

12.44 
13.64 
14. 47 

15.31 
16.43 
17.32 

18.48 
19.52 

20.24 
21.50 
22.59 

«4.  lu 


0.48 
10. 16 
13.  4B 
16.  i» 
21.96 


Esti- 
mated 

retail 
pcice.t 


Total 

dOtllDOSt. 


fB.OO 

8.00 
10.00 
12.00 

13.00 
14.00 
16.00 
17.00 

19  00 

21.00 
22.00 


$1.56 
2.39 

2.m 

3.16 

3.37 
3.71 
3.77 
4.05 

4.SS 

4.97 
6.11 


23.00 

5.13 

2S.00 

5.73 

26.00 

6.70 

28.00 

6.13 

29.00 

6.M 

30.00 

7.90 

33,00 

7.31 

34.00 

8.42 

35.00 

9.02 

37.00 

8.11 

10.00 

2.65 

16.00 

3.80 

20.00 

4.80 

25.00 

5.67 

33.00 

8.14 

Trlm- 

minp^s 

cost. 


Total 
material 


80.03 

1.07 
1.26 
1.34 

1.67 
1.80 
1.95 
2.16 

2.34 

2.40 
2.52 

158 

2.88 
2.73 
2,88 
3.10 

3. 15 
2.94 
3.31 
3.11 

3.26 


Direct 
latiar 

OOBt.* 


82.21 

3.40 
3.91 
4.50 

4.94 
6.51 
5.72 
0.20 

6.69 
7.37 
7.63 

7.71 
8.61 
8.43 
9.01 
9.44 

11.06 
10.25 
11.75 
12. 13 

11.37 


Total  cost 
of  mate- 
rial and 
direct 
labor. 


1.18 

3.83 

1.92 

6.72 

2.42 

7.22 

2.77 

a  44 

3.14 

11.28 

$1.00 

1.40 
1.55 
1.79 

1.94 
2.41 
2.72 
3.17 

3.31 
3.60 
3.65 

4.30 
4.81 
4.91 
4.55 
6.00 

4.68 
^  w§ 
6.74 
4.87 
6.08 


1.55 
2.07 
3.51 
4.04 

5.11 


$3.21 
4.92 
5.46 
6.29 

6.88 
7.92 
8.44 
9.37 

10.00 

10.97 
11.28 

12.01 
13.42 

Ail*  «VV 

13.56 
14.60 

15.73 
15.24 
17.49 
17.00 
17. 4» 


5.3S 

8.39 
10.73 
13.08 
16.39 


1  Estimate  based  on  the  assumption  that  retail  prices  are  50  per  cent  above  wholesale  price. 
«  This  entry  represents  dirett  labor  where  the  manufatturer  has  his  own  shops;  otlierwise  it  stMids  for 
tbe  direct  labor  in  the  cutting  room  phxs  the  amount  paid  to  contractors  for  maMng  up  the  garments. 


) 


Table  lib. — Analysis  of  costs  of  typical  overcoats  for  different  grades  of  clothing — Aver- 
age  selling  price  ami  costs — Summary  in  dollar  classes. 

[Arranged  In  order  of  net  selling  price  from  $6  to  over  $25  per  garment.] 


Range  of  net  wholesale  selling 
price. 


$6  to  $6.99. 

$7  to  $7.99 

$8  to  $8.99 

$9  to  $9.99 

$10  to  $10.99 

$11  to  $11.99 

$12  to  $12.99 

$13  to  $13.99 

$14  to  $14.99 

$15  to  $15.99 

$16  to  $16.99 

$18  to  $18.99 

$19  to  $19.99 

$22  to  $22.99 

$23  to  $23.99 

$25  and  over 

SUMMARY  OF  TOTALS. 

Under  $8 

i8  to  $11.99 

$12  to  $14.99 

$15  to  $19.99 

320  and  over 


Net 
wholesale 

selling 
price. 


$6.73 
7.62 

8.64 

9.39 

10.26 

11.35 

12.42 
13.8,5 
14.69 

15.01 
16.42 
18.30 
19. 4G 

22.76 
23.25 
34.41 


7.17 

9.85 

13. 46 

17.12 

20.80 


Esti- 
mated 

retail 
price.i 


Total 
cloth 
cost. 


$10.50 
12.00 

13.00 
14.25 
16.00 
17.00 

19.00 
21.00 
22.50 

23.00 
25.25 

28.00 
30.00 

35.00 
35.00 
51.50 


10.00 
15.00 
20.00 
25.00 
40.00 


Trim- 
mings 
cost. 


$2.05 
2.54 

2.56 
2.75 
3.10 
2.90 

3.39 
•4.01 

4.71 

3.85 
5.22 
6.64 
6.88 

7.92 

7v64 

11.52 


2.29 
2.84 
3.94 
5.28 
9.02 


$1.55 
1.90 

1.98 
2.61 
2.29 
2.80 

3.29 
2.9a 
3.84 

3.82 
3.80 
4.21 
4.15 

4.82 
6.35 
9.50 


1,73 
2.44 
3.37 
3.98 
6.89 


Total 

material 

cost. 


Direct 
labor 
cost.« 


$3.60 
4.-44 

4.54 
5.36 
5.39 
5.70 

6.68 
6.91 
8.55 

7.67 

9.02 

9.85 

11.03 

12.74 
1.3.99 
21.02 


4.02 
5.28 
7.31 
9.26 
15.91 


Total 
cost  of 
material 
and 
direct 
labor. 


$1.28 
1,99 

1.45 
2.15 
2.12 
3.35 

8,51 
3.55 
3.34 

3.38 
3.93 
4.05 
2.86 

4.56 
3.08 
3.72 


1.63 
2.23 
3.47 
3.77 
3.79 


$4.88 
6.43 

5.99 

7.51 
7.51 
9.05 

10.19 
10.46 
11.89 

11.05 
12.95 
13.91 
13.89 

17.30 
17.07 
24-74 


5.65 

7.51 

10.78 

13.03 

19.70 


»  Estimate  based  on  the  assumption  that  retail  prices  are  50  per  cent  above  wholesale  price. 
'  This  entry  represents  direct  labor  where  the  manufacturer  has  his  own  shops;  otherwise  it  stands  for 
the  direct  labor  in  the  cutting  room  plus  the  amount  paid  to  contractors  for  making  up  the  garments. 

Table  11c. — Analysis  of  costs  of  typical  pants  for  different  grades  of  clothing — Average 

selling  price  and  costs — Summary  in  dollar  classes. 

[Arranged  in  order  of  net  selling  price  firom  under  $2  to  over  $4  jper  garment.) 


Range  of  net  wholesale  selling 
price. 


Under  $2. . . 
$2  to $2.49... 
$2.50  to  $2.99 
$3  to  $3.99... 
Over  $4 


Net 

wholesale 

selling 

price. 


$1.58 
2.15 
2.72 
3.40 
4.55 


Esti- 
mated 

retail 
price.i 


$2.50 
3.50 
4.00 
5.50 
7.00 


Total 
cloth 
cost. 


$0.78 
1.10 
1.49 
2.00 
2.68 


Trim- 
mings 
cost. 


$0.14 
.19 
.20 
.25 
.23 


Total 

material 

cost. 


$0.92 
1.29 
1.69 
2.25 
2.91 


Direct 

labor 

cost.« 


$0.41 
.45 
.53 

.58 
.65 


Total 
cost  of 
material 
and 
direct 
labor. 


$1.33 
1.74 
2.22 
2.83 
3. 50 


'  Estimate  based  on  the  assumption  that  retail  prices  are  50  per  cent  above  wholesale  price. 
s  This  entry  represents  direct  labor  where  the  manufacturer  has  his  own  shops;  otherwise  it  stands  for 
the  direct  labor  in  the  cutting  room  plus  the  amount  i>aid  to  contractors  for  making  up  the  garments. 

Attention  is  called  to  the  parallel  series  formed  by  the  ascending 
averages,  both  for  net  selling  prices  and  for  cloth  costs,  showing  the 
importance  of  cloth  in  the  price  of  the  garment. 


868 


BEPORT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


The  facts  may  be  studied  more  readily  in  the  following  table  of 

percentages: 

Table  12a.— Anali/sis  ofemts  of  ty^ml  suits  for  diferml  grmks  oj  clothing— Summary 

in  dollar  cimses. 


[Details  off 


■•resaed  as  percentages,  of  net  selling  price.) 


Range  of  net  wholesale  selling  iirice. 


■whole- 
sale 
Klitog 


VI    ,    ..  I  Percent. 

Under  ?5 i      loo.oo 

15  to  15.99 100.00 

l6toiti.9[» I      100.00 

f 7  to  17.99 100, 00 


18  to  18.99... 

19  to  19.99. . . 

Il0to.?10.99. 
fil  to  $11.99. 


512  to  112.99. 

513  to  $13.99. 
fl4  to  114.99. 


115  to  S15.99 

fl6to$lti.99 

117  to  II  7.99 

118  to  $18.99 

119  to  119.9*^ 100. 00 


100.00 

KKXOO 
100.00 
100.00 

100.00 
100. 00 
100.00 

100.00 
KW.OO 
100.00 
100.00 


Total 
cloth 

cost. 


120  to  120.99. 
$21  to  121.99. 

$22  to  $22.99. 
$23  to  $23.99. 
S24  to  $24.99. 


SUMMARY  OP  TOTALS. 

Under  $S , 

$8  to  $11.99 

$12  to  $14.99 

$15  to $19.99.... 

$20  and  over 


100.00 
100. 00 
1«).  00 
100. 00 
100.00 


100.00 
100.00 
100.00 
100.00 

100.00 


Per  cent. 
38.25 
42.30 
39.91 
41.63 

39.83 
39.59 
36.60 
35.09 

34.43 
36.44 
35.29 

33.53 
34.87 
32. 91 
33.17 
32.48 

39.03 
34.00 
37.25 
38.58 
33.58 


40.89 
37.40 
35.60 
37.40 
37.07 


Trlm- 
mhigs 

cost. 


Total 

material 

cost. 


Per  cent. 
15.25 
18.93 
18.97 
17.65 

18.67 
19. 21 
18.93 
18.63 

18.81 

•    17.59 

17.41 

16.86 
17.53 
15.76 
16.59 
15.88 

15.56 
13.67 
14.73 
13.30 
13.49 


18.21 
18.89 
17.96 
16.36 
14.29 


Per  cent. 
53.51 
61.23 

58.88 
59.28 

58.39 
58.80 
55.53 
63.72 

53.76 
54.03 
52.70 

50.30 
54.20 

48.67 
48.76 
48.36 

54.59 
47.07 
51.99 
51.88 
47.07 


69.10 
5<>.29 
53.55 
49.85 
51.36 


Direct 

labor 

eost.» 


Per  cent. 
24.21 
25.84 
23.34 
23.68 

22.93 
25.72 
26.41 
27.46 

26.61 
26.39 
26.20 

28.10 
29.27 
28.35 
24.62 
25.92 

23.12 
23.21 
25.39 
20.82 
26.17 


23.92 
26.27 
26.04 
27.41 
23.27 


Total 

cost  of 

material 

direct 
labor. 


Per  cent, 

77.72 
87.07 
82.22 
82.87 

81.32 
84.52 
81.94 
81.19 

80.38 
80.42 
77.90 

78.49 
81.67 
77.02 
73.38 
74.28 

77.71 
70.88 
77.38 
72.71 
72.25 


83.02 
82.57 
79.60 
77.26 
74.63 


*  Ttiis  entry  represents  derect  labor  where  the  manufacturer  has  his  own  snops;  otherwise  It  stands  for 
the  direct  labor  m  the  cuitmg  room  plus  the  amount  paid  to  contractors  for  making  up  the  garments. 


^■■tf  iglilliftaiSWMgW 


BEPOET  OF  TAKIFF  BOAED  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


869 


Table  12b. — Analysis  of  costs  of  typical  overcoats  Jor  different  grades  of  clothing — 

Summary  in  dollar  classes. 

fDetails  of  cost  expressed  as  percentages  of  net  selling  price.) 


Range- of  net  wholesale  seUing  price. 


$6  to  $6.99 

$7  to  $7.99 

$8lo$8.99 

$9  to  $9.99 

$10to$10.99 

$11  to  111.99 

tl2  to  $12.99 

$13  to  $13.99 

114  to  $14.99 -....,... 

$15  to  $15.99 

$16  to  $16.99 

$18  to  $18.99 

$19  to  $19.99 

$22  to  $22.99 

$23  to  $23.99 

$25  and  over 

SUMMARY  OF  TOTALS. 

Under  S3 

$8  10  $11.99 

$12  to  $14.99 

$15  to  $19.99 

$20  and  over 


Net 
whole- 
sale 
selling 
price. 


Per  cent. 
100.00 
100.00 

100.00 

100.00 
100.00 
100.00 

100.00 

lOO.OO 
100.00 

100.00 
100.00 
100.00 
100.00 

100.00 
100.00 
100.00 


100.00 
100.00 
100.00 
100.00 
100.00 


Total 
cloth 
cost. 


Percent. 
30.46 
33.33 

29.63 
2S.29 
30.21 
25.54 

27.29 
28.95 
32.07 

25.64 
31.78 
30.32 
35.35 

34.81 
32.86 
33.47 


31.94 
28.83 
29.27 
30.84 
33.65 


Trim- 
mings 
cost. 


Per  cent. 
23.03 
24.93 

22.92 
27.79 
22.31 
24.67 

26.49 
20.93 
26.14 

2.5.44 
23.14 
22.63 
21.32 

21.18 
27.31 
27.60 


24.12 
24.77 
25.03 
23.24 
25.70 


Total 

material 
cost. 


Per  cent. 
63. 49 

58.26 

52.55 
57.08 
52.53 
50.21 

53.78 
49.89 
58.22 

51.09 
54.93 
52.96 
66.67 

56.00 
60.17 
61.08 


56.06 
53.60 
54.31 
54.08 
59.36 


Direct 
labor 
cost.  1 


Per  cent. 
19.02 
26.12 

16.78 
22.89 
20.66 
29.51 

28.25 
25.63 
22.72 

22.51 
23.93 
21.77 
14.69 

20.04 
13.24 
10.81 


22.73 
22.63 
25.78 
22.02 
14.14 


Total 
cost  of 
material 
and  di- 
rect la- 
bor. 


Per  cent. 
72.51 
84.38 

69.33 
79.97 
73.19 
79.73 

82.03 
75.62 
80.94 

73.61 
78.86 
74.73 
71.37 

76.04 
73.41 
71.  S9 


78.80 
76.24 
80.09 
76.10 
73.60 


1  This  entry  represents  direct  labor  where  the  manufacturer  has  his  own  shops;  otherwise  it  stands  for 
the  direct  labor  in  the  cutting  room  plus  the  amount  paid  to  contractors  for  making  up  the  garments. 

Table  12c. — Analysis  of  cost  of  tyjmal  pants  for  different  grades  of  clothing—Summary 

in  dollar  classes. 

[Details  of  cost  expressed  as  percentages  of  net  selling  price.] 


Range  of  net  wholesale  selling  price. 


Net 

wholesale 

selling 

price. 


Under  $2. . 

$2  to  $2.40. 
$2.50  to  S3. 
$3  to  $3.99. 
Over  $4... 


Per  cent. 
100.00 
100.00 
100.00 
100.00 
100.00 


Total 
Cloth 
cost. 


Per  cent. 
49.38 
5L16 
54  78 

58. 82 

Sa90 


Trim- 
mings 
cost. 


Per  cent. 
8,86 
a  84 
7.35 
7.35 
5.05 


Total 

material 

cost. 


Per  cent. 
68.23 
60.00 
62.13 
66.17 
63.95 


Direct 
labor 
cost. I 


Per  cent. 
25.94 
20  93 
19.48 
17.06 
14.28 


Total 

cost  of 

material 

and  direct 

labor. 


Per  cent. 
84.17 
80.93 
8L61 
83.23 
78.24 


1  This  entry  represpnts  direct  labor  where  the  manufacturer  has  his  own  shops;  otherwise  it  stands  for 
the  direct  labor  in  the  cutting  room  plus  the  amount  paid  to  contractors  for  making  up  the  garments. 

It  will  be  observed  that  as  the  selling  prices  increase  there  is  a 
gradual  decline  in  the  percentage  expended  for  cloth,  emphasizing 
the  general  observation  made  before  that  cloth  is  more  important  an 
element  of  cost  in  popular  gi-ades  of  clothing  than  in  the  higher 
grades,  although  in  all  grades  having  a  wide  sale  cloth  is  the  largest 
element  of  cost. 

The  cost  of  cloth  and  material  absorb  a  diminishing  percentage  of 
the  selling  price  of  garments  as  higher  grades  of  clothing  are  reached. 
Nevertheless  the  cost  of  cloth  is  still  a  very  largo  factor,  if  not  the 
determining  one  in  the  price  of  higher-grade  clothing.  This  may  be 
seen  by  taking  the  difference  in  price  and  in  costs  for  various  grades 
of  clothing,  and  noting  the  percentage  of  the  increase  in  price  which 
is  absorbed  in  cloth  and  in  trimming  and  in  direct  labor. 

S2080''— H.  Doc.  342,  62-2.  vol  2 ^17 


870 


BEFORT  OF  TAEIFF  BOABI>  OK  SCHEDULE  K. 


Table  13. — I>%jferenc€  in  selling  price  arid  in  items  of  cost/or  different  grades  qf  suits. 

(«)  AMOUNT. 


Avwage  prices  for  grades  of  clotMng  com- 
piiml. 

Esti- 
mated 

retail 
selling 
prtceJ 

Net 

wholesale 

selfcng 

price. 

Total 
cloth 
cost. 

Trim- 
mings 
cost. 

Total 

material 

cost. 

Direct 
labor.' 

16.48  toSlO.lfi 

15,00 
&00 
£.00 

13  68 
3.32 
3.45 

fl.l5 
.87 

•a  74 

.60 

35 

$1.89 
1.50 
1.22 

11. 13 

.84 

LIS 

1! 0.14)  toll 3.48 

113.48  to  tie.93 

(0)  PER  CENT. 


•6.48  to  $10.16... 
110.16  to  $13.48.. 
IIS'48  to  $16.93.. 


100.00 
100.00 
100.00 


3L25 
30.12 
25.21 


20.11 
15.06 
10.14 


51.36 
46.18 
35.36 


90.49 
25.30 
32.75 


i  Estimate  based  on  the  assumption  that  retail  prioe<s  are  50  percent  above  wholesale  price. 
»  This  entry  represents  direct  iatwr  where  the  manufacturer  has  his  own  shops;  otherwise  It  stands  tot 
am  direct  labor  in  the  catting  roc«n  plus  the  aiaount  paid  to  contractors  for  making  up  thje  garments. 

The  detailed  information  underlying  the  above  summaries  and 
discussion  is  made  available  in  the  following  table  embodjong  the 
information  for  cloth  cost,  trimming  cost,  and  direct  labor  (or  con- 
tract price).  This  table  is  for  specimen  garments,  for  which  costs 
were  obtained  from  wholesale  clothiers.  The  data  contained  herein 
are  particularly  significant  as  showing  the  variation  of  costs  for  cloth, 
trimming,  and  labor  in  garments  selling  at  the  same  price. 

Table  lia.—ATmiifds  cj  costs  of  typical  suits— iSeUing  price  and  details  of  costs. 

[Arranged  in  order  of  net  selling  price.] 


Range  of  net  whole- 
sale selling  prkc. 


Under  85 

IS  to  $5.99 

$6  to  $6.99... 


Bet 

cr- 

enoe 

num- 


17  to  $7.90. 


$8to$8.1i9. 


1 
2 

3 
4 

5 
6 

7 
8 
9 

10 

11 

12 

13 

14 

15 
16 
17 
18 
19 
20 

21  ■ 

22 

Zi 

24 
25 


W'holcsnlo  soil- 
ing prioB.i 


Gross. 


$.1. 75 
4.50 

5.50 
6.00 
6.00 
6.50 

7.00 
7.00 
7.00 
7.00 
6.75 
6.75 
6.95 
7.50 

7.50 
8.00 
7.50 

8.50 
8.50 

9.00 
9.00 
8.50 
8.  au 
8.55  I 


A^CTL'w 


$.X75 
4S0 

5.58 

5-58 

6.36 
6.37 
6.51 
6.51 
6.75 
6.75 
6.90 
6.97 

7.35 
7.44 
7.50 

7.65 
7.72 
7.90 

8.37 
8.37 
8.60 
8.50 
8.55 


Cloth 

cost  j»er 
yard 
net. 


$0.45 

.65 

.67 
.75 
.7875 

.90 

.67 
.75 
.71 

.775 
.925 
.67 

.85 

.90 
1.025 

.875 
1.08 

.84 

.814 
1.025 

.85 
1.175 
1.08 


Yards 

per 

suit. 


3.25 
3.25 

3.25 

3.375 
3.375 
3.375 

3. 375 
3.375 
3.375 
3.375 
3.375 
3.375 
3.375 
3.64 

3.50 

3.375 

3.375 

3.31 

3.375 

3.50 

3.50 
3.  .375 
3.50 

3.375 


Total 
clotk 
cost. 


$1.46 
1.69 

2.11 
2.27 
2.52 
2.66 

3,04 
2.89 
2.27 
2.52 
2.40 
2.C2 
3.12 
2. 37 

2.98 

3.(M 
3.4i> 
2.90 
3.65 
2.94 

2.85 
3.4Q 
2.9« 
3.97 
3.58 


Trim- 
mings 
cost. 


$0.58 
.69 

1.00 
1.13 
1.13 
1.03 

1.10 
1.10 
1.13 
1.13 
1.44 
1.44 
1.10 
1.64 

1.35 
1.30 
1.13 
1.41 
1.25 
1.00 

1.75 
1.50 
1.72 
1.25 
1.62 


Total 
mate- 
rial 
cost. 


$2.04 
2.38 

3.11 
3.40 

3.69 

4.14 

3.99 
3.40 
3.65 
3.84 
4.06 
4.22 
4.01 

4.33 
4,34 

4.31 
4.90 
4.54 

4.60 
4.9*1 
4.70 
5.22 
6.20  I 


Direct 

labor 

cost.* 


Total 
cost  of 
mate- 
rial and 
direct 
labor. 


$0.95 
1.05 

1.26 
1.56 
1.56 
1.47 

1.63 
1.63 
1.56 
1.56 
1.26 
1.38 
1.59 
1.82 

1.85 

i.m 
i.co 

1.33 
1.93 
2.24 

mm  ^9 

1.S6 
2.19 
1.82 
1.56 


$2.99 
3.43 

4.37 
4.96 
5.21 
5.16 

5.77 
6.62 
4.96 
5.21 
5.10 
5.44 
5.81 
5.83 

6.18 
6.02 
6.28 
5. 64 
6.83 
6.78 

6.86 
6.82 
6.89 
7.04 
6.76 


\  The  corrsspondlng  retail  price  may  be  estinmted  by  adding  50  per  cent  to  the  wholesale  price 
•  This  entry  represents  direct  labor  where  the  nianiifacturer  ha«  his  own  shops;  otherAvise  it  stands  far 
the  direct  labor  in  the  cutting  room  plus  tb©  amount  paid  to  contracUws  for  maSig  up  the  gannSST 


■m 


BKPOBT  OF  TAEIFF  BOAED  ON  SCHEDTn^  K. 


871 


Table  14a. — Analysis  of  costs  of  typical  smts — Selling  price  and  details  of  costs. — 

Continued. 


Range  of  net  whole- 
sale selling  price. 


IB  to  $9.99. 


no  to  110.99. 


Ill  to  $11.99. 


tl2  to  $12.99. 


tl3  to  $13.99. 


Wholes 

ale  sell- 

Total 

Ref- 
er- 

ing price. 

Cloth 
cost  per 

yard 

net. 

Yards 
per 

Total 
cloth 

Trim- 
niings 

Total 
mate- 

Direct 
labor 

cost  of 

inate- 

ence 

rtA.!  ftTtd 

num- 
ber. 

Gross. 

Net. 

suit. 

cosL 

cost. 

rial 
cost. 

cost. 

direct 
labor. 

26 

$9.00 

$9.00 

$1.23 

3.375 

$4.32 

$1.44 

$5.70 

$1.43 

$7.19 

27 

10.00 

9.08 

1.26 

3.  .375 

4.25 

1.65 

5.90 

"^.25 

8.15 

28 

10.00 

9.18 

.91 

3.375 

3.07 

1.70 

4.77 

2.59 

7.26 

29 

10.00 

9.18 

1.057 

3.375 

3.57 

1.70 

5.27 

2.59 

7.  £3 

30 

10.00* 

9.18 

1.057 

3.375 

3.57 

1.70 

5.27 

2.59 

7.  SO 

31 

10.00 

9.18 

1.08 

3.375 

3.65 

1.70 

5.35 

2.59 

7.94 

$2 

10.00 

9.18 

1.17 

3.375 

3.95 

1.70 

6.C5 

2.59 

8.24 

33 

10.00 

9.25 

1.10 

3.50 

3.86 

1.75 

5.61 

2.75 

8.36 

24 

10.00 

9.30 

.81 

3.50 

2.83 

2.30 

6.13 

2.40 

7.53 

35 

10.00 

9.30 

.90 

3.025 

3.26 

1.82 

6.08 

2.37 

7.45 

36 

10.00 

9.30 

.95 

3.50 

3.33 

1.60 

4.93 

2.25 

7.18 

37 

10.00 

9.30 

.995 

3.50 

3.48 

1.80 

6.28 

2.49 

7.77 

38 

10.00 

9.30 

1.00 

3.50 

3.50 

2.08 

5.58 

2.22 

7.80 

39 

10.00 

9.30 

1.115 

3.50 

3.90 

1.6S 

5.48 

2.50 

7.98 

40 

10.00 

9.30 

1.12 

3.375 

3.78 

1.53 

6.31 

2.39 

7.70 

41 

10.00 

9.30 

1.35 

3.375 

4.56 

1.53 

6.C9 

2.39 

8.48 

42 

10.00 

9. 40 

1.08 

3.50 

3.78 

2.02 

6.80 

2.66 

8.46 

43 

10.50 

9.53 

1.30 

3.375 

4.39 

1.65 

6.04 

2.26 

8.30 

44 

10.50 

9.74 

1.0125 

3. 66 

3.71 

2.12 

6.83 

2.43 

8.26 

45 

10.50 

9.77 

1.05 

3.18 

3.34 

1.90 

6.24 

2.45 

7.69 

46 

10.00 

9.80 

1.25 

3.60 

4.38 

1.75 

6.13 

2.30 

8.43 

47 

10.50 

9.96 

.90 

3.625 

3.26 

2.39 

5.65 

2.67 

8.32 

43 

10.00 

10.00 

1.00 

3.50 

3.50 

1.98 

5.48 

2.88 

8.36 

49 

10.00 

10.00 

1.50 

3.375 

5.06 

1.35 

6.41 

2.08 

8.49 

60 

10.50 

10.08 

.90 

3.50 

3.15 

2.00 

6.15 

2.68 

7.83 

51 

11.00 

10.09 

1.215 

3.375 

4.10 

1.85 

5.95 

2.59 

8.54 

52 

11.00 

10.09 

1.25 

3.375 

4.22 

1.85 

6.07 

2.59 

8.C6 

63 

11.00 

10.09 

1.26 

3.375 

4.25 

1.85 

6.10 

2.59 

8.09 

64 

11.  CO 

10.23 

.925 

3.625 

3.35 

2.57 

6.92 

3.37 

9.29 

65 

11.00 

10.67 

.85 

3.625 

3.08 

2.03 

6.11 

3.03 

8.14 

£6 

11.50 

10.69 

.875 

3.50 

3.06 

2.00 

6.06 

2.55 

7.01 

67 

11.50 

10.70 

1.06 

3.625 

3.84 

1.84 

5.68 

3.12 

8.80 

68 

11.50 

10.70 

1.10 

3.50 

3.85 

2.13 

5.98 

2.42 

8.40 

69 

12.00 

11.16 

1.12 

3.50 

3.92 

2.20 

6.12 

3.04 

9.16 

60 

12.00 

11.16 

1.25 

3.50 

4.38 

1.80 

6.18 

2.60 

8.78 

61 

12.50 

11.38 

.80 

3.50 

2.80 

2.37 

5.17 

4.34 

9.51 

C2 

12.00 

11.40 

.90 

3.625 

3.26 

2.25 

5.51 

3.28 

8.79 

63 

12.50 

11.47 

1.33 

3.375 

4.49 

2.00 

6.49 

3.04 

9.53 

64 

12.50 

11.47 

1.43 

3.375 

4.83 

2.00 

6.83 

3.04 

9.87 

65 

12.50 

11.47 

1.48 

3.375 

5.00 

2.00 

7.00 

3.04 

10.04 

66 

12.50 

11.47 

1.60 

3.375 

5.40 

2.00 

7.40 

3.04 

10.44 

67 

11.50 

11.50 

1.25 

3.50 

4.38 

2.0G 

6.44 

3.31 

9.75 

68 

12.50 

11.60 

1.26 

3.66 

4.62 

2.28 

6.90 

3.03 

9.93 

69 

12.50 

11.62 

.95 

3.50 

3.33 

2.36 

6.69 

2.95 

8.04 

70 

12.50 

11.63 

1.35 

3.50 

4.73 

2.08 

6.81 

2.65 

9.46 

71 

12.50 

11.63 

1.42 

3.50 

4.97 

1.64 

6.61 

2.50 

9.11 

72 

12.50 

11.66 

.78 

3.65 

2.85 

2.26 

5.11 

3.24 

8.35 

73 

12.50 

11.06 

.80 

3.65 

2.92 

2.20 

5.18 

3.24 

8.42 

74 

12.50 

11.82 

.91 

3.50 

3.19 

2.26 

5.45 

2.87 

8.32 

75 

13.00 

11.8:? 

l.CO 

3. 025 

3.63 

2.25 

5.88 

4.86 

10.74 

76 

12.50 

11.85 

1.20 

3.625 

4.35 

2.59 

6.94 

2.92 

9. 80 

77 

13.00 

12.08 

.89 

3.50 

3.12 

2.57 

5.69 

3.  GO 

9.29 

78 

13.00 

12.09 

1.33 

3.50 

4.66 

2.69 

7.35 

3.25 

10.60 

79 

12.50 

12.13 

1.12 

3.625 

4.06 

2.03 

6.09 

3.18 

9.27 

80 

12.50 

12.25 

1.75 

3.50 

6.13 

2.25 

8.38 

2.80 

11.18 

81 

13.50 

12.39 

1.63 

3.375 

5.49 

2.15 

7.64 

3.23 

10.87 

82 

13.50 

12.39 

1.78 

3.375 

6.01 

2.15 

8.16 

3.23 

11.39 

83 

13.50 

12.49 

1.28 

3.50 

4.48 

2.05 

6.53 

3.13 

9.  GO 

84 

13.50 

12.53 

1.40 

3.06 

5.12 

2.36 

7.48 

3.24 

10.72 

85 

13.  .50 

12.54 

.96 

3.60 

3.46 

2.30 

5.82 

3.54 

9.30 

86 

13.50 

12.55 

.925 

3.42 

3.16 

2.57 

5.73 

3.73 

9.46 

87 

13.50 

12.55 

1.13 

3.12 

3.86 

2.57 

6.43 

3.72 

10.15 

88 

13.50 

12.56 

1.125 

3.18 

3.58 

2.42 

6.00 

3.40 

9.40 

89 

13.50 

12.56 

1.23 

3.625 

4.46 

2.12 

6. 68 

3.01 

9.59 

90 

13.50 

12.60 

1.00 

3.65 

3.65 

2.32 

5.07 

3.24 

9.21 

91 

13.50 

12.83 

1.10 

3.G25 

3.99 

2.55 

6.54 

3.40 

9.94 

92 

14.00 

13.02 

1-50 

3.50 

6.25 

2.00 

7.25 

2.90 

10.15 

93 

14.00 

13.06 

1.08 

3.  GO 

3.89 

2.32 

6.21 

3.24 

9.45 

94 

14.50 

13.48 

1.195 

3.42 

4.08 

2.57 

6.C5 

3.72 

10.37 

95 

13.48 

13.48 

1.195 

3.42 

4. 08 

2.57 

6.€»5 

4.12 

10.77 

96 

13.48 

13.48 

1.35 

3.42 

4.62 

2.57 

7.19 

4.12 

11.31 

97 

14.50 

13.48 

1.45 

3.60 

6.08 

2.13 

7.21 

3.25 

10.46 

98 

13.49 

13.49 

1.29 

3.42 

4.41 

2.57 

6.98 

4.12 

11.10 

i 


872 


BEPOET  OF  TAKIFF  BOAEB  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


Table  14a. — Analyms  of  costs  of  typical  suits — Selling  price  and  details  of  costs — 

CoBtinued. 


Wholesale  sell- 

*. 

% 

Total 

Range  of  net  whole- 

Eef- 
er- 

enc© 
num- 

ing prioe. 

Cloth 

DORt  per 

yard 

net. 

Yards 

per 

suit. 

Total 
cloth 
cost. 

Trim- 
mings 
cost. 

Total 
mate- 
rial 
cost. 

Direct 
labor 
cost. 

cost  of 
mate- 

sala selling  price. 

rial  and 
direct 

ber. 

Gross. 

Net. 

lal)or. 

|13totl3.99  ..♦ 

99 

$15.00 

$13.65 

$1,125 

3.625 

$1.08 

$2.25 

$6.33 

$4.86 

$11.19 

100 

15.00 

13.76 

1.62 

3.375 

5.47 

2.40 

7.87 

3.31 

11.18 

101 

15.00 

13.76 

1.80 

3.375 

6.06 

2.40 

8.48 

3.31 

11.79 

102 

15.00 

13.92 

1.67 

3.66 

6.12 

2.37 

8.63 

3.69 

12.22 

103 

L5.00 

13.95 

1.35 

3.625 

4.90 

7.27 

4.06 

11.33 

IM 

15.00 

13.95 

1.42 

3.625 

5.15 

3.U 

8.32 

3.25 

11.57 

105 

15.00 

13.95 

1.43 

3.42 

4.89 

2.57 

7.46 

3.73 

11.19 

106 

1.5.00 

13.95 

1.61 

3.50 

6.28 

2.40 

7.(V8 

3.49 

11.17 

107 

15.00 

13.95 

1.75 

3.50 

6.13 

1.68 

7.81 

2.50 

10.31 

Ill  tOfctH.W 

108 

109 

14.00 
15.00 

14.00 
14.02 

1.45 
1..33 

3.60 
3.42 

6-08 
4.55 

2.29 
2.57 

7.37 
7.12 

3.77 
3.72 

11.14 

10.84 

no 

14.50 

14.07 

1.40 

3.625 

5.08 

2.31 

7.39 

3.38 

10. 77 

111 

15.00 

14.25 

1.20 

3.625 

4.35 

2.75 

7.10 

4.00 

11.10 

112 

16.50 

14.35 

1.58 

3.42 

6.38 

2.67 

7.95 

3.72 

11.67 

113 

15.50 

14.41 

1.29 

3.42 

4.41 

2.57 

6.98 

4.12 

11.10 

114 

15.50 

14.41 

1.53 

3. 625 

5.55 

3.01 

8.56 

3.15 

11.71 

115 

15.50 

14. 42 

1.49 

3.50 

5.22 

2.22 

7.44 

3.05 

10.49 

116 

15.00 

14. 70 

2.00 

3.50 

7.00 

2.70 

9.70 

3.05 

12.75 

117 

16.00 

14.86 

1.06 

3.66 

3.89 

2.« 

6.43 

4.09 

10.53 

lis 

16.00 

14.86 

1.25 

3.625 

4.53 

2.42 

6.95 

4.38 

11.33 

119 

16.00 

14.88 

1.51 

3.42 

5.16 

2.57 

7.73 

3.72 

11.45 

120 

16.00 

14.88 

1.80 

3.50 

6.30 

2.25 

8.55 

3.30 

11.86 

115  to  115.99 

121 

16.50 

15.01 

1.28 

3.50 

4.48 

2.59 

7.07 

4.49 

ii.5e 

122 

16.. 50 

15.01 

1.75 

3.50 

6.13 

2.50 

8.  ai 

5.0} 

13.66 

123 

16.50 

15.14 

1.43 

3.42 

4.89 

2.57 

7.46 

3.72 

11.18 

124 

15.25 

15.25 

1.51 

3.42 

6.16 

2.52 
2.10 

7.73 

4.12 

11.85 

125 

16.50 

15.31 

1.40 

3.625 

6.08 

7.18 

4.12 

11.30 

126 

16.50 

1.5.31 

1.85 

3.66 

6.77 

2.55 

9.32 

3.84 

13. 16 

127 

16.50 

15.34 

1.38 

3.625 

4.98 

2.70 

7.08 

6.47 

1.3. 15 

128 

16. 50 

15.38 

1.40 

3.42 

4.79 

2.57 

7.36 

4.94 

12.30 

129 

16.  SO 

15.39 

1.32 

3.60 

4.7S 

2.77 

7.55 

3.74 

11.29 

130 

16.50 

15.61 

1.32 

3.50 

4.62 

2.52 

7.14 

3.  57 

10.71 

131 

16.50 

15.67 

1.35 

3.625 

4.90 

2.8.5 

7.75 

4.30 

12.05 

tlOtotlC.99 

132 

16.00 

16.00 

1.75 

3.50 

6.13 

2.35 

8.48 

4.38 

12.84 

1.33 

17.50 

16.26 

1.27 

3. 025 

4.60 

2.45 

7.05 

6.04 

12  09 

lU 

17.50 

16.26 

1.29 

3.50 

4.50 

2.90 

7.40 

4.53 

11.93 

135 

17.50 

16.26 

1.33 

3.50 

4.65 

2.63 

7.18 

6.28 

12. 46 

136 

18.00 

16.74 

1.85 

3.625 

6.71 

3.41 

10.12 

3.50 

13.62 

137 

18.00 

16.74 

1.85 

3.625 

6,71 

3.41 

10.12 

7.20 

17.32 

138 

18.00 

16.74 

1.88 

3.625 

6.80 

3.09 

9.89 

3.80 

13.69 

tlTto:|17.a» 

139 

18.50 

17.17 

1.60 

3.625 

5.78 

2.60 

8.38 

4.12 

12.50 

110 

18.50 

17.19 

1.38 

3.50 

4.81 

2.fJ0 

7.41 

5.32 

12.73 

141 

18.50 

17.20 

1.49 

3.75 

5.69 

3.00 

0«  OtT 

6.02 

13.61 

142 

18.50 

17.20 

1.58 

3.625 

6.71 

2.46 

8.17 

6.72 

13.89 

143 

18.00 

17.38 

1.50 

3.625 

6.44 

2.65 

8.09 

6.41 

13.60 

in 

18.50 

17.61 

1.85 

3.60 

6.48 

2.84 

9.32 

4.19 

13.61 

115 

18.50 

17.57 

1.68 

3.625 

6.07 

3.00 

9.07 

4.00 

13.67 

118  to  118.99. 

146 

19.50 

18.19 

1.78 

3.47 

6.17 

3.01 

9.18 

4.16 

13.34 

147 

20.00 

18.20 

1.75 

3.625 

6.35 

2.70 

9.05 

6.46 

14.61 

148 

20.00 

18.66 

1.75 

3.625 

6.34 

2.90 

9.24 

4.28 

13.52 

149 

20.00 

18.58 

1.48 

3.625 

5.36 

2.64 

8.00 

6.41 

13.41 

150 

20.00 

18.60 

1.78 

3.42 

6.09 

2.95 

9.04 

3.72 

12.76 

151 

20.00 

18.60 

1.96 

3.42 

6.70 

2.95 

9.6,5 

4.12 

13.77 

152 

20.00 

18.66 

1.71 

3.47 

6.94 

3.01 

8.95 

4.67 

13.62 

$19  to  119.99 

153 
1.54 

20.60 
21.00 

19.47 
19.51 

1.7S 
1.67 

3.60 
3.66 

6.22 
6.12 

3.39 
2.77 

9.61 
8.89 

6.20 

6.82 

14.81 

14.71 

155 

21.00 

19. 59 

1.91 

3.60 

6.69 

3.14 

9.83 

4.17 

14.00 

t20  to  120.99 

156 

157 

22.00 
22.00 

20.02 
20.02 

2.00 
2.13 

3.50 
3.625 

7.00 

7.70 

2.85 
3.05 

9.85 
10.75 

4.99 
6.51 

14.84 

10. 26 

158 

22.00 

20.46 

2.25 

3.42 

7.70 

3.60 

11.20 

4.12 

15.32 

159 

22.00 

20.40 

2.55 

3.626 

9.25 

3.18 

12.43 

4.10 

16.53 

$21  to  121.99 

160 
161 

22.50 

23.00 

21.30 

21.36 

2.24 
1.96 

3.50 
3.50 

7.84 

6.80 

3.23 

2.78 

11.07 
9.64 

4.39 

4.71 

15.46 

14.35 

162 

23.  SO 

21.85 

1.97 

3.66 

7.22 

2.81 

10.03 

6.88 

15.91 

$22  to  $22.99 

163 
164 

24.00 
25.00 

22.27 
22.75 

2.25 
2.75 

3.625 
3.625 

8.10 
9.97 

3.75 
3.15 

11.91 
13. 12 

4.28 
5.56 

16.19 

18.68 

165 

24.50 

22.76 

2.11 

3.375 

7.12 

3.11 

10.23 

7.37 

17.60 

$23  to  $23.99 

166 

2.5.00 

23.22 

2.28 

3.60 

8.15 

2.93 

11.08 

5.57 

16.65 

167 

25.00 

23.25 

2. 35 

3.  G25 

8.62 

6.18 

14.70 

4.10 

18.80 

Itt 

25.00 

23.66 

2.76 

3.50 

9.66 

3.23 

12.89 

4.92 

17.81 

OTer524 

169 

26.00 

24.15 

2.36 

3.437 

8.11 

3.26 

11.37 

6.08 

17.45 

BEPOBT  OF   TAKIFF  BOAKD   ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


873 


Table  14h.—Anahjsis  of  costs  of  typical  overcoats— Selling  price  and  details  of  costs. 

[Arranged  in  order  of  net  selling  price.J 


Range  of  net  whole- 
sale selling  price. 


$6  to  $0.99. 
$7  to  $7.99. 
$8  to  $8.99. 
$9  to  $9.99. 


$13  to  $13.99.. 
$14  to  $14.99.. 


$15  to  $15.99. 
116  to  $10.09. 

$18  to  $18.99. 


Ref- 
er- 
ence 
num- 
ber. 


$10  to  $10.99 

$11  to  $11.99 
$12  to  $12.99 


119  to  $19.99. 
$22  to  $22.99. 

$23  to  $23.99. 

$25  and  oyer 


1 

2 

3 

4 

6 
6 

7 

8 

9 

10 

11 
12 
13 

14 

15 

10 
17 
18 
19 
20 
21 

22 

23 
24 

25 
26 

27 
28 

29 
30 

31 
32 
33 
34 

35 
36 
37 
38 

39 
40 
41 

42 
43 

44 
45 


Wholesale 
selling.i 


Cross. 


7.50 

7.50 
10.00 

9.00 
9.00 

10.00 

8.50 

10.00 

10.50 

10.50 
11.00 
11.50 

12.50 
12.50 

13.50 
13.50 
13.25 
13.50 
13.60 
13.50 

15.00 
15.00 
15.00 

15,50 
15.50 
16.00 
16.00 

16.50 
16.50 

17.50 
17.50 
18.00 
18.00 

20.00 
20.00 
20.00 
20.00 

20.00 
25.00 
25.00 

24.50 
24-00 

34.00 
40.00 


Net. 


$6. 48 
6.97 

7.50 
9.25 

8.64 
8.64 

9.10 
7.73 
9  30 
9.93 

10.08 
10.23 
10.46 

11.32 
11.38 

12.28 
12.28 
12. 40 
12.55 
12-55 
12.55 

13.65 
13.95 
13.95 

14.35 
14.66 
14.88 
14.88 

15.01 
15.01 

16.27 
16.28 
10.38 
10.74 

18.20 
18.20 
18.20 
18.60 

19.46 
22.75 
22.75 

23.18 
23.32 

31.62 
37.20 


Cloth 
cost 
per 

yard, 
net. 


$0.85 
.82 

.90 

.86 

.70 
1.05 

1.06 
.86 

1.03 
.95 

1.10 

1.13 

.81 

1.40 
.80 

.95 
1.58 
1.11 
1.035 
1.13 
L43 

1.25 
1.50 
1.03 

1.92 
1.71 
l.GO 
1.92 

1.30 
1.40 

2.03 
2.03 
2.00 
2.14 

1.75 
1.94 
2.50 
2.00 

2.50 
2.70 
2.76 

2.10 
3.30 

4.05 
5.18 


Yards 
per 
over- 
coat. 


2.625 
2.26 

3.00 
2.75 

3.00 
2.875 

3.00 
3.00 
2.21 
3.125 

3.25 

2.875 

3.06 

3.00 
2.00 

3.06 
3.00 
3.42 
2.50 
2.50 
2.60 

2.75 
2.50 
3.00 

2.50 
2.75 
2.875 
2.50 

2.025 
3.06 

2.50 
2.50 
2.75 
2.50 

2.75 
3.06 
2.75 
2.47 

2.75 
3.06 
2.75 

2.75 
2.875 

2.50 
2.50 


Total 
cloth 
cost. 


$2.24 
1.85 

2.70 
2.37 

2.10 
3.02 

3.17 
2.57 
2.28 
2.97 

3.58 
3.23 

2.48 

4.20 
1.60 

2.91 
4.73 
3.79 
2.59 

2.82 
3.58 

3.44 
3.75 

4.88 

4.80 
4.70 

4  60 
4.80 

3.41 
4.29 

5.08 
5.08 
5.50 
5.35 


4.81 
5.94 
6-88 
4.94 


6.88 
8.27 
7.56 

5.78 
9.49 

10.13 
12.95 


Trim- 

minga 

cost. 


$1.44 

1.67 


85 
95 


2.15 
1.81 

2.50 
2.11 
2.69 
3.15 

1.42 
2.50 
2.95 

3.24 
2-37 

3.16 
3.22 
2.57 
3.60 
3.  GO 
3.00 

3.05 
3.00 
2.05 

3,00 
3.85 
4.33 
3.00 

4.18 
3.45 

3.00 
3.00 
3  50 
4.50 

5.30 
3.55 
3.50 
4.50 

4.15 
3.55 
6.10 

8.05 
4.65 

8.90 
10.10 


Total 
ma- 
terial 
cost. 


$3.68 
3.52 

4.55 
4.32 

4.25 
4.83 

5.67 
4.68 
4.97 
6.12 

5.00 
5.73 
5.43 

7.44 
3.97 

6.07 
7,95 
6.36 
6.19 
6.42 
7.18 

0.49 
7.35 
6.93 

8.40 
8.55 
8.93 
8.40 

7.59 
7.74 

8.68 

9.00 
9.85 

10-11 
9.49 

10.38 
9.44 

11.03 
11.82 
13.66 

13.83 
14.14 

19.03 
23.05 


Direct 

labor 

cost.' 


Total 
cost  of 

mate- 
rial and 

direct 

labor. 


$1.32 
1.25 

1.43 
2.64 

1.53 
1.37 

2-26 
1.69 
2.05 
2.59 

1.32 
2.50 
2.55 

2.36 
4.34 

2.90 
2.36 
4.94 
3.72 
3.41 
3.72 

4.44 
3-72 
2.60 

3.72 
3.00 
2.93 
3.72 

3-36 
3.40 

3.72 
3-72 

4.54 
3.72 

4.54 
4.58 
4.49 
2.60 

2.86 
4.58 
4.54 

3.11 
3.05 

3.72 
3.72 


$5.00 
4.77 

5.98 
6.86 

6.78 
6.20 

7.93 

6.37 
7-02 
8.71 

6.32 
8  23 
7.98 

9.80 
8.31 

8.97 

10.31 

11.30 

9.91 

9.83 

10.90 

10.93 

11.07 

9.43 

12-12 
11-55 
11.86 
12.12 

10.95 
11.14 

12.40 
12.40 
13.54 
13.57 

14.65 
14.07 
14,87 
12-04 

13.89 
10.40 
18.20 

16-94 
17.19 

22.75 

26.77 


I  ThA  roTTPSTwndinc  retail  price  may  be  estimated  by  adding  50  per  cent  to  the  wholesale  price. 
ThL?S?yTprSfnt^X?ct  labor  where  the  manulfacturer\as\iis  own  shops;  othervyise  it  stands  for 
thi^£^tmaSthQC\itiisig  room  plus  the  amount  paid  to  contractors  for  making  up  the  garments. 


EEPOKT  OF  TAEIFF  BOAE0  OF  SCHEDULE  K, 


Table  14c.— Analysis  of  costs  of  typical  pcmts— Selling  prke  and  details  of  cost*. 

[Arranged  in  order  of  net  selling  price.] 


Ranee  of  net  whole- 
sale selling  price. 


S2and  under.. 
$2  to  12.49 

|B.50toS2.99.. 
«to$3.99 


Refer- 
ence 

num- 
ber. 


8 
9 

10 


Wholesale 

selling.  I 


Gross. 


SI.  50 
2.00 

2.25 
2.25 
2.50 

3.00 
3.00 

3.60 
4.00 

5.00 


Net. 


Cloth 

cost  per 

yard 

net. 


11.35 
1.80 

2.09 
2.09 
2.28 

2.70 
2.73 

3.16 

3.64 

4.55 


SO.  58 
.63 

.85 
.90 

1.25 
1.03 

1.40 
1.70 

2.00 


Yards 

per 
pants. 


1.26 
L34 

1.22 
1.29 
1.34 

1.29 
1.34 

1.29 

1.29 

1.34 


Total 

cloth 
cost. 


Sa72 
.84 

1.04 
1.16 
1.11 

1.61 
1.37 

1.81 
2.19 

2.68 


Trim- 
mings 

Total 

mate- 
rial 
cost. 

Direct 
labor 

cost. 

cost* 

so.  14 

SO.  86 

SO.  30 

.13 

.97 

.52 

.20 

1.24 

.39 

.20 

L36 

•  99 

.16 

1.27 

.58 

.22 

1.83 

.49 

.18 

1.55 

.67 

.25 

2.06 

.58 

.25 

2.44 

.58 

.23 

2.91 

.65 

Total 
cost  of 
mate- 
rial and 
direct, 
labor. 


SI.  16 
1  49 

1.63 
1.75 
1  85 

2.32 
2.12 

2.64 
3  02 

3.56 


Table  14d.— Analysis  of  costs  of  typical  suits  (special  order)— Selling  price  and  details 

of  costs. 

[Arranged  in  order  of  net  selling  pric«.] 


Wholesale  selling  price. 


S10.50.. 
S12.... 

S13.... 
S14.... 
S15.... 

S16.... 

S17.... 
S18...- 

S20.... 

I2S 

S36.... 

t28.... 

S32.... 


Total 
cloth 
cost. 


S2.80 
3.60 
4.01 

4.36 
4.83 
5.00 
6.05 

3.58 
5.96 
5.38 

6.67 
6.09 

6.54 
7.50 

7.71 

8.  68 

10.00 

8.25 

9.26 

ia49 

11.20 


Trim- 
mings 
cost. 


SI.  25 
1.76 
1.70 

2.25 
1.75 
1.70 
1.70 
2.00 

2.60 
2.00 
2.75 
3.75 

2.85 

3.10 
2.50 
2.00 

4.10 
3.12 
2.75 

3.85 


Total 

material 

cost. 


S4.05 
6.35 
6.74 

5.11 
6.11 
6.53 
6.70 

7.05 

6.18 

7.96 

8.13 

10.42 

9.39 
9.&i 

10.81 
11.18 
12.00 

12.35 
12.38 
13.24 

15.05 


Direct 
labor 
cost.i 


S3. 57 
5.25 
3.64 

4.62 
6.30 
3.67 
3.57 

6.60 

4.80 
6.90 
6.14 
4.12 
6.47 

6.50 
7.03 

6.14 
7.86 
3.54 

4.92 

6.44 
.&74 

7.03 


Total 
cost  of 

material 

and  direct 

labor. 


$7. 62 

10.60 

9.28 

9.73 
11.41 
10.10 

10.27 
12.65 

10.98 
13.86 
14.27 
14.54 
15.41 

14.98 
16.87 

16.95 
19.04 
15. 54 

17  27 

1&82 
2L98 

2208 


I  This  entry  represents  direct  labor  where  the  manufacturer  has  his  own  shops:  otherwise  it  stands  for 
the  direct  labor  m  the  cutting  room  plus  the  amount  paid  to  contractors  for  making  up  the  garments. 


BEPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


875 


IMPORTANCE  OF  WOOLEN  LININGS  IN  THE  MANUFACTURE  OF  CLOTHING. 

The  foregoing  discussion  was  concerned  chiefly  with  the  cost  of 
cloth  and  its  importance  among  the  manufacturers'  costs.  In  medium 
and  high  grade  clothing  the  lining  used  for  the  inside  of  the  coat  and 
back  of  the  vest  is  woolen,  or  rather  a  cotton  warped  woolen  cloth. 
About  2i  yards  are  used  and  the  price  of  such  linings  are  from  30  to 
60  cents  per  yard.  From  the  data  gathered  it  appears  that  the  cost 
of  such  lining  is  equal  to  fully  5  or  6  per  cent  of  the  selling  price  of  the 
garment.  On  some  grades  of  clothmg  it  is  equal  to  8  or  9  per  cent 
of  the  net  seUing  price. 

The  accompanymg  table  shows  for  specimen  suits  the  cost  of  woolen 
linings  per  yard.  The  total  cost  of  the  lining  can  readily  be  computed 
by  multiplying  by  2  or  2 J. 

Table  15. — Relation  of  cost  of  woolen  lining  per  yard  to  selling  price  of  suits. 


Net  selling 

Cost  per 

Net  seUing 

Cost  per 

price  of 

yard  body 

price  of 

yard  body 

suit. 

lining. 

suit. 

lining. 

S7.90 

SO.  325 

S12.83 

SO.  35 

8.37 

.35 

13.06 

.36 

9.18 

.318 

13.92 

.45 

9.30 

.32 

13.95 

.425 

9.30 

.35 

14.25 

.40 

9.74 

.325 

15.31 

.425 

10.09 

.338 

15.31 

.50 

10. 72 

.32 

15.39 

.382 

11.16 

.37 

15.67 

.45 

11.40 

.325 

17.57 

.50 

11.60 

.325 

18.19 

.475 

11.66 

.338 

18.66 

.472 

12.53 

.425 

19.59 

.51 

12.60 

.36 

To  determine  the  importance  of  woolen  material  in  the  manufacture 
of  clothing,  it  is  necessary  to  add,  for  all  but  cheap  grades,  about  6 
per  cent  of  the  selhn^  price  for  woolen  Hnings.  This  means  that  for 
medium  and  most  hign  grade  clothing  the  cost  of  woolen  materials 
used  is  40  per  cent  of  the  selling  price  or  more.  For  cheap-grade 
clothing  the  cloth  cost  alone  is  40  per  cent.  Thus  for  most  clothing 
sold  the  cost  of  w^oolen  material  is  fully  40  per  cent  of  the  seUing  price. 

RELATION  OF  THE  COST  OF  CLOTH  TO  THE  COST  OF  CLOTHING. 

Among  the  manufacturers  whose  establishments  were  studied,  the 
cloth  used  ranged  in  price  per  yard  from  45  cents  in  a  suit  selling  for 
$4.65  retail  to  $2.76  in  one  selling  wholesale  at  $25  regular,  or  the 
equivalent  of  $35  to  $40  retail.  In  overcoats  the  highest  price  cloth 
was  $5.18  per  yard,  in  an  overcoat  seUing  at  $40  wholesale.  Both 
higher  ana  lower  priced  cloths  were  used  by  the  establishments 
visited,  but  not  in  garments  having  a  wide  sale.  In  the  main  the 
cloths  used  in  manufacturing  men's  clothing  range  in  price  from  65 
cents  to  $2.  The  average  priced  garments  using  the  former  cloth  sells 
at  $5.50  at  wholesale  and  about  $8  retaU;  the  average  priced  garment 
in  which  the  $2  cloth  is  used  is  about  $20  wholesale,  or  about  $30  retail. 
In  garments  forming  the  bulk  of  the  ready-made  clothing  production, 
those  sold  at  retail  from  $10  to  $20,  the  cloth  price  would  range  from 


876 


EEPORT  OF  TAKIFF  BO.VBD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


65  cents  to  about  $1 .50.  The  retail  equivalents  for  wholesale  prices  as 
given  here  are  on  the  assumption  that  the  retail  price  adds  50  per  cent 
to  the  cost  at  wholesale. 

In  an  accompanying  table  (Table  17)  there  are  shown  the  details 
bearing  on  the  relation  of  the  cost  of  cloth  per  yard  to  the  net  selling 
price  at  wholesale.  There  is  shown  for  each  price  of  cloth  the  prices  of 
garments  into  which  it  enters,  and  also  the  cost  of  the  trimmmgs  and 
me  direct  labor  cost  or  contract  price. 

For  the  cloths  most  extensively  used  in  the  specimen  garments  for 
which  the  data  nre  available  a  summary  has  been  made  showing  the 
average  price  of  the  garments  into  which  certain  priced  cloths  go,  and 
also  the  maximum  and  minimum  priced  garments  in  whicn  such 
cloths  are  used. 

Table  U.— Relation  of  chth  cost  to  total  cost  of  suits— Summary— Net  selling  prke  of 
suits  and  details  of  cost  according  to  the  price  oj  cloth  per  yard. 


•Average  maximum  anl  minimum  price  for  suits  using  cloth  at  specified  prices  from  S0.75  to  12  per  yard.) 

Kange  o  doth 
cost  per  yard. 

• 
Item.» 

Net 

wholesale 

selling 

price. 

Esti- 
mated 

retail 
price.* 

Total 
cloth 
cost. 

Trim- 
mings 
cost. 

Total 
material 

cost. 

Direct 
labor 

COSt.3 

Total  cost 
of  mate- 
rial and 
direct 
labor. 

10.76  to  10.80.. - 

Average 

Highest 

Lowest 

Variation. 

Average 

Highest 

Lowest 

Variation. 

Average 

Highest 

Lowest 

Variation. 

Average 

Highest 

Lowest 

Variation. 

Average 

Highest 

Lowest 

Variation. 

Average 

Highest 

Lowest 

Variation. 

Average 

Highest 

T-owest 

Variation. 

Average 

Highest 

Lowest 

Variation. 

88  49 
11.66 

6.58 

113.29 

18.00 
9  00 

12.70 
2.92 

2.62 

$1.66 
2.37 
1.03 

S4.36 

5.18 
3.69 

$2.40 
4.34 
1.38 

$6.7« 
9.51 
5.10 

6.08 

9.00 

.40 

1.34 

1.49 

2.96 

4.35 

.81  to     .85... 

8  68 

10.67 

7.35 

13  16 
16.00 
11.00 

2  94 

3.08 
2.83 

1.79 
2.a3 
L35 

4.73 
5.13 
4.33 

2.33 
3.03 
1.85 

7.06 
8.14 
6.18 

3.32 

5.00 

.25 

.68 

.80 

1.18 

L96 

.86  to     .90. . . 

9  13 

12. 08 

6.36 

14.20 
19.00 
10.00 

3.10 
3.26 
2.89 

1.79 
2.57 
1.10 

4.89 
6.69 
3.99 

2.34 
3.60 
1.33 

7.23 
9.29 
5.62 

6.72 

9.00 

.37 

1.47 

L70 

2.27 

3.67 

.91  to     .95. . . 

io.2;j 

1Z65 
6  90 

15  71 
19  00 
ILOO 

3.22 
3.35 
3.07 

2.02 
2.67 
1.10 

6.99 
6.92 
4.22 

3.34 
3.73 
1.59 

10.33 
9.46 
7.18 

5.65 

8.00 

.28 

1.47 

L70 

2.14 

2.28 

.96  to   1.00... 

10  93 

12.60 
9.30 

16.60 
19.00 
14.00 

3.52 
3.65 
3.46 

2.13 

2.36 
1.80 

5.66 
6.97 
5.28 

3.21 
4.86 
2.22 

8.87 

10.74 

7.77 

3.30 

5.00 

.19. 

.56 

.69 

2.64 

2.97 

1.01  to   1.05... 

8.84 
9.77 
7.50 

13.  75 
15.00 
12.00 

3.  49 
3.71 
3.34 

1  66 
2.12 
1.13 

5.15 
5.83 
4.59 

2.11 
2.45 
1.69 

7.26 
8.26 
6.28 

2.27 

3.00 

.37 

.99 

1.26 

.76 

1.98 

1.06  to   1.10... 

10.39 

14.86 

7.72 

15.92 
23.00 
12.00 

3.77 
3.99 
3.57 

1.92 
2.56 
L25 

5.69 
6.64 
4.90 

2.74 
4.09 
1.56 

8.43 

10.52 

6.76 

7.14 

11.00 

.42 

1.30 

1.64 

2.63 

3.76 

1.11  to   1.15... 

11. 62 
13.65 

9.30 

17.67 
2L00 
14.00 

3.88 
4.08 
3.68 

2.08 
2.57 
1.63 

5.96 
6.43 
6.31 

2.29 

4.86 
2.39 

9.26 

11.19 

7.70 

4. 35 

7.00 

.50 

1.04 

1.12 

2.47 

3.49 

» The  amount  entered  opposite  "variation"  is  the  difference  between  the  maximum  and  minimum, 
«  Estimates  based  on  the  a:;.3umption  that  retail  prices  are  50  pr  cent  above  wholesale  prices. 
3  This  entry  represents  direct  labor  where  the  manufacturer  has  his  own  shops;  otherwise  it  stands  for 
the  direct  labor  in  the  cutting  room  plus  the  amount  paid  to  contractors  for  making  up  the  garments. 


EEPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


877 


Table  16. — Relation  of  chth  cost  to  total  cost  oJ[  suits — Summary — Net  selling  price  of 
suits  and  details  of  cost  according  to  the  price  oj  cloth  per  yard — Continued. 


fl 


I 


Range  of  cloth 
cost  i)er  yard. 

Item. 

Net 

wholesale 

selling 

price. 

$11.79 

14.25 

8.50 

Esti- 
mated 
retail 
price. 

Total 
cloth 
cost. 

Trim- 
mings 
cost. 

Total 

material 

cost. 

Direct 

labor 

cost. 

Total  cost 
of  mate- 
rial and 
direct 
labor. 

$1.16  to  $1.20... 

Average 

Highest 

Lowest 

Variation. 

Average 

Highest 

Lowest 

Variation. 

Average 

Highest 

Lowest 

Variation. 

Average 

Highest 

Lowest 

Variation. 

Average 

Highest 

Lowest 

Variation. 

Average 

Highest 

Lowest 

Variation. 

Average 

Highest 

Lowest 

Variation. 

Average 

Highest 

Lowest 

Variation. 

Average 

Highest 

Lowest 

Variation. 

Average 

Highest 

Lowest 

Variation. 

Average 

Highest 

Lowest 

Variation. 

Average 

Highest 

Lowest 

Variation. 

Average 

Highest 

Lowest 

Variation. 

$18. 17 
22.00 
13.00 

$4.13 
4.35 
3.95 

$?.24 
2.75 
L25 

$6.36 
7.10 
5.22 

$3.19 
4.12 
1.82 

$9.56 

11.10 

7.04 

5.75 

9.00 

.40 

L50 

L88 

2.30 

4.06 

1.21  to   1.25... 

11.44 

14.86 

9.80 

17.71 
23.00 
15.00 

4.35 
4.53 
4.10 

1.98 
2.42 
1.75 

6.33 
6.95 
5.95 

2.97 
4.38 
2.30 

9.29 

11.33 

8.43 

5.06 

8.00 

.43 

.67 

1.00 

2.08 

2.90 

1.26  to   1.30... 

12.47 

16.26 

9.00 

19.27 
25.00 
14.00 

4.43 
4.62 
4.25 

2.18 
2.90 
1.44 

6.61 
7.40 
5.76 

3.36 
5.04 
1.43 

9.98 

12.09 

7.19 

7.26 

11.00 

.37 

1.46 

L64 

3.61 

4.90 

1.31  to   1.35... 

13.53 

16. 26 

9.30 

20.82 
25.00 
18.00 

4.67 
4.90 

4.47 

2.41 
2.85 
1.53 

7.08 
7.75 
6.09 

3.65 
5.28 
2.39 

10.73 

12.46 

8.48 

6.96 

7.00 

.43 

1.32 

1.C6 

2.89 

3.98 

1.36  to   1.40... 

14.97 
17.13 
12.53 

22.83 
20. 00 
19.00 

4.97 
5.12 
4.74 

2.44 
2.70 
2.10 

7.41 
7.C8 
7.18 

4.41 
5.47 
3.24 

11.82 
13.15 
10.72 

4. 66 

7.00 

.38 

.60 

.50 

2.23 

2.43 

L41to   1.45... 

13.37 
15.14 
n.47 

20.43 
23.00 
18.00 

4.97 
5.15 
4.81 

2.34 
3.17 
1.64 

7.31 
8.32 
6.61 

3.32 

3.77 

.      2.50 

10.63 

11.57 

9.11 

3.07 

5.00 

.34 

1.53 

1.71 

L27 

2.46 

1.46  to   1.50... 

14.61 
18.58 
10.00 

22.14 
28.00 
15.00 

5.27 
5.57 
4.98 

2.26 
3.00 
L35 

7.53 
8.57 
6.41 

3.84 
5.41 
2.08 

1138 

13.59 

8.40 

8.58 

13.00 

.59 

1.65 

2.16 

3.33 

5.10 

1.51  to    1.55... 

14.62 
15.25 
13.95 

22.25 
23.00 
21.00 

5.26 
5.52 

5.12 

2.64 
3.01 
2.40 

7.90 
8.53 

7.68 

3.62 
4.12 
3.15 

11.52 
11.81 
11.17 

1.30 

2.00 

.40 

.61 

.85 

.97 

.64 

1.56  to   1.60... 

15.05 
17.20 
11.47 

23.00 
26.00 
18.00 

5.57 

5.78 
5.38 

2.41 

2.60 
2.00 

7.98 
8. 38 
7.40 

4.15 
5.72 
3.04 

12.13 
13.89 
10.44 

5.73 

8.00 

.40 

.60 

.98 

2.68 

3.45 

1.61  to   1.65... 

13.08 
13.76 
12.39 

20.00 
21.00 
19.00 

5. 48 
5.49 
5.47 

2.28 
2.40 
2.15 

7.76 
7.87 
7.6-1 

3.27 
3.31 
3.23 

11.03 
1L18 
10.87 

1.37 

2.00 

.02 

.25 

.23 

.08 

.31 

1.66  to    1.70... 

17.00 
19.51 
13.92 

26.00 
30.00 
21.00 

.  6.10 
6.12 
6.07 

2.76 
3.00 
2.51 

8.86 
9.07 
8.63 

4.67 
5.82 
3.59 

13.53 
14.71 
12.22 

5.59 

9.00 

.05 

.49 

.44 

2.23 

2.49 

1.71  to   1.75... 

18.09 
18.66 
12.25 

24.43 
28.00 
19.00 

6.16 
6.35 
5.94 

2.48 
3.01 
1.68 

8.65 
9.24 
7.81 

4.16 
5.46 
2.50 

12.81 
14.61 
10.31 

6.41 

9.00 

.41 

1.33 

1.43 

2.96 

4.20 

1.76  to   1.80... 

16.21 
19.47 
12.39 

24.83 
30.00 
19.00 

6.14 
6.30 
5.99 

2.69 
3.39 
2.15 

8.83 
9.61 
8.14 

3.82 
5.20 
3.23 

12.65 
14.81 
il.37 

7.08 

n.oo 

.31 

L24 

L47 

Ly7 

3.44 

878 


REPOET  OF  TABEFF  BOJOID  ON   SCHEDtJLE  K. 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD   ON  SCHEDULE  K, 


879 


Table  16, — Etkaion  of  doth  cost  to  total  cost  of  miits— Nummary— Net  selling  price  of 
guits  and  detaik  oj  cost  according  to  the  price  of  cloth  per  yorJ— Continued. 


1 


Range  of  cloth 
oosi  per  yard. 

Item. 

Net 

wholesale 

selling 

price. 

Esti- 

Tnat€(l 

retail 

price. 

Total 
clotli 
cost. 

Trim- 
mings 
cost 

Total 

material 

cost 

Direct 
labor 
cost. 

Total  cost 

of  nutle- 

rial  and 

direct 

labor. 

SLSlto$1.85... 

Average 

11  ighest 

Lowest 

Variation. 

Average* 

Average' 

Average 

Highest 

Lowest 

Variation. 

S16.58 
17.51 
15.31 

125.00 
27.00 
23.00 

16.67 
6.77 
6.48 

13.05 
3.41 
2.55 

$9.72 

10.12 

9.32 

S4.68 
7.20 
3.50 

$14.40 
17.32 
13.16 

2.20            4.00              .29 

.86 

.80 

3.70 

4.16 

um  to  1.90... 

16.74 

25.00 

6.80 

3.09 

9.8!l 

3.80 

13.69 

L91to    1.95... 

19.59          30.00            6.69 

3.14 

9.83 

4.17 

14.00 

L98to    2.00... 

19.31 

2L85 
14.70 

29.00 
33.00 
22.00 

6.96 

7.22 
6.70 

2.82 
2.95 
2.70 

9.77 

mc3 

9.64 

4.55 
£.88 
3.05 

15.31 
15.91 
12.75 

7.15           11.00 

.52              .25 

.39 

2.83 

3.16 

» One  specimen  garment. 

Two  thinffs  are  shown  by  this  tabic.  The  average  price  of  garments 
rises  with  the  price  of  the  cloth  used.  There  are  some  few  exceptions, 
but  these  are  due  to  lack  of  an  adequate  number  of  specimen  gar- 
ments at  such  points  in  the  ascending  scale  of  cloth  prices  and  pnces 
of  garments. 

Far  more  striking  though  less  significant  a  feature  of  this  table  is 
the  wide  variation  in  the  pi  ice  of  garments  into  wluch  the  same  priced 
cloths  enter.  Thus  75  to  80  cent  cloths  are  used  in  garments  sold  for 
as  high  as  $11.66  and  as  low  as  $5.58.  There  is  a  margin  of  $3.32 
between  the  cheapest  and  most  expensive  suit  in  "which  81  to  85  cent 
cloths  are  used — a  margin  equal  to  more  than  100  per  cent  of  the 
entire  cloth  cost.  For  86  to  90  cent  and  91  to  95  cent  clotlis,  the  dif- 
ference in  price  between  cheapest  and  the  most  expensive  suit  is 
about  $6.  Such  a  variation  is  characteristic  throughout.  Practi- 
cally every  priced  cloth  used  enters  into  garments  varying  in  price  by 
more  than  tne  total  cost  of  all  the  cloth  used  in  the  garments.  Never- 
theless the  significant  j)oint  not  to  be  lost  sight  of  is  the  fact  that,  all 
in  all,  the  cost  of  cloth  is  the  largest  factor  in  the  cost  of  clothing  and 
particularly  in  the  most  popular  grades.  Tliis  is  evident  from  the 
fact  that  the  average  price  per  suit  and  the  average  cost  of  the  cloth 
used  in  it  rise  together. 

'  This  table  indicates  that  the  determining  factor  in  the  price  of 
clothing  is  the  cloth  cost.  This  is  so  directly  and  indirectly.  The 
cost  of  cloth  directly  affects  the  price  of  the  garment  by  the  amount 
expended  for  tliis  purpose.  The  manufacturer,  furthermore,  deter- 
mines  the  type  of  trimmings  to  be  used  and  the  amount  of  labor  to  be 
put  on  the  garment  according  to  the  grade  of  tli(^  cloth  he  uses.  To  a 
considerable  extent  the  same  trimmings,  or  trimmings  varying  slightly 
in  cost,  are  used  in  suits  or  overcoats  differing  in  price  by  as  much  as 
$2  or  $3.  In  the  same  way  the  labor  cost,  particularly  for  pants  and 
vests,  is  frequently  the  same  for  garments  differing  very  widely  in 
price.  In  such  cases  the  varjdng  costs  of  cloth  is  the  only  ground  of 
difference  in  selling  price. 

The  great  divergence  found  in  the  price  of  garments  in  which  clotlis 
bought  for  the  same  prices  are  used,  is  due  to  the  different  policy  pur- 


X 


\ 


sued  by  different  types  of  clotliiers.  Producers  of  cheap  and  medium 
clothing  emphasize  the  cloth,  producers  of  higher  grade  clothing  lay 
more  stress  on  the  trimming,  on  style,  and  on  workmanship.  For 
each  type  of  manufacturer,  however,  the  difference  in  cloth  cost  is 
very  largely  the  basis  for  the  difference  in  price. 

In  the  higher  priced  suits  made  from  a  given  cloth,  the  compensa- 
tion, where  there  is  such  compensation,  is  partly  made  in  the  cost  of 
trimmings  of  which  the  cloth  is  used.  In  greater  part  the  compensa- 
tion is  in  the  higher  labor  cost,  more  work  being  put  upon  the  garment. 
Earlier  analysis  showed,  however,  that  some  part  of  the  difference 
arises  from  the  larger  margin  between  the  factory  price  and  the 
seUing  cost  of  higher  grade  garments.  Producers  of  high-grade 
clothing  spend  far  more  for  advertising  and  for  the  expense  of  selling 
than  those  who  manufacture  cheaper  garments.  As  regards  the 
essential  qualities  required  of  clothing,  the  consumer  who  wears 
popular  priced  garments  gets  more  for  his  money. 

The  accompanying  table  shows  for  the  different  cloths  arranged 
in  order  of  cloth  cost  per  yard,  the  price  of  the  suits  in  Vliich  the 
cloth  enters,  the  number  of  yards  and  the  total  cost  for  the  cloth 
used,  and  the  other  items  of  cost.  This  table  furnishes  an  abstract 
of  the  data  for  specimen  garments  secured  for  wholesale  clothing. 

Table  17a. — Relation  of  cloth  cost  to  total  cost  oj  suits — Details  /or  all  specimen  gar" 
merits — Cost  oj  cloth  per  yard,  yardage,  net  selling  price  ojsuit,  and  details  oj  cost. 

[Arranged  according  to  cloth  cost  per  yard.] 


Refer- 
ence 
No. 


2 


3 

9 

4 

14.... 


11 

10 

6 


12. 

72. 
6.. 

61. 
73. 


Cloth 

cost  per 

yard  net. 


84 

21 

20 

15 

23 

55 


S 

18 

56 

77 

7 

16 

60 

35 

47 


>••..... 


$0.45 
.52 

.65 
.67 
.67 
.67- 

.71. 

.75 

.75 

.775 

.78 

.7875 

.80 

.80 

.81 

.814 

.84 

.85 

.85 

.85 

.855 

.875 

.875 

.89 

.90 

.90 

.90 

.90 

.90 

.90 


Yards 
per  suit 


3.25 
3.25. 

3.25 
3.375 
3.375 
3.54 

3.375 
3. 375 


Total 
cloth 
cost. 


Trim- 
mings 
cost. 


d.6iO 

3.375 

3.65 

3.375 

3.50 

3.65 

3.50 

3.50 

3.50 

3.50 

3.50 

3.625 

3.375 

3.31 

3.50 

3.50 

3.375 

3.375 

3.50 

3.625 

3.625 

3. 625 

$1.4G 
1.69 

2.11 
2.27 
2.27 
2.37 

2.40 
2.52 
2.52 

2.63 
2.85 
2.66 
2.80 
2.92 

2.83 
2.85 
2.94 
2.98 
2.98 
3.08 

2.89 
2.90 
3.06 
3.12 
3.04 
3.04 
3.15 
3.26 
3.26 
3.26 


Total 

material 

cost. 


Direct 

labor 

cost.* 


$0.58 
.69 

1.00 
1.13 
1.13 
1.64 

1.44 
1.13 
1.13 

1.44 
2.26 
1.03 
2.37 
2.26 

2.30 
1.75 
1.60 
1.35 
1.72 
2.03 

1.10 
1.41 
2.00 
2.57 
1.10 
1.30 
2.00 
1.82 
2.39 
2.25 


$2.04 
2.38 

3.11 
3.40 
3.40 
.4.01 

3.84 
3.65 
3.65 

4.06 
5.11 
3.69 
5.17 
5.18 

5.13 
4.60 
4.54 
4.33 
4.70 
5.11 

3.99 
4.31 
5.06 
5.69 
4.14 
4.34 
5.15 
5.08 
5.65 
6.61 


Total  cost 

of  material 

and  direct 

labor. 


Wholesale  selling 
price. 


Gross. 


Net. 


10.95 

$5.99 

1.05 

3.43 

1.26 

4.37 

1.56 

4.96 

1.56 

4.96 

1.82 

5.83 

1.26 

6.10 

1.56 

5.21 

1.56 

5.21 

1.38 

5.44 

3.24 

8.35 

1.47 

5.16 

4.34 

9.51 

3.24 

8.42 

2.40 

7.53 

2.26 

6.86 

2.24 

6.78 

1.85 

6.18 

2.19 

6.89 

3.03 

8.14 

1.63 

5.62 

1.33 

5.64 

2.55 

7.61 

3.60 

9.29 

1.63 

5.77 

1.68 

6.02 

2.68 

7.83 

2.37 

7.45 

2.67 

8.32 

3.28 

8.79 

$3.75 
4.50 

5.50 
7.00 
6.00 
7.50 

6.75 
7.00 
6.00 

6.75 
12.50 

6.50 
12.50 
12.50 

10.00 
9.00 
8.50 
7.50 
8.50 

11.00 

7.00 

8.50 

11.50 

13.00 

7.00 

8.00 

10.50 

10.00 

10.50 

12.00 


$3.75 

4.50 

5.50 
6.51 
5.58 
6.97 

6.75 
6.51 
5.58 

6. 75 
11.66 

5.93 
11.38 
11.66 

9.30 
8.37 
7.90 
7.35 
8.50 
10.67 

6.37 
7.65 

10.69 

12.08 
6.36 
7.44 

10.08 
9.30 
9.95 

11.40 


»  This  entry  represents  direct  labor  where  the  manufacturer  has  iiis  own  shops;  otherwise  it  stands  for  the 
Oirect  labor  m  the  cutting  room  plus  the  amount  paid  to  contrtictors  for  makmg  up  the  garments. 


880 


REPORT  OF  T.UtIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDrUE  K. 


REPORT  OP  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


881 


I 


Tablb  17a. — Relaii&n  of  doth  cost  to  total  cost  of  suits — Details  for  all  specimen  qar* 
ments — Cost  of  cloth  per  yard,  yardage,  net  selling  price  ofsuitj  anddetaiU  of  cost — Con. 


Refers 

ence 
No. 


74. 
13. 

m. 

64. 

36. 


85. 
37. 

38. 
48. 
75. 
90. 

44. 

17. 

22. 
45. 


29.. 
30.. 
25.. 
67.. 
117. 
19.. 
81.. 
42.. 
83.. 
68.. 
83.. 
91.. 


89. 

40. 
69. 
79. 

m. 

09. 

87. 


24.. 

n.. 
111. 

61-. 

89-. 
62.. 
46.. 
60.. 
67.. 
118. 


27.. 

63.. 

68.. 

i;j3. 

2t... 
o3. . 
121. 
98.. 
113. 
134. 
43.. 


130., 

129.. 

63.. 

109.. 

135.. 

78... 

41.. 

96.. 

70.. 

103.. 

131.. 


Cloth 

cost  per 

yard  net. 


f0.91 
.91 
.925 
.925 

.95 
.96 

.96 

1.00 
1.00 
1.00 
1.00 

i.om 

1.025 
1.025 
1.05 

1.057 

1.057 

1.06 

1.06 

1.06 

1.08 

1.08 

1.08 

1.08 

1.10 

1.10 

l.IO 

1.115 

1.12 

1.12 

1.12 

1.125 

1. 125 

1.13 

1.17 

1.175 

1. 195 

1.195 

1.20 

1.20 

1.215 

1.23 

1.25 

1.25 

1.25 

1.25 

1.26 

1.26 
1.26 
1.26 
1.27 
1.28 
1.28 
1.28 
1.29 
1.29 
1.29 
1.30 

1.32 
1.32 
1.33 
1.33 
1.33 
1.33 
1.35 
1.35 
1.35 

1.35 


Yards 
per  suit. 


S3. 375 
3.50 
3.375 
8.42 
3.625 

3.50 

3.60 
3.50 
3.50 
3.50 

3.025 
3.05 

3.66 
3.375 
3.375 
3.18 

8.375 

3.375 

3.375 

3.625 

3.66 

3.375 

3.375 

3.50 

3.60 

3.50 

3.50 

3.625 

3.50 

3.375 

3.50 

3.625 

3.18 

3.  G25 

3.42 

3.375 
3. 375 
3.42 
3.42 
3. 625 
3.625 

3.375 

3.625 

3.375 

3.50 

3.50 

3.50 

3.625 

3.375 
3.375 
3.66 
3.625 
3. 375 

3.50 
3.42 
3.42 

3.50 
8.375 

3.50 

3.60 

3.375 

3.42 

3.50 

3.50 

3.375 

3. 4^ 

3.50 

3.625 

3.625 


Total 
cloth 

ost. 


13.07 
8.19 

3.12 
3.16 
3.35 
3.33 
3.33 

3.46 
3.48 
3.50 
3.50 
3.63 
3.65 

3.71 
3.46 
3-46 
3.34 

3.57 
3.57 
3.58 
3.84 
3.89 
3.65 
3.65 
3.78 
3.89 
3.85 
3.86 
3.99 

3.90 
3.78 
3.92 
4.06 
3.58 
4.03 
3.86 

3.97 
4.08 
4.08 
4.35 
4.35 

4.10 
4.46 
4.22 
4.38 
4.38 
4.38 
4.53 

4.25 
4.25 
4.62 
4.60 
4.32 
4.48 
4.48 
4.41 
4.41 
4.60 
4.39 

4.62 

4.78 
4.49 

4. 65 
4.65 
4.66 
4.56 
4.62 
4.73 
4.90 
4.90 


Trim- 
mings 
cost. 


11.70 
2.26 
1,10 
2.67 
2.67 
1.60 
2.36 

2. 86 
1.80 
2.08 
1  98 
2.25 
2.32 

2,12 
1.13 
1.50 
1.90 

1.70 
1.70 
1.62 
1.84 
2.54 
1.25 
1,70 
2.02 
2.32 
2.13 
1.75 
2.55 

1.58 
1.53 
2.20 
2.03 
2.42 
2.25 
2.57 

1,70 
1,25 

2,57 
2.57 
2.69 
2.75 

1.85 
2.12 
1.85 
1.75 
1.80 
2.06 
2,42 

1,65 

1.85 
2.28 
2.45 
1.44 
2.05 

2.57 
2.57 
2.90 
1.65 

2.52 
2.77 
2.00 
2.57 
2.53 
2-69 
1.53 
2.57 
2.08 
2.37 
2,85  1 


Total 

material 

cost. 


14.77 
5.45 
4.22 
6.73 
6.92 
4.93 
5.69 

5.82 
5.28 

5.58 
5.48 
5. 88 
6.97 

5.83 
4.59 
4.96 
5.24 

6.27 
6.27 
6.20 
6.68 
6.43 
4.90 
5.35 
5.80 
6.21 
6-98 
5.61 
6.64 

6.48 
5.31 
6.12 
6.09 
6.00 
6.33 
0.43 

6.65 

5.22 
6.65 
6.65 
6.94 
7,10 

6.95 
6.58 
6.07 
6.13 
6.18 
6.44 
6.95 

6.10 
6.90 
7.05 
6.76 
6.63 
7.07 
6.98 
6.98 
7.40 
6,04 

7,14 

7,55 
6.49 
7.12 
7.18 
7.35 
6.09 
7.19 
6.81 
7.27 
7.76 


Direct 

labor 

cost. 


2.87 
1.59 
3.73 
3.37 
2.25 
2.96 

3.54 

2.22 
2.88 
4.86 
3.24 

2.4d 
1.69 
1.86 
2.45 

2.59 
2.59 
1.56 
3.12 
4.09 
1.93 
2.69 
2.66 
3.24 
2,42 
2.75 
3,40 

2.50 
2.39 
3.04 
3.18 
3.40 
4.86 
3.72 

2.59 
1.82 
3.72 
4.12 
2.92 
4.  CO 

2.59 
3.01 
2.59 
2.30 
2.60 
3.31 
4.38 

2.25 
2.59 
3.03 
6.04 
1.43 
3.13 
4.49. 
4.12 
4.12 
4.53 
2.26 

3.57 
3.74 
3.04 
3.72 
6.28 
3.25 
2.39 
4.12 
2,65 
4,06 
4.30 


Total  cost 

of  material 

and  direct 

labor. 


Wholesale  selling 
price. 


17,36 
8.32 
5.81 
9.46 
0.29 
7.18 
8.64 

9.36 
7,77 
7,80 
8,36 
10,74 
9.21 

8.26 
6.28 
G.82 
7,69 

7.88 
7.86 
6.76 
8.80 
10.52 
6.83 
7.94 
8.46 
9,45 
8,40 
8.36 
9.94 

7.98 
7.70 
9.16 
9.27 
9.40 
11.19 
10. 15 

8.24 

7.04 

10.37 

10.77 

9.86 

11.10 

8.54 
9.59 
8.66 
8.43 
8.78 
9.75 
11.33 

8.15 

&69 

V.  93 

12.09 

7.19 

9.f>6 

11.56 

11.10 

11.10 

11.93 

&30 

10.71 
11.29 

9.53 
10.84 
12.46 
10.60 

8.48 
11.31 

9.46 
11.33 
12.05 


Gross. 


$10.00 
12.50 
6.90 
13.50 
11.00 
10.00 
12.50 

13.50 
10.00 
10.00 
10.00 
13.00 
13.50 

10.50 
7.50 
9.00 

10.50 

10.00 
10.00 

8.55 
11.60 
16,00 

8.50 
10.00 
10.00 
14.00 
11.50 
10.00 
13.50 

10.00 
10,00 
12.00 
12.50 
13.60 
15.00 
13.50 

10.00 
8.50 
14.50 
,  13. 48 
12.50 
15.00 

11.00 
13.50 
11.00 
10.00 
12.00 
11.50 
16.00 

10.00 
11.00 
12.50 
17.50 
9.00 
13.60 
16.50 
13.49 
15.50 
17.50 
10.50 

16.50 
16.50 
12.50 
15.00 
17.50 
13.00 
10.00 
13.48 
12.50 
15.00 
16.50 


Net. 


19.18 
11.82 

6.90 
12.55 
10.23 

9.30 
11.63 

12.54 
9.30 
9.30 
10.00 
11.83 
12.60 

9.74 
7.50 
8.37 
9.77 

9.18 

9.18 

8.55 

10.70 

14.86 

7.72 

9.18 

9.46 

13.06 

10.70 

9.25 

12.83 

9.30 

9.30 

11.16 

12.13 
12.56 
13.65 
12.55 

9.18 
8.50 
13.48 
13.48 
11.85 
14.25 

10.09 
12.56 
10.01 
9.8i 
11.16 
11.50 
14.86 

9.08 
10.09 
11.60 
16.26 

9.00 
12.49 
15.01 
13.49 
14. 41 
16.26 

9.53 

15.61 
15.39 
11.47 
14.02 
16.26 
12.09 
9.30 
13.48 
11.63 
13.95 
15.67 


Table  17&^Relation  of  cloth  cost  to  total  cost  of  suits— Details  for  all  specimen  gar- 
meTUs—Cost  of  cloth  per  yard,  yardage,  net  selling  price  of  suit,  and  details  of  cost— Con. 


II 


Refer- 
ence 
No. 


140. 
127. 
128. 
110. 
125. 
84.. 

71.. 

104. 
04.. 
105. 
123. 

97.. 
108. 

C5. . 
149. 
115. 
141. 
49.. 
92.. 
143. 

124. 
119. 
106. 
114. 

112. 
142. 
66.. 
139. 

100. 
81.. 

102. 
154. 
145. 

152., 

107., 

80.. 

132., 

122., 

148.. 

147.. 

82... 
150.. 
146.. 
153.. 
101.. 
120.. 

144.. 

136.. 
137.. 
126.. 
138.. 

155.. 
151.. 
161.. 
162.. 
116.. 
156.. 


165. 
157. 
160. 
158. 
163. 

166. 
167. 
169. 

159. 
164. 
168. 


Cloth 
cost  i)er 
yard  net. 


11.38 
1.38 
1.40 
1.40 
1.40 
1.40 

1  42 
1.42 
1.43 
1.43 
1.43 
1.45 
1.45 

1.48 
1.48 
1.49 
1.49 
1.50 
1.50 
1.50 

1.51 
1.51 
1.51 
1.53 

1.58 
1.58 
1.60 
1.60 

1,62 
1.63 

1.67 
1.67 

1.68 

1.71 
1.75 
1.75 
1.75 
1.75 
1.75 
1.75 

1.78 
1.78 
1.78 
1.78 
1.80 
1.80 

1.85 
1.85 
1.85 
1.85 
1,88 

1.91 
1.96 
1.96 
1.97 
2.00 
2.00 

2.11 
2.13 
2.24 
2.25 
2.25 

2.28 
2.35 
2.36 

2.55 
2.75 
2.76 


Yards 
per  suit. 


$3.50 
3.625 
3.42 
3.625 
3.625 
3.66 

3.50 

3.625 

3.375 

3.42 

3.42 

3.50 

3.50 

3.375 

3. 625 

3.50 

3.75 

3.375 

3.50 

3.625 

3.42 
3.42 
3.50 
3.625 

3.42 
3.625 
3.375 
3.625 

3.375 
3.375 

3.66 
3.66 
3.625 

3.47 

3.50 

3.50 

3.50 

3.50 

3.025 

3.625 

3.375 

3.42 

3.47 

3.50 

3.375 

3.50 

3.50 

3.625 

3.625 

3.66 

3.625 

3.50 
3.42 
3.50 
3.66 
3.50 
3.50 

3.375 

3.625 

3.50 

3.42 

3.625 

3.60 

3.625 

3.437 

3.625 
3.625 
3.50 


Total 
cloth 
cost. 


$4.  SI 
4.98 
4.79 
5.08 
5.08 
5.12 

4.97 
5.15 
4.  S3 
4.89 
4.89 
5.08 
5.08 


00 

36 


5.22 


59 
06 
25 


5.44 

5.16 
5.16 
5.28 
5.55 

5.38 
5.71 
5.40 
5.78 

5.47 
5.49 

6.12 
6.12 
6.07 

5.94 
6.13 
6.13 
6.13 
6.13 
6.34 
6.35 

6.01 
6.09 
6.17 
6.22 
6.08 
6.30 

6.48 
«.71 
6.71 
6.77 
6.80 

6.69 
6.70 
6.86 
7.22 
7.00 
7.00 

7.12 
7.70 
7,84 
7.70 
8.16 

8.15 
8,52 
8,11 

9,25 
9.97 
9.66 


Trim- 
mings 

cost. 


$2.60 
2..70 
2.57 
2.31 
2.10 
2.36 

1.64 
3.17 
2.00 
2.57 
2.57 
2.13 
2.29 

2.00 
2.64 
2.22 
3.00 
1.35 
2.00 
2.65 

2.57 
2.57 
2.40 
3.01 

2.57 
2.46 
2.00 
2.60 


2. 
2. 


40 

15 


2.51 
2.77 
3.00 

3.01 
1.68 
2.25 
2.35 
2.50 
2.90 
2.70 

2.15 
2.95 
3.01 
3.39 
2.40 
2.25 

2.84 
3.41 
3.41 
2.55 
3.09 

3.14 
2.95 
2.78 
2.81 
2.70 
2.85 

3.11 
3.05 
3.23 
3.50 
3.75 

2.93 
6.18 
3.26 

3.18 
3.15 
3.23 


Total 

material 

cost. 


$7.41 
7.68 
7.'36 
7.39 
7.18 
7.48 

0.61 
8.32 
6.83 
7.46 
7.46 
7.21 
7.37 

7.00 
8.00 
7.44 
8.59 
6.41 
7.25 
8.09 

7.73 
7.73 
7.68 
8.56 

7.95 
8.17 
7.40 
8.38 

7.87 
7.64 

8.63 
8.89 
9.07 

8.95 
7.81 
8.38 
8.48 
8.63 
9.24 
9.05 

8.16 
9.04 
9.18 
9.61 
8.48 
8.55 


Direct 
labor 
cost. 


$5.32 
6.47 
4.94 
3.  ,38 
4.12 
3.24 

2.50 
3.25 
3.04 
3.73 
3.72 
3.25 
3.77 

3.04 
5.41 
3.05 
5.02 
2.08 
2.90 
5.41 

4.12 
3.72 
3.49 
3.15 

3.72 
5.72 
3.04 

4.12 

3.31 
3.23 

3.59 
5.82 
4.60 

4.67 
2.50 
2.80 
4.36 
5.03 
4.28 
5.46 

3.23 
3.72 
4.16 
5.20 
3.31 
3.30 


9.32 

4.19 

10.12 

3.50 

10.12 

7.20 

9.32 

3.84 

9.89 

3.80 

9.83 

4.17 

9.05 

4.12 

9.64 

4.71 

10.03 

5.88 

9.70 

3.05 

9.85 

4.99 

10.23 

7.37 

10.75 

5.51 

11.07 

4.39 

11.20 

4.12 

11.91 

4.28 

11.08 

5.57 

14.70 

4.10 

11.37 

6.08 

12.43 

4.10 

13.12 

5.56 

12.89 

4.92 

Total  cost 

of  material 

and  direct 

labor. 


$12. 73 
13.15 
12.30 
10.77 
11.30 
10.72 

9.11 
11.57 

9.87 
11.19 
11.18 
10.46 
11.14 

10.04 
13.41 
10.49 
13.61 
8.49 
10.15 
13.50 

11.85 
11.45 
11.17 
11.71 

11.67 
13.89 
10.44 
12.50 

11.18 
10.87 

12.22 
14.71 
13.67 

13.62 
10.31 
11.18 
12.84 
13.66 
13.52 
14.51 

11.39 
12.76 
13.34 
14.81 
11.79 
11.85 

13.51 
13.62 
17.32 
13.16 
13.69 

14.00 
13.77 
14.35 
15.91 
12.75 
14.84 

17.60 
16.26 
15.46 
15.32 
16..  19 

16.65 
18.80 
17.45 

16.53 

18.68 
17.81 


Wholesale  selling 
price. 


Gross. 


$18.50 
16.50 
16.50 
14.50 
16.50 
13.50 

12.50 
15.00 
12.50 
15.00 
16.50 
14.50 
14.00 

12.50 
20.00 
15.50 
18.50 
10.00 
14.00 
18.00 

15.25 
16.00 
15.00 
15.50 

15.50 
18.50 
12.50 
18.50 

15.00 
13.50 

15.00 
21.00 
18.50 

20.00 
15.00 
12.50 
16.00 
16.50 
20.00 
20.00 

13.50 
20.00 
19.50 
20.50 
15.00 
16.00 

18.50 
18.00 
18.00 
16.50 
18.00 

21.00 
20.00 
23.00 
23.50 
15.00 
22.00 

24.50 
22.00 
22.50 
22.00 
24.00 

25.00 
25.00 
26.00 

22.00 
25.00 
25.00 


Net. 


817.19 
15.34 
15.38 
14.07 
15.31 
12.53 

11.63 
13.95 
11.47 
13.95 
15  14 
13.48 
14.00 

11.47 
18.58 
14.42 
17.20 
10.00 
13.02 
17.38 

15.25 
14.88 
13.95 
14.41 

14.35 
17.20 
11.47 
17.17 

13.76 
12.39 

13.92 
19.51 
17.57 

18.66 
13.95 
12.25 
16.00 
15.01 
18.56 
18.20 

12.39 
18.60 
18.19 
19.47 
13.76 
14.88 

17.51 
16.74 
10.74 
15.31 
16.74 

19.59 
18.60 
21.36 
21.85 
14.70 
20.02 

22.76 

20.02 

21.30 

20.46' 

22.27 

23.22 
23.25 
24.15 

20.46 
22.75 
23.66 


882 


BIPOBT  OF  TARIFF   BOABD  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


Table  17b. — Relaiion  of  chth  emt  to  total  emt  of  overcoats — DetmU  fat  all  gpedmm 

ffttrmmti^Cost  of  doth  per  yard,  ywda^,  mi  mUiny  price  of  overeoai,  and  details 

cj  cost, 

[ArrmigCMi  accordinf  to  dotli  cost  per  'yard.] 


encO'  No. 


5.. 

15. 
13. 
2.. 
1.. 

4,- 

8.. 

3«a 

16. 
10. 

9-. 

10. 

6.. 

7.. 
11 

18- 
20. 

IS.. 

22. 
20. 
14. 
30. 
21. 

17. 
27. 
2«. 

26. 
35. 

25. 

28. 

38. 
38. 

31 

32. . 

43. 

34. 

37. 
39. 

40. 
41. 

43. 
44. 
45. 


aotii 

cost  w,r 

yard, 

net. 

Yw<ii 

per 

overcoat. 

Total 
clotli 
cost. 

10.70 

3.00 

12.10 

.80 
.81 
.82 
.85 

2.00 
3.06 
2.26 
2.625 

160 
3.48 
186 
2.24 

.86 
.86 
.90 

2. 75 
3.00 
3.00 

1.37 
2.57 
XTO 

.95 
.95 

3.06 

3.125 

2.91 

2.97 

108 

hCRS 
106 

2,21 
2.50 
2.875 

2.28 
2.50 

3.QQ 

106 

llfl 

3.00  . 
3.25 

3.17 
3.58 

111 
1.13 
113 

3.42 
2.50 
2.875 

3.70 

Z82 

3.23 

125 
130 
140 

140 
143 
190 

2.75 

2.625 

xoo 

8.06 

2.50 
2.« 

3.44 
3.41 

4.20 
4.30 
3.58 
3.75 

lie 

160 
1.63 

1.71 
1.75 

3.00 

2.875 
3.00 
2.75 
2.75 

4.73 
4.00 

488 
4.70 
4.81 

1« 
192 
IM 
2.00 
2.00 

2.50 
2.50 
3.06 

2.47 
2.75 

4.80 
4.80 
5.94 
4.94 
5.50 

2.03 
2.06 
2.10 
2.14 

2.50 
2.50 

2.76 
2.60 

6.08 
6.08 
6.78 
6.35 

2.50 
2.50 
2.70 

2.75 

2.75 
2.75 
3.06 
2.75 

6.88 
6.88 
8.27 
7.56 

3.30 

4.05 
5.18 

2.875 

2.50 
2.50 

9.49 

10.13 
12.95 

Trim- 

minip 

cost. 


12.15 

3.^37 
2.06 
167 

I*  oNi 

185 

3. 16 
3.15 

2.60 

3.60 

181 

2.50 

XS7 

X50 

3..  06 
4k  18 
3.  X4 
3.46 
3.60 
3.60 

3.22 
4.33 
2.05 

X85 
5.30 

3.60 
3.60 
3.55 
4.50 
3.50 

9.60 
3.60 
8.05 
460 

3.50 
4.15 
3.55 
6.10 

4.65 

8.90 

10.10 


Totia 

material 
cost. 


il2& 

8..  §7 
6.43 
3.58 
3.68 

432 

468 

6.07 
6.12 

%*  wi 

6.10 
488 


Direct 

labor 

cost> 


1153 

434 

2.55 
1. 25 

132 

2.54 
1.G9 
143 

2.90 
2.59 

2.05 
3.72 
187 


8.67 

5.00 

2.26 
132 

6.36 

6.42 

6.73 

4.94 
3.11 
2.50 

6.40 
7.60 

7.44 
7.74 
7.18 
7.35 

444 
3.36 
3.36 
3.40 

3.72 
3.72 

7.95 
&9B 
lwS8 

8.55 

lau 

2.36 
2.93 
2.50 
3.00 
454 

8.40 
8.40 
0.40 
0.44 

0.00 

3.72 
3.72 
4  58 
2.60 
4  54 

8.08 

8.68 

13.83 

0.86 

3.72 
3.72 
3.11 
3.72 

10.38 
11.03 
11.82 
13.66 

4  49 
2.86 
45l 
454 

1414 

19.03 
23.06 

8.06 

3.72 
3.72 

Total  cost 

of  material 

and  direct 

labor. 


15.78 

8.31 

7.98 
477 
5.00 

6.80 
6.37 

5.98 

8.97 

8.71 

7.02 
9.91 
6.20 

7.93 

6. 32 

11.30 
0.83 
8.23 

10.93 
ia95 

If*  cHl 

1114 

10.90 
1107 

lasi 

0.43 
1155 
1465 

12.12 

12.12 
14.07 
12.04 
13.  M 

12.40 
12.40 
16.94 
13.57 

14.87 
13.89 
16. 40 
18.20 

17.19 

26.17 


Wholesale  selling 


Gross. 


Net. 


10.00 

12. 50 

11.50 

7.50 

6.75 

10.00 

7.50 

13.50 
ia50 

10.00 

13.50 

O.00 

10.00 
10.50 

13.25 
13.50 
ILOO 

15.00 
16.50 
12.50 
16.50 
13.50 
15.00 

13.50 
16.00 
15.00 
15.50 
2a  00 

15.  .50 
Hi.  00 
20.00 
20.00 
18.00 

17.50 
17.50 
24  50 
18.00 

20.00 
20.00 
25.  (X) 
25.00 

24.00 
34.00 
40.00 


88.64 

11.38 

10.46 

6.97 

6.48 

0.26 

7.73 
7.50 

12.28 
9.93 

9.30 

12.55 

8.64 

9.10 
10.06 

12.40 
12.55 

10.23 

13.66 
15.01 
11.33 
15.01 
12.56 
13.96 

14.88 
13.96 

14.66 
18. '20 

14.35 
14.88 
IS.  20 
18.60 

16.33 

16.27 
10.28 
Zi.  18 

10.74 

IS.  20 
19.40 
22.75 
22.75 

23.33 
31.62 

37.20 


»TMs  entry  represents  dlirct  labor  where  the  manufacturer  hai  his  own  shops;  otherwiK  it  stands  tor 
tie  direct  labor  fa  the  cutting  room  plus  the  amount  p&ld  to  contractors  for  making  up  tlie  garuieats. 


BEPOET  OF   TAEIFF  BOARD  ON"  SCHEDULE  K. 


883 


Table  17c.— Hclaiion  of  doth  cost  to  total  cost  of  pants— Details  for  all  specimen  gar- 
menu — Cost  of  cloth  per  yard,  yardage,  net  selling  price  of  pants,  and  details  of  cost. 

[Arraagad  acooxdiag  to  cloth  cost  per  yard.] 


Refer- 

Cloth 

cost 

per  yard, 

net. 

Yards 
per  pants. 

Total 

cloth  cost. 

Trim- 
mings 
cost. 

Total 

material 

cost. 

Direct 

labor 

cost.i 

Total  cost 

of  material 

and  direct 

labor. 

Wholesale  selling 
price. 

ence  Xo. 

Gross. 

Net. 

• 

1 

2 

6 

3 

4 

7 

6 

8 

9 

10 

to.  58 
.63 

.83 
.85 
.90 

1.03 
1.25 
140 
1.70 
2.00 

126 
134 
134 
1.22 
129 

134 
129 
129 
129 
134 

fa  72 

.84 
1.11 
104 
1.16 

1.37 
1.61 
181 
2.19 
2.68 

10.14 
.13 
.16 
.20 
.20 

.18 
.22 
.26 
.25 
.23 

10.86 

.97 

127 

124 

136 

155 
1.83 
2.06 
2.44 
2.91 

80.30 
.52 
.68 
.39 
.39 

.57 
.49 
.58 
.58 
.65 

1116 
149 
1.85 
1.63 
175 

2.12 
2.32 
2.64 
3.02 
3.56 

$150 
2.00 
2.50 
2.25 
2.25 

3.00 
3.00 
3.50 
400 
5.00 

$135 

1.80 
2.28 
2.09 
2.09 

2.73 
2.70 
3.15 
3.64 
455 

CONCLUSIONS   AS    TO   MEN's    CLOTHING. 

The  complete  investigation  of  men's  clothing  indicates  that  at 
least  40  per  cent  of  the  wholesale  selling  price  of  garments  is  expended 
on  cloth  and  woolen  Imings.  Assuming  retail  prices  to  be  at  least 
50  per  cent  higher  than  wholesale  prices,  it  is  clear  that  about  25  per 
cent  of  the  price  paid  by  the  consumer  of  ready-made  clothing  goes 
for  woolens.  The  data  collected  also  indicated  further  that  the  cost 
of  woolens  is  considerably  more  important  m  the  popular-priced 
garments  having  wide  sale  than  in  more  expensive  clothing. 

COMPLETE    COST  OF  TYPICAL   MEN's    GARMENTS. 

The  board  now  presents  certain  typical  specimens  of  men's  clothing, 
traced  not  only  through  the  processes  of  clothing  manufacture,  but 
followed  through  cloth  making  and  the  manufacture  of  yarn  as  well. 
In  two  cases,  one  where  the  fabric  is  a  worsted  and  one  where  the 
fabric  is  a  woolen,  the  costs  are  carried  through  to  the  yam.  In  one 
suit  tlie  costs  are  extended  through  to  the  raw  wool  itself.  These 
are  tj^pical,  and  it  is  therefore  not  deemed  necessary  to  trace  the 
others  beyond  the  manufacture  of  the  cloth  that  goes  into  the 
garments.  There  have  been  selected  for  such  detail  five  3-piece  suits 
representing  the  five  general  grades  of  manufacture.     These  are — 

A. — Regular  wholesale  price ^iq  5q 

Net  wholesale  price  (average  realized ) is!  39 

Retail  price * '     23  00 

B. — ^Regular  wholesale  price j 9  50 

Net  wholesale  price  (avemgo  realized ) 11  66 

Retail  price -'.*-".*'.'.'.".'.*.'.".".".  18.00 

C. — WTiolesale  price  (net) k  ka 

Retail  price.......... -■--"."-■."-'."-*.::::::::::::;:   i% 

D . — Retail  price g  35 

E. — Regular  wholesale  price 24. 00 

Net  wholesale  price  (average  realized) .' [  [  22.  27 

Retail  price .....**.*""  35.  00 

There  is  also  given  a  standard  single-breasted  overcoat — 

F. — ^Regular  wholesale  price 513  59 

Net  wholesale  price  (average  realized) .V....V.\.....     12.  55 

Retail  price ]"*"""!!]     20.  00 

»  This  entry  represents  direct  labor  where  the  manufacturer  has  his  own  shops;  otherwise  it  stands  for 
the  dii-ect  labor  m  the  cutting  room  plus  the  amount  paid  to  contractors  lor  making  up  the  garments. 


el 

1*1 

m 


884 


BEPORT  OF  TABIFF  BOABB  OK  SCHEDiri.E  K. 


These  retaU  prices  are  taken  as  50  per  cent  more  than  the  net 
wholesale  price,  which  the  board  considers  a  fair  estimate  of  the 
lowest  figures  at  which  such  garments  are  sold.  In  certam  cases  it 
has  been  found  that  the  retail  price  ran  much  higher  than  this  50 

per  cent. 

A. — Thkbe-Piece  Sutt. 

■Reinilar  wholesale  price,  $16.50.        ,    .       ,    ,       .  ,.  *\  •ikjo 

Net  wholesale  price  (amount  realized  after  deducting  average  discount),  115.39. 

Retail  price,  $23  and  up. 
Cloth:  Fancy  worsted. 

Chthing  manufacture. 

COST  OF  STOCK. 

Trimmings:  Body  lining,  tO.SSJ  per  yard;  f  f  J®  Jj.^»!Jf » J?-V\?*^r  Jf v^J^t  n  4'> 
Number  of  yards  of  cloth  per  suit:  (a)  Coat  1.8;  (6)  pants,  1.45,  (c)  vest,  0.45. 
Cost  of  cloth  used  in  suit:  (o)  Per  yard,  J1.328:  (6)  total,  f4.78. 


Items. 


Cost  of  cloth 

Cost  of  trimmings.. 

Credit  waste 

Total  stock  cost 
Add  freight 

Total 


Coat. 


1.963 


4.353 
.024 


4.329 
.025 


4.354 


Pants. 


$1. 793 
.278 


2.071 
.018 


2.053 
.019 


2.072 


CONVERSION  COST. 


Items. 


Coat. 


Sponging  and  examining 

Cutting 

Trimming 

Fitting 

Operating 

Basting 

Finishing 

Button  sewing 

Buttonholes 

Pressing 

Busheling 

Miscellaneous 

Examining  finished  product . . 


Total  productive  labor. 


2.230 


Pants. 


SO.  040 

10.030 

.146 

.109 

.034 

.025 

.0.55 

.010 

.380 

.2.55 

.818 

.035 

.345 

.138 

.037 

.040 

.130 

.450 

.150 

.068 

.050 

.210 

jm 

.017 

.013 

Vest. 


10.010 

.a37 

.008 
.030 
.188 
.060 
.027 
.023 
.107 
.123 
.025 
.005 
.004 


.863 


.647 


SUMMARY. 


Items. 


Total  stock  cos  t '  • 

Conversion  c^st .--•.•--■- 

Factory  expense  distributed  to  eacli  garment  on  ba-sis  of  pro- 
ductive labor  in  each  garment 


Total  factory  cost - -  — 

Selling  and  general  expense  distributed  to  each  garment  on 
basis  of  ratio  of  totafselling  and  general  expense  to  total 
value  of  output 


Final  cost  (factory  cost  plus  selling  and  general  expense). 


Coat. 


t4.3M 
2.230 

.669 


7.253 


Pants. 


12.072 
.863 

.259 


3.194 


Vest. 


$1. 124 
.647 

.194 


1.965 


Vest. 


.527 


1.124 
.006 


1.118 
.006 


1.124 


Suit. 


SO.  OS 
.292 
.067 
.095 
.823 
.413 
.510 
.100 
.237 
.723 
.143 
.228 
.034 


3.740 


Suit. 


17.550 
3.740 

1.122 


12. 412 
1.908 


14.320 


I 


EEPOKX  OF  TABIFF  BO.UEID  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


885 


Cloth  making. 

Name  of  cloth:  Fancy  worsted  suiting. 

Number  of  warp  ends  to  1  inch 73 

Number  of  picks  to  1  inch 61 

Width  in  reed 65^ 

Width  of  goods  finished 57 

Weight  of  cloth  per  yard 1 1  j^^ 

Pounds  of  cloth  to  1,000  yards 693f 


COST  OF  STOCK 

FOR  1,000  YARDS. 

Items. 

Kind  of 
yarn. 

Count  of 
yam. 

Pounds. 

Cost  of 
yam  per 
pound. 

Total 
cost. 

Warp:  39,92  ends 

iblood.... 
Silk- 

-  2/40 

60/2 

394.7 
3.4 

$1.06 
3.90 

$418.38 

152  ends 

13  26 

4,144  ends 

Waste 

10.0 

351.0 

8.8 

10.60 

Wcft:61  picks 

Jblood.... 
Waste 

2/40 

1.06 

372  06 

9.33 

Total  stock 

767.9 

823  63 

CONVERSION  COST  FOR  1,000  YARDS. 

Productive  or  direct  labor  is  actual  labor  applied  directly  to  stock  in  its  conversion,  including  proportion 
of  wages  paid  to  second  hands  and  subforcmen  properly  chargeable  to  eacrh  department. 

Nonproductive  or  indirect  labor  is  indirect  labor  employed  in  department,  tnchiding  overseers,  foremen, 
carriers,  etc.,  but  not  including  general  and  repair  labor,  which  are  provided  for  under  general  expense. 

Department  materials  are  materials  other  than  stock  used  in  department;  for  example,  soap  for  scouring, 
oil  for  oiling  stock,  dyes  and  chemicals  for  dyeing,  etc. 


Items. 


Dressing  (including  drawing  in). 

Weaving 

Burling 

Mending 

Remcnaing,  si)eclcing,  etc 

Dyeing  and  fiuishmg 

General  expense 


Total  conversion  cost. 
Cost  of  stock 


Net  manufacturing  cost  1,000  yards. 


Productive 

or  direct 

labor. 


$10. 94 

122.00 

10.00 

28.00 

4.50 


Nonproduc- 
tive 
or  indirect 
labor. 


$1.56 

38.00 

1.00 

1.00 

.50 


Depart- 
ment 
materials. 


$6.00 
11.20 


Total 
cost. 


$18.50 

171.20 

11.00 

29.00 

5.00 

55.00 

152.00 


441.70 
823.63 


1,265.33 


Manufacturing  cost  per  yard $i.  265 

Selling  price  per  yard  (net) 1. 328 

Spinning  1,000  pounds  of  worsted  yarn  No.  2140. 

COST  OF  STOCK. 

Pounds  tops  required  for  manufacture  of  1,000  pounds  yam 1436 

Cost  of  tops  per  pound $0. 77 

Total  cost  of  tops $874. 72 

CONVERSION  COST. 


•It^ms. 


Drawing. 
Spinning. 


Twisting. 

Spooling 

Warping  on  Jack  spools. 
General  expense 


Total  conversion  cost. 
Cost  of  stock 


Less  credit  waste,  85,  at  $0.37 

Net  manufacturing  cost  (1,000  pounds). 


Pounds  of 
material 
entering 

each 
process. 


1,136 
1,090 

i,o;i7 

1.020 
1,010 


Productive 

or  direct 

labor. 


$20.18 
29.31 
24. 54 
11.37 
12.51 


97.91 


Nonpro- 
ductive or 
indirect 
labor. 


$1.62 

1.80 

1.02 

.75 

.75 


5.94 


Total 
cost. 


$21.80 
31.11 
25.56 
12.12 
13.28 

110.08 


213.93 

874. 72 


31.45 


1,057.20 


Manufacturing  cost  per  pound $1.06 

32080**— H.  Doc.  342, 62-2,  vol  2 18 


886  BIFOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDULB  K. 

Top  moling. 
COST  OF  STOCK  ENTERING  MANUFACTURE  OF  1,000  POUNDS  OF  TOPS. 


Items. 


Raw  wool:  Half-blood  Ohio  (unwashed) 

Less  credit  noils  and  waste 

Less  credit  waste 


Net  total. 


Pounds. 


3,125 

ISO 

60 


PtIo©  per 
pound. 


Tot^ 
cost. 


10.25 
.32 
.17 


} 


1781.25 
66.10 


715. 15 


CONVERSION  COST  1,000  POUNDS  OF  TOPS. 


Itema. 


Sorting  and  blending:. 
Soouririi' 1. 


Carding 

Combing 

General  expense. 


Total  conversion  cost 

Oosrt"  of  ^^toolc 

Total  manufacturing  cost  (1,0U0  pounds). 


Material 
entering 

each 
process. 


Founds. 
3.125 
3.125 
1,250 
1,200 


Productive 

or  direct 

labor. 


17.22 
3.37 


„l,^ 


Nonpro- 
ductive or 
indirect 
labor. 


Depart- 
ment 
materials. 


15.18 

.61 

1.22 


16.56 


2.60 


15.47 


7.01 


9.16 


Total 

cost. 


S18.96 

3.98 

8.70 

23.82 


55. 4e 
715.15 
770.61 


ManutMjtuiing  cost  per  pound W.  77 

CX)8T  OF  WOOL. 

The  cloth  in  this  suit  is  made  of  half-blood  Ohio  wool.  It  is  esti- 
mated that  such  wool  grown  in  the  Ohio  region  during  1910  carried 
an  average  flock  expense  charge  of  at  least  16  cents  a  pound.  This 
does  not  include  interest  on  the  investment  in  the  sheep;  and  all 
profits  above  bare  production  cost  of  the  crops  fed  to  the  flock  is 
eliminated.  For  this  wool  23  cents  a  pound  was  received  by  the 
grower.  The  cost  at  the  mill  was  25  cents  a  pound.  The  amount 
of  wool  required  for  each  yard  of  cloth  going  into  this  suit  is  2.7 
pounds.  As  it  required  3.6  yards  of  cloth  to  make  the  suit,  the  amount 
of  wool  in  the  whole  suit  would  be  9.7  pounds.  At  a  cost  of  16  cents 
a  pound,  the  total  cost  of  raising  the  wool  for  tliis  suit  would  be  $1.55. 
Out  of  25  cents  per  pound,  the  price  paid  by  the  manufacturer,  the 
woolgrower  would  receive  $2.23,  or  a  margm  of  68  cents.  Wliile  the 
average  Ohio  flock  covered  by  the  board's  investigation,  as  reported 
elsewhere^  consists  of  about  200  sheep,  shearing  an  average  of  7.6 
pounds  of  wool,  the  general  flock  average  of  the  entire  State  is  but  55, 
and  the  general  shearing  average  of  the  State  6.5  pounds  per  head. 
Using  this  as  a  basis,  it  appears  that  at  23  cents  per  pound  selling 
price  there  would  be  a  return  of  $1.49  J  per  fleece,  the  actual  cost  of 
which  was  not  less  than  $1.04,  leaving  an  apparent  profit  of  45i  cents 
per  fleece.  This  indicates  that  the  owner  of  55  average  sheep  of 
shearing  age  in  the  average  flock  would  receive  $25.02  as  the  proceeds 
of  a  year's  maintenance. 


I' 


BfiPOBT  OF   TABIFF  BOABD   ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


B.— Three-Piece  Suit. 


887 


Regular  wholesale  price,  $12.50. 

Net  wholesale  price  (amount  realized  after  deducting  average  discount),  $11.66. 
,  Retail  price,  f  18  and  up. 
Cloth:  Fancy  woolen. 

Clothing  manufacture. 

COST  OF  STOCK. 

Trimminps:  Body  Ilnlnj?,  $0.3*?J  per  vard;  sleeve  lininp,  $0.18  per  yard. 
Number  of  yards  of  cloth  used  per  suit:  Coat,  1.83;  pants,  1.37;  vest,  0.45. 
Cost  of  cloth  used  in  suit,  per  yard  10.78,  total  $2,847. 


Items. 

Coat. 

Pants. 

Vest. 

Cost  of  cloth 

11.427 

1.602 

.024 

$1,068 
.278 
.018 

$0  352 

Trimmings 

.377 

Less  credit  waste ' 

OOS 

Total  stock  cost 

3.005 
.025 

1.328 
.019 

723 

Freight 

noft 

Total  cost 

3.030 

1.347 

r?q 

CONVERSION  COST. 


Sponging  and  exaraininK 

Cutting 

Trimming 

Fitting 

Operating 

Basting 

Finishing 

Button  sewing 

Buttonholes 

Pressing 

Busheling 

Miscellaneous 

Examining  finished  product. 


Total  productive  Ixhor. 


$0.04 

$0,030 

.146 

.109 

.034 

.025 

.055 

.008 

.400 

.227 

.303 

.023 

.200 

.137 

.(S5 

.030 

.110 
.372 

.128 

.070 

.032 

.118 

.005 

.017 

.013 

1.900 

.767 

$0,010 
.087 
.008 
.030 
.180 
.038 
.022 
.013 
.08g 
.117 
.020 
.003 
.004 


.575 


SUMMARY. 


Net  stock  cost 

(Conversion  cost 

Factory  expense  distributed  to  each  garment  ou  basis  of  pro- 
ductive labor  in  each  garment 


Total  factory  cost 

Belling  and  general  expense  distributed  on  basis  of  ratio  of  total 
ielling  and  general  expense  to  total  value  of  output 


Final  cost  (factory  cost  plus  selling  and  general  expense). 


Coat. 


$3,030 
1.900 

.570 


5.500 


Pants. 


$1,347 

.767 

.230 


2.344 


Vest. 


$0,729 
.575 

.172 


1.476 


Suit. 


$5,106 
3.242 

.972 


9.320 
1.445 


10.765 


Cloth  milking. 

DESCRIPTION  OF  CLOTH. 
Name  of  cloth:  Fancy  woolen. 

Number  of  warp  ends  to  1  inch 35 

Number  of  picks  to  llnch 24 


Width  In  reed. 


64J 


Width  of  finished  goods 55 

Weight  of  cloth  per  yard ]]!.!![!" 24 

Pounds  of  cloth  to  1,000  yards ".!!!!.!!!."!!!!.".!..".....  1, 500 

COST   OF  STOCK  FOR  1,000  YARDS   OF  CLOTH. 


Kind  of  yarn. 

Count  of 
yarn. 

Pounds. 

Cost  of 

yarn  per 

pound. 

Total 
cost. 

Warp:  2.040  ends 

\  blood  and  shoddy . . . 
Waste 

IJrun... 

975 
58.6 

798 
52.07 

$0.29 

$282.75 
17  00 

W«f t :  24  picks 

}  blood  and  shoddy. . . 
waste 

limn... 

.29 

231.42 

Total  stock 

1,883.07 

546.27 

■"*«■ 


888        EEPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOAED  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 

Cloth  mGling — Continued. 

COXVERSION  COST,  1,000  YARDS. 

Prodiictivp  or  direct  laTioT  Is  actual  labor  applied  directly  to  stock  In  Its  conyeTslon,  bicltidtog  proportion 
of  waces  paid  to  second  hands  and  subforenieri  proi>erlv  chargea»)le  to  e.icii  department. 

NoPOToductive  or  indirwt  labor  is  indirect  labor  cmpioyed  in  department,  including  overseers,  foremen, 
earners  etc  .  but  not  Including  general  and  repair  labor,  which  are  provided  for  under  gtineral  expense. 

SStiSAt  S  materials  other  than  stoc-k.  used  iu  department;  for  example,  soap  for  scour- 

Ing,  oil  for  oiling  stock,  dyes  and  chemicals  for  dyeing,  etc. 


Prod  tic  tive 

or  direct 

labor. 


Spooling 

Dressing  (including  drawing  in) 

Weaving 

Burling 

Mending 

Ilemending,  specking,  etc 

Wet  flnishmg 

Dry  finishing  and  inspecting 

General  expense 


12. 10 

3.00 
30.11 
4.00 
5.00 
1.50 
5.00 
3.0O 


Total  conversion  cost. 

Cost  of  stock 

Less  credit  waste 


Net  manufacturing  cost,  1,000  yards. 


50.71 


Nonpro-        pepart- 

dUCtlve  or     rn«>nt  TnatB- 

Indirect     "^^^t  mate- 


labor. 


rials. 


$5.00 

I 

fi.oO 

5.00 


1.50 


Total  cost 

for  1,000 

yards. 


12.10 
3.00 

41.11 
4.00 
6.00 
1.50 
6.50 
3.00 

56.50 


122.71 

546.27 

7.50 


661.48 


Manufacturing  cost  per  yard ^-^"^A 

Selling  price  per  yard " 

Making  of  uoohn  yani—Xo.  1}  run  1,000  pounds. 
[Wool  and  shoddy.] 
COST  OF  STOCK. 


Fo-i^-j^JS' 

Total 
cost. 

fm          $0.26 
750              .05 

1216. 58 

Shoddy 

37.50 

Total 

1,683    

2.'>4.08 

...........    ......••.. 

51.36 

202.72 

£%V%  COSX. 1                           1 

COST  OF  CONVERSION. 


Sorting  and  picking  shoddy. 

Scouring 

Stock  dyeing 

Mixing  and  picking 

Carding 

Spinning 

General  expense 


Material 

Productive 

entering 

or  direct 

each  proc- 

labor. 

ess. 

Pounds. 

750 

SI.  88 

833 

.83 

1,250 

3.75 

:            1,250 

2.50 

1,250 

7.50 

1,066 

9.59 

Nonpro- 
ductive or 
indirect 
labor. 


Depart- 
ment mate- 
rials. 


SO.  60 
2.07 

21.25 
3.00 


Total  conversion  cost . 
Cost  of  slock 


26.05 


26.92 


Total 

cost. 


S2.48 
2.90 

25.00 
5.50 
7.50 
9.69 

35.00 


87.97 
202.72 


Total  manufacturing  cost,  1,000  yards. 


290.69 


Manufacturing  cost  per  yard. 


SO.  29 


•^ 


|( 


,. 


BEPORT  OF   TABIFF  BOARD   ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


889 


C— Thkee-Fiece  Suit. 


Wholesale  price  (net),  $5.50. 
Retail  price,  $8.50  and  up. 
Cloth:  Fancy  casaimere. 


Clotkmg  manufacture. 


SUIT. 


Stock  cost: 

Trimming:  Cotton  Italian  lining;  cotton  sleeve  lining. 
Number  of  yards  of  cloih  used  in  suit,  ?>\. 

Cost  of  cloth,  per  yard,  $0.65.     Totiil  cost 

Cost  of  trimmmgs 


Total  stock  cost. 
Labor  cost: 


$2.11 
LOO 

3.11 


Items. 


Sponging,  examining  and  cutting 

Making  (contract  price)  coat  SO.  70,  imntsSO.30,  vest  SO. 23. 
Overliead  factory  expense 


Suit. 


SO.  03 
1.23 

.09 


Total. 


1.35 


SUMMARY. 

Total  stock  cost $3. 11 

Conversion  cost 1-35 


Total  factory  cost :  -  -      4. 46 

Selling  expense  dLstributed  to  each  garment  on  basis  of  ratio  of  total  selling 
expense  to  total  value  of  output 25 

General  expense  distributed  to  each  garment  on  basis  of  ratio  of  total  general 
expense  to  total  value  of  output 25 

Final  cost  (factory  cost  plus  selling  and  general  expense) 4.  96 

Cloth  making. 

Stock $0,425 

Spooling,  doubling,  and  twisting , 016 

Weaving - 068 

Burling,  mending,  and  specking — 025 

Finishmg 016 

General  expense 051 

Net  manufacturing  cost 601 

Selling  price - 65 

D. — Three-Piece  Suit. 
Wholesale  price  (net),  $9.35. 
Retail  price,  $15  and  up. 
Cloth:  Fancy  caaeimere. 

Clothing  manufacture. 

Stock  cost: 

Trimmings,  cotton  linings. 

Number  of  yards  of  cloth  used  in  suit,  3§. 

Cost  of  cloth  used  in  suit,  per  yard,  $0.83 ;  total  cost $2.  91 

Cost  of  trimmings 1. 19 

Total  stock  cost 4. 10 


Labor  cost: 

Sponging 04 

Cutting,  and  trimming 45 

Making  coat,  $0.85;  pants,  $0.40;  vest,  $0.31 1. 56 

Examining  finished  suit 03 

Overhead  factory  expense 44 

Total  manufacturing  cost 2.  52 


890        BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 

SUMMARY. 

Net  stock  cost 2  52 

Manufacturing  cost *" 

Total  factory  cost \'"."'r""'"VVl'{"  u' ' ' 

Selling  expense  distributed  to  each  garment  on  basis  of  ratio  of  total  eelimg 

expense  to  total  value  of  output ....... ...  -  - .  -  -  -  -  -■■-■-:      • 

General  expense  distributed  to  each  garment  on  basis  of  ratio  of  total  general 

expense  to  total  value  of  output ' 

Final  cost,  including  selling  and  general  exi>ense 8.  25 

•    Cloth  nmhing. 

Costperyard:  ^  r,^ 

Stock - Qlj 

Expense  to  weaving ^^ 

Weaving ;   -  - r^^ 

Burling,  mending,  and  linishmj? ^ 

General  expense '    ' 

791 

Net  manufacturing  cost ^^'■ 

Selling  price 

E.— Three-Fibck  Suit. 

Resrular  wholesale  price,  $21.  ,    .       ,    ,      .  j-  ,     ©o*)  ot 

Net  wholesale  price  (amount  realized  after  deducting  average  discount .,  $22.27. 

Retell  price,  $35  and  up. 
Cloth:  Fancy  woolen. 

Clothiiij  manufacture. 

Stock  cost: 

Trimmin£3:s„  serge  body  limngB. 

Number  of  yards  of  cloth  used  in  suit,  Sf. 

Costofclothused,  per  yard  $2.44,  total *»•  J^ 

Cost  of  trimmings '^ 

Freight ' 

Total  stock  cost 

Labor  cost:  q.^j 

Sponging  and  examining ^^ 

Cutting •-       'qqj 

Trimming - •  ■  -.- • q'  7«fi 

Making  coat.  $2.45;  pants,  $0.76;  vest,  $0.o7 ^- '^^ 

Total  productive  labor J^ 

SUMMARY. 

Net  stock  cost 7  9h 

Factor^^xpense'distributed  to  eac  h  garment  on  basis  of  productive  labor  in         ^^ 
each  garment ' 

Total  factory  cost - .-•-.--•:•-;:•■  */ * '  * ; *  •  V, •  •;,     ^^'  ^"^ 

Selling  expense  distributed  to  each  garment  on  basis  of  ratio  of  total  eeUing      ^ 

expense  to  total  value  of  output. • ' "  T  "  ■  " f " " f';"^'  ;,#; :.;;i  m  np'rVl      "" 

GeneJTil  expense  distributed  to  each  garment  on  l>asi3  of  ratio  of  total  general 
expense  to  total  value  of  output ___1. 

Final  cost  (factory  cost  plus  selling  and  general  expense) 20.  61 


Ati 


i 


1 


KEPOET  OF  TAKIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K.        891 

Cloth  making. 
Cost  per  yard:  ^^  ^^„ 

^tock $1-642 

Expense  to  weaving 054 

Weaving ™ 

Weaving  to  finished  cloth 228 

General  expense •  1^ 

Total  manufacturing  cost 2.  2G3 

Credit  waste -^^ 

Net  manufacturing  co^t 2. 259 

Selling  price 2.44 

F.— Single-Bre.\sted  Overcoat. 

Regular  wholesale  price,  $13,50. 

Net  wholesale  price  (average  realized  after  deducting  average  discount),  $12.55. 

Retail  price,  $20  and  up. 

Cloth:  Piece-dyed  fancy  worsted. 

Clothing  manufacture. 

Stock  cost: 

Trimmings,  mohair  lining,  satin  sleeve  lining,  linen  canvas. 
Number  of  yards  of  cloth  used  in  coat,  2}. 

Cost  of  cloth,  per  yard  $1.06,  total $2.65 

Cost  of  trimmings 3.  60 

Freight 04 

Less  credit  waste -O^ 

Total  stock  cost 6.26 

Labor  cost: 

Sponging  and  examining 020 

Cutting 300 

Trimming •  080 

Fitting 100 

Operafing , 566 

Basting "oJ- 

Finishing 784 

Button  sewing 040 

Buttonholes 160 

Pressing 596 

Busheling 060 

Examining  finished  product 020 

Factory  expense 760 

Total 4.167 

SUMMARY. 

Net  stock  cost $6. 260 

Conversion  cost 4. 170 

Selling  expense  distributed  on  basis  of  ratio  of  total  selling  expense  to  total 

value  of  output 608 

General  expense  distributed  on  basis  of  ratio  of  total  general  expense  to 

total  value  of  output .376 

Final  cost  (factory  cost  plus  selling  and  general  expense) 11. 414 

^    ^  J  Cloth  making, 

Costperyard:  ^ 

Stock $0,700 

Expense  to  weaving 016 

Weaving Q78 

Burling  and  mending 038 

Dyeing  and  finishing 080 

General  expense '090 

Total  manufacturing  expense 1.  002 

Less  credit  waste '001 

Net  manufacturing  cost 1. 001 

Selling  price 1*06 


1 

I 


I 


892 


BEPOBT  OF  TAEIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 

vomen's  clothing. 


The  women's  clothing  industry  in  general  presents  the  same 
characteristics  as  that  of  the  men's.  There  is  the  same  feature  of 
urban  concentration  and  in  even  a  higher  degre(\  Accordmg  to  the 
census  of  1910,  New  York  aty  alone  produced  $266,500,000  out  of  a 
total  of  $385,000,000,  the  proportion  of  that  city  being  over  two- 
thirds  of  the  entire  industry.  In  view  of  this  situation  it  was  deemed 
sufficient  to  restrict  the  present  investigation  to  that  center. 

The  follo^dng  table  shows  the  geographical  distribution  of  this 
industry  in  1905  and  in  1910: 

Table  1$.— Concentration  of  women's  cloUnng  industry,  1905  and  1910, 


Locality. 


United  States . 

New  York 

Philadelphia 

Chicago 

Cleyeland 


1W5 


1910 


Value  of 
product. 


Per  cent 
of  total, 
output. 


Value  of 
product. 


1247,661,560 

100.0 

$384,751,649 

100.0 

168,418,895 

t>8.0 

266, 477,  ri 

69.0 

12.871,357 

5.2 

30,132,842 

7.9 

ll.ti36,818 

4.8 

15,676.925 

4.3 

7,427,553 

3.0 

12,788,775 

3.3 

Per  cent 
of  total, 
output. 


Under  the  term  ''women's  clothing"  there  are  embraced  a  much 
larger  variety  of  products  of  the  needle  trades  than  under  the  term 
*' men's  clothing.''^  For  purposes  of  this  investigation  attention  was 
given  only  to  establishments  engaged  in  the  production  of  skirts, 
suits,  and  coats.  Even  here  the  industry  does  not  present  the  same 
simplicity  as  men's  clothing.  The  latter  is  made  for  the  most  part 
from  woolen  materials.  There  is,  however,  a  great  variety  and  range 
of  material  used  in  the  cloak  and  suit  industry,  and  changing  style 
and  fashion  play  an  important  part  in  the  material  used.  A  state- 
ment of  the  relative  importance  of  woolens  for  the  industry  m  one 
year,  or  for  one  season,  is,  therefore,  not  necessarily  descriptive  of  the 

general  situation.  v«!     ix 

In  women's  clotliing,  as  in  men's,  there  is  the  inherent  difficulty 
of  finding  any  standard  product  on  which  cost  of  production  can  be 
uniformly  obtained.  For  the  puipose  of  this  investigation  data  were 
secured  for  the  costs  of  production  on  coats,  skirts,  and  suits.  In 
general  the  same  methods  were  pursued  here  as  in  the  men's  m- 
dustry.  Data  were  obtained  for  specimen  garments  and  supple- 
mented by  statements  for  the  year's  business.  Here,  however,  state- 
ments for  this  year's  business  are  not  as  informing  as  in  the  men's 
clothing  industry.  As  practically  all  men's  outer  street  garments  are 
made  of  wool,  a  statement  of  the  cost  of  woolens  for  the  year  gave 
the  proportionate  wool  cost  in  the  average  garment  produced.  In 
this  industr}^  however,  few  houses  make  exclusively  woolen  garments. 
An  analysis  of  the  materials  used  and  their  costs  does  not,  therefore, 
necessarily  give  the  averajge  cost  of  materials  per  garment.  Such 
data  must  here  be  taken  from  the  figures  for  specimen  garments,  and 
accordingly  more  stress  was  laid  on  this  information. 


I 


L 
V 


V 


KEPOBT  OF  TAKIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


893 


Here,  as  in  the  men's  clothing  industry,  the  contract  system  plays  a  ^ 
large  part,  though  not  so  large  as  in  the  latter.     For  this  reason  it 
is  equally  difficult  to  obtain  what  mi§:ht  be  called  direct  labor  costs. 

The  essential  information  secured  in  this  investigation  is  summa- 
rized in  two  series  of  tables.  The  first  series  shows  for  skirts,  coats, 
and  suits,  the  (1)  cloth  cost,  the  (2)  cost  of  trimmings,  the  (3)  manufac- 
turing cost.  On  the  basis  of  the  year's  figures  there  is  shown  also  the 
selMng  price  and  general  expense,  in  the  last  item  overhead  factory 
expense  is  calculated  on  the  basis  of  the  yearly  data  and  does  not 
represent  direct  statement  of  the  manufacturer. 

The  second  general  series  of  tables  show  for  the  year  the  material 
cost,  the  manufacturing  costs— direct  labor  and  overhead  factory 


men  s  cioi/Uiiig  invustigatiuii.     j-u  xo  i,xj»v  x.^^xv^  ^^.... ^^  ^.^  ^j -~- 

ing  the  itfems  of  cost  just  specified.  It  does  not  represent  net  protits, 
for  from  it  must  be  deducted  officers'  salaries  or  compensation  for 
services  of  members  of  fu-ms,  interest  on  the  capital  invested  or 
money  borrowed,  and  losses  through  bad  debts  or  otherwise.  'The 
yearly  figures  are  for  1909  with  very  few  exceptions.  The  data  for 
1909  were  taken  because  they  were  deemed  to  be  representative  of 
normal  conditions.  The  figures  for  1910  would  have  been  unsatis- 
f actoiy  owing  to  the  disturbing  influence  of  the  strike.  Inasmuch 
as  the  yearly  figures  do  not  show  the  total  cost  of  woolens  used,  the 
chief  value  of  tliis  table  is  in  the  view  it  presents  of  the  general  conch- 
tions  of  the  industry,  the  importance  of  the  material  cost,  of  conver- 
sion cost,  labor  anil  general  factory  expense,  selling  cost,  and  gen- 
eral expenses.  .  i  r  i. 
In  the  present  investigation  data  were  secured  from  17  establish- 
ments, and  of  these,  U  furnisliing  detailed  information  had  an  out- 
put of  $12,000,000  net  sales.  This  represents  approximately  5  per 
cent  of  the  total  output  of  women's  clothing  as  reported  by  the  census 
for  New  York  City.  The  proportion  for  establishments  engaged  in 
the  manufacture  of  cloaks,  suits,  and  skirts  is  considerably  higher. 

DATA    FOR    SPECIMEN    GARMENTS. 

The  data  for  specimen  garments  were  obtained  for  the  year  1911,  for 
fall  and  winter  styles.  It  will  be  convenient  to  consider  here  sepa- 
rately skirts,  cloaks,  and  suits. 

SKIRTS. 

In  skirts  the  cloth  is  practically  the  only  material  of  importance. 
Here  data  were  obtained  for  skirts  ranging  in  wholesale  pnces  from 
$2.50  net  to  about  $7.  These  data  show  that  in  all  grades  the  cloth 
cost  is  40  per  cent.  The  cost  of  other  materials  is  about  5  per  cent. 
The  total  material  cost  is  substantially  45  per  cent.  The  manufac- 
turing expense  for  direct  labor  and  overhead  expense  is  about  30  per 

CftTl  t 

Below  are  shown  the  selhng  price  for  typical  skirts,  gross  and  net, 
and  the  details  of  cost  for  material,  labor,  factory  expense,  selling 
expense,  general  expense,  and  profits. 


J 


894 


RBPOBT  OF  TAEIFF  BOAED  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


Table  10.--Analifm  oj  costs  of  tifpical  sHris,  mUing  price,  and  details  of  costs,  arranged 

in  €mkr  of  lut  seUing  price. 


Wholesale 
Bdling  price. 

Ooth 
oust  per 

'    net. 

Yards 
I.er 

SKirt. 

Total 
cloth 
cost. 

Trim- 
mings 
cost. 

• 

Total 

laitorial 

cost. 

Direct 

latwr 

cost.i 

Manufac- 
turing 
expense.' 

Cost  of 

manufoo* 

tured 

skirt. 

ence 
Mo. 

Gross. 

Net. 

1.... 
2.... 
3.... 
4.... 
6.... 
6. . . . 
7.... 

12.62 

3.50 
4.W 
4.50 
5.00 
5.00 
7.00 

$2.53 

3.29 
3.86 

4.36 

4.83 
4.85 
6-S6 

10.515 
.675 
.715 
.75 
.75 
.75 
1.15 

S2.00 
2.50 
2.00 
2.375 
2.50 
2.75 
2.50 

SLOi 
1.41 

1.43 
1.78 
l.&S 
2.06 
2. 83 

.17 
.25 
.20 
.25 
.15 
.50 

11.18 
1.01 
1.68 
1.98 
2.13 
2.21 
3.38 

10.65 

1.06 
1.00 

1.11 

1.15 
1.12 
1.70 

10.18 
.27 
.27 
.28 
.31 
.29 
.40 

S2.01 
2.94 
2.95 
3.37 
3.59 
3.G3 
5.54 

» This  entry  represents  direct  labor  where  the  manufacturer  has  his  own  shops;  otherwise  it  stands  for 
the  direct  labor  in  llie  cutting  room  pins  the  amount  paid  to  contractors  for  making  up  the  garments. 
»  At  the  rates  shown  for  the  year  1909. 

The  following  table  repeats  the  chief  items  of  cost  in  readily  com- 
parable form  and  showing  such  items  as  percentages  of  the  net  selling 
]>rice: 

Tablb  20.— Analysis  of  costs  of  typical  sHrtsfbr  different  ffmdea  of  clothing. 
[Details  of  cost  expressed  as  percentages  of  net  sdllng  price.] 


Refer- 
eiice 
No. 

Xet  vhole- 

fMileselUng 

price. 

Tot.il  cloth 
cost. 

Trimmlnp 
oost. 

Total 

material 

cost. 

Direct 
labor  cost.' 

Manuffto 

turing 
expense." 

Cost  of     1 
manufao- 
tured  skirt. 

1 

2 

3-. 

4 

6. 

100.00 
10(\  00 

im.m 

100.00 
100.00 

100.00 
1(J0.00 

40.71 

42.48 
37.04 
40.82 
3.i92 
42. 4S 
41. 98 

5. 93 
5. 01 
6.4S 
4.50 
5.18 
3.09 
7.29 

46.64 
47.49 
43.52 
45.41 
44.10 
45.57 
49.27 

25.09 
31.27 
25.91 
25.46 
23.  a 
23.09 

24.73 

• 

7.11 
7.97 
6.99 
6.42 
6.42 
5.99 
6.71 

79.44 
86.73 
76.42 
77.29 
74,33 
74.65 
80.7fl 

1  This  entry  represents  direct  latior  where  the  manulacturer  has  his  own  shops;  otherwise  it  stands  for 
the  direct  labor  in  the  cutting  room  plus  the  amount  paid  to  contractors  for  making  up  the  garments. 
t  At  the  rates  showa  for  the  jear  1900. 

COATS   OE  CLOAKS. 

On  coats  the  cost  of  cloth  is  less  important  than  it  is  on  skirts  J" 
on  the  other  hand,  the  cost  of  trimming  is  very  much  more  important, 
and  the  conversion  cost  absorbs  a  larger  percentage  of  the  selling 
price  of  the  garment.  For  coats  selling  at  wholesale  for  less  than 
$12,  the  cloth  cost  is  equal  to  about  35  per  cent  of  the  net  selling  price. 
In  garments  selling  above  this  figure  and  as  high  as  $30,  the  cloth  cost 
seems  to  be  in  general  less  than  30  per  cent  and  on  very  expensive 
coats  the  cloth  cost  falls  below  20  per  cent.  The  cost  of  tnmming 
shows  much  greater  variation  than  the  cost  of  cloth,  rising,  however, 
both  absolutely  and  relatively,  with  the  cost  of  the  garment.  The 
extensive  vogue  of  the  reversible  coat  this  year  probably  tends  to 
exaggerate  the  importance  of  the  cloth  cost  for  coats.  It  is  sufficient 
to  note  that  cloth  is  far  more  important  an  item  of  cost  on  cheap 
garments  than  on  more  expensive  coats.  The  conversion  cost  on 
cheap  coats  is  nearly  as  great  as  the  cloth  cost,  and  on  more  expensive 
garments  it  is  greater  than  the  entire  cost  of  the  materials  used. 


% 


KEPORT  OF   TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDITLE  K. 


895 


Below  are  shown  the  details  of  selling  price  and  cost  for  typical 
coats: 

Table  21. — Analysis  of  costs  of  typical  coats,  selling  price,  and  details  (f  costs,  arranged 

in  order  of  net  selling  price. 


Ref- 
er- 

Wholesale  selling 
price. 

Cloth 

cost  per 

yard 

net. 

Yards 

per 

coat. 

Totel 
cloth 
cost. 

Trim- 
mings 
cost. 

Total 
material 
cost. 

Direct 

labor 

cost.i 

Manu- 
factur- 
ing 
expense.' 

Cost  of 
manu- 
factured 
coat. 

enoe 

No. 

Gross. 

Net. 

1... 

$.'5.50 

$.5.30 

10.65 

3.25 

$2.11 

$1.00 

$3.11 

$1.79 

$0.13 

$5.03 

2... 

7.00 

6.74 

.74 

3.25 

2.41 

1.70 

411 

1.94 

.14 

6.19 

3... 

8.00 

7.70 

.88 

3.25 

2.86 

2.31 

5.17 

2.14 

.16 

7.47 

4... 

10.75 

9.97 

.75 

4.50 

3.38 

.95 

433 

3.25 

.41 

7.99 

6... 

12.00 

11.13 

.90 

4.25 

3.83 

.85 

468 

3.50 

.44 

8.62 

6... 

12.50 

12.04 

1.12 

3.25 

3.64 

3.64 

7.28 

2.69 

.20 

10.17 

7... 

13.75 

13.48 

1.10 

3.625 

3.99 

2.22 

6.21 

3.51 

1.00 

10.72 

8... 

15.00 

13.92 

.95 

4.00 

3.80 

2.70 

6.50 

4  00 

.50 

11.00 

9... 

14.60 

13.96 

1.12 

3.50 

3.92 

2.70 

6.62 

2.79 

.21 

9.62 

10... 

16.50 

15.18 

1. 372.5 

3.50 

480 

.67 

5.47 

442 

.82 

10.71 

11... 

17. 50 

16.24 

1.075 

4.25 

467 

3.00 

7.57 

450 

.56 

12.63 

12... 

18.50 

17.02 

.90 

3.75 

3.38 

4  37 

7.75 

483 

•  {K7 

13.47 

13... 

20.00 

18.56 

2.25 

425 

9.56 

2.80 

12.36 

3.50 

.44 

16.30 

14... 

22. 50 

21.09 

.80 

4  50 

3.60 

3.33 

6.93 

8.84 

3.11 

18.88 

15... 

23.50 

21.81 

1.75 

4.25 

7.44 

3.70 

U.14 

5.37 

.67 

17.18 

16... 

23.50 

21.95 

1.50 

4.00 

6.00 

3.65 

9.65 

6.08 

1.68 

17.41 

17... 

30.00 

27.84 

1.50 

4.00 

6.00 

7.30 

13.30 

7.00 

.88 

21.18 

18... 

a5.oo 

32.81 

1.5,5 

400 

6.20 

7.13 

13.33 

8.58 

3.02 

24  93 

19... 

aioo 

32.81 

2.24 

3.50 

7.84 

6.42 

13.26 

10.07 

3.54 

26.87 

20... 

42.50 

39.84 

L36 

3.75 

6.10 

6.48 

1L58 

15.58 

5.48 

32.64 

1  This  entry  represents  direct  labor  where  the  manufacturer  has  his  own  shops,  otherwise  it  stands  fcr 
the  direct  labor  in  the  cutting  room  plus  tlie  amount  paid  to  contract<»s  for  making  up  tlw  garments. 
*  At  the  rates  shown  for  the  year  1909. 

Tlie  following  table  repeats  the  important  items  of  cost  in  terms  of 
percentages  of  the  net  selling  price: 

Table  22. — Analysis  of  costs  of  typical  coats  for  different  grades  of  clothing. 
[Details  of  cost  expressed  as  percentages  of  net  selling  price.] 


Refer- 
ence 
No. 

Net  whole- 
sale selling 
price. 

Total  cloth 

cost. 

Trimmings 
eost. 

Total  mate- 
rial cost. 

Direct  labor 
cost.i 

Manufac- 
turing ex- 
pense.* 

Cost  of  man- 
ufactured 
coat. 

1 

100.00 

39.81 

18.87 

68.68 

33.77 

2.45 

94.90 

2 

100.00 

35. 76 

25.22 

60.98 

28.78 

2.08 

91.84 

3 

100.00 

37.14 

•       30.00 

67.14 

27.79 

2.08 

97.01 

4 

100.00 

33.90 

9.53 

43.43 

32.60 

411 

80.14 

5 

100.00 

34  41 

7.64 

42.05 

31.  45 

3.95 

77.45 

6 

100.00 

30.23 

30.23 

60.46 

22.34 

1.66 

84  46 

7 

100.00 

29.60 

16.47 

46.07 

26.04 

7.42 

79.53 

8 

100.00 

27.30 

19.40 

46.70 

28.73 

3.59 

79.02 

9 

100.00 

28.08 

19.34 

47.42 

19.99 

1.50 

68.91 

10 

100.00 

31.62 

4  41 

36.03 

29.12 

5.40 

70.55 

11 

100.00 

28.14 

18.47 

46.61 

27.71 

3.45 

77.77 

12 

100.00 

19.88 

25.67 

45.53 

28.38 

6.23 

79.14 

13 

100.00 

61.51 

15.08 

66.50 

18.86 

2.37 

87.82 

14 

100.00 

17.07 

15.79 

32.86 

41.92 

14  75 

89.52 

15 

100.00 

3411 

16.97 

6L08 

24  62 

3.07 

78.77 

16 

100.00 

27.33 

16.63 

43.96 

27.70 

7.65 

79.32 

17 

100.00 

21.55 

26.22 

47. 77 

25.14 

3.16 

76.08 

18 

100.00 

18.90 

21.73 

40.63 

26.15 

9.20 

75.98 

19 

100.00 

23.90 

16.52 

40.42 

30.69 

10.79 

81.90 

20 

100.00 

12.80 

16.27 

29.07 

39.10 

13.76 

8L93 

.  1  This  entry  represents  direct  labor  where  the  manufacturer  has  his  own  shops;  otherwise  it  stands  for  the 
direct  labor  in  the  cutting  room  plus  the  amount  paid  to  contractors  for  makmg  up  the  garments. 
a  At  the  rates  shown  for  the  year  1909. 


&96 


BEPOBT   OF   TAKIFF  BOARD   ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


Below  is  a  brief  summary  of  the  above  details: 

Table  23a. — Anclym  of  costs  of  typieal  coats  for  different  grades  of  clothing,  average 

ulllng  price  mid  costs — Summary. 


Range  of  net  whole- 
sale selling  price. 

Xet 
whole- 
sale 
scUing 
price. 

Esti- 
mated 
retail 
price. 

Total 
cloth 
cost. 

Trim- 
mings 
cost. 

Total 

material 

cost. 

Direct 

labor 

cost.i 

Manu- 
facturing 
expense.  - 

Cost  of 
manu- 
factured 
coat. 

tTniler$!2 

$8.17 
17.76 
35.15 

J14.00 
31.00 
50.00 

S3. 92 
5.03 
6.38 

SI.  36 
3.34 
6.34 

14.28 

8.40 
12.72 

S2.52 

4.79 
11.41 

SO.  26 

.91 

4.01 

17.0ft 

|12toS29.!» 

14.10 

Overf30 

28.14 

1  This  entry  represents  direct  labor  where  the  manufacturer  has  his  own  shops;  otherv.ise  it  stands  for 
the  direct  lalx>r  in  the  cutting  room  plus  the  amount  paid  to  contractors  for  making  up  the  garments. 
« At  the  rates  shown  for  the  year  iy09. 

Table  236. — Aimlysis  of  costs  of  typical  coats  for  different  grades  of  clothing — Summary — 

A  verage  selling  price  and  costs. 

[Details  of  costs  expressed  as  percentages  of  net  selling  price.] 


Eange  of  net  wholesale  selling 
price. 


Under  S12.- 

S12  to  $29.99 
Over  $30.... 


Xet 
whole- 
sale 
selling 
price. 


100.00 
100.00 
100.00 


Total 
cloth 

cost. 


35.74 


Trim- 
mings 
cost. 


16.65 

18.81 
18.04 


Total 

material 
cost. 


52.39 
47.30 
36.19 


Direct 

labor 

cost.i 


30.84 
26.07 
32.46 


Manu- 
facturing 
expense. ' 


3.18 

5.12 

11.41 


Cost  of 

manu- 
factured 
coat. 


86.41 
79.39 
80.06 


»  This  entry  represents  direct  labor  where  the  manufacturer  has  his  own  shops;  otherwise  it  stands  for 
the  direct  laV>or  in  the  cutting  room  plus  the  amount  paid  to  contiactors  for  making  up  the  gaiments. 
>  At  the  rates  shown  for  the  year  1909. 

SUITS. 

On  suits  the  cloth  cost  is  far  less  important  than  for  either  skirts 
or  coats.  Trimmings  are  here  verv  important,  and  on  the  more 
expensive  garments  often  account  for  the  larger  part  of  the  material 
cost.  The  trimmings  used  are,  moreover,  chiefly  silk  for  the  hiiinjj 
and  braid  or  embroidery.  Th©  conversion  cost,  or  wages  of  labor  and 
factory  expense,  is  here  the  most  important  element  in  the  cost  of 
the  garment. 

On  the  whole  it  appears  that  the  cloth  cost  is  most  important  in 
the  cheaper  priced  garments.  Thus  in  garments  selling  at  wholesale 
for  less  than  $20  the  cloth  is  about  25  per  cent.  On  the  more  expen- 
sive garments  the  cloth  cost  is  generally  below  20  per  cent.  While 
the  cloth  cost  is  not  as  important  as  on  coats,  it  is  still  the  chief 
material  used.  The  labor  cost,  or  more  correctly  the  factory  cost, 
ranges  between  35  and  45  per  cent,  being  more  important  than  the 
cost  of  all  materials  used.  The  higher  labor  cost  is  found  in  the  more 
expensive  garment. 


BEPOET  OF  TAEIFF  BOAED   ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


897 


Below  are  shown  the  details  for  selling  price  and  costs  for  typical 
suits: 

Table  24. — Analysis  of  costs  of  typical  suits,  selling  price,  and  details  of  costs,  arranged 

in  order  of  net  selling  price. 


Refer- 
ence 

Wholesale  selling 
price. 

Cloth 
cost 
per 

yard, 
net. 

Yards 

per 

suit. 

Total 
cloth 
cost. 

Trim- 
mings 
cost. 

Total 

material 

cost. 

Direct 

labor 
cost.i 

Manu- 
factur- 
ing ex- 
pense. 2 

Cost  of 
manu- 
fac- 

No. 

Gross. 

Net. 

tured 
suits. 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

7 

8 

9 

10.... 
11.... 
12.... 
13.... 
14.... 
15.... 
16.... 
17.... 

$8.78 
15.50 
16.50 
20.00 
20.00 
20.00 
22.60 
25.00 
26.50 
27.50 
27.50 
30.00 
30.00 
30.00 
35.00 
42.50 
50.00 

$8.58 
15.20 
13.84 
18.40 
18.68 
19.20 
20.92 
23.25 
24.38 
25.30 
25.:J0 
27.75 
27.90 
28.02 
32.37 
39.31 
46.25 

$1.10 

1.10 

.93 

.92 

1.00 

1.05 

.8.5 

.85 

1.15 

1.02 

1.10 

.98 

1.15 

1.40 

.98 

1.02 

l.Gl 

3.25 

3.025 

4.00 

4.25 

4.50 

4.50 

4.25 

3.75 

4.625 

4..'i0 

4.75 

4.25 

4.375 

5.00 

4.33 

4.625 

4.25 

$3.58 
3.99 
3.72 
3.92 
4.50 
4.73 
3.61 
3.19 
5.32 
4.59 
5.23 
4.17 
5.03 
7.00 
4.24 
7.49 
6.84 

$0.42 
2.36 
1.68 
3.12 
3.30 
1.68 
3.40 
4.10 
3.60 
5.62 
2.25 
3.13 
4.94 
4.30 
6.33 
6.14 
4.98 

$4.00 

6.35 

5.40 

7.04 

7.80 

6.41 

7.01 

7.29 

8.92 

10.21 

7.48 

7.30 

9.97 

11.30 

10.57 

13.63 

11.82 

$2.14 

4.31 

6.10 

5.40 

5.85 

7.46 

8.80 

8.80 

6.94 

7.59 

9.85 

10.10 

9.50 

8.87 

11.35 

13.60 

15.10 

$0.61 
1.23 

.82 
1.00 
1.61 
1.01 

.58 

.58 
1.28 
1.41 
3.26 
3.18 

.63 
2.44 
3.68 
4.28 
4.76 

$6.75 
11.89 
12.32 
13.44 
15.26 
14.88 
16.39 
16.67 
17.14 
19.21 
20.59 
20.58 
20.10 
22.61 
25.60 
31.51 
31.68 

» This  entry  represents  direct  labor  where  the  manufacturer  has  his  own  shops,  otherwise  it  stands  for 
direct  labor  in  the  cutting  room  plus  the  amount  paid  to  contractors  for  making  up  the  garments. 
» At  the  rate  shown  for  the  year  1909. 

The  following  table  gives  the  important  items  of  cost  in  the  form 
of  percentages  of  the  net  selling  price: 

Table  2b.— Analysis  of  costs  of  typical  suits  for  different  grades  of  clothing. 
[Details  of  cost  expressed  as  percentages  of  net  selling  price.] 


Refers 
enoe 

No. 

Net  whole- 
sale selling 
price. 

Total  cloth, 
cost. 

Trimmings, 
cost. 

Total 

material, 

cost. 

Direct  labor 
cost.* 

Manufac- 
turing 
e.xpense.' 

Cost  of 
manufac-  . 
tured  suit. 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

7 

8 

9 

10 

11 

12 

13 

14 

15 

16 

17 

100.00 
100.00 
100.  00 
100.00 
100.00 
100.00 
100.00 
100.00 
100.00 
100.00 
100.  (X) 
100.00 
100.00 
100.00 
100.00 
100.  00 
100.00 

41.72 
26.25 
23.48 
21.30 
24.09 
24.64 
17.26 
13.72 
2L82 

iai4 

20.67 
15.03 
18.03 
24.98 
13.10 
19.05 
14.79 

4.90 
15.63 
10.61 
16.96 
17.67 

8.75 
16.25 
17.63 
14.77 
22.21 

8.89 
11.28 
17.71 
15.35 
19.56 
15.62 
10.77 

46.62 
41.78 
34.09 
38.26 
41.76 
33.39 
33.51 
3L35 
36.59 
40.36 
29.57 
26.  31 
35.74 
40.33 
32.65 
34.67 
25.56 

24.94 
28.36 
38.51 
29.35 
31.32 
38.8.5 
42.07 
37.85 
28.47 
30.00 
38.93 
36.40 
34.05 
31.66 
35.06 
34.60 
32.65 

7.11 

8.09 

5.18 

5.43 

8.62 

5.26 

2.77 

2.49 

5.25 

6.57 

12.89 

11. 46 

2.26 

8.71 

11.37 

10.89 

10.29 

78.67 
78.22 
77.78 
73.04 
81.70 
77.50 
78.35 
71.69 
70.30 
75.93 
81.39 
74.17 
72.05 
80.70 
79.08 
80.16 
6a  50 

>  This  entry  represents  direct  labor  where  the  manufacturer  has  his  own  shops;  otherwise  it  stands  for 
the  direct  labor  in  the  cuttmg  room  plus  the  amount  paid  to  contractors  for  makmg  up  the  garments. 
»  At  the  rates  shown  lor  the  year  1909. 


OtJO 


RBPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDUIjB  K. 


A  brief  summary  of  the  above  detaila  may  be  bad  in  the  following 

table : 

Table  2&a.~-Analy»ls  of  costs  of  typical  mils  for  dij^erent  grades  of  clothing— Average 

mUing  prtce  and  cost^—SumTtiary. 


Rang©  of  net  whole- 
sale selling  price. 

Net 
wholesale 

selling 
price. 

Esti- 
mated 
retail 
price. 

Total 
cloth 

cost. 

Trim- 
mings 

cost. 

Total 
material 

cost. 

Direct 

kbor 

cost.i 

• 

Manu- 
facturing 
expense.* 

Cost  of 

manufao 

tured 

suit. 

trnder  $20 - 

130  to  129.99 

Over  $30 

$15.98 

25. 35 
39.31 

$27.00 
45.00 
68.00 

$4.07 

4.77 
6.19 

$2.09 

3.93 
5.82 

$6. 16 

n.m 

12.01 

$5.21 

8.81 

13.35 

$1.04 
1.67 
4.24 

$12.41 
19.  IT 

29.60 

I  This  entry  represents  direct  labor  where  the  manutacturer  ha.s  his  own  shops,  otherwise  it  stands  for 
direct  labor  in  the  cutting  room  pins  the  amount  paid  to  contractors  for  making  up  the  garments. 
*  At  the  rates  shown  for  tlie  year  1909. 

Table  2&.—Anahjsis  of  costs  of  tijpiml  suits  for  dij^erent  grades  of  clothing— Sum- 

Tnary — Average  selling  price  and  costs. 

[Details  of  cost  expressed  as  percentages  of  net  selling  price.) 


Kanjf  of  net  wholesale 
selling  price. 

Net 

wholesale 

selling 

price. 

Total 
cloth 

cost. 

Trim- 

mingii 

cost. 

Total 

materia] 

oost. 

Direct 
labor 
cost.» 

Manu- 
facturing 
axpeiaae.i 

Cost  of 

manufiiO" 

tured 

suit. 

ITpder  $20 - 

100.00 
100.00 
100.00 

24.57 

18.82 
15.75 

13.08 
15.4fi 
14.81 

38.65          32.60 

6.51 

6.50 

10.79 

77. 6« 

$20  to  $29.90 

Over  830 

M.28 
30.l»5 

34.75 
33.96 

75.62 
75.30 

J  This  entry  represents  direct  labor  where  the  manufacturer  has  his  own  shops,  otherwise  It  stands  for 
direc;t  lalxjr  in  the  cutting  room  phis  the  amount  paid  to  contractors  tor  maJdng  up  the  garments. 

« At  the  rates  shown  for  the  year  1909. 

The  foregoinp:  table  indicates  the  importance  of  the  total  cloth  cost 
in  garments.  •Below  are  shown  the  price  of  the  clotlis  used.  An 
examination  of  these  tables  indicates  a  considerable  variation  in 
yardage,  due  largely  to  style.  It  indicates  further  that  the  same 
priced  clotlis,  or  clotlis  bought  at  approximately  the  same  price,  entei 
mto  garments  differing  very  considerably  in  price.  On  the  other  hand 
it  is  clear  that  in  general  the  price  of  the  cloth  rises  ^ith  the  price  of 
the  garment.  However,  the  increase  in  cloth  cost  is  not  proportional 
to  the  increased  price,  the  chief  difference  in  cost  between  different 
priced  garments  being  in  trimmings  and  even  more  in  the  making. 

Table  27.— Eehtion  of  eloik  cost  to  total  cost  ofttwnen's  clothing,  details  for  all  sped- 
men  garmmts^,  cost  of  cloth  per  yard,  yardage,  net  seUiTig  prwe  of  garment,  and  details  of 

cost,  arranged  accordtng  to  doth  cost  per  yard. 

SKIRTS. 


Bef-i    Cloth 

er-   cost  per 

ence     yard,, 
No.  I     IMt. 


1... 
2... 

3. . . 
4... 
fi... 
6... 
7... 


Yards 
per  gar- 
ment. 


$0,515 

ZOO 

$1.03 

.575 

2.50 

1.44 

.715 

2.00 

1.43 

.75 

2. 375 

1.78 

.76 

2.50 

1.88 

.75 

2.75 

2.06 

1.15 

2.50 

2.88 

Total 
doth 

cost. 


Trim- 
mings 
cost. 


$0.15 

■.17 
,2S 
.20 
.25 
.15 
.50 


Total 

material 
cost. 


Direct 
labor 
cost.i 


Manu- 
facturing I 
expense.* 


Cost  of 
manu- 
factured 
gamMnt. 


Wholesale  selling. 


OfOfis. 


$1.18 
L61 
1.68 
1.98 
2.13 
2  21 
3.38 


$0.65 
LOO 
LOO 
1.11 
1.16 
LI2 
L70 


$ai8 

.27 
.27 
28 
.31 
•  29 
.46 


$2.01 
2.94 
2.96 
3.37 
3.69 
3.62 
6.54 


$2162 

3.50 
4.00 
4.50 
6-00 
6.00 
7.00 


Net. 


$2.53 
3.39 
3.8ti 
4.36 
4.83 
4.86 
6.86 


» This  entry  represents  direct  labor  where  the  manufacturer  has  his  o;vn  shop:  otherwise  it  stands  for 
the  dirt«t  lalwr  in  the  cutting  room  plus  the  amount  paid  to  contractors  for  making  up  the  garmeuto. 
>  At  the  rates  shown  lor  tlie  year  1909. 


ifOl 


REPORT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  OK  SCHEDULB  K. 


899 


Table  27. — Relation  of  cloth  cost  to  total  cost  of  women's  clothing,  details  for  all  sped- 
men  garments,  cost  of  cloth  per  yard,  yardage,  net  selling  price  of  garment,  and  details  of 
cost,  arranged  according  to  cloth  cost  per  yarrf^Continued. 

coats. 


Ref. 

er- 

Cloth 

oost  per 

yard, 

net. 

Yards 
per  gar- 
ment. 

Total 
cloth 

cost. 

Trim- 
mings 
oost. 

Total 

material 

cost. 

Direct 
labor 
cost. 

Manu- 
facturing 
expenses. 

Cost  of 
manu- 
factured 
garment. 

Wholesale  se  Ifing. 

ence 
Ho. 

Gross. 

Net. 

1.... 
2.... 
4.... 

14... 
3...; 
12... 
5.... 
8.... 
11... 
7.-.. 
6.... 
9.... 
20... 
10... 
16... 
17... 
18... 
15... 
19... 
13... 

$0.65 

.74 

.75 

.80 

.88 

.90 

.90 

.95 
1.075 
LIO 
L12 
1.12 
L36 
L3725 
L50 
1.50 
L55 
L75 
2.24 
2.25 

3.25 

3.25 

4.50 

4.50 

3.25 

3.75 

4.25 

4.00 

4.25 

3.625 

3.25 

3.50 

3.75 

3.50 

4.00 

4.00 

4.00 

4.25 

3.50 

4.25 

$2.11 
2.41 
3.38 
3.60 
2.86 
3.38 
3.83 
3.80 
4.57 
3.99 
3.64 
3.92 
5.10 
480 
6.00 
6.00 
6.20 
7.44 
7.84 
9.66 

$L00 
L70 

.95 
3.33 
2.31 
4.37 

.85 
2.70 
3.00 
2.22 
3.04 
2.70 
6.48 

.67 
3.G5 
7.30 
7.13 
3.70 
5.42 
2L80 

$3.11 

4.11 

4.33 

6.93 

6.17 

7.75 

4.68 

6.50 

7.57 

6.21 

7.28 

6.62 

1L58 

6.47 

9.65 

13.30 

13.33 

n.l4 

13.26 

12.36 

$L?9 
L94 
3.25 
8.84 
2.14 
4.83 
3.50 
4.00 
4.50 
3.51 
2.69 
2.79 

15.58 
4.42 
6.08 
7.00 
8.58 
5.37 

10.07 
3.50 

$0.13 
.14 
=  41 

3.11 
.16 
.89 
.44 
.50 
.56 

1.00 
.20 
.21 

5.48 
.82 

1.68 
.88 

ao2 

.67 

3.54 

.44 

$5.03 

6.19 

7.99 

18.88 

7.47 

13. 47 

8.62 

11.00 

12.63 

10.72 

10.17 

9.62 

32.64 

10.71 

17.41 

21.18 

24.93 

17.18 

26.87 

16.30 

$5.50 
7.00 
10.75 
22.50 
8.00 
18.50 
12.00 
15.00 
17.50 
13.75 
12.50 
14.50 
42.50 
16.50 
23.50 
30.00 
35.00 
23.50 
35.00 

2a  00 

$5.30 
6.74 
9.97 
21.09 
7.70 
17.02 
1L13 
13.92 
16.24 
13.48 
12.04 
13.96 
39.84 
15.18 
21.96 
27.84 
32.81 
21.81 
32.81 
18.  .56 

SUITS. 


8... 
7... 
4... 

3... 

12.. 

16.. 

5... 

10... 

6.... 

1..-. 

2.... 

11... 

13... 

9.... 

14... 

17... 

IG... 


$a86 

.85 

.92 

.93 

.98 

.98 

1.00 

L02 

L06 

LIO 

LIO 

LIO 

1.15 

L15 

1.40 

l.Gl 

1.C2 


3.75 
4.25 
4.25 
400 
425 
433 
4  50 
4  50 
4  50 
3.25 
3. 025 
4  75 
4375 
4  625 
5.00 
4  25 
4.  ( ■25 


$3.19 
3.61 
3.92 
3.72 
417 
424 
4  50 
4  59 
4  73 
a58 
3.99 
5.23 
5.03 
5.32 
7.00 
6.84 
7.^9 


$410 
3.40 
3.12 

L68 
3.13 
6.33 
3.30 
5.62 
L68 

•  TUB 

2.36 
2.25 
494 
3.60 
430 
498 
6.14 


$7.29 

7.01 

7.04 

6.40 

7.30 

10. 57 

7.80 

10.21 

6.41 

400 

6.35 

7.48 

9.97 

8.92 

1L30 

1L82 

13.63 


$8.80 

&80 

5.40 

6.10 

10.10 

1L35 

6.85 

7.59 

7.46 

2.14 

4  31 

9.85 

9.50 

6.94 

8.87 

15.10 

13.00 


$0.58 

.68 
LOO 

.82 
3.18 
3.68 
L61 
L41 
LOl 

.61 
L23 
3. 26 

.63 
L28 
2.44 
4  76 
4  28 


$16.67 
16.39 
13.44 
12.32 
20.58 
25.60 
15.26 
19.21 
14  88 
6.75 
1L89 
20.59 
20.10 
17.14 
22.61 
31.  CS 
31.51 


$25.00 
22.60 

20.00 
16.50 
30.00 
35.00 
20.00 
27.50 
20.00 
8.78 
15.50 
27.50 
30.00 
26.50 
30.00 
59.00 
42.50 


$23.25 
20.92 

18.40 
15.  S4 
27.75 
32.37 

18.  es 

25.30 
19.20 
8.58 
15.20 
25.30 
27.90 
24.38 
28.03 
46.25 
39.31 


From  the  data  presented  above  it  is  clear  that  in  the  manufacture  of 
women's  woolen  garments  cloth  is  the  most  important  material  used. 
It  is  also  clear  that  the  cost  of  cloth  is  relatively  a  larger  item  in  the 
tot^l  cost  of  the  garment  in  cheaper  priced  suits'^and  coats  than  in  the 
more  expensive  wearing  apparel. 

Attention  is  called  to  the  high  per  cent  which  the  cost  of  labor  and 
the  other  factory  expense  form  as  compared  with  the  net  seUing  price 
This  apphes  more  particularly  to  the  more  expensive  coats  and  suits, 
where  the  conversion  cost  exceeds  the  entire  cost  of  all  materials  used. 

The  information  as  taken  from  the  books  of  the  manufacturer  for 
the  year  1909  can  not  be  compared  in  detail  with  the  data  for  specimen 
garments  just  presented.  The  latter  were  secured  in  the  fall  of  191 1  or 
two  years  later,  and,  moreover,  apphed  to  a  single  season.  Further- 
more, the  information  is  for  woolen  garments  exclusively.  The  figures 
for  1 909  cover  an  entire  year.  Changes  in  the  style  must  be  reckoned 
with,  and  also  the  fact  that  the  1909  figures  are  for  all  garments 
manufactured,  woolen  and  other.  The  1909  figures  are  valuable  as 
depicting  conditions  of  the  industry  in  a  year  which  is  regarded  in  the 
trade  as  representative  of  normal  conditions. 


900 


EEPOKT  OF  TAEIFF  BOABD  OJf  SCHSDULE   K. 


The  information  furnished  by  the  manufacturer  for  the  year  1909 
Jias  been  summarized  so  as  to  show  matsrial  cost,  direct  labor,  factory 
expense,  selOng  expense,  and  general  expense.  The  table  is  designed 
to  show  separately  the  information  for  skirt  houses  and  for  houses 
engaged  in  the  manufacture  of  cloaks  and  suits.  For  cloak  and  suit 
establishments  a  division  is  made  of  high-grade  estabhslmients  pro- 
ducing garments  averaging  in  selhng  price  $20  and  over  and  estab- 
lishments making  cheaper  garments. 

Below  are  given  the  data  for  the  year  1909: 

Table  28. — Cost  of  manufacturing  clothing — Women* s  clothing^  1909. 


Items. 


Net  selling  price. 
Material  cost 


Direct  labor  I 

Factory  expense . 


Total  manixfacturing  cost 

Cose  of  garments  sol! 


Selling  expense.. 
Oenerai  e.^pense. 


Total  selling  and  general  expense. 
Total  cost 

Profita 


Skirts. 


11.983,738 
1,074,710 


452,689 
143,801 


590,490 


1.602,989 


115.099 
67,463 


182, 562 


1.845,551 


138, 187 


Coats  and  suits. 


Cheap  and 

meaium 

(under 

$20). 


12,780,519 
1,693,746 


584,224 
79,834 


664,058 


2. 349, 740 


81,992 
67,793 


149,785 


High  grade 

(120  and 

over). 


$7,209,589 

3,593,058 


Grand 
total. 


$11,973,846 
6,361,514 


2,179,363 


5.792,008 


131,446 
417,038 


£48,484 


2,499.525 


280,994 


6,341,092 


868,497 


3,439,911 


9,805,337 


328,537 
552,294 


880,831 


10, 086, 168 


1,287,678 


»  This  entry  represents  direct  labor  where  tlie  manufacturer  has  his  own  shops,  otherwise  it  stands  for 
direct  latjor  iri  the  cutting  room  plus  the  amount  paid  to  contractors  for  making  up  the  garment. 
"Not  shown  separately  for  all  establishments. 

The  information  in  the  table  above  is  reduced  to  comparable  terms 
by  expressing  the  items  of  cost  as  percentages  of  the  net  selling  price. 

Table  29. — Cost  of  inanufaciuring  clothing — Women's  clothing,  1909. 
[Items  of  cost  expressed  as  percentages  of  net  sellinir  price.] 


Skirts. 

Coats  and  suits. 

Items. 

Cheap  and 

meaium 

(under 

$20). 

High  grade 

(i20  and 

over). 

Grand 
total. 

Net  selling  uric©. 

100.00 
53.91 

100.00 
60.70 

100.00 
50.02 

100.00 

Material  cost 

53.14 

Direct  labor' 

22.71 
1.20 

20.94 
2.86 

S 

Factory  ex  Dense 

Total  manufacturing  cost 

29.93 

•       23.80 

30.32 

28.73 

Cost  of  iFarments  sold 

83.83 

84.50 

80.34 

81.88 

Sellint!  expense 

5.80 
3.40 

2.95 
2.43 

1.82 
5.78 

2.74 

(jeneral  exoen^e. 

4.61 

Total  sellinc  and  eeneral  exnense 

9.20 

5.38 

7.00 

7.35 

Total  cost 

93.03 

89.89 

87.95 

89.23 

Profits 

6.97 

10.10 

12-05 

10.76 

1  This  entry  represents  direct  labor  where  the  manufacturer  has  his  own  shops,  otherwise  ft  stands  for 
direct  labor  in  the  cutting  room  plus  the  amount  paid  to  contractors  for  making  up  the  garments. 
*  Not  shown  separately  for  all  establishments. 


. .. 


i 


Kent    Hall 
BEPOBT  OF  TABIPF  BOAfiD  ON  SCHEDULE  K^olumbia  Wlversity 

New  York 
In  the  following  table  the  factory  cost  of  women's  garments  (the 
expenditures  for  the  material  and  factory  expense)  is  taken  as  100  per 
cent  and  the  constituent  items  of  cost  shown  as  percentages  of  tl 
base: 

Table  30. — Cost  of  mjanufaxiwrmg  women* s  clothing ,  1909 — Factory  costs. 
[Items  of  cost  expressed  as  percentages  of  total  factory  cost.] 


Slrirts, 

tOtAl. 

Ck>ats  and  suits. 

- 

Items. 

Cheap  and 

meaium 

(under  $20). 

High  grade 

($20  and 

over). 

Grand 
total. 

Total  cost,  manufactured  earments 

$100.00 
64.30 

$100.00 
71.83 

$100.00 

62.24 

— 

$100.00 

Material  cost 

64.90 

Direct  labor 

27.08 
8.60 

24.77 
3.38 

Factory  expense 

Total  manufacturing  cost 

35.69 

28.16 

37.75 

35.10 

SKIKTS. 

For  skirt  houses  there  is  information  showing  the  importance  of 
woolen  cloth  in  the  total  product.  Houses  for  which  there  is  data 
ayailable  report  a  cloth  cost  equivalent  to  between  44  and  48  per  cent 
of  the  selling  price.  The  trimming  cost,  as  reported  by  them,  varies 
from  approximately  10  per  cent  to  less  than  5  per  cent.  The  labor 
and  factoiy  cost  amounts  to  30  per  cent  of  the  selling  price. 


CLOAKS   AND   SUITS. 


Here  few  houses  have  records  showing  the  importance  of  woolen 
cloth  in  their  annual  output.  One  very  large  concern,  which  keeps 
careful  records,  reports  the  cost  of  cloth  to  be  approximately  20  per 
cent.  Other  material  used  by  this  firm  amounts  to  25  per  cent,  or  5 
per  cent  more  than  the  cloth.  This  is  a  concern  engaged  in  the  pro- 
duction of  garments  selling  at  wholesale  for  more  than  $25  on  the 
average. 

One  house  extensively  engaged  in  the  production  of  coats,  selling 
on  the  average  between  $5  and  $6,  reports  that  normally  about  seven- 
eighths  of  the  total  material  costs  is  expended  for  cloth.  This  is  an 
estimate,  the  concern  keeping  no  records  that  segregate  the  cloth 
from  the  trimmings.  Another  house,  manufacturing  misses'  and 
ladies'  coats  and  suits,  reports  that  cloth  absorbs  58  per  cent  of  the 
net  selling  price  as  against  8  per  cent  for  trimmings.  A  third  house 
gives  the  cloth  cost  as  36  per  cent  and  the  cost  of  trimmings  as  9  per 
cent. 

The  total  material  cost  varies  from  45  per  cent  to  63  per  cent. 
The  average  is  60  per  cent  for  houses  making  the  more  popuhir-priced 
suits  and  coats  and  50  per  cent  for  more  expensive  garments.  The 
high  percentages  are  reported  by  houses  whose  output  sells  at  popular 
prices. 

The  factory  cost  on  suits  and  coats  as  reported  by  the  establish- 
ments investigated  varies  widely.  In  the  popular-pnced  garments  a 
factory  cost  equal  to  22  per  cent  of  the  net  selling  price  is  reported. 
In  higher-priced  garments  the  factory  cost  rises   to   30   per  cent. 

32080'— H.  Doc.  342, 62-2,  vol  2 19 


902 


BEPOET  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


Where  a  careful  analysis  of  the  figures  are  available  the  overhead 
expense  m  the  factory  for  sample  making,  designing,  and  supervision 
is  very  high,  absorbing  in  some  estabh^ents  as^ch  as  10  per  cent 
of  the  net  selling  price. 

In  the  cloak  and  suit  busmess  the  large  houses  report  the  cost  of  the 
garments  as  they  leave  the  factory  to  be  between  about  80  and  85 
per  cent.  This  means  a  lower  margin  for  seUing,  general  expenses, 
and  profits  than  that  found  in  men's  clothing.  One  mteresting  phase 
of  the  industry,  however,  is  the  comparativeljf  low-selling  expense 
in  the  suit  and  coat  business.  The  large  houses  in  the  business  report 
a  selling  expense  of  less  than  3^  per  cent  at  the  maximum.  This  is 
because  sales  are  made  lamely  at  the  office  of  the  firm  rather  than 
through  salesmen.  As  selling  expense  absorbs  a  very  much  lower 
proportion  of  the  net  amount  received  from  sales,  the  larger  houses 
show  a  higher  rate  of  profit  than  that  reported  as  a  whme  for  the 
men's  clothing  industry. 

It  is  necessary  to  emphasize  the  fact  that  these  conclusions  are 
based  lai^ely  on  data  received  from  houses  manufacturing  higher 

grade  women's  garments.    The  more  limited  data  secured  for  skirt 
ouses  indicate  a  different  situation  and  selling  expenses  are  there 
considerably  liigher. 

In  comparison  with  the  data  obtained formen's  clothing  theinf orma- 
tion  secured  in  regard  to  women's  clo  tiling  is  limited.  The  latter  inves- 
tigation took  place  at  a  time  when  the  industry  was  at  the  height  of  its 
season,  and  it  was  therefore  difficult  to  secure  data  on  large  and 
detailed  scale.  Moreover,  there  was  not  the  same  cooperation  on  the 
part  of  the  manufacturers  which  was  met  with  m  men's  dothmg. 
The  conclusions  from  the  figures  obtained  are  given,  therefore,  not  as 
necessarily  final,  but  as  showing  the  trend  and  a  very  good  indication 
of  the  situation  of  the  mdustiy  as  a  whole. 

COMPLETE  COST  OF  TYPICAL  WOMEN's  G4RMENTS. 

There  is  now  jpresented  certain  typical  women's  clothing;  followed 
through  the  dinerent  processes  both  of  clothing  manufacture  and 
the  manufacture  of  the  cloth  of  which  the  garments  are  made. 

It  is  not  deemed  necessary  to  go  into  detafl  of  the  making  of  yam, 
as  this  would  be  exactly  similar  to  the  two  cases  given  under  the  head 
of  men's  clothing,  where  the  processes  were  extended  to  yam  manu- 
facture. 

This  fine  includes  women's  two-piece  suits  of  two  different  grades, 
one  misses'  suit,  three  standard  cloaks  and  two  typical  skirts.  In 
each  case  the  lowest  retail  price  has  been  taken  as  about  50  per  cent 
of  the  wholesale  price,  which  is  conservative  for  this  trade.  The 
different  garments  are  as  follows : 

(m)  Women's  two-piece  Buit: 

Regular  wnolesale  price $16. 50 

Net  wholesale  price  (average  realized) 15. 84 

Retail  price 25. 00 

(n)  Women's  two-piece  suit: 

Regular  wholesale  price 20. 00 

Net  wholesale  price  (average  realized) 18.  68 

Retail  price 30. 00 

(o)  Misses'  suit: 

Regular  wholesale  price 15. 50 

Net  wholesale  price  (average  realized) 15.  20 

Retail  price 24. 00 


REPOET  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


903 


(p)  Cloak: 

R^ular  wholesale  price $7. 00 

Net  wholesale  price  (average  realized) 6. 74 

Retail  price 10.50 

(r)  Cloak: 

Regular  wholesale  price 18. 50 

Net  wholesale  price  (average  realized) 17.02 

Retail  price 28.00 

(«)  Cloak: 

Regular  wholesale  price 30. 00 

Net  wholesale  price  (average  realized) 27.  84 

Retail  price 45. 00 

(0  Skirt: 

Regular  wholesale  price 2. 70 

Net  wholesale  price  (average  realized) 2.  53 

Retail  price 4. 00 

(v)  Skirt: 

Regular  wholesale  price 5. 00 

Net  wholesale  price  (average  realized) 4.  85 

Retail  price 7. 50 


(m)  Suit. 

[Regular  wholesale  price,  $16.50;  net  price,  amount  realized  after  deducting  average  discount,  $15.84; 

retail  price,  $25  and  up;  cloth,  woolen.] 

SUIT  MAKING. 

Stock  cost: 

Cloth,  woolen. 

Lining,  cotton  back  satin. 

Number  of  yards  of  cloth  used  in  suit,  4|. 

Cost  of  cloth  per  yard,  $0,825;  total $3. 69 

Cost  of  trimmings 1.68 

Total  cost  of  stock |5. 37 

Labor  cost: 

Sponging .10 

Cutting. .50 

Operatmg 3. 50 

Pressing 1. 00 

Miscellaneous 1. 00 

Total  labor  cost d.  10 

Factory  expense  ^ .82 

Total  manufacturing  expense 6. 92 

Selling  expense^ .49 

General  expense  ^ .43 

Final  cost  (factory  cost  plus  selling  and  general  expense) 13.21 

CLOTH   MAKING. 

Cost  per  yard. 

Stock 10.487 

Productive  labor 161 

Nonproductive  labor 007 

Department  materials 009 

General  expense 107 

Total  manufacturing  cost .  771 

Credit  waste .  004 

Net  manufacturing  cost 767 

Mill  selling  price 825 

1  Distributed  to  each  garment  on  basis  of  productive  labor  in  each  garment. 

s  Distributed  to  each  garment  on  basis  of  ratio  of  total  selling  and  general  expense  to  total  valae  of 
output. 


904  REPOBT  OF  TAKIFF  BOABD  ON   SCHEDUMJ  K. 

(n)  Suit. 

pieg:ular  wholesale  price,  120;  net  price,  amonnt  realized  after  deducting  average  discount,  118.68;  retail 

price,  $30  and  up;  cloth,  worsted  serge.] 

Stock  cost:  ®^"  MAKING. 

Cloth,  worsted  serge. 

Lining,  cotton  baclc  eatin. 

Number  of  yards  of  cloth  need  in  suit,  4^ 

Cost  of  cloth  per  yard,  $0.98;  total $4. 41 

Cost  of  linings 2. 50 

Interlining  and  trimming .80 

Total  stock  cost |7. 71 

Labor  cost: 

Sponging 10 

Cutting .75 

Making 5. 00 

Total  labor 5. 85 

Factory  expense  * 1. 61 

Total  manufacturing  expense 7. 46 

Selling  expense  ^ 1.  C8 

General  expense  2 37 

Final  cost  (factory  cost  plus  selling  and  general  expense) 17. 22 

CliOxM    JdAKINO.  rVist  TU'T  vard 

Stock 10.680 

Productive  labor 100 

Nonproductive  lalwr 023 

Department  materials 040 

General  expense 084 

Total  manufacturing  expense 927 

Credit  waste 005 

Net  manufacturing  cost .  922 

Mill  selling  price. , 980 

(o)  Misses*  suit. 

[Regular  wholesale  price,  tl5.50;  net  price,  amount  realized  after  deducting  average  dlsoount,  $15.20; 

retail  price,  $24  and  up;  cloth,  worsted  serge.] 

Stock  cost:  8^""  MAKING. 

Cloth,  worsted  serge. 

Lining,  peau  de  cygne. 

Number  of  yards  of  cloth  used  in  suit,  3|.  * 

Cost  of  cloth  per  yard,  $1.12:  total $4.06 

Cost  of  trimmings 1.  70 

Interlining  and  trimming 66 

Total  stock  cost $6.42 

Labor  cost: 

Sponging .08 

Cutting .40 

Making 3.83 

Total  labor  cost 4.  31 

Factory  expense » L23 

Total  manufacturing  expense 5. 54 

General  expense  ^ .58 

Selling  expense « L47 

Final  cost  (factory  cost  plus  selling  and  general  expense) 14, 01 

1  Distributed  to  each  garment  on  basis  of  productive  labor  in  each  garment. 

>  Distributed  to  each  garment  on  basis  of  ratio  of  total  selling  and  general  expenae  to  total  value  of 
output. 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K.        905 

CLOTH   MAKING. 

Cost  per  yard. 

Stock $0,800 

Dressing 008 

Weaving 042 

Burling  and  mending 019 

Dyeing  and  finishing 095 

General  expense 071 

Total  manufacturing  expense 1. 035 

Credit  waste 006 

Net  manufacturing  cost 1.  029 

Mill  selling  price -  -  -     1-12 

(p)  Cloak. 

[R^ular  wholesale  price,  17;  net  price,  amount  realized  after  deducting  average  discount,  $6.74;  retail 

price,  <10.50  and  up;  cloth,  all-wool  broadcloth.} 

Stock  cost: 

Cloth,  all-wool  broadcloth. 

Lining,  cotton-back  satin. 

Number  of  yards  of  cloth  used  in  cloak,  3J. 

Cost  of  cloth  per  yard,  $0.70;  total $2.28 

Cost  of  trimmings 1. 17 

Interlining  and  trimming .53 

Total  stock  cost $3.  98 

Labor  cost: 

Sponging 04 

Cutting .10 

Making L80 

Total  labor  cost L  94 

Factory  expense  ^ .14 

Total  manufacturing  expense 2. 08 

Selling  expense  ^ .01 

General  expense  2 13 

Final  cost  (factory  cost  plus  selling  and  general  expense) 6.  20 

CLOTH   MAKING. 

Cost  per  yard. 

Stock $0,492 

Productive  labor 065 

Nonproductive  labor 008 

Department  materials 018 

General  expense 047 

Total  manufacturing  expense 630 

Credit  waste 003 

Net  manufacturing  expense 627 

Mill  selling  price 70 

1  Distributed  to  each  garment  on  basis  of  productive  labor  in  each  garment. 

1  Distributed  to  each  garment  on  basis  of  ratio  of  total  selling  and  general  expense  to  total  value  of 
output. 


906  BEPOET  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 

(r)  Cloak. 

[Regular  wholesale  price,  118.50;  net  price,  amount  realized  after  deducting  average  discount,  117.09: 

retail  price,  128  and  up;  clotli,  woolen  coating.] 

Stock  cost: 

Cloth,  woolen  coating. 

Lining,  saHn. 

Number  of  yards  of  cloth  used  in  cloak,  3f . 

Cost  of  cloth,  per  yard  $0.91,  total |3. 40 

Cost  of  lining  3. 57 

Interlining  and  trimming .......         .80 

Total  stock  cost. |7. 77 

Labor  cost: 

Sponging O75 

Cutting 500 

Making 4.250 

Total  labor  cost , 4. 825 

Factory  expense  ^ [*!'"!        ]  890 

Total  manufacturing  expense 5. 72 

Selling  expense  ^ "..'.*.  .19 

General  expense^ l,..,,,,,/,,,,',         '97 

Final  cost  (factory  coet  plus  selling  and  general  expense) 14. 65 

CLOTH   MAKING. 

C!ost  per  yard. 

Stock.     ..     10.650 

Productive  labor 079 

Nonproductive  labor '..-.'..*!.'."*.*!.*!*!!  I  .*!!" !        '.  017 

Department  materials ......'..'....'......'...        '.  019 

General  expense ! . ! . !  11]  ^ !  ]  1  [  I  ]        '.  075 

Net  manufacturing  coat 840 

Sellingprice .......'.'.I'.'.'.'.'.'.        ^910 

(«)  Plain  tailored  cloaJc. 

piegular  wbolesale  price,  130;  net  price,  amount  realised  after  deducting  average  discount,  $27.84;  retail 

price,  $45;  cloth,  clear  finished  worstedj 

Stock  cost: 

Cloth,  clear  finish  worsted. 

Number  of  yards  of  cloth  used  in  cloak,  4. 

Costof  cloth,  per  yard  $1,375,  total $5.50 

Cost  of  lining 2.  70 

Interlining  and  trimming .['.'..'..'...        4.  60 

Total  stock  cost $12.80 

Labor  coet: 

Cutting 50 

Makmg g.  50 

Total  labor  cost 7. 00 

Factory  expense  * : .88 

Total  manufacturing  expense 7. 88 

Selling  expense  ^ "  *  81 

General  expense' 1 !!  1 ............  ]         .72 

Final  coet  (factory  cost  plus  selling  and  general  expense) 22.  21 

I  Distributed  to  each  garment  on  basis  of  productive  labor  In  each  garment. 
«  l£^f  ^****^®*^  ^  ®^^  garment  on  basis  of  ratio  csf  total  selling  and  general  expense  to  total  value  of 


i 


I 


/ 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K.  907 

CLOTH  MAKING.  Cost  i)er  yard. 

Stock $0.92 

Expense  through  weaving 17 

Burling  and  mending 02 

Finishing Od 

General  expense 08 

Net  manufacturing  cost 1.  22 

Mill  selling  price 1.375 

(0  Shirt. 

[Regular  wholesale  price,  $2.70;  net  price,  amount  realized  after  deducting  average  discount,  $2.53;  retail 

price,  $4  and  up;  cloth,  all-worsted  serge.] 

Stock  cost: 

Cloth,  all-worsted  serge. 

Number  of  yards  of  cloth  used  in  skirt,  2. 

Cost  of  cloth  per  yard,  $0.55,  total $1. 10 

Cost  of  trimming 15. 

Total  coet  of  stock $1. 25 

Labor  cost: 

Sponging  and  pressing 15 

Cutting 10 

Making .40 

Total  labor  cost 65 

Factory  expense  * 18 

Total  manufacturing  expense .83 

Selling  expense  ^ .12 

General  expense  ^ .07 

Final  cost  (factory  cost  plus  selling  and  general  expense) 2. 27 

CLOTH  MAKING.  Cost  i)er  yard. 

Stock $0.  3740 

Productive  labor 0405 

Nonproductive  labor : 0021 

Department  materials 0185 

General  expense 0309 

Total  manufacturing  cost 4660 

Credit  waste 002 

Net  manufacturing  cost 464 

Mill  selling  price 55 

(v)  Skirt. 

(Regular  wholesale  price,  $5;  net  price,  amount  realized  after  deducting  average  discount,  $4.85;  retail 

price,  $7.50  and  up;  cloth,  all-wool  serge.] 

Stock  cost: 

Cloth,  all-wool  serge. 

Number  of  yards  01  cloth  used  in  skirt,  2f . 

Cost  of  cloth  per  yard,  |0.74,  total $2. 03 

Cost  of  trimming 15 

Total  stock  cost $2. 18 

Labor  cost: 

Sponging 055 

Cutting no 

Making 950 

Total L115 

Factory  expense  * 290 

Total  manufacturing  expense 1. 405 

Selling  expense  ^ 380 

General  expense  ^ 250 

Final  cost  (factory  cost  plus  selling  and  general  expense) 4. 215 

'  Distributed  to  each  garment  on  basis  of  productive  labor  in  each  garment. 

*  Distributed  to  each  garment  on  basis  of  ratio  of  total  seUing  and  general  expense  to  total  value  of  output. 


908        BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 

CLOTH   MAKIKO. 

Cost  per  yard. 

Stock. «A    AK9 

Productive  labor ..,.....'........... 081 

Nonproductive  labor 02 

Department  materials 035 

General  expense \..lll["[[.[][[[[]l][  065 

Total  manufacturing  coet ij54 

Credit  waate 003 

Net  manufacturing  coet gci 

Hill  selling  pric« ll[.[..y.,'.',l[[l[        [74 


( 


' 


PART  IV -SECTION  2. 


REPORT  ON  READY-MADE  CLOTHING  AND 
WEARING  APPAREL. 


909 


\ 


FAHCY  KNIT  GOODS. 

The  investigation  into  the  cost  of  manufacturing  fancy  knit  goods 
was  representative  both  in  the  products  studied  and  in  its  extent 
Some  40  estabhshments  were  investigated,  and  these  were  scattered 
among  10  different  States,  including  both  eastern  and  western  districts 

of  the  United  States.  ^        ,  ,  .    ^  _ , 

The  type  of  estabhshments  visited  embraced  manufacturers  who 
sell  direct  to  the  retailer,  those  who  sell  both  to  retailer  and  jobber, 
and  those  who  sell  to  the  jobber  only. 

These  establishments  employ  7,279  operatives  with  a  total 
amount  paid  out  in  wages  during  the  year  of  $2,219,841.67  and  witu 
net  sales  amounting  to  $9,287,238.  ,  .  ,   .      ^      x*  j 

Knitting  forms  one  of  the  great  divisions  of  fabric  structure  and 
differs  rascally  in  the  principle  of  producing  fabnc  from  that  of 
weaving,  its  basis  being  the  formation  of  a  fabric  or  web  by  means 
of  a  series  of  interlocking  loops,  from  one  or  more  continuous  threads. 
Different  systems  of  interlocking  the  loops  produce  different  styles 
of  stitching,  each  being  best  suited  for  certain  kinds  of  fabric. 

The  machines  used  in  this  manufacture  are  of  two  general  types, 
the  circular  machine  and  the  flat-bed  machine.  The  latter,  used 
extensively  in  tins  industry,  is  an  imported  machine.  ^  .  .    ,      - 

As  different  machines  are  used  for  making  the  different  kinds  ot 
knit  fabrics,  their  separation  into  hard  and  fast  divisions  is  not  feasible, 
as  the  same  machine  can  be  used  for  making  different  fabrics  by 
modifications  of  its  operation  or  by  usmg  special  attachments  or 

In  the  presentation  of  the  information  secured  these  goods  are 
divided  into  two  general  groups.  ^     i  j-    » 

The  fu-st  includes  garments  such  as  sweaters,  sweater  coats,  ladies 
sweater  vests,  skirts,  and  bathing  suits.  *      i 

The  second  includes  hats,  caps,  hoods,  shawls,  toques,  scarfs,  gloves, 
mittens,  hosiery,  and  socks. 

SWEATER  GOODS. 

Sweater  coats  and  sweaters  are  constructed  both  from  the  flat  web 
and  from  the  tubular  fabric.  The  garments  are  shaped  either  by 
cutting  the  parts  to  form  or  by  fashioning  them  on  the  machine. 
When  the  garments  are  cut  to  form  they  are  shrunk  to  the  natural 
Imes  of  the  body  by  means  of  a  wooden  form. 

This  class  of  goods  is  marketed  in  one  of  three  ways  by  the  manufac- 
turer—by selling  only  to  the  jobber,  to  the  jobber  and  retailer,  or  to 
the  retailer  exclusively.  ,     ,.    .„        ,     ,  ^    ^ 

Usually,  where  this  last  method  is  followed,  the  manufacturer  pro- 
duces what  is  known  to  the  trade  as  "handmade  and  hand-hnished 
garments  "  This  class  of  goods  is  considered  of  superior  quality, 
both  as  to  materials  and  workmanship.  This  latter  is  for  the  reason 
that  they  are  made  on  hand  machines  and  the  entire  finishing  proc- 
esses, including  the  sewing,  are  also  handwork. 


i 


912 


BEPOBT  OP  TABIFF  BOARD  OH  SCHEDULE  K, 


HOSIERY. 

Stockings  and  socks  are  manufactured  on  machines  of  the  circular 
latch  needle  type,  and,  also,  on  straight  rotary  machines.  The 
former,  however,  are  the  ones  generally  used  m  the  United  States. 

1  he  machines  used  may  be  either  full  or  partially  automatic. 

In  the  manufacture  of  women's  stockings  the  full  automatic 
machine  naay  run  continuously  from  stocking  to  stocking  without 
assistance  from  the  operator,  while  in  the  manufacture  of  half  hose 
the  machines  must  be  stopped  at  the  end  of  each  article,  although  the 
machines  are  full  automatic. 

Seamless  hosiery  was  originally  made  on  hand  machines,  and  in 
shaping  the  heel  and  toe  the  operator  was  compelled  to  change  the 
needles  for  each  formation.    This  method  has  largely  been  done 

^^•^iw^\?®  *  ^®^"^*  ^^  ^^^  devices  and  attachments. 
^  *  ull-f ashioned  hosiery  may  be  either  seamed  or  seamless,  accord- 
ingly as  it  IS  made  on  a  circular  or  a  flat-bed  knitting  machine.  In  the 
former  variety  the  sock  or  stocking  is  knit  with  plain  or  tuck  stitch  as 
usual  until  the  ankle  part  is  reached,  and  from  thence  the  web  is  nar- 
rowed to  conform  to  the  shape  of  the  leg,  either  by  dropping  a  certain 
number  of  stitches  or  bv  knitting  the  stitches  narrower  and  closer 
together.  Stnctly  speaking,  such  hosiery  can  not  be  called  full- 
fashioned,  but  the  term  is  appHed  rather  loosely  to  it  by  the  trade, 
beamed,  full-fashioned  hosiery,  the  genuine  kind,  is  made  on  the  flat- 
bed straight  kmttmg  machine. 

GLOVES. 

Gloves,  hke  many  other  knitted  garments,  are  made  either  on  a 
circular  or  a  Lamb  machine.  The  better  q uality  of  gloves  are  usually 
made  on  the  latter,  the  production  of  which  is  about  2  dozen  pair  a 
day,  while  the  lower  grades  are  made  on  the  circular  machine  with  an 
average  capacity  of  6  dozen  pair  for  the  same  period. 

SELLING   EXPENSE. 

As  it  has  become  the  custom  of  the  manufacturer  of  fancy  knit 
goods  to  supply  the  market  direct,  there  is  necessarily  added  to  the 
majiiifactunng  cost  an  important  clement  of  selling  expense. 

Ihe  establishments  visited  show  this  expense  to  be  as  follows: 

Cost  of  selling  and  distnbutixm. 

(a)  Commissions  and  salaries  for  salesmen $357  904  75 

(h)  Traveling  expenses  of  salesmen .'.***.*.'.*.**.'*        44'  548* 01 

(c)  Rent  and  mamtenance  of  outside  selling  office 28  293  6^ 

w^^y^niBing. ;:::::::;:::;    sy'mio 

u)  Mam tenance  of  sample  tnmks 1  700  oo 

m  Freight  and  cartage  (outgoing).... V^/S/SSSSSSS^^S^^SS.        33;553!92 

(<7)  Interest  charges 11^061.09 

Total  cost  of  selling  and  distribution  in  lactones  investigated. . . .      615  445  50 
Total  amoun t  of  sales 9  287  238*  00 

Selling  and  cost  of  distribution  is  6.6  per  cent  of  total  sales. 

In  addition  to  the  above  selling  expense  there  is  the  cost  of  boxes, 
labels,  bands,  and  packing.    This  is  not  included  in  the  above  state- 


EEPOET  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K.  913 

ment,  for  the  reason  that  this  expense  is  controlled  almost  exclusively 
by  the  purchaser  and  is  subject  to  his  whim  or  fancy. 

Formerly  this  class  of  goods  was  marketed  through  commission 
houses,  the  line  of  samples  being  of  a  very  narrow  range  compared 
with  the  manufacturer's  present  attempt  to  produce  original  designs 
and  models.  The  products  of  the  earlier  period  were  inferior  to 
those  of  to-day,  both  in  stvle  and  finish. 

The  above  condition  or  affairs  has  greatly  enhanced  the  risk 
that  a  particular  line,  style,  or  finish  will  remain  in  vogue  no  longer 
than  a  season.  Taste  in  knitted  garments  changes  so  rapidly  that  the 
ingenuity  of  the  designer  is  heavily  taxed,  and  therefore  in  no  sense 
can  this  class  of  goods  be  considered  as  standardized. 

In  presenting  the  data  secured,  the  following  methods  have  been 
adopted:  (a)  Individual  discussion  of  typical  garments  and  (6)  tables 
with  a  general  discussion  of  a  range  of  garments. 

men's  sweater  coat. 

MerCs  sweater  coat  No.  501, — To  manufacture  a  dozen  of  these 
garments  requires  15  pounds  of  2/16's  colored  worsted  yarn,  valued  at 
$14.40;  and  trimmings,  consisting  of  buttons,  lining,  thread,  and 
braid,  to  the  value  of  $1.70.  For  the  waste  made  in  the  manufacture 
of  these  garments  12  cents  was  received  by  the  mill,  which  brings  the 
net  value  of  stock  and  trimmings  to  $16.05. 

In  the  conversion  of  this  stock  the  cost  of  winding  amounts  to 
$0,211;  knitting,  $2,967;  cutting,  5  cents;  sewing,  $0,928;  and  finish- 
ing 22  cents;  or  a  total  cost  for  labor  of  $4,376. 

The  department  materials  and  general  expense  amount  to  $1,469. 

The  net  cost  to  the  mill  of  a  dozen  garments  is  $21,895. 

An  additional  charge  of  65  cents  is  made  for  boxes,  labels,  bands, 
and  packing,  but  as  this  is  part  of  the  selhng  rather  than  the  manu- 
facturing expense,  the  same  has  been  omitted. 

A  single  garment  finished  wiU  weigh  19  ounces  and  is  made  to  sell 
at  $3.75  per  garment.  The  mill  in  which  this  garment  is  made 
receives  $30  per  dozen  garments,  less  12  per  cent,  or  $26.40.  This 
mill  sells  direct  to  the  retailer. 

Net  stock  and  trimmings $16. 05 

Conversion: 

Labor $4,376 

Department  materials  and  general  expense 1. 469 

Total  manufacturing  cost 5. 845 

Net  total  mill  cost 21.895 

Net  stock  is  73.30  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor  is  19.99  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost- 
Labor  is  74.87  per  cent  of  total  manufacturing  cost. 

Men^s  sweater  coat  No,  502. — The  stock  entering  into  the  manu- 
facture of  a  dozen  of  these  garments  is  composed  of  9  pounds  of  2/18's 
white  worsted  yarn  plus  9  pounds  of  2/23^s  worsted  yam,  making  a 
total  value  of  $14.40. 

Trimmings  consist  of  buttons,  linings,  and  thread,  costing  $1.65. 

The  labor  cost  per  dozen  garments  is  as  follows:  Winding,  50  cents; 
knitting,  $1.75;  cutting,  43  cents;  sewing,  74  cents;  mending,  24 
cents;  miishing,  19  cents;  total  labor  cost  of  $3.83. 

Overhead  charges,  including  department  materials,  $1.46. 


914        BBPOET  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 

There  is  an  additional  charge  for  boxes,  bands,  labels,  and  packing 
to  the  amount  of  65  cents,  which  has  been  considered  in  the  sellinS 
expense.  ® 

The  finished  garment  weiglis  21  ounces  and  is  manufactured  to 
retail  at  $3.50  per  garment.  The  manufacturer  receives  $24  per 
dozen  garments,  less  6  per  cent,  or  $22.56,  and  the  jobber  $30  per 
dozen.  ^ 

Net  stock  and  trimmings I^g  qk 

Conversion : 

Labor *»  «« 

Department  materials  and  general  expense. .. ..[.., . .  *  *  ] '  .* " ."  * '  [  [  [     i[  43 

Total  manufacturing  cost g  99 

Net  total  mill  cost 21~34 

Net  stock,  75.21  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor,  17.95  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor,  72.40  per  c^nt  of  total  manufacturing  coat. 

Men's  pMn  sweater  coat  No,  SOS^—The  stock  entering  mto  the 
manufacture  of  a  dozen  of  these  garments  is  composed  of  1 4  pounds 
of  colored  worsted  and  cotton  yarn,  the  proportion  of  the  former  to 
the  latter  bemg  as  61  is  to  39.  This  stock  is  valued  at  $4.98,  and  the 
trimmmgs,  consisting  of  buttons  and  thread,  at  24  cents,  bringing 
the  net  value  of  stock  and  trimmings  to  $5.22. 

In  the  conversion  of  this  stock,  the  winding  costs  14  cents-  knit- 
ting 15  cents;  cutting,  5  cents;  sewing,  $1.63;  mending,  25 'cents: 
and  finishmg,  10  cents;  or  a  total  cost  for  labor  of  $1.32? 

Department  materials  and  overhead  charges  amount  to  $1.13. 

The  net  cost  to  the  mOl  for  a  dozen  of  these  garments  is  $7  86 
^or  boxes,  labels,  bands,  and  packing,  a  chaise  of  7  cents  is  made, 
but  as  this  IS  a  seUing  rather  than  a  manufacturing  expense,  the 
same  has  been  omitted.  ^^      f        ;  ^"« 

A  single  finished  garment  wiU  weigh  18  ounces  and  is  made  to  sell 
for  $1  per  garment.     The  manufacturer  receives  $7.50  per  dozen 
less  4  per  cent,  or  $7.20,  while  the  jobber  receives  $9  per  dozen 
garments.  ^ 

Net  stock  and  trimmings $5  22 

Conversion: 

Labor J.,  „2 

Department  materials  and  general  expense '.'.'.'.'.""'.     I.Z2 

Total  manufacturing  cost 2  64 

Net  total  mill  cost TTI 

Net  stock  is  66.41  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor  is  16.79  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor  is  50  per  cent  of  total  manufacturing  cost. 

Menjs  sweater  coat  No,  SO4.— The  stock  entering  into  the  manufac- 
ture of  a  dozen  of  these  garments  is  composed  of  15  pounds  of  4/18'8 
cobred  worsted  and  6  pounds  of  2/20's  woolen  yarns,  valued  at 
114.85,  and  the  tnmmmgs,  consisting  of  lining,  buttons,  and  thread, 
at  75  cents.  The  waste— 2J  pounds—made  in  the  conversion  of 
this  stock  was  sold  bv  the  miU  for  45  cents,  which  brings  the  net 
value  of  the  stock  and  trimmings  to  $15.15. 

In  converting  this  stock  into  the  finished  garment  the  winding  of 
the  yam  cost  57  cents;  the  knitting,  $1.65;  cutting,  .275  cents;  sew- 


BEPOKT  OF  TABIFF  BOAED  ON  SCHEDULE  K.  915 

ing,  $1,045;  mending,  11  cents;  and  finishing,  78  cents;  a  total  of 

$4.43. 
The  department  materials  and  overhead  charges  amount  to  $1.50. 
The  net  cost  therefore  of  a  dozen  of  these  garments  to  the  mill  is 

An  item  of  75  cents,  charged  to  the  manufacturing  expense  for 
boxes,  labels,  bands,  and  packing,  has  been  omitted,  as  this  prop- 
erly belongs  to  the  selling  expense.  ,  ^  n 
A  single  finished  garment  weighs  24^  ounces  and  was  made  to  sell 
at  $5  The  manufacturer  receives  for  a  dozen  of  these  garments 
$27.50,  less  2  per  cent,  or  $26.95,  and  the  jobber  receives  $36  per 
dozen  garments. 

Net  stock  and  trimmings $15.15 

Conversion:  ^a  ^o 

Labor ^-^ 

Department  materials  and  general  expense ^-"^ 

Total  manufacturing  cost - "'^^ 

Net  total  mill  cost 2L08 

Net  stock  is  71.87  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor  is  21.02  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor  is  74.70  per  cent  of  total  manufacturing  cost. 

Men's  neater  coat  No.  505.— The  stock  entering  into  the  manufac- 
ture of  a  dozen  of  these  garments  is  composed  of  28  pounds  of  woolen 
and  worsted  yam,  in  the  proportions  of  about  70  to  30,  and  is  valued 
at  $19.14,  and  the  trimmings,  consisting  of  buttons  and  thread,  at 
85  cents.  The  waste  made  in  the  manufacture  of  these  garments 
amounted  to  6  pounds,  and  was  sold  by  the  mill  for  24  cents,  making 
the  net  value  of  stock  and  trimmings  $19.75. 

In  converting  this  stock  into  the  finished  garment,  the  wmding  of 
the  yam  costs  70  cents;  knitting,  $1;  cutting,  15  cents;  sewing 
(handwork),  $3.03;  and  the  mending  and  finishing,  20  cents;  or  a 
total  labor  cost  of  $5.08. 

The  department  materials  and  overhead  charges  amoimted  to 

77  cents.  ,  „         -  1  1.  ^i 

The  net  total  cost  to  the  mill,  therefore,  for  a  dozen  of  these  gar- 
ments is  $25.60.  ,  .  ,  I.  X    •         J 

For  boxes,  labels,  bands,  and  packing  a  charge  of  52  cents  is  made, 
but  this  has  been  deducted  from  the  manufacturing  expense  and  has 
been  taken  into  consideration  in  the  seUing  expense,  as  the  same  is 
not  properly  chargeable  to  the  former. 

A  single  garment  finished  will  weigh  26§  ounces,  and  is  made  to 
sell  at  from  $5  to  $6.  The  manufacturer  receives  per  dozen  garments 
$33  net  and  the  jobber  $48. 

Net  stock  and  trimmings - ^^^-  ^5 

Conversion: 

Labor ^5. 08 

Department  materials  and  general  expense 77 

Total  manufacturing  cost ^-^^ 

Net  total  mill  cost 25.60 

Net  stock  is  77.15  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor  is  19.84  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor  is  86.84  per  cent  of  total  manufacturing  cost. 


916  BEFtST  OF  TABIFF  BOABO  ON  SCHEDTJia  K. 

Men's  meaUr  coat  No.  606.— The  stock  entering  into  the  manu- 
■^^^^^1  a  dozen  of  these  garments  is  composed  of  24i  pounds  of 
^its;  totd  $27.57       ^''™'  **  *^^-°^'  ^""^  ««dit^aste  of  48 

SO^StT"^  **°^'^*  *"*  buttons,  linings,  thread,  and  hangers,  costing 

J„  J^.^i  'o^  w!^  P^'^  ^°^^°  gannents  is  as  f oUows :  Winding  and  spool- 

h^'  AitL^^'^'-  ®  '^^^^'  f  ""''^'.  17  cents;  sewing,  $2.87;  mend- 
mg^43  cents;  fimshmg,  8  cents;  total  labor  cost,  $8.90. 

Overhead  charges,  mcluding  department  materials,  $3.38. 

tn1^frri!,,tl*5'Tn°''*'**'^^-^u^''{:  ^^'^'  ^'''"^'  ^^^h  and  packing 
to  the  amount  of  50  cents,  which  has  been  considered  in  the  selling 
Gxpcnsc 

r.Slf^fi^^TP™^''^'^?^^  28}  ounces,  and  is  manufactured  to 
fi  npr  oLf\.  I^n  f?*^",^?^*"/«r  receives  $54  per  dozen  garments  less 
b  per  cent,  or  $50.76,  selling  to  retail  dealers  only. 

Net  stock  and  trimmings ♦oo  qt 

Conversion:  ♦^^*  ^' 

Labor 

Department  materials  and  geneml  expense'.*.*  ...."*!!  I  [.*."!!*.**'] '    3]  38 

Total  manufacturing  cost 12  2fi 

Net  total  mill  coat o.  ^^ 

Net  stock,  64.56  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost 
Labor,  25.69  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor,  72.48  per  cent  of  total  manufacturing  cost. 

Men's  Mercoat  No.  o07. -The  stock  entering  into  the  manufac- 
ture of  a  dozen  of  these  garments  is  composed  of  25  pounds  of  1/2's  R. 
colored  Oxford  worsted  yam,  less  25  cents  for  waste,  costing  $19.75 

Trmmungs  consist  of  buttons,  linings,  and  thread,  costing  51  cents* 


Urerhead  charges,  including  department  materials,  $5.71 
Ihere  is  an  additional  charge  for  boxes,  bands,  labels,  and  packing 
to  the  amount  of  72  cents,  wlSch  is  included  in 'the  selling  ^p^l 
_/T  r^in  ^^™^°*  ^^Jlghs  30  ounces  and  is  manufactured  to 
retail  at  $10  per  garment.  The  manufacturer  receives  $52  per  dozen 
garments  less  7  per  cent  or  $48.36.  The  above  garments  are  sold 
to  retail  dealers  only,  and  are  handmade  and  hand  finished. 

Net  stock  and  trimmings -^^  „- 

Conversion:  *^-  ^^ 

l^abor SIO  If? 

Department  materials  and  general  expense *.".".'.*,".*  * .'  .* .'  * ."      6.'  71 

Total  manufacturing  cost , 7!  15  87 

Net  total  mill  cost „_  .„ 

So.  Lo 

Net  stock,  56.07  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 

Labor,  28.12  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 

Labor,  64.02  per  cent  of  total  manufacturing  cost. 

Men's  sweater  coat  No,  S08,~The  stock  entering  into  the  manu- 
lacture  of  a  dozen  of  these  garments  is  composed  of  9  pounds  of  2/18'a 
and  9  pounds  of  2/23's  white  woolen  yarn,  valued  at  $14.40. 

Irimmings  consist  of  buttons,  hnings,  and  thread,  costing  $1.65 


BEPORT  OF  TAKIPF  BOARD   ON  SCHEDUI/E  K.  917 

The  labor  cost  per  dozen  garments  is  as  follows:  Winding,  48  cents; 
knitting,  $1.75;  cutting,  43  cents;  sewing,  74  cents;  mending,  24 
cents;  finishing,  19  cents;  making  a  total  of  $3.80. 

Overhead  charges,  including  department  materials,  $1.46. 

There  is  an  additional  charge  for  boxes,  bands,  labels,  and  packing 
to  the  amount  of  65  cents,  which  has  been  considered  in  the  selling 

The  finished  garment  weighs  21  ounces  and  is  manufactured  to 
retail  at  $3.50  per  garment.  The  manufacturer  receives  $24  per 
dozen  garments,  less  6  per  cent,  or  $22.56,  and  the  jobber  $30  per 
dozen. 

Net  stock  and  trimmings ^l^.  05 

Conversion: 

Labor i  ?? 

Department  materials  and  general  expense 1-  46 

Total  manufacturing  cost 5.  29 

Net  total  mill  cost 21.  34 

Net  stock,  75,21  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor,  17.95  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor,  72.40  per  cent  of  total  manufacturing  cost. 

Men's  sweater  coat  No.  509.— The  stock  entering  into  the  manu- 
facture of  a  dozen  of  these  garments  is  composed  of  12  pounds  of 
2/13's  colored  worsted  yam  plus  10  pounds  of  1/3's  cotton.  The 
worsted  yam  is  valued  at  $5.76  and  the  cotton  at  $2.40,  making  a 

total  of  $8.16. 

Trimmings  consist  of  buttons,  linings,  and  thread,  costing  75  cents. 

The  labor  cost  per  dozen  garments  is  as  follows:  Winding,  22  cents; 
knitting,  30  cents;  cutting,  10  cents;  sewing,  98  cents;  mending,  30 
cents;  finishing,  10  cents;  making  a  total  of  $2. 

Overhead  charges,  including  department  materials,  $2.20. 

There  is  an  additional  charge  for  boxes,  bands,  labels,  and  packing 
to  the  amount  of  7  cents,  which  is  included  in  the  selling  expense. 

The  finished  garment  weighs  28  ounces  and  is  manufactured  to 
retail  at  $2.50  per  garment.  The  manufacturer  receives  $18  per 
dozen  garments  less  4  per  cent,  or  $17.28,  and  the  jobber  $24  per 
dozen. 

Net  stock  and  trimmings -  -  $8. 91 

Conversion:  • 

Labor $2. 00 

Department  materials  and  general  expense 2.  20 

Total  manufactming  cost 4. 20 

Net  total  mill  cost 13. 11 

Net  stock  67.96  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor  15.26  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor  47.62  per  cent  of  total  manufacturing  cost. 

Men's  sweater  coat  No.  510. — The  stock  entering  into  the  manu- 
facture of  a  dozen  of  these  garments  is  composed  of  22  pounds  of 
2/15's  colored  woolen  yams,  valued  at  $18  15,  less  4  cents  for  waste; 
total  value  $18.11. 

Trimmings  consist  of  buttons,  linings,  and  thread,  costing  73  cents. 

32080**— H.  Doc.  342,  62-2,  vol  2 20 


918 


HEPOET  OF  TARIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDUtB  K. 


Ther«  ^'^..^^If '•  ^'''"f '^g  department  materials,  70  cents. 

The  finished  gann'^nrw^h'^g  Z'^t^^.   t^"^^.  ^IT.^' 
The  manufacturer  receives  $30  per  dozen  net.  ^ 

Net  stock  and  trimmings... . 

Conversion:  tl8.84 

Labor 

Department  materiab'tiid'i^ii^^'ei^^;;;;; "  ••;••;  ••••;;  ■•• "  *^-  ^g 

Total  manufacturing  cost ' 

5. 37 

Net  total  null  cost 

?t '*T„''i^-*^  P*' ^•'"t  of  ■><"■  total  mUI  cost. 
T   u     1???  P®'  <=™'  of  net  total  mill  cost, 
labor  86.95  per  cent  of  total  manufacturing  cost. 

Men's  sweater  coat  No.  SI  1. —The  stock  enterine  into  thn  ms^n,, 

s  total  of  $16  45  ^      '  ^  **  *^^-^'^'  '^''  ^  <=«°*«  ^'^  ^»ste, 

T{?i^^  consist  of  buttons,  linings,  and  thread,  costing  73  cents 

The  labor  cost,  per  dozen  garments  is  as  follows:  W^Ssfirflnf,-" 

kmttmg,  $2;  cutting,  25  cents;  mending,  25  cente^  Sinr.in' 

pressmg,  $1.50,  a  total  of  $4.36  cents,  unislung  and 

Sere  k*in^^1?;±j"1!"^  department  materials,  70  cents. 
f^  TI        an  additional  chareefor  boxes,  bands,  labels  and  Dackin<r 

^pense"'""""*  "^  ^  '"''''•  ""^'^  ^^  ^^  charged  to  ?KlliSf 

retail^af^fn*!fr  f™*"*  "^il^  ^^  *'"°«««  ""^  «  manufactured  to 
rarmen!s*ner  ^''™'''*-    ^^^  "'•''^"facturer  receives  $27  per  dozen 

Net  stock  and  trimminga 

Convereion: $17. 18 

Labor 

Department  m&ten'^'and^nimleii^\^V.liy//. ''',', ^*  ?n 

Total  manufacturing  cost ~~ 

-.-....,...,,,. 5. 06 

Net  total  mill  cost. ...  '  

22.24 

Net  stock,  77.25  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost 

Labor,  19.60  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  coet 

l^bor,  86.17  per  cent  of  total  manufacturing  cost. 

Men's  sweater  coat  No,  612 Tho  stnr^lr  <^nf^^*»»  •  *    ^i_ 

ture  of  a  dozen  of  these  gfrLnSrcXoT5'S!KiT4"/  6^' 
colored  worsted  yam,  total  value  $14.     ^  ^     ^  ^^  ^'^^  ^ 

Th„TI!^f„lTil*i'/  ^""«°«  ^"^d  thread,  costing  28  cents. 


to 


Tte^JSntddSShtlelKr^^^^^  ,• 

the  amount  of  82  cents.  wE  iaed'l^tKC^^^^ 


RBPOET  OF  TABIFF  BOABD   ON  SCHEDULE  K,  919 

The  finished  garment  weighs  24  ounces  and  is  manufactured  to 
retail  at  $6.50  per  garment.  The  manufacturer  receives  $48  per 
dozen  garments  less  7  per  cent,  or  $44.64.  These  garments  are  hand- 
made and  hand  finished  and  are  sold  by  the  manufacturers  to  retail 
dealers  only. 

Net  stock  and  trimmings ^1^-  ^ 

Conversion: 

Labor *^^-  ^^ 

Department  materials  and  general  expense ^-  7^o 

Net  manufacturing  cost • l^.  835 

Net  total  mill  cost 28.  51 

Net  stock,  51.49  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor,  38,97  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor,  80.30  per  cent  of  total  manufacturing  cost. 

Men' 8  fvIL-fashioned  sweater  coat  No,  613,— The  stock  entering  into 
the  manufacture  of  a  dozen  of  these  garments  is  composed  of  17 
pounds  of  2/20's  colored  worsted  yam,  valued  at  $18.70. 

Trimmings  consist  of  buttons,  hangers,  and  thread,  costing  54 

cents.  , 

The  labor  cost  per  dozen  garments  is  as  follows:  Winding,  50  cents; 
knitting,  $2.58;  sewing,  $1.2175;  mending,  10  cents ;  finishing,  pressmg, 
and  inspecting,  18  cents;  making  a  total  of  $4.5775. 

Overhead  charges,  including  department  materials,  $2.7185. 

There  is  an  additional  charge  for  boxes,  bands,  labels,  and  packing 
to  the  amount  of  16  cents,  which  is  included  in  the  selling  expense 

The  finished  garment  weighs  21 J  ounces,  and  is  manufactured  to 
retail  at  $6  per  garment.  The  manufacturer  receives  $42  per  dozen 
garments  less  8  per  cent,  or  $38.64.  These  garments  are  sold  to 
the  retail  dealers  only. 

Net  stock  and  trimmings - Jl^*  2440 

Conversion:  ^^  ^^^^ 

Labor ^-  5775 

Department  materials  and  general  expense 2.  7185 

Total  manufacturing  cost 7.  296 

Net  total  mill  coet ~ 26.  54 

Net  stock,  72.51  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor,  17.25  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor,  62.74  per  cent  of  total  manufacturing  cost. 

Men's  sweater  coat  No.  614- — The  stock  entering  into  the  manu- 
facture of  a  dozen  of  these  garments  is  composed  of  9f  pounds  of 
2/32's  colored  worsted  yam  and  10  pounds  of  2/24's  colored  worsted 
yarn,  valued  at  $17.57,  less  1  pound  9  ounces  of  waste,  at  10  cents  per 
pound,  making  the  total  value  of  yarn  $17.42. 

Trimmings  consist  of  buttons,  finings,  and  thread,  costing  85  cents. 

Labor  cost  per  dozen  garments  is  as  follows:  Winding,  42  cents; 
knitting,  $4.40;  cutting,  11  cents;  sewing,  $2.75;  mending,  17  cents; 
finishing,  27  cents;  total,  $8.07. 

Overhead  charges,  mcluding  department  materials,  $5.50. 

There  is  an  additional  charge  for  boxes,  bands,  labels,  and  packing 
to  the  amount  of  80  cents,  which  is  included  in  the  selling  expense. 


920  BEPOET  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCMmVUB  K. 

dozen  garienCfdTeTob^  ilS^^Ze':'^:^^  '''■''  ^^ 

Net  stock  and  trimmings ^  '       ^' 

Conversion:  118.17 

Labor 

Department  materiala 'and 'general  ei^nM*. '. li::!:::":::;; ^'^ 

Total  manufacturing  cost  ' 

,,  ,  13.61 

iMet  total  mill  cost 

iIyZ'  ?q^  '*'■  ''*°i  "i  "*''  \°*^^  >""'  cost- 

i^bor,  59.29  per  cent  of  total  manufacturing  coet. 

,^en's  cardigan  jacket  No.  SIS— Tha  atr^V  ^^t^  •      -^    ,, 
u  acture  of  a  dozen  of  these  garmentekc^mnlW  ,'^1°  *'^«  °"^: 
2/18's  colored  woolen  yarn    valued  «f«n^?j.u^*  Rounds  of 
consisting  of  linings,  buSs,  thread  and  hanl^°l  ^1  trimmings, 
the  wa^temadein  the  manufactu^of  the^tS^if t^  "^S^"-    •  **'" 

V'?k''  "'^'^g.the  net  value  of  stock  mitA^n^slf^L'^^'^'^ 
111  the  conversion  of  thi^  ^fnnlr  inf «  /T  J7^^.^;^^^¥^^gs  $11 .68. 

^es  through  whicrit' pLsrL^'?h*e  ^eo^tfofs^^^^^  *^^r^- 
Spoohng,  88  cents;  knitting,  12.58-  cuttC  17  .»^  ™  ?^  ^°i'°'^^-' 
fs^i'^^'^.^^'^'t' '^'^  finrshiTg,  8  cen*tsT5-  -^^'^°.'''  ^^^°S'  ^^'^^J 

^0.»0.        lo  the  Rhnvo  r^i^ofc   ©o  on  :_        i  i   'i 


I 


these  garments  to  $19  84 
J^hi^C C^i^^^^^^^  cents  is  made, 

A  Single  garment  when  finished  weie-hq  202  <n,/r,^£  ®^R®P^®- 
tured  to  seB  at  $2.50  per  garment     %g  ml n^^^^^^     '''''* '"  manufac- 
dozen  garments  $24  net.    ^*™^^^*     ^^'^  manufacturer  receives  per 

Net  etock  and  trimmings. . 

Convereion:  $11.68 

Labor 

Department  materi'ala  and'generaYexfKjnseV."." ". V^^'l]"" ^'^ 

Total  manufacturing  coat 

8.16 

Net  total  mill  coet 

f ot '^'^'' •is  f/^  P^""  ^«°<^  of  net  tot^  mill  coet ^^'^ 

Labor  13  $29.M  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost 
Labor  IS  71.81  per  cent  of  total  manuTactuTng  coet. 

men's  bathing  suit. 

f^of:i'otfr^^1,Aii%~;^^^^^^^  ^^^  t^e  manu. 

2/16's  colored  worsted  vam^Sw^n  fin  T^^^  ^2  pounds  of 

total,  $9.47.  '      '  ^''™^  *^-^°'  ^«^  13  cents  for  waste; 

^Vunmings  cost  5  cents. 

.  ^^^^^z^^i'tfiTr^-i  sriaiir^^,-  . 

u.g  to  the  amount  of  30  cents,  Ihich  is  ia'dud'eSthetm^"^^^^^ 


KEPOET  OF   TARIFF  BOAEI>  ON  SCHEDULE   K.  921 

The  finished  garment  weighs  15  ounces  and  is  manufactured  to 
retail  at  $3  per  garment.  Tlie  manufacturer  receives  $18  per  dozen 
garments,  less  2  per  cent,  or  $17.64,  and  the  jobber  $24  per  dozen. 

Net  Btock  and  trimmings $9.  52 

Conversion: 

Labor. ............-..-.------- $o.  80 

Department  materials  and  general  expense 9625 

Total  manufacturing  cost ^-  '^^^^ 

Net  total  mill  cost l^-  2825 

Net  stock,  66.65  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor,  26.61  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor,  79.79  per  cent  of  total  manufacturing  cost. 

Men's  bathing  suit  No,  SI  7. —The  stock  entering  into  a  dozen  of 
these  garments  is  composed  of  12  pounds  of  2/24's  colored  worsted 
yarn,  and  is  valued  at  $9  and  the  trimmings  at  5  cents.  In  the  manu- 
facture of  these  garments  the  mill  receives  30  cents  for  the  waste 
made,  making  the  net  value  of  stock  and  trimmings  $8.75. 

To  convert  this  stock  into  the  finished  garments  the  labor  for  wind- 
ing costs  33  cents;  knitting,  55  cents;  cutting,  $0,285;  sewing,  $0,715; 
mending,  11  cents;  and  finishing,  22  cents;  or  a  total  labor  cost  per 
dozen  garments  of  $2.20.  In  addition  to  the  above,  88  cents  is 
added  for  department  materials  and  overhead  charges,  bringing  the 
net  total  cost  to  the  miU  to  $11.38. 

For  boxes,  labels,  bands,  and  packing  a  charge  of  75  cents  is  made. 
This  has  been  deducted  from  the  manufacturmg  and  placed  in  the 
selling  expense. 

A  single  garment  when  finished  weighs  14  ounces,  and  is  made  to 
sell  at  $3  per  garment.  The  manufacturer  receives  per  dozen  gar- 
ments $16.50,  less  2  per  cent,  or  $16.17,  and  the  jobber  $21  per  dozen 
garments. 

Net  stock  and  trimmmgs $8.  75 

Conversion : 

Labor $2.  20 

Department  materials  and  general  expense 88 

Total  manufacturing  cost 3.  08 

Net  total  mill  cost IL  83 

Net  stock  is  73.96  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor  is  18.60  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor  is  71.43  per  cent  of  total  manufacturing  cost. 

ladies'    sweater   COAT. 

Ladies'  sweater  coat  No.  518. — To  manufacture  a  dozen  of  these  gar- 
ments requires  14}  pounds  of  2/1 6's  colored  worsted  yarn  valued  at 
$14.16,  and  trimmings,  consisting  of  finings,  buttons,  and  thread, 
valued  at  $1.01.  The  waste  made  in  the  manufacture  of  these  gar- 
ments was  sold  by  the  mill  for  28  cents,  making  the  net  value  of  stock 
and  trimmings  $i4.89. 

In  the  conversion  of  this  stock  the  cost  of  winding  yam  amounts  to 
$0,208;  the  knitting,  $4,485;  cutting,  15  cents;  sewing,  $1,021;  and 
finishing,  15  cents,  a  total  cost  for  labor  of  $6,014. 

The  department  materials  and  overhead  charges  amount  to 
$1,492. 


m 


922        REPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOAKD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 

122.3%^^*  ^""^^  **"  *^®  ™"'  therefore,  of  a  dozen  of  these  garments  is 

kJ^'^  ''^^r^^  ""fi^*^  cents  for  boxes,  labels,  bands,  and  packing  haa 
a^^L*''""     ^  ^^^  ®^™®  ^^^  properly  chargeable  to  the  selHng 

n  Ja!!^!!!^"^  garment  weighs^ie  ounces  and  is  made  to  sell  at  $4.50 
per  garment.  This  mill  sells  direct  to  the  retailer  and  receives,  per 
dozen  garments,  $36  less  12  per  cent,  or  $31.68.  ^ 

Net  stock  and  trimmings . 

Conversion:  *      ^ 

Labor !«  ou 

Department  materials  and  general  expense  ...'.* .' .'  .* .' ." ." .'  .* ." .' '  J  .*  .*  .*  J  .*  J     j  492 

Total  manulacturing  cost ~    •,  c/iis 

Net  total  mill  cost „„ 

Net  stock  18  66  49  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 

Labor  is  26.85  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cent. 
Labor  is  80.12  per  cent  of  total  manufacturing  cost. 

Ladies' ^eater  coat  (fHa-fashioiud)  iVo.5;5.— In  the  manufacture  of  a 
dozen  of  these  garments  18  pounds  of  2/20'8,  lO's  quaUty.  plain  worsted 
yam  valued  at  $19.80  is  used.    The  trimmings,  consisting  of  buttoM 

^mSsTioT44"°'  *"  ''■'''•  "'"^'^  *^«  -*  -•-  '^  «*->^  -" 
,  In  converting  the  stock  into  the  finished  garment,  the  cost  of  wind- 
ing is  50  cents;  kmtting,$6.08;  sewing,  $1,345;  mending,  10  cents- 
and  inspecting,  15  cents,  or  a  total  cost  for  labor  of  $8,175 

The  overhead  charges  and  department  materials  amount  to  $3  129 
1  He  net  cost  of  a  dozen  of  these  garments  is  $31 .638. 
!•  or  boxes,  labels,  bands  and  packing  a  charge  of  16  cents  is  made 
but  this  Item  ha^  been  deducted  for  the  reason  that  the  same  shoulci 
be  included  in  the  selhng  expense. 

^.t^^"^?  ^^"^^^/^  fi^«^^^'  r^l  weigh  21  ounces,  and  is  made  to  seU 
at  $7.  1  he  manufacturer  of  these  garments  sells  direct  to  the  retailer 
and  receives  per  dozen  $48,  less  8  per  cent,  or  $44.16. 

Net  stock  and  trimmings •oa  «^^ 

Conversion:  *^-  ^^^ 

Labor 18  i7rc 

Department  materials  and  general  expense .".".'.".*.".'*'' .''■.**.'    3.'  119 

Total  manufacturing  cost "  ,,  204 

Net  total  mill  cost „, 

Net  stock  is  64.30  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. ' 

liabor  IS  25.84  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor  is  72.38  per  cent  of  total  manufacturing  cost. 

Ladies'  sweater  coat  No  520 —In  the  manufacture  of  a  dozen  of 

ThTvitr^/'fl.^-^*  pounds  of  2/25's  colored  woolen  yarns  is  used! 
Ihe  value  of  this  yarn  is  $9.45.     The  trimmings,  such  as  Uninss 

E  Z^ff^T"^'  and  hangers,  cost  68  cents.  For  the  waste  madefn 
the  manufacture  of  these  garments  the  miU  receives  30  cents,  which 
brings  the  net  value  of  stock  and  trimmings  to  $10.13.  ' 

In  the  convereion  of  this  stock  into  the  finished  garments,  the 
BTocesses  through  which  it  passes  and  the  costs  of  same  are  ^'  fol! 
lows:  Wmdmg  and  spooling,  70  cents;  knitting,  $3.80;  cutting   17 

SLfia  ^'-^^^  "''^^'  ^^  ^^^'  ^^  ^^^g'  8  cente,V; 


, 


EEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K.        923 

The  department  materials  and  overhead  charges  amount  to  $2.85. 
The  net  cost  to  the  mill  of  a  dozen  of  these  garments,  therefore,  is 

$20.16.  ,  J 

Boxes,  labels,  bands,  and  packing,  costing  55  cents,  are  charged  to 
these  garments,  but  as  this  is  a  part  of  the  selling  expense  the  amount 

has  been  omitted.  n    ^  •o  m 

The  finished  garment  weighs  15  ounces,  and  is  made  to  sell  at  $3.50 
per  garment.  For  a  dozen  of  these  garments  the  manufacturer 
receives  $30  net. 

Net  stock  and  trimmings $9.  83 

Conversion:  »c  aq 

lj';xhoT fo.  48 

Department  materials  and  general  expense ^-^ 

Total  manufacturing  cost ^^-  ^^ 

Net  total  mill  cost 20.16 

Net  stock  is  48.76  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor  is  32.14  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor  is  62.73  per  cent  of  total  manufacturing  cost. 

Ladies'  sweater  coat  No.  521.— In  the  manufacture. of  a  dozen  of  the 
above  garments  15  pounds  of  2/20s  plain  woolen  yarn  is  used.  The 
value  of  this  yarn  is  $10.50.  The  trimmings,  consisting  of  linings, 
buttons,  and  thread,  are  valued  at  $0,495.  For  the  waste  made  in 
the  manufacture  of  these  garments  the  mill  receives  6  cents,  which 
brings  the  net  value  of  stock  and  trimmings  to  $10,935. 

In  converting  this  stock  into  the  finished  garments  the  winding  of 
yarn  costs  36  cents;  the  knitting,  82  cents;  cutting,  15  cents;  sewing, 
87  cents;  and  mending,  20  cents;  a  total  of  $2.40. 

The  department  materials  and  overhead  charges  amount  to  $0.52. 

The  total,  therefore,  to  the  mill  of  a  dozen  of  these  garments  is 

51«j«ooo. 

A  charge  of  52  cents  is  made  for  boxing,  labels,  bands,  and  packmg. 
These,  however,  belong  to  the  selling  expense,  and  for  that  reason  are 
omitted  from  the  manufacturing  cost. 

A  single  finished  garment  will  weigh  14^  ounces  and  is  made  to  sell 
at  $2.50  per  garment.  The  manufacturer  receives  per  dozen  gar- 
ments $16.50,  less  12  per  cent,  or  $14.52,  while  the  jobber  receives 
$22.50  per  dozen  garments. 

Net  stock  and  trimmings $10-  935 

Conversion: 

Labor ^2. 40 

Department  materials  and  general  expense 52 

Total  manufacturing  cost 2. 92 

Net  total  mill  cost 13.  855 

Net  stock  is  78.92  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor  is  17.32  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor  is  82.19  per  cent  of  total  manufacturing  cost. 

Ladies*  sweater  coat  No.  522. — In  the  manufacture  of  a  dozen  of 
these  garments  lOJ  pounds  of  2/30s  colored  worsted  yam  and  IJ 
poun4s  of  colored  worsted,  cotton,  and  silk  yarn,  valued  at  $10.69,  is 
used.  The  trimmings,  such  as  linings,  buttons,  and  thread,  amount 
to  $1.32.    The  waste  made  in  the  manufacture  of  these  garments  is 


M 


924 


BEPOET  OF  TAETFF  BOABD  OK  SCHEDULE  K. 


3i  pounds,  for  which  the  mill  receives  17i  cents,  making  the  net 
value  of  stock  and  trimmings  $11,835. 

In  converting  tliis  stock  into  the  finished  garment  the  winding 
costs  24  cents;  the  warping,  30  cents;  knitting,  $1.28;  cutting  and 
steaming,  38  cents;  sewmg,  77  cents;  mending,  17  cents;  and  finish- 
ing, 12  cents;  a  total  of  $3.26. 

The  department  materials  and  overhead  charges  amount  to  $2.62. 

The  net  cost  of  these  garments  to  the  mill  amounts  to  $17,715. 

The  charge  of  85  cents  for  boxes,  labels,  bands,  and  packing  has 
been  omitted  from  the  cost  of  these  garments,  the  same  oeing  prop- 
erly chargeable  to  selling  expense. 

The  finished  weight  or  a  smgle  garment  is  11  ounces  and  it  is  made 
to  sell  at  $5.  For  a  dozen  of  these  garments  the  manufacturer 
receives  $25,  less  10  per  cent,  or  $22.50,  while  the  jobber  receives  $33 
per  dozen  garments. 

Net  stock  and  trimmings Ill-  835 

Conversion: 

Labor |3. 26 

Department  materials  and  general  expense 2.  62 

Total  manufacturing  cost 5. 88 

Net  total  mill  cost 17.715 

Net  stock  is  66.81  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor  is  18.40  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor  is  55.44  per  cent  of  total  manufacturing  cost. 

Ladies^  sweater  coat  No.  523. — The  stock  used  in  the  manufacture 
of  a  dozen  of  these  above  garments  is  composed  of  14  pounds  of  2/18'8 
colored  worsted  yam,  valued  at  $14.  The  trimmings,  such  as  linings, 
buttons,  and  thread,  amount  to  $1.10.  For  the  waste  made  in  the 
manufacture  of  these  garments  the  mill  receives  30  cents,  which  brings 
the  net  value  of  stock  and  trimmiugs  to  $14.80. 

The  conversion  of  this  stock  into  tne  finish  d  gannent  costs  for  wind- 
ing of  the  yam  38  cents;  knitting,  $3.57;  cutting,  $0,275;  sewing, 
$0,915;  mending,  11  cents;  and  finishing,  51  cents;  or  a  total  labor 
cost  of  $5.76. 

The  department  materials  and  overhead  charges  amount  to  $1.56. 

The  net  cost  to  the  mill,  therefore,  of  a  dozen  of  these  garments  is 

For  boxes,  labels,  bands,  and  packing  a  charge  of  75  cents  is  made, 
but  as  this  belongs  to  the  selling  rather  than  to  the  manufacturing 
expense,  the  same  has  been  omitted. 

A  single  garment  finished  weighs  16  ounces  and  is  made  to  sell  at 
from  $3.50  to  $4  per  garment.  The  manufacturer  receives  for  a  dozen 
of  these  garments  $25,  less  2  per  cent,  or  $24.50,  while  the  jobber 
receives  $30  per  dozen  garments. 

Net  stock  and  trimmings |14, 80 

Conversion: 

Labor 15.  76 

Department  materials  and  general  expense JL56 

Total  manufacturing  cost 7. 32 

Net  total  mill  cost '  22.12 

Net  stock  is  66.91  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor  is  26.04  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor  is  78.69  per  cent  of  total  manufacturing  coeL 


i 


BEPOET  OF  TARIFF  BOAED  ON  SCHEDTTLE  K.  925 

Ladies'  sweater  coat  No.  ^-^^.—The  stock  entering  into  the  manu- 
facture of  a  dozen  of  these  garments  is  composed  of  16^  pounds 
of  2/30  s  colored  worsted  yarn  valued  at  $13.20,  and  the  trimmings 
consistmg  of  buttons  and  thread,  at  47  cents.  The  waste  made 
in  the  manufacture  of  these  garments  is  sold  for  27  cents,  making 
the  net  value  of  the  stock  and  trimmings  $12.40. 

In  converting  this  stock  into  the  finished  garments,  the  processes 
through  which  it  passes  and  the  costs  of  same  are  as  follows:  Winding 
of  yarn,   63   cents;  knitting,   86   cents;  cutting,    40   cents;  sewing 
90  cents;  and  mendmg  and  finishing,   35  cents;     a  total  cost  of 

_  The  department  materials,  such   as  paraffin,   needles,  etc.,   and 
the  overhead  charges  amount  to  $2.94. 

The  net  cost  of  these  garments,  therefore,  to  the  mill  is  $19.48. 

An  additional  charge  of  60  cents  is  made  for  boxes,  bands,  labels, 
and  packing,  but  this  item  should  be  included  in  the  seUing  expense 
and  has  therefore  been  omitted  from  the  cost  of  these  garments 

A  single  garment  when  finished  weighs  18  ounces,  and  is  made 
to  retail  at  $4,  the  manufacturer  receiving  $24  per  dozen  garments, 
less  7  per  cent,  or  $22.72,  and  the  jobber  $33  per  dozen. 

Net  stock  and  trimmings •!  o  >< a 

Conversion:  ^^^'^ 

Labor s*^  1 4 

Department  materials  and  general  expense . . . .  ^  1 . !  1  ]  1  ] ! !  ]  ]  ]  [  ]  ]  1 ".     2.  94 

Total  manufacturing  cost g  no 

Net  total  mill  cost ~~1Q~48 

Net  stock  is  68.  79  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor  is  16.12  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor  is  51.64  per  cent  of  total  manufacturing  cost. 

Ladies'  sweater  coat  No.  625.~The  stock  entering  into  these  gar- 
ments is  composed  of  HJ  pounds  of  2/20's  plain  worsted  yarn,  and 
is  valued  at  $1 1.37,  while  the  trimmings,  consisting  of  hnings,  buttons 
and  thread,  cost  87  cents.  In  the  manufacture  of  these  garments 
the  waste  made  is  sold  for  14  cents,  making  the  net  value  of  stock 
and  trimmmgs  $12.10. 

To  convert  tliis  stock  into  the  finished  garments  cost  $0  285 
for  wmdmg;  $0,285  for  warping;  82  cents  for  knitting;  25  cents 
for  cuttmg;  84  cents  for  sewing;  and  32  cents  for  mending  and 
fmishmg;  or  a  total  cost  for  labor  of  $2.80.  The  department  ma- 
terials and  overhead  charges  amount  to  $2.59,  making  the  net 
total  cost  to  the  null  of  a  dozen  of  these  garments  $17  49 

The  charge  of  $1.84  for  boxes,  labels,  bands,  and  packing  is  properiy 
chargeable  to  the  selling  expense,  and  has  therefore  been  omftted. 

A  single  garment  when  finished  weighs  16 J  ounces,  and  is  manu- 
factured: to  seU  at  $4.50  per  garment.  The  manufacturer  receives 
per  dozen  garments  $24,  less  7  per  cent,  or  $22.32,  and  the  jobber 

Net  stock  and  trimmings -.,„  ^^ 

Conversion:  *^^-  ■'•" 

Labor .  ^  ^ 

Department  materials  and  general  expense V..... ............    2  b^ 

Total  manufacturing  cost ego 

Net  total  mill  cost "iT^ 

Net  stock  is  69.10  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor  is  15.99  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
l&hot  is  51.95  per  cent  of  total  manufacturing  coet. 


926        BEPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 

Ladled  swmtsr  coat  No.  5M.—The  stock  entering  into  the  manu- 
facture of  a  dozen  oi  these  garments  is  composed  of  16  pounds  of 
2/1 6's  plain  and  colored  worsted  yam,  valued  at  $14,  and  the  trim- 
mmgs,  consisting  of  linings,  buttons,  and  thread,  at  64  cents.  The 
waste  made  amounts  to  4  pounds,  for  which  the  mill  receives  40 
cents,  making  the  net  value  of  stock  and  trimmings  $14.24. 

To  convert  this  stock  into  the  finished  garments,  the  cost  for  wmd- 
ing  amounts  to  $1.01;  knitting,  $2.20;  cutting,  35  cents;  sewmg, 
11.34;  mending,  9  cents;  finishing.  5  cents;  and  pressing  and  exam- 
ining, 15  cents;  or  a  total  cost  for  labor  of  $3.74.  In  addition  to  the 
labor  cost  $3.74  is  added  for  department  materials  and  overhead 
charges.    This  will  bring  the  net  cost  to  the  mill  of  a  dozen  of  these 

garments  to  $23.17.  ,  ,    i     i       i 

An  additional  charge  of  72  cents  is  made  for  boxes,  labels,  bands, 
and  packing,  but  this  has  been  omitted  from  the  manufacturmg  and 
charged  to  the  selling  expense,  the  same  not  being  properly  charge- 
able to  the  former.  . 

A  single  garment  when  finished  will  weigh  16  ounces  and  is  manu- 
factured to  sell  at  from  $5  to  $5.50  per  garment.  The  manufacturer 
receives,  per  dozen  garments,  $36,  less  7  per  cent,  or  $33.48. 

Net  stock  and  trimmings 114. 24 

Conversion: 

Labor o'  i^ 

Department  materials  and  general  expense ^'4 

Total  manufacturing  cost ^- ^^ 

Net  total  mill  cost 23. 1 7 

Net  stock  is  61.46  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 

Labor  is  22.40  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 

Labor  is  58.12  per  cent  of  total  manufacturing  cost. 

Ladies'  sweater  coat  No.  627. — ^The  stock  required  to  manufac- 
ture a  dozen  of  these  garments  is  19  pounds  of  single  3R  colored 
worsted  yam  valued  at  $13.25,  and  the  trimmings,  consisting  of 
buttons  and  thread,  at  39  cents.  The  waste  made  in  manufacturing 
these  garments  amounts  to  2  pounds,  for  which  the  mill  receives  10 
cents,  making  the  net  value  of  stock  and  trimmings  $13.54. 

In  the  conversion  of  tliis  stock  into  the  finished  garments  the  wind- 
ing of  the  yarn  costs  46  cents;  knitting,  $2 ;  cutting,  18  cents;  sewmg, 
65  cents;  mending,  17  cents;  and  finishmg,  12  cents;  or  a  total  cost 
for  labor  of  $3.58.  To  this  must  be  added  $3.18  for  department 
materials  and  overhead  charges,  making  the  net  cost  to  the  mill  of  a 
dozen  of  these  garments  $20.30. 

The  charge  of  $1  for  boxes,  labels,  bands,  and  packing  has  been 
deducted  from  the  manufacturing  and  included  in  the  selling  exnense, 
as  it  is  to  this  latter  expense  that  the  same  is  properly  chargeable. 

A  single  finished  garment  will  weigh  23§  ounces,  and  is  manufac- 
tured to  sell  at  $7.  The  manufacturer  receives  for  these  garments  per 
dozen  $33,  less  10  per  cent,  or  $29.70,  and  the  jobber  receives  $48. 

Net  stock  and  trimmings 513. 54 

Conversion: 

Labor *? *; ? 

Department  materials  and  general  expense 3. 18 

Total  manufacturing  cost ^-76 

Net  total  mill  cost 20. 30 

Net  stock  is  66.70  per  cent  of  net  toUl  mill  cost. 

Labor  is  17.64  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 

Labor  is  52.96  per  cent  of  total  manufacturing  cost. 


BEPOBT  OF   TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE   K.  927 

Ladies'  sweater  coat  No.  628.— The  stock  entering  into  the  manu- 
racture  of  a  dozen  of  these  garments  is  composed  of  14  pounds  of 
2/30  s  white  worsted  yarn  and  4  pounds  of  2/20's  white  worsted  yam, 
costmg  $14.68,  less  12  cents  for  waste,  or  $11.36. 

*u  ^^^^.^^^'i^i^^®^^*'"^,^^  1  ^^^^^  Preston  collars  costing  $1.70,  with 
the^additional  buttons,  linings,  hooks  and  eyes,  make  the  totai  cost 

1  ^h^  ^^^^^  ^^®*  P®^  ^^^^^  garments  is  as  f oUows :  Winding,  35  cents  • 
Jmittmg,  $121 ;  cuttmg,  35  cents;  sewing,  $1.50;  mending  and  finish- 
mg, 35  cents;  total  labor  cost,  $3.76. 

Overhead  charges,  includmg  department  materials,  $3.76. 

Ihere  is  an  additional  charge  for  boxes,  bands,  labels,  and  packing 
to  the  amount  of  $1.96,  which  is  included  in  the  selling  expense. 
.  i'^  TTJ^^^  garment  weighs  22i  ounces  and  is  manufactured  to 
retail  at  $6  per  garment.     The  manufacturer  receives  $33  per  dozen 
garments,  less  7  per  cent,  or  $31.69;  and  the  jobber  $48  per  dozen. 

Net  stock  and  trimmings ti7  ci 

Conversion:  °  *  *^'*  ^^ 

Labor ^ 

Department  materials  and  general  expense .*.'*'.'.'.*.".* ." ." .* *     3.'  67 

Total  manufacturing  cost y  ^^ 

Net  total  mill  cost 2^94 

Net  stock,  70.21  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor,  15.08  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor,  50.61  per  cent  of  total  manufacturing  cost. 

Ladies  swmUr  coat  No.  529.— The  stock  entering  into  the  manu- 
facture of  a  dozen  of  these  garments  is  composed  of  13i  pounds  com- 
bination worsted  and  cotton  yam  as  follows:  One  end  of  2/20^s 
worsted  one  end  of  l/12;s  cotton,  and  two  ends  of  1/6-1/2's,  costing 
$5.53  plus  one  end  of  2/20's  worsted  and  one  end  of  1/12's  cottoS 
J^^^'f  *  pounds  costing  87  cents,  yarn  valued  at  $6.40  less  9  cents 
for  waste^  making  the  total  value  $6.31. 

Tnmmings  consist  of  buttons,  linings,  and  thread,  costmg  50  cents. 

ine  labor  cost  per  dozen  garments  is  as  follows:  WincW,  $0  375- 
knittmg,  65  cents;  cutting,  $1.25;  sewing,  $2.25;  mendi^  $i  25- 
fimshmg  $0.525 ;  total  lab?r,  $2,025.  menoing   $i.J5, 

Overhead  charges,  including  department  materials,  79  cents. 

There  is  an  additional  charge  for  boxes,  bands,  labels,  and  packing 
to  the  amount  of  34  cents,  which  is  included  in  the  selling  expe^ 
r^ft^®  finished  garment  weighs  21i  ounces  and  is  manuSctured  to 
retail  at  $2.50  per  garment.  The  manufacturer  receives  $15  per 
dozen  garments  less  7  per  cent,  or  $13.95,  and  the  jobber  $21  per 

Net  stock  and  trimmings 

Conversion :  f o.  81 

Labor ^ 

Department  materials  and  genemVeiJinse'.  * '. '. '. .' .' .' .' .' .'  .*  .* ." ." ." ." ; ." .'  .* .'  ^  79 

Total  manufacturing  cost ~    o  oik 

Net  total  mill  cost ~ 

Net  stock,  70.75  per  cent  of  net  total  miII<;ost 
Labor,  21.04  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor,  71.94  per  cent  of  total  manufacturing  cost. 


928  REPOET  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDTTLB  K. 

Ladies  sweater  coat  No.  SSO.— The  stock  entering  into  the  manu- 
facture of  a  dozen  of  these  garments  is  composed  of  13  pounds  of 
2/15's  colored  worsted  yam,  value  $10.40. 

Trimmings  consist  of  buttons,  linings,  and  thread,  costing  86  J  cents. 

The  labor  cost  per  dozen  garments  is  as  follows:  Winding,  40  cents; 
knitting,  $1.69;  cutting,  15  cents;  sewing,  88  cents;  mendmg,  13 
cents;  finishing,  28  cents;  total.  $3.53. 

Overhead  charges,  including  department  matenals,  $1.06. 

There  is  an  additional  charge  for  boxes,  bands,  labels,  and  packing 
to  the  amount  of  30  cents,  which  is  included  in  the  selling  expense. 

The  finished  garment  weighs  16  ounces  and  is  manufactured  to 
retail  at  $3  per  garment.  The  manufacturer  receives  $19.50  per 
dozen  garments  less  2  per  cent,  or  $19.11,  and  the  jobber  receives  $24 
per  dozen  garments  less  7  per  cent,  or  $23.02. 

Net  stock  and  trimmings ^H-  265 

Conversion:  '  ^  ^^ 

Labor -*••-•  ♦J-o3 

Depaxtment  materials  and  general  expense.  ...•-.. !•  00 

Total  manufacturing  cost ^-^^ 

Net  total  mill  cost 1^-  ^ 

Net  stock,  71.07  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor,  22.27  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor,  76.91  per  cent  of  total  manufacturing  cost. 

Ladies  sweater  coat  No.  SSL— The  stock  entering  into  the  manu- 
facture of  a  dozen  of  these  garments  is  composed  of  15i  pounds  of 
2/32's  colored  worsted  yarn,  valued  at  $14.34,  less  3i  pounds  of 
waste  valued  at  $0,375,  making  total  value  $13,965. 

Trimmings  consist  of  buttons,  hnin^,  and  thread,  costing  85  cents. 

The  labor  cost  per  dozen  garments  is  as  follows:  Winding,  $0,265; 
warping,  $0.265 ;  knitting,  $1.71;  cutting,  40  cents;  sewing,  $1.25; 
mending,  17  cents;  finislung,  22  cents;  making  a  total  of  $4.28. 

Overhead  charges,  including  department  materials,  $4,115. 

There  is  an  additional  charge  for  boxes,  bands,  labels,  and  packing 
to  the  amount  of  80  cents,  which  is  included  in  the  selling  expense. 

The  finished  garment  weighs  1&-2/3  ounces  and  is  manufactured 
to  retail  at  $5  per  garment.  The  manufacturer  receives  $26.50  per 
dozen  garments  net,  and  the  jobber  $30.69  per  dozen. 

Net  stock  and  trimmings ^^^-  ^^^ 

Conversion: 

Labor *1  i? r 

Department  materials  and  general  expense ^'li^o 

Total  manufacturing  cost ^-  ^^^ 

Net  total  mill  cost 23. 21 

Net  stock,  64  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor,  18  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor,  51  per  cent  of  total  manufacturing  cost. 

Ladies  sweater  coat  No.  532.— The  stock  entering  into  the  manu- 
facture of  a  dozen  of  these  garments  is  composed  of  16  pounds  of 
2/23's  white  woolen  yarn,  valued  at  $11.20. 

Trimmings  consist  of  buttons,  linings,  and  thread,  costing  $1.15. 

The  labor  cost  per  dozen  garments  is  as  follows:  Winding,  48  cents; 
knitting,  $1.75;  cutting,  43  cents;  sewing,  74  cents;  mending,  24 
cents;  finishing,  19  cents;  making  a  total  of  $3.83. 


i 


. 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K.  929 

Overhead  charges,  including  department  materials,  $1.20. 
^    There  is  an  additional  charge  for  boxes,  bands,  labels,  and  pack- 
mg  to  the  amount  of  65  cents,  which  is  included  in  the  selling  ex- 
pense. 

The  finished  garment  weighs  17i  ounces  and  is  manufactured  to 
retail  at  $2  per  garment.  The  manufacturer  receives  $18  per 
dozen  less  7  per  cent,  or  $17.74.  The  above  garments  are  sold  to 
retail  dealers  only. 

Net  stock  and  trimmings $12  35 

Conversion: 

Labor 43  §3 

Department  materials  and  general  expense l! 20 

Total  manufacturing  cost 5, 03 

Net  total  mill  cost 17. 38 

Net  stock,  71.06  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor,  22.04  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor,  76.14  per  cent  of  total  maufacturing  cost. 

Ladies'  sweater  coat  No.  S33.~The  stock  entering  into  the  manu- 
facture of  a  dozen  of  these  garments  is  composed  of  20J  pounds  of 
colored  worsted  yam  valued  at  $16.20. 

Trimmings  consist  of  buttons  and  thread,  costing  28  cents. 

The  labor  cost  per  dozen  garments  is  as  follows:  Winding,  24 
cents;  knitting,  $4.32;  sewing,  $6.05;  mending,  26  cents;  finishing, 
12  cents,  making  a  total  of  $10.99. 

Overhead  charges,  including  department  materials,  $3,405. 

There  is  an  additional  charge  for  boxes,  bands,  labels,  and  packing 
to  the  amount  of  82  cents,  which  is  included  in  the  selling  expense. 

The  fimshed  garment  weighs  27  ounces,  and  is  manufactured  to 
retail  at  $6.50  per  garment.  The  manufacturer  receives  $48  per 
dozen  less  7  per  cent,  or  $44.64.  These  garments  are  handmade  and 
h^nd  fimshed,  and  are  sold  by  the  manufacturer  to  retail  dealers  only. 

Net  stock  and  trimmings ♦26  48 

Conversion: 

Labor....   ...        .  110  99 

Uepartment  materials  and  general  expense 3. 405 

Total  manufacturing  cost ^ X4. 395 

Net  total  mill  cost 30  375 

Net  stock  53.38  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor  35.60  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor  76.35  per  cent  of  total  manufacturing  cost. 

Ladies'  sweater  coat  No.  S34.—The  stock  entering  into  the  manu- 
facture of  a  dozen  of  these  garments  is  composed  of  15  pounds  of  2/30's 
colored  worsted  yam,  valued  at  $12,  less  2J  poundb  waste,  valued 
at  $0,165,  making  total  value  $11,835. 

Trimmings  consist  of  buttons,  lining,  braid,  hooks  and  eyes,  and 
thread,  costing  76  cents. 

The  labor  cost  per  dozen  garments  is  as  follows:  Winding,  30  cents; 
drawing  m,  45  cents;  warpmg,  25  cents;  knitting,  75  cents;  cutting, 
$0,175;  sewing,  $0,875;  mending,  $0,275;  finishing,  $0,125,  making 
a  total  of  $3.20.  '  ^ 

Overhead  charges,  including  department  materials,  $2,575. 


930        RBPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 

There  is  an  additional  charge  for  boxes,  bands,  labels,  and  packing 
to  the  amount  of  60  cents,  which  is  included  in  the  selling  expense. 

The  finished  garment  weighs  21 J  ounces  and  is  manufactured  to 
retail  at  $5  per  garment,  the  manufacturer  receiving  S27  per  dozen 
garments,  less  7  per  cent,  or  $25.11,  and  the  jobber  receiving  $36  per 
dozen  garments. 

Net  stock  and  trimmings |12. 595 

Conversion:  ^^  ^^ 

Labor 13.20 

Department  materials  and  general  expense 2.565 

Total  manufacturing  cost 5. 775 

Net  total  mill  cost 18. 370 

Net  stock  is  68.56  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor  is  17.42  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor  is  55.41  per  cent  of  total  manufacturing  cost. 

Ladies'  sweater  coat  No.  535. — The  stock  entering  into  the  manu- 
facture of  a  dozen  of  these  garments  is  composed  of  13  pounds  of 
2/23's  plain  woolen  yarn,  valued  at  $8.45,  less  1}  pounds  of  waste 
at  10  cents,  making  total  value  $8.35. 

Trimmings  consist  of  buttons,  braid,  linings,  and  thread,  costing 

40  cents. 

Labor  cost  per  dozen  garments  is  as  follows:  Winding,  16  cents; 
knitting,  $1.17;  cutting,  $0,125;  sewing,  $0,675;  mending,  20  cents; 
finishing,  $0,125,  making  a  total  of  $2,455. 

Overhead  charges,  including  department  materials,  $1.90. 

There  is  an  admtional  charge  for  boxes,  bands,  labels,  and  packing 
to  the  amount  of  60  cents,  which  is  included  in  the  selling  expense. 

The  finished  garment  weighs  16i  ounces  and  is  manufactured  to 
retail  at  $3  per  garment,  the  manufacturer  receiving  $18  per 
dozen  garments,  less  7  per  cent,  or  $17.43,  and  the  jobber  $24  per 
dozen. 

Net  stock  and  trimmings $8.  75 

Conversion:  .„  ...^ 

Labor 12.455 

Department  materials  and  general  expense 1. 90 

Total  manufacturing  cost 4. 355 

Net  total  mOl  cost 13.105 

Net  stock  is  66.77  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor  is  18.73  per  cent  of  net  t^Jtal  mill  cost. 
Labor  is  56.37  per  cent  of  total  manufacturing  cost. 

ladies'  sweater  vest. 

Ladies'  sweater  vest  No.  536.— The  stock  entering  into  the  manu- 
facture of  a  dozen  of  these  garments  is  composed  of  51  pounds  of 
3/16'8  colored  worsted  yarn,  valued  at  $4.20. 

Trimmings  consist  of  buttons  and  thread  valued  at  $0,485. 

The  labor  cost  per  dozen  garments  is  as  follows:  Winding,  6  cents; 
knitting,  $2.40;  sewmg,  $3.60,-  mending,  26  cents;  finishing,  12  cents; 
total,  $6.44. 

Overhead  charges,  including  department  materials,  $2.28. 

There  is  an  additional  charge  tor  boxes,  bands,  labels,  and  pack- 
ing to  the  amount  of  58  cents,  which  is  included  in  the  selling  expense. 


1 


J 


BEPOET  OF  TAEIFF  BOAED  ON  SCHEDULE  K.        931 

The  finished  garment  weighs  7  ounces  and  is  manufactured  to 
retail  at  $3  per  garment,  the  manufacturer  receiving  $24  per  dozen 
garments,  less  7  per  cent,  or  $22.32.  The  above  garments  are  sold  to 
retail  dealers  only. 

Net  stock  and  trimmings •>•  «qc 

Conversion:  ^  ^'^^ 

it^^'r;- •:-•-;--.---•-■; , $6.44 

l^epartment  materials  and  general  expense 2. 28 

Total  manufacturing  cost g  72 

Net  total  mill  cost ~13~405 

Net  stock  34.95  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor  48.04  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor  73.85  per  cent  of  total  manufacturing  cost. 

Ladies'  vest  No.  537.— The  stock  entering  into  the  manufacture  of 

a  dozen  of  these  garments  is  composed  of  combination  of  3}  pounds 

of  2/25  s  white  woolen  yam  and  2/20's  worsted  yarn,  costing  $2.64, 

and  a  combmation  of  one-fourth  pound  of  2/20's  cotton  and  2/30's 

worsted  yam  costing  16  cents,  or  $2.80,  less  1  pound  of  waste  at  8 

cents  per  pound,  making  total  yarn  value  $2.72. 

Trimmings  consist  of  buttons,  linings,  thread,  and  tape,  costing 
52  cents.  ^ 

The  labor  cost  per  dozen  garments  is  as  follows:  Winding  65 
cents;  cuttmg,  24  cents;  sewing,  20  cents;  mending,  58  cents;  finish- 
mg,  22  cents;  making  a  total  labor  cost  $1,305. 

Overhead    charges,    including    department    materials,    84    cents. 

Ihere  is  an  additional  charge  for  boxes,  bands,  labels,  and  packing 
to  the  amount  of  80  cents,  which  is  included  in  the  selling  expense 

Ihe  finished  garment  weighs  4f  ounces,  and  is  man^actured  to 
retail  at  $1.25  per  garment.  The  manufacturer  receives  $7  per 
dozen  garments,  less  7  per  cent,  or  $6.51.  The  jobber  receives  $9 
per  dozen. 

Net  stock  and  trimmings «q  9^ 

Conversion:  ♦o.  ^ 

Labor ^j^  g^e 

Department  materials  and  general  expense.*.*  '.y.///.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.,',      .84 

Total  manufacturing  cost 7]^  n  145 

Net  total  mill  cost g  ggg 

Net  stock,  60.17  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor,  24.23  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor,  60.84  per  cent  of  total  manufacturing  cost. 

ladies'  skibt. 

Ladies'  skiH  No.  538.— The  stock  entering  into  the  manufacture 
of  a  dozen  of  these  garments  is  composed  of  8  pounds  of  2/30's 
colored  worsted  yarn  and  one-half  pound  of  2/15's  colored  worsted 
yarn,  valued  at  $6,775. 

Trimmings  consist  of  braid  and  fastener,  costing  20  cents. 

The  labor  cost  per  dozen  garments  is  as  follows:  Winding  18 
cents,;  knitting,  50  cents;  cuttmg,  28  cents;  mending,  20  cents; 
finishing,  $0,075;  total  labor  cost,  $2,235. 

Overhead  charges,  including  department  materials,  $1,385. 


932 


BBPOBT  OP  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDUIiB  K. 


There  is  an  additional  char^  for  boxes,  bands,  labels,  and  packing 
to  the  amount  of  28  cents,  which  is  included  in  the  selling  expense. 

The  finished  garment  weiglis  Hi  ounces,  and  is  manufactured  to 
retail  at  $2  per  garment.  The  manufacturer  receives  $12.50  per 
dozen  garments,  less  7  per  cent,  or  $11,625.  The  jobber  receives 
$18  per  dozen. 

Net  stock  and  trimminga $6.  975 

Conversion: 

Labor $1-  235 

Department  materials  and  general  expense 1.  385 

Total  manufacturing  cost 2. 62 

Net  total  mill  cost 9. 596 

Net  stock,  72.69  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor,  12.87  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor,  47.14  per  cent  of  total  manufacturing  cost. 

Ladies'  sUrt  No.  S39. — ^The  stock  entering  into  the  manufacture  of 
a  dozen  of  t^ese  garments  is  composed  of  8  pounds  of  2/24's  colored 
worsted  yam  and  one-eighth  pound  of  2/30^8  printed  worsted  yarn, 
costing  $7.21  less  7  cents  for  waste,  or  $7.14. 

Trimmings  consist  of  braid  and  fastener,  costing20  cents. 

The  labor  cost  per  dozen  garments  is  as  follows:  Winding,  18  cents; 
knitting,  35  cents;  cutting,  9  cents;  sewing,  27  cents;  mending,  26 
cents;  finishing,  21  cents;  total  labor  cost,  $1.16. 

Overhead  charges,  including  department  materials,  $1.82. 

There  is  an  additional  charge  for  boxes,  bands,  labels,  and  packing 
to  the  amount  of  45  cents,  which  is  included  in  the  selling  expense. 

The  finished  garment  weighs  QJ  ounces  and  is  manufactured  to 
retail  at  $2.50  per  garment.  The  manufacturer  receives  $12.58  net 
per  dozen  and  tne  jobber  $13.95  per  dozen. 

Net  stock  and  trimmings $7.  26 

Conversion: 

Labor |1. 16 

Department  materials  and  general  expense 1.  82 

Total  manufacturing  cost 2,  98 

Net  total  mill  cost 10.23 

Net  stock,  70.87  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor,  11.34  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor,  38.93  per  cent  of  total  manufacturing  cost. 

Misses'  puH^over  sweater  No.  BJfi. — Stock  entering  into  the  manu- 
facture of  a  dozen  of  these  garments  is  composed  of  lOi  pounds  of 
2/30's  worsted  yarn,  valued  at  $8.20  less  \\  pounds  of  waste,  valued 
at  $0,135,  makuig  total  value  $8,065. 

The  labor  cost  per  dozen  garments  is  as  follows:  Winding,  43  cents* 
knitting,  57  cents;  cutting,  35  cents;  sewing,  75  cents,  mending  and 
finishing,  35  cents;  total,  $2.45. 

Overhead  charges,  including  department  materials.  $1,88. 

There  is  an  additional  charge  for  boxes,  bands,  labels,  and  packing 
to  the  amount  of  45  cents,  which  is  included  in  the  selling  expense. 

The  finished  garment  weighs  llf  ounces  and  is  manufactured  to 
retail  at  $2.50  per  garment.  The  manufacturer  receives  $16.50  per 
dozen  garments,  less  7  per  cent,  or  $15.35,  and  the  jobber  $22.50 
per  dozen. 


1 


lii'''''""iiiiiiiiii 


BBPOBT  OP  TABIFF  BOAED  ON  SCHEDULE  K.         933 

Net  stock  and  trimmings •«  nuc 

Conversion:  f8.065 

Labor j2  45 

Department  materials  and  general  expense '.'.WW     l'  88 

Total  manufacturing  cost '  "    ^  30 

Net  total  mill  cost 12  395 

Net  stock  is  65.07  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor  is  19.77  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor  is  66.58  per  cent  of  total  manufacturing  cost. 

Misses' sweater  coat  No.  S4I. —The  stock  entering  into  the  manufac- 
ture of  a  dozen  of  these  garments  is  composed  of  8  pounds  of  2/20*s 
colored  woolen  yarn  valued  at  $4.80. 

Trinimings  consist  of  buttons,  linings,  and  thread,  costing  $0,615 

llie  labor  cost  per  dozen  garments  is  as  follows;  Winding,  30  cents: 
Jmittmg,  82  cents;  cuttmg,  10  cents;  sewing,  66  cents;  mending,  12 
cents;  fimslung,  34  cents;  a  total  of  $2.34.  ^' 

Overhead  charges,  including  department  materials,  $0,585. 

1  here  is  an  additional  charge  for  boxes,  bands,  labels,  and  packing 
to  the  amount  of  30  cents,  which  is  included  in  the  selling  expense:^ 

Ihe  hmshed  garment  weighs  10  ounces  and  is  manufactured  to 
retail  at  $1.80  per  garment.  The  manufacturer  receives  $9.50  per 
dozen  garments  less  2  per  cent,  or  $9.31,  and  the  jobber  $12  per  dozen 
less  2  per  cent,  or  $11.76. 

Net  stock  and  trimmings ^k  aik 

Conversion:  ♦o.4iO 

Labor ^  g^ 

Department  materials  and  general  expenses. .................'.,',      [585 

Total  manufacturing  cost "    «  905 

Net  total  mill  cost ft~a4~ 

Net  stock,  64.93  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor,  28.06  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor,  80  per  cent  of  total  manufacturing  cost. 

Misses'  sweater  coat  No.  S4^.— The  stock  entering  into  the  manufac- 
ture of  a  dozen  of  these  garments  is  composed  of  11  pounds  of 
2/16  s  colored  worsted  yarn  valued  at  $10.56,  and  the  tnmmings. 
consisting  of  limn^,  buttons,  and  thread,  at  83  cents.  ThTwaJte 
made  m  the  manufacture  of  these  garments  amounts  to  3  pounds 
and  IS  sold  by  the  mill  for  $0,315,  making  the  net  value  of  stock  and 
trimmings  $11,075.  "v.ix  auu 

In  the  conversion  of  this  stock  the  processes  through  which  it 
passes  and  the  costs  of  same  are  as  follows:  Winding,  $0,156;  knit- 
labor  of  11 '423^  '^^^  ^^  ''^''^^'  ^"^^  ^^"^""^^  ^^-^^^^  '''*  ^  *^^^^  ^^^*  ^^^ 

The  department  materials  and  overhead  charges  amount  to  66 

The  net  total  cost  to  the  mill,  therefore,  of  a  dozen  of  these  gar- 
ments  is  $16.158.,  ° 

An  additional  charge  of  50  cents  is  made  for  boxes,  labels,  bands, 
and  packing,  but  this  has  been  deducted  from  the  manufacturing 
able  to^th  ^  f  ^        expense,  as  it  is  not  properly  charg^ 

32080°— H.  Doc.  342.  62-2,  vol  2 ^21 


934 


RBPOBT  OF  TlMfF  BOABD  OK  SCHEBULE  K. 


The  single  garment  when  finished  weighs  IQi  ounces,  and  is  made 
to  sell  at  $2. 50.  The  mill  at  wliich  this  particular  garment  was  made 
sells  direct  to  the  retailer  and  receives  per  dozen  garments  $21  less 
12  per  cent,  or  $18.48. 

Net  stock  and  trimmings 111.  075 

Conversion: 

Labor $4,423 

Department  materials  and  general  expense : 66 

Total  manufacturing  coat 5. 083 

Net  total  mill  cost 16. 158 

Net  stock  is  68.54  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor  is  27.37  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor  is  87.02  per  cent  of  total  manufacturing  coat. 

Misses*  sweater  coats  No,  64S. — The  stock  used  in  the  manufacture 
of  a  dozen  of  these  garments  amounts  to  lOJ  pounds  of  2/25's  col- 
ored woolen  yam,  valued  at  $7.18,  and  the  tnmmings  at  58  cents. 
For  the  waste  made  in  the  manufacture  of  these  garments  the  mill 
receives  9  cents,  making  the  net  value  of  stock  and  trimmings  $7.67. 

In  the  conversion  of  this  stock,  the  cost  of  winding  and  spooUng 
yam  amounts  to  54  cents;  the  knitting,  $1.19;  cutting,  17  cents; 
sewing,  $1.60;  mending,  17  cents;  and  finishing,  8  cents;  a  total  cost 
for  labor  of  $3.75. 

The  department  materials  and  overhead  charges  amount  to  $1.55. 

These  items  bring  the  net  cost  of  a  dozen  of  these  garaients  to  $12.97. 

For  boxes,  labels,  bands,  and  packing  an  additional  charge  of  25 
cents  is  made,  but  tliis  has  been  omitted  for  the  reason  that  it  is  a 
part  of  the  selling  rather  than  the  manufacturing  expense. 

The  single  gamaent  when  finished  weighs  12f  ounces,  and  is  made 
to  sell  at  &om  $1.50  to  $1.75  per  garatient.  These  gamients  are  sold 
by  the  manufacturer  for  $13.50  per  dozen  net. 

Net  stock  and  trimmings $7. 67 

Conversion: 

Labor $3.  75 

Department  materials  and  general  expense 1.  55 

Total  manufacturing  coat. 5. 30 

Net  total  mill  cost 12.  97 

Net  stock  is  59.14  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor  is  28.91  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor  is  70.75  per  cent  of  total  manufacturing  cost. 

JUVENILE   SWEATER   COAT. 

Juvenile  sweater  coat  No.  544- — The  stock  entering  into  the  manu- 
facture of  a  dozen  of  these  garments  is  composed  of  10  pounds  of  2/21*8 
colored  woolen  yam,  costing  $5.50,  less  5  cents  for  waste;  total  value, 
$5.45. 

Trimmings  consist  of  buttons,  linings,  and  thread,  45  cents. 

The  labor  cost  per  dozen  garments  is  as  follows:  Winding,  $0,205; 
knitting,  65  cents;  cutting,  $0,125;  sewing,  $0,175;  mending,  $0,125; 
finisldng,  $0,425;  total  labor  cost,  $1,705. 

Overhead  charges,  including  department  materials,  64  cents. 


BEPOBT  OF  TASIFP  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K.        935 

There  is  an  additional  charge  for  boxes,  bands,  labels,  and  packing 
to  the  amount  of  24  cents,  which  is  included  in  the  selling  expense. 

The  finished  garment  weighs  11  ounces  and  is  manufactured  to 
retad  at  $2  per  garment.  The  manufacturer  receives  $12  per  dozen 
garments,  less  7  per  cent,  or  $11.16,  and  the  jobber  $15  per  dozen. 

Net  stock  and  trimmings $5  90 

Conversion: 

Labor m  ^qj 

Department  materials  and  general  expense. ..'/////.'../.. ....'.'..'.      ] 64 

Total  manufacturing  cost 2.  345 

Net  total  mill  cost g  245 

Net  stock,  71.56  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor,  20.68  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor,  72.71  per  cent  of  total  manufacturing  cost. 

Juvenile  sweater  coat  No,  S45,— The  stock  entering  into  the  manu- 
facture of  a  dozen  of  these  garments  is  composed  of  13i  pounds  of  a 
combination  of  cotton  and  woolen  yarn,  wool  count  2/2 1's,  cotton 
count  2/1 4's,  valued  at  $5,265,  plus  IJ  pounds  2/21 's  woolen  yam 
costing  $0,825,  total  value  $6.09. 

Trimmings  consist  of  buttons,  linings,  and  thread,  costing  50  cents. 

The  labor  cost  per  dozen  garments  is  as  follows:  Winding,  $0,305; 
knittmg,65  cents;  cutting,  $0,125;  sewing,  $0,225;  mending,  $0,125: 
finishing,  $0,525;  a  total  labor  cost  of  $1,955. 

Overhead  charges,  including  department  materials,  68  cents. 

There  is  an  additional  charge  for  boxes,  bands,  labels,  and  packing 
to  the  amount  of  34  cents,  which  is  included  in  the  selling  expense 

The  finished  garment  weighs  ISJ  ounces  and  is  manufactured  to 
retail  at  $2  per  garment.  The  manufacturer  receives  $13.50  per 
dozen  garments  less  7  per  cent,  or  $12,555.  The  jobber  receives  $18 
per  dozen. 

Net  stock  and  trimmings Ag  ^og 

Conversion:  *^* 

Labor |1.  955 

Department  materials  and  general  expense '...'.'.'.'...     6.  80 

Total  manufacturing  cost 2  635 

Net  total  mill  cost 9~^ 

Net  stock,  71.11  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost.  • 

Labor,  21.44  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor,  74.19  per  cent  of  total  manufacturing  cost. 

Juvenile  sweater  coat  No,  546,— The  stock  entering  into  the  manu- 
facture of  a  dozen  of  these  garments  is  composed  of  4f  pounds  of  wor- 
sted and  cotton  yarn,  in  the  proportion  of  77  per  cent  worsted  to  23 
per  cent  cotton,  and  is  valued  at  $3.96,  and  the  trimmings,  consisting 
of  hmng,  buttons,  thread,  and  other  trimmings,  at  64  cents.  Th^ 
waste  made  in  the  manufacture  of  these  garments  amounts  to  only  4 
ouncefj  and  is  sold  by  the  mill  for  $0,005,  making  the  net  value  of  the 
stock  and  trimmings  $4,595. 

In  converting  this  stock  into  the  finished  garment  the  cost  of 
winding  the  yarn  amounts  to  9  cents,  the  knitting  $0,185,  cutting  8 
cents,  sewing  64  cents,  and  mending  and  finishing  12  cents,  a  total  of 
$1 .115* 


936  BEPOBT  OF  TABIFP  BOABD  ON   SCHEBUIiE  K. 

The  department  materials,  such  as  paraffin  and  needles,  and  the 
overhead  charges  amount  to  $0,615. 

The  net  cost  of  these  garments,  therefore,  to  the  mill  is  $6,325. 

An  additional  charge  of  14  cents  is  made  for  boxes,  bands,  labels, 
and  packing,  but  this  has  been  omitted  from  the  cost  of  these  gar- 
ments for  the  reason  that  the  same  should  be  included  in  the  selling 
rather  than  in  the  manufacturing  expense. 

A  single  garment  when  finished  weighs  6J  ounces  and  is  made  to 
sell  at  $1 .25,  the  manufacturer  receiving  $9  per  dozen  less  10  per  cent, 
or  $8.10,  and  the  jobber  $12  per  dozen  garments. 

Net  stock  and  trimmingB |4,  595 

Conversion: 

Labor $1. 115 

Department  materials  and  general  expense 615 

Total  manufacturing  cost 1.  73 

Net  total  mill  cost 6.  325 

Net  stock  is  72.65  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor  is  17.63  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor  is  64.45  per  cent  of  total  manufacturing  cost. 

Boys'  sweater  coat  No,  5^7.— To  manufacture  a  dozen  of  these 
garments  requires  9  pounds  of  2/25's  colored  woolen  yarn,  valued 
at  $6.30.  The  trimmings,  consisting  of  hnings,  buttons,  thread,  and 
hangers,  cost  52  cents.  In  the  manufacture  of  these  garments  three- 
fourths  of  a  pound  of  waste  is  made,  for  which  the  mill  receives 
$0,075,  making  the  net  value  of  stock  and  trimmings  $6,745. 

To  convert  tliis  stock  into  the  finished  garments  the  cost  for 
spooling  is  $0.53;  knitting,  $1.11;  cutting,  17  cents;  sewing,  $1.67: 
mending,  17  cents;  and  finishing,  7  cents;  or  a  total  labor  cost  ot 

Department  materials  and  overhead  charges  amount  to  $1.44. 

The  net  cost  to  the  mill  of  a  dozen  of  these  garments  is  $11,905. 

The  additional  charge  of  25  cents  for  boxes,  labels,  bands,  and  pack- 
ing has  been  deducted  from  the  manufacturing  and  included  in  the 
selling  expense,  as  the  same  is  not  properly  chargeable  to  the  former. 

A  smgle  finished  garment  weighs  11  ounces  and  is  manufactured 
to  sell  at  from  $1 .50  to  $1 .75.  The  manufacturer  receives  for  a  dozen 
of  these  garments  $13.50  net. 

Net  stock  and  trimmings »q  745 

Conversion: 

Labor 13  72 

Department  materials  and  general  expense 1. 44 

Total  manufacturing  cost 5  Ig 

Net  total  mill  cost jj  9Q5 

Net  stock  is  56.66  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor  is  31.25  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor  is  72.09  per  cent  of  total  manufacturing  cost. 

Boys'  sweater  coat  No.  54S.— The  stock  entering  into  a  dozen  of 
these  garments  is  composed  of  4J  pounds  of  2/30's  worsted  yarn  and 
3i  pounds  of  1/8's  and  1/10's  cotton  yam,  valued  at  $3.48,  and  trim- 
mings, such  as  buttons  and  thread,  at  30  cents,  making  the  total  net 
value  of  stock  and  trimmings  $3.78. 


iiEPOET  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE   K.  937 

The  labor  cost  in  converting  this  stock  into  the  finished  garment  is 
as  follows:  $0,105  for  winding  of  yarn,  12  cents  for  knitting,  10  cents 
for  cutting,  21  cents  for  sewing,  12  cents  for  mending,  and  43  cents 
for  finishing;  a  total  of  $1,085. 

The  department  materials  and  general  expense  amount  to  .845 
cents. 

This  brings  the  net  cost  of  a  dozen  of  these  garments  to  $5.71. 

The  mill  has  added  30  cents  as  the  cost  for  boxing,  labels,  bands, 
and  packing,  but  as  this  is  a  selling,  rather  than  manufacturing 
expense,  the  same  has  been  omitted. 

The  single  garment  when  finished  weighs  10  ounces  and  is  made 
to  sell  for  $1,  the  manufacturer  receiving  $8  per  dozen  garments,  less 
10  per  cent,  or  $7.80,  and  the  jobber  $9.50. 

Net  stock  and  trimmings $3.  78 

Conversion: 

Labor $1. 085 

Department  materials  and  general  expense 845 

Total  manufacturing  cost ! 1.  93 

Net  total  mill  cost 5.  71 

Net  stock  is  66.29  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 

Labor  is  19  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 

Labor  is  56.22  per  cent  of  total  manufacturing  cost. 

Child's  Buster  Brown  sweater  coat  No.  649. — The  stock  entering 
into  the  ;nanufacture  of  a  dozen  of  these  garments  is  composed  o! 
6  pounds  of  2/1 6's  colored  worsted  ysLm,  valued  at  $5.76,  and  the 
trimmings,  consisting  of  buttons,  Hnings,  and  thread,  at  66  cents, 
making  the  total  value  of  the  stock  and  trimmings  $6.42. 

In  converting  this  stock  into  the  finished  garments,  the  winding 
costs  $0,085;  knitting,  $1,587;  and  sewing,  $0,957;  or  a  total  cost 
for  labor  of  $2,629. 

The  department  materials  and  overhead  char2:es  amount  to 
$0,309. 

The  net  cost  of  a  dozen  of  these  garments  to  the  mill  is  $9,358. 

For  boxes,  labels,  bands,  and  packing  an  additional  charge  of 
31  cents  is  made,  but  this  item  has  been  omitted  for  the  reason  that  it 
is  chargeable  to  the  selling,  rather  than  to  the  manufacturing  expense. 

A  sinde  garment  finished  weighs  9i  ounces,  and  is  made  to  sell  at 
$1.50.  The  mill  making  this  particular  garment  sells  direct  to  the 
retailer  and  receives  $12  per  dozen,  less  12  per  cent,  or  $10.56. 

Net  stock  and  trimmings |6  42 

Conversion : 

Labor $2.  629 

Department  materials  and  general  expense 309 

Total  manufacturing  cost 2. 938 

Net  total  mill  cost 9  353 

Net  stock  is  68.60  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor  is  28.09  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor  is  89.48  per  cent  of  total  manufacturing  cost. 

Infant's  sweater  coat  No.  550.— The  stock  entering  into  the  manu- 
facture  of  a  dozen  of  these  garments  is  composed  of  3^  pounds  of 
2/8-1/2's  white  woolen  yarn,  valued  at  $3.38. 

Trimmings  consist  of  buttons,  thread,  and  linings,  costmg  34  cents. 


938 


REPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  8CHEI>ULE  K, 


The  labor  cost  per  dozen  garments  is  as  follows:  Winding,  S0.105; 
knitting,  75  cents;  sewing,  75  cents;  finishing,  28  cents;  makinir  a 
total  of  $1,885.  ^ 

Overhead  charges,  including  department  materials,  $3,071. 

There  is  an  additional  charge  for  boxes,  bands,  labels,  and  packing 
to  the  amount  of  $0,566,  which  is  included  in  the  selling  expense. 

The  finished  garment  weighs  4 f  ounces.  The  manufacturer  receives 
$13  per  dozen  garments  less  a  discount  of  39  cents,  or  $12.61. 


Net  stock  and  trimmingB. 
Con  version: 


$3.  718 


Jfbor .-;-■-- , $1,885 

Department  matenals  and  general  expense 3.071 


Total  manufacturing  coat 4^  95(j 


Net  total  mill  cost 8.  674 

Net  stock  42.86  per. cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor  21.73  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor  38.03  per  cent  of  total  manufacturing  coat. 

Ladies\  men^s,  and  misses'  mUtena. 
[Cost  per  dozen  pairs.] 


Weight  per  finished 

pair. 

1  ounce. 

jounce 

3  ounce 

.  1  ounce 

1| 
ounces. 

n 

ounces 

li 
ounces 

If 

ounces. 

2| 
ounces. 

4} 

ounces. 

Net  stocic  cost 

SO.  28 

$0.42 

SO.  52 

SO.  47 

SO.  54 

SI.  48 

SO.  646 

SO.  81 

SO.  82 
.75 
.094 

S2.04 

Conversion: 

Labor 

.537 
.846 

.536 

.871 

.355 
.577 

.86 
.238 

.694 
.084 

.801 
.184 

LIS 
.34 

.728 
.104 

Department  ma- 
terial and  gen- 
eral expenses.. 

.28 

Total    manu- 
facturing 
cost 

1.383 

1.407 

.932 

1.098 

.778 

.985 

1.49 

.830 

.844 

1.664 
.09 

1.90 

2.25 
.25 

.78 

Net  total  mill 
cost 

1.643 
.05 

1.827 
,05 

L452 
.05 

1.56R 

.06 

L90 

2.25 

.25 

1.318 

.09 

1.80 

2.25 

.25 

2.465 

.090 

3.50 

4.50 

.50 

2.136 
.078 
2.75 
3.50 
.50 

1.640 

.09 

L90 

2.25 

.25 

Boxes,  bands,  labels, 
and  pacldng 

Belling  price  to  Job- 
ber.  

2.79 
.10 

Selling  price,  jobber 
to  re  taller 

1.90 
.25 

1.90 
.25 

1.90 
.25 

3.50 

Retail  selling  price 
per  pair 

4.50 

.50 

Net  stock,  per  cent 
of  net  total  mill 
cost 

Per  ct. 
15.8 
32.7 

39  5 

Perct. 
23.0 
29.3 

29.9 

Perct 

35.8 
24.4 

38.1 

Perct. 
29.9 
54.9 

78.3 

Perct. 
41.0 
52.7 

89.2 

Perct. 
60.0 
32.5 

81.3 

Perct. 
30.2 
53.8 

77.2 

Perct. 
49.4 
44.3 

87.5 

Perct. 
49.3 
45.1 

88.9 

Perct. 

Labor,  per   cent  of 
net  total  mill  cost. 

Labor,  per  cent  of 
total  manufactur- 
ing cost 

73.1 

17.6 

65.3 

2  to  lO^^^r^  °*^®'"^*^  °°*®**'  *^®  manufacturer's  selling  price  is  subject  to  a  discount  for  cash  of  from 

In  the  preceding  table  a  number  of  ladies',  men's,  and  misses' 
mittens  are  shown.  These  are  typical  garments  ranging  in  weight 
from  one-half  to  4|  ounces,  and  are  presented  in  this  form,  not  for 
the  purpose  of  comparison,  but  as  a  matter  of  convenience.  It  will 
be  readily  understood  why  these  garments  are  nol  comparable 
when  It  IS  known  that  not  only  does  the  stock  entering  into  their 
manufacture  vary  as  to  quality,  but  there  is  also  a  wide  margin  of 


BEPOET  OF  TARIFF  BOAED  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


930 


difference  in  the  cost  of  labor.  This  variance  in  the  cost  of  labor  is 
due  more  largely  to  the  type  of  machine  on  which  these  garments 
are  made  than  to  anylhmg  else.  By  way  of  illustration,  the  charge 
for  knitting  on  a  circular  machine  is  considerably  below  the  cost 
of  this  same  process  on  the  Lamb  machine — the  price  on  the 
first-named  machine  ranging  from  10}  to  31}  cents,  while  on  the 
latter  machine  the  range  is  from  48  to  86  cents  per  dozen  pairs.  As 
regards  the  other  processes,  such  as  winding,  sewing,  mending, 
steaming  and  pressing,  finishing  and  examining,  the  cost  on  a 
dozen  pairs  of  one  weight  varies  very  little  from  that  on  a  dozen 
pairs  of  some  other  weight. 

The  stock  used  in  the  manufacture  of  these  several  garments  is 
composed  of  various  sizes  and  qualities  of  woolen,  worsted,  cotton, 
and  combination  yams,  varying  in  price  from  28  cents  to  $1.12  per 
pound. 

Another  item  materially  affecting  the  net  cost  of  these  garments 
to  the  mill  is  the  general  expense,  which  covers  salaries,  fuel,  light, 
insurance,  taxes,  etc.  In  some  instances  this  item  is  very  low,  while 
in  others  it  appears  extremely  high. 

The  above  table  shows  a  line  of  mittens  made  to  retail  at  25  cents 
and  50  cents  per  pair. 

Ladies*  gloves  from  1^  to  2  ounces, 
(Cost  per  dozen  pairs.] 


Weight  per  finished  pair. 

• 

ounces. 

li 
ounces. 

ounces. 

If 
ounces. 

If 
ounces. 

If 
ounces. 

IH 
ounces. 

2 

ounces. 

"Net  stock  cost 

fO  505 

SI.  05 

SLOO 

SO.  97 

8L179 

SI.  31 

SO.  80 

SL65 

Conversion: 

Labor 

.352 
.165 

L09 
.22 

.97 
.348 

L105 
.365 

L242 
.43 

L671 
.154 

.342 
.215 

Department  material  and  general 
expenses 

1.115 

4 

.435 

Total  manufacturing  cost 

.517 

L31 

L318 

L470 

L672 

1.825 

3.135 

.09 

3.75 

4.50 

.50 

.557 

L550 

Net  total  mill  cost 

L022 
.060 
L50 
L85 
.25 

2.36 

.10 

3.625 

4.50 

.50 

2.318 

.06 

3.50 

4.50 

.50 

2.440 

.06 

3.50 

4.50 

.50 

2.851 

.099 

3.50 

4.50 

.50 

1.357 

.06 

L90 

2.395 

.30 

Boxes,  labels,  bands,  and  packing 

Selling  price  to  jobber 

3.200 
.06 

Selling  price  jobber  to  retailer 

Retail  selling  price  per  pair 

4.50 
5.00 

.75 

Net  stockjpercentofnet  total  mill  cost. 
Labor,  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. . 
Labor,  per  cent  of  total  manufactur- 
ing cost 

Perd. 
49.4 
34.4 

68.2 

Perd. 
44.5 
46.2 

83.2 

Perct. 
43.1 

41.8 

73.  G 

Perct. 
39.8 
45.3 

75.2 

Perct. 
41.4 
43.5 

74.3 

Perct. 
4L8 
53.3 

9L6 

Perct. 
58.9 
25.2 

6L4 

Perct. 
5L6 
34.8 

71.9 

2  to  10  pe^^ent^^  otherwise  noted,  the  manufacturer's  selling  price  is  subject  to  a  discount  for  cash  of  from 

The  stock  entering  into  a  dozen  pau^  of  gloves  of  the  various 
weights  shown  in  the  above  table  is  composed,  in  some  instances  of 
pure  worsted  yarn,  while  m  others  both  worsted  and  cotton  yarns 
are  used.  The  cotton  yarns  used  cost  30  cents  and  32  cents  per 
I)()und,  while  the  worsted  yams  range  m  price  from  75  cents  to  $1.10 
per  pound. 

The  above  presentation  is  for  the  sake  of  convenience  and  not  for 
purposes  of  comparison,  as  some  of  the  garments  are  made  on  circular 
machines,  while  others  are  manufactured  on  a  Lamb  machine. 
Where  this  is  true  the  cost  of  knitting  on  a  Lamb  machine  is  very  much 


940 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEBUOI  K. 


higlier  than  on  the  circular  machine.  By  way  of  illustration,  tho 
cost  of  knitting  on  a  Lamb  machine  varies  from*  72  cents  to  75  cents, 
wMe  the  cost  of  knittbg  on  the  circular  machme  does  not  exceed 
10  cents  per  dozen  pairs  of  gloves.  Except  in  certain  instances 
where  much  additional  work  is  required  in  *' fingering''  the  gloves, 
the  cost  of  labor  in  tho  other  processes  varies  very  little  as  between 
the  garments  shown  in  the  above  table.  This  marked  difference  in 
the  cost  of  knitting  is  very  largely  due  to  the  fact  that  on  a  Lamb 
machme  the  capacity  is  about  two  dozen  pairs  per  day,  while  on  a 
circular  machme  the  capacity  will  reach  six  dozen  pairs  per  day 

The  pnncipal  processes  employed  in  the  manufacture  of  these 
gannents  are  wmdmg,  knitting,  cutting,  sewing,  mending,  shaping, 
and  iinishing.  r-    &i 

The  general  expense,  or  overhead  charges,  varies  accordmg  to  the 
size  of  the  mill  and  the  production  of  each  particular  line. 

The  coste  shown  in  the  above  table  are  on  ladies'  gloves  ranging 
m  weight  from  IJ^  to  2  ounces,  and  are  manufactured  to  sell  at  25 
cents,  30  cents,  50  cents,  and  75  cents,  the  popular  price  being  60 
cents  per  pair  of  gloves. 

men's  woolen  and  worsted  gloves. 

Tlie  stock  entering  into  the  manufacture  of  gloves,  shown  in  the 
accompanying  table,  is  composed  of  wooL  worsted,  and  cotton  yams, 
used  m  combinations,  varying  in  price  from  32  cents  for  cotton  to 
93  cents  for  worsted  yam  per  pound. 

^    The  processes  of  manufacture  are  exactly  the  same  as  those  used 
m  the  manufacture  of  ladies'  gloves. 

The  production  varies  according  to  the  kind  of  machines  upon 
which  the  gloves  are  made,  ranging  from  2  dozen  pairs  a  day  on  a 
Lamb  macliine  to  6  dozen  on  a  circular  machine. 

The  labor  cost  of  a  dozen  pairs  on  a  Lamb  machine  varies  from 
$1.16  to  $1.28,  while  the  labor  cost  on  a  circular  machine  is  89  cents 
per  dozen  pairs. 

Men*8  woolen  and  worsted  gloves. 


[Cost  per  dozen  pairs.) 


Net  stock  cost. 


Weight  per  finished  pair. 


2i 

ounces 


SI.  221 


Conversion: 

Labor 

I>epartment  materials  and  gemerai  ex- 
penses  


Total  manufacturing  cost. 


Net  total  mill  cost 

Boxes,  bands,  lal>eLs,  and  packing ..[ 

Selling  price  to  jobter 

Selling  price,  jobber  to  retailer '..]'.'. 

Retaifseiling  price  per  pair 


Net  stock,  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost... 

Labor,  percent  of  net  total  mill  cost 

Labor, per  cent  of  total  manufacturing  cost. . 


L283 
.435 


21 

ounces. 


fO.96 


21 
ounces. 


2i 
oimces. 


1.718 


•  Ira 

.15 


.  0" 


r  = 


2.939 

.097 

3.625 

4.50 

.50 


Perd. 

41.5 
43.6 
74.7 


1.55 

.Ot> 

1.90 

2.25 

.25 


Perct. 
61.9 
28.4 
74.6 


fl.32 


.80 
24 


1.13 


2.45 

.15 

3. 625 

4.  ,50 

.50 


Per  d. 

63.9 
36.3 

78.8 


$1,196 


21 
ounces. 


$1.60 


3tV 
ounces. 


11.74 


L163 
.455 


1.618 


1.16 


2.10 


2.814 
.005 
3.625 
4.. 50 
.50 


Pact. 
42.5 
41.3 
71.9 


3.70 
.05 

"4.56 
.50 


1.1075 
.47 


3* 
ounces. 


$1.54 


1.5775 


Perd. 
43.2 
31.4 
55.2 


3.3175 

.06 
5.00 
6.75 

.75 


1.238 
.164 


1.402 


Perd. 
52.4 
33.4 
70.2 


2.942 

.080 

3.75 

450 

.60 


Perd, 
62.3 
42.1 

88.  a 


8  to*iri;^^r  **"*®^**'  ^^^'  ^^  ™«i"^tu«r'a  m^xg  piioe  is  subject  to  a  diaoount  lor  cash  of  from 


I 


EEPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOAED  ON  SCHEDULE   K.  941 

ladies'  hose WOOLEN,   WORSTED,  CASHMERE,  AND  MERINO. 

The  stock  used  in  the  garments  shown  in  the  accompan3dng  table 
IS  composed  of  wool,  worsted,  cotton,  merino,  and  silk  yam.  The 
yarn  vanes  in  price  from  16  cents  to  $1.22  per  pound.  The  styles 
shown  are  both  seamless  and  full  fashioned,  and^  the  price  per  pair 
varies  from  25  cents  to  50  cents  retail.  " 

The  processes  of  manufacture  include  winding,  knitting,  looping, 
seaming,  sewing,  mending,  cutting,  inspecting,  turning,  dyeing, 
boarding,  mating,  finishing,  and  folding.  -*,./&, 

The  labor  cost  of  a  pair  of  hose  manufactured  on  a  circular  machine 
*^  sell  for  25  cents  varies  from  $0,233  to  $0,382  per  dozen  pairs, 
and  the  stock  entering  into  their  manufacture  varies  from  39  cents  to 
90  cents.  The  labor  cost  of  a  pair  of  hose  manufactured  to  sell  for 
50  cents  (full  fashioned)  varies  from  70  cents  to  99  cents  per  dozen 
pairs,  and  the  stock  entering  into  the  manufacture  varies  from  $1.44 
to  $2.94  per  dozen  pairs. 

Ladies^  hose. 
[Cost  per  dozen  pairs.] 


Net  stock  cost 


Weight  per  finished  pair. 


ounces. 


$0,905 


Conversion: 

Labor 

Department  material  and  general  expenses!! ! 


Total  manuliacturing  cost. 


Net  total  mill  cost 

Boxes,  bands,  labels,  and  packing 

Selling  price  to  jobber 

Selling  price  jobber  to  retailer 

Retailselling  price  per  pair 


2 
ounces. 


$0,975 


.362 

.18 


.542 

1.447 
.065 
1.85 


Net  stock,  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost... 

Labor,  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost 

Labor,  per  cent  of  total  manufacturing  cost. 


.25 


2i 
ounces. 


2| 
ounces. 


$0.87 


.505 
.18 


.685 

1.060 

.065 

2.375 


.35 


.45 

.18 


.63 

LSO 
.065 
L95 


2| 
ounces. 


$0.76 


.422 
.20 


.25 


Perd. 
62.5 
25.0 
66.8 


Perd. 

58.7 
30.4 
73.7 


Perd. 
58.0 
30.0 
7L5 


.622 

1.^ 
.05 
1.75 


.25 


$0.71 


.355 
.43 


3 
oimces. 


.785 

1.496 
.035 
1.75 


.25 


Perd. 
55.0 
30.5 
67.7 


Perd. 

47.5 
23.7 
45.2 


$0.5S 


.295 
.125 


.420 

LOGO 
.037 
L65 


.25 


Perd. 
58.0 
29.5 
70.2 


Weight  per  finished  pair. 


Net  stock  cost. 


Conversion: 

Labor 

Department  material  and  general  e^^enses! 

Total  manufacturing  cost 

Net  total  mill  cost 

Boxes,  bands,  labels,  and  packing. . . 

Selling  price  to  jobber 

Selling  price  jobber  to  retailer " .' " 

Retailselling  price  per  pair 


3 
ounces. 


3 
ounces, 


$0.90 


.382 
.46 


Net  stock,  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost . . , 

Labor,  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost 

Labor,  per  cent  of  total  manufacturing  cost 


.842 

L742 
.037 
11.80 
2.10 
.25 


Perd. 
51.6 
21.9 
45.4 


$0.39 


.233 
.35 


.583 


1.60 

2.10 

.25 


Perd. 
40.1 
23.9 
40.0 


3 
ounces. 


$L11 


.475 
.275 


.750 

1.86 
.065 
2.25 


3 

ounces. 


$1.22 


.422 
.20 


3i  3A 

oimces.  ounces. 


$1.78 


.35 


Perd. 
59.7 
25.5 
63.3 


.622 

L842 
.05 
2.25 


.35 


Perd. 
66.2 
22.9 
67.8 


,615 
18 


.795 


2.575 

.065 

3.375 


$0.49 


.319 
.35 


.669 


1.159 


.50 


Perd. 
69.1 
23.9 
77.4 


L85 

2.25 

.25 


Perd. 
42.3 
27.5 

47.7 


»Net. 


942 


EEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOAED   ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


Ladies'  hose-€ontinued. 


. 

Weight  per 

finished 

pair. 

SI 

dcmces. 

4 

oimces. 

Full  fashion. 

21 
ounces. 

3 
ounces. 

ounces. 

31 
ounces. 

Net  stock  cost..... 

10.73 

$1.63 

11.44 

11.377 

tl.70 

$2.94 

Conversion: 

Labor 

.30 

.135 

.582 
.365 

.707 
.352 

.87 
.40 

.40 

.99 

Department  material  and  general  expenses 

.40 

Total  manufacturing  cost 

.435 

.947 

1.059 

1.27 

1.39 

1.39 

Net  total  mill  cost 

1.165 
.036 
1.85 

2.577 

.07 

3.50 

2.499 
"3."  76*' 

2.647 
.06 
3.15 

3.09 

.06 

4.00 

4.33 

Boxes,  bands,  labels,  and  Dacking 

.06 

Selling  price  to  jobber 

6.00 

Sellinic  Drice  jobber  to  retailer 

Retai  sellintr  nrice  per  nair 

.25 

.50 

.50 

.50 

Net  stock  ner  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost 

Per  ct. 
62.7 
25.7 
66.0 

Per  ct. 
63.2 
22.6 
61.5 

Perct. 
67.7 
28.3 
66.8 

Per  ct. 
62.1 
32.9 
68.6 

Perct. 
55.0 
32.0 
71.2 

Perct. 
67,9 

liabor  ner  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost 

22.9 

I>abor  per  cent  of  total  manufacturing  cost 

71.2 

Note.— Unless  otherwise  noted  the  manufacturer's  selling  price  is  subject  to  a  discount  for  cash  of  from 
to  10  per  cent. 

men's  half  hose. 

The  stock  entering  into  the  manufacture  of  the  garments  shown  in 
the  accompanying  table  is  composed  of  wool,  worsted,  cotton,  and 
merino  yam. 

The  price  of  the  yarn  varies  from  16  cents  to  $1.18  per  pound  and 
is  used  in  combinations. 

The  processes  of  manufacture  are  similar  to  those  in  the  manufac- 
ture of  ladies'  hose. 

The  labor  cost  of  a  dozen  pairs  of  seamless  hose  manufactured  to 

retail  at  25  cents  a  pair  varies  from  27  cents  to  $0,442,  and  the  stock 

entering  into  their  manufacture  varies  from  57  cents  to  86  cents. 

The  net  manufacturing  cost  varies  from  $1,015  to  $1,555  per  dozen 

pairs. 

Men*  8  halj  hose. 


Weight  per  pair  finished  garments 

• 

11 
ounces. 

ounces. 

1| 
ounces. 

11 
ounces. 

m 

ounces. 

ounces. 

n. 

ounces. 

21 
ounces. 

Net  stock  cost 

$0.86 

$0.86 

$0,775 

$0,785 

$0.75 

$0.67 

$0.44 

$0.60 

Conversion: 

Labor 

.442 

.20 

.38 
.18 

.365 
.18 

.277 
.137 

.365 

.265 

.312 
.276 

.30 
.30 

.30 

Department  material  and  gen- 
eral expenses 

.30 

Total  manufacturing  cost 

.642 

.56 

.545 

.414 

.6.30 

.587 

.60 

.60 

Net  total  mill  cost  per  dozen 
pairs 

1.502 
.06 
U.75 

L42 
.065 
L80 

1.320 
.065 
1.75 

1.199 
.052 
1.70 

1.380 

.06 

1.75 

1.257 
"i.75"" 

L04 

.03 
1.95 
1.10 

.15 

1.20 

Boxes,  labels,  bands,  and  packing — 
SeUincf  nrice  to  jobber 

.03 
1.60 

Selline:  Drice.  iobber  to  retailer 

2.00 

Retai  sellinp  price  per  pftir. .. 

.25 

.25 

.25 

.25 

.25 

.25 

.25 

Net  stock,  per  cent  of  net  total  mill 
cost 

Perct. 
57.3 
29.4 

68.8 

Perct, 

60.6 
26.8 

67.9 

Perct. 
68.7 
27.6 

67.0 

Per  ct. 
65.5 
23.1 

66.9 

Perct. 
64.3 
26.4 

67.9 

Per  ct. 
53.3 
24.8 

53.2 

Per  ct. 
12.3 
28.8 

60.0 

Perct. 
50.0 

Labor,  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost. 
Labor,  per  cent  of  total  manufacture 

Ine  ccKst 

25.0 
50.0 

EEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHE-^TJLE  K. 


Men's  half  hose — Continued. 


943 


Weight  per  pair  finished  garments 

• 

2J 
ounces. 

23 
ounces. 

2i 
ounces. 

3 
ounces. 

3 
ounces. 

4 

ounces. 

Full  fashion. 

1| 
ounces. 

IS 
ounces. 

Net  stock  cost 

$0.79 

$1.60 

$0,585 

$0.84 

$0.57 

$2.40 

$1.18 

$0  985 

Conversion: 

Labor 

.27 
.307 

.32 
.66 

.44 
.275- 

.382 
.20 

.28 
.125 

.31 
.92 

.665 
.34 

755 

Department  material  and  gen- 
eral expenses 

40 

Total  manufacturing  cost 

.577 

.98 

.715 

.582 

.405 

1.23 

LOOS 

L155 

Net  total  mill  cost  per  dozen 
pairs 

1.367 

2.58 
.06 

"*4.'25' 
.50 

1.300 
.075 
1.75 

1.422 
.05 
11.75 

.975 
.04 
L65 

3.63 
.06 

"'iso' 

.50 

2.185 
"3.' 37" 

2  140 

Boxes,  labels,  bands,  and  packhig 

.06 

SelUng  price  to  jobber T T 

1.85 

2  50 

Selling  price,  jobber  to  retailer 

RetalTselling  price  per  pair 

.25 

.25 

.25 

.25 

.50 

'*  * 

Net  stock,  per  cent  of  net  total  mill 

cost 

Perct. 

57.8 
19.8 

46.8 

Perct. 
62.0 
12.4 

32.6 

Perct. 
45.0 
33.8 

61.5 

Perct. 
59.1 
26.9 

65.6 

Perct. 
58.5 
28.7 

69.1 

Perct. 

66.1 

8.6 

25.2 

Perct. 

54.0 
30.4 

66.2 

Perct. 
46  0 

Labor,  i>er  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost . 
Labor,  per  cent  of  total  manufacturing 

cost 

35.3 
65.4 

I  Net. 

Note.— Unless  otherwise  noted,  the  manufacturer's  seUing  price  is  subject  to  a  discount  for  cash  of  from 
2  to  10  per  cent. 

Lumbermen's  socks. 
[Cost  per  dozen  pairs.) 


Weight  of  finished  garment. 

' 

4  ounces. 

5§  ounces. 

6i  oimces. 

9}  ounces. 

11  ounces. 

14  ounces. 

16  ounces. 

Net  stock  cost 

$1.40 

$2.45 

$2.10 

$L77 

$4.28 

$2.76 

$3.12 

Conversioa' 

Labor 

.29 
.17 

.59 
1.115 

.47 
.27 

.75 
1.31 

.75 
1.31 

.75 
1.31 

.75 

1.31 

Department  material  and 
general  expenses 

Total  manufacturing  cost. 

.46 

1.705 

.74 

2.06 

2.06 

2.06 

2.06 

Net  total  mill  cost 

Boxes,  labels,  bands,  and  pack- 
ing  

1.86 

.06 
12.25 

4.155 
.03 

2.84 

.10 
3.G5 
4.50 

.50 

3.83 

.065 
14.00 
4.75 
.50 

6.34 

.06 

17.50 

9.00 

1.00 

4.82 

.065 
15.00 
6.00 
.75 

5.18 

.06 
6.00 
7.50 

.85 

Selline  price  to  jobber 

Selling  price,  jobber  to  retailer. . 

4.00 
.50 

RetalTselling  price  per  garment. 

.25 

Net  stock,  per  cent  of  net  total 
mill  cost 

PercefU. 
24.7 

15.4 

63.0 

PercefU. 
59.0 

14.2 

34.6 

Per  cent. 
73.9 

16.5 

63.5 

Percent. 
46.2 

19.6 

36.4 

Percent. 
67.5 

11.8 

36.4 

Percent. 
57.3 

15.6 

36.4 

Percent. 
60.2 

14.5 

36.4 

Labor,  per  cent  of  net  totAl  mill 
cost 

Labor,  per  cent  of  total  manu- 
facturinE  cost 

iNet. 

Note.— Unless  otherwise  noted,  the  manufacturer's  selling  price  Is  subject  to  a  discount  of  from  2  to  10 
per  cent. 


944 


BEPOBT  OP  TABIFF  BOABD  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


lumbermen's  socks. 


The  stock  entering  into  the  manufacture  of  the  class  of  goods  shown 
in  the  above  table  is  composed  of  noils,  shoddy,  cotton,  and  worsted, 
usually  in  combinations,  prices  ranging  from  22  to  40  cents  per  pound. 

The  labor  cost,  which  includes  knitting,  looping,  fulling,  shaping, 
and  finishing,  is  reduced  to  a  minimum,  as  the  processes  of  manufacture 
are  simplified  by  the  use  of  special  macninery.  The  labor  cost  for  socks 
ranging  from  9  to  16  ounces  per  dozen  pairs  is,  on  the  average,  75  cents. 

Ladies^  scarfs  and  shawh. 
[Cost  per  dozen.] 


Weight  per  finished  garment. 

4i  ounces. 

5}  ounces. 

6  ounces. 

6 J  oimces. 

9i  ounces. 

9J  oimces. 

Net  stock  cost 

12.085 

13.15 

$4.85 

$3.62 

$6.51 

$5,775 

Conversion : 

Labor 

.26 
.26 

.475 
.57 

.745 

.84 

.725 
.68 

1.20 
2.07 

1.79 

Department  material  and  general  ex- 
penses  

1  3^5 

Total  manufacturing  cost.. 

.52 

1.045 

1.585 

1.405 

3.27 

3.135 

Net  total  mill  cost 

2-  ms 

.10 
3.50 

4.m 

.50 

4.195 
.20 
5.50 
7.50 
1.00 

6.435 

.20 

7.50 

10.50 

1.50 

5.025 
.20 
6.50 
8.50 
1.00 

9.78 

.30 

11.50 

15.00 

1.75 

8  910 

Boxes,  lal>els,  bands,  and  packing 

.25 

Selling  price  to  jobber 

11  00 

Selling  price,  jobl)er  to  retailer 

15  00 

Retail  selling  price  per  garment 

2.00 

Net  stock,  per  cent  of  net  total  rilll  cost . . 

Labor,  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost 

Laboi,  per  cent  of  total  manufacturing  cost . 

Per  cent. 
80.0 
10.0 
50.0 

Percent. 
75.1 
11.3 
45.5 

Percent. 
75.4 
11.6 
47.0 

Percent. 
72.0 
14.4 
51.6 

Per  cent. 

66.6 
12.3 
36.7 

Percent, 
64.8 
20.1 
57.1 

Note.— Unless  otherwise  noted,  the  manufacturer's  selling  price  Is  subject  to  a  discount  for  cash  of  from  2 
to  10  per  cent. 

ladies'  scarfs  and  shawls. 

The  above  table  presents  plain  and  honeycomb  shawls  varying  in 
weight  from  4f  ounces  to  9J  ounces,  with  prices  ranging  from  50 
cents  to  $2  per  garment,  retail. 

The  stock  entering  into  the  manufacture  of  these  garments  costs 
on  the  average  about  70  cents  per  pound  and  is  composed  of  worsted 
yarn. 

The  labor  processes  include  winding,  drawing  in,  warping,  knitting, 
cutting,  sewing,  mending,  and  finishing.  These  garments  are  manu- 
factured on  the  Raschelie  machine,  an  imported  machine  known  to 
the  trade  as  a  flat  machine  to  distinguish  it  from  circular  machines. 


BEPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


945 


Ladies'  hats,  caps,  hoods,  etc. 
[Cost  i)er  dozen.] 


• 

4 
ounces. 

1 

Weight  per  finished  garment 

• 

4i 
ounces. 

4i 
ounces. 

5§ 
ounces. 

6 
oimces. 

7i 
ounces. 

8 
ounces. 

81 
ounces. 

8J 
ounces. 

Net  stock  cost 

$3.05 

$3.29 

$3.37 

$3,825 

$8.58 

$4.08 

$5.52 

$6.47 

$5.95 

Conversion: 

Labor 

.81 

.67 

1.83 

.85 

L60 

.77 

L35 
.81 

1.355 

.195 

L355 

.185 

L52 
2.06 

2.60 
1.45 

3.10 

Dep  a  rt  m  e  n  t, 
material,  and 
general    e  x  - 
penses 

1.44 

TotAl  manu- 
fact  u  r  i  n  g 
cost 

L48 

2.68 

2.37 

2.16 

1.550 

1.540 

3.58 

4.05 

4.54 

Net  total  mill 

cost 

Boxes,  labels, 
bands,  and  pack- 
ing  

Selling  price  to  job- 
ber   

4.53 

.60 
7.00 
9.00 
1.25 

5.97 

.60 

9.00 

12.00 

1.50 

5.74 

.20 

7.50 

10.50 

1.50 

5.985 

.20 

9.00 

12.00 

L50 

10.130 
.82 

5.620 
.82 

9.10 
.82 

10.62 

.60 

15.00 

2L00 

3.00 

10.49 

.60 

15.00 

Selling  price  jobber 
to  retailer 

18.00 
3.00 

12.00 
2.00 

18.00 
3.00 

21.00 

Retail  selling  price 
per  gaiment 

3.00 

Net  stock,  per  cent 
of  net  total  mill 
cost 

Per  cent. 
67.3 

17.9 
54.7 

Percent. 
55.1 

30.7 
68.3 

Percent. 

58.7 

27.9 

67.5 

Percent. 
63.9 

22.0 
62.5 

Percent. 

84.7 

13.4 
87.4 

Percent. 
72.6 

24.1 

88.0 

Percent. 

60.7 

16.7 
42.5 

Percent. 
6L5 

24.7 

64.2 

Percent. 
56.7 

Labor,  per  cent  of 
net  total  mill  cost. 

Labor,  per  cent  of 
total  manufactur- 
ing cost 

29.6 
68.3 

Note.— Unless  otherwise  noted  the  manufacturers'  selling  price  is  subject  to  a  discount  for  cash  of  from 
2  to  10  per  cent. 

ladies'  HATS,  CAPS,  HOODS,  ETC. 

The  preceding  table  purposes  to  show  the  cost  of  making  hats, 
caps,  hoods,  etc. 

The  stock  used  in  this  class  of  goods  is  roving  rather  than  spun 
yarn  and  is  usually  of  a  superior  quality,  costing  in  the  neighborhood 
of  90  cents  per  pound. 

The  labor,  which  is  crocheting,  is  usually  "let  out"  to  institutions 
and  done  at  piecework  prices,  ranging  from  $1.25  to  $3  per  dozen 
garments,  depending  upon  the  style  and  amount  of  work  required  in 
each  garment. 

The  manufacturers  consider  these  garments  novelties  rather  than 
staple  articles.  The  stabihty  comes  as  the  taste  is  established  for 
this  class  of  goods. 


946 


BEPOET  OF  TABIFF  BOAED  ON   SCHEDULE  K, 


Toqitea. 
(Cost  per  doienj 


Net  cost  stock 

Conversion: 

Lalx)r 

Department  material  and  general  expense 

Total  manulacturing  cost 

Net  total  mill  cost 

Boxes,  labels,  bands,  and  packing 

Selling  price,  to  jobber 

Selling  price,  jobber  to  retailer 

RetailseiliDg  price  per  garment 

Net  stock,  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost 

Labor,  per  cent  of  net  total  mill  cost 

Labor,  per  cent  of  total  manufacturing  cost . . . 


Weight  per  finished  garment. 


n 

ounces. 


lass 


ounces. 


.27 

■Ml 


.53 


1.41 

.14 

U.63 

1.86 
.26 


Percent. 

62.4 
19.1 
50.9 


2 
ounces. 


SI.  245        11.75 


.515 
.83S 


L353 


2.59S 
.287 


.50 


Percent. 
47.9 
19.  S 
38.1 


.683 


.876 


2.626 

.12 

a25 

4.25 

.50 


Percent. 

66.5 
11.3 
33.8 


2| 
ounces. 


$1.60 


3f 
ounces. 


$1,075 


.33 
.65 


.88 


2.48 

.12 

3.25 

425 

.50 


.29 
28 


.57 


2.545 

.27 

3.50 

4.50 

.50 


PerceiU. 
64.5 
13.3 
37.5 


Percent. 

11.4 
50.9 


tNet 

Note.— Unless  otherwise  noted  the  manu&cturers'  selUng  price  is  subject  to  a  discount  for  cash  of  from 
2  to  10  per  cent. 

The  stock  used  in  the  manufacture  of  the  garments  shown  in  the 
above  table  is,  with  the  exception  of  that  weighing  If  ounces  in 
which  woolen  yam  is  used,  composed  of  worsted  jam  ranging  in  price 
from  76  cents  to  $1  per  pound. 

Disregarding  this  garaaent  weighing  If  ounces,  on  which  the  knit- 
ting cost  was  25  cents  and  the  sewing  20  cents,  the  cost  of  knitting 
the  several  garaaents  varies  from  $0,065  to  14  cents.  The  wind- 
ing of  the  yam  entering  into  these  garments,  while  costing  less  than 
the  knitting,  varies  almost  as  much  as  the  cost  of  knitting — the  range 
being  from  $0,022  to  $0.09.  As  between  the  other  processes  such  as 
mending  and  finishing  there  is  little  difference. 

The  general  expense  in  the  manufacture  of  these  garacients  varies 
considerably,  but  this  of  course  is  due  to  the  capacity  of  the  mill  and 
the  production  of  this  particular  line. 


PART  V.  REPORT  ON  WAGES  AND  EFFICIENCY  OF 

LABOR  AND  MACHINERY  IN  THE 

UNITED  STATES. 


947 


THE  RATES  OF  WAGES  AND  PRODUCTIVE  EFFICIENCY  OF 
LABOR  IN  THE  WOOLEN  AND  WORSTED  INDUSTRY  OF  THE, 
UNITED  STATES. 

The  agents  of  the  Tariff  Board  made  a  special  and  detailed  investi- 
gation of  labor  and  machine  efficiency  in  44  woolen  and  worsted 
mills  in  14  States  which  have,  when  all  of  their  machinery  is  in 
operation,  45,500  employees,  or  27.8  per  cent  of  the  employees 
reported  by  the  Bureau  of  the  Census  as  engaged  in  the  industry  in 
the  United  States  during  the  year  1909. 

The  object  of  this  particular  investigation  was  to  ascertain: 

(1)  The  rates  of  wages  and  earnings  of  the  employees  in  each  occu- 
pation; (2)  labor  cost  of  production  and  productive  efficiency;  (3) 
months  and  years  of  experience  in  each  occupation  in  the  industry; 
(4)  sex,  country  ol  birth,  and  former  occupation  of  each  employee;  (5) 
machine  production  from  wool  scouring  to  spinning;  (6)  loona  produc- 
tion and  weaving  time  of  each  weaver;  (7)  weaving  labor  piece  price 
per  yard ;  (8)  kind  of  goods  woven,  with  number  of  ends,  weight,  size, 
and  quality  of  yarns,  picks  per  inch,  and  speed  of  loom  in  picks  per 
minute. 

The  census  of  1909  reported  that  in  all  of  the  woolen  and  worsted 
mills  of  the  United  States  there  were  72,185  looms,  1,978  worsted 
combs,  3,822  woolen  and  2,259  worsted  carding  machines,  1,526,151 
woolen  and  1.914,454  worsted-producing  spindles.  In  the  establish- 
ments investigated  by  the  Tariff  Board  m  1911  there  were  18,634 
looms,  or  25.8  per  cent  of  the  total  in  the  United  States  in  1909;  645 
combs,  or  32.6  per  cent;  437  sets  of  woolen  cards,  or  9.7  per  cent;  627 
worsted  cards,  or  39.6  per  cent;  495,902  woolen  and  worsted  producing 
spindles,  or  12.4  per  cent  of  the  total. 

The  mills  investigated  were  in  the  following  States:  Maine,  New 
Hampshire,  Vermont,  Massachusetts,  Connecticut,  Ehode  Island, 
New  Jersey,  New  York,  Pennsylvania,  Ohio,  Indiana,  Michigan,  Wis- 
consin, and  Kentucky. 

BEX,    COUNTRY  OF   BIRTH,    AND   EXPERIENCE   OF   OPERATIVES   IN   THE 

INDUSTRY. 

The  agents  of  the  Tariff  Board  obtained  from  each  employee 
answers  to  certain  specified  questions  upon*  individual  schedule 
cards,  of  which  the  following  is  a  copy: 


THE   WOOLEN  AND   WORSTED  INDUSTRY. 


Identification  No. 


Pay  roll  No.  and  name  of  employee, 
Sex  of  employee  (male  or  female),  — 

Under  or  over  16  years  of  age, 

Specific  occupation  of  employee, 


The  Tariff  Board, 

Washington,  D.  C. 


Name  of  department  of  mill  where  working. 
Years  or  months  employed  in  this  mill, 


Years  or  months  employed  in  this  occupation, . 

Years  or  months  employed  in  the  woolen  industry, . 

Name  of  former  industry  and  occupation  before  beginning  work  in  woolen  mills. 


Coimtry  of  birth  of  employee, . 

The  above  questions  were  answered  by  35,029  persons  at  work  in 
the  mills  in  the  14  States  at  the  time  of  the  agents'  visits. 

The  following  table,  derived  from  tjie  answers  given,  shows  the 
occupation,  sex,  and  country  of  birth  of  those  employees: 

32080"— H.  Doc.  342, 62-2,  vol  2 ^22  ^^ 


050 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIPF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


Table  1— Number  of  employees  in  woolen  and  worsted  mills  in  the 


Total. 

Males 

Fe- 

'  males 

Country  of  birth. 

Department  and  occapotiim. 

United  States 

Canada. 

England. 

Males 

'  males 

Males 

,      Fe- 
'  males 

Malee 

Fe- 
'  males. 

Supervisory  and  clerical: 

Overseer,  foreman,  etc 

-     l,38fi 

575 

1,324 
439 

•B2 
136 

562 

156 

22 
103 

57 
7 

1 

347 
49 



16 

Clerk(miU) 

Total 

.      1,961 

1,763 

690 

31 

119 

198 

168 
63 

718 

253 

6 

19 

125 

64 

1 

396 

133 
1 
4 

16 

4 

7' 

Wool-sorting  department: 

Wool  sorter 

858 

31 

172 

12 

— « — 
15 

3 

Wool  mixer 

Picker  tender 

26 

8 

Total 

1,0*>1 

840 

221 

277 

38 

23 

3 

138 

11 

Wool-scouring  department: 

Scoiiring-macnine  tender 

Other  machine  tender 

1C2 
33 

137 
33 

25 

23 
6 

6 

15 
1 

Total 

19,5 

170 

25 

oo 

1 

6 

16 

iiy  1 

1 

Carding  department: 

Card  tender 

320 

158 

164 

78 

54 

258 

158 

158 

64 

51 

62 

6" 

14 
3 

79 
44 
82 
18 
17 

11 

i' 

1 

21 

10 
6 

1 

8 
7 
25 
1 
1 

i' 

Card  stripper 

Card  grinder 

Ballinghead  tender 

Other  machine  tender 

2 

Total 

774 

689 

85 

240 

13 

39 

1 

42 

1 

Combing  department: 

Comber 

oB9 

753 

31 

207 

246 

11 

192 

507 

20 

20 

36 

2 

48 

74 

3 

7 
11 

1 
9 

8 
18 

'"« 

Gill  box  tender 

Other  machine  tender 

Total 

1,183 

464 

719 
1.365 

68 
51 

125 
374 

18 
7 

^1 

10 

26 

41 

Drawing     department:      Drawing 
frame  tender 

1,603 

238 

37 

7 

106 

Spinning  department: 

Doff  er 

937 

1,831 

1,048 

67 

44 

40G 

38 

403 

758 

805 

65 

37 

102 

38 

534 

1,073 

243 

2 

7 

304 

168 
301 
365 
33 
16 
25 
16 

296 

453 

72 

2 

2 

4 



0 

64 
52 
7 
4 
9 
3 

39 

74 

1 

14 

66 

66 

2 

4 

22 

40 

5 

Spinner 

Bobbin  carrier  and  rail  setter... 
Band  bov 

Roll  coverer ♦  , . 

Piecer 

Back  boy 

2S 

1 

Total 

4,371 

2,208 

*>  irQ 

i\<r>*    1 

829 

138 

114 

176 

67 

£, Ihd              »4t 

Twisting    department:       Twisting 
frame  tender 

1,234 

67 

1,167          24 

392 

4 

49 

7 

43 

Spooling  and  whiding  department: 
Winder 

582' 
1,114 

110 
58 

472 

1,056 

33 
41 

216 
621    . 

5 

38 
71 

5 
2 

26 

48 

Spooler 

Total 

1,*596 

168 

1,528 

74 

837 

5 

109 

7 

74 

Dressing  department: 

Dresser  tender 

462 

86 

343 
15 

119 
71 

210 

6 

62 
3 

2,5    . 
1 

'"'i' . 

47 

4 

Beamer 

Total 

548 

3.58 

190 

216 

66 

26 

1 

47 

4 

Weaving  department: 

Weaver 

6,728 
602 
171 
326 

2,838 
602   . 
15 
13 

2,890 

'156' 
313 

814 
273    . 
15 
7 

769 

"m  . 

218 

298 
40   . 

""2" 

299 

""is' . 

22 

142 
104    . 

■"'2' 

177 

*   "4* 

15 

Loom  fixer 

Hander-in 

Drawer-in 

Total 

6,827 

3,468     . 

J.  359 

1    inn      ■•   <vtj 

339 

248 

196 

l,lW 

I, inn 

340 

BEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


951 


United  States^  hy  seJt  and  country  of  birth  and  by  department  and  occupation. 


Country  of  birth— Continued. 

France. 

Oennany. 

Ireland,  Scot- 
land, and 
Wales. 

Italy. 

Norway, 

Sweden,  and 

Denmark. 

Eastern  and 

Southeastern 

Europe. 

Other 
countries. 

Males. 

Fe- 
males. 

Males. 

Fe- 
males. 

Males. 

Fe- 
males. 

Males. 

Fe- 
males. 

Males. 

Fe- 
males. 

Males. 

Fe- 
males. 

Males. 

Fe- 
males. 

7 

117 
117 

9 

8 

121 
15 

4' 

36 
9 

8 

6 
4 

54 

74 

22 
3 

17 

8 

2 

7 

234 

17 

136 

4 

45 

8 

10 

128 

25 

25 

2 

i 

26 
4 

3 

i" 

44 
4' 

4 

69 

1 

27 

35 

4 

134 

7 

36 

101 

22 
17 
16 

6 

2 

6 

1 

1 

30 

4 

48 

4 

87 

37 

4 

6 

177 

111 

55 

7 

3 
1 

19 

22 
15 

2 

47 
8 

23 

2 
2 

4 

19 

37 

2 

55 

23 

4 

i' 

....... 

6 
3* 

3 

6 
6 
5 
3 
1 

..•...• 

55 

41 

9 

25 

7 

2 

5 

64 
34 
21 
13 
15 

30 

5' 

12 
3 

19 

16 

6 

4 

3 

10 

5 

1 

14 

3 

21 

137 

2 

5 

147 

50 

48 

10 

1 

1 

6 

8" 

4 
41 

72 

78 
6 

34 
109 

93 

76 

3 

103 

218 

17 

6 
19 

1 

9 



........ 

1 

7 

8 

45 

156 

143 

172 

338 

25 

10 

..... 

25 

4 

10 

3 

91 

83 

137 



7 

28 

513 

66 

65 

1 
0 
3 

1 

3 
5 

'"""66' 
13 

8 
22 

8 

4 

31 
32 

3 

5 
2 

139 

151 

194 

11 

2 

6 

4 

110 

281 

18 

3' 

3 

1 
3 
....... 

22 

68 
69 
11 
7 
21 
12 

40 
144 
136 

46 

13 

8 

12 

46 

1 

3 
3 
2 

3 
2 

1 

2 
293 

13 

...... 

5 

2 



24 

8 

87 

43 

68 

10 

507 

414 

6 

4 

210 

615 

69 

59 

2 

21 

4 

11 

3 

236 

1 

7 

22 

401 

7 

4 
1 

1 
1 

7 
14 

3 
1 

3 
22 

25 
11 

141 

137 

4 

21 

23 
116 

17 
2 

10 
26 

5 

2 

21 

4 

25 

36 

278 

4 

21 

139 

19 

36 

12 
1 

7 

27 
2 

2 

5 
3 

1 

46 

4 

6 
1 

40 

18 

7 
1 

3 

3 

13 

7 

29 

2 

8 

47 

4 

7 

58 

8 

6 

174 
10 

1 

85 

i" 

3 

265 

91 

i' 

104 

5' 

11 

115 

41 

183 

2 

9 

160 
13 

127 

17 

22 

631 
24 

916 

"'ii' 

28 

322 
6 

208 

2 
4 

3 

185 

89 

357 

120 

156 

194 

173 

133 

17 

22 

666 

961 

328 

211 

952        BEPOBT  OF  TAHIFP  BOABB  OK  SCHEDULE  K. 

Table  1. —Number  of  employees  in  woolen  and  worsted  mills  in  the  United 


Burling  and  mending  department: 

rercher 

Burler 

Mender        

InsptHitor  or  examiner 

Spet^ker 

Macht 


Finishing  department: 
Fuller 
Gigger 
Napper 

Boiler,  steamer,  or  decator 
Washer. 
Brusher 
Presser  tender 
Shearer 
Folder. 


Drrer  tender. 

Other  machine  tender 

All  other 


Total 

Dyeing  department:  Machine  tender. 

General  labor  department: 

Helper 

Laborer "  "' i    j^go 

Nonmaehine  worker,  not  "speci- 
fied    ^ 


Mechanical  department: 

Beltmaker 

Blacksmith [[[ 

Carpenter " 

Machinist *' 


Total ^ 

Another  occupations j    2, 824 

Grand  total 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOAED  ON   SCHEDULE   K.  953 

States,  by  sex  and  country  of  birth  and  by  department  and  occupation — Continued. 


Country  of  birth — Continued. 

France. 

Germany. 

Ireland,  Scot- 
land, and 
Wales. 

Italy. 

Norway, 

Sweden,  and 
Denmark. 

Eastern  and 

Soiilhcastem 
Europe. 

Other 
couiftries. 

Males. 

Fe- 
males. 

Males. 

Fe- 
males. 

Males. 

Fe- 
males. 

Males. 

Fe- 
males. 

Males. 

Fe- 
males. 

Males. 

Fe- 
males. 

Males. 

Fe- 
males. 

3 

i' 

35 

i' 

2 
29 
17 
4 
2 
1 

16 

2 

12 

3 
66 
59 

5 
29 

6 
1 
7 

15 
1 
1 

2 
69 
1 
2 
1 
2 

3 
2' 

2' 

7 
1 

20 
1 
5 

62 
2 

1 

307 

30 

97 

7 

4 

6 

""io" 
1 

4 
11 

61 

11 

2 

2 

1 

1 

2 

2 

16 

40 

55 

30 

162 

31 

77 

5 

10 

96 

446 

17 

77 

1 

5 
6 
3 
1 
8 

13 
4 
2 
1 
8 
3 
12 
12 
3 

25 
39 
20 

3' 

...... 

13 
20 

4 

6 
97 

7 
13 
13 

9 
33 
70 
15 

82 
67 
65 
39 

130 
12 
55 
87 
1 
78 

124 
68 

5 
4 
1 

19 

""is" 

5 

9' 

22 

2 
2 

13 
8 
9 
9 

15 
9 

15 
14 
2 
9 
13 
11 

i' 

2' 

1 
1 

1 
1 
1 
1 
1 

3 

i 

8 

2 

1 

6 

3 

87 

1 

142 

13 

300 

10 

4 

798 

73 

77 

2 



....... 

7 

2 

18 

55 

46 

23 

17 

3 

7 

1 

64 
39 

15 

4 
1 

2 

37 

55 

42 

1 

7 

2 

172 
237 

123 

17 
27 

10 

3 
1 

6 

1 

273 
543 

131 

67 
24 

13 

13 
49 

12 

6 

11 

118 

7 

134 

10 

532 

54 

10 

1 

947 

104 

74 

6 

5 

1 

3 

19 

22 

1 

5 

7 

16 



35 

14 

4 

28 

52 

4 

4 

12 
9 

1 

2 

2 
2 

3 



8 

45 

29 

56 

3 

98 

4 

8 

5 

2 

102 

9 

182 

26 

240 

33 

10 

603 

146 

62 

3 

2o0         148 

1,147 

327 

1,031 

597 

2,486 

1,611 

74 

66 

4,170 

4,030 

891 

501 

954 


EEPOBT  OF  TABDT  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


Of  the  35,029  wage-earners  shown  in  the  table  1 ,386,  or  3  9  oer  cent 
hT,  ^T^ll'''  supervisory  work,  being  ove«ee'^  foremenrse^nd 
hands  third  haods  and  section  hands.     Over  thre^fourths  (26  403 
or  75  4  per  cent)  of  the  total  number  were  engaged  in  wo?k  th'at^ 
directly  contnbutory  to  the  production  of  woolln  and  woraTed  good^ 
such  as  wool  sortmg  and  scouring,  combing,  drawing,  spinnbe  S- 

The  remaining  7,240  employees,  forming  20.7  per  cent  of  the  total 

^1?  iCr  *°^''^'^  ""  *^*  S"""'*^  "^^'^  ^^^  is  necessary  aCt  any 
mdl.  They  reore^nt  a  great  variety  of  occupations  ringing  from 
the  sunple  work  of  scrubbing  and  sweeping  to  the  skiUed  S  oH 
W  f^lfi-  ^^''^  ,*  t^^^^/^d  (1,122)  helped  are  classified  Tbelong- 
triDuto^  to  a  degree  to  the  woolen  and  worsted  products  Their 
il'le^  tdZ^.  '*'*""*  ""  "^"^  knowledge  of  the^proce^  of  the 

nu^eriS^^^^i'in/f  *^''-°^,«*'r'**'^^  ^^'^  ^^^^e^^.  tWs  cla^ 

o^at^wf  Th!  ^i  "'■"^  l^-*  ^'-T^  «'  ^^^  total  number  of 
operatires.    Tlie  other  occupations  with  more  than  a  thousand 

mende^Tw^^^rK^  sp^mers  (1  831),  drawing-frame  tende.;  (S, 
ZT£^(i^l'^^\.t!n  il'o.^^^'  ^^^'^"^   »'280).  twisting-frame 

♦V,  Ju  ^^'^^^J  of  specific  occupations  reported  was  much  greater  in 
the  lareer  and  more  highly  organized  mills  than  in  the  sm  Jer  iSlb 
This  of  course  was  to  be  expected,  for  division  of  labor  m  its  hiS" 
form  IS  possible  only  in.  the  larger  mills.  In  the  smXr  mi^Tt  is 
necessary  for  one  operative  to  do  work  of  various  kinds  in  orri^  JL? 
his  tune  may  be  utilized  to  the  best  advantage  a^d  that  thl  work  mav 
be  advanced  most  satisfactorily.  Thus  in^any  inst^c^  one  ove^ 
aeer  had  two  or  three  departments  under  his  care. 


8SZ. 


viited  thrS''^%'l7  ""P'^r,**  ^  **"*  "^^  **  *!»«  t™«  th«  "gents 

^8  pi^c^nT^Am'd^':  ''•'  ^'  *"''*'  "«•"  "'^^^  -^  ^^'68%  or 

Males  were  reported  for  each  of  the  58  occupations  shown  seoa- 

ratelv  m  this  tabfe  but  naturally  there  are  a  number  of  occuDX.ns ?nr 

fiSlZXnT  X/^P^^t^"  .^^.^  ^T^  were  r7pt°ed  ^iT^ed- 
nea  occupations     In  1 6  of  these  the  female  wage-earners  outnuml^red 

the  male      In  the  16  occupations  there  were  13  277  femXs  anH  ^qn^ 

Zln'  V/r'^'T  ^^^  't\^'  centanr28  s'^r  centre^pec- 
Ser  h^ndZ^J'T"''^  •?  "^^"^^  women  predomin^ed  are  buSer, 
mender,  handeiv-in,  drawer-m,  specker,  spooler,  twistine-frame  tender 

TCiite.*r^";i;  »>eamer,%rindek  fccer  and  J-boTtender  ' 
CTP^  fhft  K  ""  .  ?""l''^''  of  ™*1«  *«d  f«m^«  weavers  is  not 
great,  the  number  of  males  being  2,838  and  the  number  of  femafes, 

COUNTKY  OF  BIRTH. 


BEPOBT  OP  TAEEFF  BOABD  OIT  SCHEDULE  K. 


955 


Table  2. — Number  and  percentage  of  employees  in  woolen  and  worsted  mills  in  the 

United  States,  by  sex  and  by  country  of  birth. 


Country  of  birth. 


Total 

United  States 

Canada 

England 

France 

Germany 

Ireland ,  Scotland,  and  Wales 

Italy 

Norway,  Sweden,  and  Denmark.. 
Eastern  and  southeastern  Europe 
Other  countries 


Total. 

Male. 

Female. 

Per  cent  distribution. 

Total. 

Male. 

Female. 

35,029 

19,347 

15,682 

100.0 

100.0 

100.0 

12,799 

6,140 

6,659 

36.5 

31.7 

42.5 

2,102 

1,178 

924 

6.0 

6.1 

5.9 

2,799 

1,980 

819 

8.0 

10.2 

6.2 

398 

250 

148 

1.1 

1.3 

0.9 

1,474 

1,147 

327 

4.2 

fi.9 

2.1 

1,628 

1,031 

597 

4.7 

6.3 

3.8 

4,097 

2,486 

1,611 

11.7 

12.9 

10.3 

140 

74 

66 

0.4 

0.4 

0.4 

8,200 

4,170 

4,030 

23.4 

21.6 

25.7 

1,392 

891 

501 

4.0 

4.6 

3.2 

In  the  establishments  investigated,  12,799,  or  36.5  per  cent  of  the 
total  number  of  persons  employed,  were  bom  in  the  United  States 
and  22,230,  or  63.5  per  cent,  were  foreign  bom.  Of  the  22.230  for- 
eign bora,  12,297  persons,  or  35.1  per  cent  of  aU  of  the  employees  in 
the  mUls^ere  natives  of  Italy  ana  the  comitries  of  eastern  and  south- 
eastern Europe.  Great  Britain  and  Ireland  are  represented  by 
4,427,  or  12.7  per  cent,  of  the  wage  earners;  Canada,  by  2,102,  or  6.0 
per  cent;  and  Germany  by  1,474,  or  4.2  per  cent.  No  other  country 
is  represented  by  so  large  a  number  of  operatives. 

More  females  than  males  were  reported  for  the  United  States  and  for 
eastern  and  southeastern  Europe,  while  the  countries  contributing 
more  largely  to  the  number  of  male  operatives  are  Germany ,  Great 
Britain  and  Ireland,  France,  Italy,  and  Canada. 

Some  interesting  facts  with  regard  to  the  nationalities  represented 
in  various  kinds  of  work  are  brought  out  in  the  larger  table  (Table  1) 

flven  above.  The  native  bom  predominated  in  the  occupations  that 
emand  especial  skiU  or  ability.  The  natives  of  the  British  Isles  and 
Germany  were  found  chiefly  in  the  occupations  requiring  considerable 
skill,  wliile  Italy  and  the  coimtries  of  eastern  and  southeastern  Europe 
are  represented  largely  in  the  occupations  requiring  comparatively 
little  or  no  experience  or  skill,  although  many  wage-earners  from 
those  countries  have  attained  to  a  great  degree  of  efficiency. 

The  supervisory  class  was  made  up  largely  of  native-bom  and 
British  employees.  The  native  bom  formed  42.1  per  cent  of  the 
total  number,  although  the  proportion  of  native  bom  in  the  total 
number  of  wage-eamers  in  the  specified  mills  was  only  36.5  per  cent. 
Tlie  EngUsh  overseers,  foremen,  etc.,  numbered  347,  or  one-fourth 
of  the  total  number,  while  the  English,  Irish,  Scotch,  and  Welsh  in 
this  supervisory  class  together  constituted  over  one-third  (468,  or  33.8 
per  cent)  of  the  total. 

The  largest  proportion  of  native  born  is  shown  for  the  menders. 
Of  1,435  menders,  1,059,  or  73.8  per  cent,  were  bom  in  the  United 
States.  The  work  of  the  menders  is  practically  weaving  by  hand, 
and  requires  much  care  and  skill  and  plays  an  important  part  in  the 
perfection  of  the  product  of  the  mills. 

The  majority  of  the  dresser  tenders,  spoolers,  and  burlers  also  were 
native  born,  as  shown  by  the  followmg  summary  table  based  on 
Table  1.     This  summary  presents  data  for  those  occupations  wliich 


»66 


liii^'l 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOAHD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


reqiiire   experience   and   unon  which   efficiency   in   manufacturing 
woolen  and  worsted  goods  depends  to  a  great  degree. 

'^''w^.^'^fn^fhl^Tr^T^f  '"'^7^^''^  arid  foreign  bom  employees  in  woolen  and 
^.ZJTm-  "•  ^^  ^""l^^  SMtesJor  occupations  which  require  experience  and  won 
which  efficiency  m  rrmnufactunng  woolen  and  worsted  goods  niainly  depends  ^ 


Occupatkm. 


Wool  sorter 

Wool  carder 

Card  stripper " 

Comb  and  gill  box  tender.. . 

Drawing-frame  tender 

Spinner 

Twisting-frame  tender 

Spooler  and  winder 

Dresser  tender 

Weaver 

Loom  fixer .,. 

Bm-ler 

Mender "[[' 

Finishing-machine  tender.. ! .' 
Overseer  and  foreman 


858 

690 

320 

258 

158 

158 

1.152 

453 

1.003 

238 

1.831 

758 

1,234 

67 

1,C90 

168 

462 

343 

5,728 

2,838 

602 

602 

1.348 

16 

1.435 

107 

2,402 

2,290 

1,386 

1,324 

168 

265 

62 

90 

44 

699 

178 

1,365 

425 

1,073 

754 

1,167 

416 

1,528 

Oil 

119 

272 

2,890 

1,583 

273 

i.332 

686 

1,328 

1,059 

172 

576 

e 

584 

Country  of  birth. 


Occupation. 


Other  foreign  countries. 


Total,  foreign  countries. 


Total. 


Wool  sorter 

Wool  carder 

Card  stripper 

Comb  and  gUl  box 
tender 

Drawing-frame 

tender 

Spinner 

Twisting-frame 
tender 

Spooler  and  winder. . 

Dresser  tender 

Weaver 

Loom  fixer. 

Hurler 

Mender 

Finishing  -  machine 
tender 

Overseer  and  fore- 
man  


Males. 


Fe- 
males. 


Total. 


Per  cent  of  totaL 


Bom  in  foreign  coun- 
tries. 


Males. 


264 
79 
39 

191 

417 
433 

156 

311 
138 
2,411 
292 
284 
333 

705 

682 


244 

60 
39 

78 

76 
238 

IS 

37 

122 

1,333 

292 

11 

8 

668 

672 


20 
19 


113 

341 

195 

138 

274 

16 

1,078 


Fe- 
males. 


Bom 

in 
United 
States. 


TotaL 


273 
326 

87 

10 


593 
230 

114 

974 

1,178 
1,077 

818 
786 
190 
4,145 
329 
662 
376 

1,886 

802 


437 
179 
114 

397 

187 
457 

43 

94 

133 

2,024 

329 

13 

20 

1,766 

762 


156 
51 


677 

991 
620 

776 

691 

67 

2,121 


649 
356 

120 

40 


30.9 
28.1 
27.8 

16.5 

26.6 
41.2 

33.7 
53.7 
58.9 
27.6 
45.3 
60.9 
73.8 

23.4 

42.1 


69.1 
7L9 
72.2 

84.6 

73.6 
58.8 

66.3 
46.3 
41.1 
72.4 
54.7 
49.1 
26.2 

76.6 

57.9 


Italv 

and 
eastern 

and 
south- 
eastern 

Eu- 
rope. 


Other 
foreign 
coun- 
tries. 


38.3 
47.2 
47.6 

68.0 

47.5 
35.2 

63.7 
28.0 
1L3 
30.3 

6.2 
28.0 

3.0 

48.0 
8.7 


30.8 
24.7 
24.7 

16.5 

26.0 
23.6 

12.6 
18.3 
29.8 
42.1 
48.5 
21.1 
23.2 

28.6 

49.2 


r 


I 


t 


EEPORT  OF   TARIFF   BOARD   ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


957 


Table  3  brings  out  the  fact  that  more  than  two-thirds  of  the 
operatives  in  seven  of  the  important  occupations  were  foreign 
born  These  occupations  and  the  percentages  of  foreign  born  for 
them  are  as  follows:  Comb  and  gill-box  tender,  84.5;  finishing-ma- 
chine tender,  76.6;  drawing-frame  tender,  73.5;  weaver,  72.4;  card 
stripper,  72.2;  wool  carder,  71.9;  and  wool  sorter,  69.1. 

Tlie  natives  of  Italy  and  eastern  and  southeastern  Europe  were  more 
numerous  than  the  native  born  in  combing,  gill-box  tendmg,  drawing- 
frame  tending,  card  stripping,  wool  carding,  wool  sorting,  twisting- 
frame  tendiQg,  finishing-machine  tending,  and  weaving. 

Many  nationalities  are  represented  among  the  weavers  and  the 
spinners.  In  the  case  of  the  weavers  only  a  little  over  one-fourth 
(1,583,  or  27.6  per  cent)  were  native  born,  and  a  slightly  larger  pro- 
portion (2,411,  or  30.3  per  cent)  were  from  eastern  and  southeastern 
Europe.  Canada  stood  out  prominently  with  597,  or  10.4  per  cent, 
of  all  the  weavers. 

In  the  case  of  spinners  the  proportion  of  native  bom  was  greater, 
those  born  in  the  United  States  forming  41.2  per  cent  of  the  total 
number.  Over  one-third  (35.2  per  cent)  were  born  in  Italy  and  coun- 
tries in  eastern  and  southeastern  Europe.  The  remaining  23.6  per 
cent  were  born  in  Canada,  Great  Britain  and  Ireland,  Germany, 
France,  and  other  countries. 

The  following  summary  shows  the  distribution  of  native  and  for- 
eign born  in  the  various  departments : 

Table  4. — Employees  in  woolen  and  worsted  mills  in  the  United  States,  by  department 

and  by  country  of  birth. 


Department 


Total. 


Sorting 

Scouring 

Carding 

Combing 

Drawing 

Spinning 

Twisting 

Spooling  and  wind- 
ing  

Br^sing 

Weaving 

Burling  and  mend- 
ing  

Finishing , 

Dyeing 

General  labor 

Mechanical 

Other  occupations. , 

Supervisory  and 
clerical 


Total. 


35,029 


1,061 
195 
774 
1,183 
1,603 
4,371 
1,234 

1,696 

548 
6,827 

4,220 
2,462 

229 
3,197 

644 
2,824 

1,961 


Country  of  birth. 


United  States. 

Number. 

Per  cent. 

12,799 

36.5 

315 

29.7 

29 

14.9 

253 

32.7 

183 

15.5 

425 

26.5 

1,753 

40.1 

416 

33.7 

911 

53.7 

281 

51.3 

2,203 

32.3 

2,548 

60.4 

576 

23.4 

34 

14.8 

873 

27.3 

230 

35.7 

926 

32.8 

843 

43.0 

Foreign  countries. 


Total. 


Number. 


22,230 


Per  cent. 


63.5 


746 

166 

521 

1,000 

1,178 

2,618 

818 

785 

267 

4,624 

1,672 
1,886 

195 
2,324 

414 
1,898 

1,118 


70.3 
85.1 
67.3 
84.5 
73.5 
59.9 
66.3 

46.3 

48.7 
67.7 

39.6 
76.6 

85.2 
72.7 
64.3 
67.2 

57.0 


Italy  and  eastern 

and  southeastern 

Europe. 


Number. 


12,297 


412 
117 
336 
809 
761 
1,746 
662 

474 

120 

1,822 

650 
1,181 

124 
1,637 

131 
1,082 

206 


Per  cent. 


35.1 


38.8 
60.0 
43.4 
68.4 
47.5 
39.9 
53.7 

28.0 
21.9 
26.7 

15.4 
48.0 
54.2 
51.2 
20.3 
38.3 

10.5 


Other  foreign 
countries. 


Number.  Per  cent. 


9,933 


28.4 


334 
49 
185 
191 
417 
872 
156 

311 

147 

2,802 

1,022 
705 
71 
687 
283 
816 

912 


31.5 
25.1 
23.9 
16.1 
26.0 
20.0 
12.6 

18.3 
26.8 
41.0 

24.2 
28.6 
31.0 
21.5 
44.0 
28.9 

46.5 


958 


BEPOBT  OP  TARIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEBULE  K. 


The  only  departments  in  which  the  number  of  operatives  bom  in 
the  United  States  was  greater  than  the  number  bom  in  foreign  coun- 
tries are  the  spoolmg  and  winding,  dressing,  and  burling  and  mending 
departments.  Of  these,  the  burling  and  mending  department  had  the 
largest  proportion  of  native-born  operatives.  Of  the  4,220  employees 
in  the  burlmg  and  mending  department,  2,548,  or  60.4  per  cent,  were 
born  in  the  United  States. 

The  departments  with  the  largest  proportions  of  foreigners  are  the 
scouring,  combing,  and  dyeing  departments.  In  each  of  these  depart- 
ments over  four-fiftlis  of  the  operatives  were  from  foreign  countries. 
Operatives  from  Italy  and  eastern  and  southeastem  Europe  predom- 
inated in  each  of  these  departments. 


EXPERIENCE   OF  OPERATIVES. 

The  question  of  previous  experience  is  an  important  one.  The  fol- 
lowing table  is  a  summary  of  the  facts  brought  out  by  the  answers 
to  the  querj  as  to  the  former  industry  and  occupation  before  begin- 
ning work  m  woolen  and  worsted  mills: 

Table  h.— Number  and  percentage  of  employees  in  woolen  and  worsted  mills  in  the 

United  S  totes  j  by  sex  and  by  former  industry. 


Former  industry. 


Total. 


TotaL 


Mate. 


Female. 


35,029 


Not  gainful,  in  school,  and  at  home , 

Agriculture,  forestry,  and  animal  hus- 
bandry   

Mining \ 

Transportation  and  trade 

Public  service 

Professional  service ] 

Domestic  and  i>ersonai  service 

other  textile  industry  than  woolen  indua- 

^try 

other  manuliacturing  and  mechanical  pur- 
suit  


17,835 

6,252 
268 

4,447 

U9 

47 

1,213 

2,967 
2,881 


19,347 


7,678 

3,139 
266 

3,971 

115 

35 

194 

1,681 

2,268 


Per  cent  distribution. 


TotaL 


15,682 


10,157 

2,113 

2 

476 

4 

12 

1,019 

1,286 

613 


100.0 


Male. 


Female. 


50.9 
15.0 

as 

12.7 
0.3 
0.1 
3.5 

8.5 

8.2 


100.0 


39.7 

16.2 
1.4 

2a5 
0.6 

a2 

LO 

&7 
11.7 


100.0 


64.8 


0) 
0) 


13.6 


3.0 

0.1 
6.5 

8.2 

8.0 


1  Less  than  one-tenth  of  1  per  cent. 

Of  the  35,029  operatives,  29,181^  or  83.3  per  cent,  had  no  experience 
m  any  manufacturing  or  mechanical  industiy  before  going  to  work 
in  the  woolen  and  worsted  mills. 

Wage  earners  to  the  number  of  2,967,  or  8.5  per  cent  of  the  total 
number,  had  been  previously  employed  in  textile  mdustries  other 
than  the  woolen  industiy,  and  2,881,  or  8.2  per  cent,  had  been 
employed  in  other  manufacturing  or  mechanical  industries. 

Of  the  29,181  persons  who  had  no  ''previous  experience''  before 
entering  the  woolen  mills,  17,835,  or  50.9  per  cent  of  the  total  number, 
had  been  at  school  or  at  home,  and  11,346,  or  32.4  per  cent  of  the 
total  number,  had  been  emploved  in  agriculture,  transportation, 
trade,  domestic  service,  and  otner  nonmanufacturing  occupations. 

The  classification  of  industries  used  by  the  Bureau  of  the  Census 
in  the  presentation  of  the  data  for  occupations  for  the  enumeration 
of  1910  has  been  followed  in  the  preparation  of  the  tables  showmg 
former  industry. 


BEPOET  OF  TAEIFP  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


959 


Of  the  19,347  male  employees,  about  two-fifths  (7,678,  or  39.7  per 
cent)  had  not  been  engaged  m  any  gainful  occupation  before  entermg 
the  woolen  and  worsted  mills;  one-fifth  (3,971,  or  20.5  per  cent)  haa 
been  engaged  in  transportation  and  trade;  and  one-fifth  (3,949,  or 
20.4  per  cent)  had  haa  experience  in  manufacturing  and  mechanical 
pursuits  other  than  the  woolen  industry. 

A  larger  proportion  of  the  female  operatives  (10,157,  or  64.8  per 
cent  of  the  15,682  women  and  girls  engaged  in  the  work  of  the  mills) 
were  entirely  new  to  the  industrial  world,  having  entered  the  mills 
directlv  from  the  home  or  the  school.  Over  2,000  (2,113,  or  13.5  per 
cent)  nad  been  engaged  in  agricultural  pursuits.  The  number  of 
women  who  had  had  some  previous  experience  in  manufacturing 
and  mechanical  pursuits  was  1,899,  or  12.1  percent  of  all  the  female 
wage  earners  in  these  mills. 

The  number  of  operatives  with  previous  experience  in  other  textile 
industries  than  the  woolen  industry  and  in  other  manufacturing  and 
mechanical  pursuits  was  5,848,  and  of  these,  2,212,  or  37.8  per  cent, 
were  born  in  the  United  States,  and  3,636,  or  62.2  per  cent,  were  of 
foreign  birth.     This  is  shown  in  the  following  summary  table : 

Table  6. — Number  of  employees  in  woolen  and  worsted  mills  in  the  United  States^  by 

country  of  birth  and  by  former  industry. 


Total 
num- 
ber. 

Per 
cent 
of 
total 
num- 
ber. 

Former  industry. 

Country  of  birth. 

At  school  or 
home. 

Agriculture, 

trade,  and 

domestic  and 

other  service. 

Other  tex- 
tile industry 
than 
woolen. 

other  manu- 
facturing and 
mechanical 
pursuit. 

• 

Num- 
ber. 

Per 
cent 
of 
total 
num- 
ber. 

Num- 
ber. 

Per 

cent 
of 
total 
num- 
ber. 

Nnm- 
bOT. 

Per 

cent 
of 
total 
num- 
ber. 

Num- 
ber. 

Per 
cent 
of 
total 
num- 
ber. 

Total 

35,029 

100.0 

17,835 

50.9 

11,346 

32.4 

2,967 

a6 

2,881 

&2 

United  States 

12,799 
22,230 

36.5 
63.6 

8,733 
9,102 

24.9 
26.0 

1,854 
9,492 

5.3 
27.1 

1,068 
1,899 

3.0 
6l4 

1,144 
1,737 

3.3 
6.0 

Foreign  countries 

Italy  and  eastern  and  south- 
eastem Europe 

12,297 
9,933 

35.1 
28. 4 

3,843 
6,259 

11.0 
15.0 

7,069 
2,423 

20.2 
6.9 

626 
1,373 

L5 
3.9 

859 
878 

2.5 

2.5 

Other  foreign  countries 

Of  the  11,346  operatives  who  had  been  employed  in  agriculture, 
trade,  and  domestic  and  other  service  before  entermg  the  woolen  and 
worsted  mills,  9,492  were  bom  in  foreign  countries,  and  of  these 
foreign-bom  operatives  7,069  came  from  Italy  and  eastern  and  south- 
eastern Europe. 

Table  7  shows  the  distribution  of  the  operatives  by  country  of 
birth  and  by  former  industry. 


960  BEPORT  OF  TAEIFF  BOARD  OK  SCHEDULiE   K. 

Table  7.— Number  and  percentage  of  employees  in  woolen  and  worsted  mills  in  the  United 

>'/ ''('s,  by  country  ofhirth  and  by  former  industry. 


Country  of  birth. 


Total. 


Former  industry. 


Not 
gainful, 

in 
school 
and  at 
home. 


Total. 


United  States 

Canada 

England 

France 

Germany 

Ireland,  Scotland,  and  Wales 

Italy 

Norway,  Sweden,  and  Denmark. . 
Eastern  and  southeastern  Europe. 
Other  countries 


35,029 


12,799 
2.102 
2,799 

398 
1.474 
1.628 
4,097 

140 
8.200 
1,392 


Agri- 
cul- 

tun, 
fores- 

^1 
and 

ani- 
mal 
hus- 
band- 
ry. 


17,835 


8,733 

1,062 

1,637 

294 

845 

754 

1,903 

65 

1,940 

602 


5.252 


358 
212 

42 

4 

108 

118 

610 

18 
3,522 
260 


Min- 
ing. 


268 


24 
1 

48 
1 
4 

19 

26 

1 

133 

11 


Trans- 
porta- 
tion 
and 
trade. 


4,447 


1,144 
221 
345 
25 
196 
238 

l,a33 
23 

1,(M7 
175 


Pub- 
lic 
serv- 
ice. 


119 


37 
5 

15 
1 
6 

14 

21 
2 

16 
2 


Pro- 
fes- 
sional 
serv- 
ice. 


Do- 
mes- 
tic 
and 
per- 
sonal 
serv- 
ice. 


Other 
tex- 
tile 
in- 
dus- 
try 
than 
wool- 
en in- 
dus- 
try. 


Other 
nian- 
ufac- 
tur- 
in^ 
anc 
me- 
chan- 
ical 
pur- 
suit. 


47 


17 
2 

2 


1 
6 
10 
1 
6 
2 


1,213 


274 
44 
31 
10 
40 
60 

119 
12 

526 
97 


2,967 


1,068 
363 
447 
43 
141 
239 
105 
3 
421 
137 


2,881 


1,144 
192 
232 

20 
133 
180 
270 

16 
589 
106 


PER  CENT. 


Total 100.0 


United  States 

Canada 

England 

France 

Germany 

Ireland,  Scotland,  and  Wales 

Italy 

Norway,  Sweden,  and  Denmark. . 
Eastern  and  southeastern  Europe. 
Other  countries 


50.9 


100.0 
100.0 
100.0 
100.0 
100.0 
100.0 
100.0 
100.0 
100.0 
100.0 


68.2 
50.5 
58.5 
73.8 
57.3 
46.3 
46.5 
46.4 
23.7 
43.3 


15.0 


2.8 

10.1 

1.5 

1.0 

7.3 

7.2 

14.9 

12.9 

42.9 

18.7 


0.8 


12.7 


0.2 
0.1 
1.7 
0.3 
0.3 
1.2 
0.6 
0.7 
1.6 
0.8 


8.9 
10.5 
12.3 

6.3 
13.3 
14.6 
25.2 
16.4 
12.8 
12.6 


0.3 


0.1 


0.3 
0.2 
0.5 
0.3 
0.4 
0.9 
0.5 
1.4 
0.2 
0.1 


0.1 
0.1 
0.1 


0.1 
0.4 
0.2 
0.7 
0.1 
0.1 


3.5 


2.2 
2.1 
1.1 
2.5 
2.7 
3.7 
2.9 
8.6 
6.4 
7.0 


8.6 


8.4 

17.3 

16.0 

10.8 

9.6 

14.7 

2.6 

2.2 

5.1 

9.8 


8.2 


8.9 
9.1 
8.3 
5.0 
9.0 

11.0 
6.6 

10.7 
7.2 
7.6 


.The  countries  ranking  above  the  average  in  the  proportion  of 
operatives  who  had  previous  experience  in  industries  where  they 
may  have  had  training  that  would  be  helpful  in  their  work  in  the 
woolen  industry  are  Canada,  Great  Britain,  Germany,  the  United 
btates,  and  France. 

Almost  one-half  of  the  operatives  from  eastern  and  southeastern 
ji^rope  had  been  engaged  m  agricultural  pursuits.  One-fourth  of 
the  Itahans  had  been  engaged  in  trade  and  transportation,  and  over 
one-eighth  in  agriculture. 

Similar  data  for  males  and  females  are  presented  in  Table  8. 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


961 


Table  %.— Number  of  employees  in  woolen  and  worsted  mills  in  the  United  States,  by 

sex  and  country  of  birth  and  by  former  industry. 


Total. 

Former  industry. 

Sex  and  country  of  birth. 

Not 
gainful 

in 
school 
and  at 
home. 

Agri- 
culture 

for- 
estry, 
and 
animal 
hus- 
band- 
ry. 

1 

Min- 
ing. 

Trans- 
porta- 
tion 
and 
trade. 

■  Pub- 
lic 
serv- 
ice. 

Pro- 
fes- 
sional 
serv- 
ice. 

Other 
TT)        Other  manu- 

mestic  f^f '!«  /ac- 

T»p-        try       and 
^^     than      me- 
?2rv    woolen  chani- 
^F}      Indus-     cal 

^^-        try.       pur- 
suit. 

Total 

35,029 

17,835 

5,252 

268 

4,447 

119 

47 

1,213 

2,967 

2,881 

Male 

19,347 
15,682 

7,678 
10,157 

3,139 
2,113 

266 
2 

3,971 
476 

115 
4 

35 
12 

194 
1,019 

1,681 
1,286 

Female 

2,268 

613 

Dniied  States 

12,799 

8,733 

368 

24 

1,144 

37 

17 

274 

1,068 

1,144 

Male 

6,140 
6,659 

3,497 
5.236 

336 
22 

24 

916 
228 

33 
4 

8 
9 

69 
205 

512 
656 

Female 

746 

399 

CaPft'iH 

2,102 

1,062 

212 

1 

221 

5 
5 

2 

44 

363 

192 

Male 

1,178 
924 

373 
689 

209 
3 

1 

207 
14 

2 

8 
36 

208 
155 

Female 

166 
27 

England 

2,799 

1,637 

42 

48 

345 

15 

2 

31 

447 

232 

Male 

1,980 
819 

1,023 
614 

42 

48 

322 
23 

15 

2 

12 
19 

298 
149 

Female 

218 
14 

France 

398 

294 

4 

1 

25 

1 

10 

43 

20 

Male 

250 
148 

179 
115 

4 

1 

18 

7 

1 

4 
6 

25 

18 

Female 

18 
2 

Oflrmany.... 

1,474 

845 

108 

4 

196 

6 

1 

40 

141 

133 

Male 

1,147 
327 

604 
241 

105 
3 

4 

189 

7 

6 

'"'i' 

6 

7 
33 

60 

108 
33 

239 

Female 

124 

9 

Ireland,  Scotland  and  Wales. .. 

1,628 

754 

118 

19 

238 

14 

180 

Male 

1,031 
697 

341 
413 

118 

18 
1 

224 
14 

14 

5 

1 

9 
51 

119 

135 
104 

Female 

167 

13 

Italy 

4,097 

1,903 

610 

26 

1,033 

21 

10 

106 

270 

Male 

2,486 
1,611 

670 
1,233 

479 
131 

26 

939 
94 

21 

9 
1 

1 

38 
81 

70 
35 

Female 

234 

36 

Norway,  Sweden,  and   Den- 
mark  

140 

65 

18 

1 

23 

2 

12 

3 

15 

Male 

74 
66 

17 

48 

1,940 

17 
1 

3,622 

1 

20 
3 

2 

1 

...... 

2 
1 

Female 

14 
1 

Eastern  and  southeastern  Eu- 
rope  

8,200 

133 

1,047 

16 

6 

526 

421 

689 

Male 

4,170 
4.030 

693 
1,247 

1,589 
1,933 

132 
1 

978 
69    . 

16 

6 

32 
494 

236 
186 

Female 

489 
100 

other  countries 

1,392 

602 

260 

11 

175 

2 

2 

97 

137 

106 

Male 

891 
501 

281 
321 

240 
20   . 

11 

158 
17    . 

2 

2 

15 

82 

88 
49 

Female 

94 
12 

From  a  study  of  the  tables  showing  the  industries  in  which  the 
operatives  were  engaged  before  they  commenced  work  m  the  woolen 
mdustry,  it  is  evident  that  only  a  small  proportion  of  the  operatives 
entered  the  woolen  and  worsted  mills  with  any  experience  that  would 
serve  to  make  them  skilled  in  the  work  tney  were  undertaking. 


962 


BEPOET  OP  TARIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


Naturally  some  months  or  even  years  would  be  required  to  make  them 
efficient  and  valuable  workers  in  the  woolen  industry. 

LENGTH  OP  SEBYIOB    OF  OPERATIVES  IN  THE   WOOLEN  INDUSTRY. 

Many  of  the  operatives  working  in  the  mills  at  the  time  they  were 
visited  by  the  agents  had  been  engaged  in  the  industry  for  a  short 
period  only.  The  length  of  time  the  operatives  had  been  employed 
m  the  industry  is  shown  in  the  following  summary  table: 

Table  9.— Number  and  percentage  of  employees  in  woolen  and  worsted  mills  in  the 
United  States,  by  sex  and  by  tim£  employed  in  industry. 


Time  employed  in  industry. 


Total 35,029 


Total. 


Male. 


Female. 


Less  than  3  months. 

3  to  5  months 

6  to  11  months 

1  year 

2years 

3  years , 

4  years 

5  to  9  years 

10  to  19  years 

20  to  29  years 

30  to  39  years 

40  years  and  over. . . 


2,019 
1,692 
2,110 
3,799 
3,877 
2,710 
2,6()4 
0,92t> 
4,919 
2,537 
1,213 
563 


19,347 


1,097 
914 
1,019 
1,771 
1,771 
1,191 
1,272 
3,679 
3,184 
1,901 
1,026 
522 


Per  cent  distribution. 


Total. 


15,682 


922 

778 

1,091 

2,028 

2,106 

1,519 

1,392 

3,247 

1,735 

636 

187 

41 


100.0 


5.8 

4.8 

6.0 

10.9 

11.1 

7.7 

7.6 

19.8 

14.0 

7.2 

3.5 

1.6 


Male.    Female. 


100.0 


5.7 
4.7 
5,3 
9.2 
9.2 
6.1 
6.6 
19.0 
16.4 
9.8 
5.3 
2.7 


100.0 


5.9 

5.0 

6.9 

12.9 

13.4 

9.7 

8.9 

20.7 

ILl 

4.0 

L2 

0.3 


About  one-sixth  of  all  the  employees— 5,821,  or  16.6  per  cent—had 
been  engaged  in  the  work  of  the  woolen  industry  less  than  1  year. 
Of  these,  2,019,  or  5.8  per  cent  of  the  total,  had  been  in  the  industry 
less  than  3  months,  and  3,711,  or  10.6  per  cent  of  all  employees,  had 
been  m  the  industry  less  than  6  months. 

Over  one-half  of  the  operatives— 18.871  persons,  or  53.9  per  cent- 
had  been  employed  in  the  industry  less  than  5  years;  about  one- 
fifth— 6,926  persons,  or  19.8  per  cent— for  5  years  and  over  but  less 
than  10  years;  and  more  than  one-fourth— 9,232,  or  26.3  per  cent— 
for  10  years  or  more.  Of  those  in  the  industry  10  years  and  over, 
4,313,  or  12.3  per  cent  of  the  total  number,  had  been  working  for 
20  years  and  more,  1,776  for  at  least  30  years,  and  563  for  at  least 
40  years. 

The  number  of  persons  of  long  service  indicates  that  the  mills  have 
some  experienced  workers. 

The  degree  of  permanency  in  the  industry  is  considerable  in  view 
of  the  fact  that  the  proportion  of  young  men  and  women  employed  in 
the  mdustry  is  large.  Naturally  long  periods  of  service  could  not  be 
expected  in  the  case  of  persons  who  have  only  lately  reached  the  age 
when  they  are  permitted  to  go  to  work. 

Moreover  many  of  the  operatives  are  of  foreign  birth  and  have  been 
in  tliis  country  for  only  a  short  time,  and  consequently  could  not  be 
in  the  industry  for  a  long  period  unless  they  came  from  the  countries 
Imvmg  woolen  and  worsted  mills.  Undoubtedly  some  experienced 
operatives  have  come  from  other  countries  and  entered  the  mills  here, 
but  their  number  is  not  large. 


REPORT  OP  TARIFF  BOARD  ON"  SCHEDUIiE  K. 


963 


On  the  whole,  however,  the  mills  are  at  a  disadvantage  because  of 
the  large  proportion  of  new  and  inefficient  workers. 

Much  of  the  inefficiency  is  due  to  the  fact  that  the  industry  draws 
largely  from  the  foreign  "born,  who  have  difficulty  in  understanding 
the  instructions  given  them  and  in  many  cases  lack  the  aptitude 
needed  to  make  them  efficient  in  the  work. 

Moreover,  the  large  number  of  young  men  and  women  in  the  indus- 
try enter  the  mills  without  any  experience  in  the  work  they  are  to  do, 
and  time  is  necessary  for  their  training. 

In  many  cases  the  mills  are  compelled  to  rely  upon  these  classes  of 
workers  and  keep  them  in  spite  of  their  inefficiency.  This  is  true 
especially  in  the  places  that  are  remote  from  the  industrial  centers. 
In  the  industrial  centers  there  are  more  workers  to  choose  from,  and 
yet,  on  the  other  hand,  there  is  apt  to  be  more  shifting  from  one  mill 
to  another.  This  shifting  may  be  caused  by  better  conditions,  by 
liigher  wa^es,  by  greater  convenience  in  location,  or  by  the  presence 
of  friends  in  a  certain  mill,  one  or  more  of  these  causes  making  one 
mill  more  desirable  than  another  to  the  operative.  Other  reasons  for 
shifting  may  be  inefficiency,  combativeness,  or  other  fault  in  the 
operative  wliich  makes  his  presenca  in  the  mill  undesirable. 

The  following  table  shows  the  number  of  employees  grouped  accord- 
ing to  the  time  they  had  been  employed  in  the  mills  in  which  they 
were  working  when  the  agents  visited  those  mills: 

Table  10. — Number  and  percentage  of  employees  in  woolen  and  worsted  mills  in  the 
United  States,  by  sex  and  by  time  employed  in  mill. 


Time  employed  in  mill. 


Total 

Less  than  3  months 

3  to  5  months 

6  to  11  months 

1  year 

2  years 

3  years 

4  years 

6  to  9  years 

10  to  19  years 

20  to  29  years 

30  to  39  years 

40  years  and  over... 


Total. 


35,029 


3,659 
2,865 
3,198 
4,861 
4,524 
2.939 
2,652 
5,782 
2,949 
1,196 
332 
72 


Male. 


19,347 


2,031 

1,629 

1,642 

2,417 

2,236 

1,431 

1,404 

3.347 

1,989 

895 

269 

57 


Female. 


Per  cent  distribution. 


15,682 


1,628 

1,236 

1,556 

2.444 

2,288 

1,508 

1,248 

2,435 

960 

301 

63 

15 


Total. 


100.0 


10.4 
8.2 
9.1 

13.9 

12.9 
8.4 
7.6 

16  5 
8.4 
3.4 
1.0 
0.2 


Male. 


100.0 


10.5 

8.4 

8.5 

12.5 

11.5 

7.4 

7.3 

17.3 

10.3 

4.6 

1.4 

0.3 


Female. 


100.0 


10.4 
7.9 
9.9 

15.6 

14.6 
9.6 
8.0 

15.5 
6.1 
1.9 
0.4 
0.1 


llU^ 


Of  the  35,029  operatives,  9,722,  or  27.7  per  cent,  had  been  employed 
less  than  one  year  in  the  mills  from  which  they  were  reported,  and  3,659 
of  these,  or  10.4  per  cent  of  the  total  number  of  employees,  had  been 
working  in  their  respective  mills  for  less  than  three  months,  while 
6,524,  or  18.6  per  cent  of  the  total  number,  had  been  working  there 
less  than  six  months. 

Seven-tenths — 24,698,  or  70.5  per  cent — of  the  employees  had  been 
at  work  in  the  mills  in  which  the  agents  of  the  Tariff  Board  found 
them  less  than  5  years;  5,782,  or  16.5  per  cent,  had  been  in  the  mills 
5  years  and  over  but  less  than  10  years;  and  4,549,  or  13  per  cent, 
had  been  in  the  mills  10  years  and  over. 


964 


BBPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


A  comparison  of  tho  time  of  employment  in  the  mill  with  the  length 
^^shrin"lh*^foltKb,ef  '"^  '^'  "P-'^"^-  -  *^«  -^^ 


Time  employed  in  mill. 

Total. 

Time  employed  in  industry. 

Less  than 
1  year. 

1  to  4          5  to  9 

years.         years. 

10  years 
ancfover. 

Total 

L6^  than  1  VAfir 

35,029 

5,821 

13.  aw 

6,926 

9.232 

1  to  4  years ].."  ] 

6  to  9  years " 

10  years  and  over 

9.722 

14,976 

5.782 

4,549 

5,821 

2,0^5 
11,045 

863 
1.926 
4,137 

1,033 

2,005 
1.645 
4,549 

PER  CENT  OF  TOTAL. 


Total 

Less  than  l  year 
1  to  4  years 
S  to  9  years 
10  years  and  over 


PER  CENT  DISTRIBUTION. 


Total. 


Less  than  1  year 

1  to  4  years 

5  to  9  years 

10  years  and  over 


100.0 


27.7 
42.8 
16.5 
13.0 


100.0 


100.0 


100.0 


15.4 
84.6 


100.0 


12.5 
27.8 
59.7 


100.0 


11.2 
21.7 
17.8 
49.3 


Since  many  of  the  operatives  had  been  employed  in  other  woolen 
and  worsted  mills  before  entering  the  nulls  in  which  thef  were  wo^^^ 
ing  at  the  time  the  agents  visited  those  mills,  the  proportTon  f^^^^^ 

SThe  c«Tnf  r^  *'^?r^  !f'^'"^  ^"  '^'  ^^^  «f  tir^eirthe  mi  Uhan 
m  the  case  of  tmie  m  the  mdustry. 

e  fiVi  *'*^.^'^22  wage  earners  working  less  than  one  year  in  the  mUl 
5^821  were  new  to  the  mdustry,  wSile  3.901  had  worked  in  oTher 
mills      Among  the  latter,  1,033  had  worked  in  the  Ldustr?  for  I 

Table  12  shows  the  facts  in  greater  detail 


EEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOAED  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


965 


Table  12.- 


■Numher  of  employees  in  woolen  and  worsted  mills  in  the  United  States,  by 
time  employed  in  mill  and  by  tim£  employed  in  industry. 


Total. 

Time  employed  in  industry. 

Time  employed 
in  mill. 

ii 

"5     . 

Sa 
o 

1-1 

a 

on 

i 

CO 

<3> 

• 

f-i 

• 

CO 
*^  0) 

o 
l-l 

00 

$9 

Total 

35,029 

2,019 

1,602 

2,110 

3,799 

3,877 

2,710 

2,664 

6.926 

4  Q1Q 

2,537   1,213 

563 

Less  than  3  months. 

3  to  5  months 

6  to  11  months 

3,659 
2,865 
3,198 
4,861 
4,524 
2,939 
2,652 
5,782 
2,949 
1,196 
332 
72 

2,019 

134 
1,558 

141 

128 

1,811 

246 

205 

290 

3,058 

181 
164 
199 
436 
2,897 

117 
124 
133 
234 
316 
1,786 

IM 
95 
116 
196 
241 
241 
1,«10 

302 
278 
283 
437 
501 
447 
541 
4,137 

225 
185 
181 
295 
341 
253 
279 
944 
2,216 

103 
77 
96 
138 
139 
142 
113 
427 
409 
893 

38 

38 

41 

50 

75 

54 

58 

191 

215 

195 

258 

IS 
13 
18 
17 
14 

1  year 

2  years 

3  years 

1ft 

4  years 



21 

6  to  9  years 

83 

10  to  19  years 

109 

20  to  29  years 



108 

30  to  39  years 

■ 

74 

40  years  and  over . . . 

..... 

72 



I 

1 

PER  CENT. 


Total 

Less  than  3  months 

3  to  5  months 

6  to  11  months 

1  year 

2years 

3  years 

4  years 

6  to  9  years 

10  to  19  years 

20  to  29  years 

30  to  39  years 

40  years  and  over.. 


100.0 


100.0 
100.0 
100.0 
100.0 
100.0 
100.0 
100.0 
100.0 
100.0 
100.0 
100.0 
100.0 


5.8 


4.8 


ao 


10.9     11.1 


55.2 


3.7 
51.4 


3.9 

4.5 

57.6 


6.7 

7.2 

9.1 

62.9 


4.9 
5.7 
6.2 
9.0 
61.0 


7.7 


3.2 
4.3 
4.2 
4.8 
7.0 
60.8 


7.6     19.8 


3.7 
3.3 
3.6 
4.0 
5.3 
8.2 
61.8 


8.3 

9.7 

8.8 

9.0 

11.1 

15.2 

20.4 

71.6 


I 


14.0 


7.2 


6.1 

6.4 

5.6 

6.1 

7.5 

8.6 

10.5 

16.-3 

75.1 


2.8 
2.7 
3.0 
2.8 
3.1 
4.8 
4.3 
7.4 
13.9 
74.7 


3.5 


1.0 
1.3 
1.3 
1.0 
1.7 
1.8 
2.2 
3.3 
7.3 
16.3 
77.7 


1.6 


0.5 
0.5 
0.6 
0.4 
0.3 
0.6 

as 

1.4 

3.7 

9.0 

22.3 

1004) 


In  the  greater  proportion  of  cases  the  length  of  service  in  the  mill 
is  identical  with  tlie  length  of  service  in  the  industry.  In  the  table 
the  figures  in  heavy  type  indicate  the  numbers  of  persons  who  had 
been  employed  in  the  same  mill  during  their  entire  service  in  the 
industry.  The  aggregate  of  these  numbers  is  22,375.  Consequently 
of  the  35,029  persons  engaged  in  work  in  the  woolen  industry,  22,375, 
or  63.9  per  cent,  had  worked  only  in  the  mills  from  which  they 
were  reported  respectively,  and  12,654,  or  36.1  per  cent,  had  worked 
in  other  mills  before  entering  the  mills  in  which  they  were  employed 
at  the  time  the  agents  visited  the  mills. 

While  in  most  of  the  mills  visited  there  seems  to  be  no  system  of 
advancement  from  one  class  of  work  to  another,  numerous  changes 
IQ  occupation  take  place. 

The  following  summary  table  shows  the  distribution  of  the  opera- 
tives according  to  the  time  they  had  been  employed  in  the  occupa- 
tions in  which  they  were  engaged  when  the  mills  were  canvassed: 

32080°— H.  Doc.  342,  62-2,  vol  2 23 


966 

Table  13 


EEPORT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


Time  employed  In  occupation. 


Total. 


Male. 


Female. 


Per  cent  distribution. 


Less  than  3  months 

3to  5  months... 

ftto  11  montlis. . ','.'.'.  

1  year ■ 

2  years ■ 

*  years. . . , 

4  years 

*  to  9  years 

10  to  19  years 

30  to  29  years 

30  to  39  years .*:: 

40  years  and  over. . .  


1 


8.764 
2,643 
3.016 
4,5;J5 
4,105 
2,656 
2,396 
6,68(» 
3,646 
1,807 
641 
234 


2,172 
1,502 

1.528 
2,212 
1.877 
1.259 
1.185 
'SA30 
2, 418 
1.327 
531 
206  , 


1.592 

10.7 

1.141 

7.5 

1,488 

8.6 

2,323 

13.0 

2,228 

11.7 

1,397 

7.6 

1.211 

6.8 

2.456 

16.0 

1,228 

10.4 

480 

5.2 

no 

1.8 

28 

0.7 

11.2 

7.8 
7.9 
11.4 
9.7 
6.5 
6.1 
16.2 
12.5 
6.9 
2.7 
1.1 


10.1 
7.3 
9.5 
14.8 
14.3 
8.9 
7.7 
15.7 
7.8 
3.1 
0.7 
0.2 


Over  one-fourth— 9,423,  or  26.8  oer  cfinf— nf  ih^  .•        ,     , 

been  at  work  in  their  rp^^no^f iV^    X      ^^?'^~-^i  the  operatives  had 

these,  3,764   or  10  7  ne^ctnt  Jfl  nT?^^^^^      ^^^  *^^^^  1  y^«^-     Of 
occunations  4^^^^^       monthltnd^^^^^^^^  f  f^^ 

About  two-thirds  of  aU  the  operatives— 03  1  ]  -j  nr  «>?  o  .. 
had  been  in  the  same  occunfltmr,=  l»l=  ♦i.'"  '  r  '    '  "^"^  ?<""  cent- 
percent,  had  been  rthe^eCVfrom'^.Tj  ^^'"^'   ^'5^^'  '"•  1« 
18.1  per  cent; had  remained^t  tJ™  .Tt^  a    /  ^^^^l  ^"^^  ^'^-'S,  or 

more^  Of  the  last-namXl^s  875  peL^Wd Cn  •"''  '°  ^'^"^  "^ 
taon  for  30  years  and  over,  an^  23\';ZZti  1%^^^  K^t 

is  S^ideS  "iL  co'S^cirthT^i.?  '%'^'"'-  ''^^^-'  ^he-  it 
length  of  service  Tn^hekSu^ri  ^^  .^  ^^^'^  '""^^^  "^^  »nd 
anltinxe  in  occupation  is'^S.  tSfolTow^Tabkf  *^'  ^  '^^ 


REPOKT  OF  TARIFF  BOAED  ON  SCHBI>XTLE  K. 


967 


Table  14.— N'amher,  per  cent  of  total,  and  per  cent  distribution  of  employees  in  woolen 
and  worsted  mills  in  the  United  States,  by  time  employed  in  mill  and  by  time  employed 
in  occupation. 


Total. 

Time  employed  in  occupation. 

Time  employed  in  mill. 

Less  than 
1  year. 

lto4 
years. 

5  to  9 
years. 

10  vears 
and  over. 

Total         

35,029 

9,423 

13.692 

5,586 

6,328 

Less  than  1  year 

1  to  4  vears 

9,722 

14.976 

5,782 

4,549 

7,560 
1,475 

269 
119 

876 

11,286 

1,120 

410 

529 

977 

3,458 

622 

757 
1  238 

5  to  9  years 

10  years  and  over 

935 
3,398 

PER  CENT  OF  TOTAL. 


Total. 


Less  than  1  year.. 

lto4  years 

ft  to  9  years 

10  years  and  over. 


100.0 


100.0 
100.0 
100.0 
100.0 


26. 8 


77.8 
9.8 
4.6 
2.6 


39.1 


9.0 
75.4 
19.4 

9.0 


16.0 


5.4 

6.5 

59.8 

13.7 


18.1 


7.8 

8.3 
16.2 
74.7 


PER  CENT  DISTRIBUTIOX. 


Total. 


Less  than  1  year.. 
1  to  4  years 

8  to  9  years 

10  years  and  over. 


100.0 


27.7 
42.8 
16.5 
13.0 


100.0 


80.2 

15.6 

2.9 

1.3 


100.0 


6.4 

82.4 

8.2 

3.0 


100.0 


9.5 
17.5 
61.9 
11.1 


100.0 


11.9 
19.6 
14.8 
53.7 


Of  the  9,722  persons  employed  for  less  than  a  year  in  the  mills  in 
which  they  were  working  at  the  time  the  mills  were  visited  by  the 
agents  of  the  board,  7,560,  or  77.8  per  cent,  had  been  engaged  for  less 
than  a  year  in  the  occupation  at  which  they  were  then  working,  while 
the  remainder — 2,162,  or  22.2  per  cent — had  been  engaged  in  the 
same  occupations  in  other  textile  mills  before  entering  the  mills  from 
which  they  were  reported.  Of  those  having  previous  experience  in 
the  occupation  over  one-third — 757,  or  7.8  per  cent  of  the  total  num- 
ber in  the  mill  less  than  1  year — had  been  doing  the  same  kind  of  work 
for  10  years  or  more. 

Of  the  14,976  employees  working  in  the  mill  over  one  year  but  less 
than  5  years,  2,215,  or  14.8  per  cent,  had  had  previous  experience  in 
the  same  occupation  in  other  mills,  while  1,475,  or  9.8  per  cent,  had 
been  engaged  in  other  work  in  the  same  mill  before  beginning  work  in 
the  specified  occupation. 


:||||||P 


§68 


BEPOBT  OP  TARIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


The  following  table  shows  these  data  in  greater  detail : 


AABLK    lo.- 


■^'^^^oS^Z^^  tro«/^ma/.  in  the  United  States,  5y 

ume  employed  m  mill  atid  by  time  employed  in  occupation. 


Time  emploved  in 
mill. " 


Time  employed  in  occupation. 


99 


§ 


3 

o 


09 

XJ 

IS 


m 

g 

5 

CO 


Total 

Less  than  3  months 

8  to  5  months 

fi  toll  months 

1  year 

2yeiups 

3years 

4  years 

fi  to  9  years 

10  to  19  years 

20  to  29  years 

30  to  39  years 

40  years  and  over.. 


35.029  [3,764   2,643 


3,659 
2.865 
3.198 
4,861 
4,524 
2,939 
2.  a52 
5.782 
2,949 
1,190 

72 


2,749 

200 

166 

223 

143 

83 

63 

103 

22 

9 

3 


58 
1,9S4 

111 

162 

104 

56 

49 

86 

27 

5 

1 


.a 

■*.> 

a 
o 


to 


3.016 


45 
55 
Sf  192 

2m 

176 

108 

69 

80 

30 

16 

5 

1 


4,535 


107 
63 
110 
8,82ff 

337 

186 

114 

212 

52 

25 

3 


4,105 


86 
75 
81 
160 
2,902 
253 
173 
263 
83 
25 
I 
3 


CO 


2,656 


78 
44 
62 
89 
129 

195 

303 

84 

20 

9 


o 


2.396 


75 

48 

47 

93 

90 

96 

1,6(M> 

342 

70 

25 

7 

3 


5,586   .3,646 


B 


S 

8 


1,807 


177 

156 

173 

128 

179 

144 

240 

193 

290 

214 

223 

162 

221 

152 

8,4S8 

517 

603 

I,«99 

93 

227 

22 

45 

4 

9 

87 

65 

66 

102 

94 

86 

80 

286 

228 

es2 

74 

7 


B 

CO 

641 


n 

3 


o 


§ 


29 

27 

31 

90 

37 

34 

23 

106 

102 

76 

1S4 

12 


234 


la 

3 
9 
4 

8 
9 
10 
25 
49 
43 
28 


PER  CENT 


Total 

Less  than  3  months. 

3  to  5  months 

6  to  11  months 

1  year 

2  years 

3  years 

4  years 

B  to9  years 

10  to  19  years 

20  to  29  vears 

30  to  ."^O  years 

40  years  and  over. . . 


100. 0     10.  7 


7. 5       8. 6 


13.0     11.7 


100.0 

7£>.l 

1.6 

100.0 

7.0 

m.% 

100.0 

5.2 

3.5 

100.0 

4.6 

3.3 

100.0 

3.2 

2.3 

100.0 

2.8 

1  9 

100.0 

2.4 

1.8 

100.0 

1.8 

1.5 

100.0 

0.7 

0.9 

100.0 

0.7 

0.4 

ino.o 

0.9 

0.3 

100.0 

1.2 

2.9 

2.4 

1.9 

2.2 

2.6 

4».6 

3.4 

2.5 

4.9 

88.4 

3.3 

3.9 

7.4 

84.1 

3.7 

6.3 

8.6 

2.6 

4.3 

6.5 

1.4 

3.7 

4.6 

1.0 

1.8 

2.8 

1.3 

2.1 

2.1 

1.5 

0.9 

0.3 

1.4 

4.2 

7.6 


6.8 


16.0 


10.4 


2.1 

2.1 

1.5 

1.7 

1.9 

1.5 

1.9 

1.9 

2.9 

2.0 

55.9 

3.3 

7.4 

56.8 

5.2 

5.9 

2.8 

2.4 

1.7 

2.1 

2.7 

2.1 
4.2 

4.8 
6.0 
5.6 
4.9 
64 
7.6 
8.4 
59.8 
17.1 
7.8 
6.6 
5.5 


4.3 

4.5 

4.5 

4.0 

4.7 

5.5 

5.7 

8.9 

57.8 

19.0 

13.6 

12.5 


5.2 


2.4 
2.3 
2.1 
2.1 
2.1 
2.9 
3.0 
4.9 
7.7 
52.8 
22.3 
9.7 


1.8 


0.8 

o.a 

0.9 

0.1 

1.0 

0.3 

0.6 

0.1 

0.8 

0.2 

1.2 

0.3 

0.9 

0.4 

1.8 

0.5 

3.5 

1.7 

6.4 

3.6 

40.4 

8.4 

16.7 

45.S 

,  In  the  greater  proportion  of  cases  the  length  of  service  in  the  miU 
18  identical  with  tfie  fength  of  semee  in  the  occupation.  li  the  table 
the  figures  m  heaw  type  indicate  the  number  of  pereons  who  had 
been  emploved  m  the  same  occupation  during  the  entire  time  of  the^ 
service  m  tlie  mills  in  which  they  were  worling.     The  a^ro^ate  o^ 

ees,  22,252,  or  63.5  per  cent,  had  been  m  the  same  occupation  during 
nl%  T^r  ^"^"^^  i«  the  mills  in  which  they  were  enumerated.  ^ 
K'htyWn"!lT^^''^M  "^  !k^  occupation  less  than  three  months, 
2  749  had  been  m  the  mdl  less  than  three  months  and  1,015  had  been 

J^or^t;"?'  i^T  ""  ^*'"^'^^x!^t7o-f  ^^^  ^'-^"^  ^^'^^  to  five  months,  166 

Pr^SnvL  Tn^.r^''  '^^'^  ^''  f^  K^  ^^^''  ^^^'  ^  the  2,643  pereons 
employed  m  the  occupation  from  three  to  ^re  months,  1,984  had  been 
in  the  mill  and  in  the  occupation  that  length  of  time  58  had  l^en  iS 
the  occupation  for  that  period  but  had  been  employed  in  somrothS 
mills  before  entering  the  mills  frem  which  they  were  rl^rl^?™^^ 

wlf ^irV  w""^*'*"^"^  ^^^  ^.^"^  ^^^  ^  the  mills  frem  which  t^ey 
were  reported  for  longer  periods  than  the  period  of  their  service  Z 

ial^f  ^r  /^"^  ^^^  ^f^  engaged  in  other  work  in  the  mills  for  a 
part  of  the  time.    When  the  numbers  for  each  period  of  employment 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOARD  O:^   SCHEDULE  K, 


960 


are  considered  in  this  way  it  is  seen  that  over  one-sixth— 6,124,  or  17.5 
per  cent— had  been  employed  in  other  occupations  during  a  portion 
of  their  service  in  the  mills  in  which  they  were  working  and  about  one- 
£fj^h— 6  653,  or  19  per  cent — had  been  engaged  in  similar  work  in 
other  textile  mills  before  entering  the  mills  from  which  they  were 

The  following  table  shows  the  operatives,  distributed  according  to 
time  in  the  industry  and  time  in  the  occupation: 

T\BLE  16  —Number,  per  cent  of  total,  and  per  cent  distribution  of  employees  in  woolen 
and  worsted  mills  in  the  United  States,  by  time  employed  in  industry  and  by  time  employed 
in  occupation. 


Time  employed  in  industry. 


Total. 


Less  than  1  year 

1  to  4  years 

6  to  9  years 

10  years  and  over 


Total. 


35,029 


5,821 

13,050 

6,926 

9,232 


Time  employed  in  occupation. 


Less  than 
1  year. 


lto4 
years. 


5to9 
years. 


9,423 


13,692  5,586 


5.651 

2,456 

755 

561 


71 

38 

10.257 

147 

2,029 

3,950 

1,335 

1,451 

10  years 
and  over. 


6,328 


61 
190 
192 

5,885 


PER  CENT  OF  TOTAL. 


Total 

Less  than  1 
1  to  4  years 
6  to  9  years 


100.0 

26.8 

39.1 

16.0 

18.1 

vpftr 

100.0 
100.0 
100.0 
100.0 

97.1 

18.8 

10.9 

6.1 

1.2 
78.6 
29.3 
14.5 

0.7 

1.1 

57.0 

15.7 

LO 

L5 



2.8 

d  over             

63.7 

TER  CENT   DISTRIBUTION. 


Total 

Less  than  1 
1  to  4  years 
6  to  9  years 


100.0 

100.0 

100.0 

100.0 

100.0 

vear             

16.6 
37.3 
19.8 
26.3 

60.0 

26.1 

8.0 

5.9 

0.5 
74.9 
14.8 

9.8 

0.7 

2.6 

70.7 

26.0 

LO 

3.0 

3.0 

fi  ovpr         --- 

93.0 

Of  the  5,821  wage  earners  in  the  industry  less  than  one  year,  5,651, 
or  97.1  per  cent,  had  been  engaged  less  than  a  year  in  the  specified 
occupation  in  the  woolen  industry,  and  170,  or  2.9  per  cent,  had  been 
engaged  in  the  same  occupation  in  some  other  textile  industry. 

Of  the  13,050  operatives  who  had  worked  in  the  industry  from  one 
to  four  years,  10,257,  or  78.6  per  cent,  had  been  in  the  same  occupa- 
tion in  the  woolen  industry  for  that  length  of  time;  2,456,  or  18.8 
per  cent,  had  been  in  some  other  occupation  in  the  same  mill  for  a 
portion  of  the  time;  and  337,  or  2.6  per  cent,  had  been  engaged  in 
the  occupation  in  some  other  textile  industry  before  entering  the 
service  of  the  woolen  and  worsted  mills. 

Three-fifths— 5,651,  or  60  per  cent— of  the  operatives  in  one  occu- 
pation less  than  a  year  had  been  in  the  industry  less  than  a  year  also. 
The  remainder,  3,772,  or  40  per  cent,  had  been  in  the  industry  for 
longer  periods,  being  engaged  in  other  work  for  a  portion  of  the  time. 


HTlJ 


B£POBT  OF   TABIFF  BOABD   ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


EEPORT   OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


971 


More  detailed  statistics  are  given  in  the  following  table : 

Table  17.— Nwnber  of  em]^htjees  in  woolm  and  worsted  mills  in  the  United  States,  by 
time  employed  in  industry  and  by  titne  employed  in  occupation. 


Time  employed  in 
industry. 


o 


Total 35,029 


Less  than  3  months. 

3  to  5  months 

6  to  11  montlu 

1  year 

2  years 

3years 

4years 

5to9years 

10  to  19  years 

20  to  29  years 

30  to  .39  years 

40  years  and  orer... 


2,019 
l.Wi 
2.110 
3,799 
3,877 
2,710 
2,664 
6,926 
4.919 
2.537 
1,213 
5(>3 


Time  employed  in  occupation. 


eo 


Co  r^ 

2 


a 
o 

a 

5 

CO 


3,764 


t,M2 

182 

221 

315 

263 

145 

147 

319 

144 

67 

18 

11 


2.643 


14 

182 

253 

202 

125 

94 

201 

78 

28 

9 

5 


§ 


3 

O 


>* 

w 


3,016 


5 

9 

1,614 

339 

281 

171 

121 

235 

115 

58 

25 

13 


4.535 


6 
9 
5 
2,761 

516 

296 

198 

434 

171 

90 

34 

15 


4,105 


7 
4 

7 
18 
2,515 

359 

302 

525 

239 

94 

27 

8 


CO 


B 


2,650 


11 
3 
9 
6 
7 

1,610 

286 

486 

215 

79 

27 

17 


2,396 


5 

3 

2 

12 

10 

18 

1,443 

584 

215 

61 

28 

15 


5,586 


10 
11 
17 
36 
38 
39 
34 
3,fNiO 
1,067 
259 
86 
39 


§ 


s 

o 


s 


3,646 


13 
12 
10 
36 
20 
26 
25 
UY7 
2,&48 
582 
198 
69 


1,807 


4 

4 

7 

13 

16 

11 

12 

54 

85 

1,188 

341 

77 


« 
S 


641 


-3 

C 

a 


> 

o 


234 


9 

5 

9 

2 

25 

31 

31 

404 

117 


1 
1 
4 
1 


6 
11 

15 
16 

r$7 


PER  CENT. 


Total 

Less  than  3  months 

3  to  5  months. 

6  to  11  months 

lyear 

2  years 

3  years 

4years 

5  to  9  years 

10  to  19  years 

20  to  29  years 

30  to  39  years 

40  years  and  orer.. 


loao 

10.7 

7.5 

8.6 

13.0 

11.7 

7.6 

6.8 

10.0 

10.4 

5.2 

1.8 

loao 

96.2 

.7 

.3 

.3 

.3 

.5 

.3 

.5 

.6 

.2 

100.0 

10.8 

85.8 

.6 

.5 

.2 

.2 

.2 

.7 

.7 

.2 

.2 

100.0 

ia5 

8.6 

77.9 

.2 

.3 

.4 

.1 

.8 

.5 

•  3 

.3 

100.0 

8.3 

6.7 

8.9 

72.7 

.5 

.2 

.3 

.9 

1.0 

.3 

.2 

100.0 

6.8 

5.2 

7.2 

13.3 

•4.9 

.2 

.3 

1.0 

.5 

.4 

.1 

100.0 

6.4 

4.6 

6.3 

10.9 

13.3 

55.3 

.7 

1.4 

1.0 

.4 

.3 

100.0 

6.5 

3.5 

46 

7.4 

11.3 

10.7 

54.8 

1.3 

.9 

.5 

.1 

100.0 

4.6 

2.9 

3.4 

6.3 

7.6 

7.0 

8.4 

67.0 

1.5 

.8 

.4 

100.0 

2.9 

l.G 

2.3 

3.5 

4.9 

4.4 

4.4 

21.7 

51.8 

1.7 

.6 

100.0 

2.2 

1.1 

2.3 

3.6 

3.7 

3.1 

2.4 

10.2 

23.0 

46.6 

1.2 

loao 

1.5 

.8 

2.1 

2.8 

2.2 

2.2 

2.3 

7.1 

16.3 

28.1 

83.3 

100.0 

2.0 

.9 

2.3 

2.7 

1.4 

3.0 

2.7 

0.8 

12.2 

13.7 

20.  S 

0.7 
.1 


.1 

0) 
'".'i 

.2 

.6 

1.3 

31.4 


»  Less  than  one-tenth  of  I  per  cent. 

Over  three-fifths— 21 ,529,  the  aggregate  of  the  figures  in  heavy 
type,  or  61.5  per  cent — of  the  persons  engaged  m  the  woolen 
industry  worked  in  the  same  occupation  during  the  entire  time 
of  their  work  in  the  mills,  and  over  one- third— 12,513,  or  35.7 
per  cent — had  started  in  same  other  occupation  than  the  one  in 
which  they  were  engaged  at  the  time  they  were  reported.  Tlie 
remainder — 987,  or  2.8  per  cent — had  been  engaged  in  similar  work  in 
some  other  textile  industry,  and  consequently  were  more  or  less  expe- 
rienced in  the  line  of  work  before  they  entered  the  woolen  and  worsted 
mills.  For  example,  some  of  these  employees  had  been  weavers  in 
cotton  or  silk  mills  before  becoming  weavers  in  woolen  mills. 

Table  5  shows  tliat  2,967  operatives  had  been  engaged  in  other 
textile  industries  before  they  entered  into  the  work  of  the  woolen  and 
worsted  mills.  Of  that  number,  only  987  persons,  or  about  one- 
third  of  the  operatives,  had  had  training  in  the  kind  of  work  they 
were  doing  in  the  woolen  and  worsted  milk. 


COUNTRY   OP  BIRTH   AND  LENGTH   OF  SERVICE. 

A  study  of  the  length  of  service  in  the  industry  in  connection  with 
the  nationality  of  the  operatives  reveals  some  interesting  facts.  The 
following  summary  tables  show  the  proportions  of  native  and  foreign 
bom  distributed  according  to  the  duration  of  their  employment  in  the 
industry,  in  the  mill,  and  in  the  occupation  in  which  they  were 
employed  at  the  time  the  mills  were  canvassed: 

Table  18. — Number  of  employees  in  woolen  and  worsted  mills  in  the  United  States,  by 

country  of  birth  and  by  time  in  industry. 


Total 

niun- 

ber. 

Per 
cent 
of 
total 
num- 
ber. 

Time  employed  in  industry. 

Less  than  1 
year. 

1  to  4  years. 

5  to  9  years. 

10  years  and 
over. 

Country  of  birth. 

Num- 
ber. 

Per 
cent 
of 
total 
num- 
ber. 

Num- 
ber. 

Per 
cent 
of 
total 
num- 
ber. 

Num- 
ber. 

Per 

cent 
of 
total 
num- 
ber. 

Num- 
ber. 

Pe? 

cent 
of 
total 
num- 
ber. 

Total 

35,029 

100.0 

5,821 

1G.6 

13,050 

37.3 

6,926 

19.8 

9,232 

2a3 

United  States 

12,799 
22,230 

36.5 
63.5 

2,190 
3.G31 

6.2 
10.4 

4,337 

8,713 

12.4 
24.9 

2,650 
4,276 

7.6 
12.2 

3,622 
5,610 

10.3 

Foreign  countrica 

16.0 

Italy    and    ea-stern    and 

southesvstern  Europe 

Other  foreign  countries 

12.297 
9,933 

35.1 
28.4 

2,690 
941 

7.7 
2.7 

6,304 
2,409 

18.0 
6.8 

2.281 
1,995 

6.5 
5.7 

1,022 

4,588 

2.9 
13.  L 

Table  19. — Number  of  employees  in  woolen  and  worsted  mills  in  the  United  States,  by 

country  of  birth  and  by  time  in  mill. 


, 


r 


Total 
num- 
ber. 

Per 

cent 
of 
total 
num- 
ber. 

Time  employed  in  mill. 

Lefts  than  1 
year. 

1  to  4  years. 

5  to  9  years. 

10  years  and 
over. 

Country  of  birth. 

Num- 
ber. 

Per 
cent 
of 
total 
num- 
ber. 

Nnm- 
ber. 

Per 
cent 
of 
total 
num- 
ber. 

Num- 
ber. 

Per 

cent 

of 

total 
num- 
ber. 

Nu^□^- 
ber. 

Per 
cent 
of 
total 
num- 
ber. 

Total 

35,029 

100.0 

9,722 

27.7 

14,976 

42.8 

5.782 

16.5 

4.549 

1S.fl 

United  States 

12, 799 
22.230 

36.5 
63.5 

3,429 
6.29a 

9.8 
17.9 

4,968 
10,008 

14.2 
28.6 

2,328 
8,454 

6.6 
9.9 

2.074 
2.475 

.■>  Q 

Foreign  countries 

7  1 

Italy    and    eastern    and 

southeastern  Europe 

Other  foreign  countries 

12.297 
9,933 

35.1 
28.4 

4,117 
2,176 

11.7 
6.2 

6.335 
3,673 

18.1 
10.5 

1.384 
2,070 

3.9 
5.9 

461 
2,014 

1.3 
5.8 

Table  21.- 


BEPOET  OF  TABIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE   K. 

-Xumber  of  employees  in  imolen  and  worsted  mills  in  the  United  States,  hy 
country  of  birth  and  by  time  in  occupation. 


Total 
num- 
ber. 

Per 

cent 

of 

total 
num- 
ber. 

Time  employed  in  occupation. 

Country  of  birth. 

Less  than  1 
year. 

1  to  4  years. 

5  to  9  years. 

10  years  and 
over. 

Num- 
ber. 

Per 
cent 
of 
total 
num- 
ber. 

Num- 
ber. 

Per 

cent 
of 
total 
num- 
ber. 

Num- 
ber. 

Per 

cent 

of 

totAl 

num- 
ber. 

Num- 
ber. 

Per 

cent 

of 

total 

num> 

ber. 

Total 

35,029 

100.0 

9,423 

26.8 

13,692 

39.1 

5,586 

16.0 

6,328 

18.1 

Vnited  States 

12.799 
22,230 

36.6 
63.5 

3.486 
5.937 

10.0 
16.8 

4,633 

9,059 

13.2 
25.9 

2,216 
3,370 

6.3 
9.6 

2,464 
3,864 

7.0 

11.1 

Foreign  countries 

Italy    and    eastern    and 

,        southeastern  Europe  .. . . 
Other  foreign  countries. . . . 

12,297 
9,933 

35.1 
28.4 

4.104 
1,833 

11.6 
5.2 

6,049 
3,010 

17.3 
8.6 

1,510 
1,860 

4.3 
5.3 

634 
3,230 

1.9 
9.2 

Over  one-third — 12,297,  or  35.1  per  cent — of  the  operatives  in  the 
woolen  industry  were  natives  of  Italy  and  eastern  and  southeastern 
Europe.  These  people  are  among  tlie  later  immigrants  as  a  rule. 
The  proportions  of  these  operatives  in  the  longer  periods  of  service 
are  comparatively  small  and  the  proportions  in  the  woolen  industry 
for  the  snorter  periods — less  than  1  year,  1  year,  2  years,  3  years,  and 
4  years— are  comparatively  large,  the  latter  being  larger  than  the 
corresponding  proportions  for  any  other  country.  These  facts  are 
shown  in  Table  21  presenting  the  number  and  percentage  of  opera- 
tives of  the  leading  nationalities  by  the  duration  of  their  employment. 

Table  21. — Number  and  percentage  of  employees  in  woolen  and  icorsted  mills  in  the 
United  States,  by  country  of  birth  ancl  by  time  employed  in  industry. 


Country  of  birth. 


Total. 


Total ....*. 

United  States 

Canada 

England 

France 

Germany 

Ireland,  Scotland,  and  Wales 

Italy 

Norway,  Sweden,  and  Demnarlt 

Eastern  and  southeastern  Europe 

Other  countries 


35,029 


Time  employed  in  industry. 


Less 

than 
1  year. 


5.821 


1  year.  '  2  years. 


3,799 


2,102 
2,799 

398 
1,474 
1,628 
4,097 

140 
8,200 
1,392 


2,190 
250 
211 
23 
110 
113 
943 
16 

1,747 
218 


1,292 

183 

125 

17 

100 

67 

537 

6 

1,341 

131 


3,877 


1,216 

178 

151 

24 

87 

73 

546 
g 

1,420 
174 


3  years. 


2,710 


998 

133 

134 

16 

66 

69 

358 

II 

SOW 

116 


4  years. 


2,664 


831 

137 

120 

21 

53 

66 

518 

7 

775 

136 


5  to  9 
years. 


6,926 


2,650 
533 
451 
82 
217 
268 
816 
25 

1,465 
419 


10 

years 
and 
over. 


9,232 


3,622 
688 

1,607 
215 
841 
972 
379 
67 
643 
198 


PER  CENT. 


Total 

United  States 

Canada 

England 

France 

Germany 

Ireland,  Scotland,  and  Wales 

Italy... 

Norway,  Sweden,  and  Denmark . . 
Eastern  and  southeastern  Europe. 
Other  countries 


100.0 

16.6 

10.9 

11.1 

7.7 

7.6 

19.8 

100.0 

17.1 

10.1 

9.5 

7.8 

6.6 

20.7 

100.0 

11.9 

8.7 

8.5 

6.3 

6.6 

25.4 

100.0 

7.5 

4.5 

5.4 

4.8 

4.3 

16.1 

100.0 

5.8 

4.3 

6.0 

4.0 

6.3 

20.6 

100.0 

7.5 

6.8 

5.9 

4.5 

3.6 

14.7 

100.0 

6.9 

4.1 

4.5 

4.2 

4.1 

16.6 

100.0 

23.0 

13.1 

13.3 

8.7 

12.7 

19.9 

100.0 

11.4 

4.3 

6.7 

7.8 

5.0 

17.9 

100.0 

21.3 

16.3 

17.3 

9.9 

9.5 

17.9 

100.0 

15.6 

9.4 

12.6 

8.3 

9.8 

30.1 

26.3 

28.3 
32.7 
67.4 
64.0 
67.0 
59.7 

9.3 
47.9 

7.8 
14.3 


■ti^cai   Laboratory 
Keot   Hall 

BEPORT   OF   TARIFF  BOARD   ON   SCHEDULE  *Tfif"™*'*^   ^J^^Slty 

New  Vork 

Over  one- half  of  aU  the  employees  who  were  natives  of  Great 
Britain,  Ireland,  Germany,  and  France  had  been  engaged  in  the 
woolen  and  worsted  industry  for  at  least  10  years.  Over  one-half  of 
the  Canadians  and  Scandinavians  and  almost  one-half  of  the  native 
born  had  served  at  least  5  years. 

Table  22. — Number  and  percentage  of  employees  in  woolen  and  worsted  mills  in  the 
United  States,  by  country  of  birth  and  by  time  employed  in  mill. 


Total. 

Time  en 

1  ployed  1 

in  mill. 

Country  of  birth. 

Less 

than 

1  year. 

1  year. 

2  years. 

3  years. 

4  years. 

5to9 
years. 

10 

years 

and 

over. 

Total 

35,029 

9,722 

4,861 

4,524 

2,939 

2,052 

5,782 

4,540 

United  states 

12,799 
2,102 
2,799 
398 
1,474 
1,628 
4,097 
140 
8,200 
1,392 

3.429 
478 
607 
115 
261 
264 

1,464 
25 

2,653 
426 

1,582 
229 
291 
59 
188 
143 
614 
12 

1,557 
186 

1,447 
231 
279 
66 
162 
143 
575 
10 

1,4.35 
176 

1,092 
191 
205 

43 
106 
101 
349 

10 
728 
114 

847 

127 

234 

39 

89 

116 

433 

11 

644 

112 

2,328 
498 
562 

63 
282 
329 
510 

28 
874 
308 

2,074 

Canada 

348 

England 

621 

France 

13 

Germany 

386 

Ireland, 'Scotland,  and  Wales 

532 

Italy 

152 

Norway,  Sweden,  and  Denmark 

Eastern  and  southeastern  Europe. .: . . . 
Othpr  fioimtnVs . . . 

44 

309 
70 

PER  CENT. 


Total 

United  States 

Canada 

England 

France 

Germany 

Ireland,  Scotland,  and  Wales 

Italy 

Norway,  Sweden,  and  Denmark. 
Eastern  and  southeastern  Europ. 
Other  countries 


109.0 

27.7 

13.9 

12.9 

8.4 

7.6 

16.5 

100.0 

26.8 

12.4 

11.3 

8.5 

6.6 

18.2 

100.0 

22.7 

10.9 

11.0 

9.1 

6.0 

23.7 

100.0 

21.7 

10.4 

10.0 

7.3 

8.3 

20.1 

100.0 

28.9 

14.8 

16.6 

10.8 

9.8 

15.8 

100.0 

17.7 

12.8 

11.0 

7.2 

6.0 

19.1 

100.0 

16.2 

8.8 

8.8 

6.2 

7.1 

20.2 

100.0 

35.7 

15.0 

14.0 

8.5 

10.6 

12.5 

100.0 

17.9 

8.6 

7.1 

7.1 

7.9 

20.0 

100.0 

32.3 

19.0 

17.5 

8.9 

7-8 

10.7 

100.0 

30.6 

1.3.4 

12.6 

8.2 

8.1 

22.1 

13.0 

10.2 
16.6 
22.2 

3.3 
26.2 
32.7 

3.7 
31.4 

3.8 

5.0 


The  proportions  in  their  respective  mills  for  at  least  10  years  were 
larger  than  the  average  in  the  case  of  Ireland,  Scotland,  and  Wales; 
Norway,  Sweden,  and  Denmark;  Germany;  England;  Canada;  and  the 
United  States. 


** 


i 


3r  I 'at 


BEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


Table  23. — Number  and  percentage  of  employees  in  woolen  and  worsted  mills  in  the 
United  States,  %  country  of  birth  anrf  by  time  employed  in  occupation . 


Country  of  blrtli. 


Total 

United  States 

Canada 

England 

France 

Germany 

Ireland,  Scotland,  and  Wales 

Italy 

Norwny,  Sweden,  and  Denmark 

Eastern  and  southeastern  Europe 

Other  countries 


Total. 


a5,029 


Time  employed  in  occupation. 


Less 
than  1 
year. 


9,423 


12,799 
2, 102 
2,799 

398 
1,474 
1,028 
4,097 

140 
8,200 
1,392 


1  year. 


4,535 


3,486 

1,514 

443 

220 

635 

235 

46 

23 

187 

168 

242 

116 

l,5t.2 

580 

24 

12 

2,542 

1,492 

356 

156 

2  years. 


4,105 


1,3.59 
192 
205 
23 
124 
117 
525 
8 

1,389 
163 


3  years.  4  years 


2,656 


962 

127 

166 

26 

95 

99 

354 

13 

ms 

119 


2,396 


798 

123 

160 

17 

63 

106 

374 

8 

630 

117 


5  to  9 
years. 


5,586 


2,216 

469 

448 

65 

265 

244 

487 

24 

1,023 


10 

years 

and 

over. 


6,328 


2,464 
519 

1,050 
198 
572 
704 
205 
51 
429 
136 


PER  CENT. 


Total. 


100.0 


26.8 


United  States loo.  0 

Canada j    loo.  o 

100.0 
100.0 
100.0 
100.0 
100.0 
100.0 
100.0 
100.0 


England 

France 

Germany 

Ireland.'Scotland,  and  Wales 

Italy 

Norway,  Sweden,  and  Denmark 

Eastern  and  southeastern  Europe 

Other  coimtries 


27.3 
21.1 
19.1 
11.6 
12.7 
14.9 
38.1 
17.2 
31.0 
2.5.0 


13.0 


11.7 


11.8 

ia9 

&4 
5.8 

11.4 

7.1 

14  4 

18.2 
11.2 


40.6 
9.1 
7.3 
5.8 
8.4 
7.2 

12.8 
5.7 

1(1.9 

11.7 


7.6 


6.8 


7.5 
6.0 
6.0 
6.5 
6.4 
6.1 
8.7 
9.3 
8.5 
8.5 


6.2 
5.9 
5.7 
4.3 
4.3 
6.5 
9.1 
5.7 
7.7 
8.4 


16.0 


17.3 
22.3 
16. 0 
16.3 
18.0 
15.0 
11.9 
17.2 
12.5 
24:8 


18.1 


19.3 

24  7 

37.5 

49.7 

38.8 

43.2 

5.0 

36.4 

5.2 

9.8 


Almost  one-half--198,  or  40.7  per  cent— of  the  French  operatives 
had  been  engaged  in  the  same  occupation  for  at  least  10  years.  More 
than  one-third  of  the  natives  of  Great  Britain  and  Ireland,  of  the 
Germans,  and  of  the  Scandinavians  had  remained  in  their  respective 
occupations  for  10  yeai-s  or  longer. 

On  tjie  other  hand,  over  one-third  of  the  Italians  and  almost  one- 
third  of  the  operatives  from  eastern  and  southeastern  Europe  had  been 
engaged  m  their  respective  occupations  for  less  than  a  year. 


SEX  AND  LENGTH  OF  SERVICE. 


The  following  table  is  a  summary  showing  the  number  and  per- 
centage of  males  and  of  females  employed  in  the  specified  mills,  bv 
the  duration  of  their  employment  in  the  mill,  in  the  occupation,  and 
m  the  mdustry: 


/ 


BEPOET  OF  TAKIFF  BOABD  OIT  SCHEDULE  K. 


975 


TA.BLE  24. — Number^  per  cent  distribution^  and  per  cent  of  total  for  employees  in  ivoolen 
and  worsted  mills  in  the  United  States,  by  sex  and  by  time  in  mill,  time  m  occupation^ 
and  time  in  industry. 


Terlod. 


Total 35,029 


By  time  in  milL 


By  time  in  occupa- 
tion. 


Total. 


Less  than  1  year.. 

1  to  4  years 

fi  to  9  years 

10  years  and  over. 


9,722 
14,976 

5,782 
4,549 


Males. 


19.347 


5,302 
7,488 
3,347 
3,210 


Fe- 
males. 


15,682 


4,420 
7,488 
2,435 
1,339 


Total. 


35,029 


9,423 

13,692 

5,586 

6,328 


Males. 


19,347 


5,202 
6,533 
3,130 

4,482 


Fe- 
males. 


By  time  in  industry. 


Total. 


Males. 


15,682  35,029   19,347 


Fe- 
males. 


15,682 


4,221  I  5,821 
7,159  13,050 
2,4.=V6  I  6,926 


3,030 
6,005 
3,679 


1,846     9,232     6,633 


2,791 
7,045 
3,247 
2,599 


PER  CENT  DISTRIBUTION. 


Total 

Less  than  1  year. 

1  to  4  years 

6  to  9  years 

10  years  and  over 


100.0 


27.7 
42.8 
16.5 
13.0 


100.0 


27.4 
38.7 
17.3 
16.6 


100.0 


100.0 


100.0 


28.2 

47.8 

15.5 

8.5 


26.8 
39.1 
16.0 
18.1 


26.9 
33.8 
16.2 
23.1 


100.0     100.0 


100.0 


26.9 
45.6 
15.7 
11.8 


16.6 
37.3 
19.8 
26.3 


15.7 
31.0 
19.0 
343 


100.0 


17.8 
44.9 
20.7 
16.8 


PER  CENT  OP  TOTAL. 


Total 

Less  than  1  year. 

1  to  4  years 

5  to  9  years 

10  years  and  over 


100.0 


100.0 
100.0 
100.0 
100.0 


55.2 


44.8 


52.1 
46.0 
53.1 
71.8 


47.9 
54.0 
46.9 

28.2 


100.0 


100.0 
100.0 
100.0 
100.0 


55.2 


545 
50.0 

57.9 
70.6 


44.8 


45.5 
50.0 
42.1 
29.4 


100.0 


100.0 
100.0 
100.0 
100.0 


55.2 


443 


55.2 
47.7 
56.0 
70.8 


448 
52.3 

44.0 
29.2 


The  proportion  of  females  was  greater  in  the  shorter  periods  of 
employment  in  the  mill,  in  the  occupation,  and  in  the  industry.  For 
the  period  of  less  than  five  years  the  percentages  for  females  were  76 
for  time  in  the  mill,  72.5  for  time  in  the  occupation,  and  62.7  for  time 
in  the  industir,  while  the  corresponding  percentages  for  males  were 
66.1,  60.7,  and  46.7. 

In  the  case  of  employment  in  the  occupation  for  a  period  less  than 
a  year  the  proportion  of  females  was  equal  to  that  of  males  (26.9  per 
cent). 

The  proportion  of  males  was  about  twice  as  large  for  the  period  of 
service  lasting  10  years  or  more,  the  percentages  being  16.6  for  time 
in  the  mill,  23.1  for  time  in  the  occupation,  and  34.3  for  time  in  the 
industry,  while  the  corresponding  percentages  for  females  were  8.5 
11.8,  and  16.6.  The  total  number  of  operatives  serving  for  at  least 
10  years  was  4,549  for  time  in  the  mill,  6,328  for  time  in  the  occupa- 
tion, and  9,232  for  time  in  the  industry. 

The  fact  that  the  females  usually  leave  the  industry  when  they 
marry  may  account  in  part  for  the  difference  in  the  length  of  their 
service  as  compared  with  that  of  the  males. 

Another  cause  contributmg  to  this  difference  may  be  the  fact 
that  frequently  the  men  of  the  family  immigrated  to  this  country 
before  the  women  came,  and  consequently  had  an  earher  start  in  the 
industry. 

The  following  tables  show  for  each  sex  the  more  detailed  data  con- 
cerning the  nationahty  of  operatives  and  the  length  of  their  service 


976 


BEPOET  OF  TAEIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


BEPORT  OF  TAEIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


977 


in  the  industry,  in  the  mill,  and  in  the  occupation  in  which  they  were 
employed  at  the  time  the  agents  of  the  board  visited  the  mills  in 
which  they  were  working: 

Table  2b.— Number  of  employees  in  woolen  and  worsted  mills  in  the  United  States,  by 
MX  and  country  of  birth  and  by  time  employed  in  industry. 


Total. 

1 

Time  employed  in  industry. 

Sex  and  country  of  birth. 

^- - - 

Less 
thanl 
year. 

1  year. 

2  years. 

3  years 

4  years 

6  to  9 
'   years. 

10 
years 
and 
over. 

Total 

35,029 

6,821 

3,799 

3,877 

2,710 

2,664 

6,926 

9,232 

Male 

19,347 
15,682 

3,030 
2.791 

1,771 
2,028 

1,771 

2,106 

1,191 

1.519 

1,272 
1.392 

3.679 
3,247 

6,633 

Female 

United  States 

12,799 

2,190 

1.292 

1,216 

CrlfO 

831 

2,650 

3,622 

Male 

6.140 
6,659 

1.039 
1.151 

539 
753 

493 
723 

347 
651 

299 
632 

1,087 
1,563 

2,336 
1,286 

Female 

Canada 

2,102 

250 

183 

178 

133 

137 

633 

688 

Male 

1,178 
924 

131 
119 

101 

82 

87 
91 

59 
74 

68 
69 

268 
266 

464 
224 

Female 

England 

2,799 

211 

125 

151 

134 

120 

451 

1,607 

Male 

1.980 
819 

129 
82 

69 
56 

85 
66 

81 
53 

63 

67 

286 
165 

1,267 
340 

Female 

France 

398 

23 

17 

24 

16 

21 

82 

215 

Mate 

250 
148 

16 
7 

7 
10 

11 
13 

9 

7 

7 
14 

38 
44 

162 
53 

Female 

Germany 

1,474 

110 

100 

87 

66 

53 

217 

841 

Male 

1.147 
327 

63 
47 

67 
33 

54 
33 

41 
26 

36 
17 

160 
67 

736 
106 

Female 

Ireland,  Scotland,  and  Wales 

1,628 

113 

67 

73 

69 

66 

268 

972 

Male 

1,031 
507 

73 
40 

40 
27 

48 
25 

36 
33 

41 
25 

148 
120 

645 
327 

Female 

Italy 

4,097 

943 

537 

546 

358  1 

518 

816 

379 

Male 

2.486 
1,611 

594 
349 

305 
232 

307 
239 

173 
186 

264 
254 

527 
289 

316 
63 

Female 

Norway,  Sweden,  and  Denmark 

140 

16 

6 

8| 

11 

7 

26 

67 

Male , 

74 
66 

5 
11 

1 
5 

4 
4 

2 
9 

3 
4 

13 
12 

46 
21 

Female 

Eastern  and  southeastern  Europe 

8,200 

1,747 

1.341 

1,420 

809 

775 

1,465 

643 

Male 

4,170 
4,030 

834 
913 

550 
791 

580 
840 

372 
437 

411 
364 

910 
665 

513 
130 

Female 

Other  countries 

1,392 

218 

131 

174 

116 

136 

419 

198 

Male 

891 
501 

146 
72 

92 
39 

102 
72 

71 
45 

80 
56 

262 
167 

148 
50 

Female 

, 


Table  26.- 


-  Number  of  employees  in  woolen  and  worsted  mills  in  the  United  States ,  by 
sex  and  country  of  birth  and  by  time  employed  in  mill. 


Total. 

Time  employed 

in  mill. 

Sex  and  country  of  birth. 

Lpas 

than  1 

year. 

1  year. 

2  years. 

3  years 

4  years 

5  to  9 

years. 

10 

years 

and 

over. 

Total 

35,029 

9,722 

4,861 

4,524 

2,9,19 

2,652 

5,782 

4j  O'SqI 

Male 

19,347 
15,682 

5,302 
4,420 

2,417 
2,444 

2.236 

2,288 

1.431 

1,508 

1.404 
1,248 

3,347 
2,435 

3,210 
1,339 

Female 

United  States 

12,799 

3,429 

1.582 

1,447 

1,092 

847 

2,328 

2,074 

Male. 

6,140 
6,669 

1,725 

1.704 



698 

884 

603 
844 

432 

660 

346 

501 

1,059 
1.269 

1,277 

797 

Female 

Canada 

2,102 

478 

229 

231 

191 

127 

498 

1      348 

Male 

1,178 
924 

262 
216 

123 
106 

122 

109 

92 
99 

70 
57 

277 
221 

232 

Female 

116 

England 

2,799 

607 

291 

279 

205 

234 

562 

621 

Male 

1,980 
819 

374 
233 

192 
99 

181 
98 

144 
61 

153 

81 

411 
151 

525 

Female 

France 

398 

115 

59 

GO 

43 

39 

63 

13 

Male 

2.50 
148 

77 
38 

38 
21 

39 

27 

28 
15 

22 
17 

35 
28 

11 
'     2 

Female 

Germany 

1,474 

201 

188 

162 

106 

89 

282 

386 

Male 

1,147 
327 

177 

84 

135 
53 

118 
44 

72 
34 

72 
17 

229 
53 

344 
42 

Female 

Ireland,  Scotland,  and  Wales 

1,628 

264 

143 

143 

101 

116 

329 

532 

Male 

1,031 
507 

155 
109 

90 
53 

89 
54 

63 
38 

73 
43 

199 
130 

362 
170 

Female 

Italy 

4,097 

1,464 

614 

575 

349 

433 

510 

152 

Male 

2.486 
1,611 

941 
523 

341 
273 

328 
247 

173 
176 

236 

197 

336 
174 

131 
21 

Female 

Norway,  Sweden,  and  Denmark 

140 

25 

12 

10 

10 

11 

28 

44 

Male 

74 
66 

7 

18 

4 
8 

5 
5 

3 

7 

6 
6 

16 
12 

33 
11 

Female 

Eastern  and  southeastern  Europe 

8,200 

2,653 

1,557 

1,4:35 

728 

644 

874 

309 

Male 

4.170 
4,030 

1,301 
1,352 

670 

887 

640 

789 

361 
367 

3(>5 
279 

585 
289 

242 
67 

Female 

Other  countries 

1,392 

426 

186 

176 

114 

112 

308 

70 

Male 

891 

501 

283 
143 

126 
60 

105 
71 

63 
51 

61 
51 

200 
108 

53 
17 

Female 

978 


BEPORT  OF  TABUT  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE   K. 


Table  27. ^Number  of  employees  in  woolen  and  worsted  mills  in  the  United  States   bu 
sex  and  county  of  birth  and  by  time  employed  in  occupation,  ' 


Total. 

Time  employed  in  occupation. 

Bex  and  country  of  birth. 

Less 

than 

1  year. 

1  year. 

2  years. 

3  years. 

4  years 

5  to  9 
years. 

10 

years 

and 

over. 

Total 

35,029 

9,423 

4..!i35 

4,105 

2,656 

2,396 

6,586 

6,328 

Male 

Female 

19,347 
15.682 

5.202 
4,221 

2.212 
2.323 

1,877 
2,228 

1,259 
1,397 

1,185 
1,211 

3,130 
2,456 

4,  482 
1,840 

United  States 

12.799 

3,486 

1,514 

1,359 

962 

798 

2,216 

2,4M 

Male 

6,140 
6,659 

1,723 
1,763 

643 

871 

517 
842 

367 
695 

300 
498 

1,008 
1,206 

1,582 

Femait' 

882 

Canada 

2,102 

443 

229 

192 

127 

123 

46S 

519 

Male , 

1,178 
024 

250 
193 

105 
124 

86 
106 

54 

73 

61 
62 

267 
2QS 

Female 

355 

164 

England 

2,799 

535 

235 

205 

166 

160 

448 

1,050 

Male 

1,980 
819 

360 
175 

157 

78 

126 

79 



121 
45 

103 
67 

308 
140 

Female , 

805 

245 

Fiance 

398 

46 

23 

23 

26 

17 

65 

198 

Male 

250 
148 

28 
IS 

12 
11 

11 
12 

11 
15 

6 
11 

32 
33 

Female 

150 

48 

Germany. 

1,474 

187 

168 

124 

95 

63 

265 

572 

Male 

1,147 
327 

121 
66 

117 
51 

90 
34 

67 
28 

47 
16 

205 
60 

Female 

500 

72 

Ireland,  Scotland,  and  Wales 

1.028 

242 

116 

117 

99 

106 

244 

701 

Male 

1,031 
697 

150 
92 

84 
32 

76 
41 

58 
41 

65 
41 

152 
92 

Female 

446 

258 

Italy 

4,097 

1,562 

590 

525 

354 

374 

487 

205 

Male 

2,486 
1,611 

981 
581 

343 

247 

300 
225 

175 
179 

196 
178 

319 
168 

Female 

172 

33 

Norway,  Sweden,  and  Denmark 

110 

24 

12 

8 

13 

8 

24 

61 

Male 

74 
66 

9 
15 

3 
9 

4 

4 

6 
7 

3 
6 

15 
9 

Female 

34 

17 

Eastern  and  southeastern  Europe 

8,200 

2,542 

1.492 

1.389 

695 

630 

1,023 

429 

Male 

4,170 
4,030 

1,331 
1,211 

632 

860 

673 

816 

331 

312 

288 

624 
399 

Female 

337 

92 

Other  cotmtries 

1,392 

356 

156 

163 

119 

117 

345 

136 

Male 

891 
501 

249 
107 

116 
40 

M 
60 

69 
50 

62 
55 

200 
146 

Female 

101 

1 
1 

36 

REPORT  OE  TARIFF  BOARD   OS  SCHEDULE   K. 


979 


Table  28.— 


Number  of  employees  in  woolen  and  worsted  mills  in  the  United  States,  by 
sex  and  time  employed  in  mill  and  by  time  employed  in  industry. 


Total. 

Time  employed  in  industry. 

Sex  and  time  em- 
ployed in  mill. 

Hi 

eo 

as 

§      3  to  5  months. 

• 

§ 

a 

o 

o 

00 

i 

i 

OS 

S 

.—1 

o 

+^ 

o 

20  to  29  years. 

o 

CO 

40  years  and 
over. 

Total 

35,029 

2,019 

2, 110 

3, 799 

3, 877 

2,710 

2,664 

6,926 

4,919 

2,537 

1,213 

1      5G3 

Male 

Female... 

19,347 
15,682 

1,097 
922 

914 

778 

1.019 
1,091 

1,771 
2,028 

1,771 
2,106 

1.191 
1,519 

1,272 
1,392 

3,679 
3,247 

3,184 
1,735 

1,901 
636 

1,026 

187 

522 
41 

Less  than  3  months. 

3,659 

2,019 

134 

141 

246 

181 

117 

135 

302 

225 

103 

38 

18 

Male 

2,031 

1,G28 

1,097 
922 

73 
61 

79 
62 

124 
122 

93 

88 

61 
56 

70 
65 

165 
137 

145 
80 

80 
23 

31 
7 

13 
6 

Female 

3  to  5  months 

2,865 

1,558 

128 

205 

164 

124 

95 

278 

185 

77 

38 

13 

Male 

1,629 
1,236 

841 
717 

63 
65 

119 
86 

82 
82 

73 
51 

53 

42 

149 
129 

138 
47 

62 
15 

36 
2 

13 

Female 

ito  11  months 

3,198 

1,841 

290 

199 

133 

116 

283 

181 

96 

41 

18 

Male 

1,642 
1.556 

877 
964 

142 
148 

101 
98 

63 
70 

60 
56 

151 
132 

117 
64 

77 
19 

37 

4 

17 
1 

Female 

1  year 

4,861 

3,058 

436 

2.34 

196 

437 

295 

138 

50          17 

Male 

2.417 
2,444 

1,386 
1,672 

198 
238 

115 
119 

91 
105 

251 

186 

198 
97 

111 
27 

50          17 
1 

Female 

t..::;: 

2  years 

4,524 

2,897 

316       241 

501 

341 

139 

7S             ''^ 

i-« 

Male 

2,236 
2,288 

1.297 
1,600 

133       115 
183       126 

277 
224 

224 
117 

107 
32 

69 
6 

14 

Female 

8  years 

2,939 

1,786 

241 

447 

253 

142 

54  I        16 

Male 

1,431 
1,508 

746 
1,040 

97 
144 

232 
215 

184 
69 

108 
34 

49 
6 

15 
1 

Female 

■ 1 

4years 

2,652 

1 

1,640 

541 

279 

113 

58 

21 

Male 

1.404 
1,248 

786 
854 

285 
256 

182 
97 

84 
29 

48 
10 

19 
2 

Female 

1 

1    

6  to  9  years.. 

5,782 

1 

1 

4,137 

944 

^97 

191  j        83 

1 

Male 

3,347 
2,435 

I 

2,109 
1,968 

627 
317 

324 
103 

151 
40 

76 
7 

Female 

1 

10  to  19  years 

2,949 

1 

2,216       409 

215 

109 

1 

Male 

1,989 
960 

1,309 
847 

333 
76 

186 
29 

101 
8 

Female 

- 

20  to  29  years 

1,196 

893 

195 

108 

1 

Male 

895 
301 

■  — 

615 
278 

173 
22 

107 
1 

Female 

30  to  39  years 

332 

258 

74 

1 

Male 

269 
63 

• 

196 
62 

73 
1 

Female 



40  years  and  over. . . 

72 

72 

Male 

57 
15    . 

H7 

Female 

15 

1 

"  1 

980 


REPORT  OF  TAHIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


BEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


981 


Table  29.—N'umher  of  employees  in  woolen  avid  tmrsted  mills  in  the  United  States  bv 
ux  and  time  employed  in  mill  and  hy  time  employed  in  occupatimi.  * 


Total 
.35,029 

Time  employed  in  occupation. 

Sex  and  time  em- 
ployed In  mill. 

Less    than    3 
months. 

• 

3 

1 
s 

n 
X 

1 

B 

•-• 

s 

N 

CO 

■V 

» 

s 

,-t 

B 

o 

f-l 

• 

s 

8 

• 

3 

40  years  and 
over. 

Total 

3,764 

2,643 

3,016 

4,535 

4,105 

2.656 

2,396 

5,586 

3,646 

1,807 

641 

234 

Male 

Female. . 

.  19.347 
.15,682 

2,172 
1,592 

1,602 
1,141 

1,528 
1,488 

2,212 
2,323 

1.877 
2,228 

1.259 
1,397 

1,185 
1,211 

75 

3,130 
2.456 

177 

2,418 
1,228 

156 

1,327 
480 

5.31 
110 

206 
28 

Less  than  3  months. 

3,659 

2, 749 

58 

45 

107 

86 

78 

87 

29 

12 

Male 

Female 

2.0,31 
1,628 

1.529 
1.220 

22 
36 



26 
19 

44 
63 

41 

45 

40 
38 

40 
35 

92 
85 

100 
56 

66 
21 

23 
6 

8 

4 

3  to  5  months 

2,865 

200 

1,984 

55 

63 

75 

44 

48 

173 

128 

65 

27 

3 

Male 

1,029 
1,236 

123 
77 

1.094 
890 

35 
20 

30 
33 

30 
45 

28 
16 

20 
28 

88 
85 

98 
30 

54 
11 

26 

1 

Female 

3 

6  to  11  months 

3,198 

106 

111 

2,192 

110 

81 

02 

47 

179 

144 

66 

31 

9 

Male 

1,642 
1,556 

100 
66 

74 

37 

1,048 
1,144 

40 
70 

38 
43 

30 
32 

21 

26 

93 

91 

88 

109 
35 

53 
13 

102 

29 
2 

Female 

9 

lyear 

4,861 

223 

102 

239 

3,326 

1iH\ 

240 

193 

30 

IW              OV 

4 

Male 

2.417 
2,444 

128 
95 

90 
72 

131 
108 

1.541 
1,785 

337 

57 
103 

2,902 

33 
56 

44 

49 

1.34 
106 

290 

130 
57 

214 

91 
11 

94 

28 
2 

Female 

4 

31  years 

4,524  i 

143 

104 

176 

129 

90 

37 

8 

Male 

Female 

2.236 
2.288 

96 
47 

67 
37 

56 

95 
81 

189 
148 

i,2ris 

1.637 

49 
80 

38 
52 

ISO 
110 

223 

144 
70 

71 
23 

34 
3 

8 

3  years 

2,939 

83 

108       186 

253 

1,643         96 

162 

86 

34 

9 

Male 

Female 

1,4.31 

1,508 

55 
28 

.34 
22 

58 
50 

99 
87 

110 
143 

701 
942 

26 
70 

120 
103 

119 
43 

71 
15 

29 
5 

9 

i  years 

2,652 

m 

49 

69 

114 

173 

195 

1,500 

224 

152 

80 

23 

10 

Male 

Female 

1.404 
1,248 

46 
17 

34 
15 

86 

,39 
30 

80 

76 
38 

212 

92 
81 

99 
96 

729 
771 

104 
120 

103 
49 

56 
24 

17 
6 

9 

1 

5  to  9  years 

5, 782 

- 

103 

263 

303 

342 

3,458 

517 

286 

106 

26 

Mate 

Female 

3.347 
2,435 

72 

31 

62 
24 

56 
24 

130 
82 

160 
103 

187 
116 

171 
171 

1.870 
1,588 

334 
183 

195 
91 

89 
17 

21 

5 

10  to  19  years 

2,949 

22 

27 

30 

52 

83 

84 

70 

503 

1,099 

228 

102 

49 

Male 

Female' 

1,989 
960 

14 

8 

19 

8 

24 
6 

39 
13 

20 

08 
16 

64 
6 

355 
148 

1,044 
655 

174 

54 

81 
21 

44 

5 

20  to  29  years 

1,196 

9 

5 

16 

25 

25         20 

25 

93 

227 

632 

76 

■' 
43 

Male 

Female 

895 
301 

7 
2 

5 

10 
6 

21 
4 

19 
6 

16 
4 

22 
3 

73 
20 

185 
42 

432 
200 

63 
13 

42 

1 

30  to  39  years 

332 

3 

1 

5 

3 

1 

9 

7 

22 

45 

74 

134 

28 

Male 

Female 

209 
03 

2 
1    . 

1 

5 

3    . 

"i* 

3    . 

8 
1    . 

7 

19 
3 

37 

8 

58 
16 

102 
32 

27 

1 

40  years  and  over... 

72  1. 

1 

1    . 
1    . 

3 

4 

9 

7 

12 

1 

33 

Mate 

57    . 
15    . 

2   . 

1    . 

3 

4 

9 

6 
1 

10 
2 

Female 

22 
11 

t 

r 

1 


Table  30. — Number  of  employees  in  woolen  and  worsted  mills  in  the  United  States,  by 
sex  and  time  employed  in  industry  and  by  tim^  employed  in  occupation. 


Total. 

Time  employed 

in  occupation. 

« 

Bex  and  time  em- 
ployed in  industry. 

o 
h4 

1 
§ 

a 

o 

CO 

1 

d 
o 

a 

,-< 

T-t 

3 

• 

g. 
« 

o 

CO 

i 

1 

at 

3 

r-i 

3 
o 

10 

3 
8 

• 

3 

5 

Total 

35,029 

3,764 

2,643 

.3,016 

4,535 

4,105 

2,656 

2,396 

5,586 

3,646 

1,807 

641 

234 

Male 

19,347 
15,682 

2,172 
1,592 

1,502 
1,141 

1,528 
1,488 

2,212 
2,323 

1,877 
2,228 

1,259 

1,397 

1,185 
1,211 

3,130 
2,456 

2,418 
1,228 

1,327 
480 

631 
110 

206 

Female 

28 

Less  than  3  months. 

2,019 

1,942 

14 

5 

6 

7 

11 

5 

10 

13 

4 

2 

Male 

1,097 
922 

1,042 
900 

10 
4 

3 
2 

2 
4 

5 
2 

8 
3 

3 
2 

7 
3 

12 
1 

4 

1 

Female 

1 

3  to  5  months 

1,692 

182 

1,452 

9 

9 

4 

3 

3 

11 

12 

4 

3 

Male 

914 
778 

110 
72 

761 
691 

6 
3 

5 
4 

2 
2 

3 

2 
1 

7 
4 

11 
1 

4 

3 

Female 

Uto  11  months 

2,110 

221 

182 

1,644 

5 

7 

9 

2 

17 

10 

7 

5 

1 

Male 

1,019 
1,091 

116 
105 

103 
79 

746 

898 

4 
1 

6 
1 

9 

1 
1 

13 
4 

9 
1 

6 

1 

6 

1 

Female 

1  vear 

3,799 

315 

253 

339 

2,761 

18 

6 

12 

36 

36 

13 

9 

1 

Male 

1,771 
2,028 

181 
134 

148 
105 

172 
167 

1,170 
1,591 

9 
9 

2 
4 

9 
3 

26 

10 

33 
3 

12 

1 

8 

1 

1 

Female 

..**>• 

2  years 

3,877 

263 

202 

281 

516 

2,515 

7 

10 

38 

20 

16 

6 

4 

Male 

1,771 
2,106 

165 
98 

120 
82 

150 
131 

245 
271 

1,014 
1,501 

4 
3 

8 
2 

27 
11 

17 
3 

12 
4 

5 

4 

Female 

3  years 

2,710 

145 

125 

171 

296 

359 

1,510 

18 

39 

26 

11 

9 

1 

Male 

1,191 
1,519 

87 
68 

77 
48 

87 
84 

163 
133 

129 
230 

571 
939 

9 
9 

29 
10 

20 
6 

11 

7 
2 

1 

Female 

4  years 

2,664 

147 

94 

121 

198 

302 

286 

1,443 

34 

25 

12 

2 

Male 

1,272 
1,392 

87 
60 

62 
32 

66 
55 

107 
91 

143 
159 

137 
149 

617 
826 

22 
12 

19 
6 

10 
2 

2 

Fpniale 

6  to  9  years 

6,926 

319 

201 

235 

434 

525 

486 

584 

3,950 

107 

54 

25 

6 

Male 

3,679 
3,247 

225 
94 

131 
70 

136 
99 

270 
164 

292 
233 

255 
231 

289 
295 

1,937 
2,013 

74 
33 

42 
12 

22 
3 

6 

Female 

10  tol9  5'ears 

4,919 

144 

78 

115 

171 

239 

215 

215 

1,067 

2,548 

85 

31 

11 

Male 

3,184 
1,735 

101 
43 

64 
24 

83 
32 

123 

48 

172 
67 

168 
47 

157 
68 

732 
335 

1,504 
1,044 

56 
29 

24 

7 

10 

Female 

1 

20  to  29  years 

2,537 

57 

28 

58 

90 

94 

79 

61 

259 

582 

1,183 

31 

15 

Male 

1,901 
636 

34 
23 

25 
3 

46 
12 

77 
13 

73 
21 

63 
16 

53 

8 

215 
44 

484 

98 

795 
388 

23 

8 

13 

Female 

2 

30  to  39  years ... 

1,213 

18 

9 

25 

34 

27 

27 

28 

86 

198 

341 

404 

16 

Male 

1,026 
187 

15 
3 

6 
3 

21 
4 

31 
3 

25 
2 

22 
5 

23 
5 

76 
10 

172 
26 

301 
40 

319 
85 

15 

Female 

1 

40  years  and  over. . . 

563 

11 

5 

13 

15 

8 

17 

15 

39 

69 

77 

117 

177 

Male 

522 
41 

9 
2 

5 

12 
1 

15 

7 
1 

17 

14 
1 

39 

63 
6 

74 
3 

113 
4 

154 

Female 

23 

32080°— H.  Doc.  342,  62-2,  vol  2 24 


982  EEPOET  OF  TABIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 

INDUSTRIAL  DEPRESSIONS  AND   UNEMPLOYMENT. 

Many  of  the  woolen  and  worsted  mills  are  located  in  small  vil- 
lages aiKl  towns  remote  from  large  cities  or  large  centers  in  which 
other  mdustries  are  carried  on.     In  such  localities  there  is  more 
steadiness  and  permanence  of  employment  in  the  miUs  than  in  the 
larger  centers     In  importaiit  worsted  textile  centers  such  as  Lawrence 
Providence,  the  Pa^saic-Paterson  district,  and  Philadelphia,  there 
ZLfr^'  mdustnes  offering  incentives  for  change  of  occupation  and 
great  difliculty  is  experienced  m  building  up  an  efficient  force  of  per- 
manent employees  such  as  obtain  in  the  competitive  centers  of  the 
industry  m  England,  Germany,  and  France.     When  depressions  in 
tHe  mdustry  m  mdustnal  centers  throw  wage-earners  out  of  emplov- 
ment  these  persons  seek  work  elsewhere  and  in  other  industries 
Consequently  when  resumption  of  production  takes  place,  the  securinc^ 
of  the  required  number  of  employees  is  a  task  of  much  difficultv. 
•    .u    y   1     .^  ^RP^y?ng  ^or  work  have  had  no  previous  experience 
m  the  industry  and  after  a  few  days'  trial  either  quit  of  their  own 
rpTJil  «L^!f  <lropi>ed  on  account  of  incompetency.    A  number 
remam  and  develop  mto  efficient  employees 

Some  of  the  youn^  women  tire  of  being  ''miU  hands"  andleave 
to  become  clerks  m  department  stores  or  to  enter  business  houses  in 
various  capacities.  There  are  male  skiUed  workers,  especially  weavers 
and  mule  spinners,  who  go  from  one  textHe  center  to  another,  remain- 
ing a  short  time  m  a  miff.  Whatever  the  causes  may  be,  the  weekly 
pay  rolls  bear  evidence  of  the  constant  changes,  resulting  in  expan- 
sion and  contraction  m  the  number  of  persons  employed.  This  condi- 
tion IS  weU  illustrated  by  the  foUowing  figures  obtained  from  the 
records  of  worsted  mills : 


Year. 

Persons  employed. 

Year. 

Persons  employed. 

Jan.  1. 

Dec.  31. 

Difference. 

Jan. 1. 

Dec.  31. 

Difference. 

1907. 

5,280 
3,974 

3,974 
4,956 

1,306 
982  1 

1 
i 

1909 

1910 

4,966 
4,782 

4.782 
3,585 

1908 

174 

1,197 

In  sonae  of  the  lai^r  estabhshments  a  card  index  of  each  person 
emploved  is  kept.  When  a  person  enters  the  employment  of  the 
mm,  the  name,  occupation,  etc.,  are  entered  upon  an  apphcation  card. 
When  such  employee  leaves  the  mill,  the  date  is  recorded  on  the  card. 
J^rom  such  card  records  for  a  number  of  estabhshments  the  following 
table  was  compiled,  showing  the  number  of  required  persons  emploved 
m  the  occupations  in  the  different  departments  and  the  number  of 
additional  persons  hired  during  the  year  to  M  the  vacancies. 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


983 


Table  31.- 


■  Unemployment  aiid  migration  of  woolen  and  worsted  mill  employees: 

1907  to  1911. 

1907. 


Dei)artment. 


Total. 


Wool  sorting 

Combing 

Drawing 

Spinning 

Weaving 

Burling,  mending,  and  examining. 

Dyeing  and  finishing 

Miscellaneoua 


1908. 


Total. 


Wool  sorting 

Combing 

Drawing 

Spinning 

Weaving 

Barling,  mending,  and  examining. 

Dyeing  and  finishing 

Miscellaneous 


1009. 


Total. 


Wool  sorting 

Combing 

Drawing 

Spinning 

Weaving 

Burling,  mending,  and  examining. 

Dyeing  and  finishing 

Miscellaneous 


1910. 


Total. 


Wool  sorting 

Combing 

Drawing 

Spinning 

Weaving 

Burling,  mending,  and  examining. 

Dyeing  and  finisliing 

MisceUaneous 


1911. 


Total. 


Wool  sorting 

Combing 

Drawing 

Spinning.... 
Weaving 


Burling,  mending,  and  examining. 

Dyeing  and  finishmg 

Miscellaneeus 


Addi- 

Total 

Per  cent 

Average 

tional  dif- 

of persons 

number 

ferent 

of  persons 

employed 

during 

the  year. 

employed. 

of  persons 
em- 

persons 
hired 

in  excess 
of  re- 

ployed. 

during 
year. 

quired 
number. 

11,178 

18,214 

29,402 

163 

334 

398 

732 

119 

978 

1,743 

2,721 

178 

501 

582 

1,083 

116 

3,413 

6,513 

9,926 

191 

3,032 

4,731 

7,773 

156 

340 

763 

1,103 

224 

1,312 

1,823 

3,135 

130 

1,268 

1,661 

2,929 

131 

11,473 

12,932 

24,415 

389 

310 

699 

979 

1,028 

2,007 

494 

295 

789 

3,358 

5,457 

8,815 

3,176 

2,893 

6,079 

311 

434 

745 

1,427 

1,819 

3,246 

1,339 

696 

2,035 

12,433 

18,255 

30,688 

489 

304 

793 

1,138 

1,852 

2,990 

490 

541 

1,031 

3,575 

6,641 

10,216 

3,305 

4,469 

7,774 

348 

923 

1,276 

1,796 

2,260 

4,056 

1,292 

1,260 

2,552 

13,233 

15,188 

28,421 

466 

360 

826 

998 

843 

1,841 

527 

714 

1,241 

3,166 

3,246 

6,412 

4,265 

5,201 

9,466 

501 

796 

1,297 

1,537 

1,908 

3,445 

1,773 

2,120 

3,893 

I 

3,112 


25 

85 

69 

233 

1,678 

111 

482 

429 


4,436 


25 

56 

71 

361 

2,254 

331 

579 

759 


7,548 


50 

141 

140 

594 

3,932 

442 

1,061 

1,188 


113 


80 
105 

60 
163 

91 
140 
127 

52 


147 


62 
163 
110 
186 
135 
267 
126 

98 


115 


77 
84 
135 
103 
122 
159 
124 
120 


143 


100 
66 
103 
155 
134 
298 
120 
177 


Itaaii 


984 


EEPOBT  OP  TARIFF  BOAHD  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


The  table  shows  that  in  1907  the  average  number  of  persons  em- 
ployed was  11,178,  but  on  account  of  the  continual  changes,  employ- 
ees quitting  or  being  discharged,  29,402  persons  were  hired  to  carry 
on  the  work,  this  number  being  163  per  cent  in  excess  of  the  num- 
ber actually  required  to  do  the  work. 

In  1908, 11,473  persons  were  required  in  the  different  occupations, 
but  24,415  persons  were  employed  to  fill  the  vacancies,  this  num- 
ber being  113  per  cent  in  excess  of  the  number  at  work. 

In  1909, 12,433  persons  were  required  for  the  different  positions, 
but  30,688  persons  were  employed  to  fill  the  vacancies  occurring, 
this  number  being  147  per  cent  in  excess  of  those  at  work. 

In  1910,  13,233  persons  were  emploved  to  fill  the  positions,  but 
28,421  nersons  were  hired  to  take  the  places  of  those  discharged  or 
those  who  quit  of  their  own  accord,  this  number  being  115  per  cent 
more  than  the  average  number  at  work. 

In  1911  a  smaller  number  of  establishments  reported,  showing 
3,112  positions  in  the  mills,  and  a  total  of  7,548  persons  employed  to 
fill  the  vacancies,  or  143  per  cent  in  excess  of  the  number  actually 
required  for  the  work. 

The  table  should  not  be  construed  to  mean  that  anything  like  a 
renewal  of  the  larger  part  of  the  forces  employed  during  the  year 
took  place,  even  though  the  number  of  persons  hired  during  the  year 
was  two  or  three  times  as  large  as  the  number  of  positions  in  the  mill. 

One-half  of  the  working  forces  might  be  permanent,  but  to  supply 
vacancies  in  the  other  half  a  great  number  of  persons  would  be  tried. 
It  will  be  seen  from  tables  11,  14,  and  19  showing  "experience  in  the 
industrv,"  that  42.8  per  cent  of  all  employees  had  been  emploved  in 
the  mills  in  which  they  were  at  work  at  the  time  of  the  investiga- 
tion from  1  to  4  years;  16.5  per  cent,  from  5  to  9  years;  and  13  per 
cent,  for  10  3'ears  and  over. 

RATES  OF  WAGES. 

At  each  of  the  mills  the  occupation  of  each  employee,  the  rate  of 
wages  per  hour,  day,  week,  or  month  for  time  workers,  with  the  hours 
worked  and  amount  earned,  were  copied  directly  from  the  pay  rolls 
of  the  establishment  for  a  full-time  period  of  from  one  to  four  weeks 
by  the  agents  of  the  Tariff  Board.  For  piece  workers  the  total  earn- 
ings and  hours  worked  for  from  two  to  four  weeks  were  secured  for 
each  employee.     Sex  and  age  period  were  obtained  in  each  case. 

The  pay  period  chosen  for  each  mill  was  one  during  which  the 
working  forces  were  employed  for  the  regular  working  hours  of  a  fuU- 
tmie  week,  care  being  taken  to  exclude  those  periods  in  which  hoHdays 
occun-ed  or  in  which  the  operatives  worked  overtime.  During  the 
period  of  investigation  from  Mav  to  October,  1911,  there  was  a  depres- 
sion in  the  mdustiy,  wliich  reduced  the  number  of  employees  in  the 
mills  investigated  to  about  35,000,  although  the  number  required  for 

mfP?^^^^^^  ^^  *^®  ^^^^  "^^^^  normal  conditions  would  be  45,500. 

The  hours  of  labor  per  week  in  the  mills  of  the  various  States  ranged 
from  54  to  60  for  operatives  16  years  of  age  and  over  and  and  from 
48  to  60  for  operatives  under  16  years  of  age.  The  earnings  in  all  of 
the  States  have  been  reduced  to  hourly  rates.  With  these  hourly 
rates  as  a  working  basis,  it  has  been  possible  to  present  the  rates 
of  wages  in  the  woolen  and  worsted  industry  in  greater  detail  and 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


985 


for  a  greater  number  of  occupations  than  has  hitherto  been  possible 
in  the  scope  of  wage  investigations.  ,,1,1. 

It  should  be  stated  that  free  access  to  pay  rolls,  books  of  account, 
records  of  daily  and  weekljr  production,  etc.,  and  to  all  departments 
of  the  mills  were  furnished  in  each  case.  .      ,     .  n 

The  number  and  distribution  of  the  operatives  shown  m  the  tables 
presenting  statistics  relative  to  wages  are  not  identical  with  the 
corresponding  data  given  in  the  tables  presenting  statistics  conceming 
country  of  birth,  length  of  service,  and  former  industry.  This  is  the 
result  of  the  difference  in  the  methods  of  obtaining  the  data.  As 
already  explained,  the  wage  rates  were  derived  from  data  copied 
directly  from  the  pay  rolls  of  the  establishment  for  a  period  during 
which  the  mill  was  operating  normally.  The  other  series  of  tables 
were  based  on  the  statistics  reported  for  the  operatives  actually  at 
work  in  the  mills  when  they  were  investigated  by  the  agents  of  the 
Tariff  Board.  In  a  number  of  cases  the  mills  were  not  operatmg 
under  normal  conditions  at  the  time  the  agents  were  there.  In  some 
instances  the  change  was  being  made  from  winter  goods  to  summer 
goods,  and  this  necessitated  more  or  less  readjustment. 

OCCUPATIONS  AND   WAGES. 

Table  32  shows  the  distribution,  by  occupation  and  specified  rates 
of  wages,  of  the  operatives  engaged  in  the  specified  woolen  and 
worsted  mills,  with  the  exception  of  the  weavers.  *  Tables  33  and  34 
present  the  same  data  for  the  males  and  females,  respectively.  Data 
concerning  weavers  are  presented  in  Tables  39  to  42. 

Table  32.— Number  0/ operatives  receiving  specified  hourly  rates  of  wages,  by  department 

and  occupation. 


Number  of  operatives  in  - 

«roolpn  and  worsted  mills  in 

I  the  United  States. 

Department  and 

Total. 

Receiving  an  hourly  rate  of  wages  of— 

occupation. 

09     •  1 

0)  0 

33 

1 

og! 

og 

og 
291 

^       30  to  34.99 
g         cents. 

og 
2,004 

•       • 

2.604 

sa 

og 
1,082 

2,635 

1— t 
4,920 

r-l 

og 

1-1 

00 

og 

St    * 

Total 

130.454 

60 

109 

6.007 

6,153:2,722 

661 

99 

Wool-sorting    depart- 
ment  

904 

3 
3 

4 

19 

22 

244 

135 

09 

115 

128 

134 

42 

48 

-  -  .  - 

.  -  -- 

01       1^ 

4 

10 
3 

6 
3 
1 
0 

4 

12 

1 

222 

1 
3 
1 

3 

u  vers6cr .......... 

Second  hand 

Third  hand 

Wool  sorter 

Wool  sorter,  ap- 

20 

2 

508 

231 

" 

2 

•  •  .  . 

.... 

5 

124 

3 
3 

57 

10 
2 

94 

9 
3 
9 

84 

73 

26 

25 

Wool  inspector 

Floor  hand 

Clipper 

12 

121 

3) 

1 

"*6 



*  •  «  • 

44 

58 
3 

2 
14 

1 
22 

>  «  .  * 

.... 

-  -  -  - 

.  •  .  . 



.... 

Wool-scouring  depart- 
ment  

287 

1 

1 

2 

4 

5 

8 

20 

13 

06 

78 

79 

11 

.... 

— — 

19 

12 

3 

1 

252 

1 

1 

2 

3 
1 

4 
1 

5 
2 

3 

4 
2 
1 

10 

Overseer 

Second  hand 

Third  hand 

Section  hand 

Scouring-machine 
tender 

1 

1 

1 
1 

1 

• . . « 

.... 

"  '  •  * 

.... 

.... 

*  •  •  » 

-  •  •  • 







1 

15 

C4 



n 

.      78 

11 

! a 

1  Exclusive  ol  weavers. 


me 


BEPOKT  OF  TABIFP  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE   K. 


Table  32.— Number  of  operatives  receiving  specified  hourly  rates  of  wages,  hy  department 

and  ocmpatioji—Continucd.  ^    '   ;/     / 


'I>epa3rt'ment  ami 
oocnpation. 


Carding  department, 
worsted 


Overseer 

Second  hand 

Third  hand 

Section  hand 

Card  tender 

Balling-head  tender 

Card  stripper 

Card  cleaner 

Card  grinder 

Carding  department, 
.    woolen 


Overseer . 

Second  hand 

Third  hand 

Section  hand 

Card  tender 

Card  stripper 

Card  cleaner 

Card  grinder 

Cdmbing  department 
•     (Bradford  system).. 

Overseer 

Second  hand 

Third  hand 

Section  hand 

Oill-box  tender 

Balling-machine 
tender 

NoWeoomb  tender 

Back  wash-ma- 
chine tender 

Pin  setter  and 
brush  maker 

Top  carrier 

Combing  department 
(l^Yench  system).... 

Overseer 

Second  hand 

Section  hand 

Gill-box  tender 

Bailing-machine 
tender 

French  comb  ten- 
der  

Backwash-ma- 
cMne  tender 

Pin  setter  and 
brush  maker 


Brtwing  department 
(Bradford  system) . 


Number  of  operatives  in  woolen  and  worsted  mills  in  the  United  States. 


Receiving  an  hourly  rate  of  wages  of— 


Overseer 

Second  hand 

Section  hand 

Drawing-frame 

tender 

Doffer 

Boving  carrier 


EEPOBT  or  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


987 


Table  32. — Number  of  operatives  receiving  specified  hourly  rates  of  wages,  by  department 

and  occupation — Continued. 


Number  of  operatives  in  woolen  and  worsted  mills  in  the  United  States. 

Department  and 

Total 

Receiving  an  hourly  rate  of  wages  of— 

occupation. 

75  cents 
and  over. 

60  to  74.99 
cents. 

45  to  69.C9 
cents. 

35  to  44.99 
to             cents. 

4 

1 

og 

00 

.       • 

r^  no 

to 

•       • 

0  g 
1—1 

tn  in 

rH 

194 

•      • 

og 
0 

r-1 

8  to   9.99 
g            cents. 

.   . 

t^  BO 

0 

Less  than 
6  cents. 

Drawing  department 
(French  system) 

615 

1 

1 

10 

2 

2^14 

. . . . 

Overseer 

2 
3 

8 

502 

1 

1 
1 
2 

Second  hand 

Section  hand 

Drawing-f  r  a  m  e 
tender 

*  •  *  > 

:::: 

2 

— 

..... 

..... 

■""4 

6 

2 

194 

244 

56 

— 

•  •  •  * 

Frame  spinning   de- 
partment   

3,547 

2 

5 

3 

5 

25 

48 

45 

7 

24 

584 

7021,121 

813 

151 

12 

Overseer 

50 

62 

12 

25 

1,199 

592 

198 

102 

1.161 

146 

2 

5 

3 

4 
1 

10 

10 

5 

15 

25 

1 

7 

9 
13 

1 
11 

1 
2 

■•■j 

1 
4 
3 
3 

365 
5 
3 
2 

192 
6 

Rftponri  hnnd 

Third  h'lnd 

"■■3 

349 

13 

24 

40 

237 

2 

fiftplioTi  hj\n<l 

""2 

1 
3 

1 

10 
1 

Frame  spinner 

Doflfer 

Bobbin  setter 

Roving  carrier 

Twister 

286 

148 

51 

30 

629 

75 

194 

297 

90 

27 

193 

12 

.  •  •  . 

.  •  •  . 



•  .  .  • 



118 

28 

2 

10 
2 

•     •     IB    « 

Yarn  inspector 

11 

2 

3 

Mule  spinning  depart- 
ment, worsted 

1.215 

3 

6 
6 

10 

12 

23 

118 

127 

23 

32 

66 

189 

442 

152 

12 

-     -     .- 

Overseer 

22 

22 

9 

209 

65 

83 

418 

387 

3 

4 
6 

5 
2 

1 
3 

3 

8 

9 

73 

Second  hand 

RAPtinn  haiirl 

2 

1 

Mule  spinner 

Mule  spinner, 
helner 

6 

15 

59 

20 
46 

10 

10 
2 

14 

9 
3 
6 

14 

5 

2 

29 

16 

19 

14 

1 

149 

6 

5 

2 

Joiner 

4 

25 

Piecer 

2 







234 
203 

Dofler 

150 

12 



Mule  spinning  depart- 
ment, woolen 

741 

.  ■  •  - 

3 

9 

21 

121 

192 

120 

62 

50 

61 

62 

43 

6 

.... 

Overseer 

26 

28 

1 

462 

9 
29 
66 
97 

648 

2 



3 

9 

6 
4 

6 
4 
1 

101 

Secondhand 

Third  hand 

13 

2 

5 

Mulespmnor 

Mule  spinner, 
helner  * 

11 

162 

107 

26 

20 

3 
1 

14 

1 

9 

8 

19 

21 

5 

19 

9 

8 

Piecer  1 

Doffer 







""'9 

"■3 

14 

2 
9 

43 

i 

1 

Roving  carrier 

Mule  fixer 

31 

26 

•     •     *• 

Winding  department.. 

1 

1 

3 

9 

21 

12 

45 

98 

135 

164 

116 

39 

4 

O  verseer 

11 

14 

1 

6 

550 

67 

1 

1 

3 

3 

2 

1 
3 

1 
1 
1 

1 

Second  hand 

Third  hand 

2 

5 

1 

Section  hand...... 

"Winder 

3 

13 

1 

1 
8 
1 

1 

38 
1 

4 

89 

8 

123 
9 

147 
16 

89 
27 

39 

Tlnhliin  parriflr 

4 

Spooling  department-. 

1,378 

2 

5 

10 

34 

108 

203 

753 

193 

62 

8 

Overseer 

11 

7 

4 

1,200 

148 

8 

2 

4 
1 

3 
4 
3 

1 
2 

1 
96 

8 

1 

Secondhand 

Section  hand 

Snoolfir 

34 

173 
29 

689 
64 

149     51 

44       3 

8 

8 

Reeler 

Reel  setter 

•  ■  •  ■ 

•  •  •  • 

>  •  •  • 

.... 

•  •  ■  • 



1  Occu|>ations  in  establishments  where  continental  system  is  in  use. 


■Ill 
I 


988 

Table  32.- 


BEPORT  OF   TABIFF  BOARD  01^  SOHEDtJLE   K, 


Number  of  operatives  la  woolen  and  worsted  mills  In  the  United 


States. 


Department  and 
occupation. 


Dressing  department.. 

Overseer 

Second  hand 

Section  hand 

Dresser  tender 

Sizing-machine 

tender 

Sizing  beamer 

Beam  fixer 

Warper 

Weaving  department.  . 

Overseer 

Swond  hand 

Third  hand 

Section  hand 

Weaver  2 

Loom  fixer 

Harness  fixer 

Drawer-in 

Hander-in 

Tier-in 

Chain  builder. 

Cloth  percher 

Cloth  examiner 

Burling  and  mending 
department 

Overseer 

Second  hand 

Section  hand 

Burler 

Mender 

Inspector 

Finishing  department. 

Overseer 

Second  hand 

Third  hand 

Section  hand 

Washing-machine 
tender 

Fulling-mill  ten- 
der  

Crabbing-machine 
tender 

Gigging-machine 
tender 

Drying-machine 
tender 

Teasling-machine 
tender 

Brushlng-raachine 
tender 

Shearing-machine 
tender 

Pressing-machine 
tender 

Dyeing  department- . . 

Overseer 

Second  hand 

Third  hand , 

Section  hand 

Dyeliouse  liand . . 


>  Exclusive  of  weavers. 

«  Weavers'  earnings  are  shoun  in  Tables  30  to  12. 


EEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K, 


989 


Table  2,2.— Number  of  operatives  receiving  specified  hourly  rates  of  wages,  hy  department 

and  occupation — Continued. 


Number  of  operatives  in  woolen  and  worsted  mills  in  the  United  States. 

Department  and 

Total. 

Keceiving  an  hourly  rate  of  wages  of— 

occupation. 

fl  > 
at  o 

ti  (A 

2 

8 

••r  to 

og 

62 

22 
2 

•      • 

eo-g 

552 

00 

407 

-J 

1-t 

CO   OQ 

£§ 

1-t 

413 

•       • 

T-(      CO 

0 

T-i 

OS 

• 

S  00 

og 

00 

0 

0  . 
■i->  0 

Mechanical  and  gen- 
eral department 

2,684 

71 

309 

211 

543 

76 

26 

4 

-  «  •  • 

O  vpropor 

55 

14 

1 

2 

320 

56 

24 

13 

SO 

222 

54 

21 

57 

Gl 

G 

47 

85 

213 

233 

48 

70 

136 

860 

3 
1 

11 
4 

11 
3 

5 

4 

1 

2 

Second  hand 

Third  hand 

Section  hand 

Mjvfhinist 

1 

'■ 1 

2 

27 

""h 
22 

1 

5 

9 
""2 

113 
"*i3 

150 
""9 

21 
2 

Machinist  appren- 
tice  

Blacksmith 

Blacksmith  helper 
Pipefitter 

P/ftrTipntpr 



21 
..... 

24 
..... 

* 

* 


4 

3 

3 

8 

2 

17 

3 

""5 

"2 
16 

16 

64 

7 

12 
18 

""*6 

10 

19 

1 

6 

26 

133 

25 

11 

r"    1 

T^ainti^r 

19 

1 

Tinsmith 

Electrician 

Electrician  helper. 
Mason 

Tin  <!Pttcr 

.... 

1 

.... 

"2 

"3 
.... 

4 
14 

i 

""2 
31 
11 
72 
6 
10 
14 
23 

6 

'"12 

""3 

3 

7 

64 

""io 

15 
36 

..... 

""23 
..... 

"'io 
""2 

"'is"  "i 
"■""4      5 

..... 

""2 



"Krurinppr 

1 

1 

1 

OiW 

32 
69 

1 

15 

36 

165 

82 
16 
28 
29 
55 
294 

55 

6 

13 

2 

13 

282 

14 

11 

....).... 

Firpman 

1 

Fireman  helper. . . 
Tpamsfpr 

1 

4 
3 
4 

Watnhmftn 

1 

1 

! 

Gpneral  laborer 

' 

52i      3 

1 

Miscellaneous  depart- 
ment ^ 

7,253       2 

G 

17 

39 

87 

221 

489 

540 

837  1,539 

1,4551.286     582 

1 
149     4 

I 

1  Includes  packing,  waste,  and  shipping  departments,  aad  miscellaneous  occupations  la  various  depart- 
ments. 


Ke 


990 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIPF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE   K. 


Table  ^.--Wumher  of  male  operatives  receiving  specified  hourly  rates  of  wages,  by  d-pwU 

ment  and  occupation.  if     r^ 


Department  and  occu- 
pation. 


Number  of  male  oixfmtives  in  woolen  and  worsted  mUls  in  the  United  F 


tales. 


Receiving  an  hourly  rate  of  wages  of- 


''"*»* )»17,343     33     59   106  287 


451 


Wool -sorting  depart- 
ment  


Overseer 

Second  hand 

Tiiird  hand 

Wool  sorter 

Wool  sorter  appren- 
tice  

Wool  inspector 

rioorliand 


844 


31       1 

20.... 
2 

^    •  •  •  • 

leol 


19 


22 


1.849 


2. 109  1, 1422.0363. 7293, 186  1,453 


188' 

12}.... 
12lt  ... 


Wool-scouring  depart- 
ment  

Overseer 

Second  hand 

Third  hand 

Section  hand { 

Scouring-m  ach  ine 
tender ! 

Carding     department, 
worsted 

Overseer 

Second  hand 

Tliird  hand 

Section  hand 

Card  tender 

Balling-head  tender 

Card  stripper 

Card  cleaner 

Card  grinder 


10 
3 


244 


4 

12 

I 

222 

1 
3 


126      58 


282'      l! 


19     I     : 

12' 

1'.... .... 


3 
2 

lis 

3 
3 


97 


101     123       20 


46 

10 
2 


57 
44 


757 
26 


133 


13 


20!      13 


65!      78 


247' 


345 


1'...- 


Carding     department, 
woolen 


Overseer 

Secondhand 

Third  hand 

Section  hand 

Card  tender 

Card  stripper 

Card  cleaner 

Card  grinder , 


14'      1.... 
21 

6.. 

29. ...j..... 
53.. 

•88... 
117.. 
IG... 


9       8 


6 


3 
4 
2 
1 

10 
13 


12 
14 


64 

48 


76 


65 

"58 


18 
"2 


74       11 


25 


73 


11 


101 


459 


if 


Combing    department 
(Bradford  system)... 


Overseer 

Second  hand 

Third  hand 

Section  hand 

Gill-box  tender.... 
Balling  -  machine 

tender 

Noble-comb  tender. 
Backwash-machine 

tender 

Pin  setter  and 

broshmaker 
Top  carrier 


43i      i;      2 

42:....!.... 

i4o....).r' 

56 
15 


8 


14 


682 


18 

23 

2 

6.5 

257 


13 
1 


12 


3.... 


1 
1 
6 

*5 


1 
3 
3 
34 
1 
6 


7 

5 

31 

55 

2 


58      76 


19 


9 
10 


22       15 


2 

14 

1 

5 


45     174 


44 


50 

150... 


70 


3 

5 

*27 
1 


17 


2 

3 
13 

-3 

16 

2 

6 


5.5 

109 

4 

3 


8 
11 
14 

2S 


9 
31 

2 
34 


90      56 


34 
13; 

38 
5 


44 


11 
1 


13 


1| 
6 


iL... 


1 

"io 
1 


49     135 


14 
2 


26 
3 

2 

21 


4 

2 

6 

30 


74 
14 


267 


126 


2 
146 

10 

48 

39 

4 

18 


71 

40 
1 

12 

1 


1  Exclusive  of  weavers. 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


991 


Table  33. — Number  of  male  operatives  receiving  specified  hourly  rates  of  wages,  by  depart- 
ment and  occupation — Continued. 


Number  of  male  operatives  in  woolen  and  worsted  mUls  in  the  United  States. 

Total. 

Receiving  an  hourly  rate  of  wages  of— 

Department  and  occu- 
pation. 

> 
o 

§ 

a 
4 

2 

s 
s 

1 

i 

to 
2 

a 
S 

2 

a 

o 

CO 

2 

o 
n 

a 

a> 
o 

s 

o 

a 

o 
o 

a 

0 

00 

i 

a 
0 

a 

0 

T-l 

. 

tn 

a 

0 
a> 

•-» 

2 

•V 
1—1 

6 

a 
u 

r-l 
(M 

34 

s 

0 
f-« 

0 
0 

a 

• 

at 
0 

00 

o 

a 
v 
u 

a 

1 

Combing    department 
(French  system) 

77 

4 

4 

6 

5 

1 

6 

1 

2 

3.... 

Overseer 

4 

21 

1 
10 

8 

7 

4 

1 

3 
1 

3 
1 

4 
1 
1 

1 
3 
1 

1 
1 

\ 

i 

1 

Second  hand 

Section  hand 

..... 

1 
19 

GiU-box  tender 

1      . 

Balling  -  machine 
tender 

1 

French-comb  tender 

j 

2 
2 
1 

8 
5 
1 

1 

Backwash-machine 
tender 

1 

1 

1 
,      1 

Pin  setter  and 
brushmaker 

1 

1 

9. 

1 

Drawing     department 
(Bradford  system) . . . 

401 

.  -  -  . 

3.... 

3 

4 

13        8        3 

13 

49 

144     134 

26 

i .... 

Overseer 

Second  hand 

Section  hand 

Drawing-  frame 
tender 

7 
11 
27 

237 
74 
45 

"  **  "  " 

3 

"  ■  ■  * 

1 
2 

1 
2 
1 

1 

2 

10 

1 

I 

..... 
2 

4 

""2 
46 

108 
21 
15 

..... 

78 
28 
27 

1 

24 

1 

'*" 

.... 

Doller 

t 

1 

Roving  carrier 

1 

1 

r--- 

Drawing    department 
(French  system) 

19 

1 

2.... 

4 

1 

1 

5 

5 

t 

*   Overseer 

2 
3 

9 

6 





1 

1 

"""i 





Second  hand 

Section  hand 

2 



1 

2         1 

4 

Drawing-  frame 
tender 



1 

5 

■ 

... 

.... 

Frame  spinning  depart- 
ment   

1,003 

2 

5 

3 

5 

25 

48 

43 

6 

15 

166 

200 

162 

273 

50 

Overseer 

50 
62 
12 
25 
233 

174 
92 

48 
25 

2 

5 

3 

4 
1 

10 

10 

5 

15 

25 

1 

7 

9 
13 

1 
11 

1 

2 

..... 

1 
4 

3 
3 
133 
4 
3 
2 
7 
6 

Second  hand 

Third  hand 

""3 

87 
13 
24 
40 
27 
6 

2 

Section  hand 

..... 

1 
3 
1 

Frame  spinner 

Dofler 

Bobbin  setter 

9 

65 
49 
27 
10 

168 

82 

20 

3 

31 

16 

2 

Roving  carrier 

Twister                

1 
1 
1 

Yam  inspector 

9 

2 

1 

Mule  spinning  depart- 
ment, worsted 

609 

3 

6 

10 

12 

23 

118 

119 

23 

32 

66 

54 

93 

44 

6 

.... 

Overseer 

22 
22 
9 
190 
65 
83 
74 

3 

6 

4 
6 

5 
2 

"*5 

1 
3 

"15 

3 

8 

9 

73 

Secondhand 

Section  hand 

Mule  spinner 

Mule  spinner  helper 
Joiner 

2 

""51 
20 
46 

1 

"io 

10 

2 

"*'i4 
9 
3 
6 

""u 

5 

2 

29 

16 

"■"8 
14 

1 
27 

4 



5 

"*i2 

76 

2 
4? 



.... 





4 

25 

6 

Piecer 

Dofler 



992 

Table  33. 


EEPOKT  OF  TABIFF  BOAED  ON  SCHEDULE   K, 

-Number  of  male  operatives  rtceimnff  spedjied  hourlif  rates  of  wages,  by  depart^ 
mmt  and  occupation— Continued.  ^      ^  aepart^ 


Department  and  occu- 
pation. 


Mule  spinning  depart- 
ment, woolen 


Overseer 

Secondhand 

Third  hand 

Mule  spinner 

Mule  spinner  helper 

Pieeeri 

Doffer 

Kovin^  carrier 

Mule  fixer 

Winding  department... 

Overseer 

Secondhand 

Third  hand 

Section  hand 

Winder 

Bobbin  carrier 

Spooling  department. . . 

Overseer 

Secondhand 

Section  hand 

Spooler 

Keeler 


Dressing  department. . . 

Overseer 

Secondhand 

Section  hand 

Dresser  tender 

Sizing  machine 

tender 

Sizing  beamer 

Beam  fixer 

Warper 

Weaving  department.. 

Overseer 

Secondhand 

Third  hand 

Section  hand 

Weaver' 

Loom  fixer 

Harness  fixer 

Drawer-in 

Hander-in 

Tier-in 

Chain  builder 

Cloth  percher 

Clotli  examiner 

Bnrlinc  and  mending 
department 

Overseer 

Secondhand 

Section  hand 

Biirler 

Inspector 


Number  of  male  operatives  in  woolen  and  worsted  mills  In  the  United  States. 


Total. 


Receiving  an  hourly  rate  of  wages  of— 


i  ExdS^rof';;B?^ra^*"*^  ^'^^'^  continental  system  is  in  use. 
»  Weavers'  earnings  shown  in  Tables  30  to  42. 


BEPORT  OF  TABIFF  BOARD  OK  SCHEDULE  K. 


993 


Table  33. — Number  of  male  operatives  receiving  specified  hourly  rates  of  wages,  by  depart- 

ment  and  occupation — Continued . 


Number  of  male  operatives  in  woolen  and  worsted  mills  in  the  United  States. 

Total. 

Keceiving  an  hourly  rate  of  wages  of— 

Department  and  occu- 
pation. 

1^ 

> 
O 

as 

a 

I'. 

2 
a 

• 

3 

S 

CO 

a 

B 
S 
5 
:§ 

13 

0 

30 

09 

a 
8 

0 
,     43 

• 

a 
9 
0 

0 
69 

a 

• 

s 

CO 

-.J 

a 
S 
§ 

d 

s 

CO 
1-1 

100 

OS 

a 

§ 

3 

0 

196 

3 
1 
5 
8 

16 

7 

6 

2 

12 

22 

5 

74 

2-^ 

g 

0 

g 
1.0 

3 

1-1 

449 

a 
§ 

CO 

t-i 

3 

364 

1 

• 

f-H 
r-l 

3 

0 

77 

■0 

a 
3 

00 

18 

a 
8 

3 

CO 

s 

0 

Finishing  department. . 

1,474 

31     13 

99 

13 

1 

Overseer 

127      2 

78 

14.... 

13 

22j     19 

27 

19 

1 

7 

18 

33 

4 

6 

4 

2 

2 

9 
5 
4 
4 

10 

3 

2 

1 

4 

1 

1 
1 

Second  hand 

Third  hand 

1 





.... 

Section  hand 

25 

245 

30 

78 

88 

183 

Washing  -  machine 
tender 

65 
13 
45 
66 
79 
22 
38 
62 
57 

130 
5 

22 
10 
50 
25 
IS 
34 

13 

1 

Fulling-machine 
tender 

Crabbing-  machine 
tender 

1 

Gigging-machiue 
tender 

9 
23 
12 

4 

7 
9 

Drying-machine 
tender 

1 
4 

14 

Teasling-m  a  c  h  in  e 
tender 

86 

65 

255 

200 

Brushing-  machine 
tender 

Shearing  -  machine 
tender 

14 

18       44 
7       13 

2 
1 

Pressing  -  machine 
tender 

1 

1 

13 

1 

! 

.... 

... 

Dyeing  department 

791 

10 

9 

8 

13 

7 

15 

38 

31 

170 

307 

158 

25 

>  -  •  • 

Overseer 

43     10 

9 

5 
3 

8 
3 

1 
4 

3 
5 

1 

11 

1 

9 

16 

3 
5 

2 
21 

2 
3 
3 
6 
156 

1 

Second  hand 

34 

690 

Third  hand 



Section  hand 

3 
4 

Dyehouse  hand 

2 

2 

306 

158 

25 

... 

Mechanical  and  general 
department 

2.656 

.... 

2 

8 

62 

71 

309 

551 

5 
4 

"iso 

211 

407 

'""2 
27 

540 

409 

56 

26 

4 

.  -  •  ■> 

Overseer 

55 

14 

1 

2 

326 

56 

24 

13 

80 

222 

54 

21 

57 

61 

6 

47 

8.5 

213 

233 

48 

70 

136 

832 

3 
1 

22 
2 

""5 

11 

4 

•  ■  •  * 

""9 

11 
3 

""iis 

1 
..... 

'""2i 

2 

Second  hand 

Third  hand 

Section  hand 

Macliinist 

. . .. 

••  •  •  • 

Machinist  appren- 
tice  

21 

24 

4 

4 

3 

Blacksmith 

2 

""'2 

17 

3 

"5 

"2 
16 

13 

""m 

64 

7 

12 

18 

""■5 

10 

19 

1 

6 

9 

""'26 

133 

25 

3 

28 

2 
31 
11 
72 

6 
10 
14 
22 

Blacksmith's  helper 

Pipefitter 

Carpenter 

Painter 

Tinsmith 

Electrician 

Electrician  helper. . 

Mason 

Pin  setter 

.... 

'"2 

'""3 

8 

"""3 
.... 

4 

14 

2 
11 

'"i9 
6 

""i2 

'""3 

3 

7 

64 

'"'io 

15 
36 

6 
22 

""23 

"""9 

""32 

69 

1 

15 

36 

165 

4 

""io 

"""2 

'"*82 
16 

28 

29 

55 

291 

1 

"is 
4 

'"55 

k       6 

13 

2 

13 

278 

..... 
""5 

""'2 
"6 

*"ii 

*  *  «  ■> 

•  ■  •  • 

•  •  ■  • 

Engineer 

Oiler 

1 



Fireman 

*  *  *  ■ 

Fireman's  helper. . . 

::::.::; 

Teamster 

4 
3 
4 

Watchman 

General  laborer 

32 

3 

1 

■  "  *  ■ 

Miscellaneous    depart- 
ment 1 

5,199 

2 

5 

14 

35 

71 

199 

428 

433 

711 

1   420  1    ini 

497 

733 

47 

3 



'  Includes  packing,  waste,  and  shipping  departments  and  miscellaneous  occupations  in  various  depart- 
ments. 


994 


EEPOBT  OF  TAKIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


Table  3-L— Number  of  fenrnk  opemtivu  receiving  specific  hourly  rates  of  waaes    im 

department  and  occupation.  y    »    y 


Number  of  female  operaUTes  in  the  woolen  and  woreted  mills  In  the  United  States. 


Department  and 
occupation. 


I 


Total. 


Total. 


Wool-sorting     depart- 
ment  


Wool  sorter , 

Wool    sorter,    ap- 
prentice  

Clipper 


1 13,111 


120 


Receiving  an  Iiourly  rate  of  wages  of- 


80      •    C& 


S    |S    s     s 


sS 


o 


Wool-scouring  depart- 
ment, scouring-ma- 
cliinetenda: 


Cardiiy;    department, 
wwsted.... 


Card  tender 

Balling-head  tender 
Card  cleaner 


38 

43 
39 


21 


Carding     department, 
woolea 


2 

8 

11 


Card  tender. 
Card  cleaner. 


Combing    department 
(Bradford  system)... 

GiU-box  tender 

Bailing  -  machine 

tender 

Nobl&<M>mb  tender. 
BacJcwasb-machine 

tender 

Top  carrier 


7S 


17 


n 


155 


495 


at  «Q 

<X>        ho 


540 


599 


»0   tffl 

.-I  ♦J 


1,197 


O 


8j  . 


ao 


11     18 


9       11 


18 


27 


27 


2,8214,7001,965 


11 


3? 
o 

o 


i9 


5 


o 
to 


528 


22 


58 
17 


330 


237 

5 
79 

8 
1 


Combing    department 
(French  system) 


Gill-box  tender 

Bailing  -  machine 
tender 

French-comb  tend- 
er  

Backwash-machine 
tender 


263 


8 
14 


22 


22 


176 

8 

31 

48 


Drawing    department 
(Bradford  system)....     1,019 


24 


12 


86 


9 


45 


18 
6 


18 


2 
'i(3 


112 


261 


83 
28 

'i 


35 
10 


101 


D  r  a  w  i  n  g-frame 

tender 

Doffer 

RoTing  carrier 


Brawing  department 
rFrench  system), 
orawiog  frame  tender  . 


931 

m 
2 


496 


Frame-spinning  depart-J 
ment ;    2.544 


Frame  sphiner 966 

Doffer 310 

Bobbin  setter 24 

Roving  carrier 1  10 

Twister 1,113 

Yam  inspector 121 


21 


67 

5 
25 


85 


10 
4 


192 


14 


14 


4G7 


130 

7 
20 
35 


39 


25 
1 


13 


403 


451 

16 


2 
418 


9 


232 
1 


185 


189 
502 


262 


210 
30 


367 

35 

1 


244 
969 


120 


12 


96 

23 

1 


56 
540 


12 


101 


277 

83 

2 

3 

519 

75 


194 

129 

8 

7 

190 

12 


12 


87 
12 


10 
2 


1  £j£Cluslve  or  weavers. 


BEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


995 


Table  34. — Number  of  female  operatives  receiving  specific  hourly  rates  of  wages ^  by 

department  and  occitpatian--Contiiiued. 


Number  of  female  operatives  in  the  woolen  and  worsted  mills  in  the  United  States. 

Department  and 

TotcJ. 

Receiving  an  hourly  rate  of  wages  of— 

occupation. 

40  to  59. 99 

cents. 

1^ 

30  to  34.99 
cents. 

si 

0  § 
8 

si 

1—1 

1—1 

og 

|j2  S-2 

Less  than 
6  cents. 

Mule-«pinning  depart- 
ment, worsted. 

ooe 

135 

34S 

1081    e 

> . . . . 

1 

1 



Mule  spinner 

19 
344 
243 

8 

11 

122 
2 

Piecer 



222 

Doffer 

127 

lOJH 

6 

1 

Mule-spinning  depart- 
ment, woolen,  mule 
spinner 

44 

1 

1 

5 

1 

6 

9 

21 

.... 

Winding  department.. 

487 

4 

9 

4 

32 

76 

110 

131 

82 

38 

1 

Overseer 

2 

4S2 
3 

1 

109 

1 
130 

Winder 

1 

....  1     -     - 

4 

9 

4 

32 

76 

SOi    38 
2.... 

Bobbin  carrier 

1 

Spooling  depM-tment. . . 

1,325 

1 

1 

34 

92 

197 

739 

191 

62 

g 

Overseer 

2 

1 

1,171 

143 

8 

1 

1 

Second  hand 

1 

Spooler 

34 

87 
5 

167 
29 

677 

62 

147 
44 

51 
3 
8 

g 

Heeler 

Reel  setter 

.... 

Dressing  department. . . 

145 

1 

5 

1 

8 

11 

15 

104 

.... 

Second  hand 

1 

4 

33 

107 

1 

Section  hand 

2 
3 

""i 

1 

1 

Dresser  tender 

1 

4 
2 

6 
4 

6 
9 

13 
91 

Sizing  beamcr 

.... 

Weaving  department. . . 

1063 

32 

91 

56 

69 

51 

49 

64 

92 

122 

37 

Section  hand 

9 

9 

Weavers' 

Harness  fixer 

2 

373 

274 

4 

1 

2 

Drawer-in 

32 

79 

54 

69 

51 

40 
3 

42 
22 

Hander-in 

90 

122 

37 

Tier-in 

:::;.;::;i 

2 
1 

2 

Cloth  examiner 

... 

Burling  and  mending 
department 

2.852 

1 

94 

307 

326 

294     359 

619 

494 

246 

85 

27 

"1 

Overseer 

21 

3 

1,358 

1,375 

95 

2 

4 
1 

74 
225 

22 

2 

12 

1 

Second  hand 

1 

1 

1 

354 

124 

15 

Burler 

3 

30 

256 

21 

97 
185 

124 

396 
210 

12 

168 

74 

4 

85 

27 

Mender 

"*j 

89 

Inspector 

10       11 

1 

. . . . 

'  *  ■  ■ 

Finishing  department. . 

34 

1 

3 

__     1        1 

13 

11 

6 

•"i----!           -| 

. . . . 

"  *  •.  • 

Drying-machine 
tender 

4 

24 
5 

, 

2 

Brushing  -machine 
tender 

1 

Shearing  -  machine 
tender 

1 

12 
1 

6 
3 

5 

1 

Pressing  -  machine 
tender 

• 

1 

" 

.... 

*  •  ■  * 

Mechanical  and  general 
department,  general 
laborer 

28 

1 

"-* 

3 

4 

20 

" "  ■  ■  1 

. . . . 

"  "  *  • 

Miscellaneous    depart- 
ment'  

2,054 

— 

1 

3 

4 

16       22 

61 

107 

126 

119 

354 

789 

349 

102 

1 

1 

1  E  xclusive  of  weavers. 
Weavers'  earnings  are  shown  in  Tables  39  to  42. 

Includes  packing,  waste    and  shipping  departments,  and  miscellaneous  occupations  in  various 
departments. 


996 


BEPOKT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


The  following  summary  table  is  based  upon  Tables  32,  33,  and 
34  and  shows  the  distribution  of  the  operatives,  exclusive  of  the 
weaversj  by  sex  and  by  the  departments  in  which  they  were  employed: 

Table  Z^.—Wumher  and^  percentage  of  operatives  in  woolen  and  worsted  mills  in  the 

United  States,  ly  sex  and  by  department. 


Department. 


Total. 


Wool  sorting 

Wool  scouring 

Carding: 

Worsted 

Woolen 

Combing: 

Bradford  system 

French  system 

Drawing: 

Brad  ford  aystam 

French  system 

Frame  spinmng 

Mule  spinning: 

Worsted 

Woolen 

Winding.. 

Spooling 

Dressing 

Weaving » 

Burling  and  mending 

Finishing 

Dyeing 

Mechanical  and  general. . . 
Miscellaneous 


Total. 


»  30, 454 


964 
287 

S34 

1,012 

1,420 

515 

3,547 

1,215 

741 

&I8 

1,378 

659 

1.570 

3.022 

1,508 

791 

2,684 

7,253 


Males. 


17,343 


844 
282 

345 
459 

682 

77 

401 

19 

1,003 

609 

697 

161 

53 

514 

907 

170 

1,474 

791 

2.656 

5,199 


Females. 


rer  cent  of  totaL 


13,111 


120 
5 

21 

75 

330 
263 

1,019 

496 

2,544 

606 

44 

487 

1,325 

145 

663 

2,852 

34 


Males. 


Females. 


56.9 


87.5 
98.3 


43.1 


12.5 
1.7 


28 
2,054 


94.3 

5.7 

85.9 

14.1 

67.4 

32.0 

22.6 

77.4 

28.3 

71.7 

3.7 

96.3 

28.3 

71.7 

50.1 

49.9 

94.1 

5.9 

24.5 

75.5 

3.8 

96.2 

78.0 

22.0 

57.8 

42.3 

5.6 

94.4 

97.7 

2.Z 

100.0 

98.9 

1.1 

71.7 

28.3 

1  Exclusive  of  weavers. 


Of  the  30,454  persons  shown  above  17,343,  or  56.9  per  cent,  were 
males  and  1.3,111,  or  43.1  per  cent,  were  females.  The  proportions 
of  the  sexes  here  differ  very  little  from  the  proportions  shown  in  the 
other  series  of  tables  (see  page  954). 

The  numbers  of  persona  shown  for  the  various  departments  include 
only  those  operatives  doing  the  work  that  is  especially  characteristic  of 
the  respective  departments.  A  variety  of  occupations  occurring  only 
in  the  more  highly  organized  establishments  and  the  occupations  of 
the  packing,  waste,  and  shipping  branches  of  the  mills  are  grouped 
together,  since  a  detailed  study  of  the  rates  of  wages  for  the  persons  in 
those  occupations  would  not  be  significant. 

No  women  were  employed  in  tbe  dyeing  department  and  only  a 
small  proportion  were  engaged  in  the  work  of  the  wool  scouring, 
finishing,  worsted  carding,  woolen  mule  spinning,  and  mechanical 
and  general  departments.  On  the  other  hand,  women  predominated 
largely  in  the  spooling,  burling  and  mending,  drawing,  French  comb- 
mg^  winding,  and  frame  spinning  departments. 

It  is  interesting  to  note  that  over  two-thirds  (682,  or  67.4  per  cent) 
of  the  operatives  in  the  combing  department  following  the  Bradford 
system  were  men,  while  in  the  French  combing  department  over  three- 
fourths  (263,  or  77.4  per  cent)  of  the  employees  were  women. 

In  both  branches  of  the  drawing  department  women  predominated 
largely,  but  the  proportion  of  women  in  the  department  using  the 
French  syst3m  is  much  larger  than  the  proportion  in  the  department 


KEPOET   OF   TARIFF  BOARD   ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


997 


using  the  Bradford  system,  the  percentages  being  96.3  and  71.7, 
respectively. 

fn  the  worsted  mule  spinning  department  the  sexes  were  about 
evenly  represented,  but  in  the  woolen  mule  spinning  department  the 
men  formed  94.1  per  cent  of  the  total  number  of  operatives.  In  the 
frame  spinning  department  women  formed  71.7  per  cent  of  all  the 
w^e-earners. 

The  following  summary  table  shows  the  distribution  of  the  oper- 
atives, exclusive  of  weavers,  by  specified  rates  of  wages: 

Table  36. — Numher,  per  cent  distribution,  and  per  cent  of  total  of  the  operatives  in  woolen 
and  worsted  mills  in  the  United  States,  by  sex  and  by  hourly  rate  of  wages. 


Hourly  rate  of  wages. 

Total. 

Males. 

Females. 

Per  cent  distribution. 

Per  cent  of  totaL 

Total. 

Males. 

Females. 

Males. 

Females. 

Total 

1 .30, 454 

17,343 

13,111 

100.0 

100.0 

100.0 

56.9 

43.1 

75  penis  and  over 

33 

60 

109 

291 

468 

2,004 

2,604 

1,682 

2,635 

4,926 

6,007 

6,153 

2,722 

061 

99 

33 
59 

106 

287 

451 

1,849 

2,109 

1,142 

2,036 

3,729 

3,186 

1,453 

757 

133 

13 

0.1 
0.2 
0.4 
1.0 
1.5 
6.6 
8.6 
5.5 
8.6 
16.2 
19.7 
20.2 
8.9 
2.2 
0.3 

0.2 

0.3 

0.6 

1.7 

2.6 

10.6 

12.1 

6.6 

11.7 

21.5 

18.4 

8.4 

4.4 

0.8 

0.1 

100.0 
98.3 
97.2 
98.6 
96.4 
92.3 
81.0 
67.9 
77.2 
75.7 
53.0 
23.6 
27.8 
20.1 
13.1 

60  to  74.99  cents 

1 
3 
4 

17 

155 

495 

540 

599 

1,197 

2,821 

4,700 

1.965 

528 

86 

(2) 
(2) 
0.1 

1.2 

3.8 
4.1 

4.6 

9.1 

21.5 

35.9 

15.0 

4.0 

0.7 

1.7 

46  to  59.99  cents 

2.8 

35  to  44.99  cents 

L4 

30  to  34.99  cents 

3.6 

25  to  29.99  cents 

7.7 

20  to  24.99  cents 

19.0 

18  to  19.99  cents 

32.1 

16  to  17.99  cents 

22.8 

14  to  15.99  cents 

24.3 

12  to  13.99  cents 

47.0 

10  to  11.99  cents 

76.4 

8  to  9.99  cents 

72.2 

6  to  7.99  cents 

79.9 

Less  than  6  cents 

86.9 

1  Exclusive  of  weavers. 


2  Less  than  one-tenth  of  1  per  cent. 


One-fifth  of  the  30,454  wage  earners — 6,153,  or  20.2  per  cent— were 
paid  at  least  10  cents  but  less  than  12  cents  an  hour.  The  mills  in 
general  list  their  wage  rates  in  cents  and  fractions  of  a  cent.  In  this 
discussion,  however,  the  rates  will  be  quoted  in  cents,  with  the  under- 
standing that  the  figure  stated  includes  the  range  of  rates  froni  that 
amount  to  that  amount  and  ninety-nine  one-hundredths  additional. 
Thus  the  rate  '^11  cents"  would  include  rates  ranging  from  11  to  11.99 
cents.  Consequently,  these  6,153  operatives  received  from  10  to 
1 1 .99  cents  an  nour. 

Almost  as  many  employees — 6,007,  or  19.7  per  cent — received 
from  12  to  13  cents  an  hour. 

The  next  largest  group — 4,926  persons,-  or  16.2  per  cent — received 
from  1 4  to  1 5  cents  an  hour.  These  three  groups  comprise  over  one-half 
(56.1  per  cent)  of  the  total  number  of  employees  considered.  The 
number  paid  over  16  cents  but  less  than  25  cents  an  hour  was  6,921, 
or  22.7  per  cent,  of  the  total. 

The  3,482  operatives  receiving  less  than  10  cents  an  hour  formed 
11.4  per  cent  of  the  total  number,  and  the  961  employees  receiving 
at  least  30  cents  an  hour  formed  3.2  per  cent.  These  two  classes 
receiving  the  extreme  in  wages  formed  14. 6  per  cent  of  the  operatives. 

More  than  one-half  of  the  females — 7,521,  or  57.4  per  cent — 
received  10  cents,  but  less  than  14  cents,  an  hour.  Over  one-third — 
4,700,  or  35.9  per  cent — of  the  female  operatives  were  concentrated 
in  the  group  receiving  10  cents,  but  less  than  12  cents  an  hour. 

32080°— H.  Doe.  342,  G2-2,  vol  2 25 


998 


BEPOKT  OP  TARIFF  BOAHD  OlS  SCHEDULE  K. 


Males  predominated  largely  among  the  operatives  receiving  14 
cents  and  over  an  hour  and  females  predominated  largely  among 
thc^e  receivmg  less  than  12  cent«  an  tour.     More  than  one-half-? 

huf}LTih.J^'A'^^^^  ^u^  employees  receiving  at  least  12  cente 
but  less  than  14  cents  an  hour  were  males;  but  that  proportion  is 
Musti^''  proportion  of  males  (56.9  per  cent)  engag^  in  thi 

Table  32  shows  the  range  of  wa^es  for  more  than  100  occupations, 
t^rtain  of  these  occupations  are  of  greater  importance  than  the  othera 
when  the  amount  and  quality  of  theproduct  manufactured  is  concerned. 

im?  n^^nVtm^'''^  ^^^  occupations  which  require  experience 
and  upon  which  efficiency  m  manufacturing  woolen  and  worsted 
it^r  "^^"^^  clepends  and  the  hourly  rates  of  wages  paid  to  the 
persons  in  these  occupations: 

Table  ^7 .—mstribution  of  operatives  in  woolen  and  worsted  mills  in  the  United  States 

M^^mtjom  wh^reqmre  exnerknee  and  upon  which  efficiency  iT^naTt^LI^^ 

woolen  and  worsted  fabrics  7nainly  depends  J  m         v  >>  >■  munu/aciunng 


Departmwit  and 
occupation. 


Wool  sorting  depart- 
ment: 

Wool  sorters 

Do 

Wool  Bcouring  de- 

gartment,    sconr- 
»g  machine  lend- 
er  

Carding  depart- 
ment, worsted: 

Card  tender 

Card  stripper.... 

Card  ETinder 

Carding  depart- 
ment, woolen: 

Card  tender 

^    i>o 

l-'ard  stripper 

Cardgrincler 

Combing      depart- 
ment    (Bradford 
system): 
GiU  box  tender.. 

Do 

Noble  comb 
tender. 

Do 

Combing  depart- 
ment (French  sys- 
tem): 
GiU  box  tender. . 

Do 

French  comb 
tender. 

Do 

Drawing       depart- 
ment     (Bradford 
system): 
Drawing- frame 
t«nder. 
Do 


BEPORT  OF  TAKIFF  BOAED  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


999 


Table  37  —Distribution  of  operatives  in  woolen  and  worsted  mtlU  m  the  United  Sta,tes 
M  occupations  whkh  r^uwe  experience  and  upon  which  efficienaj  xn  m^nufactwnng 
woolen  and  worsted  fabrics  mainly  d^pe^rfs— Continued. 


Department  and 
occupation. 


Sex. 


I 

a 
a 

3 

o 


Iloiurly  rate  of  wages. 


33  cents 
and 
over. 


a 

a 


Female.. 


Male 

Female. 

Male 

Female. 


Male..., 
Female. 
Male.... 


..do 

..do.... 
Female. 


Male.... 
Female. 


Male 

Female. 


Male 

Female. 


Male.... 
Female. 


Male.... 
...do.... 
Female. 
Male.... 
..  .do 


Female 
..do.... 

Male... 
Female 


496 


233 

966 

48 

1,113 

190 
19 
65 

83 

74 

344 


418 
44 


68 

482 


29 
1.171 


352 
33 


432 

20 

373 

106 
67 


1.358 

1,375 

124 

95 


o 


25  to 

34.99 

cents. 


a 

"A 


o 

Ph 


2.6 


20  to 

24.99 

cents. 


1 


88 


29 


Male 

Female . 
Male 


1,230 

34 
690, 


.3 


111 


16  to 

19.99 

cents. 


a 


46.3 


35.  C 


26.0 
2.3 


b 
8 
20 

46 


s 

o 

Ph 


12  to 

15.99 

cents. 


8to 

11.99 

cents. 


a 

3 

'A 


26.9 
42.1 
30.8 

55.4 


0.8 


0.2 


2     0.3 


190 
1 


335 
5 

32 

15 

2 


3 

89 
43 


54.0 
3.0 


77.  C 
25.0 

8.6 
14 

3.0 


0.2 

6.5 

34.7 


161 
1 


28 


2.3 


121 
3 


65 
4 
79 
69 
23 


30 

256 

44 

21 


38 


38.5 
2.3 


5.9 
1.9 


24 


1.0   191 


19 

5 
6 


127 
6 


10 
36 


1.7 
.1 

2.1 
.81 


12.6 


29.2 

6.0 
8 


O.D     16 


34.4 
9.1 


15.0 
20.0 
21.2 
55.7 
34.3 


2.2' 
18.6 
35.5 
22.1 


3.1 


2.3 


34 


23 
4 


31 

7 

123 

25 
40 


171 

410 

15 

32 


30.4 
13.6 


14.7 
7.4 


2.9 


6.5 
12.1 


7.2 
35.0 
33.0 
23. 

59.7 


12.6 
29.8 
12.1 
33.7 


220 

494 

34 

395 


22 
11 
19 

3 

56 

122 


19 
15 


27 
185 


15 
254 


than 
Scents. 


l4 

a 

3 

'A 


38.5 


94.4 
51.1 
70 
35.5 


11.6 
67.9 
29.2 

3.6 
75.7 
35.5 


4.5 
34.1 


39.7 
38.4 


51.7 
21.7 


300 


9 

471 

13 

709 


s 

u 


60.5 


3.9 
48.8 
27.1 
63.71 


1.1 

a 

3 


o 

Ol 

Ph 


15 
12 


12 
222 


4.2 
36.4 


257  20.9 

3     8.8 
177   25.7 


2  10.0 

97  26.0 

6  5.7 

2  3.0 


520  38.3 

422  30.7 

11  8.9 

23  24.2 


810  65.8 

14  41.2 
464  67.2 


21 


26 
210 


14 

824 


13 


42 


10.8 


16.2 
64.5 


47.7 


38.2 
43.6 


48.3 

70.4 


.6 
39.4 


10.0 

11.2 

.9 


522 

198 

10 

19 


95 

17 
25 


Drawing  depart- 
ment (French 
system),  drawing- 
frame  tender 

Frame-spinning  de- 
partment: 
Frame  spinner.. 

Do 

Twister 

Do 

Mule-spinning     de- 
partment, worsted: 
Mule  spinner — 

Do 

Mule  -  spinner's 
helper. 

Joiner 

Piecer 

Do 

Mule  -  spinning  de- 
partment, woolen: 
.    Mule  spinner — 

^'         Do 

Winding       depart- 
ment: 

r  Winder 

*         Do 

Spooling    depart- 
ment: 

,  Spooler 

'  Do 

Dressing       depart- 
•  ment: 
J    Dresser  tender  . . 

Do 

Weaving  depart- 
ment: 1 

Loom  fixer 

Drawer-in 

Do 

Cloth  percber.. . 
Cloth  examiner.. 
Burling  and  mend- 
ingdepartment: 

Burfcr 

Mender 

Inspector 

Do 

Finishing     depart- 
ment: 
Finishing  ma- 
chine tender.* 

Do» 

Dyeirig  department, 
dyehouse  band. 

» Exclusive  of  weavers.  ..,..,.,,.        i       •  ^ 

2  Includes  tenders  of  washing,  fulling,  crabbing,  gigging,  drymg,  teaselmg,  brushmg,  shoarmg,  and  press- 

ing  machines. 


1 
38 


59 


38.4 

14.4 

8.0 

20.0 


7.7 

50.0 
3.0 


1.5 
7.9 


5.0 


112  8.3 


1000 


BEPOBT  OF   TARIFF  BOABD   ON   SCHEDULE  K, 


Table  37 .—Distribution  of  operatives  in  woolen  and  worsted  mills  in  a^  TT^.-t^  o*^ 
for  occupations  which  require  experience  and  »Z»  .,,h:.h     ^ •  ■       United  States 

woolen  Zi  worsted fahrlslS^d^^rSfj^Zii^^^^^^^   "^'''"^'-^  '''  "^^^f^^ng 


Department  and 
occupation. 


Sex. 


Mechanical  and  gen- 
eral department: 

Machinist Male. 

Pipe  fitter .do. 

Carpenter ...do 

Electrician do 

Engineer do."! 

Fireman ...do 

Laborer do 

Overseers 


Sorting  depart- 
ment. 
Scouring  depart- 
ment. 
Carding  depart- 
ment, worsted. 
Carding  depart- 
ment,  woolen. 

Combing  depart- 
ment   (Brad- 
ford system). 

Combing  depart- 
ment (French 
system). 

Drawing  depart- 
ment (Brad- 
ford system). 

Drawing  depart- 
ment (French 
system). 

Frame  spinning 
department. 

Mule  spinning 
department, 
worsted. 

Mule  spinning 
department, 
woolen. 

Winding  depart- 
ment. 

Spoohng  depart- 
ment, j 

Dressing  depart- ' 
ment.  I 

Weaving  depart- ' 
ment.  1 

Burling  and  I 
mending    de- 

_  partment. 

Do 

Fmishing      de- 
partment. 

Dyeing  depart- 
ment. 

Mechanical   de- 
partment. 


Male... 

...do 

...do 

-..do 

...do 


...do. 


i.-.do 

...do 

...do 

...do 

...do.....j 

...do.'... 

--.do.*...| 

I 
...do 

...do ' 

...do ' 

Female.! 

^BtlAiOw  mm  ml 

-.do ' 

..do 


Hourly  rate  of  wages. 


35  cents       25  to 
and  34.99 

over.    I    oents. 


20  to 

24.99 

cents. 


15  to 
19.99 
cents. 


12  to 
15.99 
cents. 


8  to 
11.99 
cents. 


Less 
than 
8  cents. 


11   78.6      2'  14.3'      1     7.1 


43     24   55.8     14   32.5       2'    4.7 


18       9  50.0       8   44.4'      1 


'      18 

3 

2 

50 
22 

m 

11 
11 

30 
68 
M 

21 
127 

43 

5.5 


14 

18 

14 
2 


9  m.0 


4  57.1 


50.0 

2S.0 
8L8 

18.2 


2 

1 

25 
4 

12 

6 
6 


38.9 
28.6 
50.0 


li.6. 


1     5. 5       J 

1    14.3'.. 


4.7 


5.6 


l!     2.3 


50.01      9 
18.2 


18.0       1 


46.2!, 

54.5 

54.5 


2.0 


9.1 
27.3 


2.0 


1&  53.3     13'  43.3 

■40  58.8     18  26.5     10  14.7 
9;  3461    15  57.7'     2'    7.7' 


1     3.4 


50 
32 
25 


m4 

74.5 


2 

46 


9.1 
18.2 


9.1 


9.5.... 

36. 2;     18 


9.3 


45.5     22   40.0 


14.2 
2.3 
9.1 


6  28.6 

12     9.4 

5  n.6 

1     LS 


13 

1 

1 

21 


61.9... 
0.8... 


2.3 
3.  (1 


t^mstM^'S'  ^'^^^^''  2  Of  the  overseers  were  w;;;;;;7i;;^group  from  li^^l^^^^^^^-^i 
f«!m  ll^i^lt^Si  ^'^^^-''  2  Of  the  ove.^  were  women,  1  in  the  group  from  25  to  35  cents,'  and  1 


f 


BEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDl^LE  K. 


1001 


In  the  comments  on  the  distribution  of  wage-earners  according  to 
the  rate  groups  shown  in  this  table,  the  fact  should  be  considered  that 
while  operatives  are  reported  for  a  certam  earnings  group,  they  may 
in  reality  be  concentrated  at  one  rate  in  that  group.  For  instance, 
21  spinners  in  the  woolen  mule  spinning  department  are  shown  for 
the  earnings  group  '^8  to  11  cents ^  whUe  all  of  them  received  at  least 
10  cents  an  hour.     The  more  detailed  rates  may  be  found  m  i  able  32. 

The  largest  proportion  of  employees  receiving  at  least  35  cents  an 
hour  naturally  occurred  in  the  case  of  the  overseers.  For  this  occu- 
pation not  only  a  knowledge  of  the  work  is  required,  but  also  more 
or  less  executive  ability.  Of  the  642  overseers,  303,  or  47.2  per  cent, 
were  paid  at  least  35  cents  an  hour.  In  a  few  other  occiipations  some 
operatives  were  paid  that  amount.  The  occupations  with  the  largest 
proportions  of  operatives  receiving  such  rates  were  engineers,  with 
18.8  per  cent  in  this  group,  and  electricians,  with  10.5  per  cent. 
•■  The  carpenters  and  electricians  were  the  only  classes  of  operatives 
who  did  not  receive  a  rate  lower  than  20  cents  an  hour.  Many  wage- 
earners  in  other  occupations  received  rates  above  20  cents  an  hour, 
but  in  each  case  some  of  the  employees  for  the  occupation  were  paid 
at  much  lower  rates. 

The  range  of  wages  was  from  8  to  34  cents  an  hour  for  card  grmders, 
gill-box  tenders  in  the  combing  department  following  the  Brad- 
ford system,  woolen  mule  spinners,  menders,  drawers-in,  and  cloth 

nerchers. 

The  range  was  less,  being  from  8  to  19  cents  an  hour,  for  card 
tenders,  gill-box  tenders  in  the  French  combing  department.  Noble 
comb  tenders,  French  comb  tenders,  drawing-frame  tenders,  frame 
spinners,  twisters,  and  piecers. 

A  few  occupations  are  shown  with  operatives  receiving  less  than  8 
cents  an  hour.  Of  these  the  burlers  were  most  numerous,  112,  or 
8.3  per  cent,  of  the  persons  in  this  work  having  received  this  low  rate. 
Probably  these  persons  v/ere  new  to  the  work  and  would  be  classed 

as  learners. 

The  rates  of  wages  paid  to  wool  sorters  range  from  16  cents  per 
hour  to  the  highest  group  shown  in  this  table — 35  cents  and  over. 
By  consulting  Table  32  it  will  be  seen  that  no  wool  sorter  received 
so  much  as  45  cents  per  hour.  No  female  wool  sorter  received 
so  much  as  25  cents  an  hour.  Almost  one-half  of  the  males  in  this 
occupation — 228,  or  48.5  per  cent — were  paid  from  25  to  34  cents, 
while  three-fourths  of  the  females— 29,  or  76.3  per  cent>— were  paid 
from  16  to  19  cents. 

Wliile  the  proportion  of  women  wool  sorters  is  small,  where  they 
have  been  employed  it  is  recognized  that  their  deftness  of  touch 
enables  them  to  detect  the  differences  in  the  finer  grades  of  wool 
and  sort  with  great  precision.  They  are,  however,  unable  to  sort  the 
coarser  grades  of  wool  as  rapidly  as  the  men,  because  they  lack  the 
physical  strength  required  to  handle  large  quantities  of  wool. 

The  rates  of  wages  of  the  scouring  machine  tenders  were  lower  than 
those  of  the  wool  sorters.  Less  skill,  however,  is  required  of  the  wool 
scourers  than  of  the  wool  sorters.  Three-fifths  of  the  wool  scourers — 
149,  or  60.3  per  cent — were  paid  at  least  12  cents  but  less  than  16 
cents  an  hour,  and  about  half  as  man}^— 76,  or  30.8  per  cent— were 
paid  at  least  16  cents  but  less  than  20  cents  an  hour. 


1002 


EEPOET  OF  TABIFF  BOAKD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


Practically  all  of  the  card  tenders  in  the  woolen  carding  depart- 
ment received  8  cents  but  less  than  16  cente  an  hour.  AS>ut  ?wa^ 
thirds  of  the  mole  carders  (65.4  per  cent)  were  paid  from  l"  to  IS 
cents  an  hour  while  a  larger  proportion  of  the  female  cardere  "(69  ner 
cent)  received  less  than  12  cents  an  hour  ^aruere  (w  per 

In  the  woreted  carding  department  one-half  of  the  card  tendera 
(51.7  per  cent)  and  a  smiilar  proportion  (51.1  per  cent)  of  theS 
stnppers  were  paid  at  least  12  cents  but  less  th^  16  cents  an  ho?r 
^  Ahnost  aU  of  the  male  gUl-box  tendere  m  the  French  combing 
department  (95.2  per  cent)  were  paid  at  least  12  cents  but  lesftS 
16  cents  an  hour,  and  two-tlurd's  (68.5  per  centrof  those  Lth^ 
combmg  department  using  the  Bradford  system  were  pJd  at  that 
rate,  while  about  thre^tenths  (29.9  per  cent)  were  pafd  at  least  8 

Tout  onlS73"5  9  nTo^  ^^  ST"     ^^  ^«  V^«  ^^^  ^-^^^ 
aDout  one-third  (35.9  per  cent)  of  those  m  the  department  usine  the 

Bradford  system  were  paid  12  cents  but  less  than  16  cente  ariour 
whde  over  on.yteaUi  (11.9  per  cent)  of  such  operatives  La  the  FrencS 
department  received  at  least  16  cente  but  less  than  20  cmte  an  W 
The  larger  proportion  of  female  gill-box  tendera  in  each  branch^f 

^ceXanXS!''^'"'''*  ""'""  P"'^ '"^^  *^^ '- *^"^^t  ™^^ 

The  range  of  rates  for  female  comb  tenders  was  ereater  in  tl.A 
combing  department  using  the  French  system  tC  S  the  branch 
using  the  Bradford  system,  being  from  8  to  19  cents  fo^Fre^ch  comb 
tenders  and  from  8  to  15  cents  for  Noble  comb  tender  A  greater 
proportion  of  the  operatives  in  the  French  departmenf  howefir  re 

^"IS^wisrL'ihT  En'i  r,  ''^n^^T  pV  le-^hann^n^ 

^id  such  low  w^es         "^^^  department  only  44.3  per  cent  were 

The  range  of  rates  is  the  same  for  the  drawing  frame  tendpr<»  in  thn 

uZiX"^"'  Hf  *^"  '^^r^  department.    iT^edrnwingdeS^^^? 

usmg  the  Bradford  system,  however,  tlie  largest  proportion  of  mSe 

ZubutlZ^^Zl"7^fT  ^''1' ""'  ^'  Pe4nt)?ec?i;ed  at  W  ll 
«m,ilw  i;ifJ!i  w  ^^  ^''iit*  an  liour,  and  the  females  were  ahnost 
equally  divided  between  that  group  and  the  group  receiving  8  cents 
but  less  than  12  cents  an  hour  (465^  or  50  per  cent,  and  TeT  or  49  7 
per  cent,  being  reported,  respectiveiv,  for  these  groups)  wl^eL  th« 

STn  hi!,?'  T^  ♦P-^T?*'"  f''^?  '•«?'''^ed  8  cents  but  less  than  12 
^^u^  ^-  J^  ^\  *^T*'^  drawing  department  there  were  onlv 
6  male  drawing  frame  tenders,  and  percentages  based  onVuch  a  sm«l\ 
number  are  not.significant  an^  conslsquently  are  Tot  riven 

th J&ITrfi^n^J  ^^^"i*  spinning  departmente  werlpaid'moro  than 
the  frame  spinners.  No  frame  spinner  received  so  much  as  '>0  cent« 
an  hour  and  tl.e  majority  received  onlv  from  12  to  15  cente  an  hour 

ScZte  anToS  ''''  *'"'"■'  '^*^°"S''  '^^'^^  received  less  thai 

Five  men  in  the  worsted  mule  spinning  department  were  naid  ^t 

Imount  ZtZt'T^  ^'^'^.f ' "'  f^^  r^ent,P,Sd  irrh^n  that 
amount   out  more  than  25   cent.<«      in    fliA  w/^^i;r>»   «,  i         •    •"^*»w 

department  111,  or  26.6  per  centof  the  mSle  m"  k':Jin:^:i^3Si 


BEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD   ON   SCHEDULE   K, 


lOOS 


at  least  25  cents  but  less  than  35  cents  an  liour,  and  161,  or  38.5  per 
cent,  were  paid  at  least  20  cents  but  less  than  25  cents  an  hour. 

The  majority  of  the  female  mule  spinners  were  paid  less  than  16 
cents  an  hour,  57.9  per  cent  of  those  in  the  worsted,  branch  and  81.8 
per  cent  of  those  in  the  woolen  branch  having  been  paid  at  that  rate. 

Over  three-fourths  of  the  winders  received  8  cents  but  less  than  16 
cents  an  hour.  Some  received  less  than  8  cents  an  hour,  and  some 
received  16  cents  ol*  more. 

The  rates  for  the  spoolers  are  the  lowest  in  this  group  of  occupa- 
tions upon  which  efficiency  in  the  manufacture  of  woolen  and  worsted 
goods  mainly  depends.  Practically  all  of  the  spoolers  are  women 
and  girls,  and  824,  or  70.4  per  cent,  of  them  were  paid  from  8  to  11 
cents  an  hour;  254,  or  21.7  per  cent,  were  paid  from  12  to  15  cents; 
and  59,  or  5  per  cent,  received  less  than  8  cents.  The  highest  paid 
group  of  spoolers  (34,  or  2.9  per  cent)  received  from  16  to  19  cents 
an  hour.. 

The  range  in  the  rates  of  wages  for  dresser  tenders  is  from  8  cents 
an  hour  for  the  lowest  rate  to  35  cents  and  over  for  the  highest. 
The  concentration  for  the  males  occurs  in  the  group  paid  frona  25  to 
34  cents  an  hour,  190,  or  54  per  cent,  of  the  men  engaged  in  this 
work  being  reported  for  those  rates.  In  the  case  of  the  female 
dresser  tenders  three-fourths,  75.8  per  cent,  received  from  8  to  15 
cents  an  hour. 

In  the  weaving  department  all  of  the  loom  fixers  and  cloth  perchers 
are  men.  The  loom  fixers  are  among  the  operatives  receiving  the 
highest  rates.  Over  three-fourths,  335,  or  77.6  per  cent,  were  paid 
at  least  25  cents  but  less  than  35  cents  an  hour.  More  than  one- 
half  of  the  cloth  perchers,  59,  or  55.7  per  cent,  were  paid  20  cents 
but  less  than  25  cents  an  hour.  Almost  one-fourth,  25,  or  23.6  per 
cent,  were  paid  16  cents  but  less  than  20  cents  an  hour. 

Practically  all  of  the  drawers-in  are  females.  Their  rates  vary  con- 
siderably, ranging  from  8  cents  to  34  cents  an  hour.  About  one- 
third,  123,  or  33  per  cent,  were  paid  from  16  to  19  cents  an  hour; 
97,  or  26  per  cent,  from  12  to  15  cents;  79,  or  21.2  per  cent,  from 
20  to  24  cents;  42,  or  11.2  per  cent,  from  8  to  11  cents;  and  32,  or 
8.6  per  cent,  from  25  to  34  cents. 

Most  of  the  burlers  and  all  of  the  menders  are  females.  Both  of 
these  occupations  require  careful  work.  The  work  of  the  menders 
especially  demands  great  skill,  since  the  perfection  of  the  product 
depends  largely  on  the  character  of  the  mending.  In  the  weaving 
many  breaks  occur  in  the  yarn,  and  knots  and  lumps  in  the  fabric 
are  the  result,  and  it  is  the  duty  of  the  burlers  and  menders  to 
rectify  these  faults.  The  menders  must  put  in  new  threads  in  place 
of  the  defective  threads  left  in  the  weaving  and  in  place  of  the 
knots  and  lumps  removed  by  the  burlers.  This  weaving  by  hand 
must  be  skillfully  done  and  care  must  be  taken  to  use  threads  of  the 
right  color  and  quality  and  to  follow  the  design  of  the  weaving. 

In  addition  to  employing  burlers  and  menders  in  the  miQ,  several 
establishments  have  some  of  the  burling  and  mending  done  by  con- 
tractors who  have  at  their  command  especially  skilled  operatives. 

The  rates  of  wages  paid  to  the  menders  in  the  mills  range  from  8  cents 
to  29  cents,  as  shown  by  the  basic  table.  More  than  one-half,  755, 
or  54.9  per  cent,  were  paid  over  16  cents  an  hour,  and  only  198,  or 


1004 


BEPOKT  OF  TARIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


and  Cr  *^r*i  ^tZ  It!^,  ^^^^'^  ^^  ,**?*^  ,*°  >^o"''-     Tw«  hundred 
ana  lour  or  15  per  cent,  of  the  female  burlers,  received  at  least  ifi 

r„?,/  ^Th^''  *°^  ^^2'  ?'  »-3  P«^  <*°t'  ^«<^i^«d  less  than  8  cent*  11 
teo^T^  remainmg   1,042  females  engaged  in  this  work  were 

STiIS?       ^"^  '^*'^^^°  *^^  ■■***  ^^P«  12  to  15  cTnteanH 

The  work  of  the  inspectors  in  the  burling  and  mendinir  dpnartmont 

fhilZ^'^TrlT  '^-    .Over  two-thLsKrmTntOL 
«nH  ZZi'^'t    tlu^  P^''  '^°*'  received  from  20  to  34  cents  In  hour 

to  W  c^te!  *""'"''  ^^'  "'  ^^-^  ^'  ^''^-  ^«^«  P^id  fr°«i  16 

■,  JJi^  finishing  machines  arc  usually  attended  bv  men    1  2'?n  nut  nf 

1,264  of  the  machine  tenders  bpin<TVnBloa       ak  •'*  i      \V-    i    **V*',''' 

malfa  «n„.«,r»ri  ;„*!:■  ""i"*"^  ?.®i°g  males.     About  two-thirds  of  the 

males  engaged  m  this  occupation,  810,  or  65  8  ner  cent    wb™  .^.i^ 

from  12  to  15  cents  an  hourW  their  work.  ^  '       ™  ^'"'^ 

All  of  the  dyehouse  hands  are  males.    The  work  of  dvein.T  ;» 

3      TwJl'Jh-'I^^T.l'^,*"^  some  of  the  dyersTrfrelativ^Xu 

^celved  Cm^2  tnlr*^^  dyehouse  hands,  4^64,  or  67.2  jTr^S 

receivea  trom  12  to  15  cents  an  hour,  and  one-fourth    177    «,.  on  4 

percent,  were  paid  from  16  to  19  cents  ^n  hour.  '        '  "'  ^'"'^ 

do  n^^t'triS^.wl^V  i^f  hanicaJ  and  general  departmente 

worftPd  ao^k  ™!l,7f  f  *^^,  ■**  }t^  production  of  the  woolen  and 

Wnart^^^Th^  *'I"'S*^-'''  ^^^  V""^^'  ^^^"^  ^^rk  plays  an  impor- 

tant  pait  in  the  general  efficiency  of  the  miU.     A  good  machinist  or 

TXuTmachii°'"f ^  • "  !r"'i4^  '^f  ^°'^  "f  the%era^lS^\h"e 
various  machines.     It  is  the  duty  of  such  emplovees  to  kppn  tl,« 

machmes  m  such  good  condition  that  there  need^  be  no  delay  for 

paK'tffmTcSer'"  '^  ""*^'  '^'^''^  "^^  P°-  "P-tion  oS  th" 

Frequently  the  carpenters  and  other  mechanical  worlrmAn  rA/.«iV^ 

of\\Tmm*bu   rhT^'-^'f '^^-T"  *'^*°,  th^;  co^Tc^^nd  out   de" 
the  eam^'.^  nf  ^.  ^  furnishes  regular  employment,  and  probably 

greaferS  tLelr^^^l^-^  "  ^^Y^  ''^'^  ^  the^mill  are 
Bke  tL^e  earmngs  of  similar  workmen  on  the  outside  for  a 

The  contrMts  in  wages  referred  to  above  are  summarized  in  thn 
following  table,  which  presents,  in  the  order  of  wX^pS^^  Ihl 
occupations  in  which  tfiree-fourths  or  morron^operat^vrfa'rned 
16  cents  per  hour  and  over,  and  also  those  occupSs  in  which  ?h« 
teo^rtaT  "'  *^«-^»-*»-  -  "»-«  of  the  VraTi's^wte'S 


BEPOKT  OF  TABIFF  BOAED  OIT  SCHEDULE  K. 


1005 


Table  38. — Distribution  of  operatives  in  woolen  and  toorsted  mills  in  the  United  States, 
by  sex  and  by  earnings  groups^  for  occupations  in  which  75  per  cent  or  more  of  the  oper- 
atives  were  paid  16  cents  an  nour  and  over  and  those  in  which  75  per  cent  or  iruyre  were 
paid  less  tmn  20  cents  an  hour. 

OCCUPATIONS  IN  WHICH  75  PER  CENT  OR  MORE   OF  THE  OPERATIVES  RECEIVED 

16  CENTS  AN  HOUR  AND  OVER. 


# 

Sex. 

Total 
num- 
ber. 

Per  cent  of  total  in  each  occupation  receiving  per  hour— 

Occupation. 

35  cents 

and 

over. 

25  to 

34.99 

cents. 

20  to 

24.99 

cents. 

16  to 

19.99 

cents. 

12  to 
15.99 
cents. 

8to 
11.99 
cents. 

Less 
than  8 
cents. 

Loom  fixer 

Male.... 
...do.. .. 

432 

85 
352 

67 
470 

38 
190 
222 
326 
124 

83 
418 

80 

847 

545 

1,400 

1,782 

106 

67 
233 

0.2 
18.8 

0.3 
10.5 

1.1 

77.6 
41.2 
54.0 
40.4 

48.5 

15.0 
86.5 
84.4 
49.1 
24.5 
23.7 
26.9 
59.9 
46.0 
85.5 
55.4 
38.5 
82.5 
80.4 
29.7 
47.9 
17.7 
55.7 
84.8 
30.9 

7.2 
3.5 
6.5 

Engineer 

Dresser  tender 

Electrician 

...do 

...do 

4.2 

0.6 

Wool  scourer 

...do... . 

25.9 
76.3 

12.6 

Do 

Female  . 

Male.... 
...do.... 
...do... . 

■ 

Mule  spinner,  worsted 

2.6 

3.6 
1.9 

as 

"""3.7' 

"*"6.i" 

46.8 

36.5 

37.4 

34.7 

35.0 

26.6 

22.5 

8.3 

6.8 

23.5 

3.9 

14.1 

3.0 

2.6 

11.6 

Carpenter 

Machinist 

14.7 
12.1 
6.0 
30.4 
41.8 
89.1 
40.0 
21.5 
88.1 
23.6 
59.7 
57.1 

Inspector  (cloth) 

Joiner,  mule  spinning 

...do 

...do... . 

8.9 
3.6 
4.5 

8.0 

Mule  spinner,  woolen 

...do... . 
...do 

Pipe  fitter 

Weaver,  woolen 

. . .do. ... 

18.3 
21.5 
6.5 
31.4 
5.7 
3.0 
9.4 

3.9 
2.0 
0.5 
8.9 
0.9 

Do 

Female . 
Male.... 
Female  . 
Male.... 
...do 

Weaver,  worsted 

Do.» 

Cloth  percher 

Cloth  examiner 

Fireman 

...do... . 

OCCUPATIONS  IN  WHICH  75  PER  CENT  OR  MORE  OF  THE  OPERATIVES  RECEIVED 

LESS  THAN  20  CENTS  AN  HOUR. 


Mender  ' 

Female  . 
...do... . 

1,375 

373 

88 

247 

690 

832 

33 

1,358 

44 

140 

1,230 

34 

•     08 

482 

21 

176 
496 

48 

1,113 

237 

931 

233 

906 

150 

79 

74 

344 

136 

58 

257 

237 

29 

1,171 

6.5 
8.6 

18.6 
21.2 
1.1 
4.0 
2.3 
2.0 
9.1 
2.2 
2.3 

29.8 
33.0 
45.5 
30.8 
25.7 
24.2 
12.1 
12.6 
13.6 
12.9 
20.9 
8.8 
14.7 
7.4 
4.8 

n.9 

LO 

2.1 
0.8 
L7 

0.3 

L7 

0.1 

17.3 

30.7 
26.0 
51.1 
60.3 
67.2 
68.4 
36.4 
38.3 
34.1 
87.1 
65.8 
41.2 
39.7 
38.4 
95.2 

"38.5' 

70.8 
35.5 
65.0 

50.0 
91.4 
51.1 
81.4 
65.7 
75.7 
35.5 
65.4 
31.0 
68.5 

35.9 
51.7 

21.7 

14.4 
11.2 

2.3 

4.5 

3.6 

4.2 

89.4 

88.4 

47.7 

Drawer  in  * 

Card  stripper,  worsted 

Male.... 

...do 

...do 

...do... 

Scouring  machine  tender. . 

Dyehouse  hand 

Laborer 

'""6.3 

0.4 
0.9 
0,5 
3.0 
0.2 
2.3 

6.'i 

Dresser  tender 

Female . 
. .  .do. ... 

Hurler 

8.'3 

Mule  spinner,  woolen 

Card  stripper,  woolen 

...do 

Male.... 
...do 

Female  . 

Male.... 

Female  . 

Male.... 

Female  . 
...do 

Male.... 
Female . 
Male.... 

Female . 
Male.... 
Female  . 
Male.... 
Female  . 

Male 

Female  . 
Male.... 
Female . 
Male.... 

Female. 

Male 

Female . 

Finishing-machine  tender. . 
Do 

0.2 

2.3 

3.1 

7.7 

50.0 
88.2 
43.6 

Winder 

L5 
7.9 

Do 

0.8 

1.9 

Gill  box  tender  (French 

system). 
Do 

88.1 
60.5 

27.1 
63.7 
83.3 

49.7 

3.9 
48.8 

1.3 
44.3 
16.2 
64.5 
32.4 
69.0 
29.9 

64.1 
48.3 
70.4 

Drawing     frame     tender 

(French  system). 
Twister 

Do 

Drawing     frame     tender 

(Bradford  system). 
Do 

Frame  spinner 

Do.!^ 

Noble  comb  tender 

Do 

Pieeer 

8.1 

Do 

Card  tender,  woolen 

2.2 

Do-.... 

Gill  box    tender  (Brad- 
ford system). 
Do 

0.4 

L2 

Spooler 

Do 

2.9 

sio 

» In  this  group  only  59.7  per  cent  earned  16  cents  per  hour  and  over. 
« In  this  group  only  74.9  per  cent  earned  less  than  20  cents  an  hour. 
*  In  this  group  only  70.2  per  cent  earned  less  than  20  cents  an  hour. 


1006 


EEPOBT  OF  TAHIFF  BOi^D  ON  SCHEDULE   K. 


BEPOKT  OP  TABIFF  BOABB  ON"  SCHEDULE  K. 


1007 


For  the  group  of  occupations  in  which  operatives  received  an  hourly 
rate  of  16  cents  or  more,  the  order  of  the  occupations  is  based  upon 
tlie  proportion  of  operatives  receiving  25  cents  or  more  an  hour, 
llms  77.8  per  cent  of  the  loom  fixers  were  paid  at  least  25  cents  an 
Hour;  60  per  cent  of  the  engineers  were  paid  at  those  rates:  54.3 
per  cent  of  the  dresser  tenders,  etc.  . 

In  the  case  of  the  occupations  in  which  the  operatives  received  an 
hourly  rate  of  less  than  20  cents,  the  basis  for  the  order  is  thepropor- 

T^n^   operatives  receiving  less  than  15  cents  an  hour. 

Wlierever  an  occupation  is  shown  for  both  sexes,  the  rates  for  both 
sexes  are  given^  even  if  only  one  sex  would  naturally  foUow  in  the 
mven  order.  Tins  method  of  presentation  is  foUowed  in  order  to 
show  the  differences  in  the  rates  paid  to  males  and  those  paid  to 
females  m  the  same  occupation.  ^ 

Tlie  percentages  printed  in  heavy  type  show  the  concentration  of 
tliree-fourths  or  more  of  the  operatives  in  the  groups  indicated. 

EAENINOS   OF   WEAVERS. 

.  In  this  investigation  by  the  Tariff  Board  the  first  opportunity 
m  the  lustory  of  the  mdustir  in  the  United  States  has  been  afforded 
for  securmg  as  exact  a  knowledge  of  the  amount  a  weaver  earns  per 
pe^  hour  ^^™      ^  ^^^^^  "^  employees  working  at  fixed  rates 

weavers,      a  detailed  explanation  is  given  of  the  system  in  use  in  the 
woolen  and  worsted  mills  of  the  United  States  regulating  the  pay! 
ment  of  weavers.     It  is  shown  that  the  amount  of  money  paid  each 
week  to  the  weaver  as  given  on  the  pay  roUs  is  not  the  result  of  the 
actual  number  of  yards  woven  m  the  horns  reported  as  having  been 
worked  and  at  the  weaving  piece  price  per  yard.     Many  establish- 
ments keep  no  record  whatever  of  the  hours  each  day  spent  by  the 
weaver  m  the  miU.     For  these  and  the  reasons  stated  in  detail  at  page 
1,045,  the  exact  production  of  the  weaver  during  the  actual  number  of 
hours  worked,  with  tiie  earnings  at  the  piece  price  per  yard,  are  not 
known  by  the  mdl  officials  nor  by  the  weaver.  "^The  method  generally 
followed  m  order  to  obtam  a  basis  for  the  presentation  of  the  earnings 
of  weavers  is  to  copy  the  amounts  credited  to  each  weaver  for  two 
or  more  weeks.     An  hourly  rate  of  pay  is  derived  by  dividing  the 
total  amount  paid  to  the  weaver  by  the  number  of  hohrs  the  weaver 
was  in  the  miU  or  by  an  estmiate  of  the  number  of  hours  in  the  miUs 
where  no  record  is  kept.  ^  i'  ^  imus 

nf\h«  T!i^ff''l'^^^^  concerning  the  earnings  of  weavers,  the  agents 
of  the  Tanff  Board  used  a  special  loom  card  and  secured  an  exact 
record  of  the  number  of  yards  woven,  the  time  worked,   and  the 
m^Z^ITJ'ZJ^'fi  with  other  details  relating  to  each  fabric 
wll^o^^i  '^^'^?''1  H.^^?^    r,^'  ^^^  «^ac*^  earnings  per  hour 

were  readily  computed.     It  should  be  understood  that  tie  iates  per 
Hour   obtained  m  tliis  manner,  are  basedon  the  time  the  weaver  was 

rrt  h^i^fr''"^'  "^^^^^  earnings  are  based  on  the  proTctTon 
only,  as  he  is  not  paid  anything  for  idle  time  waiting  in  the  mill 
The  weaver^s  productive  capacity  and  earnings  cease  wlen  the  loom 


Weavers  lose  time  and  opportunity  to  work  by  having  to  wait  for 
warps,  filUng,  and  repairs  of  loom,  as  well  as  on  account  of  frequent 
industrial  depressions  and  the  semiseasonal  character  of  the  industry. 

The  following  tables  for  woolen  and  worsted  weavers  show  tne 
number  and  percentage  of  males  and  females  earning  specified  rates 
per  hour  upon  the  basis  of  actual  weaving  time  on  yardage  at  regular 
piece  rates  per  yard,  including  the  ordinary  stoppage  time  or  the 
looms  to  tie  oroken  ends  and  change  bobbins,  etc.,  but  not  includ- 
ing the  idle  time  waiting  for  warps,  filhng,  or  loom  fixers : 

Table  39. — Number  and  percentage  of  weavers  weaving  worsted  goods  in  the  United 
States  and  receiving  specified  rates  based  upon  actual  weaving  time  on  yardage  at  regular 
piece  rates  per  yaxdy  including  ordinary  stoppages  of  loom. 


Earnings  per  hour. 


Total. 


10  cents 

11  cents 

12  cents 

13  cents 

14  cents 

15  cents 

16  cents 

17  cents 

18  cents 

19  cents 

20  cents 

21  cents 

22  cents 

23  cents 

24  cents 

25  cents 

26  cents 

27  cents 

28  cents 

29  cents 

30  cents 

31  cents 

32  cents 

33  cents 

34  cents 

35  cents 


but  less 
but  less 
but  less 
but  less 
but  less 
but  less 
but  less 
but  less 
but  less 
but  less 
but  less 
but  less 
but  less 
but  less 
but  less 
but  less 
but  less 
but  less 
but  less 
but  less 
but  less 
but  less 
but  less 
but  less 
but  less 
or  over. 


than  11 
than  12 
than  13 
than  14 
than  15 
than  16 
than  17 
than  18 
than  19 
than  20 
than  21 
than  22 
than  23 
than  24 
than  25 
than  26 
than  27 
than  28 
than  29 
than  30 
than  31 
than  32 
than  33 
than  34 
than  35 


cents.. 

cents.. 

cents.. 

cents.. 

cents.. 

cents . . , 

cents . . , 

cents... 

cents... 

cents . . , 

cents.., 

cents... 

cents... 

cents... 

cents... 

cents... 

cents... 

cents.., 

cents... 

cents... 

cents... 

cents . . . 

cents... 

cents... 

cents... 


Total. 


Nomber. 


3,182 


65 

100 

117 

158 

183 

192 

232 

258 

236 

254 

226 

212 

231 

183 

135 

100 

86 

64 

S8 

SO 

26 

8 

3 

1 

2 

2 


Per  cent. 


100.0 


2.05 
3.14 
3.68 
4.97 
6.75 


6.04 
7.29 
8.11 
7.42 
7.98 
7.10 
6.66 
7.26 
5.75 
4.24 
3.14 
2.70 
2.01 
1.82 
1.57 
0.82 
a  25 
0.10 
0.03 
0.06 
0.06 


Males. 


Females. 


Number. 


1,400 


4 
3 

15 

14 

27 

35 

52 

64 

77 

108 

115 

142 

165 

140 

109 

70 

65 

60 

52 

45 

24 

6 

3 

1 

2 

2 


Percent. 


44.0 


0.29 
0.22 
1.07 
1.00 
1.93 
2.50 
3.71 
4.51 
5.50 
7.72 
&21 
10.14 
11.79 
10.00 
7.79 
6.00 
4.64 
4.29 
3.71 
3.21 
1.71 
a  43 
0.22 
0.07 
0.14 
0.14 


Number. 


1,782 


61 

97 

102 

144 

156 

157 

180 

194 

159 

146 

111 

70 

66 

43 

26 

30 

21 

4 

6 

5 

2 

2 


Percent. 


56.0 


3.42 
5.44 
5.72 
a  08 
&76 
8.81 
10.10 
10.89f 
8.92 
8.19 
6.24 
3.93 
3.71 
2.41 
1.4C 
1.68 
1.18 
0.22 
a  34 
0.28 
0.11 

an 


Average  earnings  per  hour: 

Males 

• 

$0. 2224 

Females 

1717 

A 1 1  weavers 

1971 

-••IPIP 


■■« 


1008 


EEPOKT  OF  TABIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K* 


«Sof.A  7^"^^  «nrf  percw^e  of  weavers  weaving  woolen  aoods  in  th>  TTr.it.A 
States  andrecexvina  specijied  rates  based  upon  actual  wiv^^^^JLt„^  IlZtZ 
puce  rates  per  yarl  {ncluMng  ordinary  stoppages  oflTom  ^       ^  ^  ^^""^ 


Earnings  per  hour. 

Total. 

Males. 

Females. 

Number. 

Per  cent. 

Number. 

Per  cent. 

Number. 

Percent. 

Total 

1   ^oo 

847 

eas 

545 



l,S»Z           IUU.U 

39.2 

w  vKuixi  Dut  less  tnan  1 1  cents 

11  cents  but  less  than  12  cents  

10           0.72 

5 

28 
30 
31 
31 
63 
61 
82 
92 
96 
73 
55 
56 
38 
36 
28 
19 

9 
7 

6 

0.59 

5 

0.92 

12  cents  but  less  than  13  cents 

49 
56 
59 
108 
106 
139 
144 
160 
121 
96 
84 
60 
50 
37 
32 
15 
9 
10 

A. «« 
3.52 
4.02 
4.24 
7.76 
7.61 
9.99 
10.34 
11.49 
8.69 
6.90 
6.03 
4.96 
3.59 
2.66 
2.30 
1.06 
0.65 
0.72 

3.31  J             6 

1.10 

IScentsbutless  than  14  cents...         

8.54 
3.66 
3.66 
7.44 
7.20 
9.68 
10.86 
11.33 
8.62 
6.49 
6.61 
4.49 
4.25 
3.31 
2.24 
1.06 
0.83 
0.71 

19 

25 
28 

45 
45 
57 
62 
64 
48 
41 
28 
31 
14 

9 
13 

6 

2 

4 

3.49 

14  cents  but  less  than  15  cents.            

4.59 

15  cents  but  less  than  16  cents              

5.14 

16  cents  but  less  than  17  cents . 

8.25 

17  cents  but  less  than  18  cents .            

8.25 

18  cents  but  less  than  19  cents .            

10.46 

19  cents  but  less  than  20  cents . 

9.54 

20  cents  but  less  than  21  cents 

11.74 

21  cents  but  less  than  22  cents . 

8.81 

22  cents  but  less  than  23  cents              

7.52 

23  cents  but  less  than  24  cents 

5.14 

24  cents  but  less  than  25  cents              

5.69 

26  cents  but  less  than  26  cents . 

2.57 

26  cents  but  less  than  27  cents . 

1.65 

27  cents  but  less  than  28  cents 

2.39 

^  cents  but  less  than  29  cents.. . 

1.10 

29  cents  but  less  than  30  cents . 

a  37 

30  cents  but  less  than  31  cents 

0.73 

OA  \xu\M  uubiess  man  iz  cents. 

32  cents  but  less  than  .t!l  opntQ  

3 
1 

0.22 

**'***•• 

3' 

"h  kk 

33  cents  but  less  than  34  cents  

34  cents  but  less  than  35  cents.  

35  cents  and  over ' " "  " 

0.07 

1 

0.12 

r 

Average  earnings  per  hour: 

Males 

Females ]. 

All  weavers 


10.1912 

1875 

1904 


«}.Jw^ii!*'"*''''T^  summary  tables  for  worsted  and  woolen  weavers 

Table  Al.-Numher  and  percentage  of  worsted  weavers  in  the  United  States,  by  specified 

rates  of  earnings  per  hour  and  by  sex.  '  ^  speajiea 


Bates  per  hour. 


Males. 


Total 

10 cents,  but  less  than  15  cents. 
15  cents,  but  less  than  20  cents. 
20  cents,  but  less  than  25  cents 
25  cents,  but  less  than  30  cents. 
30  cents  and  over 


- 


Number. 


1,400 


Percent. 


Females. 


Total. 


100.0 


Number. 


X|  iOji 


03 
336 
671 

38 


4.5 
24.0 
47.9 
20.9 

2.7 


Per  cent. 


Number. 


100.0 


3.182 


Percent. 


560 

31.4 

836 

46.9 

316 

17.8 

66 

3.7 

4 

0.2 

623 

1,172 

987 

358 

42 


100.0 

19.6 
36.9 
31.0 
11.2 
1.3 


EEPOBT  OF  TAKIFF  BOARD  OX  SCHEDULE  K. 


1009' 


Table  42.— -Number  and  percentage  of  woolen  weavers  in  the  United  States,  by  specif ed 

rates  of  earnings  per  hour  and  by  sex. 


m 

Males. 

Females. 

Total. 

Rates  per  hour. 

Number. 

Per  cent 
of  total. 

Number. 

Per  cent 
of  total. 

Number. 

Per  cen*. 

'           Total 

847 

100.0 

545 

100.0 

1,392 

100.0 

10  cents  but  less  than  15  cents 

125 

394 

258 

G9 

1 

14.8 

46.5 

30.5 

8.1 

0.1 

83 
263 
162 

34 
3 

15.2 

48.2 

29.7 

6.2 

0.6 

208 
657 
420 
103 
4 

14.9 

15  cents  but  less  than  20  cents 

47.2 

20  cents  but  less  than  25  cents 

30.2 

25  cents  but  less  than  30  cents 

7.4 

30  cents  and  over 

0.3 

The  detailed  and  summary  tables  for  worsted  weavers  by  sex  show 
that  of  the  total  of  3,182  worsted  weavers,  1,400,  or  44  per  cent,  were 
males  and  1,782,  or  56  per  cent,  were  females. 

Nme  hundred  and  sixty-three,  or  68.8  per  cent,  of  the  male  weavers, 
and  382,  or  21.4  per  cent  of  the  females,  earned  20  cents,  but  less 
than  30  cents,  per  hour,  or  at  the  rates  of  $12  to  $18  for  60  hours'  work. 
Three  hundred  and  ninety-nine,  or  28.5  per  cent  of  the  male  weavers,  and 
1,396,  or  78.3  per  cent  or  the  female  weavers,  earned  10  cents  per  hour 
and  over,  but  less  than  20  cents,  or  at  the  rates  of  $6  to  $11.99  for  60 
hours'  work.  The  detailed  table  shows  that  4  males  and  61  femalea 
earned  10  cents,  but  less  than  1 1  cents,  per  hour,  and  that  63  males,  or  4.5 
per  cent,  earned  less  than  15  cents  an  nour,  while  560  females,  or  31.48 
per  cent,  earned  less  than  15  cents  an  hour.  In  the  next  higher 
group  336  males,  or  24  per  cent,  and  836  females,  or  46.9  per  cent, 
earned  15  cents,  but  less  than  20  cents,  an  hour. 

The  fact  that  this  table  shows  the  earnings  of  so  large  a  proportion 
of  females  to  be  lower  than  the  earnings  of  more  than  two-thirds  of 
the  males  while  elsewhere  the  efficiency  of  worsted  female  weavers  is 
shown  to  be  greater  than  the  males  in  9  of  the  18  establishments 
seems  contradictory.  In  most  of  the  estabUshments,  however,  where 
the  efficiency  of  female  weavers  was  greater' than  that  of  the  males, 
the  number  of  females  was  small.  It  was  also  found  that  many  of  the 
female  weavers  were  weaving  low-price  fabrics,  for  which  earnings 
would  be  low,  although  their  relative  efficiency  might  be  greater  than 
that  of  the  males.  In  two  worsted  mills,  where  the  average  earnings 
of  weavers  were  low,  308  looms  were  operated  by  males  and  2,853 
looms  were  operated  by  females.  In  botn  mills  the  average  efficiency 
was  less  than  70  per  cent,  but  the  females  in  one  of  the  mills  had  an 
efficiency  one-hair  of  1  per  cent  higher  than  that  of  the  males  and  in 
the  other  the  female  efficiency  exceeded  that  of  the  males  by  2J  per 
cent.  In  those  mills  the  great  majority  of  the  weavers  did  not  earn 
over  $8  per  week. 

The  d!etailed  and  summary  table  for  woolen  weavers,  by  sex,  shows 
that  of  the  total  of  1,392  woolen  weavers  847,  or  60.8  per  cent,  were 
males  and  545,  or  39.2  per  cent,  were  females.  Three  hundred  and 
twenty-seven,  or  38.6  per  cent,  of  the  male  weavers  and  196,  or  36.0  per 
cent,  of  the  females  earned  20  cents,  but  less  than  30  cents,  per  hour,  or 
at  the  rates  of  $12  to  $18  per  60-hour  week.  Five  hundred  and  nine- 
teen, or  61.3  per  cent,  of  tlie  male  weavers  and  346,  or  63.5  per  cent, 
of  the  female  weavers  earned  10  cents  per  hour  and  over,  but  less  than 


1010 


BEPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  OK  SCHEDULE  K. 


20  cents  or  at  the  rates  of  $6  to  111.99  for  60  hours'  work  The 
wl  wh^n^^  shows  that  there  were  but  10  weavei^,  5  male*  and  5 
female,  who  earned  10  cents  an  hour,  and  125  males  and  83~females 

earning  20  cents  but  less  than  30  cents,  an  hour  was  greater  for  the 

^T«nH^IVt'l*''*?  'T  tl^Voe'e^  weaver,  the  percentages  be  n| 

I-i^^  ^;  '.«^?^f*T?^^-  ^f  ^^^  ^f ™*'«"  *^«  ^^^^  ^"^the  case, 
as  36.0  per  cent  of  the  woolen  and  21.4  per  cent  of  the  worsted 

weavers  earned  20  cents,  but  less  than  30  ceSts,  an  hour 

In  some  estabhshments  the  weavers  whose  earnings  in  4  weeks" 
^ount  to  a  specified  sum    and  who  have  not  beefabsent  from 

In  establishments  where  premiums  were  paid  the  number  of  weavers 
Inf  *f  ^H  P/^r""^  ™  f«»-time  periods^anged  from  10  to  30  j" 
cent  of  the  total  number  of  weavers.    As  ap^ed  to  aU  the  weaviS 

S^rrn/LPtl*"  P^^^i»^  were  equivalent  to  5  per  cenTon  the 
earnings  of  each  weaver,  or  60  cents  per  week  if  the  earSigs  amounted 

WEAVING    PIECK    BATES    IK    WOOLESf    AND    WORSTED    MILLS    IN    THE 

UNITED    STATES. 

,  The  foUowing  tables  show  the  piece  rates  per  yard  paid  for  weaving 
ma  number  of  woolen  and  woreted  milkii  the'^uS  Stlt^s" 
Jw  f^  P'T'^*!  *''^  ?**^  P^^  ^  12  woolen  mills,Tnd  Table  44 
t^^T^t^^A'^n^'^'^T'^I''^^  ^^"^  prevail  in  four  worsted  milLs, 
and  Table  4o  the  scales  of  9  woreted  mfils,  the  first  two  tables  beLoi 
for  one-loom  and  the  last  one  for  two-loom  work.  ^ 

WOOLBN    QOODS— ONE    LOOM    TO    A    WEAVER. 

Table  i3.— Weaving  piece  price  per  yard  by  eatabliihmenU. 


Nnm- 
berof 
picks 
per 
inch. 

Estabrifhinnit— 

— — 

No.l. 

No.  2. 

No.  3. 

No.  4. 

No.  5. 

No.  6. 

No.  7. 

No.  8. 

No.  9. 

No.  10. 

No.  11. 

Nal2. 

17 

Cam. 

Cents. 
3.62 

CeMs. 

(knt». 

CkUi. 

Cents. 

Cents. 

Cents. 

Cents. 

Cents. 

Cents. 

Cents. 

18 

19 

4.14 
4.24 

""s.'ss' 

*"*3.'36' 

\ 

20 

21 

4.34 

3.93 

3.030 
3.806 

5.05 

*'*3.c6' 

'i'.m 

"z.n 

I 

3.14  1 l".'^'.'. 

22 

23 

4.55 

4.14 

3.983 
4.160 

5.45 

"3.96" 

"3.' 90* 

"4.13' 

"3. si' 

1 

24 

m 

4.65 

4. 45 
4.55 

4.356 
4.532 

*  s.'ts" 

"  i'26" 

i'w" 

'■'4."5i' 

'*'8.*88* 

"*4.'46' 

*  '  *  * 

36 

27 

4.85 

4.66 
4.86 

4.719 
4.8SI5 

6.15 

"'  \ 

4.50 

4.50 

"4."89* 

**"4."26* 

"4."66' 

28 

29 

i.28 

4.96 
5.17 

5.082 
5.258 

6.44    

;:::::::| 

"4."  80' 

"'4."86" 

'"'fi.'ie" 

■**4.'64" 

"i'so'i 

30 

31 

L'm 

5.27 
5.38 

5.446 

5.621 

6.82 

6.40        5.90 

's.'io" 

's.'io' 

'"i.'fti" 

'"5.*6i'| 'fi.io' 

32 

33 

i.m 

5.48 

5.58 

S.80B 
5.984 

7.08 

6.60        6.10 

"5.40 

's.'io 

'"6.'62' 

"6.'38"|'"6."46" 

34 

6.4i 

5.69  1 

6. 171  i 

7.46 

6.90  1 

"6.'4d  1 

"'Xto' 

"5."  76' 

"ias" 

'"5.'77'1 

"s.'to'I 

------- 

■mm 


BEPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


1011- 


WOOLEN   GOODS — ONE   LOOM  TO  A    WEAVER — continued. 

Table  43. — Weaving  piece  price  per  yard  hy  establishments — Continued. 


Num- 

Establisbment— 

ber  of 

picks 

per 
inch. 

No.  1. 

No.  2. 

No.  3. 

No.  4. 

No.  5. 

No.  0. 

No.  7. 

No.  S. 

No.  9. 
Cents. 

No.  10. 

No.  11. 

No.  12. 

Ceras. 

Cents. 

Cents. 

Cents. 

Cents. 

Cenis. 

CerUs. 

Cents. 

CerOs. 

Cents. 

Cents. 

35 

5.79 
6.89 

6.347 
6.534 

36 

6.72 

7.71 

7.30 

6.70 

6.00 

6.00 

6.76 

6.14 

6.00 

37 

6.05 
6.21 

6.710 

6.897 

38 

7.14 

8.07 

7.60 

7.00 

6.30 

6.30 

7.15 

6.51 

6.30 

39 

6.57 

C.72 

7.073 
7.260 

40 

7.55 

8.31 

7.90 

7.30 

6.  GO 

6.60 

7.52 

6.89 

6.60 

6.60 

41 

6.83 
7. 09 

7.436 
7.G23 

42 

7.86 

8.67 

8.30 

^7.60 

6.80 

6.80 

7.89 

7.27 

6.80 

6.90 

43 

7.08 
8.00 

7.799 

7.986 

44 

8.27 

8.88 

.  8.60 

.  7.90 

7.10 

7.10 

8.27 

7.64 

7.10 

7.20 

45 

8.162 
8.349 

46 

8.69 

7.76 

9.23 

8.90 

,  8.20 

.  7.40 

7.40 

8.65 

8.02 

7.40 

7.50 

47 

8.525 
8.712 

48 

9.00 

7.96 

9.42 

,  9.30 

,  8.50 

.  7.70 

7.70 

9.02 

8.40 

7.70 

7.80 

49 

8.888 
9.075 

50 

9.31 

8.28 

9.77 

9.60 

8.80 

7.90 

7.90 

9.40 

8.77 

8.00 

8.10 

52 

9.72 

8.48 

9.438 

10.11 

9.90 

9.10 

8.20 

8.20 

9.78 

9.15 

8.30 

8.40 

54 

10.13 

8.79 

9.801 

10.46 

10.40 

9.60 

8.40 

8.40 

10.15 

9.53 

8.70 

8.70 

56 

10.44 

9.00 

10.164 

10.80 

10.70 

9.80 

8.70 

8.70 

10.52 

9.90 

9.00 

9.00 

58 

10.96 

9.31 

10.527 

11.15 

11.00 

10.10 

8.90 

8.90 

10.90 

10.27 

9.30 

9.30 

60 

11.27 

9.62 

10.890 

11.50 

11.30 

10.40 

9.10 

9.10 

11.28 

10.64 

9.60 

9.60 

62 

11.58 

9.83 

11.253 

11.85 

11.70 

10.70 

9.40 

11.65 

11.02 

9.90 

64 

12.10 

10.14 

11.616 

12.19 

12.00 

11.00 

9.60 

12.03 

11.40 

10.20 

66 

12.41 

11.979 

12.54 

12.30 

11.30 

9.90 

12.40 

11.78 

10.50 

68 

12.72 

12.342 

12.87 

12.80 

11.70 

10.10 

12.78 

12.16 

10.80 

70 

13.13 

12.705 

13.23 

13.10 

12.00 

10.30 

13.16 

12.53 

11.10 

72 

13.54 

13.068 

13.57 

13.40 

12.30 

10.60 

13.54 

12.90 

11.40 

74 

13.431 

13.93 

13.80 

12.00 

10.90 

13.91 

13.28 

11.70 

76 

13.794 

14.27 

14.10 

12.90 

11.20 

14.28 

13.66 

12.00 

78 

1 

14. 157 
14.520 

14.62 
14.96 
15.31 
15.65 
16.01 
16.35 
16.70 
17.04 
17.39 
17.73 
18.08 
18.43 
18.78 
19.12 
19.47 

14.40 
14.90 
15.20 
15.50 
15.90 
16.20 
16.50 
16.80 
17.30 
17.60 
17.90 
18.30 
18.60 
18.90 
19.30 

13.20 
13.60 
13.90 
14.20 
14.50 
14.80 
15.10 
15.40 
15.80 
16.10 
16.40 
16.70 
17.00 
17.30 
17.60 

11.50 
11.80 

14.66 
15.04 
15.41 
15.79 
16.16 
16.54 
16.92 
17.30 
17.67 
18.04 
18.42 
18.80 

14.03 
14.41 
14.79 
15.16 
15.54 
15.92 
16.29 
16.66 
17.05 
17.42 
17.80 
18.18 

12  30 

80 

82 

84 

1 

86 

1 

88 

1 

90 

1               1 

92 i 

94 

1 

; 

96 

98 

100. . . . 

....:;:.! 

102.... 

1 

104.... 

::;:::::i:::::'::  :;;: 

106....' 

1 

No.  1.— Speed  of  looms,  90  to  96  picks  per  minute.  Ten  per  cent  additional  paid  for  l\  run  and  heavier 
filling.  A  premium  ranging  from  5  per  cent  on  earnings  of  $40  for  4  weeks  to  26  per  cent  on  earnings  of 
160  for  4  weeks  is  also  paid. 

No.  2.— Speed  of  looms,  86  to  95  picks  per  minute.    Two  mills  additional  i>aid  for  each  shuttle  above  4. 

No.  3.— Speed  of  looms,  94  picks  per  minute.  Five  mills  additional  paid  for  IJ  run  or  less  filling  and  for 
6  or  more  shuttles.    Also  5  mills  additional  for  fancy  cloakings  and  suitings. 

No.  4.— Speed  of  looms,  98  picks  per  minute. 

No.  5.— Speed  of  looms,  90  picks  per  minute.  One-half  cent  additional  paid  for  5  shuttles  or  more  and 
when  warp  contains  mohair.  One  cent  additional  paid  for  14  to  19  harness  work  and  2  cents  additional 
lor  20  harness  and  over. 

No.  6.— Speed  of  looms,  90  to  96  picks  per  minute.  Three  mills  additional  paid  for  each  shuttle  above 
4  when  more  than  one  colored  filling  is  used. 

No.  7.— Speed  of  looms,  92  to  110  picks  per  minute. 

No.  8.— Speed  of  looms,  90  picks  per  minute.  One-half  cent  additional  paid  for  5  shuttles  or  more  and 
When  warp  contains  mohair.  One  cent  additional  paid  for  14  to  19  harness  work  and  2  cents  additional  for 
20  harness  and  over. 

No.  9.— Speed  of  looms,  90  picks  per  minute.  A  premium  is  paid  ranging  from  5  per  cent  on  earnings  of 
137.40  for  4  weeks  to  10  and  17  per  cent  on  earnings  of  $57.20. 

No.  10.— Speed  of  looms,  100  to  1 10  picks  per  minute.  A  premium  is  paid  ranging  from  5  per  cent  on  earn- 
ings of  $37.40  for  4  weeks  to  10  and  17  per  cent  on  earnings  of  $57.20. 

No.  11.— Speed  of  looms,  95  to  100  picks  per  minute. 

No.  12.— Speed  of  looms,  100  to  105  picks  per  minute. 


1012 


KEPOBT  OP  TARIFF   BOABD   01^  SCHEDULE   K. 


WORSTED  GOODS — ONE   LOOM  TO   A    WEAVER. 

Table  44, —  Weaving  piece  price  per  yard,  by  establishments. 


Number  of  picks  per  inch. 


m 

32. 

24 

26 

28. 

30. 

32. 

34. 

36. 

38. 

40. 

41. 

42. 

43 

44. 

45. 

46. 

47- 

18. 

49. 
50. 
51. 
62. 
63. 
54. 
65. 
66., 
67.. 
68.. 
69.. 
60.. 
61.. 
62.. 
63-. 
64.. 
65.. 


67. .. 
68... 
69... 
70... 
72... 
74... 
76. . . 
78... 
80... 
82... 
84--. 
86... 
88.-. 
90... 
92... 
94... 
96... 

INj.  « . 

100.. 
102.. 
104.. 
106.- 
108.. 
110- . 
112.. 
114- . 
116.- 
118.. 
120.. 


<. . . 


Establishments- 


No.  1.        No.  2. 


Cents. 


6.00 

6.20 

6.30 

6.50 

6.m 

6.80 

6.90 

7.10 

7.20 

7.40 

7.50 

7.70 

7.80 

8.00 

8.10 

8.25 

8.40 

8.50 

8.70 

8.90 

9.00 

9.20 

9.30 

9.50 

9.(;o 

9.80 
9.90 
10.10 
10.20 
10.40 
10.50 


Cmta. 
4.05 
4.45 
4.75 
5.15 
6.44 
5.82 

ao8 

6. 40 
6.71 
7.07 
7.31 


7.88 
'8.23 


8.42 
'8*77 

'i'ii 


9.46 
*9.'86' 


10.15 

io.hb' 
io.'si' 
ii-'ig' 
ii"54' 
'ii.'87' 

'i2.'23" 
12.57 
12.93 
13.27 
13.62 
13.96 
14.31 
14.65 
15.01 
15.35 
15.70 
16.04 
16.39 
16.73 
17.08 
17.43 
17.78 
18.12 
18.47 
18.81 
19.16 
19.50 
19.86 
20.20 
20.55 
20.89 


No.  3. 


Centt. 
4.09 
4.51 
4.82 
6.23 
6.53 
5.92 
6.19 
6.59 
6.85 
7.22 
7.47 


7.84 

"i'oe' 


8.42 

*8.'62 


8.98 

'e.'aa 
"9."e9' 


10.05 

"i6.'4i 


10.77 

ii.'ii 
"ii.'49' 
ii.'ss 

"*i2."26' 

'ii'se' 

12.92 

13.29 

13.64 

14.00 

14.35 

14.72 

15.07 

15.44 

15.79 

1&16 

16.51 

16.87 

17.22 

17.69 

17.95 

18.31 

18.66 

19.03 

19.38 

19.74 

20.09 

20.47 

20.82 

21.18 

21.53 


No.  4. 


Cents.  , 
3.95 
4.36 
4.6S 

.  5.05 
5.34 
5.72 
5.98 
6.36 

I  6.61 
6.97 
7.21 


7.57 


7.78 


8.13 
'8.'32 


8.67 


9.01 


9.36 
"9.' 70 
'16.05 


10.40 

"16*75 

"11.09 

"11.' 44 

"11.' 78 

■  •  •  •  ■  ■  . 

12.13 

12. 47 

12.83 

13.17 

13.62 

13.86 

14.21 

14.55 

14.91 

15.25 

15.60 

15.94 

16.29 

16.63 

16.98 

17.33 

17.68 

18.02 

18.37 

18.71 

19.06 

19.40 

19.76 

20.10 

20.45 

20.79 


No.  1.— Speed  of  looms,  90  to  100  picks  per  minute. 

No"  3"-sSSd  o  l^ml'  mFt^lFl\  T"'"**^=  *  ^""^  P^""  y^^  additional  paid  for  fancy  weave. 

picks  p^r  miSit?.  ^   ^       additional  paid  for  fancy  weaves  and  on  all  looms  running  less  than  100 


■! !!! Ml.  111! ■■■■Ill 


EEPORT   OF   TARIFF  BOARD   ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


1013 


WORSTED   GOODS — TWO    LOOMS   TO   A   WEAVER. 

Table  45. —  Weaving  piece  price  per  yard,  by  establishments. 


Establishment — 

# 

Number  of  picks  per  inch. 

No.  1. 

No.  2. 

No.  3. 

No.  4. 

No.  5. 

No.  6. 

No.  7. 

No.  8. 

No.  9. 

Cents. 

Cents. 

Cents. 

Cents. 

Cents. 

Cents. 

Cents. 

Cents. 

CeiUs. 

20  

1.80 

1.63 
1.79 
1.95 

1.18 
1.29 
1.42 

1.41 
1.54 
1.69 

22                               

24 

25 

2.26 

26     .          .          

2.10 
2.28 

1.53 
1.67 

1.82 
1.98 

28                                      

2.40 

1.69 

29 

1.70 

1.76 

30                

2.60 

2.80 

3.46 

2.44 

1.78 

2.ii 

1.82 

31                            

1.87 

32             

2.80 

2.90 

3.50 

2.60 

1.91 

2.26 

1.93 

33 

2.00 

2.00 

34 

3.66 

3.60 

2.77 

2.02 

2.39 

2.06 

35                               

3.16 

2.12 

36 

2.10 

3.10 

3.70 

2.93 

2.13 

2.64 

2.19 

37                .               

2.23 

38   .           

3.00 

3.30 

3.90 

3.10 

2.26 

2.68 

2.30 

39                 

2.38 

40 

3.50 

2.40 

3.10 

3.50 

4.00 

3.26 

2.38 

2.83 

2.42 

41 

2.49 

42 

43 

44 

45 

46 

47 

48 

49 

60 

51 

52 

53 

64 

65 

56 

67 

58 

59 

60 

61 

62 

63 

64 

3.70 

2.56 

3.36 

3.66 

4.16 

3.42 

2.50 

2.96 

2.55 
2.60 
2.66 
2.73 
2.79 
2.85 
2.90 
2.96 
3.03 
3.09 
3.15 
3.22 
3.26 
3.33 
3.39 
3.52 
3.57 
3.63 
3.69 
3.76 
3.82 
3.88 
3.93 

■y.m 

"2."  80' 

"3.' 40 

"3.' 76' 

*4.'26" 

"3.' 58 

"'2.61' 

3.10 

""3.' go" 

""3.96" 

"4.' 46' 

"3.' 74' 

"2.' 73 

"3.' 24 

'"4.26" 

"'3*66' 

"3.' 76' 

""4."  66 

"4.' 66' 

"3.' 96 

"2.' 85' 

"3.' 38 

"3.16' 

"*3.'96 

'4."  26* 

'4.' 86 

"4.' 08 

'2.' 97 

"3.' 53 

"4.' 50 

"3.' 26" 

4.00 

"*4.'46' 

"'"4.' 66 

4.24 

""3.'69' 

"3.' 67 

"4.' 86' 

"'4.' 16" 

"*4."56" 

"5.' 66 

'"4.' 46 

'3.' 26' 

"i'so" 

"s.'-io' 

'"4.' 46' 

""4."  76' 

'5.' 26' 

"4.' 46 

*3."32' 

'"*3."95' 

'"4."  56" 

"4."  96' 

'"'5.' 46' 

"4.' 71" 

'3.' 44' 

"""4.68" 

"5.' 66' 

"3.' 76' 

"4."  76' 

"*5.'66' 

'5.' 66' 

'"'4.' 89' 

"3.' 56' 

"'"4.'23' 

"*4.'86' 

'"5.16" 

""5.' 76' 

5.64 

"3.' 68" 

'"4."36 

"4.66 

'"'6.'66' 

"'5.' 36' 

"'5.96' 

"5.22 

"  "s.'so" 

"'4.' 52 

65 

4.00 

66 

67 

68 

69 

70 

5.26 

5.50 

6.16 

6.38 

3.91 

4.65 

4.06 
4.12 
4.19 
4.25 
4.30 

"4.' 26' 

"5.'36' 

"5.' 76' 

"6.' 26' 

"5.54' 

"4.64' 

"'4.'8a" 

"6.' 76" 

""5.' 66' 

"'5.' 96' 

'""6."  56" 

5.70 

"4.I5' 

"""4.' 93' 

71 

4.36 

72 

4.56 

5.80 

6.16 

6.76 

5.86 

4.27 

5.07 

4.42 

73 

4.49 

74 

7.16 

6.66 

6.36 

6.96 

6.63 

4.40 

5.22 

4.55 

76 

6.20 

-  6.50 

7.10 

6.18 

4.52 

4.35 

78 

6.30 

6.70 

7.20 

6.36 

4.64 

5.50 

80 

4.90 

6.50 

6.90 

7.40 

6.51 

4.75 

5.63 

82 

6.70 

7.00 

7.60 

6.68 

4.88 

5.78 

84 

8.66 

5.26 

6.90 

7.20 

7.80 

6.84 

4.99 

5.91 

86 

7.10 

7.50 

8.00 

7.00 

5.12 

6.06 

88 

7.30 

7.70 

8.20 

7.17 

5.23 

6.20 

90 

7.50 

7.90 

8.40 

7.32 

5.34 

6.34 

92 

7.70 

8.00 

8.50 

7.49 

94 

7.90 

8.20 

8.70 

7.65 

96 

8.00 

8.30 

8.90 

7.82 

98 

8.20 

8.50 

9.10 

7.97 

100 

8.40 

8.80 

9.30 

8.14 

102 

9.50 

104 

9.70 

ofWkorvo        IT    r^.... 

•>  1 0    <>t1 

t     iTk     1 

n              f 

v> 

a42,  G2-2,  vol  2 2G 


1014 


BEPOBT  OF   TARIFF  BOABD   ON   SCHEDULE   K. 

WORSTED  GOODS-^WO  LOOMS  TO  A  WEAVER--€Ontinued. 

Table  45.~Wmmng  piece  price  per  yard,  by  establishments-Contmued. 


4 

Number  of  picks  per  inch. 

Establishment- 

No.  1. 

No.  2. 

No.  3. 

No.  4. 

No.  5. 

No.  6. 

No.  7. 

No.  8. 

No.  9. 

106 

108 ""'.'''"■ 

Cents. 

Cents. 

Cents. 
9.00 

Cents. 
9.30 
9.40 
9.80 

Cents. 

9.90 
10.00 
10.40 
10.80 
11.10 

Cents. 

Cents. 

Cents. 

Cents. 

112 

116 :."; 

120 



9.50 



^o-  l-fP^<i  of  looms,  1 12  picks  a  minute. 
No.  f  — Bpeed  of  looms,  140  picks  a  minute. 
No.  3.-Speed  oflooms,  126  to  140  picks  a  minute. 
No.  4.-Specd  oflooms,  106  to  113  picks  a  minute. 
No,  5.-Spe«'d  of  ooms,  106  to  1 13  picks  a  minute. 
No.  6.-Siwd  of  locnis,  100  to  110  picks  a  minute. 

FHtogViS^mdS;!,^  Filling  2/16  and  under.  10  per  cent  extra. 

extra.'  Double  beam  'u^EdSe  &  ^ZVn^.ir't'f'J^.r'^1"'^^^^^^ 


Plain  weave. 

Faney  weave  under  10  harness. 

Fancy  weave  10  harness  and  over. 


eamincs  from  J«..iO  to  148.    .\n  additionii  n^'iiim'nri'V^^i^  ^^'"t?.""  '"  ^*'-^  ?"">  '"  V"  "-'"■  "■» 
extra  for  every  dollar  over  «48    """"'""^  premium  oj  5  per  cent  is  paid  tor  earnings  oJ  $48  anS  1  per  cent 

l>&^7^S.t  aUoweTfeJfvfr^llSSTorlr^'™'' "'™' "'"'  "'""^'^  J>^"»  "^  '"  °'"=  '■  "--P'  '"^t 

«tehtswg:S'nL'lSTi"'F„tpiS".X?ct  wk^^^  ^,""'°'«-  ""  "--vy 

g2^d,  »d  .yea  eents  ,.r  yard  lo?cach  1&  l^'.^tif  ^^l^^^J^^^^  eJnT^.^'.Sffp^aKrSS 

In  the  United  States  the  ahnost  universal  method  of  payment  of 

weavers  IS  by  the  piece— a  fixed  rate  per  yard— with  no  pavCnt  for 

ime  lost  by  the  weaver  through  no  fault  of  his,  as  in  the  S^f  wits 

for  warps,  filhng    or  for  repairs  of  loom.     However,  when  weaW 

patterns  or  samples  the  weaver  is  paid  a  fixed  hourly  rate  ''^''^ 

th^  L^hZZ'lW^'  y^'^P^ilo  a  weaver  varies  primarUy  with 
the  number  of  picks  per  inch  m  the  fabric,  the  speed  of  the  loom 
and  the  number  of  looms  operated.     These  kre  the^principal  factora 

footnotes  to  T«hlil.°'5r**VT='  *"  7^"  ^*'  ^^f"  ^^^  '•''^''•■ence  to  the 
S  sCtflL  fL  .  f  '^ti  *°r,r  ^'  «"<'^««  number  of  harness,  number 
of  shuttles,  the  color  of  the  filhng,  and  the  kind  of  filling.  In  some 
mills  however,  these  smaller  factors  are  not  considered,  ^hen  a<rak. 
m  other  mills  weavers  are  paid  a  premium  of  5  per  cent  and 
upward  on  earmngs  above  specified  amounts  for  four^weeks 

located  in  4! JfJ"?^  A^if  ''^f]?'^  ^•"'  IS^d'fferent  woolen  miUs 
West  England,  the  Middle  Eastern  States,  and  the  Middle 

loom  TTv^hI?»'?  ^'^^  *  r^''^^l'>'^^ost  universally  attends  one 
loom,  so  the  data  are  shown  in  Table  4.3  for  one-loom  work  only 
^onTT  ?^f  °  the  footnotes  discloses  the  fact  thatin  the  several  establish 
ments  the  speeds  of  the  looms  vary  considerably. 


EEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


1015 


To  show  the  range  of  piece  rates  paid  for  weaving  woolen  goods, 
take  the  rates  shown  for  a  fabric  having  60  picks  per  inch.  The  basic 
prices  paid  j)er  yard  are  as  follows : 


Establishment. 


No.  4 

No.  5 
No.tl 
No.  1 
No.  3 
No.  6 


Piece 

Speed  of 

price  per 
yard 

looms 

(picks  per 

(cents). 

minute). 

9.77 

98 

9.00 

90-110 

9.40 

90 

9.31 

90-9(i 

9.075 

94 

8.80 

90 

Establishment. 


No.  10. 
No.  2.. 
No.  12. 
No.  11. 
No.  7.. 
No.  8.. 


Piece 
price  per 

yard 
(cents.) 


8.77 

8.28 
8.10 
8.00 
7.90 
7.90 


Speed  of 

looms 

(picks  per 

minute). 


100-110 

m-  95 

100-105 
95-100 
90-  95 
92-110 


The  above  tabular  statement  shows  that  the  rates  for  weaving  a 
50-pick  woolen  fabric  range  from  7.90  cents  per  yard  to  9.77  cents — 
a  difference  of  nearly  2  (1.87)  cents  per  yard,  which  is  indicative  of 
the  general  range  shown  for  all  classes  of  woolen  fabrics. 

It  is  apparent  also  that  in  the  case  of  woolen  fabrics  the  speed  of 
the  looms  is  larplv  a  negligible  factor  in  so  far  as  it  affects  the  piece 

grice,  for  the  tabular  statement  shows  that  several  of  the  mills  paying 
igh  rates  have  slower  looms  than  several  mills  which  pay  low  rates. 

The  prevailing  method^  of  weaving  worsted  goods  is  to  assign  a 
weaver  to  two  looms,  but  in  many  cases,  especially  where  a  fine  fabric 
or  a  fabric  difficult  to  weave  is  to  be  made,  a  weaver  will  attend  only 
one  loom.  In  Table  44  price  fists  of  piece  rates  paid  to  worsted 
weavers  operating  one  loom  are  shown  for  four  establishments. 

Table  44  shows  that  the  rates  for  weaving  in  establisliments  2,  3, 
•  and  4  are  approximately  the  same  on  all  fabrics — from  those  having 
only  20  picks  per  inch  to  those  having  120  picks  per  inch.  The 
greatest  difference  shown  in  any  case  is  only  6  miUs  per  yard,  wliile 
m  most  cases  the  variance  is  only  3  to  4  mills.  But  the  rates  paid  in 
estabfishment  1  are  uniformly  from  If  cents  to  over  2  cents  lower  than 
those  paid  in  the  other  three  estabfishments. 

The  footnotes  to  Table  44  show  that  the  speed  of  the  looms  in  the 
several  mills  was  approximately  the  same — about  100  picks  per 
minute. 


1016 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


KEPOET  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


1017 


CARDED    WOOL    MULE    SPINNEBS'    PIECE    RATES    FOR    SPINNING    WARP 

YARN   IN  THE   UNITED   STATES. 

The  following  table  shows  the  piece  price  per  100  pounds  of  warp 
yam  paid  spinners  operating  one  mule  of  240,  288,  300,  340,  360,  380, 
400,  and  440  spindles  each  and  producing  various  sizes  of  yarn  from 
seven-eighths  run  to  8 J  runs,  for  a  number  of  establishments: 

Table  4Q.— Piece  price  per  100  pounds  of  vmrp  yam  paid  spinners  operating  one  mule. 


Mules  of  240  spin- 
dles in  estab- 
lishmeAt. 


Mules  of   288   spindles   In 
establishment. 


No.l. 


No.  2. 


10. 7178 

.7292 

.7518 

.7860 

.8317 

.9113 

.9683 

1.0596 

1. 1392 

1. 1734 

1.1963 

1.2533 

1.3215 

1.3443 

1.3672 

1.4354 

1.4810 

1.5152 

Xm  uHltVv 


10.621 

.683 


745 


.807 


.910 


1.6291 


1.7432 


1.8684 
2.0279 
2.0621 
2.1532 
2.2899 
2.4379 


2.5634 
2.7229 
2.9848 
3.1443 
3.2696 
3.4065 
3.5204 


.983 


No.  3.' 


1.045 


1.128 


1.21 


to.  605 
.616 
.638 
.671 
.693 
.748 
.803 
.891 

.979 
1.001 
1.034 
1.100 
1.222 
1.144 
1.188 
1.232 


No. 
4.a 


Mules  of  300  spindles  fa 
establisiunent. 


No. 
1.* 


No. 

2.« 


10.74 
.75 

.78 
.83 
.85 

•  «f  4b 

•  iftr 

1.10 
1.17 
1.21 
1.27 
1.28 
1.35 
1.39 
1.41 
1.46 
1.53 


1.26    I  1.298  i  1.60 


1.314     1.353 


1.386     1.441 


1.47 
1.53 

1*593 
1.656 
1.76 


1.562 
1.672 

"i.'793' 
1.903 
2.024 


1.67 


1.79 


1.94 
2.08 

2.'26' 
2.37 

«•  52 


1.80 

1.863 

1.925 

2.09 

2.214 

2.328 

2.484 

2.535 

2.597 

2.887 

3.04 

3. 29 

3.539 

3.798 


2.145 
2.255 
2.486 

i!>*  0«fCl 

2.717 
2.827 


2.65 
2.79 
3.08 

3.37 
3.51 


0.70 

.71 

.76 

.79 

.82 

.89 

.95 

1.05 

1.12 

1.16 

1.18 

1.23 

1.29 

1.32 

1.35 

1.40 

1.46 


1.52 
1.59 


1.71 


1.84 
1.98 

2.*i2 
2.26 
2.39 


2.53 
2.66 
2.94 
3.07 
3.21 
3.34 


$0.68 

.73 

.77 

.80 

.85 

.88 

.92 

.97 

1.00 

1.05 

1.08 

1.13 

1.19 

1.24 

1.30 

1.34 

1.40 

1.45 

1.51 

1.56 

1.61 

1.66 

1.72 

1.77 

1.83 

1.93 

i'oi' 

2.13 
2.24 
2.31 
2.38 
2.51 
2.64 
2.77 
2.90 
3.04 
3.17 
3.30 
3.43 
3.56 
3.70 
3.83 


No. 
3.» 


10.74 
.75 

.78 

.83 

.85 

.92 

.99 

1.10 

1.17 

1.21 

1.27 

1.28 

1.35 

1.39 

1.41 

1.46 

1.53 


No.  4. 


SO.  621 

.683 


.745 

".'807 


Mules  of  340  spin- 
dles in  establisli- 
ment. 


No. 

l.» 


No.  2. 


.910 
"983 


1.045 
i.'i28 
i.'2i"' 


l.GO     1.26 


1.67     1.314 


1.79 


2.06 

■2.'26 
2.37 
2.52 

'2."65' 
2.79 
3.08 
3.22 
3.37 
3.51 


1.386 


10.62 
.64 


.71 
.78 
.83 
.92 

1.01 
1.04 
1.07 
1.14 
1.16 
1.18 
1.23 
1.27 


1.35 


1.40 
i.'49' 


$0,805 


No. 
3.     i 


.855 


.95 
1.01 
1.065 


1.165 
i.*26' 


1.35 
i.*435 


1.54 

i.'es' 


1.47 
1.53 

"  1.593 
1.656 
1.76 

"i.'so" 

1.863 

1.925 

2.09 

2.214 

2.328 

2.484 

2.5.35 

2.597 

2.887 

3.04 

3.29 

3.539 

3.798 


1.62 
1.73 

1.85" 

1.97 

2.09 

'2"22" 

2.34 

2.58 

2.69 

2.82 

2.93 


1.73 
i.'84* 


$0,621 
'".'083 
"'.'745 
"'.867 
"".'916 
"".*983 
'i.645 
"l.'i*2' 

1*26' 

i.'sii 

'  1.388 

"i.'47*, 
1.53  j 

'  1.593 
1.656 
1.76 

f 

i'm 

1.863 

1.925 

2.09 

2.214 

2.328 

2.484 

2.535 

2.597 

2.887 

3.04 

3.29 

3.539 

3.798 


Note.— When  a  spinner  attends  a  pair  of  mules  with  a  small  number  of  spindles  each,  he  is  not  paid  at 
the  above  rate,  but  is  given  a  special  rate,  which  Is  sUghtly  under  double  the  rate  for  attending  one  mule. 

» A  premium  of  5  per  cent  paid  to  spinners  earning  143.60  and  over  in  a  period  of  four  weeks. 

«  A  premium  of  5  per  cent  paid  to  spinners  earning  $43.60  and  over  in  a  period  of  four  weeks.  With  helper 
on  yarn  of  1 J  run  and  coarser,  10  per  cent  of  regular  spinners'  price  is  deducted. 

•  A  premium  of  5  per  cent  paid  to  spinners  earning  $48  and  over  in  a  period  of  four  weeks.  With  helper 
on  yarn  of  1|  run  and  coarser,  10  per  cent  of  regular  spinners'  price  is  deducted. 


Table  46. — Piece  price  per  JOG  pounds  of  warp  yarn  paid  spinners  operating  one 

mule — Continued. 


1 

Size 
of 

Mules  of  300  spindles  in 
establishment. 

Mules  of  380  spin- 
dles in  establish- 
ment. 

Mules  of   400  spin- 
dles in  establish- 
ment. 

Mules  of  440  spindles  in 
establishment. 

yarn. 

No.l. 

No.2.1 

No.3.« 

No.4.1 

No.l. 

No.2.1 

No.3.1 

No.l. 

No.2.1 

N0.3. 

No.l. 

No.2.1 

No.3.2  N0.4. 

! 

1 
1 

1 
1 
1 

1 

2 

1 

21 
2 
2 
3 

lum. 

$0,506 
.532 
.559 
.585 
.613 
.639 
.692 
.746 
.799 
.851 
.878 
.905 
.945 
.984 

1.012 
1.050 
1.0S9 
1.133 
1.177 
1.221 
1.266 
1.309 
1.353 

$0,506 

: 

$0.6722 

.6836 

.7063 

.7405 

.7747 

.8430 

.90 

.9912 

1.0595 

1.0937 

1.1165 

1.1621 

1.2304 

1.2532 

1.2760 

1.3329 

1.3785 

1.4127 

1.4469 

$0.62 

.64 

.66 

.69 

.71 

.78 

.83 

.92 

.98 

1.01 

1.04 

1.07 

1.14 

1.16 

1.18 

1.23 

1.27 

'1.'35* 

$0.61 

.64 

.67 

.70 

.74 

.77 

.81 

.85 

.88 

.91 

.95 

.99 

1.05 

1.09 

1.13 

1.18 

1.22 

1.28 

1.32 

1.36 

1.41 

1.45 

1.51 

1.55 

1.60 

$0.61 

.62 

.64 

.67 

.69 

.75 

.80 

.89 

.95 

.98 

1.00 

1.03 

1.10 

1.12 

1.14 

1.19 

1.23 

i.'so' 

$0.0380 

.6494 

.6722 

.7063 

.7291 

.7975 

.8545 

.9456 

1.0026 

1.0367 

1.0595 

1.1051 

1.1621 

1.1848 

1.2076 

1.2646 

1.3102 

1.3386 

1.3671 

$0.59 

.60 

.62 

.66 

.68 

.75 

.80 

.88 

.93 

.97 

.99 

1.03 

1.08 

1.11 

1.13 

1.17 

1.22 

$0.61 

.62 

.64 

.67 

.69 

.75 

.80 

.89 

.95 

.98 

1.00 

1.03 

1.10 

1.12 

1.14 

1.19 

1.23 

$0.6323 

.6437 

.6665 

.7007 

.7234 

.7861 

.8430 

.9342 

.9912 

1.0253 

1.0481 

1.0880 

1.1507 

1.1734 

1.1962 

1.2475 

1.2931 

1.3244 

1.3557 

$0.59 

.60 

.62 

.66 

.68 

.75 

.80 

.88 

.93 

.97 

.99 

1.03 

1.08 

1.11 

1.13 

1.17 

1.22 

"i."27* 

$0.6266 

.6380 

.6608 

.6950 

.7177 

.7747 

.8317 

.9228 

.9798 

1.0140 

1.0367 

1.0709 

1. 1393 

1. 1621 

1.1848 

1.2304 

1.2760 

1.3102 

1.3443 

$0.59 

.60 

.62 

.66 

.68 

.75 

.80 

.88 

.93 

.97 

.99 

1.03 

1.08 

1.11 

1.13 

1.17 

1.22 

'1*27' 

$0.57 

.61 

.64 

.67 

.70 

.74 

.77 

.80 

.84 

.87 

.90 

.95 

.99 

1.03 

1.00 

1.12 

1.17 

1.21 

1.25 

1.30 

1.34 

1.39 

1.43 

1.47 

1.52 

.532 

.559 

.585 

.613 

.639 

.692 

.746 

.799 

.851 

.878 

.905 

.945 

.984 

.998 

1.012 

1.050 

1.089 

1.133 

3j 



1.27 

1.30 

1.177 
1  221 

i 

1.5152 

"l.'ens' 

1.40 
'1.'49' 

1.35 
"l.U 

1.4355 
'i."5266' 

1.34 
'i.'43" 

1.35 
*1.'44' 

1.4184 
*i."6695" 

1.34 
"i.'43' 

1.4013 

1.34 

1.265 
1.309 

i 

1.4924 

1.43 

1.353 

4..... 
4}.... 

1.7431 

1.62 

1.56 

1.6519 

1.53 

1.56 

1.6349 

1.53 

1.540 
1.600 
1.660 
1.720 
1.780 
1.840 
1.900 
1.960 
2.020 
2.080 
2.140 
2.200 
2.260 
2.320 
2.380 
2.440 
2.500 
2.560 
2.620 
2.680 
2.740 
2.800 
2.860 
2.920 
2.980 
3.040 
3.100 
3.160 
3.220 
3.280 
3.340 
3.400 
3.460 
3.580 
3.700 

1.6178 

1.53 

1.540 
1.600 

4 

4 

1.8798 
1.9254 
2.0051 

1.73 

1.68 

1.67 

1.7773 
1.8342 
1.9026 

1.66 

1.67 

1.7545 
1.8114 
1.8798 

1.66 
'i.'76' 

1.7317 
1.7887 
1.8570 

1.66 

1.61 

1.660 
1.720 

4 

1.85 

1.78 

1.79 

1.76 

1.79 

1.76 

1.69 

1.780 
1  840 

4 

4 

5 
6 
5 
6 
5 
6 

2.1304 

1.97 

1.87 

1.90 

2.0165 

1.87 

1.90 

1.9937 

1.87 

1.9709 

1.87 

1.78 

1.900 
1  960 

2.2671 

2.09 

1.97 
2.02 
2.08 

2.02 

2.1418 

2.00 

2.02 

2.1190 

2.00 

2.0963 

2.00 

1.87 
1.93 
1.98 

2.020 
2  080 

2.3925 

2.22 

2.15 

2.2671 

2.10 

2.15 

2.2444 

2.10 

2.2216 

2.10 

2.140 
2.200 

2.5292 
'2.7798' 
'2.9m 

"3.1672' 
3.' 2925* 

2.34 
'2.' 58" 
'2.'69' 
'2.' 82' 
"2.' 93' 

2.20 

'i'sl' 

"2."43' 
'2.'54' 
"2."  66* 
'2."77' 
*2.'89' 

2.26 
'2.'49' 
'2."  60" 

2.' 72' 

'i'ss" 

2.3925 

"i'esir 

2. 7570 
'2.'8824' 
"2.'9963" 
'3."  1162' 

2.23 

2.'44" 

'2.' 57* 

'2."67' 

'2.' 80* 

2.26 
"2."49" 

"i'eo" 

'2.' 72' 

'i'ss' 

2.3640 
'2."6632" 
'2.*  7229* 
*  2."  8482* 
'2."  9621* 
*3.'6766' 

2.23 
*2."44 
"2.'57' 

'2.' 67* 
*2.'86' 

2.3355 

2.23 

2.09 

2.260 
2.320 

fi  .... 
5  .... 

2.5748 

2.44 

2.20 

2.380 
2.440 

6  .... 
6*.... 

2.6887 

2.57 

2.31 

2.500 
2.560 

«  .... 
6  .... 

2.8140 

2.67 

2.42 

2.620 
2.680 

6  .... 
6  .... 

6  .... 

2.9279 

2.80 

2.53 

2.740 
2.800 

3.0646 

2.64 

2.860 
2.920 

7  .... 

2.75 

2.980 

7 

3  040 

7 

3.00 

2.86 

3.100 
3  160 

7i 

7 

3.12 

2.97 

3.220 
3  280 

7 

*•-••• 

7 

3.23 

3.08 

3.340 
3  400 

7 



8 

8i 

8j 

........ 

3.36 



3.19 

3.460 
3  580 

\.... 

1 

^... 

...... 

1 

3.700 

1 1 

1 A  premium  of  5  per  cent  paid  to  spfainers  earning  $48  and  over  In  a  period  of  four  weeks. 
» A  premium  of  5  per  cent  paid  to  spinners  earning  $43.00  and  over  in  a  period  of  four  weeks, 
helper  on  yam  of  If  run  and  coarser,  10  per  cent  of  regular  spinners'  price  is  deducted. 


With 


II 


1018 


EEPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOAHD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K, 


1019 


CARDED  WOOL   MULE    SPINXERS'   PIECE   KATES  FOR   SPINNING  FILLING 

YARN    IX  THE   UNITED   STATES. 


Table  47. — Piece  price  per  100  pounds  of  filling  yarn  paid  spinners  operating  one 

mule — Continued . 


till 


The  following  table  shows  the  piece  price  per  100  pounds  of  filling 
yam  paid  spinners  operating  one  mule  of  240,  288,  300,  340,  360, 
380,  400,  and  440  spindles  each  and  producing  various  sizes  of  yarn 
from  i  run  to  8i  runs,  for  a  number  of  establishments: 

Table  47.--i*i€CC  prw€  per  100  pounds  ofjiUing  yam  paid  spinners  oik  rating  one  mule. 


Size  of 
yam. 


Mules  of  240  spin- 
dles in  estabiish- 

ment. 


Mules  of  2KS  spin«lles  in 
eiilablishiiieiit. 


Mules  of  SriO  spindles  in 
©stablisluiicnt. 


Runs. 
1 

■■■ii 

li 

It, 

T 

11 

2 


No. 


10.77 
•  78 

.m 

1.03 
1.07 
1.15 
1.17 
1.21 
1.26 
1.30 
1.32 
1.36 
1.39 
1. 44 

"Lm 

i'n 

i'.m 
2.01 

2.30 
2.45 


No. 

•2  t 


No. 
3.a 


2.  TO 
2, 74 
3.04 

3.33 
3.49 


JO.  73 
.79 

.83 

•  o< 

.91 

.96 
1.00 
1.00 
1.03 

1.08 
1.11 
1.  IS 
1.23 

1.28 

l:h 
1.39 

1.44 

1.51 
1.  54 
l.Gl 

1.68 
1.72 
1.77 
1.82 
1.87 
1.99 

'2.69' 

x*!20 

2.39 

2.44 
2.59 

2.72 

3. 00 
3.15 
3.29 
3.41 

3.58 
3.72 

4.00 


to.  74 

.75 

.78 

.83 

.85 

.92 

.99 

1.03 

1.10 

1.13 

1.17 

1.22 

1.27 

1.28 

1.31 

1.34 

1.39 

L53 


No.  1. 


1.65 

i'iit' 
1.94 

2.'(»8' 
2.20 
2.37 


to.  7178 
.72M 
.7318 
,7860 
,8317 
.9113 
.9683 

1.0596 
1.1164 
1. 1392 
1.1S49 
1.2419 
1.2533 
1.2645 
1.2863 
1.3443 
1.3M3 
1.  1242 

L48io 


No. 

2.* 


No.  3.1 


2-51 
2.ti(5 
2.94 
3.08 

3.22 
3.37 


1.6063 

i'7«2 
1.84J84 
1.9368 
2.0279 
2. 1532 
2.2809 


2-4379 
2.5748 
2.8596 
2.9848 
3. 1443 
3.2696 
3.3951 


to.  74 

.75 
.78 
.83 

.8,5 

.99 
1.03 
1.10 
1.13 
1.17 
1.22 
L27 
1-2H 
1.31 
1.34 
1.39 

i.'45* 

L53' 


1.65 

1^79" 
1.94 

•i.og' 

2.20 
2.37 


10.605 
,616 

.638 

.671 

.693 

•  4  48 

.803 

.847 

.891 

.924 

.94^ 

.99 

1.033 

1.034 

1.0*i7 

1.089 

1-122 

i.'i77' 

i'.m 


No.  4. 


to.  569 

".Hi" 


r45 


.H48 
".'%2 

".m 


No. 

i.» 


2.51 
2.65 
2.94 
3.08 

3.22 
3.37 


1.441 
1.562 

i'672' 

1.793 

1.903 


1.043 

"ilm 

llil" 

"i.m 


2.024 
2.134 
2.365 
2.48i6 

2.717 


1.314 

i.386' 
1.47 

1*  KhS 

1.552 

1.656 


1.76 

1.80 

1.863 

1.925 

2.09 

2.214 

2.  328 

2.484 

2.5:J5 

2.597 

2.887 

3-04 

3.29 

3.5.19 


10.70 
.71 
.76 
.79 

«  Om 

.89 
.95 
.99 
1.05 
1.10 
1.12 
1.17 
1.21 
1.23 
1.25 
1.27 
1.33 

i.'39" 

1.46" 


No. 

... ' 


1.57 

i.7i 

1.84 

1    'IS 

2.12 
2.26 


mm  tlif 

2.53 
2.81 
2.94 
3.07 
3.21 


to.  68 

.73 

.77 

.80 

.85 

.88 

.92 

.92 

.99 

.99 

1.03 

1-08 

1.16 

1.18 

1.23 

1.28 

1.33 

1.39 

1.43 

1.47 

1.53 

1.58 

1.64 

1.67 

1.73 

1.84 

2.04 
2.13 
2.20 
2.2« 
2.39 
2-51 
2.64 
2.77 
2.90 
3.04 
3.17 
3.30 
3.43 
3.5<i 
3.70 


No. 
3.a 


ltO.74 
.75 

.78 
.83 

.92 
.99 
1.03 
1.10 
1.13 
1.17 
1.22 
1.27 
1.28 
1.31 
1.34 
1.39 


No.  4. 


Mules  of  340  spin- 
dles In  estabiish- 
inent. 


$0,569 

.*62' 

'.m 


1.43 
L'si 

i.65 

i'79 
1.94 

i'.m 
2.20 

2.37 


.745 

'.*84s" 

.962 

'.*983' 


No. 

1.3 


2.51 
2.65 
2.94 
3.08 
3.22 
3.37 


1.128 

"i.'ii" 

L273 

i.'su 

i*386 
1.47 

■     ■    •    o    •    <■     ■ 

1.53 

1..552 

1.656 


to.  62 
.64 

.66 

.69 

.71 

.78 

.83 

.88 

.92 

.95 

.98 

1.03 

1.06 

1.08 

1.11 

1.13 

1-16 


No.  2.  No.  3. 


to.  72 

.77 


.885' 
.97 
1.045 


to. 569 

>  -  •  •  • 

.62 


.683 


r45 


1.76 

1.80 

1.863 

1.925 

2.09 

2.214 

2.328 

2.484 

2.5.35 

2.597 

2.887 

3.04 

3.29 

3.539 


1.22 

"i.'-if 

i.38" 

L49' 
1.62 

V.Zi' 

1.8.5 

1.97 


1.115 

i'.m 

i.'26' 
1*35' 


1.435 

Lsi' 

L63' 
i/73' 


.848 

.962 

".'983 

i."645 

1*128 


2.09 
2.21 
2.44 

2.58 
2. 69 
2.82 


1.21 

'i"273 

i'.'i'u 

1.386 
1.47 

I.'m' 

1.552 
1.656 


1.76 

1.80 

1.863 

1.925 

2.09 

2. 214 

2. 328 

2.484 

2.535 

2.597 

2.887 

3.04 

3.29 

3.539 


NoTK.— When  a  spinner  attends  a  pair  of  mules  with  a  small  number  of  spindles  each  he  is  not  mid  at 
the  above  rate  but  is  given  a  special  rate  which  is  slightly  under  double  the  rate  for  attending  1  mule. 

1 A  premium  of  5  per  cent  Is  paid  to  spinners  eamiog  S43.60  and  over  in  a  period  of  4  weeks. 

>.i  premium  of  3  per  cent  is  paid  to  spinners  earning  t41.6f)  and  over  in  a  period  of  4  weeks,  AVarp  price 
list  paid  for  ftliing  having  warp  twist,  with  helper  on  yam  of  If  run  and  coarser  5  per  cent  of  regular  filling 
price  is  deducted.  «—  »  » 

3  A  premium  of  5  per  cent  is  paid  to  spinners  earning  t4S  and  over  in  a  period  of  4  weeks. 

*  A  premium  of  5  per  cent  is  p iM  to  spinners  earniajj  S48  and  over  in  a  period  of  4  weeks.  Warp  price  list 
paid  for  filliug  having  warp  twist.  With  helper  on  yarn  of  1^  run  and  coarser  5  per  cent  of  regular  fiUing 
price  is  deducted.  *»  * 


Size 

of 

Mules  of  360  spindles  In 
establishment. 

Mules  of  380  spin- 
dles in  establish- 
ment. 

Mules  of  400  spindles 
iu  establishment. 

Mules  of  440  spindles  In 
establishment. 

yarn. 

No.  1. 

No. 
2.1 

No. 
3.» 

No. 
4.1 

No.  1. 

No. 
2.1 

No. 
3.1 

No.  1. 

No. 
2.1 

No.  3. 

No.  1. 

No. 
2.1 

Q  2     rs  0.  4. 

2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
2 
3 
3 
3 
3 
3 
3 
3 
3 
4 
4i 
4 
4] 

ii 

^uns. 

$0.46 
.484 
.508 
.532 
.557 
.581 
.629 
.678 
.726 
.774 
.798' 
.823 
.859 
.895 
.907 
.920 
.955 
.990 
1  030 

$0.46 

.484 

.508 

.532 

.557 

.581 

.629 

.678 

.726 

.774 

.798 

.823 

.859 

.895 

.907 

.920 

.955 

.990 

1.030 

1.070 

1.110 

1.150 

1.190 

1.230 

"1.'43' 
1.49 
1.55 
1.61 
1.67 
1.73 
1.79 
1.85 
1.91 
1.97 
2.03 
2.09 
2.15 
2.21 
2.27 
2  33 

..... 
..... 
'.'.'... 

•  .  -  -  . 



$0.0722 

,6836 

.7063 

.7405 

.7747 

.8430 

.9000 

.9342 

.9912 

1.0367 

1.0595 

1.1051 

1.1507 

1.1621 

1.1848 

1.2076 

1.2,532 

1.2874 

1.3216 

$0.02 

.64 

.66 

.69 

.71 

.78 

.83 

.88 

.92 

.95 

.98 

1.03 

1.06 

1.08 

1.11 

1.13 

1.16 

'1.'22" 

$0.61 

.64 

.67 

.70 

.74 

.77 

.81 

.81 

.84 

.87 

.90 

.95 

.99 

1.02 

1.08 

1.12 

1.17 

1.21 

1.24 

1.30 

1.34 

1.39 

1.43 

1.46 

1.52 

$0.01 

.62 

.64 

.67 

.69 

.75 

.80 

.85 

.89 

.92 

.95 

.99 

1.02 

1.03 

1.07 

1.09 

1.12 

l.'ls 

$0,638 

.649 

.672 

.706 

.729 

.797 

.854 

.888 

.945 

.979 

1.002 

1.048 

1.093 

1.105 

1.127 

1.150 

1.184 

1.219 

1.253 

$0.59 

.60 

.62 

.66 

.68 

.75 

.80 

.83 

.88 

.91 

.93 

.98 

1.01 

1.03 

1.05 

1.07 

1.11 

$0.61 

.62 

.64 

.67 

.69 

.75 

.80 

.85 

.89 

.92 

.95 

.99 

1.02 

1.03 

1.07 

1.09 

1.12 

$0.0323 

.64.37 

.6065 

.7007 

.7234 

.7861 

.8430 

.8829 

.9342 

.9684 

.9912 

1.0367 

1.0766 

1.0880 

1.1165 

1.1393 

1.1734 

1.2047 

1.2361 

$0.59 

.60 

.62 

.66 

.68 

.75 

.80 

.83 

.88 

.91 

.93 

.98 

1.01 

1.03 

1.05 

1.07 

1.11 

$0.6266 

.6380 

.6608 

.6950 

.7177 

.7747 

.8317 

.8772 

.9228 

.9570 

.9798 

1.0253 

1.0595 

1.0709 

1.1051 

1.1279 

1. 1621 

1. 1905 

1.2190 

$0.59 

.60 

.62 

.66 

.68 

.75 

.80 

.83 

.88 

.91 

.93 

.98 

1.01 

1.03 

1.05 

1.07 

1.11 

i.'le" 

$0.57 
.61 

.64 
.67 
.70 
.74 
.77 
.77 
.79 

.ai 

.86 

.90 

.95 

.98 

1.02 

1.07 

1.11 

1.16 

1.19 

1.23 

1.28 

'    1     QO 

1.16 

1.18 

1.16 

1.070 
1.110 



1.3785 

1.27 

1.23 

1.310 

1.22 

1.23 

1.2931 

1.22 

1.150 
1  190 

1.2760 
'i.'37S5' 
'  1.4924' 

1.22 

•  »  .  *  • 

1.4924 
'i.'6i78" 

1.38 
'1.'49' 

1.33 
'i.'44' 

1.412 
'l."526' 

L32 
"i.'42' 

1.33 
i."44' 

1.3956 

i.'sogs" 

1.32 
'i'42' 

1.230 

'i.'43"' 
1  49 

1.32     1.36 

1.40 

1.42  [  1.44 

1. 7431 
l.SOOl 
1.8798 

2.6651' 

'2*1364' 

1.62 

1.01 

1.56 

1.651 
1.708 
1.777 

'i.'962" 

'2.'6i6* 

1.53 

1.66 

1.6349 
1.6861 
1.7545 

"i."8798" 

'i."9937' 

1.53 

'i.'oe' 

'i.'76' 

'i."87' 

1.55 
1.61 
1.67 
1.73 
1.79 
1.85 
1.91 
1.97 
2.03 
2.09 
2.15 
2.21 
2.27 
2.33 

1.6178 
1.6634 
1. 7317 

"1.'8576' 

1.9m 

1.53  1  1.5.1 

1 

1.73 

l.'ss' 

'i.'97' 

1.68 

I.'ts' 

'1.'87' 
1.93 
1.98 

"2.'69' 

2.' 26" 

"2.31* 

1.67 

I.'to' 
i'w 

1.66 
"l."76' 
'1:87' 

1.67 
l."79' 

"i.'go" 

1.66 
'l."76" 
'1.'87' 

1.01 
'l."69" 

'i.'re' 

1.84 

1.88 

'i.'99 
'2.09' 

5 
6 

6 

6 
5 

6i 

'-  ■  «>  .  . 

2.2671 
'2."3925" 

2.6545 
'2,"7798' 

2.09 
'2.' 21" 

2.' 44' 
"2.'58' 

2.02 
'2."l3' 
"2.37 
'2*49 

2.141 
"2."267' 

'i.'soo" 

2.' 631' 

1.99 
"2.11" 
"2.'34" 
'2.' 45" 

2.02 

2.I3" 

'2*37' 

'2.'49" 

2.1190 
'2.'2387' 
"2"4779" 
'2"6632' 

1.99 

"2^11"; 

i 

'2.34' 1 

2.0963 

'2.'2l62' 

2."  4494' 

1.99 

'2.'ir 

'2.'34" 

6 
6 
6 

6 
6 
C 
6 

P 

2.45  j 

2.39 
2.45 
2.51 
2  .i^? 

2.5748 

...... 

2.45 

2.20 

2-39 
2.45 
2.51 





2.9165 
"3."64i8' 

2.69 

'2."  82' 

2.43 
'2.'54" 

2.60 
'2."  72' 

2.757 
'2.'882' 

2.57 
"2."  68' 

2.60 
'2."72" 

2.7229 

"2.'8482" 

2.57 

2.6887 

2.57 

2.31 

2.68  ! 

2.63 
2.09 
2.75 
2  81 

2.8140 

2.68 

"2.' 42' 

-.0/ 

2.63 
2.69 
2.75 
2.81 
2.87 
2.93 
2.99 
3.05 
3.11 
3.17 
3.23 
3.29 
3.35 
3.47 
3.59 



•  .  ■  •  . 

3.1672 

2.66 

3.667  j 1 

2.9735 

2.9393 

2.53 

2.77 

1 

2.87 
2.93 
2.99 
3.05 
3  11 

2.64 

? 

7 
7 
7 
7 

I 

1 

1 

2.89 

1 

2.75 

t 

1 

•  •  ■  •  . 

3.00 

i 

2.86 

3.17 
3.23 
3.29 

1 

3.12 

1 

.     j 

2.97 

1 



3.23 

1 

1 

3.35 
3.47 
3.59    i 

1 

1 

3.08 

81 
8 

1. ......!...... 

1 

, 

:                   t 

j 

1           1 

1 

I                   1 

■ 

1 

» A  premium  of  5  per  cent  is  paid  to  spinners  earning  $48  or  over  in  a  period  of  4  week<? 

2  A  premium  of  5  per  cent  Is  paid  to  spinners  earning  $48  or  over  in  a  period  of  4  weeks.  Warp  price 
list  paid  for  fdlmg  having  warp  twist.  With  helper  ou  yarn  of  1|  run  and  coarser  5  per  cent  of  reRUlar 
filling  price  Is  deducted.  ft. 


1020  BEPOBT  OF  TAEIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE   K. 

MACHIXEET,  PRODUCTIVE   EFFICIEXCY,  AND  LABOR   COST. 

For  the  purpose  of  ascertaining  the  character  and  effectiveness  of 
the  machinery  used  in  American  woolen  and  worsted  mills,  investiga- 
tion was  made  as  to  its  productive  efficiency  and  that  of  the  persons 
enffaffed  in  its  operation.  The  names  of  the  machines  used,  the  name 
of  the  country  in  which  they  were  manufactured  and  year  of  make, 
the  occupations  and  number  of  persons  required  in  tKeir  operation, 
with  the  hours  worked  and  earnings,  together  with  the  total  pro- 
duction in  the  period,  were  secured  in  each  of  the  following  depart- 
ments of  manufacture  in  the  mills  investigated:  ' 

Departments. — Wool  scouring;  worsted  w^ool  carding;  carded  wool 
carding;  combing  or  top  making;  drawing  Bradford  system  and  French 
system;  frame  spinning;  mule  spinning,  worsted;  mule  spinning, 
carded  wool. 

WOOL   SCOURING. 

For  wool  scouring  the  following  schedule  form  was  used: 

Persons  employed. — (a)  Occupation,  (h)  number,  (c)  country  of 
birth. 

Machines. — (a)  Name;  (h)  place  (countrv")  and  year  of  make,  (c) 
number  of  wool-feeding  machines,  number  of  wool-scouring  machines, 
number  of  wool-scouring  bowls,  number  of  wool-drying  machines, 
number  of  other  machines. 

Time  and  earnings. —  (a)  Total  hours  worked  on  product,  (h)  total 
amount  earned. 

Production. — (a)  Pounds  of  greasy  wool  fed  to  machines,  (b) 
pounds  of  scoured  wool  produced,  (c)  grade  of  wool  used. 

In  30  establishments  tnere  were  67  scouring  machines  in  operation 
having  a  total  of  255  bowls.  They  were  attended  by  200  machine 
operatives,  67  nonmachine  operatives,  and  49  foremen  and  sub- 
foremen. 

In  the  scouring  departments  of  the  mills  investigated  85.1  per  cent 
of  all  the  employees  were  foreign  bom,  60  per  cent  being  from  Italy 
and  eastern  and  southeastern  Europe,  while  14.9  per  cent  were  natives 
of  the  United  States.     (See  Table  4,  page  957.) 

(Note. — In  the  tables  of  productive  efficiency  and  labor  cost  estab- 
lishments are  listed  in  numerical  order  for  convenient  reference  in 
discussing  each  table.  The  numbers  given  to  estabhshments  in  the 
first  table  are  not  the  same  as  the  numbers  in  the  table  following  or 
in  any  one  of  the  succeeding  tables.  For  example.  No.  3  in  the  scour- 
ing table  is  not  given  that  number  in  any  other  table.  The  purpose  of 
this  is  to  prevent  identification  of  establishments.  The  production 
and  cost  can  not  be  followed  from  one  department  to  another.)' 


REPORT  of  tariff  BOABD   ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


1021 


The  following  table  shows  the  country  of  manufacture  of  the  scour- 
ing machines  and  the  number  of  years  in  operation: 

Table  48. — Scouring  machines  in  use  in  wooUn  and  ivorsled  mills  in  ilie  United  States, 

by  place  of  make  and  years  in  operation. 


Total 

Scouring  machines  manufactured  in — 

Years  in  operation. 

scouring 
machines. 

United 

States. 

England. 

Germany. 

France. 

Num- 
ber. 

Per 
cent 
distri- 
bu- 
tion. 

Num- 
ber. 

Per 
cent 
distri- 
bu- 
tion. 

Num- 
ber, 

Per 
cent 
distri- 
bu- 
tion. 

Num- 
l)er. 

Per 
cent 
distri- 
bu- 
tion. 

Num- 
ber. 

Per 
cent 
distri- 
bu- 
tion. 

All  machines 

67 

100.0 

37 

100.0 

18 

100.0 

7 

100.0 

5 

100.0 

Less  than  5  years 

6  years  but  less  than  10  years. . . 
10  years  but  less  than  15  years. . 
15  years  but  less  than  20  years. . 
SO  years  but  less  than  25  years. . 
25  years  but  less  than  30  years.. 
80  vRars  and  over. . . 

11 
26 
17 
5 
5 
2 
1 

16.4 
38.8 
25.3 
7.5 
7.5 
3.0 
1.5 

4 
13 
13 
3 
2 
1 
1 

10.8 
35.1 
35.1 
8.2 
5.4 
2.7 
2.7 

4 
8 
3 
2 

22.2 
44.4 
16.7 
11.1 

3 
4 

42.9 
57.1 

1 
1 

20.0 
20.0 

3        60.0 

1 

6.6 

1 

( 

The  table  shows  that  of  the  total  of  67  scouring  machines  in  opera- 
tion, 37,  or  55.2  per  cent,  were  manufactured  in  the  United  States 
while  30  machines,  or  44.8  per  cent,  were  made  in  foreign  countries. 
Eighteen  of  the  latter  were  manufactured  in  England,  7  in  Germany; 
4  in  France,  and  1  in  Belgium. 

Of  the  total  number,  11  machines,  or  16.4  per  cent,  were  in  opera- 
tion less  than  5  years;  43,  or  64.1  per  cent,  5  years  but  less  than 
15;  while  13,  or  19.5  per  cent,  were  m  operation  for  periods  from  15 
to  30  years  and  over. 

The  following  table  shows  for  each  establishment  the  number  of 
pounds  per  one  man  hour  per  machine  operative  and  for  all  oper- 
atives. It  also  shows  the  labor  cost  per  pound,  per  machine 
operatives,  nonmachine  operatives,  supervisory  and  total  labor  cost, 
together  with  the  average  wage  rate  per  hour  for  each  class  of 
employees. 


# 


1022 


BEPOET  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


WOOL-SCOURING    DEPARTMENT. 


Table  49.- 


-Profluctive  ejfirknrt/  of  machine  and  operative,  labor  cost  per  pound,  and  aver- 
age wage  rate,  by  establishments. 


Pounds  of 

greasy  wool 

scoured  per 

one  man  hour. 

I.abor  cmt  per  pound  (not  In- 
cluding rejiairs  lalwr). 

-Vverage  wage  rate  per 
hour. 

Average 
number 
of  oper- 
atives 
per 

Establishment. 

Ma- 
chine 
opera- 
tives. 

All 
opera- 
tives. 

• 

Produc- 
tive. 

Nonproiluc- 
tive. 

li 
1 

Total. 

Ma- 
chine 
opera- 
tives. 

Non- 
ma- 
chine 
opera- 
tives. 

Super- 
visory.! 

Ma- 
chine 
opera- 
tives. 

Non- 
ma- 
chine 
opera- 
tives. 

Super- 

vist)ry.' 

machine. 

No.  I 

280. 89 

107. 63 

1.%.  49 

492.  47 

92.81 

90.14 

96.23 

314.  05 

228.85 

125.71 

mi  57 

141.62 

si.m 

104. 96 
(iO.  G2 
134.68 
102.01 
245.17 
27a  85 
104. 17 
174. 72 
119.31 
392.  35 
152.74 
295. 71 
240. 78 
66.97 
69. 03 
133. 43 
213.57 

129.  48 

77.88 

mi  56 

395. 08 

76.17 

75.12 

76.99 

231.  41 

214.11 

99.25 

147.15 

122.41 

67.41 

74.20 

57.73 

116. 16 

59.99 

197.  36 

199.  30 

88.65 

ISti.  54 

110.  02 

219.  03 

106.95 

125.  m 

175.  41 

61.29 

62. 81 

109.96 

142.38 

Sa0006 
.0016 
.0009 

.ooa3 

.0015 

.0016 

.0017 

.0004 

.0007 

.0012 

.0009 

.0010 

.0021 

.0012 

.0024 

.0011 

.0014 

.0006 

.0005 

.0016 

.0009 

.0014 

.0004 

.0010 

.0006 

.0006 

.0022 

.0(722 

.0010 

.0008 

saooos 

.0004 
.0001 
.0001 

"Voooi" 

s.OOOO 
.0002 

.0002" 

.0003 
.0005 

.0662 

saooo3 

.0004 

.  0004 
.0001 
.0005 
.000(j 
.0008 
.0001 
.0001 
.0011 
.0006 
.0004 
=  0013 
.0009 
.0003 
.0004 
.0003 
.0002 
.0001 
.0007 
.0003 
.0005 
.0002 
.0003 
.0002 
.0004 
.0005 
.0005 
.0003 
.0003 

taoou 
.  0024 

.0014 

.0005 

.0020 

.0022 

.  IK)25 

.  (KKXi 

.0008 

.0023 

.0015 

.0014 

.  (X)34 

.0021 

.0027 

.0015 

.0024 

.0008 

.0008 

.0023 

.0012 

.0019 

.0008 

.0016 

.0013 

.0010 

.0027 

.0027 

.0013 

.0013 

80. 1318 
.  1699 
.  1416 
.  1499 
.1425 
.1466 
.1620 
.1397 
.1509 
.1&52 
.1779 
.1445 
.1741 
.1216 
.  14.50 
.  1469 
.1307 
.1392 
.1454 
.  1625 
.  16.34 

Aim 

.  1456 
.1476 
.1782 
.1375 
.1493 
.1521 
.  13»)9 
.1650 

10. 1044 
.  1862 
.0948 
.1795 

"'.'i399' 

".1229 
.1375 
.1633 

.1425' 

.1580 

.1200 

.'i4<J6 

f  0. 22:^ 
.3246 
.  2:k)5 
.3298 
.1950 
.2586 
.3103 
.2390 
.4286 
.5357 
.4000 
.3330 
.f.000 
.  2416 
.3500 
.3571 
.363() 
.2485 
.3420 
.4500 
.6000 
.6818 
.2949 
.3502 
.4285 
.2667 
.3671 
.3505 
.1911 
.3571 

No. 2 

No.  iS. 

No.  4 

No.  5. 

No.  6 

No.  7 

No.  8 

No.9. ., 

No.  10... 

No.  11 

No.  12 ..„ 

No.  11 

No.  M.... 

No.  15 

6.25 
8.50 
4.50 
1.90 
4.00 
5.00 
2.00 
2.83 
400 
1.00 
2.00 
2.00 
1.00 
2.00 

No.  16 

No.  17 

No.  18 

2.00 
2.00 
4.50 

No.  10 

No.  20 

No.  21 

3.50 
4.00 

2.00 

No.  22 

2.00 

No.  23 

No.  24 

No.  25 

No.  26 

3.00 
4.00 
9.60 

7.60 

No.  27 

No.  28 

2.00 
4.00 

No.  29 

No.  30 

3.00 
2.00 
4.00 

1  Supervisory  labor  inchides  oveTseers,  second  hands,  third  hands,  and  section  hands. 
« Leiss  than  ono-half  of  one-ten  thousandth  of  a  cent. 

The  table  shows  that  the  production  of  machine  operatives  was 
lowest  forestabhshment  No.  15,  being  60.62  pounds  per  one-man  hour, 
and  highest  for  estabHshmentNo.4,  being  492.47  pounds  per  one-man 
hour.  The  total  labor  cost  was  lowest  in  establishment  No.  4,  beintc 
5  cents  per  100  pounds  (0.0005  per  pound)  and  highest  in  establish- 
ment No.  13,  being  34  cents  per  100  pounds.  The  average  wage  rate 
for  machine  operatives  was  lowest  in  establishment  No.  14,  being 
12.16  cents  per  hour,  and  highest  in  establishment  No.  25,  being 
17.82  cents  per  hour. 

In  the  process  of  scouring  the  wool  is  not  agitated  nor  is  speed  an 
important  factor.  Labor  cost  in  this  department  is,  therefore,  not 
dependent  upon  quick-acting  machinerv,  the  productive  capacity  of 
the  plant  being  the  principal  factor.  The  machines  in  a  large  degree 
are  automatic  in  their  action. 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


1023 


WOK8TED   CARDING. 

For  the  worsted  carding  department  the  following  schedule  was 
used : 

Persons  employed. — (a)  Occupation,  (h)  country  of  birth,  (c)  num- 
ber of  males  16  and  over  and  under  16,  (d)  number  of  females  16  and 
over  and  under  16. 

Carding  macMnes. — (a)  Name,  (h)  number,  (c)  widtli  of  card,  (d) 
place  (country)  and  year  of  make. 

Time  and  earnings. — (a)  Total  hours  worked  on  product,  (h)  total 
amount  earned. 

Production.— (a)  Pounds  produced,  (h)  grade  of  stock  used. 

In  the  worsted  mills  investigated  there  were  658  carding  machines, 
627  of  which  were  in  operation.  They  were  operated  by  159  machine 
attendants.  In  other  capacities  connected  with  carding  production 
were  218  nonmachine  operatives  and  44  persons  engaged  in  super- 
vision. 

In  the  carding  departments  (woolen  and  worsted  combined)  of  the 
mills  investigated  67.3  per  cent  of  all  employees  were  foreign  bom, 
43.4  per  cent  being  from  Italy  and  eastern  and  southeastern  Europe, 
while  32.7  per  cent  were  natives  of  the  United  States.  (See  table  4, 
page  957.) 

The  following  table  shows  the  country  of  manufacture  of  the 
worsted  carding  machines  and  the  number  of  jesirs  in  operation: 

Table  50.— Carding  machines  in  use  in  worsted  milh  in  the   United  Stales. 


Total  ( 

warding 

- 
Carding  machines  manuf.ictured  in — 

machines. 

United  States. 

England. 

1 

Germany. 

Years  in  operation. 

Num- 
ber. 

Per 
cent 
distri- 
bu- 
tion. 

Num- 
ber. 

Per 
cent 
distri- 
bu- 
tion. 

Num- 
ber. 

Per 
cent 
distri- 
bu- 
tion. 

Num- 
ber. 

Per 

cent 
distri- 
bu- 
tion. 

All  machines 

658 

100.0 

331 

100.0 

9«i1 

iry\  n 

76 

100.0 

ZOl           x.x.nj.  u 

Less  than  5  years 

173 
143 
76 
61 
155 
31 
19 

26.3 

21.7 

11.5 

9.3 

23.6 

4.7 

2.9 

110 
85 
16 
51 
39 
16 
14 

33.3 

25.7 

4.8 

15.4 

11.8 

4.8 

4.2 

19 
26 
60 
10 
116 
15 
5 

7.6 
10.3 
23.9 

4.0 
46.2 

6.0 

2.0 

44 
32 

5  years,  but  less  than  10  years 

10  years,  but  less  than  15  years 

57.9 
42.1 

16  years,  but  less  than  20  years 

20  years,  but  less  than  25  years 

25  years,  but  less  than  30  years 

30  years  and  over 

The  table  shows  that  of  the  658  carding  machines,  331,  or  50.3  per 
cent,  were  manufactured  in  the  United  States;  251,  or  38.1  per  cent 
were  made  m  England;  and  76,  or  11.6  per  cent,  were  made  in 
Germany. 

One  hundred  and  seventy-three  machines,  or  26.3  per  cent,  were  in 
operation  less  than  5  years;  219  machines,  or  33.2  per  cent,  were  in 
use  5  years  and  over,  but  less  than  15  years;  216  macliines,  or  32  9 
per  cent,  were  in  use  15  years  and  over,  but  less  than  25  years;  while 
50  machines,  or  7.6  per  cent,  were  in  use  25  to  30  years  and  over. 


1024 


BEPOET  OF   TARIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


The  following  table  shows  the  productive  efficiency  of  worsted 
carding  macliines  and  operatives,  the  labor  cost  per  pound,  and  the 
average  wage  rate  by  establishments: 

Table  51.— Productive  efficiency  of  machine  and  operative,  labor  cost  per  pounds  and 

average  wage  rate,  by  establishments. 


i 

.\ver- 
age 

width 
of 

card. 

Aver- 
age 

count 
of 

yarn 

made 
in 

mill. 

Production 

per 

one-man  hour. 

Labor  cost  per  pound  (not 
including  repairs  labor). 

Average  wage  rate 
per  hour. 

Aver- 

Eitob- 
llahment. 

Ma- 
chine 
opera- 
tives. 

All 
opera- 

t  ves. 

^th?eT  ^'ooprwiuctive. 

Total. 

Ma- 
chine 
opera- 
tives. 

Nonma- 
chine 
opera- 
tives. 

Super- 
visory 
labor.i 

age 

num- 
ber of 
oper- 
atives 

card. 

Ma- 
chine 
opera- 
tives. 

Nonma- 
chine 
opera- 
tives. 

Super- 
visory.* 

No.  1 

No.  2 

No.  3 

No.  4 

No.  5 

No.O 

No.  7 

No.  8 

No.  9 

No.  10.... 
No.  11.... 
No.  12.... 
No.  13.... 
No.  14.... 
No.  15.... 
No.  16.... 
No.  17.... 

54 
54 
54 
60 
58 
51 
52 
55 
61 
48 
52 
66 
61 
60 
48 
53 
57 

18. 05 
19.42 
19.75 
22.78 
24.23 
27.00 
31.18 
31.40 
31.60 
31.  60 
32.61 
33.13 
38.00 
39.98 
42.10 
42.58 
27.46 

Lbs. 

108. 54 

200.78 

326.  29 

137.03 

75.86 

218.53 

245.07 

208.75 

104.85 

101.05 

88.88 

117.12 

74.94 

91.64 

47.76 

113.35 

57.05 

Lbs. 
43.  42 
37.  S4 
89.24 
63.56 
65.18 
70.98 
55.16 
43.22 
34.41 
39.92 
38.38 
56.93 
32.84 
43.23 
19.67 
65.42 
28.53 

10.0016 
.0006 
.0004 
.0009 
.0019 
.0006 
.0005 
.0006 
.0010 
.0013 
.0015 
.0011 
.0014 
.0015 
.0025 
.0009 
.0020 

10.0016 
.0025 
.0009 
.0015 

".'6612' 
.0017 
.0026 
.0023 
.0014 
.0019 
.0011 
.0023 
.0015 
.0032 
.0005 
.0011 

10.0018 
.0008 
.0006 
.0003 
.0006 
.0004 
.0006 
.0004 
.0004 
.0013 
.0006 
.0003 
.0005 
.0008 
.0012 
.0009 
.0021 

10.0050 
.0039 
.0019 
.0027 
.0025 
.0022 
.0028 
.0036 
.0037 
.0040 
.0040 
.0025 
.0042 
.0038 
.0069 
.0023 
.0051 

$0.1750 
.1134 
.1318 
.1188 
.1466 
.1256 
.1191 
.1359 
.1067 
.1300 
.1353 
.1260 
.1044 
.1401 
.1186 
.1069 
.1158 

$0.1750 
.1360 
.1507 
.1458 

'".'i436' 
.1440 
.1490 
.1229 
.1425 
.1502 
.1305 
.1536 
.1471 
.1299 
.1438 
.1211 

$0.3818 
.2716 
.2661 
.3690 
.2632 
.3259 
.26?2 
.3667 
.4464 
.2396 
.3276 
.3407 
.2727 
.^■527 
.2413 
.3252 
.2368 

a  67 
.79 
.73 
.46 
.33 
.49 
.50 
.88 
.64 
.50 
.49 
.53 
.63 

1.33 
.70 
.48 
.43 

1  Supervisory  lal)or  includes  overseers,  second  hands,  third  hands,  and  section  hands. 

The  table  shows  that  the  production  of  machine  operatives  was 
lowest  for  estabhshment  No.  17,  being  57.05  pounds  per  one-man  hour, 
and  liighest  in  estabhshment  No.  3,  being  326.29  pounds  per  one-man 
hour. 

The  total  labor  cost  was  lowest  in  estabhshment  No.  3,  being  $0.19 
per  100  pounds,  and  highest  in  estabhshment  No.  16,  being  $0.69  per 
100  pounds. 

The  average  wage  rate  for  macliine  operatives  was  lowest  in  estab- 
hshment No.  13,  being  10,44  cents  per  hour,  and  highest  in  estab- 
lishment No.  1,  being  17.50  cents  per  hour. 


REPOET   OF  TARIFF  BOARD   ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


1025 


WOOLEN   CARDING. 

The  schedule  used  in  woolen  mills  was  the  same  as  that  used  in 
worsted  mills  for  carding. 

In  the  woolen  mills  investigated  there  were  433  sets  of  cards  in 
operation.  They  were  operated  by  299  machine  tenders.  In  other 
capacities  there  were  231  nonmachine  operatives  and  97  persons 
engaged  in  supervision. 

The  following  table  shows  the  country  of  manufacture  of  woolen 
cards  and  the  number  of  years  in  operation: 

Table  52. — Carding  machines  in  use  in  woolen  mills  in  the  Unit^  States. 


Total  carding 

Carding  machines  manufactured  in- 

Years  in  operation. 

machines. 

United  States. 

England. 

Germany. 

Num- 
ber. 

Per 
cent 
distri- 
bution. 

Num- 
ber. 

Per 
cent 
distri- 
bution. 

Num- 
ber, 

Per 

cent 

distri- 

bution. 

Num- 
ber. 

Per 
cent 
distri- 
bution, 

All  machines 

1433 

100.00 

399 

100.0 

20 

100.0 

U4 

100.0 

Less  than  5  years i 

40 
62 
68 
16 
36 
32 
165 

9.6 

14.8 

16.2 

3.8 

8.6 

7.6 

39.4 

37 
62 
64 
13 
32 
32 
159 

9.3 

15.5 

16.0 

3.3 

8.0 

8.0 

39.9 

3 

15.0 

6  years  but  less  than  10  years 

10  years  but  loss  than  15  years 

4 
3 

4 

20.0 
15.0 
20.0 

15  years  but  less  than  20  years 

20  years  but  less  than  25  years 

25  years  but  less  than  30  years 

30  years  and  over 

0 

30.0 



1  Date  of  manufacture  not  reported  for  14  machines. 

The  table  shows  that  of  the  total  of  433  cards,  399,  or  92.2  per  cent, 
were  manufactured  in  the  United  States;  20,  or  4.6  per  cent,  were 
made  in  England;  and  14,  or  3.2  per  cent,  in  Germany.  Forty  ma- 
chines, or  9.6  per  cent,  were  in  operation  less  than  5  years;  130 
machines,  or  31  per  cent,  were  in  use  5  years  and  over  but  less  than 
15  years;  52  machines,  or  12.4  per  cent,  were  in  use  15  years  and  over 
but  less  than  25  years,  while  197,  or  47  per  cent,  were  in  use  25  to  30 
years  and  over. 

The  table  following  shows  the  productive  efficiency  of  woolen  card- 
ing machines  and  operatives,  the  labor  cost  per  pound  and  per  100 
pounds,  and  the  average  wage  rate,  by  establishments. 


IlliU Illllli^^^^^ 


1026 


REPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOAKD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


Table  53.— Productive  efficiency  o/madiine  and  operative,  labor  cost  per  pound  OTid  per 

100  pounds,  mid  average  wage  rale,  by  establishments. 


Kfltab- 

lish- 
meiit. 


No.  1 . . 
No.  2.. 
No.  3.. 
No.  4.. 
No.  5-. 
No.  6.. 
No.  7. . 
No.  8. . 
No.9.- 
No.10. 
No.  11. 
No.  12. 
No.  13. 
No.  14. 
No.  15. , 
No.  16. . 
No.  17... 
No.  18. . 
No.  19. . 
No.  20. . 
No.  21.. 
No.  22. . 
No.  23.. 
No.  24. . 
No.  25. . 
No.  26. . 


A-ror- 

width 
of 

cvd. 


Atbt- 


run 
of 

yam 

made 

mill. 


Tnches. 

m 

m 
m 

48 

48 

53 

52 

42 

53 

51 

48 

55 

40 

4» 

€» 

48 

44 

46 

60 

50 

60 

64 

41 

45 

60 

48 


Production 

per  one-man 

hour. 


Ma- 
chine 
opera- 
tives. 


All 
opera- 
tives. 


Lbs.  Lbs. 
L29j44.9567  24.3786i|0 
1.47  57.7065  27.7088 
1.67  47.019819.6883 
2. 02^56. 0206122. 662!i^ 
2.24  30.4607  16.0233^ 
2. 27  45.  449!  16. 3554 


Labor  cost  per  poiinti  (not  includ- 
ing repairs  lalwr). 


Pro- 
duc- 
tive. 


Ma- 
chine 

opera- 
tives. 


Ncmproduo- 

tiVB. 


Non- 
ma- 
chine 
opera- 
ti%'es. 


2.32i:H.7202 
2.36  38.2655 
2.38125.1445 
2. 7^33. 2776 
11.6296 
31.1758 
50.1221 
19. 9074 
43.  4596 


2.90 
3.00 
3.25 
3.40 
3.46 


3.74 
3.84 


4.0O 
4.07 


3.  SO  26.  5525 


16.8024 
16.8349 
14.9230 
15.8286 
8.7222 
16.7685 
16.0586 
10.3636 
17. 1405 
12.7786 


30.303216.9844 


3.50 
3.7015.3746 


24.7782 
28.5138 


3.9056.0400 


27. 1875 


15.981' 


11.1497 
13.  7103 
13. 1071 

I8.6800J 
10.1917 


4.  49' 15. 2284 
4.72;i0.2f>51 
4.82   6.0104 


10.4027 
6.  7167 

15.8437 
4.2506 


.0029|t0 

.0023 

.0030 

.0024 

,0043 

.002 

,0034 

,0031 

0065 

0039 

0110 

0038 

0025 

0074 

0028 

0041 

0032 

0078 

0042 

0041 

0021 

0053 

0067 

0076 

0039 

0164 


Super- 
sory.J 


Total 

OOflt 

per 
pound. 


Total 
oost 

per  100 
pounds. 


1 


.0022$0 
.0018 
.0037 
.0024 

,0024 
,004 
,0026 
.0034 
0018 
0024 
0033 
0007 
0039 
0047 
0028 
0037 
0022 
0022 
0038 
0041 
0039 
0084 
0027 
0070 
0027 
0063 


.0016 
0021 
0019 
0027 
0040 
0022 
0032 
0028 
0057 
0043 
0033 


0058  .0103 
0032|  .0096 
.0184 


.(xm 

.0042 
.0044 
.0035 
.0031 
.0023 
.0052 
.0031 
.00041 
.0027 
.00791 
.0037 
.0075 


$0.0067 
.0062 
.0086 
.0075 
.0107 

•  UUvD 

.0092 
.0003 
.0140 
.0106 
0176 


.0098 
.0122; 

.oas9 

.0131 
.0103 
.0134 
.0091 
.0141 
.0121 
.0225 
.0103 
.0302 


$0.67 
.62 
.86 
.75 
1.07 
.96 
.92 
.93 
1.40 
1.06 
1.76 
1.03 
.96 
1.84 
.98 
1.22 
.89 
1.31 
1.03 
1.34 
.91 
1.41 
1.21 
2.25 
1.03 
3.02! 


Averaf^e  wage  rate 
per  hour. 


Ma- 
chine 
opera- 
tives. 


Non- 
ma- 
chine 
opera- 
tives. 


$0. 1315 
.1309 
.1421 
.1362 
.1304 
.1250 
.1130 
.1197 
.1624 
.1300 
.1278 
.1186 
.1282 
.1465 
.1193 
.1078 
.0968 
.1302 
.1028 
.1179 
.1175 
.1432 
.1064 
.1151 
.1187 
.0986 


10. 16261 
.1520 
.1568 
.1552 
.1667 
.1554 
.1400 
.  1592 
.1561 
.1480 
.1750 
.1200 
.1389 
.1795 
.1416 
.1500 
.1550 
.1650 
.1571 
.1477 
.1450 
.1424 
.1191 
.1423 
.1608 
.1433 


Super- 
visory 
labor. 


Aver- 
age 
num- 
ber of 
opera- 
tive 
per 
set  of 
cards. 


$0.2£ 
.3162 
.3277 
.2521 
.2682 
.2455 
.2792 
.40<>3 
.3611 
.2530 
.3500 
.2625 
.2201 
.3195 
.2768 
.2771 
.2971 
.2786 
.2708 
.3821 
.3500 
.1762 
.2454 
.2027 
.2733 
.3050 


1.62 

.79 

1.14 

.81 

.88 

1.28 

1.11 

.84 

1.08 

1.36 

1.10 

.47 

.78 

1.50 

.64 

1.00 

.70 

.92 

1.60 

1.30 

.80 

3.29 

1.18 

.88 

.90 

2.50 


»  Supervisory  labor  includes  overseers,  second  bands,  third  hands,  and  section  hands. 

The  table  shows  that  the  production  of  machine  operatives  was 
lowest  for  establisliment  No.  26,  being  6.01  pounds  per  one-man 
hour,  and  highest  in  establishment  No.  2,  bemg  57.7  pounds  per 
one-man  hour. 

The  total  labor  cost  was  lowest  in  establishment  No.  2,  being  62 
cents  per  100  pounds,  and  highest  in  establishment  No.  26,  being 
$3.02  per  100  pounds. 

The  average  wage  rate  was  lowest  in  establishment  No.  17  for 
machine  operatives,  being  9.68  cents  per  hour,  and  highest  in  estab- 
lishment No.  9,  being  16.24  cents  per  hour. 

ENGLISH   OR  BRADFORD  SYSTEM   OF  COMBING. 

In  combing,  drawing,  and  spinning  worsted  yams  two  methods  or 
sjTstems  are  employed— the  EngHsh  or  Bradford  system,  and  the 
French  system.  The  former  is  employed  more  commonly  in  the 
worsted  mills  of  the  United  States  and  England,  while  the  latter  is 
the  one  used  in  mills  in  Continental  Europe.  However,  in  recent 
3'ears  the  French  system  has  been  introduced  in  this  country,  and 
although  it  is  to  be  found  only  in  a  few  mills,  it  is  there  employed  on 
a  large  scale. 

For  the  wool-combing  or  top-making  department  the  following 
schedule  was  used: 

Persons  employed. — Occupation,  country  of  birth,  number  of  males 
16  and  over  and  under  16,  number  of  females  16  and  over  and  under  16. 


1JEP0BT  OF   TARIFF  BOARD   ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


1027 


Machine. — Number  of  back-washing  machines,  number  of  pre- 
paratory and  finisher  gill  boxes,  number  of  Noble  and  Lister  combs, 
number  of  other  machines,  place  (country)  and  year  of  make. 

Time  and  earnings, — Total  hours  worked  on  product,  total  amount 
earned. 

Production. — Total  pounds  fed  to  machine,  pounds  of  tops  pro- 
duced, pounds  of  noils  produced,  pounds  of  waste  produced,  descrip- 
tion of  product. 

In  the  worsted  miUs  investigated,  where  tops  were  manufactured 
by  the  English  system  of  combing,  there  were  373  Noble  combs  and 
757  preparatory  and  finisher  gill-box  macliines  in  operation.  They 
were  operated  by  766  Noble  comb  and  gill-box  maclime  tenders.  In 
other  capacities  there  were  147  nonmachine  operatives  and  110  per- 
sons engaged  in  supervision.  In  the  combing  departments,  French 
and  Bradford  systems  combined,  84.5  per  cent  of  the  operatives 
were  foreign  born,  68.4  per  cent  being  from  Italy  and  eastern  and 
southeastern  Europe,  while  15.5  per  cent  were  natives  of  the  United 
States.     (See  Table  4,  page  957.) 

The  following  tables  show  the  country  of  manufacture  of  the  Noble 
combs  and  gill-box  machines,  and  number  of  years  in  operation: 

Table  54. — Noble  combs  in  use  in  worsted  mills  in  the  United  States. 


Total  Noble  combs. 

Noble  combs  manufactiu-ed  in — 

Years  in  operation. 

Nuraljer. 

Per  c-ent 
distribu- 
tion. 

United  States. 

England. 

Number. 

Per  cent 
distribu- 
tion. 

Number. 

Per  cent. 

distribu- 
tion. 

All  machines 

380 

100.0 

57 

100.0 

323 

100.0 

Less  than  5  years 

53 
136 
18 
46 
43 
47 
37 

14.0 
35.8 

4.7 
12.1 
11.3 
12.4 

9.7 

15 

11 

4 

8 

6 

13 

26.3 
19.3 
7.0 
14.1 
10.5 
22.8 

38 
1125 

2  14 

3  38 
37 
34 
37 

11.8 
38. 7 
4.3 
11.8 
11.5 
10.4 
1L5 

6  years  but  less  than  10  years 

10  years  but  less  than  15  vears 

15  years  but  less  than  20  years 

20  years  but  less  than  25  years 

25  years  but  less  than  30  years 

30  years  and  over 

1  Including  1  Lister  comb.  a  Including  4  Lister  combs. 


3  Including  2  Lister  combs. 


Table  55. —Preparatory  and  finisher  gill  boxes  (Bradford  system)  in  use   in  worsted 

mills  in  the  United  States. 


Total  gill  boxes. 

Preparatory  and  finisher  gill  boxes 
manufactxu-ed  in— 

Years  in  operation. 

Nnraber.' 

Per  cent 
distribu- 
tion. 

1 

United  States.      [          England. 

Number. 

1 
Per  cent  1 

dlstribu-   Number. 
tion. 

Per  cent 
distribu- 
tion. 

All  machines 

1767 

100.0 

37 

100.0 

702 

100.0 

Less  than  5  years 

137 
214 
68 
66 
116 
71 
67 

18.5 
29.0 
9.2 
8.9 
15.7 
9.6 
9.1 

5 

25 

7 

13.5 
67.6 
18.9 

132 
189 
61 
66 
116 
71 
67 

6  years  but  less  than  10  years 

18.8 

10  years  but  less  than  15  years 

26.9 

15  years  but  less  than  20  years 

8.7 

9.4 

16.5 

10.1 

9.0 

20  years  but  less  than  25  years 

25  years  but  less  than  30  years 

30  years  and  over 

— . 

'  Including  18  gill  boxes  place  and  date  of  manufacture  not  reported. 


1028 


REPOET  OF   TABIFF  BOAID   OK  SCHEDULE   K. 


The  table  for  Noble  combs  shows  that  of  a  total  of  380  combs  in 
the  mills  57,  or  only  15  per  cent,  were  manufactured  in  the  United 
States  and  323,  or  85  per  cent,  were  made  in  England. 

Fifty-three  combs,  or  14  per  cent,  were  in  use  less  than  5  years, 
and  154  combs,  or  40.5  per  cent,  5  years  but  less  than  15  years; 
89  combs,  or  23.4  per  cent,  were  in  use  15  years  and  over  but  less 
than  25  years,  while  84  combs,  or  22.1  per  cent,  were  in  operation 
25  to  30  years  and  over. 

The  table  for  gill  boxes  shows  that  of  the  total  of  757  in  use  the 
place  and  date  of  manufacture  of  18  was  not  reported.  Of  those  re- 
ported 37,  or  4.9  per  cent,  were  manufactured  m  the  United  States, 
and  702,  or  95.1  per  cent,  were  made  in  England.  One  hundred  and 
thirty-seven  gill  boxes,  or  18.5  per  cent,  w^ere  in  use  less  than  5 
years,  282,  or  38.2  per  cent,  5  years  and  over  but  less  than  15  years. 
One  liundred  and  eighty-two,  or  24.6  per  cent,  were  in  use  15  years 
and  over  but  less  tlian  25  years,  while  138  gill  boxes,  or  18.7  per 
cent,  were  in  use  25  to  30  years  and  over. 

The  following  table  of  estabhshments  manufacturing  tops  and 
arranged  in  the  order  of  the  average  count  of  yam  made  in  each  estab- 
lishment shows  the  productive  efficiency  of  the  machine  and  opera- 
tives, the  labor  oost  per  pound  and  per  100  pounds,  and  the  average 
wage  rate  by  establishments: 


Table  56.- 


COMBIXG   DErARTMENT   (BRADFORD   SYSTEM). 

Productive  effickncy  of  machine  and  operative,  labor  cost  per  pound  and  per 
100  pounds,  and  average  wage  rate,  by  establishments. 


Establishment. 


No.  1. 

No.  2. 
Ko.  3- 
No.  4. 
No.  5. 
No.  6. 
No.  7. 
No.  8. 
No.  9. 
No.  10 
No.  11 
No.  12 
No.  13 
Ko.  14 


Aver- 
ago 

count 
Of 

yarn 
made 

in 
mill. 


Production 

per  one-man 

hour. 


Ma- 
chine 
oponi- 
tivos. 


All 
opera- 
tives. 


Labor  cost  p<»r  pound  (not  Includ- 
ing repairs,  labor). 


Pro- 
duc- 
tive. 


Ma- 
chine 
opera- 
tive. 


18.05 
19.62 
19.75 
22.78 
27.00 
27.46 
31.18 
31.40 
31.60 


Lbs. 
12.8383 
16.7320 
21.3591 
21.0842 
42. 0877 
11.8742 
19.2020 
11.9770 
13. 6761 


32.6113.0021 
33.13  29.0789 
42.0011.2994 
42.10!  10. 5194 
42.58:18.3477 


Lbs 
11.8633 
14.0478 
15.9069 
15.3774 
28. 1327 
11.0618 
13. 9439 

8.6911 
11.4702 

8. 8124 
22. 8787 

9.9750 

8.2481 
14.2480] 


$0. 


Nonproduc- 
tive. 


Non- 
ma- 
chine 
opera- 
tive. 


Super- 
viso- 
ry.' 


0069 
.00€9|$0. 
.0055 
.0060 
.0027 
.0097 
.0068 
.0068 
.0093 
.0098 
.0037 

►  UUOD 

.0107 
.0058 


0010 
0010 
0016 
0008 


.0011 
.00301 
.0006 
.0029 
.0007 


.0021 
.0020 


10. 


Total  cost. 


Per 
pound. 


001910.0088 
00121    .0091 
.0084 
.0092 
.0048 


.0019 
.0016 
.0013 


0016     .0113 


.0029 
.0020 
.0029 
.0043 
.0010 
.0043 
.0027 
,0018 


.0108 
.0138 
.0128 
.0170 
.0054 
.0129 
.0155 
.0096 


Per 

100 

pounds 


Average  wage  rate 
per  hour. 


Ma- 
chine 
opera- 
tives. 


to.  88  SO.  0885 
.91     .1146 


.84' 

.92 

.48. 

1.13 

1.08] 

1.38| 

1.28 

1.70 

.54 

1.29 

1.55 

.96 


.11.S3 
.  12(>8 
.1146 
.1155 
.1303 
.1053 
.1267 
.1286 
.1079 
•  uycy 
.1122 
.1076 


Non- 
ma- 
chine 
opera^ 
lives. 


SO.  1436 
.1316 
.1404 
.116; 


.1378 
,1375 
,1425 
,  1577 
,1175 


.1373 
,2126 


Sui)er- 
visory 
iabor.i 


Aver- 
age 
nima- 
ber 
of 
opera- 
tives 
per 
comb. 


SO.  3000 
.2857 
.2198 
.2430 
.2738 
.2632 
.2493 
.2027 
.3014 
.2312 
.3100 
.3639 
.2568 
.2763 


2.60 
3.13 
2.17 
2.42 
1.57 
2.33 
2.09 
2.85 
2.11 
2.84 
1.66 
3.25 
3.54 
2.65 


» Supervisory  labor  includes  overseers,  second  hands,  third  hands,  and  section  hands. 

The  table  shows  that  the  production  of  machine  operatives  was 
lowest  for  establishment  No.  13,  being  10.51  pounds  per  one-man  hour 
and  highest  for  establishment  No.  5,  being  42.08  pounds  per  one-man 
hom*.     The  total  labor  cost  was  lowest  for  establishment  No.  5,  being 


REPORT  OF   TARIFF  BOARD   02T   SCHEDULE  K. 


1029 


48  cents  per  100  pounds,  and  highest  for  establishment  No.  10,  being 
$1.70  per  100  pounds. 

The  average  wage  rate  was  lowest  in  estabhshment  No.  1  for 
machine  operatives,  being  8.85  cents  per  hour,  and  highest  in  estab- 
lishment No.  7,  being  13.03  cents  per  hour. 

FRENCH   SYSTEM   OF   COMBING. 

The  schedule  used  for  French  combing  was  the  same  as  that  for  the 
Bradford  system. 

In  the  establishments  investigated  there  were  277  French  combs  in 
operation.  They  were  operated  by  290  machine  tenders.  There  were 
also  25  nonmachine  operatives  and  25  supervisory  employees. 

The  following  tables  show  the  country  of  manufacture  of  the 
machines  and  the  number  of  years  in  operation: 

Table  57. — French  combs  in  use  in  worsted  mills  in  the  United  States. 


Total  French 

French  combs  manufactured  in — 

Years  in  operation. 

combs. 

United  States, 

Germany. 

France. 

Num- 
ber. 

Per 
cent 
distri- 
bution. 

Num- 
ber. 

Per 
cent 
distri- 
bution. 

Num- 
ber. 

Per 

cent 

distri- 

bution- 

Num- 
ber. 

Per 

cent 
distri- 
bution. 

All  machines 

277 

100.0 

255 

100.0 

22 

100.0 

Less  than  5  vears 

80 
136 

28.9 
49.1 

60 
136 

23.5 
53.3 

20 

90  9 

6  years  but  less  than  10  years 

10  years  but  less  than  15  years 

15  years  but  less  than  20  vears ' 

2 

59 

.7 
21.3 

2 

9  1 

20  years  but  less  than  25  years 

59 

23.2 

25  years  but  less  than  30  years 

30  years  and  over 

Table  58.- 


-Preparatory  and  finisher  gill  boxes,  French  combing,  in  use  in  worsted  mill* 

in  the  United  States. 


Total  prepar- 
ing and  fin- 

Preparing and  finishing  gill  boxes  manufactured  in — 

Years  In  operation. 

ishing  gill 
boxes. 

United  States. 

England. 

Germany. 

France. 

Num- 
ber. 

Per 
cent 
dis- 
tribu- 
tion. 

Num- 
ber. 

Per 
cent 
dis- 
tribu- 
tion. 

Num- 
ber. 

Per 
cent 
dis- 
tribu- 
tion. 

Num- 
ber. 

Per 
cent 

dis- 
tribu- 
tion. 

Num- 
ber. 

Per 

cent 
dis- 
tribu- 
tion. 

Ail  machines 

125 

100.0 

3 

100.0 

90 

100.0 

32 

100.0 

Less  than  5  years 

42 

78 
3 
2 

33.0 

02.4 

2.4 

1.6 

3 

100.0 

26 
64 

28.9 
71.1 

13 

14 

3 

2 

40.6 
43.7 

Q  4 

6  years  but  less  than  10  years.  . 

lOyears  but  less  than  15  years. . 

15  years  but  less  than  20  years. . 

6.3 

20  years  but  less  than  25  vears. . 

.  .. 

25  years  but  less  than  30  years. . 

30  years  and  over 

■ 

.     .. 

"    1 

The  table  sliows  that  of  the  total  of  277  French  combs,  255,  or  92.1 
per  cent,  were  made  in  Germany,  and  22,  or  7.9  per  cent,  were  made 
111  France. 

aSOSC—II.  Doc.  342,  62-2,  vol  2 27 


1080 


EEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEI>ITLE  K. 


There  were  none  manufactured  in  the  United  States. 

^.r5  1  ^"^''^'.T.^^'  ^^  ^^*^  P®^  P®^*'  ^®^®  ^  operation  less  than  5 
years,  i^b,  or  49.1  per  cent,  were  m  use  5  years  and  over  but  less  than 
15  years;  61  or  22  per  cent,  were  in  use  15  years  and  over  but  less  than 
.25  years,     ihere  were  none  in  use  25  vears  or  over. 

The  foDowing  table  shows  the  productive  efficiency  of  French 
combing  machines  and  operatives,  the  labor  cost  per  pound  and  per 
100  pounds,  and  the  average  wage  rate  by  establishments: 

Table  59.~Produfive  effidmcy  of  machine  and  operative,  labor  cost  per  pound  and 
per  100  pounds,  andmerage  wage  rate,  by  establishments. 


Establish- 
ment. 


Aver- 
age 

count 
of  yam 

made 
in 

mill. 


Production 

per  one-man 

hour. 


No.  1... 
No.  2... 
No.  3.... 
No.  4.... 
No.  5 


Ma- 
chine 
opera- 
tives. 


An 

opera- 
tives. 


Labor  cost  per  pound  (not  i:i- 
cludiug  repairs  labor). 


Pro- 
dao- 
tive. 


Lbs.     IM. 

31. 60(15. 453(W12. 5261 ».  0064 
on  ajtAT  iji  ABMt        ruw^i 


33.91 
84.78 

as.  00 

39.98 


20.8407 

8.8847 
13. 2120 


16.4541 

7.8017 

11.1227 


Ma- 

cliiue 
opera- 
tives. 


Nonpro- 
ductive— 


Total  cost. 


Non- 

ma- 
chine 
opera- 
tives. 


Sup- 
ervis- 
ory 
labor.i 


13.730612.2716 


.0062 
.0109 


$aooi2 

.0005 

.0020 

0010 

0003 


.0080     .0010 
.0073^    .0003] 


SO.  0009 
.0019 
.0017 
.0023 
.0020 


Per 

pound. 


Per 

100 

pounds 


Averase  wage  rate 
per  hour. 


$0.0085 

.oas6 

.0140 
.0113 
.0096 


Ma. 

chine 
opera- 
tives. 


Non- 
ma- 
ctiine 
opera- 
tives. 


10.  S.'i  10. 0982  SO.  1074 
.1288  .1226 
.0966  .2126 
.1052  .1182 
.  1000     .  1151 


Su- 

pervis- 

Ory.i 


SO.  2285 
.2289 
.2775 
.3802 
.3492 


Aver- 
age 
num- 
ber 
of 
opera- 
tives 
per 
comb. 


1.25 
.85 
1.50 
l.ll 
1.12 


1  Supervisory  labor  includes  overseers,  second  hands,  third  hands,  and  section  hands. 

The  table  shows  that  the  production  of  machine  operatives  was 
hour  estabhshment  No.  2,  being  20.84  pounds  per  one-man 

The  total  labor  cost  was  lowest  in  establishment  No.  1.  beins  86 
cents  per  100  pounds  and  highest  in  estabhshment  No.  3,  being  $1  46 
per  100  pounds.  '        ^ 

The  average  wage  rate  was  lowest  in  estabhshment  No.  3.  for 
lisliment  No.  2,  bemg  12.88  cents  per  hour. 

^\.Z  F^Tl™"*  Vlu""*^  ^^'^^J^  ^^^*  P^^  1^^  Po^ds  ^^  t<>Ps  made  on 
the  Ji-nghsh  and  the  French  svstem,   although  not  conclusive  in 

showing  whether  or  not  the  labor  cost  is  lower  on  tops  made  on 
i^  rench  combs  than  on  tops  made  on  English  or  Bradford  combs  is 
nevertheless  mteresting.  ' 

Reference  to  Tables  56  discloses  the  fact  that  establishments  7  8 
and  9  made  an  average  count  of  yarn  of  about  31s.  The  total  labor 
cost  per  100  pounds  of  finished  tops  made  on  Bradford  systm  of 
combing  was  m  those  establishments,  $1.08,  $1.38,  and  $1.28. 
respectively.  Establishment  No.  1  in  the  table  for  French  comb^ 
ing  made  tops,  on  French  combs,  that  later  were  spun  into  varn 
also  of  an  average  count  of  about  31s.,  and  establishment  No.  2  made 
tops,  on  1?  rench  combs,  for  even  a  finer  count  of  yarn  (34s.).     Yet 

h^^'^at^^^^^^^''  ^^^  P^."^^^"  ^^^^'  ^^  ^^«^«  *^«  establishments, 
omy  $u.85  and  $0.86,  respectively,  as  compared  with  $1.08,  $1.28, 


EEPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOAED  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


1031 


and  $1.38  for  the  establishments  making  English  tops  of  about  the 

same  grade.  ,      , ,  ,        ,  i.i.  t 

In  making  comparisons  care  should  be  taken  to  compare  estabhsn- 
ments  making  about  the  same  average  count  of  yarn,  the  reason 
beincr  that  for  the  different  counts  wools  varying  in  fineness  are  used. 
The  speed  of  the  circles  in  the  Noble  combs  vaiy,  in  a  general  way, 
with  the  quality  of  the  wool;  the  finer  the  wool  the  slower,  in  general, 
the  speed  of  the  circles. 

BRADFORD  SYSTEM   OP  DRAWING. 

For  the  drawing  department  the  following  schedule  was  used: 
Persons  employed. — Occupation,  country  of  birth,  number  of  males 
16  and  over  and  under  16,  number  of  females  16  and  over  and  under  16. 
Drawing  frames. — Name,  number,  place   (country),  and  year  of 

make. 

Time  and  earnings. — Total  hours  worked  on  product,  total  amount 

earned. 

Production. — Pounds  produced,  description  of  roving. 

In  the  worsted  mills  investigated  both  the  English  and  French  sys- 
tems of  drawing  are  in  use,  a  few  mills  using  both  systems.  The  chief 
differences  between  the  two  systems  when  employed  on  similar  mate- 
rial, as  fine  wool,  are  as  follows: 

There  are  more  processes  in  the  French  system.  No  twist  is  em- 
ployed in  the  French  drawing,  while  in  English  or  Bradford  drawing 
more  or  less  twist  is  given  to  the  fibers.  Through  the  use  of  the  porcu- 
pine (pins  through  which  the  drawing  passes)  the  openness  of  the  fibers 
IS  preserved  down  to  the  roving.  There  are  fewer  drafts  or  doublings 
than  in  the  English  system.  Smaller  rollers  are  employed,  which 
more  effectively  deal  with  shorter  materials.  Owing  to  the  absence  of 
the  spiadle  winding  on  arrangement  there  is  the  minimum  strainiug 
of  the  slubbings  and  little  or  no  production  of  irregularities. 

In  both  systems  the  object  is  the  same — to  reduce  the  tops  to  a  thin 
sliver  or  roving  that  can  be  spun  when  thus  drawn  into  a  fine,  even 
thread. 

One  of  the  pruicipal  merits  of  the  French  system  of  drawing  is  the 
fact  that  it  is  better  adapted  than  the  English  or  Bradford  system 
for  short,  fine  wools  havmg  staples  from  2J  to  6  inches  in  length, 
especially  for  fine  wools  having  staples  from  3^  to  4^  inches  long.  It 
is  significant  that  in  the  newer  ana  larger  mills  in  the  United  States 
this  system  of  drawing  has  been  introduced  on  a  large  scale,  and  is 
becoming  of  greater  importance  in  the  industry. 

In  establishments  using  the  system  there  were  2,50Q  drawing 
frames,  and  of  these  2,148  were  in  operation.  They  were  operated 
by  1,275  machine  tenders. 

In  other  capacities  connected  with  the  drawing  there  were  346 
nonmacliine  operatives  and  105  persons  engaged  in  supervision.  In 
the  drawing  departments  73.5  per  cent  of  the  drawing-frame  tenders 
were  foreign  bom,  47.5  per  cent  being  from  Italy  and  eastern  and 
southeastern  Europe,  while  26.5  per  cent  were  natives  of  the  United 
States.     (See  Table  4,  page  957.) 

The  table  following  shows  the  country  of  manufacture  of  the 
drawing  frames  used  for  the  Bradford  system  of  drawing  and  the 
number  of  years  they  have  been  in  operation. 


1032 


EEPOKT  OP  TABIPP  BOABD  ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


Table  GO.— Drawing  frames  (Bradford  mfstem)  in  me  in  worsted  mills  in  the  United 

States. 


Total  drawing 

Drawing  frames  manufactured  In — 

Years  In  operation. 

(ramcs. 

United  States. 

England. 

Number. 

Per  cent 
distribu- 
tion. 

Number. 

Per  cent 
distribu- 
tion. 

Number. 

Per  cent 

dlsfribu- 

tion. 

All  macbjnes 

12,500 

100.0 

273 

100.0 

» 2.227 

100. 0 

Less  than  5  years 

797 
628 
128 
434 
92 
214 
129 

32.9 
26.0 
5.2 
17.9 
3.8 
8.9 
5.3 

153 
31 
21 
35 

56.0 

11.4 

7.7 

12.8 

644 
597 
105 
399 
92 
183 
127 

5  years  but  less  than  10  years 

30.  Q 

10  years  but  less  than  15  vears 

27.3 

15  years  but  less  than  20  years 

4.9 

20  j'oars  bu t  less  than  25  years 

18.  o 
4.3 

25  years  but  le^s  than  30  years 

31 
2 

11.4 

.7 

30  years  .«nd  over 

8.5 

5.9 

1  Including  &0  machines,  date  of  manufacture  cot  reported. 

The  table  shows  that  of  a  total  of  2,500  machines,  2,227,  or  89.1 
per  cent  were  manufactured  in  England  and  but  273,  or  10.9  per  cent, 
were  made  m  the  United  States.  For  80  machines  the  year  of  manu- 
facture was  not  reported;  797,  or  32.9  per  cent,  were  in  use  less  than 
6  years;  754,  or  31.2  per  cent,  were  in  use  5  years  and  over  but  less 
than  15  years;  526,  or  21.7  per  cent,  were  in  use  15  years  and  over  but 
less  than  25  years;  while  343,  or  14.2  per  cent,  were  in  use  25  to  30 
yeara  and  over.  The  following  table  shows  the  productive  efficiency 
of  the  machmes  and  operatives,  labor  cost  per  pound  and  per  100 
pounds,  and  average  wage  rate,  by  estabhshments: 

Table  ei.^Prodiidhe  ejjfldenqf  of  machine  and  operatic,  labor  cost  per  pound  and  per 

100  pounds,  and  average  wage  rate,  by  establishments. 


Estalillsh- 
meut. 


No.  L... 
No.  2.... 

No.  3 

No.  4.... 

No.  5 

No.  f>.... 
No.  7.... 
No.  8.... 

No.  9 

No.  10... 
No.  11... 
No.  12... 
No.  13.... 
No.  14-.. 
No.  15.... 
No.  16.... 


Aver- 
age 

count 
of  yarn 

made 
in  mill. 


Production 
per  one-man 


Ma- 
chine 
opera- 
tlTes. 


Labor  cost  per  pound  (not  Including 
repairs  laborj. 


All 
opera- 
tives. 


Pro- 
duc- 
tive, 


Ma- 
chine 
opera- 
tives. 


Nonproduc- 
tive. 


Lh9. 

18.05  a  4111 
19.42|  7.0379 
19.75,11.8816 
22.7811.3126 
24.2311.5017 
24.39!  5.  5554 
27.00:i6.6194 
27. 4«  6.7116 
30.  2413.  2245 
31. 18(11.9176 
31.4010.3753! 
31.60!  6.9725! 
33.13  7.7411 
42. 00  5.  24mr 
42.10  4.2771' 
42.58  7.9894 


Lbs 
5.8683 
5w8490 
9.3998 

7.9005 
9. 3175 
4.428.5 
9. 5132 
6. 8713 
9.6984 
8.6897 
8.7094 
6.  5359 
7.1435 
5.1606 
3  7811 
6.3286 


Non- 
ma- 
chine 
opera- 
tives. 


$0. 


0142 
0176 
0082 
0109 
0105 
0193 
00t>8 
0154 
0095 
0116 
0126 
020.S 
0162i 
0180 
02641 
0127 


Super- 
viso- 
ry.* 


Total  cost 


Per 
pound. 


$0. 0010 
.f)024i 
.0016 
,0034 
.0020 
.0043 
.0040 
.0006 
.0020 
.0028 
.0024 

."666»> 


.(X)16 
.0018 


ia0027 

.0020; 

.(hud; 

.fK)14 
.0010 
.0032 
.0018 
.0031 
.0031 
.0019 
.0007 
.0025 
.0015 
.0014 
.0042 
.0033 


$0.0179 
.  0-220 
.0117 
.n!57 
.0135 
.0268 
.0126 
.  0191 
.0146 
.0163 
.  0157 
.0233 
.0183 
.0194 
.0322 
.0178 


Per  100 
pounds. 


Average  wage  rata 
per  hour. 


tl.79 
2.20 
1.17 
1.67 
1.35 
2.68 
1.26 
1.91 
1.46 
1.63 
1.57 
2.33 
1.83 
1.94 

1.78 


Mar 

chine 
opera- 
tives. 


Non- 
ma- 
chine 
opera- 
lives. 


10.0913 
.1239 
.0979 
.1238 
.1209 
.1071 
.1129 
.1038 
.1258 
.1382 
.1309 
.1453 
.1256 
.0944 
.1131 
.  10171 


Super- 
visory 
labor.! 


10. 1350  $0.3818 


Avep- 
aga 
num- 
ber of 
opera- 
tives 
per 
draw- 
ing 
frame. 


1161 
.1050 
.1049 
,1258 
.1160 
.1020 
.0948 
,1000 
,1167 
,1470 

"ieoo 


,1261 
,0906] 


.2481 
.2820 
.2452 
.2241 
.3667 
.3071 
.2016 
.4124 
.2810 
.3000 
.2612 
.2166 
.5272 
.2345 
.2478 


0.59 
.50 
.76 
.66 
.37 
.88 
.89 

1.27 
.90 
.72 

1.04 
.67 
.59 
.47 
.65 
.61 


! 


BEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD   01^   SCHEDULE   K, 


1033 


The  table  shows  that  the  production  of  machine  operatives  was 
lowest  for  estabhshment  No.  16,  being  4.28  pounds  per  one  man-hour, 
and  highest  for  establishment  No.  7,  being  16.62  pounds  per  one  man- 
hour. 

The  total  labor  cost  was  lowest  for  estabhslmient  No.  3,  being  $1.17 
per  100  pounds  and  highest  in  establishment  No.  16,  being  $3.22  per 
100  poimds. 

The  average  wage  rate  per  hour  was  lowest  in  establishment  No.  1 
for  machine  operatives,  being  9.13  cents  per  hour,  and  highest  in 
establishment  No.  12,  being  14.53  cents  per  hour. 

In  15  of  the  17  establishments  shown  m  the  above  table,  the  total 
labor  cost  was  less  than  $2.35  per  100  pounds  of  roving.  In  com- 
paring data  on  production  and  labor  cost  per  pound  of  roving,  it 
should  be  remembered  that  both  should,  in  general,  vary  with  the 
count  of  tlie  yarn  for  which  the  roving  is  made.  The  finer  the  yam 
the  finer  the  roving  must  be,  and  as  a  consequence  the  greater  the 
number  of  drafts  and  of  machine  operations  to  produce  the  finer 
roving,  and  the  smaller  the  number  of  pounds  turned  off  in  a  given 
time, 

DRAWING  (FRENCH  SYSTEM). 

The  schedule  for  French  drawing  was  the  same  as  for  English  or 
Bradford  drawing.  In  the  estabhshments  investigated  there  were 
489  French  drawing  frames  in  operation.  They  were  operated  by 
523  machine  tenders.  There  were  also  88  nonmachhie  operatives 
and  30  of  a  supervisory  force. 

The  following  table  shows  the  country  of  manufacture  of  the 
machines  and  the  number  of  years  in  operation. 

Table  62. — French  drawing  frames  in  use  in  worsted  mills  in  the  United  States. 


Total 

French 

drawing 

frames. 

French  drawing  frames  manufactured  in- 

Tears  in  operation. 

United 

States. 

England. 

Germany. 

France. 

Num- 
ber. 

Per 
cent 

dis- 
tribu- 
tion. 

Num- 
ber. 

Per 
cent 

dis- 
tribu- 
tion. 

Num- 
ber. 

Per 
cent 

dis- 
tribu- 
tion. 

Num- 
ber. 

Per 
cent 

dis- 
tribu- 
tion. 

Num- 
ber. 

Per 
cent 

dis- 
tribu- 
tion. 

All  machines 

489 

100.0 

201 

100.0 

192 

100.0 

.   36 

100.0 

Less  than  5  years 

232 
76 
22 
57 
74 
28 

47.5 
15.5 
4.5 
11.7 
15.1 

^^ 

138 

52.9 

94 

76 
22 

48.9 
39.6 
11.5 

5  years  but  less  than  10  years 

10  years  but  less  than  15  years 

15  years  but  less  than  20  years 

20  years  but  less  than  25  years 

25  years  but  less  than  30  years 

30  years  and  over 

'"21" 

74 
28 

"  '8."6' 
28.4 
10.7 

""36* 

"166.0 

The  table  shows  that  of  a  total  of  489  machines,  261,  or  53.4  per 
cent,  were  manufactured  in  England;  192,  or  39.3  per  cent,  in  Ger- 
many, and  36,  or  7.3  per  cent,  were  made  in  France.  There  were 
none  manufactured  in  the  United  States. 


» Supervisory  labor  includes  overseers,  second  hands,  third  hands,  and  section  hands. 


1034 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFP  BOABD  OK  SCHEBULE  K. 


Two  hundred  and  tMrty-two  machines,  or  47.5  per  cent,  were  in 
operation  less  than  5  years.  Ninety-eight  machines,  or  20  per  cent, 
5  years  and  over  but  less  than  15  years.  One  hundred  and  thirty- 
one,  or  26.8  per  cent,  were  in  uso  15  years  and  over  but  less  than  25 
years,  while  28,  or  5.7  per  cent,  were  in  use  25  to  30  yeare  and  over. 

The  following  table  snows  the  productive  efficiency  of  the  machines 
and  operatives,  the  labor  cost  per  pound  and  per  100  pounds,  and  the 
average  wage  rate  ''by  establishments." 

Table  63. — Productive  efficiency  of  machine  and  operative,  labor  cost  per  pound  and  per 

100  pounds,  and  average  wage  rate,  by  establishments. 


£stab)isli- 
ment. 


Aver- 
se 
cmont 
of  yarn 
made 
in  mill. 


Production 

per  one-man 

liour. 


Ma- 
chine 
o|)er- 
ativcs. 


No.l 

No.  2 

No.  3 

No.  4 

No.  5 

No.  6.. 


21.11 


6.96801 


31.6010.0690 
33.9110.8247 
38.  go!  8.5990 
39.9811.3823 
47.14  8.5405 


All 

oper- 
atives. 


Labor  cost  per  pound  (not  includ- 
ing repairs  labor;. 


Pro- 
duc- 
tive. 


Xonprodno- 
tlve. 


Ma> 

oper- 
atives. 


Nonr 

chiiui  i  Super- 

J5^  visory. 

atives.' 


Xftt. 

6.  (M30i$0. 0183  $0. 0022 10. 0018 


Total  cost. 


Per 

pound 


8.6211 
9.4994 
7  0968 
8.1657 
7.3432 


.0108| 

.0122 

.0123 

.0101 

.0168 


.0009 

.0007' 

.00171 

.0031 

.OOlSi 


.0031 

.00161 

.0023 

.0017 

.0013 


$0.0223 
.0148 
.0145 
.0163 
.0149 
.01961 


Per  100 
pounds. 


Averaj!;e  was:©  rate 
l)cr  hour. 


Ma- 
chine 
oper- 
atives. 


Non- 
ma- 
chine 
oper- 
atives. 


Super- 
visory 
labor.* 


Aver- 
age 
num- 
ber of 
oper- 
atives 
per 
draw- 
ing 
frame. 


2.23,10.1275 

1.48     .1086 


1.45 
1.63 

1.491 
1.96i 


.1325 

.1059 
.1152 
.1440 


SO.  1505 
.1275 
.1110 
.1099 
.1000 
.1175 


SO.  2500 
.3339 
.2527 
.2446 
.4242 
.2000 


0.62 
1.28 

1.29 
1.71 
1.11 


t  Supervisory  labor  includes  overseers,  second  hands,  third  hands,  and  section  hands. 

The  table  shows  that  the  production  of  the  machine  operatives 
was  lowest  for  establishment  No.  1,  being  6.97  pounds  per  one-man 
hour  and  highest  for  establishment  No.  5,  being  11.38  pounds  per  one- 
man  hour. 

The  total  labor  cost  was  lowest  for  establislmaent  No.  3,  being 
$1.45  per  100  pounds,  and  highest  in  establishment  No.  1,  being 
$2.23  per  100  pounds. 

The  average  wage  rate  was  lowest  in  ostablislmient  No.  4  for 
machine  operatives,  being  10.59  cents  per  hour,  and  highest  in  estab- 
lishment No.  6,  being  14.40  cents  per  hour. 

It  has  been  statea  above  that  in  the  French  s}^tem  '4here  are 
fewer  drafts  or  doublings  than  in  the  English  system'' ;  that  is,  less 
handling  and  fewer  macliine  operations.  There  should  be,  therefore, 
a  lower  labor  cost  per  100  pounds  of  rovings;  and  a  comparison  of 
Tables  61  and  63,  showing  labor  cost  for  English  drawmg  and  French 
drawing,  respectively,  demonstrates  this  to  be  so. 

FRAME  SPINNING  ( WORSTED). 

For  the  frame-spinning  department  the  following  schedule  was 
used: 

Persons  employed. — Occupation,  country  of  birth,number  of  males  16 
and  over  and  under  16,  number  of  females  10  and  over  and  under  16. 


I, 


BEPOBT  or  TABIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


1035 


Frame'Spinning  machines, — Number  and  kind  of  frames,  number 
of  spindles  and  speed,  number  of  frames  per  spinner,  number  of 
spindles  per  spinner,  place  (country)  and  vear  of  make. 

Time  and  earnings. — Total  hours  worked  on  product,  total  amount 
earned. 

Production. — ^Pounds  of  yam  produced,  counts  of  yarn  produced, 
twists  per  inch  of  yarn,  description  of  yarn. 

In  tlie  estabUshments  investigated  m  which  worsted-frame  spin- 
ning was  carried  on  there  were  1,346  frames  equipped  with  259,496 
spindles.  They  were  operated  by  1/702  machine  tenders,  1,107  being 
frame  spinners  and  595  doffers.  There  were  also  487  nonmacliine 
operatives  and  146  of  a  supervisory  force. 

In  the  spinning  departments,  mule  and  frame  departments  com- 
bined, of  the  mills  investigated  59.9  per  cent  of  the  emploj^ees  were 
foreign  born,  39.9  per  cent  being  from  Italy,  eastern  and  south- 
eastern Europe,  while  40.1  per  cent  were  natives  of  the  United  States. 
(See  Table  4,  page  957.) 

The  following  table  shows  the  country  of  manufacture  of  the  frame- 
spinning  macliines,  and  the  number  of  years  they  were  in  operation: 

Table  64. — Spinning  frames  in  use  in  worsted  mills  in  the  United  States. 


Years  in  operation. 


All  machines 

Less  than  5  years 

5  years,  but  less  than  10  years. 
10  years,  but  less  than  15  years 
15  years,  but  less  than  20  years 
20  years,  but  less  than  25  years 
25  years,  but  Jess  than  30  years 
30  years  and  over 


Total 
frames. 


Num- 
ber. 


1,346 


273 
559 
109 
76 
98 
116 
115 


Per 
cent 

dls- 

tribu- 

tlon. 


Frames  manufactured  In- 


United  States. 


Num- 
ber. 


100.0 


20.3 
41.5 
8.1 
5.6 
7.3 
8.6 
8.6 


113 


Per 
cent 

dis- 
tribu- 
tion. 


100.0 


England. 


Num- 
ber. 


1,187 


36 
66 
21 


31.9 
49.6 
18.5 


221 

483 

78 

76 

98 

116 

115 


Per 
cent 

dis- 
tribu- 
tion. 


100.0 


18.6 
40.7 
6.6 
6.4 
8.2 
9.8 
9.7 


Germany. 


Num- 
ber. 


46 


16 
20 
10 


Per 
cent 
dis- 
tribu- 
tion. 


100.0 


34.  S 
43.5 
21.7 


The  table  shows  that  of  the  total  of  1,346  frame-spinning  machines 
in  operation,  113  or  8.4  per  cent  were  manufactured  in  the  United 
States,  1,187  or  88.2  per  cent  were  made  in  England,  and  46  or  3.4 
per  cent  were  made  in  Germany.  Two  hundred  and  seventy-three 
machines  or  20.3  per  cent  were  in  operation  less  than  5 years; 668 
machines  or  49.6  per  cent  were  in  operation  5  years  and  over  but  less 
than  15  years;  174  machines  or  12.9  per  cent  were  in  operation  15 
3'ears  and  over  but  less  than  25  years,  while  231  macliines  or  17.2  per 
cent  were  in  use  25  to  30  years  and  over. 


1036 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  OF  SCHEDULE  K. 


The  following  table  shows  the  productive  efficiency  of  the  machines 
and  operatives,  the  labor  cost  per  pound,  and  the  average  wage  rate 
by  establisliments: 

Tabls  65. — Productive  efficiency  of  machine  and  operative,  labor  cost  per  pound  and  pet 

100  pounds,  and  average  wage  rate,  by  establishments. 


Ho. 
No. 
Ka 
No. 
No. 
Na 
No. 
No. 
No.  10 
No.  11 
No.  12 
No.  13 
No.  14 
Nal3 
No.  16 
Nal7 


o 


S 


18.05 
19.62 
19.76 
22.78 
24.23 
24.39 

27.00 
27.46 
29.  SO 
31.18 
31.60 
32.61 

42.00 
42.10 
42. 3S 


4 
a 


Production. 


^ 


5.35 

12.09 

8.50 

9.60 

9.60 

12.70 

8.80 

10.60 

11.40 

1Z30 

12.70 

11.50 

13. 18 

15.60 

9.00 

14.42 

12.90 


0 
S  o 


Per  one- 
man  hour. 


Lbs. 
0.0586J 
.0381 
.0726 
.0643 
.0263 
.0166 
.0390 
.0504 
.0264 
.0281 
.0435 
.0379 
.0292 
.0283 
.0266 
.0339 
.0327 


if 

a  S 

o 


Lbs.     Lb.i. 
5.6532  4.9111 


Cup 
o  > 


Labor  cost  per  pound  (not 
including  repairs  labor). 


OT 

^ 


€  O 

9   m 


1: 


3.2705 

a  5459 

11.5992 

4.  7018 
5.2850 

3.  7675 
8.3<>53 
4. 1086 
3.7940 
7.8873 

5.  3762 
5. 1142 
4.6408 

4.  2314 
3.2127 
4.3546 


2. 3778 
7.0183 
7.5240 
2.9651 
3.6611 
2.9669 
5.9431 
3.0493 
3.  3401 
5.6858 
3.8850 
3.  4543 
3.  9112 
3.3(^3 
2.4647 
3.7330 


$0. 


0113 
0298 
0101 
0115 
0251 
0181 
0303 
0121 
0209 
0260 
0156 
0200 
0245 
0271 
0258 
0341 
0211 


Nonproduc- 
tive. 


sa 


0011 
0089 
0015 
0O4O 
0121 
0060 
0050 
0040 
0055 
0033 
0039 
0065 
0081 

(mi 

0040 
0070 
0022 


10. 


0028 
0047 
0022 
0025 
0059 
0042 
0069 
0031 
0071 
0029 
0032 
0044 
0091 
0036 
0068 
0055 
0030 


Total  cost. 


1 

P-4 


S4 


so.  0152 
.0434 
.0138 
.0180 
.04.31 
.0273 
.(H22 
.0192 
.0335 
.0322 
.0226 
.0309 
.0417 
.03^18 
.0356 
.(M06 
.0263 


Average  wage  rate 
per  hour. 


I 

h 

O 

o 


8 


.s- 


i^ 


II.  52 10. 
4.34 
1.38 
1.80 
4.31 
2.73 
4.22 
1.92 
3.35 
3.22 

2.a> 

3.09 
4.17 
3.48 
3.56 
4. «) 
2.63 


II 

o 

S5 


06.39 
0975 
0866 
1329 
1178 
0s)55 
1141 
1016 
085S 
0988 
1222 
1076 
1250 
1259 
1092 
1096 
0919 


o 
«-_ 

Pt 

s 

CO 


10. 0569  $a  3818 


,0934 


0970  .  2113 


.1065 
.1161 
.0731 
.1071 
.1063 
.1013 
.1171 
,10)8 
.1229 
.1177 
.1490 
,  09-^0 
.1040 
.0778 


.2486 


.2654 
.2878 
.2533 
.2776 
.2768 
.2329 
.3723 
.2583 
.2352 
.3675 
.2823 
.2880 
.2007 
.2929 


a 


86 

67 
103 
130 
120 
236 

82 
122 
126 
121 
136 
112 
130 
135 
137 

77 

m 


Supervisory  labor  includes  overseers,  second  hands,  third  hands,  and  section  hands. 


The  table  shows  that  the  production  per  spindle  was  lowest  for 
establishment  No.  6,  being  1.66  pounds  per  spindle  per  100  houra, 
and  highest  for  establishment  No.  3,  being  7.26  pounds  per  spindle 
per  100  hours. 

The  production  of  machine  operatives  was  lowest  for  establishment 
Ko.  16,  being  3.21  pounds  per  one-man  hour,  and  highest  in  establish- 
ment No.  4,  being  11.60  pounds  per  one-man  hour. 

The  total  labor  cost  was  lowest  in  establishment  No.  3,  being  $1.38 
per  100  pounds,  and  highest  in  establishment  No.  16,  being  $4.66  per 
100  pounds.  The  average  wage  rate  for  machine  operatives  was 
lowest  in  establishment  No.  1,  being  6.4  cents  per  hour,  and  highest 
in  establishment  No.  4,  being  13.3  cents  per  hour. 

Detailed  comparisons  should  be  made  only  for  establishments  pro- 
ducing about  the  same  average  counts  of  yam  wdth  about  the  same 
twist  per  inch. 

For  example,  establishments  2  and  3  produced  approximately  the 
same  average  counts,  19.62  and  19.7$,  respectively.  There  was, 
however,  a  marked  difference  in  the  pounds  of  yarn  produced  per 
spindle  per  100  hours,  7.26  pounds  in  mill  No.  3  and  3.81  pounds  in 
mill  No.  2.  It  is  interesting  to  note  that  mill  No.  3  is  a  large  mill 
devoted  exclusively  to  making  yarns,  while  mill  No.  2  is  primarily  a 
weaving  mill  and  makes  only  such  yams  as  it  requires.  The  total 
number  of  frame  spindles  in  both  mills  was  approximately  equal, 
and  they  were  practically  all  cap  spindles.    Furthermore,  the  average 


REPORT  or  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


1037 


number  of  spindles  tended  by  one  spmner  was  approximately  the 
same  in  both  establishments. 

This  marked  difference  in  production  per  spindle  per  100  hours 
is  probably  due,  in  a  degree,  to  the  fact  that  the  mill  showiug  the 
higner  production  is  engaged  exclusively  in  the  manufacture  of  yam, 
while  tne  other  is  not,  and  that  during  the  periods  covered  by  our 
data  the  mill  with  the  higher  production  was  engaged  largely  in 
making  a  few  counts  of  yam  while  the  other  mill  spun  a  considerable 
variety  of  counts.  But  another  factor  of  great  importance — twist 
per  inch — accounts  in  a  very  large  degree  for  the  marked  difference 
shown.  The  mill  having  the  smaller  production  spun  its  yarn  with 
an  average  of  about  12  turns  to  the  inch,  while  the  other  mill  spun 
yarn  with  only  8.5  twists  per  inch. 

That  the  production  per  spindle  per  100  hours  in  mill  No.  3  is  not 
abnormal  is  indicated  by  data  supplied  by  mill  No.  11.  This  estab- 
lishment keeps  a  detailed  weekly  record  of  the  number  of  spindles 
spinning  each  count  of  yarn,  and  the  number  of  hours;  and  is  able  to 
snow  pounds  of  each  count  of  yarn  produced  per  spindle  per  week. 
The  records  of  the  frame-spinning  department  of  this  establishment 
for  a  typical  week  show  that  the  average  production  per  spindle  per 
66  houre  for  yarn  having  an  actual  count  01  19.86  and  approximately 
the  same  average  twist  was  4.17  pounds.  This  is  equivalent  to  a  pro- 
duction of  7.44  pounds  per  spindle  per  100  hours,  as  compared  with 
7.26  for  establishment  No.  3. 

Establishments  Nos.  5  and  6  produce  yams  of  average  counts  of 
24.23  and  24.39,  respectively.  The  production  per  spindle  per  100 
hours  was,  in  establishment  No.  5,  2.63  pounds  and  in  establishment 
No.  6,  1.66  pounds.  This  difference  is  largely,  if  not  entirely, 
accounted  for  by  the  fact  that  the  yam  made  by  mill  No.  6  had 
more  twist  than  the  yarn  spun  in  mill  No.  5 — 12.7  turns  per  inch  as 
compared  with  9.6  turns  per  inch. 

Establishments  Nos.  16  and  17  spin  about  the  same  size  and  twist 
of  worsted  yarn  (about  42s)  (42.10  and  42.58,  respectively). 

Both  mills  have  cap  spinning  frames  exclusively.  Mill  No.  16 
makes  yams  for  its  own  weaving  plant,  while  mill  No.  17  is  engaged 
exclusively  in  the  manufacture  of  yam  for  the  general  trade.  The 
former  is  not  in  or  near  a  center  of  woolen  or  worsted  manufacture, 
but  the  latter  is  located  in  one  of  the  principal  centers  of  the  industry 
in  this  country.  As  a  result  of  its  more  favorable  location  mill  No.  17 
is  enabled  to  secure  an  abundance  of  skilled  labor  at  a  moderate  rate 
of  wages,  while  mill  No.  16  must  pay  higher  wages  to  less  skilled  oper- 
atives. Because  of  the  fact  that  the  operatives  in  mill  No.  16  are 
largely  unskilled,  more  hands  are  required  to  operate  a  given  number 
of  spindles. 

As  an  inevitable  result  of  these  conditions,  mill  No.  16  shows  a 
much  higher  total  labor  cost  per  100  pounds  than  mill  No.  17 — $4.66 
as  compared  with  $2.63. 

It  is  interesting  to  note  that  mills  devoted  exclusively  to  the  manu- 
facture of  yarns  attained  a  higher  production  per  spindle  per  100 
hours.  This  is  true  also  of  establishments  which  are  large  producers 
of  yarn,  although  they  also  do  weaving.  Li  these  two  groups  are 
included  establishments  Nos.  1,  3,  4,  11,  13,  14,  and  17. 

The  average  wage  rate  per  hour  for  machine  operatives  is  lowest 
for  establishment  No.  1,  being  only  6.39  cents.     In  this  mill  young 


1038 


EEPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


female  labor  is  employee!  at  low  rates.  In  all  of  the  mills  where  the 
averajge  wage  rate  per  hour  for  macliiiie  operatives  fell  below  10  cents, 
a  majontv  of  the  operatives  were  females.  It  is  interesting  also  to 
observe  that  in  these  mills  the  average  wage  rate  per  hour  for  non- 
machme  operatives  was  nearly  as  high  (in  several  cases  higher)  as 
the  machme  operatives. 


Ml  LE    SPINNING,    WORSTED. 

For  the  mule  spinning  departments  the  following  scliedule  was  used : 
Persom  employed.— Occup&iion,  country  of  birth,  number  of  males 

16  and  over  and  under  16,  number  of  females  16  and  over  and  under 

16. 

Mules  spinning  macMnes.—Kumher,  number  of  spindles,  number 
of  spindles  per  mule,  number  of  spindles  per  spmner,  place  (country), 
and  year  of  make.  "^  ' 

Time  and  earnings.— Total  hours  worked  on  product,  total  amount 
earned. 

Production.—Pounds  of  yarn  produced,  count  of  yarn,  twists  per 
mch  of  yarn,  description  of  yarn. 

In  the  establisliments  investigated  hi  which  mule  spmmng  was 
carried  on  there  were  370  mules  in  operation  equipped  with  238,688 
spmdles.  They  were  operated  by  1,069  machme  operatives,  214 
being  mule  spinners  and  855  mule  spinners'  helpers,  joiners,  piecers, 
doners,  and  back  boys.  There  were  also  69  nonmachine  operatives 
and  35  persons  in  the  supervisory  force.  The  average  number  of 
spmdles  per  spmner  was  1,115,  and  the  average  number  of  spmdles 
per  mule  was  645.  Of  the  total  of  1,173  persons,  573  were  males  16 
years  of  age  and  over,  20  males  under  16;  573  also  were  females  16 
years  of  age  and  over  and  7  females  under  16. 

The  following  table  shows  tlie  country  of  manufacture  of  mule 
spinning  machines  and  the  number  of  years  they  were  in  operation : 

Table  GQ.— Worsted  mules  in  use  in  mills  in  the  United  States. 


Years  in  operation. 


Total  mulps. 


N'um- 
ber. 


Per 
ceBt 

trlbu- 
tion. 


Mules  manufactured  in- 


United  States. 


All  machines 370  '  100.0 


Num- 
ber. 


Per 

cent 

dls- 

trlbu- 

tion. 


England. 


Num- 
ber. 


Per 

cent 
dis- 
tribu- 
tion. 


2(13     100.0 


Less  than  5  rears 

5  years  but  less  than  10  years. . 
10  years  but  less  than  15  years. 
IS  years  but  less  than  20  years. 
20  years  but  less  than  25  years. 
25  years  but  less  than  30  years. 
30  years  and  over 


121 
12 
34 

100 
11 


24.9 
3*2.7 

3.2 

9.2 

27.0 

3.0 


74 
60 
4 
28 
60 
11 


28.1 
22.8 

1.5 
10.7 
32.7 

4.2 


Oennany. 


Num- 
ber. 


101 


Per 

cent 

dia- 

tribu- 

tJon. 


100.0 


France. 


Num- 
ber. 


Per 
cent 
dis- 
tribu- 
tion. 


100.0 


18 
61 

8 

"14 


17.8 

60.4 

7.9 

"ii'g" 


6 


100.0 


BEPORT   OF  TARIFF  BOARD   ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


1039 


The  table  shows  that  of  the  total  of  370  mule  spinning  machines  in 
operation  263,  or  71.1  per  cent,  were  manufactured  in  England;  101, 
or  27.3  per  cent,  in  Germany;  and  6,  or  1.6  per  cent,  in  France.  None 
were  manufactured  in  the  United  States.  Of  the  total  number  92 
maclunes,  or  24.9  per  cent,  were  in  operation  less  than  5  years;  133, 
or  35.9  per  cent,  5  years  and  over  but  less  than  15  years;  134,  or  36.2 
I)er  cent,  for  15  years  and  over  but  less  than  25;  while  11,  or  3  per 
cent,  were  in  operation  from  25  to  30  years  and  over. 

The  following  table  shows  for  each  estabhshment  the  average  count 
of  yarn  made,  the  average  twists  per  inch,  the  number  of  pounds  pro- 
duced per  spindle  per  hour,  and  per  one-man  hour  for  macliine  oper- 
atives, and  for  all  operatives  including  supervisory. 

It  also  shows  the  labor  cost  per  pound  (not  including  repairs  labor) 
for  macliine  operatives,  nonmachine  operatives,  supervisory,  and  total 
labor  cost,  together  with  the  average  wage  rate  per  hour  for  these 
groups  of  operatives : 

Table  67. — Productive  efficienq/  of  machine  and  operative,  labor  cost  per  pound  and  per 

100  pounds f  and  average  wage  rate,  by  establishments. 


. 

Aver- 

age 
count 

of 
yarn. 

Production. 

Lalx)r  cost  per  pound  (not  includ- 
ing repairs  labor). 

Average  wage  rate 
per  hour. 

Aver- 

Estab- 
lish- 

Per 

spin- 
dle 
per 

hour. 

Per  on©-man 
hour. 

Pro- 
duc- 
tive. 

Nonpro-              Total 
ductive.              cost. 

Ma- 
Chine 
opera- 
tives. 

Non- 
ma- 
chine 
opera- 
tives'. 

Super- 
visory 
labor». 

age 
num- 
ber 
of 

ment. 

Ma- 
chine 
opera- 
tives. 

AU 
opera- 
tives. 

Ma- 
chine 
opera- 
tives. 

Non- 
ma- 
chine 
opera- 
tives. 

Super- 
viso- 
ry.! 

Per 
pound. 

Per 

100 

ipounds 

spin- 
dies 
per 
opera- 
tive. 

"No.!... 
No.  2... 
No.  3... 
No.  4... 
No.  5... 
No.  6... 
No.  7... 
No.  8... 
No.  9... 

21.11 
30.24 
31.40 
31.60 
33.91 
34.78 
38.00 
39.98 
47.14 

Poundit 
0.0226 
.0199 
.0224 
.0206 
.0232 
.0144 
.0228 
.0192 
.0167 

Pouruh 
7.7794 
9. 1771 
8.5349 
3.8683 
9.5594 
3.5248 
3.9903 
2.8335 
7.3303 

Pounds 
6. 1204,$0. 0172 
6.8145     .0165 
6. 8715     . 0203 
3.3119     .0328 
8. 6276,    .  0201 
2.5393     .0386 
3.7613!    .0344 
2.  V206     .  0450 
6.3896|    .0253 

$0.0037 
.0029 
.0031 
.0051 
.0005 
.0077 
.0014 
.0018 
.0013 

10.0015 
.0034 
.0013 
.0031 
.0018 
.0157 
.0023 
.0018 
.0030 

$0.0224 
.0228 
.0247 
.0410 
.0224 
.0620 
.0381 
.0486 
.0296 

$2.24 
2.28 
2.47 
4.10 
2.24 
6.20 
3.81 
4.86 
2.96 

$0.1340 
.1515 
.1731 
.1268 
.1925 
.1359 
.1371 
.1275 
.1855 

$0.1253 
.0975 
.1421 
.1422 
.1080 
.1170 
.1706 
.1659 
.1286 

$0.2679 
.4124 
.1953 
.4221 
.2805 
.3566 
.3311 
.4545 
.3090 

268 
340 

322 
163 
369 
184 
148 
143 
400 

I  Supervisory  labor  includes  overseers,  second  hands,  third  hands,  and  section  hands. 

The  table  shows  that  the  production  per  spindle  was  lowest  for 
estabhshment  No.  6,  being  1.44  pounds  per  spindle  per  100  hours,  and 
highest  for  estabhshment  No.  5,  being  2.32  pounds  per  spindle  per  100 
hours.    . 

The  production  of  machine  operatives  was  lowest  for  estabhshment 
No.  8,  being  2.83  pounds  per  one-man  hour,  and  highest  for  estabhsh- 
ment No.  5,  being  9.56  pounds  per  one-man  hour. 

The  total  labor  cost  was  lowest  for  establishments  Nos.  1  and  5, 
being  $2.24  per  100  pounds  in  each,  and  highest  in  establishment  No. 
6,  being  $6.20  per  100  pounds. 


I"! 


1040 


BEPORT  OF  TABIFF  BOARD   02^   SCHEDULE  K* 


The  average  wage  rate  for  macliiiie  operatives  was  lowest  in  estab- 
Jishment  No.  4,  being  12.68  cents  per  hour,  and  highest  in  estabhsh- 
ment  No.  5,  being  19.25  cents  per  hour.  In  comparing  costs  and 
production  the  average  count  of  yam  and  the  average  tw^ts  per  inch 
should  always  be  considered. 

MULE   SPIXXIXG,    WOOLEN. 

The  schedule  used  for  carded  wool  mule  spinning  was  the  same  in 
form  as  that  used  for  worsted  mule  spinning. 

In  the  establisliments  investigated  there  were  580  woolen  mules  in 
operation  equipped  with  196,551  spindles.  They  were  operated  by  580 
machine  operatives.  There  were  also  197  nonmachme  operatives 
and  61  of  a  supervisory  force. 

The  following  table  shows  the  country  of  manufacture  of  the 
machmes  and  the  number  of  years  in  operation: 

Table  QS.— Carded  wool  mules  in  use  m  mUh  in  the  United  States, 


^''eara  In  operation. 


Total  mulw. 


Xurn- 
ber. 


Percent 
distri- 
bution. 


Mules  manufactured  in- 


United  States. 


t  Allmachjiies 

Less  than  5  years 

6  years  but  less  than  10  years. . . 
10  years  but  less  tban  15  years. . 
15  years  but  less  than  20  vears. . 
20  years  but  less  than  25  years. . 
25  years  but  less  than  30  years. . 
30  years  and  over 


588 


100.0 


47 

204 

143 

72 

47 

t% 

22 


8.0 

34.7 

24.3 

12.3 

8.0 

9.0 

3.7 


:i  um- 
ber. 


504 


Percent 
distri- 
bution. 


England. 


Num- 
ber. 


Percent 

distri- 
bution. 


100.0 


41 

109 

130 

58 

45 

53 

8 


8.2 
33.5 
25.8 
11.5 

8.9 
10.5 

1.6 


36 


9 

8 


14 


100.0 


Germany. 


Num-  |Pj;ffP* 

ber.      *lifj"" 
'bution. 


25.0 
13.9 

22.2 


38.9 


48 


100.0 


6 
26 
8 
6 
2 


12.5 
54.1 
Id.  7 
12.5 
4.2 


llie  table  shows  that  of  a  total  of  588  mules  in  the  establishments 
TT  •  III  operation),  504,  or  85.7  per  cent,  were  manufactured  in  the 
Umted  States;  36,  or 6.1  per  cent,  in  England;  and  48,  or 8.2  per  cent, 
in  Germany. 

Forty-seven  machines,  or  8  per  cent  of  the  total,  were  in  operation 
less  than  five  years.  Three  hundred  and  forty-seven  machines,  or 
59  per  cent,  were  in  operation  five  years  and  over  but  less  than  15 
years.  One  hundred  and  mneteen,  or  20.3  per  cent,  were  in  use  15 
years  and  over  but  less  than  25  vears,  wliile  75  machmes,  or  12.7  per 
cent,  were  in  operation  25  to  30  years  and  over. 

The  following  table  shows  the  productive  efficiency  of  the  machmes 
and  operatives,  the  labor  cost  per  pound  and  per  100  pounds,  and  the 
average  wage  rate,  by  establishments: 


BEPOKT   OF  TABIFF  BOAED   dS"   SCHEDULE  K. 


1041 


Table  69. — Productive  effidency  of  machine  and  operative,  labor  cost  per  pound  and  per 

100  pounds t  and  average  wage  ratej  by  establishments. 


Production. 

Labor  cost  per  pound  (not  including 
repairs  labor). 

Average  wage  rate 
per  hour. 

Aver- 
age 
run 

made 
ia 

Aver- 

Estab- 
lish- 
ment. 

Per 
spin- 
dle 
per 
hour. 

Per  one-man 
bour. 

Pro- 
duc- 
tive. 

Nonproduc- 
tive. 

Total  cost. 

Ma- 

rhinA 

Non- 
ma- 

Sui>er- 

age 
num- 
ber 
of 
spin- 
dles 

mill. 

Ma- 
chine 
oi>€ra- 
tives. 

AU 
opera- 
tives. 

Ma- 
chine 
opera- 
lives. 

Non- 
ma- 
chine 
opera- 
tives. 

Super- 
viso- 
ry.! 

Per 
pound. 

Per 

100 

pounds. 

opera- 
tives. 

chine 
opera- 
tives. 

visory 
labor.i 

per 

oijera- 

tive. 

Lbs. 

Lbs.      Us. 

No.  1... 

1.29 

0. 0781 

23.5350 

14  9001 

10.0077 

80.0034;$0.0009 

$a0120 

$1.20 

$ai822 

8ai540 

$0. 3725 

185 

No.  2... 

1.47 

.0709 

27.8340 

18. 1334 

,0078 

.0025 

.0015 

.0118 

1.18 

.2174J 

.1715 

.3258 

255 

No.  3... 

1.57 

.0614123.3527 

15. 3154 

.0097 

.0027 

.0007 

.0131 

1.31 

.2272 

.1312 

.3621 

262 

No.  4... 

2.02 

.0637 

20.5861 

15.8085 

.0093 

.0015 

.0015 

.0123 

1.23 

.1923 

.1552 

.2845 

267 

No.  6... 

2.24 

.0603 

20.  5172 

12.4607 

.0079 

.0021 

.0028 

.0128 

1.28 

.1619 

.1125 

.2250 

247 

No.  6... 

2.27 

.0584 

24  8741 

16.7509 

.0098 

.0034 

.0007 

.0139 

1.39 

.2448 

.1878 

.4267 

299 

No.  7... 

2.32 

.0514 

20.  &879 

14  4060 

.0091 

.0020 

.0016 

.0127 

1.27 

.1910 

.1363 

.2379 

315 

No.  8... 

2.36 

.0570 

22. 3174 

12. 4270 

.0111 

.0048 

.0018 

.0177 

1.77 

.2468 

.1612 

.3075 

230 

No.  9... 

2.38 

.0458 

15.6319 

11.0184 

.0131 

.0022 

.0050 

.0203 

2.03 

.2048 

.1814 

.3373 

284 

No.  10.. 

2.74 

.0518 

14. 1169 

9.2275 

.0131 

.0039 

.0028 

.0198 

1.98 

.1854 

.1452 

.2586 

197 

No.  11.. 

2.90 

.0500 

21.  4320 

11. 8715 

.0089 

.0028 

.0034 

.0151 

1.51 

.1896 

.1187 

.2425 

273 

No.  12.. 

3.25 

.0411 

13.9696  10.7459 

.0161 

.0022 

.0021 

.0204 

2.04 

.2256 

.1518 

.2946 

283 

No.  13.. 

3.40 

.0405 

15.734010.0495 

.0147 

.0031 

.0033 

.0211 

2.11 

.2308 

.1296 

.2746 

285 

No.  14.. 

3.43 

.0416 

141600 

9.4298 

.0129 

.0028 

.0028 

.0185 

1.85 

.1829 

.1052 

.3103 

255 

No.  15.. 

3.46 

.0407 

15. 2261 11. 29161 

.0159 

.0019 

.0025 

.0203 

2.03 

.2418 

.1401 

.2723 

308 

No.  16.. 

3.50 

.0299 

13.7090 

9.8222 

.0142 

.0019 

.0033 

.0194 

1.94 

.1946 

.1313 

.2313 

361 

No.  17.. 

3.50 

.0472 

14  8124 

11.3401 

.0118 

.0011 

.0044 

.0173 

1.73 

.1752 

.1000 

.3168 

290 

No.  18. . 

3.70 

.0272 

13. 0547 

7.7030 

.0133 

.0033 

.0054 

.0220 

2.20 

.1736 

.0955 

.2888 

321 

No.  19.. 

3.74 

.0212 

5. 3204 

4 .3821 

.0252 

.0043 

.0052 

.0347 

3.47 

.1344 

.1788 

.3173 

206 

No.  20- . 

3.84 

.0366 

13.4380 

9. 1552 

.0128 

.0036 

.0033 

.0197 

1.97 

.1722 

.1486 

.3196 

253 

No.  21.. 

4.00 

.0463 

a  4774 

7.6664 

.0137 

.0012 

.0011 

.0160 

1.60 

.  1164 

.1238 

.4053 

168 

No.  22.. 

3.90 

.0287 

20.  CiCW 

11.8057 

.0a84 

.0021 

.0036 

.0141 

1.41 

.1723 

.0875 

.3000 

480 

No.  23.. 

4.07 

.0323 

12. 6169 

7.9591 

.0111 

.0032 

.0033 

.0176 

1.76 

.1395 

.0977 

.2396 

267 

No.  24.. 

4.49 

.0308 

10. 05.^8 

6. 9521 

.0162 

.0021 

.0081 

.0264 

2.64 

.1629 

.1422 

.2741 

294 

No.  25.. 

4.72 

.039514.59071 

10. 8903 

.0184 

.0023 

.0031 

.0238 

2.38 

.2690 

.1658 

.3232 

320 

No.  26.. 

4.82 

.0284 

8. 1774 

5. 1690 

.0242 

.0080 

.0039 

.0361 

3.61 

.1982 

.1476 

.2250 

20» 

I  Supervisory  labor  includes  overseers,  second  hands,  third  hands,  and  section  hands. 

The  table  shows  that  the  production  per  spindle  was  lowest  for 
establishment  No.  19,  being  2.12  pounds  per  spindle  per  100  hours 
and  highest  for  establisment  No.  1,  being  7.81  pounds  per  spindle  per 
100  hours.  The  average  number  of  yarn  in  establishment  No.  19  was 
3.74  runs  and  in  establishment  No.  1,  1.29  runs. 

The  production  of  machine  operatives  was  lowest  for  establishment 
No.  19,  being  5.32  pounds  per  one-man  hour,  and  highest  in  establish- 
ment No.  2,  being  27.83  pounds  per  one-man  hour. 

The  total  labor  cost  was  lowest  tor  establishment  No.  2,  being  $1.18 
per  100  pounds,  and  highest  for  establishment  No.  26,  being  $3.61  per 
100  pounds. 

The  average  wage  rate  was  lowest  in  establishment  No.  21  for 
machine  operatives,  being  11.64  cents  per  hour,  and  highest  in  estab- 
lishment No.  25,  being  26.90  cents  per  hour. 

It  will  be  noted  that  in  17  of  the  26  establishments  shown  in  the 
above  table  the  total  labor  cost  per  100  pounds  was  less  than  $2  and 
that  in  onlv  two  establishments  (Nos.  19  and  26)  did  the  total  labor 
cost  exceed  $3  per  100  pounds. 

In  making  comparisons  of  data  in  the  above  table,  account  must 
be  taken  of  the  differences  in  size  of  yarn  (expressed  in  terms  of  runs — 
1  run  being  1,600  yards  in  1  pound  and  2  runs  being  3,200  yards  in  1 


1042 


BEPOBT  OP  TABIFF  BOABD  OH  SCHEI>ULE  K. 


pound  and  so  on)  and  the  average  number  of  twists  per  inch  of  yam, 
lOT  tlie„higher  the  runs  the  finer  the  yam  and  as  a  consequence 
the  smaller  the  production  in  pounds. 

THE   RELATIVE   EFFICIENCY   OF  FOREIGN  AND  DOMESTIC   MACHINEET 

The  following  tables  summarizes  the  machines  from  wool  scouring 
to  weaving,  inclusive,  in  use  in  establishments,  giving  the  numbers 
manufactured  in  the  United  States  and  foreign  countries,  together 
with  the  nxmiber  of  years  they  have  been  in  operation: 

Table  70.— Looms  in  use  in  wookn  and  worsted  mills  in  the  United  States. 


. 

Total  looms. 

Looms  manulactured  in- 

Years  in  operatioa. 

Nnm- 

Percent 
dlstri- 
button. 

United  States. 

England. 

Oennany. 

Num- 
ber. 

Percent 
dlstrl- 
butioQ. 

Num- 
ber. 

Percent 
distri- 
bution. 

Num- 
ber. 

Percent 
distri- 
bution. 

All  machines 

12,337 

100.0 

9,517 

100.0 

2,713 

100.0 

107 

100.0 

Less  than  5  years 

4,125 
1,244 
2,009 
2,072 
2,053 
396 
438 

33.4 
10.0 
16.3 
16.8 
16.7 
3.2 
3.6 

3,751 

697 

1,426 

1,090 

1,937 

388 

228 

39.4 

7.3 

15.0 

11.5 

20.3 

4.1 

2.4 

374 
440 

583 
082 
116 
8 
210 

13.8 
16.2 
21.5 
36.2 

4.3 
.3 

7.7 

5  years  but  less  than  10  years 

10  years  but  less  than  15  years 

107 

100.0 

16  years  but  less  than  20  years 

20  years  but  less  than  25  years 

25  years  but  less  than  30  years 

30  years  and  over 

AMERICA]^  AND  FOREIGN   MACHINERY. 

Table  7l.--Number  and  per  cent  of  the  principal  tmolen  and  worsted  mill  machines  used 
m  the  industry  o/mUive  and  foreign  manufacture,  with  number  of  years  in  operation. 


Nam©  of  machines. 


Scouring  machines. . 

Carding  machines, 
woolen 

Carding  machines, 
worsted 

Gill  boxes,  English 
(Bradford)  comb- 
ing  

Gill  boxes.  French 
combing. 

Noble  combs 

French  combs 

English  (Biadford) 
drawing  frames. . . 

French  drawing 
frames 

Spinning  frames 

Mtiki,  carded  wool. 

M nto,  worsted . . . 

Total 

Weaving  looms 


m  P*^  j'  manufacture  not  reported  for  14  machines. 

«  including  18  GiU  boxes,  place  and  date  of  manufacture  not  reported. 

a  Includmg  80  drawmg  frames,  place  and  date  of  manufacture  not  reported. 


KEPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD   ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


1043 


The  table  shows  that  in  the  establishments  investigated  there  were 
7,990  scouring,  carding,  combing,  drawing,  and  spinning  machines 
anJ  12,337  looms. 

Of  the  7,990  machines  which  manipulate  the  wool  fiber  from  its 
condition  in  the  grease  until  it  is  a  finished  thread  ready  for  weaving, 
6,221  machines,  or  78  per  cent,  are  of  foreign  manufacture,  while  1,751, 
or  22  per  cent,  are  of  American  manufacture. 

Excluding  carded  wool  cards  and  carded  wool  mules,  the  per  cent  of 
machinery  m  use  manufactured  in  foreign  countries  is  87.8  per  cent. 
The  explanation  of  the  great  use  of  forei^  machinery  in  the  mills  (in 
some  departments  its  exclusive  use)  given  by  the  establishments 
visited  was  that  while  the  importation  of  these  machines  increased 
their  cost  more  than  60  per  cent  above  that  of  their  foreign  com- 
petitors in  the  woolen  and  worsted  industry,  it  was  necessary  to  buy 
abroad,  since  with  the  exception  of  looms  and  some  few  other  machines 
American  manufacturers  liad  not  been  able  to  furnish  machines 
approaching  in  results  the  work  done  by  the  foreign  machines. 

Each  of  these  machines,  excepting  the  looms,  is  of  large  size  and 
requires  considerable  floor  space  and  substantial  foundation.  In 
addition  to  the  above,  there  are  a  number  of  others  of  lesser  impor- 
tance in  the  above  departments,  together  with  the  very  important 
machines  used  in  the  dyeing  and  fimshing  departments,  necessarily 
excluded  in  the  study  of  machine  and  operative  efficiency  through 
lack  of  definite  quantities  of  production. 

A  study  of  the  above  table  and  the  tables  showing  country  of  birth 
of  employees  and  their  occupations  show  that  the  woolen  and  worsted 
industry  in  the  United  States  is  largely  dependent  upon  machines  of 
foreign  manufacture  and  upon  foreign-born  labor  for  their  operation. 

Talble  71  shows  the  number  of  years  the  machines  have  been  in 
operation  in  the  mills.  From  this  it  appears  that  1,977  machines,  or 
25.1  per  cent,  have  been  in  operation  less  than  5  years;  3,045  machines, 
or  38.7  per  cent,  5  years  and  over,  but  less  than  15  years;  1,696  ma- 
chines, or  21.5  per  cent,  15  years  and  over,  but  less  than  25  years; 
and  1,160  machines,  or  14.7  per  cent,  were  in  operation  25  to  30  years 
and  over. 

Table  71  further  shows  that  1,160,  or  14.7  per  cent,  of  the  machines 
in  the  various  departments  have  been  in  use  from  25  to  30  years  and 
over  and  other  large  groups  for  a  lesser  number  of  years.  As  a  rule 
the  working  parts  of  the  macliines  are  separable. 

Table  70  also  shows  that  of  the  12,337  looms  in  operation  in  the 
mills  investigated,  9,517,  or  77.1  per  cent,  were  manufactured  in  the 
United  States  and  2,820  were  made  in  foreign  countries;  2,713  of  the 
latter  were  made  in  England  and  107  in  Germany. 

Four  thousand  one  hundred  and  twenty-five  looms,  or  33.4  per 
cent,  had  been  in  operation  less  than  5  years;  1,244,  or  10  per  cent, 
5  years  and  over  but  less  than  10  years;  2,009,  or  16.3  per  cent,  10 
years  and  over  but  less  than  15  years,  while  4,125  looms,  or  33.5  per 
cent,  have  been  in  operation  15  years  and  over  but  less  than  25 
years.  Eight  hundred  and  thirty-four  looms,  or  6.8  per  cent,  have 
been  in  use  from  25  to  30  years  and  over. 

To  maintain  the  machines  in  efficient  condition,  new  parts  are  kept 
in  stock  in  the  establishments  and  the  worn  parts  are  renewed  when 
needed.  Each  mill  has  its  mechanical  department  and  in  the  mills 
investigated  a  total  force  of  1,039  machinists,  blacksmiths,  etc.,  were 
employed  to  keep  the  machinery  in  good  working  condition;  36.8  per 


1044 


EEPOKT  OF  TABIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDUMl  K. 


^^r.^L*^  mechanical  force  earned  from  25  to  30  cents  an  hour  and 
over;  ,68,  or  73.9  per  cent,  earned  from  20  to  30  cents  an  hm,r  u^A 
over;  while  271,  or  21.1  per  ce.t,  earned  loss  than  20  cents  an  honr 

mills,  companng  their  relative  merits  made  the  following  statement 

v^'bLt^s'a"w'';?r^rol%To^fdtt!r,'^'  T  ""^  «l^e»  '"»'^-  ^or  the 
TJnitPd  St^fA^    suii!!  t   P'^^S    1®  ?^1  <^ould  not  u^e  the  looms  which  we  boueht  in  thn 

looms.  The  other  Ent^lish  h^nm^  €.1,^1*11  a  •'  ^^'}^^P^Po^,  than  the  American 
ofle^  difficX^s^S  wrpVoduc^fn  W^^  are  used  for  the  weaving 

aU  adapted  for  flie  very  fine  eZ^^  vZ  fLo^  <iuantilics  These  looms  are  not  at 
absolutely  unraipli^for  SSiv  IZ^^^f^  f""'  "^^  '^""^^  l"""^'  ^''i<'h  ^ 
thought  Jf  bu>.TEniu*X!^^tra?e"fWAS^^^^^^^ 

&r.h- S£F^  ra^'<^»i4"^s,Tt:l^rthr^^ 

The  epeed  of  the  American  and  English  looms  is  hiVfiAi.  fli««  fi,«*  ^*  *u    /^ 
looms,  but  the  work  which  ia  don^  nn  fhlV^^    i  '"8^'*^'  ™^  "i^*  oi  t^^e  German 
nesa  more  than  epeed  and  JLi^^^f  aniS^  looms  requures  accuracy  and  fine- 

Another  manufactm-er  discussing  looms  and  machinerv  and  oua  nf 

^^r'^fP?'.?^"^  'S'  *^«  inc>-easing  use  ofTS^ms   and  to 
some  extent  the  use  of  automntip  Inr^rna  r.«  «^*i        ^^ums,  ana  lo 

made  the  followi,^  statementr  °  cotton-warp  worsteds, 

p?t3\"e^i'::XutHrer,2L*prHi^£^^^^^  ^?'^''  ."^^v^arrcS 

It  is  better  to  let  Uie  loom  RoTh^  ^^etZZTIZ^^  irregulari,  ee  in  your  cloth. 

that  have  been  throwTo"  tWe  wo^lJd  mnf,^n  .V»  ^^^^f  *^-    ^^"^  "'  *^« '«"»» 

There  has  been  quite  a  c We  S  ^^w  Cm^t'^^-lnP  ^^  were  good  looms. 

by  UdiS'^IYJugh't'iLde^^'fhf dt'j ^"ds'iohhl"?'  T''J  "^^  •''f«'«'  ^°™ 
and  a  ha«  years  Igo  were  vm-  mu!h^Zlhf!,^^!^,l''*^,^  **!''°i;"  V»"«y  *^° 
trade,  and  fliey  were  aiTanoin7fo?Vh»  IJ^irK  "^  o™f  their  loss  in  the  dress-goods 
ent  centers  alo^nj  tTe^SS^  Vallev  ^t  Mt™hili°^.'''r"l^'^"8  Bchoob  at  Sffer- 
free  of  charge,  ^e  only  cSion  beVn^th  JT  rt.o,f  i^  *?  'T**  \^"?"  ^  dressmake 

They  clain.1d"it  was  v^r^  difficult  to  ha^vfdreSS^r^'de  and"i?  tK'T""  ^""^y- 
people  along  the  district  thev  mii?ht  RtimnWrlt^^  '  .  ","'«>  "ad  some  smart 
Smply  a  temporar/stemS  Sihe  t  He  T^i^  dress-goods  business.  But  it  waa 
and  for  this  reason-  ThHJ^n  in  /I,I.^;„P°  made-up  garment  has  come  to  stay, 
maker.ianotirruch  Witra^stvTe,  Now  Z'f  *''"''^  t"  ""^y  be  a  good  dre^! 
tied  up  to  a  country  d^nukorfclb  a^med  IhrT.'"-.*  T'^TX  who  has  been 
nice  st»lee-«he  knows  ehT^a  counSTwoman  B?.t  X'f*^  ^^^^S'^^  "'"'  ^<^  ^^^ 
In3teadoIhavin2herdre«madoi,Vrri!?K,T  "?  1, 1*"' ™at  she  does  now  is  this: 
is  then  asBood  M  the  b^rf?hn^  '^.s  ^"^'  "  "■^"^  *"  "  '»  "^e  city,  and  her  suit 
be  madeuV^The  avSa  w^mfn"  i,  ff^MT""?  ^"^  P?"'  '".^Ses  of  how  material  can 
or  black-  but  whon  J,?!^^^    ^  afraid  (o  get  away  from  her  brown,  or  navv  blue 

54?^L'd'?^*i^"h'^TwMct  ha.^f  L'^Tr  ^T*^  "^  made-to-order  suits  use  50. 
milem  methwf  rf  mZ^  Jntta  hL  LT''*  '"lK'^''  ^/'^'' '°°'™-  »»  'hat  is  why  thii 
looms,  boca««rthe  count^f  Zuir^^l^o^^^  \^°  '^"'  *«  "««  "«  the  fcroad 

looms  on  Jacquard  that  woS3  wS™  ^^S^"'  ;,^r°''^  J*^^°  ^«  *'»'>  » thousand 
lutely  gone.  The  cloth  that  is  mnt^nwf  }^  ^^"j  ^^^  <'«'°»"<1  has  abso- 
inches  i;ide.  and  the^tt^r^A^lirUk^  ^/uX fcaSes'.^  ^"'°  ^^  '<'  « 


EEPOET  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


1045 


THE   EFFICIENCY  OF   AMERICAN   WEAVERS. 

In  American  worsted  and  woolen  mills  the  weavers,  male  and 
female,  operate  one  or  two  looms  as  a  rule,  excepting  where  worsted 
dress  goods  are  made  with  cotton  warps.  Cotton  warp  being  stronger 
than  woolen  or  worsted  makes  it  possible  to  use  automatic,  or  "weft 
replenisliing"  looms,  so  that  one  weaver  can  operate  as  many  as  12 
looms  in  the  manufacture  of  worsted  dress  goods. 

Weavers  in  the  United  States  are  pieceworkers.     They  are  paid 
for  tlie  yardage  they  produce.     Usually  the  piece  price  per  yard  is^ 
fixed  by  a  scale,  based  upon  the  number  of  picks  per  inch  in  the  fabric 
woven,  the  speed  of  the  loom,  the  number  of  looms  operated  by  tlie^ 
weaver,  the  quality  of  warp  and  weft,  the  number  of  shuttles  and 
harness    also    being    factors    in    regulating    the    price.     While    the- 
weavers  in  most  mills  are  paid  each  week  the  amount  credited  to 
them  for  the  work  of  the  previous  week,  they  are  not  paid  for  the- 
actual  yardage  they  produced  during  the  hours  they  worked  in  that 
week.     The  yardage  woven  is  taken  off  the  loom  at  intervals  during 
the  week  in  "cuts''  or  "pieces"  of  varying  lengths  of  from  50  to  65 
yards,  though  often  less.     Tliis  yardage  is  weighed  and  measured  by 
the  "percher"  and  examined.     The  weaver  is  paid  for  this  measured 
vardage.     The  ^^ards  woven  on  Friday  or  Saturday  and  still  in  the- 
loom  Monday  morning  when  weaving  is  resumed  are  taken  out  of 
the  loom  on  Monday  or  Tuesday  and  credited  to  the  current  week's^ 
work.     For  these  reasons  the  exact  production  of  the  weaver  in  the* 
actual  number  of  hours  worked,  with  ths  earnings  at  the  piece  price 
per  vard,  are  not  known  by  the  mill  officials,  nor  by  the  weaver. 

The  method  generally  used  as  a  basis  for  the  presentation  of  the^ 
earnings  of  weavers  is  to  copy  the  amounts  credited  to  each  weaver 
for  two  or  more  weeks.  An  hourly  rate  of  pay  is  ascertained  by 
dividing  the  amounts  credited  by  the  number  of  hours  the  weaver 
was  in  the  mill.  As  the  weaver's  productive  capacity  and  earnings 
cease  when  the  loom  stops,  the  earnings  thus  ascertained  can  not 
take  into  account  the  idle  time  of  the  weaver  waiting  for  new  warp- 
to  be  put  in  (an  operation  generally  requiring  several  hours)  or  waits 
for  filling,  or  fixer  s  time  for  repairs  if  the  loom  breaks  down. 

If  a  weaver  actually  works  50  hours  and  is  idle  from  any  one  or 
more  of  the  above  causes  for  a  total  of  10  hours  in  a  week  of  60  hours, 
the  hourly  rate  of  pay  derived  from  the  earnings  credited  will  be  on 
the  basis  of  his  working  and  idle  or  nonproducing  time  in  the  mill 
combined.  The  idle  time  from  the  causes  above  mentioned  is  no 
fault  of  the  weaver.  If  the  weaver  has  to  wait  for  filling,  this  loss  of 
time  must  be  charged  to  lack  of  efficienc}^  on  the  part  of  the  estab- 
lishment. 

If  the  loom  can  not  weave  the  fabric  properly  and  the  weaver  has  - 
to  stop  the  loom  and  the  loom  fixer's  services  are  required,  this  idle 
time  of  the  weaver  must  also  be  charged  to  the  inefficiency  of  the 
estabhshment. 

The  putting  in  of  new  warps  causes  the  greatest  loss  of  time  to  the 
weaver,  for  which  he  is  no  wise  responsible.  To  what  extent  estab- 
lishments are  responsible  it  is  difficult  to  say,  but  certain  it  is  that  they 
have  not  overcome  the  delay  nor  has  any  Invention  yet  been  devised 
to  prevent  it. 

Wliile  not  responsible  for  the  enforced  idleness  from  the  causes . 
named,  the  weaver  is  responsible  for  his  failure  to  get  the  maximum 

32080"— H.  Doc.  342,  62-2,  vol  2 28 


1046 


EKPOBT  OF  TAKIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDUU!  K. 


LTw  fh^i'mi'^f^  tr  t?^"^^**  ^'^  T'^^?  *"  Sood  working  order  after 
Sount  '"""''  '^  "^'^  ^^'^  °*''*'^  ^*^*<*'«  into 

In  ortler  to  ascertain  to  what  extent  the  weavers  in  American 
woolm  and  worsted  niilb  wore  efficient  and  capable  in  tlie  pro^fu  ° 
tion  of  fabncs  which  enteml  into  competition  with  similar  fabric 
made  by  weavers  in  com!)etitivo  countries,  the  TariiT  Board  undertook 
a  searcW  mvostigaUon  of  tha  subject,  ignoring  the  av™^ 
ductive  m,U  efficiency  of  all  of  the  weaveiS^  wliic!.  mean!  but  liuK' 
an<l  gouig  <hr^tly  to  the  loot  of  the  question  by  asc^rtai^  exac^^^^^^ 
what  each  and  everv  individual  weaver  was  produXg^S^S 
the  time  of  lus  productive  movements.  u  jiieaauiing 

.  ^,''J^}^  '*  ^f?  necessary  that  the  exact  number  of  yards  woven 
and  the  time  used  m  the  weaving  be  obtained.     The  miU  recorrdld 

^h'mfuTor'::?!'::  T"'"°-  These  imixjrtant  data  we^'^JitS 
each  miU  for  aU  of  the  weavera  employe<l,  excepting  tliose  encr«cred 
on  pattern  weavmg,  learnew,  and  such  others  as  were  not  en^r^^e,?  i^ 
S^fo'l^wsT  P""^""*'""  "^  *^«  ^tabUshment.     The  methj^ed  wm 

When  the  mill  shut  down  on  Saturday  afternoon  the  oveiseer  of 
the  weaving  departaient  or  other  competent  pereon  actingTcXe^ 

^ro^the  do^ln  Lloom  Ih^e  ^tttkrhad^'''^  ^^^^  •  ^* 

SLf.mL"'.^^?^?^  recorcfb^an  on  Mondly  momt^,^riirwelvf; 
resumed  production.  The  record  of  time  worked  was  kept  durinc  a 
penod  of  contmuous  weavmg,  generally  from  four  to  six  dlys  and  for 
some  mjlls  a  longer  period,  and  at  the  close  of  work  on  the  l^t  dav 
the  doth  m  the  loom  was  again  marked  with  a  colored  chSk  linf 
Tte  percher  or  measurer  was  enabled  by  the  marking  of  the  cloth  to 
re^rd  the  exact  yardage  woven  in  the  ^od.      ^  ^ 

pose  of  il^rtai'^L'^'CT  *'^  \V^^t^'^}  record,  and  also  for  the  pur- 
^^thi  3h^^.„^  cliaracter  and  quality  of  the  material  used 
wid  the  conditions  under  which  the  fabric  was  produced  a  car<l  wm 
attached  to  each  loom,  upon  which  the  followin^^ata  were  entei^ 

1.  Pay-roll  number  of  weaver. 

2.  Loom  number. 

3.  Number  of  looma  run  by  weaver 

4.  Sex  of  weaver.    Male  or  female. ' 
o.  Smjjle  or  double  beam  work. 

€.  Number  of  Bhuttlee  uaed. 

7.  Number  of  harness. 

8.  Speed  of  loom,  picks  per  minute. 

9.  dumber  of  picks  per  inch. 

J?*  ^r'^*?  ^^/^»<^*9  woven,  unfinished. 

11.  JVeight  of  ffoodfl  per  yard  (ounces). 

12.  Number  of  warp  ends. 

13.  Ply,  count  or  runs,  and  quality  of  warp 

if*  S^>  ^^"5^  ^^  ^^^'  ^^^  quality  of  fiilini. 

15.  Style  and  piece  number/  ^ 

16.  Trade  name  of  goods. 

17.  Hours  worked  by  weaver. 

First  day. 
Second  day. 
Thiixi  day. 
Fourth  day. 
Fifth  day. 
Sixth  day. 

18.  Total  yards  woven. 

19.  Piece  price  per  yaid  paid  lo  weaver. 


BEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


1047 


To  this  was  added  from  the  mill  records  facts  as  to  where  the 
looms  were  made  (whether  of  American  or  foreign  manufacture), 
with  year  of  make,  and  style. 

It  will  be  seen  that  every  factor  entering  into  the  manufacture  of 
the  cloth  was  included  in  the  data  obtained  by  the  board.  It  should 
be  borne  in  mind  that  the  weaving  time  only  of  the  weaver  when 
engaged  in  the  production  of  the  cloth  was  included  in  the  record. 
The  idle  time  of  the  weaver  when  not  working  on  loom  production, 
such  as  waiting  for  new  warp,  for  filling,  or  for  breakdown  of  the 
loom,  was  rigorously  excluded. 

If  the  warp  in  the  loom  should  be  woven  out  at  any  time  during 
the  period  in  which  the  record  was  bein^  kept,  the  record  for  that 
loom  was  brought  to  an  end  and  the  time  it  ended  was  noted,  together 
with  the  yardage  produced.  If  any  doubt  existed  as  to  its  accuracy, 
the  loom  record  was  stricken  out.  In  this  way  an  accurate  basis  was 
secured  for  determining  the  efficiency  or  inefficiency  of  each  weaver. 

It  will  be  noted  that  the  card  attached  to  each  loom  called  for  the 
exact  speed  of  the  loom,  expressed  in  picks  per  minute,  and  also  the 
number  of  picks  per  inch.  A  pick  is  ''  a  smgle  strand  of  weft  reaching 
once  across  a  piece ' '  of  cloth.  The  bobbin  within  the  shuttle  which 
is  propelled  across  the  cloth  contains  several  hundred  yards  of  weft  or 
filling  yarn.  The  loom  is  so  adjusted  that  it  will  propel  the  shuttle 
a  certain  number  of  times  automatically,  per  minute,  weaving  a  single 
pick  or  strand  each  time.  ° 

The  loom  is  also  adjusted  so  that  it  will  weave  a  certain  number 
of  picks  or  strands  automatically  in  every  inch  of  cloth  woven. 

When  the  bobbin  in  the  shuttle  is  empty  the  loom  has  to  be  stopped 
and  a  full  bobbin  inserted  in  place  of  the  empty  one.  An  efficient  weaver 
watcliing  the  loom  closely  will  have  a  full  bobbm  in  hand  ready  to 
insert  when  the  last  pick  is  tlirown  across  from  the  empty  one  and  will 
stop  the  loom  but  a  few  moments  of  tune,  to  quickly  make  the 
excliange. 

In  exceptional  cases  there  are  weavers  who  make  the  exchange  of 
empty  and  full  bobbms  without  stoppmg  the  loom,  but  such  instances 
are  rare  and  the  operation  is  dangerous,  as  it  may  result  in  serious 
accident  to  loom,  material,  and  weaver.  Such  weavers,  however, 
obtain  the  maximum  production  of  the  loom,  or  nearly  100  per  cent! 

The  weaver  has  to  stop  the  loom  to  tie  broken  warp  ends  of  yam. 
Imperfections  in  carding  and  spinning  often  make  lumps  in  the  warp 
yarn,  which  in  most  cases  break  in  weaving  and  have  to  be  tied. 

Worsted  weavers  in  general  have  fewer  stops  than  woolen  weavers 
owing  to  finer  yarn.    In  one  establishment  manufacturing  worsted  dress 
goods  and  using  cotton  warp  a  record  was  kept  which  showed  that  in 
several  instances  looms  were  nm  continuously  for  10  hours  without 
a  single  break  of  warp  ends  or  stoppage  of  the  looms  on  that  account. 

Stops  to  change  bobbins  and  to  tie  broken  warp  ends  are  the  prin- 
cipal causes  preventin^continuous  operation  and  production  of  looms. 

For  11,080  looms  individual  records  of  weavers'  efficiency  were  se- 
cured, of  which  the  following  is  an  example  from  one  of  the  records: 

203  yards  of  cloth  woven  in  90  hours  and  30  minutes  (weaver's  actual  working 
time  on  loom).  ^ 

105  picks  per  minute  (speed  of  loom). 
65  picks  per  inch. 


1048 


EEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOAED  ON  SCHEDULE  K, 


From  this  data  the  following  is  derived: 


Actual  limp  ^ZT^^.  '"^  motion  and  producing,  75  hours  24  minutea. 

Actual  time  lost  in  stoppages,  15  hours  6  minutea. 

rer  cent  of  total  time  loom  was  producing,  83.3. 

rer  cent  of  total  time  lost  in  stoppages,  16  7 

Yards  woven  per  hour  of  total  working  time  of  weaver,  2.24. 

Yards  woven  per  hour  of  actual  producing  time.  2.69. 

folSwsr^^^''*^  ""^  '^^^'''''^  *^'^  productive  and  stoppage  time  is  as 

66  picks  per  inch. 
36  inches  per  yard. 


2, 340  picks  per  yard. 
203  yards. 


Picks  per  minute,  105)475, 020  picks  in  203  yards. 

4, 524  minutes,  or  75  hours  and  24  minutea 
90  hours  and  30  minutes,  total  time  of  weaver. 
75  ftours  and  24  minutes,  actual  loom  time. 
15  hours  and  6  minutes,  time  lost. 

WoAhe  movfimpntnf''/  *5^«  l»°F^'?'»de  it  possible  to  record  the 
Tt»  f„ii  r^    Tl"}*  ^/  *  ^"^/^  P'<'^  between  stoppages, 
ibe  toUowing  table  for  woolen  and  worsted  goods  establishmpntQ 

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REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDITLE  K. 


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REPORT  OF   TARIFF  BOARD   OIT   SCHEDULE   K. 


1051 


In  the  data  shown  in  the  above  table  for  21  woolen  and  22  worsted 
goods  establishments  is  included  the  weaving  of  1,912,681  yards  of 
cloth  by  4,574  weavers  on  11,080  looms,  or  an  average  of  172.6  yards 
per  loom  and  418  yards  per  weaver.  In  the  total  looms  9,329  were 
used  for  weaving  worsted  and  1,751  for  weaving  woolen  fabrics. 

The  method  used  in  the  above  table  of  computing  the  percentage 
of  productive  efficiency  of  each  w^eaver  and  loom  and  of  all  weavers  and 
of  all  looms  in  each  establishment  puts  all  mills  on  a  comparable  basis, 
despite  the  fact  that  some  mills  had  faster  looms  than  others  or  were 
weaving  fabrics  having  fewer  picks  per  inch  than  the  fabrics  of  other 
mills.  In  the  upper  portion  of  the  table  the  data  are  presented  for 
woolen  mills  and  in  tne  lower  for  worsted  mills. 

The  table  shows  that  the  average  efficiency  of  worsted  mills  is 
higher  than  that  of  woolen  mills.  This  is  largely  owing  to  the  fact 
that  worsted  goods  in  general  are  woven  with  stronger  warp  and 
stronger  and  finer  filling  yams,  with  a  greater  quantity  or  weft 
wound  on  the  bobbins,  and  worsted  looms  for  these  reasons  need  not 
be  stopped  so  often  as  woolen  looms  in  the  process  of  weaving. 

For  worsted  looms  an  average  efficiency  of  at  least  80  per  cent  is 
sought  by  many  manufacturers  and  for  woolen  looms  at  least  70  per 
cent. 

These  percentages  represent  high  standards  of  weave-room  effi- 
ciency, wliich  require  in  addition  to  skilled  weavers  and  good  loom 
equipment  careful  management  of  the  work  and  care  in  making  the 
yarn  of  good  quality  and  preparing  it  for  the  loom.  But  the  prin- 
cipal factor  is  the  weaver.  If  the  weavers  are  skillful  and  attentive 
to  their  work  they  can  under  normal  conditions  keep  their  looms  in 
operation  at  least  80  per  cent  of  the  time  they  are  weaving  worsted 
cloths  and  at  least  70  per  cent  of  the  time  they  are  weaving  woolens. 

The  extent,  therefore,  to  which  the  average  percentage  of  a  mill 
falls  below  80  on  worsted  and  70  on  woolens,  is  the  measure  of  its 
efficiency.  The  fact  that  some  worsted  mills  and  woolen  mills 
attained  these  standards  proves  that  they  are  not  too  high. 

The  weave  room  has  been  called  the  *' heart  of  the  miff,"  and  effi- 
ciency in  weaving  is  therefore  a  good  index  of  the  efficiency  of  a  mill 
as  a  whole.  This  is  borne  out  by  the  fact  that  in  practically  every 
case  the  mills  having  a  high  average  of  weaving  efticiency  were  effi- 
cient also  in  the  scouring,  carding,  combing,  drawing,  and  spinning 
departments,  the  low  labor  cost  per  pound  attesting  their  efficiency 
in  those  branches.  The  table  shows  that  the  highest  average  efficiency 
of  any  of  the  worsted  mills  was  87.66  per  cent.  Three  other  mills  had 
an  average  efficiency  of  over  80  per  cent,  seven  were  in  the  groups  of 
70  but  less  than  80  per  cent,  tliree  being  over  75  per  cent.  Nine  were 
in  the  group  of  60  but  less  than  70  per  cent.  One  was  59.01  per  cent, 
while  the  lowest  was  52.28  per  cent. 

In  the  establishment  having  an  average  of  87.66  per  cent,  a  pro- 
ductive efficiency  of  90  per  cent  or  over  was  obtamed  on  42.86  per 
cent  of  its  total  looms,  while  only  2.38  per  cent  of  the  looms  fell  befow 
65  per  cent. 

in  the  worsted  mill  havmg  but  52.28  per  cent  average  efficiency, 
over  57  per  cent  of  its  looms  f eU  below  50  per  cent  efficiency.  Tliat 
the  percentage  of  efficiency  does  not  vary  with  the  average  speed  of 
the  looms  is  well  illustrated  by  the  fact  that  the  worsted  mill  showing 
the  liighest  efficiency  operated  its  looms  at  an  average  speed  of  only 


1052 


BEPORT  OF   TARIFF  BOARD  ON    SCHEDULE   K. 


92.38  picks  p0F  minute,  wliicli  is  rather  low  for  worsted  looms. 
This  statement  miglit  be  interpreted  as  indicating  that  better  results 
could  be  secured  by  slow  looms,  were  it  not  that  the  other  mills  which 
attained  an  efiiciency  of  over  80  per  cent  had  fast  looms,  establish- 
ment No.  4  having  an  average  speed  of  over  120  picks  per  minute.  No. 
22  average  speed  over  107  picks  per  minute,  and  No.  6,  with  a  speed 
of  over  104  picks  per  minute. 

The  table  shows  that  in  the  woolen  mills  the  highest  average 
efficiency  was  obtained  by  mill  No.  13,  with  78.80  per  cent,  or  ^:8 
per  cent  above  the  standard.  Two  others  also  obtained  averages 
above  75  per  cent.  Eight  of  the  21  woolen  mills  had  an  average 
efficiency  of  more  than  70  but  less  than  80  per  cent,  8  other  mills 
were  m  the  group  of  60  but  less  than  70  per  cent,  while  5  were  in  tlie 
lowest  group  of  50  but  less  than  60  per  cent. 

The  average  number  of  yards  woven  per  loom  per  hour  of  total 
weaving  time  of  weavers  and  of  actual  producing  time  is  shown 
m  table  72  for  each  estabhshment  and  indicates  in  another  way 
the  productive  efiiciency  of  loom  and  weaver.  The  yards  per  hour 
per  loom  of  total  weaving  time  are  based  upon  the  time  the  weaver 
was  at  work  at  the  loom,  while  the  yards  per  loom  per  hour  of 
actual  producing  time  are  based  upon  the  time  the  loom  was  actually 
in  motion. 

If  it  is  desired  to  ascertain  how  many  yards  per  hour  of  woolen 
or  worsted  goods  having  specified  average  number  of  picks  per  inch 
could  be  woven  on  looms  of  certain  speeds  (indicated  by  picks  per 
minute),  such  information  may  be  obtained  in  columns  2,  3,  4,  and  5 
of  the  above  table. 

It  should  be  remembered  that  the  most  efficient  mills  do  not 
necessarily  show  the  m-eatest  yardage  per  hour.  In  fact,  the  most 
efficient  worsted  mill  shown  in  the  above  table  produced  the  smallest 
yardage  per  hour  of  actual  producing  time— 2.32  yards.  This  is  a 
result  of  the  fact  that  this  mill  was  weaving  fabrics  with  a  large 
number  of  threads  or  picks  per  inch  on  slow  worsted  looms. 

The  following  tabular  statement  shows  for  all  estabhshments  the 
number  and  per  cent  of  woolen  and  worsted  looms  attaining  speci- 
fied grades  of  productive  efficiency: 


Grade  of  productive  efflciency. 


Total  looms 

Looms  attaining  an  efficiency  of— 

90  pc^r  cent  and  over 

80  per  cent  but  less  than  90  per  cent 
70  per  cent  but  less  than  m  per  cent 
SO  percent  but  less  than  70  jjer  cent 
30  ix;r  cent  but  less  llian  SO  per  cent 
Less  than  30  per  cent 


Worsted  looms. 


Numbfjf. 


Woolen  looms. 


Per  cent 
distribu- 
tion. 


9,329 


381 
2,291 

2,886 

3,185 

536 

50 


100.0 


Numljer. 


1, 751 


Percent 
distribu- 
tion. 


100.0 


4.1 

24.7 

30.9 

34.1 

5.7 

0.5 


36 
226 
379 
795 
296 

19 


2.0 
12.9 
21.6 
45.4 
17.0 

1.1 


The  table  shows  that,  considering  the  individual  efficiency  of  the 
weavers  apart  from  the  estabhshments  they  worked  in,  it  was  found 
that  of  a  total  of  9,329  worsted  looms,  the  weavers  operating  381 
looms,  or  4.1  per  cent,  attained  a  productive  efficiency  or  90  per  cent 


BEPORT   OF   TAEIFF   BOARD   OX   SCHEDULE   K. 


1053 


and  over.     On  2,291  looms,  or  24.7  per  cent,  they  attained  an  effi- 
ciency of  80  per  cent  but  less  than  CO. 

On  2,886  looms,  or  30.9  per  cent  of  the  total,  they  attained  an 
efficiency  of  70  per  cent  but  less  than  80. 

On  3,185  looms,  or  34.1  per  cent  of  the  total,  they  attained  an 
efficiency  of  50  per  cent  but  less  than  70. 

On  536  looms,  or  5.7  per  cent  of  the  total,  they  attained  an  effi- 
ciency of  30  per  cent  but  less  than  50. 

On  50  looms  an  efficiency  of  less  than  30  per  cent  was  attained. 

From  this  it  appears  that  on  6,657  looms,  or  71.2  per  cent  of  the 
total  worsted  looms,  the  weavers  fell  below  80  per  cent  productive 
efficiency,  the  standard  of  efficiency  the  manufacturers  seek  to  attain. 

The  standard  of  satisfactory  efficiency  in  woolen  mills  is  70  per  cent 
of  the  theoretical  100. 

In  the  woolen  mills  the  individual  efficiency  of  the  weavers  was  as 
follows: 

•  On  36  looms,  or  2  per  cent  of  the  total  number,  a  productive  effi- 
ciency of  90  per  cent  and  over  was  attained  by  the  weavers;  on  226 
looms,  or  12.9  per  cent,  an  efficiency  of  80  per  cent  but  less  than  90; 
on  379  looms,  or  21.6  per  cent,  an  efficiency  of  70  but  less  than  80 

{)er  cent;  on  795  looms,  or  45.4  per  cent,  an  efficiency  of  50  per  cent 
)ut  less  than  70;  on  296  looms,  or  17  per  cent,  an  efficiency  of  30  per 
cent  but  less  than  50. 

On  19  looms  an  efficiency  of  less  than  30  per  cent  was  attained. 
The  foregoing  shows  that  on  63.5  per  cent  of  the  woolen  looms  the 
weavers  feU  below  the  desired  standard  of  efficiency,  and  that  only 
on  36.5  per  cent  of  the  looms  was  the  standard  attained. 

In  the  following  tables  the  relative  efficiency  of  male  and  female 
weavers  is  shown,  by  establishments: 


PRODUCTIVE  EFFICIENCY  IN   WEAVING  IN  WORSTED  MILLS  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES  FOR 

MALES  AND  FEMALES. 

Table  73. — Average  efficiency,  average  speed  of  looms,  average  numher  of  picks  per  inch 
in  fabrics,  average  number  of  yards  ivoven  per  hour,  and  percentage  of  total  looms  attain- 
ing specified  grades  of  productive  efficiency,  by  establishments. 


Aver- 
age 
effi- 
ciency 
of  mill 
(per 
cent). 

Aver- 
age 
speed 

of 
looms 
(picks 
per 
min- 
ute). 

Aver- 
age 
picks 
per 
inch  in 
fabrics. 

Average  yards 

woven  per  loom 

per  hour— 

Per  cent  of  total  looms  in  each  mill  on 
which   the   weaver's  productive  effi- 
ciency was— 

Establishment  and 
sex. 

Of  total 
weav- 
ing 
time  of 
weav- 
ers. 

Of 
actual 
produc- 
ing 
time. 

90  per 

cent  or 

over. 

70  per 
cent 
but  less 
than 
90  per 
cent. 

50  per 

cent 
but  less 

than 
70  per 

cent. 

30  per 
cent 
but  less 
than 
50  per 
cent. 

Tifiss 

than 
30  per 
cent. 

Establishment  No.  1: 
Males  

64.22 
59.17 

97.57 
112.50 

63.53 
54.49 

1.57 
2.00 

2.44 
3.37 

0.56 

36.66 
11.71 

52.22 
66.95 

10.56 
20.50 

Females 

0.84 

Total 

60.92 

107. 21 

57.93 

1.85 

3.03 

0.24 

22. 43 

60.62 

16-23 

0.49 

Establishment  No.  2: 
Males 

79.67 
80.36 

126.00 
126.00 

55.42 
54.78 

3.04 
3.11 

3.82 
3.87 

4.47 
3.90 

88.53 
90.91 

7.00 
4.54 

Females 

0.65 

Total 

79.79 

126.00 

55. 30 

3.05 

3.83 



4.  .36 

88.97 

6.55 

0.12 

1054 


EEPOBT  OF   TARIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


FBODUCnVB  EFFICIENCY  W  WBAVINO  IN  WOKSTKD  MILLS  IN    THE  UNITED  STATES  FOB 

MALES  AND  FEMALES — Continued. 

Table  p.— Average  efidency,  average  speed  of  looms,  average  number  of  picJts  per  inch 
in  fabrics,  average  number  of  yards  woven  per  hour,  and  percejitage  of  total  looms  attain- 
mg  specified  grades  of  productive  effidencg,  by  eUabli&hrmnts—ilonimxxQd. 


Per  cent  of  total  looms  in  each  mill  on 
whi<;h  the  weaxir's  productive  effi- 
ciency was— 


Establishment  and 

sex. 


Establishment  No.  3: 

Males 

Females. 


Total. 


Establishment  No.  4: 

Males 

Females 


Total. 


Establishment  No.  5: 

Males I    69.52 

Females. i    66.  la 

Total 

Establishment  No.  ft: 
Males 

Establishmeot  No.  7: 

Males 76.50 


Establishment  No.  8: 

Males !    87.66 

Establishment  No.  9: 

Males 64.00 

Females 65.69 

Total. I    64.67 

Establishment  No. 

10: 

Males 74. 78 

Females 71.26 

i_ 

Total i    74.18 

Establishment  No.  ; 
11: 

Males 65.40 

Females. 66.58 

Total I    66.38 

Establishment  No. 
12* 

Males 

Females 

Total 

Sstablishment  No. 

Males 

Females.. 

Total... 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


1055 


PRODTTCnVB  EFFICIENCY  IN  WEAVING  IN  WORSTED  MILLS  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES  FOR 

MALES  AND  FEMALES — Continued. 

Table  73. — Average  efficiency,  average  speed  of  looms ,  average  number  of  picks  per  inch 
in  fabrics y  average  number  of  yards  woven  per  hour,  and  percentage  of  total  looms  attain- 
ing specified  grades  of  productive  efficiency,  by  estxibliskments — Continued. 


Aver- 

^& 
effi- 
ciency 
of  mill 

cent). 

Aver- 
age 
speed 

of 

looms 

<picks 

per 

mm- 

ute). 

Aver- 
age 
picks 
per 
inch  in 
fabrics. 

Average  yards 

woven  per  loom 

per  hour — 

Per  cent  of  total  looms  in  each  mill  on 
which  the  weaver'sproduc  live  efficiency 
was — 

Establislunent  and 
sex. 

Of  total 
weav- 
ing 
time  of 
weav- 
ers. 

Of 

actual 
produc- 
ing 
time. 

90  per 

cent  or 

over. 

70  per 

cent 

but  less 

than 

90  per 

cent. 

50  per 
cent 
but  less 
than 
70  per 
cent. 

30  per 

cent 

but  less 

than 

50  per 

cent. 

Less 

than 

30  per 

cent. 

Establishment   No. 
14: 
Males 

78.91 
82.11 

97.79 
92.50 

58.45 
5L75 

2.35 
2.44 

2.98 
2.97 

9.62 

66.67 
100.00 

23. 81 

Females 

........ 

Total 

79.50 

96.87 

57.33 

2.37 

2.98 

8.00 

72.00 

20.00 

Establishment  No. 
15: 
Males 

76.42 
76.39 

134.84 
143.75 

58.95 
65.17 

2.80 
2.78 

3.67 
3.63 

6.78 
3.74 

63.41 
70.18 

27.91 
24. 3C 

1.76 
1.60 

0.14 

0.12 

Females 

Total 

76.40 

1  141.07 

63.29 

2.78 

3.64 

4.66 

68.12 

25.45 

1.65 

0.12 

Establishment  No. 
16: 
Males 

56.60 
70.75 

124.52 
134. 49 

60.59 
63.10 

2.06 
2.67 

3.52 
3.77 

0.88 
1.31 

29.82 
48.69 

41.23 
41.92 

21.05 
6.77 

7.03 
l.Sl 

Ffim  »•*»»,. , 

Total 

68.46 

132. 75 

62.65 

2.56 

3.73 

1.22 

44.93 

41-78 

9.62 

2.45 

Establishment  No. 
17: 
Males 

67.71 

68.27 

117.31 
105.39 

56.67 
65.76 

2.87 
1.84 

4.24 
2.70 

0.46 
3.10 

46-08 
48.12 

48.39 
38.74 

4.61 
9.01 

0.46 
1.03 

Females 

Total 

67.77 

116. 46 

57.51 

2.77 

4.08 

2.85 

47.94 

39.63 

8.60 

0.98 

Establishment  No. 
18: 
Males 

• 

74.74 
68.45 

97.20 
101.67 

68.15 
66.38 

1.82 
1.81 

2.44 
2.64 

10.25 
3.03 

48.72 
51.52 

3.'>.90 
39.39 

5.13 
6.06 

Females 

Total 

71. 67 

99.32 

67.35 

1.82 

2.53 

6.94 

50.00 

37.50 

5.56 

Establishment  No. 
19: 
Males 

44.6.3 
60.25 

100.00 
98.75 

50.00 
50.00 

1.48         3.^2 

100.00 

Females 

2.00 

3.31 

25.00 

50.00 

^5. 00    

Total 

52.28 

99.29 

50.00 

1.73 

3.32 

14.29 

28.57       57.14  1 

Establishment  No. 
20: 
Males 

70.97 
54.90 

108.12 
117.95 

41.06 
44.24 

3.33 
2.50 

4.70 
4.09 

"3."4i" 

54.55 
35.23 

33. 33 
54.54 

12.12 
6.82 

Females 



Total 

59.01 

115.09 

43.42 

2.71 

4.59 

2.48 

40.  £0 

48.76 

8.26 

Establishment  No, 
21: 
Males 

64.05 
62.17 

110.53 
120.00 

60.09 
58.31 

1.97 
2.12 

3.07 
3.41 

30.23 
23.08 

• 

65.12 
65.38 

4.65 
11.54 

Females 

---•-••• 

Total 

63.35 

114. 10 

59  42 

*>  n9 

3.19 

27.54 

65.22 

7.24 

• 

1056 


KEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


BEFORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


1057 


PKODUCTIVE  EFFICIENCY  IN  WEAVING  IN  WOOLEN  MILLS  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES    FOR 

MALES  AND  FEMALES. 

Table  74. ^Average  efficiency,  average  speed  of  horns,  average  number  of  picks  per  inch 
tn  fabrics,  average  number  of  yards  woven  per  hour,  and  percentage  of  total  looms 
atiaimng  specified  grades  of  productive  efficiency,  by  establishments. 


Ave^ 

J      effl- 

cienc; 

of  mil 

(per 

cent). 

Aver 
age 
speed 
of 
'    looms 
G>ickj 
per 
min- 
ute). 

Aver- 
age 
picks 
.       l>er 
'    inchii 
fabrics 

Average  yards     Per  cent  of  total  looms  in  each  mill  on 
woven  per  loom       which  the  weaver's  productive  efficiency 
per  hour—           was — 

Establishment  am 
sex. 

^i^^       Of                     70  per     50  per     30  per 
1      ,!,V^    actual     90  per  .^^^^    ^  cent       cent        Less 
^  timfof  Prodiic-  center  ^^}l  less  but  less  but  less    than 
^.?       ing        over        ^^       '^^^n       than      30  per 
'^^'"     time.                   90  per     70  per     50  per     ceAt. 
*"•                                cent.      cent.      cent. 

Establishment  No.  ] 
Males 

: 

.      60.56 

.      56.97 

98.59 
98.06 

36  32 
34.28 

2.88 
2.83 

4.76 
4.97 

.      19.23 
-      10.66 

60.58 
62.67 

20.19 
26.67 

Females 

-•■.•••* 

Total 

59.04 

OS    97 

35.45 

2.86 

4.85 

-      15.64 

61.45 

22.91 

........ 

Establishment  No.  2 

Males 

Females 

.'     64  55 
.     57. 78 

93.98 
94.00 

26.16 
26.63 

3.24 
3.43 

5.95 
5.94 

20.63 
18.75 

47.62 
62.50 

31.75 
18.75 

Total 

55.09  1    93.99 

26.25 

3.28 

3.17 
3.44 

5.95 

4.66 
5.00 

20.26 

50.63       29.11 

Establishment  No.  3 

Males 

68.06 

92.54 
92.55 

33.77 
30.54 

45.83 
48.28 

37.50 
4L38 

16.67 
10.34 

Females 

68.75 

Total 

68.32 

9"'  nH 

32.56 

. 

3.27 

4.79 

46. 75 

38.96 

14.29 

Establishment  No.  4: 
Males 

Females 

74.52 

72. 15 

9163 
92.00 

30.00 
30.00 

3.89 
3.69 

5.11 
5.11 

7.41 

69.26 
68.75 

33.33 
3L25 

Total 

73. 65  )    91.  77 

30.00 

■I     Tfl     1              E      t  1 

4.65  1    62.79      32.56 



O-  4Q 

u.  n 

' 

Establishment  No.  5: 

Males 

75.10 
73.54 

96.85 
90.45 

34.31 
33.19 

3.71 
3.56 

4.94 
4.84 

2.35 
6.38 

64.71 
6L70 

31.76 

27.66 

-^ 

30.30 

Females 

1.18 

4.26   

Total 

Establishment  No.  6: 

Males 

Females 

Total 

74.54  1    96.71 

33.91 

23197 
23.13 

3.65 

3.06 
3.51 

4.90 

5.68 
6.09 

3.79 

63.64 

1.51 

0.76 

53. 96       91. 32 
49.58       94.99 

0.47 

6.61 
L90 

45.28 
48.58 

45.28 
47.62 

2.38 
1.90 

52. 63       92. 42 

25.09 

3.20 

6.08 

0.32 

5.04 

46.37 

46.06 

2.21 

Establishment  No.  7: 
Males 

74.44 

92.22 

59.78 

52.67 
50.16 

2.06 

2.35 
2.52 

2.77 

3.70 

70.37 

— 1. 

25.93   

Establishment  No.  8: 

Males 

7L49 
76.59 

103.56 
100.00 

3.29 
3.29 

55.56 
23.08 

Females 

44.44 
76.92 

Total 

74.63 

101  47 

51.18 

2.45 

3.29    . 

63.64 

36.36 

Establishment  No.  9: 

Males 

69.35 
65.47 

a5.80 
95.71 

23.39 
23.10 

4.97 
4.54 

7.16    . 
6.94 

"5.66" 

44.90 
35.00 

48.98 
45.00 

6.12   . 
15.00   . 

Females 

Total ; 

68.43 

95.77 

100.47 
98.64 

23.30 

36.97 
34-62 

4.86        7.11 

1.45 

42.02 

47.83 

8.70   . 

Establishment   No. 
10: 

Males 

Femah^s 

6-(.0O 
69.41 

3.05 
3.39 

4.77    . 
4.89 

'i.'82" 

48.89 
43.64 

37.78 
49.09 

13.33    . 
5.45    . 

*...■>>• 

Total 

67. 12 

99.48 

35.68 

3.25 

4.84 

1.00 

46.00 

44.00 

9.00    . 

Establishment  No. 
11: 
Males 

65.43 
68.07 

89.50 
89.00 

55.00 
66.80 

L84 
LS9 

1.86 

2.82   . 
2.77   - 

20.00 
60.00 

80.00    . 
20.00 

Females 

20.00   . 

Total 

66.42 

89.33 

55.60 

2.80 

33.33  1    60.00 

6.67    . 

PRODUCTIVE   EFFICIENCY  IN  WEAVING    IN   WOOLEN   MILLS  IN  THE   UNITED  STATES  FOB 

MALES  AND  FEMALES — Continued. 

Table  74. — Average  efficiency,  average  speed  of  looms,  average  number  of  picks  per  inch 
in  fabrics,  average  number  of  yards  woven  per  hour,  and  percentage  of  total  looms 
attaining  specified  grades  of  productive  efficiency,  by  establishments — Continued. 


Aver- 
age 
effl- 

cienev 

of  mill 
(per 

cent). 

Aver- 
age 
speed 

of 
looms 
(picks 
per 
min- 
ute). 

Aver- 
age 

picks 

■per 
inch  in 
fabrics. 

Average  yards 

woven  per  loom 

per  hour— 

Per  cent  of  total  looms  in  each  mill  on 
which  the  weaver's  productive  efficiency 
was — 

Establishment  and 
sex. 

Of  total 
weav- 
ing 
time  of 
weav- 
ers. 

Of 
actual 
produc- 
ing 
time. 

90  per 

cent  or 

over. 

70  per     50  per     30  per 

cent       cent        cent 

but  less  but  less  but  less 

than       than       than 

90  per     70  per    50  per 

cent.      cent.      cent. 

Less 

than 

30  per 

cent. 

Establishment   No. 
12: 
Males 

68.97 
70.31 

97.33 
96.77 

34.36 
34.95 

3.53 
3.54 

5.12 
5.04 

5.88 
5.00 

47.06 
47.50 

35.29 
47.50 

n.77 

Females 

Total 

69.73 

1    97.04 

34.68 

3.54 

5.07 

5.41 

47.29 

4L89 

5.41 

Establishment   No. 
13: 
Males 

80.14 
77.02 

100.41 
94.80 

52.34 

48.38 

2.80 
2.53 

3.50 
3.29 

10.34 
4.76 

79.32 

85.72 

10.34 

4.76 

Females 

4.76 

Total 

78.80 

1     OR.  15» 

!    50.68 

2.69 

3.41 

8.00 

82.00 

8.00 

2.00   

Establishment  No. 
14: 
Males 

73.92 
73.68 

94.08 
97.92 

42.07 
42.00 

2.83 
2.89 

3.82 
3.92 

"7.69' 

70.37 
6L54 

25.93 
30.77 

9  Tn 

Females 

o.  lU  1 

Total 

73.85 

95.39 

49  nr^ 

2.85 

3.85 

2.50 

67.50 

27.50 

2.50 

Establi-shment  No. 
15: 
Males 

69.46 
61.26 

104.00 
95.77 

38.00 
39.43 

2.70 
2.45 

3. 89 
4.00 

100.00 
65.71 

"-  --  '—■ -m 

Females 

-..-.... 

20.00 

14.29 

Total 

62.00 

96.42  1    39.32 

2.48 

3.99 

18.42 

68.42 

13.16 

Establishment   No. 
16: 
Malps 

73.93 
79.17 

95.52 
95.25 

47.57 
46.22 

2.44 
2.69 

3.29 
3.39 

3.57 
5.56 

75.00 
72.22 

14.29 
22.22 

7.14 

Females 

Total 

76.00 

95.41 

47  ru 

2.53 

3.33 

4.35 

73.91 

17.39 

4.35 

Establishment   No. 
17: 
Males 

77.14 
73.84 

87.06 
88.45 

69.82 
67.33 

1.13 
1.60 

2.08 
2.16 

11.43 
12.50 

57.14 
58.34 

28.57 
20.83 

2.86 
8.33 

Females 

Total 

75.80 

87.62       fiR-7Q  1 

1.60 

2.12 

11.86 

57.63 

25.42 

5.09 

Establishment   No. 
18: 
Males  

58.48 
60.42 

96.04 
96.61 

24.18 
24.33 

4.54 
5.12 

7.77 
8.48 

1.67 
3.33 

28.33 
20.00 

51.67 
56.67 

15.00 
13.33 

Females 

3.33 
6.67 

Total 

59.14 

96.25 

24.22 

4.74 

8.02 

2.22 

25.56 

53.33 

14.44 

4.45 

Establishment   No. 
19: 
Males 

65.16 
65.43 

90.00 
93.89 

30.81 
30.73 

3.17 
3.42 

4.86 
5.22 

1.06 
4.35 

40.42 
4L31 

48.94 
52.17 

7.45 
2.17 

2.13 

Females 

Total 

65.26 

9:^.47 

30.78 

3.25 

4.98 

2.14 

40.72 

50.00 

5.71 

L43 

Establishment  No. 
20: 
Males 

61. 32 
54.18 

94.67 
94.62 

28.53 
26.12 

3.44 
3.47 

5.60 
6.39 

2.86 

5.88 

20.00 

5.88 

57.14 
47.06 

5.71 
4L18 

14.29 

Females 

Total 

58.98 

94.65 

- 

27.73 

3.45 

5.84 

3.85 

15.38 

53.85 

17.31 

9.61 

Establishment  No. 
21: 
Males 

60.51 
61.61 

105.07 
104.72 

26. 17 

25.78 

4.53 
4.60 

7.49 
7.46 

18.18 
19.44 

71.21 
69.45 

10.61 
11.11 

Females 

Total 

60.89 

104.95 

26.04 

4.56 

7.48 

18.63 

70.59 

10.78 

.V 


1058 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


Table  73  throws  light  on  the  question  of  whether  males  or  females 
are  more  slallf  ul  as  worsted  weavers. 

On  the  whole  it  appears  that  female  worsted  weavers  are  fuUv  as 
eftcient  as  males.     In  three  of  the  21  worsted  mills  shown  in  table  73 
only  male  weavers  were  employed,  and  in  each  mill  the  average 
elliciency  was  high.  ^ 

In  five  establislmients  (Nos.  2,  4,  9,  11,  and  17)  the  female  weavers 
Jiad  a  higher  average  efficiency  than  the  males,  but  the  margin  of 
supenority  was  slight.  In  two  establishments  (Nos.  13  ajid  14)  the 
maiigm  m  favor  of  the  female  weavers  was  larger,  while  in  two  others 
{Noa.  16  and  19)  the  superiority  of  the  females  was  very  marked  In 
other  words,  m  9  of  the  1 8  mills  for  which  a  comparison  can  be  made  the 
females  were  more  efficient.  And  in  this  connection,  it  may  be  noted 
tnat  m  mm  JNo.  19,  which  was  mentioned  above  as  having  the  lowest 
average  efficiencT  of  anv  of  the  worsted  mills,  the  female  weavers  had 
a  fair  efficiency  but  the  mefficiency  of  the  males—the  greatest  shown 
for  that  sex  in  any  of  the  above  miUs—brought  the  average  for  the 
mill  to  a  low  pomt  ^^ 

TkT^^,^¥  ^^^^^  ^^^^^'  ^^^^  were  more  efficient  in  establishments 
J|Ios.  1, 3,  5,  10,  12,  15,  18, 20,  and  21,  but  in  only  one  (No.  20)  was 
their  supenonty  marked.  .  j  \  /     «^ 

Although  female  weavers  show,  on  the  whole,  a  higher  average 
efficiency,  they  are  not  to  be  found  in  the  highest  group— 90  per  cent 
and  over— m  so  large  relative  numbers  as  the  mde«.  On  the  other 
^and,  they  are  found  a  httle  more  often  in  the  lowest  group— less  than 
30  per  cent.  ©      r 

In  woolen  mills,  as  in  worsted  mills,  female  weavers  are  fullv  as 
ellicient  as  male  weavers.  A  comparison  of  the  relative  efficiencv  of 
the  sexes  can  be  made  for  20  of  the  21  woolen  mills  shown  in  table  74 

In  10  establishments  (Nos.  2,  3,  8,  10,  11,  12,  16,  18,  19,  and  21) 
the  averages  shown  for  females  are  higher  than  those  for  males.     In 
two  establishments  (Nos.  3  and  21)  the  margin  of  superiority  is  slight 
and  m  no  case  IS  It  marked.  ^       "s  ^; 

In  10  establishments  (Nos.  1,  4,  5,  6,  9,  13,  14,  15,  17,  and  20)  the 
male  weavers  were  more  efficient.  In  one  case  the  margin  in  favor 
of  the  males  was  very  little.  ^ 

nf  *^®.^ol^owmg  tables  a  more  detailed  comparative  study  of  the 
mill  elliciency  is  possible  by  a  presentation  of  efficiencv  data  on 
specified  woolen  and  worated  fabrics : 


REPORT   OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


1059 


PRODUCTIVE    EFFICIENCY  IN   THE    WEAVING   OP   BPECIPIED    WOOLEN    FABRICS   IN    MILLS 

IN   THE   UNITED   STATES. 


verage  efficiency,  average  speed  of  looms,  average  picks  per  inch  in  fabrics, 
ber  of  yards  woven  per  hour  and  percentage  of  total  looms  attaining  specified 

/fiirfivfi  fifii(vipv.ni.  mi  fijitnhlijthm.fin.fs. 


Table  75. — A — y..  .j,.- 

average  number  of  yards  woven  per  nour  arui  pert 
grades  of  productive  efficiency,  by  establishments 


Average 

Per  cent  of  total  looms  on  specified 

yards 

woven 

fabrics  in  each  mill  on  which  the 

Average 

Aver- 

per! 

oom 

weaver's    productive    efficiency 

, 

efficiency 

age 

Aver- 

per hoiu"— 

was — 

% 

of  all 

weavers 

speed 
of 

age 
picks 

Establislmient  and  fabric. 

on  speci- 
fied 
fabrics 
(per 
cent). 

looms 
(picks 
per 
min- 
ute). 

per 
inch  in 
fab- 
rics. 

Of  to- 
tal 

weav- 
ing 

time  of 

weav- 
er. 

Of  ac- 
tual 
pro- 
duc- 
ing 

time. 

90i)er 
cent 
and 

over. 

70  per 
cent 
but 
1p.ss 
than 
90. 

50  per 

cenf 

but 

less 

than 

70. 

30  per 
cent 
but 
less 
than 
50. 

Less 

than 

30 

per 

cent. 

Plain  cheviots: 

Establishment  No.  1 . . 

72.44 

99.84 

31.84 

3.79 

6.23 

3.85 

53.84 

38.46 

3.85 

Establishment  No.  2.. 

83.77 

102. 70 

44.25 

3.17 

3.94 

8.33 

79.17 

8.33 

4.17 

Establishment  No.  3.. 

68.22 

92.38 

28.94 

3.37 

4.94 

42.86 

50.00 

7.14 

Establishment  No.  4. . 

63.23 

98.82 

34.00 

3.02 

4.78 

36.36 

45.46 

18.18 

Establishment  No.  5. . 

69.14 

93.33 

31.47 

3.95 

5.71 

6.67 

40.00 

40.00 

13.33 

Establishment  No.  6. . 

73.65 

92.00 

30.00 

3.76 

5.11 

4.65 

62.79 

32.56 

Fancy  cheviots: 

Establishment  No.  1 . . 

71.23 

95.79 

24.10 

4.84 

6.79 

48.27 

44.83 

6.90 

Plain  eassimeres: 

Establishment  No.  1.. 

75.81 

94.41 

35.24 

3.49 

4.62 

1.47 

70.59 

25.00 

1.47 

1.47 

Establishment  No.  2. . 

69.28 

92.51 

32.09 

3.16 

4.53 

50.00 

38.64 

11.36 

Establishment  No.  3. . 

70.38 

99.52 

38.44 

2.92 

4.20 

3.70 

48.16 

44.45 

3.70 

Establishment  No.  4. . 

78.11 

97.97 

35.79 

3.21 

4.11 

7.«) 

55.26 

34.21 

2.63 

Establishment  No.  5. . 

71.49 

96.45 

29.90 

3.86 

6.44 

61.90 

• 

38.10 

Fancy  eassimeres: 

Establishment  No.  1 . . 

67.03 

96.72 

24.53 

4.38 

6.54 

1.96 

35.29 

50.98 

11.77 

Establishment  No.  2.. 

67.  J.8 

100.00 

41.52 

2.58 

3.84 

52.17 

39.13 

8.70 

Establishment  No.  3. . 

63.81 

94.00 

25.58 

3.89 

6.09 

50.00 

33.33 

16.67 

Establishment  No.  4. . 

62.82 

95. 68 

39.03 

2.45 

3.90 

18.92 

64.86 

16.22 

Establishment  No.  5. . 

67.81 

98.00 

40.17 

2.76 

4.08 

54.17 

41.67 

4.16 

Establishment  No.  6. . 

75.22 

84.86 

49.20 

2.57 

3.42 

6.25 

70.84 

20.83 

2.08 

Plain    overcoatings    and 

cloalcings: 

Establishment  No.  1. . 

77.30 
61.47 

97.09 
115.33 

63.82 
29.60 

2.  .32 
3.88 

3.00 
6.  .31 

90.91 
26.67 

9.09 
60.00 

Establishment  No.  2.. 

13.33 

Establishment  No.  3. . 

54.44 

93.92 

24.17 

3.65 

6.71 

10.53 

52.63 

34-21 

2.63 

Establishment  No.  4. . 

76.78 
59.43 

92.20 
107. 21 

77.00 
22.44 

1.97 
5.07 

2.66 
8.64 

14.28 

64.29 
13.46 

21.43 
71.15 

Establishment  No.  6. , 

15.39 

Establishment  No.  6. . 

58.86 

99.47 

34.69 

2.90 

4.93 

15.62 

60.94 

23.44 

Establishment  No.  7 . . 

65.38 

78.80 

62.40 

1.45 

2.62 

80.00 

20.00 

Fancy  overcoatings  and 

cloakings: 

• 

Establishment  No.  1 . . 

62.33 

93.13 

22.63 

3.73 

7.13 

0.37 

4.51 

43.61 

48.50 

3.01 

Establishment  No.  2. . 

53.33 

95.12 

21.05 

4-41 

8.27 

2.38 

11.91 

69.52 

19.06 

7.14 

Establishment  No.  3. . 

64.69 

60.84 

108.00 
93.38 

22.00 
42.50 

5.27 
2.24 

8.14 
3.68 

40.00 
18.76 

60.00 
66.25 

Establishment  No.  4. . 

25.00 

Establishment  No.  5. . 

50.66 

93.98 

26.40 

3.13 

6.17 

13.11 

62.46 

34.43 

Broadcloths: 

Establishment  No.  1. . 

57.79 

109.52 

56.05 

1.97 

3.40 

13.17 

65.84 

20.64 

0.35 

Establishment  No.  2.. 

61.57 

97.30 

44.00 

2.27 

3.69 

16.38 

69.24 

15-38 

Plain  woolens: 

Establishment  No.  1.. 
Establishment  No.  2. . 

59.64 
64.10 

95.00 
98.89 

14.00 
30.00 

6.71 
3,60 

11.26 
5.62 

33.33 
16.67 

50.00 
75.00 

16.67 
8.33 

Establishment  No.  3.. 

69.49 

96.80 

42.60 

2.79 

4.01 

66.67 

11-11 

22.22 

Establishment  No.  4. . 

58.93 

97.03 

32.03 

2.88 

4.89 

10.81 

63.51 

25.68 

Establishment  No.  5. . 

65.29 

97.67 

20.17 

6.63 

8.62 

25.00 

50.00 

25.00 

Ladies'  fancy  dress  goods: 

Establishment  No.  1 . . 

64.01 

89.63 

31.24 

3.05 

4.75 

1.11 

32.22 

56.67 

7.78 

2.22 

Establishment  No.  2. . 

68.56 

101.75 

40.83 

2.43 

4.16 

8-33 

75.00 

16.67 

Establishment  No.  3. . 
Carriage  and  auto  cloths: 

62.05 

96.00 

14.00 

0.68 

10.68 

20.00 

70.00 

10.00 

Establishments   Nos. 

1  t0  4 

61.92 

105.71 

28.14 

4.20 

6.79 

14.29 

78.57 

7.14 

Uniform  cloths: 

Establishment  No.  1 . . 

81.94 

87.87 

67.07 

1.79 

2.19 

11.32 

54.72 

28.  ."M) 

5.66 

Establishment  No.  2. . 

59.63 
75.97 

97.76 
101. 67 

44.69 
60.10 

3.03 
2.45 

5.08 
3.23 

6.88 

82.35 
63.64 

11.77 
36.36 

Establishment  No.  3. . 

1060 


REPORT   OF   TARIFF   BOARD  ON    SCHEDULE   K. 


PmODtJCTIVE   EFFICIENCY   IN   THE   WE  AVI  NO   OF  SPECIFIED   WORSTED   FABRICS   IN    MILLS 

IN   THE   UNITED   STATES. 

Table  7i}.— Average  efficiency,  average  speed  of  looms,  average  pkls  per  inch  in  fabrics 
average  number  of  yards  woven  per  hour,  and  percentage  of  total  looms  attaining  sped- 
Jted  grades  of  productive  efficiency,  by  estabHshments. 


Establishment  and  fabric. 


Avwtge 

offlclency 
of  all 

weavers 

on  speci- 
fied 

fabrics 

•  (per 

cent). 


Fancy  worsteds: 

Establishment  No.  1.. 

Estabiishment  No.  2. . 

Establishment  No.  3.. 

EsfabHshment  No.  4.. 

Establishment  No.  5.. 

Establi-shment  No.  8-. 

Establishment  No.  7.. 

Establishment  No.  8.. 

Establishment  No.  9. . 

Establishment  No.  10. 

Establishment  No.  11, 
Plain  serge: 

Establishment  No.  1 . . 

Establishment  No.  2.. 

Establishment  No.  3. . 

Establishment  No.  4.. 

Establishment  No.  5. . 

Establishment  No.  6- . 

Estabhshment  No.  7.. 
Establi.shment  No.  8.. 
Establishment  No.  9. , 
Establishment  No.  10. 
Fincy  serse: 

Estabiislmient  No.  1 . . 
.KltaiMiwiiiiient  No.  2. . 
EstaMMmient  No.  3. . 
Establishment  No.  4.. 
Plain  worsteds: 

Establishment  No.  1 . . 
EstabUshment  No.  2. . 
EslmliliakiiMnt  No.  3. . 
Batablishment  No.  4.. 
Establishinent  No.  5 . . 
Establtshment  No.  6. . 
Establifliuiient  No.  7. . 
Establishmeiit  No.  8. . 
Mohair,  alpaea,  and  lustar 
dnsBgoiMiB'aiMl  Uniiigs* 

teS-.-. '  . 


68.08 
68.43 
70.51 
72.55 
67.00 
63.35 
65.85 
72.28 
76. -18 
82.00 
69.16 

84.15 
84.92 
65.73 
89.15 

fXI.  DO 

75.85 
80.57 
77.14 
76.39 
81.67 

67.77 
86.29 
60.37 
76.56 

80.M 
73.08 
SI.  05 
63.91 
flS.08 
6I».17 
65.82 
91.68 


65.47 


Aver- 
age 
speed 

of 
looms 
(picks 
per 
min- 
ute). 


Aver- 
age 
picks 
per 
inch  in 
fab- 
rics. 


Average 

yards  woven 

per  loom 

per  hour— 


Per  cent  of  total  looms  on  sixx-ified 
fabric  in  each  mill  on  which  the 
weaver's  productive  efflciency 
was— 


103.50 

107. 41 
112.00 
108.07 
122.19 
113.  76 
129.11 
104.35 
100.08 
92.  a3 
112.25 

120.00 
124. 10 
121.25 
120.00 
124.67 
116.72 

96.94 
121.60 

93.39 
125.53 

120.85 

118. 16 

108. 13 

81.94 

100.97 
96. 31 
107.56 
12a  59 
104.27 
104.50 
128.00 
92.00 


169.30 


66.75 
55.96 
61.42 
56.76 
65.08 
59.42 
52.  IS 
54.00 
119.54 
75.11 
48.05 

46.00 
60.85 
68.95 
52.  .50 
65.14 
61.11 
53.18 
58.03 
63.45 
45.81 

52.43 
61.69 
34.19 
67.60 

64.60 
62.19 

66.17 
68.35 
48.89 
56.93 
51.20 
64.25 


48.22 


Of  to- 
tal 

weav- 
ing 

time  of 

weav- 


1.76 
2.22 
2.12 
2.19 
2.51 
2.03 
2-76 
2.38 
3.15 
1.76 
2.72 

3.04 
2.83 
2.27 
3.04 
2.55 
2.33 
2.46 
2.79 
1.93 
3.85 

2.58 
2.01 
3.00 
1.90 

2.25 

1.88 
2.12 
1.94 
2.43 
2.17 
2.79 
2.21 


3.05 


Of  ac- 
tual 
Sro- 
uo- 
ing 
time. 


2.59 
3.24 
3.01 
3.16 
3.74 
3.20 
4.19 
3.18 
4.13 
2.15 

a92 

4.47 
3.33 
3.46 
3.41 
3.82 
3.08 
3.06 
3.61 
2.53 
4.71 

a  81 
aos 

4.95 
2.48 

2.80 
2.57 
2.53 

3.03 
.3.74 
a  14 
4.24 
2.41 


4.65 


90  per 
cent 
and 

over. 


„ 


"70  per 
cent 

but 

less 

than 

90  per 

cent. 


2.60 


1.00 


9.10 
i6.70 


23.00 


37.50 

a  00 
a  20 

11.80 

22.60 

1.90 

6.50 

0.90 
22.30 


16.00 

1.90 

4.00 

12.80 

5.90 

6.70 

1.10 

30.00 

62.50 


41.00 
49.00 
58.30 
37.90 
36.70 
27.50 
37.50 
60.00 
76.90 
72.20 
48.70 

46.20 
72.20 
40.50 
62.50 
38.60 
62.80 
64.70 
60.40 
7a  60 
9a  50 

45.40 
76.70 
18.70 
60.00 

94.20 
60.00 
87.20 
17.60 
23.30 
4a  80 
60.00 
37.30 


30.40 


50  per 

cent 

but 

less 

than 

70  per 

cent. 


30  per 

cent 

but 

less 

than 

50  per 

cent 


I/ess 

than 

30 

per 

cent. 


48.70 
45. 10 
41.70 
62.10 
64.10 
65.20 
57.10 
31.80 
23.10 
11.10 
48.70 

52.40 

4.30 

52.40 


70 
90 


8.20 
7.30 
6.40 
9.10 


49.80 
32.00 
23.50 
17.00 
22.60 


41.70 

1.00 

4a  80 

20.00 

a  90 
29.40 


2.60 

2.40 
0.50 
7.10 


8.60 
2.00 


1.90 


12.00 


37.  .W 
4.00 


64.70 
5a  30 
48.10 
10.00 


64.10 


5.30 


11.80 

16.70 

7.00 


5.50 


1.30 


In  the  firet  of  the  above  tables  efficiency  data  on  1 1  staple  woolen 
fabrics  are  shown  and  from  these  it  would  appear  that  in  general 
a  higher  efficiency  can  be  secured  in  weaving  a  plain  fabric  than  a 
fancy  one.  For  instance,  higher  averages  are  shown  on  plain  cassi- 
meres  than  on  fancy  cassbneres ;  likewise  for  plain  overcoatings  as 
compared  with  fancy  overcoatings. 

This  is  not  surprising  since  a  fancy  fabric  is  more  difficult  to  weave 
than  a  plain  fabric,  because  of  a  more  complicated  construction,  or 
the  use  of  several  colors  of  filling,  or  both. 

The  highest  efficiency  on  any  woolen  fabric  is  shown  for  plain 
cheviots— 83.77  per  cent  in  establishment  No.  2,  and  the  next  highest, 
81.94  per  cent,  for  uniform  cloths.  The  lowest  efficiency  figures 
are  shown  for  fancy  overcoatings  and  cloakings— 50.66,  52.33,  and 
53.33  per  cent. 


EEPOET  OF  TARIFF  BOAED   ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


1061 


It  will  be  observed  further  that  on  the  same  line  of  fabrics  there 
are  wide  differences  between  establishments,  except  perhaps  in  plain 

cflfSsiniGrGS 

It  will  be  observed  in  the  second  of  the  tables  above  that,  on  the 
whole,  a  higher  average  efficiency  was  secured  in  the  weaving  of  plain 
serges  than  for  any  other  worsted  fabric  shown.  Five  of  the  ten 
mifls  had  an  average  of  more  than  80  per  cent.  The  averages  for 
plain  serge  were  much  better  than  for  fancy  serges. 

Three  of  the  eight  mills  making  plain  worsteds  had  an  average  of 
more  than  80  per  cent,  one  having  an  average  of  91 .68  per  cent.  On  the 
whole,  better  results — so  far  as  productive  efficiency  was  concerned — 
were  secured  in  weaving  plain  worsteds  than  on  fancy  worsteds. 

The  following  tables  show  the  number  of  looms,  but  it  can  be  said 
that  each  loom  represents  a  weaver  and  accordingly,  in  the  following 
discussion,  the  term  ''weaver"  will  be  used  interchangeably  with 
''loom."  iBut  it  should  be  stated  in  this  connection  that  in  a  great 
majority  of  cases,  operatives  weaving  plain  or  fancy  serges,  or  plain 
and  fancy  worsteds,  tend  two  looms,  while  the  yardage  shown  in  the 
following  tables  is  the  product  of  one  loom. 

If  the  weaver  was  producing  on  both  of  his  looms  a  plain  serge,  with 
the  same  number  of  picks  per  inch  and  same  speed  of  loom,  his  produc- 
tion on  the  two  looms  would  be  twice  as  great,  under  good  conditions, 
as  on  one  loom.  But  in  many  cases  the  fabric,  speed,  or  picks  per 
inch  are  not  the  same  on  the  two  looms  operated  by  the  weaver. 

The  following  table  shows  the  number  and  per  cent  of  looms  upon 
wliich  plain  serges  were  woven  and  upon  which  the  specified  yardage 
was  produced  per  10  hours  of  the  actual  weaving  time  of  the  weaver: 

Table  77. — Production  of  plain  serge  fabrics,  classified  by  number  of  picks  per  inch  and 
by  speed  of  loom,  with  the  number  and  percentage  of  looms  on  which  specified  yardage  of 
doth  was  woven  in  a  day  of  10  hours. 

[  Based  on  weavers'  efficiency  data  for  a  number  of  worsted  goods  establishments.] 


Kind  of  cloth. 


PLAIN  SERGE. 

43 picks  per  inch. 

44  picks  per  inch. 

45  picks  per  inch. 
46 picks  per  inch. 

48  picks  per  inch. 

49  picks  per  inch. 
SOpicks  per  inch. 
52picks  per  inch. 
54picks  per  inch. 
55 picks  per  inch. 
56picks  per  inch. 
58picks  per  inch. 
59 picks  per  inch. 
60 picks  per  inch. 
62picks  per  inch. 
64 picks  per  inch. 
65picks  per  inch. 
66picks  per  inch. 
eSpicks  per  inch. 
72picks  per  inch. 
74picks  per  inch. 
76 picks  per  inch. 


a 

ft 

a 

5  o 

Is 

"a 


Number  and  per  cent  of  looms  on  specified  cloths  ujwn  which  the  yards 
woven  per  10  hours  of  actual  weaving  time  of  weavers  (exclusive  of 
idle  time  waiting  for  warp,  filling,  loom  fixing)  were — 


37  yards 
and  over. 


S 

3 


120 

125 

121 

126 

126 

120 

122 

120 

125 

126 

123 

1251. 

109. 

124. 

122'- 

119' 

114;. 

109. 

1031- 

118,. 

116'. 

12o!. 


39 
8 
3 

84 

22 

1 

1 


o 
l-l 


30.71 

3a34 

6.00 

42.64 

3a  60 

L18 

L82 


33  to  36 
yards. 


o 

a 


a 

8 


29  to  32 
yards. 


25  to  28 
yards. 


a 

3 
'A 


35 
8 
19 
41 
10 
17 
16 
21 
12 
1 
33 
46 


27.56 
3a  34 
38.00 
20.81 
17.54 
20.00 
29.09 
20.19 
22.64 
L22 
1L79 
14.46 


a 
8 

u 


30 
1 

19 

37 

5 

21 

7 

25 

24 

11 

114 

158 


131 
55 


2a  62 

4.16 
38.00 
1&78 

&77 
24  70 
12.73 
24  04 
45.28 
13.41 
40.72 
49.69 


a 


40.06 
27.63 


12 

6 

5 

22 

9 

30 

11 

30 

16 

33 

79 

84 

4 

115 

46 

96 

42 

1 


21  to  24 
yards. 


B 
^ 


a 
8 

u 

Ph 


9.45 
20.84 
10.00 
1L17 
15.79 
35.29 
20.00 
2a  85 
30.19 
40.24 
28.21 
26.42 

8.88 
35.17 
23.12 
3&86 

9.50 

3.12 


2.44 


2.78 


8 
2 
4 

8' 
12 
12 
17 
1 
27 
37 
21 
26 
59 
63 
88 

230 
19 
39 
14 
17 

'  18 


16  to  20 
yards. 


u 

M 


6.30 

&32 

&00 

406 

14  04 

14  12 

24  82 

16.35 

L89 

32.93 

13.21 

a60 

57.78 

18.04 

3L66 

35.63 

52.04 

59.38 

67.35 

3415 

34  00 

5a  00 


5 
3 
3 
5 


a 
8 


2  36 


54 
26 
53 
09 
69 


9 
13 

7 
14 
19 
31 
51 
162 
12 
24 
20 
33 
15 


10. 
4 
2. 

3L 
5. 

15. 

20. 

36. 

37. 

35. 

48. 

6d 

4L 


98 
64 
20 
12 
81 
58 
65 
65 
50 
29 
78 
00 
67 


Less  than 
16  yards. 


a 


8 

o 


1 

4 
2 
1 
3 
4 
12 
8 


L18 
5.45 

2.88 


L22 
L43 
0.63 
2.22 
0.92 
2.01 
486 
4  81 


7.36 
14  63 


5.55 


127 

24 

50 

197 

57 

85 

55 

104 

53 

82 

280 

318 

45 

327 

199 

247 

442 

32 

68 

41 

50 

36 


32080"— H.  Doc.  342,  62-2,  vol  2 29 


1062 


REPOET  OF  TAHIFF  BOAED  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


The  above  table  shows  the  ratiRe  of  production  of  plain  ser^e  of  the 

fIbricTn°tKZf;f '  tT"^-  <  P'f» -^g°  H  '^  «tanfe  and  a  J'taSdard 
labnc  in  the  industry.    The  output  of  a  number  of^estabhshments  ia 

fclfS-""'V°'°P°'*"^  ""!  '^'^'^'  '^"•^  i*  '«  «  f-^bric  from  which  th^ 
over  wholly  to  this  fabric  day  al'ter  day  for  the  entire  year, 
nf  Twl^L^^'^T  \^^  ^f'^.^*'  produced  in  the  actual  weaving  time 
ft  witr^"  '.?*'l"'^"'^/^°  *r^  ^^^  ^«'""  ^'^  in  motion  and  the  time 
for  w«rn  ?£il  °  ^*  ^¥'  "'^  exchange  bobbms,  but  excluding  waiti 
for  warp  or  filhng  or  loom  fmng.    the  table  shows  the  speed  and 

?I  SXfr  Tt  "*  "^^  ^"^P,  ""^  ^°'"?^\  .1°  g'"^'"-«l  it  can  bo  said  that 
the  lower  the  number  of  picks  per  mcli  in  a  fabric  the  faster  it  can  be 

ThJ^iJlT^  t*?  ^M*'*^  '''**'  the  number  of  picks  per  mch  and 
IVh^rnf^tT  ^^'^  tho  same  the  faster  the  loom  tfie  lai^er  the 
nrck,  npr  i^r  f  °-  *"  ^^™  /"I'""  ^^''^  <"*"  '^'^  ^^"^''n-  The  number  of 
Ihan  t^/s^eed  of  \hfS''  '°"''"'''-'  '^  '""'^^  '""''^  '""P-^-*  ^^t- 

4ili!l!t  J-!  .t°^^  .*^f  ^  "^  ^e»ve«  were  weaving  a  plain  serge  having 
43  picks  to  the  inch  at  a  speed  of  120  picks  per  imnute.    Of  the  total 

hou^  TsTe"^;'^'  "^St'^P"'  ''«'"*'/-'•"?«  J  37  vards  and  over  in  10 
hours,  35  weavers,  or  27.6  per  cent,  produced  from  33  to  36  yards 
in  10  hours;  30  weavers,  or  23.6  per  cent,  produced  from  29  to  33 

f  ?  to  '^4  varX''wh'][rt'''*  '^  *"  -'  l^"*^;,^  ^«'^^««  produced  from 
houra       ^        '  ^"^^  ^  weavers  produced  from  16  to  20  yards  in  10 

to  the  inch  nt  t^JlT^TiT^"^  T'^  weaving  a  seigo  having  G5  picks 

in  ?0*hou^*^'41f  w^J'""'  *-'  Z  ^-^  P^""  ''^"*'  P^'dueed  25  to  28  yards 
i6'>  weavP^'  nr  J«  '^'^'  *""  P^  P*"",  '=''">  Produced  21  to  24  yards; 
ibJ  weavers  or  36.6  per  cent,  produced  16  to  20  yards-  while  8 
weavers  produced  less  than  16  yards  in  10  hours.        ^        ' 

It  should  be  borne  iii  mind  that  the  smaUer  production  in  varda<re 

beaSf^tt,AT'^S  *^^"  fff^^t  ""'^•^"^  «f  picks  per  inchC  no 
bearmg  on  the  elhciency  of  the  weavers,  as  those  weaving  the  sem-es 
havTng  65  picks  per  mch  might  have  had  a  greater  efficiency  tlTan 
those  weavmg  a  greater  number  of  yards  having  43  picks  per  inch 

2tif'TF  ***  t'^^.^^'^T  i^b-^eJ  on  the  timelie  keK^  loom  n 
motion  and  producing.     It  should  be  undeKtood  that  the  2893 

TfT'f  «f  rT  V^'""  *,">'"  ^r'"''»  ^^''^^'•^  ^^^  *  number  of  dilS- 
ent  establishments  makmg  the  same  class  of  goods.  This  aoDliea 
also  to  other  goods  shown  in  the  following  tables:  PP 

asU'^sStr^aile^ir  '"""'^  "''^''  ^''^'"'^  '^'  '^"^^  ^"'^'"tiona 


BEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


1063 


Table  78. — Production  offarwy  serge  fabrics,  classijwd  by  number  of  picks  per  inch,  cmd 
bv  speed  of  loom,  with  the  number  and  percentage  of  looms  on  which  specified  yardage  of 
Cloth  was  woven  in  a  day  of  10  hours. 

{Based  on  wesureis'  effieieoicj  data  Dor  a  rmmher  of  worsted  estabiJshBieaits.] 


Kind  of  cloth. 


FANCY  SEBOS. 

47  picks  per  incb. . 
fiO  picks  per  inch. . 
54  picks  per  inch. . 
65  picks  per  inch.. 
58  picks  per  mch. . 
60  picks  per  inch. . 

64  picks  per  inch. . 

65  picks  per  inch.- 

66  picks  pCTiTK*h.. 
70  picks  per  inch.. 
81  picks  per  iach.- 


5 

•a 

•OR 


SQ   ^ 

0 


121 

117 

1191 

121 

111 

IM 

120 

113 

i05 

110 

IDS 


Number  and  per  cent  of  looms  oa  specified  cloths  upon  which  the  yards 
woven  per  10  hours  of  actual  weaving  time  of  weavers  (exclusive  of  idle 
tkafi  vaitksg  ior  warp,  fiUiog,  k>om  fixing)  yreie — 


37  yards 
ana  over. 


4.48 
2.63 


33  to  36 

■jrards. 


^ 


IS 
2 


a 


26.87 
5.26 


2.63 


29to32 
yards. 


J 
^ 


15 
10 
8 
5 
8 
3 
23 


a 
S 


22.® 
26.32 
17.78 
13.16 
20.51 
3.66 
33.33 


25  to  28 
yaids. 


^ 

^ 


14 
14 
17 
14 
14 
35 
28 
5 


8 


20.89 
36.  S4 
37.78 

36.84 
35.90 
42.  ( 
40.58 
9.62 


21  to  24 
yards. 


I 

a 


9 
7 
13 
12 
12 
18 
12 
29 
12 
1 


a 
8 


13.43 

18.42 
28.89 
31.58 
33.33 
21.95 
17.39 
38. 4« 
17.39 
5.36 


16  to  20 
yards. 


J 
^ 


t 

4 

7 

€ 

4 

22 

4 

21 

53 

12 

19 


^ 


10.45 
10.53 
15.55 
15.79 
10.2tV 
26.83 
5.80 
40.38 
76.81 
€3.16 
61.29 


Less  than 
16  yards. 


4 

2 
6 
4 
6 
12 


a 
8 


1.49 


4.88 

2.90 
11.54 

5.80 
31.58 
38.71 


8 

2 
o 


67 
38 
45 

38 
89 

82 
69 
52 

m 

19 
31 


In  Table  78  the  same  general  results  are  noted  as  in  the  table 
for  plain  sei^e.  In  weaving,  on  looms  of  average  speed  of  121  picks 
per  minute,  fancy  serge  fabrics  having  47  picks  per  inch,  67  weavers 
were  engaged,  of  whom  only  36  were  able  to  weave  29  or  more 
yards  in  a  day  of  10  hours,  only  21  weavers  producing  more  than 
32yards. 

In  weaving  fancy  serges  having  more  than  50  picks  per  inch,  there 
was  only  one  weaver  out  of  444  who  was  able  to  weave  more  than 
32  yards  per  day  of  10  hours.  This  weaver  made  from  33  to  36 
yards,  but  operated  a  loom  making  120  picks  per  minute.  Only  48 
weavers  among  444  engaged  in  making  fancy  serges  having  more 
than  50  picks  per  inch  were  able  to  weave  more  than  28  yards  per 
day. 


f% 


"I  J 


1064 


BEPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOABD  ON   SCHEDTTLE  K, 


The  following  tables  for  plain  and  fancy  worsteds  present  the  same 
data  as  shown  above  for  serges: 

Table  79. — Production  of  plain  andfanr^  worsted  fabrics,  classified  hy  number  of  picks 
per  inch  and  by  speed  of  loom,  vAth  the  number  and  percentage  of  looms  on  which  specified 
yardage  of  cloth  was  woven  in  a  day  of  10  hours. 

{Based  oa  weavers'  efliciency  data  for  a  number  of  worsted  goods  establiskments.] 


Kindofclotb. 


Aver- 
age 
speed 

of 
looms 
(pick 
per 
min- 
ute). 


PLAm  WORSTED. 


48  picks 
M  picks 
52  picks 
56  picks 
58  picks 
60  picks 
62  picks 
64  picks 
68  picks 
70  picks 
74  picks 
80  picks 


per  inch 
per  inch 
per  inch 
per  inch 
per  inch 
per  inch 
per  inch 
per  inch, 
per  inch, 
per  inch . 
per  inch. 
per  inch. 


FANCY  WORSTED. 

46  picks  per  inch. 

48  picks  per  inch. 
50  picks  per  inch . 
62  picks  per  inch . 
64  picks  per  inch. 
56  picks  per  inch. 
68  picks  per  inch. 
60  picks  per  inch . 
64  picks  per  inch . 
68  picks  per  inch. 
72  picks  per  inch. 


Number  and  per  cent  of  looms  on  specified  cloths  upon  which  the  yards  woven 
per  10  hours  of  actual  weaving  time  of  weavers  (exclusive  of  idle  time  waiting 
for  warp,  filling,  loom  fixing)  were— 


37  yards 
and  over. 


z 

s 

3 
S5 


109 
109 
116 
103 
108 
100 
105 
104 
113 
112 
107 
111 


123 
115 
117 
123 
121 
116 
118 
112 
101 
117 
112 


33  to  36 
yards. 


a 
8 


26.31 
5.00 


1.90 


z 
1 

a 


4 

2 
10 


is 


29  to  32 
yards. 


14.28 
6.00 
9.62 


3 
3 

5 

18 

2 


15.79 
15.00 
14.71 
11.39 
1.67 


a 


4 

6 
39 
16 

7 


6 
2 
11 
49 
12 
11 
11 
2 


I 


14.29 

18.18 
37.50 
10.74 
22.58 


31.58 
10.00 
32.35 
31.01 
10.00 
14.94 
15.94 
2.08 


25  to  28 
yards. 


21  to  24 
yards. 


z 

B 

s 
S5 


12 
14 
24 
37 

7 
16 

8 


a 
8 


6 


2 

10 

11 

53 

50 

23 

25 

6 

4 

6 


42.86 
42.43 
23.08 
24. 83 
22.58 
10. 19 
14.81 


18.18 


10.63 
50.00 
32.35 
33.55 
41.67 
.33.33 
36.23 
6.25 
7.14 
18.75 


z 

a 

3 
'A 


4 

8 
22 
42 
10 
44 
25 
26 
18 
19 
10 

3 


2 

4 
6 
29 
33 
23 
24 
32 
20 
13 
11 


a 

8 


16  to  20 
yards. 


z 

a 

3 

A 


14.29 
24-24 
21.15 
28.19 
32.20 
28.02 
46.30 
59.09 
54.55 
79.17 
35.71 
7.89 


10. 
20. 
17. 
18. 
27. 
33. 
34. 
33. 
35. 
40. 
47. 


53 

00 
65 
35 
50 
33 
78 
34 
71 
62 
83 


3 
3 

8 
44 

7 
80 
16 
18 
6 
4 
12 
19 


1 

6 

23 

11 

9 

43 

27 
10 

7 


0 

8 


A^ 


Less  than 
16  yards. 


z 


10.71 
9.09 
7.09 
29.53 
22.58 
50.96 
29.03 
40.91 
18.18 
16.67 
42.86 
50.00 


5.26 


2.94 
3.80 
19.16 
15.95 
13.05 
44.79 
48.22 
31.25 
30.43 


1 
10 


17 
5 


3 

1 

6 

16 


13 
5 
3 
5 


a 
8 


3.57 


0.96 
6.71 


10.83 
9.26 


9.09 

4.16 

21.43 

42.11 


1.45 


13.54 
8.93 
9.38 

21.74 


.1 

3 

o 


28 

33 

104 

149 

31 

157 

54 

44 

33 

24 

28 

38 


19 
20 
34 
158 
120 
69 
69 
96 
56 
32 
23 


The  average  speed  of  the  looms  engaged  in  weaving  plain  worsted 
fabrics  ranged  from  100  to  116  picks  per  minute,  414  of  the  723  looms 
making  from  100  to  105  picks  per  mmute. 

The  number  of  picks  per  incn  ranged  from  48  to  80,  the  principal 
fabrics  being  those  having  52,  56,  60,  and  62  picks  per  inch. 

Of  the  104  looms  on  which  52-pick  plain  worsteds  were  produced, 
there  were  none  that  produced  more  than  36  yards  in  one  day^  but 
there  were  10  with  a  daily  production  of  33  to  36  yards;  39  with  a 
production  of  29  to  32  yards;  and  24  with  a  production  of  25  to  28 
yards.  Altogether,  there  were  73  looms  out  of  a  total  of  104  looms, 
or  70.2  per  cent  on  which  a  production  of  25  or  more  yards  was  made 
in  a  day  of  10  hours. 

Only  35.6  per  cent  of  the  looms  on  plain  worsteds  having  56  picks 
per  inch  (53  looms  out  of  a  total  of  149  looms)  attained  a  production 
of  25  or  more  yards  per  day.  This  proportion  is  only  a  little  more  than 
one-half  of  the  production  shown  above  for  plain  worsteds  having  52 
picks  per  inch.  Tlie  marked  difference  in  production  is  accounted  for 
not  only  in  the  smaller  number  of  picks  but  also  in  the  speed  of  the 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


1065 


looms,  the  52-pick  plain  worsteds  being  woven  on  looms  running  at 
116  picks  per  minute  and  the  56-pick  fabrics  being  woven  on  looms 
making  only  103  picks  per  minute. 

The  above  table  shows  also  that  in  weaving  plain  worsteds  having 
74  or  more  picks  to  the  inch,  on  looms  making  107  picks  per  minute 
no  weaver  produced  more  than  24  vards  per  day  of  10  hours.  Of 
course  such  a  production  is  absolutely  impossible  on  looms  running 
107  picks  per  minute,  since  the  theoretical  production  on  one  loom 
running  107  picks  per  minute  and  weaving  a  faoric  having  74  picks  per 
inch  is  24.1  yards.  (74  picks  per  inch  X  36  =  2,664  picks  per  j^ard. 
Loom  making  107  picks  per  minute  will  in  one  hour  make  6,420  picks, 
and  in  10  hours  64,200  picks.  64,200-^2,664  =  24. 10  yards.)  The 
theoretical  production  is,  in  fact,  never  obtained,  for  looms  must  be 
stopped  at  least  a  few  times  a  day  to  tie-up  broken  ends  or  exchange 
empty  for  full  bobbins  in  shuttles. 

The  same  general  differences  noted  above  for  fancy  serge  and  for 
plain  serge  and  plain  worsted  are  true  also  of  the  production  of  fancy 
worsted. 

manufacturers'   comments    on    EFFICIENCY   OF    WEAVERS. 

The  following  letter  was  sent  to  manufacturers,  after  the  data  on 
the  efficiency  of  weavers  obtained  by  the  agents  of  the  board  at  the 
mills  had  been  examined: 

Dear  Sir:  You  have  in  your  mill  a  number  of  weavers  of  varying  degrees  of  effi- 
ciency on  the  same  class  of  goods  (exclusive  of  learners).  This  is  shown  bj^  the  wide 
range  of  earnings  on  the  pay  rolls  and  the  yards  produced  by  each  weaver  in  a  given 
time.  We  find  that  some  weavers  secure  the  maximum  of  possible  production  from 
the  looms  they  operate,  while  others  do  not  do  so. 

From  your  experience  and  observation,  and  that  of  the  overseer  of  your  weaving 
department,  will  you  kindly  let  me  know  to  what  extent  are  the  following  factors 
responsible  for  the  failure  of  so  many  weavers  to  obtain  maximum  production? 

1.  The  loom. 

2.  The  warp  and  filling  used. 

3.  The  weaver  himself. 

Even  under  adverse  atmospheric  conditions  and  faults  in  warp  and  filling  the  differ- 
ences in  efficiency  continue.  What  is  wrong  in  the  mental  or  physical  make-up,  or 
application  of  the  inefficient  weavers,  and  on  the  other  hand  wnat  are  the  qualifica- 
tions of  good  weavers? 

A  prompt  reply  will  greatly  oblige. 

Very  truly,  yours,  Henry  C.  Emery,  Chairman. 

The  following  are  extracts  from  letters  of  manufacturers  received 
in  reply  to  the  foregoing: 

Establishment  No.  1. — The  loom  is  seldom  out  of  order  and  is  generalljr  fixed  within  a 
verv  short  time,  an  hour  or  two  at  the  most.  The  warp  and  filling  having  been  made 
in  large  lots  in  our  worsted  mill  will  run  exactly  as  well  in  one  loom  as  in  another. 
The  weaver  varies.  Some  weavers  have  that  peculiar  knack  of  watching  their  warp 
and  putting  their  bobbins  in  the  shuttles  carefully,  and  always  alert  to  notice  any- 
thing that  is  going  wrong,  and  are  onto  the  many  tricks  of  the  trade  that  make  their 
work  go  easily.  Others  are  careless,  can  not  do  any  of  the  many  little  things  that  make 
their  work  run  easily,  and  hence  have  to  do  a  great  deal  more  stopping  than  a  good 
weaver.  At  one  time  we  had  a  young  woman  who  did  more  and  better  work  than  any 
of  the  other  men  and  women  weavers  in  the  mill.  Quite  often  we  do  not  have  the 
proper  loom  to  weave  with  the  greatest  efficiency  certain  cloths,  but  it  would  not  pay  us  to 
change,  as  possibly  the  next  orders  might  require  that  very  loom  to  weave  efficiently  on. 

Establishment  No.  2. — We  are  not  at  all  surprised  at  the  result  of  the  efficiency  test 
made  by  your  representatives  in  our  weave  room.  We  have  been  aware  of  the  fact 
for  some  time  that  some  of  our  weavers  were  not  getting  the  most  effective  work 
from  their  looms  or  making  the  pay  which  is  jwssible  to  be  made. 


JL 


1066 


REPOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOABD  OM  SCHEDULE  K. 


J[i^ty  per  cent  of  our  looma  are  of  the  Utmt  type  Knowles  looms,  and  liie  oiht^ 

mine  m  last  as  the  new  type.    The  warp  and  filling  used  is  as  good,  if  not  better  thin 
the  average  carded  woolen  mill  uses.    In  case  waSp  or  fimngdoe^mnl^  a^iuow 
ance  is  made  to  compensate  the  weav^  ^  '      allow- 

Kow  as  to  the  weavers,  the  whole  fcult  lies  witii  the  individual  Our  nrice  list 
f  12p  week."  **«^^*^^^  *^*  ^« ^^'^  ^«^ver  on  our  kind  of'^s'^Kd  e^lJ? 

The  writer  has  a  weekly  list  of  wages  made  by  weavere  on  niecework  nn^^A  in  fK« 

Most  of  our  weavers  are  either  pe^ns  too  oW  to  learn  any  new  trade  and  have  Int 
aU  ambition  and  are  perfectly  content  to  jog  along  from  dkv  to  ^wiS  no^^,,^ 
wony  for  the  future,  or  floaters,  who  drift  from  one^UU  to  S^th^r  whr^UI  »et  oS^ 
SSCtSr^^l"^""-  '"*  P«^  <«^y  wiU  see  .hem  on  tir'^'^r  ^"o^ 

Spinners  are  even  more  difficult  to  procure,  and  in  brief  labor  cnnrliri/.!.-  k«„« 

,■.^^'"'•5'*."^  Ao.  5.-Owing  to  the  construction  of  the  Enrfish  loom  it  is  aim™* 
impossible  to  have  them  run  all  alike.  There  is  more  slippage  andmore  backl^h  fh^ 
in  the  American  loom,  yet  we  prefer  it  tor  our  kind  of  wort.  \Ve  makeaT^7t^,w^ 
01  stylos  and  patterns,  with  consequenUy  moi«  or  less  frequent  ctC^  an^  whi  W^ 
changes  are  being  made  the  loom  is  standing.  The  l(«Si  fixer  kreSo^hTp  in  Im^ 
Oises  due  to  a  kck  of  interest  or  lack  ofWrd  for  tie  ri^hS  of^e  w^^erTnl 

Sl^wtni^^'L^if'Si^^^^''''^*^'^'^''*^ 

^.?i  JTH\®^°^®  "^^^  ^^^  ^}^^^  ^^^  waiting  for  warp  and  fillW  should  in  the  lon^ 
J^l'^f^'^i^"  "^^Y^"^  proportionately,  except  that  the  weav^who  h^naUi^l  an^^ 
^.^Lf!  work  ciiuick  fingers,  and  good  eyesight  is  able  to  git  ^T^f  Koubl^ 
sooner  and  enables  hua  to  produce  more  cloti  fe  ^  "ui,  m  ma  wouoies 

(3)  I^ck  of  ambition,  careless,  slovenly,  slow.    It  is  more  difficult  i«  wmvI  «„♦  fi,^ 

U^lliA'"'-^^'''^''  ^i^  vacancie«  ai^  usuall^'filled  with  le^e^^'^heZfi^ 
mZ^Jf,^^ J^™^ *•  '''"°*^  ""^  weaving  plants,  ft  is  practicable  to  iSst  onTmaxi* 
mum  production,  owmg  to  the  supply  o!  experienced  weavers  near  aThand  to^w 

^go^weaver-thatjs,^^^^^ 

M^^t*^^''^'  "^'^^  ""'"^^^  ^^"^^'■^'  ^"^  eyesight,  clean  and  methXal  &nxio^ 
to  earn  and  receivd  a  good  wage,  and  wUling  to  pay  the  price  bv  bein?  on^L  ?nh  n^? 

^l^ZP  1.^^  ^^  ^^^^  i«  ^  to  lack  Wie  of  SquaKionB 

effi^tn/l'Jr'''/''-.^--^^^^  ^  ^'^  ouTeS)^)  a^not  nearlyaa 

^cient  and  m  steady  as  they  were  some  years  apo,  and  we  do  not  geta^  good  work  m 

^S;^  -^  -^^-"^ breakinl^^S^: 

Ustabtwhtnent  No.  5.— The  loom  may  with  some  wesiv«r«  Iw.  r<<.n/v„«.-T,i„  i.v  t. 
the  ^me  make  and  speed.  For  iS^,  sh^d  A^T^^^Tn  «  o  w"f.» 
placed  on  another  loom  that  they  are  not  accustom^S^  it  tXs  ^Si^e  f^them 
™ Jf  ""^ .*v^"'  "™^  ?**•  Ag^i".  '"'itJ'  others  it  is  not  ».  It  d^peX upon  Z 
^^^-i^ri*^  I^I*™  themselva     This  applies  more  to  tho  feuLleJZnt^lZ^ 

At  thfitlmrfhl  S2^    "      spinning.    This  applies  also  to  the  filling. 
cWh  f^!„  JSL^^^  ^'^  '^'^^  weavers  using  yam  of  the  same  batch  wove  much  less 
Ss^!*^^""^^^  construction-thus  proW  that  the  fault  ^J^iSoifw^vIS 

•  J^S  ^°"^^  say  that  the  weaver  is  reepOTisible  in  9  out  of  10  inatanc«.  oith»,  f~.™ 
indifference  or  not  appljing  themselves'^  they  mighTand  Ih^mT's^^^Tr 

j:.swQiisnm€nt  j\o.  ff.— (1)  The  loom.— It  is  always  our  nlan  to  weave  eaoh  faKmV  /« 
^e  loom  best  adapted  to  its  production.  Our  prXct  howevS  l^o  divS^fi^  fl  ? 
frequently  we  are  under  the  necessity  of  weavii^  Su^Trj^^^^ 


REPORT  OP  TARIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


1067 


priate  for  the  purpose.  As  an  example  of  this:  The  week's  record  of  our  weaving 
product  carried  away  by  your  agent  shows  a  number  of  62-inch  looms  runnin*'  at  122 
picks  per  mmute  on  cloths  37  to  38  inches  wide  in  the  reed,  which  fabrics  could  be 
produced  more  economically  and  efficiently  on  looms  24  inches  narrower  and  running 
30  picks  per  mmute  higher  speed.  Weavers  producing  narrow  goods  on  slow-speeded 
wide  looms  will  show  a  less  product  if  their  yardage  is  compared  with  that  of  other 
weavers  fabncatmg  the  same  cloth  on  high-speeded  narrow  looms.  If,  however  the 
standard  of  a  w^ver's  efficiencv  is  based  solely  on  speed  of  loom,  the  attendant  of  a 
given  number  of  slow-runnmg  looms  on  a  stated  cloth  should  show  greater  efficiency 
than  the  operator  of  the  same  number  of  fast-running  looms  on  the  same  fabric  for 
the  reason  that  on  the  latter  type  of  looms  breakage  of  yams  and  stoppage  of  machines 
are  more  frequent. 

The  number  of  looms  allotted  to  a  weaver  is  an  important  factor  in  the  matter  of 
efficiency— if  the  assignment  is  too  large,  the  efficiency  will  be  correspondingly  low 

At  this  mill,  as  far  as  is  practicable,  the  various  kinds  of  cloth  to  be  woven  are  equally 
apportioned  among  all  the  weavers,  and  it  is  no  uncommon  practice  for  weavers  to 
concentrate  their  energies  upon  certain  looma  which  are  running  on  cloths  that  they 
like  to  weave  and  to  neglect  to  an  appreciable  extent  one  or  two  other  looms  which  are 
assigned  to  fabncs  which  they  regard  as  more  difficult  or  less  remunerative  to  weave 
Such  weavers  show  high  efficiency  on  the  looms  they  favor  and  the  opposite  on  the 
looms  n^lected.  *^*^ 

(2)  T/^  warp  and  JllUng  used.— The  weaving  qualities  of  the  different  warp  yarns 
vary  widely.  In  a  general  way  twofold  cotton  warps  weave  well,  but  with  single 
cotton  warp  there  is  more  breakage.  Twofold  worsted  warps  ordinarily  make  good 
weaving  yarns,  but  fine  smgle  worsted  warps  often  require  much  patience  and  skill 
to  successfully  pass  them  through  the  loom.  Single  warps  made  of  one-fourth  blood 
or  lower  stock  present  special  difficulties  to  the  weaver  by  reason  of  the  long,  shaggy 
beard  projecting  from  the  core  of  the  thread  and  causing  so  much  entanglement  and 
breakage  m  passing  through  the  lease  rods  and  harnesses. 

To  weave  well  a  worsted  warp,  particularly  if  the  yam  is  single,  must  be  carefully 
warped  and  properly  sized,  and  any  appreciable  variation  in  sizing,  either  on  the 
hard  or  soft  side,  affects  the  weaving  qualities  unfavorably. 

In  the  weaving  of  ladies'  dress  goods  difficulties  are  encountered  peculiar  to  this 
department  of  textile  manufacture.  Some  fabrics  are  of  so  sheer  a  character  as  to  ren- 
der their  production  possible  only  by  the  use  of  fine  single  yams  spun  to  their 
utmost  limit  of  fineness.  Such  threads  are  eo  deUcate  and  tender  that  only  by  the 
utmost  skill  and  care  can  they  be  successfully  manipulated  on  the  loom 

The  diatmguishmg  characteristics  of  many  popular  cloths  can  be  attained  only  at 
the  sacrifice  of  every  good  weaving  condition  and  from  the  standpoint  of  clotii  con- 
struction are  abnormities.  A  nice  prunella  will  have  150  warp  threads  to  the  inch 
and  about  60  filling  threads,  and  it  is  a  serious  problem  to  the  weaver  how  to  coax 
such  a  dense  mass  of  threads  over  the  lease  rods  and  through  the  eyes  of  the  harness 
without  breaJbng  The  antipodes  of  this  is  a  fine  grade  Henrietta  T^ith  56  fine  warp 
^reads  and  160  filling  tiireads  to  the  inch.  The  problem  here  is  to  make  the  few 
threads  of  warp  witJistand  the  severe  beating  of  the  lay,  whose  action  is  to  obscure 

•?wfP.^i^  *^T  ^®  ?^^?  ^^^  ^e  ^^«-  ^  ^^eta  that  will  find  acceptance 
with  the  trade  can  be  produced  only  by  a  merciless  depression  of  the  harnesses,  which 
Bubjecte  the  fine  warp  threads  to  a  most  unreasonable  strain.  These  are  examples  of 
the  trying  condition  imposed  upon  tiie  dress-goods  weaver  and  explain  in  some 
degree  his  failure  to  secure  what  the  casual  observer  might  expect 

(3)  The  tveaverhirmelf. —Vnder  normal  trade  conditions  there  is  a  scarcity  of  good 
weavers,  and  help  have  to  be  taken  on  who  are  ignorant  of  our  requirements  and 
thus  more  or  less  mcompetent.  Recognition  of  tiiis  fact  has  stimulated  tiie  adoption 
of  automatic  devices  on  looms  for  tiie  prevention  of  bad  work.  Many  persons  follow- 
mg  tiie  weaver  s  craft  have  missed  tiieir  calling;  nature  intended  them  for  oOier 
occupations;  tiie  deft  hand  and  alert  eye,  so  essential  to  successful  weaving,  are 
plainly  lackmg.  Thev  mean  well  but  their  work  gets  ahead  of  tiiem,  and  they  S^nd 
their  days  m  futile  efforts  to  catch  up;  before  one  fault  is  corrected  another  appears 
and  It  IS  from  such  operatives  tiiat  most  of  the  imperfect  cloth  comes 

Weavers  m  dress-goods  mills,  particularly  where  tiicre  are  automktic  looms,  run 
more  looms  tiian  m  men's  wear  mills,  and  when  tiie  latter  are  busy  tiiey  draw  heavily 
upon  dress-goods  orgamzations  for  tiieir  supply  of  weavers.  In  turn  the  dress-goods 
mills  draw  on  tiie  cotton  mills  for  recruits,  and  it  takes  several  montiis  for  a  (Stton 
weaver  to  become  a  good  worsted  weaver.    Meanwhile  efficiency  is  not  tiie  higheet 

Ihe  class  of  weavers  is  numerous  tiiat  prefers  easy,  comfortable  work  with  medium 
wages  rather  than  work  of  higher  grade  and  better  pay.  This  lack  of  exertion  and 
absence  of  ambition  on  their  part  tends  to  keep  down  efficitjucy 


1068 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOABB  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


BEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


1069 


Th©  weavers  do  not  all  poaseete  equal  skill  or  physical  power.  In  our  employ  are 
many  weavers  45  years  and  older,  who  are  still  producing  good  cloth,  but  whose 
product  IS  being  impaired  by  advancing  years.  Some  of  our  most  competent  weavers 
are  women  20  to  30  years  of  age,  who  right  in  the  stage  of  their  greatest  efficiency 
relinquish  their  occupation  and  get  married.  In  Elu^^pe  weavers  are  more  contented 
with  their  vocation  and  plan  to  remain  in  it  all  their  hves.  In  numberless  instances 
entire  families  for  generations  i>ast  have  all  been  weavers,  and  such  operatives  acquire 
a  measure  of  dexterity  and  skill  which  is  not  so  fully  met  with  in  American  mills. 
Neither  is  it  the  rule  for  young  women  to  give  up  their  mill  occupation  upon  marriage: 
mmt  of  them  continue  their  mill  employment  for  several  years  after. 

Our  best  weavers  to-day  are  French  Canadians,  both  sexes,  18  to  40  years  of  age. 
They  are  a  thrifty  class  and  seek  to  earn  all  the  money  they  can.  We  have  fewer 
Belgians  than  formerly;  these  are  good  and  skillful  workers,  but  object  to  running 
too  many  looms.  Naturally  they  have  been  working  their  way  into  men's  wear  mills. 
Germans  are  good  weavers,  but  of  these  we  have  now  scarcely  any.  Not  many 
Americans  are  to  be  found  weaving  in  our  mills:  but  of  Scotch,  Irish,  and  English 
we  have  a  strong  representation  as  respects  number.  Among  our  good  weavers  are 
a  few  Portuguese,  mostly  women;  we  have  also  taken  on  a  number  of  Polish  women 
who  have  recently  learned  to  weave  and  who  doubtless  will  attain  a  fair  degree  of 
competency  when  they  have  become  experienced. 

Establishment  No.  7.— The  question  of  degree  of  efficiency  in  our  weavers  has  been 
a  matter  that  has  given  us  a  great  deal  of  annoyance  and  study.  If  we  could  supply 
our  mill  with  weavers  equal  to  the  best  which  we  have  it  would  make  a  very  decided 
difference  in  the  cost  of  our  production.  This,  however,  is  impossible.  The  best 
weavers  we  have,  learned  to  weave  in  oiu-  mill  and  have  been  with  us  in  some  coses 
nearly  25  years.  I  have  in  mind  three  of  the  women  weavers  who  have  been  work- 
ing for  us  steadily  for  22,  23,  and  24  years,  respectively.  They  are  among  our  most 
efficient  producers. 

In  regard  to  the  causes  of  the  difference  under  the  headings  designated  we  should 

put  It  as  follows: 

(1)  Theloom.— Ten  of  oiur  looms  are  equippeil  with  direct-connected  motor  drives. 
'Oie  roeed  under  this  method  of  driving  is  absolutely  steatly  and  uniform,  and  it  is 
therefore,  possible  to  run  the  loom  at  a  slightly  higher  speed  than  on  the  belt-driven 
looms.  The  absolutely  steady  speed  abo  results  in  the  work  coming  somewhat  bet- 
ter. These  looms  are  run  at  5  to  7  per  ceht  higher  speed  than  our  belt-driven  looms. 
The  20  remainincf  looms  are  belt  driven  and  due  to  the  causes  outlined  above  give  a 
elightly  less  production. 

.  (2)  Warp  and  filling  used.—Voot  warp  and  filling  of  course  result  in  a  great  reduction 
in  efiiciency  of  the  loom,  but  this  has  a  very  gmall  bearing  in  our  case.  Our  work 
being  all  on  high-grade  goods,  we  do  not  have  the  troubles  that  exist  where  low-grade 
ehoddymixtureg  are  used. 

(3)  Weaver  himself.— Thh  m  a  large  factor  of  difference  in  the  efficiency  of  the  differ- 
ent weavers.  The  oualities  that  make  up  a  first-class  weaver  are  general  intolligence 
coupled  with  a  cool  head  and  good  eyesight,  and  the  power  of  concentration  and  appli- 
cation. The  weaver  who  is  interested  in  his  work,  is  nimble  fingered,  and  uses  hia 
brain  to  save  his  hands,  will  far  outstrip  the  sluggish,  indifferent,  clumsy  weaver. 
\\e  have  great  difficulty  m  obtaining  efficient  weavers  here.  The  weavers  who  have 
learned  the  trade  in  our  own  mill,  and  who  have  been  with  us  for  a  greater  or  less  num- 
ber of  years  are  far  superior  to  the  weavers  we  obtain  from  out  of  town.  We  even  find 
that  weavers  coming  from  families,  where  their  father  or  mother  were  mill  hands 
before  them,  take  to  the  work  more  readily  and  become  more  efficient  help  than  those 
coming  from  families  not  familiar  with  the  textile  business. 

Estahlisknmht  No.  *.— First.  It  is  not  because  of  tlie  loom,  as  we  must  necessarily 
keep  our  loom  equipment  up  to  a  high  state  of  efficiency  as  f  ar  aa  mechanical  workini 
goes.  ^ 

Second.  It  is  very,  very  seldom  that  the  cause  is  in  the  warp  or  filling  used,  although 
^» /^'*:ry  exceptional  cases  there  will  l>e,  in  spite  of  the  utmost  precaution,  one  lot  of 
Boft  filling  or  a  lot  of  soft  warp  yam  because  the  same  grade  of  wool  is  not  always  of  the 
same  strength. 

Third.  It  is  almost  always  the  weaver  himself  who  is  at  fault,  as  for  instance,  some 
weavers  will  stand  at  the  loom  and  keep  it  in  operation  from  the  minute  the  speed 
utarts  until  it  stops,  while  another  weaver  will  stop  his  loom  for  3  or  5  or  10  minutea 
to  go  to  another  part  of  the  room  and  talk  to  some  friend,  or  who  will  stop  his  loom  10 
or  15  minutes  before  quitting  time  to  clean  up. 

Again,  two  weavers  may  run  their  looms  every  minute  the  speed  operates  it  and  one 
will  produce  more  yardage  in  the  same  length  of  time  than  the  other,  due  to  the  higher 
efficiency  of  the  first  man,  who  thinks  quicker,  act^  quicker,  and  ReneiaUy  produce© 
the  best  cloth.  *^ 


Another  instance,  where  a  weaver  would  complain  to  his  boss  that  a  warp  on  his 
loom  would  not  run  right,  the  filling  was  not  right  and  he  could  not  produce  gcxxi  cloth 
from  it,  yet  another  man  placed  on  the  same  loom  with  the  same  warp  and  filling,  will 
produce  perfectly  merchantable  cloth  and  produce  it  faster  than  the  man  who  com- 
plained of  it. 

Of  course,  there  always  h  and  always  will  be  in  a  fancy  mill  some  variation  in  weav- 
ers' wages,  due  not  to  the  weaver  himself  altogether  but  to  the  fact  that  it  is  impos- 
sible to  balance  the  fancy  mill  so  as  to  keep  every  loom  filled  up  with  warp  or,  even 
if  the  warp  is  in,  to  have' filling  ready  for  everv  loom  at  all  times,  and  occasionally  a 
weaver  has  to  wait  a  half  hour  or  an  hour  or  a  half  day  for  a  lot  of  filling  to  come  through 
for  his  warp. 

Our  fabrics  are  made  entirely  of  new  original  clips  of  wool  with  the  staple  in,  one 
fabric  being  made  of  a  high  tliree-eighths  blood  quality  and  the  other  fabric  of  fine 
wool,  no  shoddy  or  other  adulteration  being  used,  the  goods  not  even  carrying  their 
own  waste.  Consequently,  we  produce  a  very  strong  well-made  yarn  and  the  cloth 
weaves  very  much  better  and  faster  than  in  a  mill  where  the  yarns  carry  a  percentage 
of  waste  or  shoddy.  Therefore,  we  consider  the  following  are  the  qualincations  neces- 
sary for  the  production  of  good  cloth: 

First,  the  mechanical  condition  of  all  parts  of  the  loom. 

Second,  the  stock  used,  and. 

Third,  the  weaver  hiniseH;  but  granting  these  three  conditions  as  being  theoretically 
perfect,  on  an  average,  looms  will  not  produce  beyond  75  per  cent  of  their  efficiency, 
although  this  depends  very  largely  upon  the  weaver  himself. 

The  qualifications  we  consider  necessary  to  make  a  good  weaver  are,  first,  he  must 
understand  weaving;  second,  he  must  be  ambitious  to  produce  perfect  cloth  and  the 
maximum  yardage,  and  to  produce  perfect  cloth,  he  must  l^e  c[uick  of  eye  and  nimble 
with  his  fingers,  so  that  he  can  detect  quickly  a  broken  thread  m  the  warp  or  a  raispick, 
60  that  he  can  stop  his  machine  quickly,  and  must  have  the  judgment  which  tells  him 
whether,  when  an  imperfection  occurs  in  the  cloth  and  he  has  woven  a  little  beyond 
this  imperfection,  it  is  better  to  pull  out  the  filling  back  to  the  imperfection  or  to  mark 
it  and  so  on  with  his  weaving. 

While  the  records  you  took  in  our  mill  were  at  a  time  when  we  were  slack  in  work 
and  consequently  not  really  representative  of  the  average  conditions,  we  find  that 
when  we  are  crowded  with  work  and  therefore  going  in  the  best  possible  manner, 
that  some  weavers  will  make  $15  to  $17  a  week,  week  m  and  week  out,  while  perhaps 
on  identically  the  same  kind  of  work,  others  will  make  only  $11  to  $13,  and  eo  far 
as  we  have  been  able  to  find  out,  the  difference  is  caused  entirely  by;  the  weaver  him- 
self; one  v/ill  waste  absolutely  not  a  minute,  keeping  his  loom  running  every  minute 
he  can,  while  the  other  will  waste  his  time  away  and  will  not  be  as  active  or  as  quick 
in  hia  work. 

There  is  still  another  factor  which  enters  somewhat  into  this  question  and  that  is 
the  favoritism  shown  by  the  overseer: 

While  we  endeavor  to  have  an  overseer  treat  each  and  every  weaver  alike,  it  is 
human  nature  that  each  overseer  will  have  a  few  favorites  in  the  mill  and  a  few  whom 
he  dislikes,  and  if  one  pattern  is  a  little  harder  to  weave  than  another  or  he  should  get 
a  bad  lot  of  filling  through,  he  will  invariably  give  the  harder  pattern  or  the  bad  lot 
of  filling  to  a  weaver  whom  he  dislikes. 

However,  we  consider  this  is  almost  a  negligible  reason  to  be  used  in  the  cause  of 
the  difference  of  the  earning  power  of  the  weavers. 

In  conclusion,  we  find  the  same  difference  in  efficiency  of  spinners,  even  on  the 
same  class  of  work  and  largely  for  the  same  reasons,  and  so  far  as  our  knowledge  goes 
we  think  there  is  the  same  difference  of  efficiency  in  any  other  line  of  industry  or 
even  in  clerical  help  in  offices. 

Establishment  No.  9. — ^All  our  looms  are  new,  of  the  best  and  latest  patterns  obtain- 
able in  each  country,  and  are  set  up  so  carefully  as  to  insure  perfect  operation. 
You  can  easily  see  that  it  is  in  our  own  interest  to  do  everything  in  our  power  to 
attain  a  maximum  of  production.  Failure  in  this  respect,  so  far  as  our  mill  is  con- 
cerned, lies  entirely  with  the  weaver  himself. 

With  regard  to  the  warn  and  filling  used,  we  can  say  that  this  is  spun  in  our  own 
spinning  mills  and  is  the  bestpossible  yam  that  could  be  used.  There  is,  therefore, 
no  trouble  in  this  respect.  This  is  clearly  shown  by  the  fact  that  in  many  cases 
weavers  who  attain  the  maximum  of  efficiency  use  yam  from  the  same  spinning  lot 
as  those  who  are  least  efficient. 

In  our  mill  only  about  25  per  cent  of  the  weavers  can  be  considered  good. 

As  to  the  qualities  of  good  weavers,  it  is  hard  to  describe  them.  The  essential 
qualities  are  alertness  and  dexterity,  and  as  the  work  is  not  heavy,  requiring  no  great 
physical  strength,  women  are  often  as  good  weavers  as  men,  and  sometimes  better. 
Above  aU  things,  however,  a  weaver  must  have  years  of  training  in  weaving  all  the 


1070 


EEPOBT  OF  TAEIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


f; 


different  kmda  of  fabnc8  before  he  or  she  can  really  be  called  a  good  weaver.  Under 
the  hitherto  prevalent  violent  fluctuaUous  in  the  industry  8uc:h  fife-long  training  haa 
only  been  possible  in  very  exceptional  caeea  and  in  such  places  where  local  conditions 
have  been  more  like  those  in  Europe.  Thia  has  again  l>een  brought  to  our  special 
notice  during  the  past  summer.  \^len  the  mill  was  running  part  time,  many  of  our 
best  and  most  energetic  and  ambitious  workers,  whom  we  had  with  great  trouble 
educated  for  our  special  kind  of  work  and  who  were  dissatisfied  at  not  making  full 
wages,  sought  other  industries.  Now,  when  we  are  running  full  time  again  we  find 
we  have  only  the  poorer  help  and  are  ahnost  in  as  bad  a  position  as  when  we  first 
started.  It  is  unposeible  to  repeat  too  often  the  great  advantage  possessed  by  the 
older  European  centers  of  the  woolen  and  worsted  industry.  Tht  operath^  in  those 
towns,  even  if  they  earn  less  than  they  might  do  elsewhere,  will  not  break  up  their 
associations  and  move  away  as  they  do  here.  They  are  attached  to  their  work  and  to 
their  homes.  Here  the  operatives  have  scarcely  time  to  become  domiciled  before 
business  IS  subjected  to  a  violent  setback  and  they  are  forced  to  seek  work  in  other 
towns.    The  disadvantages  of  aU  this  for  mill  owners  are  twofold.  First,  we  thereby 

In'toTl    i^^P-®'  ^^  secondly,  upon  the  resumption  of  activity  we  have  to  break 
in  new  people  again.  ^  j  **«. 

Esiablishment  No.  10.— We  are  glad  to  receive  your  letter  because  it  shows  that 
?w  fZ  ^^«^^"g*\iy  going  into  this  thing  in  a  businesslike  way;  and  I  desire  to  state 
tnat  me  reasons  that  we  do  not  get  an  average  production  from  all  of  our  looms  ia  not 
on  account  of  the  loom,  not  on  account  of  the  warp  or  filUng,  but  on  account  of  the 
weaver,  her  or  himself.  ^  ^'  ^^-uuut  oi  uie 

We  have  such  a  large  fluctuation  of  weavers  who  are  constantly  coming  and  going 
that  we  are  practically  teaching  weavers  all  the  time,  and  up  to  the  end^f  last  week 
from  the  first  of  this  year  our  records  show  that  784  weavers  came  and  were  taught 
staved  less  than  two  months,  and  disappeared.    Then,  of  course,  this  same  formula 
had  to  be  gone  over  again.  *"*ux» 

Weaving  is  much  more  difficult  than  the  average  person  who  comes  from  the  farms 
and  rural  districts,  not  only  in  this  country  but  from  foreign  countries,  anticioates- 
and  the  average  that  makes  good  in  1  in  12.  ^       ' 

As  you  will  see  by  the  names  of  all  our  employees  they  are  very  laigely  made  ud  of 
foreigners,  and  to  this  we  attribute  the  constant  coming  and  going,  as  they  come  to 
ttiis  country  from  stories  they  have  been  told  that  money  is  easy  to  make  in  America 
Ihere  also  are  a  ^eat  many  positions  open  for  them  in  which  as  much  money  can  be 
eanied  without  the  same  amount  of  brains  or  skill  being  necessary 

Establuhment  No.  11.— In  general  terms  it  should  be  noteti  that  there  is  intrinsi- 
eaUy  a  difference  inweaving  possibiHties  between  essentially  different  fabrics  and 
esseutiallv  different  kinds  of  looms.  That  is,  it  would  be  quite  improper  to  judcre 
a  weaver  s  efficiency  m  comparing  a  fabric  made  of  a  single  worsted  y^n  with  one 
made  of  a  single  cotton  varn,  or  with  any  two-ply,  whether  cotton  or  worsted  So 
far  as  materials  go  in  broad  terms,  it  might  be  said  that  a  two-ply  cotton  warp  is 
probably  the  bestof  weaving  materials.  Next  to  this  would  come  the  two-ply  woisted 
warp,  or,  perhaps,  even  the  single  cotton  warp,  under  certain  circumstances.  But 
a  single  worsted  warp  is  m  a  class  by  itself.  Of  course,  there  is  a  possibility  of  some 
vanatipn  between  ^e  warp  or  the  fillings  in  goods  of  identicaUy  the  same  makes, 
but  this  difference  in  a  well-run  room  should  not  be  very  great.  Moreover,  where 
tiie  atmospheric  conditions  are  kept  fairly  uniform  there  should  not  be  great  variations 

uUt/  10  UllS. 

As  regards  the  loom  there  is,  of  course,  a  very  material  dijfference  in  possible  pro- 
duction from  an  automaticaUy  operating  loom  and  one  which  is  not  automatic,  and 
between  a  fancy  head,  either  Jacquard  or  Dobby,  and  a  plain  loom.  This  difference 
would  show  up  in  any  relationship  which  may  be  attempted  between  the  classes  of 
labrics  8o_ woven,  and  would  require  very  careful  study  in  each  individual  case  to  give 
a  proper  interpretation  to  the  differences  which  might  be  found 

These  tests  which  have  been  exhibited  having  been  made  on  warps  which  are  many 
of  tHem  now  out  of  the  looms,  we  can  not,  of  course,  go  back  and  study  the  question  of 
any  variations  for  the  same  class  of  material  aa  such,  but  so  far  as  we  are  aware  there 
was  no  such  great  variation  between  nominally  the  same  material  as  used  by  different 
weavers,  and  yet  there  is  m  some  instances  at  least  a  very  marked  difference  between 
the  results  obtamed  on  the  same  looms,  on  the  same  fabrics,  by  different  weavers. 
Unquestionably,  some  of  this  is  due  to  the  intrinsically  different  capacities  of  weavers. 
but  m  other  cases  tlM>  difference  in  efficiency  should  be  regarded  only  as  temporary 
and  for  this  reason:  That  during  the  last  summer,  when  we  had  so  little  workior  our 
weave  rooms  to  dc,  m  order  to  retain  our  oldest  weavers  we  shut  down  our  No  1  weave 
room  entu-eiy  and  transferred  the  weavers  into  our  No.  2  weave  room,  where  they  would 
be  running  m  many  instances  au  entirely  different  class  of  looms  to  what  they  had  been 


BEPOET  OF  TARIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K* 


1071 


nsed  to.  This  indeed  is  a  large  factor  in  the  efficiency  of  the  American  weavers,  in 
that  they  are  liable  to  pass  from  one  mifl  to  another  and  obtain  work  which  is  entirely 
different  from  that  they  have  been  accustomed  to  previously.  This  indeed  is  a  cause 
of  lack  of  efficiency  with  all  classes  of  skilled  help  in  the  textile  trade,  particularly 
in  a  city  like ,  where  there  is  a  great  variety  of  such  textile  products  pro- 
duced and  much  changmg  about  of  help.  This  particular  phenomenon  is  directly 
illustrated  by  the  production  of  one  quality  whose  condition  we  have  carefully  looked 
up.  The  quality  in  question  is  a  Panama  mixture — warp  and  filling  of  2/40  worsted — 
a  fabric  which  with  a  weaver  who  fully  understands  the  work  weaves  well,  but  which 
requires  expert  care  which  can  only  be  obtained  by  practice.  We  have  taken  the  looms 
which  were  on  this  quality  and  arranged  them  in  four  groups,  the  grouping  being 
based  upon  the  hours  running  and  the  product  per  hour. 

Now,  it  should  be  noted  that  on  group  1  the  weavers  were  all  old  experienced  weavers 
either  on  this  indentical  type  of  loom  or  one  somewhat  similar.  On  group  No.  2  the 
weavers  were  inexperienced  on  these  particular  looms  but  had  had  some  experience  on 
eomewhat  similar  classes  of  work.  Hence  results  better  than  in  groups  3  or  4,  where 
there  had  been  no  such  similarity  of  experience.  All  of  the  weavers  in  groups  2,  3, 
and  4,  with  one  or  two  exceptions  only,  had  been  transferred  from  our  No.  1  weave 
room  or  were  either  new  weavers  or  spare  weavers.  The  exceptions  referred  to  we 
have  recognized  as  being  naturally  less  efficient  weavers  than  the  average.  "^ 

W^e  have  looked  over  the  earnings  of  each  of  these  groups  since  the  time  that  this 
was  taken,  and  with  the  few  executions  above  noted  we  think  there  are  indications 
of  considerable  improvement,  but  this  is  hard  to  determine  precisely  because  the 
weaver  is  not  paid  for  a  cut  imtil  he  gets  it  off  the  loom,  and  this  makes  the  earnings 
from  one  week  to  another  irregular.  .«•*»•         •      w,.    ^.^-.^-^ .— ^...-.  ^ 

W'e  do  not  attempt  to  judge  of  the  capacity  of  a  weaver  for  a  given  work,  unless  she 
is  manifestly  ill  adapted,  "until  she  has  had  an  opportunity  to  demonstrate  what  she 
can  really  ao.  In  our  mill  there  is  probably  a  greater  variety  of  fabrics  and  classy 
of  looms  than  would  be  generally  found  even  in  this  country,  and  we  suspect  would 
be  hardly  comparable  in  this  respect  to  foreign  weave  rooms.  Speaking  broadly 
again,  the  elliciency  of  the  weaver  depends  not  only  on  personal  adaptation  but  on  a 
degree  of  experience  on  the  particular  work  in  hand.  We  might  further  state  that 
except  for  very  heavy  work  it  has  been  our  experience  that  a  woman  will  get  a  better 
product  than  a  man,  but  when  it  comes  to  very  heavy  work,  such  as  men's  wear  mills 
would  be  likely  to  have,  we  can  well  understand  that  they  would  prefer  men  weavers- 
It  is  doubtful  if  a  woman  could  stand  the  strain  for  such  heavy  work.  It  then  becomes 
a  question  of  physical  endurance  rather  than  skill  of  fingers. 


Product  vnemorandum  on  four  groups  of  looms  on  same  fabric. 


Group  1: 

6  Looms 
Group  2: 

5  Looms 
Groups: 

SLooms 
Group  4: 

6  Tiooms 


Average 
hours  run. 


54.7 
53.7 
52.9 
20.9 


Averaso 

yards  per 

lioor. 


3.00 
2.62 
1.85 
1.83 


Establiskmeiit  No.  12. — This  variation  ia  not  due  to  years  of  experience  which  some 
hands  may  have  in  comparison  with  others,  but  is  due  largely  to  the  indivdduals 
themselves.  We  do  not  tnink  that  there  are  many  mills  equipped  with  machinery 
differing  less  than  what  our  own  does,  as  practically  all  our  looms  are  alike — that  is  to 
say,  where  the  same  kind  of  work  is  in  operation.  To  make  this  perfectly  clear  tq  you, 
will  say  that  our  report  bears  out  the  fact  that  we  have  a  number  of  worsted  looms,  all 
of  which  are^  alike,  and  which  are  employed  for  worsted  work  only.  On  the  other 
hand  a  certain  class  of  woolen  work  is  run  on  similar  looms,  while  in  a  large  measure 
our  various  styles  of  woolen  work  are  made  on  practically  the  same  looms  and  under 
the  same  conditions. 

Would  also  advise  that  the  warp  and  filling  used  for  the  same  kinds  of  work  are  the 
same  for  all  weavers. 


1072 


EEPOBT  OP  TAMFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


EEPOBT  OF  TABIFF  BOAED  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


1073 


fP 


With  this  explanation  you  will  pec  that  the  differoncos  are  practically  due  to  the 
individual  weavers  themselves,  and  from  personal  observations  dating  back  25  or  30 
years  we  have  never  found  that  it  differed  materially,  and  that  on  the  same  kinds  or 
claasea  of  work  and  under  exactly  the  same  conditions,  there  are  variations  amounting 
to  probably  25  |>er  cent  in  ilie  productive  capacity  of  weavers. 

As  to  what  we  consider  the  necessary  quililications  of  a  good  weaver  we  will  say 
that  we  think  they  are  about  the  same  as  the  necessary  qualifications  in  any  other 
line  or  branch  of  work,  and  that  the  varying  d^ees  of  efficiency  vary  in  about  the 
flame  proportion  to  the  varying  degrees  of  intelligence  that  you  find  in  the  human 
family. 

A  good  weaver  generally  has  good  common  sense  to  start  with,  and  an  alert  disposi- 
tion which  keeps  them  ever  on  the  watch,  enabling  them  to  see  a  defect  befora  a 
serious  loss  of  time  results.  Their  physical  condition  is  another  important  factor,  as 
a  short  or  stout  person  does  not  usually  make  as  expert  a  weaver  as  a  more  normal 
build  would  be.  Good  eyesight  is  another  very  important  matter.  A  neat  and  tidy 
disposition  is  also  another  foctor,  eo  that  you  wiU  see  by  the  above  that  there  are  many 
conditions  upon  which  depend  the  efficiency  of  weavers.  4 

Establishment  No.  i^.— (i)  Our  looms  are  of  two  kinds,  and  the  only  difference  in 
these  that  would  affect  production  is' that  the  picks  per  minute  on  the  two  kinds  are 
elightly  different,  as  shown  on  the  test  tickets  supplied  by  your  representatives.         i 

(2)  Our  waip  and  filling  are  of  the  best  woolen  yam,  and  we  can  not  say  that  these 
would  have  any  appreciable  effect  in  increasing  or  diminishing  the  output.  i\ 

(3)  It  is,  in  our  opinion,  in  the  weaver  himself  wherein  Ues  his  efhciency.  The 
men  weavera  are  as  a  rule  more  efficient  than  the  women.  Some  weavers  pay  more 
close  attention  to  their  work  than  others;  some  again  are  quicker  at  changing  the 
shuttles  when  the  filling  runs  out.  It  lies  with  the  man  or  woman  whether  he  or  she 
can  get  the  maximum  production  from  the  loom;  to  do  this  it  is  obvious  that  there 
must  be  as  few  and  as  short  stoppages  of  the  loom  as  possible.  i 

Establishment  No.  14. — Of  course  we  would  expect  more  or  less  variation  in  the 
production  of  different  weavers.  This  is  accounted  for,  partially,  in  the  loom,  which 
IS,  however,  a  Bmall  percentage.  The  particular  fabric  tliat  this  weaver  might  ha\'e, 
for  a  short  period,  would  also  have  effect;  although,  covering  a  period  of  six  months, 
this  would  be  eliminated.  g 

We  consider  the  largest  part  of  this  difference  is  due  to  the  weaver  himself,  as  there 
Me  certain  people  who  have  a  natural  ability  for  this  kind  of  work,  and  others,  while 
they  may  work  as  hard,  do  not  seem  able  to  get  the  same  results.  In  the  past  5  or  10 
years  it  has  been  rather  difi&cult  to  get  many  first-class  weavers.  We  nave  been 
obliged  to  take  many  weavers  who  were  not  proficient,  nor  ever  would  be. 

Establishment  No.  15.— We  do  not  know  that  the  difference  in  the  efliciency  of 
weavers  is  any  greater  than  the  difference  between  individuals  in  any  occupation. 
It  is,  of  course,  lajgely  a  guess,  but  in  our  weave  room  we  would  estimate  that  of  the 
factors  you  mention  perhaps  5  per  cent  of  the  difference  in  efficiency  is  due  to  dif- 
ferences in  the  looms,  25  per  cent  to  difference  in  yams,  and  fully  75  per  cent  to  the 
weaver  himself.  We  have  selected  six  examples  from  the  loom  cards,  illustrating  the 
difference  in  weavers  on  the  same  work.  Looms  42  and  46  are  identical  in  pattern 
and  i^e,  the  weavera  both  female,  the  hours  practically  the  same,  and  the  goods 
identical.  One  weaver  wove  108  yards  in  34J  hours,  and  the  other  90|  yards  in  34 
hours. 

Looms  49  and  50  are  adjacent  and  identical,  the  weavera  working  in  the  same  alley. 
The  card  of  loom  49  gives  the  weight  of  the  goods  as  16.5,  but  this  is  a  mistake,  as  it 
should  be  14.5,  the  same  as  loom  50.  These  cards  are  therefore  absolutely  identical 
so  far  as  conditions  are  concerned,  yet  weaver  49  wove  121  yards  in  the  same  time  as 
No,  50  was  working  on  109  y^ards. 

Looms  14  and  15  are  also  identical  and  the  goods  the  same  range,  though  different 
styles.  Different  colored  yams  are  different  in  strength,  so,  in  these  cases  there 
might  possibly  be  a  difference  in  quality  to  account  for  part  of  the  difference  in 
in  production  (109|  yards  in  34  houre  against  77^  yards  in  34 J  hours).  As  a  matter 
of  fact,  however,  there  can  have  been  but  little  difference  between  the  two  styles, 
and  the  ^o^ater  part  of  the  25  per  cent  difference  in  efficiency  la  undoubtedly  due 
to  the  differences  in  the  weavera. 

Now,  we  are  well  acquainted  with  the  six  weavera  mentioned  above  and  the  results 
are  precisely  what  we  would  expect,  and  would  be  very  similar  in  the  course  of  a  year's 
work.  The  differences  were  not  due  to  accidental  or  unusual  causes,  but  to  differ- 
ences in  the  temperament  of  the  weavera. 

As  to  what  is  wrong  with  the  inefficient  weavera,  it  is  hard  to  say  definitely.  It 
is  not  necessarily  due  to  laziness  nor  anything  discreditable  to  the  weaver.  For 
instance,  one  of  the  inefficient  weavers  mentioned  above  ia  a  woman  of  excellent 


character,  conscientious  to  a  marked  degree,  of  German  parents,  ambitious,  and 
hard  working.  These  very  good  qualities  seem  to  make  her  a  comparatively  poor 
weaver.  She  is  too  careful.  The  one  who  is  compared  with  her  is  no  more  honest 
or  faithful,  but  will  turn  off  more  and  better  work.  The  good  weaver  is  one  who,  in 
the  phrase  of  the  weave  room  "keeps  his  belt  on  the  tight  pulley";  in  other  words, 
keeps  his  loom  running.  He  will,  when  possible,  change  shuttles  without  stopping 
the  loom.  Some  weavera  are  not  able  to  learn  to  do  this  successfully.  If  he  finds 
it  necessary  to  stop  the  loom  to  put  in  a  broken  thread,  he  will  do  only  what  is 
absolutely  necessary,  then  start  his  loom,  and  complete  the  work  while  it  is  running. 
The  other  weaver  will  complete  the  work  before  starting  the  loom,  making  a  few 
seconds'  difference.  It  is  not  a  question  of  quick  motions.  One  of  the  best  weavera 
we  have  is  a  man  of  very  slow,  almost  sluggish,  motions.  One  of  the  poorest  we  ever 
had  was  a  nervous,  quick-motioned  man.  The  first  made  every  move  count;  the 
second  made  three  unnecessary  moves  to  one  that  was  useful.  We  believe  the  same 
types  will  be  foimd  anywhere  in  any  line  of  work. 

In  our  opinion,  what  will  make  a  good  weaver  will  make  a  good  workman  in  almost 
any  line,  especially  mechanical.  The  good  weaver  has  a  ** mechanical  sense,"  which 
is  lacking  in  a  poor  one.  No  doubt  this  is  one  reason  why  men  are  usually  more  effi- 
cient in  weaving  than  women,  who  usually  lack  the  ''instinct  for  machinery,"  if  it 
may  be  so  called.  A  proof  of  this  opinion  is  found  in  the  fact  that  weavera  as  a  class 
are  less  efficient  now  than  they  were  10  years  ago.  This  is  certainly  true  in  our 
plant  and,  we  believe,  in  the  industry  generally.  The  reason  for  this  is  that  the 
best  weavera  go  into  some  other  line  of  industry  where  the  pay  is  better.  Many  of 
our  ** stars"  of  past  years  went  into  the  wire-fence  industry.  Many  more,  during  the 
past  three  or  four  years,  have  gone  into  the  automobile  industry,  of  which  the  center 
for  the  country  is  only  50  miles  from  us.  Some  of  our  weavera  who  have  gone  into 
this  business  have  made  good  and  are  now  drawing  several  times  as  much  as  they 
could  ever  have  hoped  for  in  wea\ing. 

We  trust  we  have  answered  your  questions  satisfactorily.  It  is  hard  to  do  so  briefly, 
and  perhaps  the  best  way  to  put  it  would  be  to  say  that  a  weaver  needs  the  usual 
good  qualities,  ambition,  energy,  etc.,  and,  in  addition,  a  mechanical  turn  of  mind, 
and  the  ability  to  make  every  move  count.  The  new  "scientific  management" 
would  teach  the  latter  point  to  all  weavera;  but  we  are  confident  that  no  amount  of 
teaching  would  make  one  of  our  poor  weavera  equal  to  one  of  the  best,  though  it 
would  doubtless  improve  him.     It  is  partly  temperament. 

It  is  invariably  true  that  the  weavera  who  turn  off  the  most  work  in  a  given  time 
also  turn  off  the  best  work.  The  extremely  slow  and  careful  weavera  are  the  ones 
who  turn  out  the  poor  goods.  Of  couree,  in  this  statement  we  are  referring  only  to 
the  honest  workman,  not  to  those  who  have  no  pride  in  their  work  and  run  it  out  as 
fast  as  they  can,  regardless  of  results. 

EstahlisKment  No.  16. — My  experience  has  been  that  what  applies  to  almost  any 
class  of  workmen  running  machinery  applies  to  weavera — that  to  be  a  firet-class  weaver 
and  get  the  maximum  production  from  his  loom  he  must  firat  have  interest  in  his 
work  and  ambition  to  get  the  best  possible  out  of  his  loom.  And,  again,  experi- 
ence counts  very  much.  As  to  the  failure  of  so  many  weavera  to  obtain  the  maximum 
production,  95  per  cent  is  owing  to  the  weaver;  2  per  cent  is  owing  to  the  loom  con- 
ditions; 3  per  cent  is  owing  to  the  warp  and  filling. 

Establishment  No.  17. — Relative  to  the  varjong  degrees  of  efficiency  of  weavera  on 
the  same  class  of  goods,  would  say  the  factor  responsible  for  this  variation  is  chiefly 
the  individual  not  being  able  to  adapt  himself  to  the  varying  grades  of  work.  For 
instance,  a  weaver  may  be  a  skilled  operative  on  a  fine  class  of  work,  yet  when  put 
upon  a  coarse  fabric  is  unable  to  keep  the  loom  running. 

The  best  weavera  are  those  of  a  nervous  temperament,  as  they  are  quick  of  action 
in  mind  and  in  body,  whereas  a  peraon  of  phlegmatic  temperament  is  too  slow  in 
thought  and  in  action,  therefore  can  not  produce  the  same  amoimt  of  work  in  a 
given  time.  We  have  a  concrete  example  of  this  here  at  our  mill  in  the  case  of  two 
sistere,  one  a  girl  of  21  yeara  of  age  and  the  other  who  is  24  yeara.  Both  are  good 
weavera,  yet  the  firat  will  produce  the  maximum  efficiency  while  the  other  is  only 
an  average  weaver. 

Of  great  importance  in  this  consideration  is  the  fact  that  a  large  part  of  our  weavera 
are  drawn  from  the  agricultural  districts  of  Europe.  They  had  attained  their  majority 
before  having  taken  up  the  work  as  weavera,  which  trade  they  acquired  in  this  country. 
These  people  do  not  make  as  good  weavera  as  a  boy  or  ^rl  who  has  started  to  work  on 
leaving  school,  say  at  the  age  of  14  yeara,  and  working  m  the  mill  for  a  year  or  two  in 
some  occupation  like  spooling,  where  they  learn  to  be  quick  of  action. 

The  variation  in  strength  of  warp  and  filling  yarns  m  the  same  grade  of  cloth  does 
not  materially  affect  the  efficiency,  it  being  very  slight.    Likewise,  the  factor  of  loom 


1074 


BXPOfiT  OF  TARIFF  BOABB  OM  SCHEDtJI.E  K. 


EEPORT  OF   TARIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


1075 


Iweakage  ie  also^  of  negligible  quantity,  aa  looms  ranning  on  the  same  grade  of  goods 
will  run  approjdniately  the  same  lea<^tli  of  time  before  breakage  occurs. 

Establishment  No.  IS. — We  note  your  remarks  about  the  number  of  weaveiB  in  our 
mill  of  var>  ing  degreea  of  efficiency  on  the  same  claas  of  goods.  We  presume  you 
mean  by  the  eante  claas  of  gooda,  goods  with  the  same  styio  number,  m  we  do  not 
think  it  would  b©  iair  to  make  this  compariBon  on  the  numl>er  of  picks  per  inch,  as 
a  great  many  styles  having  the  same  number  of  picks  per  inch  have  a  different  weave 
and  »ko  a  different  make-up  in  the  texture,  which  would  have  more  or  less  influence 
on  &e  number  of  yaids  turned  off  of  each  loom. 

We  note  from  the  record  cards  which  your  representative  had  at  our  mill  that  there 
is  more  or  iem  diffeienoe  in  the  number  of  yams  turned  off  in  a  given  time  on  exactly 
the  same  style  of  goods.  By  style  we  mean  our  atyle  number.  We  do  not  think  that 
this  is  due  to  any  ^ult  of  the  loom,  as  our  looms  are  kept  in  the  ver>'  best  possible  condi- 
tion; nor  do  we  think  it  is  due  to  the  warp  and  filling  used,  as  we  buy  only  the  very 
best  j^ara  and  examine  same  very  carefully  before  using  it.  We  think'the  greater  pro- 
portion of  thifl  ia  by  far  due  to  the  weaver  himself.  Ahnoet  anyone  of  average  intelli- 
gence can  become  a  good  weaver  and  we  think  the  qualifications  necesBary  are  a  sober, 
industrious  man,  and  one  who  will  give  close  application  to  his  work. 

EstabUAmml  No.  l$.—AsmveTmg  your  inquiry  as  to  what  extent  the  following  factos 
are  responsible  lor  the  faOure  of  so  manv  weavens  to  obtain  maximum  production  (1) 
the  loom,  (2)  the  -warp  and  filling  uaed,  <3)  the  weaver  himself,  we  beg  to  inform  you, 
that  the  looms  can  not  be  held  responsible  for  this  at  all.  Sometimes  the  warp  and  the 
illiilg  are  not  as  good  as  they  should  be  at  the  aveni«»,  but  this  factor  will  never 
amount  to  more  than  5  |)er  cent  of  the  looms  which  do  not  deliver  enou^  goods. 
The  main  drawback,  which  we  feel  very  much,  is  the  weaver  himself.  As  you  know, 
it  is  impossible  for  us  to  find  experienced  weavers,  and  therefore  we  are  obliged  to 
teach  moat  of  our  weavers  ourselves,  which  causes  us  a  great  d<ml  of  unnecessary  ex- 
pense, not  to  speak  of  damages  done  to  the  goods  while  the  apprentices  are  learning. 
Onl^  a  Y&ty  hmited  number  of  these  become  real  good  weaveis,  who  secure  the 
maximum  of  possible  production,  while  the  rest  of  the  weavers  never  come  near 
to  this  maximum  ^tia&i  by  lack  of  skill  or  intelligence.  As  to  our  expert  weavers 
they  seldom  stay  longer  than  three  years.  Many  of  the  men  take  up  other  occupa- 
tions, as  agents,  etc.,  iHiile  the  girls  get  married,  and  then  usually  do  not  work  any 
lon^^r  in  the  mills.  The  children  of  our  weavem  seldom  take  up  the  occupation  of 
their  parents,  preferring  to  take  up  evening-«Aool  lessons,  going  to  business  colleges, 
and  feel  more  inclined  to  take  up  occupations  in  offices,  as  chauffeurs,  etc.,  as  to  work 
in  wealing  or  spinning  mills. 

E9Uibli^mmt  No.  20.— Kb  you  desire  to  know  to  idiat  extent  the  three  factors  yoa 
name  are  responsible  for  these  variations,  I  will  answer  them  separately. 

(1)  The  Zoom.— This  has  nothing  whatever  to  do  with  it,  as  they  are  ail  alike  and  all 
run  at  the  same  speed — ^ie.,  the  shuttle  makes  the  same  number  of  picks  per  minute. 

To  iooire  the  prompt  adjustment  of  locans  that  may  get  out  of  order  from  time  to 
time,  we  pay  a  bonus  to  each  loom  fixer  in  the  form  of  a  percentage  of  the  wages  of  the 
weavers  employed  in  his  section  of  18  looms.     This  equalises  stoppages  from^is  cause 

(2)  The  warp  tmd  filling  inerf.— It  is,  of  couree,  the  aim  of  every  alert  manufacturer 
to  get  ihe  best  possible  working  yam  of  its  kind.  Good  yam  means  good  woduction 
and  good  production  means  low  cost  per  yard,  because  tiie  wages  of  all  day  workers 
and  all  fixed  and  overhead  expenses  remain  practically  the  same  whether  the  i-arda 
produced  be  large  or  small  in  number. 

But,  when  it  unavoidably  happens  that  poor  yam  is  receiiTed  and  there  is  no  altemar 
tive  but  to  use  it  or  stop  entirely,  the  poor  yam  is  eauitably  distributed  among  the 
weavers  in  order  that  the  disadvantages  may  be  shared  equally. 

(3)  The  imiver  htmsey, ^Th&e  are  iirBt-claas  weavers,  good  weavers,  fairly  good  weav- 
ers, and  "also  rans."    Distinctly  poor  weavers,  of  course,  we  do  not  keep. 

It  is  just  about  as  difficult  to  account  lor  these  degrees  as  it  is  to  explain  the  differ- 
ence in  artists,  machinists,  carpenters^  bricklayers,  or  baseball  pitchers. 

Natural  manual  skill,  vitality,  a  quick  eye,  diligence,  alertness,  ambition,  aystem^ 
temperament— all  are  governing  factors. 

The  good  weaver  never  seems  to  be  doing  any  tiling;  the  poor  wea\'er  always  appears 
to  be  hard  at  work.  The  good  weaver  is  quietly  on  the  alert  for  things  to  happen; 
the  poor  weaver  is  always  fussing  around  to  catch  up  after  they  happen;  csonsequently 
the  good  weaver  not  only  produces  more  work  but  better  work  than  the  poor  one. 

It  was  formerly  our  custom  to  pay  emplovees  every  two  weeks.  We  noticed  that 
the  weavers'  production  fw  the  last  two  days  was  in\-ariablv  greater  tlian  for  the  pre- 
vious days.  We  changed  to  a  weekly  pay  day  in  order  to  get  this  spurt  once  a  week 
instead  of  once  m  two  weeks.  This  led  to  a  further  experiment  in  the  form  of  a  pre- 
mium of  120,  divided  weekly  among  the  10  wmvea  earning  the  highest  wages.    While 


only  10  weavers  received  the  extra  pay,  the  production  of  the  whole  was  increased 
by  the  effort  all  made  to  get  into  the  premium  class. 

For  awhile  the  increase  in  production  was  as  much  as  8  per  cent,  but  in  course  of 
time  the  scheme  became  valueless  for  the  reason  that  about  15  weavers  invariably 
were  among  the  winners,  and  then  the  rest  stopped  trying. 

EsUihlishment  No.  21. — Our  weave  room  is  one  of  the  hardest  places  we  have  to 
keep  up  inefficiency.  Ambition  and  necesbity  are  also  governing  factors.  This 
answers  the  third  question,  "  The  weaver  himself." 

Our  loom  equipment  is  up  to  date  and  capable  of  maximum  production  at  minimum 
cost. 

I  do  not  consider  that  the  warp  and  filling  used  cut  much  figure  in  drawing  com- 
parisons, if  all  the  weavers  are  using  the  same.  It  will  have  its  effect,  however, 
when  comparisons  are  drawn  between  the  use  of  yarns  made  of  fine  stock  and  those 
made  of  low-grade  wool  and  shoddies.  The  same  weaver  would  get  less  production 
on  the  latter,  as  they  are  more  liable  to  run  tender  and  break  down,  causing  frequent 
delays. 

Unfortunately  so  many  medium  and  low  priced  goods  have  to  be  made  to  sell  for 
a  fixed  market  price  that  the  use  of  low-grade  stocks  in  order  to  meet  these  prices  very 
often  increase  the  manufacturing  cost  beyond  expectations  on  account  of  ih.Q  indiffer- 
ent working  qualities  of  the  stock  used. 

Another  feature  affecting  the  production  in  a  mill  making  fancy  cassimeres  is  the 
numberless  styles  of  patterns  and  colorings  required  by  the  trade  in  the  last  few  years, 
necessitating  such  constant  clianging  of  warps  in  the  looms  and  the  consequent  loss 
of  time  as  compared  to  a  mill  weaving  plain  piece  dyes  like  serges  or  a  worsted  mill 
using  worsted  yarns,  which  are  of  much  stronger  construction  tlmn  woolen  yams. 

Establishment  No.  22. — We  are  unable  to  give  you  any  reason  why  one  weaver 
should  turn  out  more  goods  and  receive  more  wages  than  another,  with  the  exception 
that  it  is  a  matter  that  ia  "up  to  the  weaver"  entirely. 

The  warp  and  filling  and  loom  have  nothing  to  do  with  it.  We  have  watched  this 
matter  very  closely,  and  we  have  decided  tliat  it  is  like  any  other  busine^ — that  one 
man  is  better  in  some  line  of  work  than  another,  being  able  to  turn  out  better  work 
and  more  of  it,  and  inasmuch  as  it  is  piece  work  the  better  man  receives  the  most 
wages. 

Estdblishynent  No.  2S. — First.  The  loom  has  very  little,  if  any,  bearing  on  the^effi- 
ciency  of  the  weaver,  assuming  that  the  weavers  have  the  same  make  of  loom  and  the 
same  kind  of  work. 

Second.  The  warp  and  filling  used  may  to  a  limited  extent  affect  the  efficiency  from 
the  fact  that  having  a  poor  warp  some  weavers  would  be  easily  discouraged,  while 
other  weavers  would  work  all  the  harder  to  get  the  warp  out  with  the  maximum  wages. 

Third.  The  amount  of  earnings  that  a  weaver  may  make  is  due  to  the  individual  and 
the  degree  of  attention  which  he  may  give  his  work,  the  human  element  being  the 
main  mctor  responsible  for  the  different  degrees  of  efficiency.  The  qualifications 
which  go  to  make  up  a  good  weaver  are  that  one  must  be  quick  in  action  both  mentally 
and  physically  and  temperamentally  fitted  for  this  kind  of  work. 

IMPERFECTIOXS. 

To  correct  the  imperfections  occurring  in  the  different  manufactur- 
ing processes,  especially  in  weaving,  1,375  menders  and  1,364  burlers 
were  employed  in  the  establishments  investigated,  together  vAi\\  219 
inspectors  and  64  foremen  and  subf oremen.  Every  yard  of  cloth  pro- 
duced by  the  5,412  weavers  operating  the  12,337  looms  was  closely 
scrutinized  and  the  imperfections,  so  far  as  it  was  possible  to  do  so, 
were  remedied.  The  lumps  and  knots  were  removed  by  the  burlers 
and  the  missing  threads  deftly  sewed  or  woven  in  by  hand  by  the 
menders,  who,  with  a  needle,  follow  the  pattern  through  the  thou- 
sands of  ends.  The  total  of  weavers,  looms,  menders,  and  burlers 
shows  that  in  all  the  mills  there  was  an  average  of  1  mender  to  every 
3.9  weavers  or  1  mender  to  8.9  looms,  and  1  burler  to  about  every  9 
looms.  ^  The  proportion  of  burlers  and  menders  to  looms  and  weavers 
varies  in  estabhshments,  depending  to  a  great  extent  on  the  efficiency 
of  the  weavers. 


1076 


EEPORT  OF  TABIFP  BOABB  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


In  one  establishment  the  number  of  looms  to  1  mender  was  3  3-  in 
another  it  was  8  looms  to  1  mender;  in  a  third  it  was  4  looms  to  1 
mender;  m  a  fourth  it  was  7.8  looms  to  1  mender.  In  the  same 
establishments  the  number  of  weavers  to  one  mender  were  as  follows 
m  the  above  order: 

EstabHshment  No.  1,  1.6  weavers  to  1  mender;  No.  2,  4  weavers  to 
1  mender;  No.  3,  4  weavers  to  1  mender;  No.  4,  4.2  weavers  to  1 
mender. 

The  number  of  looms  to  one  burler  in  the  same  establishments  was 
as  lollows : 

Establishment  No.  1,  22  looms  to  1  burler;  No.  2,  1.7  looms  to  1 
burler;  No.  3,  3.1  looms  to  1  burler;  No.  4,  6.7  looms  to  1  burler. 

llie  number  of  weavers  to  one  burler  in  same  estabhshments  was 
as  follows: 

Establishment  No.  1,  11  weavers  to  1  burler;  No.  2,  8.4  weavers  to 
1  burler;  No.  3,  3  weavers  to  1  burler;  No.  4,  3.5  weavers  to  1  burler 

Manufacturers  frequently  make  the  statement  that  there  are  no 
perfect  woolen  or  worsted  fabrics  woven.  To  correct  weaving  imper- 
fections to  some  extent,  an  electric  warp  stop  motion,  a  loom  attach- 
ment, IS  m  use  m  many  establishments. 

Its  working  is  described  by  a  mill  superintendent  as  follows: 

Weavers  ninnin^  two  looms  equipped  with  electric  warp  stop  motions  can  not  pro- 
duce as  Diany  yards  as  they  could  with  two  looms  not  equipped  with  these  warp  stop 
mouona,  becauae  the  mstant  the  warp  thread  breaks  the  warp  stop  motion  stops  the 

*i}l  *?®  weaver  is  w;orking  at  one  loom  and  a  warp  thread  breaks  on  the  second  loom, 
that  stops  and  remams  standing  until  he  finishes  working  on  the  first  loom  and  turns 
to  the  second  one  to  tie  in  the  broken  thread. 

WTierea^,  if  the  looms  were  not  eauipped  with  this  warp  stop  motion,  the  second 
loom  would  continue  to  run  when  the  warp  thread  broke  until  the  weaver  saw  the 
DreaK . 

At  the  time  he  discovered  this  break  the  loom  may  have  woven  several  inches  which 
would  have  an  imperfection  in  it.  ' 

This  broken  warp  thread  that  was  not  woven  in  would  have  to  be  sewed  in  bv  hand 
by  a  girl  m  the  sewing  room. 

*i-^^^^^5  ^^*^®  J  ^^T  ^^^V  ™o^i«^i^s  retard  the  production,  they  increase  the  quality  of 
the  goods  produced,  and  at  the  same  time  reduce  the  cost  of  sewing,  as  the  goods  pro- 
duced are  nearly  perfect,  as  far  as  the  weaving  is  concerned. 

The  following  form  in  daily  use  in  a  number  of  mills  shows  tho 
extent  and  variety  of  imperfections  and  also  indicates  the  errors  of 
the  weavers: 


Piece  No. 

Loom  No. 

P.  W.  sewed  by 
D.  W.  sewed  by 


Kent    ri::ii 

ColuroWa  lin» 
EEPOET  OF  TAEIFF  BOAHD  ON  SCHEDULE  K.        Ncwlf>38< 

;  style . 


weaver 


-;  No. 
-;  No. 


Imperfections. 


Extent. 


Rate. 


Smashes 

Light  places.. 
Heavy  places. 
Reed  marks.. 
Stains. 


Wrong  filling 

Overshots 

Floats 

Kinks 

Holes 

Ends  out 

Double  thread.. 

Wrong  draw 

Wrong  col  or 

Uneven  warp... 

Cross  reed 

Mispicks. 

Broken  picks 

Double  picks . . . . 
Uneven  filling.. 
Filling  drawn  in. 


Amount. 


Yards 


pounds 


ounces 


total 


I  have  examined  this  piece  and  certify  that  all  the  above  imperfections  have  been 
mended  as  far  as  is  possible  in  a  satisfactory  manner. 

• ,  Inspector. 

Piece  No. ;  style . 

Burled  by ;  No. . 

Yards ;  amount . 

I  have  examined  the  above  work  and  entries  and  behevQ  them  to  be  correct. 

■ — ,  Foreman, 

In  most  establishments  a  system  of  fining  prevails.  The  follow- 
ing posted  in  a  number  of  large  mills,  together  with  the  concluding 
notice,  shows  that  manufacturers  hold  weavers  responsible  lor 
bad  work: 

FINES   FOR   IMPERFECTIONS.  • 

1.  For  floats,  from  30  to  75  cents  each,  according  to  size. 

2.  For  each  bad  piece  caused  by  picking  out,  37  cents. 

3.  For  each  yard  of  threads  out,  15  cents  per  yard;  no  deduction  for  2  inches  or  less. 

4.  For  cloth  woven  with  more  than  two  picks  out,  $1.50;  for  cloth  woven  with  5  or 
more  picks  out  nothing  will  be  paid. 

5.  Face  filling  drawn  in  on  the  side,  for  1  yard  30  cents,  on  back  8  cents. 

6.  Each  mispick  on  face,  25  cents;  for  a  double  mispick,  50  cents. 

7.  Each  flying  lump,  15  cents. 

8.  Each  yard  of  wrong  draw,  15  cents. 

9.  Thread  out  on  the  back,  2  yards  or  more,  15  cents. 

10.  Mispicks  on  the  back,  8  cents  each. 

11.  Double  mispicks  on  the  back,  37  cents  each. 

12.  Double  threads,  coarse  threads,  coarse  filling,  wrong  filling,  pattern  changed, 
loom  mispicks,  harness  skipping,  reed  marks,  stop-motion  marks,  harness  down,  etc., 
according  to  damage. 

The  atove  list  of  fines  will  be  strictly  adhered  to,  the  intention  being  to  charge  the 
weaver  as  near  as  possible  to  cost  of  repairing  damages,  which  could  by  careful  watch- 
ing be  avoided. 

In  other  establishments  a  system  of  grading  the  weavers  instead  of 
fining  prevails. 

The  weavers  are  divided  into  five  grades.  Weavers  in  the  premium 
grade  are  paid  the  regular  piece  price  for  yard  and  5  per  cent  premium 

32080°— H.  Doc.  342,  G2-2,  vol  2 30 


) 


1078 


BEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


REPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


1079 


for  amounts  earned  in  excess  of  specified  sums.     The  piece  piioe  per 
yard  in  the  other  grades  is  graduated  downward. 
^   The  following  list  of  perfect  and  imperfect  work  regulates  the  grade 
m  which  each  weaver  is  placed: 

Premium  grade:  No  threads  out  over  4  inches;  no  broken  picks;  no  hea\y  or  light 
places. 

Grade  1:  Allowed  3  broken  picks,  no  migpicks;  allowed  threads  out  under  4  inches: 
allowed  threads  out  over  4  inches— 2  yards  in  a  piece. 

Grade  2:  Four  broken  picks,  1  mispick;  threads  out— 3  to  8  yards  in  a  piece-  wromr 
draw  or  crossed  color— 3  to  8  yards  in  length;  2  avoidable  heavy  or  light  places 

Grade  3:  Over  4  broken  picks,  2  or  more  mispicks;  thready  out  over  8  yards:  wrone 
draw  or  crossed  color— 8  yards  or  longer;  3  or  more  heavy  or  light  places. 

Grade  4:  Three  or  more  mispicks;  wrong  draw  through  whole  piece;  4  or  more  heavy 
or  iiguL  places. 

But  the  burling,  sewmg,  and  finishing  processes  fail  to  make  perfect 
a  large  quantity  of  woven  goods,  and  those  imperfect  goods  have  to 
be  sold  as  seconds  and  at  prices  below  those  obtained  for  the  goods 
known  as  perfect. 

The  agents  of  the  board  inquired  into  the  eflfect  of  imperfections  on 
the  sale  of  goods.  From  16  establishments  it  was  ascertained  that 
of  62,540,014  yards  of  cloth  made,  1,362,496  yards,  or  2.18  per  cent, 
were  seconds  or  imperfectly  woven  goods  and  had  to  be  sold  at  prices 
below  those  of  the  regular  goods.  The  seconds  do  not,  however, 
represent  all  of  the  goods  made  which  have  to  be  sold  below  the 
regular  prices.  There  are  also  remnants,  shorts,  patchwork,  and 
waste.  Remnants  are  cut  from  pieces  having  imperfections.  In 
enumerating  the  losses  on  this  class  of  goods  and  others,  one  estab- 
lishment reported  that — 

In  the  manufacture  of  goods  for  the  men's  wear  trade  there  are  large  quantities  of 
goods  returned  on  account  of  the  failure  to  sell  them  on  the  part  of  our  customers, 
tiie  goods  being  returned  under  some  subterfuge  of  alleged  imperfections,  imperfect 
dyeing,  etc.,  which  frequently  have  to  be  sold  at  a  heavy  loss,  as  they  are  not  returned 
untd  late  in  the  season.  By  careful  estimate  on  goods  returaed  for  the  paat  three 
years  we  find  that  about  20  per  cent  of  our  production  is  returned  in  this  way,  upon 
which  we  estimate  our  loss  as  being  10  per  cent,  eaualing  a  net  loss  of  2  per  cent  on 
our  entire  production  from  this  cause.  There  is  also  a  loss  on  goods  which  are  set 
aside  as  seconds,  when  they  come  through  the  finishing  department,  owing  to  imper- 
fect weaving,  dyeing,  etc.,  which  have  to  be  sold  at  reduced  figure^  which,  together 
with  claims  allowed  for  imperfections  while  goods  are  in  the  hands  of  consumers, 
equal  approximately  2  per  cent  of  the  gross  amount  of  producUon. 

In  an  establishment  manufacturing  dress  goods  the  percentage  of 
the  seconds  yardage  was  as  follows: 

Worsted  goods  No.  1,  1.01  per  cent. 

Worsted  goods  No.  2,  2.28  per  cent. 

Wool  goods  No.  1,  2.50  per  cent. 

Wool  goods  No.  2,  4.50  per  cent. 

These  are  the  percentages  of  the  yardage  of  whole  pieces  made  sec- 
onds and  do  not  include  allowances  for  imperfections  or  remnants  cut 
from  pieces  for  imperfections. 

From  another  establishment  having  a  large  output  records  of  per- 
fect and  imperfect  yardage  for  six  months  ending  in  1910  and  for 
six  months  ending  in  1911  were  obtained. 

Omitting  the  number  of  yards  included  in  each  group  the  percent- 
age of  perfect  goods,  seconds,  shorts,  remnants,  and  patchwork, 
together  with  the  proportion  sold  at  less  than  regular  prices,  are 
shown  in  the  following: 


Six  months  ending  1910. 

1 

J 

Worsted  goods. 

All-wool  goods. 

Per  cent 

of 
product. 

Prices  obtained. 

Per  cent 

of 
product. 

— 1 

Prices  obtained. 

Perfpcfs 

95.43 
2.02 

1.07 
1.22 

.26 

Sold  at  regular  prices 

10  per  cent  less  than  regular 
prices. 

do 

26  cents  per  jmrd 

89.52 
5.44 

2.78 

L92 

.34 

Sold  at  regular  nrices. 

geconds 

10  per  cent  less  than  regular 
prices. 

I>0. 

Shorts 

Remnants 

35.75  cents  oer  vard- 

Patchwork 

20.52  cents  per  nound.... 

34  cents  per  potmd. 

Sic  mofUhs  ending  first  half  of  1911. 


Worsted  goods. 

All-wool  goods. 

Per  cent 

of 

product. 

Prices  obtained. 

Percent 
of 

product. 

Prices  obtained. 

Perfects 

94.88 
2.02 

1.13 

1.58 

.39 

Sold  at  regular  prices 

91.22 
3.09 

2.73 

1.94 

.42 

Sold  at  regular  prices. 
Sold  at  10  per  cent  less  than 
regular  prices. 

Seconds 

Shorts 

Sold  at  10  per  cent  le^  than 

regulai-  prices. 
do 

Ilemnants 

PatchworJc 

Sold  at  21.75  cents  per  yard. . . 
Sold  at  17.02  cents  per  pound. . 

Sold  at  35.25  cents  per  yard. 
Sold  at  18.02  cents  per  pound. 

In  the  foregoing  the  remnants  and  patchwork  are  contracted  for 
eacli  six  months,  the  price  obtained  for  remnants  being  per  yard  and 
that  for  patchwork  being  by  the  pound. 


GEHEEAl  TABUE. 

Table  SO  presents  the  important  facts  mntnir^aA  ir.  ♦!,„  j  x 
piled  from  tie  loom  records  wJiiJh  were  keptin^o''J*i;^,,^^^ 
mils  mvestigated  and  wliicli  have  been  descriherMn  Z„  ?  T  ''"'^ 
1045  to  1065  in  the  chapter  on  "The  Xlfn.^"*  a.'"  '■"^'''^  **  ?»««,! 
.  In  the  first  12  and  th^e  iLt'colJi^^mZsJt^rjlir^ThrnW; 
cipa  facts  conceniing  the  fabrics  wovenXrin^  thrDeWoTfn.  J^"T 

f:jT)  Z'f'  "T  ^'f'  ^'^^'y-  («"  the  "vdgU^of"t?feSothtr 
warp  vainlf  arnP^'"-"*  """^P  ""f-^'  ^''/'^^  '^^  ^^^^  and  quaKf 
Sle^s^')  numb  J^fl^f™?'*  quahty  of  weft  yam,  (g)  number  of 

of  ;m  St  ;VrnTev^:;f  TfcMsyp^^^^^ 
iiLrpt:7/r^y3;«Tro  ii^t*' ^^'  *-«  «^  -^a^^r^^ta 

4^^^^^^^^^^^  data  c.  I 

feltofSSCd^rhJi^^LSfe^^ 

Tley  constitute,  therefore,  direct  an3  fimlXuuSnticTnfS 

Z  X'E"fo?7l'^"f  r?  "^  y^-^^'"^  '"^  the  United  StatesTfj 

'<f  eirer  S'^:„t'^we^'ei^^^  P''"^'^*^^  ^'^  *^«  «^'«P*-  - 

80  f'^  aSTharco;,Id  h^  l""''  ^'^^^'  ^^P""}^  ^^  published  in  detail 

r^fnlld  S%H^^^^^^^  -terial  J^ 

ation.  *''""  "°*^  minutes)  that  loom  waa  in  oper- 

(6)  The  time  (tours  and  minutes)  lost  in  stoppages. 

W    fZ  cent  of  l^ltl  ^""^  "T  ^''^  '"  aetuaf  SpLW. 

(V.^A  J^It  **VOtal  time  lost  in  stoppages. 

{.e  and  /)  Number  of   yards  woven  hm-  hmi,.  /»t   ♦«*„!  *•  f 

weaver  and  per  hour  of  actual  prX'ngPtime  "^   *''*'^  *'"""  ''^ 

Ihese  facts  are  the  results  of  computations  based  on  the  sneed  nf 
the  loom,  number  of  picks  per  inch  in  the  clotJi  thTi^^rmKlt.  It        i 
woven,  and  the  total  time  of  the  weaver     SmethXised  t^Zt 
ing  these  computations  has  been  described  at  page  1048 

In  regard  to  certain  facts  shown  in  Table  80  it  mav  he  «„»!  tl,»f 
they  descnbe  the  cloth  "in  the  rnw"  ♦!,«+;<.„  "..  ."^  °®  ^,^^'\  that 
The  weio-ht  <ri™n  ;^  t^„i  i  oa  •  .i  ',  t°at  is,  as  it  leaves  the  loom. 
jiiB  weignigivenm  lableSOis  therefore  the  weitrht.nf  <Uo />i„«k  :„  j/ 

oflfifn  rr^^  ^^^  --^-  «^  picks  ptr^a^irULroX^ 

an?sZeti,^rLlo/i'^  t1?  *'°"°*-^^  ^:''™u  "^^^^  '^  described  as  2/30, 
ana  sometimes  aa  30/2.     The  meamng  is  the  same  in  both  cases,  the 

1080  ' 


KEPOKT  OF   TAKIFF   BOARD   ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


1081 


smaller  number  representing  the  ply  and  tlie  larger  the  count.     Thus 
2/30  yarn  or  30/2  yarn  means  a  two-ply  worsted  yarn  No.  (count)  30. 

Woolen  yarn  is  generally  heavier  than  worsted  yarn  and  is  there- 
fore, in  most  instances,  single  ply.  Accordingly  where  no  figure  is 
shown  in  Table  80  for  the  ply  or  woolen  yarn,  single  ply  is  always 
meant  in  the  same  manner  as  v/here  the  ply  is  mdicated  by  the 
figure  1. 

The  size  of  woolen  yarn  is,  in  most  of  the  mills  investigated  in  the 
United  States,  numbered  in  runs,  while  worsted  yarns  are  numbered 
in  counts.  As  has  been  explained,  1-count  yarn  is  yarn  1  pound 
of  wliich  contains  560  yards  of  single  thread.  In  1  pound  of  20- 
count  yarn  there  are  11, 200  yards  of  single  thread  (20  by  560).  One- 
run  yarn  is  yarn  1  pound  of  which  contains  1,600  yards  of  single 
thread,  four-run  yarn  containing  6,400  yards  of  single  thread  (4  by 
1,600). 

In  some  instances  the  size  of  woolen  yarn  is  expressed  in  terms  of 
counts  instead  of  runs,  but  this  fact  has  been  specially  noted  in  every 
case. 

As  a  rule  the  quality  of  worsted  yarn  used  is  described  as  1/2 
blood,  3/8  blood,  high  3/8  blood,  1/4  blood,  or  60's,  80's,  fine  Ohio 
delaine,  fine  medium,  etc.  These  are  the  trade  and  market  terms  in 
common  use  in  tliis  country. 

The  quality  of  woolen  yarn  is  not  described  in  such  detail,  but  is 
referred  to  merely  as  woolen  (uncombed)  yarn.  There  is  a  great 
variety  of  stock  used  in  making  up  woolen  yarn.  In  fact,  in  most 
cases  a  description  of  the  elements  would  require  too  much  space  and 
would  be  of  little  or  no  value  for  the  purposes  of  Table  80. 

The  following  list  shows  a  few  or  the  varieties  of  stock  used  in 
making  woolen  yarn  in  the  mills  covered  by  the  investigation  for 
the  given  period. 

Low-grade  wool  and  shoddy. 

XXXXOhio. 

Fine  Australian  noils. 

Australian  garnetted  waste. 

Ninety  per  cent  X  Ohio,  10  per  cent  waste. 

Thirty  per  cent  X  Ohio,  70  per  cent  waste. 

Mediiun. 

Forty-five  per  cent  Mexican;  35  per  cent  3/8  blood;  and  20  per 
cent  noils. 

Twenty-five  per  cent  Mexican,  75  per  cent  noils. 

The  above  are  only  a  few  of  the  many  varieties  of  stock  that  are 
used  in  woolen  yarn,  but  they  add  notlnng  to  the  value  of  Table  80. 

The  data  shown  in  Table  80  represent  a  large  range  of  woolen  and 
worsted  fabrics  made  in  a  large  number  of  mills  in  various  sections 
of  the  United  States.  Wherever  the  individual  operations  of  a  mill 
would  be  disclosed  by  giving  the  name  of  the  fabric  (some  fabrics 
being  made  by  only  one  or  two  mills)  the  loom  records  for  such 
fabrics  have  been  included  in  Table  80  under  the  caption  *  ^Ladies' 
Dress  Goods,  Worsted"  or  *  ^Miscellaneous  Worsted  Fabrics"  or 
"Miscellaneous  Woolen  Fabrics." 


1082 


BEPORT  OF  TABIFF  BOABD  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 


BEPOET  OF   TARIFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDUJbE   K. 


1083 


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KEPORT  OF   TABIFF  BOAKD  ON   SCHEDULE   K. 


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1214 


-BEPOKT  or  TABIFF  BOAED  OS  8CHEDTJLB 


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1216 


BEPOBT  OF   TAKEFF  BOARD  ON  SCHEDULE  K.  . 


BEPORT  OF  TARIFF  BOARD   ON   SCHEDULE  K. 


1217 


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aEFOBT  OF  TARIFF  BOAKD  Olf  SCHEDULE  K. 


SYSTEM  OF  INQUIBT* 

Copies  of  the  schedules  used  are  herewith  submitted,  so  that  the 
true  nature  of  the  investigation  may  be  further  understood. 

[CCWnBENTIALj 

The  Tabipf  Board* 

MOm^N  AND   WOmSTED  INDUSTBY. 

Kiiiiie  of  repveaeatatlve, Kame  of  agent, 

WEAVING  DEPARTMENT. 


Identification  No. 


xTBisons  emjuoyea. 


Wea^efs* 


Lmm  M% 


Sex. 


Country 
of  birth. 


Looms. 


Kind  of  loom 
(plain,  full, 
fame  J,  etc.). 


Singte  or 
double 
beam 
'wxxkk. 


ffl 

H  3 1  ^ 

to 


a 

u     . 

a' 

u 
0tt 


Place  and  date 
of  malce. 


Rates,  earn- 
ings, and 

tilBt. 


■s-g 

I*" 


t 


o 


1% 


01 


Description  of  goods  made  Cwnflnished). 

• 

K 

Ah 

.g 

1 

• 
M 

s 

Number  of  ends. 

O  et 

1 

Warp. 

Filling. 

Trade  name  of  gtrndS. 

Ply 

and 

count. 

Quality. 

Ply 

and 
count. 

Quality. 

WOOL-SCOURINO  DEPARTMENT. 


FaiBOiui  employed* 


Occupation. 


Number. 


Country  of  blrth» 


■"■■■     '      '      •■ 


ltachine& 


NameofL 


Place  and  date 
of  make. 


Number 

of  TOSf 

chines. 


Number 
of  bowltf. 


Time  and  earnings. 


Total  hours 

woricedi 


Total 
amount 
earned. 


Production. 


Pounds  of 
greasy  wool 

fed  to 
machine. 


Pounds  of 

scoured 

wool 

produced. 


Crade  of  wool  used. 


BEPORT   OF   TARIFF  BOARD  ON   SCHEDULE   K» 


CARDING   DEPARTMENT. 


121d 


Persona  employed. 

Machine. 

Oocup»- 
lion. 

C^tntry  - 
of  birttu 

Males. 

Females. 

Name  of. 

Place  and  date 
of  make. 

Number 
of  card- 
ing ma- 
chimes. 

16  and 
over. 

Under 
IG. 

16  and 
over. 

Under 
16. 

Width 
of  card. 

ill         ■'■ 

Time  and  earnings. 

Production. 

Total 
hours 

TotAl 

amount 
earned. 

Poimds  produced. 

Grade  of  stock  used. 

worked  on 
product. 

Per  set. 

Total. 

- 

DRAWING  DEPARTMENT. 


Persons  employe<l. 


Drawing  frames. 


OcCUptttlMI. 


Country 
of  birth. 


Sex  and  age. 


Males. 


16  and 
dver. 


undo: 
16. 


Femfdes. 


16  and 
ov^. 


Under 

16. 


Name  of. 


Number 


Place  and  date  of  make. 


Production,  tinie,  and  earnings. 


Hours  wmted. 


Total  amount 
earned. 


Pounds  pro- 
duced. 


Description  of  roiing. 


1220 


BEPOET  OF  TARIFF  BOAED  ON  SCHEDULE  K. 
COMBING  OB  TOP-MAKING  DEPARTMENT. 


Persons  employed. 


Occupa- 
tion. 


C!ountryof 
birth. 


Ci'dX* 


Males. 


Females. 


Machines. 


Name  of  machine. 


Place  and  date  of 
make. 


Time  and  earnings. 


Number  of 
machines. 


Production. 


Total 

hours 

worked  on 

product. 


Total 
amount 
earned. 


Total 
pounds  fed 
to  machine. 


Pounds  produced. 


Tops. 


Noils. 


Waste. 


Description  of  product. 


FRAME-SPINNING  DEPARTMENT. 


Persons  employed. 


Occupa- 
tion. 


J&aies. 


Coimtry  of  birth. 


1 


«  O 


Females. 


u  8 

g)  O 


a 


t 


o 

I 


.a 


u 

M 
1 


3 


& 


a> 


Pi 


CQ 


Place  and  date 

of  make  ol 

frames. 


f 


Time,  production,  and  earnings. 


Booxs 


Total  amotmt 
eftmed. 


Pounds 
produced. 


Number  of 


Average 

twists 

per  Inch. 


Description  of  yam. 


BEPORT  OF   TARIFF  BOARD   ON   SCHEDULE   K. 
'    MULE  SPINNING  DEPARTMENT:  CARDED  WOOL. 


1221 


Occupation. 


Persons  employed  (sex). 


Males. 


Females. 


16  years 

and 

over 


Country  of 
birth. 


Under  16  years 

16         and 
years,     over. 


Under 
16 

years. 


Number  of 
spindles. 


Per 

mule. 


Per 

spinner, 


Machine  (place  and 
date  of  make). 


Time  and  earnings. 


Hours 
worked. 


Wages 
earned. 


Production. 


Pounds 
produced. 


Number  of 
yam. 


Description  of  yam. 


MULE  SPINNING  DEPARTMENT:  WORSTED. 


Persons  employed  (sex). 


Occupation. 


Males. 


16  years 

and 

over. 


Under 

16 
years. 


Females. 


16  years 

and 

over. 


Country  of 
birth. 


Number  of 
spindles. 


_, 


Undea 

IG 
years; 


Per 
mule. 


Per 
spinner. 


Machine  (date  and 
place  of  make). 


Time  and  earnings. 


Hours 
worked. 


Wages 
earned. 


Production. 


Pounds 
produced. 


Number 
of  yarn. 


Average 

twists 

per  inch. 


Description  of  yam. 


WOOL  SHRINKAGE. 
Wool  in  the  grease. 


Date. 


Lot  No. 


Place  of  origin. 


Market  grade. 


32080°--H.  Doc.  342,  62-2.  vol  2 39 


Price  per 
pound. 


Number 
of  pounds. 


JLjEi  £a  jLk 


BEPOET  OF  TARIFF  BOAED  ON   SCHEDULE   K. 

WOOL  SHRINK  AG  E-Contlnued. 
Samred  wool. 


f  1 


Per  cent. 

Tops  produced.    Noils  produced. 

Comb  waste. 

Card  waste. 

Totu  pounds. 

Prod- 
uct. 

Loas. 

Pounds. 

Per 

cent. 

Pounds. 

Per 
cent. 

Pounds. 

Per 
cent. 

Pounds. 

Per 
cent. 

SUPPLEMENTARY  SCHEDULE. 


Trade  name  of  goods. 


Total 

yardage 

produced. 


Total 

yards 

perfect 

goods. 


Total 

yards 

Imperfect 

goods. 


Yardage  yielding  less 
than  regular  selling 
price. 


10  per 
cent. 


20  pier 
cent. 


30  per 
cent. 


Waste. 
(Sold 

at 
pound 
rates.) 


/ 


The  Tariff  Board, 
washington-,  d.  c. 

THE   WOOLEN   AND   WORSTED  INDUSTRY. 

Pay  roll  No.  or  name  of  employee 

Sex  of  employee  (male  or  female) 

Under  or  over  16  years  of  age 

Specific  occupation  of  employee 

Name  of  department  of  mill  where  working 

Years  or  months  employed  in  this  mill 

Years  or  months  employed  in  this  occupation 

Years  or  months  employed  in  the  woolen  industry 
Name  of  former  industr}^  and  occupation  before  begi 
Country  of  birth  of  employee 


Identification  No 


I 


ginning  work  in  woolen  mills 


Loom  Card. 

Pat  Roll  No 

Loom  No 

Wearer  Male  Female 

Runs Looms 

Beams Shuttles Harness. 

Speed picks  per  mln. 

Weaver's  piece  price  per  yar< 
Hours— 1st  day 

2d  day 

3d  day 

4th  day 

Sth  day 

6th  day 


pe 


Total 

Picks  per  inch Loom  width 

Total  3'ards  woven 

Ends Weight  per  yard 

Warj) 


Filling 

Trade  name  of  goo<  is 

Style'No."  '.I'.l'.'.l'.'.'.'.'.'.y  Piece  No.' '.'.".'.' '.'.'.'. 


INDEX. 


A. 

Aborigines,  emplojrment  of,  in  Australia 43^ 

Actual  rates  paid  on  specific  cloths 723 

Adrianople  skin  (Kassapbatchia)  wools 33  4^  42^ 

Afganwooi    :::;:::;;::;;:;;;;. ..'42,' 428 

Africa,  wools  of '  43c 

Alabama,  sheep  conditions  in .........[..... 547 

Albanian  wool 43  ^99 

Aleppo  wool -^  -]!.*...."...*.. 42'  431 

Alpaca  (see  also  Hair) 33  40 

Alpaca  fabric .[."..[ .[[[..1 145 

American  charge  for  combing 641 

American  conversion  cost  for  worsted  yarns 64g 

American  merino ." .' !  "3i;353,'548, 552 

American  wools 30,299  300  301354 

Analysis  of —  »       ,       ,       ,   «^ 

Men's  clothing  costs... 856,864-874 

Women  s  clothing  costs 894-8a8 

Angora  goats " ." .  " gi  ? 

American,  quality  of  mohair  from .'-"'..!..]  1 "  ] 612 

Average  shearing  per  head  in  America gi  3 

Average  value  per  head gi « 

Browsing  habits  of gi4  g|K 

C'are  necessary  in  feeding []'] ' g, ? 

Difficulties  in  raising ] ' ' " g^J 

Exportation  of,  prohibited ] /, ^i? 

Handling  on  ranges " '   ' g|i 

Handling  on  western  ranges no 

In  South  Africa ^^^ 

Labor  required  to  care  for . 

Length  of  fleece  of 

Losses  of «, . 

Mottonof -".".'.'.".*.".'.".'.■." "       gjo 

Necessary  ecjuipment  for  handling [ gi  f 

Number  of ,  m  Cape  Province 20Q 

Shearing  of g,.,  fz^ 

Receipts  from  sales  of  mohair '.'. ' a^t 

Wool  of 11^ 

Appendix  A:  '^-'■ 

Duties  on  raw  wool  and  certain  articles  of  wool  manufacture  in  Austria- 
Hungary,  Belgium,  Canada,  France,  Germany,  Italy,  Jaoan,  Russia, 
and  owitzerlanu '  ^p ^—o-rn 

Number  of  sheep  in  the  Australian  States'from'isM  'to  im "      400 

-*-»— Appendix  B :  '^^ 

*^°i^Pn?*^^i^^r?*^*®™^^*  ^^  ^^^^  ^^  ^^0^  ^^^  manufactures  of  wool  from 

17o9  to  1909 9''7_9Q~ 

Production  of  wool  in  the  Australian  StatesVi966  to'i969.* ." .' "'  ~lgi 

Appendix  C:  Exports  of  wool  from  the  Commonwealth  of  Australia", "i966' to 

i'^" AM 

Appendix  D :  Commonwealth  wool  exports  in  bales  .".*.".".'." 404 

Appendix  E:  Local  prices  of  Australian  merino  wools  for  10  yearJ *.* 494 

Appendix  F:  Distribution  of  wool  sold  in  principal  Australian  markets 494 

Appendix  G:  Approximate  prices  of  Australian  wools  in  princioal  maikete'at 
the  close  of  the  1909-10  season 


611 
615 
613 


"^toa^^^^^'  ^^^^^^'^  of  mutton  and  lamb  "from 'tiie  CommVnw'eaii  of  Aus-* 

1223 


495 
496 


1224 


INDEX. 


INDEX, 


1225 


JpajMjt 

Appendix  I :  Typical  pastoral  areaa  in  Australia,   held  under  Government 
leases ^q_ 

Appendix  J :  Condition  of  public  estate  iii  AustraUa .  ' ." aqr 

Argentina:  *^ 

Agriculture  of ^2*; 

An  estancia  in [   Sno 

Breed  of  sheep  in ."..'.' ^9a  ?9ft 

Climatic  conditions  of .";: ^^^'K? 

Cultivation  of  maize  in rog 

Decline  of  eheep  breedinsr  in co? 

Diseases  of  sheep  in ^24 

Fences  of '......].. Kon 

Future  of  dieep  industry  in ro^  roo 

Grades  of  wool  in .■;.:;;; 'on? 

Lands  in ^27 

Method  of  herding  sheep [ rqo 

Pure-bred  «heep  in ko5 

Scab  in ^. .:::;;;;;;;;;;: i? 

Sheep  industry.     (See  Sheep  industry  in  South  America;) 

lable  of  exports  and  prices  for  wool ^41 

Wages  in ■- ^^ 

Wool,  character  of  in 33  34  42  528 

Arizona,  breed  of  rams  and  ewes  in '     fio^'fiAT 

Asiatic  wools I'o  Tijsin 

Auction  wool :  -  - .  -  4.,  4^7, 4J0 

Auction  in  Australia 35  oio  4fiq 

London  auctions "[] '   35  o?? 

Other  auctions Ill]" 912 

Australasia,  wools  of 41'^a  aqc 

Australia:  34,40,436 

American  demand  for  wool  of ^gg 

Approximate  prices  of  Australian  wools  in  principal  markets  at  the  close  of 

the  1909-10  season ^qs- 

Artesian  water  in [ .qo 

Boundary  riders  employed  in l'.'.'/. Aoi 

Building  railroads  in ^g-. 

Capital  invested  in  wool  industry  in 491 

Climatic  conditions ^..2 

Condition  of  public  estate ". aqZ 

Cost  of  fences  in ^-o  .gj 

Cost  of  laborers  in 404 

Cost  of  provisions  in 404 

Destruction  of  rabbits  in 1. 1... [.[.[[ 470 

Development  of  wool  sales  in [[ 35212  469 

Distribution  of  wool  sold  in  principal  Australian  markets '       '404 

Drought  in ^^ 

Effects  of  drought  on  sheep  industr}'  in '       rcc 

Employment  of  aborigines  in '..'.'.'..'. 486 

Exports  of  mutton  and  lamb  from  the  Commonwealth  of  Australia 496 

Extension  of  Government  railways  in 40-1 

Fences  in *. ]   ^yg  .gj 

First  sheep  in [   '  ^g. 

Freight  on  mutton  from ^  '  * "  ] 470 

Future  of  sheep  industry  in ^qq 

General  tables  concerning  wool  industrv' '.'. 492-498 

Improvements  in '. 335 

Increase  of  lambs  in 4^7 

Investment  per  head  of  sheep lllll" 333 

Labor  costs  in ^gQ  ^g« 

Labor  difficulties  in ^  • .... ............[.[ .[[[[[[    '         455'  486 

Land  system  of '..'.'.'.'.'.'.". '  475 

Land  taxation 475 

Land  values  in .^.11". [....I. [....[[[ 439 

Leased  land  exempt  from  tax  in 433 

Local  consumption  of  wool  in 470 

Local  prices  of  Australian  merino  wools  for  io  years.  JJ..... [.........[.][      494 


Australia — Continued.  P&ge. 

Market  prices  in .«- 

Merino  and  crossbred  sales """"[[[[ 212 

Method  of  handling  fleece ,[] 337  i.i 

Net  charge  against  wool  in ' ^  ^^0 

Number  of  sheep  in of\k"^f\K  aoo 

Paddocks,  size  of ..;.: 205,305,492 

Paddock  system  of V^Z 

Pastoral  lands  of ." 47-?  497 

Pastoral  leaseholds,  selling  value  of 48Q 

Percentage  of  merino  sheep  in " on? 

Production  and  export  of  wool  in kkfi'lQ'i  aqa 

Provisions  against  drought  in lit 

Purchase  of  land  by  States  in 1^ 

Receipts  per  head  of  sheep  in oVq 

Rents  of  lands  in J^J 

Returns  from  sheep  industry  in -'.-.............. 409 

Scale  of  sheep  laborers'  wages  in 40^ 

Scarcity  of  labor  in [[[[[ 40^ 

Shearers'  wages  in 405 

Shearing  equipment  in ^ !  ^  1  ^  ^  ]  1 !!''."].... ." 337 

Sheep  diseases  in 4g« 

Sheep  industry.     (See  Sheep  industry  in  Australia.) 

Strikes  of  sheepshearers  in 400 

Surplus  stock  and  mutton  in ] 47? 

System  of  land  leases  in 47^ 

Trade  unions  in 435 

Ultimate  carrying  capacity  of  number  of  sheep  in.*.'.'.".'.". .'..'. 499 

Union  labor  m „ .  Igc 

Unoccupied  lands  in 47? 

Varieties  of  sheep .' 4^0 

Wages  of  herders  in 340 

Workers'  and  shearers'  unions  in '. 400 

Working  cost  in 40^ 

Australian  Commonwealth ,  special  report  upon ....  4^0 

Australian  markets,  development  of Irq 

Australian  sheep:  ^ 

Shearing  weights  of 4^0 

Special  report  on 7^ 

\  arieties  of 4^, 

Australian  studs ^^^ 

Australian  wools [[ ooo'lnnJiai 

Austria,  wool  manufactures 299,400^06 

Austria-Hungary,  wools  in 4-?  49? 

Automatic  machines: -^o,  ^zx 

J-ooms , 

Scouring  machines "^^'  ^(5° 

^"^^^^ooi """:::::::::::::::::::::::::'42;43i,432 

B. 

Bagdad  wool o,  .oa^oo 

Bags,  wool,  cost  of ^^'^^^^2 

Basis  of  wool  classification qS 

"Basket "  clause :  ^ 

Analj^sis  of  duties ;^^^^^^ 

Definition ino 

Imports  under .' " |!j'^ 

Materials  provided  for  by jii 

Rates  of  duty ' -[^  j"^ 

Bathing  suits,  men's '  q^JJ 

Belgium :  ' ^-" 

Comparison  with  leading  manufacturing  countries  9^^9t{R 

Scouring  machines  made  in 1091 

Wool  manufactures " ". ^r  J 

Blackface  sheep 00  Zia 

Blackface  woof. .' ." ^^'  ^;J 

43 


I 

} 


1226 

Blankets; 

(?ommcrce  for  leading  countries. . , 
DclinitioD 


INDEX. 


Page. 
141 
137 


Duties  under  proviso. i ««  f  X~ 

Exporta  of  bknketa  and  flannels '.[ '  i^L 

Imports —  ^^^ 

Analyeis  of  rates iia  ion 

For  1911 ..".:.■::;:: Ill 

For  representative  years iQO-i^rt 

Making  of ^^^]^^ 

Production 140-141 

Production  in  United  Kingdom ....".''. \ai 

Katea  of  duty ^ ; ««  tH 

Bokhara  wool ^S'  ^tL 

Joeton,  freigh  to  on  wind  to po 

^^^Zm)!''^^'    ^^"^^  ^'oml^ii^g  (Bi^ford'systemy  and^bm"^ng*(i5^^^^  ^ 

Bradford  system  of  wool  conditioning. . . 

Braid  wool _ 

British  Isles,  wool  from 


105 

38 

419 


British  sheep,  types  of j!q 

British  South  AMcjt:  ^^ 


South  Africa.) 


209 


Number  of  Angora  goafs,  etc.,  in  the  Cape...  . 
Sheep  industry.     {See  Sheep  industry  in  British  So 
Buenos  Aires: 

Number  of  sheep  in coo 

Sheep  raising  in '.'.V.'.'.'.V. 59^ 

Buildingsand  equipment,  comparative  cost  of,  UnitcHhStetesand  Engkiad  .* '.'.'. .       705 

uurit'rsi 

Country  of  birth 9=2  Q^q  0^4 

Hourly  rates  of  wages rioo'  009'  iit 

J.'*  iiiiiLrtri tiro   nto 

I  roportioii  ( »i 1  AT-  1  n-o 

f^  J- 107o,  10/  6 

w^^f:::::::;;;;;:;;:;;;:;;;;;;;:;;; ^"^^ 

Burling  and  mending  department.    {See  Department,  employe"es'bv  ) ^ 

Bushirewool ^ *  "^  431  439 

Bussorah  wool lA  Toi  Too 

42,  431,  4.  2 


30 


C02 

602 

AH'* 


c. 

Cabretta  slieep 

California: 

Breed  of  rams  and  ewes  in fiAn  aat 

Breeds  of  sheep  in ] ^'J^Xl 

Conditions  in " ' ' JC^n 

Decline  in  numbers  of  sheep  in /^^n 

liambing  in °"^ 

IN  umber  of  herders  required  in 

Number  of  sheep  in 

Sheep  within  fenced  inclosurea  in]  ^  ^  ^  J. .  .".^  1  V.V. 

Wages  of  herders  in rn  < 

Calmuc  wocd .^y  "7^1L 

Camel's  hair ?«  kq 

Camel  hair,  Russian '.V.V.V. iV^i'r.o  40ft 

Canada.    {See  Country-  of  birth  of  employees.)         *<5,  o/,  oj,  ^.0 

Canada,  sheep  industrv'  in '  4'>fi_4'',Q 

Canadian  wool  clip. . . .' jr  > 

Canadian  woc»ls kk' -i^'  a(\a^'7 

Cape  Province:  d6,.W,40,4o7 

Diseaaes  of  sheep  in ri  a 

Land  values  in tZn 

Wool  of ^i? 

Capital: ^^ 

Average  income  on  in  United  States 393 

Average  per  head  of  pheep ojo 

Caps  and  hoods,  ladies' ^il-^'-'l  *.-.".*."'.". '"!!*!      945 


USTDEX. 


1227 


Carbonized  wool:  ^ 

Duty  on ^^^• 

Process  of  carbonizing ]  ] ' \j^ 

Card  grinders :  "^ 

Country  of  birth orn  ot:i 

Hourly  jates  of  wages V ^^  ^51 

Number 986,990 

Sex .;:.■.::.:; i^,^^i 

Card  tenders:  ®^i  ^^1 

Country  of  birth 

Hourly  n.tes  of  wages ";:::::-";:::::::;:::;::::;:;::-986,9^;m 

Sex.....".;.;;;;..;;.;;.;;;;;;;; 950,951 

Carded  wool: ^^»  ^^1 

DejSnition 

Duty  on '.'.'.'.'.'..'..'. C^q  ]^^ 

Manufacturing  process -^^^'  \]^ 

^""^'Tvotte^'TaMing.f ''  ^^I^^^^^^t'  employees"  by,*  Woolen"  Warding,"  and 

Carding  machines: 

Number  of  operatives ,^^^  ^.-^ 

Nmnber  of  machines TnW  ^  1;«^ 

Place  of  make t23^??5 

Productive  efficiency V. S  in^? 

Years  in  operation ;;; ;aaa  ! xS^' j"^^ 

Carpenters:  ^"^•^'  ^^26, 1042 

Country  of  birth or9  nro 

NZt'e/""'"*'''^"' •■^^^^^^^"::::::::::::;:::;:;-989;993iw? 

Sex...    952,953 

Ca^ct  w"il"!^  ^"i^^y.. ^^ ^"^ ^*^^'   '^^''' ^^'°°'' i^anuficiu;^'.) ' '  '^^'  '^ 

Carpet-a:  "   " 

Aubusson,  Axminster,  Moquette,  and  chenille- 
Imports  for  representati\'e  years ,  ^^ 

Manufacturing  process •    .  f;^ 

Production 1/4-175 

Rate  of  duty.. .".'**!.'.'.'; i-.  Hf 

Brussels  and  Wilton —  '^^  ^'^ 

Definition 

Duties  on V.....V...'.'. Mcv-i 

Imports  for  representative  years i-a 

Manufacturing  process ]]  ] "  ] j£° 

178-179 

174 


413 


Production 

Commerce  for  leading  countries..... .. 

Compensatory  duties  in  1867— 

Analysis  of 

Changes  since  1867. . . . .'.'..'. 

Tableof ;'""" 

Imports — 

By  countries 

For  representative  years. 

Ingrain — 

Definition  and  classification 

Dutieson 

Imports  for  representative  years".'. '. '. [ ...'., ', jSi'  ]^i 

Manufacturing  process TqT  loo 

Production ■^®^'"|°^ 

.    ^  ,  providod  for— ^°^ 

Articles  ma^ 


169-171 
.       171 

-  170 

-  173 

-  174 

-  181 
181, 182 


Not  specifically  provided  for 

Articles  made  of  carpet  material ....  ,  <,- 

Duty  on  ^^' 


Imports  for  representative  years l^l 

Tapestry  brussels  and  velvet—                             ' ^^* 

Definition 

Duties  on i  70  i  sn 

Imports  for  representative  years. '  ™ 

Manufacturing  process ™ 

Production f^^ 

181 


jlZ^o 


INDEX. 


INDEX. 


1229 


(jSJBhmeie  (see  aho  Msdi) *?« 

Cassimeres: *" 

Weave-confltniction  of 1080-1217 

Yards  woven  by  individual  weavers '. 1080-1217 

Efficiency  of  individual  weavers 1080-121 7 

Castel  Branco  wool " SS  419 

Central  Asian  wools .......[. 49'  497 

Chaco,  Bheep  raising  in ' 52^ 

Characteristica  of  the  clothing industrv ..[ ' 846-S47 

Charge  per  pound  of  wool  in  United  States 07^ 

Charts  (stffi  aZso  Diagrams):  

Comparison  of  number  of  sheep  in  ranch  States  and  farm  States,  1890-1910         201 
-^=«^nsumption  of  cotton  and  cotton  yarn  in  wool  manufactures,  1860-1910  94 

importation  of  Cla^s  1,  2,  and  3  wools,  shoddy,  rags,  wool  waste,  and  noils" 

1890-1911 203 

"    Jaw  matenals  used  by  all  branches  of  wool  manufacture,  186(>-1910 96 

Raw  wool _    -■      299 

_^Top  pnces,  January,  1907,  to  October,  1911 ' "  opp   644 

^-S^alue  of  products  m  important  branches  of  wool  manufacture  in  United 

btates,  1860-1910 o- 

Cheviot,  fancy  and  plain:  

Weave-construction  of ia«a_i917 

I  arda  woven  by  individual  weavers i  o«n-i  91 7 

±4tiiciency  of  individual  weavers i  nsA_i  9i  7 

Cheviot  sheep 38  444 

China  lamb's  wool,  definition qq  ^qa 

China,  wool  of 4^  4q  4Q4 

Chubut,  sheep  raising  in '     'ton 

lassincation  of  wools: 
Class  1 — 

Adrianople  skin  (Kassapbatchia) 33 

American qcq? 

Australasian 3^ 

Bagdad «« 

Canadian og 

Caatel  Branco Ill ..] .lllll[[[[ 33 

China  lamb's ..........'     33 

Crossbred 00 

Definition  of 3-1 

Egyptian 00  oa 

ii-nglish  (reexports) 35-36 

Merino * 31-32 

Mestiza,  Metz,  and  Metis 1].".  *...*"  ...!. 31  32 

Morocco '  3g 

Russian ot- 

South  African "l^l'.'."'.'."'.'.'.'.'.[[ 35 

South  American oq 

Class  II—  "^ 

^Ipaca 3g  .Q 

Argentina '.a 

Camera  hair 3g 

Canada  long  wools 00  qq  ^a 

Cashmere... ;.".': ::;;;;.':; 38,39,40 

Cotswold QQ 

■T\     £•      -.•  00 

Definition 3g 

Down  combing "-"■■""":;:";:::;;;:;;    33 

f^.SlisJ^ 38,39 

Leicester '30 

Lincoln 00 

Mohair ^5 

Class  III—  ^" 

Central  Asian. ^2 

China ***  At* 

Definition ^i 

East  Indian ^« 

iiiuropean ^« 


Classification  of  wools— Continued.  ^*^' 
Class  III — Continued. 

Native  South  American .^   .« 

Native  Smyrna "  ]  ] tf 

Russian  camel's  hair ^1 

Russian  (Donskoi) ™ 

TTT  1        •  »       •  '  ••---■--•-------.....-.  41 

wools  m  Asia Jj 

Classing  of  fleeces Jn 

ClimaUc  condition  in  the  United  States. ..'. '. qqo 

Cloth  cost  in  men's  clothing  manufacture. ...              e«? 

Cloth  cost,  relation  of,  to  cost  of  clothing. ...          t^t 

Cloth  finishing,  Huddersfield,  England %l 

Cloth-manufacturing  costa,  comparative,  yam  to  finished  cloth ati 

Cloth-manuf actunng  costs,  German  and  American . .                   aqJ 

Cloth  perchers:                                                               "^'^ 

Country  of  birth .  Q^q 

Si'''" '^ '"'"'' :::;:: '988:991,1^3 

sex!^.. ..'.*;;;;;.". ■;;.■:;'; 952,953 

Cloth,  woolen  and  worated: ^^^'  ^^^ 

Commerce  for  leading  countries -,  „« 

Duties  on ioo'ioo  To? 

Exports  from  United  IGngdom i^z,  i^d-125 

Imports—  ^^^ 

Analysis  of  duties -.9.  -,„- 

By  countries io2 

For  1911  ^^^ 

X  ur  x»xx _ 

For  representative  years tit 

anuf acturing  process j^^ 

Natureof    fabrics ™ 

(Production  of—  ^"^^ 

Woolen  fabrics ,9^  ,90 

Worsted  fabrics i^? 

Woolen  and  worsted  fabrics  compared j 90 

Production  in  United  Kingdom  and  Germany....  ." 190  ToS 

Clothing  industry  and  foreign  trade c^a 

Clothing  industry:  °^ 

How  clothing  is  made q_^ 

Investment ■      °^ 

Scope  and  method  of  inquiry  into'.;.*.*.*.*.'.'. ~eS 

Clothing  industry  in  the  United  States.     (See  Wool'manufictiir'es  ) 

Coal  for  sheep  camps ^^  _.. 

Colorado:                                         ^w 

Breed  of  rams  and  ewes  in ^^k  „^^ 

Cost  of  hay  in 605-607 

Smbing'!'^^'^' ^^""^^^  "^"^^  ^^  "^^^^ 

American  charge  for _ 

Comparison  of  American  and  English  cost  .*.". '. ati 

Cost  of,  in  a  continental  plant ^T; 

English  chai-e  for ?jf 

French,  in  the  United  States .";.":;: lH 

German  commission  charges  for ^tj 

Manufacturing  process  of ™ 

On  commission  in  foreign  countries.  ..*;;; iVJ 

Combing  (Bradford  system):                                    " ^^ 

Average  count 

Average  number  of  operatives  per  comb ....                 jnoc 

Average  wage  rates ^  |"^2 

Labor  cost  per  pound ™° 

Number  of  macliinea ™° 

Number  of  operatives jJJ^; 

Productive  efliciency jXoo 

Combing  (French  system):                           ^^^^ 

Average  count 

Average  number  of  operatiVes*  per'comb  '.'.'.'.'.'. S 

Average  wage  rates jjj^" 


1230 


IHDBX. 


Combing  (French  system)— Continued.  Page. 

Labor  cost  per  pound logg 

Number  of  machines ..'..'..'..'.'.'..'""     1029 

Number  of  operatives .......,.......'.['.."     1029 

Productive  efficiency "  1  * ' "  *  1 1 11 1 1030 

Combing  clepartment,  operatives  in '.'.V.'.'.l r950"95i,"986,'996'99i,'994. 998 

{bee  also  Combing  (^Bradford  system),  Combing  (French  Bystem),  and  De- 
partment, employees  by.) 
Combs: 

Number  of  in  United  States 107  256 

Number  of  in  United  Kingdom in?*  ok^ 

Number  of  in  Germany 107  256 

Number  of  in  France 107* 256 

Types  of —  ' 

Heihnan i#u 

Holden 205 

Lister  or  nip jqq 

^«^}?--T ;"":":;;::i:iii:iiii   105 


"Come  back "  wool . 


35 


Commission  charges  for  combing  in  Germany 1 1 1  [      ^44 

Comparative: 

American  and  English  costs  of  constructing  combing  mill 707 

American  and  Engliah  costs  of  constructing  woolen  mill 706 

American  and  English  costs  of  making  worsted  yam  from  tops ...[      650 

American  and  English  costs  of  constructing  worsted  spinning  mill ........      707 

American  and  English  costs  of  constructing  worsted  weaving  mill 708 

Cloth-manufacturing  costs,  from  yam  to  finished  cloth 1 ...  1       651 

Cost  of  making  tops,  United  States  and  abroad '  1 1      645 

Conversdon  and  labor  costs,  from  yam  to  finislied  cloth,  of  American 

fabrics g5l 

Conversion  ct)st  of  different  t\  pes  of  fabrics 1 1 1 1 1 !  1 1 1 !  1 ""  11*  1 1 1 1 1      692 

Cost  of  mill  buildings  and  equipment  in  United  States  and  England .  V."  1 1      705 

\\  ages  and  hours  of  labor 8X3 

Comparison  of  American  and  En|?iish  combing  cost 1 .  M 1 1 . 1 1 1 1 1 !  1 1  ]      644 

Comparison  of  earnings  in  United  States  and  Great  Britain,  woolen  and 

worsted  operatives 825 

Compensatory  duties: 

Blankets I37  138-139 

CfPete Il"*i69^i72*i75,177!l80,182 

Cloths 123, 124-125, 131, 132-133, 135, 625-626 

Dress  goods 146-151 

Flannels   142,143,144 

History  of — 

Act  of  1861 101 

Act  of  1867 I.. ]..[[.[[[  ioi-102 

Act  of  ISKi ]  1  ]  [ !  " .  1  ]  1 ' . .      102 

Act  of  18SK) 1  *  1 . ' "  1 . 1 1      102 

Act  of  1897 ..,.][..[]      102 

Act  of  1909 ..............[..[      102 

Minimum  duties ............[[      103 

Object  and  theory lOX  103 

j^ugs ;.;.'.';.";;.;.'  1 ;.'. .  ' 1 84 

Tops. 104^  107,  G23 

\\  earmg  apparel 155, 158^  164  jqj 

Weigh t  losses  tha t  occ ur  in  tuming  scoured  wool  into  finish vd V 1  ( )th !....[.     '621 

Wc»olen  yam g24 

Worsted  yam [...[.[[.][[      624 

Yam "";;;";". ; "ii4-ii6, 121 

Compensatory  duty  on  cloth 625 

Compensator^'  duty  on  cloth  that  contains  other  materials  than  wi>oll .[..[[][[  626 

Concentration  of  men's  clothing  industry 847 

Concentration  of  women's  clothing  industry !  1 1  ]  1 1 1  892 

Condi  tioning  of  wool : 

Bradford  system 205 

Manufacturing  process 1 . .  1 1 .  [  1 1 1 1 1 1  106 

Cone  drawing ' ' "  *  1 "  ]  ]  1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1  110 

Connecticut,  industry  in,  investigated 1 . .  1 . 1 1  ^  1  ]  1  ^ !  ^  1  [  1 1  ]  1 !  1 1  ]  1 1  [  1 1 1 1 1 1  949 


JISTDEX. 


1231 


Consumption  of  raw  materials  in  United  States  wool  manufactures: 

Animal  hair  of  all  kinds 

Cotton  and  cotton  yam 

--.4i4aterials  used  1870-1910 

Raw  wool 1.1.";  111.;;: 

Shoddy 

Waste  and  noils 

Woolen  rags. 


T&ge. 

90 

93 

97 

88 

92 

91 

92 

Consumption  of  wool  in  Europe  and  North  America ...  1 ;;  1 1 1 ;  1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1       214 

Conversion  cost,  yarn  to  finished  cloth 691-693 

Copies  of  schedules  used  in  the  investigation 631 

Cordova  wools ; i; '42,' 420, 436 

Corn  belt,  character  of  wool  produced  in 559 

Com-belt  farms,  slieep  upon 1 1 1 1       555 

Corrientes,  sheep  raising  in [      523 

Corsican  wool 1 1 1      420 

Cost  in  sheep  industry  of: 
Feeding  sheep  in — 

England 373 

France 373 

Germany 373 

Kentucky 1 1 H      590 

New  Zealand 506 

Ohio  region 111111      355 

Fences  in  Australia 48I 

Forage Ill  111 '341, 596 

Labor.... 339,483,488,507,539,594 

Maintaining  sheep  in  W  isconsin 574 

Maintaining  sheep  in  Minnesota 584-585 

Shearing 338,483^89,513,594 

Sheep  management  in  Great  Britain 450 

Costs  in  wool  growing: 

Comparative  operating  costs  by  countries — 

Forage 34 1-343^  349 

General  and  miscellaneous 335-339'  349 

Investment ^  333 

i-abor ;;;;;;;;;;;;"339-34i 

Summary  of 349-353 

In  eastem  United  States — 

General  remarks  on  expenses 355-356 

Net  charge  against  wool  per  pound  in  representative  eastem  districts, 

tables  of 357-370 

In  England;  Germany,  and  France 373-375 

In  western  United  States — 

l^^pge 311 

Labor 311 

Miscellaneous [      311 

Net  charge  against  wool  per  pound 1  311 

Selling 1      311 

Shearing 311 

Tables  of 1 ; ; ; ; ; ;  *315-332 

Costa  in  wool,  manufactures  of: 

Buildings  and  equipment,  comparative.  United  States  and  England 705 

*    Cloth  manufacturing,  comparative,  yam  to  finished  cloth 651 

Cloth  manufacturing,  German  and  American 694 

Combing,  comparison  of  American  and  English 644 

Combing  in  continental  plant 644 

Constructing  combing  mill  in  America  and  England,  comparative 707 

Constmcting  woolen  mill  in  America  and  England,  comparative 706 

Constructing  worsted  spinning  mill  in  America  and  England,  compara- 
tive        707 

Constructing  worsted  weaving  mill  in  America  and  England,  comparative. .       708 
Conversion  and  labor,  from  yam  to  finished  cloth,  of  American  fabrics. .  651,  693 

Conversion  for  worsted  yarns  in  America 648 

Conversion  from  yarn  to  finished  cloth  on  German-made  fabrics,  compara- 
tive        704 


1232 


INDEX. 


INDEX. 


Costs  in  wool,  manufactures  of— Continued.  page 

Conversion  from  yam  to  finished  cloth,  summary gg^ 

Conversion  of  certain  counts  of  worsted  yarn  from  tops,  comparative 650 

Conversion  of  different  types  of  fabrics,  comparative. .                       692 

Converting  tops  into  worsted  yam 545 

Converting  wool  into  tops  per  pound  of  tops '. 64? 

Juvenile  sweater  coats 934-938 

Labor,  by  processes,  German  spinning  miil.'.'  '.[[[['"I 770 

Labor  per  pound  of  tops  in  United  States 642 

Ladies^  gloves oqg 

Ladies'  hats,  caps,  and  hoods 945 

Ladies'  hose '  *  ] 04? 

Ladies'  skirts 931 

Ladies'  scarfs  and  shawls "l.lll.ll.l..].].] 944 

Ladies'  sweater  coats 


1233 


Ladies'  sweater  vests. 
Lumbermen's  socks. 


921-930 
-   930 
943 


Making  tops ^  .^  ....!..." 639 

United  States  and  abroad 545 

Making  worsted  yarn  from  tops  in  America  and  England,'  comparative  * ' "  650 

Makmg  yam  from  dyed  tops qaq 

Men's  Bathing  suits 920 

Men;s  clothing --.";.".';;-".'.':.*.'.'.*:."  857-864,*  883-891 

Men's  gloves '         04^ 

Men's  half  hose '*"*.**.**."]  ^ .'." 942 

Men's  sweater  coats i  .!."..*!...'."... ." 913-920 

Mill  buildings  and  equipment  in  United  States  and  England.*.* 705 

Misses  sweaters  and  sweater  coats 93'>-934 

Mittens,  ladies'  and  men's "  930 

Selling  and  distribution  of  knit  goods *["!.*!![ 912 

Toques,  ladies' ^4^ 

Women's  clothing I  .^'.I'.l'.l'.ll'.^'.lllll^llllllVmy^m 

Cotewod  sheep 38,445,462 

Cotswold  wool '   qg 

Cotton  warp ' .  " ' 204^ 

Country  of  birth  of  employees:  ^  

By  department  in  which  employed.  .1 950, 951, 952, 953 

By  formerindustry ....960  961 

By  occupation 950,951,952  953 

By  sex 950  951 

.  9?2,  953,  954,  955,  956,  958,  961,  962,  963,  966,"976;977,'978,"979,  980,  98i 

By  time  in  industry 971,972,975,976,979,981 

BytimeinmilL... 971,973,975  977  979 

By  time  in  occupation..    974,975,978,980,981 

{See  also  Nativity  of  employees.) 

Cojote,  losses  from bdS-GOa 

Crio  la  sheep 32,42,524 

CnoUa  wool '     '  3q£ 

Crops,  cost  of  producing  in  Jlinnesota '"'".!."]"! 585 

Crossbred,  flocks  represented 372 

Crossbred  sheep [[ 32*384  444 

Crossbred  wool,  definition,  history,  and  classification " " "     32  38'  384 

Crossbreds:  '     ' 

Scotch 444 

Tendency  toward  breeding 394 

Crutching  in  Australia 437 

''Cuts,"  length  of '.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.[[['.'.'. 1045 

Cyprus  wool * " '      43^^ 

D. 

Damascus  wool 42  431 

Degreasing  process '^'   46 

Delainesheen ■* -'--*-■"".'-'-".'.*.*;;.".' [I  :.*;;;'3i;  354, 547 

Delame  wool 3j  3^^ 

Denmark.    (See  Norway,  Sweden,  anil  Denmark,  and  cWntry'oY  birth*  of    ' 
employees.) 


r 


Department,  employees  by:  page. 

Country  of  buth 950,951,952,953 

Nativity .• 957 

Occupation ]  1*. '.".*.*  950*  95i,' 952,*  953,*  985-996 

^^'' V 950, 951, 952, 953, 990-996 

Hourly  rates  of  wages 935 

986,  987,  988,  989,  990,  99i,*992,*993,*994,"995,*998,'999, 1000 
Depreciation ^iq 

Depreciation  on  sheep: 

In  Ohio 35g 

In  United  States '!**"'][]""!']"]]"]]][]  336 

Depreciation,  percentage  of  allowance  made  on  buildings  and  equipment. . *  *  *. '.  629 

Diagrams  (see  also  Charts) : 

Freights  on  grease  wool,  by  sea  and  railroad,  to  Boston,  Mass opp.  353 

Relative  standing  of  leading  States  as  to  number  of  sheep,  1890  and  i910. .  304 
Steady  increase  in  mutton  supplies  and  diminished  marketing  of  cattle 

and  hogs,  as  shown  by  Chicago  receipts  for  past  45  years 345 

Difiiculties  in  securing  manufacturing  costs 627 

Dipping  of  sheep,  cost  of ".!'.*. ]'.;*.; I".' 483 "503, 599 

Diseases  of  sheep: 

In  Argentina 524 

In  Australia "]"]]][[[][  487 

In  New  Zealand 504 

In  South  Africa ;;.';;;".";'5io,5i3 

InUruguav 535 

Disease,  losses  from 337 

Dishley  sheep 445 

^ogs;.^.... ;;;;";;;;;;";;;;;""";;  562 

Inllhnois 566 

In  Iowa 569 

In  Kansas. ll"""]"]"]"]]"]"]      580 

In  Missouri 573 

In  Ohio 1 ...."].."]]]]][!]]"]  1      356 

In  Tennessee 586 

In  Vermont 545 

In  Wisconsin ...-....."...."*  571  572 

Wild,  in  Argentina " '  524 

Donskoi  wools '..*.'.  ".".".'.'.*.  "41*423,*  424, 425 

Dorset  sheep 449,546,549 

Down  clothing  wools 32  33 

Down  combing  wools '33 

Down  sheep '•'•'^'.'.'." '.'.'.'."'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.' 22^  446,  b4Q 

Drawing:  ' 

Cone 210 

^^cii :";;;";;.":":":;:;:::::;:;:::   no 

Open ijQ 

Process  of ^10 

Systems  of ::;;:;:::::;;:;:::::;;:   no 

Drawere-in: 

Country  of  birth 95Q  95^^ 

Hourly  rates  of  wages *988,*992,*995,*999,"i001, 1003 

Number 950,951 

Drawing  (Bradford  system) :  ' 

Average  count io32 

Average  number  of  operatives  per  drawing  frame '     1032 

Average  wage  rates [[ io32, 1033 

Labor  cost  per  pound 1032, 1033 

Number  of  frames io32 

Number  of  operatives [  "986,'99i,*994, 1029 

Productive  efliciency 1032, 1033 

Wages... 986,991,994 

{See  also  Drawing  department.) 

Drawing  frames: 

Number  of  operatives 1031  1033 

Place  of  make... 1032,103311042 

xToductive  efficiency 1032  1034 

Years  in  operation [  "/i632, 1033^  1042 


IITD'EX., 


Drawing-frame  tenders: 

Country  of  birth 950  951 

Hourly  rates  of  wages • ';'"r986,'987,"99i3»4,908,'999 

Number... 950,951 


8©x. 


950,951 


Drawing  department: 

Difference  in  Bradford  and  Frenci  fiysteiJM 1031 

Operatives  in 930,  951, 986* 987.' 991* 994* 998, 999 

Hourly  rates  of  wages  m 986.987,901,994,998,999 

(6«e  also  Department,   employees  by;  Drawing   (Bradford  system)  snd 
Drawing  ( I  rench  system . ) 

Drawing  (Frenck  system): 

Average  count jq<{| 

Average  number  of  operatives  per  drawing  is%me ........"..'  * '  1034 

Average  wage  rates [[][  2Q34 

Labor  cost  per  pound ].']*'"  1 1  ]!]*'.*"  *  1034 

Number  of  frames 2033 

Number  of  operatives ^i ;;;;;.";"";. ":::;*987,'991, 994 

Productive  efficiency IO34 

Wages  .... .'.*;.-".";;]  r987,'991, 994 

(See  also  Drawing  department.) 
Dress  goods: 

Commerce  for  leading  countries 154 

Compensatory  rates.. *'"";; '.'7147, 148 

Exports  ay  countrie?i I53 

Exports  from  United  Kingdom llllll]lll[[[[[l       154 

Imports — 

Analysis  of j^ 

For  1911 ......[..      149 

For  representative  years '/'      X51 

By  countric?s.. '.'...........       152 

Nature  of ..[.[[[  ..[[[l]l[[      145 

Production ......[........,.[      153 

Production  in  United  Xingdom 154 

Proviso'?. ....145  149 

Under  paniirraph  380 '  147 

Under  paragraph  381 " I49 

Rate»  of  duty.  .1 *  ]  1 .       145  146  147 

Dress  goods,  iadiea%  worsted:  '       ' 

Weave,  construction  of 

Yards  woven  by  individual  wo--  r-"- , ..III.  ..[.[..[[.I 

Efficiency  of  individual  weavi     ,,, 

Dresser  tenders: 

Country  of  birth 

Hourly  rates  of  wages "-""/--"//- T/.'^ls/Joi*  9%,* 99V1 00^ 

^^^h&t 950,951 

Dressing  department.    {See  Department,  employees  by.) 

DrouQfht 


1080-1217 
1080-1217 
1080-1217 

950,  951 


960,951 


In  Australia. 


492 

461 


536 

488 


186 
186 
186 
621 


In  Uruguay ..l[].[[[l[[]]l 

Pro\'ision  against  in  Australia 

Druggets  and  bockings: 

Definition 

Duties  on 

Imports  for  representative  years lllll"'.'.". 

Duties,  compensatory  (see  also  Comi>ensatory  duties) **".".*.'."."*!'"' 

Dutif*  on  raw  wool  (see  also  Rates  of  duty) : 

Ad  valorem,  objection  to .' 394 

Present  system  of  levying,  objections  to '"'.]."."] 392 

Specific 3gg  39g 

iPjed  tope,  cost  of  making  yam  from *"        '648 

Dyehouse  chaises  in  England 794 

Dyehouse  hands  hourly  rates  of  wages ],  OSS," 993,' 1666,'  1664, 1005 

"-Dj^emg  and  lini?hing 7gy 

Dyeing  department.     (See  Department,  emx>ioyee8  by.) 

Dynamite  caitridges,  use  of ,  to  protect  aheep 600 


INDEX, 


1235 


E. 

Earnings.    (See  Hourly  rates  of  wages.)  pag». 

Earnings  in  the  United  States,  Lawrence,  Providence,  and  Philadelphia  dis- 

tnctB , *^  004 

East  India  wools [[ 09  433 

Eastern  and  southeastern  Europe.    (Sei  Country  of  birtJi  of  employees.) ' 

Eastern  States,  sheep  farmmg  in 545 

Eastern  United  States,  woolgrowing  in 353 

Efficiency  of  labor,  German  worsted-spinning  mill 778 

Efficiency  of  machines 1620-1044 

Efficiency  of  weavers,  American  method  of  coinpiita'tio'n  '.'.".'.".* 1047-1048 

By  establishment*.    1049, 1050, 1053,  lOo^"  1655, 1056, 1057 

By  kinds  of  material  woven loSOff 

By  picks  per  inch ".'.V. V.V. V  1053,  lo'si',  YosK  1056, 1057 

£yf^^-%--;; 1053,1054,1055,1056,1057,1058 

SrS  ''^/^^'^r- -..--1049^1057 

By  specified  fabnc 1059, 1060, 1061,  lOSOff 

Opinions  of  manufacturers  concerning 1065-1075 

Production  per  10  hours  on  specified  fabrics 1061-1065 

By  individuals ;^QgQfj 

Egypt,  wool  from 3*3*  3^  435 

Electncians,  hourly  rates  of  wages ] "  936,"  993, 1000, 1001 

Jl.mployees  m  mills  investigated :  »       »         i 


Nativitv^  ^^^' 958,959,960,961 

m^hl 956,957,959,971,972 

n-^^^^fn;; 949,985,986,987,988,989,98^995 

Occupation 950, 951, 952, 953,  956,  985-995,  998-1006 

^^^ -•- 950,951,952,953,955,956,958,961 

.  963,  96G,  974,  975,  976,  977,  978,  979,  980,  981,  99(K995,  998-l(^'io05 

■  Time  m  industry 962,  964,  969,  970,  971,  972,  975, 976, 979,  981 

IZl  ]^  "'''"•-:.■ 963,  964,  965,  967,  968,  971,  973,  975  977  979  980 

Time  m  occupation  967,  968,  969, 970, 972,  974, 975,  978  980  981 

England  (see  also  Great  Britain,  United  Kingdom) :  '       ' 

Cost  of  maintaining  sheep  in 453 

Cost  of  sheep  raisins  in «;S 

Land  rents  and  values  in 07^ 

Place  of  make  of—  ^ 

Carding  machines 1023,1025,1042 

Dmwing  frames 1032  1033  1042 

f^'^^^^""^' 1027  1029  1042 


Mules. 


1042 


Noble  combs lO'^?  1042 

Scouring  machines jq^i  -^q^^ 

Spinning  frames..      ...         '.'..'..'.'.'.'.:::'.[:::":  1035;  1042 

(See  also  C  ountry  of  birth  of  employees.) 

English  charge  for  combing ^4-. 

English  fleece  wools,  shrinkage  of " .' ooq 

English  wools r. :.:;•: m 

Eug  ish  system.    (See  Bradford  system.)  

English  wools 35  og 

Entre  Rios,  sheep  raising  in 593 

Equipment,  investment  in  Western  United  States.* 334 

Estancia,  description  of,  in  Argentina 599  t^on 

Description  of,  in  Uruguay • "  '^ 

Europe,  Class  III  wools  in 4J0 

Ewes,  breed  of,  in  western  flocks '.]!].*!.'.'.".".".".'.'.'.' g05 

Exiierience  of  operatives.     (See  Former  industry;  Time  empioyed  in  indu-t'rY- 
lime  employed  in  mill;  and  Time  employed  m  occiimtion.)  ' 

Exports.    (^€6  Tables.)                                                      '           ^ 
Extent  of  tne  investigation g-t  g 


1236 


INDEX, 


INDEX. 


1237 


Factory  cost  of  meii*8  clothing gga 

Fall  wool,  definition  and  source 30 

Fancy  knit  goods [[ 160  911 

Feed  for  sheep  in  Ohio  region I........... '355 

Feeder  sheep  and  lambe 557 

Feeding,  winter,  in  eoiithweet 601 

Felt-goods  industry  in  the  United  States.    (See  Wool  manufkciiiree ') 

Felt  hats.    (See  Wearing  apparel  of  wool.) 
Felts  not  woven: 

Definition Ig* 

Imports — 

Analysis  of iqa 

For  representative  years jg4 

Manufacturing  process "";;-;";;;];.'"i63-164 

Production jgg 

Rate  of  duty  on ^-^^  ";;;";"";;;;;;;;:."i55, 164 

\\orld  commerce 165-166 

Fences: 

Cost  of,  in  Australia 470  Aai 

Cost  of  maintaining .".'-";;.";;.".'.';;;;.*.*";;.        482 

In  Argentina 530 

In  Australia 478 

In  New  Zealand 507 

In  Uruguay -.*...[.........*      532 

Method  of  construction  in  Australia 400 

Rabbit-proof .....:'.['.['.[:""      m 

Sheep-proof 47g 

Fertilizer,  value  of y.y.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'k6,373 

Filling  yam: 

Color,  as  affecting  piece  price  to  spinners 1017 

Kind,  as  affecting  piece  price  to  spinners ioij  1051 

Size,  as  affecting  piece  price  to  spinners [['"  '  2019 

Fine  delaine  wool 38 

Fines,  German  weaver 700 

Fines,  system  of ;-.';;::;;;;:::;:'i677 1078 

Finishing  department.    (See  Department,  employees  by.)  ' 

Finishing-machine  tenders: 

Country  of  birth 952,953 

Hourly  rates  of  wages 988,995,999,1004,1005 

Kmdofwork 952,953 

N»i™»er 952,953 

^.  .°f.^ .-: 952,953 

I*  mishmg  waists g24 

Flannels  for  underwear: 

Compensatory  duties 142 

Definition 141 

Duties  on — 

Under  paragraph  378 122  142 

Under  paragraph  379 136^142 

Under  paragraph  381 142, 145 

Imports — 

Analysis  of I43 

For  1911 .............l      143 

For  representative  years ...........'.      144 

Production ...........[      144 

Production  and  exports  of  flannels  and  delaines  in  United  Kingdom .'      145 

Fleece,  method  of  handling  in  Australia ; .      343 

Flocks,  crossbred,  number  represented *      372 

Florida,  sheep  conditions  in 547 

Forage  costs,  comparative 341 

Forage  furnished  to  sheep  on  ranges ...............".*."      597 

Fora|^e,  increased  cost  of ....'.'.'.'.      596 

Foreign  costs,  method  adopted  in  securing 630 

Foreign  machinery: 

Extent  of  use  of 1042,1043,1044 

Reasons  for  use 1042, 1043, 1044 

Foreign  wool,  grades  of 3OO 


Page. 

Forest  Service,  charge  for  grazing  by 593 

Former  industry  of  employees: 

By  country  of  birth 959,960,961 

By  nativity 953 

By  sex.  ^' .'.';.'.*.*".*.*;;;.' "958," 959, 961 

Not  gainful,  at  school  or  at  home 958,959,960,961 

Other  textile  industry. 958,959,960,961 

Frame  spinmng  (see  also  Spmmng): 

Average  count iq^q 

Average  number  of  spindles  per  operative 1036 

Average  twist  per  inch ..]!!!][[]]!.]     1036 

Average  wage  rates '..!!."!]][!.]     1036 

Labor  cost  per  pound l"l[][[[[][[[     1036 

Number  of  frames ..[.[]..[[["[     1035 

Number  of  operatives """[["[[     1035 

Number  of  spindles I ....[][[ .[.[[[[     1035 

Productive  efllciency 1036 

France: 

Class  III  wools  in 420 

Comparison  with  leading  manufacturing  countries "[[      255 

Costs  in 373 

Place  of  make  of — 

Drawing  frames 1033 

French  combs 1029 

Gill  boxes l.[.[[[].[[.[[['.     1029 

Mules 1033 

Scouring  machines .....'.     1021 

(See  also  Country  of  birth  of  employees.) 

Production  of  mutton  in 374 

W^ool  manufactures.    (See  Wool  manufactures.) 

Freight,  on  mutton  from  Australia 472 

Freight  rates  in  New  Zealand .'..........".'*      508 

Freights,  rail  and  ocean,  on  raw  wools ]  '351  352 

French  combing  in  the  United  States '  643 

French  drawing  (see  also  Drawing — French  system) "!!].".]'       HO 

French  combs: 

Number 1Q29 

Place  of  make.. ;.";;;;;;;;;;;;.';"i629, 1042 

Years  in  operation 1029,1042 

French  wool 43 

Frozen  mutton  in  Australia 471  472 

G. 

Geelong  wool 453 

General  labor  department.     (See  Department,  employees  by,  and  Mechaiii'cai 
and  general  department.) 

Georgia,  Province  of,  Class  III  wools  in 41  425 

Georgia,  sheep  conditions  in ' 547 

German  and  American  cloth-manufacturing  costs ] "  594 

German  weavers'  efficiency  tests 750 

Germany: 

Class  III  wools  in 421 

Comparison  with  leading  manufacturing  countries [  255 

Costs  in  wool  growing ....'.  373 

Mutton  and  wool  production  in ][  375 

Place  of  make  of — 

Carding  machines io23 

Drawing  frames ['[  io33 

I'rench  combs [[[[  io29 

Gill  boxes ['[  io29 

Ix)oms 1042 

Scouring  machines 1021 

Spinning  frames ]][  1035 

Mules 1038  1040 

(See  also  Country  of  birth  of  employees.) 

"Wool  manufactures.     (See  Wool  manufactures  in  Germany.) 

32080°— H.  Doc.  342,  62-2,  vol  2 40 


12S8 


INDEX. 


INDEX/ 


1239 


Gill-box  tenders:  ^••*' 

Country  of  birth 95^  052 

Hourly  rates  of  wages "**';!*r986^9W*99i,"994* 998, 1002 

5  umtx^ 950, 951 

Gfflboi'e^? ^^»^^^ 

Number JQ07 

Place  of  make    ^"--■-'- ^" -'--.*'".■-*". ■*io27;i629, 1042 

Years  m  operation 1027,1029,1^12 

Gloves:  ' 

Ladies* ooa 

Mens o>4n 

Goats:  »^^ 

.       ^"f^ 40,611 

:         C  ashmere 4q 

Number  of,  in  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  1910.' ....."......[.""..[.. 209 

Goods  sold  below  regular  prices "  ioyg  1079 

Grasses  of  Umi?uay *   ma 

r%         ■         1         1     V     ^if,      ,  Oiyx 

Grazing  lands  in  West kqk 

Greasy  wool 35 

Great' Britain: 

Cost  of  sheep  manaj^ement  in 450-456 

Sheep  fodder  in 452 

Greece,  Class  1 1 1  wool  in .11^^^..... .,...] .[[[[[[      422 

H. 

Definition  and  classification 29  38  41 

Distinction  between  wool  and  hair *.**]].'*.'*..''...'     '  30 

Camel's  hair — 

Countries  of  production 55 

Duty  on — 

Scoured '. _  45  47  53 

Under  proviso  clause .*]....'...'     '48 

Waehea  and  unwashed ]  ]  ]        53 

World's  commerce ..,/..  59-^ 

CameFs  hair,  Russian — 

Classification 41  425 

Duty  on — 

Scoured 47  5^ 

Washe<l  and  unwashed '57 

Imports  for  representative  years "        59 

Mohair,  alpaca,  and  other  similar  hairs- 
Countries  of  production '.,  Ad  ^iH 

Duty—  '^ 

On  scoured 45, 47  53 

Under  proviso  clause '     '43 

Imports  by  countries '[        55 

World's  commerce I"] .[[[[        56 

Hjdf  hose,  men's,  manufacturing  cost  of 942 

Hampshire  sheep [[  *  38,' 447,"  537, 552 

liard  wastes: 

Commerce  for  leading  countriea 73 

Definition 77 

Duty  on V,y/.y  "//..[..[..'.  Gd,  77 

Imports  for  specified  years '73 

Prices  for  thread  waste  in  England .....".'        77 

Production 78 

Harness,  number,  as  affecting  piece  price 'l'6l4  1046 

Haalock  wool '  4^9 

Hats,  caps,  and  hoods,  ladies' I. .......  .[[[]l[[      945 

Heath  wool .*!]']'*      421 

Heilman  comb III. lllll      104 

Herders: 

Negro 5X1 

Number  required  in  United  States 340 

Wagee  of,  in  United  States ]      339 


Herdwick  wool "  * 

Highland  farms,  rent  of 4c? 

Hogg  (or  hogget)  wool qq 

Hoidencomb iac 

Horns  wool iqi 

Hose,  ladies' ^^| 

Hosiery  and  knit-goods  industry  in  the 'uid'ted  'stat^^J '  7^^*  W^f  *,iaiiufai^l 
tures.)  '^  "M*j^ui»\- 

Hothouse  lamba f.^ 

Hourly  rates  of  wages:  ^ 

Method  of  ascertaining,  for  weavers. . .  -irutt 

HouraTl^bor !l  .^.^  *^^P^"°^«^t«  an^  occupations'  ]  .* ! .' ." .'  [  [  [ .'  ] .'  ] .'  ] .' '  985^995,' 998-1000 
How  clothing  is  made ----- ' - ^ ^  1  ] 111 .]]]][[]   ! cIa 

I. 

Iceland,  Class  III  wool  in ^r  .00 

Idaho:  45,422 

Breed  of  rams  and  ewes  in '  c^/i  cno 

Cost  of  hay  in .;;:;: 'Sr 

Grade  of  lambs  in ^ 

Value  of  State  lands  in *   SJ? 

Illinois:  595 

Breeds  of  sheep  used  in Kt!* 

Sales  of  sheep  and  lambs  i:i '....' 25? 

Shearing  of  sheep  in " ' 9^? 

Sheep  farming  in ;_ .  ?J2 

Illustrations:  -5u4,562 

American  merino,  type  A f.        ^..^ 

American  merino,  type  B [ q^JJ'  r^o 

Arizona  wool  awaiting  shipment  at  railroad . . . .'.". nl,S'  rn? 

Australian  stud  ewes OnS  4n 

Australian  merino  ram OnS  4fii 

Blackface  mountain  ram J^ JP*  ^aj. 

Camp  wagons  in  Idaho ^^^'  ™ 

Carbonized  noils X^^  in? 

Cheviot  ram .".V o^^*  121 

Cotswold  shearling  ram J^PP*  j:^ 

Crossbred  Romney  sheep  in  South  America .'.".'. OnS'  ?i o 

Delame  C  type  merino  ram XSS*  Ht 

Dorset  horn  ram n^^' ^ 

Frigorifico  on  Straits  of  Magellan .' : nSS*  ??« 

Hampshire  down  mm o        2S 

Haulmg  pelts  in  South  America ]] OnS*  ?99 

Home  of  an  estanciero  in  Chubut,  Argentina .V.". ".  ] Onn   W 

Kent  or  Romney  Marsh  ram ....^ oES' d?f 

Luicoln  shearling  ram ^PP'  j:^ 

New  white  serge  clippings  from  which  high-g^ade "shoddy" is* m^e'.:;::  Opp.'    67 

oxford'd'o^'ram.".;;;;;:;: ?P^'Yli 

Patagonian  estancia  house n^P'  tia 

Rambouillet  ram n^^*  .}? 

Ring  waste n^^     15 

Scoured  new  wool iJPP*    fjL 

ihSd"^^  ^^^^  ^""^  *^ippJns  vat",  South" America".".". *.".;.".";;;;.; ; :;;::;;;  opp!  520 

Shoddy  ma'de  "from*  old  "white  "sweaters". '.'.." .'.".' n^JJ*    $2 

fehropshu-e  2-8hear  ram rP^'  j,l 

Slabbing Opp.  448 

siubbing waste..'.";;;;.:;:;; ::;:;;:; -  Spp-^?^ 

Southdown  shearling  ram J^PP*  .?! 

Top Opp.  448 

Top  waste ;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;; opp.  104 

Woolen  and  worsted  yams ..;;;; PP'  ,?I 

Worsted  gametted  waste A'       ^l^ 

Worsted,  roving  waste J^PP'    "' 

Opp.    67 


1240 


iHDEX. 


Illustrations— Continued.  ***•* 

Worsted  thread  waste On^     A7 

^"j^j^d  roving :::::::::::::::::::::::::::::  o^^:iM 

Woretedyam Odd  104 

Imperfections:  *^^' 

Correction  of jq^k 

Effect  on  sale  of  goods [[[l ja^q 

Fines  for 1077 

Seconds io78  1079 

Importance  of  woolen  linings  in  the  manufacture  of  clothing*. '   stk 

Imports.     (5'€6  Tables.)  ^  

Improved  wools ^g 

Improvements  in  sheep  industry  in  western  United  States" 310  334 

Income  on  investment  in  sheep  industry *        '  313 

Increase  among  sheep * ^qq 

Increased  cost  of  forage  for  sheep ..V. ........ .]]. 595 

India  and  adjacent  countries,  wof>ls  of 433 

Indiana,  industry  in,  investigated ." . ." 949 

Ind iana,  sheep  farming  in , ....]... 560 

Inefficiency  of  employees  in  mills,  causes 963 

Information  sought  in  clothing  inquiry 354 

Inspectors  or  examiners: 

Country  of  birth 952  953 

Hourly  rates  of  wages .'  .* ."  *988,'992*995,"999'io04,  io05 

^^^^"^ - -.  952,953 

Work  of.:;;;;.;;;;;:.;:: ^^^hml 

Interest:,                                      ^^^^ 

Not  included  in  cost  of  production  of  wool 313 

Kate  of,  in  South  Africa ; ; ; ; gj^g 

Investment  in  sheep  industry: 

Comparative 033 

Income  on 1 ;:;::;::; 313 

Per  head  of  sheep,  how  determined :;;;;;; 313 

Invisible  waste  or  shrinkage  of  tops. 624 

Iowa:  

Dogs  and  wolves  in 5gg 

Shearing  in,... ::;;::::;::::::::::;;  568 

bheep  farmm§:  m 554  5^7 

Size  of  fanns  in '  ggg 

Ireland.    (See  Ireland,  Scotland,  and  Wales  and  Coiintiy  oVbirth  of'employees;) 
Ireland,  Scotland,  and  Wales.     (-S«;fi  Country  of  birth  of  employees.) 

Class  III  wool  in 400 

Wool  manufactures  of :::::::: 255 

(See  also  Country  of  birth  of  employees.) 

J. 

Jaffa  wool 42  431 

Japan,  wool  manufactures  of .......'.'.'.'. '. '. '. '. '. '. '.  [  l '  255 

Jomers,  hourly  rates  of  wages :::::::: 987  991 

jesseimere  wool ::::::::::::::: *  434 

joria  wool ::::::::::::::::::::: 42  433 

Juvenile  sweater  coats ::::]:::::::::::::::::::::.  *  934 

Kaffir  herders,  Drovisions  for 514 

Kaffirs,  wages  of ri? 

Kandahar  wool aq  aqo 

Kansas:  ^^'^^^  . 

Breeds  of  sheep  in gyg 

Dogs  in....... :.::::::::::::::::  ::::::"58o,589 

iSheep  farmmg  in '  gyg 

Karadi  wool ::::::::::: 4'>'4^]  "4^2  4^0 

Karawan  sheep qq 


INDEX. 


1241 


Kasanwool .-  ^' 

Kashgar  wools :.::::: lo*  too 

Kassapbatchia  wool to  ft 

Keiat  wools ::::::: Ai 

Kemp,  description  of ^f  ^ 

Kentucky:                                                      ^^"^ 

Cost  of  keeping  ewe  and  lamb Kon 

Grades  of  wool :.:::: ^jV 

Parasites  in  sheep ::::::: con 

Sheep  farming  in :::::::: Koo 

Western  sheep  in ::::::::::::: 500 

W^oolen  and  worsted  industries  in,  investigated : qJq 

Kevergick  sheep ^^ 

Khorassan  wool : . :  * : 42  41^  49« 

Knit  fabrics,  not  wearing  apparel:  '       ' 

Dutieson t„«  ,^- 

Imports—  i^^,wi 

Analysis  of ,«-, 

For  1911 :::::::::::::: iti 

For  representative  years ^ ::::::: iqo 

By  countries :::::::::::: 132 

Manufacturing  process ::::::::: iQi 

Knit  goods,  cost  of  selling  and  distribution :; nio 

Knit  skirts,  ladies' ;:::::: 931 

Knitting  processes  for  different  garments qi  i 

Kuban  wool :::::::: 41 424 

Labor  in  sheep  raising: 
Cost  of — 

Comparative ooq 

In  Australia ^o^  f  q? 

In  New  Zealand '^ 

In  South  Africa :::::::::: ^i 

Increased  in  the  West cqf 

Efficiency  of,  in  South  America : 2 ^J 

Difficulties  in  Australia aqkI 

In  South  Africa ™75 

In  Uruguay :;" ^i^ 

In  western  United  States ^ 

Miscellaneous ?J? 

Negro,  in  South  Africa iH 

Number  of  herders  employed  in  South  Africa; :::::: 514 

Number  of  men  employed  in  western  United  States . .          ^qS 

Scarcity  of,  in  Australia ^^X 

Union  rates  for,  in  Australia :: 40? 

Labor  costs  in  wool  manufactures:  

By  departments 1021-1041 

By  processes  in  German  worsted  spinning  mVuV.*. 770 

Labor  and  conversion  costs,  comparative,  from  yarn  to  finished '  ciotli;  of 

American  fabrics '  ^q„ 

Per  pound  of  tops  in  United  States '..'..'. ^i 

Ladies' gloves ™ 

Ladies'  hats,  caps,  and  hoods ::::::: qH 

Ladies'  hose ^^ 

Ladies'  knit  skirts.....'..'.".".'."..:: : ™ 

Ladies' scarfs  and  shawls ....::::: qii 

Ladies'  sweater  coats ^^ 

Ladies'  sweater  vests : ^^j: 

Lambing:                                                ^^ 

In  Nebraska 

In  Northwest 2°f 

In  Southwest :.:::::::: ^ 

In  Tennessee ^j: 

In  Uruguay ^°l 

Scarcity  of  water  for llllllli::::::]:: ?Sq 


1242 


Lambiiifr  time: 


INDEX* 


Page. 


Extra  men  for ., 341 

In  southern  California '..'.'..'.]'...       603 

Protection  during !.!..-     600 

Lambing,  witliin  fence:' ""II .].[[[[[      603 

Lamb  loesea ...."".      598 

Lambs: 

Average  price  per  ix>und  in  Chicago  market 348 

Feeders 557 

Hothouse 550 

Increase  of 599 

Increase  of,  in  Australia 487 

Protection  of  at  lambing  time ][       600 

Spring,  raising  in  Tennessee ....."....".      5$<J 

Lftnd  in  relation  to  phecp  growinjr: 

Carrying  capacity  for  eheep,  in  New  Zealand 505 

Freeholds,  profits  on,  in  Australia 439 

Grazing,  character  of,  in  United  States 340 

Grazing,  in  West 595 

In  Queensland 474 

In  South  Africa 5IO 

Leased,  profits  on,  in  Australia 439 

Leases,  m  Australia,  system  of 475 

Leasing  values  of Sg^ 

Leasing  value  of,  in  Utah 596 

Method  of  determining  rental  value 309 

Question  in  Western  United  States 309 

Rents  of,  and  value  in  Australia 474 

System  of  Australia .*.      475 

Unoccupied,  in  Australia 473 

Used  for  sheep  gracing 309 

Values  in  Australia 489 

Lawrence,  Masa. : 

Industrial  depressions  in .' ^2 

Mobilitv  of  labor  in 982 

Leased  lancf,  in  Australia,  exempt  from  taxation 488 

Leaseholds,  in  Australia,  selling  value  of 489 

Ijeasing  of  sheep  ranges 595 

Leicester  sheep 32, 38, 445, 462 

Leicester  wool 38 

Length  of  service  of  employees.    (See  Time  employed  in  industry,  Time  em- 
ployed in  mill,  and  Time  employed  in  ocxnipation.) 
Length  of  service  of  machines.    (See  Machines,  years  in  operation.) 

Letter  of  submittal 7 

Lincoln-Ram  bouillet  eheep 33 

Lincoln  sheep 32, 38, 445, 537 

Lincoln  wool 38 

List  of  mills  in  this  country  from  which  information  was  secured G20 

Lister  or  nip  comb 105 

Locusts: 

In  Argentina 525 

In  Uruguay 536 

London,  sales  of  wool  in 398 

Longwools,  breeds  of 445 

Loom  fixers: 

Country  of  birth 950.  951,  956 

Hourlv  rates  of  wages 988,  992,  999, 1003, 1045 

Nativity 956 

Number 950,  951,  956 

Sex 950,951 

Looms: 

Broad  looms 1044 

Loom  card 1046 

Numl)er 1042,1052 

Number  attended  by  weaver ^-.']045 

Number  of,  in  woolen  and  worsted  industries  of  specified  countries 126, 256 


I 


INDEX.  1243 

Looms — Continued.  p 

Ptowo^ke.!".^'"!'!.'*. .^.'^'^''  '^"'■'"■^'^  ^^  *^  iavestigation 619 

Productive  efficiency ...'.'. inis-i  m? 

Relative  merits  of  American,  English,  and  German 1044 

tS:;.v;.::::;:::;:;;;::;;;;::;::;:; ■.".■.■.■.1647.1049 

Warp  stop  motion ^^ 

Losses  in  sheep  raising: '  ^^*^ 

Among  lambs 

Brte'.".^°^-::::::::::::::::'-'--------- 

From  disease ^L 

From  d<^.    (iS'ee  Dogs.)               ^^^ 

From  poisonous  plants rno 

From  predatory  animals kq^ 

In  New  Mexico ^^° 

Occasional ...'..... S?? 

Loeses  of  Angora  goats "  *  *  ivl 

Losses  and  depreciation  in  New  Zealand! .' cnt 

Louisiana,  sheep  conditions  in ^ 

Lumbermen 's  socks X;.^ 

M. 
Machine  shearing _ 

Record  for.. "'""""^. ^ 

Machines:  **°^ 

By  departments ,^,  ,^- 

Dateofmake T^i  j^f 

Number  of  operatives X{C^\  XicJi 

Placoofmake ;;; inoMm? 

Productive  efficiency \i^\  ^™ 

Years  in  operation lool  inAQ 

Maine,  industry  in,  investigated oio 

Maintenance,  cast  of,  for  British  sheep....  ^L 

Maize,  production  of:  ^^ 

In  South  Africa _„ 

In  Argentina ^*J 

Manchurian  wool fS 

Jianufactures  of  wool .     {See  Wool  manufactures ")' 

Manufactures  of  wool,  not  specially  provided  for: 

Articles  dutiable 

Carriage  robes  and  cloths ."'^""'. Jof 

Commerce  in  woolen  upholstering  goods .        '       laS 

P^tyon ?.t ;;■;;;;: f^ 

Imports —  -  -^-^ 

Analysis  of _„_ 

For  1911 ""'""J. tq^ 

For  representative  years jo? 

Under  "  blanket "  pro\'iso jqT 

Manufacturing  cost:  ^^^ 

Difficulties  in  securing ^„» 

Of  specimen  men's  garments S^ 

Of  specimen  women 's  garments oSi 

Method  of  inquiry  in  to •■••      °^^ 

Maps:  t>^o 

Origfn  5  Cl^  n rwYoTs^^"^  ^^^^""^  ^^"^""^  ^^  ^^^""^^  ""^  *^^  "^^"^  ^^"^ ' '  ^PP"  ^03 

Market.^fluctuations  in  wool".'.".'.". ^PP'  ^J^ 

"Markingup,"lossesfrom,  of  lambs ".'.'.'. fA 

Maiyland,  sheep  conditions  in ^^ 

Massachusetts,  industry  in,  investigated '..   q!q 

Mechanical  and  general  department ."-".'.■;."."."."  '989'993*9q5  1004 


1244 


INDEX. 


Mechanical  equipment  of  mills:  Tnge, 

Carpet  and  rug  mills  in  the  United  States 233 

Hosiery  and  knit-goods  mills  in  the  I'liited  States 238 

ShcKldy  mills  in  the  United  States 216 

Woolen  mills  in  the  United  States 228 

Wool  manufactures  in  France 254 

W^ool  manufactiu-es  in  Germany. 250 

Wool  manufactiures  in  United  Kingdom 244 

Worsted  mills  in  the  United  States 222 

Menders: 

Country  of  birth 952, 953 

Hourly  rates  of  wages 988, 995, 999, 1001 

Imjportance  of  work 1003, 1075 

Nativity 956 

Number 952, 953, 954 

Proportion  of 1075 

Sex 952, 953, 956 

Mending.     (See  Burling  and  mending.) 

Men's  bathing  suits 920 

Men's  clothing: 

Analysis  of  coats  of 856, 864 

Cloth  cost  in 861 

Factory  cost 863 

Men's  garments: 

Costs  traced  from  wool  to  wearer 883 

Specimen,  manufacturing  cost  of 864 

Men's  gloves 940 

Men's  half  hose 942 

Men's  sweater  coats 913 

Merino  blood,  defined 32 

Merino  sheep: 

Mexican 606 

Origin  and  history 31, 32 

Percentage  of,  in  Australia 348 

Per  cent  of,  in  western  flocks 348 

Merino  wool 31,32 

"Merino"  yam Ill 

Merv  wool 42, 427 

Mesopotamia,  wools  from 432 

Message  of  the  President  transmitting  report 3 

Mestiza,  Metz,  and  Metis  wool,  defined 32 

Af ethod  adopted  in  securing  foreign  costs 630 

Methods  of  securing  data 949, 984, 1006, 1078 

Method  of  inquiry  into  cost  of  manufacture 626 

Methods  of  presentation  of  data  of  the  clothing  induetry 854 

Michigan:  " 

Sheep  farming  in 549 

Industry  in,  investigated 949 

Middle  Atlantic  States,  sheep  farming  in 546 

Middle  West,  feeder  eheep  and  lambs  in 557 

Middle  Western  States,  sheep  farming  in 545,551 

Mills  Investigated: 

Number 949 

Location 949 

Mills  investigated  in  this  country,  range  in  size,  and  number  of  employees 619 

Mills,  number  of  woolen  and  worsted,  in  the  United  States,  from  which  informa- 
tion was  secured 620 

Minnesota: 

Average  wool  clip  for 584 

Cost  of  keeping  sheep  in , 584 

Cost  of  producing  crops  in 585 

Pastures  of 586 « 

Sheep  farming  in 583 

Western  sheep  in 583 

Miscellaneous  costs  in  United  States 599 

Misses'  sweaters  and  sweater  coats 932 

Mississippi,  sheep  conditions  in 547 


INDfiX. 


1245 


. 


Missouri:  _  Page. 

Breeding  of  sheep  in 575 

Drawbacks  to  sheep  business  in '"!!!!!! 578 

Pastures  of ..l............. 577 

Plan  of  handling  sheep  in 576 

Shearing  in gy^ 

Sheep  farming  in -'.'.".'-".■.'.■;;;.":;::.*:::::;;::::::"554,575 

Western  sheep  in... 556,576  578 

Mittens,  ladies' and  men  8 933 

Mixing  classes  of  wool,  shoddy,  ete. ,  proviso  of] '. . ...V.". -.'.'.'.'.'.'.'* 50 

Mohair  (see  also  Hair) : 

Amount  of  domestic,  used qii 

Amount  of  imported,  used I" .".[[[[]]]][[]        '   ' *  611 

Definition  and  classification 38  40 

Demand  for  American 612 

Length  of  staple....     ;";!;];;;;;";;;;;;;;'6i2-6i3 

Pounds  sheared  per  head qi^ 

Production  in  the  United  States ..".... 609 

Quality  of  American 613 

Shrinlcage  of !.]...]!"]]" 612 

Sources  of ..*!!]]]]"]!.!  1  * 611 

Uses  of ll[][[[[[[[[[[[[  ] 612 

Value  per  pound "".".."!]".]]]. 613 

Yarns.    (SeeYsLms.) 

Mongolian  wool 499 

Montana: 

*  Breed  of  rams  and  ewes  in 606-608 

Number  of  herders  required  in *  1  "!*!].!."!.!.  1  602 

Shearing  of  sheep  in [[l[l][[[[[[[[[  560 

Montevideo,  grades  of  wool  in !-"."!*."]"!]]]]]]'  301 

Morocco  wools '..,.'.'.'.'. 36  436 

Mule  spinning.     (See  Spinning.)                          ' 

Mimgo  and  flocks: 

Defined g^ 

f^^y- -"'";■;"":"::":::::::::::::  69,84 

^^^^-. 84 

Production 04 

Mutton:  

Angora ^^2 

Breeds  of  sheep  for "  * '  347 

Consumption  of,  in  United  States ..-...*."].........'.]  344 

Export  of  frozen  from  Australia ] 473 

Freight  on,  from  Australia !..........'" 472 

Importance  of 343 

Importance  of  in  South  America 347 

Receipts  from 344 

Mutton  breeds,  per  cent  of.  in  western  United  States . . . . . . .  * . . . . . .' .........'.  348 

N. 

National  forests,  use  of gni  qqa 

Nativity  of  employees:                                                 ' 

By  department 957 

Former  industry ........'.'.'..... 959 

Occupation ."'.*]]...".."........".. 95^ 

^GX g5g 

Time  in  industry 071 

Time  in  mill [][[["]][][[[[[[[ 971 

Time  in  occupation ......"]."..."]"." 972 

(See  also  Country  of  birth  of  employees.) 

Navajo  sheep ^^^ 

Navajo  wool 4-14 

Nebraska:  

Cost  of  producing  crops  in 500 

Pastures  of .........[[ 533 

Sheep  farming  in [."[[[[[][]] sgn 

Weignt  of  fleece .......[...[. 500 

Western  sheep  and  lambs  in i  -"  ^"  -  i .  ^ ! ! !  ^ .  i .  * !  ]  i  ] 531 


1240' 


INDEX. 


Negroes,  labor  of,  in  South  Africa ^**^ 

Nevada,  breed  oi  rams  and  ewes  in ™  ^l^ 

New  England,  Bbeep  conditiona  in '.['. 'r?r 

New  Hampehire,  industry  in,  investicrated .   r^a 

NewJer8ej,mdu3tr}- in,  investigated " Xm 

New  Mexico:  949 

Antia  uity  of  sheep  raising  in „^, 

Breed  of  ramaancf  ewes  in '.'M'.'.'.'.'.] f^lii^/infi  fiA7 

Number  of  men  required wo-<jUO,  WJ7 

Sheep  herders'  wages  in ™ 

New  York^  ^'''^^^'  percentage  of  merino  she^p  in '.  [ ." .' .'  .*  .* .' ." .' ." ." .' ." ." ." ; ; ; ' " " " " ; '  * ;      ^^ 

Industry  in,  investigated 

Sheep  conditions  in ^^^ 

New  Zealand:  546 

Average  railroad  haul 

CaiT>-ingcapacitv  of  lands  for  sheep.;. .'"."." ^2 

Character  of  laud ^^ 

Classes  and  prices  of  wool. .  . .[.][[[. ^^| 

Comparative  costs,  summan'  of. . .     o?n 

Conditions  in *                        ^'^^ 

Costs  in 501 

Cost  of  labor  in *.'.'.'.'.".'.".'.'.' .W ." ^^ 

Cost  of  maintenance  in 507 

Cost  of  miscellaneous  items 506 

Cost  of  production  in .".'*.'.' 508 

Cost  of  ram  service 507 

Biseases  of  sheep  in ..[..][.[ ^^ 

First  sheep  in ""* 

Freight  rates  on  wool ^ 

Future  of  wool  industry 5^ 

General  conditions ' 509 

.Grades  of  wool ^ -..'.'.* ^06 

Grasses  of " .  "  "  ^ ^^ 

Haulage  and  freight. ^ 

Increase  of  sheep  in 508 

Net  charge  against  wool  in ^^5 

Number  of  sheep  in ^ 

Paddock  system  of ^y^ 

Profita  of  wool  industry  in '.'.'.'.'.'. 5?! 

Sales  of  sheep  and  mutton f  JJ^ 

Sheep  industry.    (See  Sheep  industry. ) ^"^ 

feheep  losses  and  depreciation. '.  ^n^ 

Size  of  flocks  in 504 

Taxation  in 503 

Value  of  flocks  in 502 

Value  of  improvements  on'lands.V.'. ".'.'"." fSl 

Value  of  rams ^"" 

New  Zealand  wool:               508 

Method  of  packing 

Net  charge  aErainst f^ 

Nip  or  Lister  comb. ." .' f^ 

Noble  combs:                                           ^"5 

Defined. 

Number ][[] ^^5 

Place  of  make. :xky  ???! 

Noi^^.^"^''"" ■■•"■■■■■■;;•";-■;:■■■■;■■:;-":."::::::;;:::  i^;lw2 

Carbonized 

Commerce  for  leading  countries.*.'.'.'.*. ..'. h.^!; 

Definition '""' ' 

Duty  on "     • 

English  and  American  cias'sificatio'ii .'.'.".'.'. ^^'  !f 

1  rom  recombing i, ' 

Illustration Zx 

73 


INDEX. 


1247 


Noils— Continued.  Page. 
Imports — 

Analysisof » 

By  countries „_  '^ 

For  representative  years -k 

Price  quotations  of —                                    '^ 

In  England ^. 

In  Philadelphia .']].' it 

Production '" • ^* 

North  Carolina,  sheep  conditions  in .....*. .  " f^j 

Northwest 


647 


Equipment  required  for tif\<i  fif\A 

Ranges  of..... ^^'^^i 


Snow  on  ranges  of. 


603 
604 


em- 


onow  on  ranges  or 

Norway.    (See  Norway,  Sweden,  and  Denmark,' and  'Coiintry 'of  "bixth'of 

^OTway,  Sweden,  and  Denmark.    (See  Country  of  birth  of  employees.) 

Number  of  mil'k  from  which  proi^rly'v^'fi'ed  "inforiiak'ti^'w^'obtei'ned ^'619 

Number  of  peisons  employed  in  milla  covered  by  the  investigation .'.*.';;      619 


0. 


Objects  of  investigation .... 
Ocean  freights  on  raw  wool. . 
Occupation  of  employees  by: 


949 
351 


Uourly  rates  of  wages....!..?: V  ""///"/.::::■  it^l'^^ 


Nativity 

Sex 


955,  956, 957 

Upon  which  effici;ncy' mainl'y  'depends::.'.*.'.'. ^'^'  ^^^'  ^^^'  ^^^'  2^| 

Odessa  wool „r  .^? 

Ohio:  35,42o 

Depreciation  in  sheep  of or-|. 

Industry  in,  investigated :::::::::: ^ 

Methods  of  computing  cost  in ^?? 

Shrinkage  of  wool  in []] ™ 

Woolgrowing  sections  in : ^^ 

Ontario,  Province  of,  sheep  in :] : : ^ 

Open  drawing |5b 

Oporto  wool :::::::::: 

Oregon,  breed  of  rams  and  ewes'iii'.V.'.*.: : : : : ^/^  ii? 

Orfa  wool ^^»  "^7 

Overcoatings  and  cloakings: 42, 431 

Fancy  and  plain — 

Weave,  construction  of inRA-i9TT 

Yards  woven  by  individual  weavers IftRolT^T^ 

Efficiency  of  individual  weavera  on ::::::::;:;:::::  10^1217 

nm«a  *^«  38,39,"447,'448,549,552 

P. 

Pacputan  wool 

Paddock  system ::::::: ^^*  ^^ 

Paddock  system,  valueof ^^'^ 

Paddocks,  size  of,  in  Australia '.'.: ^°2 

Panderma  wool . .' ^'9 

Paragraphs  of  Schedule  "k : 42, 430 

360— Clajgsification 

361— Class  I  wools 29 

362— Class  II  wools ^1 

363— Class  III  wools ::::::::::::: 5^ 

364 — Treasury  samples : . : ^^ 

365 — Improved  wools ^^ 

366  and  367— Unwashed,  wa^hed^  'and  'sc'oii'e'd  'wwis" : : : : : : : : : : : : : : :;;;;;        45 


Oxford  down  sheep. . 


1248 


INDEX. 


INDEX. 


1249 


ParagraplM  of  Schedule  K— Continued.  '^ 

368 — Sorting  clause ^g 

369— Duties  on  Class  I  and  II  wools -*'".*!.***.* 5? 

370— Duties  on  Class  III  wools 56 

371 — Wools  on  the  skin Jl 

372— Soft  wastes I'-'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.]'.'.'"  67 

373 — Shoddy,  noils,  and  hard  wastes 69 

374 — ^Woolen  rags,  mungo,  and  flocks 70 

375— Tops il^ 

376-"Basket"  clause '.'. i}l 

377— Yams ll'.'.'.'.'.'.'.l'. .['.[['.'.'.  .I]]]]]'.]  lu 

37»— Cloths,  knit  fabrics,  and  unspecified  manufactures  of  wool. ..., 122 

379 — Blankets  and  flannel  for  underwear. .          ^  i  o« 

380  and  381— Dress  goods ."*".'.'.' 145 

382— Wearing  apparel  and  felts .' 1 55 

383 — ^Wool small  wares "[[[[[[[[[ 16A 

384— Aubusson,  Axminster,  moquette,  and  chenilie  carpets . . .  .]!..'.'["'*  174 

385  and  386 — Brussels  and  Wilton  carpets 17Q 

387  and  388 — ^Tapestry  Brussels  and  tapestry  velvet  carpets        l  7Q 

389 and  390— Ingrain  carpets to? 

391— Rugs '.  .V.'.'.'.'. 183 

392— Druggets  and  bockings I. "[.I. ..[..[[[][[ I86 

393— Carpets,  not  specially  provided  for .'   jgy 

394— Articles  made  of  carpet  material j 07 

Parasites  among  sheep  in : 

Great  Britain aaq 

Kansas koq 

f«*Sr''^^ ;::::.:;::;;:::;::::::::::;:::::;::::::   589 

Capacity  of,  in  Nebraska 500 

In  Minnesota rgc 

Fassaic-Paterson  district: 

Industrial  depressions  in * 902 

Mobility  of  labor  in ago 

Patagonia,  sheep  raising  in 591 

Pennsylvania,  industry  in,  investigated [l[[][[[[[ 949 

Percentage  analysis  of  men's  clothing  costs ] .' 859-860 

Percentage  of  employees  in  mills  in  this  country  covered  by  the  investigation  619 

Percentage  of  looms  in  this  country  covered  by  the  investigation 619 

Persia,  Khorassan  wools *"  498 

Persian  sheep ]..."[[."[[[[[ 510 

Peruvian  sheep o« 

Philadelphia:                               ^ 

Industrial  depressions  in ogo 

Mobility  of  labor  in 982 

Picklock  wool OT 

Picks:                                              "^^ 

Definition. ^O^y 

Per  inch,  as  affecting  production  and  efficiency.*.".'.'. '.]..' 1046 

jy        .     ,  ^    ,,  1048, 1054-1057, 1059-1061,1663,' 1064,' 1665,1080 

Per  minute  or  speed  of  loom,  as  affecting  production  and  efficiency  1046 

Piece  d  ein                               ^^^'  1054-1057, 1059-1061, 1063, 1064, 1065,  and  teble  80 
Piece  price:  

E^j^f  ^«.^^™^°^^g 1014,1015,1045 

Paid  to  spinners 1016^1019 

.  raid  to  weavers 1010-1016 

Pieceworkers,  basis  of  piece  price ........!.....[." 1045 

Place  of  make  of  machines \ko^  laio 

Plushes  and  pile  fabrics:  luzi-iwd 

Commerce  for  leading  countries 134' 

Imports —  

Analvsisof i«« 

For  1911 -^'*''';;.*.*"i;";. '";;;. ■;.*;; 133 

For  representative  years ] 133 

Nature  of -.00 

Rates  of  duty ,]'[ i'>2  132 


Page. 

Poisonous  plants,  losses  from * 593 

Port  Phillip  wool .''*.*.*"'**'.''".'*...  35 

Portugal,  Class  III  wools  in 419 

Predatory  animals: 

Bounties  for  killing 598 

In  South  Africa 513 

Losses  from .'.'..I'.'.'...]]'.'.'.'."'.  598 

Premiums,  paid  to  weavers. joiO 

Preparatory  processes,  waste  in ][[[  624 

Pre\doua  exjyerience.    (See  Former  industry  of  employees.) 
Price  quotations  of  wool,  tops,  yarns,  etc.: 

Alpaca,  mohair,  and  cashmere  in  England 41 

American  wools  in  Boston .[[.[[[[l  36 

Aiigentina  Lincoln  wcols  in  England [,  40 

Australasian  wools  in  London "  34 

English  wools  in  England [[  39 

Foreign  wools  in  England []  213 

Gametted  waste  and  laps  in  England *]  68 

Noils  in  England 74 

Noils  in  Philadelphia,  Pa ]*  74 

Rags,  American,  m  Dewsbury,  England gl 

Rags  in  Dewsbury,  England 82 

Rags  in  United  States ,[  80 

Shoddies  in  England 71 

Shoddies  in  United  States [,[  70 

South  African  wools  in  London 35 

South  American  wools  in  London 34 

Third-class  wools  in  London 44 

Tops  in  England ]  106 

Worsted  and  hair  yarns  in  England 114 

Worsted  thread  waste  in  England 77 

Prices  of  wool  and  mutton  for  1909-10 [  376 

Problem  of  arriving  at  cost 626 

Production  of  hair: 

Mohair  in  South  Africa 55 

Mohair  and  goat  hair  in  United  States,  1909 56 

Production  of  manufactures  of  wool: 
France — 

Tops 254 

Woolen  yarns 118,  254 

Worsted  yarns .'..'.   120,'  254 

Germany — 

Carded  woolen  fabrics 252 

Carded  woolen  yarn 252 

Shoddy ].;;  252 

Tops... 261 

Worsted  yam 251 

Japan — 

Flannel 255 

Mousseline  delaine 255 

Rugs  and  shawls 255 

Wool  blankets 255 

Wool  cloth *  255 

Wool  serge 255 

United  Kingdom- 
Blankets 141 

Carpets [  174 

Dress  goods 154 

Flannels  and  delaines 145 

Mohair  and  alpaca  yarns 12I 

Shoddy [  72 

Small  wares ,[  igg 

Total  output  for  1907 ]]  246 

Woolen  and  worsted  tissues,  excluding  dress  goods 129 

Woolen  yarns [  jjg 

Worsted  yams [[[  12D 


1250 


IIf,DKX. 


INDEX. 


1251 


Pnxiuction  of  manufactures  of  wool— Coutiuued.  Pace. 

United  Statea — 

All-wool  and  cotton-warp  carriage  mbea  and  cloths 136  231 

All-wool  woven  goods '.'.'.'.'"  224  230 

All-woreted  fabrics  for  men's  wear "  '  127 

Blankets. .....'.]..  ^  140230  231 

Cotton-mixed  and  cotton- warp  woven  goods '. T    * 225 

Cotton-mixed  woven  goods .l][[[[]      231 

[       Cotton-mixed  woven  goods  for  men's  wi'u.  r 128 

Cotton-warp  woven  goods 231 

Dress  goods "['.'.'.[['.Ill      153 

Felt  goods 265 

Flannels  for  underwear 1 44  ocm  901 

ose  and  naif  hose 159 

Knit  fancies ll[[[[".".'      Kjl 

Knit  underwear ia^-lGO 

Men's  clothing -^^  ;;;;;;;;;];.**iG2-iG3, 241 

-Noils 'jQ 

Shoddy [[.[[[[[[['.'.[['.[[[[[[['"        72 

Tops  and  slubbings [.[.[[[[[[  io7-108 

Women's  clothing ....*....]*  1G3  242 

Wool-felt  hats [[[[[[[[[[[[lllll . .     '  157 

Wool-filled  woven  goods  for  men  s  wear llllllllllll       129 

Wool  waste llllllllll        78 

Woolen  yams [[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[      117 

Worsted  yams [[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[I      119 

Worsted-filled  woven  goods  for  men  "s  \vc:ir [[ 127 

Production  of  raw  W(X)1 : 

Argentina,  1010 209 

Australia,  1909 205 

British  South  Africa,  1908-1910 [[. 2O8 

Leading  countries,  1900-1910 66 

, New  Zealand,  1909 207 

-  IJnited  States — 

\  Exclusive  of  pulled  wool,  1890-1911 205 

\  By  States,  1910 " "  *  G4-65 

1  Washed  and  unwashed,  1890-1910 g4 

Uruguay,  1910 [       209 

Profits,  in  New  Zealand 509 

Proportion  of  industry  in  mills  investigated 949 

Providence,  R.  I.:  , 

Industrial  depressions  in •,  _  9g2 

Mobility  of  labor  in l. lllll...   II 982 

Provisions: 
Cost  of — 

In  Australia 4g4 

In  New  Zealand ..lllll     I         .'       507 

In  South  Africa V.lV.lllllllllV"SS.^.       514 ' 

In  South  America. ..ll.l.lllllllV.l      540 

Increased  cost  of IIIIII.V..I.S/S.   I  594 ' 

List  of "[  ':  595 

Pulled  wool : 

Definition gO 

Process  of  pullinn- aa-e.i 

Production g2 

Pure-bred  sheep  in  Argentina 1 529 

Pyrenean  wool 1  43  420 

Queensland: 

Lands  in 474 

Percentage  of  merino  sheep  in lllllllllllll      348' 

R. 

Rabbits,  destruction  of  Australian.. , 479 

Rags,  woolen: 

Collection  of 79 

Commerce  for  leading  countries llllllllll  83 


11 


' 


RagM,  woolen — Continued.  Pase. 

Definition ^g 

Exports llllllllllllllllllll 82 

Imports,  analysis  of ] go 

New -clip  business. "  "  "  ] gn 

Price  quotations — 

American  and  other  rags  i:i  England 01 

In  United  States ...Ill gn 

Rate  of  duty lllllll 69  8*^ 

Railways,  building  of,  in  Australia 49J 

Bambouillet  sheep ;;;;-"3i,'354;537,547 

In  Argentina '  529 

In  South  Africa ki  2 

In  Uruguay [[[[[lllllllllllllllllllZl  537 

Rams: 

Breed  of,  in  western  flocks qq^ 

Cost  of  service  in  New  Zealand lll.lllll 508 

Range  in  size  of  cloth-making  mills lllllllllllll  C19 

Range  in  size  of  mills  investigated  in  this  country l.llllll (J19 

Ranges,  carrying  capacity  in  Southwest  for  sheep fioi 

Ratesof  duty,  act  of  1909:  

^^^^^ 136-137 

^ocking^ ^QQ 

Carpets — 

l^busso^ 174  175 

^°f*^^ 174  175 

Brussels 17^'  -.^^ 

Chenille 174  17^ 

Jf^^^^; 181  182 

Moquette 17^' ,  y^ 

Not  specially  provided  for .    *  -igy 

Saxony llllllllllllH {jq  yj^f 

Tapestry  brussels  and  velvet T'o'  i  an 

Tournay  velvet i-rp  \^ 

VJiWan  i^i^,  in 

Cloth,  woolen  and  worsted 199  lii 

Dress  goods ' --".■.'.■-■.".:■.;::'.:::: utut 

Druggets ^^^]ll 

Felts  ^^^ 

Flannels y^  lor  i5o 

Hair- 122,136,142 

Camel's,  Class  II — 

*  Scoured 45  47  k^ 

Washed  and  unwashed ..."..". '       co 

Mohair,  alpaca,  and  other  like  hair —  

Scoured 4^;  47  ko 

Washed  and  unwashed .'.".".' 51  S^ 

Russian  camel's  hair —  ' 

Scoured 47  57 

Washed  and  unwashed .* . ' ' 'Si 

Hard  wastes I. llllllllllll   '  69  77 

Knit  fabrics,  not  wearing  apparel ----."]]"  i22  131 

Manufactures  of  wool  not  specially  provided  for ] 122'  1S4 

Mats,  rugs  for  floor,  etc '  itl 

:^^i^f 69  75 

Plushes  and  pile  fabrics *   '192132 

g^'^^l^n -------.;'-""";.'. .^69,82 

i3% 183,184 

Shoddy A  7, 

Slubbing ;   109  110 

Small  wares  of  wool igg*  -.^^ 

Soft  wastes 1 .1  .llllllllll  67  68 

^^ps 204  107 

Wearing  apparel .".'.".*.'.*        '  155 


1^52  nq-DEx. 

Rates  of  duty,  act  of  1909~Coiitiniied.  «._ 

Wool —  ^**** 

Carbonked 

Carded 109,110 

Class  I—  109,110 

Scoured -. 

Unwashed 45, 47 

Washed 51 

ClassII—  45,47 

Scoured 

Washed  and  unwashed. .'.V.'.'.;.".*." ;=  f5*H 

Class  in—  45,47.53 

Scoured 

Washed  and  unwashed.... -:  45,47 

Skirted 4o,47.56 

Sorted ' 48 

Wool  extract 48 

Wool  on  the  skin '.'*. 69,71 

Yams .;;;;; co,6i 

Rates  of  wages.    {See  Hourly  rate's  of  waces  ) ^^^'  ^^^ 

^^^Jt^^^^^  ^?  7^^  manufactures  of  United  States: 
^i?^t«iief  matenals  consumed,  1870-1910. . 

Competition  between  woolen  and  worated  industries'. SI 

Consumption  of—  86 

Animal  hair 

Cotton  and  cotton  yarn. !.'..*.".*..'. .' ^2 

Raw  wool  in  condition  purchased.. ';"*.* ^q 

Shoddy 88 

Wool  waste  and  noils ^2 

Woolenrags 91 

Effect  of—                        92 

Duties  on  noils  and  wastes 

Duty  on  greasy  wool V.'.V.'. ?! 

Dutvonshoddy '              oo 

No  double  duty  on  washed  'cYa^s 'll  wtoIs*. '.'. 11 

Tnple  duty  on  scoured  wool °9 

Effect  of  fashion  in—                    90 

England 

l^rance oo 

United  States                 ^6 

Materials  used  by 'viriourbranche's'. '.;;.'." ^®'fj 

Use  of  cotton  in —  95 

Hosiery  and  knit-goods  industry q^ 

Woolen  and  worsted  industry....  «X 

Ready-made  clothing 93 

Output '.'...'.'.v.. ^^ 

Women's ^46 

Receipts:  892 

Average  from  wool 

Comparative ^^ 

From  flock ."....].. ^**2 

From  sheep ....]... ^1^ 

Per  head,  m—  311 

Australia 

South  America *  **.' f49 

Western  United  States jf9 

Recoverable  value  of  the  wastes  in  weaving.".;.*;;;;. If. 

Kelation  of  cloth  cost  to  total  cost  of  women 's  clothing ;;;;;:; S^f 

Relation  of  cost  of  c  oth  to  cost  of  clothing ^  kj^f^ 

Relative  net  mill  prices  of  English  cloths  and  similar  Ame'riraii" fabrics 7^  ' 

Relative  pncea  of  cloths,  English  and  American, . .  .  _  ^"^*"^  ^^^^"^'^ ^04 

Kelative  standing  of  States '04 

Rent  of  Highland  farms ^04 

S^^^^jf"^^''?^^'''^^^*^^^'^^^^^*^*^^^^^^  ^aJ 

Rhode  Island,  industiy  m,  investigated.....  ^ 


lOTEx.  1253 

Rio  N^fro: 

Sheep  raising  in I*a««. 

Woolof 521 

River  Plate,  wools,  shrinkage  of 521 

Romney  Marsh  sheep 384 

Roving,  weight  of .';7;. 38,446,501,537 

Rugs:  623 

Classification 

Duties  on 183 

.        Exports  from  the  Ottoman 'Empire*,*  by  countries "^^^'  1^^ 

Imports  for  repreoentative  years  ^""^^ries ^gg 

Production /        185 

Russia,  wool  manufactures'.'. ] 185 

Russian  camel's  hair 255 

Russian  wool 41,43,426 

Shrinkage  of ;;;;;; 35,41,423 

424 

s. 

Sales  of  wool  in  London,  etc 

Savolga  wool 520 

Saxon  merino  sheep ;; 4Q,  424 

Scab:  3x 

In  Argentina 

In  New  Zealand 524 

In  Uruguay '\ 504 

In  South  Africa 536 

Scarfs  and  shawls...  513 

^.quipmentand  maintenance,  woolen  mill 

Equipment  and  maintenance,  worsted  mill ^38 

General  expense 039 

General  iuformation...       G36 

JayroU G31 

Total  production G37 

Top  making ;;; 637 

Woolen-cloth  making 631 

Woolen-yarn  making 635 

Worsted-cloth  making.           634 

VVorsted-yarn  making....;; 633 

bcope  and  method  of  clothing  inquirv ^32 

Scotch  black-faced,  or  Highland  wool.'. 852 

7^L)^'''  '"^"^''  '^^*^^^'  --^'^^ai;;;'a;id  Country  of-bi;d^-of^:  ''' 

Scoured  wool,  duty  on... 

Scouring:  45,396 

Definition 

Methods  of ;;; 45,46 

Process  of 46 

Scouring  department,  operatives'in 46 

Country  of  birth 

Hourly  rates  of  wages.*.*.'. ] ; * 950, 951 

Number 985,990 

Productive  efficiency".'.*..' 950, 951 

Sex 1022 

Scouring  machines:         950, 951 

Number 

Number  of  bo'wlV.". '.  .* 1020, 1021 

Number  of  operatives. . .    1020 

Place  of  make 1020 

Productive  efficiency.*.".; 1021,1042 

Years  in  operation 1022 

Seconds,  proportion  of ;.';;;." 1021, 1042 

.     320S0°-H.  Doc.  342,  62-2,  voi  2^1^41 1078-1079 


1264 


INDEX. 


Serge: 

Fancy  and  plain- 
Weave,  construction  of 1080-1217 

iMda  woven  by  individual  weavera .......,,,....  1080-1217 

^       Efficiency  of  individual  weavers .  1080-1217 

Sowing.    (See  Burling  and  mending.) 

Sex  ofemployees: 

By  country  of  birth 950 

051,  952, 953  955, 956, 958,  961, 963, 966, 974, 975,"976;977;978,'979,*980,  981 

By  department  m  which  employed 950, 951, 952, 953. 996, 997 

By  former  mdustry 958,959  961 

By  nativity '  95g 

By  occui)ation 950,"  95i"  952,*  953, 956 

By  tame  m  industry 902, 975, 976, 979, 981 

BytimeinniilL... 963,975,977,979,980 

By  time  inoccupation 966,975,978,980  981 

Efficiency  of  weavers  by       1053-i057 

onawls .     (JS ee  vv  eanng  apparel . ) 

Shawls  and  scarfs q^ 

Shearers,  wages  in  Australia 405 

Shearing:  

CMt'^f— '''^''^ 485,594 

In  Auatmlia. 333  483-489 

In  boutn  America ggg 

In  South  Africa .!.."...*.'... 513 

In  United  States .1..... 333 

In  Australia,  method  of  handling  fleeces V... .[....["[" ."]]].',  337-338 

In  Iowa "'  ego 

In  Illinois '.'......[... 565 

In  Missouri ......".[..... 577 


In  Montana. 


560 


In  Tennessee ^gj 

In  Uruguay I ^llllll"'.".:" "[[["[[[      535 

In  v\  isconsm 573 

Semiyearly f-no 

Sheep:  ' ^^^ 

American  merino 31,353,548,552 

Blackface [  38  444 

Breeds  of—  ' 

In  Argentina    524_528 

In  Oreat  Britain 443-449 

In  Illinow •..............[......        564 

In  Kansas /...../.. 579 

In  Uruguay ."....'!.... 537 

Breeding  of,  weaterii  range II.. [].[[[[ 004 

Cabretta '" 3q 

Cheviot. .........................38  444 

Cost  of  maintaining  in  England *  *  *       '  453 

Cotswold 38  445 

9[^**^lf-; --'-'". '-'*.* '32, 42,' 524 

Crosebreds \q  aaa 

Delaines gj  54^ 

Dishley  Merino !"'.."......!..]] '  445 

^"^^ -.-;';.'.*!; '-"7449,"  546, 549 

H^^°  - :  *. 32, 446, 546 

Hampshire 38,447,448,549,552 

Karawan '33 

Keveigick 1 .."'!..! ." 33 

Leicester T. "  ! ". '.  ] '.  32,*  38,"  445, 462 

Xfincoin 32  sa  445  fYQ7 

Lincoln-Rambouillet '     '       '33 

Longwoola *  -  *  -  -  - 1  - ! ."  1 .  "  ]  1 !  1 ! ."  ]  1  ] " ! ! !  ] "       445 

Louses  of .    (•See  Losses  in  sheep  raising.) 

Merino. 31  32 

Number  of.    {Set  Sheep  industry.) ' 

Humber  of,  in  specified  coimtries  not  separately  discussed 211 


INDEX.  1255 

Sheep — Continued. 

Oxford  Down „o  on  ^^*  ..™       ^'*** 

Peruvian *.....'.'.''**" 38-39,447,448,549,552 

Rambouillct •- 33 

Eomney 31,854,537,547 

Romney-Marsh *"".'.".".".".".'." 32,446,501,537 

Saxon  Merino 38 

shippingof,in\ve8t....v.;;;;;;'" 31, 462 

Shropshire 'qo'oo":::*::^":;:.:--      ^^ 

Spanish  Merino :..:;;;;; 32,38,444,448,637,549,552 

South  Down ** 31,33 

Suffolk  Down ".'.;.* .'."."'.'.■.■ 447,462,537 

Sheep  farming  in:  447 

Eastern  States 

Illinois ''''^'""". 545 

Indiana 562 

Iowa " " ' 560 

Kansas 567 

Kentucky \ 579 

Middle  Atlantic  States, ^88 

Middle  Western  States ".. -  ^  f46 

Minnesota 545, 551 

Missouri 583 

Nebraska ^75 

Southern  States. . .    ■     - 580 

Tennessee .".'.*.".'.*.' ^45, 547 

Wisconsin 58G 

Sheep  industry  in : 570 

Australia — 

American  demand  for  wool . „q 

Character  and  cost  of  labor ;qq  ^of 

Classification,  by  area  of  holdings ." 'onS 

CLossification,  by  States  and  size  of  flocks. on- 
Comparative  costs  by  countries.     {Se€  Costs  in' w,;^!  'griwinV  ) 

Distribution  and  breeds  of  sheep. ^"'^"lo-; 

Division  and  cost  of  fences...  ^-vIoT 

Diseases,  nature  of ^'  ^»  481 

Future  of  the  industry...."..".'.'.".'.'. •* ^^^ 

General  review 490 

Influence  of  climate :^„  ^^^ 

Land  taxation ."■ 462, 46a 

Maiket  prices 476 

Number  of  sheep. .  467 

Paddock  system.... ".;.'; 205,305,492 

Pastoral  lands 477 

Production  and  export  of  wool.'.'.'.'.",  ".i .'.".'.'  .'^  ^ .' 90^ 'hWi  "acp  f q? 

Rents  of  leaseholds -it^o,  207, 466, 493 

Returns  from  the  industry.'.'.*.'.' ^^^ 

Surplus  stock  and  the  mut'ton'trade" f?? 

Tenures 471 

Working  cost 475 

British  South  Africa— 488 

Comparative  statements  of  general  costa qQo.Qr:o 

Distribution  of  sheep d^d-352 

General  review. .  208 

Number  of  slieei.,  by'subdivisioM;  'ii*  igio: .' ^  -  -  -  •  306, 509-515 

Production  of  wool.  ^^ 

NewZealand—  208 

Average  size  of  flocks 

By  breeds,  1911 207,503 

Comparative  statements  of  general  costs*.'.".".  ;.'.'.* ^qq  ??? 

Distribution  and  breeds " " "  * AW-352 

Future  of  the  industry 207 

General  conditions .'  '..*.".* *      509 

General  review \\ 601-609 

N  umber  of  sheep.  ..".'.".*..'..  306 

Number  and  size  of  flocks... ..        ,' 207 

Production  of  wool 207 

207 


1256 


IITOEX. 


Sheep  industry  in — Cbntinued. 
South  America— 

Comi)arative  costa  by  countries.    (-Sec  Costs  in  wool  growing.) 

Distribution  and  breeds  of  sheep 209-210, 528, 537 

General  conditions '519-541 

General  review ..,..      305 

IJuinber  of  sheep  in  Argentina,  by  provinces,  1908 ..".!["      210 

Number  of  sheep  in  Argentina,  by  breeds,  1908 210 

-"    Total  investment  in  sheep  in  Uruguay [      540 

Wool  produced [[      209 

United  Kingdom — 

Comparison  with  United  States 199 

Cost  of  sheep  management 450-656 

Number  of  sheep  and  lambs,  1910 ' . .      199 

Size,  etc '."      200 

Types  of  sheep,  description  of 443.449 

United  States- 
Classification  of  sheep  by  ranch  and  farm  States — 

Chart  of 201 

Table  of 200 

Comparison  of  leading  States  in  number  of  sheep — 

Diagram  of 304 

Table  of 305 

Comparison  with  United  Kingdom 199 

Competition  with  foreign  wools 301 

General  review I95 

Grades  of  wool 299-300 

Number  of  sheep  by  States,  1860-1910 196 

Number  of  sheep  and  lambs  in  1910 198 

Phases  of 302 

Production  of  wool 204 

Sheep  farming  in  the  Eastern,  Southern,  and  Middle  Western  States.  445-590 
Sheep  ranching  in  the  Western  States — 

Capitalization,  equipment  and  receipts — 

General  comment 308 

Charges  per  pound  of  wool — 

Methods  of  ascertaining 311-313 

Tables  of..,..* 315-325,327-332 

Comparative  operating  costs  by  countries — 

Costs  in  England ,  France,  and  Germany 373-377 

Costs  in  New  Zealand 348 

Forage 341-342 

General  and  miscellaneous 335-339 

Investment 333-335 

Labor 339-341 

Mutton  and  its  relation  to  costs 343-348 

Receipts 342 

Summary  of 349-353 

Depreciation 310 

Expenses  of  operation 311 

General  review  of 593-616 

Losses,  nature  of 310 

Problem  of  land  values 309 

Receipts 311 

Woolgrowmg  in  the  Eastern  States — 

General  comment 353-355 

Method  of  computing  costs  in  Ohio  region 355-356 

Prod uction  of  Merino  wool ,  tables  of  chaiges  against  wool .  357-367, 368-373 
Sheep,  investment  per  head: 

How  determined ,   313 

In  Australia 333 

In  South  America 333 

In  western  United  States 333 

Sheep  ranching  in  the  western  United  States 591 


INDEX.  1257 

Shoddy: 

Commerce  for  leading  countries l®* 

Definition "3 

Duty  on  shoddy  and  wool  extract.".'.'.'. ««  S? 

Exports '[ 69,71 

Grades  of  shoddy '.'.'.'.'.'.'..'. In 

Illustration  of  shoddy .....![ IS 

Imports 7? 

Manufacturing  process .]....... IJ 

Price  quotations —  '^  ^ 

England *?" 

United  States JJ 

Production '.'.'....] I? 

Production  in  England Jj 

Shoddy  industry  in  the  United  States.'  *  '(s^'Wwi  iriiiufa^tiiies  ) 

Dnnnkage:  '' 

Of  Australian  and  South  American  wools 00^ 

Of  Class  III  wools 2°| 

Of  fine  wools ^  J^ 

Of  foreign  clips i°^ 

Of  mohair..... ;:;;; 398 

Of  wools  as  related  to  tari'ffrates.. .'.".!;[][!;;  ;i ^sr^R^'-^R^  qqo 

Specific  rate  of  duty  based  on '- «i«l-383, 387, 392 

Tables  showing  shrinkages  of  various  wools '.. qooJin 

Shropshire  sheep q9  Qftlia 

ifn"^  woSr?.!?.^  .f t?!*."^.  ^j^'^-  -"":-"■■:-■::;::;;;;;;;;;;;;:  m,im 

S kin  wool ].*.'.'.'.. aoiAoq 

Skirting  of  fleeces,  in  Australia.* '.!!"' ~^q 

Skirting  of  wool ^^^ 

Slow  loom  bonus  work '''■''-'.'.'''.'.'.'.'.'.'.'..... jin 

Smyrna  wool '.'..'.'.'.'.'.'..'.'.'.'.". ^^?'  ^^^ 

Sno w-whi te  wool ..............'.'.[ ^^' ^^^ 

Socks,  lumbermen's ^^ 

Softwastes:  ^43 

Definition  and  classification 

Dutyon ^7    . 

Illustration ''"" '!'.''. '."I!"" '^^ 

Imports,  analysis  of ^J 

Price  quotations  in  England S? 

Sorted  wool,  duty  on "° 

Sorting  of  wool : 

As  defined  by  law 

Process  of '.'.'..'..'. ^^ 

South  Africa  (see  also  British  s'oiith 'Africa): ^^ 

Amount  of  land  in  private  ownership. .  .,^ 

Character  of  wool  in [[[[ ^^" 

Cost  of  maintenance  per  sheep  in'.'. .'.'. .....[ 5}? 

Cost  of  labor  in  sheep  industry ^„ 

Cost  of  production  of  wool  in ^^] 

Cost  of  provisions  in .'  ] ^jj 

Cost  of  shearing  in ^|* 

Droughts  in .......'. 5  ^ 

Exportof  Angora  goats  from X^f 

Growing  of  maize  m ^j| 

Investment  required  for  sheep  farming.. SJ 

Lands  in,  as  related  to  sheep  growing..               iii 

Miscellaneous  costs  for  sheep  growing              * " ii^ 

Number  of  herders  employed  in..                ii^ 

Number  of  sheep  in QA«_tio 

Predatory  animals  in [ ^^^i  o 

Prices  of  wool  in f 

Rate  of  interest  in 5}? 

Rental  value  of  lands  in ^ Jx 

610 


1358 


IITDSX. 


South  Africa — Continued.  Pagt. 

Sale  of  surplus  stock  and  mutton  i:i » , , 514 

Shearing  costs  in '..'.........[[,.  513 

Sheep  diseajses  in "  ^i^ 

Sheep  industiy.     {See  Sheep  indiir-lry  in  British  South  Africa.')' 

Shrmkaffe  of  wool  111 _   _   ,  334 

Size  of  nocks  in .11.....   ..[[.[[][[  512 

Value  of  sheep  in ....[.]..] 614 

South  African  wools,  classificatio:i ..........[.. 35  53 

South  America:                                                                         ' 

Class  III  wool  of 43g 

Climatic  conditions,  influence  of,  in  sheep  growing 376 

Cost  of  provisions  in ' ...!."...[."*  540 

General  conditions  in  the  sheep  industry llllll. .....] ..][l[[l  519 

Improvements  and  equipment  required  for  sheep  growing 335 

Investment  per  head  of  sheep 333 

Number  of  sheep  in [....[[[[[[[ ]  307 

Receipts  per  sheep  in .....[.][[[ 349 

Shearing  cost  in .1 .....[.["[[.][]       [  338 

Shrinkage  of  wool  in 406-408 

wagesin.,..., :::::;;:;;;;::;::;::;;;;::..   539 

Vvoolgrowing  m ^u 

South  Carolina,  sheep  conditions  in l"l] ...[.[.][" 547 

Spanish  merino  sheep 31  33 

Spanish  wool.     "" " ";: "!  i:"""!  :;:::::::;"43,42o 

special-order  clothing 374 

Specific  duty  on  scoured  ww)l * 39g 

Specific  grease  pound  rate  ba^:  ed  on  shrinkage  of  wool'.*. ]'"      395 

Specimen  weekly  worsted  spinning  cost  sheets "      g46 

Speed  of  loom: 

Relation  of  efficiency  to ^051  1052 

(S€€  also  Picks  per  minute.) ' 

SpGed  of  looms : 773 

Spindles: 

Average  number  per  spinner 103C,  1030, 1041 

Number  of,  covered  by  investigation 619 

Numl3er  of,  in  woolen  and  worsted  prills,  in  specHied  countries '.'  il7,  256 

^  Number  to  a  mule lOlG-1019 

Spinners: 

Country  of  birth 950,951,956 

Hourly  rates  of  wages — 

For  frame  si)inner3 987,991.904,999,1001 

For  mule  spmners 987, 991,  992, 995, 999, 1002, 1003 

Nativity '  95g 

^?^^^^' 950,951,954 

Piece  rates 1016-1019 

Q   .  ^ex .   950, 951,  956 

Spinners'  wage  scales:  ' 

Worsted  yam  spinning — 

Germany 775 

Belgium .................'        785 

Carded  woolen  yam  spinning — 

^^^^^^ 780 

.     .   Belgium 785 

Spinning: 

Manufacturing  process 111-113 

Woolen  mule  spinning !.!.'.".. ni 

Worsted  mule  spinning ..][]..[.. 112 

Worsted  frame  spinning .........[[][[  113 

Spinning    department.     (See  Department,    employees    by;    Frame  sTsinningi 

Woolen  mule  spinning;  and  Worsted  mule  spinning.) 
Spinning  frames: 

Number  of  frames jq35 

Number  of  operatives ]035 

Number  of  spindles 1035 


Place  of  make. 


1035, 1042 


Prr)ductive  efficiency '  1036 

Years  in  operation. .'. 1035  1042 


INDEX. 


1259 


Pftg«. 
950,  951,  955 


Spooling  department.     (See  Department,  employees  by.) 
opooiers . 

Country  of  birth. 

E^y'^.'!'.!!.?^.".-.  :::::;•::■•-•■■•■•■■•■••■■•-■-•■•  '^^^M-m^-mhm 

Number " * a:  '  *  *      ^^ 

Sex ../.'..I. 950,951,954 

Spring  wool,  source  and  de'finition ! " ' '  ^^'  ^^^ 

Standard  eamples  of  wool *"" 

States,  industry  id,  investigated: 

Number 

List 


38 
44 

949 
949 


35 


Supercombing,  defined 

Supervisory  occupations:  * 

By  country  of  birth ..^  ^„ 

Bydepartment q?X  n  7 

Proportion  of  employees  iii... ^^'  ?5^ 

Sweater  coats:  *  -  •      9o4 

Juvenile 

Ladies' 934 

Misses' .'.".'..'.*.;..; 921 

Sweater  vests,  ladies'. .  *  * ^32 

Sjria  wool 

Szechwan  wool '. 42 

435 


Tables: 


JL  • 


^^o?AemtK^SL°n^"^^"  ""^^  ^  P'^"'^  •""'=^*-  "t  «ie  close 

By  States^  1909 

Comparative  summary,  1859-^1909.'.".".'. * ^So 

Machmery  used,  1909 ^"^^ 

Materials  used,  1899  and  1909...* .*.*."**,* ^f? 

Colonial  wools  catalogued  and  actually  sold  in  "LcJndon of? 

Tr^e^Tstetel!    ^!!!'r.^^^^^^^                ^^^"^^  wages 'per-m'ontii',' in  "difl  ^'^ 

Compensatory  duties  on  carpets ^"^^ 

Consumption  m  United  States  of—                          ^^1 

Ammal  hair  of  all  kinds,  1899  and  1909.  ^^ 

Cotton  yam  and  cotton,  1899  and  1909      ^ 

Sf^  J*^i  tn''''''^^^}SS.  P^^ased,  1899  and"  1909.".".'.".". ". o? 

bnoddy,  1899  and  1909 °^ 

Waste  and  noils,  1899  and  1909 ^^ 

Woolen  raps,  1899  and  1909....     ^1 

Distribution  ofwool  sold  in  principal  AusMi^n  markets' i? 

Distribution  of  wool  sold  in  London  colonial  sales             o?a 

J^xports  from  Commonwealth  of  Australia—           ^^^ 

Mutton  and  lambs 

Wool,  1900-1909 ' * 496 

Wool,  by  bales.             493 

Exports  from  United  Kingdom  of— ^07 

Dress  goods,  1910 

Woolen  and  worsted  cloth,' i9i6.  .* ^^^ 

Wool,  reexports  of,  amount  taken  by  'United  States,'  "I'ob'e^ibio .' ." .' .' ." ."  J  ^^ 


1260 


IKDEX. 


INDEX. 


Tables— ContiBued. 

Exports  from  United  States  of—  Tag^, 
Blankets  and  flannels  of  domestic  manufacture,  by  countries,  189^ 

1910 1^ 

Carpets  of  domestic  manufacture,  by  countries,  189<>-1910 ...  173 

Dress  goods  of  domestic  manufacture,  by  countries,  1900-1910 . .  153 

Manufactures  of  wool,  all  domestic,  by  countries,  1896-1911 191 

Sneep,  1875-1910 jgy 

Wearing  apparel,   woolen,  of  domestic  manilfacVurerby  countri«, 

1896-1911 I  c» 

Wool,  raw,  of  domestic  production,  by 'countries'  'l896-'l910  ...//.'  63 

Felt  goods  mdustry  in  United  States—                                                       --  w 

By  States,  1909 240 

Comparative  summary,  1889-1909 239 

Materials  used,  1899  and  1909 240 

Goats,  number  of ,  in  Cape  of  Good  "Hope,  1910* 209 

Hosiery  and  knit-goods  mdustry  in  United  States— 

By  States 037 

Comparative  summary,  1859-1909 936 

Machinery  used,  1909 2S8 

Materials  used,  1899  and  1909 .'."!.'.*.'.".";." 238 

Importance  of  the  merino  blood  in  flocks  in  the  Western  States 343 

Imports  and  exports  for  leading  countries,  1909-10,  of— 

Blankets  and  traveling  rugs 141 

CameFahair "' «i 

Carpets  and  rugs ^^^^  .1.1........... .....[. 174 

Cloth,  woolen  and  worsted iqa 

Dress  goods  or  stuffs i  cV 

Felt  goods .'-'".".'.'."".'.*.*.".*];;;.* 166 

Knit  fabrics,  including  hogier>',  knit  gloves,  eic^  ^ .'']''[ ' I6I 

Mohair,  alpaca,  and  like  animal  hairs '  kq 

Noils.. y» 

Plushes  and  pile  fabrics ......-.'*']].]!!!*] 134 

Rags,  woolen ]   "] go 

Shoddy  and  mungo im^l.. .[[[[[["  .1. 73 

Small  wares,  woolen 1 .1 ..  .1 . ..[..[. ...]..  1C9 

Upholstering  fabrics  and  similar  goods. . . .....  '. 136 

Waste,  wool ya 

Wearing  apparel,  woolen * ico 

Wool,  raw '.'..'. .'..'..'. 67 

Woolen  yam iig 

Worsted  yams l[..[..[[[.[..[.[ 121 

Yams  made  of  mohair,  alpaca,  and  like  hair ..........[. loj 

Imports  and  exports  of  wool  and  manufactures  of  wool  for  all  countries      *  257 

Imports  into  leading  countries  of  woolen  carpets  from  Ottoman  Empire .  186 

Imports  into  Umted  Kingdom  of—                                                     r         -  -lou^ 

Rags,  woolen,  from  the  United  States,  1906-1911 83 

Shoddy,  from  the  United  States,  1906-1910 70 

Imports  into  United  States  of—  

Blankets — 

For  1911 23g 

For  representative  years 140 

Camel's  hair  of  Class  II,  for  representative  years 55 

Carpets —  

Aubusson,  Axminster,  moquette,  and  chenille,  for  representative 

years... jjq 

IJrussels,  for  representative  years '173 

Carpetings  and  mgs,  for  representative  years '  i72-173 

Dutch  wool  and  two-ply  ingrain,  for  representative  years V. .  182 

l*elt,  for  representative  years 137 

Not  speciany  provided  for,  for  representati've  years.  .* ....'.'.'. ". .' ." " "  187 

Saxony,  Wilton  and  Toumay  velvet,  for  representative  years  178 

Tapestry  brussels,  for  representative  yeare '  igQ 

Treble  ingrain,  three-ply,  and  all  chain  Venetian,  for  representa- 
tive years jgg 

Velvet  and  tapestry  velvet,  for  representative  years . . . . . . . .* .' .* '.'.[  180 


1261 


Tables— Continued . 

Imports  into  United  States  of— Continued.  Pa-^ 

^^^tWeTe^^^""^^'  ""^"^^  ^"""^  ''^^^''  *'''*^''  ^^^®ii<«>  fo'  representa- 

Cloths,  woolen  or  worsted-^ ^^^ 

By  countries -^- 

Fori9ii .'.'.'.';";; };? 

For  representative  years lit 

Dress  goods —                                        ^^ 

By  countries ^-^ 

For  1911 ."].'.*.*;.'; ;5? 

For  representative  years '.'.*.."..... {tS 

Druggets  and  bockings,  for  representative  years.'.*. jofi 

Felts,  not  woven,  for  representative  years 12; 

Flannels  for  underwear —  

For  1911 

For  representative  years i^o 

Hair  of  Angora  goats,  alpaca  and  other  like  animals,  for  represe'ntative 
years 

Hatsof  wool,  for  representative  years...         i?? 

Knit  fabrics —                                                    ^'^' 

By  countries ,^„ 

For  191 1                                                    ^^^ 

J.  Ul    X«7XX. ,fv^ 

For  representotivo  years 1 j 00 

Knitted  articles,  for  representative  yearV. i  co 

Manufactures  of  wool —                                         '^ 

By  countries ,qq 

For  representative  years *.' " " ™ 

Mungo,  shoddy,  noils,  wool  extract,  ra^s,'and  waste;  by 'countries;  foi 

representative  years 7fi 

Noils,  for  representative  years .'.'.*.". It 

Plushes  and  other  pile  fabrics—  

Forl911 

For  representative  years jo? 

Rags  and  flocks,  for  representative  yeaVsl  .* .'.'.*.*. 00 

Rags,  shoddy,  waste,  and  noils,  for  representative  years'. 904 

Rugs-Oriental,  Berlin,  Aubusson,  Axminster,  and  other 'simiiar*  Yo'r 

representative  j^ears '  ^^p, 

Russian  camel's  hair,  for  representative  y'e'ars .'.*.*.'. ^q 

bhawls,  kmtted  or  woven,  for  representative  years       i  fio 

Sheen,  1875-1910 ^           j^^ 

Small  w^es  of  wool  and  maniifac'tures'orwooi" trimmed  "with"  small 
wares,  for  representative  years u  w  x  in  email 

Unspecified  manufactures  of  wool—  

For  1911 

For  representative  years'. !'.".'.".'.' ". jot 

Wastes,  yarn,  thread,  and  other,  1900-1911 .       no 

Wearing  apparel —                                                  '** 

By  countries _  „ 

^^For representative  years *::::::;:;;;::;:;;:::;:;;;:::;;;  im 

\     ^^^^«>  1868-1911 ^ 202 

By  countries „ 

'        For  1911 ; ;;;; ^2 

For  representative  years ci 

ClassII—                       ^        51 

By  countries >. 

Forl911 -             ^ 

^* or  representative  years  (exclusiveof  hair) .*.'.'.*.".*.'.[].'.*  54 

By  countries _„ 

For  1911 !.'.';;.*;;."] tf 

i        For  representative  years .'.'. ?4 

Wool  and  hair —                                            ^' 

Advanced  beyond  the  washed  or  scoured  condition,  for  representa- 

Total  of  all  classes,  for  represen'tative'yeais.'. . . '. .' .' .' .' .' .'  .* ." .'  .* .' ."  .*  .* .'  .*  J  63 


1262 


IISTDEX. 


Tables — Continued . 

Imports  into  United  States  of— Continued.  l»tg«. 

Wool  on  the  skin,  of  all  ckeaea,  for  ropwseatativ©  yman 62 

By  countriee X16 

For  1911 [...l][l[[]      115 

For  representative  years ],[]       ng 

Local  prices  of  Australian  merino  wools  for  10  years. 494 

Looms,  number  of,  in  woolen  and  worsted  industries  of  speciiied  countries. .      126 
Manufacturing  costs;  tops,  yarn,  and  clotb — 

Average  rates  of  wages  loc  operatives  on  pressing  and  drying  machines, 

Germany 799 

Average  weekly  pay  in  specified  occupations  in  Germany 831 

Average  weekly  wages  in  the  woolen  and  worated  industry  in  England, 
by  districts  and  occupations — 

Averages  for  weavers,  all  districts 814 

Bradford  district 815-817 

Halifax  district 821-822 

Heavv  woolen  district 820 

Huddersfield  district ' "  ]       818 

Keighley  district 822 

Leeds  district...... ."  ]  .*      819 

Cloth  finishing,  Huddersfield,  weekly  wages  in 794 

Cloths  woven  m  English  mills,  giving  description  of  fabric  and  weaving 

rates 724 

Comparative  rates  of  pay  in  representative  combing  and  scouring  and 

top-making  establishments  in  Bradford,  England 784 

Comparative  statement  of  highest  and  lowest  weekly  wages  paid  in 
specified  occupations  in  the  Philadelphia,  Rrovidence,  and  Law- 
rence districts 824 

Comparative  conversion  cost  of  makiog  certain  counta  of  worsted  yarn 

from  tops 650 

Comparative  conversion  cost  from  yarn  to  finished  cloth ]*..!*..      C92 

Comparative  conversion  costs  from  yam  to  finished  cloth  on  German- 
made  fabrics 704 

Comparative  conversion  and  labor  cost  from  yam  to  finished  cloth 

(American) , 693 

Comparison  of  occupations  and  earnings  in  one  English  and  one  Ameri- 
can mill  making  the  same  class  of  goods,  baaed  on  actual  pay  rolls  of 

the  two  mills  and  on  a  week  of  56  nours  in  each  case 827 

Conversion  cost  per  pound,  with  special  reference  to  d*^partment  ex- 
pens©  ( tops  into  yams) 649 

Conversion  cost  from  yam  to  finished  cloth,  summary 691 

Cost  of  buildings  and  equipment  in  United  States  and  England  on — 

Woolen  mill.. 706 

I*reparing and  combing  mill [[      707 

Worsted  spinning  mill 708 

Worsted  weaving  mill 709 

Cost  per  pound  of  converting  tops  into  medium  and  high  medium 
worsted  yams,  as  shown  from  records  of  efficient  mills  in  the  United 

States,  on  the  basis  of  full-time  production C48 

Daily  mmimum  wages  in  woolen-yam  spinning  mills  at  Venders,  liel- 

gium. 786 

Descnption  of  loom,  hours,  rates^  and  eamingjs  of  weavers,  descrip- 
tion of  cloth  woven,  and  efficiency  of  looms  m  woolen  and  worsted 

mills  in  specified  districts  in  Germany 752-757,  758 

Efficiency  of  machinery  and  operatives  and  rates  of  pay  to  operatives 
for  spinning  yams  m  Huddersfield,  Coin©  Valley,  and  Bradford 

diatncta. ^  781-784 

fiouriy  earnings  of  opo^tives  in  German  woolen  and  worsted  mills'  by 

occupation  and  sex 832 

Hours  and  rates  per  hour  for  dyera  in  manufacturing  and  jobbing  es- 
tablishments in  Philadelphia,  Pa 810 

Hours,  earnings  per  hour,  and  total  earnings  of  weavere  and*  foremen 

of  weavers,  Germany 753 

Minimum  wage  schedule  for  woolen  raw  goods  in  force  for  miils  of 
the  United  Sachsische-Thuringischer  weaving  mills  from  August  6, 
1^11 741-749 


iKDKX.  1263 

Tables — Continued. 

Manufacturing  costs'  topa,  yam,  and  cloth— Continued.  Page. 

^i^f.f  w?^,^^  *^^T^  reporting  in  specified  districts  in  Germany, 

rat^s  of  wages  per  1  000  picks,  descnption  of  looms  and  description 

of  cloths,  by  distncts ^   ^^r  7'iq 

Number  of  male  and  female  employees  in  finie'hing  and  dyeing  depart- 

menta  of  woolen  or  worsted  establishments  in  the  United  States 

receiving  specified  rates  of  wages  per  hour,  by  occupation.  810 

Occupations  and  rates  in  dyeing  and  finishing  establishmente  iA  Kou- 

baix,  1^  ranee ^^ 

pccupatwns  and  weekly  full-time  Vamiii^'ii;  the  U^ted'stetes'^d  hi 

Great  Britain  m  the  woolen  and  worsted  industry  oofi 

Pressers'  wages  in  nine  dyeing  and  finishing  establisWnte  in  the  Gera*- 

(jrreiz  r^ion...* „^ 

Productive  labor  per  pound  (tops  into  yams)*.'.  '..*.'.*.".".' (349 

Proportion  of  pieceworkers  and  timeworkera  in  woolen 'and'woreted 

industry,  by  districts,  in  England 004 

Rates  charged  for  dyeing  cloths  in  England 794-797 

Rates  of  pay  for  different  kinds  of  work  done  by  weavers  *ii' Aiis'trian 

establishments ^^r 

Rates  of  pay  for  occupations  in  the  finishing  departinents  of"  Aiis'trian 

establishments o-^^ 

Rates  of  pay  for  spinners  and  piecers  in  specifi^'ctermin'lcicariti'^' "  *  778 
Kates  of  pay  for  time  workers  m  different  occupations  in  Germany  *  830 
Rates  of  pay  m  miscellaneous  occupations  (Austria).  840 

Rates  of  pay  per  day  for  work  in  the  dyehouse  (Austria)     836 

Rates  of  wages  in  specified  occupations  in  dyeing  and  finiiing  ^teb- 
hshments  in  the  United  States,  England,  France,  Germany,  and 
^xUscria.  ••••••..........,,,,,,.  Qi  o 

Rates  paid  dyehouse  employ^g'in  si^iecified  dL^tricts  in  Engfand  .* " "  *      793 
Relative  net  mill  prices  of  English  cloths  and  similar  American  fabrics "       705 
focale  established  between  the  association  of  contract  weavers  of  cloths 
and  the  textile  trade  union  of  Lavelanet,  Ariege,  and  environs 

France  (one-loom  system) >"^iia, 

Slow-loom  bonus  work  and  wages  paid  in  Germany.  ]  * ^rni 

Showing  rates  of  pay  per  day  for  occupations  preparatory'  to  'spiMi^g 
(Austria) °      gq_ 

Spinners'  rates  for  spinning  worsted  yam  (on  mules)  in  establi^hiiient 

A,  at  Verviers,  Belgium 70- 

Spinners'  wage  scales  in  Germany...  .*  ..".*.* iSi 

Time  and  piece  rates  jpaid  in  the  yam  departments  of  A'ust^ian  mills*  838 

lop  and  noil  production  from  greasy  wool  in  three  typical  mills.  622 

Wage  sea  e  for  Crefelds  d  yemg  and  finishing  establishments .  ' " '  804 

Wage  scale  for  wool  d yers  in  Verviers,  Belgium . .  cXq 

Wages  for  time  workers  in  the  employ  of  25  estabiishmente'b^ioAiin- 

to  the  Saxon-Thurmgian  Master  Dyers'  Association. . .  sm 

Wages  m  49  d  yeing  establishments  in  Crimmitschau,  Gen^nv 700 

Wages  of  mule  spmners  m  German  worsted -yarn  mills  777 

Wages  for  weavers  in  the  woolen  and  worsted  indus'ti-y  at' Lu(^ken- 

walde  Germany,  dm-ing  April,  :May,  and  June,  1911. ...  7fio 

^Jw  ""t^f  v''^  ^^^^  ^^  1'^  P^^*^«'  ^^  ^^^  woolen  and  worated 
md  ustry  of  Verviers,  Belgium ^      ^f.f. 

Weaving  rat^  per  yard  and  per  1,000  picks  on  woolen 'and  worated 

cloths  woven  m  EngUsh  milla ,, worsiea 

Weavers' wage  scales;  ''^'^ 

-English — 

Huddersfield ^-,r  -rm 

Cohie  Valley ...;: 700 

Yerdonand  Quiseley *"*." li^ 

Various ^^^ 

W^ver/s  wages,  per  1,000  picks,  p^d'hi  w^*t^'  and  w^^iei'mi'llB'  at 
Verviers,  Belgium *^  ^      ^^ 

Weekly  wages  of  finishers,  by  specified* wciJitioM,*  "in  's'l' ^tebli'sli*- 
ments  in  Crimmitschau,  Germany ^         '  esiaousn 

\\  ^len  and  worsts  weavers'  rates  on  specified*  'Women  ''s'  dr^ss  'go'ods* 
Beauvois-Fontame,  France,  under  «ie  two-loom  system.  .       ^      '      7ni 
BeU          ^^^^  weavers'  wages  of  establishments  in- Flanders', 
^^^^"^ • 772,773 


1264 


INDEX. 


Tables — Continued. 

Manufacturing  costs;  tope,  yam,  and  cloth— Continued.  Pago. 
Variations  in  cost  of  converting  tope  into  worated  yam,  accordinc  to 

output _                   ^  QMQ 

Variations  in  cost  of  making  yam  due  to  quaOity  of  material  and  the 

twist  per  inch ^^y 

Variation  in  the  production  of  top  and  noil  from' greasy  wool  diie  to 

quality  of  wool _ g22 

Variations  in  weavers'  wages  in  Geraaany . .'///////////.'.'."'.','.'/,.['  737-740 

Yield  of  cloth  from  yam ,  worsted  and  woolen 1...... 625 

Men's  clothing  industry  in  United  States,  summary,  1909 241  846 

Merino  and  crossbred  sales  in  Australia ' " '  '212 

Net  charges  against  wool  in  representative  eastern  districts*  of"  United 

States. 357—370  372 

Net  charges  against  wool  in  westem  United  States*.  ..*'."'.'.'.*[*'.*  315^329 

Percentage  distribution  of  total  Australian  sales '     "'  495 

Price  quotations  of — 

Alpaca,  mohair,  and  cashmere  in  England,  1908-1910 41 

American  wools  in  Boston,  1908-1911 [[ 35 

Argentina-Lincoln  wools  in  England,  190^1916.*.*.'.*.* .  * 40 

Australasian  wools  in  London,  1908-1910 34 

English  wools  in  England,  1908-1911 39 

Foreign  wools  in  England  since  1877 213 

Gametted  waste  and  laps,  1909-1911 ao 

Noils  in  England,  1909-10 74 

Noils  in  Philadelphia,  1910 " "  ] ' 74 

Rags,  American,  in  England,  1911. ]] gj 

Rags  in  Dewsbury,  England,  1910-11. eo 

Rags  in  United  States,  1904-1911 ca 

Shoddies  in  Enr^land,  1909-1911 ' . ' ' ji 

Shoddies  in  United  States,  May,  1911 70 

South  African  wools  in  London,  1908-1910 35 

South  American  wools  in  London,  1908-1910 04 

Tops  in  England,  1908-1911 jl05 

Wools  of  third  class  in  London,  1908-1910 .,]'. 44 

Worsted  and  hair  yarns  in  England,  1908-1911 114 

Worsted  thread  waste  in  Enc^land,  1911 77 

Production  and  imports  of  specified  wool  products  in  the  United  Statues* 

1909,  and  the  percent^ige  of  which  each  is  of  the  total  of  the  two. . .  190 
Production  m  United  States  of — 

All-wool  woven  ^oods,  1899  and  1909 224  230 

All- worsted  fabncs  for  men's  wear,  1899  and  1909. ...         "  '  ior 

All-wool  cloths  for  men's  wear,  1899  and  1909 ' 128 

All-wool  and  cotton- warp  carriage  robes  and  cloths,  1899  and  1909  136 

Blankets,  1899  and  1909 i\n 

Carpets-                                                   ^^^ 

Bmssels,  1899  and  1909 1 70 

I n grai n ,  1 899  an d  1 909 l["ll[[[[[[ 1 33 

Machine-made  Axminster  and  moquette,  1899  and  i909 176 

Tapestry  Bmssels,  1899  and  1909 jgi 

Tapestry  velvet  and  similar  carpets,  1899  and  1909 I8I 

Total  production  of  carpets  and  rugs,  1899  and  1909. .            *  235 

Wilton,  1899and  1909 .7. ."."." 179 

.Cotton-mixed  and  cotton-warp  woven  goods,  1899  and  1909. . ' 225 

Cotton-mixed  woven  goods,  1899  and  1909 * '  031 

Cotton-mixed  woven  goods  for  men's  wear,  1899  and  1909     128 

Cotton-warp  woven  goods,  1899  and  1909 231 

Dressgoods,  1899  and  1909 V^^ 

Felt  g(X)ds,  1899  and  1909 1^ 

Flannels  for  underwear,  1^99  and  1909 144 

Hose  and  hah'-hose,  1899  and  1909 1 59 

Knit  underwear,  1899  and  1909 inn 

Knit  fancies,  1899  and  1909 " iXV 

Mohair  and  goat  hair,  1899 cc 

Noils,  1899  and  1909 7g 

Rugs,  seamless,  1899  and  1909 .' jgc 

Tops  and  slubbings,  by  worsted  iuduatiy,  1904  and  1909  .-i ...'. 108 


INDEX.  12QQ 

Tables — Continued. 

^f^^.^^'ion  in  United  States  of— Continued.  po^- 

Wool  felt  hat  goods,  1899  and  1909. . . .  f^: 

Wool,  raw  (exclusive  of  pulled  wool),  1890^1911 ink 

Wool,  washed  and  unwashed,  1890-1910              «? 

Wool-filled  woven  goods  for  men's  wear,  1899  and  1909 1  9q 

Wool  waste,  1899  and  1909 "^fj 

Worsted-filled  woven  goods  for  men's  w'ear,"  'l899  and  1909 1 97 

Worsted  yarn,  1899  and  1909 jf^ 

Woolen  yam,  1899  and  1909 ■ ||2 

Production  of  wool  in  Australian  States,  'igNOO*  to  *19d9 iql 

Ready-made  clothing  and  wearing  apparel  in  the  United  States^ 

Analysis  of  coats  of — 

Typical  men's  suits,  overcoats,  and  pants. ...  qck 

Typical  men's  suits,  for  different  grades  of  clothing 866  8fiS 

Typical  men  s  overcoats  for  different  grades  of  clothing'  ] ' '  '867  869  873 
Typical  men;s  pauts  for  different  grades  of  clothing. ..!.:.:  m]  869  874 
■*•  ypieai  men  s  suits . .............  o7a  q^a 

Typical  women's  skirts ;;;.*; tit 

Typical  women's  coats oqc  qqJ 

Typical  women's  suits 897  rqs 

Concentration  of  men's  clothing  industry-value  "of  product 'hi 'the 
United  States  and  m  the  five  leading  cities,  1905  and  1910  847 

Concentration  of  women's  clothing  industry,  1905  and  1910    ftQ9 

Cost  of  manufacturing —  

Complete  cost  of  typical  men's  garments 883-891 

Complete  cost  of  typical  women's  garments.  qo9  Qn« 

Factory  costs,  men's  clothing.......  "^  X^5 

Factory  costs,  women's  clothing XX? 

Men's  clothing,  1910 0^7  ^i 

^     Women's  clothing,  1909 qXX 

Costof-^  ^00 

Ladies' gloves q^q 

Ladies' hats,  caps,  hoods,  etc iit 

Ladies' hose ™ 

Ladies',  men's,  and  misses'  mittens.".*.". ".  ] ." ntl 

Ladies' scarfs  and  shawls qTJ 

Lumbermen's  socks ^tJ 

Men's  half  hose .*.'.*.".'*. qto 

Men's  woolen  and  worsted  gloves*.".!. " ' "  ntn 

Toques ^^0 

^  men 's  suits  ^^^""^  ^"^^  ^""^  ""^  ^^^"^^  ^^  """^^  fo'r"diferent  "grades  of 

Relation  of  clot'h*  cost  to  total"  'cost  "of"  men '"s"  overcoats.' llo 

Relation  of  cloth  cost  to  total  cost  of  men's  pants. . .      tto 

Relation  of  cloth  cost  to  total  cost  of  suits. ....  87fi  *87q  l«T 

Relation  of  cloth  cost  to  total  cost  of  women's  clothing. .'. ' 898l«qQ 

Sheep'number  fn-     "''^^"''  ^""^^  ^''  ^'^'^  '"  ^""^^  P^^«  ^''^'- ' '  -  875 

Argentina,  by  breeds,  1908 ^^^ 

Argentina,  by  Provinces,  1908 oin 

Australia,  by  breeds ^}.^ 

Australia,  by  States,  1884-1909 .".';.". ]  i;  :;::;.*::::  i.':.'  ] 492  lot 

Australia,  by  States  and  area  of  holdings. ...                              '  Jx^ 

Australia,  by  States  and  size  of  flock iYS 

Bntish  South  Africa,  by  subdivisions,  191o".*.".". oao 

New  Zealand,  by  breeds,  1911 ^ 

NewZealand,  by  size  of  flocks i}!° 

Specified  countries,  from  latest  returns  or  estiiii'tes".*.  ] oV ( 

United  Kingdom,  1910 fii 

United  StatSs,  1910 ^^9 

UnitedStates,  by  States,  186 A*9ld....'.;." Jq? 

ou  i5^^^^4  ^*^*®^'  ^7r  ^^^^  ^^^  ^^^^  States,  1890-'l'910. *.".". om 

Shoddy  mdustry  m  United  States—  ^^ 

By  States,  1909 

Comparative  summary,  1859-1909....    iiz^ 

MaterialB  used,  1899  and  1909 Hi 

•••        ^ID 


1266 


INDEX. 


383 


385 
399 
400 
38G 

38G 
410 
382 

387 

307 


330 
4C3 
497 

lO'O 
1025 
1023 


"Bibles — Continued.  P^m* 

Shrinkages  of  wools — 

Amount  and  per  cent  of  shrinkage  of  clean  wool  resulting  from  scour- 
ing specifiea  grades  of  fine  wooUiaving  their  origin  in  given  locali  tiea. 
Amount  of  clean  wool  and  per  cent  of  shrinkage  resulting  from  scouring 
foreign  croesbreda  and  domeBtic  woola  grading  one-Eall  blood  and 

under. -• 

English  fleece  wools 

En^^lish  skin  wools * 

Estimate  of  the  approximate  shrinkages  of  colonial  grease  wools 

Estimates  of  approximate  shrinkages  of  the  lower  grades  of  colonial 

grease  wools * 

Mazamet  pulled  skin  wools 

Present  grease-pound  rates  wi th  computed  scoured-pound  equivalents . 
Record  of  actual  importations  and  scourinps  in  a  reoref^entat^ve  Ameri- 
can mill,  covering  more  than  10,000  pounds  of  Class  I  wool 

Specific   scoured-pound   rates,    with   greaee-pound   equivalents,    on 

wools  of  various  shrinkages 

Total  receipts  and  expenditures,  capital  per  head,  selling  price  of  wool 
per  pound,  and  net  charge  against  wool  per  pound,  of  flocks  investi- 
gated in  the  western  United  States,  by  States 

Total  production  of  wool  in  the  Australian  Commonwealth,  1900  to  1905) . . 

Typical  pastoral  areas  in  Australia  held  under  Government  leases 

\Yago3  and  efficiency  of  labor  and  machinery  in  the  United  States — 

Carded  wool  mules  in  use  in  mills  in  the  United  States 

Carding  machines  in  u^e  in  woolen  mills  in  the  United  States 

Carding  machines  in  use  in  worsted  mills  in  the  United  States 

Blatribution  of  operatives  in  woolen  and  worsted  mills  in  the  United 
Statc3,  by  sex  and  by  earnings  groups,  for  occupations  in  which  75 
per  cent  or  more  ef  tlie  operatives  were  paid  16  cents  an  hour  and 
over  and  those  in  which  75  per  cent  or  more  were  paid  less  than  20 

cents  an  hour 1005 

Distribution  cf  operatives  in  woolen  and  worst e<l  mills  in  the  United 
States  for  occupations  which  require  experience  and  upon  which 
efficiency  in  manufacturing  voolen  and  worsted  fabrics  mainly  de- 
pends  ; 998 

Drawing  frames  (Bradford  ..y-  lem)  in  u^-e  in  v.orsted  milLi  in  the  United 

States 1032 

Efficiency  of  weaver^  v/itli  description  of  goods  made 10S2- 1217 

Employees  in  woolen  and  wor?tea  mills  in  the  United  States,  by  de- 
partment and  by  country  of  birth. 957 

French  combs  in  use  in  worsted  mills  in  the  United  State? 1029 

French  drawing  frames  in  use  in  worsted  mills  in  the  United  States. . .     1033 

Looms  in  use  in  woolen  and  worsted  mills  in  the  United  Utates 1042 

Noble  combs  in  use  in  worsted  mills  in  the  United  St^te.^ 1027 

Number  and  percentage  of  employees  in  woolen  and  worsted  mills  in 
the  I         '  States-^ 

By  country  of  birth  and  by  former  industrv 9C0 

By  country  of  birth  and  by  time  employee!  in  industry 972 

By  country  of  birth  and  by  time  employed  in  mill 973 

By  country  of  birth  and  by  time  employed  in  occupation 974 

By  PCX  ancl  by  countrjr  of  birth 955 

By  sex  and  by  former  industry' 958 

By  sex  and  by  time  employed  in  industry 9C2 

By  sex  and  by  time  employed  in  mill 963 

By  sex  and  by  time  employed  in  occupation 966 

Kumber  and  percont^i^e  of  native  and  foreign  born  employees  in  woolen 
and  worsted  mills  in  the  United  States,  for  occupations  which  recjuire 
experience  and  upon  which  efficiency  in  manufacturing  woolen  and 

worsted  goods  mainly  depends.  — 956 

Number  and  percent^©* of  operatives  in  woolen  and  worsted  mills  in  the 

United  States,  by  sex  and  by  deiwurtraent 996 

Number  and  per  cent  of  the  principal  woolen  and  woreted  mill  machines 
used  in  the  industry  of  native  aud  foreign  manufacture,  with  number 
of  yesEJ  in  operation 1042 


INDEX.  1267 

Tablcf! — Continued. 

Wages  and  efficiency  of  labor  and  machinery  in  United  States— Con.         Page. 
Number  and  percentage  of  weavers  weaving  woolen  goods  in  the  United 
States  and  receiving  specified  rates  based  upon  actual  weaving  time 
on  yardage  at  regular  piece  rates  per  yard,  including  ordinary  stop- 
pages of  loom X003 

Number  and  percentage  of  weavers  weaving  worsted  goods  in  the 
United  States  and  receiving  specified  rates  based  upon  actual  weavinr^ 
time  on  yardage  at  regular  piece  rates  per  yard,  including  ordinary 

stoppages  of  loom 1007 

Number  and  percentage  of  woolen  weavers  in  the  Unit^  States,  by- 
specified  rates  of  earnings  per  hour  and  by  sex 1000 

Number  and  percentage  of  worsted  weavers  in  the  United  States,  by 

specified  rates  of  earnings  per  hour  and  by  sex 1008 

Number  of  employees  in  woolen  and  worsted  mills  in  the  United 
States — 

By  country  of  birth  and  by  former  industry 959 

L>y  country  of  birth  and  by  time  in  industry 971 

By  country  of  birth  and  by  time  in  mill 971 

By  country  of  birth  and  by  time  in  occupation 972 

By  sex  and  country  of  birth  and  by  department  and  occupa- 
tion   950-953 

By  sex  and  country  of  birth  and  by  former  industry 9G1 

By  sex  and  country  of  birth  and  by  time  employed  in  industry. .       976 

By  sex  and  country  of  birth  aud  by  time  employed  in  mill 977 

By  sex  and  country  of  birth  and  bv  time  employed  in  occupation. .      978 
By  sex  and  time  employed  in  industry  and  by  time  employed  in 

occupation 93 1 

By  sex  and  time  employed  in  mill  and  by  time  employed  in 

industry. 979 

By  sex  and  time  employed  in  mill  and  by  time  employed  in  occu- 

pation _ 980 

By  time  employed  in  industry  and  by  time  emplovod  in  occupation.       970 

By  time  employed  in  mill  and  by  time  employed  in  industry 905 

By  time  employed  in  mill  and  by  time  employed  in  occupation. .      968 
Number  of  female  operatives  receiving  specific  hourly  rates  of  wages, 

by  department  and  occupation 994 

Number  of  male  operatives  receiving  specified  hourly  rates  of  wr.ges, 

by  department  and  occupation , .      990 

Number  of  operatives  receiving  specified  hourly  rates  of  wages,  by 

department  and  occupation. *.      oss 

Number,  per  cent  distribution,  and  per  cent  of  total  of  the  operativc-3 
in  woolen  and  worsted  mills  in  the  United  States: 

By  sex  and  by  hourly  rate  of  wa^es 997 

By  sex  and  by  time  in  mill,  time  in  occupation,  and  time  in  indus- 

^^. 975 

By  time  employed  in  industry  and  by  time  employed  in  occupa- 
^tion : 9C9 

By  time  employed  in  mill  and  by  time  employed  in  industrv 9G4 

By  time  employed  in  mill  and  by  time  employed  in  occupation 9G7 

Percentajge  of  seconds  in  dress  goods  manufacture 1079 

Piece  price  per  100  pounds  of  filling  yam  paid  spinners  operating  one 

mule ; : ^qis 

Piece  price  per  100  pounds  of  warp  yam  paid  spinners  o]x;rating  one 

inule 1016 

Fteparatory  and  finisher  gill  boxes  (Bradford  system)  in  use  in  worsted 

milla  in  the  United  States io27 

Preparatory  and  finisher  gill  boxes,  French  combing,  in  use  in  worsted 

mills  in  the  United  States 1029 

Productive  efficiency  in  mills  in  tie  United  States — 

Plain  serge  fabrics lo^i 

Fancy  serge  fabrics 10G3 

Plain  and  fancy  worsted  fabrics ]  10G4 

Productive  efficiency  in  weaving — 

In  woolen  mills  in  the  United  States  for  males  and  females 1056 

In  woolen  and  worsted  mills  in  the  United  States 1049, 1050, 1052 


1268 

Tables — Continued. 


^  INDEX4^ 


Pag«. 


^ 


I  < 


;."  "v..o.v.«  imiia  m  Lne  umtea  ctatea  for  males  and  females  1051 

Of  specified  worsted  fabrics  in  mills  in  the  United  States^    loso 

Of  specified  woolen  fabrics  in  mills  in  the  United  Stat^. lo59 

^T^\mZ^7  ""^  ^^*^°^  ^^  operative,  labor  cost  per  pound  ^ 
Bmdford^s^^tem"'         ^""^"^  "^^^  ^^'  ^^  establishmenti: 

Combing ???? 

Frame  spinning ,  ??? 

French  combing |[J^^ 

French  drawing 'J J  So? 

Mule  spinning,  woolen f™ 

Mule  spinning,  worsted ^Jf!j 

woolen  carding :[^^^ 

Productive  efficiency  of  machine  and  operatiVe,"  labor  cost*^;  'pound 
and  average  wage  rate,  by  estabUshments:  ^  ^       ' 

Wool  scouring 

Worsted  carding jJJ-J 

Sw5  T''''^''^"  i""  ""f  ^^  T*^^^^  «^*^  woreted  milYs'in  "tie  United 

States,  by  place  of  make  and  years  in  operation inoi 

bpinmng  frames  m  use  in  worsted  mills  in  the  United  States icnk 

1^7^to  mT*         migration  of  woolen  and  worsted  mill  empYo^^eV, 

"^mente"  ^'^""^  P^^®  P^^  yarcl"  ( wwlen'i^d  woreted  "goods)",  "by  ek'abii'sh-      ^^^ 

wn.>)!n '''^f  ^?^^'*^'-  ^"i  ""^  ^^ ^"^  ^«  ti^"«  United  'st^ttes.'.v;;. ;  :::;■•■*  ^^^^lo38 

^omen  s  clothmg  industry-  m  United  States,  1909....  041  ^t 

Wool  man ufacturea—  "  '  ^4i,mo 

Summary  of,  in  France,  by  subdivisions,  1896,  1901   1906  o-.q 

StetS  J^f^^^^^«*^^^^«  ^^d  P^^sons  employed' in  German'y,"  by 

"" Gi^,^^g^r:^?^^  :-^^^'' -^  ->^^-' i-^-," in  2 

--—Materials  used  in  United  States,  1870-^19i6            07 

Total  products  of,  in  United  States,  1899-l'909'.'. ".  ] i  «q 

Woo  product  of  the  United  States,  by  States,  1910 '.V. 65 

\\  00  ,  raw,  production  of,  in  leading  countries,  1900-1910. 66 

Wm  wnR^iit't^lf?"^"  ^^'  consumption  in  Europe  and  North  America; ". '. ". '.  214 

Wool-woriing  mills  in  Germany,  mechanical  equipment,  1907  210 

Woolen  and  woi-sted  factories  in  United  Kingdom—        '  ^^' ^'^ 

Number  of  operatives,  1907 ^aa 

^            Production,  1907 ^J* 

ttn  ?nd  wo'^S'^^^^' '''  leading  countries,"  p"ro*d"u"ctiv"e  equ"ipmen"t; ." ."  ] ."      256 
Ki^dom^  So'!!  .  "'  ^^^^^^"'^  ^^*^^  g^^^«'  produced  in  United 

Woolen  industry  in* tfnited' States^ "  *  * ^^^ 

By  Statesj  1909 ^  „^ 

— Comparatiw  summary,  1859^1909 V." ixl 

Machmery  used,  1909 i^^ 

Materials  used,  1899  and  1909 ' "  *  iia 

Woolen-producing  spindles  in  specified  countries. ." f f ? 

Woolen,  worsted  and  shoddy  industries  in  United  Kingdo"m,"  "mech"aii"icai 

equipment  and  persons  employed ''        '  ^^^"<inicai 

Woolen  j^arns  produced  in  France,  1910 I ' "  tt o 

Worsted  mdustry  in  United  States—                  * " "   ^ 

By  StateSj  1909 ««, 

<— Comparative  summary,  1859^1909 '.*.;.' Ha 

Machinery  used,  1909 ™ 

Materials  used,  1899  and  1909 •        nff 

Worsted-producmg  spindles,  number  of,  in  specifi^  countries fiQ 

Worsted  yam  produced  m  France,  1910 ?in 

Tasmania,  first  sheep  in rt^ 


INDBX.  1269 

Taxation:  Pare. 

In  New  Zealand 5^2 

On  land  in  Australia ....'.../..'. 476 

On  sheep  in  United  States 337 

Taxes,  in  South  Africa 513 

Tax,  license  in  United  States 599 

Teg  wool,  definition 39 

Tennessee: 

Cost  of  keeping  sheep gg^ 

Bogs  in ......[[[.].]]'      586 

Shearing  and  lambing  in ' ggy 

Sheep  farming  in [.[[..[[[[ 586 

Spring  lamb  raising  in .....[].". 530 

Western  sheep  in 537 

Textile  centers,  referred  to \ ..  .1 .....[..   [ 982 

Thibet  wool *...*]."]..!] 434 

Tierra  del  Fuego: 

Sheep  raising  in gj^g 

Soil  and  climate  of '..'..'..'..','."      519 

Time  employed  in  industry,  for  employees: 

By  country  of  bh1;h 971,972,976 

By  nativity Qy^ 

By  sex......     l-^i^iirgei' 975*976," 979,981 

By  time  m  mill 964  955'  979 

By  time  in  occupation ] 969,' 970,' 981 

Time  employed  m  mill,  for  employees: 

By  country  of  birth 971,973,977 

By  nativity '_       '97^ 

By  sex......         963,975,977,979,980 

By  time  in  industry 964,965  979 

13y  time  m  occupation 957  ggg  ggQ 

Time  employed  in  occupation,  for  employees:  '       ' 

By  countTy  of  birth 972,974,978 

By  nati\Tity , '972 

By  sex......         966,*  975,*  978,*  980, 981 

By  time  m  industry 969,970  981 

By  time  in  mill 967,968  980 

Top  making.    (-Sec  Combing.) 

;*Top  maker" , gon 

Tops:  ^'^''- 

American  and  English  terminology iqq 

Classification 105 

Commerce  for  leading  countries .........*..*..*]      108 

Comparative  American  and  English  cost  of  making  worsted  yam  from    *        650 

Comparative  cost  of  making.  United  States  and  abroad .".**'      645 

Comparison  of  imports  with  production "  ] '       jgg 

Compensatory  duties  on G23 

Cost  of  converting  into  worsted  yarn 645 

Cost  of  making gog 

Definition 104 

Butyon *.-'.i^-"..."*.l!."[]].]]["]];!;'io4  107 

Dyed,  cost  of  making  yarn  from *         '  gog 

Illustration 104 

Imports '*..''''".!!!!!.!""]"] 107 

Invisible  waste  or  shrinkage ...]][.[.[[[[   624 

Labor  cost  per  pound  in  United  States qm 

Manufacturing  process.         ;;;;;;:;;;::;'io4, 105 

iTice  quotations  in  England i  ng 

Principal  markets 1^0 

Production j^? 

Weight  of .";;;;;::::::;::;::; ^22 

Yield  of  yam  from /.oo 

Toques,  ladies' ;] ^46 

Touchawooi ;";;; .o  49? 

Transcaspian  wool 49'  427 

Tscherskoi  wool ^^^^^\\\\\][[[l[[ .[[[.[  4l' 424 

32080*'--H.  Doc.  342, 6^2,  vol  2 i2 


1270 


INDEX. 


INDEX. 


1271 


III  " 


Turkestan  wool ^  '^l 

Tiirkey  and  Balkan  States,  ClaBs  HI  woof  in*. .'  *.'.V.'.'  * '  422 

Twkey  in  Asia,  wool  of T^t 

Turkish  looms ."].*." 431 

Twisting  department.     (See  Department,  employees  by . ) 

Twisters,  hourly  rates  of  wages 987,»9L994  »99  1001 

Typical  men  a  garments,  costs  traced  from  wool  to  wearer  '   Rsa 

Typical  women's  garments,  costs  traced  in  detail  from  yarn  to  ciotiiing 


883 
902 


¥. 


1080 


UnHorm  cloths:   Weave-constmction  of,  yards  woven  by  individual  weavers 

efficiency  of  mdividnal  weavers ' 

United  Kingdom:  

Comparison  with  leading  manufacturing  countries.  2SB 

Sheep  industry.     (See  Sheep  industry  in  United  KiDgdom' ) 

VVool  manufactures.    (See  Wool  manufactures  in  United  Kingdom.) 

Early  years  of  sheep  industry  in 353 

Investment  per  head  of  sheep 000 

Western  land  question  in 309 

National  average  charge  per  pound  of  wool  in. qta  377 

Phases  of  sheep  industry  in ^3^2 

Fiace  of  make  of—  ,  " 

'"^  S*^^  ^a<^^"^«« 1023,1025,1042 

^S^^^::::::::::::::: 10^2, 1.33;  1042 

'l:1!i^:;;;;;;:;:^  •i^n;io^,io42 

Se'com'bs' .'-*-"::"i63«;  1040, 1042 

J.^tFUlC  COIllt>B. ; 10'^7    1  04'' 

Scouring  machines ^^qJj'  jq^2 

Spinning  frames..        .     """""'.'.'.'."]'.'.[[[  1035,' 1042 

{£>€€  am  Country  of  bufh  of  employees.) 

Receipts  per  head  of  »heep  in  Westeoi 349 

Relative  standing  of  States  in  eli^>ep 394 

Sheep  industry.    {See  Sheep  industry  in  United  States!) 

Wool  manufactures.    {See  Wool  manufactures  in  United  States.) 

Wool  production  in aaa 


Unwashed  wool,  nature  of. 


4§ 


Upper  Ohio  region,  sheep  in tuo 

Uigawool ^2 

Uruguay:  

Breeds  of  sheep  in ^3^ 

Climate  of ^  r op 

Future  of  wool  industry  in '-"'--'-*.  ^"  --.'"""!!!]]  1 .'';."".  537 

vf  rasses  01  ••.••.........,......,.,...,....__  f^oQ 

Labor  required  in 5Q5 

Lambinji  in ..".".. 535 

Locusts  in 536 

Number  of  men  required  with  sheep " .  ] 535 

Number  of  sheep  in 3Q7 

Rambouillet  sheep  in .].].... 537 

Shearini^  in 535 

Sheep disefifles  in ...V^..... 536 

Sheep  in 530 

Total  investment  in  sheep  in 54Q 

vJ^"^ :::;:;::::;::::;:::::::•:::::::  539 


Breed  of  rams  and  ewes  in ^m 

Leasing  value  of  lands  in ' 


607 
596 


Valparaiso  wool ^o  jo* 

Variations  due  to  the  quality  of  the  material  and  twist  per  inch  in'spiiiiing' '     "'«47 
Vanations  in  cost  of  converting  wool  into  tops  in  United  States. .  64'' 

Vermont,  industry  in,  investigated ^ 


Vicanere  or  Bicanere  wool 42, 433 

Victoria,  percentage  of  merino  sheep  in 348 

Victorian  wool,  prices  of 468 

Virginia,  sheep  conditions  in 546 

Volo  wool 43,422 

W. 

Wages  and  hours  in  Austrian  mills , $34 

Wa^es,  hourly  rates,  method  of  obtaining 1006 

Wages  in  dyeing  and  finishing  establishments: 

England 790 

Germany 793 

Austria 805 

France , 807 

United  States 809 

Wages  in  Germany  in  various  occupations , 83© 

Wages  in  sheep  industry: 

Herders 339 

In  Argentina 539 

In  South  America .• 539 

InUruguay 53& 

Scaleof  sheep  laborers',  in  Australia , 485 

Table  showing,  in  western  United  States 339 

Wages  of  spinners  and  piecers  in  German  towns 777 

Whales.     {Se£  Ireland,  Scotland,  and  Wales,  and  Country  of  birth  ol  employees.) 

Warp  yam,  piece  rates  for  spinning 1016, 1017 

Wasned  wool , , 45, 432 

Washing  of  wool 46 

Washington,  breed  of  rams  and  ewes  in 606, 607 

W'astes.     {See  Hard  wastes  and  Soft  wastes.) 
Wastes  from  yam  to  cloth: 

Finishing  wastes 624 

Preparatory  processes 624 

Weaving-room  wastes 624 

Yarn  remnants 624 

Wastes  in  weaving,  recoverable  value  of 625 

Wearing  apparel  of  wool: 

Classification 155 

Commerce  for  leading  countries  (exclusive  of  knit  goods) 163 

Exports,  by  countries 157 

Hats,  wool  felt — 

Imports  for  representative  years 157 

Production 157^  153 

Imports — 

By  countries 156 

For  representative  years I5g 

Knitted  articles — 

Commerce  for  leading  countries , , . , . .       161 

Imports  for  representative  years 153 

Manufacturing  process , 153 

Production ] "  isg^  159 

Production  in  England  and  Germany , , 161 

Other  ready-made  clothing — 

'        Imports  for  representative  years 162 

Production 162,163 

Rates  of  duty 155 

Shawls,  knitted  and  woven,  imports  for  representative  years '.      162 

Weavers: 

Earnings,  method  of  obtaining 1045, 1046 

Efficiency 1045-1075,1080 

Grades  of 1077, 1078 

Hourly  rates  of  wages 1005-^1010 

Number 95a,  951 

Piece  rates 1010-1016 

Premiums loio,  1014 

Proportion  of 954 

Sex 950,051,954 


•^-^  i  JU 


INDEX. 


Weavers— Continued. 

Warp  stop  motion  on  looms. 

Woolen 

Worsted 

Weavers'  wage  scales: 

Austrian 

Belgian 

French 

Weavers'  wage  scales  and'a^eemVnts*: 

-Cinglisn 

(jrerman 

Weaving:  

Definition 

Manufacturing  process..*. 

Weaving  rates  (Tourcoing,  France) .*.' .' 

H^ea ving-room  waates ^        

Weight  of—  

Roving 

Tops •  

Wells,  necessity  W/oA'ii'eep  ranges.". 

Western  lambs,  feeding  of....  

Western  range  sheep,  breeding  of... 

VV  estern  ranges,  sheep  on . .  

Western  dieep  and  lambs  in  Neb^ka 

Western  sheep:  

In  corn-belt  States 

In  Kentucky *' 

In  Minnesota 

In  Missouri " 

In  Tennessee 

In  Wisconsin 

Movement  of 

Western  United  States,  sheep  of 

Wether  wool....  ^      

fVinciers:  ........ 

Country  of  birth 

Hourly  rates  of  wages. . .  

Number ] 

Sex 

Burnt  and  cut-over  laud  in 

Cost  of  maintenance  of  sheep  in.'".' 

Dogs  and  fences  in 

Internal  parasites  in  sheep' of 

Shearing  in 

Sheep  farming  in .• 

Size  of  flocks  and  farms  in. 

Western  sheep  in 

Wisconsin,  industry  in,  investigated'.'. '. 

Women  s  ready-made  clothing 

Concentration  of  industry...  

Women's  ^rments:  

Relation  of  cloth  cost  to  total  cost. . . 

Specimen,  cloth  cost  of . . . ;.  

Specimen,  manufacturing  cost  of. .  .'.'.*.'. 

Wool  ffis  of.^*  *^^  ^  ^^^^  ^"^  y^  to'ciothi^;;::.".; 

Adrianople  skin  (Kassapbatchia) ... 

Afgan '     

tjY         .  

Albanmn 

Aleppo 

Alpaca 

American .".'.'        ' 


INDEX. 


Page. 

•.-...  1076 
.  100&-1010 
-  1005-1010 

764 

767 

761 

713 

726 

122 

...  122,123 

771 

763 

....      624 

....  622 

...  622 

....  601 

. -  - .  550 

- . . .  604 

....  593 

....  ^  581 

..-."  '  556 
...  589 
...  583 
.  576,578 
...  587 
...  574 
...  555 
...  593 
...  ^  39 
...  '  346 
...       607 


■••- 950,951 

989,  992, 995,  999, 1003 

■ 950,951 

950,951 


--  672 

-.  574 

..  571 

..  572 

..  573 
655, 570 

..  573 

.  574 

.  892 

.  892 

.  89S 

.  894 

.  894 

.  902 


33,43,423 

42,428 

43,422 

42,431 

40 

299, 300, 301, 354 


Wool,  kinds  of— Continued. 

Ai^entina 

Australasian 

Awassi ]] 

Bagdad .'."'.' 

Blackface 

Bokhara 

Braid 

Bushire 

Bussorah 

Calmuc 

Canadian ,[[[ 

Cape 

Carded 

Carbonized 

Castel  Branco 

Central  Asiatic 

China  Ball 

China  lamb's 

"Comeback" 

Cordova 

Corsican , 

Criolla 

Crossbred .' 

Cyprus [ 

Damascus 

Delaine 

Donskoi 

Down  clothing 

Down  combing 

East  India 

Egyptian 

English 

Fall 

Fine  Delaine 

Georgian 

Greasy 

Haslock 

Heath 

Herd  wick , 

Hogg  or  hogget , 

Horns 

Iceland 

Improved 

Jaffa 

Jesselmere 

Joria 

Kandahar 

Karadi .* 

Kasan 

Kashgar 

Kelat 

Khorassan 

Kuban 

Manchurian 

Merino 

Merv 

Mesopotamia 

Mestiza,  metz,  and  metis.. 

Mongolian 

Morocco '/,[ 

Native  Smyrna 

Native  South  American...' 

Navajo 

Nouka 

Odessa 

^-"^^a»  •••.•••««..,,.,.,,,,,,. 

Oporto 


1273 

Page. 

40 

34,299 

....  42,431,432 
.  33,42,430-432 

43 

42,427 

38 

431,432 

--.-  42,431,432 

42,427 

36,39,40 

35 

109 

109 

33,419 

■ 427 

43,435 

33,430 

35 

.--.  42,420,436 

420 

38,301 

32,384 

431 

42,431 

31,301 

...  41,423^25 

32 

32,38 

42,433 

....  33,36,435 

35,39,299,419 

>.......        38 

38 

......  41,425 

35 

419 

421 

419 

39 

431 

43 

45 

42,431 

434 

42,433 

42,433 

..  42,431,432 

41,424 

42,429 

434 

.-  42,413,428 

41,424 

42 

>.••...  ol,  32 

42 

432 

429 

36,436 

431 

436 

414 

42,425 

35,425 

42,431 

419 


1274 


JIJPI  JLPJo  Jlih« 


Wool,  kinde  of — Continued.  Pagt. 

Pacputan ^^  434 

Pandemia ......'...........[....  ^ 430 

Picklock ..................[[,,     '   37 

Port  Phillip .....,.., 35 

Pulled.    (-See  Pulled  wool.) 

Pyrenean 43,420 

5^<^?^o """;;.;.■;;.  521 

Jtvussian ^  4]^ 

Savolp .....................'41  424 

Scotch  black-faced  or  Highland [,[ ' 419 

|9^F^ '.''.*.!;;'35j46,*46,396 

fj^^"g ?.      435 

ffP;-: 00,61,62,421,422 

Skirted 49 

smjTna  .'.".";;;;;;;;  ;;"";;;;;;;;;;;;'42, 431 

Snow  white 35 

Sorted.    (-See  Sorting  of  wool.) 

South  African 3^  522 

South  American -"-- -r.""//33,'34,*42,*36i,'384,*436!528 

Spring 33 

Supercombing 35 

Syria 42 

Szechuan 435 

Teg .-...*...'  39 

Thibet **"  434 

Toucha... ;"""""-";-";;";;";;*42,425 

Transcaspian 40  427 

Tscherskoi ..[[[[Ill]  41  424 

Turkestan a9  4.97 

Unwashed 45 

^^JTga 42 

Valpafaiso..      42,435 

V  icanere,  or  Bicanere 42^  433 

Victorian .[.'..]'..['.[','.'.[[[,      468 

Volo 43  422 

^}i^^ '.^I'.y.y.'.'.l'.'.'.'.lll  45^432 

VV  ether qq 

WoOSie 4qK 

Zackel. ili;ii;iil^;;r43,"42i,' 423,"  425,435 

Wool,  miscellaneous: 

Australian,  sales  of 469 

Average  charge  per  pound  in  United  States 376, 377 

Average  price  received,  comparative 342 

Average  railroad  haul  of,  in  New  Zealand [ .'      508 

Average  weight  per  head  in  Australia 342 

Bales  of,  sold  inXondon .';.".*.".*.'      398 

Character  of  Argentine 528 

Character  of,  produced  in  corn  belt ,   ',        559 

Ckflsification  of 29, 30, 31, 33,'38,'41, 415 

Conditioning  of 105 

Consumption  of,  in  Europe  and  North  America 214 

•^  Coet  of  a  pound,  how  determined 311-313 

Distinction  between  wool  and  hair ; 30 

Domestic  grades  of 299, 301 

Flat  rate  on  scoured  pound  of 397 

Fluctuations  in  market 393 

Freight  on,  in  Australia [      351 

Freight  on,  in  New  Zealand [,[      508 

Gfaoes  of  Kentucky 589 

Grades  of  leading  foreign 300 

Grades  of  New  Zealand 300 

In  com  belt,  sales  of 56O 

Industry  in  Argentina,  future  of 527 

Market  prices  in  Australia 467 

Method  of  packing  in  New  Zealand 503 


IND£JU 


1275 


I 


Wool,  miscellaneous — Continued.  !*««»• 

Net  charge  against  a  pound  of 311, 371 

Net  charge  against,  in  Australasia 350 

Prices  of  South  African 512 

Production  of.    {See  Production  of  wool.) 

Sales  of,  in  London,  etc 392 

Shrinkage.    {See  Shrinkage.) 

Specific  duty  on  scoured 396 

Table  of  prices  and  exports  in  Argentina, 540 

Testing  by  sample 397 

Wool  combing,  Bradford 815 

Wool,  combing  on  commission 640 

Wool  dyers'  w^a^es,  Verviers,  Belgium , 808 

Wool  felt  hat  industry  in  the  United  States.     {See  Wool  manufactures. ) 

Woolgrowing  in  eastern  United  States. 353 

Woolgrowing,  unique  position  of  America  in 395 

Wool  manumctures  in: 

Belgium,  Italy,  Austria,  Tlussia,  and  Japan — 

Comparison  with  leading  countries 255 

France — 

Character  and  organization 253 

Comparison  with  leading  countries 255 

Contrast  with  England 253 

Contrast  with  Germany 246 

Distribution 252 

Mechaniral  equipment 254 

Persons  employed  and  number  of  establishments,  by  subdivisions. .  253, 254 

Production 254 

Germany — 

Carded  woolen  fabrics  produced  in  1907 252 

Carded  woolen  yarn  produced  in  1907 251 

Comparison  with  leading  countries 255 

Contrast  with  England  and  France 246, 248 

Distribution 246, 247 

Establishments  and  persons  employed,  by  subdivisions,  in  1907 247 

Extent  and  organization 248-249 

Household  industry 249 

Mechanical  equipment 250 

Shoddy  produced  in  1907 252 

TopsproWd 251 

Wool  scouring  and  carbonizing 251 

Worsted  yam  produced  in  1907 251 

United  Kingaom — 

Comparison  with  leading  countries 255 

Contrast  with  P'rance 253 

Contrast  with  Germany 246, 248 

Distribution 242 

Exports  of  woolen  and  worsted  goods 246 

Mechanical  equipment 244 

Persons  employed  In  wool  and  hosiery  industries,  1907 243 

Persons  employed  in  wool  and  worsted  (including  shoddjO  factories, 

1907 - 244 

Production  in  woolen  and  worsted  factories 245 

Scope  and  organization *  243 

United  States — 

Carpet  and  ru":  industry — 

Comparative  summary 232 

Development  and  organization 232 

Distribution 233 

Materials  used 234 

Mechanical  equipment 233 

Production 173, 235 

Clothing  industry — 

Men's  clothing 241 

Summary  of  men's  clothing 241 

Summary  of  women's  clothing 242 

Women's  clothing 241 


1276 


INDEX. 


Page. 


. . .  239 

-  -  -  240 
...  240 

-  - .  165 

...  236 

-  -  -  236 
- . -  237 

-  -  -  238 

-  -  -  238 

-  159,161 


^  ool  manufacturers  in—Continued. 
United  States—Continued. 
Felt  gooda  industry- 
Comparative  Bummary 

Development ' " 

Distribution [[ 

Ma teriala  used ' 

Production 

Hoeiery  and  knit  gooda  industry— 

Comparative  Bummary 

Development  and  organization 

Distribution 

Materials  used 

Mechanical  equipment....... 

Production 

Shoddy  industry —  

Comparative  summary 

Development  and  organization £? 

Distribution -^14 

,    Materials  used '*'.". ^^^ 

Mechanical  equipment  oymiilsV.  ".;.*.".'.' ||f 

Production ^16 

Summary  of —  '^^>  216 

Comparison  of  imports  and  production ^^ 

Table  1896-1911....^ ,„, 

General  comment Jx, 

Imports —  l"! 

Analysis  of 

By  countries ;oo  .?? 

^     Table  1896-1911 .' ^'^^^  J89 

Production 188 

Wool  felt  hat  industrj^— 189 

Production 

I  Summary 241 

Woolen  industry— 157 

Comparative  summary 

Development  and  organization.'.".".'.'  * ."  * |f f 

Distnbution -^-'5 

Materials  used. . .:..... ^^7 

Mechanical  equipment.'.*.'.'.'. ". '. ^28 

Production. 228 

Relation  to  worsted  industry". ['.'..'. f?2~Soi 

Worsted  industry— 219,220 

Comparative  summary- 

Developinent  and  organization.. .'.'.*.■  [[". ;,,o  Zon 

Distnbution •  ^1^»  220 

Materials  used 221 

Mechanical  equipment.'.'.".",'.* '.  ] -      ^23 

Production ^^2 

Relation  to  woolen  industrv ??'^'  '^-^^ 

Wool  on  the  skin:  muusiry 219,220 

.Duty  on 

Imports  for  representative  years ^'^^ 

Origin ;  62 

Wool-Pcouring  department:* ^21 

Average  number  of  operatives  per  machine.  ia.>o 

Average  wage  rates 1022 

Labor  cost  per  pound. . . 1022 

Productive  efficiency ' ' 1022 

{Seealso  Department,  employees  "by  ) ^^^^ 

Wool  small  wares:  ^  ^ 

Articles  defined 

Claaeification  of 166,167 

Commerce  for  leading  countries.'.'.".".'.'.;; }^^ 

Dutieson 169 

Imports  for  representative 'years'.*. ■^^^'  l^l 

Production 168 

FKKiuction  in  United 'KMKdom'iid'Fiaiice'.'. JSf 

loo 


INDEX.  1277 

Wool  sorters: 

(Jountry  of  birth ^^s®- 

Hourly  rates  of  wao-es         A ^^0,  951,  956 

Nativity ^     985,990,994,998,1001 

Number 956 

Sex 950,  951 

W^lrca^^^^  '  ^^"^^  'i>-P-"^tnient,'  employees  'by.') ^'''  ^^^ 

Average  run 

Average  number  of  op^rati'v'es  per'sVt*  of  "c'ard's ]^l^ 

Average  wao^e  rates 1026 

Average  width  of  card. . . .'. 1026 

Labor  cost  per  pound 1026 

Productive  efficiency .,,, 1026 

Woolen  fabrics,  miscellaneous: 1026 

Weave,  construction  of 

Yards  woven  by  individual "wea'vers 1080-1217 

Efficiency  of  individual  weavers. . . ..■;.'. JnQA~i oH 

\\  00  en  industry  in  the  United  States.    (See  W^l  manuiactures  ') " '  ^^^^^^17 

Uoo  en  linings,  importance  of,  in  the  manufacture  of  clothinf^^ 

w£  ^  TpS^r  ^^^^^^^^^^^^  ^^^'  ^^^^-^  ^^^^^^^  -  -  -"  -• :  -•  -■ : : : : :   ?06^ 

Average  run. 

Average  number  of  spindles  per'operativ'e }^} 

Average  wage  rates 1041 

Labor  cost  per  pound 1041 

Number  of  mules 10^1 

Number  of  operatives ." ■" 1040 

Number  of  spindles ...."." 1040 

Productive  efficiency.  1040 

Woolen  yarn,  compensatory'dut'y  on'.'. 104] 

Wools  of:  624 

Class  I — 

Countries  of  production ... 

Definition  and  classification v ^^'  299-301 

Duty  on—  31,417 

Scoured 

Unwashed 45, 47 

Washed 51 

Imports—  45, 47 

Analysis  of 

By  countries ^1 

For  1911 .'.'.".".""* ' ^^ 

For  representative  years..]. fj 

Class  II —  52 

Countries  of  production ..   ,^„    .__ 

Definition  and  classification....  ^^'  ^ooJTf 

Dutyon—  38,417 

Scoured 

Washed  and  unwashed ly  titl 

Imports —  4/,oi,  5d 

Analysis  of 

By  countries ^4 

Forl911 54 

Class  III—                          53 

Countries  of  production ^q  >n  o  ^oo 

Definition  and  classification " '   Iiii^ 

Description  of  leading  varieties  of .;i'  ^H 

Dutyon—  418-436 

Scoured At:  at 

Washed  and  unwashed a^kI 

Imports —  4/,  &b 

Analysis  of 

By  countries 57 

For  1911 ;;; 58 

,  For  representative  years " ^l 

Woosie  wool 58 

435 


'%l 


1278 


Worated  carding:  ^'*••• 

Average  count 1024 

Average  numl>er  of  operatives  per  card 1024 

Average  wage  rates 1024 

Average  width  of  card 1024 

Labor  cost  per  pound 1024 

Productive  efficiency 1024 

Worsted  dress  goods,  ladies' : 

Weave  construction  of 1080'1217 

Yards  woven  by  individual  weavers 1080-1217 

Efficiency  of  individual  weavers 1080-1217 

Worsted  fabrics,  miecellaneous: 

Weave  construction  of 1080-1217 

Yards  woven  by  individual  weavers 1080-1217 

Efficiency  of  individual  weavers  on 1080-1217 

Worsts,  fancy  and  plain: 

Weave  construction  of 1080-1217 

Ywrds  woven  by  individual  weavers 1080-1217 

Efficiency  of  individual  weavers 1080-1217 

Wasted  industry  in  the  United  States.     {See  Wool  manufactures.) 
.Worsted  mule  spinning: 

Average  count - 1039 

Average  number  of  spindles  per  operative 1039 

Average  wage  rates - 1039 

Later  cost  per  pound 1039 

Number  of  mules 1038 

Number  of  operatives 1038 

Numl:>er  of  spindles 1038 

Productive  efficiency 1039 

Worsted  spinning  cost  sheets,  specimen,  weekly 646 

Worsted  yam,  compensatory  duty  on 624 

Wyoming,  breed  of  rams  and  ewes  in 606-608 

Y. 

Commerce  for  leading  countries 119|  120 

Comparison  of  production  with  imports 189 

Definition  and  classification 111>  113 

Distinction  between  woolen  and  worsted HI 

Duties  on 111>  11^ 

Illustration '     HI 

Imports--  nr  nft 

Analysis  of ^J*J>  ^|^ 

By  countries 116 

For  1911 115 

For  representative  years 116 

Manufacturing  process 111>  112, 113 

Merino -  - • m 

Mohair,  alpaca,  and  other  hair  yarns;  commerce  for  leading  countries 121 

Priee  quotations 117110  |lf 

Production ■^^'^' Ho  1  oi 

Production  in  United  Kingdom  and  France.. 11°,  120 

Range  in  number  of  spindles  in  mills  making  yarn  exclusively 619 

RenTnants 624 

Yield  of  cloth  from 625 

Yield  of,  from  tops 623 

Woolen  and  worsted,  compensatory  duty  on 624 

Wersted,  American  conversion  cost  for - 648 

Z. 
Zackel  wool 43, 421, 423, 425, 435 

o 


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